The Bucharest University of Economic StudiesFaculty of Business and Tourism

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Cruelty-Free Cosmetics

Stan Cristina-Aida Group 316

Content Introduction.......page 3 The Issue: Animal Tests ...page 4 Cosmetics Directive.....page 5 Alternatives..page 5 The market in Romania: Main Brands...page 6 Specific Legislation( Eu-level and National-level )...page 9 Conclusion..page 14 Bibliography...page 15

Introduction

Traditionally, animal testing has been used in order to demonstrate which cosmetics are effective and especially safe. This may not seem to have a wicked character, but what if I told you that thousands of mice, rabbits, guinea pigs and rats are being injected, compelled to take food by means of a tube inserted into the throat, gassed and killed every single year? There are no restrictions in 80% of the world. Animals are used in ruthless and needless cosmetics tests, even though there are many other solutions to produce secure cosmetics. As a consumer, I am aware that I am able to influence this issue by what type of product I buy and I am truly delighted to sustain the use of the Leaping Bunny certified products ( see fig.1) through this project. Figure 1: the Leaping Bunny symbol

Source: http://leapingbunny.org/images/lbLogo-facebook.jpg Nowadays, due to the aid of the Leaping Bunny Programme, consumers can easily recognize the cruelty-free labeling and purchase cosmetics manufactured without utilizing animal testing. Make a humane choice, make a positive change!

The Issue: Animal TestsFigure 2 http://upload.wikimedia.org/wikipedia/commons/e/e3/Types_of_vertebrates_v2en.png

Some of the well-known tests used in manufacturing cosmetics and many ingredients are:Most people [in industry] do not even know that in vitro methods exist. Maybe they have heard something aboutsome movements that want to eliminate laboratory animals, but they relegate them to the sphere of non-global stuff and fanaticism. They cannot imagine that in vitro methods may have better scientific validity than in vivo tests.

Dr Costanza Rovida, Centre for Alternatives to Animal Testing Europe, University of Konstanz, Germany

1. Repeated dose toxicity: This one estimates officially if long-term usage of a certain substance is poisonous or not. Rabbits and mice are constrained to inhale and sometimes eat a cosmetics ingredient every single day between one and three months. After this cruel process, they are killed.2. Reproductive toxicity: This is a test which evaluates how a certain substance may influence the fertility, the sexual behaviour and the birth of the individual. Throughout their pregnancy, rats and rabbits are force-fed one of the cosmetics component. This particular process caused deaths to hundreds of thousands of animals and also to their unborn babies.3. Toxicokinetics: Toxicokinetics is a test that determines how the body reacts when a substance is absorbed, dispersed, metabolized and then expelled from the blood or tissues. Again, rats, mice, rabbits are forced to consume a specific cosmetics ingredient and immediately after this, they are killed. Then, their organs are examined in order to assess how the component used was distributed.4. Skin sensitization: This test must determine if a substance is going to cause skin inflammation or itching sensation each time the substance is used. Guinea pigs fur is shaved and then the substance is rubbed onto their skin in order to observe some sort of allergic reaction. The Guinea pigs are then killed.5. Carcinogenicity:Necessitates a lot of time, as its purpose is to expose a carcinogen in the body. In this sense, mice are compelled to assimilate a cosmetics ingredient for about two years in order to detect if the animals get sick and have cancer As it is expected, the mice are then killed.The Issue: Cosmetics DirectiveThe reduction of animal testing is a political goal and should not be dominated by scientists who often cannot accept any uncertainty, not realising that by that behaviour, they are only preventing change.Dr. Cornelis Johannes (Kees) van Leeuwen, former Director of the Institute for Health and Consumer Protection, European Commission, The Netherlands

InEurope,the European UnionCosmeticsDirectiverepresentsthe solutionagainstthe problemandlays down rulesconcerning thelabelling, packingand contentsof cosmetic products.Thisdirectiveputs an end tothe use of animalsfor testing cosmetics,the secondmainby imposingbans: -It prohibits thetestingof finished cosmetic products(applicablefrom September2004) andingredients(applicablefrom March2009)on animals.Since March2009, it also prohibitedthe marketingof cosmeticproductsin the EU, andingredientsthat have been testedon animals,irrespective ofthe origin of theseproducts.

The Issue: Alternatives

Until now, about 500 cosmetics companies have declared themselves as being enemies to animal testing and, it may seem surprisingly, but they are still manufacturing secure and marvelous beauty products. They succeed in achieving such good products simply by combining already existing cosmetics raw components which have been proven to be secure for people until now. These companies realized that they do not need to use new ingredients, because these chemicals would also be tested on animals, so they tried to reinvent the definition of cosmetics through a great mixture of chemicals that would not harm any soul. The latest techniques which science offers nowadays present us some professional non-animal tests that are able to ensure the safety of cosmetics. They are some alternative tests which are not only cheaper, but also very reliable, giving results that are more suitable to humans. Until now, there are 40 tests that are validated for usage. A few good examples would be: a skin test, called EpiDerm which uses human reconstructed skin, a test for eye corrosion named Bovine Cornea Opacity and Permeability or a test for sunlight-induced phototoxicity, called 3T3 NRU.

The market in Romania: Main BrandsFigure 3 http://www.thegreenkiss.com/v/vspfiles/photos/100PP-Natural-Primer-2.jpg

100% Pureproductsare truly100% pure,withoutsynthetic chemicals,artificial flavours and colours,harddetergentsor otherharmful toxins . The ingredients used do not requiretesting,as the onlyanimal component usedishoney,without involvinganyactofcruelty to animals. Definitely suitable for vegans. In addition to the fact that they are cruelty-free, Balm Balm organiccosmeticsareapproved by theSoilAssociation. They areentirely organic and based on a simple formula created with bees wax and essential oils. The companywon in 2007 an important awardcalled TheNatural & OrganicProducts, sponsoredby theSoilAssociation itself,the most prestigiousinstitutionof theUnited Kingdomorganiccertification.In the sameyear italso receivedThe Silver Best Skincare Award fromthe magazine "Mommy and Baby".In 2008,it was amongthe finalists ofTheNaturalandOrganicAwardsin the categoryChildrenand earnedNatural HealthBeautyAwards.Figure 4 http://1.bp.blogspot.com/-00asjx5SJeI/Uuiavgqr3LI/AAAAAAAAFaM/EB5U4v27MD8/s1600/balmbalm.png

BareFaced Beauty is a make-up brand that produces the purest beauty cosmetics which are, luckily, available anywhere in the world. BarefacedBeautymakeupproductsare natural,pure,with noparabensandbismuth chloride, whichisa mineral but one thatcan causeirritations.They alsodo notcontaintalc, fragrance anddyes.BarefacedBeautyproductsare definitely suitablefor vegetarians and vegans. This British companywas awardedby the most prestigiousmagazinesforits mineral makeupproducts, beingdeclaredwinnerinNatural HealthMagazineAwards 2009and 2010. Bellapierre Cosmetics is one of the companies that delivers mineral make-up, having the worlds fastest development. David Oren, the company founder, is an important player in the industry of producing cosmetics. With over 13 years of experience in this field, David Oren believes passionately in quality and purity, not only in business development. BellapierreCosmetics productsare uniquebecause the companyproducesand developsits own products,which givesthe power torespondquicklyto markettrends. Also,the diversity ofthe colours andthe factthat theentire lineis basedon natural ingredients,favors theuse of theBellapierreproducts. Figure 5 Original, Stan Cristina Aida, Bellapierre, 2015

Figure 6: Original, Stan Cristina Aida, Bellapierre Cosmetics, 2015

Derbe manufactures high quality and innovative personal care products which are all made from organic ingredients. Most of the cosmetics have great defensive, hydrating and skin revitalization effects, as they fight wrinkles. LERBOLARIO is a brand which can be proud of selling products according to authentic herbalist traditions. The most popular beauty line created by the Fitocosmetic Lerbolario laboratory is called Folta Chioma and it has a special formula that takes care of female and male hair. Folta Chioma has a protective effect improving the hair strength and it also prevents the premature loss of it. Marble Hill retails a wide variety of hypoallergenic skincare products available both in the EU and the USA. This brand uses no colours, no fragrances or chemical additives. Marks & Spencer is one of the United Kingdoms most famous retailers. This brand is devoted to provide you a variety of cosmetics, all of these personal care products being certified cruelty-free and carrying the Leaping Bunny mark. It fulfills all expectations when it comes to Hair Care, Lip Care, Hypo-Allergenic Skin Care. Moa is another brand which is proud to be on the list with retailers that manufacture an all-natural range of cosmetics. It uses ingredients such as beeswax, coconut, sweet almond and yarrow, being vegetarian and completely against animal testing. Another cruelty-free brand would be Montagne Jeunesse, which offers both men and women a wide range of vegetarian hair and face products such as masks, lip balms and moisturisers. Motherlove Herbal Company appeared in1990, beingthe firstbrand which manufactures productsintended exclusively forpregnant womenandmotherswho are breastfeeding.The productsare made from medicinal plants andsome of the finest oils. The products do notcontain synthetic fragrances, syntheticadditives, preservatives, dyesandchemicals or genetically modifiedcomponents. Nourish (Advanced Cellular Perfection) is a brand formed by Dr Pauline Hili, a very famous specialist in organic skincare. It uses only vegan raw materials and their sources are always written in the label. Another brand which cand be found here, in Romania, is called Rejuvi and it also offer vegan products. Its is popular for the Rejuville Anti-Aging hair care line. Suma must certainly be mentioned in this list, as it is a brand which promotes a healthy and responsible lifestyle through ethically-sourced and organic products. The Body Shop is internationally-recognised as retailing a wide range of cruelty-free cosmetics since 1976. In 2006, The Body Shop was bought by Loreal which is not approved under the Humane Cosmetics Standard. ZAO Essence of Nature is famous for the wide range of mineral cosmetics that it produces. These cosmetics are always made with organic and fairly traded components. From lipsticks and foundations to mascara and eye shadows, all of these products are packaged in eco-friendly bamboo packaging. Figure 7 http://www.earth911.com/wp-content/uploads/2014/12/zao-mineral-silk-300x300.jpg

Specific Legislation Eu-level and National-levelSomeprovisions of theEURegulation1223/2009 oncosmetic products:Directive 76/768/EEC oncosmetic products, law No.178/2000 concerningcosmetic productsand OMS 1448/2005withsubsequent modifications-ReplacedstartingJuly 11,2013:-EU regulation1223/2009 oncosmetic products- europeanactapplicableas suchinall EU MemberStates-withsubsequent modifications; -EU regulation655/2013forcommon criteriaconcerningstatementsrelatingto cosmetic products; -Commission decisionon guidelinestoannex I to Regulation1223/2009 oncosmetic products; -HG.../2014for the implementation ofRegulation1223/2009;"Article2-Definitions,subparagraphs(1) "cosmetic product"meansany substanceormixtureintended forplacingin contact with theexternalpartsof the human body(epidermis,hair,nailareas, lipsandexternal genitalorgans)orwiththe teethandthe mucous membranesof the oralcavity,with thesole purposeor primarytoclean them,perfumingthem,changingtheir appearance,toprotect them,to keep themin good conditionorto correctbody odours.""Article3-safety A cosmetic productputon the marketmust besafe forhuman healthwhen used undernormalorreasonablyforeseeableuse, bearing in mind,in particular,ofthe following items:(a)presentation,includingrespecting theDirective 87/357/EEC;(b)labelling;(c)instructions for useand disposal;(d)anyother indicationor informationprovided bythe responsible personas defined in article4. The provisions concerningthewarningsdo not exemptthe personsreferred to in articles 2 and 4ofotherobligationsprovided for in thisregulation."Responsible Person -The detailsare presented in thecontext ofArticle4; -The obligationsof the responsible personreferred toinArticle5; Distributor'sObligations -Presented inArticle6; Identificationwithin thesupply chain:The detailsare presented in theframework of article7: "At the requestof a competent authority: persons responsible foridentifyingdistributorswhoprovidethe cosmetic product; identify theDistributorthe Distributororthe person in chargeofthecosmetic productpurchased,andthedistributorswho suppliedthe cosmetic product.This obligationmust beobservedfor a period ofthree years from thedate on which thecosmetic productwasmade available tothe vendor."NotificationArticle13"(1)before insertingthe cosmetic producton the market,the person responsibleshall send the Commission,by electronic means,the following information:..."Filewithinformation about theproduct-Article11 -Any cosmetic producthasa file; -Dossiercontainsinformation and datarequiredby the regulation,whichareupdated whenevernecessary; -Fileare keptfor 10 yearsfrom thedate on which thelast lotofproducthas beenput on the market; -The personresponsible forensuring thatthe competent authorityof the Member Statein whichit iskeptwithproduct infofolderhaseasy accessto this folder,in electronic formatorinanother format,athis addressas indicatedon the label;Labeling-article19Cosmetic productsare made availableon the marketonlyif thecontainer and packaging ofcosmetic productsaremarkedwith the following informationvisible,easily legibleandindelible:a.-name/business name and addressof the person responsible-abbreviatedifthe abbreviationmakes it possible toidentify the personconcerned andof the address.Whenseveral addressesare indicated, it ishighlightedthat addressat which the person who is responsibleto providepromptinformation about productstays.For those cosmetic products wich are imported, it must be specifiedthe country of origin.b-ratedcontentat the timeof packing(weight/volume),with the exception of the packages containingless than fivegrams orfivemillilitres,/of the packages containingproductsfor singleuse. For theprepackagedproductssoldusuallyas a numberof articlesfor which theindication ofweightor volumeis not significant, it is notnecessary to specify thecontent,provided thatthe number of articlesmust appear on the package.It is notnecessary to specifythis informationin case the number ofarticles iseasilydeterminedfrom the outsideorifthe productisnormally soldsingly. c.-the date until whichthe cosmetic product,stored underappropriate conditions,fulfilsits initialfunctionandin particularremains in conformitywith article3("minimum durabilitydate"); The dateitself, or the details ofthe place where itisinscribedon the packagingare precededby the symbolappearingin section 3 ofannex VIIandthe words:"to be usedpreferablybefore". Minimumdurabilitydateshall be clearly expressedandshall consist of eithermonth and yearor the day,month and yearin that order.Where necessary,this information shall be supplemented byan indication ofthe conditionswhich must be satisfiedin order to ensurethe minimumdurability. Indication of the dateof minimumdurabilityshall not bemandatory for cosmetic productswithashelf lifeof30 months.Such productsareaccompanied by the indication of theduration of useafteropeningfor which the productis safeandcan be usedwithout havingany harmful effects onthe consumer.This informationshall be indicated,except in casesin whichthe concept ofdurabilityafteropening isirrelevant by the symbolappearing in paragraph2of annex VIIfollowed theduration of use(in monthsand/oryears).d.-Special precautionsto be observedinthe use,at leastthose referred to inannexes III to VI, andany informationpertaining tospecialprecautionsregardingcosmetic products for professional use.e-batch numberofthe product, orthe reference numberidentifying thecosmetic product.When,for practicalreasons,this is impossiblebecause of the cosmetic products small size,such informationneed to appearonlyon the packaging.f-functionof the cosmetic product,whereitis clear from thepresentation.g.-a list of ingredients(INCI).Thisinformationmaybedisclosedonlyon the packaging.The listisprecededby the word"ingredients".References toperfume,aromaticcompositionsand their raw materialsshall be made bythe terms"scent"/"aroma", and thepresence of substances shall beincludedinthe list of ingredientsin addition to the terms"perfume"or"aroma".Nanomaterials havethe word"nano"inparenthesis after thename of the ingredient. When, for practical reasons,it is impossible tospecify theinformationon the label referred toin subparagraphs(d)(specialprecautions)and (g)(ingredients),the following shall apply: The informationmust be stated onan enclosed leaflet,label,tapeorcard and it also must be included orattached tothe product;A reference is made tothis informationeitherthrough anabbreviated form,or the symbolOpenBookandhandreferred to in point1of annex VII,and must appearon the containeroron the containerforthe information referred toin point (d),andon the packagingforthe information referred toin paragraph(1) (g). The language in whichinformationis givenabove, exceptthose relating to ingredients,isdetermined by thelegislation of theMember State in whichthe product ismade available tothe end user.

Art.23 Communication ofseriousundesirable effectsArt.23.(1) in the eventofseriousunwantedeffects,the person responsibleshall notify, without delay, the competent authorityof the Member State in which the unwantedeffect was produced thefollowing information:..." -Allseriousundesired effectsthat youknoworreasonably assumethatyou shouldbe aware of;the name ofthecosmetic product,enablingitsconcrete;the corrective measures undertakenby themas appropriate. Whenthe person responsible forreportingseriousunwanted effects talked to the competent authorityof the Member Statewherethe effecthas occurred,heshall immediately forwardthe information referred toin paragraph 1 to the competent authorities ofthe other Member States.Whenend usersorstaffhealthreportsseriousunwanted effectsto the competent authorityof the Member Statewherethe effecthas occurred,itshall immediately forwardthe informationoncosmetic productthe competent authoritiesoftheother Member States andthe person responsible.-CompetentAuthorities(AC)may usethe information referred toin Art.23for the purpose ofmarket supervision,marketanalysis,for evaluation andfor informingthe consumer inthe context of articles25, 26 and27. Definitions-featured in theArticle.2: -"adverseeffect" meansan adverse reactionto healthattributable tonormalor reasonableforeseeableuseof acosmetic product; -"seriousadverseeffect"-anundesirableeffectthat producesafunctionaldisability,temporary or permanentdisability,hospitalisation,congenital anomalies,a vital immediate riskor death;Note:Sourcesof information for thepreparationof this legislation:655/2013Regulationlaying downcommon criteriaforthe justificationof statementsused in connectionwith cosmetics,guidingMaterialprepared by theEuropean CommissionforRegulation655/2013, the recommendationconcerningthe statementsconcerning theabsence of animal testing,theRecommendationconcerning the labellingandthe efficacy of sunscreenproducts, materialsand presentationsdeveloped byCosmeticsEurope-Thestaffassociation (www.cosmeticseurope.eu)

Aspects ofEURegulation655/2013establishingcommon criteriaforthe justification of statementsused in connectionwithcosmetics(1)Disclaimersaretexts,trademarks,pictures andfigurativeor othersignswhichconvey,explicitlyor implicitly,the characteristics orfunctionsby means ofthe labelling,placingon the market andtheadvertising ofcosmetics. Statementsconcerning productsaremarketing toolsthatare essential -to helpconsumers/usersto choosea product, -encouragecompetition, -promotesinnovation.Declarationsrelatingto cosmetic productsare subject toamultiplesetof rules thatcan be appliedat the same time. InEU, statementsrelating tocosmeticsmay becontrolled by thevariousnational authorities,includingnon-governmental organizations,on the basis oftheir codes of practice-in Romania, RAC -RomanianAdvertisingCouncil (www.rac.ro). Rules applicable tostatementsrelating tocosmeticwatch2objectives: -protection ofconsumers (againstdeceptiveadvertising); -fair competition;The cosmeticslegislation, namely the"lexspecialis"forstatementsrelated to the featuresand functionsof cosmetic productsArt.amendArticle20.6(3)of the directive,buttheprincipleremains the same:Article 20(1):"in the labelling,making availableon the marketandinadvertising of cosmetic productsare not used texts, names, trade marks, picturesand figurative or other signssuggestingthatthese products have characteristicsorfunctions thatdo notin fact possess."Article 11(2)(d):productFolder(PIF)must include"evidence ofthe effectof the cosmetic product,wherethisisjustified by thenature oreffect of thecosmetic product;"Art.20(2)".. After consultingwiththe relevantauthoritiesCCSC,the Commission shall adopta list ofcommon criteriafor thestatements,which can be usedin the caseof cosmetic products,inaccordancewiththe regulatory procedurewithscrutinyreferred to inarticle 32 (3) of this regulation,taking into accountthe provisions of Directive2005/29/EC.6 criteria which apply to the product qualified as being cosmeticLegalcompliance- Conformitate Veracity- Veridicitate The supporting evidence- Elemente probatorii Honesty- Onestitate Equity- Echitate Choosingknowledgeably- Alegere in cunostinta de cauza

Conclusion What we certainly know is that the human bodyreactsextremely different thananimals . Due to the factthat animalsare stressed outduringthese tests, the resultsmay vary andcan be interpretedwithhigh difficulty. In addition to this, treatments according to such tests are rarely valid forpeople and as a consequence, not onlythe animal's life,but alsomoneyand timearesquandered. Animal tests areextremely painfuland cause severe injury to rabbits,Guineapigs and mice.All testsare donewithout anesthesia and withoutfurthermedical care. These unlucky animalsarekept interribleconditionsinsmallironcages,deprived ofnatural light. Nolip balmmoisturizer,nomascara andno otherproduct does not justifysuchcruelty acts againstanimals.I understand the issue and this is whyI will notbuyanyproduct whichdoes not guarantee the fact that they are cruelty-free. The person who choses tobuysuch a product,indirectly supports animal experiments because there are alternatives. We can make a difference!Figure 8 http://i650.photobucket.com/albums/uu224/lizzard_012/anit98.jpg

Figure 9 http://www.animal-rights-action.com/images/animal-experimentation-rabbit-draize-eye-irritacy-tests.jpg

Figure 10 http://www.cosmeticanimaltestingpictures.com/images/thumbnails/primate_testing_540x.jpg

Bibliography

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