Unexpected Take-Out Options | Cool Californian Wines | 14 Ways With Cheesecake

C A L G A R Y F O O D amp D R I N K R E C I P E S V O L U M E 4 N O 1 0 A P R I L 2 0 1 6

HONING YOUR KNIFE SKILLS

TO THE POINT

DIY HOMEMADE

NUTELLA

4 ALBERTA-MADE CITRUS BEERS

TO TRY

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3

Features22 En garde

A beginnerrsquos guide to knives and knife-related implements and the three mainstay knives that every layman cook should have in the kitchen by Anna Brooks

Departments

VOLUME 4 ISSUE 10 APRIL 2016

10 35

16

16 Going to MarketFrom Primal Grounds Cappuccino Bar ndash to Primal Soup Co ndash to both Primal Soup and Primal Grounds pioneer Margaret Nemeth has found her homeby Elizabeth Chorney-Booth

25 Times Are A ChangingWith the current economic downturn many bricks and mortar restaurants are getting creative with ways to fully utilise their kitchens by Linda Garson

34 The Iconic Old Fashionedhellip that has stood the test of time by Brice Peressini

20 California CoolThe new frontiers by Peter Vetsch

On the Cover

Many thanks to Ingrid Kuenzel for unending patience ideas and photography and to Chef Daniel

Pizarro and Avec Bistro for the mise the knife and the knife skills

12

42 Open That BottleKaren Kho of Teatro Group by Linda Garson

6 Salutes and Shout Outs

8 Book Review

10 Off The Menu ndash Unarsquos Kale Caesar Salad

12 Chefsrsquo Tips ndash and Tricks

18 Soup Kitchen

28 Step-By-Step Nutella

32 Spice It Up Cheesecake

38 Odds and Ends Brothhellip by saving those scraps by Dan Clapson

30 Citrus Beer FriendsFour Alberta-made citrusy beers by David Nuttall

40 Making the Casefor Argentine winesby Tom Firth

35 Shoulder Season WinesWines for cool weather by Jaclyn Adomeit

bra

zili

an

barb

ecu

e

authenticThe way it should beauthenticThe way it should beExperience the bold flavours and original taste of Churrasco an authentic barbecue style made famous by Gauchos - the cowboys of South America

100 5920 Macleod Trail SWphone4034549119

C A LGA RY

C A NMOR E 629 Main Streetphone4036789886

w w w b r a z i l i a n b b q c a

Letter From The Editor

Welcome to Aprilrsquos Culinaire magazine the last issue before our 4th birthday

Itrsquos definitely an interesting time for the food and beverage scene in Calgary Increasing rents property taxes rising produce prices and potential wage increases are all taking their toll on our

vibrant restaurant scene Rumours abound of restaurant closures in the industry but also new innovative ideas for keeping kitchens fully employed ndash the clever money is on more take-outs from established restaurants and in particular from those you expect least

Nary a new restaurant has opened in the last year without some form of take-out window or program and wersquore looking at the latest innovative offerings to see how you can benefit from these ideas Yoursquoll see in our round up of new openings in our Shout-Outs how this is a recurring theme

April brings us plenty to celebrate ndash of course we have our 2nd annual Treasure Hunt to look forward to on April 9th This was one of our biggest events last year - we were trending on Twitter - and we canrsquot wait for the even bigger and better-organised Treasure Hunt this year I hope yoursquove already registered as we have a

finite cut-off for participants and like last year everyone goes home a multiple winner having experienced one of the most memorable days in Calgary Take no prisoners

Our other big news is that with this issue of Culinaire we are expanding into Canmore and Banff and are readily available in both towns Wersquore pleased and proud to sponsor Canmorersquos Uncorked Wine Festival on April 16 itrsquos a sell-out event so I hope you already have your tickets

Itrsquos also International Malbec Day on April 17 and the Californian Wine Fair on April 26th Canadarsquos largest wine tasting tour of Californian Wines and we have you covered for both in this monthrsquos issue But our REALLY big news will be revealed next month ndash watch this space for more details

CheersLinda Garson Editor-in-Chief

All Trademarks presented in this magazine are owned by the registered owner All advertisements appearing in this magazine are the sole responsibility of the person business or corporation advertising their product or service For more information on Culinaire Magazinersquos Privacy Policy and Intention of Use please see our website at wwwculinairemagazineca All content photographs and articles appearing in this magazine are represented by the contributor as original content and the contributor will hold Culinaire Magazine harmless against any and all damages that may arise from their contribution All public correspondence which may include but is not limited to letters e-mail images and contact information received by Culinaire Magazine becomes the property of Culinaire Magazine and is subject to publication Culinaire Magazine may not be held responsible for the safety or return of any unsolicited manuscripts photographs and other materials Reproduction of this publication in whole or in part without written consent from Culinaire Magazine is strictly prohibited

Editor-in-ChiefPublisher

Commercial Director

Edmonton Sales Director

Contributing Food Editor

Contributing Drinks Editor

Digital Media Editor

Contributing Photographer

Design

Contributors

Linda Garsonlindaculinairemagazineca

Keiron Gallagher403-975-7177salesculinairemagazineca Lisa Wolansky587-338-8780 lisaculinairemagazineca

Dan Clapsondanculinairemagazineca

Tom Firth tomculinairemagazineca Anna Brooks webculinairemagazineca

Ingrid Kuenzel

Emily Vance

Jaclyn AdomeitAnna BrooksElizabeth Chorney-BoothNatalie FindlayRenee KohlmanRobyn MacleanKaren MillerDiana NgDavid NuttallBrice PeressiniPeter Vetsch

To read about our talented team of contributors please visit us online at

culinairemagazineca

infoculinairemagazinecawwwfacebookcomCulinaireMagazine

Twitter culinairemagInstagram culinairemag

For subscriptions competitions and to read Culinaire online

culinairemagazineca

Our Contributors

lt Peter VetschPeter is a local lawyer by day and wine writer by night pursuing his vinous passion by maintaining his own wine blog at popandpourca He has earned his formal wine accreditation through

the Wine amp Spirits Education Trust (WSET) where he obtained both Intermediate and Advanced Certificates with Distinction and he is always on the lookout for the next way to learn about and experience wine (and the next good bottle to try)

lt Anna BrooksAnna Brooks is Culinairersquos new digital media editor A Mount Royal journalism graduate stories have pulled her overseas to pursue international work in India Africa and

Thailand She has been published locally in Metro FreeFall and BeatRoute magazine She likes magical realism wine and English cocker spaniels (well just one English cocker spaniel) Follow her on Twitter Anna_Brooksie

lt Brice Peressini Brice Peressini has turned his passion for food drink and travel into his profession When not writing about the culinary arts he can be found mixing drinks at Chefbar or

visiting one of his favourite bars or restaurants His favourite cocktails are Old Fashioneds Manhattans and Negronis His favourite pastime is converting people to whisk(e)y

C A L G A R Y F O O D amp D R I N K R E C I P E S

Contact us atCulinaire Magazine

1203 804 -3rd Avenue SWCalgary AB T2P 0G9

403-870-9802

6

Salutes

and Shout Outs

Club for Carnivores

A subscription to the Carnivore Club will see a box of 4-6 cured or smoked meats with a combined weight of 1frac12-2 pounds arrive on your doorstep each month The club finds sources and features Canadian artisans who make premium charcuterie from ethically raised animals Some items will be traditional alongside more unusual items ndash think water buffalo and cranberry salami Each box comes with a handbook that describes that monthrsquos featured artisan explains what each meat is and sometimes includes pairing suggestions $50 a month includes the price of shipping and supports local family farms ndash and itrsquos all Fair Trade too they make sure the artisans are paid fairly for their quality meats We approve Check out carnivoreclubco

Hats off to Village Brewery

hellip who have teamed up with nano brewery The Dandy Brewing Company to launch the first annual Village Friend a 10 ABV Baltic Porter with deep and rich flavours of molasses and liquorice The collaboration will see part of the proceeds from this ale go to buying new pumps for Dandy a huge upgrade for the brewers ldquoThings are going well for us and we want to do our part to support Calgaryrsquos rising breweriesrdquo says Village

Breweryrsquos Jim Button We just love the concept ndash itrsquos soooo Calgary

Congrats to SAIT Team

hellip for their Meyer Lemon Mousse winner of the 2016 Pastry Chef Showcase Peoplersquos Choice Award for favourite plated dessert and to Bishwa Pati the Calgary Petroleum Club and the Delta Lodge at Kananaskis who won the Chocolate Showpiece Peoplersquos Choice Awards The event was an all-

round success raising funds for LrsquoArche Calgary and scholarships for SAIT Baking and Pastry Arts students Great job all

The Unicorn returns

After closing 11 months ago to make way for Quebec fashion retailer Simons The Unicorn Pub is back in business with its staff and many of its regular customers just half a block away from its original premises After nearly 36 years this Calgary icon has joined forces with Below Deck Tavern and the Libertine to become a three-storey superpub but still staying true to its cheerful friendly and value-driven lsquoeverybodyrsquo pub roots Welcome back

Cluck and Cleaver are open

This long-anticipated chicken takeout spot is finally open next to Boydrsquos on 14th Street SW in a stand-alone building with parking behind ndash and theyrsquore busy But we know why ndash sisters Nicole and Francine Gomes having been toying with the concept for 10 years ndash and

theyrsquove got it right Choose either super-crunchy Southern Fried or juicy Classic Rotisserie chicken by the piece or box and add a side of smoky chipotle lime corn and bean salad or creamy potato egg salad crunchy coleslaw and delicious baby roast potatoes that have soaked up all the juices from cooking with the chicken in the rotisserie Hand-cut fries fluffy buttermilk biscuits and gravy and homemade cookies are all on offer too ndash and all at great prices Yes itrsquos definitely the year for tasty take-outs

New Back Bar at Alloy

My how time flies ndash Alloy restaurant have occupied their beautiful BonnybrookManchester location for eight years and have just renovated the rear dining room and bar area to become The Back Bar by Alloy Now you can reserve a place at the bar or in one of the comfy booths for a casual drink before or after your meal Bar manager and mixologist Jake Hewitt is putting his spin on classic cocktails and chefowner Rogelio Herrera has created a very tasty snack menu of predictably delicious tempura shrimp tacos beef tartare nachos tender pork belly sliders crunchy nuts with togarashi and lime - and more

Cluck and Cleaver

INTRODUCING

A Farmerrsquos Wine

Every great wine tells a storyThis one starts with a farmer

10 Foot Henryrsquos back where he belongs

- on the ground floor of the Eagle Block where he spent 19 years upstairs in the Night Gallery 10 Foot Henry is the brainchild of Aja Lapointe and Steve Smee lately of Ox amp Angela and Una and a welcome addition to Victoria Park Veggies are the star here with meat as the supporting act theyrsquore serving up casual and creative lsquoNew North Americanrsquo comfort-food dishes - the way the couple eat at home Grab a friend and share a few plates of mash with goat yogurt ver jus and a fried egg - a sublime combination or nibble some mushroom and kale tempura with two dipping sauces or fresh and comforting roasted carrots and avocado with pistachio gremolata Bread is by Sidewalk Citizen and pasta is from Mercato and all desserts are made in house Wash it down with wine from the eclectic list or one of five organic and Fair Trade coffees from Calgaryrsquos original roaster ndash The Roasterie or one of six loose-leaf teas from the Naked Leaf See you there

Eagle Block

8

Book Review

Karen Miller is a lawyer by trade giving her a knack for picking apart a cookbook She has taught many styles of cooking classes and was part of the Calgary Dishing girls

Lick Your Plateby Julie Albert and Lisa GnatAppetite by Random House 2016 $32

by KAREN MILLER

The Bite Me Bite Me Too sisters are back this time thankfully with a little less gimmick Their cooking was always good and their passion for sharing always evident but it seems they have become more confident in their cooking

Lick Your Plate is a cookbook a lot of us will want on our kitchen shelf a compilation of recognizable recipes for family meals and entertaining alike The sisters have still managed to convey their effervescent style but the focus is on easy recipes anyone can do These girls are happy in the kitchen

It would be hard not to find some old favourites or a style of cuisine you want to try The recipes are not ldquoauthenticrdquo

but they work - they are quick and will satisfy your cravings Very few recipes have preparation times in excess of 15 minutes and the ingredients are easily found in our pantry They incorporate many styles from fast stir fries to slow cooker meals healthy grains a full range of vegetables dishes (yes including

Brussels sprouts and kale) and tempting desserts (try the Golden Apple Crisp with Salted Caramel Sauce on p 275)

The sisters have made an absolutely respectable version of a traditional Moroccan soup (Moroccan Chickpea amp Lemon Couscous Soup p 36) and who would not want to try their version of sticky buns (Luscious Lemon Sticky Buns p 243)

The cookbook still has a good sense of humour with catchy chapter titles and scattered quotes which will bring a smile to your face and do what they are intended to do - take the pressure off Enjoying the cooking process is what this cookbook is about making it easy and good enough to lick your plate

C u l i n a i r e rsquo s 2 n d A n n u a l T r e a s u r e H u n t i s S a t u r d a y A p r i l 9 t h

You may see yourself on television too this year mdash definitely another day to remember

culinairemag CulinaireMagazine culinairemag culinairemagazineca

Wersquore beyond excited for another amazing day of foodies in Calgary racing round the city to find out what treats await at over 30 destinations ndash the vast majority of which are new for 2016

Everyone went home a winner at our first annual Culinaire Treasure Hunt last year ndash and some were multiple winners We were completely sold out and it was so popular that we were trending on Twitter

Trivia questions about the participating restaurants markets and stores revealed the answers for where to dash off to receive your treat get your passport stamped and probably come away with a little culinary gift too

And there are fabulous prizes for the people who visit the most locations wear the best costumes have the funniest team names tweet the funniest photoshellip and lots lots more

This year is going to be an even more fun and rewarding day - we hope you and a partner have signed up as a team of two and registered to join us or signed up solo

Visit culinairemagazinecacontests follow us on Twitter culinairemag for the latest details and like us on facebook at facebookcomCulinaireMagazine to keep up with the news

DISCOVERCALIFORNIA WINES

ThIS IS A FuNDRAISER bENEFITINg CALgARy OpERA

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TuESDAy ApRIL 26 2016700 pm ndash 930 pm pALOmINO ROOm bmO CENTRE AT STAmpEDE pARk

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FESTIVAL DES VINS

WINE FAIR

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The largest tasting tour of California wines in CanadaAlso includes a silent auction of wines not available in Canada

In todayrsquos busy world you may not get a chance to pick up

every issue of Culinaire To ensure

your copy go to culinairemagazineca to have the next ten issues delivered right

to your door

Order today mdash 10 issues for $39+gst

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14 Ways to Spice Up Grilled Cheese | Beyond YYC Maui | Sunday Suppers

C A L G A R Y F O O D amp D R I N K R E C I P E S V O L U M E 4 N O 8 J A N U A R Y F E B R U A R Y 2 0 1 6

FOOD TRENDS FOR 2016

20+ AWARD-WINNING

TOP VALUE WINES

Beyond YYC Canmore amp Banff | Grab-and-Go | Absinthe The Green Fairy

C A L G A R Y F O O D amp D R I N K R E C I P E S V O L U M E 4 N O 9 M A R C H 2 0 1 6

RAISE A GLASS

TO WOMEN BEHIND THE BAR

AMAZING COCKTAILS TO MAKE AT HOME

For Foodies amp Beverage Lovers

10

A sure-fire favourite dish at Una Pizza + Wine Kale Caesar Salad is much requested It has all the elements of a perfect salad crunchy prosciutto and breadcrumbs and chewy kale leaves and egg for texture with grated cheese and a creamy plate-licking dressing to pull it all together Many thanks to Una Executive Chef Jen Pena for sharing it with us

Unarsquos Kale Caesar SaladServes 4

Salad2 Tbs (30 mL) olive oil plus more if needed4 thin slices prosciutto juliennedfrac12 cup panko breadcrumbsMaldon salt and black pepper2 bunches kale leaves only julienned1 cup grated Pecorino cheese2 hard boiled eggs peeled and halved (optional)

Caesar Dressing1 clove garlic4 anchovy fillets1 Tbs (15 mL) Dijon mustardZest and juice of 1 lemonfrac12 cup (120 mL) olive oil

1 Using a fork crush garlic and anchovies against the inside of a large bowl Add mustard lemon juice zest and olive oil and whisk until well emulsified Pour the dressing into a glass jar and set aside

2 Line a plate with paper towels Heat olive oil in a medium frying pan on high Add prosciutto and pan-fry until crispy about 5 minutes Transfer to the paper towel-lined plate and set aside

3 Reduce the heat to low and add panko crumbs to the pan adding a little oil if required Toast until golden about 2 minutes Scrape the panko into a small bowl season to taste with salt and set aside

4 Place kale in a large bowl pour in the dressing and toss well Season with salt and black pepper Transfer to a serving

bowl and top with grated Pecorino cheese toasted panko and crispy prosciutto Serve with the boiled eggs if desired

If therersquos a dish in a restaurant that yoursquod love to know how to make let us know at culinairemagazinecacontact-us and wersquoll do our very best to track it down for you

Off The Menu

culinairemagazinecaaba sponsors

Registrations are arriving already With the success of last yearrsquos competition

2016 will be an even greater competition this year Visit culinairemagazinecaaba

to enter your wines beers and spirits for the 2016 Alberta Beverage Awards

Have You Entered Your Wine Beers And Spirits Yet

For more information contact competition director Tom Firth tomculinairemagazineca

Registration Deadline July 1 | Judging Takes Place July 18-19-20

12

Tricks Chefs Tipsstory by ROBYN MACLEAN photography by INGRID KUENZEL Knives

The most important tool in any kitchen without a doubt is a good knife As Iron Chef Masahari Morimoto would say ldquoa kitchen without a knife is not a kitchenrdquo

I couldnrsquot agree more

For professional cooks knives are practically an extension of their hands and probably better cared for But a quality knife is just as essential for home cooks If yoursquore even slightly inclined to cook at home at the very least you should own a classic 20 cm chefrsquos knife ndash the go-to knife for the brunt of daily kitchen tasks

But itrsquos certainly not the only knife you should have in your arsenal Slicing dicing filleting butchering and julienning become a whole lot easier when you use the right knife for the job and these three Calgary chefs share their favourite model and a recipe to help point you in the right direction

䈀甀礀 琀栀攀 琀漀瀀 栀愀氀昀 漀昀 愀渀礀 戀漀琀琀氀攀 漀昀 眀椀渀攀 戀攀琀眀攀攀渀 瀀洀ⴀ㘀瀀洀 愀渀搀 最攀琀 琀栀攀 戀漀琀琀漀洀 琀栀攀 昀甀渀 栀愀氀昀⤀ 昀漀爀 䘀刀䔀䔀

䘀刀

䔀䔀

䴀伀一䐀䄀夀 ⴀ 䘀刀䤀䐀䄀夀 瀀洀 ⴀ㘀瀀洀

瀀爀椀挀攀 戀漀琀琀氀攀猀 漀昀 眀椀渀攀㔀 戀漀琀琀氀攀猀 漀昀 戀攀攀爀㔀 栀椀最栀戀愀氀氀猀

䠀䄀䰀䘀 䘀刀䔀䔀 圀䤀一䔀

㔀 㔀 Ⰰ 㠀 䄀 瘀 攀 匀 圀 Ⰰ 䌀 愀 氀 最 愀 爀 礀 Ⰰ 䄀 䈀 吀 倀 䜀

Pacific Albacore Tuna CrudoServes 4

335 g Pacific albacore tuna 1 honey crisp or granny smith apple 4 cloves of garlic thinly sliced frac12 tsp ground espelette chili frac14 cup (60 mL) sunflower oil frac14 cup (60 mL) flax oil 1 Tbs lightly toasted flax seed 8 pickled string beans (keep some pickling liquid)4 slices of prosciutto 1 Tbs (1 mL) rice vinegar Pea shoots Good quality finishing salt like fleur de sel

1 Slice garlic as thinly as possible and combine with sunflower oil in a small saucepan Heat slowly and allow the garlic to fry until golden brown Remove from heat and add the ground espelette chili

2 Allow the oil to steep for 15-20 minutes at room temperature Once cool add flax oil

Chef Matthias Fong

3 Slice 8 pickled string beans thinly into rounds

4 Dice the apple into 1 cm cubes and add a splash of the pickled string bean liquid as well as rice vinegar add to the sliced string beans

5 Set up 4 plates Slice the tuna into frac34 cm thick slices and lay out 85 g per plate Using the finishing salt season the tuna to taste

6 Pull the prosciutto slices apart into bite-sized pieces and scatter them with the tuna slices

7 Drizzle 1 Tbs (15 mL) flax oil over each plate with a few slices of the fried garlic from the oil on each plate

8 Scatter the apple and string bean mixture over the slices of tuna being sure to spoon some of the pickling liquid from the bowl over the tuna slices Finish with pea shoot tips and toasted flax seed

Chef Matthias FongRiver Cafeacute

A good quality knife is made from high quality steel usually German or Japanese which will stay sharp for a long period of time and has the potential to last a lifetime

Owning a stainless steel knife versus one made from high carbon steel is also extremely beneficial in any kitchen Itrsquos easy for a knife to end up in the sink which can leave non-stainless varieties rusted and ruined

ldquoRegardless of style or brand itrsquos never safe to let knives go dull Dull knives lead to excessive force and can easily slip off the product yoursquore cuttingrdquo cautions Fong

ldquoTo properly care for a knife I recommend investing in some sharpening stone andor a ceramic honing rod which prolongs the life of your knife and requires less sharpening I also suggest signing up for a class to learn the art of sharpening or just take your knives directly to the folks at Knifewear and theyrsquoll gladly maintain for yourdquo

ldquoMy go-to knife is the Tojiro Flash 825-inch slicer Itrsquos short in length making it versatile for a variety of uses I use it for the majority of my prep work but itrsquos ideal for slicing and carving The narrow blade allows for paper thin slicing on delicate fish like tunardquo says Fong

ldquoI favour the Tojiro line of knives because they offer stainless Japanese steel thatrsquos easy to sharpen and repairrdquo

14

Chef Kai SalimaumlkiThe Block

Chef Salimaumlki is all about a great multipurpose knife ldquoI love the Masakage Kumo Petty 150 mm knife Itrsquos ideal for numerous tasks in the kitchen but I especially love it for chopping fine herbs Itrsquos lightweight and has a remarkably sharp edge that has chives bouncing from under it in perfect uniform circlesrdquo he explains

The Petty knife is ideal for smaller jobs such as slicing shallots cutting herbs and boning smaller proteins And because of its size itrsquos also a great alternative for those who feel uncomfortable wielding a larger heavier chefrsquos knife

ldquoI would recommend this knife for the home cook as it can replace many utility knives people seem to collect in drawers And of course most importantly I recommend proper love attention and care to ensure you keep this tool functioning for a very long timerdquo

You simply canrsquot do your best without your equipment at its best

Chef Jorel ZielkeBrasserie Kensington and Winebar

ldquoIrsquom a huge fan of my 10frac34-inch MAC chefrsquos knife This multipurpose knife is modeled after the standard French chefrsquos kniferdquo says Zielke

Sirloin Beef TartareServes 2

335 g AAA beef sirloin2 Tbs (30 mL) grainy mustard cup minced shallots Tbs minced gherkins2 Tbs cup finely chopped parsley Worcestershire sauce to tasteHot sauce to tasteCold pressed canola oil to taste 1 egg yolk in tact with all whites removedPinch of fresh grated horseradishSalt and pepper

1 Finely dice the sirloin removing any connective tissue or silver-skin Do not trim off the fat Pass over the meat several times with your knife

2 Mix in mustard shallots gherkins parsley Worcestershire hot sauce oil and salt and pepper

3 Note All garnish measurements are suggestions as tartares vary to personal taste Add enough oil to moisten dish but be careful not to oversaturate

4 Top tartare with raw egg yolk and freshly grated horseradish

5 Serve with anything you can pick it up with such as crostini crackers fresh bread fresh heirloom tomato or crisp lettuce

ldquoI canrsquot emphasize enough the importance of respecting your tools by keeping them clean and properly functioning to avoid safety issues You simply canrsquot do your best without your equipment at its bestrdquo

ldquoA sharp knife is key when dicing raw meat like in my recipe belowrdquo he continues ldquoKeep in mind that itrsquos not firm like an onion or a stick of celery Meat shifts and moves as you prepare it so itrsquos important to slow down and take your time when preparing a dish like tartarerdquo

Chef Jorel Zielke

Chef Kai Salimaumlki

15

Robyn is a public relations professional and occasional writer with a passion for food and beverages Despite city hopping from her home in Calgary to Anchorage AK you can still find her on Twitter robynalana

Braised Brisket with Carrot Puree and Napa Cabbage Serves 4

900 ndash 1125 g brisket5 carrots peeled and sliced 12-16 baby potatoes 1 head of Napa cabbage julienned5 parsnips peeled and sliced 2 tomatoes quartered2 yellow onions quartered1 yellow onion thinly sliced6 sprigs of thyme4 sprigs of rosemary 6 whole cloves of garlic3-4 Tbs butter1 Tbs black peppercornsCanola oil4 cups (1 L) beef stock or water1 cup (240 mL) of milkHoney to tasteSalt and pepper 1 Season brisket liberally with salt and pepper (you can braise whole or cut it into smaller chunks)

2 In a large sauteacute pan heat canola oil until it has reached its smoking point Sear the meat on all sides until golden brown and caramelized

3 Remove from pan and place in a large ovenproof baking dish covering with beef stock (or water) Add peppercorns two sprigs of rosemary 4 sprigs of thyme whole garlic tomatoes and the quartered onions

4 Cover with tin foil and braise for approximately for 3-3frac12 hours at 325ordm F or until fork tender

5 Remove from the braising juices spoon off any excess fat and strain juices into a saucepot reduce on a medium heat until a nice thick sauce has formed

6 For carrot puree add two tablespoons of butter in a heavy bottomed saucepan and sauteacute sliced onion and diced carrots together over medium heat Yoursquore not looking to brown the vegetables but rather simmer in the butter

7 After 10 minutes cover the mixture with milk add 2 sprigs of thyme and season with salt Simmer until soft and tender

8 Strain the carrots and reserve the milk throw out the thyme sprigs Place the carrots and onions in a blender and slowly add the milk until a nice puree is achieved check seasoning and thickness and adjust if necessary Set aside 9 Sauteacute julienned cabbage in a tablespoon of butter season with salt and add 2 tablespoons of water Reduce heat and cook for 5 minutes stirring frequently

ldquoI recommend proper love attention and care to ensure you keep this tool functioning for a

very long timerdquo

10 Toss sliced carrots and parsnips with honey chopped rosemary and thyme season with salt and pepper and roast in the oven for an hour at 325ordm F or until tender 11 Boil the baby potatoes in heavily salted water until fork tender

12 To serve set up 4 plates and spoon carrot puree on the bottom of the plate in a circle Arrange potatoes carrots and parsnips around the plate place Napa cabbage in the middle and place brisket on top Spoon the reduced braising liquid over the meat

16

As Nemeth chats with customers other vendors and friends who stop by her enthusiastic greetings and joyous laughter are hard to ignore mdash this is a woman who clearly likes people In fact she loves them Warm hearty and full of surprises the words used to describe Nemethrsquos personality can just as easily be used to describe her soup

The Primal Soup Co is a fairly new entity mdash the frozen containers of soup with flavours like Mango Butternut Squash Spinach Artichoke and Feta and Thai Coconut Chicken first showed up at the Market on MacLeod (then the

Going To MarketPrimal Soup Company Finds Its Homeby ELIZABETH CHORNEY-BOOTH photography by INGRID KUENZEL

If you happen to spy Margaret Nemeth at one of her Primal Soup Company booths at the Crossroads Market or the Market on MacLeod yoursquoll immediately see that the energetic atmosphere of a Farmersrsquo Market suits her

Kingsland Farmersrsquo Market) in 2011 mdash but Nemeth is not new to the food and beverage game

Long-time Calgarians may recognize the Primal name and the taste of Nemethrsquos homemade soups from the now defunct Primal Grounds Cappuccino Bar and Eatery in Killarney which Nemeth owned and ran from 1996 through to 2010

Nemeth opened that business after a career in oil and gas and the stand-alone cafeacute was a solid success for her Not only did it serve up great coffee Nemeth quickly made a name for herself with her homemade soup creations All homemade and gluten-free (due to Nemethrsquos own dietary restrictions) Primal Grounds was catering to people with gluten intolerances long before it became fashionable

ldquoWe were pioneers and it was so much funrdquo Nemeth says ldquoThere were lots of ups and downs but it was a good liferdquo

ldquoWhen yoursquore in a market you have to give people reasons to stoprdquo

Margaret Nemeth

17

Nemeth sold the cafeacute when a real estate developer made her an offer she couldnrsquot refuse but she still felt the urge to be around people and feed them So she set up shop in the markets - first the Market on MacLeod and then in January of 2015 she opened a stall in the rebranded Crossroads Market

Elizabeth Chorney-Booth is a Calgary-based writer and co-founderco-editor of RollingSpooncom and Wapawekkacom She enjoys exploring the connection between music and food through interviews with musicians and chefs

Primal Soup also sells lunch items like gourmet macaroni and cheese sandwiches and homemade pies and pastries so that market wanderers can stop by the stall and grab a full lunch while perusing the soup cooler for something to take home for a future meal

ldquoWhen yoursquore in a market you have to give people reasons to stoprdquo Nemeth says ldquoSo we offer things to go with the soup which also gives them ideas for what they can do at home Or sometimes theyrsquoll come for a sandwich and then theyrsquoll look at the soups You have to give people reasons to be in this spacerdquo

ldquoWe were pioneers and it was so much funrdquo

Whatever Nemeth is doing it seems to be working Between the two farmersrsquo markets and specialty retailers like the Market on 17th Sunnyside Market and SPUD delivery boxes Primal Soup Co sells over 1000 containers of soup every week Nemeth develops the recipes herself but has hired a full-time chef to keep up with the demand Personality and strategic stall locations in busy farmersrsquo markets alone isnrsquot enough to move that kind of volume of soup mdash while Nemeth has made smart business decisions over the course of Primalrsquos various incarnations the key to her success really lies in the product itself Everything is made from scratch without the aid of pre-bought soup bases and Nemeth uses seasonal ingredients (only 20 to 30 of her 50 soup varieties are ever available at any given time) supporting her neighbours at the markets when possible Her meat stocks are built from organic chicken bones Wintersrsquo turkey carcasses and duck bones from fellow market vendor Green Eggs and Ham to build a rich and delicious broth ldquoI layer my soupsrdquo Nemeth says ldquoI donrsquot just throw everything in the pot together And there has to be a twist in every one There has to be something

that you donrsquot expect mdash a surprise in every boxrdquo

To bring things full circle Nemeth has a new venture that just opened kitty corner to her Primal Soup stall in the Crossroads Market a beautiful and shiny new Primal Grounds coffee location With a long counter for people to sit at for as long as they like (Nemeth jokes that itrsquos the perfect place for bored spouses to sit while their partners shop the market) itrsquos an updated nod to what got Primal Soup started in the first place

And itrsquos also a testament to Nemethrsquos dedication to market life mdash the lack of control she has over her own hours and some other aspects arenrsquot perfect but the busyness the proximity to like-minded vendors and most of all the people she gets to interact with on a constant basis has put Nemeth exactly where she belongs ldquoYoursquore only as strong as the market is collectivelyrdquo she says ldquoItrsquos different than being a restaurant but I have to say itrsquos the funnest thing Irsquove ever donerdquo

ldquoThere has to be something that you donrsquot

expect mdash a surprise in every boxrdquo

18

Soup Kitchenstory and photography by DAN CLAPSON

The fresh hang-up-your-winter-jacket feeling is finally in the air ndash and that my friends is a wonderful thing Gone are the days where wersquove looked forward to spooning into a big bowl of creamy soup or sitting down to some chicken noodle soup to help shake off the winter sniffles These days Irsquom more concerned with light and bright flavours and less calorie-ridden meals

so I wonrsquot look completely undesirable in a swimsuit come June

Here are two great recipes that just happen to be vegan but are bursting with flavour

Serves 5 Total cook time 35 minutes

6 cups (15 L) vegetable broth1 cup (240 mL) white wine1 cup (240 mL) water2 Tbs (30 mL) tomato paste2 cups dry green lentils1 red onion halved and thinly sliced1 small fennel bulb halved and thinly sliced2 tsp (10 mL) maple syrup1 tsp dried oreganofrac12 tsp ground turmericfrac12 tsp chili flakesfrac12 tsp ground cinnamon1 pinch nutmeg2 cups thinly sliced red Swiss chardTo taste salt and pepper

1 Place broth wine water and tomato paste in a large pot and bring to a simmer on medium-high heat Add lentils and cook for 15 minutes

2 Add onion fennel maple syrup and spices and continue to cook for 15 minutes

Spiced Green Lentil and Chard Soup

3 Add Swiss chard and cook until leaves are tender about 2-3 minutes Season to taste with salt and pepper and serve

Dan Clapson is a freelance food writer and columnist in Calgary When hersquos not writing about Canadarsquos amazing culinary scene he is likely listening to 80s rock or 90s boy bands Follow him on twitter dansgoodside

Spinach and Cashew Soup with Poblano and Scallion Salsa

Serves 4 Total cook time 30 minutes not including cashew soak time

Soup1frac12 cups roasted cashews2 cups (500 mL) water4 cups (1 L) vegetable broth4 cups cooked spinach1 Tbs (15 mL) apple cider vinegar1 Tbs (15 mL) maple syrupfrac12 tsp cayenne peppersalt and pepper to tastecashew butter for garnish optional

1 Place cashews and water in a container cover and let sit on counter overnight

2 Combine cashews water and remaining soup ingredients in a blender and pureacutee until very smooth

3 Pour contents of blender through a fine mesh strainer into a medium pot Bring to a simmer on medium-high heat and cook for 15 minutes Season to taste with salt and pepper and keep warm on stove until ready to serve

4 Place a couple of spoonfuls of the salsa into each bowl and ladle soup around it Add a couple of dollops of cashew butter for a little extra richness

Salsa1 large poblano pepper halved and seeds removed1 bunch scallions2 Tbs (30 mL) canola oil2 Tbs fresh mint roughly chopped1 tsp (5 mL) lemon juicefrac12 tsp cane sugarfrac12 tsp chili flakessalt and pepper to taste

1 Preheat oven to 400ordm F

2 Place poblano halves and scallions on a baking sheet drizzle with oil and roast until slightly charred about 15-18 minutes

3 Remove from oven allow to cool slightly then give them a rough chop

4 Add to a bowl with remaining ingredients and toss to combine Season liberally with salt and pepper

20

Photograph courtesy California Wine Institute

Ever since Napa Valley cabernet sauvignons and chardonnays bested their more historic counterparts from Bordeaux and Burgundy in the now-famous Judgment of Paris tasting in 1976 California and its flagship region have carried the torch for the bold dense fruity lushly oaked wines that brought them worldwide fame

Forty years later this sun-drenched style of wines remains both unapologetically enjoyable and wildly popular and Napa is on the bucket list of any devoted wine tourist But as tastes and trends start to evolve away from a focus on power and concentration towards greater elegance and food-friendliness winemakers in California are again taking to the frontier gravitating towards the statersquos physical and climatic extremes to explore new boundaries of flavour and complexity Californiarsquos cooler corners

California Coolby PETER VETSCH

California is a land of frontiers dangling on the edge of the Pacific home of the Gold Rush and epicentre of the New Worldrsquos insurgence onto the global wine scene

are fast becoming its second face in the world of wine

Sonoma County north of San Francisco and just west of Napa is probably Californiarsquos second best-known region almost equally recognized for its cabernets chardonnays and zinfandels The largest subregion in the county taking up almost a third of its total area is the western Sonoma Coast too expansive at 500000 acres to have a distinct identity

However the western border of this appellation a razorrsquos edge straddling the ocean locally known as the ldquotruerdquo Sonoma Coast showcases the regionrsquos true character - extreme viticulture wet cool and always windy at elevations up to 2000 feet balanced on the San Andreas Fault with many vines growing above the fog line and constantly exposed to the throes of the Pacific Pinot noir takes on a unique expression here on low-yielding vines in the cool above the rest of Sonoma offering both remarkable purity of fruit and astonishing acidity and structure

Pinot is also predominant in the relatively new Santa Rita Hills subregion of the Santa Ynez Valley located an hour and a half northwest of Los Angeles and similarly perched right alongside the ocean The maritime influence dominates the microclimate and counteracts the California sun with fog and cool breezes to the point where this coastal spot becomes a near ideal substitute for chilly Burgundy Here the core Burgundian varietals of pinot noir and chardonnay thrive in a particularly striking edgy way

Santa Ynez is the only wine region in the western hemisphere where the arearsquos defining mountain range runs east-west instead of north-south creating a sort of maritime wind tunnel that sucks cold Pacific air eastward This leads to some of the largest diurnal (day to night) temperature shifts in North America and allows inland grapes ripening in the scorching daytime heat to recharge and maintain acidity at night This special geological feature allows a wide range of reds in Santa Ynez to be juicy but still structured bold yet balanced from cabernet and merlot to syrah and grenache

Halfway between the Sonoma Coast to the north and the Santa Rita Hills to the south along yet another coastline

California can comfortably both provide continuity

and defy stereotype

Wine Picks

Peter is a local lawyer by day and wine writer by night maintaining his own wine blog at popandpourca He is always on the lookout for the next way to experience wine and the next good bottle to try

A LITTLE SIBLING RIVALRY NEVER HURT ANYBODY

FOUR SETTINGS ONE PHILOSOPHY crmrcom338 - 17th Avenue SW

c i l a n t ro

747 Lake Bonavista Dr SE113 - 8th Avenue SW 340 - 17th Avenue SW

Sequoia Grove 2012 Cabernet Sauvignon (Napa Valley)Textbook cabernet from Naparsquos heart of Rutherford with deep black fruit mint and cedarhellip and a survivable price tag CSPC +740382 $56

Hartford Court Landrsquos Edge Vineyard Pinot Noir (Sonoma Coast)The ferocity of the Sonoma Coast somehow creates the picture of elegance in this juicy yet delicate pinot CSPC +717210 $60

Domaine de la Cote 2013 Pinot Noir (Sta Rita Hills) Seriously pushes the boundaries picked almost insanely early for low-alcohol herbal pomegranate and rhubarb acidic tension and energy CSPC +761893 $58

Alice May Crosswinds Syrah (Santa Ynez Valley) A syrahviognier Cote Rotie-style co-ferment that matches Cali ripeness with surprising verve and delicacy CSPC +761131 $28

Ridge 2013 Geyserville (Santa Cruz Mountains)This will change your expectations of zinfandel A zin-heavy field blend it combines the best of its mountain altitude and the California sun CSPC +426379 $55

just south of San Jose the wineries of the Santa Cruz Mountains prove again that those seeking to make modern moderate wines in California head both west and up The highest vineyards in Santa Cruz despite being just miles from the ocean are at 2600 feet this significant altitude and the cool Pacific climate results in chiseled wines with controlled ripeness and serious staying power

The region is both expansive and miniscule with only 1500 of its 480000 acres currently planted to grapes and its very-California plantings (cabernet chardonnay pinot noir zinfandel and merlot) all take on an Old World character and rusticity from its rugged terrain and stony mineral-laden soils Despite the challenges associated with growing grapes on a cool rock face Santa Cruz is a state leader in sustainable growing practices

The friendly sunny face of California wine is surely here to stay but Santa Cruz Santa Ynez and the Sonoma Coast are permanent proof that the state is readily capable of more than one expression With its range of climate and terrain California can comfortably both provide continuity and defy stereotype

22

En GardeA Beginnerrsquos Guide To Knives And Their Usesby ANNA BROOKS

Itrsquos difficult to imagine that sharp little number thatrsquos slicing away to the rhythm of your favourite cooking music (or to the beating of child-size fists hungry for dinner) was more often used for combat not chopping carrots

Despite King Louis XIVrsquos decree that the tips of knives be ground down to reduce violence in the mid-1600s kitchen knives still (for quite pointed reasons) make popular murder weapons

But we wonrsquot get into grisly stories of guts and gore here Whether yoursquore a chef extraordinaire or the person whose knife knowledge goes as far as cutting

vegetables with a steak knife there are some things everyone should know about knives

The first major thing we must insist upon is putting down that expensive 14-piece knife set As most knife experts can attest to three main knives can cover almost all the work that a layman cook needs to do in the kitchen

23

Three main knives can cover almost all the work that a layman cook needs

to do in the kitchen

Chefrsquos Knife Your standard knife for mincing and slicing vegetables and meat a chefrsquos knife is typically 20-25 cm long but can range all the way up to 36 cm

Luke Pickett from Knifewear is a sight to see wielding some wickedly sharp

handcrafted Japanese models but despite their carnivorous look Pickett said therersquos really nothing to fear

ldquoThere are a lot of people who are scared of really large knivesrdquo Pickett said ldquoBut having good quality kitchen equipment will make your life easierrdquo

For beginners a standard 20 cm chefrsquos knife (although Pickett said blade length is purely based on personal preference) is best to start with but a Japanese Santoku knife mdash an elegant slightly smaller version of a chefrsquos knife mdash will certainly get the job er meal done

Paring KnifeOn the other side of the knife spectrum is the pocket-sized paring knife (note carrying knives in pockets not recommended)

Regan Johnson assistant manager at The Cookbook Co said besides what the individual using a steak knife to cut everything might think the small intricate work required of a paring knife (such as peeling and trimming) should not be done on a cutting board

ldquoParing is anything you can be doing in the air mdash yoursquore not ever supposed to use a paring knife on a boardrdquo she explained

Johnson added that for someone like herself who does almost as much blade-wielding as a samurai she also recommends a utility knife

which is a hybrid of a chefrsquos knife and a paring knife

ldquoI reach for my utility knife a lotrdquo she said ldquoItrsquos got that shape of a paring knife but is longer Itrsquos just for those things in between that you donrsquot need your giant chefrsquos knife forrdquo

Bread KnifeThe last of the big three is of course a bread knife Have you ever tried to cut a loaf of bread with a straight blade Not so easy (or safe) a task

Itrsquos sometimes difficult to do but no matter the type of knife yoursquore using itrsquos important to try and slice as opposed to chopping or sawing It

is quite tempting (and often seems easier) to saw away at the crispy crust of a floured loaf of sourdough but Knifewearrsquos Pickett said sawing can

be a slippery slope to your bread knifersquos grave

ldquoIf you slice you can use the entire blade and itrsquos a lot sharper along the edgerdquo he explained ldquoItrsquos important to get a good bread knife because you canrsquot sharpen them like you can any other sort of kniferdquo

The Big Three

24

Having good quality kitchen equipment will

make your life easier

Anna Brooks is an award-winning journalist from Calgary Alberta She has worked internationally in Thailand and Africa and has been published in Metro BeatRoute Magazine and the Calgary Journal She also enjoys animal rights fantasy fiction and whiskey sours

Tips and TricksOf course you can adorn your kitchen with the countless others belonging to the knife family mdash cleavers carvers boning knives cheese knives etc mdash but if yoursquore not planning on hacking through solid bone anytime soon you probably donrsquot need to spend $200 on a meat cleaver

But there are some other knife-related implements that are important to have in your kitchen

First off a proper cutting board While plastic cutting boards are versatile and can be chucked in the dishwasher wood is really the best way to go Cutting boards are the quickest way to ruin a knife so steer clear of fancy-looking glass or granite boards mdash they are the antagonists of our story

Itrsquos also not a bad idea to have a knife honer on hand As a reminder (or for

those who had no idea what that random rod in the kitchen was used for) honers are for honing not sharpening

ldquoWith use the metal fibres in a knife edge can get bent to one side or another All yoursquore doing with honing is straightening those fibres back outrdquo Johnson from The Cookbook Co explained ldquoSharpening means yoursquore actually removing material and grinding the metal down to a finer edgerdquo

Johnson added that while you can sharpen at home she always recommends getting your knives sharpened professionally at least once a year depending on how much theyare used

Before you go back to making your lazy-day grilled cheese sandwich or that complex stew yoursquove spent hours on we just want to remind you of whatrsquos called ldquothe pinch griprdquo

Not to sound snobbish but grabbing a knife by the handle and hacking away is poor form Use your thumb and index finger to grasp the blade and then wrap your remaining fingers under the bolster of the knife Shape your other hand into a claw to protect your fingertips from accidentally getting lopped off firmly grasp the object to be cut and slice away

If this knowledge was present in the 17th century perhaps old King Louis XIV would be tipping his crown to more cooks not kitchen knife combatants

25

Times Are A Changing Unexpected Take-Outs

by LINDA GARSON and DIANA NG photography by INGRID KUENZEL

Therersquos no denying that many of our cityrsquos restaurants are feeling the effects of the current economic downturn fewer people working downtown ndash indeed fewer people working altogether and so looking to save money by eating out less means many bricks and mortar restaurants are having to get creative with ways to fully utilise their kitchens and staff

High rents exacerbate the situation so itrsquos time for Calgary restaurateurs to think outside the box and proving to be the innovative entrepreneurs that wersquore known for many are diversifying their offerings to include take-out options both raw and cooked

Catch amp The Oyster Bar launched their ldquoBuy Catchrdquo program where you can pick up fresh Ocean Wise seafood to take home and cook (complete with recipes) along with house-made clam chowder and sauces nearly two years ago There are big savings to be had over dining in with no costs for linen or staff and no expectation to tip

Here are four Calgary eateries also getting clever with take-out

programs that are not widely publicised - and may

open a few eyes

26

Centini Restaurant

Itrsquos not a cookie cutter program but the magic of Centinirsquos take-out is that you can ask the kitchen for ideas of what you should have for dinner People even text the servers for suggestions and to order Loyal customers mostly busy businessmen were asking if they catered but without the staff for such a service Centini started offering to prepare dishes for them to cook themselves

Now you can get your favourite restaurant dishes from rack of lamb with red wine demi-glace AAA Alberta beef tenderloin with Gorgonzola pan sauce and sea bass with ginger cream sauce ready to cook at home ldquoWersquore not going to open a bricks and mortar restaurant down south but our food is going thererdquo says Chevonne Centini Theyrsquore seeing pick-ups such as for people stuck at home with a new baby and even 40 people for a funeral

Boxwood

Itrsquos hard to believe that the quality of food coming from the sister restaurant to River Cafe can be had at home and we are not talking about leftovers When

People take home uncooked homemade pasta with sauce separately and even bread dough and often freeze it to cook later or pick up on a Friday evening so everything is prepared ready for Saturday dinner When buying from a restaurant yoursquore getting top quality perfectly trimmed meat everything is done for you - therersquos no shopping

around and even the parsley is chopped And as everything is custom-made all allergies are catered for too

Centini gets fish delivered once or twice every day and it may come as a surprise but with a chef garde manger that spent 15 years in Japan they have customers coming just to take out sushi

you go home to an empty fridge it feels like the only options you have are fast food or pizza Not so

Boxwoodrsquos fresh and seasonal fare is also available to take home While you wonrsquot

be able to enjoy the quaint atmosphere of the restaurant you can order anything on the menu for take out with its special offering being the whole rotisserie free-range chicken which serves two to four people for $40

Many bricks and mortar restaurants are

having to get creative with ways to fully utilise their

kitchens and staff

You will need to call a few hours ahead (the website states before 200 pm) for enough notice for the chicken but for the rest of the selection like its soups and sandwiches you can simply look up the menu online and call to place an order For a perfect night in may we suggest starting with its bison tartare then moving onto the porchetta and another main before finishing off the meal with a slice of pie

27

Gaucho

For most people the elaborate setup of Brazilian barbecue is one of its biggest attractions You may not know this and while you may not be able to take home the lively decor of Gaucho you can actually take the meal home

The spit packed tightly with freshly roasted meats the sign at the table that signals yoursquore ready for more and the roasted and caramelized pineapple that tops off the meal all contribute to the atmosphere but if all you want are the meats and sides for a hefty dinner you can certainly order the meal as a take-out

Order any of the four options (top sirloin pork loin chicken wings or mild sausage) and add three sides from the list of eight which includes a variety of salads black bean stew and rice And because you canrsquot just have one kind of meat when it comes to Brazilian barbecue you can choose additional

Safari Grill

The marinated thinly sliced BBQ short beef ribs at Safari Grill are already a must-have for those in the know but we suspect even regulars will be surprised to discover that you can pick

up uncooked ribs with your choice of seven marinades to take home and BBQ yourself

With none of the associated costs of dining in $65 buys you enough ribs for 10 people and customers actually drive

meats for $4 each Finally choose the sauce yoursquod like to accompany your meal Orders for over five people will come in a big white box and individual

orders come will in regular take-out containers For big parties do call a few hours ahead All you need to make at home is the caipirinha

from Saskatchewan to take away 10-15 lb bags of these uncooked marinated ribs Some people call and ask for them to be marinated and frozen in 5 lb bags to enjoy later as just 5-7 minutes each side on a high flame has the raw ribs ready to eat

And itrsquos not only ribs that people BBQ at home Mishkaki are skewers of marinated chicken beef and prawns and for as little as $3 each you can have a very inexpensive BBQ feast Marinated raw lamb chops are also available or ask for Samaki - a marinated whole tilapia that comes with a basting sauce to brush on You can even get uncooked samosas to cook in your oven at home

All Safari Grillrsquos regular menu can be ordered for take-out but there is no published price list for uncooked dishes so people call to order and ask - but when yoursquore picking up look out for the new jars of house-made mango and lemon pickles

28

Step By Step Go Nuts With Homemade Nutella And Waffles story and photography by NATALIE FINDLAY

There are many nutritional benefits packed into these small filberts They are rich in dietary fibre packed with folate an excellent source of vitamin E and contain mono-unsaturated fatty acids that

can help lower bad cholesterol and raise good cholesterol By making your own Nutella at home you can control the amount of sugar that is added making this delicious spread basicallyhellip a health food

Hazelnuts have a tried and true following for taking the lead role in the chocolate spread Nutella This long-standing love affair has lasted simply because they add a distinct but subtle flavour to the chocolate Truly a match that is better together than apart

These delicious and super-easy waffles make a great base for your homemade Nutella With the addition of ground hazelnuts to the batter you can deepen the hazelnut flavour and pack in more health benefits

Waffles with raspberries and white chocolate spread

29

Natalie is a freelance writer photographer and pastry chef A graduate of Cordon Bleursquos pastry program she manages her own business too to create custom-made cakes

Using the same waffle recipe from above and switching out the mashed banana and adding frac12 a medium orange ndash juice and zest ndash to the batter you have a delicious orange waffle that will highlight the white chocolate hazelnut spread recipe below

Homemade White Chocolate Hazelnut Spread Makes 1frac12 cups

1frac12 cups (200 g) whole hazelnutsfrac12 cup (70 g) icing sugar2 Tbs (30 mL) canola oil1 tsp (5 mL) vanilla extract1 cup (250g) white chocolate

Follow directions for Homemade Nutella and add the melted white chocolate at the end Pulse to combine

Macerated Raspberries with Orange Serves 6

250 g fresh raspberriesfrac12 medium orange zest and juice1 Tbs icing sugarfrac12 tsp vanilla extract

Add all ingredients into a medium bowl and stir to combine Let sit for about 1 hour

Serve your warm waffles topped with your white chocolate homemade hazelnut spread macerated berries and a dollop of whipped cream or ice cream

Note Homemade Nutella has more texture than store bought and will last around 1 month in the fridge Waffles can be made ahead and frozen Thaw and reheat in the waffle maker or the oven

Banana Fruit compoteMakes enough for 6

3 ripe bananas peeled sliced into rounds2 Tbs (30 g) butter2 Tbs (30 g) brown sugar1frac12 tsp (8 mL) vanilla extract1frac12 tsp (8 mL) bourbon

1 Add butter and sugar to a sauteacute pan over medium heat As they melt stir to combine

2 Add vanilla and bourbon than add sliced bananas and sauteacute until warmed through

Serve your warm waffles topped with your homemade hazelnut spread sauteacuteed bananas and a dollop of whipped cream or ice cream

Homemade Nutella Makes 1frac12 cups

1frac12 cups (200 g) whole hazelnutsfrac34 cup (100g) icing sugar3 Tbs (45 mL) canola oilfrac14 cup (30 g) cocoa powder1 tsp (5 mL) vanilla extract

1 Toast hazelnuts on a baking pan in a preheated 350ordm F oven for 10 - 15 minutes Keep an eye on them to make sure they donrsquot start to burn Remove from oven and let cool to the touch

2 Wrap the nuts in a kitchen towel and rub together to remove the skins This should remove most of the skins

3 Place skinless hazelnuts in a food processor on high Process the nuts until they form a smooth paste and the oils start to separate (about 5 minutes) scraping the bowl often

4 Add the icing sugar cocoa powder vanilla and canola oil to the food processor and process until fully incorporated scraping bowl of processor as needed (about 2 minutes)

Hazelnut Banana WafflesMakes 6

frac12 cup (80 g) all purpose flour1 tsp baking powderfrac12 tsp baking sodaPinch sea salt1 Tbs (15 g) icing sugar1 Tbs (10 g) ground hazelnuts6 grates whole nutmeg1 tsp ground cinnamonfrac12 cup (125 mL) buttermilk1 egg yolk2 Tbs (30 g) butter meltedfrac12 small banana peeled and mashed1 egg white

1 Sift together all dry ingredients (except the ground hazelnuts) in a medium bowl Add the ground hazelnuts and combine

2 Mash the half banana in a small bowl with a fork Add the egg buttermilk and melted butter

3 Whisk the egg white to stiff peaks

4 Whisk the wet ingredients into the dry and fold the egg white into the mixture

5 Follow the directions for your waffle pan to cook waffles for around 5 minutes or until cooked through

Note Remember to bring the waffle pan up to temperature in between each batch of waffles

Hazelnut Banana Waffles with Nutella

30

Citrus Beer Friendsby DAVID NUTTALL

This is when the taste andor aroma of a beer can remind the drinker of anything from an orange drink or lemonade to grapefruit soda There are several ways to achieve this character and these beers are becoming more and more popular every day

Hops provide the bitterness in beer and out of the literally hundreds of varieties a few impart citrus notes into the aroma and flavour Cascade and Citra are examples of two of the most popular hops used in several styles of beer most notably the American IPA or India Pale Ale Cascade hops have been around for over 40 years and it is the single most popular hop used by the American craft brewing industry It provides a floralspicy character often reminiscent of grapefruit

Citrarsquos name leaves no guessing as to its attributes A relative newcomer this cross breed of UK German and US hop varieties has been around for less than a decade but it is already an extremely popular hop for imparting

One of the great things about beer is its diversity It can come in a myriad of colours and also a wide variety of flavours citrus being one of the most distinct

Dave Nuttall has been in the liquor and event business forever He is a qualified beer judge and ownerpresident of Epicurean Calgary at epicureancalgarycom for ten years

citrus and tropical fruit characteristics to a beer

It has proven very versatile and appears in several beer styles from session ales to IPAs It has also become a favourite hop to use for dry-hopping (adding hops late into the boil) due to the exceptional aromas it produces For even more flavour and aroma craft brewers now commonly enhance these already citrusy IPAs with actual zest peel or juice from citrus fruits to create an IPAFruit Beer hybrid which sells especially well in summer months

Then there is the yeast and many varieties of yeast can produce citrusy esters The unfiltered hefeweizens brewed on both sides of the Atlantic quite often have a lemony flavour Sour beers also showcase the yeast often cultured from Belgian strains

These beers are tart and produce a gamut of flavours many with citrus qualities and some have added fruit - the easiest and most obvious way to create a citrusy beer The Belgians also add different kinds of oranges with spice additions to their wheat ales to create wit beers now emulated all over the world with different citrus (and other) fruits involved in the recipe We also canrsquot forget the radlers which are simply a lager beer mixed with 40-60 fruit juice - often grapefruit or lemonade

Whether itrsquos added fruit the yeast the hops or a combination of all of them citrusy beers are commonplace now Thanks to new hops like Citra and the increasing popularity of wits and sours we can expect this trend to continue

Here are a few local beers with hints of citrus All are also available on tap

Beer comes in a myriad of colours and flavours citrus being one of the

most distinct

Ribstone Creek Great White CombineThis tiny Edgerton Alberta brewery has been knocking it out of the park lately Named after the ubiquitous Alberta summer hailstorm the use of Belgian yeast sweet orange peel and coriander give this beer an orange flavour in the beginning When the four different hop additions kick in it changes more to a sweet lemony flavour This White IPA has a very tropical feel that makes you forget it was made in northern Alberta CSPC +774162 $16 6-pack cans

Wild Rose Cowbell Sour ales are the new Belle of the Ball at craft breweries Often using imported Belgian yeast strains they are tart tangy and wellhellip sour Calgaryrsquos Wild Rose has taken this flavour profile and added kaffir lime leaves This makes the beer more like a refreshing limeade and is less bitter than many of its other sour counterparts CSPC +778093 $17 6-pack bottles

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TICKETS AVAILABLE AT ALBERTABEERFESTIVALSCOM

MAY 6-7 2016FRIDAY3-10 PM BEER GEEK VIP4-10 PM GENERAL ADMISSION

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Citradelic Single Hop IPA Big Rock BreweryWith breweries in two (soon to be three) provinces Big Rock now has multiple locations to develop new beers This is the first one from their Vancouver brewery and is full of lemongrapefruit flavours and tropical aromas This beer showcases the Citra hop fooling one to think that citrus has been added when itrsquos all thanks to the hop CSPC +778593 $15 6-pack bottles

Alley Kat Main SqueezeWhat started out as a summer seasonal has now become a mainstay of this Edmonton brewery A North American style wheat ale with a 50 wheat and 50 barley mix it has added grapefruit juice but tastes more along the lines of pink grapefruit rather than its more bitter cousin CSPC +733630 $17 6-pack bottles

32

story by RENEE KOHLMAN

Cheesecake is one of those classic desserts that almost everyone loves unless of course you have a dairy allergy then yoursquoll stay far far away from it While it may seem too complicated to make at home I assure you that itrsquos not

Spice it up cheesecake

Sure there are a few steps involved but the key thing to remember is to have your eggs and cream cheese at room temperature For the best crack-free cheesecake itrsquos best to bake it in a water bath It yields a light creamy texture and is well worth the effort Cheesecake always tastes better the next day so bake it the day before you want to serve it Now that wersquove got the basics down itrsquos time to have a little fun with the crust filling and toppings

The Base

The classic graham cracker crust is fine but every now and again itrsquos great to switch things up Try

ndash Grinding up ginger cookies They work especially well for a pumpkin cheesecake

ndash Chocolate cookie crumbs are fantastic for caramel peanut butter and raspberry cheesecakes

ndash Add finely chopped nuts oats or seeds to the cookie crumbs for added texture and taste

The Middle

Therersquos something to be said for a straight up vanilla or chocolate cheesecake but with some fun add-ins they could take your cheesecake to the next level of deliciousness Try

ndash Swirling tahini dulce de leche salted caramel or chocolate fudge sauce into a creamy vanilla filling

ndash Mix in chopped chocolate peanut butter cups to a chocolate filling

ndash Drop fresh berries (raspberries blueberries blackberries) on top of a vanilla filling

ndash Stir in chopped candied ginger dried cherries or cranberries chopped toasted nuts to the filling

ndash Swap some of the cream cheese with ricotta mascarpone cheese or even strained cottage cheese

ndash You can never go wrong with lemon zest in a vanilla cheesecake

Have a little fun with the crust filling

and toppings

33

Apple Crumble CheesecakeMakes about 12-14 servings Total cook and prep time 3 hours (plus overnight chilling)

I love apple crisp and I love cheesecake This recipe is a fine marriage of both and makes a more than acceptable breakfast The base is a crumble of oats and flour the middle is classic cheesecake and itrsquos topped with cinnamon apples and a buttery oat streusel

Crust 2 cups large flake oats1 cup all purpose flour cup packed brown sugarfrac34 cup butter meltedfrac12 tsp salt

Cheesecake Layer3 - 225 g packages cream cheese at room temperature cup granulated sugar1 tsp (5 mL) vanilla3 large eggs at room temperature cup (80 mL) whipping cream

Apple Layer2 apples peeled cored and sliced about 3-4 mm thick1 tsp ground cinnamonfrac12 tsp salt

Streusel Layer1 cup large flake oatsfrac12 cup all-purpose flourfrac12 cup brown sugarfrac12 cup butter softened1 tsp ground cinnamon

Preheat the oven to 375ordm F

1 Butter the bottom and sides of a 9-inch springform pan with sides that are at least 7 cm high Wrap the bottom of the pan in aluminum foil so it comes at least halfway up the sides

2 Combine the crust ingredients in a large bowl Press the crust evenly into the pan and place on a baking sheet Bake for 10 minutes Remove from oven and let it cool on a wire rack

3 Reduce heat to 325ordm F Put a kettle of water on to boil Have a large roasting pan close by

4 Using a stand mixer with a paddle attachment beat the cream cheese at medium speed for 4 minutes scraping down the sides once or twice until it is soft and creamy With the mixer still running add the sugar and beat for another 4 minutes scraping down the sides of the bowl at least twice Beat in the vanilla Add the eggs one at a time beating for 1 minute after each addition and scraping the bowl Reduce speed to low and add the whipping cream

5 Toss the sliced apples with the cinnamon and salt in a small bowl Combine all of the streusel ingredients in a medium bowl and mix well

6 Place the springform pan in the roasting pan Give the cheesecake batter a good stir and pour it on top of the crust Arrange the apples on top and sprinkle the streusel on top of the apples

7 Place in the oven on the middle rack and pour the hot water into the roasting pan so it comes halfway up the sides of the springform pan

8 Bake the cheesecake for 1frac12 hours Turn off the heat prop open the oven door and let the cheesecake hang inside for another hour

9 Carefully remove from the oven and take out the cheesecake from the hot water bath Remove the foil and let the cheesecake come to room temperature on a wire rack Cover the top lightly and refrigerate for at least 4 hours but overnight is best The next day remove the sides of the pan and serve the cake

Renee is a food writer and pastry chef living in beautiful Saskatoon Saskatchewan Her columns appear in The Saskatoon StarPhoenix and her desserts can be enjoyed at Riverside Country Club Also check out her blog wwwsweetsugarbeancom

The Toppings

Cheesecake with no fun toppings is like a salad with no dressing it just doesnrsquot reach its full flavour potential Try

ndash Salted caramel roasted strawberry sauce or warm chocolate sauce

ndash A rhubarbcardamom compote is divine on top of vanilla cheesecake kissed with a bit of lemon zest Cherry compote is divine with chocolate cheesecake

ndash Have a favourite jam Melt it down with a tiny bit of water and drizzle it on top of your favourite cheesecake

ndash Candied nuts and citrus rind chocolate shavings even crumbled cookies are a fun way to add texture to the cheesecake

ndash Never underestimate the power of fresh seasonal berries and a well-made cheesecakeMacerate them in a little sugar and minced mint or basil and they make a lovely topping Donrsquot forget the whipped cream

34

Think about that for a moment and let that sink in like a cherry in your drink

So how old is ice in bars Well thatrsquos a whole story on its own however the Old Fashioned has been talked about in one form or another since the beginning of the 19th Century The first appearance of this classic cocktail was in the Balance and Columbian Repository newspaper in 1806 as such ldquoA stimulating liquor composed of spirits of any kind sugar water and bittersrdquo

The Old FashionedAn Iconic Drink That Has Stood The Test Of Time

by BRICE PERESSINI

Sohelliphow old is the Old Fashioned The Old Fashioned is as old as ice in bars

When you follow these instructions and put this finely-crafted cocktail into your hand swirl around the ice gaze through the caramel-coloured liquid in the glass and contemplate all that has gone into it you can rest assured you are holding a drink that has delighted taste buds for generations The Old Fashioned however has not always been held in high regard There was a time not too long ago where this fine concoction was an unbalanced fruity watered-down pale imitation of itself More recently

there has been a renaissance involved with this invigorating intoxicant and you can and should expect a proper cocktail when it is ordered at a fine establishment

When this drink is properly prepared it should be in perfect balance (as any proper drink should be) The sweetness of the sugar should not cover the flavour of the bourbon and the bitters should add to not overpower the flavour of the whiskey When the Old Fashioned is well made it is as close to cocktail perfection as a sophisticated patron could expect

Befriend a bespoke barkeep at an upstanding establishment and you will be in trusted hands If you find yourself at home and wanting for a nightcap look no further than the Old Fashioned

Enjoy friends

Old Fashioned Recipe

2 oz Buffalo Trace Bourbon (or your personal favourite)4 dashes Angostura Aromatic Bitters1 raw sugar cube

Muddle the sugar and bitters together with a touch of warm water in a rocks glass Add the bourbon then add ice Stir and garnish with an orange peel and cherry (optional)

Brice is a competition cocktail bartender who plies his trade behind the wood at Chefbar Whisk(e)y is his poison Neat

35

Shoulder Season Wines

by JACLYN ADOMEIT

Wines For Cool Weather

Refreshing white wines match with sunny patios and hot days while bold tannic red wines earn their keep by a fireplace on a winter night Common sense But what about the shoulder season What if yoursquore eating sea bass on a rainy spring day Or sipping wine on a patio during an uncommonly warm April afternoon

Photograph courtesy Tom Firth

36

Wine not only pairs with food but with temperatures and seasons A bright sauvignon blanc can taste flat and acidic on a cold night at no fault of the wine or the drinker Some white wines are other-worldly at the vineyard tasting room in the summer but fall flat when you pull them out for dinner guests in the winter

The change in taste is likely due to a number of factors Anatomically it is your sinus cavities creating the change Higher atmospheric pressures allow your nose to pick out subtle aromas while lower pressures bring out a winersquos acidity and harsh tannins CO2 degasses from liquid at low pressure leaving wines dull and flat too

Serving temperature can greatly affect a winersquos aromatics white wines chilled to near-freezing have dull aromas (Tip allow the bottle a half hour on the counter before popping the cork This will allow the aromatics to warm up enhancing the flavour)

Lastly your own palate will be partial to different flavours depending on sun snow wind and sleet but as a rule of thumb higher alcohol white wines (approximately 13 percent or more) will warm the soul and pair best with cooler weather

Here are some wine selections to go for when it is not too hot and not too cold so you can choose a pairing thatrsquos just right

Fiano

Yoursquoll notice that many of the best white wines for cold weather are grown in hot places Hot climates mean a longer growing season more sugar which leads to higher alcohol and often more robust and tropical flavours All of this is true for fiano - seldom grown outside of Campania in southern Italy Fiano produces age-worthy wines which are rich nutty and delicious

Feudi Di San Gregorio 2014 Campania Fiano di Avellino Italy A beautiful floral bouquet with candied lemon followed by honey-coated hazelnuts on the palate Worth cellaring for a few seasons The perfect dance partner for poultry CSPC +708589 $33

Viognier

Viognier is a white varietal that is best consumed at slightly higher temperatures A chilly glass of viognier will leave you with acid maybe oak and not much else Allow it to warm and you may experience peach pear and toasted almond

Traditionally grown in the warm south of France viognier is often a higher alcohol white wine with rich tropical flavours The heat of the alcohol with tropical flavours and lower acid makes viognier the perfect wine to sip while watching a late spring snowfall

Paul Mas 2014 Languedoc-Roussillon Viognier France Brimming with apricot almond lemon and ripe peach Contains hints of warming oak Pair with something savoury baked brie or spinach-filled puff pastry CSPC + 740978 $17

Dry Roseacute

There is so much more to be had from roseacute than white zinfandel And no itrsquos not just a mix of red and white wine The best roseacute is made from red skinned grapes that only sit on their skins for up to a day and a half to borrow colour and flavour then are fermented and processed

Refined examples of roseacute wines are often dry and have deep aromas of red fruits mild tannins and are savoury instead of sweet The French and Spanish craft great examples of dry roseacutes that are either a single varietal or a blend of grapes such as mourvegravedre grenache syrah or tempranillo

Muga Roseacute 2014 Rioja Grenache Viura and Tempranillo Spain A tamed Rioja Orange blossom woven together with strawberry and a palate of cherry and savoury soft cheese Ideal for charcuterie CSPC + 710261 $16

Orange Wine

Never heard of orange wine A commercial demand for natural wines has fostered a resurgence in ancient wine making practices While roseacute wines are reds that have been produced using white wine making practices orange wines are created from white grapes submitted to maceration and allowed to sit on the skins before fermentation the same practice employed in red winemaking

Unlike any white you have tasted orange wines are full-bodied have mild tannins and deep flavours - the characteristics that allow red wines to bring warmth to cool nights A must try for any wine buff

Allow the bottle a half hour on the counter

before popping the cork

The Bicicleta wines are characterized by their fruity expression and for offering more than

the traditional strains a clear example of this range`s innovation style and creativity

Cono Sur Vineyards amp Winery ConoSurVineyards ConoSurWinesconosurcom

The brewhouse at Wild Rose

Jaclynrsquos first passion was winemaking Shersquos worked in vineyards cellars and restaurants Currently she is a writer who daylights as an environmental engineer She believes that a good life like a good wine is not complete without balance

Nichol 2013 Naramata Pinot Gris Canada A Canadian example of orange wine with backbone Flavours of caramel apple roast nuts orange rind and peach CSPC +504159 $31

Oaked chardonnay

In and out with popular palates oak and chardonnay have been partners for a long time Oak paired with chardonnay can bring out butter richness toasted vanilla tree fruit and in the best examples shimmering minerality That is because oak aging is often accompanied by a malolactic fermentation process that smooths out rigid acids into lactic acid - the acid found in milk

Chardonnay is a grape of many talents and encounters a great diversity of production styles It is oaked examples that pair best with pensive rainy days They are full-bodied warming and complex

Wente Morning Fog 2014 Livermore Valley (California) Chardonnay USA Half oak-aged and malolactic-fermented half crisp and fresh this chardonnay brings together green apple vanilla and toasted oak A friend to cream sauce and roast chicken CSPC +175430 $18

In a province of mutable weather let your wine choices be as varied as the ever changing winds Cheers and herersquos to refined full-bodied cool-weather wines

38

Once yoursquore done with your magazine cover shoot like we did this month or prepping for dinner and have all of those odds and ends just sitting on the cutting board - you know carrot ends onion skins tips of celery stalks you get the point - donrsquot toss lsquoem

Instead place them into a large ziploc bag and straight into the freezer After a couple of weeks yoursquoll likely have four full freezer bags of vegetable bits ready to be turned into broth and herersquos how you do it

Making a big batch of vegetable broth doesnrsquot always mean a trip to the grocery store All you need to do is save those scraps This is a handy trick I learned years ago courtesy of Bon Appetit

No-Waste Vegetable Broth

by DAN CLAPSON

Odds And Ends BrothYields 8 cups (2 L)

12 cups (3 L) water4 full ziploc bags of vegetable trimmings1 yellow onion quartered4 cloves garlicAromatics of choice (I usually toss a couple of rosemary and thyme sprigs in there)To taste Salt and pepper

1 Place all ingredients in a large pot and bring to a boil on medium-high heat

2 Reduce to medium heat and let simmer uncovered for 1frac12 hours

3 Strain season to taste with salt and pepper and use as desired

Full circlePizza amp Oyster Bar

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40

Salentein 2012 Reserve Chardonnay Uco Valley Argentina

Very very enjoyable chardonnay blowing me away with complexity varietal character and fine balance between oak lees and fruit Toffee baked apple tangerine and a little almond on the nose lead into silkily textured wine in the mouth Top shelf chardonnay that might be great with lobster tails mussels or poultry Around $20 CSPC +779479

Rutini 2013 Cabernet Malbec Mendoza Argentina

An exceptionally well put together blend - if you want rich berry fruits lots of body but maybe not tons of varietal characters from the individual components Lifted and bright fruits make for a very enjoyable glass Simply perfect for your next barbecue a roast or just chilling out with friends and family $26-30 CSPC +776822

Vinecol 2014 Organic Malbec Mendoza Argentina Fair Trade organic and vegan along with a good price is it still good Piles of fresh fruits (think smashed raspberries) with plenty of spice and soft herb-leaf aromas There are plenty of malbec flavours on the palate too Good for any day of the week with just a little tension between fruit tannin and acid it might be best with pub style burgers pulled pork or sausages About $16 CSPC +755296

Argentina is so much more than malbec While such a noble grape has found its best home in the high altitude vineyards of Argentina there is a lot going on with other grapes as well

Making The Case For Argentina

by TOM FIRTH

This massive country nestled up against the Andes mountains has a range of growing conditions suited to a number of grapes From Salta in the north to Patagonia in the south plenty of interesting wines are available here - many reasonably priced and of excellent quality So yes there are some

malbecs on these pages but please do try some of the other grapes and blends coming from Argentina too

Be sure to crack open a bottle of malbec on ldquoWorld Malbec Dayrdquo April 17 - who knows it might be nice enough to barbecue too

Photograph courtesy Tom Firth

41

Manos Negras 2011 Stone Soil Select Mendoza Argentina Quite new to the market this is a pretty enjoyable version of Argentinarsquos flagship grape Loads of blue fruit and raspberries with spices galore and a little compost Rich flavours lead to a lengthy spicy finish Yes please Bring to a barbecue if you can $21 CSPC +630541

Zuccardi 2012 Zeta Mendoza Argentina

A malbec-cabernet sauvignon blend that is also a blend of two different Mendoza appellations La Consulta and Gualtallary Deep and abundant fruit aromas with liquorice root and a touch of blueberry preserves Excellent balance of flavours on the palate too with the right structure and tannin for aging if desired Enjoy with a prime rib or even meaty pasta dishes or game $50-52 CSPC +740270

Zuccardi 2012 ldquoEmmardquo Bonarda Mendoza Argentina

In my humble opinion one of the finest bonardas coming out of Argentina Notes of coffee bean and espresso complement cherry and blackberry fruits with healthy balanced tannins to stand up to the tart fruits Delicious for sure enjoy at your next barbecue $40 CSPC +758407

Luigi Bosca 2011 Cabernet-Malbec Mendoza Argentina

A wonderfully earthy and savoury blend with plenty of tobacco spice leather and yes lots of fruit too The earthy flavours work well with the big dark chocolate flavours and weighty tannins Drink now or through 2020 or so - with a steak naturally $22-24 CSPC +766010

Trivento 2013 Golden Reserve Malbec Lujan de Cuyo Argentina While there is a trend to see a lot of premium malbecs move away from oak presence this one is a bold smooth and delicious example that is seeing about a year of oak All those berry fruits plums and herb notes malbec is known for along with the smoothness that only oak brings Kick back relax maybe cook up some steaks - enjoy About $24 CSPC +711402

Trivento 2014 Malbec Reserve Mendoza Argentina Nearly unbeatable for good malbec at a great price itrsquos rich and chocolatey on the nose with big fruits and oak tones too Mild garrigue notes or dried herb flavours with plenty of fruit and tannins - still showing a fine sense of balance Enjoy with beef $14 CSPC +730714

Luigi Bosca 2011 De Sangre Mendoza Argentina A blend of cabernet sauvignon merlot and syrah that manages to pull out the best of each varietal Earthy and slightly smoky with good fruits and plenty of versatility Tannins are well-placed against the fruits with a long smooth finish Irsquove been a fan of this wine year after year Good to keep a couple on hand in the cellar About $29 CSPC +745106

Salentein 2012 Numina Gran Corte Uco Valley Argentina A malbec-dominated Bordeaux blend this stunner is all about ripe fruits cedar pepper cherries and plum with a little tealeaf and the right amount of tannins Very very well balanced and like any great wine think about some food to go with it Beef tenderloin slow cooked meats or maybe at your next asadohellip About $40 CSPC +764706

Colonia Las Liebres 2013 Bonarda Mendoza Argentina Bear with me here - a fine bonarda with plenty of earthy smoky aromas leading to rubber charred cherries and cocoa Some pretty prominent tannins to be found as well but wow does it all come together A wine that just begs for duck with cranberries or maybe some kebabshellip$20 CSPC +773381

42

Open That Bottleby LINDA GARSON photography by INGRID KUENZEL

ldquoIf you work in a place and yoursquore miserable I donrsquot know if there is a dollar amount that can be attached to that The work that yoursquore doing has to be rewarding and challengingrdquo says Karen KhoGrowing up in Niagara Falls in a Philippino SpanishChinese family Kho was surrounded by food and drinks with an open door policy that has had a huge influence on the person she is today - an

entertainer who likes to make people feel welcome ldquoMy parents wanted me to be a lawyer there was definitely an encouragement to use my voice for goodrdquo she explains ldquoAnd I still think I help people but in a different way a very social wayrdquo

Graduating Western University with a political science degree in 2000 Kho spent a year travelling and living in Australia before taking a leap of faith and moving to Calgary Here she studied wine with the International Sommeliers Guild and WSET but says her real education was a job she adored working in the wine trade at BIN 905 in tandem with running wine programs for CRMR restaurants It was only when the opportunity came to create the wine program at Vin Room six years later that Kho leapt at the challenge of a new idea for the city and spent four happy years there

Eventually she and her partner decided to stretch their wings and went to Vancouver where Kho embarked on a six-month culinary course at the Pacific Institute of Culinary Arts ticking off another box on her bucket list ldquoI wanted a greater understanding of technique in the kitchen and I wanted an understanding of what service on a very basic level would look like if I ever owned my own place and ever had to be the person who filled inrdquo she says ldquoI feel if I was ever in a place that needed someone to chop onions Irsquom your womanrdquo she laughs

A year later the pair came back with the idea of eventually opening their own business in Calgary ldquoThe support we get from this community is heartfelt and this is a city of opportunity People with the right concept are seeing a lot of great success itrsquos still our game planrdquo she says Meanwhile Kho applied only to Teatro where she is now Group Service Director

ldquoI wanted to work at a place that had a challenging wine program and had a level of service with high expectations and where professional service teams

applyrdquo she says ldquoItrsquos pretty romantic to work for a company that has been built on a foundation of service Successful businesses in the restaurant industry get the grand picture which is the moments that yoursquore creating for people and I like to be a part of thatrdquo she adds

So what bottle is Kho saving for a special occasion

Paying homage to her time at BIN 905 Kho explains ldquoI have a bottle of 1996 Chateau Mouton Rothschild which was given to me with some very kind words on my last day at BIN Irsquove always just appreciated my time there it was where I learned the vernacular of wine and itrsquos my first job where I really saw the benefits of serving people with intentionrdquo She continues ldquoI always see it thankfully as the stepping-stone to a broader wine profession and eventually to the position that I have now It was given to me by very close friends that Irsquom still friends with to this dayrdquo

And when is she planning to open the wine

ldquoWhen (partner) Dave and I open our own restaurantrdquo Kho says This isnrsquot something that something that will happen tomorrow but fortunately the wine will last until theyrsquore ready

Charcoal-grilled prime cutsHand-muddled caipirinhas50+ salad bar optionsThree distinct private rooms

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3

Features22 En garde

A beginnerrsquos guide to knives and knife-related implements and the three mainstay knives that every layman cook should have in the kitchen by Anna Brooks

Departments

VOLUME 4 ISSUE 10 APRIL 2016

10 35

16

16 Going to MarketFrom Primal Grounds Cappuccino Bar ndash to Primal Soup Co ndash to both Primal Soup and Primal Grounds pioneer Margaret Nemeth has found her homeby Elizabeth Chorney-Booth

25 Times Are A ChangingWith the current economic downturn many bricks and mortar restaurants are getting creative with ways to fully utilise their kitchens by Linda Garson

34 The Iconic Old Fashionedhellip that has stood the test of time by Brice Peressini

20 California CoolThe new frontiers by Peter Vetsch

On the Cover

Many thanks to Ingrid Kuenzel for unending patience ideas and photography and to Chef Daniel

Pizarro and Avec Bistro for the mise the knife and the knife skills

12

42 Open That BottleKaren Kho of Teatro Group by Linda Garson

6 Salutes and Shout Outs

8 Book Review

10 Off The Menu ndash Unarsquos Kale Caesar Salad

12 Chefsrsquo Tips ndash and Tricks

18 Soup Kitchen

28 Step-By-Step Nutella

32 Spice It Up Cheesecake

38 Odds and Ends Brothhellip by saving those scraps by Dan Clapson

30 Citrus Beer FriendsFour Alberta-made citrusy beers by David Nuttall

40 Making the Casefor Argentine winesby Tom Firth

35 Shoulder Season WinesWines for cool weather by Jaclyn Adomeit

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an

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authenticThe way it should beauthenticThe way it should beExperience the bold flavours and original taste of Churrasco an authentic barbecue style made famous by Gauchos - the cowboys of South America

100 5920 Macleod Trail SWphone4034549119

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C A NMOR E 629 Main Streetphone4036789886

w w w b r a z i l i a n b b q c a

Letter From The Editor

Welcome to Aprilrsquos Culinaire magazine the last issue before our 4th birthday

Itrsquos definitely an interesting time for the food and beverage scene in Calgary Increasing rents property taxes rising produce prices and potential wage increases are all taking their toll on our

vibrant restaurant scene Rumours abound of restaurant closures in the industry but also new innovative ideas for keeping kitchens fully employed ndash the clever money is on more take-outs from established restaurants and in particular from those you expect least

Nary a new restaurant has opened in the last year without some form of take-out window or program and wersquore looking at the latest innovative offerings to see how you can benefit from these ideas Yoursquoll see in our round up of new openings in our Shout-Outs how this is a recurring theme

April brings us plenty to celebrate ndash of course we have our 2nd annual Treasure Hunt to look forward to on April 9th This was one of our biggest events last year - we were trending on Twitter - and we canrsquot wait for the even bigger and better-organised Treasure Hunt this year I hope yoursquove already registered as we have a

finite cut-off for participants and like last year everyone goes home a multiple winner having experienced one of the most memorable days in Calgary Take no prisoners

Our other big news is that with this issue of Culinaire we are expanding into Canmore and Banff and are readily available in both towns Wersquore pleased and proud to sponsor Canmorersquos Uncorked Wine Festival on April 16 itrsquos a sell-out event so I hope you already have your tickets

Itrsquos also International Malbec Day on April 17 and the Californian Wine Fair on April 26th Canadarsquos largest wine tasting tour of Californian Wines and we have you covered for both in this monthrsquos issue But our REALLY big news will be revealed next month ndash watch this space for more details

CheersLinda Garson Editor-in-Chief

All Trademarks presented in this magazine are owned by the registered owner All advertisements appearing in this magazine are the sole responsibility of the person business or corporation advertising their product or service For more information on Culinaire Magazinersquos Privacy Policy and Intention of Use please see our website at wwwculinairemagazineca All content photographs and articles appearing in this magazine are represented by the contributor as original content and the contributor will hold Culinaire Magazine harmless against any and all damages that may arise from their contribution All public correspondence which may include but is not limited to letters e-mail images and contact information received by Culinaire Magazine becomes the property of Culinaire Magazine and is subject to publication Culinaire Magazine may not be held responsible for the safety or return of any unsolicited manuscripts photographs and other materials Reproduction of this publication in whole or in part without written consent from Culinaire Magazine is strictly prohibited

Editor-in-ChiefPublisher

Commercial Director

Edmonton Sales Director

Contributing Food Editor

Contributing Drinks Editor

Digital Media Editor

Contributing Photographer

Design

Contributors

Linda Garsonlindaculinairemagazineca

Keiron Gallagher403-975-7177salesculinairemagazineca Lisa Wolansky587-338-8780 lisaculinairemagazineca

Dan Clapsondanculinairemagazineca

Tom Firth tomculinairemagazineca Anna Brooks webculinairemagazineca

Ingrid Kuenzel

Emily Vance

Jaclyn AdomeitAnna BrooksElizabeth Chorney-BoothNatalie FindlayRenee KohlmanRobyn MacleanKaren MillerDiana NgDavid NuttallBrice PeressiniPeter Vetsch

To read about our talented team of contributors please visit us online at

culinairemagazineca

infoculinairemagazinecawwwfacebookcomCulinaireMagazine

Twitter culinairemagInstagram culinairemag

For subscriptions competitions and to read Culinaire online

culinairemagazineca

Our Contributors

lt Peter VetschPeter is a local lawyer by day and wine writer by night pursuing his vinous passion by maintaining his own wine blog at popandpourca He has earned his formal wine accreditation through

the Wine amp Spirits Education Trust (WSET) where he obtained both Intermediate and Advanced Certificates with Distinction and he is always on the lookout for the next way to learn about and experience wine (and the next good bottle to try)

lt Anna BrooksAnna Brooks is Culinairersquos new digital media editor A Mount Royal journalism graduate stories have pulled her overseas to pursue international work in India Africa and

Thailand She has been published locally in Metro FreeFall and BeatRoute magazine She likes magical realism wine and English cocker spaniels (well just one English cocker spaniel) Follow her on Twitter Anna_Brooksie

lt Brice Peressini Brice Peressini has turned his passion for food drink and travel into his profession When not writing about the culinary arts he can be found mixing drinks at Chefbar or

visiting one of his favourite bars or restaurants His favourite cocktails are Old Fashioneds Manhattans and Negronis His favourite pastime is converting people to whisk(e)y

C A L G A R Y F O O D amp D R I N K R E C I P E S

Contact us atCulinaire Magazine

1203 804 -3rd Avenue SWCalgary AB T2P 0G9

403-870-9802

6

Salutes

and Shout Outs

Club for Carnivores

A subscription to the Carnivore Club will see a box of 4-6 cured or smoked meats with a combined weight of 1frac12-2 pounds arrive on your doorstep each month The club finds sources and features Canadian artisans who make premium charcuterie from ethically raised animals Some items will be traditional alongside more unusual items ndash think water buffalo and cranberry salami Each box comes with a handbook that describes that monthrsquos featured artisan explains what each meat is and sometimes includes pairing suggestions $50 a month includes the price of shipping and supports local family farms ndash and itrsquos all Fair Trade too they make sure the artisans are paid fairly for their quality meats We approve Check out carnivoreclubco

Hats off to Village Brewery

hellip who have teamed up with nano brewery The Dandy Brewing Company to launch the first annual Village Friend a 10 ABV Baltic Porter with deep and rich flavours of molasses and liquorice The collaboration will see part of the proceeds from this ale go to buying new pumps for Dandy a huge upgrade for the brewers ldquoThings are going well for us and we want to do our part to support Calgaryrsquos rising breweriesrdquo says Village

Breweryrsquos Jim Button We just love the concept ndash itrsquos soooo Calgary

Congrats to SAIT Team

hellip for their Meyer Lemon Mousse winner of the 2016 Pastry Chef Showcase Peoplersquos Choice Award for favourite plated dessert and to Bishwa Pati the Calgary Petroleum Club and the Delta Lodge at Kananaskis who won the Chocolate Showpiece Peoplersquos Choice Awards The event was an all-

round success raising funds for LrsquoArche Calgary and scholarships for SAIT Baking and Pastry Arts students Great job all

The Unicorn returns

After closing 11 months ago to make way for Quebec fashion retailer Simons The Unicorn Pub is back in business with its staff and many of its regular customers just half a block away from its original premises After nearly 36 years this Calgary icon has joined forces with Below Deck Tavern and the Libertine to become a three-storey superpub but still staying true to its cheerful friendly and value-driven lsquoeverybodyrsquo pub roots Welcome back

Cluck and Cleaver are open

This long-anticipated chicken takeout spot is finally open next to Boydrsquos on 14th Street SW in a stand-alone building with parking behind ndash and theyrsquore busy But we know why ndash sisters Nicole and Francine Gomes having been toying with the concept for 10 years ndash and

theyrsquove got it right Choose either super-crunchy Southern Fried or juicy Classic Rotisserie chicken by the piece or box and add a side of smoky chipotle lime corn and bean salad or creamy potato egg salad crunchy coleslaw and delicious baby roast potatoes that have soaked up all the juices from cooking with the chicken in the rotisserie Hand-cut fries fluffy buttermilk biscuits and gravy and homemade cookies are all on offer too ndash and all at great prices Yes itrsquos definitely the year for tasty take-outs

New Back Bar at Alloy

My how time flies ndash Alloy restaurant have occupied their beautiful BonnybrookManchester location for eight years and have just renovated the rear dining room and bar area to become The Back Bar by Alloy Now you can reserve a place at the bar or in one of the comfy booths for a casual drink before or after your meal Bar manager and mixologist Jake Hewitt is putting his spin on classic cocktails and chefowner Rogelio Herrera has created a very tasty snack menu of predictably delicious tempura shrimp tacos beef tartare nachos tender pork belly sliders crunchy nuts with togarashi and lime - and more

Cluck and Cleaver

INTRODUCING

A Farmerrsquos Wine

Every great wine tells a storyThis one starts with a farmer

10 Foot Henryrsquos back where he belongs

- on the ground floor of the Eagle Block where he spent 19 years upstairs in the Night Gallery 10 Foot Henry is the brainchild of Aja Lapointe and Steve Smee lately of Ox amp Angela and Una and a welcome addition to Victoria Park Veggies are the star here with meat as the supporting act theyrsquore serving up casual and creative lsquoNew North Americanrsquo comfort-food dishes - the way the couple eat at home Grab a friend and share a few plates of mash with goat yogurt ver jus and a fried egg - a sublime combination or nibble some mushroom and kale tempura with two dipping sauces or fresh and comforting roasted carrots and avocado with pistachio gremolata Bread is by Sidewalk Citizen and pasta is from Mercato and all desserts are made in house Wash it down with wine from the eclectic list or one of five organic and Fair Trade coffees from Calgaryrsquos original roaster ndash The Roasterie or one of six loose-leaf teas from the Naked Leaf See you there

Eagle Block

8

Book Review

Karen Miller is a lawyer by trade giving her a knack for picking apart a cookbook She has taught many styles of cooking classes and was part of the Calgary Dishing girls

Lick Your Plateby Julie Albert and Lisa GnatAppetite by Random House 2016 $32

by KAREN MILLER

The Bite Me Bite Me Too sisters are back this time thankfully with a little less gimmick Their cooking was always good and their passion for sharing always evident but it seems they have become more confident in their cooking

Lick Your Plate is a cookbook a lot of us will want on our kitchen shelf a compilation of recognizable recipes for family meals and entertaining alike The sisters have still managed to convey their effervescent style but the focus is on easy recipes anyone can do These girls are happy in the kitchen

It would be hard not to find some old favourites or a style of cuisine you want to try The recipes are not ldquoauthenticrdquo

but they work - they are quick and will satisfy your cravings Very few recipes have preparation times in excess of 15 minutes and the ingredients are easily found in our pantry They incorporate many styles from fast stir fries to slow cooker meals healthy grains a full range of vegetables dishes (yes including

Brussels sprouts and kale) and tempting desserts (try the Golden Apple Crisp with Salted Caramel Sauce on p 275)

The sisters have made an absolutely respectable version of a traditional Moroccan soup (Moroccan Chickpea amp Lemon Couscous Soup p 36) and who would not want to try their version of sticky buns (Luscious Lemon Sticky Buns p 243)

The cookbook still has a good sense of humour with catchy chapter titles and scattered quotes which will bring a smile to your face and do what they are intended to do - take the pressure off Enjoying the cooking process is what this cookbook is about making it easy and good enough to lick your plate

C u l i n a i r e rsquo s 2 n d A n n u a l T r e a s u r e H u n t i s S a t u r d a y A p r i l 9 t h

You may see yourself on television too this year mdash definitely another day to remember

culinairemag CulinaireMagazine culinairemag culinairemagazineca

Wersquore beyond excited for another amazing day of foodies in Calgary racing round the city to find out what treats await at over 30 destinations ndash the vast majority of which are new for 2016

Everyone went home a winner at our first annual Culinaire Treasure Hunt last year ndash and some were multiple winners We were completely sold out and it was so popular that we were trending on Twitter

Trivia questions about the participating restaurants markets and stores revealed the answers for where to dash off to receive your treat get your passport stamped and probably come away with a little culinary gift too

And there are fabulous prizes for the people who visit the most locations wear the best costumes have the funniest team names tweet the funniest photoshellip and lots lots more

This year is going to be an even more fun and rewarding day - we hope you and a partner have signed up as a team of two and registered to join us or signed up solo

Visit culinairemagazinecacontests follow us on Twitter culinairemag for the latest details and like us on facebook at facebookcomCulinaireMagazine to keep up with the news

DISCOVERCALIFORNIA WINES

ThIS IS A FuNDRAISER bENEFITINg CALgARy OpERA

calgaryoperacomwinefair

TuESDAy ApRIL 26 2016700 pm ndash 930 pm pALOmINO ROOm bmO CENTRE AT STAmpEDE pARk

$75 gST INCLuDED

FESTIVAL DES VINS

WINE FAIR

QuEbEacuteC CITy mONTREacuteAL OTTAWA TORONTO VANCOuVER CALgARy EDmONTON hALIFAX

The largest tasting tour of California wines in CanadaAlso includes a silent auction of wines not available in Canada

In todayrsquos busy world you may not get a chance to pick up

every issue of Culinaire To ensure

your copy go to culinairemagazineca to have the next ten issues delivered right

to your door

Order today mdash 10 issues for $39+gst

We Deliver

14 Ways to Spice Up Grilled Cheese | Beyond YYC Maui | Sunday Suppers

C A L G A R Y F O O D amp D R I N K R E C I P E S V O L U M E 4 N O 8 J A N U A R Y F E B R U A R Y 2 0 1 6

FOOD TRENDS FOR 2016

20+ AWARD-WINNING

TOP VALUE WINES

Beyond YYC Canmore amp Banff | Grab-and-Go | Absinthe The Green Fairy

C A L G A R Y F O O D amp D R I N K R E C I P E S V O L U M E 4 N O 9 M A R C H 2 0 1 6

RAISE A GLASS

TO WOMEN BEHIND THE BAR

AMAZING COCKTAILS TO MAKE AT HOME

For Foodies amp Beverage Lovers

10

A sure-fire favourite dish at Una Pizza + Wine Kale Caesar Salad is much requested It has all the elements of a perfect salad crunchy prosciutto and breadcrumbs and chewy kale leaves and egg for texture with grated cheese and a creamy plate-licking dressing to pull it all together Many thanks to Una Executive Chef Jen Pena for sharing it with us

Unarsquos Kale Caesar SaladServes 4

Salad2 Tbs (30 mL) olive oil plus more if needed4 thin slices prosciutto juliennedfrac12 cup panko breadcrumbsMaldon salt and black pepper2 bunches kale leaves only julienned1 cup grated Pecorino cheese2 hard boiled eggs peeled and halved (optional)

Caesar Dressing1 clove garlic4 anchovy fillets1 Tbs (15 mL) Dijon mustardZest and juice of 1 lemonfrac12 cup (120 mL) olive oil

1 Using a fork crush garlic and anchovies against the inside of a large bowl Add mustard lemon juice zest and olive oil and whisk until well emulsified Pour the dressing into a glass jar and set aside

2 Line a plate with paper towels Heat olive oil in a medium frying pan on high Add prosciutto and pan-fry until crispy about 5 minutes Transfer to the paper towel-lined plate and set aside

3 Reduce the heat to low and add panko crumbs to the pan adding a little oil if required Toast until golden about 2 minutes Scrape the panko into a small bowl season to taste with salt and set aside

4 Place kale in a large bowl pour in the dressing and toss well Season with salt and black pepper Transfer to a serving

bowl and top with grated Pecorino cheese toasted panko and crispy prosciutto Serve with the boiled eggs if desired

If therersquos a dish in a restaurant that yoursquod love to know how to make let us know at culinairemagazinecacontact-us and wersquoll do our very best to track it down for you

Off The Menu

culinairemagazinecaaba sponsors

Registrations are arriving already With the success of last yearrsquos competition

2016 will be an even greater competition this year Visit culinairemagazinecaaba

to enter your wines beers and spirits for the 2016 Alberta Beverage Awards

Have You Entered Your Wine Beers And Spirits Yet

For more information contact competition director Tom Firth tomculinairemagazineca

Registration Deadline July 1 | Judging Takes Place July 18-19-20

12

Tricks Chefs Tipsstory by ROBYN MACLEAN photography by INGRID KUENZEL Knives

The most important tool in any kitchen without a doubt is a good knife As Iron Chef Masahari Morimoto would say ldquoa kitchen without a knife is not a kitchenrdquo

I couldnrsquot agree more

For professional cooks knives are practically an extension of their hands and probably better cared for But a quality knife is just as essential for home cooks If yoursquore even slightly inclined to cook at home at the very least you should own a classic 20 cm chefrsquos knife ndash the go-to knife for the brunt of daily kitchen tasks

But itrsquos certainly not the only knife you should have in your arsenal Slicing dicing filleting butchering and julienning become a whole lot easier when you use the right knife for the job and these three Calgary chefs share their favourite model and a recipe to help point you in the right direction

䈀甀礀 琀栀攀 琀漀瀀 栀愀氀昀 漀昀 愀渀礀 戀漀琀琀氀攀 漀昀 眀椀渀攀 戀攀琀眀攀攀渀 瀀洀ⴀ㘀瀀洀 愀渀搀 最攀琀 琀栀攀 戀漀琀琀漀洀 琀栀攀 昀甀渀 栀愀氀昀⤀ 昀漀爀 䘀刀䔀䔀

䘀刀

䔀䔀

䴀伀一䐀䄀夀 ⴀ 䘀刀䤀䐀䄀夀 瀀洀 ⴀ㘀瀀洀

瀀爀椀挀攀 戀漀琀琀氀攀猀 漀昀 眀椀渀攀㔀 戀漀琀琀氀攀猀 漀昀 戀攀攀爀㔀 栀椀最栀戀愀氀氀猀

䠀䄀䰀䘀 䘀刀䔀䔀 圀䤀一䔀

㔀 㔀 Ⰰ 㠀 䄀 瘀 攀 匀 圀 Ⰰ 䌀 愀 氀 最 愀 爀 礀 Ⰰ 䄀 䈀 吀 倀 䜀

Pacific Albacore Tuna CrudoServes 4

335 g Pacific albacore tuna 1 honey crisp or granny smith apple 4 cloves of garlic thinly sliced frac12 tsp ground espelette chili frac14 cup (60 mL) sunflower oil frac14 cup (60 mL) flax oil 1 Tbs lightly toasted flax seed 8 pickled string beans (keep some pickling liquid)4 slices of prosciutto 1 Tbs (1 mL) rice vinegar Pea shoots Good quality finishing salt like fleur de sel

1 Slice garlic as thinly as possible and combine with sunflower oil in a small saucepan Heat slowly and allow the garlic to fry until golden brown Remove from heat and add the ground espelette chili

2 Allow the oil to steep for 15-20 minutes at room temperature Once cool add flax oil

Chef Matthias Fong

3 Slice 8 pickled string beans thinly into rounds

4 Dice the apple into 1 cm cubes and add a splash of the pickled string bean liquid as well as rice vinegar add to the sliced string beans

5 Set up 4 plates Slice the tuna into frac34 cm thick slices and lay out 85 g per plate Using the finishing salt season the tuna to taste

6 Pull the prosciutto slices apart into bite-sized pieces and scatter them with the tuna slices

7 Drizzle 1 Tbs (15 mL) flax oil over each plate with a few slices of the fried garlic from the oil on each plate

8 Scatter the apple and string bean mixture over the slices of tuna being sure to spoon some of the pickling liquid from the bowl over the tuna slices Finish with pea shoot tips and toasted flax seed

Chef Matthias FongRiver Cafeacute

A good quality knife is made from high quality steel usually German or Japanese which will stay sharp for a long period of time and has the potential to last a lifetime

Owning a stainless steel knife versus one made from high carbon steel is also extremely beneficial in any kitchen Itrsquos easy for a knife to end up in the sink which can leave non-stainless varieties rusted and ruined

ldquoRegardless of style or brand itrsquos never safe to let knives go dull Dull knives lead to excessive force and can easily slip off the product yoursquore cuttingrdquo cautions Fong

ldquoTo properly care for a knife I recommend investing in some sharpening stone andor a ceramic honing rod which prolongs the life of your knife and requires less sharpening I also suggest signing up for a class to learn the art of sharpening or just take your knives directly to the folks at Knifewear and theyrsquoll gladly maintain for yourdquo

ldquoMy go-to knife is the Tojiro Flash 825-inch slicer Itrsquos short in length making it versatile for a variety of uses I use it for the majority of my prep work but itrsquos ideal for slicing and carving The narrow blade allows for paper thin slicing on delicate fish like tunardquo says Fong

ldquoI favour the Tojiro line of knives because they offer stainless Japanese steel thatrsquos easy to sharpen and repairrdquo

14

Chef Kai SalimaumlkiThe Block

Chef Salimaumlki is all about a great multipurpose knife ldquoI love the Masakage Kumo Petty 150 mm knife Itrsquos ideal for numerous tasks in the kitchen but I especially love it for chopping fine herbs Itrsquos lightweight and has a remarkably sharp edge that has chives bouncing from under it in perfect uniform circlesrdquo he explains

The Petty knife is ideal for smaller jobs such as slicing shallots cutting herbs and boning smaller proteins And because of its size itrsquos also a great alternative for those who feel uncomfortable wielding a larger heavier chefrsquos knife

ldquoI would recommend this knife for the home cook as it can replace many utility knives people seem to collect in drawers And of course most importantly I recommend proper love attention and care to ensure you keep this tool functioning for a very long timerdquo

You simply canrsquot do your best without your equipment at its best

Chef Jorel ZielkeBrasserie Kensington and Winebar

ldquoIrsquom a huge fan of my 10frac34-inch MAC chefrsquos knife This multipurpose knife is modeled after the standard French chefrsquos kniferdquo says Zielke

Sirloin Beef TartareServes 2

335 g AAA beef sirloin2 Tbs (30 mL) grainy mustard cup minced shallots Tbs minced gherkins2 Tbs cup finely chopped parsley Worcestershire sauce to tasteHot sauce to tasteCold pressed canola oil to taste 1 egg yolk in tact with all whites removedPinch of fresh grated horseradishSalt and pepper

1 Finely dice the sirloin removing any connective tissue or silver-skin Do not trim off the fat Pass over the meat several times with your knife

2 Mix in mustard shallots gherkins parsley Worcestershire hot sauce oil and salt and pepper

3 Note All garnish measurements are suggestions as tartares vary to personal taste Add enough oil to moisten dish but be careful not to oversaturate

4 Top tartare with raw egg yolk and freshly grated horseradish

5 Serve with anything you can pick it up with such as crostini crackers fresh bread fresh heirloom tomato or crisp lettuce

ldquoI canrsquot emphasize enough the importance of respecting your tools by keeping them clean and properly functioning to avoid safety issues You simply canrsquot do your best without your equipment at its bestrdquo

ldquoA sharp knife is key when dicing raw meat like in my recipe belowrdquo he continues ldquoKeep in mind that itrsquos not firm like an onion or a stick of celery Meat shifts and moves as you prepare it so itrsquos important to slow down and take your time when preparing a dish like tartarerdquo

Chef Jorel Zielke

Chef Kai Salimaumlki

15

Robyn is a public relations professional and occasional writer with a passion for food and beverages Despite city hopping from her home in Calgary to Anchorage AK you can still find her on Twitter robynalana

Braised Brisket with Carrot Puree and Napa Cabbage Serves 4

900 ndash 1125 g brisket5 carrots peeled and sliced 12-16 baby potatoes 1 head of Napa cabbage julienned5 parsnips peeled and sliced 2 tomatoes quartered2 yellow onions quartered1 yellow onion thinly sliced6 sprigs of thyme4 sprigs of rosemary 6 whole cloves of garlic3-4 Tbs butter1 Tbs black peppercornsCanola oil4 cups (1 L) beef stock or water1 cup (240 mL) of milkHoney to tasteSalt and pepper 1 Season brisket liberally with salt and pepper (you can braise whole or cut it into smaller chunks)

2 In a large sauteacute pan heat canola oil until it has reached its smoking point Sear the meat on all sides until golden brown and caramelized

3 Remove from pan and place in a large ovenproof baking dish covering with beef stock (or water) Add peppercorns two sprigs of rosemary 4 sprigs of thyme whole garlic tomatoes and the quartered onions

4 Cover with tin foil and braise for approximately for 3-3frac12 hours at 325ordm F or until fork tender

5 Remove from the braising juices spoon off any excess fat and strain juices into a saucepot reduce on a medium heat until a nice thick sauce has formed

6 For carrot puree add two tablespoons of butter in a heavy bottomed saucepan and sauteacute sliced onion and diced carrots together over medium heat Yoursquore not looking to brown the vegetables but rather simmer in the butter

7 After 10 minutes cover the mixture with milk add 2 sprigs of thyme and season with salt Simmer until soft and tender

8 Strain the carrots and reserve the milk throw out the thyme sprigs Place the carrots and onions in a blender and slowly add the milk until a nice puree is achieved check seasoning and thickness and adjust if necessary Set aside 9 Sauteacute julienned cabbage in a tablespoon of butter season with salt and add 2 tablespoons of water Reduce heat and cook for 5 minutes stirring frequently

ldquoI recommend proper love attention and care to ensure you keep this tool functioning for a

very long timerdquo

10 Toss sliced carrots and parsnips with honey chopped rosemary and thyme season with salt and pepper and roast in the oven for an hour at 325ordm F or until tender 11 Boil the baby potatoes in heavily salted water until fork tender

12 To serve set up 4 plates and spoon carrot puree on the bottom of the plate in a circle Arrange potatoes carrots and parsnips around the plate place Napa cabbage in the middle and place brisket on top Spoon the reduced braising liquid over the meat

16

As Nemeth chats with customers other vendors and friends who stop by her enthusiastic greetings and joyous laughter are hard to ignore mdash this is a woman who clearly likes people In fact she loves them Warm hearty and full of surprises the words used to describe Nemethrsquos personality can just as easily be used to describe her soup

The Primal Soup Co is a fairly new entity mdash the frozen containers of soup with flavours like Mango Butternut Squash Spinach Artichoke and Feta and Thai Coconut Chicken first showed up at the Market on MacLeod (then the

Going To MarketPrimal Soup Company Finds Its Homeby ELIZABETH CHORNEY-BOOTH photography by INGRID KUENZEL

If you happen to spy Margaret Nemeth at one of her Primal Soup Company booths at the Crossroads Market or the Market on MacLeod yoursquoll immediately see that the energetic atmosphere of a Farmersrsquo Market suits her

Kingsland Farmersrsquo Market) in 2011 mdash but Nemeth is not new to the food and beverage game

Long-time Calgarians may recognize the Primal name and the taste of Nemethrsquos homemade soups from the now defunct Primal Grounds Cappuccino Bar and Eatery in Killarney which Nemeth owned and ran from 1996 through to 2010

Nemeth opened that business after a career in oil and gas and the stand-alone cafeacute was a solid success for her Not only did it serve up great coffee Nemeth quickly made a name for herself with her homemade soup creations All homemade and gluten-free (due to Nemethrsquos own dietary restrictions) Primal Grounds was catering to people with gluten intolerances long before it became fashionable

ldquoWe were pioneers and it was so much funrdquo Nemeth says ldquoThere were lots of ups and downs but it was a good liferdquo

ldquoWhen yoursquore in a market you have to give people reasons to stoprdquo

Margaret Nemeth

17

Nemeth sold the cafeacute when a real estate developer made her an offer she couldnrsquot refuse but she still felt the urge to be around people and feed them So she set up shop in the markets - first the Market on MacLeod and then in January of 2015 she opened a stall in the rebranded Crossroads Market

Elizabeth Chorney-Booth is a Calgary-based writer and co-founderco-editor of RollingSpooncom and Wapawekkacom She enjoys exploring the connection between music and food through interviews with musicians and chefs

Primal Soup also sells lunch items like gourmet macaroni and cheese sandwiches and homemade pies and pastries so that market wanderers can stop by the stall and grab a full lunch while perusing the soup cooler for something to take home for a future meal

ldquoWhen yoursquore in a market you have to give people reasons to stoprdquo Nemeth says ldquoSo we offer things to go with the soup which also gives them ideas for what they can do at home Or sometimes theyrsquoll come for a sandwich and then theyrsquoll look at the soups You have to give people reasons to be in this spacerdquo

ldquoWe were pioneers and it was so much funrdquo

Whatever Nemeth is doing it seems to be working Between the two farmersrsquo markets and specialty retailers like the Market on 17th Sunnyside Market and SPUD delivery boxes Primal Soup Co sells over 1000 containers of soup every week Nemeth develops the recipes herself but has hired a full-time chef to keep up with the demand Personality and strategic stall locations in busy farmersrsquo markets alone isnrsquot enough to move that kind of volume of soup mdash while Nemeth has made smart business decisions over the course of Primalrsquos various incarnations the key to her success really lies in the product itself Everything is made from scratch without the aid of pre-bought soup bases and Nemeth uses seasonal ingredients (only 20 to 30 of her 50 soup varieties are ever available at any given time) supporting her neighbours at the markets when possible Her meat stocks are built from organic chicken bones Wintersrsquo turkey carcasses and duck bones from fellow market vendor Green Eggs and Ham to build a rich and delicious broth ldquoI layer my soupsrdquo Nemeth says ldquoI donrsquot just throw everything in the pot together And there has to be a twist in every one There has to be something

that you donrsquot expect mdash a surprise in every boxrdquo

To bring things full circle Nemeth has a new venture that just opened kitty corner to her Primal Soup stall in the Crossroads Market a beautiful and shiny new Primal Grounds coffee location With a long counter for people to sit at for as long as they like (Nemeth jokes that itrsquos the perfect place for bored spouses to sit while their partners shop the market) itrsquos an updated nod to what got Primal Soup started in the first place

And itrsquos also a testament to Nemethrsquos dedication to market life mdash the lack of control she has over her own hours and some other aspects arenrsquot perfect but the busyness the proximity to like-minded vendors and most of all the people she gets to interact with on a constant basis has put Nemeth exactly where she belongs ldquoYoursquore only as strong as the market is collectivelyrdquo she says ldquoItrsquos different than being a restaurant but I have to say itrsquos the funnest thing Irsquove ever donerdquo

ldquoThere has to be something that you donrsquot

expect mdash a surprise in every boxrdquo

18

Soup Kitchenstory and photography by DAN CLAPSON

The fresh hang-up-your-winter-jacket feeling is finally in the air ndash and that my friends is a wonderful thing Gone are the days where wersquove looked forward to spooning into a big bowl of creamy soup or sitting down to some chicken noodle soup to help shake off the winter sniffles These days Irsquom more concerned with light and bright flavours and less calorie-ridden meals

so I wonrsquot look completely undesirable in a swimsuit come June

Here are two great recipes that just happen to be vegan but are bursting with flavour

Serves 5 Total cook time 35 minutes

6 cups (15 L) vegetable broth1 cup (240 mL) white wine1 cup (240 mL) water2 Tbs (30 mL) tomato paste2 cups dry green lentils1 red onion halved and thinly sliced1 small fennel bulb halved and thinly sliced2 tsp (10 mL) maple syrup1 tsp dried oreganofrac12 tsp ground turmericfrac12 tsp chili flakesfrac12 tsp ground cinnamon1 pinch nutmeg2 cups thinly sliced red Swiss chardTo taste salt and pepper

1 Place broth wine water and tomato paste in a large pot and bring to a simmer on medium-high heat Add lentils and cook for 15 minutes

2 Add onion fennel maple syrup and spices and continue to cook for 15 minutes

Spiced Green Lentil and Chard Soup

3 Add Swiss chard and cook until leaves are tender about 2-3 minutes Season to taste with salt and pepper and serve

Dan Clapson is a freelance food writer and columnist in Calgary When hersquos not writing about Canadarsquos amazing culinary scene he is likely listening to 80s rock or 90s boy bands Follow him on twitter dansgoodside

Spinach and Cashew Soup with Poblano and Scallion Salsa

Serves 4 Total cook time 30 minutes not including cashew soak time

Soup1frac12 cups roasted cashews2 cups (500 mL) water4 cups (1 L) vegetable broth4 cups cooked spinach1 Tbs (15 mL) apple cider vinegar1 Tbs (15 mL) maple syrupfrac12 tsp cayenne peppersalt and pepper to tastecashew butter for garnish optional

1 Place cashews and water in a container cover and let sit on counter overnight

2 Combine cashews water and remaining soup ingredients in a blender and pureacutee until very smooth

3 Pour contents of blender through a fine mesh strainer into a medium pot Bring to a simmer on medium-high heat and cook for 15 minutes Season to taste with salt and pepper and keep warm on stove until ready to serve

4 Place a couple of spoonfuls of the salsa into each bowl and ladle soup around it Add a couple of dollops of cashew butter for a little extra richness

Salsa1 large poblano pepper halved and seeds removed1 bunch scallions2 Tbs (30 mL) canola oil2 Tbs fresh mint roughly chopped1 tsp (5 mL) lemon juicefrac12 tsp cane sugarfrac12 tsp chili flakessalt and pepper to taste

1 Preheat oven to 400ordm F

2 Place poblano halves and scallions on a baking sheet drizzle with oil and roast until slightly charred about 15-18 minutes

3 Remove from oven allow to cool slightly then give them a rough chop

4 Add to a bowl with remaining ingredients and toss to combine Season liberally with salt and pepper

20

Photograph courtesy California Wine Institute

Ever since Napa Valley cabernet sauvignons and chardonnays bested their more historic counterparts from Bordeaux and Burgundy in the now-famous Judgment of Paris tasting in 1976 California and its flagship region have carried the torch for the bold dense fruity lushly oaked wines that brought them worldwide fame

Forty years later this sun-drenched style of wines remains both unapologetically enjoyable and wildly popular and Napa is on the bucket list of any devoted wine tourist But as tastes and trends start to evolve away from a focus on power and concentration towards greater elegance and food-friendliness winemakers in California are again taking to the frontier gravitating towards the statersquos physical and climatic extremes to explore new boundaries of flavour and complexity Californiarsquos cooler corners

California Coolby PETER VETSCH

California is a land of frontiers dangling on the edge of the Pacific home of the Gold Rush and epicentre of the New Worldrsquos insurgence onto the global wine scene

are fast becoming its second face in the world of wine

Sonoma County north of San Francisco and just west of Napa is probably Californiarsquos second best-known region almost equally recognized for its cabernets chardonnays and zinfandels The largest subregion in the county taking up almost a third of its total area is the western Sonoma Coast too expansive at 500000 acres to have a distinct identity

However the western border of this appellation a razorrsquos edge straddling the ocean locally known as the ldquotruerdquo Sonoma Coast showcases the regionrsquos true character - extreme viticulture wet cool and always windy at elevations up to 2000 feet balanced on the San Andreas Fault with many vines growing above the fog line and constantly exposed to the throes of the Pacific Pinot noir takes on a unique expression here on low-yielding vines in the cool above the rest of Sonoma offering both remarkable purity of fruit and astonishing acidity and structure

Pinot is also predominant in the relatively new Santa Rita Hills subregion of the Santa Ynez Valley located an hour and a half northwest of Los Angeles and similarly perched right alongside the ocean The maritime influence dominates the microclimate and counteracts the California sun with fog and cool breezes to the point where this coastal spot becomes a near ideal substitute for chilly Burgundy Here the core Burgundian varietals of pinot noir and chardonnay thrive in a particularly striking edgy way

Santa Ynez is the only wine region in the western hemisphere where the arearsquos defining mountain range runs east-west instead of north-south creating a sort of maritime wind tunnel that sucks cold Pacific air eastward This leads to some of the largest diurnal (day to night) temperature shifts in North America and allows inland grapes ripening in the scorching daytime heat to recharge and maintain acidity at night This special geological feature allows a wide range of reds in Santa Ynez to be juicy but still structured bold yet balanced from cabernet and merlot to syrah and grenache

Halfway between the Sonoma Coast to the north and the Santa Rita Hills to the south along yet another coastline

California can comfortably both provide continuity

and defy stereotype

Wine Picks

Peter is a local lawyer by day and wine writer by night maintaining his own wine blog at popandpourca He is always on the lookout for the next way to experience wine and the next good bottle to try

A LITTLE SIBLING RIVALRY NEVER HURT ANYBODY

FOUR SETTINGS ONE PHILOSOPHY crmrcom338 - 17th Avenue SW

c i l a n t ro

747 Lake Bonavista Dr SE113 - 8th Avenue SW 340 - 17th Avenue SW

Sequoia Grove 2012 Cabernet Sauvignon (Napa Valley)Textbook cabernet from Naparsquos heart of Rutherford with deep black fruit mint and cedarhellip and a survivable price tag CSPC +740382 $56

Hartford Court Landrsquos Edge Vineyard Pinot Noir (Sonoma Coast)The ferocity of the Sonoma Coast somehow creates the picture of elegance in this juicy yet delicate pinot CSPC +717210 $60

Domaine de la Cote 2013 Pinot Noir (Sta Rita Hills) Seriously pushes the boundaries picked almost insanely early for low-alcohol herbal pomegranate and rhubarb acidic tension and energy CSPC +761893 $58

Alice May Crosswinds Syrah (Santa Ynez Valley) A syrahviognier Cote Rotie-style co-ferment that matches Cali ripeness with surprising verve and delicacy CSPC +761131 $28

Ridge 2013 Geyserville (Santa Cruz Mountains)This will change your expectations of zinfandel A zin-heavy field blend it combines the best of its mountain altitude and the California sun CSPC +426379 $55

just south of San Jose the wineries of the Santa Cruz Mountains prove again that those seeking to make modern moderate wines in California head both west and up The highest vineyards in Santa Cruz despite being just miles from the ocean are at 2600 feet this significant altitude and the cool Pacific climate results in chiseled wines with controlled ripeness and serious staying power

The region is both expansive and miniscule with only 1500 of its 480000 acres currently planted to grapes and its very-California plantings (cabernet chardonnay pinot noir zinfandel and merlot) all take on an Old World character and rusticity from its rugged terrain and stony mineral-laden soils Despite the challenges associated with growing grapes on a cool rock face Santa Cruz is a state leader in sustainable growing practices

The friendly sunny face of California wine is surely here to stay but Santa Cruz Santa Ynez and the Sonoma Coast are permanent proof that the state is readily capable of more than one expression With its range of climate and terrain California can comfortably both provide continuity and defy stereotype

22

En GardeA Beginnerrsquos Guide To Knives And Their Usesby ANNA BROOKS

Itrsquos difficult to imagine that sharp little number thatrsquos slicing away to the rhythm of your favourite cooking music (or to the beating of child-size fists hungry for dinner) was more often used for combat not chopping carrots

Despite King Louis XIVrsquos decree that the tips of knives be ground down to reduce violence in the mid-1600s kitchen knives still (for quite pointed reasons) make popular murder weapons

But we wonrsquot get into grisly stories of guts and gore here Whether yoursquore a chef extraordinaire or the person whose knife knowledge goes as far as cutting

vegetables with a steak knife there are some things everyone should know about knives

The first major thing we must insist upon is putting down that expensive 14-piece knife set As most knife experts can attest to three main knives can cover almost all the work that a layman cook needs to do in the kitchen

23

Three main knives can cover almost all the work that a layman cook needs

to do in the kitchen

Chefrsquos Knife Your standard knife for mincing and slicing vegetables and meat a chefrsquos knife is typically 20-25 cm long but can range all the way up to 36 cm

Luke Pickett from Knifewear is a sight to see wielding some wickedly sharp

handcrafted Japanese models but despite their carnivorous look Pickett said therersquos really nothing to fear

ldquoThere are a lot of people who are scared of really large knivesrdquo Pickett said ldquoBut having good quality kitchen equipment will make your life easierrdquo

For beginners a standard 20 cm chefrsquos knife (although Pickett said blade length is purely based on personal preference) is best to start with but a Japanese Santoku knife mdash an elegant slightly smaller version of a chefrsquos knife mdash will certainly get the job er meal done

Paring KnifeOn the other side of the knife spectrum is the pocket-sized paring knife (note carrying knives in pockets not recommended)

Regan Johnson assistant manager at The Cookbook Co said besides what the individual using a steak knife to cut everything might think the small intricate work required of a paring knife (such as peeling and trimming) should not be done on a cutting board

ldquoParing is anything you can be doing in the air mdash yoursquore not ever supposed to use a paring knife on a boardrdquo she explained

Johnson added that for someone like herself who does almost as much blade-wielding as a samurai she also recommends a utility knife

which is a hybrid of a chefrsquos knife and a paring knife

ldquoI reach for my utility knife a lotrdquo she said ldquoItrsquos got that shape of a paring knife but is longer Itrsquos just for those things in between that you donrsquot need your giant chefrsquos knife forrdquo

Bread KnifeThe last of the big three is of course a bread knife Have you ever tried to cut a loaf of bread with a straight blade Not so easy (or safe) a task

Itrsquos sometimes difficult to do but no matter the type of knife yoursquore using itrsquos important to try and slice as opposed to chopping or sawing It

is quite tempting (and often seems easier) to saw away at the crispy crust of a floured loaf of sourdough but Knifewearrsquos Pickett said sawing can

be a slippery slope to your bread knifersquos grave

ldquoIf you slice you can use the entire blade and itrsquos a lot sharper along the edgerdquo he explained ldquoItrsquos important to get a good bread knife because you canrsquot sharpen them like you can any other sort of kniferdquo

The Big Three

24

Having good quality kitchen equipment will

make your life easier

Anna Brooks is an award-winning journalist from Calgary Alberta She has worked internationally in Thailand and Africa and has been published in Metro BeatRoute Magazine and the Calgary Journal She also enjoys animal rights fantasy fiction and whiskey sours

Tips and TricksOf course you can adorn your kitchen with the countless others belonging to the knife family mdash cleavers carvers boning knives cheese knives etc mdash but if yoursquore not planning on hacking through solid bone anytime soon you probably donrsquot need to spend $200 on a meat cleaver

But there are some other knife-related implements that are important to have in your kitchen

First off a proper cutting board While plastic cutting boards are versatile and can be chucked in the dishwasher wood is really the best way to go Cutting boards are the quickest way to ruin a knife so steer clear of fancy-looking glass or granite boards mdash they are the antagonists of our story

Itrsquos also not a bad idea to have a knife honer on hand As a reminder (or for

those who had no idea what that random rod in the kitchen was used for) honers are for honing not sharpening

ldquoWith use the metal fibres in a knife edge can get bent to one side or another All yoursquore doing with honing is straightening those fibres back outrdquo Johnson from The Cookbook Co explained ldquoSharpening means yoursquore actually removing material and grinding the metal down to a finer edgerdquo

Johnson added that while you can sharpen at home she always recommends getting your knives sharpened professionally at least once a year depending on how much theyare used

Before you go back to making your lazy-day grilled cheese sandwich or that complex stew yoursquove spent hours on we just want to remind you of whatrsquos called ldquothe pinch griprdquo

Not to sound snobbish but grabbing a knife by the handle and hacking away is poor form Use your thumb and index finger to grasp the blade and then wrap your remaining fingers under the bolster of the knife Shape your other hand into a claw to protect your fingertips from accidentally getting lopped off firmly grasp the object to be cut and slice away

If this knowledge was present in the 17th century perhaps old King Louis XIV would be tipping his crown to more cooks not kitchen knife combatants

25

Times Are A Changing Unexpected Take-Outs

by LINDA GARSON and DIANA NG photography by INGRID KUENZEL

Therersquos no denying that many of our cityrsquos restaurants are feeling the effects of the current economic downturn fewer people working downtown ndash indeed fewer people working altogether and so looking to save money by eating out less means many bricks and mortar restaurants are having to get creative with ways to fully utilise their kitchens and staff

High rents exacerbate the situation so itrsquos time for Calgary restaurateurs to think outside the box and proving to be the innovative entrepreneurs that wersquore known for many are diversifying their offerings to include take-out options both raw and cooked

Catch amp The Oyster Bar launched their ldquoBuy Catchrdquo program where you can pick up fresh Ocean Wise seafood to take home and cook (complete with recipes) along with house-made clam chowder and sauces nearly two years ago There are big savings to be had over dining in with no costs for linen or staff and no expectation to tip

Here are four Calgary eateries also getting clever with take-out

programs that are not widely publicised - and may

open a few eyes

26

Centini Restaurant

Itrsquos not a cookie cutter program but the magic of Centinirsquos take-out is that you can ask the kitchen for ideas of what you should have for dinner People even text the servers for suggestions and to order Loyal customers mostly busy businessmen were asking if they catered but without the staff for such a service Centini started offering to prepare dishes for them to cook themselves

Now you can get your favourite restaurant dishes from rack of lamb with red wine demi-glace AAA Alberta beef tenderloin with Gorgonzola pan sauce and sea bass with ginger cream sauce ready to cook at home ldquoWersquore not going to open a bricks and mortar restaurant down south but our food is going thererdquo says Chevonne Centini Theyrsquore seeing pick-ups such as for people stuck at home with a new baby and even 40 people for a funeral

Boxwood

Itrsquos hard to believe that the quality of food coming from the sister restaurant to River Cafe can be had at home and we are not talking about leftovers When

People take home uncooked homemade pasta with sauce separately and even bread dough and often freeze it to cook later or pick up on a Friday evening so everything is prepared ready for Saturday dinner When buying from a restaurant yoursquore getting top quality perfectly trimmed meat everything is done for you - therersquos no shopping

around and even the parsley is chopped And as everything is custom-made all allergies are catered for too

Centini gets fish delivered once or twice every day and it may come as a surprise but with a chef garde manger that spent 15 years in Japan they have customers coming just to take out sushi

you go home to an empty fridge it feels like the only options you have are fast food or pizza Not so

Boxwoodrsquos fresh and seasonal fare is also available to take home While you wonrsquot

be able to enjoy the quaint atmosphere of the restaurant you can order anything on the menu for take out with its special offering being the whole rotisserie free-range chicken which serves two to four people for $40

Many bricks and mortar restaurants are

having to get creative with ways to fully utilise their

kitchens and staff

You will need to call a few hours ahead (the website states before 200 pm) for enough notice for the chicken but for the rest of the selection like its soups and sandwiches you can simply look up the menu online and call to place an order For a perfect night in may we suggest starting with its bison tartare then moving onto the porchetta and another main before finishing off the meal with a slice of pie

27

Gaucho

For most people the elaborate setup of Brazilian barbecue is one of its biggest attractions You may not know this and while you may not be able to take home the lively decor of Gaucho you can actually take the meal home

The spit packed tightly with freshly roasted meats the sign at the table that signals yoursquore ready for more and the roasted and caramelized pineapple that tops off the meal all contribute to the atmosphere but if all you want are the meats and sides for a hefty dinner you can certainly order the meal as a take-out

Order any of the four options (top sirloin pork loin chicken wings or mild sausage) and add three sides from the list of eight which includes a variety of salads black bean stew and rice And because you canrsquot just have one kind of meat when it comes to Brazilian barbecue you can choose additional

Safari Grill

The marinated thinly sliced BBQ short beef ribs at Safari Grill are already a must-have for those in the know but we suspect even regulars will be surprised to discover that you can pick

up uncooked ribs with your choice of seven marinades to take home and BBQ yourself

With none of the associated costs of dining in $65 buys you enough ribs for 10 people and customers actually drive

meats for $4 each Finally choose the sauce yoursquod like to accompany your meal Orders for over five people will come in a big white box and individual

orders come will in regular take-out containers For big parties do call a few hours ahead All you need to make at home is the caipirinha

from Saskatchewan to take away 10-15 lb bags of these uncooked marinated ribs Some people call and ask for them to be marinated and frozen in 5 lb bags to enjoy later as just 5-7 minutes each side on a high flame has the raw ribs ready to eat

And itrsquos not only ribs that people BBQ at home Mishkaki are skewers of marinated chicken beef and prawns and for as little as $3 each you can have a very inexpensive BBQ feast Marinated raw lamb chops are also available or ask for Samaki - a marinated whole tilapia that comes with a basting sauce to brush on You can even get uncooked samosas to cook in your oven at home

All Safari Grillrsquos regular menu can be ordered for take-out but there is no published price list for uncooked dishes so people call to order and ask - but when yoursquore picking up look out for the new jars of house-made mango and lemon pickles

28

Step By Step Go Nuts With Homemade Nutella And Waffles story and photography by NATALIE FINDLAY

There are many nutritional benefits packed into these small filberts They are rich in dietary fibre packed with folate an excellent source of vitamin E and contain mono-unsaturated fatty acids that

can help lower bad cholesterol and raise good cholesterol By making your own Nutella at home you can control the amount of sugar that is added making this delicious spread basicallyhellip a health food

Hazelnuts have a tried and true following for taking the lead role in the chocolate spread Nutella This long-standing love affair has lasted simply because they add a distinct but subtle flavour to the chocolate Truly a match that is better together than apart

These delicious and super-easy waffles make a great base for your homemade Nutella With the addition of ground hazelnuts to the batter you can deepen the hazelnut flavour and pack in more health benefits

Waffles with raspberries and white chocolate spread

29

Natalie is a freelance writer photographer and pastry chef A graduate of Cordon Bleursquos pastry program she manages her own business too to create custom-made cakes

Using the same waffle recipe from above and switching out the mashed banana and adding frac12 a medium orange ndash juice and zest ndash to the batter you have a delicious orange waffle that will highlight the white chocolate hazelnut spread recipe below

Homemade White Chocolate Hazelnut Spread Makes 1frac12 cups

1frac12 cups (200 g) whole hazelnutsfrac12 cup (70 g) icing sugar2 Tbs (30 mL) canola oil1 tsp (5 mL) vanilla extract1 cup (250g) white chocolate

Follow directions for Homemade Nutella and add the melted white chocolate at the end Pulse to combine

Macerated Raspberries with Orange Serves 6

250 g fresh raspberriesfrac12 medium orange zest and juice1 Tbs icing sugarfrac12 tsp vanilla extract

Add all ingredients into a medium bowl and stir to combine Let sit for about 1 hour

Serve your warm waffles topped with your white chocolate homemade hazelnut spread macerated berries and a dollop of whipped cream or ice cream

Note Homemade Nutella has more texture than store bought and will last around 1 month in the fridge Waffles can be made ahead and frozen Thaw and reheat in the waffle maker or the oven

Banana Fruit compoteMakes enough for 6

3 ripe bananas peeled sliced into rounds2 Tbs (30 g) butter2 Tbs (30 g) brown sugar1frac12 tsp (8 mL) vanilla extract1frac12 tsp (8 mL) bourbon

1 Add butter and sugar to a sauteacute pan over medium heat As they melt stir to combine

2 Add vanilla and bourbon than add sliced bananas and sauteacute until warmed through

Serve your warm waffles topped with your homemade hazelnut spread sauteacuteed bananas and a dollop of whipped cream or ice cream

Homemade Nutella Makes 1frac12 cups

1frac12 cups (200 g) whole hazelnutsfrac34 cup (100g) icing sugar3 Tbs (45 mL) canola oilfrac14 cup (30 g) cocoa powder1 tsp (5 mL) vanilla extract

1 Toast hazelnuts on a baking pan in a preheated 350ordm F oven for 10 - 15 minutes Keep an eye on them to make sure they donrsquot start to burn Remove from oven and let cool to the touch

2 Wrap the nuts in a kitchen towel and rub together to remove the skins This should remove most of the skins

3 Place skinless hazelnuts in a food processor on high Process the nuts until they form a smooth paste and the oils start to separate (about 5 minutes) scraping the bowl often

4 Add the icing sugar cocoa powder vanilla and canola oil to the food processor and process until fully incorporated scraping bowl of processor as needed (about 2 minutes)

Hazelnut Banana WafflesMakes 6

frac12 cup (80 g) all purpose flour1 tsp baking powderfrac12 tsp baking sodaPinch sea salt1 Tbs (15 g) icing sugar1 Tbs (10 g) ground hazelnuts6 grates whole nutmeg1 tsp ground cinnamonfrac12 cup (125 mL) buttermilk1 egg yolk2 Tbs (30 g) butter meltedfrac12 small banana peeled and mashed1 egg white

1 Sift together all dry ingredients (except the ground hazelnuts) in a medium bowl Add the ground hazelnuts and combine

2 Mash the half banana in a small bowl with a fork Add the egg buttermilk and melted butter

3 Whisk the egg white to stiff peaks

4 Whisk the wet ingredients into the dry and fold the egg white into the mixture

5 Follow the directions for your waffle pan to cook waffles for around 5 minutes or until cooked through

Note Remember to bring the waffle pan up to temperature in between each batch of waffles

Hazelnut Banana Waffles with Nutella

30

Citrus Beer Friendsby DAVID NUTTALL

This is when the taste andor aroma of a beer can remind the drinker of anything from an orange drink or lemonade to grapefruit soda There are several ways to achieve this character and these beers are becoming more and more popular every day

Hops provide the bitterness in beer and out of the literally hundreds of varieties a few impart citrus notes into the aroma and flavour Cascade and Citra are examples of two of the most popular hops used in several styles of beer most notably the American IPA or India Pale Ale Cascade hops have been around for over 40 years and it is the single most popular hop used by the American craft brewing industry It provides a floralspicy character often reminiscent of grapefruit

Citrarsquos name leaves no guessing as to its attributes A relative newcomer this cross breed of UK German and US hop varieties has been around for less than a decade but it is already an extremely popular hop for imparting

One of the great things about beer is its diversity It can come in a myriad of colours and also a wide variety of flavours citrus being one of the most distinct

Dave Nuttall has been in the liquor and event business forever He is a qualified beer judge and ownerpresident of Epicurean Calgary at epicureancalgarycom for ten years

citrus and tropical fruit characteristics to a beer

It has proven very versatile and appears in several beer styles from session ales to IPAs It has also become a favourite hop to use for dry-hopping (adding hops late into the boil) due to the exceptional aromas it produces For even more flavour and aroma craft brewers now commonly enhance these already citrusy IPAs with actual zest peel or juice from citrus fruits to create an IPAFruit Beer hybrid which sells especially well in summer months

Then there is the yeast and many varieties of yeast can produce citrusy esters The unfiltered hefeweizens brewed on both sides of the Atlantic quite often have a lemony flavour Sour beers also showcase the yeast often cultured from Belgian strains

These beers are tart and produce a gamut of flavours many with citrus qualities and some have added fruit - the easiest and most obvious way to create a citrusy beer The Belgians also add different kinds of oranges with spice additions to their wheat ales to create wit beers now emulated all over the world with different citrus (and other) fruits involved in the recipe We also canrsquot forget the radlers which are simply a lager beer mixed with 40-60 fruit juice - often grapefruit or lemonade

Whether itrsquos added fruit the yeast the hops or a combination of all of them citrusy beers are commonplace now Thanks to new hops like Citra and the increasing popularity of wits and sours we can expect this trend to continue

Here are a few local beers with hints of citrus All are also available on tap

Beer comes in a myriad of colours and flavours citrus being one of the

most distinct

Ribstone Creek Great White CombineThis tiny Edgerton Alberta brewery has been knocking it out of the park lately Named after the ubiquitous Alberta summer hailstorm the use of Belgian yeast sweet orange peel and coriander give this beer an orange flavour in the beginning When the four different hop additions kick in it changes more to a sweet lemony flavour This White IPA has a very tropical feel that makes you forget it was made in northern Alberta CSPC +774162 $16 6-pack cans

Wild Rose Cowbell Sour ales are the new Belle of the Ball at craft breweries Often using imported Belgian yeast strains they are tart tangy and wellhellip sour Calgaryrsquos Wild Rose has taken this flavour profile and added kaffir lime leaves This makes the beer more like a refreshing limeade and is less bitter than many of its other sour counterparts CSPC +778093 $17 6-pack bottles

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VENUEBMO CENTRE STAMPEDE PARK

TICKETS AVAILABLE AT ALBERTABEERFESTIVALSCOM

MAY 6-7 2016FRIDAY3-10 PM BEER GEEK VIP4-10 PM GENERAL ADMISSION

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save 15USE PROMO CODE

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Citradelic Single Hop IPA Big Rock BreweryWith breweries in two (soon to be three) provinces Big Rock now has multiple locations to develop new beers This is the first one from their Vancouver brewery and is full of lemongrapefruit flavours and tropical aromas This beer showcases the Citra hop fooling one to think that citrus has been added when itrsquos all thanks to the hop CSPC +778593 $15 6-pack bottles

Alley Kat Main SqueezeWhat started out as a summer seasonal has now become a mainstay of this Edmonton brewery A North American style wheat ale with a 50 wheat and 50 barley mix it has added grapefruit juice but tastes more along the lines of pink grapefruit rather than its more bitter cousin CSPC +733630 $17 6-pack bottles

32

story by RENEE KOHLMAN

Cheesecake is one of those classic desserts that almost everyone loves unless of course you have a dairy allergy then yoursquoll stay far far away from it While it may seem too complicated to make at home I assure you that itrsquos not

Spice it up cheesecake

Sure there are a few steps involved but the key thing to remember is to have your eggs and cream cheese at room temperature For the best crack-free cheesecake itrsquos best to bake it in a water bath It yields a light creamy texture and is well worth the effort Cheesecake always tastes better the next day so bake it the day before you want to serve it Now that wersquove got the basics down itrsquos time to have a little fun with the crust filling and toppings

The Base

The classic graham cracker crust is fine but every now and again itrsquos great to switch things up Try

ndash Grinding up ginger cookies They work especially well for a pumpkin cheesecake

ndash Chocolate cookie crumbs are fantastic for caramel peanut butter and raspberry cheesecakes

ndash Add finely chopped nuts oats or seeds to the cookie crumbs for added texture and taste

The Middle

Therersquos something to be said for a straight up vanilla or chocolate cheesecake but with some fun add-ins they could take your cheesecake to the next level of deliciousness Try

ndash Swirling tahini dulce de leche salted caramel or chocolate fudge sauce into a creamy vanilla filling

ndash Mix in chopped chocolate peanut butter cups to a chocolate filling

ndash Drop fresh berries (raspberries blueberries blackberries) on top of a vanilla filling

ndash Stir in chopped candied ginger dried cherries or cranberries chopped toasted nuts to the filling

ndash Swap some of the cream cheese with ricotta mascarpone cheese or even strained cottage cheese

ndash You can never go wrong with lemon zest in a vanilla cheesecake

Have a little fun with the crust filling

and toppings

33

Apple Crumble CheesecakeMakes about 12-14 servings Total cook and prep time 3 hours (plus overnight chilling)

I love apple crisp and I love cheesecake This recipe is a fine marriage of both and makes a more than acceptable breakfast The base is a crumble of oats and flour the middle is classic cheesecake and itrsquos topped with cinnamon apples and a buttery oat streusel

Crust 2 cups large flake oats1 cup all purpose flour cup packed brown sugarfrac34 cup butter meltedfrac12 tsp salt

Cheesecake Layer3 - 225 g packages cream cheese at room temperature cup granulated sugar1 tsp (5 mL) vanilla3 large eggs at room temperature cup (80 mL) whipping cream

Apple Layer2 apples peeled cored and sliced about 3-4 mm thick1 tsp ground cinnamonfrac12 tsp salt

Streusel Layer1 cup large flake oatsfrac12 cup all-purpose flourfrac12 cup brown sugarfrac12 cup butter softened1 tsp ground cinnamon

Preheat the oven to 375ordm F

1 Butter the bottom and sides of a 9-inch springform pan with sides that are at least 7 cm high Wrap the bottom of the pan in aluminum foil so it comes at least halfway up the sides

2 Combine the crust ingredients in a large bowl Press the crust evenly into the pan and place on a baking sheet Bake for 10 minutes Remove from oven and let it cool on a wire rack

3 Reduce heat to 325ordm F Put a kettle of water on to boil Have a large roasting pan close by

4 Using a stand mixer with a paddle attachment beat the cream cheese at medium speed for 4 minutes scraping down the sides once or twice until it is soft and creamy With the mixer still running add the sugar and beat for another 4 minutes scraping down the sides of the bowl at least twice Beat in the vanilla Add the eggs one at a time beating for 1 minute after each addition and scraping the bowl Reduce speed to low and add the whipping cream

5 Toss the sliced apples with the cinnamon and salt in a small bowl Combine all of the streusel ingredients in a medium bowl and mix well

6 Place the springform pan in the roasting pan Give the cheesecake batter a good stir and pour it on top of the crust Arrange the apples on top and sprinkle the streusel on top of the apples

7 Place in the oven on the middle rack and pour the hot water into the roasting pan so it comes halfway up the sides of the springform pan

8 Bake the cheesecake for 1frac12 hours Turn off the heat prop open the oven door and let the cheesecake hang inside for another hour

9 Carefully remove from the oven and take out the cheesecake from the hot water bath Remove the foil and let the cheesecake come to room temperature on a wire rack Cover the top lightly and refrigerate for at least 4 hours but overnight is best The next day remove the sides of the pan and serve the cake

Renee is a food writer and pastry chef living in beautiful Saskatoon Saskatchewan Her columns appear in The Saskatoon StarPhoenix and her desserts can be enjoyed at Riverside Country Club Also check out her blog wwwsweetsugarbeancom

The Toppings

Cheesecake with no fun toppings is like a salad with no dressing it just doesnrsquot reach its full flavour potential Try

ndash Salted caramel roasted strawberry sauce or warm chocolate sauce

ndash A rhubarbcardamom compote is divine on top of vanilla cheesecake kissed with a bit of lemon zest Cherry compote is divine with chocolate cheesecake

ndash Have a favourite jam Melt it down with a tiny bit of water and drizzle it on top of your favourite cheesecake

ndash Candied nuts and citrus rind chocolate shavings even crumbled cookies are a fun way to add texture to the cheesecake

ndash Never underestimate the power of fresh seasonal berries and a well-made cheesecakeMacerate them in a little sugar and minced mint or basil and they make a lovely topping Donrsquot forget the whipped cream

34

Think about that for a moment and let that sink in like a cherry in your drink

So how old is ice in bars Well thatrsquos a whole story on its own however the Old Fashioned has been talked about in one form or another since the beginning of the 19th Century The first appearance of this classic cocktail was in the Balance and Columbian Repository newspaper in 1806 as such ldquoA stimulating liquor composed of spirits of any kind sugar water and bittersrdquo

The Old FashionedAn Iconic Drink That Has Stood The Test Of Time

by BRICE PERESSINI

Sohelliphow old is the Old Fashioned The Old Fashioned is as old as ice in bars

When you follow these instructions and put this finely-crafted cocktail into your hand swirl around the ice gaze through the caramel-coloured liquid in the glass and contemplate all that has gone into it you can rest assured you are holding a drink that has delighted taste buds for generations The Old Fashioned however has not always been held in high regard There was a time not too long ago where this fine concoction was an unbalanced fruity watered-down pale imitation of itself More recently

there has been a renaissance involved with this invigorating intoxicant and you can and should expect a proper cocktail when it is ordered at a fine establishment

When this drink is properly prepared it should be in perfect balance (as any proper drink should be) The sweetness of the sugar should not cover the flavour of the bourbon and the bitters should add to not overpower the flavour of the whiskey When the Old Fashioned is well made it is as close to cocktail perfection as a sophisticated patron could expect

Befriend a bespoke barkeep at an upstanding establishment and you will be in trusted hands If you find yourself at home and wanting for a nightcap look no further than the Old Fashioned

Enjoy friends

Old Fashioned Recipe

2 oz Buffalo Trace Bourbon (or your personal favourite)4 dashes Angostura Aromatic Bitters1 raw sugar cube

Muddle the sugar and bitters together with a touch of warm water in a rocks glass Add the bourbon then add ice Stir and garnish with an orange peel and cherry (optional)

Brice is a competition cocktail bartender who plies his trade behind the wood at Chefbar Whisk(e)y is his poison Neat

35

Shoulder Season Wines

by JACLYN ADOMEIT

Wines For Cool Weather

Refreshing white wines match with sunny patios and hot days while bold tannic red wines earn their keep by a fireplace on a winter night Common sense But what about the shoulder season What if yoursquore eating sea bass on a rainy spring day Or sipping wine on a patio during an uncommonly warm April afternoon

Photograph courtesy Tom Firth

36

Wine not only pairs with food but with temperatures and seasons A bright sauvignon blanc can taste flat and acidic on a cold night at no fault of the wine or the drinker Some white wines are other-worldly at the vineyard tasting room in the summer but fall flat when you pull them out for dinner guests in the winter

The change in taste is likely due to a number of factors Anatomically it is your sinus cavities creating the change Higher atmospheric pressures allow your nose to pick out subtle aromas while lower pressures bring out a winersquos acidity and harsh tannins CO2 degasses from liquid at low pressure leaving wines dull and flat too

Serving temperature can greatly affect a winersquos aromatics white wines chilled to near-freezing have dull aromas (Tip allow the bottle a half hour on the counter before popping the cork This will allow the aromatics to warm up enhancing the flavour)

Lastly your own palate will be partial to different flavours depending on sun snow wind and sleet but as a rule of thumb higher alcohol white wines (approximately 13 percent or more) will warm the soul and pair best with cooler weather

Here are some wine selections to go for when it is not too hot and not too cold so you can choose a pairing thatrsquos just right

Fiano

Yoursquoll notice that many of the best white wines for cold weather are grown in hot places Hot climates mean a longer growing season more sugar which leads to higher alcohol and often more robust and tropical flavours All of this is true for fiano - seldom grown outside of Campania in southern Italy Fiano produces age-worthy wines which are rich nutty and delicious

Feudi Di San Gregorio 2014 Campania Fiano di Avellino Italy A beautiful floral bouquet with candied lemon followed by honey-coated hazelnuts on the palate Worth cellaring for a few seasons The perfect dance partner for poultry CSPC +708589 $33

Viognier

Viognier is a white varietal that is best consumed at slightly higher temperatures A chilly glass of viognier will leave you with acid maybe oak and not much else Allow it to warm and you may experience peach pear and toasted almond

Traditionally grown in the warm south of France viognier is often a higher alcohol white wine with rich tropical flavours The heat of the alcohol with tropical flavours and lower acid makes viognier the perfect wine to sip while watching a late spring snowfall

Paul Mas 2014 Languedoc-Roussillon Viognier France Brimming with apricot almond lemon and ripe peach Contains hints of warming oak Pair with something savoury baked brie or spinach-filled puff pastry CSPC + 740978 $17

Dry Roseacute

There is so much more to be had from roseacute than white zinfandel And no itrsquos not just a mix of red and white wine The best roseacute is made from red skinned grapes that only sit on their skins for up to a day and a half to borrow colour and flavour then are fermented and processed

Refined examples of roseacute wines are often dry and have deep aromas of red fruits mild tannins and are savoury instead of sweet The French and Spanish craft great examples of dry roseacutes that are either a single varietal or a blend of grapes such as mourvegravedre grenache syrah or tempranillo

Muga Roseacute 2014 Rioja Grenache Viura and Tempranillo Spain A tamed Rioja Orange blossom woven together with strawberry and a palate of cherry and savoury soft cheese Ideal for charcuterie CSPC + 710261 $16

Orange Wine

Never heard of orange wine A commercial demand for natural wines has fostered a resurgence in ancient wine making practices While roseacute wines are reds that have been produced using white wine making practices orange wines are created from white grapes submitted to maceration and allowed to sit on the skins before fermentation the same practice employed in red winemaking

Unlike any white you have tasted orange wines are full-bodied have mild tannins and deep flavours - the characteristics that allow red wines to bring warmth to cool nights A must try for any wine buff

Allow the bottle a half hour on the counter

before popping the cork

The Bicicleta wines are characterized by their fruity expression and for offering more than

the traditional strains a clear example of this range`s innovation style and creativity

Cono Sur Vineyards amp Winery ConoSurVineyards ConoSurWinesconosurcom

The brewhouse at Wild Rose

Jaclynrsquos first passion was winemaking Shersquos worked in vineyards cellars and restaurants Currently she is a writer who daylights as an environmental engineer She believes that a good life like a good wine is not complete without balance

Nichol 2013 Naramata Pinot Gris Canada A Canadian example of orange wine with backbone Flavours of caramel apple roast nuts orange rind and peach CSPC +504159 $31

Oaked chardonnay

In and out with popular palates oak and chardonnay have been partners for a long time Oak paired with chardonnay can bring out butter richness toasted vanilla tree fruit and in the best examples shimmering minerality That is because oak aging is often accompanied by a malolactic fermentation process that smooths out rigid acids into lactic acid - the acid found in milk

Chardonnay is a grape of many talents and encounters a great diversity of production styles It is oaked examples that pair best with pensive rainy days They are full-bodied warming and complex

Wente Morning Fog 2014 Livermore Valley (California) Chardonnay USA Half oak-aged and malolactic-fermented half crisp and fresh this chardonnay brings together green apple vanilla and toasted oak A friend to cream sauce and roast chicken CSPC +175430 $18

In a province of mutable weather let your wine choices be as varied as the ever changing winds Cheers and herersquos to refined full-bodied cool-weather wines

38

Once yoursquore done with your magazine cover shoot like we did this month or prepping for dinner and have all of those odds and ends just sitting on the cutting board - you know carrot ends onion skins tips of celery stalks you get the point - donrsquot toss lsquoem

Instead place them into a large ziploc bag and straight into the freezer After a couple of weeks yoursquoll likely have four full freezer bags of vegetable bits ready to be turned into broth and herersquos how you do it

Making a big batch of vegetable broth doesnrsquot always mean a trip to the grocery store All you need to do is save those scraps This is a handy trick I learned years ago courtesy of Bon Appetit

No-Waste Vegetable Broth

by DAN CLAPSON

Odds And Ends BrothYields 8 cups (2 L)

12 cups (3 L) water4 full ziploc bags of vegetable trimmings1 yellow onion quartered4 cloves garlicAromatics of choice (I usually toss a couple of rosemary and thyme sprigs in there)To taste Salt and pepper

1 Place all ingredients in a large pot and bring to a boil on medium-high heat

2 Reduce to medium heat and let simmer uncovered for 1frac12 hours

3 Strain season to taste with salt and pepper and use as desired

Full circlePizza amp Oyster Bar

933 17 Ave SW bull fullcirclepizzaca

buck-a-shuck oysters

$1 oysters every night

9 pm - close Sunday-thursday 11 pm - close friday amp saturday

40

Salentein 2012 Reserve Chardonnay Uco Valley Argentina

Very very enjoyable chardonnay blowing me away with complexity varietal character and fine balance between oak lees and fruit Toffee baked apple tangerine and a little almond on the nose lead into silkily textured wine in the mouth Top shelf chardonnay that might be great with lobster tails mussels or poultry Around $20 CSPC +779479

Rutini 2013 Cabernet Malbec Mendoza Argentina

An exceptionally well put together blend - if you want rich berry fruits lots of body but maybe not tons of varietal characters from the individual components Lifted and bright fruits make for a very enjoyable glass Simply perfect for your next barbecue a roast or just chilling out with friends and family $26-30 CSPC +776822

Vinecol 2014 Organic Malbec Mendoza Argentina Fair Trade organic and vegan along with a good price is it still good Piles of fresh fruits (think smashed raspberries) with plenty of spice and soft herb-leaf aromas There are plenty of malbec flavours on the palate too Good for any day of the week with just a little tension between fruit tannin and acid it might be best with pub style burgers pulled pork or sausages About $16 CSPC +755296

Argentina is so much more than malbec While such a noble grape has found its best home in the high altitude vineyards of Argentina there is a lot going on with other grapes as well

Making The Case For Argentina

by TOM FIRTH

This massive country nestled up against the Andes mountains has a range of growing conditions suited to a number of grapes From Salta in the north to Patagonia in the south plenty of interesting wines are available here - many reasonably priced and of excellent quality So yes there are some

malbecs on these pages but please do try some of the other grapes and blends coming from Argentina too

Be sure to crack open a bottle of malbec on ldquoWorld Malbec Dayrdquo April 17 - who knows it might be nice enough to barbecue too

Photograph courtesy Tom Firth

41

Manos Negras 2011 Stone Soil Select Mendoza Argentina Quite new to the market this is a pretty enjoyable version of Argentinarsquos flagship grape Loads of blue fruit and raspberries with spices galore and a little compost Rich flavours lead to a lengthy spicy finish Yes please Bring to a barbecue if you can $21 CSPC +630541

Zuccardi 2012 Zeta Mendoza Argentina

A malbec-cabernet sauvignon blend that is also a blend of two different Mendoza appellations La Consulta and Gualtallary Deep and abundant fruit aromas with liquorice root and a touch of blueberry preserves Excellent balance of flavours on the palate too with the right structure and tannin for aging if desired Enjoy with a prime rib or even meaty pasta dishes or game $50-52 CSPC +740270

Zuccardi 2012 ldquoEmmardquo Bonarda Mendoza Argentina

In my humble opinion one of the finest bonardas coming out of Argentina Notes of coffee bean and espresso complement cherry and blackberry fruits with healthy balanced tannins to stand up to the tart fruits Delicious for sure enjoy at your next barbecue $40 CSPC +758407

Luigi Bosca 2011 Cabernet-Malbec Mendoza Argentina

A wonderfully earthy and savoury blend with plenty of tobacco spice leather and yes lots of fruit too The earthy flavours work well with the big dark chocolate flavours and weighty tannins Drink now or through 2020 or so - with a steak naturally $22-24 CSPC +766010

Trivento 2013 Golden Reserve Malbec Lujan de Cuyo Argentina While there is a trend to see a lot of premium malbecs move away from oak presence this one is a bold smooth and delicious example that is seeing about a year of oak All those berry fruits plums and herb notes malbec is known for along with the smoothness that only oak brings Kick back relax maybe cook up some steaks - enjoy About $24 CSPC +711402

Trivento 2014 Malbec Reserve Mendoza Argentina Nearly unbeatable for good malbec at a great price itrsquos rich and chocolatey on the nose with big fruits and oak tones too Mild garrigue notes or dried herb flavours with plenty of fruit and tannins - still showing a fine sense of balance Enjoy with beef $14 CSPC +730714

Luigi Bosca 2011 De Sangre Mendoza Argentina A blend of cabernet sauvignon merlot and syrah that manages to pull out the best of each varietal Earthy and slightly smoky with good fruits and plenty of versatility Tannins are well-placed against the fruits with a long smooth finish Irsquove been a fan of this wine year after year Good to keep a couple on hand in the cellar About $29 CSPC +745106

Salentein 2012 Numina Gran Corte Uco Valley Argentina A malbec-dominated Bordeaux blend this stunner is all about ripe fruits cedar pepper cherries and plum with a little tealeaf and the right amount of tannins Very very well balanced and like any great wine think about some food to go with it Beef tenderloin slow cooked meats or maybe at your next asadohellip About $40 CSPC +764706

Colonia Las Liebres 2013 Bonarda Mendoza Argentina Bear with me here - a fine bonarda with plenty of earthy smoky aromas leading to rubber charred cherries and cocoa Some pretty prominent tannins to be found as well but wow does it all come together A wine that just begs for duck with cranberries or maybe some kebabshellip$20 CSPC +773381

42

Open That Bottleby LINDA GARSON photography by INGRID KUENZEL

ldquoIf you work in a place and yoursquore miserable I donrsquot know if there is a dollar amount that can be attached to that The work that yoursquore doing has to be rewarding and challengingrdquo says Karen KhoGrowing up in Niagara Falls in a Philippino SpanishChinese family Kho was surrounded by food and drinks with an open door policy that has had a huge influence on the person she is today - an

entertainer who likes to make people feel welcome ldquoMy parents wanted me to be a lawyer there was definitely an encouragement to use my voice for goodrdquo she explains ldquoAnd I still think I help people but in a different way a very social wayrdquo

Graduating Western University with a political science degree in 2000 Kho spent a year travelling and living in Australia before taking a leap of faith and moving to Calgary Here she studied wine with the International Sommeliers Guild and WSET but says her real education was a job she adored working in the wine trade at BIN 905 in tandem with running wine programs for CRMR restaurants It was only when the opportunity came to create the wine program at Vin Room six years later that Kho leapt at the challenge of a new idea for the city and spent four happy years there

Eventually she and her partner decided to stretch their wings and went to Vancouver where Kho embarked on a six-month culinary course at the Pacific Institute of Culinary Arts ticking off another box on her bucket list ldquoI wanted a greater understanding of technique in the kitchen and I wanted an understanding of what service on a very basic level would look like if I ever owned my own place and ever had to be the person who filled inrdquo she says ldquoI feel if I was ever in a place that needed someone to chop onions Irsquom your womanrdquo she laughs

A year later the pair came back with the idea of eventually opening their own business in Calgary ldquoThe support we get from this community is heartfelt and this is a city of opportunity People with the right concept are seeing a lot of great success itrsquos still our game planrdquo she says Meanwhile Kho applied only to Teatro where she is now Group Service Director

ldquoI wanted to work at a place that had a challenging wine program and had a level of service with high expectations and where professional service teams

applyrdquo she says ldquoItrsquos pretty romantic to work for a company that has been built on a foundation of service Successful businesses in the restaurant industry get the grand picture which is the moments that yoursquore creating for people and I like to be a part of thatrdquo she adds

So what bottle is Kho saving for a special occasion

Paying homage to her time at BIN 905 Kho explains ldquoI have a bottle of 1996 Chateau Mouton Rothschild which was given to me with some very kind words on my last day at BIN Irsquove always just appreciated my time there it was where I learned the vernacular of wine and itrsquos my first job where I really saw the benefits of serving people with intentionrdquo She continues ldquoI always see it thankfully as the stepping-stone to a broader wine profession and eventually to the position that I have now It was given to me by very close friends that Irsquom still friends with to this dayrdquo

And when is she planning to open the wine

ldquoWhen (partner) Dave and I open our own restaurantrdquo Kho says This isnrsquot something that something that will happen tomorrow but fortunately the wine will last until theyrsquore ready

Charcoal-grilled prime cutsHand-muddled caipirinhas50+ salad bar optionsThree distinct private rooms

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See this weekrsquos promotion

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Culinaire April 2016indd 2 2016-03-04 501 PM

3

Features22 En garde

A beginnerrsquos guide to knives and knife-related implements and the three mainstay knives that every layman cook should have in the kitchen by Anna Brooks

Departments

VOLUME 4 ISSUE 10 APRIL 2016

10 35

16

16 Going to MarketFrom Primal Grounds Cappuccino Bar ndash to Primal Soup Co ndash to both Primal Soup and Primal Grounds pioneer Margaret Nemeth has found her homeby Elizabeth Chorney-Booth

25 Times Are A ChangingWith the current economic downturn many bricks and mortar restaurants are getting creative with ways to fully utilise their kitchens by Linda Garson

34 The Iconic Old Fashionedhellip that has stood the test of time by Brice Peressini

20 California CoolThe new frontiers by Peter Vetsch

On the Cover

Many thanks to Ingrid Kuenzel for unending patience ideas and photography and to Chef Daniel

Pizarro and Avec Bistro for the mise the knife and the knife skills

12

42 Open That BottleKaren Kho of Teatro Group by Linda Garson

6 Salutes and Shout Outs

8 Book Review

10 Off The Menu ndash Unarsquos Kale Caesar Salad

12 Chefsrsquo Tips ndash and Tricks

18 Soup Kitchen

28 Step-By-Step Nutella

32 Spice It Up Cheesecake

38 Odds and Ends Brothhellip by saving those scraps by Dan Clapson

30 Citrus Beer FriendsFour Alberta-made citrusy beers by David Nuttall

40 Making the Casefor Argentine winesby Tom Firth

35 Shoulder Season WinesWines for cool weather by Jaclyn Adomeit

bra

zili

an

barb

ecu

e

authenticThe way it should beauthenticThe way it should beExperience the bold flavours and original taste of Churrasco an authentic barbecue style made famous by Gauchos - the cowboys of South America

100 5920 Macleod Trail SWphone4034549119

C A LGA RY

C A NMOR E 629 Main Streetphone4036789886

w w w b r a z i l i a n b b q c a

Letter From The Editor

Welcome to Aprilrsquos Culinaire magazine the last issue before our 4th birthday

Itrsquos definitely an interesting time for the food and beverage scene in Calgary Increasing rents property taxes rising produce prices and potential wage increases are all taking their toll on our

vibrant restaurant scene Rumours abound of restaurant closures in the industry but also new innovative ideas for keeping kitchens fully employed ndash the clever money is on more take-outs from established restaurants and in particular from those you expect least

Nary a new restaurant has opened in the last year without some form of take-out window or program and wersquore looking at the latest innovative offerings to see how you can benefit from these ideas Yoursquoll see in our round up of new openings in our Shout-Outs how this is a recurring theme

April brings us plenty to celebrate ndash of course we have our 2nd annual Treasure Hunt to look forward to on April 9th This was one of our biggest events last year - we were trending on Twitter - and we canrsquot wait for the even bigger and better-organised Treasure Hunt this year I hope yoursquove already registered as we have a

finite cut-off for participants and like last year everyone goes home a multiple winner having experienced one of the most memorable days in Calgary Take no prisoners

Our other big news is that with this issue of Culinaire we are expanding into Canmore and Banff and are readily available in both towns Wersquore pleased and proud to sponsor Canmorersquos Uncorked Wine Festival on April 16 itrsquos a sell-out event so I hope you already have your tickets

Itrsquos also International Malbec Day on April 17 and the Californian Wine Fair on April 26th Canadarsquos largest wine tasting tour of Californian Wines and we have you covered for both in this monthrsquos issue But our REALLY big news will be revealed next month ndash watch this space for more details

CheersLinda Garson Editor-in-Chief

All Trademarks presented in this magazine are owned by the registered owner All advertisements appearing in this magazine are the sole responsibility of the person business or corporation advertising their product or service For more information on Culinaire Magazinersquos Privacy Policy and Intention of Use please see our website at wwwculinairemagazineca All content photographs and articles appearing in this magazine are represented by the contributor as original content and the contributor will hold Culinaire Magazine harmless against any and all damages that may arise from their contribution All public correspondence which may include but is not limited to letters e-mail images and contact information received by Culinaire Magazine becomes the property of Culinaire Magazine and is subject to publication Culinaire Magazine may not be held responsible for the safety or return of any unsolicited manuscripts photographs and other materials Reproduction of this publication in whole or in part without written consent from Culinaire Magazine is strictly prohibited

Editor-in-ChiefPublisher

Commercial Director

Edmonton Sales Director

Contributing Food Editor

Contributing Drinks Editor

Digital Media Editor

Contributing Photographer

Design

Contributors

Linda Garsonlindaculinairemagazineca

Keiron Gallagher403-975-7177salesculinairemagazineca Lisa Wolansky587-338-8780 lisaculinairemagazineca

Dan Clapsondanculinairemagazineca

Tom Firth tomculinairemagazineca Anna Brooks webculinairemagazineca

Ingrid Kuenzel

Emily Vance

Jaclyn AdomeitAnna BrooksElizabeth Chorney-BoothNatalie FindlayRenee KohlmanRobyn MacleanKaren MillerDiana NgDavid NuttallBrice PeressiniPeter Vetsch

To read about our talented team of contributors please visit us online at

culinairemagazineca

infoculinairemagazinecawwwfacebookcomCulinaireMagazine

Twitter culinairemagInstagram culinairemag

For subscriptions competitions and to read Culinaire online

culinairemagazineca

Our Contributors

lt Peter VetschPeter is a local lawyer by day and wine writer by night pursuing his vinous passion by maintaining his own wine blog at popandpourca He has earned his formal wine accreditation through

the Wine amp Spirits Education Trust (WSET) where he obtained both Intermediate and Advanced Certificates with Distinction and he is always on the lookout for the next way to learn about and experience wine (and the next good bottle to try)

lt Anna BrooksAnna Brooks is Culinairersquos new digital media editor A Mount Royal journalism graduate stories have pulled her overseas to pursue international work in India Africa and

Thailand She has been published locally in Metro FreeFall and BeatRoute magazine She likes magical realism wine and English cocker spaniels (well just one English cocker spaniel) Follow her on Twitter Anna_Brooksie

lt Brice Peressini Brice Peressini has turned his passion for food drink and travel into his profession When not writing about the culinary arts he can be found mixing drinks at Chefbar or

visiting one of his favourite bars or restaurants His favourite cocktails are Old Fashioneds Manhattans and Negronis His favourite pastime is converting people to whisk(e)y

C A L G A R Y F O O D amp D R I N K R E C I P E S

Contact us atCulinaire Magazine

1203 804 -3rd Avenue SWCalgary AB T2P 0G9

403-870-9802

6

Salutes

and Shout Outs

Club for Carnivores

A subscription to the Carnivore Club will see a box of 4-6 cured or smoked meats with a combined weight of 1frac12-2 pounds arrive on your doorstep each month The club finds sources and features Canadian artisans who make premium charcuterie from ethically raised animals Some items will be traditional alongside more unusual items ndash think water buffalo and cranberry salami Each box comes with a handbook that describes that monthrsquos featured artisan explains what each meat is and sometimes includes pairing suggestions $50 a month includes the price of shipping and supports local family farms ndash and itrsquos all Fair Trade too they make sure the artisans are paid fairly for their quality meats We approve Check out carnivoreclubco

Hats off to Village Brewery

hellip who have teamed up with nano brewery The Dandy Brewing Company to launch the first annual Village Friend a 10 ABV Baltic Porter with deep and rich flavours of molasses and liquorice The collaboration will see part of the proceeds from this ale go to buying new pumps for Dandy a huge upgrade for the brewers ldquoThings are going well for us and we want to do our part to support Calgaryrsquos rising breweriesrdquo says Village

Breweryrsquos Jim Button We just love the concept ndash itrsquos soooo Calgary

Congrats to SAIT Team

hellip for their Meyer Lemon Mousse winner of the 2016 Pastry Chef Showcase Peoplersquos Choice Award for favourite plated dessert and to Bishwa Pati the Calgary Petroleum Club and the Delta Lodge at Kananaskis who won the Chocolate Showpiece Peoplersquos Choice Awards The event was an all-

round success raising funds for LrsquoArche Calgary and scholarships for SAIT Baking and Pastry Arts students Great job all

The Unicorn returns

After closing 11 months ago to make way for Quebec fashion retailer Simons The Unicorn Pub is back in business with its staff and many of its regular customers just half a block away from its original premises After nearly 36 years this Calgary icon has joined forces with Below Deck Tavern and the Libertine to become a three-storey superpub but still staying true to its cheerful friendly and value-driven lsquoeverybodyrsquo pub roots Welcome back

Cluck and Cleaver are open

This long-anticipated chicken takeout spot is finally open next to Boydrsquos on 14th Street SW in a stand-alone building with parking behind ndash and theyrsquore busy But we know why ndash sisters Nicole and Francine Gomes having been toying with the concept for 10 years ndash and

theyrsquove got it right Choose either super-crunchy Southern Fried or juicy Classic Rotisserie chicken by the piece or box and add a side of smoky chipotle lime corn and bean salad or creamy potato egg salad crunchy coleslaw and delicious baby roast potatoes that have soaked up all the juices from cooking with the chicken in the rotisserie Hand-cut fries fluffy buttermilk biscuits and gravy and homemade cookies are all on offer too ndash and all at great prices Yes itrsquos definitely the year for tasty take-outs

New Back Bar at Alloy

My how time flies ndash Alloy restaurant have occupied their beautiful BonnybrookManchester location for eight years and have just renovated the rear dining room and bar area to become The Back Bar by Alloy Now you can reserve a place at the bar or in one of the comfy booths for a casual drink before or after your meal Bar manager and mixologist Jake Hewitt is putting his spin on classic cocktails and chefowner Rogelio Herrera has created a very tasty snack menu of predictably delicious tempura shrimp tacos beef tartare nachos tender pork belly sliders crunchy nuts with togarashi and lime - and more

Cluck and Cleaver

INTRODUCING

A Farmerrsquos Wine

Every great wine tells a storyThis one starts with a farmer

10 Foot Henryrsquos back where he belongs

- on the ground floor of the Eagle Block where he spent 19 years upstairs in the Night Gallery 10 Foot Henry is the brainchild of Aja Lapointe and Steve Smee lately of Ox amp Angela and Una and a welcome addition to Victoria Park Veggies are the star here with meat as the supporting act theyrsquore serving up casual and creative lsquoNew North Americanrsquo comfort-food dishes - the way the couple eat at home Grab a friend and share a few plates of mash with goat yogurt ver jus and a fried egg - a sublime combination or nibble some mushroom and kale tempura with two dipping sauces or fresh and comforting roasted carrots and avocado with pistachio gremolata Bread is by Sidewalk Citizen and pasta is from Mercato and all desserts are made in house Wash it down with wine from the eclectic list or one of five organic and Fair Trade coffees from Calgaryrsquos original roaster ndash The Roasterie or one of six loose-leaf teas from the Naked Leaf See you there

Eagle Block

8

Book Review

Karen Miller is a lawyer by trade giving her a knack for picking apart a cookbook She has taught many styles of cooking classes and was part of the Calgary Dishing girls

Lick Your Plateby Julie Albert and Lisa GnatAppetite by Random House 2016 $32

by KAREN MILLER

The Bite Me Bite Me Too sisters are back this time thankfully with a little less gimmick Their cooking was always good and their passion for sharing always evident but it seems they have become more confident in their cooking

Lick Your Plate is a cookbook a lot of us will want on our kitchen shelf a compilation of recognizable recipes for family meals and entertaining alike The sisters have still managed to convey their effervescent style but the focus is on easy recipes anyone can do These girls are happy in the kitchen

It would be hard not to find some old favourites or a style of cuisine you want to try The recipes are not ldquoauthenticrdquo

but they work - they are quick and will satisfy your cravings Very few recipes have preparation times in excess of 15 minutes and the ingredients are easily found in our pantry They incorporate many styles from fast stir fries to slow cooker meals healthy grains a full range of vegetables dishes (yes including

Brussels sprouts and kale) and tempting desserts (try the Golden Apple Crisp with Salted Caramel Sauce on p 275)

The sisters have made an absolutely respectable version of a traditional Moroccan soup (Moroccan Chickpea amp Lemon Couscous Soup p 36) and who would not want to try their version of sticky buns (Luscious Lemon Sticky Buns p 243)

The cookbook still has a good sense of humour with catchy chapter titles and scattered quotes which will bring a smile to your face and do what they are intended to do - take the pressure off Enjoying the cooking process is what this cookbook is about making it easy and good enough to lick your plate

C u l i n a i r e rsquo s 2 n d A n n u a l T r e a s u r e H u n t i s S a t u r d a y A p r i l 9 t h

You may see yourself on television too this year mdash definitely another day to remember

culinairemag CulinaireMagazine culinairemag culinairemagazineca

Wersquore beyond excited for another amazing day of foodies in Calgary racing round the city to find out what treats await at over 30 destinations ndash the vast majority of which are new for 2016

Everyone went home a winner at our first annual Culinaire Treasure Hunt last year ndash and some were multiple winners We were completely sold out and it was so popular that we were trending on Twitter

Trivia questions about the participating restaurants markets and stores revealed the answers for where to dash off to receive your treat get your passport stamped and probably come away with a little culinary gift too

And there are fabulous prizes for the people who visit the most locations wear the best costumes have the funniest team names tweet the funniest photoshellip and lots lots more

This year is going to be an even more fun and rewarding day - we hope you and a partner have signed up as a team of two and registered to join us or signed up solo

Visit culinairemagazinecacontests follow us on Twitter culinairemag for the latest details and like us on facebook at facebookcomCulinaireMagazine to keep up with the news

DISCOVERCALIFORNIA WINES

ThIS IS A FuNDRAISER bENEFITINg CALgARy OpERA

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FESTIVAL DES VINS

WINE FAIR

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The largest tasting tour of California wines in CanadaAlso includes a silent auction of wines not available in Canada

In todayrsquos busy world you may not get a chance to pick up

every issue of Culinaire To ensure

your copy go to culinairemagazineca to have the next ten issues delivered right

to your door

Order today mdash 10 issues for $39+gst

We Deliver

14 Ways to Spice Up Grilled Cheese | Beyond YYC Maui | Sunday Suppers

C A L G A R Y F O O D amp D R I N K R E C I P E S V O L U M E 4 N O 8 J A N U A R Y F E B R U A R Y 2 0 1 6

FOOD TRENDS FOR 2016

20+ AWARD-WINNING

TOP VALUE WINES

Beyond YYC Canmore amp Banff | Grab-and-Go | Absinthe The Green Fairy

C A L G A R Y F O O D amp D R I N K R E C I P E S V O L U M E 4 N O 9 M A R C H 2 0 1 6

RAISE A GLASS

TO WOMEN BEHIND THE BAR

AMAZING COCKTAILS TO MAKE AT HOME

For Foodies amp Beverage Lovers

10

A sure-fire favourite dish at Una Pizza + Wine Kale Caesar Salad is much requested It has all the elements of a perfect salad crunchy prosciutto and breadcrumbs and chewy kale leaves and egg for texture with grated cheese and a creamy plate-licking dressing to pull it all together Many thanks to Una Executive Chef Jen Pena for sharing it with us

Unarsquos Kale Caesar SaladServes 4

Salad2 Tbs (30 mL) olive oil plus more if needed4 thin slices prosciutto juliennedfrac12 cup panko breadcrumbsMaldon salt and black pepper2 bunches kale leaves only julienned1 cup grated Pecorino cheese2 hard boiled eggs peeled and halved (optional)

Caesar Dressing1 clove garlic4 anchovy fillets1 Tbs (15 mL) Dijon mustardZest and juice of 1 lemonfrac12 cup (120 mL) olive oil

1 Using a fork crush garlic and anchovies against the inside of a large bowl Add mustard lemon juice zest and olive oil and whisk until well emulsified Pour the dressing into a glass jar and set aside

2 Line a plate with paper towels Heat olive oil in a medium frying pan on high Add prosciutto and pan-fry until crispy about 5 minutes Transfer to the paper towel-lined plate and set aside

3 Reduce the heat to low and add panko crumbs to the pan adding a little oil if required Toast until golden about 2 minutes Scrape the panko into a small bowl season to taste with salt and set aside

4 Place kale in a large bowl pour in the dressing and toss well Season with salt and black pepper Transfer to a serving

bowl and top with grated Pecorino cheese toasted panko and crispy prosciutto Serve with the boiled eggs if desired

If therersquos a dish in a restaurant that yoursquod love to know how to make let us know at culinairemagazinecacontact-us and wersquoll do our very best to track it down for you

Off The Menu

culinairemagazinecaaba sponsors

Registrations are arriving already With the success of last yearrsquos competition

2016 will be an even greater competition this year Visit culinairemagazinecaaba

to enter your wines beers and spirits for the 2016 Alberta Beverage Awards

Have You Entered Your Wine Beers And Spirits Yet

For more information contact competition director Tom Firth tomculinairemagazineca

Registration Deadline July 1 | Judging Takes Place July 18-19-20

12

Tricks Chefs Tipsstory by ROBYN MACLEAN photography by INGRID KUENZEL Knives

The most important tool in any kitchen without a doubt is a good knife As Iron Chef Masahari Morimoto would say ldquoa kitchen without a knife is not a kitchenrdquo

I couldnrsquot agree more

For professional cooks knives are practically an extension of their hands and probably better cared for But a quality knife is just as essential for home cooks If yoursquore even slightly inclined to cook at home at the very least you should own a classic 20 cm chefrsquos knife ndash the go-to knife for the brunt of daily kitchen tasks

But itrsquos certainly not the only knife you should have in your arsenal Slicing dicing filleting butchering and julienning become a whole lot easier when you use the right knife for the job and these three Calgary chefs share their favourite model and a recipe to help point you in the right direction

䈀甀礀 琀栀攀 琀漀瀀 栀愀氀昀 漀昀 愀渀礀 戀漀琀琀氀攀 漀昀 眀椀渀攀 戀攀琀眀攀攀渀 瀀洀ⴀ㘀瀀洀 愀渀搀 最攀琀 琀栀攀 戀漀琀琀漀洀 琀栀攀 昀甀渀 栀愀氀昀⤀ 昀漀爀 䘀刀䔀䔀

䘀刀

䔀䔀

䴀伀一䐀䄀夀 ⴀ 䘀刀䤀䐀䄀夀 瀀洀 ⴀ㘀瀀洀

瀀爀椀挀攀 戀漀琀琀氀攀猀 漀昀 眀椀渀攀㔀 戀漀琀琀氀攀猀 漀昀 戀攀攀爀㔀 栀椀最栀戀愀氀氀猀

䠀䄀䰀䘀 䘀刀䔀䔀 圀䤀一䔀

㔀 㔀 Ⰰ 㠀 䄀 瘀 攀 匀 圀 Ⰰ 䌀 愀 氀 最 愀 爀 礀 Ⰰ 䄀 䈀 吀 倀 䜀

Pacific Albacore Tuna CrudoServes 4

335 g Pacific albacore tuna 1 honey crisp or granny smith apple 4 cloves of garlic thinly sliced frac12 tsp ground espelette chili frac14 cup (60 mL) sunflower oil frac14 cup (60 mL) flax oil 1 Tbs lightly toasted flax seed 8 pickled string beans (keep some pickling liquid)4 slices of prosciutto 1 Tbs (1 mL) rice vinegar Pea shoots Good quality finishing salt like fleur de sel

1 Slice garlic as thinly as possible and combine with sunflower oil in a small saucepan Heat slowly and allow the garlic to fry until golden brown Remove from heat and add the ground espelette chili

2 Allow the oil to steep for 15-20 minutes at room temperature Once cool add flax oil

Chef Matthias Fong

3 Slice 8 pickled string beans thinly into rounds

4 Dice the apple into 1 cm cubes and add a splash of the pickled string bean liquid as well as rice vinegar add to the sliced string beans

5 Set up 4 plates Slice the tuna into frac34 cm thick slices and lay out 85 g per plate Using the finishing salt season the tuna to taste

6 Pull the prosciutto slices apart into bite-sized pieces and scatter them with the tuna slices

7 Drizzle 1 Tbs (15 mL) flax oil over each plate with a few slices of the fried garlic from the oil on each plate

8 Scatter the apple and string bean mixture over the slices of tuna being sure to spoon some of the pickling liquid from the bowl over the tuna slices Finish with pea shoot tips and toasted flax seed

Chef Matthias FongRiver Cafeacute

A good quality knife is made from high quality steel usually German or Japanese which will stay sharp for a long period of time and has the potential to last a lifetime

Owning a stainless steel knife versus one made from high carbon steel is also extremely beneficial in any kitchen Itrsquos easy for a knife to end up in the sink which can leave non-stainless varieties rusted and ruined

ldquoRegardless of style or brand itrsquos never safe to let knives go dull Dull knives lead to excessive force and can easily slip off the product yoursquore cuttingrdquo cautions Fong

ldquoTo properly care for a knife I recommend investing in some sharpening stone andor a ceramic honing rod which prolongs the life of your knife and requires less sharpening I also suggest signing up for a class to learn the art of sharpening or just take your knives directly to the folks at Knifewear and theyrsquoll gladly maintain for yourdquo

ldquoMy go-to knife is the Tojiro Flash 825-inch slicer Itrsquos short in length making it versatile for a variety of uses I use it for the majority of my prep work but itrsquos ideal for slicing and carving The narrow blade allows for paper thin slicing on delicate fish like tunardquo says Fong

ldquoI favour the Tojiro line of knives because they offer stainless Japanese steel thatrsquos easy to sharpen and repairrdquo

14

Chef Kai SalimaumlkiThe Block

Chef Salimaumlki is all about a great multipurpose knife ldquoI love the Masakage Kumo Petty 150 mm knife Itrsquos ideal for numerous tasks in the kitchen but I especially love it for chopping fine herbs Itrsquos lightweight and has a remarkably sharp edge that has chives bouncing from under it in perfect uniform circlesrdquo he explains

The Petty knife is ideal for smaller jobs such as slicing shallots cutting herbs and boning smaller proteins And because of its size itrsquos also a great alternative for those who feel uncomfortable wielding a larger heavier chefrsquos knife

ldquoI would recommend this knife for the home cook as it can replace many utility knives people seem to collect in drawers And of course most importantly I recommend proper love attention and care to ensure you keep this tool functioning for a very long timerdquo

You simply canrsquot do your best without your equipment at its best

Chef Jorel ZielkeBrasserie Kensington and Winebar

ldquoIrsquom a huge fan of my 10frac34-inch MAC chefrsquos knife This multipurpose knife is modeled after the standard French chefrsquos kniferdquo says Zielke

Sirloin Beef TartareServes 2

335 g AAA beef sirloin2 Tbs (30 mL) grainy mustard cup minced shallots Tbs minced gherkins2 Tbs cup finely chopped parsley Worcestershire sauce to tasteHot sauce to tasteCold pressed canola oil to taste 1 egg yolk in tact with all whites removedPinch of fresh grated horseradishSalt and pepper

1 Finely dice the sirloin removing any connective tissue or silver-skin Do not trim off the fat Pass over the meat several times with your knife

2 Mix in mustard shallots gherkins parsley Worcestershire hot sauce oil and salt and pepper

3 Note All garnish measurements are suggestions as tartares vary to personal taste Add enough oil to moisten dish but be careful not to oversaturate

4 Top tartare with raw egg yolk and freshly grated horseradish

5 Serve with anything you can pick it up with such as crostini crackers fresh bread fresh heirloom tomato or crisp lettuce

ldquoI canrsquot emphasize enough the importance of respecting your tools by keeping them clean and properly functioning to avoid safety issues You simply canrsquot do your best without your equipment at its bestrdquo

ldquoA sharp knife is key when dicing raw meat like in my recipe belowrdquo he continues ldquoKeep in mind that itrsquos not firm like an onion or a stick of celery Meat shifts and moves as you prepare it so itrsquos important to slow down and take your time when preparing a dish like tartarerdquo

Chef Jorel Zielke

Chef Kai Salimaumlki

15

Robyn is a public relations professional and occasional writer with a passion for food and beverages Despite city hopping from her home in Calgary to Anchorage AK you can still find her on Twitter robynalana

Braised Brisket with Carrot Puree and Napa Cabbage Serves 4

900 ndash 1125 g brisket5 carrots peeled and sliced 12-16 baby potatoes 1 head of Napa cabbage julienned5 parsnips peeled and sliced 2 tomatoes quartered2 yellow onions quartered1 yellow onion thinly sliced6 sprigs of thyme4 sprigs of rosemary 6 whole cloves of garlic3-4 Tbs butter1 Tbs black peppercornsCanola oil4 cups (1 L) beef stock or water1 cup (240 mL) of milkHoney to tasteSalt and pepper 1 Season brisket liberally with salt and pepper (you can braise whole or cut it into smaller chunks)

2 In a large sauteacute pan heat canola oil until it has reached its smoking point Sear the meat on all sides until golden brown and caramelized

3 Remove from pan and place in a large ovenproof baking dish covering with beef stock (or water) Add peppercorns two sprigs of rosemary 4 sprigs of thyme whole garlic tomatoes and the quartered onions

4 Cover with tin foil and braise for approximately for 3-3frac12 hours at 325ordm F or until fork tender

5 Remove from the braising juices spoon off any excess fat and strain juices into a saucepot reduce on a medium heat until a nice thick sauce has formed

6 For carrot puree add two tablespoons of butter in a heavy bottomed saucepan and sauteacute sliced onion and diced carrots together over medium heat Yoursquore not looking to brown the vegetables but rather simmer in the butter

7 After 10 minutes cover the mixture with milk add 2 sprigs of thyme and season with salt Simmer until soft and tender

8 Strain the carrots and reserve the milk throw out the thyme sprigs Place the carrots and onions in a blender and slowly add the milk until a nice puree is achieved check seasoning and thickness and adjust if necessary Set aside 9 Sauteacute julienned cabbage in a tablespoon of butter season with salt and add 2 tablespoons of water Reduce heat and cook for 5 minutes stirring frequently

ldquoI recommend proper love attention and care to ensure you keep this tool functioning for a

very long timerdquo

10 Toss sliced carrots and parsnips with honey chopped rosemary and thyme season with salt and pepper and roast in the oven for an hour at 325ordm F or until tender 11 Boil the baby potatoes in heavily salted water until fork tender

12 To serve set up 4 plates and spoon carrot puree on the bottom of the plate in a circle Arrange potatoes carrots and parsnips around the plate place Napa cabbage in the middle and place brisket on top Spoon the reduced braising liquid over the meat

16

As Nemeth chats with customers other vendors and friends who stop by her enthusiastic greetings and joyous laughter are hard to ignore mdash this is a woman who clearly likes people In fact she loves them Warm hearty and full of surprises the words used to describe Nemethrsquos personality can just as easily be used to describe her soup

The Primal Soup Co is a fairly new entity mdash the frozen containers of soup with flavours like Mango Butternut Squash Spinach Artichoke and Feta and Thai Coconut Chicken first showed up at the Market on MacLeod (then the

Going To MarketPrimal Soup Company Finds Its Homeby ELIZABETH CHORNEY-BOOTH photography by INGRID KUENZEL

If you happen to spy Margaret Nemeth at one of her Primal Soup Company booths at the Crossroads Market or the Market on MacLeod yoursquoll immediately see that the energetic atmosphere of a Farmersrsquo Market suits her

Kingsland Farmersrsquo Market) in 2011 mdash but Nemeth is not new to the food and beverage game

Long-time Calgarians may recognize the Primal name and the taste of Nemethrsquos homemade soups from the now defunct Primal Grounds Cappuccino Bar and Eatery in Killarney which Nemeth owned and ran from 1996 through to 2010

Nemeth opened that business after a career in oil and gas and the stand-alone cafeacute was a solid success for her Not only did it serve up great coffee Nemeth quickly made a name for herself with her homemade soup creations All homemade and gluten-free (due to Nemethrsquos own dietary restrictions) Primal Grounds was catering to people with gluten intolerances long before it became fashionable

ldquoWe were pioneers and it was so much funrdquo Nemeth says ldquoThere were lots of ups and downs but it was a good liferdquo

ldquoWhen yoursquore in a market you have to give people reasons to stoprdquo

Margaret Nemeth

17

Nemeth sold the cafeacute when a real estate developer made her an offer she couldnrsquot refuse but she still felt the urge to be around people and feed them So she set up shop in the markets - first the Market on MacLeod and then in January of 2015 she opened a stall in the rebranded Crossroads Market

Elizabeth Chorney-Booth is a Calgary-based writer and co-founderco-editor of RollingSpooncom and Wapawekkacom She enjoys exploring the connection between music and food through interviews with musicians and chefs

Primal Soup also sells lunch items like gourmet macaroni and cheese sandwiches and homemade pies and pastries so that market wanderers can stop by the stall and grab a full lunch while perusing the soup cooler for something to take home for a future meal

ldquoWhen yoursquore in a market you have to give people reasons to stoprdquo Nemeth says ldquoSo we offer things to go with the soup which also gives them ideas for what they can do at home Or sometimes theyrsquoll come for a sandwich and then theyrsquoll look at the soups You have to give people reasons to be in this spacerdquo

ldquoWe were pioneers and it was so much funrdquo

Whatever Nemeth is doing it seems to be working Between the two farmersrsquo markets and specialty retailers like the Market on 17th Sunnyside Market and SPUD delivery boxes Primal Soup Co sells over 1000 containers of soup every week Nemeth develops the recipes herself but has hired a full-time chef to keep up with the demand Personality and strategic stall locations in busy farmersrsquo markets alone isnrsquot enough to move that kind of volume of soup mdash while Nemeth has made smart business decisions over the course of Primalrsquos various incarnations the key to her success really lies in the product itself Everything is made from scratch without the aid of pre-bought soup bases and Nemeth uses seasonal ingredients (only 20 to 30 of her 50 soup varieties are ever available at any given time) supporting her neighbours at the markets when possible Her meat stocks are built from organic chicken bones Wintersrsquo turkey carcasses and duck bones from fellow market vendor Green Eggs and Ham to build a rich and delicious broth ldquoI layer my soupsrdquo Nemeth says ldquoI donrsquot just throw everything in the pot together And there has to be a twist in every one There has to be something

that you donrsquot expect mdash a surprise in every boxrdquo

To bring things full circle Nemeth has a new venture that just opened kitty corner to her Primal Soup stall in the Crossroads Market a beautiful and shiny new Primal Grounds coffee location With a long counter for people to sit at for as long as they like (Nemeth jokes that itrsquos the perfect place for bored spouses to sit while their partners shop the market) itrsquos an updated nod to what got Primal Soup started in the first place

And itrsquos also a testament to Nemethrsquos dedication to market life mdash the lack of control she has over her own hours and some other aspects arenrsquot perfect but the busyness the proximity to like-minded vendors and most of all the people she gets to interact with on a constant basis has put Nemeth exactly where she belongs ldquoYoursquore only as strong as the market is collectivelyrdquo she says ldquoItrsquos different than being a restaurant but I have to say itrsquos the funnest thing Irsquove ever donerdquo

ldquoThere has to be something that you donrsquot

expect mdash a surprise in every boxrdquo

18

Soup Kitchenstory and photography by DAN CLAPSON

The fresh hang-up-your-winter-jacket feeling is finally in the air ndash and that my friends is a wonderful thing Gone are the days where wersquove looked forward to spooning into a big bowl of creamy soup or sitting down to some chicken noodle soup to help shake off the winter sniffles These days Irsquom more concerned with light and bright flavours and less calorie-ridden meals

so I wonrsquot look completely undesirable in a swimsuit come June

Here are two great recipes that just happen to be vegan but are bursting with flavour

Serves 5 Total cook time 35 minutes

6 cups (15 L) vegetable broth1 cup (240 mL) white wine1 cup (240 mL) water2 Tbs (30 mL) tomato paste2 cups dry green lentils1 red onion halved and thinly sliced1 small fennel bulb halved and thinly sliced2 tsp (10 mL) maple syrup1 tsp dried oreganofrac12 tsp ground turmericfrac12 tsp chili flakesfrac12 tsp ground cinnamon1 pinch nutmeg2 cups thinly sliced red Swiss chardTo taste salt and pepper

1 Place broth wine water and tomato paste in a large pot and bring to a simmer on medium-high heat Add lentils and cook for 15 minutes

2 Add onion fennel maple syrup and spices and continue to cook for 15 minutes

Spiced Green Lentil and Chard Soup

3 Add Swiss chard and cook until leaves are tender about 2-3 minutes Season to taste with salt and pepper and serve

Dan Clapson is a freelance food writer and columnist in Calgary When hersquos not writing about Canadarsquos amazing culinary scene he is likely listening to 80s rock or 90s boy bands Follow him on twitter dansgoodside

Spinach and Cashew Soup with Poblano and Scallion Salsa

Serves 4 Total cook time 30 minutes not including cashew soak time

Soup1frac12 cups roasted cashews2 cups (500 mL) water4 cups (1 L) vegetable broth4 cups cooked spinach1 Tbs (15 mL) apple cider vinegar1 Tbs (15 mL) maple syrupfrac12 tsp cayenne peppersalt and pepper to tastecashew butter for garnish optional

1 Place cashews and water in a container cover and let sit on counter overnight

2 Combine cashews water and remaining soup ingredients in a blender and pureacutee until very smooth

3 Pour contents of blender through a fine mesh strainer into a medium pot Bring to a simmer on medium-high heat and cook for 15 minutes Season to taste with salt and pepper and keep warm on stove until ready to serve

4 Place a couple of spoonfuls of the salsa into each bowl and ladle soup around it Add a couple of dollops of cashew butter for a little extra richness

Salsa1 large poblano pepper halved and seeds removed1 bunch scallions2 Tbs (30 mL) canola oil2 Tbs fresh mint roughly chopped1 tsp (5 mL) lemon juicefrac12 tsp cane sugarfrac12 tsp chili flakessalt and pepper to taste

1 Preheat oven to 400ordm F

2 Place poblano halves and scallions on a baking sheet drizzle with oil and roast until slightly charred about 15-18 minutes

3 Remove from oven allow to cool slightly then give them a rough chop

4 Add to a bowl with remaining ingredients and toss to combine Season liberally with salt and pepper

20

Photograph courtesy California Wine Institute

Ever since Napa Valley cabernet sauvignons and chardonnays bested their more historic counterparts from Bordeaux and Burgundy in the now-famous Judgment of Paris tasting in 1976 California and its flagship region have carried the torch for the bold dense fruity lushly oaked wines that brought them worldwide fame

Forty years later this sun-drenched style of wines remains both unapologetically enjoyable and wildly popular and Napa is on the bucket list of any devoted wine tourist But as tastes and trends start to evolve away from a focus on power and concentration towards greater elegance and food-friendliness winemakers in California are again taking to the frontier gravitating towards the statersquos physical and climatic extremes to explore new boundaries of flavour and complexity Californiarsquos cooler corners

California Coolby PETER VETSCH

California is a land of frontiers dangling on the edge of the Pacific home of the Gold Rush and epicentre of the New Worldrsquos insurgence onto the global wine scene

are fast becoming its second face in the world of wine

Sonoma County north of San Francisco and just west of Napa is probably Californiarsquos second best-known region almost equally recognized for its cabernets chardonnays and zinfandels The largest subregion in the county taking up almost a third of its total area is the western Sonoma Coast too expansive at 500000 acres to have a distinct identity

However the western border of this appellation a razorrsquos edge straddling the ocean locally known as the ldquotruerdquo Sonoma Coast showcases the regionrsquos true character - extreme viticulture wet cool and always windy at elevations up to 2000 feet balanced on the San Andreas Fault with many vines growing above the fog line and constantly exposed to the throes of the Pacific Pinot noir takes on a unique expression here on low-yielding vines in the cool above the rest of Sonoma offering both remarkable purity of fruit and astonishing acidity and structure

Pinot is also predominant in the relatively new Santa Rita Hills subregion of the Santa Ynez Valley located an hour and a half northwest of Los Angeles and similarly perched right alongside the ocean The maritime influence dominates the microclimate and counteracts the California sun with fog and cool breezes to the point where this coastal spot becomes a near ideal substitute for chilly Burgundy Here the core Burgundian varietals of pinot noir and chardonnay thrive in a particularly striking edgy way

Santa Ynez is the only wine region in the western hemisphere where the arearsquos defining mountain range runs east-west instead of north-south creating a sort of maritime wind tunnel that sucks cold Pacific air eastward This leads to some of the largest diurnal (day to night) temperature shifts in North America and allows inland grapes ripening in the scorching daytime heat to recharge and maintain acidity at night This special geological feature allows a wide range of reds in Santa Ynez to be juicy but still structured bold yet balanced from cabernet and merlot to syrah and grenache

Halfway between the Sonoma Coast to the north and the Santa Rita Hills to the south along yet another coastline

California can comfortably both provide continuity

and defy stereotype

Wine Picks

Peter is a local lawyer by day and wine writer by night maintaining his own wine blog at popandpourca He is always on the lookout for the next way to experience wine and the next good bottle to try

A LITTLE SIBLING RIVALRY NEVER HURT ANYBODY

FOUR SETTINGS ONE PHILOSOPHY crmrcom338 - 17th Avenue SW

c i l a n t ro

747 Lake Bonavista Dr SE113 - 8th Avenue SW 340 - 17th Avenue SW

Sequoia Grove 2012 Cabernet Sauvignon (Napa Valley)Textbook cabernet from Naparsquos heart of Rutherford with deep black fruit mint and cedarhellip and a survivable price tag CSPC +740382 $56

Hartford Court Landrsquos Edge Vineyard Pinot Noir (Sonoma Coast)The ferocity of the Sonoma Coast somehow creates the picture of elegance in this juicy yet delicate pinot CSPC +717210 $60

Domaine de la Cote 2013 Pinot Noir (Sta Rita Hills) Seriously pushes the boundaries picked almost insanely early for low-alcohol herbal pomegranate and rhubarb acidic tension and energy CSPC +761893 $58

Alice May Crosswinds Syrah (Santa Ynez Valley) A syrahviognier Cote Rotie-style co-ferment that matches Cali ripeness with surprising verve and delicacy CSPC +761131 $28

Ridge 2013 Geyserville (Santa Cruz Mountains)This will change your expectations of zinfandel A zin-heavy field blend it combines the best of its mountain altitude and the California sun CSPC +426379 $55

just south of San Jose the wineries of the Santa Cruz Mountains prove again that those seeking to make modern moderate wines in California head both west and up The highest vineyards in Santa Cruz despite being just miles from the ocean are at 2600 feet this significant altitude and the cool Pacific climate results in chiseled wines with controlled ripeness and serious staying power

The region is both expansive and miniscule with only 1500 of its 480000 acres currently planted to grapes and its very-California plantings (cabernet chardonnay pinot noir zinfandel and merlot) all take on an Old World character and rusticity from its rugged terrain and stony mineral-laden soils Despite the challenges associated with growing grapes on a cool rock face Santa Cruz is a state leader in sustainable growing practices

The friendly sunny face of California wine is surely here to stay but Santa Cruz Santa Ynez and the Sonoma Coast are permanent proof that the state is readily capable of more than one expression With its range of climate and terrain California can comfortably both provide continuity and defy stereotype

22

En GardeA Beginnerrsquos Guide To Knives And Their Usesby ANNA BROOKS

Itrsquos difficult to imagine that sharp little number thatrsquos slicing away to the rhythm of your favourite cooking music (or to the beating of child-size fists hungry for dinner) was more often used for combat not chopping carrots

Despite King Louis XIVrsquos decree that the tips of knives be ground down to reduce violence in the mid-1600s kitchen knives still (for quite pointed reasons) make popular murder weapons

But we wonrsquot get into grisly stories of guts and gore here Whether yoursquore a chef extraordinaire or the person whose knife knowledge goes as far as cutting

vegetables with a steak knife there are some things everyone should know about knives

The first major thing we must insist upon is putting down that expensive 14-piece knife set As most knife experts can attest to three main knives can cover almost all the work that a layman cook needs to do in the kitchen

23

Three main knives can cover almost all the work that a layman cook needs

to do in the kitchen

Chefrsquos Knife Your standard knife for mincing and slicing vegetables and meat a chefrsquos knife is typically 20-25 cm long but can range all the way up to 36 cm

Luke Pickett from Knifewear is a sight to see wielding some wickedly sharp

handcrafted Japanese models but despite their carnivorous look Pickett said therersquos really nothing to fear

ldquoThere are a lot of people who are scared of really large knivesrdquo Pickett said ldquoBut having good quality kitchen equipment will make your life easierrdquo

For beginners a standard 20 cm chefrsquos knife (although Pickett said blade length is purely based on personal preference) is best to start with but a Japanese Santoku knife mdash an elegant slightly smaller version of a chefrsquos knife mdash will certainly get the job er meal done

Paring KnifeOn the other side of the knife spectrum is the pocket-sized paring knife (note carrying knives in pockets not recommended)

Regan Johnson assistant manager at The Cookbook Co said besides what the individual using a steak knife to cut everything might think the small intricate work required of a paring knife (such as peeling and trimming) should not be done on a cutting board

ldquoParing is anything you can be doing in the air mdash yoursquore not ever supposed to use a paring knife on a boardrdquo she explained

Johnson added that for someone like herself who does almost as much blade-wielding as a samurai she also recommends a utility knife

which is a hybrid of a chefrsquos knife and a paring knife

ldquoI reach for my utility knife a lotrdquo she said ldquoItrsquos got that shape of a paring knife but is longer Itrsquos just for those things in between that you donrsquot need your giant chefrsquos knife forrdquo

Bread KnifeThe last of the big three is of course a bread knife Have you ever tried to cut a loaf of bread with a straight blade Not so easy (or safe) a task

Itrsquos sometimes difficult to do but no matter the type of knife yoursquore using itrsquos important to try and slice as opposed to chopping or sawing It

is quite tempting (and often seems easier) to saw away at the crispy crust of a floured loaf of sourdough but Knifewearrsquos Pickett said sawing can

be a slippery slope to your bread knifersquos grave

ldquoIf you slice you can use the entire blade and itrsquos a lot sharper along the edgerdquo he explained ldquoItrsquos important to get a good bread knife because you canrsquot sharpen them like you can any other sort of kniferdquo

The Big Three

24

Having good quality kitchen equipment will

make your life easier

Anna Brooks is an award-winning journalist from Calgary Alberta She has worked internationally in Thailand and Africa and has been published in Metro BeatRoute Magazine and the Calgary Journal She also enjoys animal rights fantasy fiction and whiskey sours

Tips and TricksOf course you can adorn your kitchen with the countless others belonging to the knife family mdash cleavers carvers boning knives cheese knives etc mdash but if yoursquore not planning on hacking through solid bone anytime soon you probably donrsquot need to spend $200 on a meat cleaver

But there are some other knife-related implements that are important to have in your kitchen

First off a proper cutting board While plastic cutting boards are versatile and can be chucked in the dishwasher wood is really the best way to go Cutting boards are the quickest way to ruin a knife so steer clear of fancy-looking glass or granite boards mdash they are the antagonists of our story

Itrsquos also not a bad idea to have a knife honer on hand As a reminder (or for

those who had no idea what that random rod in the kitchen was used for) honers are for honing not sharpening

ldquoWith use the metal fibres in a knife edge can get bent to one side or another All yoursquore doing with honing is straightening those fibres back outrdquo Johnson from The Cookbook Co explained ldquoSharpening means yoursquore actually removing material and grinding the metal down to a finer edgerdquo

Johnson added that while you can sharpen at home she always recommends getting your knives sharpened professionally at least once a year depending on how much theyare used

Before you go back to making your lazy-day grilled cheese sandwich or that complex stew yoursquove spent hours on we just want to remind you of whatrsquos called ldquothe pinch griprdquo

Not to sound snobbish but grabbing a knife by the handle and hacking away is poor form Use your thumb and index finger to grasp the blade and then wrap your remaining fingers under the bolster of the knife Shape your other hand into a claw to protect your fingertips from accidentally getting lopped off firmly grasp the object to be cut and slice away

If this knowledge was present in the 17th century perhaps old King Louis XIV would be tipping his crown to more cooks not kitchen knife combatants

25

Times Are A Changing Unexpected Take-Outs

by LINDA GARSON and DIANA NG photography by INGRID KUENZEL

Therersquos no denying that many of our cityrsquos restaurants are feeling the effects of the current economic downturn fewer people working downtown ndash indeed fewer people working altogether and so looking to save money by eating out less means many bricks and mortar restaurants are having to get creative with ways to fully utilise their kitchens and staff

High rents exacerbate the situation so itrsquos time for Calgary restaurateurs to think outside the box and proving to be the innovative entrepreneurs that wersquore known for many are diversifying their offerings to include take-out options both raw and cooked

Catch amp The Oyster Bar launched their ldquoBuy Catchrdquo program where you can pick up fresh Ocean Wise seafood to take home and cook (complete with recipes) along with house-made clam chowder and sauces nearly two years ago There are big savings to be had over dining in with no costs for linen or staff and no expectation to tip

Here are four Calgary eateries also getting clever with take-out

programs that are not widely publicised - and may

open a few eyes

26

Centini Restaurant

Itrsquos not a cookie cutter program but the magic of Centinirsquos take-out is that you can ask the kitchen for ideas of what you should have for dinner People even text the servers for suggestions and to order Loyal customers mostly busy businessmen were asking if they catered but without the staff for such a service Centini started offering to prepare dishes for them to cook themselves

Now you can get your favourite restaurant dishes from rack of lamb with red wine demi-glace AAA Alberta beef tenderloin with Gorgonzola pan sauce and sea bass with ginger cream sauce ready to cook at home ldquoWersquore not going to open a bricks and mortar restaurant down south but our food is going thererdquo says Chevonne Centini Theyrsquore seeing pick-ups such as for people stuck at home with a new baby and even 40 people for a funeral

Boxwood

Itrsquos hard to believe that the quality of food coming from the sister restaurant to River Cafe can be had at home and we are not talking about leftovers When

People take home uncooked homemade pasta with sauce separately and even bread dough and often freeze it to cook later or pick up on a Friday evening so everything is prepared ready for Saturday dinner When buying from a restaurant yoursquore getting top quality perfectly trimmed meat everything is done for you - therersquos no shopping

around and even the parsley is chopped And as everything is custom-made all allergies are catered for too

Centini gets fish delivered once or twice every day and it may come as a surprise but with a chef garde manger that spent 15 years in Japan they have customers coming just to take out sushi

you go home to an empty fridge it feels like the only options you have are fast food or pizza Not so

Boxwoodrsquos fresh and seasonal fare is also available to take home While you wonrsquot

be able to enjoy the quaint atmosphere of the restaurant you can order anything on the menu for take out with its special offering being the whole rotisserie free-range chicken which serves two to four people for $40

Many bricks and mortar restaurants are

having to get creative with ways to fully utilise their

kitchens and staff

You will need to call a few hours ahead (the website states before 200 pm) for enough notice for the chicken but for the rest of the selection like its soups and sandwiches you can simply look up the menu online and call to place an order For a perfect night in may we suggest starting with its bison tartare then moving onto the porchetta and another main before finishing off the meal with a slice of pie

27

Gaucho

For most people the elaborate setup of Brazilian barbecue is one of its biggest attractions You may not know this and while you may not be able to take home the lively decor of Gaucho you can actually take the meal home

The spit packed tightly with freshly roasted meats the sign at the table that signals yoursquore ready for more and the roasted and caramelized pineapple that tops off the meal all contribute to the atmosphere but if all you want are the meats and sides for a hefty dinner you can certainly order the meal as a take-out

Order any of the four options (top sirloin pork loin chicken wings or mild sausage) and add three sides from the list of eight which includes a variety of salads black bean stew and rice And because you canrsquot just have one kind of meat when it comes to Brazilian barbecue you can choose additional

Safari Grill

The marinated thinly sliced BBQ short beef ribs at Safari Grill are already a must-have for those in the know but we suspect even regulars will be surprised to discover that you can pick

up uncooked ribs with your choice of seven marinades to take home and BBQ yourself

With none of the associated costs of dining in $65 buys you enough ribs for 10 people and customers actually drive

meats for $4 each Finally choose the sauce yoursquod like to accompany your meal Orders for over five people will come in a big white box and individual

orders come will in regular take-out containers For big parties do call a few hours ahead All you need to make at home is the caipirinha

from Saskatchewan to take away 10-15 lb bags of these uncooked marinated ribs Some people call and ask for them to be marinated and frozen in 5 lb bags to enjoy later as just 5-7 minutes each side on a high flame has the raw ribs ready to eat

And itrsquos not only ribs that people BBQ at home Mishkaki are skewers of marinated chicken beef and prawns and for as little as $3 each you can have a very inexpensive BBQ feast Marinated raw lamb chops are also available or ask for Samaki - a marinated whole tilapia that comes with a basting sauce to brush on You can even get uncooked samosas to cook in your oven at home

All Safari Grillrsquos regular menu can be ordered for take-out but there is no published price list for uncooked dishes so people call to order and ask - but when yoursquore picking up look out for the new jars of house-made mango and lemon pickles

28

Step By Step Go Nuts With Homemade Nutella And Waffles story and photography by NATALIE FINDLAY

There are many nutritional benefits packed into these small filberts They are rich in dietary fibre packed with folate an excellent source of vitamin E and contain mono-unsaturated fatty acids that

can help lower bad cholesterol and raise good cholesterol By making your own Nutella at home you can control the amount of sugar that is added making this delicious spread basicallyhellip a health food

Hazelnuts have a tried and true following for taking the lead role in the chocolate spread Nutella This long-standing love affair has lasted simply because they add a distinct but subtle flavour to the chocolate Truly a match that is better together than apart

These delicious and super-easy waffles make a great base for your homemade Nutella With the addition of ground hazelnuts to the batter you can deepen the hazelnut flavour and pack in more health benefits

Waffles with raspberries and white chocolate spread

29

Natalie is a freelance writer photographer and pastry chef A graduate of Cordon Bleursquos pastry program she manages her own business too to create custom-made cakes

Using the same waffle recipe from above and switching out the mashed banana and adding frac12 a medium orange ndash juice and zest ndash to the batter you have a delicious orange waffle that will highlight the white chocolate hazelnut spread recipe below

Homemade White Chocolate Hazelnut Spread Makes 1frac12 cups

1frac12 cups (200 g) whole hazelnutsfrac12 cup (70 g) icing sugar2 Tbs (30 mL) canola oil1 tsp (5 mL) vanilla extract1 cup (250g) white chocolate

Follow directions for Homemade Nutella and add the melted white chocolate at the end Pulse to combine

Macerated Raspberries with Orange Serves 6

250 g fresh raspberriesfrac12 medium orange zest and juice1 Tbs icing sugarfrac12 tsp vanilla extract

Add all ingredients into a medium bowl and stir to combine Let sit for about 1 hour

Serve your warm waffles topped with your white chocolate homemade hazelnut spread macerated berries and a dollop of whipped cream or ice cream

Note Homemade Nutella has more texture than store bought and will last around 1 month in the fridge Waffles can be made ahead and frozen Thaw and reheat in the waffle maker or the oven

Banana Fruit compoteMakes enough for 6

3 ripe bananas peeled sliced into rounds2 Tbs (30 g) butter2 Tbs (30 g) brown sugar1frac12 tsp (8 mL) vanilla extract1frac12 tsp (8 mL) bourbon

1 Add butter and sugar to a sauteacute pan over medium heat As they melt stir to combine

2 Add vanilla and bourbon than add sliced bananas and sauteacute until warmed through

Serve your warm waffles topped with your homemade hazelnut spread sauteacuteed bananas and a dollop of whipped cream or ice cream

Homemade Nutella Makes 1frac12 cups

1frac12 cups (200 g) whole hazelnutsfrac34 cup (100g) icing sugar3 Tbs (45 mL) canola oilfrac14 cup (30 g) cocoa powder1 tsp (5 mL) vanilla extract

1 Toast hazelnuts on a baking pan in a preheated 350ordm F oven for 10 - 15 minutes Keep an eye on them to make sure they donrsquot start to burn Remove from oven and let cool to the touch

2 Wrap the nuts in a kitchen towel and rub together to remove the skins This should remove most of the skins

3 Place skinless hazelnuts in a food processor on high Process the nuts until they form a smooth paste and the oils start to separate (about 5 minutes) scraping the bowl often

4 Add the icing sugar cocoa powder vanilla and canola oil to the food processor and process until fully incorporated scraping bowl of processor as needed (about 2 minutes)

Hazelnut Banana WafflesMakes 6

frac12 cup (80 g) all purpose flour1 tsp baking powderfrac12 tsp baking sodaPinch sea salt1 Tbs (15 g) icing sugar1 Tbs (10 g) ground hazelnuts6 grates whole nutmeg1 tsp ground cinnamonfrac12 cup (125 mL) buttermilk1 egg yolk2 Tbs (30 g) butter meltedfrac12 small banana peeled and mashed1 egg white

1 Sift together all dry ingredients (except the ground hazelnuts) in a medium bowl Add the ground hazelnuts and combine

2 Mash the half banana in a small bowl with a fork Add the egg buttermilk and melted butter

3 Whisk the egg white to stiff peaks

4 Whisk the wet ingredients into the dry and fold the egg white into the mixture

5 Follow the directions for your waffle pan to cook waffles for around 5 minutes or until cooked through

Note Remember to bring the waffle pan up to temperature in between each batch of waffles

Hazelnut Banana Waffles with Nutella

30

Citrus Beer Friendsby DAVID NUTTALL

This is when the taste andor aroma of a beer can remind the drinker of anything from an orange drink or lemonade to grapefruit soda There are several ways to achieve this character and these beers are becoming more and more popular every day

Hops provide the bitterness in beer and out of the literally hundreds of varieties a few impart citrus notes into the aroma and flavour Cascade and Citra are examples of two of the most popular hops used in several styles of beer most notably the American IPA or India Pale Ale Cascade hops have been around for over 40 years and it is the single most popular hop used by the American craft brewing industry It provides a floralspicy character often reminiscent of grapefruit

Citrarsquos name leaves no guessing as to its attributes A relative newcomer this cross breed of UK German and US hop varieties has been around for less than a decade but it is already an extremely popular hop for imparting

One of the great things about beer is its diversity It can come in a myriad of colours and also a wide variety of flavours citrus being one of the most distinct

Dave Nuttall has been in the liquor and event business forever He is a qualified beer judge and ownerpresident of Epicurean Calgary at epicureancalgarycom for ten years

citrus and tropical fruit characteristics to a beer

It has proven very versatile and appears in several beer styles from session ales to IPAs It has also become a favourite hop to use for dry-hopping (adding hops late into the boil) due to the exceptional aromas it produces For even more flavour and aroma craft brewers now commonly enhance these already citrusy IPAs with actual zest peel or juice from citrus fruits to create an IPAFruit Beer hybrid which sells especially well in summer months

Then there is the yeast and many varieties of yeast can produce citrusy esters The unfiltered hefeweizens brewed on both sides of the Atlantic quite often have a lemony flavour Sour beers also showcase the yeast often cultured from Belgian strains

These beers are tart and produce a gamut of flavours many with citrus qualities and some have added fruit - the easiest and most obvious way to create a citrusy beer The Belgians also add different kinds of oranges with spice additions to their wheat ales to create wit beers now emulated all over the world with different citrus (and other) fruits involved in the recipe We also canrsquot forget the radlers which are simply a lager beer mixed with 40-60 fruit juice - often grapefruit or lemonade

Whether itrsquos added fruit the yeast the hops or a combination of all of them citrusy beers are commonplace now Thanks to new hops like Citra and the increasing popularity of wits and sours we can expect this trend to continue

Here are a few local beers with hints of citrus All are also available on tap

Beer comes in a myriad of colours and flavours citrus being one of the

most distinct

Ribstone Creek Great White CombineThis tiny Edgerton Alberta brewery has been knocking it out of the park lately Named after the ubiquitous Alberta summer hailstorm the use of Belgian yeast sweet orange peel and coriander give this beer an orange flavour in the beginning When the four different hop additions kick in it changes more to a sweet lemony flavour This White IPA has a very tropical feel that makes you forget it was made in northern Alberta CSPC +774162 $16 6-pack cans

Wild Rose Cowbell Sour ales are the new Belle of the Ball at craft breweries Often using imported Belgian yeast strains they are tart tangy and wellhellip sour Calgaryrsquos Wild Rose has taken this flavour profile and added kaffir lime leaves This makes the beer more like a refreshing limeade and is less bitter than many of its other sour counterparts CSPC +778093 $17 6-pack bottles

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TICKETS AVAILABLE AT ALBERTABEERFESTIVALSCOM

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Citradelic Single Hop IPA Big Rock BreweryWith breweries in two (soon to be three) provinces Big Rock now has multiple locations to develop new beers This is the first one from their Vancouver brewery and is full of lemongrapefruit flavours and tropical aromas This beer showcases the Citra hop fooling one to think that citrus has been added when itrsquos all thanks to the hop CSPC +778593 $15 6-pack bottles

Alley Kat Main SqueezeWhat started out as a summer seasonal has now become a mainstay of this Edmonton brewery A North American style wheat ale with a 50 wheat and 50 barley mix it has added grapefruit juice but tastes more along the lines of pink grapefruit rather than its more bitter cousin CSPC +733630 $17 6-pack bottles

32

story by RENEE KOHLMAN

Cheesecake is one of those classic desserts that almost everyone loves unless of course you have a dairy allergy then yoursquoll stay far far away from it While it may seem too complicated to make at home I assure you that itrsquos not

Spice it up cheesecake

Sure there are a few steps involved but the key thing to remember is to have your eggs and cream cheese at room temperature For the best crack-free cheesecake itrsquos best to bake it in a water bath It yields a light creamy texture and is well worth the effort Cheesecake always tastes better the next day so bake it the day before you want to serve it Now that wersquove got the basics down itrsquos time to have a little fun with the crust filling and toppings

The Base

The classic graham cracker crust is fine but every now and again itrsquos great to switch things up Try

ndash Grinding up ginger cookies They work especially well for a pumpkin cheesecake

ndash Chocolate cookie crumbs are fantastic for caramel peanut butter and raspberry cheesecakes

ndash Add finely chopped nuts oats or seeds to the cookie crumbs for added texture and taste

The Middle

Therersquos something to be said for a straight up vanilla or chocolate cheesecake but with some fun add-ins they could take your cheesecake to the next level of deliciousness Try

ndash Swirling tahini dulce de leche salted caramel or chocolate fudge sauce into a creamy vanilla filling

ndash Mix in chopped chocolate peanut butter cups to a chocolate filling

ndash Drop fresh berries (raspberries blueberries blackberries) on top of a vanilla filling

ndash Stir in chopped candied ginger dried cherries or cranberries chopped toasted nuts to the filling

ndash Swap some of the cream cheese with ricotta mascarpone cheese or even strained cottage cheese

ndash You can never go wrong with lemon zest in a vanilla cheesecake

Have a little fun with the crust filling

and toppings

33

Apple Crumble CheesecakeMakes about 12-14 servings Total cook and prep time 3 hours (plus overnight chilling)

I love apple crisp and I love cheesecake This recipe is a fine marriage of both and makes a more than acceptable breakfast The base is a crumble of oats and flour the middle is classic cheesecake and itrsquos topped with cinnamon apples and a buttery oat streusel

Crust 2 cups large flake oats1 cup all purpose flour cup packed brown sugarfrac34 cup butter meltedfrac12 tsp salt

Cheesecake Layer3 - 225 g packages cream cheese at room temperature cup granulated sugar1 tsp (5 mL) vanilla3 large eggs at room temperature cup (80 mL) whipping cream

Apple Layer2 apples peeled cored and sliced about 3-4 mm thick1 tsp ground cinnamonfrac12 tsp salt

Streusel Layer1 cup large flake oatsfrac12 cup all-purpose flourfrac12 cup brown sugarfrac12 cup butter softened1 tsp ground cinnamon

Preheat the oven to 375ordm F

1 Butter the bottom and sides of a 9-inch springform pan with sides that are at least 7 cm high Wrap the bottom of the pan in aluminum foil so it comes at least halfway up the sides

2 Combine the crust ingredients in a large bowl Press the crust evenly into the pan and place on a baking sheet Bake for 10 minutes Remove from oven and let it cool on a wire rack

3 Reduce heat to 325ordm F Put a kettle of water on to boil Have a large roasting pan close by

4 Using a stand mixer with a paddle attachment beat the cream cheese at medium speed for 4 minutes scraping down the sides once or twice until it is soft and creamy With the mixer still running add the sugar and beat for another 4 minutes scraping down the sides of the bowl at least twice Beat in the vanilla Add the eggs one at a time beating for 1 minute after each addition and scraping the bowl Reduce speed to low and add the whipping cream

5 Toss the sliced apples with the cinnamon and salt in a small bowl Combine all of the streusel ingredients in a medium bowl and mix well

6 Place the springform pan in the roasting pan Give the cheesecake batter a good stir and pour it on top of the crust Arrange the apples on top and sprinkle the streusel on top of the apples

7 Place in the oven on the middle rack and pour the hot water into the roasting pan so it comes halfway up the sides of the springform pan

8 Bake the cheesecake for 1frac12 hours Turn off the heat prop open the oven door and let the cheesecake hang inside for another hour

9 Carefully remove from the oven and take out the cheesecake from the hot water bath Remove the foil and let the cheesecake come to room temperature on a wire rack Cover the top lightly and refrigerate for at least 4 hours but overnight is best The next day remove the sides of the pan and serve the cake

Renee is a food writer and pastry chef living in beautiful Saskatoon Saskatchewan Her columns appear in The Saskatoon StarPhoenix and her desserts can be enjoyed at Riverside Country Club Also check out her blog wwwsweetsugarbeancom

The Toppings

Cheesecake with no fun toppings is like a salad with no dressing it just doesnrsquot reach its full flavour potential Try

ndash Salted caramel roasted strawberry sauce or warm chocolate sauce

ndash A rhubarbcardamom compote is divine on top of vanilla cheesecake kissed with a bit of lemon zest Cherry compote is divine with chocolate cheesecake

ndash Have a favourite jam Melt it down with a tiny bit of water and drizzle it on top of your favourite cheesecake

ndash Candied nuts and citrus rind chocolate shavings even crumbled cookies are a fun way to add texture to the cheesecake

ndash Never underestimate the power of fresh seasonal berries and a well-made cheesecakeMacerate them in a little sugar and minced mint or basil and they make a lovely topping Donrsquot forget the whipped cream

34

Think about that for a moment and let that sink in like a cherry in your drink

So how old is ice in bars Well thatrsquos a whole story on its own however the Old Fashioned has been talked about in one form or another since the beginning of the 19th Century The first appearance of this classic cocktail was in the Balance and Columbian Repository newspaper in 1806 as such ldquoA stimulating liquor composed of spirits of any kind sugar water and bittersrdquo

The Old FashionedAn Iconic Drink That Has Stood The Test Of Time

by BRICE PERESSINI

Sohelliphow old is the Old Fashioned The Old Fashioned is as old as ice in bars

When you follow these instructions and put this finely-crafted cocktail into your hand swirl around the ice gaze through the caramel-coloured liquid in the glass and contemplate all that has gone into it you can rest assured you are holding a drink that has delighted taste buds for generations The Old Fashioned however has not always been held in high regard There was a time not too long ago where this fine concoction was an unbalanced fruity watered-down pale imitation of itself More recently

there has been a renaissance involved with this invigorating intoxicant and you can and should expect a proper cocktail when it is ordered at a fine establishment

When this drink is properly prepared it should be in perfect balance (as any proper drink should be) The sweetness of the sugar should not cover the flavour of the bourbon and the bitters should add to not overpower the flavour of the whiskey When the Old Fashioned is well made it is as close to cocktail perfection as a sophisticated patron could expect

Befriend a bespoke barkeep at an upstanding establishment and you will be in trusted hands If you find yourself at home and wanting for a nightcap look no further than the Old Fashioned

Enjoy friends

Old Fashioned Recipe

2 oz Buffalo Trace Bourbon (or your personal favourite)4 dashes Angostura Aromatic Bitters1 raw sugar cube

Muddle the sugar and bitters together with a touch of warm water in a rocks glass Add the bourbon then add ice Stir and garnish with an orange peel and cherry (optional)

Brice is a competition cocktail bartender who plies his trade behind the wood at Chefbar Whisk(e)y is his poison Neat

35

Shoulder Season Wines

by JACLYN ADOMEIT

Wines For Cool Weather

Refreshing white wines match with sunny patios and hot days while bold tannic red wines earn their keep by a fireplace on a winter night Common sense But what about the shoulder season What if yoursquore eating sea bass on a rainy spring day Or sipping wine on a patio during an uncommonly warm April afternoon

Photograph courtesy Tom Firth

36

Wine not only pairs with food but with temperatures and seasons A bright sauvignon blanc can taste flat and acidic on a cold night at no fault of the wine or the drinker Some white wines are other-worldly at the vineyard tasting room in the summer but fall flat when you pull them out for dinner guests in the winter

The change in taste is likely due to a number of factors Anatomically it is your sinus cavities creating the change Higher atmospheric pressures allow your nose to pick out subtle aromas while lower pressures bring out a winersquos acidity and harsh tannins CO2 degasses from liquid at low pressure leaving wines dull and flat too

Serving temperature can greatly affect a winersquos aromatics white wines chilled to near-freezing have dull aromas (Tip allow the bottle a half hour on the counter before popping the cork This will allow the aromatics to warm up enhancing the flavour)

Lastly your own palate will be partial to different flavours depending on sun snow wind and sleet but as a rule of thumb higher alcohol white wines (approximately 13 percent or more) will warm the soul and pair best with cooler weather

Here are some wine selections to go for when it is not too hot and not too cold so you can choose a pairing thatrsquos just right

Fiano

Yoursquoll notice that many of the best white wines for cold weather are grown in hot places Hot climates mean a longer growing season more sugar which leads to higher alcohol and often more robust and tropical flavours All of this is true for fiano - seldom grown outside of Campania in southern Italy Fiano produces age-worthy wines which are rich nutty and delicious

Feudi Di San Gregorio 2014 Campania Fiano di Avellino Italy A beautiful floral bouquet with candied lemon followed by honey-coated hazelnuts on the palate Worth cellaring for a few seasons The perfect dance partner for poultry CSPC +708589 $33

Viognier

Viognier is a white varietal that is best consumed at slightly higher temperatures A chilly glass of viognier will leave you with acid maybe oak and not much else Allow it to warm and you may experience peach pear and toasted almond

Traditionally grown in the warm south of France viognier is often a higher alcohol white wine with rich tropical flavours The heat of the alcohol with tropical flavours and lower acid makes viognier the perfect wine to sip while watching a late spring snowfall

Paul Mas 2014 Languedoc-Roussillon Viognier France Brimming with apricot almond lemon and ripe peach Contains hints of warming oak Pair with something savoury baked brie or spinach-filled puff pastry CSPC + 740978 $17

Dry Roseacute

There is so much more to be had from roseacute than white zinfandel And no itrsquos not just a mix of red and white wine The best roseacute is made from red skinned grapes that only sit on their skins for up to a day and a half to borrow colour and flavour then are fermented and processed

Refined examples of roseacute wines are often dry and have deep aromas of red fruits mild tannins and are savoury instead of sweet The French and Spanish craft great examples of dry roseacutes that are either a single varietal or a blend of grapes such as mourvegravedre grenache syrah or tempranillo

Muga Roseacute 2014 Rioja Grenache Viura and Tempranillo Spain A tamed Rioja Orange blossom woven together with strawberry and a palate of cherry and savoury soft cheese Ideal for charcuterie CSPC + 710261 $16

Orange Wine

Never heard of orange wine A commercial demand for natural wines has fostered a resurgence in ancient wine making practices While roseacute wines are reds that have been produced using white wine making practices orange wines are created from white grapes submitted to maceration and allowed to sit on the skins before fermentation the same practice employed in red winemaking

Unlike any white you have tasted orange wines are full-bodied have mild tannins and deep flavours - the characteristics that allow red wines to bring warmth to cool nights A must try for any wine buff

Allow the bottle a half hour on the counter

before popping the cork

The Bicicleta wines are characterized by their fruity expression and for offering more than

the traditional strains a clear example of this range`s innovation style and creativity

Cono Sur Vineyards amp Winery ConoSurVineyards ConoSurWinesconosurcom

The brewhouse at Wild Rose

Jaclynrsquos first passion was winemaking Shersquos worked in vineyards cellars and restaurants Currently she is a writer who daylights as an environmental engineer She believes that a good life like a good wine is not complete without balance

Nichol 2013 Naramata Pinot Gris Canada A Canadian example of orange wine with backbone Flavours of caramel apple roast nuts orange rind and peach CSPC +504159 $31

Oaked chardonnay

In and out with popular palates oak and chardonnay have been partners for a long time Oak paired with chardonnay can bring out butter richness toasted vanilla tree fruit and in the best examples shimmering minerality That is because oak aging is often accompanied by a malolactic fermentation process that smooths out rigid acids into lactic acid - the acid found in milk

Chardonnay is a grape of many talents and encounters a great diversity of production styles It is oaked examples that pair best with pensive rainy days They are full-bodied warming and complex

Wente Morning Fog 2014 Livermore Valley (California) Chardonnay USA Half oak-aged and malolactic-fermented half crisp and fresh this chardonnay brings together green apple vanilla and toasted oak A friend to cream sauce and roast chicken CSPC +175430 $18

In a province of mutable weather let your wine choices be as varied as the ever changing winds Cheers and herersquos to refined full-bodied cool-weather wines

38

Once yoursquore done with your magazine cover shoot like we did this month or prepping for dinner and have all of those odds and ends just sitting on the cutting board - you know carrot ends onion skins tips of celery stalks you get the point - donrsquot toss lsquoem

Instead place them into a large ziploc bag and straight into the freezer After a couple of weeks yoursquoll likely have four full freezer bags of vegetable bits ready to be turned into broth and herersquos how you do it

Making a big batch of vegetable broth doesnrsquot always mean a trip to the grocery store All you need to do is save those scraps This is a handy trick I learned years ago courtesy of Bon Appetit

No-Waste Vegetable Broth

by DAN CLAPSON

Odds And Ends BrothYields 8 cups (2 L)

12 cups (3 L) water4 full ziploc bags of vegetable trimmings1 yellow onion quartered4 cloves garlicAromatics of choice (I usually toss a couple of rosemary and thyme sprigs in there)To taste Salt and pepper

1 Place all ingredients in a large pot and bring to a boil on medium-high heat

2 Reduce to medium heat and let simmer uncovered for 1frac12 hours

3 Strain season to taste with salt and pepper and use as desired

Full circlePizza amp Oyster Bar

933 17 Ave SW bull fullcirclepizzaca

buck-a-shuck oysters

$1 oysters every night

9 pm - close Sunday-thursday 11 pm - close friday amp saturday

40

Salentein 2012 Reserve Chardonnay Uco Valley Argentina

Very very enjoyable chardonnay blowing me away with complexity varietal character and fine balance between oak lees and fruit Toffee baked apple tangerine and a little almond on the nose lead into silkily textured wine in the mouth Top shelf chardonnay that might be great with lobster tails mussels or poultry Around $20 CSPC +779479

Rutini 2013 Cabernet Malbec Mendoza Argentina

An exceptionally well put together blend - if you want rich berry fruits lots of body but maybe not tons of varietal characters from the individual components Lifted and bright fruits make for a very enjoyable glass Simply perfect for your next barbecue a roast or just chilling out with friends and family $26-30 CSPC +776822

Vinecol 2014 Organic Malbec Mendoza Argentina Fair Trade organic and vegan along with a good price is it still good Piles of fresh fruits (think smashed raspberries) with plenty of spice and soft herb-leaf aromas There are plenty of malbec flavours on the palate too Good for any day of the week with just a little tension between fruit tannin and acid it might be best with pub style burgers pulled pork or sausages About $16 CSPC +755296

Argentina is so much more than malbec While such a noble grape has found its best home in the high altitude vineyards of Argentina there is a lot going on with other grapes as well

Making The Case For Argentina

by TOM FIRTH

This massive country nestled up against the Andes mountains has a range of growing conditions suited to a number of grapes From Salta in the north to Patagonia in the south plenty of interesting wines are available here - many reasonably priced and of excellent quality So yes there are some

malbecs on these pages but please do try some of the other grapes and blends coming from Argentina too

Be sure to crack open a bottle of malbec on ldquoWorld Malbec Dayrdquo April 17 - who knows it might be nice enough to barbecue too

Photograph courtesy Tom Firth

41

Manos Negras 2011 Stone Soil Select Mendoza Argentina Quite new to the market this is a pretty enjoyable version of Argentinarsquos flagship grape Loads of blue fruit and raspberries with spices galore and a little compost Rich flavours lead to a lengthy spicy finish Yes please Bring to a barbecue if you can $21 CSPC +630541

Zuccardi 2012 Zeta Mendoza Argentina

A malbec-cabernet sauvignon blend that is also a blend of two different Mendoza appellations La Consulta and Gualtallary Deep and abundant fruit aromas with liquorice root and a touch of blueberry preserves Excellent balance of flavours on the palate too with the right structure and tannin for aging if desired Enjoy with a prime rib or even meaty pasta dishes or game $50-52 CSPC +740270

Zuccardi 2012 ldquoEmmardquo Bonarda Mendoza Argentina

In my humble opinion one of the finest bonardas coming out of Argentina Notes of coffee bean and espresso complement cherry and blackberry fruits with healthy balanced tannins to stand up to the tart fruits Delicious for sure enjoy at your next barbecue $40 CSPC +758407

Luigi Bosca 2011 Cabernet-Malbec Mendoza Argentina

A wonderfully earthy and savoury blend with plenty of tobacco spice leather and yes lots of fruit too The earthy flavours work well with the big dark chocolate flavours and weighty tannins Drink now or through 2020 or so - with a steak naturally $22-24 CSPC +766010

Trivento 2013 Golden Reserve Malbec Lujan de Cuyo Argentina While there is a trend to see a lot of premium malbecs move away from oak presence this one is a bold smooth and delicious example that is seeing about a year of oak All those berry fruits plums and herb notes malbec is known for along with the smoothness that only oak brings Kick back relax maybe cook up some steaks - enjoy About $24 CSPC +711402

Trivento 2014 Malbec Reserve Mendoza Argentina Nearly unbeatable for good malbec at a great price itrsquos rich and chocolatey on the nose with big fruits and oak tones too Mild garrigue notes or dried herb flavours with plenty of fruit and tannins - still showing a fine sense of balance Enjoy with beef $14 CSPC +730714

Luigi Bosca 2011 De Sangre Mendoza Argentina A blend of cabernet sauvignon merlot and syrah that manages to pull out the best of each varietal Earthy and slightly smoky with good fruits and plenty of versatility Tannins are well-placed against the fruits with a long smooth finish Irsquove been a fan of this wine year after year Good to keep a couple on hand in the cellar About $29 CSPC +745106

Salentein 2012 Numina Gran Corte Uco Valley Argentina A malbec-dominated Bordeaux blend this stunner is all about ripe fruits cedar pepper cherries and plum with a little tealeaf and the right amount of tannins Very very well balanced and like any great wine think about some food to go with it Beef tenderloin slow cooked meats or maybe at your next asadohellip About $40 CSPC +764706

Colonia Las Liebres 2013 Bonarda Mendoza Argentina Bear with me here - a fine bonarda with plenty of earthy smoky aromas leading to rubber charred cherries and cocoa Some pretty prominent tannins to be found as well but wow does it all come together A wine that just begs for duck with cranberries or maybe some kebabshellip$20 CSPC +773381

42

Open That Bottleby LINDA GARSON photography by INGRID KUENZEL

ldquoIf you work in a place and yoursquore miserable I donrsquot know if there is a dollar amount that can be attached to that The work that yoursquore doing has to be rewarding and challengingrdquo says Karen KhoGrowing up in Niagara Falls in a Philippino SpanishChinese family Kho was surrounded by food and drinks with an open door policy that has had a huge influence on the person she is today - an

entertainer who likes to make people feel welcome ldquoMy parents wanted me to be a lawyer there was definitely an encouragement to use my voice for goodrdquo she explains ldquoAnd I still think I help people but in a different way a very social wayrdquo

Graduating Western University with a political science degree in 2000 Kho spent a year travelling and living in Australia before taking a leap of faith and moving to Calgary Here she studied wine with the International Sommeliers Guild and WSET but says her real education was a job she adored working in the wine trade at BIN 905 in tandem with running wine programs for CRMR restaurants It was only when the opportunity came to create the wine program at Vin Room six years later that Kho leapt at the challenge of a new idea for the city and spent four happy years there

Eventually she and her partner decided to stretch their wings and went to Vancouver where Kho embarked on a six-month culinary course at the Pacific Institute of Culinary Arts ticking off another box on her bucket list ldquoI wanted a greater understanding of technique in the kitchen and I wanted an understanding of what service on a very basic level would look like if I ever owned my own place and ever had to be the person who filled inrdquo she says ldquoI feel if I was ever in a place that needed someone to chop onions Irsquom your womanrdquo she laughs

A year later the pair came back with the idea of eventually opening their own business in Calgary ldquoThe support we get from this community is heartfelt and this is a city of opportunity People with the right concept are seeing a lot of great success itrsquos still our game planrdquo she says Meanwhile Kho applied only to Teatro where she is now Group Service Director

ldquoI wanted to work at a place that had a challenging wine program and had a level of service with high expectations and where professional service teams

applyrdquo she says ldquoItrsquos pretty romantic to work for a company that has been built on a foundation of service Successful businesses in the restaurant industry get the grand picture which is the moments that yoursquore creating for people and I like to be a part of thatrdquo she adds

So what bottle is Kho saving for a special occasion

Paying homage to her time at BIN 905 Kho explains ldquoI have a bottle of 1996 Chateau Mouton Rothschild which was given to me with some very kind words on my last day at BIN Irsquove always just appreciated my time there it was where I learned the vernacular of wine and itrsquos my first job where I really saw the benefits of serving people with intentionrdquo She continues ldquoI always see it thankfully as the stepping-stone to a broader wine profession and eventually to the position that I have now It was given to me by very close friends that Irsquom still friends with to this dayrdquo

And when is she planning to open the wine

ldquoWhen (partner) Dave and I open our own restaurantrdquo Kho says This isnrsquot something that something that will happen tomorrow but fortunately the wine will last until theyrsquore ready

Charcoal-grilled prime cutsHand-muddled caipirinhas50+ salad bar optionsThree distinct private rooms

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Letter From The Editor

Welcome to Aprilrsquos Culinaire magazine the last issue before our 4th birthday

Itrsquos definitely an interesting time for the food and beverage scene in Calgary Increasing rents property taxes rising produce prices and potential wage increases are all taking their toll on our

vibrant restaurant scene Rumours abound of restaurant closures in the industry but also new innovative ideas for keeping kitchens fully employed ndash the clever money is on more take-outs from established restaurants and in particular from those you expect least

Nary a new restaurant has opened in the last year without some form of take-out window or program and wersquore looking at the latest innovative offerings to see how you can benefit from these ideas Yoursquoll see in our round up of new openings in our Shout-Outs how this is a recurring theme

April brings us plenty to celebrate ndash of course we have our 2nd annual Treasure Hunt to look forward to on April 9th This was one of our biggest events last year - we were trending on Twitter - and we canrsquot wait for the even bigger and better-organised Treasure Hunt this year I hope yoursquove already registered as we have a

finite cut-off for participants and like last year everyone goes home a multiple winner having experienced one of the most memorable days in Calgary Take no prisoners

Our other big news is that with this issue of Culinaire we are expanding into Canmore and Banff and are readily available in both towns Wersquore pleased and proud to sponsor Canmorersquos Uncorked Wine Festival on April 16 itrsquos a sell-out event so I hope you already have your tickets

Itrsquos also International Malbec Day on April 17 and the Californian Wine Fair on April 26th Canadarsquos largest wine tasting tour of Californian Wines and we have you covered for both in this monthrsquos issue But our REALLY big news will be revealed next month ndash watch this space for more details

CheersLinda Garson Editor-in-Chief

All Trademarks presented in this magazine are owned by the registered owner All advertisements appearing in this magazine are the sole responsibility of the person business or corporation advertising their product or service For more information on Culinaire Magazinersquos Privacy Policy and Intention of Use please see our website at wwwculinairemagazineca All content photographs and articles appearing in this magazine are represented by the contributor as original content and the contributor will hold Culinaire Magazine harmless against any and all damages that may arise from their contribution All public correspondence which may include but is not limited to letters e-mail images and contact information received by Culinaire Magazine becomes the property of Culinaire Magazine and is subject to publication Culinaire Magazine may not be held responsible for the safety or return of any unsolicited manuscripts photographs and other materials Reproduction of this publication in whole or in part without written consent from Culinaire Magazine is strictly prohibited

Editor-in-ChiefPublisher

Commercial Director

Edmonton Sales Director

Contributing Food Editor

Contributing Drinks Editor

Digital Media Editor

Contributing Photographer

Design

Contributors

Linda Garsonlindaculinairemagazineca

Keiron Gallagher403-975-7177salesculinairemagazineca Lisa Wolansky587-338-8780 lisaculinairemagazineca

Dan Clapsondanculinairemagazineca

Tom Firth tomculinairemagazineca Anna Brooks webculinairemagazineca

Ingrid Kuenzel

Emily Vance

Jaclyn AdomeitAnna BrooksElizabeth Chorney-BoothNatalie FindlayRenee KohlmanRobyn MacleanKaren MillerDiana NgDavid NuttallBrice PeressiniPeter Vetsch

To read about our talented team of contributors please visit us online at

culinairemagazineca

infoculinairemagazinecawwwfacebookcomCulinaireMagazine

Twitter culinairemagInstagram culinairemag

For subscriptions competitions and to read Culinaire online

culinairemagazineca

Our Contributors

lt Peter VetschPeter is a local lawyer by day and wine writer by night pursuing his vinous passion by maintaining his own wine blog at popandpourca He has earned his formal wine accreditation through

the Wine amp Spirits Education Trust (WSET) where he obtained both Intermediate and Advanced Certificates with Distinction and he is always on the lookout for the next way to learn about and experience wine (and the next good bottle to try)

lt Anna BrooksAnna Brooks is Culinairersquos new digital media editor A Mount Royal journalism graduate stories have pulled her overseas to pursue international work in India Africa and

Thailand She has been published locally in Metro FreeFall and BeatRoute magazine She likes magical realism wine and English cocker spaniels (well just one English cocker spaniel) Follow her on Twitter Anna_Brooksie

lt Brice Peressini Brice Peressini has turned his passion for food drink and travel into his profession When not writing about the culinary arts he can be found mixing drinks at Chefbar or

visiting one of his favourite bars or restaurants His favourite cocktails are Old Fashioneds Manhattans and Negronis His favourite pastime is converting people to whisk(e)y

C A L G A R Y F O O D amp D R I N K R E C I P E S

Contact us atCulinaire Magazine

1203 804 -3rd Avenue SWCalgary AB T2P 0G9

403-870-9802

6

Salutes

and Shout Outs

Club for Carnivores

A subscription to the Carnivore Club will see a box of 4-6 cured or smoked meats with a combined weight of 1frac12-2 pounds arrive on your doorstep each month The club finds sources and features Canadian artisans who make premium charcuterie from ethically raised animals Some items will be traditional alongside more unusual items ndash think water buffalo and cranberry salami Each box comes with a handbook that describes that monthrsquos featured artisan explains what each meat is and sometimes includes pairing suggestions $50 a month includes the price of shipping and supports local family farms ndash and itrsquos all Fair Trade too they make sure the artisans are paid fairly for their quality meats We approve Check out carnivoreclubco

Hats off to Village Brewery

hellip who have teamed up with nano brewery The Dandy Brewing Company to launch the first annual Village Friend a 10 ABV Baltic Porter with deep and rich flavours of molasses and liquorice The collaboration will see part of the proceeds from this ale go to buying new pumps for Dandy a huge upgrade for the brewers ldquoThings are going well for us and we want to do our part to support Calgaryrsquos rising breweriesrdquo says Village

Breweryrsquos Jim Button We just love the concept ndash itrsquos soooo Calgary

Congrats to SAIT Team

hellip for their Meyer Lemon Mousse winner of the 2016 Pastry Chef Showcase Peoplersquos Choice Award for favourite plated dessert and to Bishwa Pati the Calgary Petroleum Club and the Delta Lodge at Kananaskis who won the Chocolate Showpiece Peoplersquos Choice Awards The event was an all-

round success raising funds for LrsquoArche Calgary and scholarships for SAIT Baking and Pastry Arts students Great job all

The Unicorn returns

After closing 11 months ago to make way for Quebec fashion retailer Simons The Unicorn Pub is back in business with its staff and many of its regular customers just half a block away from its original premises After nearly 36 years this Calgary icon has joined forces with Below Deck Tavern and the Libertine to become a three-storey superpub but still staying true to its cheerful friendly and value-driven lsquoeverybodyrsquo pub roots Welcome back

Cluck and Cleaver are open

This long-anticipated chicken takeout spot is finally open next to Boydrsquos on 14th Street SW in a stand-alone building with parking behind ndash and theyrsquore busy But we know why ndash sisters Nicole and Francine Gomes having been toying with the concept for 10 years ndash and

theyrsquove got it right Choose either super-crunchy Southern Fried or juicy Classic Rotisserie chicken by the piece or box and add a side of smoky chipotle lime corn and bean salad or creamy potato egg salad crunchy coleslaw and delicious baby roast potatoes that have soaked up all the juices from cooking with the chicken in the rotisserie Hand-cut fries fluffy buttermilk biscuits and gravy and homemade cookies are all on offer too ndash and all at great prices Yes itrsquos definitely the year for tasty take-outs

New Back Bar at Alloy

My how time flies ndash Alloy restaurant have occupied their beautiful BonnybrookManchester location for eight years and have just renovated the rear dining room and bar area to become The Back Bar by Alloy Now you can reserve a place at the bar or in one of the comfy booths for a casual drink before or after your meal Bar manager and mixologist Jake Hewitt is putting his spin on classic cocktails and chefowner Rogelio Herrera has created a very tasty snack menu of predictably delicious tempura shrimp tacos beef tartare nachos tender pork belly sliders crunchy nuts with togarashi and lime - and more

Cluck and Cleaver

INTRODUCING

A Farmerrsquos Wine

Every great wine tells a storyThis one starts with a farmer

10 Foot Henryrsquos back where he belongs

- on the ground floor of the Eagle Block where he spent 19 years upstairs in the Night Gallery 10 Foot Henry is the brainchild of Aja Lapointe and Steve Smee lately of Ox amp Angela and Una and a welcome addition to Victoria Park Veggies are the star here with meat as the supporting act theyrsquore serving up casual and creative lsquoNew North Americanrsquo comfort-food dishes - the way the couple eat at home Grab a friend and share a few plates of mash with goat yogurt ver jus and a fried egg - a sublime combination or nibble some mushroom and kale tempura with two dipping sauces or fresh and comforting roasted carrots and avocado with pistachio gremolata Bread is by Sidewalk Citizen and pasta is from Mercato and all desserts are made in house Wash it down with wine from the eclectic list or one of five organic and Fair Trade coffees from Calgaryrsquos original roaster ndash The Roasterie or one of six loose-leaf teas from the Naked Leaf See you there

Eagle Block

8

Book Review

Karen Miller is a lawyer by trade giving her a knack for picking apart a cookbook She has taught many styles of cooking classes and was part of the Calgary Dishing girls

Lick Your Plateby Julie Albert and Lisa GnatAppetite by Random House 2016 $32

by KAREN MILLER

The Bite Me Bite Me Too sisters are back this time thankfully with a little less gimmick Their cooking was always good and their passion for sharing always evident but it seems they have become more confident in their cooking

Lick Your Plate is a cookbook a lot of us will want on our kitchen shelf a compilation of recognizable recipes for family meals and entertaining alike The sisters have still managed to convey their effervescent style but the focus is on easy recipes anyone can do These girls are happy in the kitchen

It would be hard not to find some old favourites or a style of cuisine you want to try The recipes are not ldquoauthenticrdquo

but they work - they are quick and will satisfy your cravings Very few recipes have preparation times in excess of 15 minutes and the ingredients are easily found in our pantry They incorporate many styles from fast stir fries to slow cooker meals healthy grains a full range of vegetables dishes (yes including

Brussels sprouts and kale) and tempting desserts (try the Golden Apple Crisp with Salted Caramel Sauce on p 275)

The sisters have made an absolutely respectable version of a traditional Moroccan soup (Moroccan Chickpea amp Lemon Couscous Soup p 36) and who would not want to try their version of sticky buns (Luscious Lemon Sticky Buns p 243)

The cookbook still has a good sense of humour with catchy chapter titles and scattered quotes which will bring a smile to your face and do what they are intended to do - take the pressure off Enjoying the cooking process is what this cookbook is about making it easy and good enough to lick your plate

C u l i n a i r e rsquo s 2 n d A n n u a l T r e a s u r e H u n t i s S a t u r d a y A p r i l 9 t h

You may see yourself on television too this year mdash definitely another day to remember

culinairemag CulinaireMagazine culinairemag culinairemagazineca

Wersquore beyond excited for another amazing day of foodies in Calgary racing round the city to find out what treats await at over 30 destinations ndash the vast majority of which are new for 2016

Everyone went home a winner at our first annual Culinaire Treasure Hunt last year ndash and some were multiple winners We were completely sold out and it was so popular that we were trending on Twitter

Trivia questions about the participating restaurants markets and stores revealed the answers for where to dash off to receive your treat get your passport stamped and probably come away with a little culinary gift too

And there are fabulous prizes for the people who visit the most locations wear the best costumes have the funniest team names tweet the funniest photoshellip and lots lots more

This year is going to be an even more fun and rewarding day - we hope you and a partner have signed up as a team of two and registered to join us or signed up solo

Visit culinairemagazinecacontests follow us on Twitter culinairemag for the latest details and like us on facebook at facebookcomCulinaireMagazine to keep up with the news

DISCOVERCALIFORNIA WINES

ThIS IS A FuNDRAISER bENEFITINg CALgARy OpERA

calgaryoperacomwinefair

TuESDAy ApRIL 26 2016700 pm ndash 930 pm pALOmINO ROOm bmO CENTRE AT STAmpEDE pARk

$75 gST INCLuDED

FESTIVAL DES VINS

WINE FAIR

QuEbEacuteC CITy mONTREacuteAL OTTAWA TORONTO VANCOuVER CALgARy EDmONTON hALIFAX

The largest tasting tour of California wines in CanadaAlso includes a silent auction of wines not available in Canada

In todayrsquos busy world you may not get a chance to pick up

every issue of Culinaire To ensure

your copy go to culinairemagazineca to have the next ten issues delivered right

to your door

Order today mdash 10 issues for $39+gst

We Deliver

14 Ways to Spice Up Grilled Cheese | Beyond YYC Maui | Sunday Suppers

C A L G A R Y F O O D amp D R I N K R E C I P E S V O L U M E 4 N O 8 J A N U A R Y F E B R U A R Y 2 0 1 6

FOOD TRENDS FOR 2016

20+ AWARD-WINNING

TOP VALUE WINES

Beyond YYC Canmore amp Banff | Grab-and-Go | Absinthe The Green Fairy

C A L G A R Y F O O D amp D R I N K R E C I P E S V O L U M E 4 N O 9 M A R C H 2 0 1 6

RAISE A GLASS

TO WOMEN BEHIND THE BAR

AMAZING COCKTAILS TO MAKE AT HOME

For Foodies amp Beverage Lovers

10

A sure-fire favourite dish at Una Pizza + Wine Kale Caesar Salad is much requested It has all the elements of a perfect salad crunchy prosciutto and breadcrumbs and chewy kale leaves and egg for texture with grated cheese and a creamy plate-licking dressing to pull it all together Many thanks to Una Executive Chef Jen Pena for sharing it with us

Unarsquos Kale Caesar SaladServes 4

Salad2 Tbs (30 mL) olive oil plus more if needed4 thin slices prosciutto juliennedfrac12 cup panko breadcrumbsMaldon salt and black pepper2 bunches kale leaves only julienned1 cup grated Pecorino cheese2 hard boiled eggs peeled and halved (optional)

Caesar Dressing1 clove garlic4 anchovy fillets1 Tbs (15 mL) Dijon mustardZest and juice of 1 lemonfrac12 cup (120 mL) olive oil

1 Using a fork crush garlic and anchovies against the inside of a large bowl Add mustard lemon juice zest and olive oil and whisk until well emulsified Pour the dressing into a glass jar and set aside

2 Line a plate with paper towels Heat olive oil in a medium frying pan on high Add prosciutto and pan-fry until crispy about 5 minutes Transfer to the paper towel-lined plate and set aside

3 Reduce the heat to low and add panko crumbs to the pan adding a little oil if required Toast until golden about 2 minutes Scrape the panko into a small bowl season to taste with salt and set aside

4 Place kale in a large bowl pour in the dressing and toss well Season with salt and black pepper Transfer to a serving

bowl and top with grated Pecorino cheese toasted panko and crispy prosciutto Serve with the boiled eggs if desired

If therersquos a dish in a restaurant that yoursquod love to know how to make let us know at culinairemagazinecacontact-us and wersquoll do our very best to track it down for you

Off The Menu

culinairemagazinecaaba sponsors

Registrations are arriving already With the success of last yearrsquos competition

2016 will be an even greater competition this year Visit culinairemagazinecaaba

to enter your wines beers and spirits for the 2016 Alberta Beverage Awards

Have You Entered Your Wine Beers And Spirits Yet

For more information contact competition director Tom Firth tomculinairemagazineca

Registration Deadline July 1 | Judging Takes Place July 18-19-20

12

Tricks Chefs Tipsstory by ROBYN MACLEAN photography by INGRID KUENZEL Knives

The most important tool in any kitchen without a doubt is a good knife As Iron Chef Masahari Morimoto would say ldquoa kitchen without a knife is not a kitchenrdquo

I couldnrsquot agree more

For professional cooks knives are practically an extension of their hands and probably better cared for But a quality knife is just as essential for home cooks If yoursquore even slightly inclined to cook at home at the very least you should own a classic 20 cm chefrsquos knife ndash the go-to knife for the brunt of daily kitchen tasks

But itrsquos certainly not the only knife you should have in your arsenal Slicing dicing filleting butchering and julienning become a whole lot easier when you use the right knife for the job and these three Calgary chefs share their favourite model and a recipe to help point you in the right direction

䈀甀礀 琀栀攀 琀漀瀀 栀愀氀昀 漀昀 愀渀礀 戀漀琀琀氀攀 漀昀 眀椀渀攀 戀攀琀眀攀攀渀 瀀洀ⴀ㘀瀀洀 愀渀搀 最攀琀 琀栀攀 戀漀琀琀漀洀 琀栀攀 昀甀渀 栀愀氀昀⤀ 昀漀爀 䘀刀䔀䔀

䘀刀

䔀䔀

䴀伀一䐀䄀夀 ⴀ 䘀刀䤀䐀䄀夀 瀀洀 ⴀ㘀瀀洀

瀀爀椀挀攀 戀漀琀琀氀攀猀 漀昀 眀椀渀攀㔀 戀漀琀琀氀攀猀 漀昀 戀攀攀爀㔀 栀椀最栀戀愀氀氀猀

䠀䄀䰀䘀 䘀刀䔀䔀 圀䤀一䔀

㔀 㔀 Ⰰ 㠀 䄀 瘀 攀 匀 圀 Ⰰ 䌀 愀 氀 最 愀 爀 礀 Ⰰ 䄀 䈀 吀 倀 䜀

Pacific Albacore Tuna CrudoServes 4

335 g Pacific albacore tuna 1 honey crisp or granny smith apple 4 cloves of garlic thinly sliced frac12 tsp ground espelette chili frac14 cup (60 mL) sunflower oil frac14 cup (60 mL) flax oil 1 Tbs lightly toasted flax seed 8 pickled string beans (keep some pickling liquid)4 slices of prosciutto 1 Tbs (1 mL) rice vinegar Pea shoots Good quality finishing salt like fleur de sel

1 Slice garlic as thinly as possible and combine with sunflower oil in a small saucepan Heat slowly and allow the garlic to fry until golden brown Remove from heat and add the ground espelette chili

2 Allow the oil to steep for 15-20 minutes at room temperature Once cool add flax oil

Chef Matthias Fong

3 Slice 8 pickled string beans thinly into rounds

4 Dice the apple into 1 cm cubes and add a splash of the pickled string bean liquid as well as rice vinegar add to the sliced string beans

5 Set up 4 plates Slice the tuna into frac34 cm thick slices and lay out 85 g per plate Using the finishing salt season the tuna to taste

6 Pull the prosciutto slices apart into bite-sized pieces and scatter them with the tuna slices

7 Drizzle 1 Tbs (15 mL) flax oil over each plate with a few slices of the fried garlic from the oil on each plate

8 Scatter the apple and string bean mixture over the slices of tuna being sure to spoon some of the pickling liquid from the bowl over the tuna slices Finish with pea shoot tips and toasted flax seed

Chef Matthias FongRiver Cafeacute

A good quality knife is made from high quality steel usually German or Japanese which will stay sharp for a long period of time and has the potential to last a lifetime

Owning a stainless steel knife versus one made from high carbon steel is also extremely beneficial in any kitchen Itrsquos easy for a knife to end up in the sink which can leave non-stainless varieties rusted and ruined

ldquoRegardless of style or brand itrsquos never safe to let knives go dull Dull knives lead to excessive force and can easily slip off the product yoursquore cuttingrdquo cautions Fong

ldquoTo properly care for a knife I recommend investing in some sharpening stone andor a ceramic honing rod which prolongs the life of your knife and requires less sharpening I also suggest signing up for a class to learn the art of sharpening or just take your knives directly to the folks at Knifewear and theyrsquoll gladly maintain for yourdquo

ldquoMy go-to knife is the Tojiro Flash 825-inch slicer Itrsquos short in length making it versatile for a variety of uses I use it for the majority of my prep work but itrsquos ideal for slicing and carving The narrow blade allows for paper thin slicing on delicate fish like tunardquo says Fong

ldquoI favour the Tojiro line of knives because they offer stainless Japanese steel thatrsquos easy to sharpen and repairrdquo

14

Chef Kai SalimaumlkiThe Block

Chef Salimaumlki is all about a great multipurpose knife ldquoI love the Masakage Kumo Petty 150 mm knife Itrsquos ideal for numerous tasks in the kitchen but I especially love it for chopping fine herbs Itrsquos lightweight and has a remarkably sharp edge that has chives bouncing from under it in perfect uniform circlesrdquo he explains

The Petty knife is ideal for smaller jobs such as slicing shallots cutting herbs and boning smaller proteins And because of its size itrsquos also a great alternative for those who feel uncomfortable wielding a larger heavier chefrsquos knife

ldquoI would recommend this knife for the home cook as it can replace many utility knives people seem to collect in drawers And of course most importantly I recommend proper love attention and care to ensure you keep this tool functioning for a very long timerdquo

You simply canrsquot do your best without your equipment at its best

Chef Jorel ZielkeBrasserie Kensington and Winebar

ldquoIrsquom a huge fan of my 10frac34-inch MAC chefrsquos knife This multipurpose knife is modeled after the standard French chefrsquos kniferdquo says Zielke

Sirloin Beef TartareServes 2

335 g AAA beef sirloin2 Tbs (30 mL) grainy mustard cup minced shallots Tbs minced gherkins2 Tbs cup finely chopped parsley Worcestershire sauce to tasteHot sauce to tasteCold pressed canola oil to taste 1 egg yolk in tact with all whites removedPinch of fresh grated horseradishSalt and pepper

1 Finely dice the sirloin removing any connective tissue or silver-skin Do not trim off the fat Pass over the meat several times with your knife

2 Mix in mustard shallots gherkins parsley Worcestershire hot sauce oil and salt and pepper

3 Note All garnish measurements are suggestions as tartares vary to personal taste Add enough oil to moisten dish but be careful not to oversaturate

4 Top tartare with raw egg yolk and freshly grated horseradish

5 Serve with anything you can pick it up with such as crostini crackers fresh bread fresh heirloom tomato or crisp lettuce

ldquoI canrsquot emphasize enough the importance of respecting your tools by keeping them clean and properly functioning to avoid safety issues You simply canrsquot do your best without your equipment at its bestrdquo

ldquoA sharp knife is key when dicing raw meat like in my recipe belowrdquo he continues ldquoKeep in mind that itrsquos not firm like an onion or a stick of celery Meat shifts and moves as you prepare it so itrsquos important to slow down and take your time when preparing a dish like tartarerdquo

Chef Jorel Zielke

Chef Kai Salimaumlki

15

Robyn is a public relations professional and occasional writer with a passion for food and beverages Despite city hopping from her home in Calgary to Anchorage AK you can still find her on Twitter robynalana

Braised Brisket with Carrot Puree and Napa Cabbage Serves 4

900 ndash 1125 g brisket5 carrots peeled and sliced 12-16 baby potatoes 1 head of Napa cabbage julienned5 parsnips peeled and sliced 2 tomatoes quartered2 yellow onions quartered1 yellow onion thinly sliced6 sprigs of thyme4 sprigs of rosemary 6 whole cloves of garlic3-4 Tbs butter1 Tbs black peppercornsCanola oil4 cups (1 L) beef stock or water1 cup (240 mL) of milkHoney to tasteSalt and pepper 1 Season brisket liberally with salt and pepper (you can braise whole or cut it into smaller chunks)

2 In a large sauteacute pan heat canola oil until it has reached its smoking point Sear the meat on all sides until golden brown and caramelized

3 Remove from pan and place in a large ovenproof baking dish covering with beef stock (or water) Add peppercorns two sprigs of rosemary 4 sprigs of thyme whole garlic tomatoes and the quartered onions

4 Cover with tin foil and braise for approximately for 3-3frac12 hours at 325ordm F or until fork tender

5 Remove from the braising juices spoon off any excess fat and strain juices into a saucepot reduce on a medium heat until a nice thick sauce has formed

6 For carrot puree add two tablespoons of butter in a heavy bottomed saucepan and sauteacute sliced onion and diced carrots together over medium heat Yoursquore not looking to brown the vegetables but rather simmer in the butter

7 After 10 minutes cover the mixture with milk add 2 sprigs of thyme and season with salt Simmer until soft and tender

8 Strain the carrots and reserve the milk throw out the thyme sprigs Place the carrots and onions in a blender and slowly add the milk until a nice puree is achieved check seasoning and thickness and adjust if necessary Set aside 9 Sauteacute julienned cabbage in a tablespoon of butter season with salt and add 2 tablespoons of water Reduce heat and cook for 5 minutes stirring frequently

ldquoI recommend proper love attention and care to ensure you keep this tool functioning for a

very long timerdquo

10 Toss sliced carrots and parsnips with honey chopped rosemary and thyme season with salt and pepper and roast in the oven for an hour at 325ordm F or until tender 11 Boil the baby potatoes in heavily salted water until fork tender

12 To serve set up 4 plates and spoon carrot puree on the bottom of the plate in a circle Arrange potatoes carrots and parsnips around the plate place Napa cabbage in the middle and place brisket on top Spoon the reduced braising liquid over the meat

16

As Nemeth chats with customers other vendors and friends who stop by her enthusiastic greetings and joyous laughter are hard to ignore mdash this is a woman who clearly likes people In fact she loves them Warm hearty and full of surprises the words used to describe Nemethrsquos personality can just as easily be used to describe her soup

The Primal Soup Co is a fairly new entity mdash the frozen containers of soup with flavours like Mango Butternut Squash Spinach Artichoke and Feta and Thai Coconut Chicken first showed up at the Market on MacLeod (then the

Going To MarketPrimal Soup Company Finds Its Homeby ELIZABETH CHORNEY-BOOTH photography by INGRID KUENZEL

If you happen to spy Margaret Nemeth at one of her Primal Soup Company booths at the Crossroads Market or the Market on MacLeod yoursquoll immediately see that the energetic atmosphere of a Farmersrsquo Market suits her

Kingsland Farmersrsquo Market) in 2011 mdash but Nemeth is not new to the food and beverage game

Long-time Calgarians may recognize the Primal name and the taste of Nemethrsquos homemade soups from the now defunct Primal Grounds Cappuccino Bar and Eatery in Killarney which Nemeth owned and ran from 1996 through to 2010

Nemeth opened that business after a career in oil and gas and the stand-alone cafeacute was a solid success for her Not only did it serve up great coffee Nemeth quickly made a name for herself with her homemade soup creations All homemade and gluten-free (due to Nemethrsquos own dietary restrictions) Primal Grounds was catering to people with gluten intolerances long before it became fashionable

ldquoWe were pioneers and it was so much funrdquo Nemeth says ldquoThere were lots of ups and downs but it was a good liferdquo

ldquoWhen yoursquore in a market you have to give people reasons to stoprdquo

Margaret Nemeth

17

Nemeth sold the cafeacute when a real estate developer made her an offer she couldnrsquot refuse but she still felt the urge to be around people and feed them So she set up shop in the markets - first the Market on MacLeod and then in January of 2015 she opened a stall in the rebranded Crossroads Market

Elizabeth Chorney-Booth is a Calgary-based writer and co-founderco-editor of RollingSpooncom and Wapawekkacom She enjoys exploring the connection between music and food through interviews with musicians and chefs

Primal Soup also sells lunch items like gourmet macaroni and cheese sandwiches and homemade pies and pastries so that market wanderers can stop by the stall and grab a full lunch while perusing the soup cooler for something to take home for a future meal

ldquoWhen yoursquore in a market you have to give people reasons to stoprdquo Nemeth says ldquoSo we offer things to go with the soup which also gives them ideas for what they can do at home Or sometimes theyrsquoll come for a sandwich and then theyrsquoll look at the soups You have to give people reasons to be in this spacerdquo

ldquoWe were pioneers and it was so much funrdquo

Whatever Nemeth is doing it seems to be working Between the two farmersrsquo markets and specialty retailers like the Market on 17th Sunnyside Market and SPUD delivery boxes Primal Soup Co sells over 1000 containers of soup every week Nemeth develops the recipes herself but has hired a full-time chef to keep up with the demand Personality and strategic stall locations in busy farmersrsquo markets alone isnrsquot enough to move that kind of volume of soup mdash while Nemeth has made smart business decisions over the course of Primalrsquos various incarnations the key to her success really lies in the product itself Everything is made from scratch without the aid of pre-bought soup bases and Nemeth uses seasonal ingredients (only 20 to 30 of her 50 soup varieties are ever available at any given time) supporting her neighbours at the markets when possible Her meat stocks are built from organic chicken bones Wintersrsquo turkey carcasses and duck bones from fellow market vendor Green Eggs and Ham to build a rich and delicious broth ldquoI layer my soupsrdquo Nemeth says ldquoI donrsquot just throw everything in the pot together And there has to be a twist in every one There has to be something

that you donrsquot expect mdash a surprise in every boxrdquo

To bring things full circle Nemeth has a new venture that just opened kitty corner to her Primal Soup stall in the Crossroads Market a beautiful and shiny new Primal Grounds coffee location With a long counter for people to sit at for as long as they like (Nemeth jokes that itrsquos the perfect place for bored spouses to sit while their partners shop the market) itrsquos an updated nod to what got Primal Soup started in the first place

And itrsquos also a testament to Nemethrsquos dedication to market life mdash the lack of control she has over her own hours and some other aspects arenrsquot perfect but the busyness the proximity to like-minded vendors and most of all the people she gets to interact with on a constant basis has put Nemeth exactly where she belongs ldquoYoursquore only as strong as the market is collectivelyrdquo she says ldquoItrsquos different than being a restaurant but I have to say itrsquos the funnest thing Irsquove ever donerdquo

ldquoThere has to be something that you donrsquot

expect mdash a surprise in every boxrdquo

18

Soup Kitchenstory and photography by DAN CLAPSON

The fresh hang-up-your-winter-jacket feeling is finally in the air ndash and that my friends is a wonderful thing Gone are the days where wersquove looked forward to spooning into a big bowl of creamy soup or sitting down to some chicken noodle soup to help shake off the winter sniffles These days Irsquom more concerned with light and bright flavours and less calorie-ridden meals

so I wonrsquot look completely undesirable in a swimsuit come June

Here are two great recipes that just happen to be vegan but are bursting with flavour

Serves 5 Total cook time 35 minutes

6 cups (15 L) vegetable broth1 cup (240 mL) white wine1 cup (240 mL) water2 Tbs (30 mL) tomato paste2 cups dry green lentils1 red onion halved and thinly sliced1 small fennel bulb halved and thinly sliced2 tsp (10 mL) maple syrup1 tsp dried oreganofrac12 tsp ground turmericfrac12 tsp chili flakesfrac12 tsp ground cinnamon1 pinch nutmeg2 cups thinly sliced red Swiss chardTo taste salt and pepper

1 Place broth wine water and tomato paste in a large pot and bring to a simmer on medium-high heat Add lentils and cook for 15 minutes

2 Add onion fennel maple syrup and spices and continue to cook for 15 minutes

Spiced Green Lentil and Chard Soup

3 Add Swiss chard and cook until leaves are tender about 2-3 minutes Season to taste with salt and pepper and serve

Dan Clapson is a freelance food writer and columnist in Calgary When hersquos not writing about Canadarsquos amazing culinary scene he is likely listening to 80s rock or 90s boy bands Follow him on twitter dansgoodside

Spinach and Cashew Soup with Poblano and Scallion Salsa

Serves 4 Total cook time 30 minutes not including cashew soak time

Soup1frac12 cups roasted cashews2 cups (500 mL) water4 cups (1 L) vegetable broth4 cups cooked spinach1 Tbs (15 mL) apple cider vinegar1 Tbs (15 mL) maple syrupfrac12 tsp cayenne peppersalt and pepper to tastecashew butter for garnish optional

1 Place cashews and water in a container cover and let sit on counter overnight

2 Combine cashews water and remaining soup ingredients in a blender and pureacutee until very smooth

3 Pour contents of blender through a fine mesh strainer into a medium pot Bring to a simmer on medium-high heat and cook for 15 minutes Season to taste with salt and pepper and keep warm on stove until ready to serve

4 Place a couple of spoonfuls of the salsa into each bowl and ladle soup around it Add a couple of dollops of cashew butter for a little extra richness

Salsa1 large poblano pepper halved and seeds removed1 bunch scallions2 Tbs (30 mL) canola oil2 Tbs fresh mint roughly chopped1 tsp (5 mL) lemon juicefrac12 tsp cane sugarfrac12 tsp chili flakessalt and pepper to taste

1 Preheat oven to 400ordm F

2 Place poblano halves and scallions on a baking sheet drizzle with oil and roast until slightly charred about 15-18 minutes

3 Remove from oven allow to cool slightly then give them a rough chop

4 Add to a bowl with remaining ingredients and toss to combine Season liberally with salt and pepper

20

Photograph courtesy California Wine Institute

Ever since Napa Valley cabernet sauvignons and chardonnays bested their more historic counterparts from Bordeaux and Burgundy in the now-famous Judgment of Paris tasting in 1976 California and its flagship region have carried the torch for the bold dense fruity lushly oaked wines that brought them worldwide fame

Forty years later this sun-drenched style of wines remains both unapologetically enjoyable and wildly popular and Napa is on the bucket list of any devoted wine tourist But as tastes and trends start to evolve away from a focus on power and concentration towards greater elegance and food-friendliness winemakers in California are again taking to the frontier gravitating towards the statersquos physical and climatic extremes to explore new boundaries of flavour and complexity Californiarsquos cooler corners

California Coolby PETER VETSCH

California is a land of frontiers dangling on the edge of the Pacific home of the Gold Rush and epicentre of the New Worldrsquos insurgence onto the global wine scene

are fast becoming its second face in the world of wine

Sonoma County north of San Francisco and just west of Napa is probably Californiarsquos second best-known region almost equally recognized for its cabernets chardonnays and zinfandels The largest subregion in the county taking up almost a third of its total area is the western Sonoma Coast too expansive at 500000 acres to have a distinct identity

However the western border of this appellation a razorrsquos edge straddling the ocean locally known as the ldquotruerdquo Sonoma Coast showcases the regionrsquos true character - extreme viticulture wet cool and always windy at elevations up to 2000 feet balanced on the San Andreas Fault with many vines growing above the fog line and constantly exposed to the throes of the Pacific Pinot noir takes on a unique expression here on low-yielding vines in the cool above the rest of Sonoma offering both remarkable purity of fruit and astonishing acidity and structure

Pinot is also predominant in the relatively new Santa Rita Hills subregion of the Santa Ynez Valley located an hour and a half northwest of Los Angeles and similarly perched right alongside the ocean The maritime influence dominates the microclimate and counteracts the California sun with fog and cool breezes to the point where this coastal spot becomes a near ideal substitute for chilly Burgundy Here the core Burgundian varietals of pinot noir and chardonnay thrive in a particularly striking edgy way

Santa Ynez is the only wine region in the western hemisphere where the arearsquos defining mountain range runs east-west instead of north-south creating a sort of maritime wind tunnel that sucks cold Pacific air eastward This leads to some of the largest diurnal (day to night) temperature shifts in North America and allows inland grapes ripening in the scorching daytime heat to recharge and maintain acidity at night This special geological feature allows a wide range of reds in Santa Ynez to be juicy but still structured bold yet balanced from cabernet and merlot to syrah and grenache

Halfway between the Sonoma Coast to the north and the Santa Rita Hills to the south along yet another coastline

California can comfortably both provide continuity

and defy stereotype

Wine Picks

Peter is a local lawyer by day and wine writer by night maintaining his own wine blog at popandpourca He is always on the lookout for the next way to experience wine and the next good bottle to try

A LITTLE SIBLING RIVALRY NEVER HURT ANYBODY

FOUR SETTINGS ONE PHILOSOPHY crmrcom338 - 17th Avenue SW

c i l a n t ro

747 Lake Bonavista Dr SE113 - 8th Avenue SW 340 - 17th Avenue SW

Sequoia Grove 2012 Cabernet Sauvignon (Napa Valley)Textbook cabernet from Naparsquos heart of Rutherford with deep black fruit mint and cedarhellip and a survivable price tag CSPC +740382 $56

Hartford Court Landrsquos Edge Vineyard Pinot Noir (Sonoma Coast)The ferocity of the Sonoma Coast somehow creates the picture of elegance in this juicy yet delicate pinot CSPC +717210 $60

Domaine de la Cote 2013 Pinot Noir (Sta Rita Hills) Seriously pushes the boundaries picked almost insanely early for low-alcohol herbal pomegranate and rhubarb acidic tension and energy CSPC +761893 $58

Alice May Crosswinds Syrah (Santa Ynez Valley) A syrahviognier Cote Rotie-style co-ferment that matches Cali ripeness with surprising verve and delicacy CSPC +761131 $28

Ridge 2013 Geyserville (Santa Cruz Mountains)This will change your expectations of zinfandel A zin-heavy field blend it combines the best of its mountain altitude and the California sun CSPC +426379 $55

just south of San Jose the wineries of the Santa Cruz Mountains prove again that those seeking to make modern moderate wines in California head both west and up The highest vineyards in Santa Cruz despite being just miles from the ocean are at 2600 feet this significant altitude and the cool Pacific climate results in chiseled wines with controlled ripeness and serious staying power

The region is both expansive and miniscule with only 1500 of its 480000 acres currently planted to grapes and its very-California plantings (cabernet chardonnay pinot noir zinfandel and merlot) all take on an Old World character and rusticity from its rugged terrain and stony mineral-laden soils Despite the challenges associated with growing grapes on a cool rock face Santa Cruz is a state leader in sustainable growing practices

The friendly sunny face of California wine is surely here to stay but Santa Cruz Santa Ynez and the Sonoma Coast are permanent proof that the state is readily capable of more than one expression With its range of climate and terrain California can comfortably both provide continuity and defy stereotype

22

En GardeA Beginnerrsquos Guide To Knives And Their Usesby ANNA BROOKS

Itrsquos difficult to imagine that sharp little number thatrsquos slicing away to the rhythm of your favourite cooking music (or to the beating of child-size fists hungry for dinner) was more often used for combat not chopping carrots

Despite King Louis XIVrsquos decree that the tips of knives be ground down to reduce violence in the mid-1600s kitchen knives still (for quite pointed reasons) make popular murder weapons

But we wonrsquot get into grisly stories of guts and gore here Whether yoursquore a chef extraordinaire or the person whose knife knowledge goes as far as cutting

vegetables with a steak knife there are some things everyone should know about knives

The first major thing we must insist upon is putting down that expensive 14-piece knife set As most knife experts can attest to three main knives can cover almost all the work that a layman cook needs to do in the kitchen

23

Three main knives can cover almost all the work that a layman cook needs

to do in the kitchen

Chefrsquos Knife Your standard knife for mincing and slicing vegetables and meat a chefrsquos knife is typically 20-25 cm long but can range all the way up to 36 cm

Luke Pickett from Knifewear is a sight to see wielding some wickedly sharp

handcrafted Japanese models but despite their carnivorous look Pickett said therersquos really nothing to fear

ldquoThere are a lot of people who are scared of really large knivesrdquo Pickett said ldquoBut having good quality kitchen equipment will make your life easierrdquo

For beginners a standard 20 cm chefrsquos knife (although Pickett said blade length is purely based on personal preference) is best to start with but a Japanese Santoku knife mdash an elegant slightly smaller version of a chefrsquos knife mdash will certainly get the job er meal done

Paring KnifeOn the other side of the knife spectrum is the pocket-sized paring knife (note carrying knives in pockets not recommended)

Regan Johnson assistant manager at The Cookbook Co said besides what the individual using a steak knife to cut everything might think the small intricate work required of a paring knife (such as peeling and trimming) should not be done on a cutting board

ldquoParing is anything you can be doing in the air mdash yoursquore not ever supposed to use a paring knife on a boardrdquo she explained

Johnson added that for someone like herself who does almost as much blade-wielding as a samurai she also recommends a utility knife

which is a hybrid of a chefrsquos knife and a paring knife

ldquoI reach for my utility knife a lotrdquo she said ldquoItrsquos got that shape of a paring knife but is longer Itrsquos just for those things in between that you donrsquot need your giant chefrsquos knife forrdquo

Bread KnifeThe last of the big three is of course a bread knife Have you ever tried to cut a loaf of bread with a straight blade Not so easy (or safe) a task

Itrsquos sometimes difficult to do but no matter the type of knife yoursquore using itrsquos important to try and slice as opposed to chopping or sawing It

is quite tempting (and often seems easier) to saw away at the crispy crust of a floured loaf of sourdough but Knifewearrsquos Pickett said sawing can

be a slippery slope to your bread knifersquos grave

ldquoIf you slice you can use the entire blade and itrsquos a lot sharper along the edgerdquo he explained ldquoItrsquos important to get a good bread knife because you canrsquot sharpen them like you can any other sort of kniferdquo

The Big Three

24

Having good quality kitchen equipment will

make your life easier

Anna Brooks is an award-winning journalist from Calgary Alberta She has worked internationally in Thailand and Africa and has been published in Metro BeatRoute Magazine and the Calgary Journal She also enjoys animal rights fantasy fiction and whiskey sours

Tips and TricksOf course you can adorn your kitchen with the countless others belonging to the knife family mdash cleavers carvers boning knives cheese knives etc mdash but if yoursquore not planning on hacking through solid bone anytime soon you probably donrsquot need to spend $200 on a meat cleaver

But there are some other knife-related implements that are important to have in your kitchen

First off a proper cutting board While plastic cutting boards are versatile and can be chucked in the dishwasher wood is really the best way to go Cutting boards are the quickest way to ruin a knife so steer clear of fancy-looking glass or granite boards mdash they are the antagonists of our story

Itrsquos also not a bad idea to have a knife honer on hand As a reminder (or for

those who had no idea what that random rod in the kitchen was used for) honers are for honing not sharpening

ldquoWith use the metal fibres in a knife edge can get bent to one side or another All yoursquore doing with honing is straightening those fibres back outrdquo Johnson from The Cookbook Co explained ldquoSharpening means yoursquore actually removing material and grinding the metal down to a finer edgerdquo

Johnson added that while you can sharpen at home she always recommends getting your knives sharpened professionally at least once a year depending on how much theyare used

Before you go back to making your lazy-day grilled cheese sandwich or that complex stew yoursquove spent hours on we just want to remind you of whatrsquos called ldquothe pinch griprdquo

Not to sound snobbish but grabbing a knife by the handle and hacking away is poor form Use your thumb and index finger to grasp the blade and then wrap your remaining fingers under the bolster of the knife Shape your other hand into a claw to protect your fingertips from accidentally getting lopped off firmly grasp the object to be cut and slice away

If this knowledge was present in the 17th century perhaps old King Louis XIV would be tipping his crown to more cooks not kitchen knife combatants

25

Times Are A Changing Unexpected Take-Outs

by LINDA GARSON and DIANA NG photography by INGRID KUENZEL

Therersquos no denying that many of our cityrsquos restaurants are feeling the effects of the current economic downturn fewer people working downtown ndash indeed fewer people working altogether and so looking to save money by eating out less means many bricks and mortar restaurants are having to get creative with ways to fully utilise their kitchens and staff

High rents exacerbate the situation so itrsquos time for Calgary restaurateurs to think outside the box and proving to be the innovative entrepreneurs that wersquore known for many are diversifying their offerings to include take-out options both raw and cooked

Catch amp The Oyster Bar launched their ldquoBuy Catchrdquo program where you can pick up fresh Ocean Wise seafood to take home and cook (complete with recipes) along with house-made clam chowder and sauces nearly two years ago There are big savings to be had over dining in with no costs for linen or staff and no expectation to tip

Here are four Calgary eateries also getting clever with take-out

programs that are not widely publicised - and may

open a few eyes

26

Centini Restaurant

Itrsquos not a cookie cutter program but the magic of Centinirsquos take-out is that you can ask the kitchen for ideas of what you should have for dinner People even text the servers for suggestions and to order Loyal customers mostly busy businessmen were asking if they catered but without the staff for such a service Centini started offering to prepare dishes for them to cook themselves

Now you can get your favourite restaurant dishes from rack of lamb with red wine demi-glace AAA Alberta beef tenderloin with Gorgonzola pan sauce and sea bass with ginger cream sauce ready to cook at home ldquoWersquore not going to open a bricks and mortar restaurant down south but our food is going thererdquo says Chevonne Centini Theyrsquore seeing pick-ups such as for people stuck at home with a new baby and even 40 people for a funeral

Boxwood

Itrsquos hard to believe that the quality of food coming from the sister restaurant to River Cafe can be had at home and we are not talking about leftovers When

People take home uncooked homemade pasta with sauce separately and even bread dough and often freeze it to cook later or pick up on a Friday evening so everything is prepared ready for Saturday dinner When buying from a restaurant yoursquore getting top quality perfectly trimmed meat everything is done for you - therersquos no shopping

around and even the parsley is chopped And as everything is custom-made all allergies are catered for too

Centini gets fish delivered once or twice every day and it may come as a surprise but with a chef garde manger that spent 15 years in Japan they have customers coming just to take out sushi

you go home to an empty fridge it feels like the only options you have are fast food or pizza Not so

Boxwoodrsquos fresh and seasonal fare is also available to take home While you wonrsquot

be able to enjoy the quaint atmosphere of the restaurant you can order anything on the menu for take out with its special offering being the whole rotisserie free-range chicken which serves two to four people for $40

Many bricks and mortar restaurants are

having to get creative with ways to fully utilise their

kitchens and staff

You will need to call a few hours ahead (the website states before 200 pm) for enough notice for the chicken but for the rest of the selection like its soups and sandwiches you can simply look up the menu online and call to place an order For a perfect night in may we suggest starting with its bison tartare then moving onto the porchetta and another main before finishing off the meal with a slice of pie

27

Gaucho

For most people the elaborate setup of Brazilian barbecue is one of its biggest attractions You may not know this and while you may not be able to take home the lively decor of Gaucho you can actually take the meal home

The spit packed tightly with freshly roasted meats the sign at the table that signals yoursquore ready for more and the roasted and caramelized pineapple that tops off the meal all contribute to the atmosphere but if all you want are the meats and sides for a hefty dinner you can certainly order the meal as a take-out

Order any of the four options (top sirloin pork loin chicken wings or mild sausage) and add three sides from the list of eight which includes a variety of salads black bean stew and rice And because you canrsquot just have one kind of meat when it comes to Brazilian barbecue you can choose additional

Safari Grill

The marinated thinly sliced BBQ short beef ribs at Safari Grill are already a must-have for those in the know but we suspect even regulars will be surprised to discover that you can pick

up uncooked ribs with your choice of seven marinades to take home and BBQ yourself

With none of the associated costs of dining in $65 buys you enough ribs for 10 people and customers actually drive

meats for $4 each Finally choose the sauce yoursquod like to accompany your meal Orders for over five people will come in a big white box and individual

orders come will in regular take-out containers For big parties do call a few hours ahead All you need to make at home is the caipirinha

from Saskatchewan to take away 10-15 lb bags of these uncooked marinated ribs Some people call and ask for them to be marinated and frozen in 5 lb bags to enjoy later as just 5-7 minutes each side on a high flame has the raw ribs ready to eat

And itrsquos not only ribs that people BBQ at home Mishkaki are skewers of marinated chicken beef and prawns and for as little as $3 each you can have a very inexpensive BBQ feast Marinated raw lamb chops are also available or ask for Samaki - a marinated whole tilapia that comes with a basting sauce to brush on You can even get uncooked samosas to cook in your oven at home

All Safari Grillrsquos regular menu can be ordered for take-out but there is no published price list for uncooked dishes so people call to order and ask - but when yoursquore picking up look out for the new jars of house-made mango and lemon pickles

28

Step By Step Go Nuts With Homemade Nutella And Waffles story and photography by NATALIE FINDLAY

There are many nutritional benefits packed into these small filberts They are rich in dietary fibre packed with folate an excellent source of vitamin E and contain mono-unsaturated fatty acids that

can help lower bad cholesterol and raise good cholesterol By making your own Nutella at home you can control the amount of sugar that is added making this delicious spread basicallyhellip a health food

Hazelnuts have a tried and true following for taking the lead role in the chocolate spread Nutella This long-standing love affair has lasted simply because they add a distinct but subtle flavour to the chocolate Truly a match that is better together than apart

These delicious and super-easy waffles make a great base for your homemade Nutella With the addition of ground hazelnuts to the batter you can deepen the hazelnut flavour and pack in more health benefits

Waffles with raspberries and white chocolate spread

29

Natalie is a freelance writer photographer and pastry chef A graduate of Cordon Bleursquos pastry program she manages her own business too to create custom-made cakes

Using the same waffle recipe from above and switching out the mashed banana and adding frac12 a medium orange ndash juice and zest ndash to the batter you have a delicious orange waffle that will highlight the white chocolate hazelnut spread recipe below

Homemade White Chocolate Hazelnut Spread Makes 1frac12 cups

1frac12 cups (200 g) whole hazelnutsfrac12 cup (70 g) icing sugar2 Tbs (30 mL) canola oil1 tsp (5 mL) vanilla extract1 cup (250g) white chocolate

Follow directions for Homemade Nutella and add the melted white chocolate at the end Pulse to combine

Macerated Raspberries with Orange Serves 6

250 g fresh raspberriesfrac12 medium orange zest and juice1 Tbs icing sugarfrac12 tsp vanilla extract

Add all ingredients into a medium bowl and stir to combine Let sit for about 1 hour

Serve your warm waffles topped with your white chocolate homemade hazelnut spread macerated berries and a dollop of whipped cream or ice cream

Note Homemade Nutella has more texture than store bought and will last around 1 month in the fridge Waffles can be made ahead and frozen Thaw and reheat in the waffle maker or the oven

Banana Fruit compoteMakes enough for 6

3 ripe bananas peeled sliced into rounds2 Tbs (30 g) butter2 Tbs (30 g) brown sugar1frac12 tsp (8 mL) vanilla extract1frac12 tsp (8 mL) bourbon

1 Add butter and sugar to a sauteacute pan over medium heat As they melt stir to combine

2 Add vanilla and bourbon than add sliced bananas and sauteacute until warmed through

Serve your warm waffles topped with your homemade hazelnut spread sauteacuteed bananas and a dollop of whipped cream or ice cream

Homemade Nutella Makes 1frac12 cups

1frac12 cups (200 g) whole hazelnutsfrac34 cup (100g) icing sugar3 Tbs (45 mL) canola oilfrac14 cup (30 g) cocoa powder1 tsp (5 mL) vanilla extract

1 Toast hazelnuts on a baking pan in a preheated 350ordm F oven for 10 - 15 minutes Keep an eye on them to make sure they donrsquot start to burn Remove from oven and let cool to the touch

2 Wrap the nuts in a kitchen towel and rub together to remove the skins This should remove most of the skins

3 Place skinless hazelnuts in a food processor on high Process the nuts until they form a smooth paste and the oils start to separate (about 5 minutes) scraping the bowl often

4 Add the icing sugar cocoa powder vanilla and canola oil to the food processor and process until fully incorporated scraping bowl of processor as needed (about 2 minutes)

Hazelnut Banana WafflesMakes 6

frac12 cup (80 g) all purpose flour1 tsp baking powderfrac12 tsp baking sodaPinch sea salt1 Tbs (15 g) icing sugar1 Tbs (10 g) ground hazelnuts6 grates whole nutmeg1 tsp ground cinnamonfrac12 cup (125 mL) buttermilk1 egg yolk2 Tbs (30 g) butter meltedfrac12 small banana peeled and mashed1 egg white

1 Sift together all dry ingredients (except the ground hazelnuts) in a medium bowl Add the ground hazelnuts and combine

2 Mash the half banana in a small bowl with a fork Add the egg buttermilk and melted butter

3 Whisk the egg white to stiff peaks

4 Whisk the wet ingredients into the dry and fold the egg white into the mixture

5 Follow the directions for your waffle pan to cook waffles for around 5 minutes or until cooked through

Note Remember to bring the waffle pan up to temperature in between each batch of waffles

Hazelnut Banana Waffles with Nutella

30

Citrus Beer Friendsby DAVID NUTTALL

This is when the taste andor aroma of a beer can remind the drinker of anything from an orange drink or lemonade to grapefruit soda There are several ways to achieve this character and these beers are becoming more and more popular every day

Hops provide the bitterness in beer and out of the literally hundreds of varieties a few impart citrus notes into the aroma and flavour Cascade and Citra are examples of two of the most popular hops used in several styles of beer most notably the American IPA or India Pale Ale Cascade hops have been around for over 40 years and it is the single most popular hop used by the American craft brewing industry It provides a floralspicy character often reminiscent of grapefruit

Citrarsquos name leaves no guessing as to its attributes A relative newcomer this cross breed of UK German and US hop varieties has been around for less than a decade but it is already an extremely popular hop for imparting

One of the great things about beer is its diversity It can come in a myriad of colours and also a wide variety of flavours citrus being one of the most distinct

Dave Nuttall has been in the liquor and event business forever He is a qualified beer judge and ownerpresident of Epicurean Calgary at epicureancalgarycom for ten years

citrus and tropical fruit characteristics to a beer

It has proven very versatile and appears in several beer styles from session ales to IPAs It has also become a favourite hop to use for dry-hopping (adding hops late into the boil) due to the exceptional aromas it produces For even more flavour and aroma craft brewers now commonly enhance these already citrusy IPAs with actual zest peel or juice from citrus fruits to create an IPAFruit Beer hybrid which sells especially well in summer months

Then there is the yeast and many varieties of yeast can produce citrusy esters The unfiltered hefeweizens brewed on both sides of the Atlantic quite often have a lemony flavour Sour beers also showcase the yeast often cultured from Belgian strains

These beers are tart and produce a gamut of flavours many with citrus qualities and some have added fruit - the easiest and most obvious way to create a citrusy beer The Belgians also add different kinds of oranges with spice additions to their wheat ales to create wit beers now emulated all over the world with different citrus (and other) fruits involved in the recipe We also canrsquot forget the radlers which are simply a lager beer mixed with 40-60 fruit juice - often grapefruit or lemonade

Whether itrsquos added fruit the yeast the hops or a combination of all of them citrusy beers are commonplace now Thanks to new hops like Citra and the increasing popularity of wits and sours we can expect this trend to continue

Here are a few local beers with hints of citrus All are also available on tap

Beer comes in a myriad of colours and flavours citrus being one of the

most distinct

Ribstone Creek Great White CombineThis tiny Edgerton Alberta brewery has been knocking it out of the park lately Named after the ubiquitous Alberta summer hailstorm the use of Belgian yeast sweet orange peel and coriander give this beer an orange flavour in the beginning When the four different hop additions kick in it changes more to a sweet lemony flavour This White IPA has a very tropical feel that makes you forget it was made in northern Alberta CSPC +774162 $16 6-pack cans

Wild Rose Cowbell Sour ales are the new Belle of the Ball at craft breweries Often using imported Belgian yeast strains they are tart tangy and wellhellip sour Calgaryrsquos Wild Rose has taken this flavour profile and added kaffir lime leaves This makes the beer more like a refreshing limeade and is less bitter than many of its other sour counterparts CSPC +778093 $17 6-pack bottles

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TICKETS AVAILABLE AT ALBERTABEERFESTIVALSCOM

MAY 6-7 2016FRIDAY3-10 PM BEER GEEK VIP4-10 PM GENERAL ADMISSION

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Citradelic Single Hop IPA Big Rock BreweryWith breweries in two (soon to be three) provinces Big Rock now has multiple locations to develop new beers This is the first one from their Vancouver brewery and is full of lemongrapefruit flavours and tropical aromas This beer showcases the Citra hop fooling one to think that citrus has been added when itrsquos all thanks to the hop CSPC +778593 $15 6-pack bottles

Alley Kat Main SqueezeWhat started out as a summer seasonal has now become a mainstay of this Edmonton brewery A North American style wheat ale with a 50 wheat and 50 barley mix it has added grapefruit juice but tastes more along the lines of pink grapefruit rather than its more bitter cousin CSPC +733630 $17 6-pack bottles

32

story by RENEE KOHLMAN

Cheesecake is one of those classic desserts that almost everyone loves unless of course you have a dairy allergy then yoursquoll stay far far away from it While it may seem too complicated to make at home I assure you that itrsquos not

Spice it up cheesecake

Sure there are a few steps involved but the key thing to remember is to have your eggs and cream cheese at room temperature For the best crack-free cheesecake itrsquos best to bake it in a water bath It yields a light creamy texture and is well worth the effort Cheesecake always tastes better the next day so bake it the day before you want to serve it Now that wersquove got the basics down itrsquos time to have a little fun with the crust filling and toppings

The Base

The classic graham cracker crust is fine but every now and again itrsquos great to switch things up Try

ndash Grinding up ginger cookies They work especially well for a pumpkin cheesecake

ndash Chocolate cookie crumbs are fantastic for caramel peanut butter and raspberry cheesecakes

ndash Add finely chopped nuts oats or seeds to the cookie crumbs for added texture and taste

The Middle

Therersquos something to be said for a straight up vanilla or chocolate cheesecake but with some fun add-ins they could take your cheesecake to the next level of deliciousness Try

ndash Swirling tahini dulce de leche salted caramel or chocolate fudge sauce into a creamy vanilla filling

ndash Mix in chopped chocolate peanut butter cups to a chocolate filling

ndash Drop fresh berries (raspberries blueberries blackberries) on top of a vanilla filling

ndash Stir in chopped candied ginger dried cherries or cranberries chopped toasted nuts to the filling

ndash Swap some of the cream cheese with ricotta mascarpone cheese or even strained cottage cheese

ndash You can never go wrong with lemon zest in a vanilla cheesecake

Have a little fun with the crust filling

and toppings

33

Apple Crumble CheesecakeMakes about 12-14 servings Total cook and prep time 3 hours (plus overnight chilling)

I love apple crisp and I love cheesecake This recipe is a fine marriage of both and makes a more than acceptable breakfast The base is a crumble of oats and flour the middle is classic cheesecake and itrsquos topped with cinnamon apples and a buttery oat streusel

Crust 2 cups large flake oats1 cup all purpose flour cup packed brown sugarfrac34 cup butter meltedfrac12 tsp salt

Cheesecake Layer3 - 225 g packages cream cheese at room temperature cup granulated sugar1 tsp (5 mL) vanilla3 large eggs at room temperature cup (80 mL) whipping cream

Apple Layer2 apples peeled cored and sliced about 3-4 mm thick1 tsp ground cinnamonfrac12 tsp salt

Streusel Layer1 cup large flake oatsfrac12 cup all-purpose flourfrac12 cup brown sugarfrac12 cup butter softened1 tsp ground cinnamon

Preheat the oven to 375ordm F

1 Butter the bottom and sides of a 9-inch springform pan with sides that are at least 7 cm high Wrap the bottom of the pan in aluminum foil so it comes at least halfway up the sides

2 Combine the crust ingredients in a large bowl Press the crust evenly into the pan and place on a baking sheet Bake for 10 minutes Remove from oven and let it cool on a wire rack

3 Reduce heat to 325ordm F Put a kettle of water on to boil Have a large roasting pan close by

4 Using a stand mixer with a paddle attachment beat the cream cheese at medium speed for 4 minutes scraping down the sides once or twice until it is soft and creamy With the mixer still running add the sugar and beat for another 4 minutes scraping down the sides of the bowl at least twice Beat in the vanilla Add the eggs one at a time beating for 1 minute after each addition and scraping the bowl Reduce speed to low and add the whipping cream

5 Toss the sliced apples with the cinnamon and salt in a small bowl Combine all of the streusel ingredients in a medium bowl and mix well

6 Place the springform pan in the roasting pan Give the cheesecake batter a good stir and pour it on top of the crust Arrange the apples on top and sprinkle the streusel on top of the apples

7 Place in the oven on the middle rack and pour the hot water into the roasting pan so it comes halfway up the sides of the springform pan

8 Bake the cheesecake for 1frac12 hours Turn off the heat prop open the oven door and let the cheesecake hang inside for another hour

9 Carefully remove from the oven and take out the cheesecake from the hot water bath Remove the foil and let the cheesecake come to room temperature on a wire rack Cover the top lightly and refrigerate for at least 4 hours but overnight is best The next day remove the sides of the pan and serve the cake

Renee is a food writer and pastry chef living in beautiful Saskatoon Saskatchewan Her columns appear in The Saskatoon StarPhoenix and her desserts can be enjoyed at Riverside Country Club Also check out her blog wwwsweetsugarbeancom

The Toppings

Cheesecake with no fun toppings is like a salad with no dressing it just doesnrsquot reach its full flavour potential Try

ndash Salted caramel roasted strawberry sauce or warm chocolate sauce

ndash A rhubarbcardamom compote is divine on top of vanilla cheesecake kissed with a bit of lemon zest Cherry compote is divine with chocolate cheesecake

ndash Have a favourite jam Melt it down with a tiny bit of water and drizzle it on top of your favourite cheesecake

ndash Candied nuts and citrus rind chocolate shavings even crumbled cookies are a fun way to add texture to the cheesecake

ndash Never underestimate the power of fresh seasonal berries and a well-made cheesecakeMacerate them in a little sugar and minced mint or basil and they make a lovely topping Donrsquot forget the whipped cream

34

Think about that for a moment and let that sink in like a cherry in your drink

So how old is ice in bars Well thatrsquos a whole story on its own however the Old Fashioned has been talked about in one form or another since the beginning of the 19th Century The first appearance of this classic cocktail was in the Balance and Columbian Repository newspaper in 1806 as such ldquoA stimulating liquor composed of spirits of any kind sugar water and bittersrdquo

The Old FashionedAn Iconic Drink That Has Stood The Test Of Time

by BRICE PERESSINI

Sohelliphow old is the Old Fashioned The Old Fashioned is as old as ice in bars

When you follow these instructions and put this finely-crafted cocktail into your hand swirl around the ice gaze through the caramel-coloured liquid in the glass and contemplate all that has gone into it you can rest assured you are holding a drink that has delighted taste buds for generations The Old Fashioned however has not always been held in high regard There was a time not too long ago where this fine concoction was an unbalanced fruity watered-down pale imitation of itself More recently

there has been a renaissance involved with this invigorating intoxicant and you can and should expect a proper cocktail when it is ordered at a fine establishment

When this drink is properly prepared it should be in perfect balance (as any proper drink should be) The sweetness of the sugar should not cover the flavour of the bourbon and the bitters should add to not overpower the flavour of the whiskey When the Old Fashioned is well made it is as close to cocktail perfection as a sophisticated patron could expect

Befriend a bespoke barkeep at an upstanding establishment and you will be in trusted hands If you find yourself at home and wanting for a nightcap look no further than the Old Fashioned

Enjoy friends

Old Fashioned Recipe

2 oz Buffalo Trace Bourbon (or your personal favourite)4 dashes Angostura Aromatic Bitters1 raw sugar cube

Muddle the sugar and bitters together with a touch of warm water in a rocks glass Add the bourbon then add ice Stir and garnish with an orange peel and cherry (optional)

Brice is a competition cocktail bartender who plies his trade behind the wood at Chefbar Whisk(e)y is his poison Neat

35

Shoulder Season Wines

by JACLYN ADOMEIT

Wines For Cool Weather

Refreshing white wines match with sunny patios and hot days while bold tannic red wines earn their keep by a fireplace on a winter night Common sense But what about the shoulder season What if yoursquore eating sea bass on a rainy spring day Or sipping wine on a patio during an uncommonly warm April afternoon

Photograph courtesy Tom Firth

36

Wine not only pairs with food but with temperatures and seasons A bright sauvignon blanc can taste flat and acidic on a cold night at no fault of the wine or the drinker Some white wines are other-worldly at the vineyard tasting room in the summer but fall flat when you pull them out for dinner guests in the winter

The change in taste is likely due to a number of factors Anatomically it is your sinus cavities creating the change Higher atmospheric pressures allow your nose to pick out subtle aromas while lower pressures bring out a winersquos acidity and harsh tannins CO2 degasses from liquid at low pressure leaving wines dull and flat too

Serving temperature can greatly affect a winersquos aromatics white wines chilled to near-freezing have dull aromas (Tip allow the bottle a half hour on the counter before popping the cork This will allow the aromatics to warm up enhancing the flavour)

Lastly your own palate will be partial to different flavours depending on sun snow wind and sleet but as a rule of thumb higher alcohol white wines (approximately 13 percent or more) will warm the soul and pair best with cooler weather

Here are some wine selections to go for when it is not too hot and not too cold so you can choose a pairing thatrsquos just right

Fiano

Yoursquoll notice that many of the best white wines for cold weather are grown in hot places Hot climates mean a longer growing season more sugar which leads to higher alcohol and often more robust and tropical flavours All of this is true for fiano - seldom grown outside of Campania in southern Italy Fiano produces age-worthy wines which are rich nutty and delicious

Feudi Di San Gregorio 2014 Campania Fiano di Avellino Italy A beautiful floral bouquet with candied lemon followed by honey-coated hazelnuts on the palate Worth cellaring for a few seasons The perfect dance partner for poultry CSPC +708589 $33

Viognier

Viognier is a white varietal that is best consumed at slightly higher temperatures A chilly glass of viognier will leave you with acid maybe oak and not much else Allow it to warm and you may experience peach pear and toasted almond

Traditionally grown in the warm south of France viognier is often a higher alcohol white wine with rich tropical flavours The heat of the alcohol with tropical flavours and lower acid makes viognier the perfect wine to sip while watching a late spring snowfall

Paul Mas 2014 Languedoc-Roussillon Viognier France Brimming with apricot almond lemon and ripe peach Contains hints of warming oak Pair with something savoury baked brie or spinach-filled puff pastry CSPC + 740978 $17

Dry Roseacute

There is so much more to be had from roseacute than white zinfandel And no itrsquos not just a mix of red and white wine The best roseacute is made from red skinned grapes that only sit on their skins for up to a day and a half to borrow colour and flavour then are fermented and processed

Refined examples of roseacute wines are often dry and have deep aromas of red fruits mild tannins and are savoury instead of sweet The French and Spanish craft great examples of dry roseacutes that are either a single varietal or a blend of grapes such as mourvegravedre grenache syrah or tempranillo

Muga Roseacute 2014 Rioja Grenache Viura and Tempranillo Spain A tamed Rioja Orange blossom woven together with strawberry and a palate of cherry and savoury soft cheese Ideal for charcuterie CSPC + 710261 $16

Orange Wine

Never heard of orange wine A commercial demand for natural wines has fostered a resurgence in ancient wine making practices While roseacute wines are reds that have been produced using white wine making practices orange wines are created from white grapes submitted to maceration and allowed to sit on the skins before fermentation the same practice employed in red winemaking

Unlike any white you have tasted orange wines are full-bodied have mild tannins and deep flavours - the characteristics that allow red wines to bring warmth to cool nights A must try for any wine buff

Allow the bottle a half hour on the counter

before popping the cork

The Bicicleta wines are characterized by their fruity expression and for offering more than

the traditional strains a clear example of this range`s innovation style and creativity

Cono Sur Vineyards amp Winery ConoSurVineyards ConoSurWinesconosurcom

The brewhouse at Wild Rose

Jaclynrsquos first passion was winemaking Shersquos worked in vineyards cellars and restaurants Currently she is a writer who daylights as an environmental engineer She believes that a good life like a good wine is not complete without balance

Nichol 2013 Naramata Pinot Gris Canada A Canadian example of orange wine with backbone Flavours of caramel apple roast nuts orange rind and peach CSPC +504159 $31

Oaked chardonnay

In and out with popular palates oak and chardonnay have been partners for a long time Oak paired with chardonnay can bring out butter richness toasted vanilla tree fruit and in the best examples shimmering minerality That is because oak aging is often accompanied by a malolactic fermentation process that smooths out rigid acids into lactic acid - the acid found in milk

Chardonnay is a grape of many talents and encounters a great diversity of production styles It is oaked examples that pair best with pensive rainy days They are full-bodied warming and complex

Wente Morning Fog 2014 Livermore Valley (California) Chardonnay USA Half oak-aged and malolactic-fermented half crisp and fresh this chardonnay brings together green apple vanilla and toasted oak A friend to cream sauce and roast chicken CSPC +175430 $18

In a province of mutable weather let your wine choices be as varied as the ever changing winds Cheers and herersquos to refined full-bodied cool-weather wines

38

Once yoursquore done with your magazine cover shoot like we did this month or prepping for dinner and have all of those odds and ends just sitting on the cutting board - you know carrot ends onion skins tips of celery stalks you get the point - donrsquot toss lsquoem

Instead place them into a large ziploc bag and straight into the freezer After a couple of weeks yoursquoll likely have four full freezer bags of vegetable bits ready to be turned into broth and herersquos how you do it

Making a big batch of vegetable broth doesnrsquot always mean a trip to the grocery store All you need to do is save those scraps This is a handy trick I learned years ago courtesy of Bon Appetit

No-Waste Vegetable Broth

by DAN CLAPSON

Odds And Ends BrothYields 8 cups (2 L)

12 cups (3 L) water4 full ziploc bags of vegetable trimmings1 yellow onion quartered4 cloves garlicAromatics of choice (I usually toss a couple of rosemary and thyme sprigs in there)To taste Salt and pepper

1 Place all ingredients in a large pot and bring to a boil on medium-high heat

2 Reduce to medium heat and let simmer uncovered for 1frac12 hours

3 Strain season to taste with salt and pepper and use as desired

Full circlePizza amp Oyster Bar

933 17 Ave SW bull fullcirclepizzaca

buck-a-shuck oysters

$1 oysters every night

9 pm - close Sunday-thursday 11 pm - close friday amp saturday

40

Salentein 2012 Reserve Chardonnay Uco Valley Argentina

Very very enjoyable chardonnay blowing me away with complexity varietal character and fine balance between oak lees and fruit Toffee baked apple tangerine and a little almond on the nose lead into silkily textured wine in the mouth Top shelf chardonnay that might be great with lobster tails mussels or poultry Around $20 CSPC +779479

Rutini 2013 Cabernet Malbec Mendoza Argentina

An exceptionally well put together blend - if you want rich berry fruits lots of body but maybe not tons of varietal characters from the individual components Lifted and bright fruits make for a very enjoyable glass Simply perfect for your next barbecue a roast or just chilling out with friends and family $26-30 CSPC +776822

Vinecol 2014 Organic Malbec Mendoza Argentina Fair Trade organic and vegan along with a good price is it still good Piles of fresh fruits (think smashed raspberries) with plenty of spice and soft herb-leaf aromas There are plenty of malbec flavours on the palate too Good for any day of the week with just a little tension between fruit tannin and acid it might be best with pub style burgers pulled pork or sausages About $16 CSPC +755296

Argentina is so much more than malbec While such a noble grape has found its best home in the high altitude vineyards of Argentina there is a lot going on with other grapes as well

Making The Case For Argentina

by TOM FIRTH

This massive country nestled up against the Andes mountains has a range of growing conditions suited to a number of grapes From Salta in the north to Patagonia in the south plenty of interesting wines are available here - many reasonably priced and of excellent quality So yes there are some

malbecs on these pages but please do try some of the other grapes and blends coming from Argentina too

Be sure to crack open a bottle of malbec on ldquoWorld Malbec Dayrdquo April 17 - who knows it might be nice enough to barbecue too

Photograph courtesy Tom Firth

41

Manos Negras 2011 Stone Soil Select Mendoza Argentina Quite new to the market this is a pretty enjoyable version of Argentinarsquos flagship grape Loads of blue fruit and raspberries with spices galore and a little compost Rich flavours lead to a lengthy spicy finish Yes please Bring to a barbecue if you can $21 CSPC +630541

Zuccardi 2012 Zeta Mendoza Argentina

A malbec-cabernet sauvignon blend that is also a blend of two different Mendoza appellations La Consulta and Gualtallary Deep and abundant fruit aromas with liquorice root and a touch of blueberry preserves Excellent balance of flavours on the palate too with the right structure and tannin for aging if desired Enjoy with a prime rib or even meaty pasta dishes or game $50-52 CSPC +740270

Zuccardi 2012 ldquoEmmardquo Bonarda Mendoza Argentina

In my humble opinion one of the finest bonardas coming out of Argentina Notes of coffee bean and espresso complement cherry and blackberry fruits with healthy balanced tannins to stand up to the tart fruits Delicious for sure enjoy at your next barbecue $40 CSPC +758407

Luigi Bosca 2011 Cabernet-Malbec Mendoza Argentina

A wonderfully earthy and savoury blend with plenty of tobacco spice leather and yes lots of fruit too The earthy flavours work well with the big dark chocolate flavours and weighty tannins Drink now or through 2020 or so - with a steak naturally $22-24 CSPC +766010

Trivento 2013 Golden Reserve Malbec Lujan de Cuyo Argentina While there is a trend to see a lot of premium malbecs move away from oak presence this one is a bold smooth and delicious example that is seeing about a year of oak All those berry fruits plums and herb notes malbec is known for along with the smoothness that only oak brings Kick back relax maybe cook up some steaks - enjoy About $24 CSPC +711402

Trivento 2014 Malbec Reserve Mendoza Argentina Nearly unbeatable for good malbec at a great price itrsquos rich and chocolatey on the nose with big fruits and oak tones too Mild garrigue notes or dried herb flavours with plenty of fruit and tannins - still showing a fine sense of balance Enjoy with beef $14 CSPC +730714

Luigi Bosca 2011 De Sangre Mendoza Argentina A blend of cabernet sauvignon merlot and syrah that manages to pull out the best of each varietal Earthy and slightly smoky with good fruits and plenty of versatility Tannins are well-placed against the fruits with a long smooth finish Irsquove been a fan of this wine year after year Good to keep a couple on hand in the cellar About $29 CSPC +745106

Salentein 2012 Numina Gran Corte Uco Valley Argentina A malbec-dominated Bordeaux blend this stunner is all about ripe fruits cedar pepper cherries and plum with a little tealeaf and the right amount of tannins Very very well balanced and like any great wine think about some food to go with it Beef tenderloin slow cooked meats or maybe at your next asadohellip About $40 CSPC +764706

Colonia Las Liebres 2013 Bonarda Mendoza Argentina Bear with me here - a fine bonarda with plenty of earthy smoky aromas leading to rubber charred cherries and cocoa Some pretty prominent tannins to be found as well but wow does it all come together A wine that just begs for duck with cranberries or maybe some kebabshellip$20 CSPC +773381

42

Open That Bottleby LINDA GARSON photography by INGRID KUENZEL

ldquoIf you work in a place and yoursquore miserable I donrsquot know if there is a dollar amount that can be attached to that The work that yoursquore doing has to be rewarding and challengingrdquo says Karen KhoGrowing up in Niagara Falls in a Philippino SpanishChinese family Kho was surrounded by food and drinks with an open door policy that has had a huge influence on the person she is today - an

entertainer who likes to make people feel welcome ldquoMy parents wanted me to be a lawyer there was definitely an encouragement to use my voice for goodrdquo she explains ldquoAnd I still think I help people but in a different way a very social wayrdquo

Graduating Western University with a political science degree in 2000 Kho spent a year travelling and living in Australia before taking a leap of faith and moving to Calgary Here she studied wine with the International Sommeliers Guild and WSET but says her real education was a job she adored working in the wine trade at BIN 905 in tandem with running wine programs for CRMR restaurants It was only when the opportunity came to create the wine program at Vin Room six years later that Kho leapt at the challenge of a new idea for the city and spent four happy years there

Eventually she and her partner decided to stretch their wings and went to Vancouver where Kho embarked on a six-month culinary course at the Pacific Institute of Culinary Arts ticking off another box on her bucket list ldquoI wanted a greater understanding of technique in the kitchen and I wanted an understanding of what service on a very basic level would look like if I ever owned my own place and ever had to be the person who filled inrdquo she says ldquoI feel if I was ever in a place that needed someone to chop onions Irsquom your womanrdquo she laughs

A year later the pair came back with the idea of eventually opening their own business in Calgary ldquoThe support we get from this community is heartfelt and this is a city of opportunity People with the right concept are seeing a lot of great success itrsquos still our game planrdquo she says Meanwhile Kho applied only to Teatro where she is now Group Service Director

ldquoI wanted to work at a place that had a challenging wine program and had a level of service with high expectations and where professional service teams

applyrdquo she says ldquoItrsquos pretty romantic to work for a company that has been built on a foundation of service Successful businesses in the restaurant industry get the grand picture which is the moments that yoursquore creating for people and I like to be a part of thatrdquo she adds

So what bottle is Kho saving for a special occasion

Paying homage to her time at BIN 905 Kho explains ldquoI have a bottle of 1996 Chateau Mouton Rothschild which was given to me with some very kind words on my last day at BIN Irsquove always just appreciated my time there it was where I learned the vernacular of wine and itrsquos my first job where I really saw the benefits of serving people with intentionrdquo She continues ldquoI always see it thankfully as the stepping-stone to a broader wine profession and eventually to the position that I have now It was given to me by very close friends that Irsquom still friends with to this dayrdquo

And when is she planning to open the wine

ldquoWhen (partner) Dave and I open our own restaurantrdquo Kho says This isnrsquot something that something that will happen tomorrow but fortunately the wine will last until theyrsquore ready

Charcoal-grilled prime cutsHand-muddled caipirinhas50+ salad bar optionsThree distinct private rooms

pampasteakhousecomcalgary

521 10 Avenue SWCalgary AB

(587) 354-3441

See this weekrsquos promotion

eatpampayyc

1316-9th Avenue SE bull (403) 514-0577 bull knifewearYYC bull knifewearcom

Culinaire April 2016indd 2 2016-03-04 501 PM

All Trademarks presented in this magazine are owned by the registered owner All advertisements appearing in this magazine are the sole responsibility of the person business or corporation advertising their product or service For more information on Culinaire Magazinersquos Privacy Policy and Intention of Use please see our website at wwwculinairemagazineca All content photographs and articles appearing in this magazine are represented by the contributor as original content and the contributor will hold Culinaire Magazine harmless against any and all damages that may arise from their contribution All public correspondence which may include but is not limited to letters e-mail images and contact information received by Culinaire Magazine becomes the property of Culinaire Magazine and is subject to publication Culinaire Magazine may not be held responsible for the safety or return of any unsolicited manuscripts photographs and other materials Reproduction of this publication in whole or in part without written consent from Culinaire Magazine is strictly prohibited

Editor-in-ChiefPublisher

Commercial Director

Edmonton Sales Director

Contributing Food Editor

Contributing Drinks Editor

Digital Media Editor

Contributing Photographer

Design

Contributors

Linda Garsonlindaculinairemagazineca

Keiron Gallagher403-975-7177salesculinairemagazineca Lisa Wolansky587-338-8780 lisaculinairemagazineca

Dan Clapsondanculinairemagazineca

Tom Firth tomculinairemagazineca Anna Brooks webculinairemagazineca

Ingrid Kuenzel

Emily Vance

Jaclyn AdomeitAnna BrooksElizabeth Chorney-BoothNatalie FindlayRenee KohlmanRobyn MacleanKaren MillerDiana NgDavid NuttallBrice PeressiniPeter Vetsch

To read about our talented team of contributors please visit us online at

culinairemagazineca

infoculinairemagazinecawwwfacebookcomCulinaireMagazine

Twitter culinairemagInstagram culinairemag

For subscriptions competitions and to read Culinaire online

culinairemagazineca

Our Contributors

lt Peter VetschPeter is a local lawyer by day and wine writer by night pursuing his vinous passion by maintaining his own wine blog at popandpourca He has earned his formal wine accreditation through

the Wine amp Spirits Education Trust (WSET) where he obtained both Intermediate and Advanced Certificates with Distinction and he is always on the lookout for the next way to learn about and experience wine (and the next good bottle to try)

lt Anna BrooksAnna Brooks is Culinairersquos new digital media editor A Mount Royal journalism graduate stories have pulled her overseas to pursue international work in India Africa and

Thailand She has been published locally in Metro FreeFall and BeatRoute magazine She likes magical realism wine and English cocker spaniels (well just one English cocker spaniel) Follow her on Twitter Anna_Brooksie

lt Brice Peressini Brice Peressini has turned his passion for food drink and travel into his profession When not writing about the culinary arts he can be found mixing drinks at Chefbar or

visiting one of his favourite bars or restaurants His favourite cocktails are Old Fashioneds Manhattans and Negronis His favourite pastime is converting people to whisk(e)y

C A L G A R Y F O O D amp D R I N K R E C I P E S

Contact us atCulinaire Magazine

1203 804 -3rd Avenue SWCalgary AB T2P 0G9

403-870-9802

6

Salutes

and Shout Outs

Club for Carnivores

A subscription to the Carnivore Club will see a box of 4-6 cured or smoked meats with a combined weight of 1frac12-2 pounds arrive on your doorstep each month The club finds sources and features Canadian artisans who make premium charcuterie from ethically raised animals Some items will be traditional alongside more unusual items ndash think water buffalo and cranberry salami Each box comes with a handbook that describes that monthrsquos featured artisan explains what each meat is and sometimes includes pairing suggestions $50 a month includes the price of shipping and supports local family farms ndash and itrsquos all Fair Trade too they make sure the artisans are paid fairly for their quality meats We approve Check out carnivoreclubco

Hats off to Village Brewery

hellip who have teamed up with nano brewery The Dandy Brewing Company to launch the first annual Village Friend a 10 ABV Baltic Porter with deep and rich flavours of molasses and liquorice The collaboration will see part of the proceeds from this ale go to buying new pumps for Dandy a huge upgrade for the brewers ldquoThings are going well for us and we want to do our part to support Calgaryrsquos rising breweriesrdquo says Village

Breweryrsquos Jim Button We just love the concept ndash itrsquos soooo Calgary

Congrats to SAIT Team

hellip for their Meyer Lemon Mousse winner of the 2016 Pastry Chef Showcase Peoplersquos Choice Award for favourite plated dessert and to Bishwa Pati the Calgary Petroleum Club and the Delta Lodge at Kananaskis who won the Chocolate Showpiece Peoplersquos Choice Awards The event was an all-

round success raising funds for LrsquoArche Calgary and scholarships for SAIT Baking and Pastry Arts students Great job all

The Unicorn returns

After closing 11 months ago to make way for Quebec fashion retailer Simons The Unicorn Pub is back in business with its staff and many of its regular customers just half a block away from its original premises After nearly 36 years this Calgary icon has joined forces with Below Deck Tavern and the Libertine to become a three-storey superpub but still staying true to its cheerful friendly and value-driven lsquoeverybodyrsquo pub roots Welcome back

Cluck and Cleaver are open

This long-anticipated chicken takeout spot is finally open next to Boydrsquos on 14th Street SW in a stand-alone building with parking behind ndash and theyrsquore busy But we know why ndash sisters Nicole and Francine Gomes having been toying with the concept for 10 years ndash and

theyrsquove got it right Choose either super-crunchy Southern Fried or juicy Classic Rotisserie chicken by the piece or box and add a side of smoky chipotle lime corn and bean salad or creamy potato egg salad crunchy coleslaw and delicious baby roast potatoes that have soaked up all the juices from cooking with the chicken in the rotisserie Hand-cut fries fluffy buttermilk biscuits and gravy and homemade cookies are all on offer too ndash and all at great prices Yes itrsquos definitely the year for tasty take-outs

New Back Bar at Alloy

My how time flies ndash Alloy restaurant have occupied their beautiful BonnybrookManchester location for eight years and have just renovated the rear dining room and bar area to become The Back Bar by Alloy Now you can reserve a place at the bar or in one of the comfy booths for a casual drink before or after your meal Bar manager and mixologist Jake Hewitt is putting his spin on classic cocktails and chefowner Rogelio Herrera has created a very tasty snack menu of predictably delicious tempura shrimp tacos beef tartare nachos tender pork belly sliders crunchy nuts with togarashi and lime - and more

Cluck and Cleaver

INTRODUCING

A Farmerrsquos Wine

Every great wine tells a storyThis one starts with a farmer

10 Foot Henryrsquos back where he belongs

- on the ground floor of the Eagle Block where he spent 19 years upstairs in the Night Gallery 10 Foot Henry is the brainchild of Aja Lapointe and Steve Smee lately of Ox amp Angela and Una and a welcome addition to Victoria Park Veggies are the star here with meat as the supporting act theyrsquore serving up casual and creative lsquoNew North Americanrsquo comfort-food dishes - the way the couple eat at home Grab a friend and share a few plates of mash with goat yogurt ver jus and a fried egg - a sublime combination or nibble some mushroom and kale tempura with two dipping sauces or fresh and comforting roasted carrots and avocado with pistachio gremolata Bread is by Sidewalk Citizen and pasta is from Mercato and all desserts are made in house Wash it down with wine from the eclectic list or one of five organic and Fair Trade coffees from Calgaryrsquos original roaster ndash The Roasterie or one of six loose-leaf teas from the Naked Leaf See you there

Eagle Block

8

Book Review

Karen Miller is a lawyer by trade giving her a knack for picking apart a cookbook She has taught many styles of cooking classes and was part of the Calgary Dishing girls

Lick Your Plateby Julie Albert and Lisa GnatAppetite by Random House 2016 $32

by KAREN MILLER

The Bite Me Bite Me Too sisters are back this time thankfully with a little less gimmick Their cooking was always good and their passion for sharing always evident but it seems they have become more confident in their cooking

Lick Your Plate is a cookbook a lot of us will want on our kitchen shelf a compilation of recognizable recipes for family meals and entertaining alike The sisters have still managed to convey their effervescent style but the focus is on easy recipes anyone can do These girls are happy in the kitchen

It would be hard not to find some old favourites or a style of cuisine you want to try The recipes are not ldquoauthenticrdquo

but they work - they are quick and will satisfy your cravings Very few recipes have preparation times in excess of 15 minutes and the ingredients are easily found in our pantry They incorporate many styles from fast stir fries to slow cooker meals healthy grains a full range of vegetables dishes (yes including

Brussels sprouts and kale) and tempting desserts (try the Golden Apple Crisp with Salted Caramel Sauce on p 275)

The sisters have made an absolutely respectable version of a traditional Moroccan soup (Moroccan Chickpea amp Lemon Couscous Soup p 36) and who would not want to try their version of sticky buns (Luscious Lemon Sticky Buns p 243)

The cookbook still has a good sense of humour with catchy chapter titles and scattered quotes which will bring a smile to your face and do what they are intended to do - take the pressure off Enjoying the cooking process is what this cookbook is about making it easy and good enough to lick your plate

C u l i n a i r e rsquo s 2 n d A n n u a l T r e a s u r e H u n t i s S a t u r d a y A p r i l 9 t h

You may see yourself on television too this year mdash definitely another day to remember

culinairemag CulinaireMagazine culinairemag culinairemagazineca

Wersquore beyond excited for another amazing day of foodies in Calgary racing round the city to find out what treats await at over 30 destinations ndash the vast majority of which are new for 2016

Everyone went home a winner at our first annual Culinaire Treasure Hunt last year ndash and some were multiple winners We were completely sold out and it was so popular that we were trending on Twitter

Trivia questions about the participating restaurants markets and stores revealed the answers for where to dash off to receive your treat get your passport stamped and probably come away with a little culinary gift too

And there are fabulous prizes for the people who visit the most locations wear the best costumes have the funniest team names tweet the funniest photoshellip and lots lots more

This year is going to be an even more fun and rewarding day - we hope you and a partner have signed up as a team of two and registered to join us or signed up solo

Visit culinairemagazinecacontests follow us on Twitter culinairemag for the latest details and like us on facebook at facebookcomCulinaireMagazine to keep up with the news

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QuEbEacuteC CITy mONTREacuteAL OTTAWA TORONTO VANCOuVER CALgARy EDmONTON hALIFAX

The largest tasting tour of California wines in CanadaAlso includes a silent auction of wines not available in Canada

In todayrsquos busy world you may not get a chance to pick up

every issue of Culinaire To ensure

your copy go to culinairemagazineca to have the next ten issues delivered right

to your door

Order today mdash 10 issues for $39+gst

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14 Ways to Spice Up Grilled Cheese | Beyond YYC Maui | Sunday Suppers

C A L G A R Y F O O D amp D R I N K R E C I P E S V O L U M E 4 N O 8 J A N U A R Y F E B R U A R Y 2 0 1 6

FOOD TRENDS FOR 2016

20+ AWARD-WINNING

TOP VALUE WINES

Beyond YYC Canmore amp Banff | Grab-and-Go | Absinthe The Green Fairy

C A L G A R Y F O O D amp D R I N K R E C I P E S V O L U M E 4 N O 9 M A R C H 2 0 1 6

RAISE A GLASS

TO WOMEN BEHIND THE BAR

AMAZING COCKTAILS TO MAKE AT HOME

For Foodies amp Beverage Lovers

10

A sure-fire favourite dish at Una Pizza + Wine Kale Caesar Salad is much requested It has all the elements of a perfect salad crunchy prosciutto and breadcrumbs and chewy kale leaves and egg for texture with grated cheese and a creamy plate-licking dressing to pull it all together Many thanks to Una Executive Chef Jen Pena for sharing it with us

Unarsquos Kale Caesar SaladServes 4

Salad2 Tbs (30 mL) olive oil plus more if needed4 thin slices prosciutto juliennedfrac12 cup panko breadcrumbsMaldon salt and black pepper2 bunches kale leaves only julienned1 cup grated Pecorino cheese2 hard boiled eggs peeled and halved (optional)

Caesar Dressing1 clove garlic4 anchovy fillets1 Tbs (15 mL) Dijon mustardZest and juice of 1 lemonfrac12 cup (120 mL) olive oil

1 Using a fork crush garlic and anchovies against the inside of a large bowl Add mustard lemon juice zest and olive oil and whisk until well emulsified Pour the dressing into a glass jar and set aside

2 Line a plate with paper towels Heat olive oil in a medium frying pan on high Add prosciutto and pan-fry until crispy about 5 minutes Transfer to the paper towel-lined plate and set aside

3 Reduce the heat to low and add panko crumbs to the pan adding a little oil if required Toast until golden about 2 minutes Scrape the panko into a small bowl season to taste with salt and set aside

4 Place kale in a large bowl pour in the dressing and toss well Season with salt and black pepper Transfer to a serving

bowl and top with grated Pecorino cheese toasted panko and crispy prosciutto Serve with the boiled eggs if desired

If therersquos a dish in a restaurant that yoursquod love to know how to make let us know at culinairemagazinecacontact-us and wersquoll do our very best to track it down for you

Off The Menu

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For more information contact competition director Tom Firth tomculinairemagazineca

Registration Deadline July 1 | Judging Takes Place July 18-19-20

12

Tricks Chefs Tipsstory by ROBYN MACLEAN photography by INGRID KUENZEL Knives

The most important tool in any kitchen without a doubt is a good knife As Iron Chef Masahari Morimoto would say ldquoa kitchen without a knife is not a kitchenrdquo

I couldnrsquot agree more

For professional cooks knives are practically an extension of their hands and probably better cared for But a quality knife is just as essential for home cooks If yoursquore even slightly inclined to cook at home at the very least you should own a classic 20 cm chefrsquos knife ndash the go-to knife for the brunt of daily kitchen tasks

But itrsquos certainly not the only knife you should have in your arsenal Slicing dicing filleting butchering and julienning become a whole lot easier when you use the right knife for the job and these three Calgary chefs share their favourite model and a recipe to help point you in the right direction

䈀甀礀 琀栀攀 琀漀瀀 栀愀氀昀 漀昀 愀渀礀 戀漀琀琀氀攀 漀昀 眀椀渀攀 戀攀琀眀攀攀渀 瀀洀ⴀ㘀瀀洀 愀渀搀 最攀琀 琀栀攀 戀漀琀琀漀洀 琀栀攀 昀甀渀 栀愀氀昀⤀ 昀漀爀 䘀刀䔀䔀

䘀刀

䔀䔀

䴀伀一䐀䄀夀 ⴀ 䘀刀䤀䐀䄀夀 瀀洀 ⴀ㘀瀀洀

瀀爀椀挀攀 戀漀琀琀氀攀猀 漀昀 眀椀渀攀㔀 戀漀琀琀氀攀猀 漀昀 戀攀攀爀㔀 栀椀最栀戀愀氀氀猀

䠀䄀䰀䘀 䘀刀䔀䔀 圀䤀一䔀

㔀 㔀 Ⰰ 㠀 䄀 瘀 攀 匀 圀 Ⰰ 䌀 愀 氀 最 愀 爀 礀 Ⰰ 䄀 䈀 吀 倀 䜀

Pacific Albacore Tuna CrudoServes 4

335 g Pacific albacore tuna 1 honey crisp or granny smith apple 4 cloves of garlic thinly sliced frac12 tsp ground espelette chili frac14 cup (60 mL) sunflower oil frac14 cup (60 mL) flax oil 1 Tbs lightly toasted flax seed 8 pickled string beans (keep some pickling liquid)4 slices of prosciutto 1 Tbs (1 mL) rice vinegar Pea shoots Good quality finishing salt like fleur de sel

1 Slice garlic as thinly as possible and combine with sunflower oil in a small saucepan Heat slowly and allow the garlic to fry until golden brown Remove from heat and add the ground espelette chili

2 Allow the oil to steep for 15-20 minutes at room temperature Once cool add flax oil

Chef Matthias Fong

3 Slice 8 pickled string beans thinly into rounds

4 Dice the apple into 1 cm cubes and add a splash of the pickled string bean liquid as well as rice vinegar add to the sliced string beans

5 Set up 4 plates Slice the tuna into frac34 cm thick slices and lay out 85 g per plate Using the finishing salt season the tuna to taste

6 Pull the prosciutto slices apart into bite-sized pieces and scatter them with the tuna slices

7 Drizzle 1 Tbs (15 mL) flax oil over each plate with a few slices of the fried garlic from the oil on each plate

8 Scatter the apple and string bean mixture over the slices of tuna being sure to spoon some of the pickling liquid from the bowl over the tuna slices Finish with pea shoot tips and toasted flax seed

Chef Matthias FongRiver Cafeacute

A good quality knife is made from high quality steel usually German or Japanese which will stay sharp for a long period of time and has the potential to last a lifetime

Owning a stainless steel knife versus one made from high carbon steel is also extremely beneficial in any kitchen Itrsquos easy for a knife to end up in the sink which can leave non-stainless varieties rusted and ruined

ldquoRegardless of style or brand itrsquos never safe to let knives go dull Dull knives lead to excessive force and can easily slip off the product yoursquore cuttingrdquo cautions Fong

ldquoTo properly care for a knife I recommend investing in some sharpening stone andor a ceramic honing rod which prolongs the life of your knife and requires less sharpening I also suggest signing up for a class to learn the art of sharpening or just take your knives directly to the folks at Knifewear and theyrsquoll gladly maintain for yourdquo

ldquoMy go-to knife is the Tojiro Flash 825-inch slicer Itrsquos short in length making it versatile for a variety of uses I use it for the majority of my prep work but itrsquos ideal for slicing and carving The narrow blade allows for paper thin slicing on delicate fish like tunardquo says Fong

ldquoI favour the Tojiro line of knives because they offer stainless Japanese steel thatrsquos easy to sharpen and repairrdquo

14

Chef Kai SalimaumlkiThe Block

Chef Salimaumlki is all about a great multipurpose knife ldquoI love the Masakage Kumo Petty 150 mm knife Itrsquos ideal for numerous tasks in the kitchen but I especially love it for chopping fine herbs Itrsquos lightweight and has a remarkably sharp edge that has chives bouncing from under it in perfect uniform circlesrdquo he explains

The Petty knife is ideal for smaller jobs such as slicing shallots cutting herbs and boning smaller proteins And because of its size itrsquos also a great alternative for those who feel uncomfortable wielding a larger heavier chefrsquos knife

ldquoI would recommend this knife for the home cook as it can replace many utility knives people seem to collect in drawers And of course most importantly I recommend proper love attention and care to ensure you keep this tool functioning for a very long timerdquo

You simply canrsquot do your best without your equipment at its best

Chef Jorel ZielkeBrasserie Kensington and Winebar

ldquoIrsquom a huge fan of my 10frac34-inch MAC chefrsquos knife This multipurpose knife is modeled after the standard French chefrsquos kniferdquo says Zielke

Sirloin Beef TartareServes 2

335 g AAA beef sirloin2 Tbs (30 mL) grainy mustard cup minced shallots Tbs minced gherkins2 Tbs cup finely chopped parsley Worcestershire sauce to tasteHot sauce to tasteCold pressed canola oil to taste 1 egg yolk in tact with all whites removedPinch of fresh grated horseradishSalt and pepper

1 Finely dice the sirloin removing any connective tissue or silver-skin Do not trim off the fat Pass over the meat several times with your knife

2 Mix in mustard shallots gherkins parsley Worcestershire hot sauce oil and salt and pepper

3 Note All garnish measurements are suggestions as tartares vary to personal taste Add enough oil to moisten dish but be careful not to oversaturate

4 Top tartare with raw egg yolk and freshly grated horseradish

5 Serve with anything you can pick it up with such as crostini crackers fresh bread fresh heirloom tomato or crisp lettuce

ldquoI canrsquot emphasize enough the importance of respecting your tools by keeping them clean and properly functioning to avoid safety issues You simply canrsquot do your best without your equipment at its bestrdquo

ldquoA sharp knife is key when dicing raw meat like in my recipe belowrdquo he continues ldquoKeep in mind that itrsquos not firm like an onion or a stick of celery Meat shifts and moves as you prepare it so itrsquos important to slow down and take your time when preparing a dish like tartarerdquo

Chef Jorel Zielke

Chef Kai Salimaumlki

15

Robyn is a public relations professional and occasional writer with a passion for food and beverages Despite city hopping from her home in Calgary to Anchorage AK you can still find her on Twitter robynalana

Braised Brisket with Carrot Puree and Napa Cabbage Serves 4

900 ndash 1125 g brisket5 carrots peeled and sliced 12-16 baby potatoes 1 head of Napa cabbage julienned5 parsnips peeled and sliced 2 tomatoes quartered2 yellow onions quartered1 yellow onion thinly sliced6 sprigs of thyme4 sprigs of rosemary 6 whole cloves of garlic3-4 Tbs butter1 Tbs black peppercornsCanola oil4 cups (1 L) beef stock or water1 cup (240 mL) of milkHoney to tasteSalt and pepper 1 Season brisket liberally with salt and pepper (you can braise whole or cut it into smaller chunks)

2 In a large sauteacute pan heat canola oil until it has reached its smoking point Sear the meat on all sides until golden brown and caramelized

3 Remove from pan and place in a large ovenproof baking dish covering with beef stock (or water) Add peppercorns two sprigs of rosemary 4 sprigs of thyme whole garlic tomatoes and the quartered onions

4 Cover with tin foil and braise for approximately for 3-3frac12 hours at 325ordm F or until fork tender

5 Remove from the braising juices spoon off any excess fat and strain juices into a saucepot reduce on a medium heat until a nice thick sauce has formed

6 For carrot puree add two tablespoons of butter in a heavy bottomed saucepan and sauteacute sliced onion and diced carrots together over medium heat Yoursquore not looking to brown the vegetables but rather simmer in the butter

7 After 10 minutes cover the mixture with milk add 2 sprigs of thyme and season with salt Simmer until soft and tender

8 Strain the carrots and reserve the milk throw out the thyme sprigs Place the carrots and onions in a blender and slowly add the milk until a nice puree is achieved check seasoning and thickness and adjust if necessary Set aside 9 Sauteacute julienned cabbage in a tablespoon of butter season with salt and add 2 tablespoons of water Reduce heat and cook for 5 minutes stirring frequently

ldquoI recommend proper love attention and care to ensure you keep this tool functioning for a

very long timerdquo

10 Toss sliced carrots and parsnips with honey chopped rosemary and thyme season with salt and pepper and roast in the oven for an hour at 325ordm F or until tender 11 Boil the baby potatoes in heavily salted water until fork tender

12 To serve set up 4 plates and spoon carrot puree on the bottom of the plate in a circle Arrange potatoes carrots and parsnips around the plate place Napa cabbage in the middle and place brisket on top Spoon the reduced braising liquid over the meat

16

As Nemeth chats with customers other vendors and friends who stop by her enthusiastic greetings and joyous laughter are hard to ignore mdash this is a woman who clearly likes people In fact she loves them Warm hearty and full of surprises the words used to describe Nemethrsquos personality can just as easily be used to describe her soup

The Primal Soup Co is a fairly new entity mdash the frozen containers of soup with flavours like Mango Butternut Squash Spinach Artichoke and Feta and Thai Coconut Chicken first showed up at the Market on MacLeod (then the

Going To MarketPrimal Soup Company Finds Its Homeby ELIZABETH CHORNEY-BOOTH photography by INGRID KUENZEL

If you happen to spy Margaret Nemeth at one of her Primal Soup Company booths at the Crossroads Market or the Market on MacLeod yoursquoll immediately see that the energetic atmosphere of a Farmersrsquo Market suits her

Kingsland Farmersrsquo Market) in 2011 mdash but Nemeth is not new to the food and beverage game

Long-time Calgarians may recognize the Primal name and the taste of Nemethrsquos homemade soups from the now defunct Primal Grounds Cappuccino Bar and Eatery in Killarney which Nemeth owned and ran from 1996 through to 2010

Nemeth opened that business after a career in oil and gas and the stand-alone cafeacute was a solid success for her Not only did it serve up great coffee Nemeth quickly made a name for herself with her homemade soup creations All homemade and gluten-free (due to Nemethrsquos own dietary restrictions) Primal Grounds was catering to people with gluten intolerances long before it became fashionable

ldquoWe were pioneers and it was so much funrdquo Nemeth says ldquoThere were lots of ups and downs but it was a good liferdquo

ldquoWhen yoursquore in a market you have to give people reasons to stoprdquo

Margaret Nemeth

17

Nemeth sold the cafeacute when a real estate developer made her an offer she couldnrsquot refuse but she still felt the urge to be around people and feed them So she set up shop in the markets - first the Market on MacLeod and then in January of 2015 she opened a stall in the rebranded Crossroads Market

Elizabeth Chorney-Booth is a Calgary-based writer and co-founderco-editor of RollingSpooncom and Wapawekkacom She enjoys exploring the connection between music and food through interviews with musicians and chefs

Primal Soup also sells lunch items like gourmet macaroni and cheese sandwiches and homemade pies and pastries so that market wanderers can stop by the stall and grab a full lunch while perusing the soup cooler for something to take home for a future meal

ldquoWhen yoursquore in a market you have to give people reasons to stoprdquo Nemeth says ldquoSo we offer things to go with the soup which also gives them ideas for what they can do at home Or sometimes theyrsquoll come for a sandwich and then theyrsquoll look at the soups You have to give people reasons to be in this spacerdquo

ldquoWe were pioneers and it was so much funrdquo

Whatever Nemeth is doing it seems to be working Between the two farmersrsquo markets and specialty retailers like the Market on 17th Sunnyside Market and SPUD delivery boxes Primal Soup Co sells over 1000 containers of soup every week Nemeth develops the recipes herself but has hired a full-time chef to keep up with the demand Personality and strategic stall locations in busy farmersrsquo markets alone isnrsquot enough to move that kind of volume of soup mdash while Nemeth has made smart business decisions over the course of Primalrsquos various incarnations the key to her success really lies in the product itself Everything is made from scratch without the aid of pre-bought soup bases and Nemeth uses seasonal ingredients (only 20 to 30 of her 50 soup varieties are ever available at any given time) supporting her neighbours at the markets when possible Her meat stocks are built from organic chicken bones Wintersrsquo turkey carcasses and duck bones from fellow market vendor Green Eggs and Ham to build a rich and delicious broth ldquoI layer my soupsrdquo Nemeth says ldquoI donrsquot just throw everything in the pot together And there has to be a twist in every one There has to be something

that you donrsquot expect mdash a surprise in every boxrdquo

To bring things full circle Nemeth has a new venture that just opened kitty corner to her Primal Soup stall in the Crossroads Market a beautiful and shiny new Primal Grounds coffee location With a long counter for people to sit at for as long as they like (Nemeth jokes that itrsquos the perfect place for bored spouses to sit while their partners shop the market) itrsquos an updated nod to what got Primal Soup started in the first place

And itrsquos also a testament to Nemethrsquos dedication to market life mdash the lack of control she has over her own hours and some other aspects arenrsquot perfect but the busyness the proximity to like-minded vendors and most of all the people she gets to interact with on a constant basis has put Nemeth exactly where she belongs ldquoYoursquore only as strong as the market is collectivelyrdquo she says ldquoItrsquos different than being a restaurant but I have to say itrsquos the funnest thing Irsquove ever donerdquo

ldquoThere has to be something that you donrsquot

expect mdash a surprise in every boxrdquo

18

Soup Kitchenstory and photography by DAN CLAPSON

The fresh hang-up-your-winter-jacket feeling is finally in the air ndash and that my friends is a wonderful thing Gone are the days where wersquove looked forward to spooning into a big bowl of creamy soup or sitting down to some chicken noodle soup to help shake off the winter sniffles These days Irsquom more concerned with light and bright flavours and less calorie-ridden meals

so I wonrsquot look completely undesirable in a swimsuit come June

Here are two great recipes that just happen to be vegan but are bursting with flavour

Serves 5 Total cook time 35 minutes

6 cups (15 L) vegetable broth1 cup (240 mL) white wine1 cup (240 mL) water2 Tbs (30 mL) tomato paste2 cups dry green lentils1 red onion halved and thinly sliced1 small fennel bulb halved and thinly sliced2 tsp (10 mL) maple syrup1 tsp dried oreganofrac12 tsp ground turmericfrac12 tsp chili flakesfrac12 tsp ground cinnamon1 pinch nutmeg2 cups thinly sliced red Swiss chardTo taste salt and pepper

1 Place broth wine water and tomato paste in a large pot and bring to a simmer on medium-high heat Add lentils and cook for 15 minutes

2 Add onion fennel maple syrup and spices and continue to cook for 15 minutes

Spiced Green Lentil and Chard Soup

3 Add Swiss chard and cook until leaves are tender about 2-3 minutes Season to taste with salt and pepper and serve

Dan Clapson is a freelance food writer and columnist in Calgary When hersquos not writing about Canadarsquos amazing culinary scene he is likely listening to 80s rock or 90s boy bands Follow him on twitter dansgoodside

Spinach and Cashew Soup with Poblano and Scallion Salsa

Serves 4 Total cook time 30 minutes not including cashew soak time

Soup1frac12 cups roasted cashews2 cups (500 mL) water4 cups (1 L) vegetable broth4 cups cooked spinach1 Tbs (15 mL) apple cider vinegar1 Tbs (15 mL) maple syrupfrac12 tsp cayenne peppersalt and pepper to tastecashew butter for garnish optional

1 Place cashews and water in a container cover and let sit on counter overnight

2 Combine cashews water and remaining soup ingredients in a blender and pureacutee until very smooth

3 Pour contents of blender through a fine mesh strainer into a medium pot Bring to a simmer on medium-high heat and cook for 15 minutes Season to taste with salt and pepper and keep warm on stove until ready to serve

4 Place a couple of spoonfuls of the salsa into each bowl and ladle soup around it Add a couple of dollops of cashew butter for a little extra richness

Salsa1 large poblano pepper halved and seeds removed1 bunch scallions2 Tbs (30 mL) canola oil2 Tbs fresh mint roughly chopped1 tsp (5 mL) lemon juicefrac12 tsp cane sugarfrac12 tsp chili flakessalt and pepper to taste

1 Preheat oven to 400ordm F

2 Place poblano halves and scallions on a baking sheet drizzle with oil and roast until slightly charred about 15-18 minutes

3 Remove from oven allow to cool slightly then give them a rough chop

4 Add to a bowl with remaining ingredients and toss to combine Season liberally with salt and pepper

20

Photograph courtesy California Wine Institute

Ever since Napa Valley cabernet sauvignons and chardonnays bested their more historic counterparts from Bordeaux and Burgundy in the now-famous Judgment of Paris tasting in 1976 California and its flagship region have carried the torch for the bold dense fruity lushly oaked wines that brought them worldwide fame

Forty years later this sun-drenched style of wines remains both unapologetically enjoyable and wildly popular and Napa is on the bucket list of any devoted wine tourist But as tastes and trends start to evolve away from a focus on power and concentration towards greater elegance and food-friendliness winemakers in California are again taking to the frontier gravitating towards the statersquos physical and climatic extremes to explore new boundaries of flavour and complexity Californiarsquos cooler corners

California Coolby PETER VETSCH

California is a land of frontiers dangling on the edge of the Pacific home of the Gold Rush and epicentre of the New Worldrsquos insurgence onto the global wine scene

are fast becoming its second face in the world of wine

Sonoma County north of San Francisco and just west of Napa is probably Californiarsquos second best-known region almost equally recognized for its cabernets chardonnays and zinfandels The largest subregion in the county taking up almost a third of its total area is the western Sonoma Coast too expansive at 500000 acres to have a distinct identity

However the western border of this appellation a razorrsquos edge straddling the ocean locally known as the ldquotruerdquo Sonoma Coast showcases the regionrsquos true character - extreme viticulture wet cool and always windy at elevations up to 2000 feet balanced on the San Andreas Fault with many vines growing above the fog line and constantly exposed to the throes of the Pacific Pinot noir takes on a unique expression here on low-yielding vines in the cool above the rest of Sonoma offering both remarkable purity of fruit and astonishing acidity and structure

Pinot is also predominant in the relatively new Santa Rita Hills subregion of the Santa Ynez Valley located an hour and a half northwest of Los Angeles and similarly perched right alongside the ocean The maritime influence dominates the microclimate and counteracts the California sun with fog and cool breezes to the point where this coastal spot becomes a near ideal substitute for chilly Burgundy Here the core Burgundian varietals of pinot noir and chardonnay thrive in a particularly striking edgy way

Santa Ynez is the only wine region in the western hemisphere where the arearsquos defining mountain range runs east-west instead of north-south creating a sort of maritime wind tunnel that sucks cold Pacific air eastward This leads to some of the largest diurnal (day to night) temperature shifts in North America and allows inland grapes ripening in the scorching daytime heat to recharge and maintain acidity at night This special geological feature allows a wide range of reds in Santa Ynez to be juicy but still structured bold yet balanced from cabernet and merlot to syrah and grenache

Halfway between the Sonoma Coast to the north and the Santa Rita Hills to the south along yet another coastline

California can comfortably both provide continuity

and defy stereotype

Wine Picks

Peter is a local lawyer by day and wine writer by night maintaining his own wine blog at popandpourca He is always on the lookout for the next way to experience wine and the next good bottle to try

A LITTLE SIBLING RIVALRY NEVER HURT ANYBODY

FOUR SETTINGS ONE PHILOSOPHY crmrcom338 - 17th Avenue SW

c i l a n t ro

747 Lake Bonavista Dr SE113 - 8th Avenue SW 340 - 17th Avenue SW

Sequoia Grove 2012 Cabernet Sauvignon (Napa Valley)Textbook cabernet from Naparsquos heart of Rutherford with deep black fruit mint and cedarhellip and a survivable price tag CSPC +740382 $56

Hartford Court Landrsquos Edge Vineyard Pinot Noir (Sonoma Coast)The ferocity of the Sonoma Coast somehow creates the picture of elegance in this juicy yet delicate pinot CSPC +717210 $60

Domaine de la Cote 2013 Pinot Noir (Sta Rita Hills) Seriously pushes the boundaries picked almost insanely early for low-alcohol herbal pomegranate and rhubarb acidic tension and energy CSPC +761893 $58

Alice May Crosswinds Syrah (Santa Ynez Valley) A syrahviognier Cote Rotie-style co-ferment that matches Cali ripeness with surprising verve and delicacy CSPC +761131 $28

Ridge 2013 Geyserville (Santa Cruz Mountains)This will change your expectations of zinfandel A zin-heavy field blend it combines the best of its mountain altitude and the California sun CSPC +426379 $55

just south of San Jose the wineries of the Santa Cruz Mountains prove again that those seeking to make modern moderate wines in California head both west and up The highest vineyards in Santa Cruz despite being just miles from the ocean are at 2600 feet this significant altitude and the cool Pacific climate results in chiseled wines with controlled ripeness and serious staying power

The region is both expansive and miniscule with only 1500 of its 480000 acres currently planted to grapes and its very-California plantings (cabernet chardonnay pinot noir zinfandel and merlot) all take on an Old World character and rusticity from its rugged terrain and stony mineral-laden soils Despite the challenges associated with growing grapes on a cool rock face Santa Cruz is a state leader in sustainable growing practices

The friendly sunny face of California wine is surely here to stay but Santa Cruz Santa Ynez and the Sonoma Coast are permanent proof that the state is readily capable of more than one expression With its range of climate and terrain California can comfortably both provide continuity and defy stereotype

22

En GardeA Beginnerrsquos Guide To Knives And Their Usesby ANNA BROOKS

Itrsquos difficult to imagine that sharp little number thatrsquos slicing away to the rhythm of your favourite cooking music (or to the beating of child-size fists hungry for dinner) was more often used for combat not chopping carrots

Despite King Louis XIVrsquos decree that the tips of knives be ground down to reduce violence in the mid-1600s kitchen knives still (for quite pointed reasons) make popular murder weapons

But we wonrsquot get into grisly stories of guts and gore here Whether yoursquore a chef extraordinaire or the person whose knife knowledge goes as far as cutting

vegetables with a steak knife there are some things everyone should know about knives

The first major thing we must insist upon is putting down that expensive 14-piece knife set As most knife experts can attest to three main knives can cover almost all the work that a layman cook needs to do in the kitchen

23

Three main knives can cover almost all the work that a layman cook needs

to do in the kitchen

Chefrsquos Knife Your standard knife for mincing and slicing vegetables and meat a chefrsquos knife is typically 20-25 cm long but can range all the way up to 36 cm

Luke Pickett from Knifewear is a sight to see wielding some wickedly sharp

handcrafted Japanese models but despite their carnivorous look Pickett said therersquos really nothing to fear

ldquoThere are a lot of people who are scared of really large knivesrdquo Pickett said ldquoBut having good quality kitchen equipment will make your life easierrdquo

For beginners a standard 20 cm chefrsquos knife (although Pickett said blade length is purely based on personal preference) is best to start with but a Japanese Santoku knife mdash an elegant slightly smaller version of a chefrsquos knife mdash will certainly get the job er meal done

Paring KnifeOn the other side of the knife spectrum is the pocket-sized paring knife (note carrying knives in pockets not recommended)

Regan Johnson assistant manager at The Cookbook Co said besides what the individual using a steak knife to cut everything might think the small intricate work required of a paring knife (such as peeling and trimming) should not be done on a cutting board

ldquoParing is anything you can be doing in the air mdash yoursquore not ever supposed to use a paring knife on a boardrdquo she explained

Johnson added that for someone like herself who does almost as much blade-wielding as a samurai she also recommends a utility knife

which is a hybrid of a chefrsquos knife and a paring knife

ldquoI reach for my utility knife a lotrdquo she said ldquoItrsquos got that shape of a paring knife but is longer Itrsquos just for those things in between that you donrsquot need your giant chefrsquos knife forrdquo

Bread KnifeThe last of the big three is of course a bread knife Have you ever tried to cut a loaf of bread with a straight blade Not so easy (or safe) a task

Itrsquos sometimes difficult to do but no matter the type of knife yoursquore using itrsquos important to try and slice as opposed to chopping or sawing It

is quite tempting (and often seems easier) to saw away at the crispy crust of a floured loaf of sourdough but Knifewearrsquos Pickett said sawing can

be a slippery slope to your bread knifersquos grave

ldquoIf you slice you can use the entire blade and itrsquos a lot sharper along the edgerdquo he explained ldquoItrsquos important to get a good bread knife because you canrsquot sharpen them like you can any other sort of kniferdquo

The Big Three

24

Having good quality kitchen equipment will

make your life easier

Anna Brooks is an award-winning journalist from Calgary Alberta She has worked internationally in Thailand and Africa and has been published in Metro BeatRoute Magazine and the Calgary Journal She also enjoys animal rights fantasy fiction and whiskey sours

Tips and TricksOf course you can adorn your kitchen with the countless others belonging to the knife family mdash cleavers carvers boning knives cheese knives etc mdash but if yoursquore not planning on hacking through solid bone anytime soon you probably donrsquot need to spend $200 on a meat cleaver

But there are some other knife-related implements that are important to have in your kitchen

First off a proper cutting board While plastic cutting boards are versatile and can be chucked in the dishwasher wood is really the best way to go Cutting boards are the quickest way to ruin a knife so steer clear of fancy-looking glass or granite boards mdash they are the antagonists of our story

Itrsquos also not a bad idea to have a knife honer on hand As a reminder (or for

those who had no idea what that random rod in the kitchen was used for) honers are for honing not sharpening

ldquoWith use the metal fibres in a knife edge can get bent to one side or another All yoursquore doing with honing is straightening those fibres back outrdquo Johnson from The Cookbook Co explained ldquoSharpening means yoursquore actually removing material and grinding the metal down to a finer edgerdquo

Johnson added that while you can sharpen at home she always recommends getting your knives sharpened professionally at least once a year depending on how much theyare used

Before you go back to making your lazy-day grilled cheese sandwich or that complex stew yoursquove spent hours on we just want to remind you of whatrsquos called ldquothe pinch griprdquo

Not to sound snobbish but grabbing a knife by the handle and hacking away is poor form Use your thumb and index finger to grasp the blade and then wrap your remaining fingers under the bolster of the knife Shape your other hand into a claw to protect your fingertips from accidentally getting lopped off firmly grasp the object to be cut and slice away

If this knowledge was present in the 17th century perhaps old King Louis XIV would be tipping his crown to more cooks not kitchen knife combatants

25

Times Are A Changing Unexpected Take-Outs

by LINDA GARSON and DIANA NG photography by INGRID KUENZEL

Therersquos no denying that many of our cityrsquos restaurants are feeling the effects of the current economic downturn fewer people working downtown ndash indeed fewer people working altogether and so looking to save money by eating out less means many bricks and mortar restaurants are having to get creative with ways to fully utilise their kitchens and staff

High rents exacerbate the situation so itrsquos time for Calgary restaurateurs to think outside the box and proving to be the innovative entrepreneurs that wersquore known for many are diversifying their offerings to include take-out options both raw and cooked

Catch amp The Oyster Bar launched their ldquoBuy Catchrdquo program where you can pick up fresh Ocean Wise seafood to take home and cook (complete with recipes) along with house-made clam chowder and sauces nearly two years ago There are big savings to be had over dining in with no costs for linen or staff and no expectation to tip

Here are four Calgary eateries also getting clever with take-out

programs that are not widely publicised - and may

open a few eyes

26

Centini Restaurant

Itrsquos not a cookie cutter program but the magic of Centinirsquos take-out is that you can ask the kitchen for ideas of what you should have for dinner People even text the servers for suggestions and to order Loyal customers mostly busy businessmen were asking if they catered but without the staff for such a service Centini started offering to prepare dishes for them to cook themselves

Now you can get your favourite restaurant dishes from rack of lamb with red wine demi-glace AAA Alberta beef tenderloin with Gorgonzola pan sauce and sea bass with ginger cream sauce ready to cook at home ldquoWersquore not going to open a bricks and mortar restaurant down south but our food is going thererdquo says Chevonne Centini Theyrsquore seeing pick-ups such as for people stuck at home with a new baby and even 40 people for a funeral

Boxwood

Itrsquos hard to believe that the quality of food coming from the sister restaurant to River Cafe can be had at home and we are not talking about leftovers When

People take home uncooked homemade pasta with sauce separately and even bread dough and often freeze it to cook later or pick up on a Friday evening so everything is prepared ready for Saturday dinner When buying from a restaurant yoursquore getting top quality perfectly trimmed meat everything is done for you - therersquos no shopping

around and even the parsley is chopped And as everything is custom-made all allergies are catered for too

Centini gets fish delivered once or twice every day and it may come as a surprise but with a chef garde manger that spent 15 years in Japan they have customers coming just to take out sushi

you go home to an empty fridge it feels like the only options you have are fast food or pizza Not so

Boxwoodrsquos fresh and seasonal fare is also available to take home While you wonrsquot

be able to enjoy the quaint atmosphere of the restaurant you can order anything on the menu for take out with its special offering being the whole rotisserie free-range chicken which serves two to four people for $40

Many bricks and mortar restaurants are

having to get creative with ways to fully utilise their

kitchens and staff

You will need to call a few hours ahead (the website states before 200 pm) for enough notice for the chicken but for the rest of the selection like its soups and sandwiches you can simply look up the menu online and call to place an order For a perfect night in may we suggest starting with its bison tartare then moving onto the porchetta and another main before finishing off the meal with a slice of pie

27

Gaucho

For most people the elaborate setup of Brazilian barbecue is one of its biggest attractions You may not know this and while you may not be able to take home the lively decor of Gaucho you can actually take the meal home

The spit packed tightly with freshly roasted meats the sign at the table that signals yoursquore ready for more and the roasted and caramelized pineapple that tops off the meal all contribute to the atmosphere but if all you want are the meats and sides for a hefty dinner you can certainly order the meal as a take-out

Order any of the four options (top sirloin pork loin chicken wings or mild sausage) and add three sides from the list of eight which includes a variety of salads black bean stew and rice And because you canrsquot just have one kind of meat when it comes to Brazilian barbecue you can choose additional

Safari Grill

The marinated thinly sliced BBQ short beef ribs at Safari Grill are already a must-have for those in the know but we suspect even regulars will be surprised to discover that you can pick

up uncooked ribs with your choice of seven marinades to take home and BBQ yourself

With none of the associated costs of dining in $65 buys you enough ribs for 10 people and customers actually drive

meats for $4 each Finally choose the sauce yoursquod like to accompany your meal Orders for over five people will come in a big white box and individual

orders come will in regular take-out containers For big parties do call a few hours ahead All you need to make at home is the caipirinha

from Saskatchewan to take away 10-15 lb bags of these uncooked marinated ribs Some people call and ask for them to be marinated and frozen in 5 lb bags to enjoy later as just 5-7 minutes each side on a high flame has the raw ribs ready to eat

And itrsquos not only ribs that people BBQ at home Mishkaki are skewers of marinated chicken beef and prawns and for as little as $3 each you can have a very inexpensive BBQ feast Marinated raw lamb chops are also available or ask for Samaki - a marinated whole tilapia that comes with a basting sauce to brush on You can even get uncooked samosas to cook in your oven at home

All Safari Grillrsquos regular menu can be ordered for take-out but there is no published price list for uncooked dishes so people call to order and ask - but when yoursquore picking up look out for the new jars of house-made mango and lemon pickles

28

Step By Step Go Nuts With Homemade Nutella And Waffles story and photography by NATALIE FINDLAY

There are many nutritional benefits packed into these small filberts They are rich in dietary fibre packed with folate an excellent source of vitamin E and contain mono-unsaturated fatty acids that

can help lower bad cholesterol and raise good cholesterol By making your own Nutella at home you can control the amount of sugar that is added making this delicious spread basicallyhellip a health food

Hazelnuts have a tried and true following for taking the lead role in the chocolate spread Nutella This long-standing love affair has lasted simply because they add a distinct but subtle flavour to the chocolate Truly a match that is better together than apart

These delicious and super-easy waffles make a great base for your homemade Nutella With the addition of ground hazelnuts to the batter you can deepen the hazelnut flavour and pack in more health benefits

Waffles with raspberries and white chocolate spread

29

Natalie is a freelance writer photographer and pastry chef A graduate of Cordon Bleursquos pastry program she manages her own business too to create custom-made cakes

Using the same waffle recipe from above and switching out the mashed banana and adding frac12 a medium orange ndash juice and zest ndash to the batter you have a delicious orange waffle that will highlight the white chocolate hazelnut spread recipe below

Homemade White Chocolate Hazelnut Spread Makes 1frac12 cups

1frac12 cups (200 g) whole hazelnutsfrac12 cup (70 g) icing sugar2 Tbs (30 mL) canola oil1 tsp (5 mL) vanilla extract1 cup (250g) white chocolate

Follow directions for Homemade Nutella and add the melted white chocolate at the end Pulse to combine

Macerated Raspberries with Orange Serves 6

250 g fresh raspberriesfrac12 medium orange zest and juice1 Tbs icing sugarfrac12 tsp vanilla extract

Add all ingredients into a medium bowl and stir to combine Let sit for about 1 hour

Serve your warm waffles topped with your white chocolate homemade hazelnut spread macerated berries and a dollop of whipped cream or ice cream

Note Homemade Nutella has more texture than store bought and will last around 1 month in the fridge Waffles can be made ahead and frozen Thaw and reheat in the waffle maker or the oven

Banana Fruit compoteMakes enough for 6

3 ripe bananas peeled sliced into rounds2 Tbs (30 g) butter2 Tbs (30 g) brown sugar1frac12 tsp (8 mL) vanilla extract1frac12 tsp (8 mL) bourbon

1 Add butter and sugar to a sauteacute pan over medium heat As they melt stir to combine

2 Add vanilla and bourbon than add sliced bananas and sauteacute until warmed through

Serve your warm waffles topped with your homemade hazelnut spread sauteacuteed bananas and a dollop of whipped cream or ice cream

Homemade Nutella Makes 1frac12 cups

1frac12 cups (200 g) whole hazelnutsfrac34 cup (100g) icing sugar3 Tbs (45 mL) canola oilfrac14 cup (30 g) cocoa powder1 tsp (5 mL) vanilla extract

1 Toast hazelnuts on a baking pan in a preheated 350ordm F oven for 10 - 15 minutes Keep an eye on them to make sure they donrsquot start to burn Remove from oven and let cool to the touch

2 Wrap the nuts in a kitchen towel and rub together to remove the skins This should remove most of the skins

3 Place skinless hazelnuts in a food processor on high Process the nuts until they form a smooth paste and the oils start to separate (about 5 minutes) scraping the bowl often

4 Add the icing sugar cocoa powder vanilla and canola oil to the food processor and process until fully incorporated scraping bowl of processor as needed (about 2 minutes)

Hazelnut Banana WafflesMakes 6

frac12 cup (80 g) all purpose flour1 tsp baking powderfrac12 tsp baking sodaPinch sea salt1 Tbs (15 g) icing sugar1 Tbs (10 g) ground hazelnuts6 grates whole nutmeg1 tsp ground cinnamonfrac12 cup (125 mL) buttermilk1 egg yolk2 Tbs (30 g) butter meltedfrac12 small banana peeled and mashed1 egg white

1 Sift together all dry ingredients (except the ground hazelnuts) in a medium bowl Add the ground hazelnuts and combine

2 Mash the half banana in a small bowl with a fork Add the egg buttermilk and melted butter

3 Whisk the egg white to stiff peaks

4 Whisk the wet ingredients into the dry and fold the egg white into the mixture

5 Follow the directions for your waffle pan to cook waffles for around 5 minutes or until cooked through

Note Remember to bring the waffle pan up to temperature in between each batch of waffles

Hazelnut Banana Waffles with Nutella

30

Citrus Beer Friendsby DAVID NUTTALL

This is when the taste andor aroma of a beer can remind the drinker of anything from an orange drink or lemonade to grapefruit soda There are several ways to achieve this character and these beers are becoming more and more popular every day

Hops provide the bitterness in beer and out of the literally hundreds of varieties a few impart citrus notes into the aroma and flavour Cascade and Citra are examples of two of the most popular hops used in several styles of beer most notably the American IPA or India Pale Ale Cascade hops have been around for over 40 years and it is the single most popular hop used by the American craft brewing industry It provides a floralspicy character often reminiscent of grapefruit

Citrarsquos name leaves no guessing as to its attributes A relative newcomer this cross breed of UK German and US hop varieties has been around for less than a decade but it is already an extremely popular hop for imparting

One of the great things about beer is its diversity It can come in a myriad of colours and also a wide variety of flavours citrus being one of the most distinct

Dave Nuttall has been in the liquor and event business forever He is a qualified beer judge and ownerpresident of Epicurean Calgary at epicureancalgarycom for ten years

citrus and tropical fruit characteristics to a beer

It has proven very versatile and appears in several beer styles from session ales to IPAs It has also become a favourite hop to use for dry-hopping (adding hops late into the boil) due to the exceptional aromas it produces For even more flavour and aroma craft brewers now commonly enhance these already citrusy IPAs with actual zest peel or juice from citrus fruits to create an IPAFruit Beer hybrid which sells especially well in summer months

Then there is the yeast and many varieties of yeast can produce citrusy esters The unfiltered hefeweizens brewed on both sides of the Atlantic quite often have a lemony flavour Sour beers also showcase the yeast often cultured from Belgian strains

These beers are tart and produce a gamut of flavours many with citrus qualities and some have added fruit - the easiest and most obvious way to create a citrusy beer The Belgians also add different kinds of oranges with spice additions to their wheat ales to create wit beers now emulated all over the world with different citrus (and other) fruits involved in the recipe We also canrsquot forget the radlers which are simply a lager beer mixed with 40-60 fruit juice - often grapefruit or lemonade

Whether itrsquos added fruit the yeast the hops or a combination of all of them citrusy beers are commonplace now Thanks to new hops like Citra and the increasing popularity of wits and sours we can expect this trend to continue

Here are a few local beers with hints of citrus All are also available on tap

Beer comes in a myriad of colours and flavours citrus being one of the

most distinct

Ribstone Creek Great White CombineThis tiny Edgerton Alberta brewery has been knocking it out of the park lately Named after the ubiquitous Alberta summer hailstorm the use of Belgian yeast sweet orange peel and coriander give this beer an orange flavour in the beginning When the four different hop additions kick in it changes more to a sweet lemony flavour This White IPA has a very tropical feel that makes you forget it was made in northern Alberta CSPC +774162 $16 6-pack cans

Wild Rose Cowbell Sour ales are the new Belle of the Ball at craft breweries Often using imported Belgian yeast strains they are tart tangy and wellhellip sour Calgaryrsquos Wild Rose has taken this flavour profile and added kaffir lime leaves This makes the beer more like a refreshing limeade and is less bitter than many of its other sour counterparts CSPC +778093 $17 6-pack bottles

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VENUEBMO CENTRE STAMPEDE PARK

TICKETS AVAILABLE AT ALBERTABEERFESTIVALSCOM

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Citradelic Single Hop IPA Big Rock BreweryWith breweries in two (soon to be three) provinces Big Rock now has multiple locations to develop new beers This is the first one from their Vancouver brewery and is full of lemongrapefruit flavours and tropical aromas This beer showcases the Citra hop fooling one to think that citrus has been added when itrsquos all thanks to the hop CSPC +778593 $15 6-pack bottles

Alley Kat Main SqueezeWhat started out as a summer seasonal has now become a mainstay of this Edmonton brewery A North American style wheat ale with a 50 wheat and 50 barley mix it has added grapefruit juice but tastes more along the lines of pink grapefruit rather than its more bitter cousin CSPC +733630 $17 6-pack bottles

32

story by RENEE KOHLMAN

Cheesecake is one of those classic desserts that almost everyone loves unless of course you have a dairy allergy then yoursquoll stay far far away from it While it may seem too complicated to make at home I assure you that itrsquos not

Spice it up cheesecake

Sure there are a few steps involved but the key thing to remember is to have your eggs and cream cheese at room temperature For the best crack-free cheesecake itrsquos best to bake it in a water bath It yields a light creamy texture and is well worth the effort Cheesecake always tastes better the next day so bake it the day before you want to serve it Now that wersquove got the basics down itrsquos time to have a little fun with the crust filling and toppings

The Base

The classic graham cracker crust is fine but every now and again itrsquos great to switch things up Try

ndash Grinding up ginger cookies They work especially well for a pumpkin cheesecake

ndash Chocolate cookie crumbs are fantastic for caramel peanut butter and raspberry cheesecakes

ndash Add finely chopped nuts oats or seeds to the cookie crumbs for added texture and taste

The Middle

Therersquos something to be said for a straight up vanilla or chocolate cheesecake but with some fun add-ins they could take your cheesecake to the next level of deliciousness Try

ndash Swirling tahini dulce de leche salted caramel or chocolate fudge sauce into a creamy vanilla filling

ndash Mix in chopped chocolate peanut butter cups to a chocolate filling

ndash Drop fresh berries (raspberries blueberries blackberries) on top of a vanilla filling

ndash Stir in chopped candied ginger dried cherries or cranberries chopped toasted nuts to the filling

ndash Swap some of the cream cheese with ricotta mascarpone cheese or even strained cottage cheese

ndash You can never go wrong with lemon zest in a vanilla cheesecake

Have a little fun with the crust filling

and toppings

33

Apple Crumble CheesecakeMakes about 12-14 servings Total cook and prep time 3 hours (plus overnight chilling)

I love apple crisp and I love cheesecake This recipe is a fine marriage of both and makes a more than acceptable breakfast The base is a crumble of oats and flour the middle is classic cheesecake and itrsquos topped with cinnamon apples and a buttery oat streusel

Crust 2 cups large flake oats1 cup all purpose flour cup packed brown sugarfrac34 cup butter meltedfrac12 tsp salt

Cheesecake Layer3 - 225 g packages cream cheese at room temperature cup granulated sugar1 tsp (5 mL) vanilla3 large eggs at room temperature cup (80 mL) whipping cream

Apple Layer2 apples peeled cored and sliced about 3-4 mm thick1 tsp ground cinnamonfrac12 tsp salt

Streusel Layer1 cup large flake oatsfrac12 cup all-purpose flourfrac12 cup brown sugarfrac12 cup butter softened1 tsp ground cinnamon

Preheat the oven to 375ordm F

1 Butter the bottom and sides of a 9-inch springform pan with sides that are at least 7 cm high Wrap the bottom of the pan in aluminum foil so it comes at least halfway up the sides

2 Combine the crust ingredients in a large bowl Press the crust evenly into the pan and place on a baking sheet Bake for 10 minutes Remove from oven and let it cool on a wire rack

3 Reduce heat to 325ordm F Put a kettle of water on to boil Have a large roasting pan close by

4 Using a stand mixer with a paddle attachment beat the cream cheese at medium speed for 4 minutes scraping down the sides once or twice until it is soft and creamy With the mixer still running add the sugar and beat for another 4 minutes scraping down the sides of the bowl at least twice Beat in the vanilla Add the eggs one at a time beating for 1 minute after each addition and scraping the bowl Reduce speed to low and add the whipping cream

5 Toss the sliced apples with the cinnamon and salt in a small bowl Combine all of the streusel ingredients in a medium bowl and mix well

6 Place the springform pan in the roasting pan Give the cheesecake batter a good stir and pour it on top of the crust Arrange the apples on top and sprinkle the streusel on top of the apples

7 Place in the oven on the middle rack and pour the hot water into the roasting pan so it comes halfway up the sides of the springform pan

8 Bake the cheesecake for 1frac12 hours Turn off the heat prop open the oven door and let the cheesecake hang inside for another hour

9 Carefully remove from the oven and take out the cheesecake from the hot water bath Remove the foil and let the cheesecake come to room temperature on a wire rack Cover the top lightly and refrigerate for at least 4 hours but overnight is best The next day remove the sides of the pan and serve the cake

Renee is a food writer and pastry chef living in beautiful Saskatoon Saskatchewan Her columns appear in The Saskatoon StarPhoenix and her desserts can be enjoyed at Riverside Country Club Also check out her blog wwwsweetsugarbeancom

The Toppings

Cheesecake with no fun toppings is like a salad with no dressing it just doesnrsquot reach its full flavour potential Try

ndash Salted caramel roasted strawberry sauce or warm chocolate sauce

ndash A rhubarbcardamom compote is divine on top of vanilla cheesecake kissed with a bit of lemon zest Cherry compote is divine with chocolate cheesecake

ndash Have a favourite jam Melt it down with a tiny bit of water and drizzle it on top of your favourite cheesecake

ndash Candied nuts and citrus rind chocolate shavings even crumbled cookies are a fun way to add texture to the cheesecake

ndash Never underestimate the power of fresh seasonal berries and a well-made cheesecakeMacerate them in a little sugar and minced mint or basil and they make a lovely topping Donrsquot forget the whipped cream

34

Think about that for a moment and let that sink in like a cherry in your drink

So how old is ice in bars Well thatrsquos a whole story on its own however the Old Fashioned has been talked about in one form or another since the beginning of the 19th Century The first appearance of this classic cocktail was in the Balance and Columbian Repository newspaper in 1806 as such ldquoA stimulating liquor composed of spirits of any kind sugar water and bittersrdquo

The Old FashionedAn Iconic Drink That Has Stood The Test Of Time

by BRICE PERESSINI

Sohelliphow old is the Old Fashioned The Old Fashioned is as old as ice in bars

When you follow these instructions and put this finely-crafted cocktail into your hand swirl around the ice gaze through the caramel-coloured liquid in the glass and contemplate all that has gone into it you can rest assured you are holding a drink that has delighted taste buds for generations The Old Fashioned however has not always been held in high regard There was a time not too long ago where this fine concoction was an unbalanced fruity watered-down pale imitation of itself More recently

there has been a renaissance involved with this invigorating intoxicant and you can and should expect a proper cocktail when it is ordered at a fine establishment

When this drink is properly prepared it should be in perfect balance (as any proper drink should be) The sweetness of the sugar should not cover the flavour of the bourbon and the bitters should add to not overpower the flavour of the whiskey When the Old Fashioned is well made it is as close to cocktail perfection as a sophisticated patron could expect

Befriend a bespoke barkeep at an upstanding establishment and you will be in trusted hands If you find yourself at home and wanting for a nightcap look no further than the Old Fashioned

Enjoy friends

Old Fashioned Recipe

2 oz Buffalo Trace Bourbon (or your personal favourite)4 dashes Angostura Aromatic Bitters1 raw sugar cube

Muddle the sugar and bitters together with a touch of warm water in a rocks glass Add the bourbon then add ice Stir and garnish with an orange peel and cherry (optional)

Brice is a competition cocktail bartender who plies his trade behind the wood at Chefbar Whisk(e)y is his poison Neat

35

Shoulder Season Wines

by JACLYN ADOMEIT

Wines For Cool Weather

Refreshing white wines match with sunny patios and hot days while bold tannic red wines earn their keep by a fireplace on a winter night Common sense But what about the shoulder season What if yoursquore eating sea bass on a rainy spring day Or sipping wine on a patio during an uncommonly warm April afternoon

Photograph courtesy Tom Firth

36

Wine not only pairs with food but with temperatures and seasons A bright sauvignon blanc can taste flat and acidic on a cold night at no fault of the wine or the drinker Some white wines are other-worldly at the vineyard tasting room in the summer but fall flat when you pull them out for dinner guests in the winter

The change in taste is likely due to a number of factors Anatomically it is your sinus cavities creating the change Higher atmospheric pressures allow your nose to pick out subtle aromas while lower pressures bring out a winersquos acidity and harsh tannins CO2 degasses from liquid at low pressure leaving wines dull and flat too

Serving temperature can greatly affect a winersquos aromatics white wines chilled to near-freezing have dull aromas (Tip allow the bottle a half hour on the counter before popping the cork This will allow the aromatics to warm up enhancing the flavour)

Lastly your own palate will be partial to different flavours depending on sun snow wind and sleet but as a rule of thumb higher alcohol white wines (approximately 13 percent or more) will warm the soul and pair best with cooler weather

Here are some wine selections to go for when it is not too hot and not too cold so you can choose a pairing thatrsquos just right

Fiano

Yoursquoll notice that many of the best white wines for cold weather are grown in hot places Hot climates mean a longer growing season more sugar which leads to higher alcohol and often more robust and tropical flavours All of this is true for fiano - seldom grown outside of Campania in southern Italy Fiano produces age-worthy wines which are rich nutty and delicious

Feudi Di San Gregorio 2014 Campania Fiano di Avellino Italy A beautiful floral bouquet with candied lemon followed by honey-coated hazelnuts on the palate Worth cellaring for a few seasons The perfect dance partner for poultry CSPC +708589 $33

Viognier

Viognier is a white varietal that is best consumed at slightly higher temperatures A chilly glass of viognier will leave you with acid maybe oak and not much else Allow it to warm and you may experience peach pear and toasted almond

Traditionally grown in the warm south of France viognier is often a higher alcohol white wine with rich tropical flavours The heat of the alcohol with tropical flavours and lower acid makes viognier the perfect wine to sip while watching a late spring snowfall

Paul Mas 2014 Languedoc-Roussillon Viognier France Brimming with apricot almond lemon and ripe peach Contains hints of warming oak Pair with something savoury baked brie or spinach-filled puff pastry CSPC + 740978 $17

Dry Roseacute

There is so much more to be had from roseacute than white zinfandel And no itrsquos not just a mix of red and white wine The best roseacute is made from red skinned grapes that only sit on their skins for up to a day and a half to borrow colour and flavour then are fermented and processed

Refined examples of roseacute wines are often dry and have deep aromas of red fruits mild tannins and are savoury instead of sweet The French and Spanish craft great examples of dry roseacutes that are either a single varietal or a blend of grapes such as mourvegravedre grenache syrah or tempranillo

Muga Roseacute 2014 Rioja Grenache Viura and Tempranillo Spain A tamed Rioja Orange blossom woven together with strawberry and a palate of cherry and savoury soft cheese Ideal for charcuterie CSPC + 710261 $16

Orange Wine

Never heard of orange wine A commercial demand for natural wines has fostered a resurgence in ancient wine making practices While roseacute wines are reds that have been produced using white wine making practices orange wines are created from white grapes submitted to maceration and allowed to sit on the skins before fermentation the same practice employed in red winemaking

Unlike any white you have tasted orange wines are full-bodied have mild tannins and deep flavours - the characteristics that allow red wines to bring warmth to cool nights A must try for any wine buff

Allow the bottle a half hour on the counter

before popping the cork

The Bicicleta wines are characterized by their fruity expression and for offering more than

the traditional strains a clear example of this range`s innovation style and creativity

Cono Sur Vineyards amp Winery ConoSurVineyards ConoSurWinesconosurcom

The brewhouse at Wild Rose

Jaclynrsquos first passion was winemaking Shersquos worked in vineyards cellars and restaurants Currently she is a writer who daylights as an environmental engineer She believes that a good life like a good wine is not complete without balance

Nichol 2013 Naramata Pinot Gris Canada A Canadian example of orange wine with backbone Flavours of caramel apple roast nuts orange rind and peach CSPC +504159 $31

Oaked chardonnay

In and out with popular palates oak and chardonnay have been partners for a long time Oak paired with chardonnay can bring out butter richness toasted vanilla tree fruit and in the best examples shimmering minerality That is because oak aging is often accompanied by a malolactic fermentation process that smooths out rigid acids into lactic acid - the acid found in milk

Chardonnay is a grape of many talents and encounters a great diversity of production styles It is oaked examples that pair best with pensive rainy days They are full-bodied warming and complex

Wente Morning Fog 2014 Livermore Valley (California) Chardonnay USA Half oak-aged and malolactic-fermented half crisp and fresh this chardonnay brings together green apple vanilla and toasted oak A friend to cream sauce and roast chicken CSPC +175430 $18

In a province of mutable weather let your wine choices be as varied as the ever changing winds Cheers and herersquos to refined full-bodied cool-weather wines

38

Once yoursquore done with your magazine cover shoot like we did this month or prepping for dinner and have all of those odds and ends just sitting on the cutting board - you know carrot ends onion skins tips of celery stalks you get the point - donrsquot toss lsquoem

Instead place them into a large ziploc bag and straight into the freezer After a couple of weeks yoursquoll likely have four full freezer bags of vegetable bits ready to be turned into broth and herersquos how you do it

Making a big batch of vegetable broth doesnrsquot always mean a trip to the grocery store All you need to do is save those scraps This is a handy trick I learned years ago courtesy of Bon Appetit

No-Waste Vegetable Broth

by DAN CLAPSON

Odds And Ends BrothYields 8 cups (2 L)

12 cups (3 L) water4 full ziploc bags of vegetable trimmings1 yellow onion quartered4 cloves garlicAromatics of choice (I usually toss a couple of rosemary and thyme sprigs in there)To taste Salt and pepper

1 Place all ingredients in a large pot and bring to a boil on medium-high heat

2 Reduce to medium heat and let simmer uncovered for 1frac12 hours

3 Strain season to taste with salt and pepper and use as desired

Full circlePizza amp Oyster Bar

933 17 Ave SW bull fullcirclepizzaca

buck-a-shuck oysters

$1 oysters every night

9 pm - close Sunday-thursday 11 pm - close friday amp saturday

40

Salentein 2012 Reserve Chardonnay Uco Valley Argentina

Very very enjoyable chardonnay blowing me away with complexity varietal character and fine balance between oak lees and fruit Toffee baked apple tangerine and a little almond on the nose lead into silkily textured wine in the mouth Top shelf chardonnay that might be great with lobster tails mussels or poultry Around $20 CSPC +779479

Rutini 2013 Cabernet Malbec Mendoza Argentina

An exceptionally well put together blend - if you want rich berry fruits lots of body but maybe not tons of varietal characters from the individual components Lifted and bright fruits make for a very enjoyable glass Simply perfect for your next barbecue a roast or just chilling out with friends and family $26-30 CSPC +776822

Vinecol 2014 Organic Malbec Mendoza Argentina Fair Trade organic and vegan along with a good price is it still good Piles of fresh fruits (think smashed raspberries) with plenty of spice and soft herb-leaf aromas There are plenty of malbec flavours on the palate too Good for any day of the week with just a little tension between fruit tannin and acid it might be best with pub style burgers pulled pork or sausages About $16 CSPC +755296

Argentina is so much more than malbec While such a noble grape has found its best home in the high altitude vineyards of Argentina there is a lot going on with other grapes as well

Making The Case For Argentina

by TOM FIRTH

This massive country nestled up against the Andes mountains has a range of growing conditions suited to a number of grapes From Salta in the north to Patagonia in the south plenty of interesting wines are available here - many reasonably priced and of excellent quality So yes there are some

malbecs on these pages but please do try some of the other grapes and blends coming from Argentina too

Be sure to crack open a bottle of malbec on ldquoWorld Malbec Dayrdquo April 17 - who knows it might be nice enough to barbecue too

Photograph courtesy Tom Firth

41

Manos Negras 2011 Stone Soil Select Mendoza Argentina Quite new to the market this is a pretty enjoyable version of Argentinarsquos flagship grape Loads of blue fruit and raspberries with spices galore and a little compost Rich flavours lead to a lengthy spicy finish Yes please Bring to a barbecue if you can $21 CSPC +630541

Zuccardi 2012 Zeta Mendoza Argentina

A malbec-cabernet sauvignon blend that is also a blend of two different Mendoza appellations La Consulta and Gualtallary Deep and abundant fruit aromas with liquorice root and a touch of blueberry preserves Excellent balance of flavours on the palate too with the right structure and tannin for aging if desired Enjoy with a prime rib or even meaty pasta dishes or game $50-52 CSPC +740270

Zuccardi 2012 ldquoEmmardquo Bonarda Mendoza Argentina

In my humble opinion one of the finest bonardas coming out of Argentina Notes of coffee bean and espresso complement cherry and blackberry fruits with healthy balanced tannins to stand up to the tart fruits Delicious for sure enjoy at your next barbecue $40 CSPC +758407

Luigi Bosca 2011 Cabernet-Malbec Mendoza Argentina

A wonderfully earthy and savoury blend with plenty of tobacco spice leather and yes lots of fruit too The earthy flavours work well with the big dark chocolate flavours and weighty tannins Drink now or through 2020 or so - with a steak naturally $22-24 CSPC +766010

Trivento 2013 Golden Reserve Malbec Lujan de Cuyo Argentina While there is a trend to see a lot of premium malbecs move away from oak presence this one is a bold smooth and delicious example that is seeing about a year of oak All those berry fruits plums and herb notes malbec is known for along with the smoothness that only oak brings Kick back relax maybe cook up some steaks - enjoy About $24 CSPC +711402

Trivento 2014 Malbec Reserve Mendoza Argentina Nearly unbeatable for good malbec at a great price itrsquos rich and chocolatey on the nose with big fruits and oak tones too Mild garrigue notes or dried herb flavours with plenty of fruit and tannins - still showing a fine sense of balance Enjoy with beef $14 CSPC +730714

Luigi Bosca 2011 De Sangre Mendoza Argentina A blend of cabernet sauvignon merlot and syrah that manages to pull out the best of each varietal Earthy and slightly smoky with good fruits and plenty of versatility Tannins are well-placed against the fruits with a long smooth finish Irsquove been a fan of this wine year after year Good to keep a couple on hand in the cellar About $29 CSPC +745106

Salentein 2012 Numina Gran Corte Uco Valley Argentina A malbec-dominated Bordeaux blend this stunner is all about ripe fruits cedar pepper cherries and plum with a little tealeaf and the right amount of tannins Very very well balanced and like any great wine think about some food to go with it Beef tenderloin slow cooked meats or maybe at your next asadohellip About $40 CSPC +764706

Colonia Las Liebres 2013 Bonarda Mendoza Argentina Bear with me here - a fine bonarda with plenty of earthy smoky aromas leading to rubber charred cherries and cocoa Some pretty prominent tannins to be found as well but wow does it all come together A wine that just begs for duck with cranberries or maybe some kebabshellip$20 CSPC +773381

42

Open That Bottleby LINDA GARSON photography by INGRID KUENZEL

ldquoIf you work in a place and yoursquore miserable I donrsquot know if there is a dollar amount that can be attached to that The work that yoursquore doing has to be rewarding and challengingrdquo says Karen KhoGrowing up in Niagara Falls in a Philippino SpanishChinese family Kho was surrounded by food and drinks with an open door policy that has had a huge influence on the person she is today - an

entertainer who likes to make people feel welcome ldquoMy parents wanted me to be a lawyer there was definitely an encouragement to use my voice for goodrdquo she explains ldquoAnd I still think I help people but in a different way a very social wayrdquo

Graduating Western University with a political science degree in 2000 Kho spent a year travelling and living in Australia before taking a leap of faith and moving to Calgary Here she studied wine with the International Sommeliers Guild and WSET but says her real education was a job she adored working in the wine trade at BIN 905 in tandem with running wine programs for CRMR restaurants It was only when the opportunity came to create the wine program at Vin Room six years later that Kho leapt at the challenge of a new idea for the city and spent four happy years there

Eventually she and her partner decided to stretch their wings and went to Vancouver where Kho embarked on a six-month culinary course at the Pacific Institute of Culinary Arts ticking off another box on her bucket list ldquoI wanted a greater understanding of technique in the kitchen and I wanted an understanding of what service on a very basic level would look like if I ever owned my own place and ever had to be the person who filled inrdquo she says ldquoI feel if I was ever in a place that needed someone to chop onions Irsquom your womanrdquo she laughs

A year later the pair came back with the idea of eventually opening their own business in Calgary ldquoThe support we get from this community is heartfelt and this is a city of opportunity People with the right concept are seeing a lot of great success itrsquos still our game planrdquo she says Meanwhile Kho applied only to Teatro where she is now Group Service Director

ldquoI wanted to work at a place that had a challenging wine program and had a level of service with high expectations and where professional service teams

applyrdquo she says ldquoItrsquos pretty romantic to work for a company that has been built on a foundation of service Successful businesses in the restaurant industry get the grand picture which is the moments that yoursquore creating for people and I like to be a part of thatrdquo she adds

So what bottle is Kho saving for a special occasion

Paying homage to her time at BIN 905 Kho explains ldquoI have a bottle of 1996 Chateau Mouton Rothschild which was given to me with some very kind words on my last day at BIN Irsquove always just appreciated my time there it was where I learned the vernacular of wine and itrsquos my first job where I really saw the benefits of serving people with intentionrdquo She continues ldquoI always see it thankfully as the stepping-stone to a broader wine profession and eventually to the position that I have now It was given to me by very close friends that Irsquom still friends with to this dayrdquo

And when is she planning to open the wine

ldquoWhen (partner) Dave and I open our own restaurantrdquo Kho says This isnrsquot something that something that will happen tomorrow but fortunately the wine will last until theyrsquore ready

Charcoal-grilled prime cutsHand-muddled caipirinhas50+ salad bar optionsThree distinct private rooms

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See this weekrsquos promotion

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1316-9th Avenue SE bull (403) 514-0577 bull knifewearYYC bull knifewearcom

Culinaire April 2016indd 2 2016-03-04 501 PM

6

Salutes

and Shout Outs

Club for Carnivores

A subscription to the Carnivore Club will see a box of 4-6 cured or smoked meats with a combined weight of 1frac12-2 pounds arrive on your doorstep each month The club finds sources and features Canadian artisans who make premium charcuterie from ethically raised animals Some items will be traditional alongside more unusual items ndash think water buffalo and cranberry salami Each box comes with a handbook that describes that monthrsquos featured artisan explains what each meat is and sometimes includes pairing suggestions $50 a month includes the price of shipping and supports local family farms ndash and itrsquos all Fair Trade too they make sure the artisans are paid fairly for their quality meats We approve Check out carnivoreclubco

Hats off to Village Brewery

hellip who have teamed up with nano brewery The Dandy Brewing Company to launch the first annual Village Friend a 10 ABV Baltic Porter with deep and rich flavours of molasses and liquorice The collaboration will see part of the proceeds from this ale go to buying new pumps for Dandy a huge upgrade for the brewers ldquoThings are going well for us and we want to do our part to support Calgaryrsquos rising breweriesrdquo says Village

Breweryrsquos Jim Button We just love the concept ndash itrsquos soooo Calgary

Congrats to SAIT Team

hellip for their Meyer Lemon Mousse winner of the 2016 Pastry Chef Showcase Peoplersquos Choice Award for favourite plated dessert and to Bishwa Pati the Calgary Petroleum Club and the Delta Lodge at Kananaskis who won the Chocolate Showpiece Peoplersquos Choice Awards The event was an all-

round success raising funds for LrsquoArche Calgary and scholarships for SAIT Baking and Pastry Arts students Great job all

The Unicorn returns

After closing 11 months ago to make way for Quebec fashion retailer Simons The Unicorn Pub is back in business with its staff and many of its regular customers just half a block away from its original premises After nearly 36 years this Calgary icon has joined forces with Below Deck Tavern and the Libertine to become a three-storey superpub but still staying true to its cheerful friendly and value-driven lsquoeverybodyrsquo pub roots Welcome back

Cluck and Cleaver are open

This long-anticipated chicken takeout spot is finally open next to Boydrsquos on 14th Street SW in a stand-alone building with parking behind ndash and theyrsquore busy But we know why ndash sisters Nicole and Francine Gomes having been toying with the concept for 10 years ndash and

theyrsquove got it right Choose either super-crunchy Southern Fried or juicy Classic Rotisserie chicken by the piece or box and add a side of smoky chipotle lime corn and bean salad or creamy potato egg salad crunchy coleslaw and delicious baby roast potatoes that have soaked up all the juices from cooking with the chicken in the rotisserie Hand-cut fries fluffy buttermilk biscuits and gravy and homemade cookies are all on offer too ndash and all at great prices Yes itrsquos definitely the year for tasty take-outs

New Back Bar at Alloy

My how time flies ndash Alloy restaurant have occupied their beautiful BonnybrookManchester location for eight years and have just renovated the rear dining room and bar area to become The Back Bar by Alloy Now you can reserve a place at the bar or in one of the comfy booths for a casual drink before or after your meal Bar manager and mixologist Jake Hewitt is putting his spin on classic cocktails and chefowner Rogelio Herrera has created a very tasty snack menu of predictably delicious tempura shrimp tacos beef tartare nachos tender pork belly sliders crunchy nuts with togarashi and lime - and more

Cluck and Cleaver

INTRODUCING

A Farmerrsquos Wine

Every great wine tells a storyThis one starts with a farmer

10 Foot Henryrsquos back where he belongs

- on the ground floor of the Eagle Block where he spent 19 years upstairs in the Night Gallery 10 Foot Henry is the brainchild of Aja Lapointe and Steve Smee lately of Ox amp Angela and Una and a welcome addition to Victoria Park Veggies are the star here with meat as the supporting act theyrsquore serving up casual and creative lsquoNew North Americanrsquo comfort-food dishes - the way the couple eat at home Grab a friend and share a few plates of mash with goat yogurt ver jus and a fried egg - a sublime combination or nibble some mushroom and kale tempura with two dipping sauces or fresh and comforting roasted carrots and avocado with pistachio gremolata Bread is by Sidewalk Citizen and pasta is from Mercato and all desserts are made in house Wash it down with wine from the eclectic list or one of five organic and Fair Trade coffees from Calgaryrsquos original roaster ndash The Roasterie or one of six loose-leaf teas from the Naked Leaf See you there

Eagle Block

8

Book Review

Karen Miller is a lawyer by trade giving her a knack for picking apart a cookbook She has taught many styles of cooking classes and was part of the Calgary Dishing girls

Lick Your Plateby Julie Albert and Lisa GnatAppetite by Random House 2016 $32

by KAREN MILLER

The Bite Me Bite Me Too sisters are back this time thankfully with a little less gimmick Their cooking was always good and their passion for sharing always evident but it seems they have become more confident in their cooking

Lick Your Plate is a cookbook a lot of us will want on our kitchen shelf a compilation of recognizable recipes for family meals and entertaining alike The sisters have still managed to convey their effervescent style but the focus is on easy recipes anyone can do These girls are happy in the kitchen

It would be hard not to find some old favourites or a style of cuisine you want to try The recipes are not ldquoauthenticrdquo

but they work - they are quick and will satisfy your cravings Very few recipes have preparation times in excess of 15 minutes and the ingredients are easily found in our pantry They incorporate many styles from fast stir fries to slow cooker meals healthy grains a full range of vegetables dishes (yes including

Brussels sprouts and kale) and tempting desserts (try the Golden Apple Crisp with Salted Caramel Sauce on p 275)

The sisters have made an absolutely respectable version of a traditional Moroccan soup (Moroccan Chickpea amp Lemon Couscous Soup p 36) and who would not want to try their version of sticky buns (Luscious Lemon Sticky Buns p 243)

The cookbook still has a good sense of humour with catchy chapter titles and scattered quotes which will bring a smile to your face and do what they are intended to do - take the pressure off Enjoying the cooking process is what this cookbook is about making it easy and good enough to lick your plate

C u l i n a i r e rsquo s 2 n d A n n u a l T r e a s u r e H u n t i s S a t u r d a y A p r i l 9 t h

You may see yourself on television too this year mdash definitely another day to remember

culinairemag CulinaireMagazine culinairemag culinairemagazineca

Wersquore beyond excited for another amazing day of foodies in Calgary racing round the city to find out what treats await at over 30 destinations ndash the vast majority of which are new for 2016

Everyone went home a winner at our first annual Culinaire Treasure Hunt last year ndash and some were multiple winners We were completely sold out and it was so popular that we were trending on Twitter

Trivia questions about the participating restaurants markets and stores revealed the answers for where to dash off to receive your treat get your passport stamped and probably come away with a little culinary gift too

And there are fabulous prizes for the people who visit the most locations wear the best costumes have the funniest team names tweet the funniest photoshellip and lots lots more

This year is going to be an even more fun and rewarding day - we hope you and a partner have signed up as a team of two and registered to join us or signed up solo

Visit culinairemagazinecacontests follow us on Twitter culinairemag for the latest details and like us on facebook at facebookcomCulinaireMagazine to keep up with the news

DISCOVERCALIFORNIA WINES

ThIS IS A FuNDRAISER bENEFITINg CALgARy OpERA

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TuESDAy ApRIL 26 2016700 pm ndash 930 pm pALOmINO ROOm bmO CENTRE AT STAmpEDE pARk

$75 gST INCLuDED

FESTIVAL DES VINS

WINE FAIR

QuEbEacuteC CITy mONTREacuteAL OTTAWA TORONTO VANCOuVER CALgARy EDmONTON hALIFAX

The largest tasting tour of California wines in CanadaAlso includes a silent auction of wines not available in Canada

In todayrsquos busy world you may not get a chance to pick up

every issue of Culinaire To ensure

your copy go to culinairemagazineca to have the next ten issues delivered right

to your door

Order today mdash 10 issues for $39+gst

We Deliver

14 Ways to Spice Up Grilled Cheese | Beyond YYC Maui | Sunday Suppers

C A L G A R Y F O O D amp D R I N K R E C I P E S V O L U M E 4 N O 8 J A N U A R Y F E B R U A R Y 2 0 1 6

FOOD TRENDS FOR 2016

20+ AWARD-WINNING

TOP VALUE WINES

Beyond YYC Canmore amp Banff | Grab-and-Go | Absinthe The Green Fairy

C A L G A R Y F O O D amp D R I N K R E C I P E S V O L U M E 4 N O 9 M A R C H 2 0 1 6

RAISE A GLASS

TO WOMEN BEHIND THE BAR

AMAZING COCKTAILS TO MAKE AT HOME

For Foodies amp Beverage Lovers

10

A sure-fire favourite dish at Una Pizza + Wine Kale Caesar Salad is much requested It has all the elements of a perfect salad crunchy prosciutto and breadcrumbs and chewy kale leaves and egg for texture with grated cheese and a creamy plate-licking dressing to pull it all together Many thanks to Una Executive Chef Jen Pena for sharing it with us

Unarsquos Kale Caesar SaladServes 4

Salad2 Tbs (30 mL) olive oil plus more if needed4 thin slices prosciutto juliennedfrac12 cup panko breadcrumbsMaldon salt and black pepper2 bunches kale leaves only julienned1 cup grated Pecorino cheese2 hard boiled eggs peeled and halved (optional)

Caesar Dressing1 clove garlic4 anchovy fillets1 Tbs (15 mL) Dijon mustardZest and juice of 1 lemonfrac12 cup (120 mL) olive oil

1 Using a fork crush garlic and anchovies against the inside of a large bowl Add mustard lemon juice zest and olive oil and whisk until well emulsified Pour the dressing into a glass jar and set aside

2 Line a plate with paper towels Heat olive oil in a medium frying pan on high Add prosciutto and pan-fry until crispy about 5 minutes Transfer to the paper towel-lined plate and set aside

3 Reduce the heat to low and add panko crumbs to the pan adding a little oil if required Toast until golden about 2 minutes Scrape the panko into a small bowl season to taste with salt and set aside

4 Place kale in a large bowl pour in the dressing and toss well Season with salt and black pepper Transfer to a serving

bowl and top with grated Pecorino cheese toasted panko and crispy prosciutto Serve with the boiled eggs if desired

If therersquos a dish in a restaurant that yoursquod love to know how to make let us know at culinairemagazinecacontact-us and wersquoll do our very best to track it down for you

Off The Menu

culinairemagazinecaaba sponsors

Registrations are arriving already With the success of last yearrsquos competition

2016 will be an even greater competition this year Visit culinairemagazinecaaba

to enter your wines beers and spirits for the 2016 Alberta Beverage Awards

Have You Entered Your Wine Beers And Spirits Yet

For more information contact competition director Tom Firth tomculinairemagazineca

Registration Deadline July 1 | Judging Takes Place July 18-19-20

12

Tricks Chefs Tipsstory by ROBYN MACLEAN photography by INGRID KUENZEL Knives

The most important tool in any kitchen without a doubt is a good knife As Iron Chef Masahari Morimoto would say ldquoa kitchen without a knife is not a kitchenrdquo

I couldnrsquot agree more

For professional cooks knives are practically an extension of their hands and probably better cared for But a quality knife is just as essential for home cooks If yoursquore even slightly inclined to cook at home at the very least you should own a classic 20 cm chefrsquos knife ndash the go-to knife for the brunt of daily kitchen tasks

But itrsquos certainly not the only knife you should have in your arsenal Slicing dicing filleting butchering and julienning become a whole lot easier when you use the right knife for the job and these three Calgary chefs share their favourite model and a recipe to help point you in the right direction

䈀甀礀 琀栀攀 琀漀瀀 栀愀氀昀 漀昀 愀渀礀 戀漀琀琀氀攀 漀昀 眀椀渀攀 戀攀琀眀攀攀渀 瀀洀ⴀ㘀瀀洀 愀渀搀 最攀琀 琀栀攀 戀漀琀琀漀洀 琀栀攀 昀甀渀 栀愀氀昀⤀ 昀漀爀 䘀刀䔀䔀

䘀刀

䔀䔀

䴀伀一䐀䄀夀 ⴀ 䘀刀䤀䐀䄀夀 瀀洀 ⴀ㘀瀀洀

瀀爀椀挀攀 戀漀琀琀氀攀猀 漀昀 眀椀渀攀㔀 戀漀琀琀氀攀猀 漀昀 戀攀攀爀㔀 栀椀最栀戀愀氀氀猀

䠀䄀䰀䘀 䘀刀䔀䔀 圀䤀一䔀

㔀 㔀 Ⰰ 㠀 䄀 瘀 攀 匀 圀 Ⰰ 䌀 愀 氀 最 愀 爀 礀 Ⰰ 䄀 䈀 吀 倀 䜀

Pacific Albacore Tuna CrudoServes 4

335 g Pacific albacore tuna 1 honey crisp or granny smith apple 4 cloves of garlic thinly sliced frac12 tsp ground espelette chili frac14 cup (60 mL) sunflower oil frac14 cup (60 mL) flax oil 1 Tbs lightly toasted flax seed 8 pickled string beans (keep some pickling liquid)4 slices of prosciutto 1 Tbs (1 mL) rice vinegar Pea shoots Good quality finishing salt like fleur de sel

1 Slice garlic as thinly as possible and combine with sunflower oil in a small saucepan Heat slowly and allow the garlic to fry until golden brown Remove from heat and add the ground espelette chili

2 Allow the oil to steep for 15-20 minutes at room temperature Once cool add flax oil

Chef Matthias Fong

3 Slice 8 pickled string beans thinly into rounds

4 Dice the apple into 1 cm cubes and add a splash of the pickled string bean liquid as well as rice vinegar add to the sliced string beans

5 Set up 4 plates Slice the tuna into frac34 cm thick slices and lay out 85 g per plate Using the finishing salt season the tuna to taste

6 Pull the prosciutto slices apart into bite-sized pieces and scatter them with the tuna slices

7 Drizzle 1 Tbs (15 mL) flax oil over each plate with a few slices of the fried garlic from the oil on each plate

8 Scatter the apple and string bean mixture over the slices of tuna being sure to spoon some of the pickling liquid from the bowl over the tuna slices Finish with pea shoot tips and toasted flax seed

Chef Matthias FongRiver Cafeacute

A good quality knife is made from high quality steel usually German or Japanese which will stay sharp for a long period of time and has the potential to last a lifetime

Owning a stainless steel knife versus one made from high carbon steel is also extremely beneficial in any kitchen Itrsquos easy for a knife to end up in the sink which can leave non-stainless varieties rusted and ruined

ldquoRegardless of style or brand itrsquos never safe to let knives go dull Dull knives lead to excessive force and can easily slip off the product yoursquore cuttingrdquo cautions Fong

ldquoTo properly care for a knife I recommend investing in some sharpening stone andor a ceramic honing rod which prolongs the life of your knife and requires less sharpening I also suggest signing up for a class to learn the art of sharpening or just take your knives directly to the folks at Knifewear and theyrsquoll gladly maintain for yourdquo

ldquoMy go-to knife is the Tojiro Flash 825-inch slicer Itrsquos short in length making it versatile for a variety of uses I use it for the majority of my prep work but itrsquos ideal for slicing and carving The narrow blade allows for paper thin slicing on delicate fish like tunardquo says Fong

ldquoI favour the Tojiro line of knives because they offer stainless Japanese steel thatrsquos easy to sharpen and repairrdquo

14

Chef Kai SalimaumlkiThe Block

Chef Salimaumlki is all about a great multipurpose knife ldquoI love the Masakage Kumo Petty 150 mm knife Itrsquos ideal for numerous tasks in the kitchen but I especially love it for chopping fine herbs Itrsquos lightweight and has a remarkably sharp edge that has chives bouncing from under it in perfect uniform circlesrdquo he explains

The Petty knife is ideal for smaller jobs such as slicing shallots cutting herbs and boning smaller proteins And because of its size itrsquos also a great alternative for those who feel uncomfortable wielding a larger heavier chefrsquos knife

ldquoI would recommend this knife for the home cook as it can replace many utility knives people seem to collect in drawers And of course most importantly I recommend proper love attention and care to ensure you keep this tool functioning for a very long timerdquo

You simply canrsquot do your best without your equipment at its best

Chef Jorel ZielkeBrasserie Kensington and Winebar

ldquoIrsquom a huge fan of my 10frac34-inch MAC chefrsquos knife This multipurpose knife is modeled after the standard French chefrsquos kniferdquo says Zielke

Sirloin Beef TartareServes 2

335 g AAA beef sirloin2 Tbs (30 mL) grainy mustard cup minced shallots Tbs minced gherkins2 Tbs cup finely chopped parsley Worcestershire sauce to tasteHot sauce to tasteCold pressed canola oil to taste 1 egg yolk in tact with all whites removedPinch of fresh grated horseradishSalt and pepper

1 Finely dice the sirloin removing any connective tissue or silver-skin Do not trim off the fat Pass over the meat several times with your knife

2 Mix in mustard shallots gherkins parsley Worcestershire hot sauce oil and salt and pepper

3 Note All garnish measurements are suggestions as tartares vary to personal taste Add enough oil to moisten dish but be careful not to oversaturate

4 Top tartare with raw egg yolk and freshly grated horseradish

5 Serve with anything you can pick it up with such as crostini crackers fresh bread fresh heirloom tomato or crisp lettuce

ldquoI canrsquot emphasize enough the importance of respecting your tools by keeping them clean and properly functioning to avoid safety issues You simply canrsquot do your best without your equipment at its bestrdquo

ldquoA sharp knife is key when dicing raw meat like in my recipe belowrdquo he continues ldquoKeep in mind that itrsquos not firm like an onion or a stick of celery Meat shifts and moves as you prepare it so itrsquos important to slow down and take your time when preparing a dish like tartarerdquo

Chef Jorel Zielke

Chef Kai Salimaumlki

15

Robyn is a public relations professional and occasional writer with a passion for food and beverages Despite city hopping from her home in Calgary to Anchorage AK you can still find her on Twitter robynalana

Braised Brisket with Carrot Puree and Napa Cabbage Serves 4

900 ndash 1125 g brisket5 carrots peeled and sliced 12-16 baby potatoes 1 head of Napa cabbage julienned5 parsnips peeled and sliced 2 tomatoes quartered2 yellow onions quartered1 yellow onion thinly sliced6 sprigs of thyme4 sprigs of rosemary 6 whole cloves of garlic3-4 Tbs butter1 Tbs black peppercornsCanola oil4 cups (1 L) beef stock or water1 cup (240 mL) of milkHoney to tasteSalt and pepper 1 Season brisket liberally with salt and pepper (you can braise whole or cut it into smaller chunks)

2 In a large sauteacute pan heat canola oil until it has reached its smoking point Sear the meat on all sides until golden brown and caramelized

3 Remove from pan and place in a large ovenproof baking dish covering with beef stock (or water) Add peppercorns two sprigs of rosemary 4 sprigs of thyme whole garlic tomatoes and the quartered onions

4 Cover with tin foil and braise for approximately for 3-3frac12 hours at 325ordm F or until fork tender

5 Remove from the braising juices spoon off any excess fat and strain juices into a saucepot reduce on a medium heat until a nice thick sauce has formed

6 For carrot puree add two tablespoons of butter in a heavy bottomed saucepan and sauteacute sliced onion and diced carrots together over medium heat Yoursquore not looking to brown the vegetables but rather simmer in the butter

7 After 10 minutes cover the mixture with milk add 2 sprigs of thyme and season with salt Simmer until soft and tender

8 Strain the carrots and reserve the milk throw out the thyme sprigs Place the carrots and onions in a blender and slowly add the milk until a nice puree is achieved check seasoning and thickness and adjust if necessary Set aside 9 Sauteacute julienned cabbage in a tablespoon of butter season with salt and add 2 tablespoons of water Reduce heat and cook for 5 minutes stirring frequently

ldquoI recommend proper love attention and care to ensure you keep this tool functioning for a

very long timerdquo

10 Toss sliced carrots and parsnips with honey chopped rosemary and thyme season with salt and pepper and roast in the oven for an hour at 325ordm F or until tender 11 Boil the baby potatoes in heavily salted water until fork tender

12 To serve set up 4 plates and spoon carrot puree on the bottom of the plate in a circle Arrange potatoes carrots and parsnips around the plate place Napa cabbage in the middle and place brisket on top Spoon the reduced braising liquid over the meat

16

As Nemeth chats with customers other vendors and friends who stop by her enthusiastic greetings and joyous laughter are hard to ignore mdash this is a woman who clearly likes people In fact she loves them Warm hearty and full of surprises the words used to describe Nemethrsquos personality can just as easily be used to describe her soup

The Primal Soup Co is a fairly new entity mdash the frozen containers of soup with flavours like Mango Butternut Squash Spinach Artichoke and Feta and Thai Coconut Chicken first showed up at the Market on MacLeod (then the

Going To MarketPrimal Soup Company Finds Its Homeby ELIZABETH CHORNEY-BOOTH photography by INGRID KUENZEL

If you happen to spy Margaret Nemeth at one of her Primal Soup Company booths at the Crossroads Market or the Market on MacLeod yoursquoll immediately see that the energetic atmosphere of a Farmersrsquo Market suits her

Kingsland Farmersrsquo Market) in 2011 mdash but Nemeth is not new to the food and beverage game

Long-time Calgarians may recognize the Primal name and the taste of Nemethrsquos homemade soups from the now defunct Primal Grounds Cappuccino Bar and Eatery in Killarney which Nemeth owned and ran from 1996 through to 2010

Nemeth opened that business after a career in oil and gas and the stand-alone cafeacute was a solid success for her Not only did it serve up great coffee Nemeth quickly made a name for herself with her homemade soup creations All homemade and gluten-free (due to Nemethrsquos own dietary restrictions) Primal Grounds was catering to people with gluten intolerances long before it became fashionable

ldquoWe were pioneers and it was so much funrdquo Nemeth says ldquoThere were lots of ups and downs but it was a good liferdquo

ldquoWhen yoursquore in a market you have to give people reasons to stoprdquo

Margaret Nemeth

17

Nemeth sold the cafeacute when a real estate developer made her an offer she couldnrsquot refuse but she still felt the urge to be around people and feed them So she set up shop in the markets - first the Market on MacLeod and then in January of 2015 she opened a stall in the rebranded Crossroads Market

Elizabeth Chorney-Booth is a Calgary-based writer and co-founderco-editor of RollingSpooncom and Wapawekkacom She enjoys exploring the connection between music and food through interviews with musicians and chefs

Primal Soup also sells lunch items like gourmet macaroni and cheese sandwiches and homemade pies and pastries so that market wanderers can stop by the stall and grab a full lunch while perusing the soup cooler for something to take home for a future meal

ldquoWhen yoursquore in a market you have to give people reasons to stoprdquo Nemeth says ldquoSo we offer things to go with the soup which also gives them ideas for what they can do at home Or sometimes theyrsquoll come for a sandwich and then theyrsquoll look at the soups You have to give people reasons to be in this spacerdquo

ldquoWe were pioneers and it was so much funrdquo

Whatever Nemeth is doing it seems to be working Between the two farmersrsquo markets and specialty retailers like the Market on 17th Sunnyside Market and SPUD delivery boxes Primal Soup Co sells over 1000 containers of soup every week Nemeth develops the recipes herself but has hired a full-time chef to keep up with the demand Personality and strategic stall locations in busy farmersrsquo markets alone isnrsquot enough to move that kind of volume of soup mdash while Nemeth has made smart business decisions over the course of Primalrsquos various incarnations the key to her success really lies in the product itself Everything is made from scratch without the aid of pre-bought soup bases and Nemeth uses seasonal ingredients (only 20 to 30 of her 50 soup varieties are ever available at any given time) supporting her neighbours at the markets when possible Her meat stocks are built from organic chicken bones Wintersrsquo turkey carcasses and duck bones from fellow market vendor Green Eggs and Ham to build a rich and delicious broth ldquoI layer my soupsrdquo Nemeth says ldquoI donrsquot just throw everything in the pot together And there has to be a twist in every one There has to be something

that you donrsquot expect mdash a surprise in every boxrdquo

To bring things full circle Nemeth has a new venture that just opened kitty corner to her Primal Soup stall in the Crossroads Market a beautiful and shiny new Primal Grounds coffee location With a long counter for people to sit at for as long as they like (Nemeth jokes that itrsquos the perfect place for bored spouses to sit while their partners shop the market) itrsquos an updated nod to what got Primal Soup started in the first place

And itrsquos also a testament to Nemethrsquos dedication to market life mdash the lack of control she has over her own hours and some other aspects arenrsquot perfect but the busyness the proximity to like-minded vendors and most of all the people she gets to interact with on a constant basis has put Nemeth exactly where she belongs ldquoYoursquore only as strong as the market is collectivelyrdquo she says ldquoItrsquos different than being a restaurant but I have to say itrsquos the funnest thing Irsquove ever donerdquo

ldquoThere has to be something that you donrsquot

expect mdash a surprise in every boxrdquo

18

Soup Kitchenstory and photography by DAN CLAPSON

The fresh hang-up-your-winter-jacket feeling is finally in the air ndash and that my friends is a wonderful thing Gone are the days where wersquove looked forward to spooning into a big bowl of creamy soup or sitting down to some chicken noodle soup to help shake off the winter sniffles These days Irsquom more concerned with light and bright flavours and less calorie-ridden meals

so I wonrsquot look completely undesirable in a swimsuit come June

Here are two great recipes that just happen to be vegan but are bursting with flavour

Serves 5 Total cook time 35 minutes

6 cups (15 L) vegetable broth1 cup (240 mL) white wine1 cup (240 mL) water2 Tbs (30 mL) tomato paste2 cups dry green lentils1 red onion halved and thinly sliced1 small fennel bulb halved and thinly sliced2 tsp (10 mL) maple syrup1 tsp dried oreganofrac12 tsp ground turmericfrac12 tsp chili flakesfrac12 tsp ground cinnamon1 pinch nutmeg2 cups thinly sliced red Swiss chardTo taste salt and pepper

1 Place broth wine water and tomato paste in a large pot and bring to a simmer on medium-high heat Add lentils and cook for 15 minutes

2 Add onion fennel maple syrup and spices and continue to cook for 15 minutes

Spiced Green Lentil and Chard Soup

3 Add Swiss chard and cook until leaves are tender about 2-3 minutes Season to taste with salt and pepper and serve

Dan Clapson is a freelance food writer and columnist in Calgary When hersquos not writing about Canadarsquos amazing culinary scene he is likely listening to 80s rock or 90s boy bands Follow him on twitter dansgoodside

Spinach and Cashew Soup with Poblano and Scallion Salsa

Serves 4 Total cook time 30 minutes not including cashew soak time

Soup1frac12 cups roasted cashews2 cups (500 mL) water4 cups (1 L) vegetable broth4 cups cooked spinach1 Tbs (15 mL) apple cider vinegar1 Tbs (15 mL) maple syrupfrac12 tsp cayenne peppersalt and pepper to tastecashew butter for garnish optional

1 Place cashews and water in a container cover and let sit on counter overnight

2 Combine cashews water and remaining soup ingredients in a blender and pureacutee until very smooth

3 Pour contents of blender through a fine mesh strainer into a medium pot Bring to a simmer on medium-high heat and cook for 15 minutes Season to taste with salt and pepper and keep warm on stove until ready to serve

4 Place a couple of spoonfuls of the salsa into each bowl and ladle soup around it Add a couple of dollops of cashew butter for a little extra richness

Salsa1 large poblano pepper halved and seeds removed1 bunch scallions2 Tbs (30 mL) canola oil2 Tbs fresh mint roughly chopped1 tsp (5 mL) lemon juicefrac12 tsp cane sugarfrac12 tsp chili flakessalt and pepper to taste

1 Preheat oven to 400ordm F

2 Place poblano halves and scallions on a baking sheet drizzle with oil and roast until slightly charred about 15-18 minutes

3 Remove from oven allow to cool slightly then give them a rough chop

4 Add to a bowl with remaining ingredients and toss to combine Season liberally with salt and pepper

20

Photograph courtesy California Wine Institute

Ever since Napa Valley cabernet sauvignons and chardonnays bested their more historic counterparts from Bordeaux and Burgundy in the now-famous Judgment of Paris tasting in 1976 California and its flagship region have carried the torch for the bold dense fruity lushly oaked wines that brought them worldwide fame

Forty years later this sun-drenched style of wines remains both unapologetically enjoyable and wildly popular and Napa is on the bucket list of any devoted wine tourist But as tastes and trends start to evolve away from a focus on power and concentration towards greater elegance and food-friendliness winemakers in California are again taking to the frontier gravitating towards the statersquos physical and climatic extremes to explore new boundaries of flavour and complexity Californiarsquos cooler corners

California Coolby PETER VETSCH

California is a land of frontiers dangling on the edge of the Pacific home of the Gold Rush and epicentre of the New Worldrsquos insurgence onto the global wine scene

are fast becoming its second face in the world of wine

Sonoma County north of San Francisco and just west of Napa is probably Californiarsquos second best-known region almost equally recognized for its cabernets chardonnays and zinfandels The largest subregion in the county taking up almost a third of its total area is the western Sonoma Coast too expansive at 500000 acres to have a distinct identity

However the western border of this appellation a razorrsquos edge straddling the ocean locally known as the ldquotruerdquo Sonoma Coast showcases the regionrsquos true character - extreme viticulture wet cool and always windy at elevations up to 2000 feet balanced on the San Andreas Fault with many vines growing above the fog line and constantly exposed to the throes of the Pacific Pinot noir takes on a unique expression here on low-yielding vines in the cool above the rest of Sonoma offering both remarkable purity of fruit and astonishing acidity and structure

Pinot is also predominant in the relatively new Santa Rita Hills subregion of the Santa Ynez Valley located an hour and a half northwest of Los Angeles and similarly perched right alongside the ocean The maritime influence dominates the microclimate and counteracts the California sun with fog and cool breezes to the point where this coastal spot becomes a near ideal substitute for chilly Burgundy Here the core Burgundian varietals of pinot noir and chardonnay thrive in a particularly striking edgy way

Santa Ynez is the only wine region in the western hemisphere where the arearsquos defining mountain range runs east-west instead of north-south creating a sort of maritime wind tunnel that sucks cold Pacific air eastward This leads to some of the largest diurnal (day to night) temperature shifts in North America and allows inland grapes ripening in the scorching daytime heat to recharge and maintain acidity at night This special geological feature allows a wide range of reds in Santa Ynez to be juicy but still structured bold yet balanced from cabernet and merlot to syrah and grenache

Halfway between the Sonoma Coast to the north and the Santa Rita Hills to the south along yet another coastline

California can comfortably both provide continuity

and defy stereotype

Wine Picks

Peter is a local lawyer by day and wine writer by night maintaining his own wine blog at popandpourca He is always on the lookout for the next way to experience wine and the next good bottle to try

A LITTLE SIBLING RIVALRY NEVER HURT ANYBODY

FOUR SETTINGS ONE PHILOSOPHY crmrcom338 - 17th Avenue SW

c i l a n t ro

747 Lake Bonavista Dr SE113 - 8th Avenue SW 340 - 17th Avenue SW

Sequoia Grove 2012 Cabernet Sauvignon (Napa Valley)Textbook cabernet from Naparsquos heart of Rutherford with deep black fruit mint and cedarhellip and a survivable price tag CSPC +740382 $56

Hartford Court Landrsquos Edge Vineyard Pinot Noir (Sonoma Coast)The ferocity of the Sonoma Coast somehow creates the picture of elegance in this juicy yet delicate pinot CSPC +717210 $60

Domaine de la Cote 2013 Pinot Noir (Sta Rita Hills) Seriously pushes the boundaries picked almost insanely early for low-alcohol herbal pomegranate and rhubarb acidic tension and energy CSPC +761893 $58

Alice May Crosswinds Syrah (Santa Ynez Valley) A syrahviognier Cote Rotie-style co-ferment that matches Cali ripeness with surprising verve and delicacy CSPC +761131 $28

Ridge 2013 Geyserville (Santa Cruz Mountains)This will change your expectations of zinfandel A zin-heavy field blend it combines the best of its mountain altitude and the California sun CSPC +426379 $55

just south of San Jose the wineries of the Santa Cruz Mountains prove again that those seeking to make modern moderate wines in California head both west and up The highest vineyards in Santa Cruz despite being just miles from the ocean are at 2600 feet this significant altitude and the cool Pacific climate results in chiseled wines with controlled ripeness and serious staying power

The region is both expansive and miniscule with only 1500 of its 480000 acres currently planted to grapes and its very-California plantings (cabernet chardonnay pinot noir zinfandel and merlot) all take on an Old World character and rusticity from its rugged terrain and stony mineral-laden soils Despite the challenges associated with growing grapes on a cool rock face Santa Cruz is a state leader in sustainable growing practices

The friendly sunny face of California wine is surely here to stay but Santa Cruz Santa Ynez and the Sonoma Coast are permanent proof that the state is readily capable of more than one expression With its range of climate and terrain California can comfortably both provide continuity and defy stereotype

22

En GardeA Beginnerrsquos Guide To Knives And Their Usesby ANNA BROOKS

Itrsquos difficult to imagine that sharp little number thatrsquos slicing away to the rhythm of your favourite cooking music (or to the beating of child-size fists hungry for dinner) was more often used for combat not chopping carrots

Despite King Louis XIVrsquos decree that the tips of knives be ground down to reduce violence in the mid-1600s kitchen knives still (for quite pointed reasons) make popular murder weapons

But we wonrsquot get into grisly stories of guts and gore here Whether yoursquore a chef extraordinaire or the person whose knife knowledge goes as far as cutting

vegetables with a steak knife there are some things everyone should know about knives

The first major thing we must insist upon is putting down that expensive 14-piece knife set As most knife experts can attest to three main knives can cover almost all the work that a layman cook needs to do in the kitchen

23

Three main knives can cover almost all the work that a layman cook needs

to do in the kitchen

Chefrsquos Knife Your standard knife for mincing and slicing vegetables and meat a chefrsquos knife is typically 20-25 cm long but can range all the way up to 36 cm

Luke Pickett from Knifewear is a sight to see wielding some wickedly sharp

handcrafted Japanese models but despite their carnivorous look Pickett said therersquos really nothing to fear

ldquoThere are a lot of people who are scared of really large knivesrdquo Pickett said ldquoBut having good quality kitchen equipment will make your life easierrdquo

For beginners a standard 20 cm chefrsquos knife (although Pickett said blade length is purely based on personal preference) is best to start with but a Japanese Santoku knife mdash an elegant slightly smaller version of a chefrsquos knife mdash will certainly get the job er meal done

Paring KnifeOn the other side of the knife spectrum is the pocket-sized paring knife (note carrying knives in pockets not recommended)

Regan Johnson assistant manager at The Cookbook Co said besides what the individual using a steak knife to cut everything might think the small intricate work required of a paring knife (such as peeling and trimming) should not be done on a cutting board

ldquoParing is anything you can be doing in the air mdash yoursquore not ever supposed to use a paring knife on a boardrdquo she explained

Johnson added that for someone like herself who does almost as much blade-wielding as a samurai she also recommends a utility knife

which is a hybrid of a chefrsquos knife and a paring knife

ldquoI reach for my utility knife a lotrdquo she said ldquoItrsquos got that shape of a paring knife but is longer Itrsquos just for those things in between that you donrsquot need your giant chefrsquos knife forrdquo

Bread KnifeThe last of the big three is of course a bread knife Have you ever tried to cut a loaf of bread with a straight blade Not so easy (or safe) a task

Itrsquos sometimes difficult to do but no matter the type of knife yoursquore using itrsquos important to try and slice as opposed to chopping or sawing It

is quite tempting (and often seems easier) to saw away at the crispy crust of a floured loaf of sourdough but Knifewearrsquos Pickett said sawing can

be a slippery slope to your bread knifersquos grave

ldquoIf you slice you can use the entire blade and itrsquos a lot sharper along the edgerdquo he explained ldquoItrsquos important to get a good bread knife because you canrsquot sharpen them like you can any other sort of kniferdquo

The Big Three

24

Having good quality kitchen equipment will

make your life easier

Anna Brooks is an award-winning journalist from Calgary Alberta She has worked internationally in Thailand and Africa and has been published in Metro BeatRoute Magazine and the Calgary Journal She also enjoys animal rights fantasy fiction and whiskey sours

Tips and TricksOf course you can adorn your kitchen with the countless others belonging to the knife family mdash cleavers carvers boning knives cheese knives etc mdash but if yoursquore not planning on hacking through solid bone anytime soon you probably donrsquot need to spend $200 on a meat cleaver

But there are some other knife-related implements that are important to have in your kitchen

First off a proper cutting board While plastic cutting boards are versatile and can be chucked in the dishwasher wood is really the best way to go Cutting boards are the quickest way to ruin a knife so steer clear of fancy-looking glass or granite boards mdash they are the antagonists of our story

Itrsquos also not a bad idea to have a knife honer on hand As a reminder (or for

those who had no idea what that random rod in the kitchen was used for) honers are for honing not sharpening

ldquoWith use the metal fibres in a knife edge can get bent to one side or another All yoursquore doing with honing is straightening those fibres back outrdquo Johnson from The Cookbook Co explained ldquoSharpening means yoursquore actually removing material and grinding the metal down to a finer edgerdquo

Johnson added that while you can sharpen at home she always recommends getting your knives sharpened professionally at least once a year depending on how much theyare used

Before you go back to making your lazy-day grilled cheese sandwich or that complex stew yoursquove spent hours on we just want to remind you of whatrsquos called ldquothe pinch griprdquo

Not to sound snobbish but grabbing a knife by the handle and hacking away is poor form Use your thumb and index finger to grasp the blade and then wrap your remaining fingers under the bolster of the knife Shape your other hand into a claw to protect your fingertips from accidentally getting lopped off firmly grasp the object to be cut and slice away

If this knowledge was present in the 17th century perhaps old King Louis XIV would be tipping his crown to more cooks not kitchen knife combatants

25

Times Are A Changing Unexpected Take-Outs

by LINDA GARSON and DIANA NG photography by INGRID KUENZEL

Therersquos no denying that many of our cityrsquos restaurants are feeling the effects of the current economic downturn fewer people working downtown ndash indeed fewer people working altogether and so looking to save money by eating out less means many bricks and mortar restaurants are having to get creative with ways to fully utilise their kitchens and staff

High rents exacerbate the situation so itrsquos time for Calgary restaurateurs to think outside the box and proving to be the innovative entrepreneurs that wersquore known for many are diversifying their offerings to include take-out options both raw and cooked

Catch amp The Oyster Bar launched their ldquoBuy Catchrdquo program where you can pick up fresh Ocean Wise seafood to take home and cook (complete with recipes) along with house-made clam chowder and sauces nearly two years ago There are big savings to be had over dining in with no costs for linen or staff and no expectation to tip

Here are four Calgary eateries also getting clever with take-out

programs that are not widely publicised - and may

open a few eyes

26

Centini Restaurant

Itrsquos not a cookie cutter program but the magic of Centinirsquos take-out is that you can ask the kitchen for ideas of what you should have for dinner People even text the servers for suggestions and to order Loyal customers mostly busy businessmen were asking if they catered but without the staff for such a service Centini started offering to prepare dishes for them to cook themselves

Now you can get your favourite restaurant dishes from rack of lamb with red wine demi-glace AAA Alberta beef tenderloin with Gorgonzola pan sauce and sea bass with ginger cream sauce ready to cook at home ldquoWersquore not going to open a bricks and mortar restaurant down south but our food is going thererdquo says Chevonne Centini Theyrsquore seeing pick-ups such as for people stuck at home with a new baby and even 40 people for a funeral

Boxwood

Itrsquos hard to believe that the quality of food coming from the sister restaurant to River Cafe can be had at home and we are not talking about leftovers When

People take home uncooked homemade pasta with sauce separately and even bread dough and often freeze it to cook later or pick up on a Friday evening so everything is prepared ready for Saturday dinner When buying from a restaurant yoursquore getting top quality perfectly trimmed meat everything is done for you - therersquos no shopping

around and even the parsley is chopped And as everything is custom-made all allergies are catered for too

Centini gets fish delivered once or twice every day and it may come as a surprise but with a chef garde manger that spent 15 years in Japan they have customers coming just to take out sushi

you go home to an empty fridge it feels like the only options you have are fast food or pizza Not so

Boxwoodrsquos fresh and seasonal fare is also available to take home While you wonrsquot

be able to enjoy the quaint atmosphere of the restaurant you can order anything on the menu for take out with its special offering being the whole rotisserie free-range chicken which serves two to four people for $40

Many bricks and mortar restaurants are

having to get creative with ways to fully utilise their

kitchens and staff

You will need to call a few hours ahead (the website states before 200 pm) for enough notice for the chicken but for the rest of the selection like its soups and sandwiches you can simply look up the menu online and call to place an order For a perfect night in may we suggest starting with its bison tartare then moving onto the porchetta and another main before finishing off the meal with a slice of pie

27

Gaucho

For most people the elaborate setup of Brazilian barbecue is one of its biggest attractions You may not know this and while you may not be able to take home the lively decor of Gaucho you can actually take the meal home

The spit packed tightly with freshly roasted meats the sign at the table that signals yoursquore ready for more and the roasted and caramelized pineapple that tops off the meal all contribute to the atmosphere but if all you want are the meats and sides for a hefty dinner you can certainly order the meal as a take-out

Order any of the four options (top sirloin pork loin chicken wings or mild sausage) and add three sides from the list of eight which includes a variety of salads black bean stew and rice And because you canrsquot just have one kind of meat when it comes to Brazilian barbecue you can choose additional

Safari Grill

The marinated thinly sliced BBQ short beef ribs at Safari Grill are already a must-have for those in the know but we suspect even regulars will be surprised to discover that you can pick

up uncooked ribs with your choice of seven marinades to take home and BBQ yourself

With none of the associated costs of dining in $65 buys you enough ribs for 10 people and customers actually drive

meats for $4 each Finally choose the sauce yoursquod like to accompany your meal Orders for over five people will come in a big white box and individual

orders come will in regular take-out containers For big parties do call a few hours ahead All you need to make at home is the caipirinha

from Saskatchewan to take away 10-15 lb bags of these uncooked marinated ribs Some people call and ask for them to be marinated and frozen in 5 lb bags to enjoy later as just 5-7 minutes each side on a high flame has the raw ribs ready to eat

And itrsquos not only ribs that people BBQ at home Mishkaki are skewers of marinated chicken beef and prawns and for as little as $3 each you can have a very inexpensive BBQ feast Marinated raw lamb chops are also available or ask for Samaki - a marinated whole tilapia that comes with a basting sauce to brush on You can even get uncooked samosas to cook in your oven at home

All Safari Grillrsquos regular menu can be ordered for take-out but there is no published price list for uncooked dishes so people call to order and ask - but when yoursquore picking up look out for the new jars of house-made mango and lemon pickles

28

Step By Step Go Nuts With Homemade Nutella And Waffles story and photography by NATALIE FINDLAY

There are many nutritional benefits packed into these small filberts They are rich in dietary fibre packed with folate an excellent source of vitamin E and contain mono-unsaturated fatty acids that

can help lower bad cholesterol and raise good cholesterol By making your own Nutella at home you can control the amount of sugar that is added making this delicious spread basicallyhellip a health food

Hazelnuts have a tried and true following for taking the lead role in the chocolate spread Nutella This long-standing love affair has lasted simply because they add a distinct but subtle flavour to the chocolate Truly a match that is better together than apart

These delicious and super-easy waffles make a great base for your homemade Nutella With the addition of ground hazelnuts to the batter you can deepen the hazelnut flavour and pack in more health benefits

Waffles with raspberries and white chocolate spread

29

Natalie is a freelance writer photographer and pastry chef A graduate of Cordon Bleursquos pastry program she manages her own business too to create custom-made cakes

Using the same waffle recipe from above and switching out the mashed banana and adding frac12 a medium orange ndash juice and zest ndash to the batter you have a delicious orange waffle that will highlight the white chocolate hazelnut spread recipe below

Homemade White Chocolate Hazelnut Spread Makes 1frac12 cups

1frac12 cups (200 g) whole hazelnutsfrac12 cup (70 g) icing sugar2 Tbs (30 mL) canola oil1 tsp (5 mL) vanilla extract1 cup (250g) white chocolate

Follow directions for Homemade Nutella and add the melted white chocolate at the end Pulse to combine

Macerated Raspberries with Orange Serves 6

250 g fresh raspberriesfrac12 medium orange zest and juice1 Tbs icing sugarfrac12 tsp vanilla extract

Add all ingredients into a medium bowl and stir to combine Let sit for about 1 hour

Serve your warm waffles topped with your white chocolate homemade hazelnut spread macerated berries and a dollop of whipped cream or ice cream

Note Homemade Nutella has more texture than store bought and will last around 1 month in the fridge Waffles can be made ahead and frozen Thaw and reheat in the waffle maker or the oven

Banana Fruit compoteMakes enough for 6

3 ripe bananas peeled sliced into rounds2 Tbs (30 g) butter2 Tbs (30 g) brown sugar1frac12 tsp (8 mL) vanilla extract1frac12 tsp (8 mL) bourbon

1 Add butter and sugar to a sauteacute pan over medium heat As they melt stir to combine

2 Add vanilla and bourbon than add sliced bananas and sauteacute until warmed through

Serve your warm waffles topped with your homemade hazelnut spread sauteacuteed bananas and a dollop of whipped cream or ice cream

Homemade Nutella Makes 1frac12 cups

1frac12 cups (200 g) whole hazelnutsfrac34 cup (100g) icing sugar3 Tbs (45 mL) canola oilfrac14 cup (30 g) cocoa powder1 tsp (5 mL) vanilla extract

1 Toast hazelnuts on a baking pan in a preheated 350ordm F oven for 10 - 15 minutes Keep an eye on them to make sure they donrsquot start to burn Remove from oven and let cool to the touch

2 Wrap the nuts in a kitchen towel and rub together to remove the skins This should remove most of the skins

3 Place skinless hazelnuts in a food processor on high Process the nuts until they form a smooth paste and the oils start to separate (about 5 minutes) scraping the bowl often

4 Add the icing sugar cocoa powder vanilla and canola oil to the food processor and process until fully incorporated scraping bowl of processor as needed (about 2 minutes)

Hazelnut Banana WafflesMakes 6

frac12 cup (80 g) all purpose flour1 tsp baking powderfrac12 tsp baking sodaPinch sea salt1 Tbs (15 g) icing sugar1 Tbs (10 g) ground hazelnuts6 grates whole nutmeg1 tsp ground cinnamonfrac12 cup (125 mL) buttermilk1 egg yolk2 Tbs (30 g) butter meltedfrac12 small banana peeled and mashed1 egg white

1 Sift together all dry ingredients (except the ground hazelnuts) in a medium bowl Add the ground hazelnuts and combine

2 Mash the half banana in a small bowl with a fork Add the egg buttermilk and melted butter

3 Whisk the egg white to stiff peaks

4 Whisk the wet ingredients into the dry and fold the egg white into the mixture

5 Follow the directions for your waffle pan to cook waffles for around 5 minutes or until cooked through

Note Remember to bring the waffle pan up to temperature in between each batch of waffles

Hazelnut Banana Waffles with Nutella

30

Citrus Beer Friendsby DAVID NUTTALL

This is when the taste andor aroma of a beer can remind the drinker of anything from an orange drink or lemonade to grapefruit soda There are several ways to achieve this character and these beers are becoming more and more popular every day

Hops provide the bitterness in beer and out of the literally hundreds of varieties a few impart citrus notes into the aroma and flavour Cascade and Citra are examples of two of the most popular hops used in several styles of beer most notably the American IPA or India Pale Ale Cascade hops have been around for over 40 years and it is the single most popular hop used by the American craft brewing industry It provides a floralspicy character often reminiscent of grapefruit

Citrarsquos name leaves no guessing as to its attributes A relative newcomer this cross breed of UK German and US hop varieties has been around for less than a decade but it is already an extremely popular hop for imparting

One of the great things about beer is its diversity It can come in a myriad of colours and also a wide variety of flavours citrus being one of the most distinct

Dave Nuttall has been in the liquor and event business forever He is a qualified beer judge and ownerpresident of Epicurean Calgary at epicureancalgarycom for ten years

citrus and tropical fruit characteristics to a beer

It has proven very versatile and appears in several beer styles from session ales to IPAs It has also become a favourite hop to use for dry-hopping (adding hops late into the boil) due to the exceptional aromas it produces For even more flavour and aroma craft brewers now commonly enhance these already citrusy IPAs with actual zest peel or juice from citrus fruits to create an IPAFruit Beer hybrid which sells especially well in summer months

Then there is the yeast and many varieties of yeast can produce citrusy esters The unfiltered hefeweizens brewed on both sides of the Atlantic quite often have a lemony flavour Sour beers also showcase the yeast often cultured from Belgian strains

These beers are tart and produce a gamut of flavours many with citrus qualities and some have added fruit - the easiest and most obvious way to create a citrusy beer The Belgians also add different kinds of oranges with spice additions to their wheat ales to create wit beers now emulated all over the world with different citrus (and other) fruits involved in the recipe We also canrsquot forget the radlers which are simply a lager beer mixed with 40-60 fruit juice - often grapefruit or lemonade

Whether itrsquos added fruit the yeast the hops or a combination of all of them citrusy beers are commonplace now Thanks to new hops like Citra and the increasing popularity of wits and sours we can expect this trend to continue

Here are a few local beers with hints of citrus All are also available on tap

Beer comes in a myriad of colours and flavours citrus being one of the

most distinct

Ribstone Creek Great White CombineThis tiny Edgerton Alberta brewery has been knocking it out of the park lately Named after the ubiquitous Alberta summer hailstorm the use of Belgian yeast sweet orange peel and coriander give this beer an orange flavour in the beginning When the four different hop additions kick in it changes more to a sweet lemony flavour This White IPA has a very tropical feel that makes you forget it was made in northern Alberta CSPC +774162 $16 6-pack cans

Wild Rose Cowbell Sour ales are the new Belle of the Ball at craft breweries Often using imported Belgian yeast strains they are tart tangy and wellhellip sour Calgaryrsquos Wild Rose has taken this flavour profile and added kaffir lime leaves This makes the beer more like a refreshing limeade and is less bitter than many of its other sour counterparts CSPC +778093 $17 6-pack bottles

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TICKETS AVAILABLE AT ALBERTABEERFESTIVALSCOM

MAY 6-7 2016FRIDAY3-10 PM BEER GEEK VIP4-10 PM GENERAL ADMISSION

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Citradelic Single Hop IPA Big Rock BreweryWith breweries in two (soon to be three) provinces Big Rock now has multiple locations to develop new beers This is the first one from their Vancouver brewery and is full of lemongrapefruit flavours and tropical aromas This beer showcases the Citra hop fooling one to think that citrus has been added when itrsquos all thanks to the hop CSPC +778593 $15 6-pack bottles

Alley Kat Main SqueezeWhat started out as a summer seasonal has now become a mainstay of this Edmonton brewery A North American style wheat ale with a 50 wheat and 50 barley mix it has added grapefruit juice but tastes more along the lines of pink grapefruit rather than its more bitter cousin CSPC +733630 $17 6-pack bottles

32

story by RENEE KOHLMAN

Cheesecake is one of those classic desserts that almost everyone loves unless of course you have a dairy allergy then yoursquoll stay far far away from it While it may seem too complicated to make at home I assure you that itrsquos not

Spice it up cheesecake

Sure there are a few steps involved but the key thing to remember is to have your eggs and cream cheese at room temperature For the best crack-free cheesecake itrsquos best to bake it in a water bath It yields a light creamy texture and is well worth the effort Cheesecake always tastes better the next day so bake it the day before you want to serve it Now that wersquove got the basics down itrsquos time to have a little fun with the crust filling and toppings

The Base

The classic graham cracker crust is fine but every now and again itrsquos great to switch things up Try

ndash Grinding up ginger cookies They work especially well for a pumpkin cheesecake

ndash Chocolate cookie crumbs are fantastic for caramel peanut butter and raspberry cheesecakes

ndash Add finely chopped nuts oats or seeds to the cookie crumbs for added texture and taste

The Middle

Therersquos something to be said for a straight up vanilla or chocolate cheesecake but with some fun add-ins they could take your cheesecake to the next level of deliciousness Try

ndash Swirling tahini dulce de leche salted caramel or chocolate fudge sauce into a creamy vanilla filling

ndash Mix in chopped chocolate peanut butter cups to a chocolate filling

ndash Drop fresh berries (raspberries blueberries blackberries) on top of a vanilla filling

ndash Stir in chopped candied ginger dried cherries or cranberries chopped toasted nuts to the filling

ndash Swap some of the cream cheese with ricotta mascarpone cheese or even strained cottage cheese

ndash You can never go wrong with lemon zest in a vanilla cheesecake

Have a little fun with the crust filling

and toppings

33

Apple Crumble CheesecakeMakes about 12-14 servings Total cook and prep time 3 hours (plus overnight chilling)

I love apple crisp and I love cheesecake This recipe is a fine marriage of both and makes a more than acceptable breakfast The base is a crumble of oats and flour the middle is classic cheesecake and itrsquos topped with cinnamon apples and a buttery oat streusel

Crust 2 cups large flake oats1 cup all purpose flour cup packed brown sugarfrac34 cup butter meltedfrac12 tsp salt

Cheesecake Layer3 - 225 g packages cream cheese at room temperature cup granulated sugar1 tsp (5 mL) vanilla3 large eggs at room temperature cup (80 mL) whipping cream

Apple Layer2 apples peeled cored and sliced about 3-4 mm thick1 tsp ground cinnamonfrac12 tsp salt

Streusel Layer1 cup large flake oatsfrac12 cup all-purpose flourfrac12 cup brown sugarfrac12 cup butter softened1 tsp ground cinnamon

Preheat the oven to 375ordm F

1 Butter the bottom and sides of a 9-inch springform pan with sides that are at least 7 cm high Wrap the bottom of the pan in aluminum foil so it comes at least halfway up the sides

2 Combine the crust ingredients in a large bowl Press the crust evenly into the pan and place on a baking sheet Bake for 10 minutes Remove from oven and let it cool on a wire rack

3 Reduce heat to 325ordm F Put a kettle of water on to boil Have a large roasting pan close by

4 Using a stand mixer with a paddle attachment beat the cream cheese at medium speed for 4 minutes scraping down the sides once or twice until it is soft and creamy With the mixer still running add the sugar and beat for another 4 minutes scraping down the sides of the bowl at least twice Beat in the vanilla Add the eggs one at a time beating for 1 minute after each addition and scraping the bowl Reduce speed to low and add the whipping cream

5 Toss the sliced apples with the cinnamon and salt in a small bowl Combine all of the streusel ingredients in a medium bowl and mix well

6 Place the springform pan in the roasting pan Give the cheesecake batter a good stir and pour it on top of the crust Arrange the apples on top and sprinkle the streusel on top of the apples

7 Place in the oven on the middle rack and pour the hot water into the roasting pan so it comes halfway up the sides of the springform pan

8 Bake the cheesecake for 1frac12 hours Turn off the heat prop open the oven door and let the cheesecake hang inside for another hour

9 Carefully remove from the oven and take out the cheesecake from the hot water bath Remove the foil and let the cheesecake come to room temperature on a wire rack Cover the top lightly and refrigerate for at least 4 hours but overnight is best The next day remove the sides of the pan and serve the cake

Renee is a food writer and pastry chef living in beautiful Saskatoon Saskatchewan Her columns appear in The Saskatoon StarPhoenix and her desserts can be enjoyed at Riverside Country Club Also check out her blog wwwsweetsugarbeancom

The Toppings

Cheesecake with no fun toppings is like a salad with no dressing it just doesnrsquot reach its full flavour potential Try

ndash Salted caramel roasted strawberry sauce or warm chocolate sauce

ndash A rhubarbcardamom compote is divine on top of vanilla cheesecake kissed with a bit of lemon zest Cherry compote is divine with chocolate cheesecake

ndash Have a favourite jam Melt it down with a tiny bit of water and drizzle it on top of your favourite cheesecake

ndash Candied nuts and citrus rind chocolate shavings even crumbled cookies are a fun way to add texture to the cheesecake

ndash Never underestimate the power of fresh seasonal berries and a well-made cheesecakeMacerate them in a little sugar and minced mint or basil and they make a lovely topping Donrsquot forget the whipped cream

34

Think about that for a moment and let that sink in like a cherry in your drink

So how old is ice in bars Well thatrsquos a whole story on its own however the Old Fashioned has been talked about in one form or another since the beginning of the 19th Century The first appearance of this classic cocktail was in the Balance and Columbian Repository newspaper in 1806 as such ldquoA stimulating liquor composed of spirits of any kind sugar water and bittersrdquo

The Old FashionedAn Iconic Drink That Has Stood The Test Of Time

by BRICE PERESSINI

Sohelliphow old is the Old Fashioned The Old Fashioned is as old as ice in bars

When you follow these instructions and put this finely-crafted cocktail into your hand swirl around the ice gaze through the caramel-coloured liquid in the glass and contemplate all that has gone into it you can rest assured you are holding a drink that has delighted taste buds for generations The Old Fashioned however has not always been held in high regard There was a time not too long ago where this fine concoction was an unbalanced fruity watered-down pale imitation of itself More recently

there has been a renaissance involved with this invigorating intoxicant and you can and should expect a proper cocktail when it is ordered at a fine establishment

When this drink is properly prepared it should be in perfect balance (as any proper drink should be) The sweetness of the sugar should not cover the flavour of the bourbon and the bitters should add to not overpower the flavour of the whiskey When the Old Fashioned is well made it is as close to cocktail perfection as a sophisticated patron could expect

Befriend a bespoke barkeep at an upstanding establishment and you will be in trusted hands If you find yourself at home and wanting for a nightcap look no further than the Old Fashioned

Enjoy friends

Old Fashioned Recipe

2 oz Buffalo Trace Bourbon (or your personal favourite)4 dashes Angostura Aromatic Bitters1 raw sugar cube

Muddle the sugar and bitters together with a touch of warm water in a rocks glass Add the bourbon then add ice Stir and garnish with an orange peel and cherry (optional)

Brice is a competition cocktail bartender who plies his trade behind the wood at Chefbar Whisk(e)y is his poison Neat

35

Shoulder Season Wines

by JACLYN ADOMEIT

Wines For Cool Weather

Refreshing white wines match with sunny patios and hot days while bold tannic red wines earn their keep by a fireplace on a winter night Common sense But what about the shoulder season What if yoursquore eating sea bass on a rainy spring day Or sipping wine on a patio during an uncommonly warm April afternoon

Photograph courtesy Tom Firth

36

Wine not only pairs with food but with temperatures and seasons A bright sauvignon blanc can taste flat and acidic on a cold night at no fault of the wine or the drinker Some white wines are other-worldly at the vineyard tasting room in the summer but fall flat when you pull them out for dinner guests in the winter

The change in taste is likely due to a number of factors Anatomically it is your sinus cavities creating the change Higher atmospheric pressures allow your nose to pick out subtle aromas while lower pressures bring out a winersquos acidity and harsh tannins CO2 degasses from liquid at low pressure leaving wines dull and flat too

Serving temperature can greatly affect a winersquos aromatics white wines chilled to near-freezing have dull aromas (Tip allow the bottle a half hour on the counter before popping the cork This will allow the aromatics to warm up enhancing the flavour)

Lastly your own palate will be partial to different flavours depending on sun snow wind and sleet but as a rule of thumb higher alcohol white wines (approximately 13 percent or more) will warm the soul and pair best with cooler weather

Here are some wine selections to go for when it is not too hot and not too cold so you can choose a pairing thatrsquos just right

Fiano

Yoursquoll notice that many of the best white wines for cold weather are grown in hot places Hot climates mean a longer growing season more sugar which leads to higher alcohol and often more robust and tropical flavours All of this is true for fiano - seldom grown outside of Campania in southern Italy Fiano produces age-worthy wines which are rich nutty and delicious

Feudi Di San Gregorio 2014 Campania Fiano di Avellino Italy A beautiful floral bouquet with candied lemon followed by honey-coated hazelnuts on the palate Worth cellaring for a few seasons The perfect dance partner for poultry CSPC +708589 $33

Viognier

Viognier is a white varietal that is best consumed at slightly higher temperatures A chilly glass of viognier will leave you with acid maybe oak and not much else Allow it to warm and you may experience peach pear and toasted almond

Traditionally grown in the warm south of France viognier is often a higher alcohol white wine with rich tropical flavours The heat of the alcohol with tropical flavours and lower acid makes viognier the perfect wine to sip while watching a late spring snowfall

Paul Mas 2014 Languedoc-Roussillon Viognier France Brimming with apricot almond lemon and ripe peach Contains hints of warming oak Pair with something savoury baked brie or spinach-filled puff pastry CSPC + 740978 $17

Dry Roseacute

There is so much more to be had from roseacute than white zinfandel And no itrsquos not just a mix of red and white wine The best roseacute is made from red skinned grapes that only sit on their skins for up to a day and a half to borrow colour and flavour then are fermented and processed

Refined examples of roseacute wines are often dry and have deep aromas of red fruits mild tannins and are savoury instead of sweet The French and Spanish craft great examples of dry roseacutes that are either a single varietal or a blend of grapes such as mourvegravedre grenache syrah or tempranillo

Muga Roseacute 2014 Rioja Grenache Viura and Tempranillo Spain A tamed Rioja Orange blossom woven together with strawberry and a palate of cherry and savoury soft cheese Ideal for charcuterie CSPC + 710261 $16

Orange Wine

Never heard of orange wine A commercial demand for natural wines has fostered a resurgence in ancient wine making practices While roseacute wines are reds that have been produced using white wine making practices orange wines are created from white grapes submitted to maceration and allowed to sit on the skins before fermentation the same practice employed in red winemaking

Unlike any white you have tasted orange wines are full-bodied have mild tannins and deep flavours - the characteristics that allow red wines to bring warmth to cool nights A must try for any wine buff

Allow the bottle a half hour on the counter

before popping the cork

The Bicicleta wines are characterized by their fruity expression and for offering more than

the traditional strains a clear example of this range`s innovation style and creativity

Cono Sur Vineyards amp Winery ConoSurVineyards ConoSurWinesconosurcom

The brewhouse at Wild Rose

Jaclynrsquos first passion was winemaking Shersquos worked in vineyards cellars and restaurants Currently she is a writer who daylights as an environmental engineer She believes that a good life like a good wine is not complete without balance

Nichol 2013 Naramata Pinot Gris Canada A Canadian example of orange wine with backbone Flavours of caramel apple roast nuts orange rind and peach CSPC +504159 $31

Oaked chardonnay

In and out with popular palates oak and chardonnay have been partners for a long time Oak paired with chardonnay can bring out butter richness toasted vanilla tree fruit and in the best examples shimmering minerality That is because oak aging is often accompanied by a malolactic fermentation process that smooths out rigid acids into lactic acid - the acid found in milk

Chardonnay is a grape of many talents and encounters a great diversity of production styles It is oaked examples that pair best with pensive rainy days They are full-bodied warming and complex

Wente Morning Fog 2014 Livermore Valley (California) Chardonnay USA Half oak-aged and malolactic-fermented half crisp and fresh this chardonnay brings together green apple vanilla and toasted oak A friend to cream sauce and roast chicken CSPC +175430 $18

In a province of mutable weather let your wine choices be as varied as the ever changing winds Cheers and herersquos to refined full-bodied cool-weather wines

38

Once yoursquore done with your magazine cover shoot like we did this month or prepping for dinner and have all of those odds and ends just sitting on the cutting board - you know carrot ends onion skins tips of celery stalks you get the point - donrsquot toss lsquoem

Instead place them into a large ziploc bag and straight into the freezer After a couple of weeks yoursquoll likely have four full freezer bags of vegetable bits ready to be turned into broth and herersquos how you do it

Making a big batch of vegetable broth doesnrsquot always mean a trip to the grocery store All you need to do is save those scraps This is a handy trick I learned years ago courtesy of Bon Appetit

No-Waste Vegetable Broth

by DAN CLAPSON

Odds And Ends BrothYields 8 cups (2 L)

12 cups (3 L) water4 full ziploc bags of vegetable trimmings1 yellow onion quartered4 cloves garlicAromatics of choice (I usually toss a couple of rosemary and thyme sprigs in there)To taste Salt and pepper

1 Place all ingredients in a large pot and bring to a boil on medium-high heat

2 Reduce to medium heat and let simmer uncovered for 1frac12 hours

3 Strain season to taste with salt and pepper and use as desired

Full circlePizza amp Oyster Bar

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9 pm - close Sunday-thursday 11 pm - close friday amp saturday

40

Salentein 2012 Reserve Chardonnay Uco Valley Argentina

Very very enjoyable chardonnay blowing me away with complexity varietal character and fine balance between oak lees and fruit Toffee baked apple tangerine and a little almond on the nose lead into silkily textured wine in the mouth Top shelf chardonnay that might be great with lobster tails mussels or poultry Around $20 CSPC +779479

Rutini 2013 Cabernet Malbec Mendoza Argentina

An exceptionally well put together blend - if you want rich berry fruits lots of body but maybe not tons of varietal characters from the individual components Lifted and bright fruits make for a very enjoyable glass Simply perfect for your next barbecue a roast or just chilling out with friends and family $26-30 CSPC +776822

Vinecol 2014 Organic Malbec Mendoza Argentina Fair Trade organic and vegan along with a good price is it still good Piles of fresh fruits (think smashed raspberries) with plenty of spice and soft herb-leaf aromas There are plenty of malbec flavours on the palate too Good for any day of the week with just a little tension between fruit tannin and acid it might be best with pub style burgers pulled pork or sausages About $16 CSPC +755296

Argentina is so much more than malbec While such a noble grape has found its best home in the high altitude vineyards of Argentina there is a lot going on with other grapes as well

Making The Case For Argentina

by TOM FIRTH

This massive country nestled up against the Andes mountains has a range of growing conditions suited to a number of grapes From Salta in the north to Patagonia in the south plenty of interesting wines are available here - many reasonably priced and of excellent quality So yes there are some

malbecs on these pages but please do try some of the other grapes and blends coming from Argentina too

Be sure to crack open a bottle of malbec on ldquoWorld Malbec Dayrdquo April 17 - who knows it might be nice enough to barbecue too

Photograph courtesy Tom Firth

41

Manos Negras 2011 Stone Soil Select Mendoza Argentina Quite new to the market this is a pretty enjoyable version of Argentinarsquos flagship grape Loads of blue fruit and raspberries with spices galore and a little compost Rich flavours lead to a lengthy spicy finish Yes please Bring to a barbecue if you can $21 CSPC +630541

Zuccardi 2012 Zeta Mendoza Argentina

A malbec-cabernet sauvignon blend that is also a blend of two different Mendoza appellations La Consulta and Gualtallary Deep and abundant fruit aromas with liquorice root and a touch of blueberry preserves Excellent balance of flavours on the palate too with the right structure and tannin for aging if desired Enjoy with a prime rib or even meaty pasta dishes or game $50-52 CSPC +740270

Zuccardi 2012 ldquoEmmardquo Bonarda Mendoza Argentina

In my humble opinion one of the finest bonardas coming out of Argentina Notes of coffee bean and espresso complement cherry and blackberry fruits with healthy balanced tannins to stand up to the tart fruits Delicious for sure enjoy at your next barbecue $40 CSPC +758407

Luigi Bosca 2011 Cabernet-Malbec Mendoza Argentina

A wonderfully earthy and savoury blend with plenty of tobacco spice leather and yes lots of fruit too The earthy flavours work well with the big dark chocolate flavours and weighty tannins Drink now or through 2020 or so - with a steak naturally $22-24 CSPC +766010

Trivento 2013 Golden Reserve Malbec Lujan de Cuyo Argentina While there is a trend to see a lot of premium malbecs move away from oak presence this one is a bold smooth and delicious example that is seeing about a year of oak All those berry fruits plums and herb notes malbec is known for along with the smoothness that only oak brings Kick back relax maybe cook up some steaks - enjoy About $24 CSPC +711402

Trivento 2014 Malbec Reserve Mendoza Argentina Nearly unbeatable for good malbec at a great price itrsquos rich and chocolatey on the nose with big fruits and oak tones too Mild garrigue notes or dried herb flavours with plenty of fruit and tannins - still showing a fine sense of balance Enjoy with beef $14 CSPC +730714

Luigi Bosca 2011 De Sangre Mendoza Argentina A blend of cabernet sauvignon merlot and syrah that manages to pull out the best of each varietal Earthy and slightly smoky with good fruits and plenty of versatility Tannins are well-placed against the fruits with a long smooth finish Irsquove been a fan of this wine year after year Good to keep a couple on hand in the cellar About $29 CSPC +745106

Salentein 2012 Numina Gran Corte Uco Valley Argentina A malbec-dominated Bordeaux blend this stunner is all about ripe fruits cedar pepper cherries and plum with a little tealeaf and the right amount of tannins Very very well balanced and like any great wine think about some food to go with it Beef tenderloin slow cooked meats or maybe at your next asadohellip About $40 CSPC +764706

Colonia Las Liebres 2013 Bonarda Mendoza Argentina Bear with me here - a fine bonarda with plenty of earthy smoky aromas leading to rubber charred cherries and cocoa Some pretty prominent tannins to be found as well but wow does it all come together A wine that just begs for duck with cranberries or maybe some kebabshellip$20 CSPC +773381

42

Open That Bottleby LINDA GARSON photography by INGRID KUENZEL

ldquoIf you work in a place and yoursquore miserable I donrsquot know if there is a dollar amount that can be attached to that The work that yoursquore doing has to be rewarding and challengingrdquo says Karen KhoGrowing up in Niagara Falls in a Philippino SpanishChinese family Kho was surrounded by food and drinks with an open door policy that has had a huge influence on the person she is today - an

entertainer who likes to make people feel welcome ldquoMy parents wanted me to be a lawyer there was definitely an encouragement to use my voice for goodrdquo she explains ldquoAnd I still think I help people but in a different way a very social wayrdquo

Graduating Western University with a political science degree in 2000 Kho spent a year travelling and living in Australia before taking a leap of faith and moving to Calgary Here she studied wine with the International Sommeliers Guild and WSET but says her real education was a job she adored working in the wine trade at BIN 905 in tandem with running wine programs for CRMR restaurants It was only when the opportunity came to create the wine program at Vin Room six years later that Kho leapt at the challenge of a new idea for the city and spent four happy years there

Eventually she and her partner decided to stretch their wings and went to Vancouver where Kho embarked on a six-month culinary course at the Pacific Institute of Culinary Arts ticking off another box on her bucket list ldquoI wanted a greater understanding of technique in the kitchen and I wanted an understanding of what service on a very basic level would look like if I ever owned my own place and ever had to be the person who filled inrdquo she says ldquoI feel if I was ever in a place that needed someone to chop onions Irsquom your womanrdquo she laughs

A year later the pair came back with the idea of eventually opening their own business in Calgary ldquoThe support we get from this community is heartfelt and this is a city of opportunity People with the right concept are seeing a lot of great success itrsquos still our game planrdquo she says Meanwhile Kho applied only to Teatro where she is now Group Service Director

ldquoI wanted to work at a place that had a challenging wine program and had a level of service with high expectations and where professional service teams

applyrdquo she says ldquoItrsquos pretty romantic to work for a company that has been built on a foundation of service Successful businesses in the restaurant industry get the grand picture which is the moments that yoursquore creating for people and I like to be a part of thatrdquo she adds

So what bottle is Kho saving for a special occasion

Paying homage to her time at BIN 905 Kho explains ldquoI have a bottle of 1996 Chateau Mouton Rothschild which was given to me with some very kind words on my last day at BIN Irsquove always just appreciated my time there it was where I learned the vernacular of wine and itrsquos my first job where I really saw the benefits of serving people with intentionrdquo She continues ldquoI always see it thankfully as the stepping-stone to a broader wine profession and eventually to the position that I have now It was given to me by very close friends that Irsquom still friends with to this dayrdquo

And when is she planning to open the wine

ldquoWhen (partner) Dave and I open our own restaurantrdquo Kho says This isnrsquot something that something that will happen tomorrow but fortunately the wine will last until theyrsquore ready

Charcoal-grilled prime cutsHand-muddled caipirinhas50+ salad bar optionsThree distinct private rooms

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Culinaire April 2016indd 2 2016-03-04 501 PM

INTRODUCING

A Farmerrsquos Wine

Every great wine tells a storyThis one starts with a farmer

10 Foot Henryrsquos back where he belongs

- on the ground floor of the Eagle Block where he spent 19 years upstairs in the Night Gallery 10 Foot Henry is the brainchild of Aja Lapointe and Steve Smee lately of Ox amp Angela and Una and a welcome addition to Victoria Park Veggies are the star here with meat as the supporting act theyrsquore serving up casual and creative lsquoNew North Americanrsquo comfort-food dishes - the way the couple eat at home Grab a friend and share a few plates of mash with goat yogurt ver jus and a fried egg - a sublime combination or nibble some mushroom and kale tempura with two dipping sauces or fresh and comforting roasted carrots and avocado with pistachio gremolata Bread is by Sidewalk Citizen and pasta is from Mercato and all desserts are made in house Wash it down with wine from the eclectic list or one of five organic and Fair Trade coffees from Calgaryrsquos original roaster ndash The Roasterie or one of six loose-leaf teas from the Naked Leaf See you there

Eagle Block

8

Book Review

Karen Miller is a lawyer by trade giving her a knack for picking apart a cookbook She has taught many styles of cooking classes and was part of the Calgary Dishing girls

Lick Your Plateby Julie Albert and Lisa GnatAppetite by Random House 2016 $32

by KAREN MILLER

The Bite Me Bite Me Too sisters are back this time thankfully with a little less gimmick Their cooking was always good and their passion for sharing always evident but it seems they have become more confident in their cooking

Lick Your Plate is a cookbook a lot of us will want on our kitchen shelf a compilation of recognizable recipes for family meals and entertaining alike The sisters have still managed to convey their effervescent style but the focus is on easy recipes anyone can do These girls are happy in the kitchen

It would be hard not to find some old favourites or a style of cuisine you want to try The recipes are not ldquoauthenticrdquo

but they work - they are quick and will satisfy your cravings Very few recipes have preparation times in excess of 15 minutes and the ingredients are easily found in our pantry They incorporate many styles from fast stir fries to slow cooker meals healthy grains a full range of vegetables dishes (yes including

Brussels sprouts and kale) and tempting desserts (try the Golden Apple Crisp with Salted Caramel Sauce on p 275)

The sisters have made an absolutely respectable version of a traditional Moroccan soup (Moroccan Chickpea amp Lemon Couscous Soup p 36) and who would not want to try their version of sticky buns (Luscious Lemon Sticky Buns p 243)

The cookbook still has a good sense of humour with catchy chapter titles and scattered quotes which will bring a smile to your face and do what they are intended to do - take the pressure off Enjoying the cooking process is what this cookbook is about making it easy and good enough to lick your plate

C u l i n a i r e rsquo s 2 n d A n n u a l T r e a s u r e H u n t i s S a t u r d a y A p r i l 9 t h

You may see yourself on television too this year mdash definitely another day to remember

culinairemag CulinaireMagazine culinairemag culinairemagazineca

Wersquore beyond excited for another amazing day of foodies in Calgary racing round the city to find out what treats await at over 30 destinations ndash the vast majority of which are new for 2016

Everyone went home a winner at our first annual Culinaire Treasure Hunt last year ndash and some were multiple winners We were completely sold out and it was so popular that we were trending on Twitter

Trivia questions about the participating restaurants markets and stores revealed the answers for where to dash off to receive your treat get your passport stamped and probably come away with a little culinary gift too

And there are fabulous prizes for the people who visit the most locations wear the best costumes have the funniest team names tweet the funniest photoshellip and lots lots more

This year is going to be an even more fun and rewarding day - we hope you and a partner have signed up as a team of two and registered to join us or signed up solo

Visit culinairemagazinecacontests follow us on Twitter culinairemag for the latest details and like us on facebook at facebookcomCulinaireMagazine to keep up with the news

DISCOVERCALIFORNIA WINES

ThIS IS A FuNDRAISER bENEFITINg CALgARy OpERA

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TuESDAy ApRIL 26 2016700 pm ndash 930 pm pALOmINO ROOm bmO CENTRE AT STAmpEDE pARk

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FESTIVAL DES VINS

WINE FAIR

QuEbEacuteC CITy mONTREacuteAL OTTAWA TORONTO VANCOuVER CALgARy EDmONTON hALIFAX

The largest tasting tour of California wines in CanadaAlso includes a silent auction of wines not available in Canada

In todayrsquos busy world you may not get a chance to pick up

every issue of Culinaire To ensure

your copy go to culinairemagazineca to have the next ten issues delivered right

to your door

Order today mdash 10 issues for $39+gst

We Deliver

14 Ways to Spice Up Grilled Cheese | Beyond YYC Maui | Sunday Suppers

C A L G A R Y F O O D amp D R I N K R E C I P E S V O L U M E 4 N O 8 J A N U A R Y F E B R U A R Y 2 0 1 6

FOOD TRENDS FOR 2016

20+ AWARD-WINNING

TOP VALUE WINES

Beyond YYC Canmore amp Banff | Grab-and-Go | Absinthe The Green Fairy

C A L G A R Y F O O D amp D R I N K R E C I P E S V O L U M E 4 N O 9 M A R C H 2 0 1 6

RAISE A GLASS

TO WOMEN BEHIND THE BAR

AMAZING COCKTAILS TO MAKE AT HOME

For Foodies amp Beverage Lovers

10

A sure-fire favourite dish at Una Pizza + Wine Kale Caesar Salad is much requested It has all the elements of a perfect salad crunchy prosciutto and breadcrumbs and chewy kale leaves and egg for texture with grated cheese and a creamy plate-licking dressing to pull it all together Many thanks to Una Executive Chef Jen Pena for sharing it with us

Unarsquos Kale Caesar SaladServes 4

Salad2 Tbs (30 mL) olive oil plus more if needed4 thin slices prosciutto juliennedfrac12 cup panko breadcrumbsMaldon salt and black pepper2 bunches kale leaves only julienned1 cup grated Pecorino cheese2 hard boiled eggs peeled and halved (optional)

Caesar Dressing1 clove garlic4 anchovy fillets1 Tbs (15 mL) Dijon mustardZest and juice of 1 lemonfrac12 cup (120 mL) olive oil

1 Using a fork crush garlic and anchovies against the inside of a large bowl Add mustard lemon juice zest and olive oil and whisk until well emulsified Pour the dressing into a glass jar and set aside

2 Line a plate with paper towels Heat olive oil in a medium frying pan on high Add prosciutto and pan-fry until crispy about 5 minutes Transfer to the paper towel-lined plate and set aside

3 Reduce the heat to low and add panko crumbs to the pan adding a little oil if required Toast until golden about 2 minutes Scrape the panko into a small bowl season to taste with salt and set aside

4 Place kale in a large bowl pour in the dressing and toss well Season with salt and black pepper Transfer to a serving

bowl and top with grated Pecorino cheese toasted panko and crispy prosciutto Serve with the boiled eggs if desired

If therersquos a dish in a restaurant that yoursquod love to know how to make let us know at culinairemagazinecacontact-us and wersquoll do our very best to track it down for you

Off The Menu

culinairemagazinecaaba sponsors

Registrations are arriving already With the success of last yearrsquos competition

2016 will be an even greater competition this year Visit culinairemagazinecaaba

to enter your wines beers and spirits for the 2016 Alberta Beverage Awards

Have You Entered Your Wine Beers And Spirits Yet

For more information contact competition director Tom Firth tomculinairemagazineca

Registration Deadline July 1 | Judging Takes Place July 18-19-20

12

Tricks Chefs Tipsstory by ROBYN MACLEAN photography by INGRID KUENZEL Knives

The most important tool in any kitchen without a doubt is a good knife As Iron Chef Masahari Morimoto would say ldquoa kitchen without a knife is not a kitchenrdquo

I couldnrsquot agree more

For professional cooks knives are practically an extension of their hands and probably better cared for But a quality knife is just as essential for home cooks If yoursquore even slightly inclined to cook at home at the very least you should own a classic 20 cm chefrsquos knife ndash the go-to knife for the brunt of daily kitchen tasks

But itrsquos certainly not the only knife you should have in your arsenal Slicing dicing filleting butchering and julienning become a whole lot easier when you use the right knife for the job and these three Calgary chefs share their favourite model and a recipe to help point you in the right direction

䈀甀礀 琀栀攀 琀漀瀀 栀愀氀昀 漀昀 愀渀礀 戀漀琀琀氀攀 漀昀 眀椀渀攀 戀攀琀眀攀攀渀 瀀洀ⴀ㘀瀀洀 愀渀搀 最攀琀 琀栀攀 戀漀琀琀漀洀 琀栀攀 昀甀渀 栀愀氀昀⤀ 昀漀爀 䘀刀䔀䔀

䘀刀

䔀䔀

䴀伀一䐀䄀夀 ⴀ 䘀刀䤀䐀䄀夀 瀀洀 ⴀ㘀瀀洀

瀀爀椀挀攀 戀漀琀琀氀攀猀 漀昀 眀椀渀攀㔀 戀漀琀琀氀攀猀 漀昀 戀攀攀爀㔀 栀椀最栀戀愀氀氀猀

䠀䄀䰀䘀 䘀刀䔀䔀 圀䤀一䔀

㔀 㔀 Ⰰ 㠀 䄀 瘀 攀 匀 圀 Ⰰ 䌀 愀 氀 最 愀 爀 礀 Ⰰ 䄀 䈀 吀 倀 䜀

Pacific Albacore Tuna CrudoServes 4

335 g Pacific albacore tuna 1 honey crisp or granny smith apple 4 cloves of garlic thinly sliced frac12 tsp ground espelette chili frac14 cup (60 mL) sunflower oil frac14 cup (60 mL) flax oil 1 Tbs lightly toasted flax seed 8 pickled string beans (keep some pickling liquid)4 slices of prosciutto 1 Tbs (1 mL) rice vinegar Pea shoots Good quality finishing salt like fleur de sel

1 Slice garlic as thinly as possible and combine with sunflower oil in a small saucepan Heat slowly and allow the garlic to fry until golden brown Remove from heat and add the ground espelette chili

2 Allow the oil to steep for 15-20 minutes at room temperature Once cool add flax oil

Chef Matthias Fong

3 Slice 8 pickled string beans thinly into rounds

4 Dice the apple into 1 cm cubes and add a splash of the pickled string bean liquid as well as rice vinegar add to the sliced string beans

5 Set up 4 plates Slice the tuna into frac34 cm thick slices and lay out 85 g per plate Using the finishing salt season the tuna to taste

6 Pull the prosciutto slices apart into bite-sized pieces and scatter them with the tuna slices

7 Drizzle 1 Tbs (15 mL) flax oil over each plate with a few slices of the fried garlic from the oil on each plate

8 Scatter the apple and string bean mixture over the slices of tuna being sure to spoon some of the pickling liquid from the bowl over the tuna slices Finish with pea shoot tips and toasted flax seed

Chef Matthias FongRiver Cafeacute

A good quality knife is made from high quality steel usually German or Japanese which will stay sharp for a long period of time and has the potential to last a lifetime

Owning a stainless steel knife versus one made from high carbon steel is also extremely beneficial in any kitchen Itrsquos easy for a knife to end up in the sink which can leave non-stainless varieties rusted and ruined

ldquoRegardless of style or brand itrsquos never safe to let knives go dull Dull knives lead to excessive force and can easily slip off the product yoursquore cuttingrdquo cautions Fong

ldquoTo properly care for a knife I recommend investing in some sharpening stone andor a ceramic honing rod which prolongs the life of your knife and requires less sharpening I also suggest signing up for a class to learn the art of sharpening or just take your knives directly to the folks at Knifewear and theyrsquoll gladly maintain for yourdquo

ldquoMy go-to knife is the Tojiro Flash 825-inch slicer Itrsquos short in length making it versatile for a variety of uses I use it for the majority of my prep work but itrsquos ideal for slicing and carving The narrow blade allows for paper thin slicing on delicate fish like tunardquo says Fong

ldquoI favour the Tojiro line of knives because they offer stainless Japanese steel thatrsquos easy to sharpen and repairrdquo

14

Chef Kai SalimaumlkiThe Block

Chef Salimaumlki is all about a great multipurpose knife ldquoI love the Masakage Kumo Petty 150 mm knife Itrsquos ideal for numerous tasks in the kitchen but I especially love it for chopping fine herbs Itrsquos lightweight and has a remarkably sharp edge that has chives bouncing from under it in perfect uniform circlesrdquo he explains

The Petty knife is ideal for smaller jobs such as slicing shallots cutting herbs and boning smaller proteins And because of its size itrsquos also a great alternative for those who feel uncomfortable wielding a larger heavier chefrsquos knife

ldquoI would recommend this knife for the home cook as it can replace many utility knives people seem to collect in drawers And of course most importantly I recommend proper love attention and care to ensure you keep this tool functioning for a very long timerdquo

You simply canrsquot do your best without your equipment at its best

Chef Jorel ZielkeBrasserie Kensington and Winebar

ldquoIrsquom a huge fan of my 10frac34-inch MAC chefrsquos knife This multipurpose knife is modeled after the standard French chefrsquos kniferdquo says Zielke

Sirloin Beef TartareServes 2

335 g AAA beef sirloin2 Tbs (30 mL) grainy mustard cup minced shallots Tbs minced gherkins2 Tbs cup finely chopped parsley Worcestershire sauce to tasteHot sauce to tasteCold pressed canola oil to taste 1 egg yolk in tact with all whites removedPinch of fresh grated horseradishSalt and pepper

1 Finely dice the sirloin removing any connective tissue or silver-skin Do not trim off the fat Pass over the meat several times with your knife

2 Mix in mustard shallots gherkins parsley Worcestershire hot sauce oil and salt and pepper

3 Note All garnish measurements are suggestions as tartares vary to personal taste Add enough oil to moisten dish but be careful not to oversaturate

4 Top tartare with raw egg yolk and freshly grated horseradish

5 Serve with anything you can pick it up with such as crostini crackers fresh bread fresh heirloom tomato or crisp lettuce

ldquoI canrsquot emphasize enough the importance of respecting your tools by keeping them clean and properly functioning to avoid safety issues You simply canrsquot do your best without your equipment at its bestrdquo

ldquoA sharp knife is key when dicing raw meat like in my recipe belowrdquo he continues ldquoKeep in mind that itrsquos not firm like an onion or a stick of celery Meat shifts and moves as you prepare it so itrsquos important to slow down and take your time when preparing a dish like tartarerdquo

Chef Jorel Zielke

Chef Kai Salimaumlki

15

Robyn is a public relations professional and occasional writer with a passion for food and beverages Despite city hopping from her home in Calgary to Anchorage AK you can still find her on Twitter robynalana

Braised Brisket with Carrot Puree and Napa Cabbage Serves 4

900 ndash 1125 g brisket5 carrots peeled and sliced 12-16 baby potatoes 1 head of Napa cabbage julienned5 parsnips peeled and sliced 2 tomatoes quartered2 yellow onions quartered1 yellow onion thinly sliced6 sprigs of thyme4 sprigs of rosemary 6 whole cloves of garlic3-4 Tbs butter1 Tbs black peppercornsCanola oil4 cups (1 L) beef stock or water1 cup (240 mL) of milkHoney to tasteSalt and pepper 1 Season brisket liberally with salt and pepper (you can braise whole or cut it into smaller chunks)

2 In a large sauteacute pan heat canola oil until it has reached its smoking point Sear the meat on all sides until golden brown and caramelized

3 Remove from pan and place in a large ovenproof baking dish covering with beef stock (or water) Add peppercorns two sprigs of rosemary 4 sprigs of thyme whole garlic tomatoes and the quartered onions

4 Cover with tin foil and braise for approximately for 3-3frac12 hours at 325ordm F or until fork tender

5 Remove from the braising juices spoon off any excess fat and strain juices into a saucepot reduce on a medium heat until a nice thick sauce has formed

6 For carrot puree add two tablespoons of butter in a heavy bottomed saucepan and sauteacute sliced onion and diced carrots together over medium heat Yoursquore not looking to brown the vegetables but rather simmer in the butter

7 After 10 minutes cover the mixture with milk add 2 sprigs of thyme and season with salt Simmer until soft and tender

8 Strain the carrots and reserve the milk throw out the thyme sprigs Place the carrots and onions in a blender and slowly add the milk until a nice puree is achieved check seasoning and thickness and adjust if necessary Set aside 9 Sauteacute julienned cabbage in a tablespoon of butter season with salt and add 2 tablespoons of water Reduce heat and cook for 5 minutes stirring frequently

ldquoI recommend proper love attention and care to ensure you keep this tool functioning for a

very long timerdquo

10 Toss sliced carrots and parsnips with honey chopped rosemary and thyme season with salt and pepper and roast in the oven for an hour at 325ordm F or until tender 11 Boil the baby potatoes in heavily salted water until fork tender

12 To serve set up 4 plates and spoon carrot puree on the bottom of the plate in a circle Arrange potatoes carrots and parsnips around the plate place Napa cabbage in the middle and place brisket on top Spoon the reduced braising liquid over the meat

16

As Nemeth chats with customers other vendors and friends who stop by her enthusiastic greetings and joyous laughter are hard to ignore mdash this is a woman who clearly likes people In fact she loves them Warm hearty and full of surprises the words used to describe Nemethrsquos personality can just as easily be used to describe her soup

The Primal Soup Co is a fairly new entity mdash the frozen containers of soup with flavours like Mango Butternut Squash Spinach Artichoke and Feta and Thai Coconut Chicken first showed up at the Market on MacLeod (then the

Going To MarketPrimal Soup Company Finds Its Homeby ELIZABETH CHORNEY-BOOTH photography by INGRID KUENZEL

If you happen to spy Margaret Nemeth at one of her Primal Soup Company booths at the Crossroads Market or the Market on MacLeod yoursquoll immediately see that the energetic atmosphere of a Farmersrsquo Market suits her

Kingsland Farmersrsquo Market) in 2011 mdash but Nemeth is not new to the food and beverage game

Long-time Calgarians may recognize the Primal name and the taste of Nemethrsquos homemade soups from the now defunct Primal Grounds Cappuccino Bar and Eatery in Killarney which Nemeth owned and ran from 1996 through to 2010

Nemeth opened that business after a career in oil and gas and the stand-alone cafeacute was a solid success for her Not only did it serve up great coffee Nemeth quickly made a name for herself with her homemade soup creations All homemade and gluten-free (due to Nemethrsquos own dietary restrictions) Primal Grounds was catering to people with gluten intolerances long before it became fashionable

ldquoWe were pioneers and it was so much funrdquo Nemeth says ldquoThere were lots of ups and downs but it was a good liferdquo

ldquoWhen yoursquore in a market you have to give people reasons to stoprdquo

Margaret Nemeth

17

Nemeth sold the cafeacute when a real estate developer made her an offer she couldnrsquot refuse but she still felt the urge to be around people and feed them So she set up shop in the markets - first the Market on MacLeod and then in January of 2015 she opened a stall in the rebranded Crossroads Market

Elizabeth Chorney-Booth is a Calgary-based writer and co-founderco-editor of RollingSpooncom and Wapawekkacom She enjoys exploring the connection between music and food through interviews with musicians and chefs

Primal Soup also sells lunch items like gourmet macaroni and cheese sandwiches and homemade pies and pastries so that market wanderers can stop by the stall and grab a full lunch while perusing the soup cooler for something to take home for a future meal

ldquoWhen yoursquore in a market you have to give people reasons to stoprdquo Nemeth says ldquoSo we offer things to go with the soup which also gives them ideas for what they can do at home Or sometimes theyrsquoll come for a sandwich and then theyrsquoll look at the soups You have to give people reasons to be in this spacerdquo

ldquoWe were pioneers and it was so much funrdquo

Whatever Nemeth is doing it seems to be working Between the two farmersrsquo markets and specialty retailers like the Market on 17th Sunnyside Market and SPUD delivery boxes Primal Soup Co sells over 1000 containers of soup every week Nemeth develops the recipes herself but has hired a full-time chef to keep up with the demand Personality and strategic stall locations in busy farmersrsquo markets alone isnrsquot enough to move that kind of volume of soup mdash while Nemeth has made smart business decisions over the course of Primalrsquos various incarnations the key to her success really lies in the product itself Everything is made from scratch without the aid of pre-bought soup bases and Nemeth uses seasonal ingredients (only 20 to 30 of her 50 soup varieties are ever available at any given time) supporting her neighbours at the markets when possible Her meat stocks are built from organic chicken bones Wintersrsquo turkey carcasses and duck bones from fellow market vendor Green Eggs and Ham to build a rich and delicious broth ldquoI layer my soupsrdquo Nemeth says ldquoI donrsquot just throw everything in the pot together And there has to be a twist in every one There has to be something

that you donrsquot expect mdash a surprise in every boxrdquo

To bring things full circle Nemeth has a new venture that just opened kitty corner to her Primal Soup stall in the Crossroads Market a beautiful and shiny new Primal Grounds coffee location With a long counter for people to sit at for as long as they like (Nemeth jokes that itrsquos the perfect place for bored spouses to sit while their partners shop the market) itrsquos an updated nod to what got Primal Soup started in the first place

And itrsquos also a testament to Nemethrsquos dedication to market life mdash the lack of control she has over her own hours and some other aspects arenrsquot perfect but the busyness the proximity to like-minded vendors and most of all the people she gets to interact with on a constant basis has put Nemeth exactly where she belongs ldquoYoursquore only as strong as the market is collectivelyrdquo she says ldquoItrsquos different than being a restaurant but I have to say itrsquos the funnest thing Irsquove ever donerdquo

ldquoThere has to be something that you donrsquot

expect mdash a surprise in every boxrdquo

18

Soup Kitchenstory and photography by DAN CLAPSON

The fresh hang-up-your-winter-jacket feeling is finally in the air ndash and that my friends is a wonderful thing Gone are the days where wersquove looked forward to spooning into a big bowl of creamy soup or sitting down to some chicken noodle soup to help shake off the winter sniffles These days Irsquom more concerned with light and bright flavours and less calorie-ridden meals

so I wonrsquot look completely undesirable in a swimsuit come June

Here are two great recipes that just happen to be vegan but are bursting with flavour

Serves 5 Total cook time 35 minutes

6 cups (15 L) vegetable broth1 cup (240 mL) white wine1 cup (240 mL) water2 Tbs (30 mL) tomato paste2 cups dry green lentils1 red onion halved and thinly sliced1 small fennel bulb halved and thinly sliced2 tsp (10 mL) maple syrup1 tsp dried oreganofrac12 tsp ground turmericfrac12 tsp chili flakesfrac12 tsp ground cinnamon1 pinch nutmeg2 cups thinly sliced red Swiss chardTo taste salt and pepper

1 Place broth wine water and tomato paste in a large pot and bring to a simmer on medium-high heat Add lentils and cook for 15 minutes

2 Add onion fennel maple syrup and spices and continue to cook for 15 minutes

Spiced Green Lentil and Chard Soup

3 Add Swiss chard and cook until leaves are tender about 2-3 minutes Season to taste with salt and pepper and serve

Dan Clapson is a freelance food writer and columnist in Calgary When hersquos not writing about Canadarsquos amazing culinary scene he is likely listening to 80s rock or 90s boy bands Follow him on twitter dansgoodside

Spinach and Cashew Soup with Poblano and Scallion Salsa

Serves 4 Total cook time 30 minutes not including cashew soak time

Soup1frac12 cups roasted cashews2 cups (500 mL) water4 cups (1 L) vegetable broth4 cups cooked spinach1 Tbs (15 mL) apple cider vinegar1 Tbs (15 mL) maple syrupfrac12 tsp cayenne peppersalt and pepper to tastecashew butter for garnish optional

1 Place cashews and water in a container cover and let sit on counter overnight

2 Combine cashews water and remaining soup ingredients in a blender and pureacutee until very smooth

3 Pour contents of blender through a fine mesh strainer into a medium pot Bring to a simmer on medium-high heat and cook for 15 minutes Season to taste with salt and pepper and keep warm on stove until ready to serve

4 Place a couple of spoonfuls of the salsa into each bowl and ladle soup around it Add a couple of dollops of cashew butter for a little extra richness

Salsa1 large poblano pepper halved and seeds removed1 bunch scallions2 Tbs (30 mL) canola oil2 Tbs fresh mint roughly chopped1 tsp (5 mL) lemon juicefrac12 tsp cane sugarfrac12 tsp chili flakessalt and pepper to taste

1 Preheat oven to 400ordm F

2 Place poblano halves and scallions on a baking sheet drizzle with oil and roast until slightly charred about 15-18 minutes

3 Remove from oven allow to cool slightly then give them a rough chop

4 Add to a bowl with remaining ingredients and toss to combine Season liberally with salt and pepper

20

Photograph courtesy California Wine Institute

Ever since Napa Valley cabernet sauvignons and chardonnays bested their more historic counterparts from Bordeaux and Burgundy in the now-famous Judgment of Paris tasting in 1976 California and its flagship region have carried the torch for the bold dense fruity lushly oaked wines that brought them worldwide fame

Forty years later this sun-drenched style of wines remains both unapologetically enjoyable and wildly popular and Napa is on the bucket list of any devoted wine tourist But as tastes and trends start to evolve away from a focus on power and concentration towards greater elegance and food-friendliness winemakers in California are again taking to the frontier gravitating towards the statersquos physical and climatic extremes to explore new boundaries of flavour and complexity Californiarsquos cooler corners

California Coolby PETER VETSCH

California is a land of frontiers dangling on the edge of the Pacific home of the Gold Rush and epicentre of the New Worldrsquos insurgence onto the global wine scene

are fast becoming its second face in the world of wine

Sonoma County north of San Francisco and just west of Napa is probably Californiarsquos second best-known region almost equally recognized for its cabernets chardonnays and zinfandels The largest subregion in the county taking up almost a third of its total area is the western Sonoma Coast too expansive at 500000 acres to have a distinct identity

However the western border of this appellation a razorrsquos edge straddling the ocean locally known as the ldquotruerdquo Sonoma Coast showcases the regionrsquos true character - extreme viticulture wet cool and always windy at elevations up to 2000 feet balanced on the San Andreas Fault with many vines growing above the fog line and constantly exposed to the throes of the Pacific Pinot noir takes on a unique expression here on low-yielding vines in the cool above the rest of Sonoma offering both remarkable purity of fruit and astonishing acidity and structure

Pinot is also predominant in the relatively new Santa Rita Hills subregion of the Santa Ynez Valley located an hour and a half northwest of Los Angeles and similarly perched right alongside the ocean The maritime influence dominates the microclimate and counteracts the California sun with fog and cool breezes to the point where this coastal spot becomes a near ideal substitute for chilly Burgundy Here the core Burgundian varietals of pinot noir and chardonnay thrive in a particularly striking edgy way

Santa Ynez is the only wine region in the western hemisphere where the arearsquos defining mountain range runs east-west instead of north-south creating a sort of maritime wind tunnel that sucks cold Pacific air eastward This leads to some of the largest diurnal (day to night) temperature shifts in North America and allows inland grapes ripening in the scorching daytime heat to recharge and maintain acidity at night This special geological feature allows a wide range of reds in Santa Ynez to be juicy but still structured bold yet balanced from cabernet and merlot to syrah and grenache

Halfway between the Sonoma Coast to the north and the Santa Rita Hills to the south along yet another coastline

California can comfortably both provide continuity

and defy stereotype

Wine Picks

Peter is a local lawyer by day and wine writer by night maintaining his own wine blog at popandpourca He is always on the lookout for the next way to experience wine and the next good bottle to try

A LITTLE SIBLING RIVALRY NEVER HURT ANYBODY

FOUR SETTINGS ONE PHILOSOPHY crmrcom338 - 17th Avenue SW

c i l a n t ro

747 Lake Bonavista Dr SE113 - 8th Avenue SW 340 - 17th Avenue SW

Sequoia Grove 2012 Cabernet Sauvignon (Napa Valley)Textbook cabernet from Naparsquos heart of Rutherford with deep black fruit mint and cedarhellip and a survivable price tag CSPC +740382 $56

Hartford Court Landrsquos Edge Vineyard Pinot Noir (Sonoma Coast)The ferocity of the Sonoma Coast somehow creates the picture of elegance in this juicy yet delicate pinot CSPC +717210 $60

Domaine de la Cote 2013 Pinot Noir (Sta Rita Hills) Seriously pushes the boundaries picked almost insanely early for low-alcohol herbal pomegranate and rhubarb acidic tension and energy CSPC +761893 $58

Alice May Crosswinds Syrah (Santa Ynez Valley) A syrahviognier Cote Rotie-style co-ferment that matches Cali ripeness with surprising verve and delicacy CSPC +761131 $28

Ridge 2013 Geyserville (Santa Cruz Mountains)This will change your expectations of zinfandel A zin-heavy field blend it combines the best of its mountain altitude and the California sun CSPC +426379 $55

just south of San Jose the wineries of the Santa Cruz Mountains prove again that those seeking to make modern moderate wines in California head both west and up The highest vineyards in Santa Cruz despite being just miles from the ocean are at 2600 feet this significant altitude and the cool Pacific climate results in chiseled wines with controlled ripeness and serious staying power

The region is both expansive and miniscule with only 1500 of its 480000 acres currently planted to grapes and its very-California plantings (cabernet chardonnay pinot noir zinfandel and merlot) all take on an Old World character and rusticity from its rugged terrain and stony mineral-laden soils Despite the challenges associated with growing grapes on a cool rock face Santa Cruz is a state leader in sustainable growing practices

The friendly sunny face of California wine is surely here to stay but Santa Cruz Santa Ynez and the Sonoma Coast are permanent proof that the state is readily capable of more than one expression With its range of climate and terrain California can comfortably both provide continuity and defy stereotype

22

En GardeA Beginnerrsquos Guide To Knives And Their Usesby ANNA BROOKS

Itrsquos difficult to imagine that sharp little number thatrsquos slicing away to the rhythm of your favourite cooking music (or to the beating of child-size fists hungry for dinner) was more often used for combat not chopping carrots

Despite King Louis XIVrsquos decree that the tips of knives be ground down to reduce violence in the mid-1600s kitchen knives still (for quite pointed reasons) make popular murder weapons

But we wonrsquot get into grisly stories of guts and gore here Whether yoursquore a chef extraordinaire or the person whose knife knowledge goes as far as cutting

vegetables with a steak knife there are some things everyone should know about knives

The first major thing we must insist upon is putting down that expensive 14-piece knife set As most knife experts can attest to three main knives can cover almost all the work that a layman cook needs to do in the kitchen

23

Three main knives can cover almost all the work that a layman cook needs

to do in the kitchen

Chefrsquos Knife Your standard knife for mincing and slicing vegetables and meat a chefrsquos knife is typically 20-25 cm long but can range all the way up to 36 cm

Luke Pickett from Knifewear is a sight to see wielding some wickedly sharp

handcrafted Japanese models but despite their carnivorous look Pickett said therersquos really nothing to fear

ldquoThere are a lot of people who are scared of really large knivesrdquo Pickett said ldquoBut having good quality kitchen equipment will make your life easierrdquo

For beginners a standard 20 cm chefrsquos knife (although Pickett said blade length is purely based on personal preference) is best to start with but a Japanese Santoku knife mdash an elegant slightly smaller version of a chefrsquos knife mdash will certainly get the job er meal done

Paring KnifeOn the other side of the knife spectrum is the pocket-sized paring knife (note carrying knives in pockets not recommended)

Regan Johnson assistant manager at The Cookbook Co said besides what the individual using a steak knife to cut everything might think the small intricate work required of a paring knife (such as peeling and trimming) should not be done on a cutting board

ldquoParing is anything you can be doing in the air mdash yoursquore not ever supposed to use a paring knife on a boardrdquo she explained

Johnson added that for someone like herself who does almost as much blade-wielding as a samurai she also recommends a utility knife

which is a hybrid of a chefrsquos knife and a paring knife

ldquoI reach for my utility knife a lotrdquo she said ldquoItrsquos got that shape of a paring knife but is longer Itrsquos just for those things in between that you donrsquot need your giant chefrsquos knife forrdquo

Bread KnifeThe last of the big three is of course a bread knife Have you ever tried to cut a loaf of bread with a straight blade Not so easy (or safe) a task

Itrsquos sometimes difficult to do but no matter the type of knife yoursquore using itrsquos important to try and slice as opposed to chopping or sawing It

is quite tempting (and often seems easier) to saw away at the crispy crust of a floured loaf of sourdough but Knifewearrsquos Pickett said sawing can

be a slippery slope to your bread knifersquos grave

ldquoIf you slice you can use the entire blade and itrsquos a lot sharper along the edgerdquo he explained ldquoItrsquos important to get a good bread knife because you canrsquot sharpen them like you can any other sort of kniferdquo

The Big Three

24

Having good quality kitchen equipment will

make your life easier

Anna Brooks is an award-winning journalist from Calgary Alberta She has worked internationally in Thailand and Africa and has been published in Metro BeatRoute Magazine and the Calgary Journal She also enjoys animal rights fantasy fiction and whiskey sours

Tips and TricksOf course you can adorn your kitchen with the countless others belonging to the knife family mdash cleavers carvers boning knives cheese knives etc mdash but if yoursquore not planning on hacking through solid bone anytime soon you probably donrsquot need to spend $200 on a meat cleaver

But there are some other knife-related implements that are important to have in your kitchen

First off a proper cutting board While plastic cutting boards are versatile and can be chucked in the dishwasher wood is really the best way to go Cutting boards are the quickest way to ruin a knife so steer clear of fancy-looking glass or granite boards mdash they are the antagonists of our story

Itrsquos also not a bad idea to have a knife honer on hand As a reminder (or for

those who had no idea what that random rod in the kitchen was used for) honers are for honing not sharpening

ldquoWith use the metal fibres in a knife edge can get bent to one side or another All yoursquore doing with honing is straightening those fibres back outrdquo Johnson from The Cookbook Co explained ldquoSharpening means yoursquore actually removing material and grinding the metal down to a finer edgerdquo

Johnson added that while you can sharpen at home she always recommends getting your knives sharpened professionally at least once a year depending on how much theyare used

Before you go back to making your lazy-day grilled cheese sandwich or that complex stew yoursquove spent hours on we just want to remind you of whatrsquos called ldquothe pinch griprdquo

Not to sound snobbish but grabbing a knife by the handle and hacking away is poor form Use your thumb and index finger to grasp the blade and then wrap your remaining fingers under the bolster of the knife Shape your other hand into a claw to protect your fingertips from accidentally getting lopped off firmly grasp the object to be cut and slice away

If this knowledge was present in the 17th century perhaps old King Louis XIV would be tipping his crown to more cooks not kitchen knife combatants

25

Times Are A Changing Unexpected Take-Outs

by LINDA GARSON and DIANA NG photography by INGRID KUENZEL

Therersquos no denying that many of our cityrsquos restaurants are feeling the effects of the current economic downturn fewer people working downtown ndash indeed fewer people working altogether and so looking to save money by eating out less means many bricks and mortar restaurants are having to get creative with ways to fully utilise their kitchens and staff

High rents exacerbate the situation so itrsquos time for Calgary restaurateurs to think outside the box and proving to be the innovative entrepreneurs that wersquore known for many are diversifying their offerings to include take-out options both raw and cooked

Catch amp The Oyster Bar launched their ldquoBuy Catchrdquo program where you can pick up fresh Ocean Wise seafood to take home and cook (complete with recipes) along with house-made clam chowder and sauces nearly two years ago There are big savings to be had over dining in with no costs for linen or staff and no expectation to tip

Here are four Calgary eateries also getting clever with take-out

programs that are not widely publicised - and may

open a few eyes

26

Centini Restaurant

Itrsquos not a cookie cutter program but the magic of Centinirsquos take-out is that you can ask the kitchen for ideas of what you should have for dinner People even text the servers for suggestions and to order Loyal customers mostly busy businessmen were asking if they catered but without the staff for such a service Centini started offering to prepare dishes for them to cook themselves

Now you can get your favourite restaurant dishes from rack of lamb with red wine demi-glace AAA Alberta beef tenderloin with Gorgonzola pan sauce and sea bass with ginger cream sauce ready to cook at home ldquoWersquore not going to open a bricks and mortar restaurant down south but our food is going thererdquo says Chevonne Centini Theyrsquore seeing pick-ups such as for people stuck at home with a new baby and even 40 people for a funeral

Boxwood

Itrsquos hard to believe that the quality of food coming from the sister restaurant to River Cafe can be had at home and we are not talking about leftovers When

People take home uncooked homemade pasta with sauce separately and even bread dough and often freeze it to cook later or pick up on a Friday evening so everything is prepared ready for Saturday dinner When buying from a restaurant yoursquore getting top quality perfectly trimmed meat everything is done for you - therersquos no shopping

around and even the parsley is chopped And as everything is custom-made all allergies are catered for too

Centini gets fish delivered once or twice every day and it may come as a surprise but with a chef garde manger that spent 15 years in Japan they have customers coming just to take out sushi

you go home to an empty fridge it feels like the only options you have are fast food or pizza Not so

Boxwoodrsquos fresh and seasonal fare is also available to take home While you wonrsquot

be able to enjoy the quaint atmosphere of the restaurant you can order anything on the menu for take out with its special offering being the whole rotisserie free-range chicken which serves two to four people for $40

Many bricks and mortar restaurants are

having to get creative with ways to fully utilise their

kitchens and staff

You will need to call a few hours ahead (the website states before 200 pm) for enough notice for the chicken but for the rest of the selection like its soups and sandwiches you can simply look up the menu online and call to place an order For a perfect night in may we suggest starting with its bison tartare then moving onto the porchetta and another main before finishing off the meal with a slice of pie

27

Gaucho

For most people the elaborate setup of Brazilian barbecue is one of its biggest attractions You may not know this and while you may not be able to take home the lively decor of Gaucho you can actually take the meal home

The spit packed tightly with freshly roasted meats the sign at the table that signals yoursquore ready for more and the roasted and caramelized pineapple that tops off the meal all contribute to the atmosphere but if all you want are the meats and sides for a hefty dinner you can certainly order the meal as a take-out

Order any of the four options (top sirloin pork loin chicken wings or mild sausage) and add three sides from the list of eight which includes a variety of salads black bean stew and rice And because you canrsquot just have one kind of meat when it comes to Brazilian barbecue you can choose additional

Safari Grill

The marinated thinly sliced BBQ short beef ribs at Safari Grill are already a must-have for those in the know but we suspect even regulars will be surprised to discover that you can pick

up uncooked ribs with your choice of seven marinades to take home and BBQ yourself

With none of the associated costs of dining in $65 buys you enough ribs for 10 people and customers actually drive

meats for $4 each Finally choose the sauce yoursquod like to accompany your meal Orders for over five people will come in a big white box and individual

orders come will in regular take-out containers For big parties do call a few hours ahead All you need to make at home is the caipirinha

from Saskatchewan to take away 10-15 lb bags of these uncooked marinated ribs Some people call and ask for them to be marinated and frozen in 5 lb bags to enjoy later as just 5-7 minutes each side on a high flame has the raw ribs ready to eat

And itrsquos not only ribs that people BBQ at home Mishkaki are skewers of marinated chicken beef and prawns and for as little as $3 each you can have a very inexpensive BBQ feast Marinated raw lamb chops are also available or ask for Samaki - a marinated whole tilapia that comes with a basting sauce to brush on You can even get uncooked samosas to cook in your oven at home

All Safari Grillrsquos regular menu can be ordered for take-out but there is no published price list for uncooked dishes so people call to order and ask - but when yoursquore picking up look out for the new jars of house-made mango and lemon pickles

28

Step By Step Go Nuts With Homemade Nutella And Waffles story and photography by NATALIE FINDLAY

There are many nutritional benefits packed into these small filberts They are rich in dietary fibre packed with folate an excellent source of vitamin E and contain mono-unsaturated fatty acids that

can help lower bad cholesterol and raise good cholesterol By making your own Nutella at home you can control the amount of sugar that is added making this delicious spread basicallyhellip a health food

Hazelnuts have a tried and true following for taking the lead role in the chocolate spread Nutella This long-standing love affair has lasted simply because they add a distinct but subtle flavour to the chocolate Truly a match that is better together than apart

These delicious and super-easy waffles make a great base for your homemade Nutella With the addition of ground hazelnuts to the batter you can deepen the hazelnut flavour and pack in more health benefits

Waffles with raspberries and white chocolate spread

29

Natalie is a freelance writer photographer and pastry chef A graduate of Cordon Bleursquos pastry program she manages her own business too to create custom-made cakes

Using the same waffle recipe from above and switching out the mashed banana and adding frac12 a medium orange ndash juice and zest ndash to the batter you have a delicious orange waffle that will highlight the white chocolate hazelnut spread recipe below

Homemade White Chocolate Hazelnut Spread Makes 1frac12 cups

1frac12 cups (200 g) whole hazelnutsfrac12 cup (70 g) icing sugar2 Tbs (30 mL) canola oil1 tsp (5 mL) vanilla extract1 cup (250g) white chocolate

Follow directions for Homemade Nutella and add the melted white chocolate at the end Pulse to combine

Macerated Raspberries with Orange Serves 6

250 g fresh raspberriesfrac12 medium orange zest and juice1 Tbs icing sugarfrac12 tsp vanilla extract

Add all ingredients into a medium bowl and stir to combine Let sit for about 1 hour

Serve your warm waffles topped with your white chocolate homemade hazelnut spread macerated berries and a dollop of whipped cream or ice cream

Note Homemade Nutella has more texture than store bought and will last around 1 month in the fridge Waffles can be made ahead and frozen Thaw and reheat in the waffle maker or the oven

Banana Fruit compoteMakes enough for 6

3 ripe bananas peeled sliced into rounds2 Tbs (30 g) butter2 Tbs (30 g) brown sugar1frac12 tsp (8 mL) vanilla extract1frac12 tsp (8 mL) bourbon

1 Add butter and sugar to a sauteacute pan over medium heat As they melt stir to combine

2 Add vanilla and bourbon than add sliced bananas and sauteacute until warmed through

Serve your warm waffles topped with your homemade hazelnut spread sauteacuteed bananas and a dollop of whipped cream or ice cream

Homemade Nutella Makes 1frac12 cups

1frac12 cups (200 g) whole hazelnutsfrac34 cup (100g) icing sugar3 Tbs (45 mL) canola oilfrac14 cup (30 g) cocoa powder1 tsp (5 mL) vanilla extract

1 Toast hazelnuts on a baking pan in a preheated 350ordm F oven for 10 - 15 minutes Keep an eye on them to make sure they donrsquot start to burn Remove from oven and let cool to the touch

2 Wrap the nuts in a kitchen towel and rub together to remove the skins This should remove most of the skins

3 Place skinless hazelnuts in a food processor on high Process the nuts until they form a smooth paste and the oils start to separate (about 5 minutes) scraping the bowl often

4 Add the icing sugar cocoa powder vanilla and canola oil to the food processor and process until fully incorporated scraping bowl of processor as needed (about 2 minutes)

Hazelnut Banana WafflesMakes 6

frac12 cup (80 g) all purpose flour1 tsp baking powderfrac12 tsp baking sodaPinch sea salt1 Tbs (15 g) icing sugar1 Tbs (10 g) ground hazelnuts6 grates whole nutmeg1 tsp ground cinnamonfrac12 cup (125 mL) buttermilk1 egg yolk2 Tbs (30 g) butter meltedfrac12 small banana peeled and mashed1 egg white

1 Sift together all dry ingredients (except the ground hazelnuts) in a medium bowl Add the ground hazelnuts and combine

2 Mash the half banana in a small bowl with a fork Add the egg buttermilk and melted butter

3 Whisk the egg white to stiff peaks

4 Whisk the wet ingredients into the dry and fold the egg white into the mixture

5 Follow the directions for your waffle pan to cook waffles for around 5 minutes or until cooked through

Note Remember to bring the waffle pan up to temperature in between each batch of waffles

Hazelnut Banana Waffles with Nutella

30

Citrus Beer Friendsby DAVID NUTTALL

This is when the taste andor aroma of a beer can remind the drinker of anything from an orange drink or lemonade to grapefruit soda There are several ways to achieve this character and these beers are becoming more and more popular every day

Hops provide the bitterness in beer and out of the literally hundreds of varieties a few impart citrus notes into the aroma and flavour Cascade and Citra are examples of two of the most popular hops used in several styles of beer most notably the American IPA or India Pale Ale Cascade hops have been around for over 40 years and it is the single most popular hop used by the American craft brewing industry It provides a floralspicy character often reminiscent of grapefruit

Citrarsquos name leaves no guessing as to its attributes A relative newcomer this cross breed of UK German and US hop varieties has been around for less than a decade but it is already an extremely popular hop for imparting

One of the great things about beer is its diversity It can come in a myriad of colours and also a wide variety of flavours citrus being one of the most distinct

Dave Nuttall has been in the liquor and event business forever He is a qualified beer judge and ownerpresident of Epicurean Calgary at epicureancalgarycom for ten years

citrus and tropical fruit characteristics to a beer

It has proven very versatile and appears in several beer styles from session ales to IPAs It has also become a favourite hop to use for dry-hopping (adding hops late into the boil) due to the exceptional aromas it produces For even more flavour and aroma craft brewers now commonly enhance these already citrusy IPAs with actual zest peel or juice from citrus fruits to create an IPAFruit Beer hybrid which sells especially well in summer months

Then there is the yeast and many varieties of yeast can produce citrusy esters The unfiltered hefeweizens brewed on both sides of the Atlantic quite often have a lemony flavour Sour beers also showcase the yeast often cultured from Belgian strains

These beers are tart and produce a gamut of flavours many with citrus qualities and some have added fruit - the easiest and most obvious way to create a citrusy beer The Belgians also add different kinds of oranges with spice additions to their wheat ales to create wit beers now emulated all over the world with different citrus (and other) fruits involved in the recipe We also canrsquot forget the radlers which are simply a lager beer mixed with 40-60 fruit juice - often grapefruit or lemonade

Whether itrsquos added fruit the yeast the hops or a combination of all of them citrusy beers are commonplace now Thanks to new hops like Citra and the increasing popularity of wits and sours we can expect this trend to continue

Here are a few local beers with hints of citrus All are also available on tap

Beer comes in a myriad of colours and flavours citrus being one of the

most distinct

Ribstone Creek Great White CombineThis tiny Edgerton Alberta brewery has been knocking it out of the park lately Named after the ubiquitous Alberta summer hailstorm the use of Belgian yeast sweet orange peel and coriander give this beer an orange flavour in the beginning When the four different hop additions kick in it changes more to a sweet lemony flavour This White IPA has a very tropical feel that makes you forget it was made in northern Alberta CSPC +774162 $16 6-pack cans

Wild Rose Cowbell Sour ales are the new Belle of the Ball at craft breweries Often using imported Belgian yeast strains they are tart tangy and wellhellip sour Calgaryrsquos Wild Rose has taken this flavour profile and added kaffir lime leaves This makes the beer more like a refreshing limeade and is less bitter than many of its other sour counterparts CSPC +778093 $17 6-pack bottles

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TICKETS AVAILABLE AT ALBERTABEERFESTIVALSCOM

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Citradelic Single Hop IPA Big Rock BreweryWith breweries in two (soon to be three) provinces Big Rock now has multiple locations to develop new beers This is the first one from their Vancouver brewery and is full of lemongrapefruit flavours and tropical aromas This beer showcases the Citra hop fooling one to think that citrus has been added when itrsquos all thanks to the hop CSPC +778593 $15 6-pack bottles

Alley Kat Main SqueezeWhat started out as a summer seasonal has now become a mainstay of this Edmonton brewery A North American style wheat ale with a 50 wheat and 50 barley mix it has added grapefruit juice but tastes more along the lines of pink grapefruit rather than its more bitter cousin CSPC +733630 $17 6-pack bottles

32

story by RENEE KOHLMAN

Cheesecake is one of those classic desserts that almost everyone loves unless of course you have a dairy allergy then yoursquoll stay far far away from it While it may seem too complicated to make at home I assure you that itrsquos not

Spice it up cheesecake

Sure there are a few steps involved but the key thing to remember is to have your eggs and cream cheese at room temperature For the best crack-free cheesecake itrsquos best to bake it in a water bath It yields a light creamy texture and is well worth the effort Cheesecake always tastes better the next day so bake it the day before you want to serve it Now that wersquove got the basics down itrsquos time to have a little fun with the crust filling and toppings

The Base

The classic graham cracker crust is fine but every now and again itrsquos great to switch things up Try

ndash Grinding up ginger cookies They work especially well for a pumpkin cheesecake

ndash Chocolate cookie crumbs are fantastic for caramel peanut butter and raspberry cheesecakes

ndash Add finely chopped nuts oats or seeds to the cookie crumbs for added texture and taste

The Middle

Therersquos something to be said for a straight up vanilla or chocolate cheesecake but with some fun add-ins they could take your cheesecake to the next level of deliciousness Try

ndash Swirling tahini dulce de leche salted caramel or chocolate fudge sauce into a creamy vanilla filling

ndash Mix in chopped chocolate peanut butter cups to a chocolate filling

ndash Drop fresh berries (raspberries blueberries blackberries) on top of a vanilla filling

ndash Stir in chopped candied ginger dried cherries or cranberries chopped toasted nuts to the filling

ndash Swap some of the cream cheese with ricotta mascarpone cheese or even strained cottage cheese

ndash You can never go wrong with lemon zest in a vanilla cheesecake

Have a little fun with the crust filling

and toppings

33

Apple Crumble CheesecakeMakes about 12-14 servings Total cook and prep time 3 hours (plus overnight chilling)

I love apple crisp and I love cheesecake This recipe is a fine marriage of both and makes a more than acceptable breakfast The base is a crumble of oats and flour the middle is classic cheesecake and itrsquos topped with cinnamon apples and a buttery oat streusel

Crust 2 cups large flake oats1 cup all purpose flour cup packed brown sugarfrac34 cup butter meltedfrac12 tsp salt

Cheesecake Layer3 - 225 g packages cream cheese at room temperature cup granulated sugar1 tsp (5 mL) vanilla3 large eggs at room temperature cup (80 mL) whipping cream

Apple Layer2 apples peeled cored and sliced about 3-4 mm thick1 tsp ground cinnamonfrac12 tsp salt

Streusel Layer1 cup large flake oatsfrac12 cup all-purpose flourfrac12 cup brown sugarfrac12 cup butter softened1 tsp ground cinnamon

Preheat the oven to 375ordm F

1 Butter the bottom and sides of a 9-inch springform pan with sides that are at least 7 cm high Wrap the bottom of the pan in aluminum foil so it comes at least halfway up the sides

2 Combine the crust ingredients in a large bowl Press the crust evenly into the pan and place on a baking sheet Bake for 10 minutes Remove from oven and let it cool on a wire rack

3 Reduce heat to 325ordm F Put a kettle of water on to boil Have a large roasting pan close by

4 Using a stand mixer with a paddle attachment beat the cream cheese at medium speed for 4 minutes scraping down the sides once or twice until it is soft and creamy With the mixer still running add the sugar and beat for another 4 minutes scraping down the sides of the bowl at least twice Beat in the vanilla Add the eggs one at a time beating for 1 minute after each addition and scraping the bowl Reduce speed to low and add the whipping cream

5 Toss the sliced apples with the cinnamon and salt in a small bowl Combine all of the streusel ingredients in a medium bowl and mix well

6 Place the springform pan in the roasting pan Give the cheesecake batter a good stir and pour it on top of the crust Arrange the apples on top and sprinkle the streusel on top of the apples

7 Place in the oven on the middle rack and pour the hot water into the roasting pan so it comes halfway up the sides of the springform pan

8 Bake the cheesecake for 1frac12 hours Turn off the heat prop open the oven door and let the cheesecake hang inside for another hour

9 Carefully remove from the oven and take out the cheesecake from the hot water bath Remove the foil and let the cheesecake come to room temperature on a wire rack Cover the top lightly and refrigerate for at least 4 hours but overnight is best The next day remove the sides of the pan and serve the cake

Renee is a food writer and pastry chef living in beautiful Saskatoon Saskatchewan Her columns appear in The Saskatoon StarPhoenix and her desserts can be enjoyed at Riverside Country Club Also check out her blog wwwsweetsugarbeancom

The Toppings

Cheesecake with no fun toppings is like a salad with no dressing it just doesnrsquot reach its full flavour potential Try

ndash Salted caramel roasted strawberry sauce or warm chocolate sauce

ndash A rhubarbcardamom compote is divine on top of vanilla cheesecake kissed with a bit of lemon zest Cherry compote is divine with chocolate cheesecake

ndash Have a favourite jam Melt it down with a tiny bit of water and drizzle it on top of your favourite cheesecake

ndash Candied nuts and citrus rind chocolate shavings even crumbled cookies are a fun way to add texture to the cheesecake

ndash Never underestimate the power of fresh seasonal berries and a well-made cheesecakeMacerate them in a little sugar and minced mint or basil and they make a lovely topping Donrsquot forget the whipped cream

34

Think about that for a moment and let that sink in like a cherry in your drink

So how old is ice in bars Well thatrsquos a whole story on its own however the Old Fashioned has been talked about in one form or another since the beginning of the 19th Century The first appearance of this classic cocktail was in the Balance and Columbian Repository newspaper in 1806 as such ldquoA stimulating liquor composed of spirits of any kind sugar water and bittersrdquo

The Old FashionedAn Iconic Drink That Has Stood The Test Of Time

by BRICE PERESSINI

Sohelliphow old is the Old Fashioned The Old Fashioned is as old as ice in bars

When you follow these instructions and put this finely-crafted cocktail into your hand swirl around the ice gaze through the caramel-coloured liquid in the glass and contemplate all that has gone into it you can rest assured you are holding a drink that has delighted taste buds for generations The Old Fashioned however has not always been held in high regard There was a time not too long ago where this fine concoction was an unbalanced fruity watered-down pale imitation of itself More recently

there has been a renaissance involved with this invigorating intoxicant and you can and should expect a proper cocktail when it is ordered at a fine establishment

When this drink is properly prepared it should be in perfect balance (as any proper drink should be) The sweetness of the sugar should not cover the flavour of the bourbon and the bitters should add to not overpower the flavour of the whiskey When the Old Fashioned is well made it is as close to cocktail perfection as a sophisticated patron could expect

Befriend a bespoke barkeep at an upstanding establishment and you will be in trusted hands If you find yourself at home and wanting for a nightcap look no further than the Old Fashioned

Enjoy friends

Old Fashioned Recipe

2 oz Buffalo Trace Bourbon (or your personal favourite)4 dashes Angostura Aromatic Bitters1 raw sugar cube

Muddle the sugar and bitters together with a touch of warm water in a rocks glass Add the bourbon then add ice Stir and garnish with an orange peel and cherry (optional)

Brice is a competition cocktail bartender who plies his trade behind the wood at Chefbar Whisk(e)y is his poison Neat

35

Shoulder Season Wines

by JACLYN ADOMEIT

Wines For Cool Weather

Refreshing white wines match with sunny patios and hot days while bold tannic red wines earn their keep by a fireplace on a winter night Common sense But what about the shoulder season What if yoursquore eating sea bass on a rainy spring day Or sipping wine on a patio during an uncommonly warm April afternoon

Photograph courtesy Tom Firth

36

Wine not only pairs with food but with temperatures and seasons A bright sauvignon blanc can taste flat and acidic on a cold night at no fault of the wine or the drinker Some white wines are other-worldly at the vineyard tasting room in the summer but fall flat when you pull them out for dinner guests in the winter

The change in taste is likely due to a number of factors Anatomically it is your sinus cavities creating the change Higher atmospheric pressures allow your nose to pick out subtle aromas while lower pressures bring out a winersquos acidity and harsh tannins CO2 degasses from liquid at low pressure leaving wines dull and flat too

Serving temperature can greatly affect a winersquos aromatics white wines chilled to near-freezing have dull aromas (Tip allow the bottle a half hour on the counter before popping the cork This will allow the aromatics to warm up enhancing the flavour)

Lastly your own palate will be partial to different flavours depending on sun snow wind and sleet but as a rule of thumb higher alcohol white wines (approximately 13 percent or more) will warm the soul and pair best with cooler weather

Here are some wine selections to go for when it is not too hot and not too cold so you can choose a pairing thatrsquos just right

Fiano

Yoursquoll notice that many of the best white wines for cold weather are grown in hot places Hot climates mean a longer growing season more sugar which leads to higher alcohol and often more robust and tropical flavours All of this is true for fiano - seldom grown outside of Campania in southern Italy Fiano produces age-worthy wines which are rich nutty and delicious

Feudi Di San Gregorio 2014 Campania Fiano di Avellino Italy A beautiful floral bouquet with candied lemon followed by honey-coated hazelnuts on the palate Worth cellaring for a few seasons The perfect dance partner for poultry CSPC +708589 $33

Viognier

Viognier is a white varietal that is best consumed at slightly higher temperatures A chilly glass of viognier will leave you with acid maybe oak and not much else Allow it to warm and you may experience peach pear and toasted almond

Traditionally grown in the warm south of France viognier is often a higher alcohol white wine with rich tropical flavours The heat of the alcohol with tropical flavours and lower acid makes viognier the perfect wine to sip while watching a late spring snowfall

Paul Mas 2014 Languedoc-Roussillon Viognier France Brimming with apricot almond lemon and ripe peach Contains hints of warming oak Pair with something savoury baked brie or spinach-filled puff pastry CSPC + 740978 $17

Dry Roseacute

There is so much more to be had from roseacute than white zinfandel And no itrsquos not just a mix of red and white wine The best roseacute is made from red skinned grapes that only sit on their skins for up to a day and a half to borrow colour and flavour then are fermented and processed

Refined examples of roseacute wines are often dry and have deep aromas of red fruits mild tannins and are savoury instead of sweet The French and Spanish craft great examples of dry roseacutes that are either a single varietal or a blend of grapes such as mourvegravedre grenache syrah or tempranillo

Muga Roseacute 2014 Rioja Grenache Viura and Tempranillo Spain A tamed Rioja Orange blossom woven together with strawberry and a palate of cherry and savoury soft cheese Ideal for charcuterie CSPC + 710261 $16

Orange Wine

Never heard of orange wine A commercial demand for natural wines has fostered a resurgence in ancient wine making practices While roseacute wines are reds that have been produced using white wine making practices orange wines are created from white grapes submitted to maceration and allowed to sit on the skins before fermentation the same practice employed in red winemaking

Unlike any white you have tasted orange wines are full-bodied have mild tannins and deep flavours - the characteristics that allow red wines to bring warmth to cool nights A must try for any wine buff

Allow the bottle a half hour on the counter

before popping the cork

The Bicicleta wines are characterized by their fruity expression and for offering more than

the traditional strains a clear example of this range`s innovation style and creativity

Cono Sur Vineyards amp Winery ConoSurVineyards ConoSurWinesconosurcom

The brewhouse at Wild Rose

Jaclynrsquos first passion was winemaking Shersquos worked in vineyards cellars and restaurants Currently she is a writer who daylights as an environmental engineer She believes that a good life like a good wine is not complete without balance

Nichol 2013 Naramata Pinot Gris Canada A Canadian example of orange wine with backbone Flavours of caramel apple roast nuts orange rind and peach CSPC +504159 $31

Oaked chardonnay

In and out with popular palates oak and chardonnay have been partners for a long time Oak paired with chardonnay can bring out butter richness toasted vanilla tree fruit and in the best examples shimmering minerality That is because oak aging is often accompanied by a malolactic fermentation process that smooths out rigid acids into lactic acid - the acid found in milk

Chardonnay is a grape of many talents and encounters a great diversity of production styles It is oaked examples that pair best with pensive rainy days They are full-bodied warming and complex

Wente Morning Fog 2014 Livermore Valley (California) Chardonnay USA Half oak-aged and malolactic-fermented half crisp and fresh this chardonnay brings together green apple vanilla and toasted oak A friend to cream sauce and roast chicken CSPC +175430 $18

In a province of mutable weather let your wine choices be as varied as the ever changing winds Cheers and herersquos to refined full-bodied cool-weather wines

38

Once yoursquore done with your magazine cover shoot like we did this month or prepping for dinner and have all of those odds and ends just sitting on the cutting board - you know carrot ends onion skins tips of celery stalks you get the point - donrsquot toss lsquoem

Instead place them into a large ziploc bag and straight into the freezer After a couple of weeks yoursquoll likely have four full freezer bags of vegetable bits ready to be turned into broth and herersquos how you do it

Making a big batch of vegetable broth doesnrsquot always mean a trip to the grocery store All you need to do is save those scraps This is a handy trick I learned years ago courtesy of Bon Appetit

No-Waste Vegetable Broth

by DAN CLAPSON

Odds And Ends BrothYields 8 cups (2 L)

12 cups (3 L) water4 full ziploc bags of vegetable trimmings1 yellow onion quartered4 cloves garlicAromatics of choice (I usually toss a couple of rosemary and thyme sprigs in there)To taste Salt and pepper

1 Place all ingredients in a large pot and bring to a boil on medium-high heat

2 Reduce to medium heat and let simmer uncovered for 1frac12 hours

3 Strain season to taste with salt and pepper and use as desired

Full circlePizza amp Oyster Bar

933 17 Ave SW bull fullcirclepizzaca

buck-a-shuck oysters

$1 oysters every night

9 pm - close Sunday-thursday 11 pm - close friday amp saturday

40

Salentein 2012 Reserve Chardonnay Uco Valley Argentina

Very very enjoyable chardonnay blowing me away with complexity varietal character and fine balance between oak lees and fruit Toffee baked apple tangerine and a little almond on the nose lead into silkily textured wine in the mouth Top shelf chardonnay that might be great with lobster tails mussels or poultry Around $20 CSPC +779479

Rutini 2013 Cabernet Malbec Mendoza Argentina

An exceptionally well put together blend - if you want rich berry fruits lots of body but maybe not tons of varietal characters from the individual components Lifted and bright fruits make for a very enjoyable glass Simply perfect for your next barbecue a roast or just chilling out with friends and family $26-30 CSPC +776822

Vinecol 2014 Organic Malbec Mendoza Argentina Fair Trade organic and vegan along with a good price is it still good Piles of fresh fruits (think smashed raspberries) with plenty of spice and soft herb-leaf aromas There are plenty of malbec flavours on the palate too Good for any day of the week with just a little tension between fruit tannin and acid it might be best with pub style burgers pulled pork or sausages About $16 CSPC +755296

Argentina is so much more than malbec While such a noble grape has found its best home in the high altitude vineyards of Argentina there is a lot going on with other grapes as well

Making The Case For Argentina

by TOM FIRTH

This massive country nestled up against the Andes mountains has a range of growing conditions suited to a number of grapes From Salta in the north to Patagonia in the south plenty of interesting wines are available here - many reasonably priced and of excellent quality So yes there are some

malbecs on these pages but please do try some of the other grapes and blends coming from Argentina too

Be sure to crack open a bottle of malbec on ldquoWorld Malbec Dayrdquo April 17 - who knows it might be nice enough to barbecue too

Photograph courtesy Tom Firth

41

Manos Negras 2011 Stone Soil Select Mendoza Argentina Quite new to the market this is a pretty enjoyable version of Argentinarsquos flagship grape Loads of blue fruit and raspberries with spices galore and a little compost Rich flavours lead to a lengthy spicy finish Yes please Bring to a barbecue if you can $21 CSPC +630541

Zuccardi 2012 Zeta Mendoza Argentina

A malbec-cabernet sauvignon blend that is also a blend of two different Mendoza appellations La Consulta and Gualtallary Deep and abundant fruit aromas with liquorice root and a touch of blueberry preserves Excellent balance of flavours on the palate too with the right structure and tannin for aging if desired Enjoy with a prime rib or even meaty pasta dishes or game $50-52 CSPC +740270

Zuccardi 2012 ldquoEmmardquo Bonarda Mendoza Argentina

In my humble opinion one of the finest bonardas coming out of Argentina Notes of coffee bean and espresso complement cherry and blackberry fruits with healthy balanced tannins to stand up to the tart fruits Delicious for sure enjoy at your next barbecue $40 CSPC +758407

Luigi Bosca 2011 Cabernet-Malbec Mendoza Argentina

A wonderfully earthy and savoury blend with plenty of tobacco spice leather and yes lots of fruit too The earthy flavours work well with the big dark chocolate flavours and weighty tannins Drink now or through 2020 or so - with a steak naturally $22-24 CSPC +766010

Trivento 2013 Golden Reserve Malbec Lujan de Cuyo Argentina While there is a trend to see a lot of premium malbecs move away from oak presence this one is a bold smooth and delicious example that is seeing about a year of oak All those berry fruits plums and herb notes malbec is known for along with the smoothness that only oak brings Kick back relax maybe cook up some steaks - enjoy About $24 CSPC +711402

Trivento 2014 Malbec Reserve Mendoza Argentina Nearly unbeatable for good malbec at a great price itrsquos rich and chocolatey on the nose with big fruits and oak tones too Mild garrigue notes or dried herb flavours with plenty of fruit and tannins - still showing a fine sense of balance Enjoy with beef $14 CSPC +730714

Luigi Bosca 2011 De Sangre Mendoza Argentina A blend of cabernet sauvignon merlot and syrah that manages to pull out the best of each varietal Earthy and slightly smoky with good fruits and plenty of versatility Tannins are well-placed against the fruits with a long smooth finish Irsquove been a fan of this wine year after year Good to keep a couple on hand in the cellar About $29 CSPC +745106

Salentein 2012 Numina Gran Corte Uco Valley Argentina A malbec-dominated Bordeaux blend this stunner is all about ripe fruits cedar pepper cherries and plum with a little tealeaf and the right amount of tannins Very very well balanced and like any great wine think about some food to go with it Beef tenderloin slow cooked meats or maybe at your next asadohellip About $40 CSPC +764706

Colonia Las Liebres 2013 Bonarda Mendoza Argentina Bear with me here - a fine bonarda with plenty of earthy smoky aromas leading to rubber charred cherries and cocoa Some pretty prominent tannins to be found as well but wow does it all come together A wine that just begs for duck with cranberries or maybe some kebabshellip$20 CSPC +773381

42

Open That Bottleby LINDA GARSON photography by INGRID KUENZEL

ldquoIf you work in a place and yoursquore miserable I donrsquot know if there is a dollar amount that can be attached to that The work that yoursquore doing has to be rewarding and challengingrdquo says Karen KhoGrowing up in Niagara Falls in a Philippino SpanishChinese family Kho was surrounded by food and drinks with an open door policy that has had a huge influence on the person she is today - an

entertainer who likes to make people feel welcome ldquoMy parents wanted me to be a lawyer there was definitely an encouragement to use my voice for goodrdquo she explains ldquoAnd I still think I help people but in a different way a very social wayrdquo

Graduating Western University with a political science degree in 2000 Kho spent a year travelling and living in Australia before taking a leap of faith and moving to Calgary Here she studied wine with the International Sommeliers Guild and WSET but says her real education was a job she adored working in the wine trade at BIN 905 in tandem with running wine programs for CRMR restaurants It was only when the opportunity came to create the wine program at Vin Room six years later that Kho leapt at the challenge of a new idea for the city and spent four happy years there

Eventually she and her partner decided to stretch their wings and went to Vancouver where Kho embarked on a six-month culinary course at the Pacific Institute of Culinary Arts ticking off another box on her bucket list ldquoI wanted a greater understanding of technique in the kitchen and I wanted an understanding of what service on a very basic level would look like if I ever owned my own place and ever had to be the person who filled inrdquo she says ldquoI feel if I was ever in a place that needed someone to chop onions Irsquom your womanrdquo she laughs

A year later the pair came back with the idea of eventually opening their own business in Calgary ldquoThe support we get from this community is heartfelt and this is a city of opportunity People with the right concept are seeing a lot of great success itrsquos still our game planrdquo she says Meanwhile Kho applied only to Teatro where she is now Group Service Director

ldquoI wanted to work at a place that had a challenging wine program and had a level of service with high expectations and where professional service teams

applyrdquo she says ldquoItrsquos pretty romantic to work for a company that has been built on a foundation of service Successful businesses in the restaurant industry get the grand picture which is the moments that yoursquore creating for people and I like to be a part of thatrdquo she adds

So what bottle is Kho saving for a special occasion

Paying homage to her time at BIN 905 Kho explains ldquoI have a bottle of 1996 Chateau Mouton Rothschild which was given to me with some very kind words on my last day at BIN Irsquove always just appreciated my time there it was where I learned the vernacular of wine and itrsquos my first job where I really saw the benefits of serving people with intentionrdquo She continues ldquoI always see it thankfully as the stepping-stone to a broader wine profession and eventually to the position that I have now It was given to me by very close friends that Irsquom still friends with to this dayrdquo

And when is she planning to open the wine

ldquoWhen (partner) Dave and I open our own restaurantrdquo Kho says This isnrsquot something that something that will happen tomorrow but fortunately the wine will last until theyrsquore ready

Charcoal-grilled prime cutsHand-muddled caipirinhas50+ salad bar optionsThree distinct private rooms

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8

Book Review

Karen Miller is a lawyer by trade giving her a knack for picking apart a cookbook She has taught many styles of cooking classes and was part of the Calgary Dishing girls

Lick Your Plateby Julie Albert and Lisa GnatAppetite by Random House 2016 $32

by KAREN MILLER

The Bite Me Bite Me Too sisters are back this time thankfully with a little less gimmick Their cooking was always good and their passion for sharing always evident but it seems they have become more confident in their cooking

Lick Your Plate is a cookbook a lot of us will want on our kitchen shelf a compilation of recognizable recipes for family meals and entertaining alike The sisters have still managed to convey their effervescent style but the focus is on easy recipes anyone can do These girls are happy in the kitchen

It would be hard not to find some old favourites or a style of cuisine you want to try The recipes are not ldquoauthenticrdquo

but they work - they are quick and will satisfy your cravings Very few recipes have preparation times in excess of 15 minutes and the ingredients are easily found in our pantry They incorporate many styles from fast stir fries to slow cooker meals healthy grains a full range of vegetables dishes (yes including

Brussels sprouts and kale) and tempting desserts (try the Golden Apple Crisp with Salted Caramel Sauce on p 275)

The sisters have made an absolutely respectable version of a traditional Moroccan soup (Moroccan Chickpea amp Lemon Couscous Soup p 36) and who would not want to try their version of sticky buns (Luscious Lemon Sticky Buns p 243)

The cookbook still has a good sense of humour with catchy chapter titles and scattered quotes which will bring a smile to your face and do what they are intended to do - take the pressure off Enjoying the cooking process is what this cookbook is about making it easy and good enough to lick your plate

C u l i n a i r e rsquo s 2 n d A n n u a l T r e a s u r e H u n t i s S a t u r d a y A p r i l 9 t h

You may see yourself on television too this year mdash definitely another day to remember

culinairemag CulinaireMagazine culinairemag culinairemagazineca

Wersquore beyond excited for another amazing day of foodies in Calgary racing round the city to find out what treats await at over 30 destinations ndash the vast majority of which are new for 2016

Everyone went home a winner at our first annual Culinaire Treasure Hunt last year ndash and some were multiple winners We were completely sold out and it was so popular that we were trending on Twitter

Trivia questions about the participating restaurants markets and stores revealed the answers for where to dash off to receive your treat get your passport stamped and probably come away with a little culinary gift too

And there are fabulous prizes for the people who visit the most locations wear the best costumes have the funniest team names tweet the funniest photoshellip and lots lots more

This year is going to be an even more fun and rewarding day - we hope you and a partner have signed up as a team of two and registered to join us or signed up solo

Visit culinairemagazinecacontests follow us on Twitter culinairemag for the latest details and like us on facebook at facebookcomCulinaireMagazine to keep up with the news

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QuEbEacuteC CITy mONTREacuteAL OTTAWA TORONTO VANCOuVER CALgARy EDmONTON hALIFAX

The largest tasting tour of California wines in CanadaAlso includes a silent auction of wines not available in Canada

In todayrsquos busy world you may not get a chance to pick up

every issue of Culinaire To ensure

your copy go to culinairemagazineca to have the next ten issues delivered right

to your door

Order today mdash 10 issues for $39+gst

We Deliver

14 Ways to Spice Up Grilled Cheese | Beyond YYC Maui | Sunday Suppers

C A L G A R Y F O O D amp D R I N K R E C I P E S V O L U M E 4 N O 8 J A N U A R Y F E B R U A R Y 2 0 1 6

FOOD TRENDS FOR 2016

20+ AWARD-WINNING

TOP VALUE WINES

Beyond YYC Canmore amp Banff | Grab-and-Go | Absinthe The Green Fairy

C A L G A R Y F O O D amp D R I N K R E C I P E S V O L U M E 4 N O 9 M A R C H 2 0 1 6

RAISE A GLASS

TO WOMEN BEHIND THE BAR

AMAZING COCKTAILS TO MAKE AT HOME

For Foodies amp Beverage Lovers

10

A sure-fire favourite dish at Una Pizza + Wine Kale Caesar Salad is much requested It has all the elements of a perfect salad crunchy prosciutto and breadcrumbs and chewy kale leaves and egg for texture with grated cheese and a creamy plate-licking dressing to pull it all together Many thanks to Una Executive Chef Jen Pena for sharing it with us

Unarsquos Kale Caesar SaladServes 4

Salad2 Tbs (30 mL) olive oil plus more if needed4 thin slices prosciutto juliennedfrac12 cup panko breadcrumbsMaldon salt and black pepper2 bunches kale leaves only julienned1 cup grated Pecorino cheese2 hard boiled eggs peeled and halved (optional)

Caesar Dressing1 clove garlic4 anchovy fillets1 Tbs (15 mL) Dijon mustardZest and juice of 1 lemonfrac12 cup (120 mL) olive oil

1 Using a fork crush garlic and anchovies against the inside of a large bowl Add mustard lemon juice zest and olive oil and whisk until well emulsified Pour the dressing into a glass jar and set aside

2 Line a plate with paper towels Heat olive oil in a medium frying pan on high Add prosciutto and pan-fry until crispy about 5 minutes Transfer to the paper towel-lined plate and set aside

3 Reduce the heat to low and add panko crumbs to the pan adding a little oil if required Toast until golden about 2 minutes Scrape the panko into a small bowl season to taste with salt and set aside

4 Place kale in a large bowl pour in the dressing and toss well Season with salt and black pepper Transfer to a serving

bowl and top with grated Pecorino cheese toasted panko and crispy prosciutto Serve with the boiled eggs if desired

If therersquos a dish in a restaurant that yoursquod love to know how to make let us know at culinairemagazinecacontact-us and wersquoll do our very best to track it down for you

Off The Menu

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2016 will be an even greater competition this year Visit culinairemagazinecaaba

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For more information contact competition director Tom Firth tomculinairemagazineca

Registration Deadline July 1 | Judging Takes Place July 18-19-20

12

Tricks Chefs Tipsstory by ROBYN MACLEAN photography by INGRID KUENZEL Knives

The most important tool in any kitchen without a doubt is a good knife As Iron Chef Masahari Morimoto would say ldquoa kitchen without a knife is not a kitchenrdquo

I couldnrsquot agree more

For professional cooks knives are practically an extension of their hands and probably better cared for But a quality knife is just as essential for home cooks If yoursquore even slightly inclined to cook at home at the very least you should own a classic 20 cm chefrsquos knife ndash the go-to knife for the brunt of daily kitchen tasks

But itrsquos certainly not the only knife you should have in your arsenal Slicing dicing filleting butchering and julienning become a whole lot easier when you use the right knife for the job and these three Calgary chefs share their favourite model and a recipe to help point you in the right direction

䈀甀礀 琀栀攀 琀漀瀀 栀愀氀昀 漀昀 愀渀礀 戀漀琀琀氀攀 漀昀 眀椀渀攀 戀攀琀眀攀攀渀 瀀洀ⴀ㘀瀀洀 愀渀搀 最攀琀 琀栀攀 戀漀琀琀漀洀 琀栀攀 昀甀渀 栀愀氀昀⤀ 昀漀爀 䘀刀䔀䔀

䘀刀

䔀䔀

䴀伀一䐀䄀夀 ⴀ 䘀刀䤀䐀䄀夀 瀀洀 ⴀ㘀瀀洀

瀀爀椀挀攀 戀漀琀琀氀攀猀 漀昀 眀椀渀攀㔀 戀漀琀琀氀攀猀 漀昀 戀攀攀爀㔀 栀椀最栀戀愀氀氀猀

䠀䄀䰀䘀 䘀刀䔀䔀 圀䤀一䔀

㔀 㔀 Ⰰ 㠀 䄀 瘀 攀 匀 圀 Ⰰ 䌀 愀 氀 最 愀 爀 礀 Ⰰ 䄀 䈀 吀 倀 䜀

Pacific Albacore Tuna CrudoServes 4

335 g Pacific albacore tuna 1 honey crisp or granny smith apple 4 cloves of garlic thinly sliced frac12 tsp ground espelette chili frac14 cup (60 mL) sunflower oil frac14 cup (60 mL) flax oil 1 Tbs lightly toasted flax seed 8 pickled string beans (keep some pickling liquid)4 slices of prosciutto 1 Tbs (1 mL) rice vinegar Pea shoots Good quality finishing salt like fleur de sel

1 Slice garlic as thinly as possible and combine with sunflower oil in a small saucepan Heat slowly and allow the garlic to fry until golden brown Remove from heat and add the ground espelette chili

2 Allow the oil to steep for 15-20 minutes at room temperature Once cool add flax oil

Chef Matthias Fong

3 Slice 8 pickled string beans thinly into rounds

4 Dice the apple into 1 cm cubes and add a splash of the pickled string bean liquid as well as rice vinegar add to the sliced string beans

5 Set up 4 plates Slice the tuna into frac34 cm thick slices and lay out 85 g per plate Using the finishing salt season the tuna to taste

6 Pull the prosciutto slices apart into bite-sized pieces and scatter them with the tuna slices

7 Drizzle 1 Tbs (15 mL) flax oil over each plate with a few slices of the fried garlic from the oil on each plate

8 Scatter the apple and string bean mixture over the slices of tuna being sure to spoon some of the pickling liquid from the bowl over the tuna slices Finish with pea shoot tips and toasted flax seed

Chef Matthias FongRiver Cafeacute

A good quality knife is made from high quality steel usually German or Japanese which will stay sharp for a long period of time and has the potential to last a lifetime

Owning a stainless steel knife versus one made from high carbon steel is also extremely beneficial in any kitchen Itrsquos easy for a knife to end up in the sink which can leave non-stainless varieties rusted and ruined

ldquoRegardless of style or brand itrsquos never safe to let knives go dull Dull knives lead to excessive force and can easily slip off the product yoursquore cuttingrdquo cautions Fong

ldquoTo properly care for a knife I recommend investing in some sharpening stone andor a ceramic honing rod which prolongs the life of your knife and requires less sharpening I also suggest signing up for a class to learn the art of sharpening or just take your knives directly to the folks at Knifewear and theyrsquoll gladly maintain for yourdquo

ldquoMy go-to knife is the Tojiro Flash 825-inch slicer Itrsquos short in length making it versatile for a variety of uses I use it for the majority of my prep work but itrsquos ideal for slicing and carving The narrow blade allows for paper thin slicing on delicate fish like tunardquo says Fong

ldquoI favour the Tojiro line of knives because they offer stainless Japanese steel thatrsquos easy to sharpen and repairrdquo

14

Chef Kai SalimaumlkiThe Block

Chef Salimaumlki is all about a great multipurpose knife ldquoI love the Masakage Kumo Petty 150 mm knife Itrsquos ideal for numerous tasks in the kitchen but I especially love it for chopping fine herbs Itrsquos lightweight and has a remarkably sharp edge that has chives bouncing from under it in perfect uniform circlesrdquo he explains

The Petty knife is ideal for smaller jobs such as slicing shallots cutting herbs and boning smaller proteins And because of its size itrsquos also a great alternative for those who feel uncomfortable wielding a larger heavier chefrsquos knife

ldquoI would recommend this knife for the home cook as it can replace many utility knives people seem to collect in drawers And of course most importantly I recommend proper love attention and care to ensure you keep this tool functioning for a very long timerdquo

You simply canrsquot do your best without your equipment at its best

Chef Jorel ZielkeBrasserie Kensington and Winebar

ldquoIrsquom a huge fan of my 10frac34-inch MAC chefrsquos knife This multipurpose knife is modeled after the standard French chefrsquos kniferdquo says Zielke

Sirloin Beef TartareServes 2

335 g AAA beef sirloin2 Tbs (30 mL) grainy mustard cup minced shallots Tbs minced gherkins2 Tbs cup finely chopped parsley Worcestershire sauce to tasteHot sauce to tasteCold pressed canola oil to taste 1 egg yolk in tact with all whites removedPinch of fresh grated horseradishSalt and pepper

1 Finely dice the sirloin removing any connective tissue or silver-skin Do not trim off the fat Pass over the meat several times with your knife

2 Mix in mustard shallots gherkins parsley Worcestershire hot sauce oil and salt and pepper

3 Note All garnish measurements are suggestions as tartares vary to personal taste Add enough oil to moisten dish but be careful not to oversaturate

4 Top tartare with raw egg yolk and freshly grated horseradish

5 Serve with anything you can pick it up with such as crostini crackers fresh bread fresh heirloom tomato or crisp lettuce

ldquoI canrsquot emphasize enough the importance of respecting your tools by keeping them clean and properly functioning to avoid safety issues You simply canrsquot do your best without your equipment at its bestrdquo

ldquoA sharp knife is key when dicing raw meat like in my recipe belowrdquo he continues ldquoKeep in mind that itrsquos not firm like an onion or a stick of celery Meat shifts and moves as you prepare it so itrsquos important to slow down and take your time when preparing a dish like tartarerdquo

Chef Jorel Zielke

Chef Kai Salimaumlki

15

Robyn is a public relations professional and occasional writer with a passion for food and beverages Despite city hopping from her home in Calgary to Anchorage AK you can still find her on Twitter robynalana

Braised Brisket with Carrot Puree and Napa Cabbage Serves 4

900 ndash 1125 g brisket5 carrots peeled and sliced 12-16 baby potatoes 1 head of Napa cabbage julienned5 parsnips peeled and sliced 2 tomatoes quartered2 yellow onions quartered1 yellow onion thinly sliced6 sprigs of thyme4 sprigs of rosemary 6 whole cloves of garlic3-4 Tbs butter1 Tbs black peppercornsCanola oil4 cups (1 L) beef stock or water1 cup (240 mL) of milkHoney to tasteSalt and pepper 1 Season brisket liberally with salt and pepper (you can braise whole or cut it into smaller chunks)

2 In a large sauteacute pan heat canola oil until it has reached its smoking point Sear the meat on all sides until golden brown and caramelized

3 Remove from pan and place in a large ovenproof baking dish covering with beef stock (or water) Add peppercorns two sprigs of rosemary 4 sprigs of thyme whole garlic tomatoes and the quartered onions

4 Cover with tin foil and braise for approximately for 3-3frac12 hours at 325ordm F or until fork tender

5 Remove from the braising juices spoon off any excess fat and strain juices into a saucepot reduce on a medium heat until a nice thick sauce has formed

6 For carrot puree add two tablespoons of butter in a heavy bottomed saucepan and sauteacute sliced onion and diced carrots together over medium heat Yoursquore not looking to brown the vegetables but rather simmer in the butter

7 After 10 minutes cover the mixture with milk add 2 sprigs of thyme and season with salt Simmer until soft and tender

8 Strain the carrots and reserve the milk throw out the thyme sprigs Place the carrots and onions in a blender and slowly add the milk until a nice puree is achieved check seasoning and thickness and adjust if necessary Set aside 9 Sauteacute julienned cabbage in a tablespoon of butter season with salt and add 2 tablespoons of water Reduce heat and cook for 5 minutes stirring frequently

ldquoI recommend proper love attention and care to ensure you keep this tool functioning for a

very long timerdquo

10 Toss sliced carrots and parsnips with honey chopped rosemary and thyme season with salt and pepper and roast in the oven for an hour at 325ordm F or until tender 11 Boil the baby potatoes in heavily salted water until fork tender

12 To serve set up 4 plates and spoon carrot puree on the bottom of the plate in a circle Arrange potatoes carrots and parsnips around the plate place Napa cabbage in the middle and place brisket on top Spoon the reduced braising liquid over the meat

16

As Nemeth chats with customers other vendors and friends who stop by her enthusiastic greetings and joyous laughter are hard to ignore mdash this is a woman who clearly likes people In fact she loves them Warm hearty and full of surprises the words used to describe Nemethrsquos personality can just as easily be used to describe her soup

The Primal Soup Co is a fairly new entity mdash the frozen containers of soup with flavours like Mango Butternut Squash Spinach Artichoke and Feta and Thai Coconut Chicken first showed up at the Market on MacLeod (then the

Going To MarketPrimal Soup Company Finds Its Homeby ELIZABETH CHORNEY-BOOTH photography by INGRID KUENZEL

If you happen to spy Margaret Nemeth at one of her Primal Soup Company booths at the Crossroads Market or the Market on MacLeod yoursquoll immediately see that the energetic atmosphere of a Farmersrsquo Market suits her

Kingsland Farmersrsquo Market) in 2011 mdash but Nemeth is not new to the food and beverage game

Long-time Calgarians may recognize the Primal name and the taste of Nemethrsquos homemade soups from the now defunct Primal Grounds Cappuccino Bar and Eatery in Killarney which Nemeth owned and ran from 1996 through to 2010

Nemeth opened that business after a career in oil and gas and the stand-alone cafeacute was a solid success for her Not only did it serve up great coffee Nemeth quickly made a name for herself with her homemade soup creations All homemade and gluten-free (due to Nemethrsquos own dietary restrictions) Primal Grounds was catering to people with gluten intolerances long before it became fashionable

ldquoWe were pioneers and it was so much funrdquo Nemeth says ldquoThere were lots of ups and downs but it was a good liferdquo

ldquoWhen yoursquore in a market you have to give people reasons to stoprdquo

Margaret Nemeth

17

Nemeth sold the cafeacute when a real estate developer made her an offer she couldnrsquot refuse but she still felt the urge to be around people and feed them So she set up shop in the markets - first the Market on MacLeod and then in January of 2015 she opened a stall in the rebranded Crossroads Market

Elizabeth Chorney-Booth is a Calgary-based writer and co-founderco-editor of RollingSpooncom and Wapawekkacom She enjoys exploring the connection between music and food through interviews with musicians and chefs

Primal Soup also sells lunch items like gourmet macaroni and cheese sandwiches and homemade pies and pastries so that market wanderers can stop by the stall and grab a full lunch while perusing the soup cooler for something to take home for a future meal

ldquoWhen yoursquore in a market you have to give people reasons to stoprdquo Nemeth says ldquoSo we offer things to go with the soup which also gives them ideas for what they can do at home Or sometimes theyrsquoll come for a sandwich and then theyrsquoll look at the soups You have to give people reasons to be in this spacerdquo

ldquoWe were pioneers and it was so much funrdquo

Whatever Nemeth is doing it seems to be working Between the two farmersrsquo markets and specialty retailers like the Market on 17th Sunnyside Market and SPUD delivery boxes Primal Soup Co sells over 1000 containers of soup every week Nemeth develops the recipes herself but has hired a full-time chef to keep up with the demand Personality and strategic stall locations in busy farmersrsquo markets alone isnrsquot enough to move that kind of volume of soup mdash while Nemeth has made smart business decisions over the course of Primalrsquos various incarnations the key to her success really lies in the product itself Everything is made from scratch without the aid of pre-bought soup bases and Nemeth uses seasonal ingredients (only 20 to 30 of her 50 soup varieties are ever available at any given time) supporting her neighbours at the markets when possible Her meat stocks are built from organic chicken bones Wintersrsquo turkey carcasses and duck bones from fellow market vendor Green Eggs and Ham to build a rich and delicious broth ldquoI layer my soupsrdquo Nemeth says ldquoI donrsquot just throw everything in the pot together And there has to be a twist in every one There has to be something

that you donrsquot expect mdash a surprise in every boxrdquo

To bring things full circle Nemeth has a new venture that just opened kitty corner to her Primal Soup stall in the Crossroads Market a beautiful and shiny new Primal Grounds coffee location With a long counter for people to sit at for as long as they like (Nemeth jokes that itrsquos the perfect place for bored spouses to sit while their partners shop the market) itrsquos an updated nod to what got Primal Soup started in the first place

And itrsquos also a testament to Nemethrsquos dedication to market life mdash the lack of control she has over her own hours and some other aspects arenrsquot perfect but the busyness the proximity to like-minded vendors and most of all the people she gets to interact with on a constant basis has put Nemeth exactly where she belongs ldquoYoursquore only as strong as the market is collectivelyrdquo she says ldquoItrsquos different than being a restaurant but I have to say itrsquos the funnest thing Irsquove ever donerdquo

ldquoThere has to be something that you donrsquot

expect mdash a surprise in every boxrdquo

18

Soup Kitchenstory and photography by DAN CLAPSON

The fresh hang-up-your-winter-jacket feeling is finally in the air ndash and that my friends is a wonderful thing Gone are the days where wersquove looked forward to spooning into a big bowl of creamy soup or sitting down to some chicken noodle soup to help shake off the winter sniffles These days Irsquom more concerned with light and bright flavours and less calorie-ridden meals

so I wonrsquot look completely undesirable in a swimsuit come June

Here are two great recipes that just happen to be vegan but are bursting with flavour

Serves 5 Total cook time 35 minutes

6 cups (15 L) vegetable broth1 cup (240 mL) white wine1 cup (240 mL) water2 Tbs (30 mL) tomato paste2 cups dry green lentils1 red onion halved and thinly sliced1 small fennel bulb halved and thinly sliced2 tsp (10 mL) maple syrup1 tsp dried oreganofrac12 tsp ground turmericfrac12 tsp chili flakesfrac12 tsp ground cinnamon1 pinch nutmeg2 cups thinly sliced red Swiss chardTo taste salt and pepper

1 Place broth wine water and tomato paste in a large pot and bring to a simmer on medium-high heat Add lentils and cook for 15 minutes

2 Add onion fennel maple syrup and spices and continue to cook for 15 minutes

Spiced Green Lentil and Chard Soup

3 Add Swiss chard and cook until leaves are tender about 2-3 minutes Season to taste with salt and pepper and serve

Dan Clapson is a freelance food writer and columnist in Calgary When hersquos not writing about Canadarsquos amazing culinary scene he is likely listening to 80s rock or 90s boy bands Follow him on twitter dansgoodside

Spinach and Cashew Soup with Poblano and Scallion Salsa

Serves 4 Total cook time 30 minutes not including cashew soak time

Soup1frac12 cups roasted cashews2 cups (500 mL) water4 cups (1 L) vegetable broth4 cups cooked spinach1 Tbs (15 mL) apple cider vinegar1 Tbs (15 mL) maple syrupfrac12 tsp cayenne peppersalt and pepper to tastecashew butter for garnish optional

1 Place cashews and water in a container cover and let sit on counter overnight

2 Combine cashews water and remaining soup ingredients in a blender and pureacutee until very smooth

3 Pour contents of blender through a fine mesh strainer into a medium pot Bring to a simmer on medium-high heat and cook for 15 minutes Season to taste with salt and pepper and keep warm on stove until ready to serve

4 Place a couple of spoonfuls of the salsa into each bowl and ladle soup around it Add a couple of dollops of cashew butter for a little extra richness

Salsa1 large poblano pepper halved and seeds removed1 bunch scallions2 Tbs (30 mL) canola oil2 Tbs fresh mint roughly chopped1 tsp (5 mL) lemon juicefrac12 tsp cane sugarfrac12 tsp chili flakessalt and pepper to taste

1 Preheat oven to 400ordm F

2 Place poblano halves and scallions on a baking sheet drizzle with oil and roast until slightly charred about 15-18 minutes

3 Remove from oven allow to cool slightly then give them a rough chop

4 Add to a bowl with remaining ingredients and toss to combine Season liberally with salt and pepper

20

Photograph courtesy California Wine Institute

Ever since Napa Valley cabernet sauvignons and chardonnays bested their more historic counterparts from Bordeaux and Burgundy in the now-famous Judgment of Paris tasting in 1976 California and its flagship region have carried the torch for the bold dense fruity lushly oaked wines that brought them worldwide fame

Forty years later this sun-drenched style of wines remains both unapologetically enjoyable and wildly popular and Napa is on the bucket list of any devoted wine tourist But as tastes and trends start to evolve away from a focus on power and concentration towards greater elegance and food-friendliness winemakers in California are again taking to the frontier gravitating towards the statersquos physical and climatic extremes to explore new boundaries of flavour and complexity Californiarsquos cooler corners

California Coolby PETER VETSCH

California is a land of frontiers dangling on the edge of the Pacific home of the Gold Rush and epicentre of the New Worldrsquos insurgence onto the global wine scene

are fast becoming its second face in the world of wine

Sonoma County north of San Francisco and just west of Napa is probably Californiarsquos second best-known region almost equally recognized for its cabernets chardonnays and zinfandels The largest subregion in the county taking up almost a third of its total area is the western Sonoma Coast too expansive at 500000 acres to have a distinct identity

However the western border of this appellation a razorrsquos edge straddling the ocean locally known as the ldquotruerdquo Sonoma Coast showcases the regionrsquos true character - extreme viticulture wet cool and always windy at elevations up to 2000 feet balanced on the San Andreas Fault with many vines growing above the fog line and constantly exposed to the throes of the Pacific Pinot noir takes on a unique expression here on low-yielding vines in the cool above the rest of Sonoma offering both remarkable purity of fruit and astonishing acidity and structure

Pinot is also predominant in the relatively new Santa Rita Hills subregion of the Santa Ynez Valley located an hour and a half northwest of Los Angeles and similarly perched right alongside the ocean The maritime influence dominates the microclimate and counteracts the California sun with fog and cool breezes to the point where this coastal spot becomes a near ideal substitute for chilly Burgundy Here the core Burgundian varietals of pinot noir and chardonnay thrive in a particularly striking edgy way

Santa Ynez is the only wine region in the western hemisphere where the arearsquos defining mountain range runs east-west instead of north-south creating a sort of maritime wind tunnel that sucks cold Pacific air eastward This leads to some of the largest diurnal (day to night) temperature shifts in North America and allows inland grapes ripening in the scorching daytime heat to recharge and maintain acidity at night This special geological feature allows a wide range of reds in Santa Ynez to be juicy but still structured bold yet balanced from cabernet and merlot to syrah and grenache

Halfway between the Sonoma Coast to the north and the Santa Rita Hills to the south along yet another coastline

California can comfortably both provide continuity

and defy stereotype

Wine Picks

Peter is a local lawyer by day and wine writer by night maintaining his own wine blog at popandpourca He is always on the lookout for the next way to experience wine and the next good bottle to try

A LITTLE SIBLING RIVALRY NEVER HURT ANYBODY

FOUR SETTINGS ONE PHILOSOPHY crmrcom338 - 17th Avenue SW

c i l a n t ro

747 Lake Bonavista Dr SE113 - 8th Avenue SW 340 - 17th Avenue SW

Sequoia Grove 2012 Cabernet Sauvignon (Napa Valley)Textbook cabernet from Naparsquos heart of Rutherford with deep black fruit mint and cedarhellip and a survivable price tag CSPC +740382 $56

Hartford Court Landrsquos Edge Vineyard Pinot Noir (Sonoma Coast)The ferocity of the Sonoma Coast somehow creates the picture of elegance in this juicy yet delicate pinot CSPC +717210 $60

Domaine de la Cote 2013 Pinot Noir (Sta Rita Hills) Seriously pushes the boundaries picked almost insanely early for low-alcohol herbal pomegranate and rhubarb acidic tension and energy CSPC +761893 $58

Alice May Crosswinds Syrah (Santa Ynez Valley) A syrahviognier Cote Rotie-style co-ferment that matches Cali ripeness with surprising verve and delicacy CSPC +761131 $28

Ridge 2013 Geyserville (Santa Cruz Mountains)This will change your expectations of zinfandel A zin-heavy field blend it combines the best of its mountain altitude and the California sun CSPC +426379 $55

just south of San Jose the wineries of the Santa Cruz Mountains prove again that those seeking to make modern moderate wines in California head both west and up The highest vineyards in Santa Cruz despite being just miles from the ocean are at 2600 feet this significant altitude and the cool Pacific climate results in chiseled wines with controlled ripeness and serious staying power

The region is both expansive and miniscule with only 1500 of its 480000 acres currently planted to grapes and its very-California plantings (cabernet chardonnay pinot noir zinfandel and merlot) all take on an Old World character and rusticity from its rugged terrain and stony mineral-laden soils Despite the challenges associated with growing grapes on a cool rock face Santa Cruz is a state leader in sustainable growing practices

The friendly sunny face of California wine is surely here to stay but Santa Cruz Santa Ynez and the Sonoma Coast are permanent proof that the state is readily capable of more than one expression With its range of climate and terrain California can comfortably both provide continuity and defy stereotype

22

En GardeA Beginnerrsquos Guide To Knives And Their Usesby ANNA BROOKS

Itrsquos difficult to imagine that sharp little number thatrsquos slicing away to the rhythm of your favourite cooking music (or to the beating of child-size fists hungry for dinner) was more often used for combat not chopping carrots

Despite King Louis XIVrsquos decree that the tips of knives be ground down to reduce violence in the mid-1600s kitchen knives still (for quite pointed reasons) make popular murder weapons

But we wonrsquot get into grisly stories of guts and gore here Whether yoursquore a chef extraordinaire or the person whose knife knowledge goes as far as cutting

vegetables with a steak knife there are some things everyone should know about knives

The first major thing we must insist upon is putting down that expensive 14-piece knife set As most knife experts can attest to three main knives can cover almost all the work that a layman cook needs to do in the kitchen

23

Three main knives can cover almost all the work that a layman cook needs

to do in the kitchen

Chefrsquos Knife Your standard knife for mincing and slicing vegetables and meat a chefrsquos knife is typically 20-25 cm long but can range all the way up to 36 cm

Luke Pickett from Knifewear is a sight to see wielding some wickedly sharp

handcrafted Japanese models but despite their carnivorous look Pickett said therersquos really nothing to fear

ldquoThere are a lot of people who are scared of really large knivesrdquo Pickett said ldquoBut having good quality kitchen equipment will make your life easierrdquo

For beginners a standard 20 cm chefrsquos knife (although Pickett said blade length is purely based on personal preference) is best to start with but a Japanese Santoku knife mdash an elegant slightly smaller version of a chefrsquos knife mdash will certainly get the job er meal done

Paring KnifeOn the other side of the knife spectrum is the pocket-sized paring knife (note carrying knives in pockets not recommended)

Regan Johnson assistant manager at The Cookbook Co said besides what the individual using a steak knife to cut everything might think the small intricate work required of a paring knife (such as peeling and trimming) should not be done on a cutting board

ldquoParing is anything you can be doing in the air mdash yoursquore not ever supposed to use a paring knife on a boardrdquo she explained

Johnson added that for someone like herself who does almost as much blade-wielding as a samurai she also recommends a utility knife

which is a hybrid of a chefrsquos knife and a paring knife

ldquoI reach for my utility knife a lotrdquo she said ldquoItrsquos got that shape of a paring knife but is longer Itrsquos just for those things in between that you donrsquot need your giant chefrsquos knife forrdquo

Bread KnifeThe last of the big three is of course a bread knife Have you ever tried to cut a loaf of bread with a straight blade Not so easy (or safe) a task

Itrsquos sometimes difficult to do but no matter the type of knife yoursquore using itrsquos important to try and slice as opposed to chopping or sawing It

is quite tempting (and often seems easier) to saw away at the crispy crust of a floured loaf of sourdough but Knifewearrsquos Pickett said sawing can

be a slippery slope to your bread knifersquos grave

ldquoIf you slice you can use the entire blade and itrsquos a lot sharper along the edgerdquo he explained ldquoItrsquos important to get a good bread knife because you canrsquot sharpen them like you can any other sort of kniferdquo

The Big Three

24

Having good quality kitchen equipment will

make your life easier

Anna Brooks is an award-winning journalist from Calgary Alberta She has worked internationally in Thailand and Africa and has been published in Metro BeatRoute Magazine and the Calgary Journal She also enjoys animal rights fantasy fiction and whiskey sours

Tips and TricksOf course you can adorn your kitchen with the countless others belonging to the knife family mdash cleavers carvers boning knives cheese knives etc mdash but if yoursquore not planning on hacking through solid bone anytime soon you probably donrsquot need to spend $200 on a meat cleaver

But there are some other knife-related implements that are important to have in your kitchen

First off a proper cutting board While plastic cutting boards are versatile and can be chucked in the dishwasher wood is really the best way to go Cutting boards are the quickest way to ruin a knife so steer clear of fancy-looking glass or granite boards mdash they are the antagonists of our story

Itrsquos also not a bad idea to have a knife honer on hand As a reminder (or for

those who had no idea what that random rod in the kitchen was used for) honers are for honing not sharpening

ldquoWith use the metal fibres in a knife edge can get bent to one side or another All yoursquore doing with honing is straightening those fibres back outrdquo Johnson from The Cookbook Co explained ldquoSharpening means yoursquore actually removing material and grinding the metal down to a finer edgerdquo

Johnson added that while you can sharpen at home she always recommends getting your knives sharpened professionally at least once a year depending on how much theyare used

Before you go back to making your lazy-day grilled cheese sandwich or that complex stew yoursquove spent hours on we just want to remind you of whatrsquos called ldquothe pinch griprdquo

Not to sound snobbish but grabbing a knife by the handle and hacking away is poor form Use your thumb and index finger to grasp the blade and then wrap your remaining fingers under the bolster of the knife Shape your other hand into a claw to protect your fingertips from accidentally getting lopped off firmly grasp the object to be cut and slice away

If this knowledge was present in the 17th century perhaps old King Louis XIV would be tipping his crown to more cooks not kitchen knife combatants

25

Times Are A Changing Unexpected Take-Outs

by LINDA GARSON and DIANA NG photography by INGRID KUENZEL

Therersquos no denying that many of our cityrsquos restaurants are feeling the effects of the current economic downturn fewer people working downtown ndash indeed fewer people working altogether and so looking to save money by eating out less means many bricks and mortar restaurants are having to get creative with ways to fully utilise their kitchens and staff

High rents exacerbate the situation so itrsquos time for Calgary restaurateurs to think outside the box and proving to be the innovative entrepreneurs that wersquore known for many are diversifying their offerings to include take-out options both raw and cooked

Catch amp The Oyster Bar launched their ldquoBuy Catchrdquo program where you can pick up fresh Ocean Wise seafood to take home and cook (complete with recipes) along with house-made clam chowder and sauces nearly two years ago There are big savings to be had over dining in with no costs for linen or staff and no expectation to tip

Here are four Calgary eateries also getting clever with take-out

programs that are not widely publicised - and may

open a few eyes

26

Centini Restaurant

Itrsquos not a cookie cutter program but the magic of Centinirsquos take-out is that you can ask the kitchen for ideas of what you should have for dinner People even text the servers for suggestions and to order Loyal customers mostly busy businessmen were asking if they catered but without the staff for such a service Centini started offering to prepare dishes for them to cook themselves

Now you can get your favourite restaurant dishes from rack of lamb with red wine demi-glace AAA Alberta beef tenderloin with Gorgonzola pan sauce and sea bass with ginger cream sauce ready to cook at home ldquoWersquore not going to open a bricks and mortar restaurant down south but our food is going thererdquo says Chevonne Centini Theyrsquore seeing pick-ups such as for people stuck at home with a new baby and even 40 people for a funeral

Boxwood

Itrsquos hard to believe that the quality of food coming from the sister restaurant to River Cafe can be had at home and we are not talking about leftovers When

People take home uncooked homemade pasta with sauce separately and even bread dough and often freeze it to cook later or pick up on a Friday evening so everything is prepared ready for Saturday dinner When buying from a restaurant yoursquore getting top quality perfectly trimmed meat everything is done for you - therersquos no shopping

around and even the parsley is chopped And as everything is custom-made all allergies are catered for too

Centini gets fish delivered once or twice every day and it may come as a surprise but with a chef garde manger that spent 15 years in Japan they have customers coming just to take out sushi

you go home to an empty fridge it feels like the only options you have are fast food or pizza Not so

Boxwoodrsquos fresh and seasonal fare is also available to take home While you wonrsquot

be able to enjoy the quaint atmosphere of the restaurant you can order anything on the menu for take out with its special offering being the whole rotisserie free-range chicken which serves two to four people for $40

Many bricks and mortar restaurants are

having to get creative with ways to fully utilise their

kitchens and staff

You will need to call a few hours ahead (the website states before 200 pm) for enough notice for the chicken but for the rest of the selection like its soups and sandwiches you can simply look up the menu online and call to place an order For a perfect night in may we suggest starting with its bison tartare then moving onto the porchetta and another main before finishing off the meal with a slice of pie

27

Gaucho

For most people the elaborate setup of Brazilian barbecue is one of its biggest attractions You may not know this and while you may not be able to take home the lively decor of Gaucho you can actually take the meal home

The spit packed tightly with freshly roasted meats the sign at the table that signals yoursquore ready for more and the roasted and caramelized pineapple that tops off the meal all contribute to the atmosphere but if all you want are the meats and sides for a hefty dinner you can certainly order the meal as a take-out

Order any of the four options (top sirloin pork loin chicken wings or mild sausage) and add three sides from the list of eight which includes a variety of salads black bean stew and rice And because you canrsquot just have one kind of meat when it comes to Brazilian barbecue you can choose additional

Safari Grill

The marinated thinly sliced BBQ short beef ribs at Safari Grill are already a must-have for those in the know but we suspect even regulars will be surprised to discover that you can pick

up uncooked ribs with your choice of seven marinades to take home and BBQ yourself

With none of the associated costs of dining in $65 buys you enough ribs for 10 people and customers actually drive

meats for $4 each Finally choose the sauce yoursquod like to accompany your meal Orders for over five people will come in a big white box and individual

orders come will in regular take-out containers For big parties do call a few hours ahead All you need to make at home is the caipirinha

from Saskatchewan to take away 10-15 lb bags of these uncooked marinated ribs Some people call and ask for them to be marinated and frozen in 5 lb bags to enjoy later as just 5-7 minutes each side on a high flame has the raw ribs ready to eat

And itrsquos not only ribs that people BBQ at home Mishkaki are skewers of marinated chicken beef and prawns and for as little as $3 each you can have a very inexpensive BBQ feast Marinated raw lamb chops are also available or ask for Samaki - a marinated whole tilapia that comes with a basting sauce to brush on You can even get uncooked samosas to cook in your oven at home

All Safari Grillrsquos regular menu can be ordered for take-out but there is no published price list for uncooked dishes so people call to order and ask - but when yoursquore picking up look out for the new jars of house-made mango and lemon pickles

28

Step By Step Go Nuts With Homemade Nutella And Waffles story and photography by NATALIE FINDLAY

There are many nutritional benefits packed into these small filberts They are rich in dietary fibre packed with folate an excellent source of vitamin E and contain mono-unsaturated fatty acids that

can help lower bad cholesterol and raise good cholesterol By making your own Nutella at home you can control the amount of sugar that is added making this delicious spread basicallyhellip a health food

Hazelnuts have a tried and true following for taking the lead role in the chocolate spread Nutella This long-standing love affair has lasted simply because they add a distinct but subtle flavour to the chocolate Truly a match that is better together than apart

These delicious and super-easy waffles make a great base for your homemade Nutella With the addition of ground hazelnuts to the batter you can deepen the hazelnut flavour and pack in more health benefits

Waffles with raspberries and white chocolate spread

29

Natalie is a freelance writer photographer and pastry chef A graduate of Cordon Bleursquos pastry program she manages her own business too to create custom-made cakes

Using the same waffle recipe from above and switching out the mashed banana and adding frac12 a medium orange ndash juice and zest ndash to the batter you have a delicious orange waffle that will highlight the white chocolate hazelnut spread recipe below

Homemade White Chocolate Hazelnut Spread Makes 1frac12 cups

1frac12 cups (200 g) whole hazelnutsfrac12 cup (70 g) icing sugar2 Tbs (30 mL) canola oil1 tsp (5 mL) vanilla extract1 cup (250g) white chocolate

Follow directions for Homemade Nutella and add the melted white chocolate at the end Pulse to combine

Macerated Raspberries with Orange Serves 6

250 g fresh raspberriesfrac12 medium orange zest and juice1 Tbs icing sugarfrac12 tsp vanilla extract

Add all ingredients into a medium bowl and stir to combine Let sit for about 1 hour

Serve your warm waffles topped with your white chocolate homemade hazelnut spread macerated berries and a dollop of whipped cream or ice cream

Note Homemade Nutella has more texture than store bought and will last around 1 month in the fridge Waffles can be made ahead and frozen Thaw and reheat in the waffle maker or the oven

Banana Fruit compoteMakes enough for 6

3 ripe bananas peeled sliced into rounds2 Tbs (30 g) butter2 Tbs (30 g) brown sugar1frac12 tsp (8 mL) vanilla extract1frac12 tsp (8 mL) bourbon

1 Add butter and sugar to a sauteacute pan over medium heat As they melt stir to combine

2 Add vanilla and bourbon than add sliced bananas and sauteacute until warmed through

Serve your warm waffles topped with your homemade hazelnut spread sauteacuteed bananas and a dollop of whipped cream or ice cream

Homemade Nutella Makes 1frac12 cups

1frac12 cups (200 g) whole hazelnutsfrac34 cup (100g) icing sugar3 Tbs (45 mL) canola oilfrac14 cup (30 g) cocoa powder1 tsp (5 mL) vanilla extract

1 Toast hazelnuts on a baking pan in a preheated 350ordm F oven for 10 - 15 minutes Keep an eye on them to make sure they donrsquot start to burn Remove from oven and let cool to the touch

2 Wrap the nuts in a kitchen towel and rub together to remove the skins This should remove most of the skins

3 Place skinless hazelnuts in a food processor on high Process the nuts until they form a smooth paste and the oils start to separate (about 5 minutes) scraping the bowl often

4 Add the icing sugar cocoa powder vanilla and canola oil to the food processor and process until fully incorporated scraping bowl of processor as needed (about 2 minutes)

Hazelnut Banana WafflesMakes 6

frac12 cup (80 g) all purpose flour1 tsp baking powderfrac12 tsp baking sodaPinch sea salt1 Tbs (15 g) icing sugar1 Tbs (10 g) ground hazelnuts6 grates whole nutmeg1 tsp ground cinnamonfrac12 cup (125 mL) buttermilk1 egg yolk2 Tbs (30 g) butter meltedfrac12 small banana peeled and mashed1 egg white

1 Sift together all dry ingredients (except the ground hazelnuts) in a medium bowl Add the ground hazelnuts and combine

2 Mash the half banana in a small bowl with a fork Add the egg buttermilk and melted butter

3 Whisk the egg white to stiff peaks

4 Whisk the wet ingredients into the dry and fold the egg white into the mixture

5 Follow the directions for your waffle pan to cook waffles for around 5 minutes or until cooked through

Note Remember to bring the waffle pan up to temperature in between each batch of waffles

Hazelnut Banana Waffles with Nutella

30

Citrus Beer Friendsby DAVID NUTTALL

This is when the taste andor aroma of a beer can remind the drinker of anything from an orange drink or lemonade to grapefruit soda There are several ways to achieve this character and these beers are becoming more and more popular every day

Hops provide the bitterness in beer and out of the literally hundreds of varieties a few impart citrus notes into the aroma and flavour Cascade and Citra are examples of two of the most popular hops used in several styles of beer most notably the American IPA or India Pale Ale Cascade hops have been around for over 40 years and it is the single most popular hop used by the American craft brewing industry It provides a floralspicy character often reminiscent of grapefruit

Citrarsquos name leaves no guessing as to its attributes A relative newcomer this cross breed of UK German and US hop varieties has been around for less than a decade but it is already an extremely popular hop for imparting

One of the great things about beer is its diversity It can come in a myriad of colours and also a wide variety of flavours citrus being one of the most distinct

Dave Nuttall has been in the liquor and event business forever He is a qualified beer judge and ownerpresident of Epicurean Calgary at epicureancalgarycom for ten years

citrus and tropical fruit characteristics to a beer

It has proven very versatile and appears in several beer styles from session ales to IPAs It has also become a favourite hop to use for dry-hopping (adding hops late into the boil) due to the exceptional aromas it produces For even more flavour and aroma craft brewers now commonly enhance these already citrusy IPAs with actual zest peel or juice from citrus fruits to create an IPAFruit Beer hybrid which sells especially well in summer months

Then there is the yeast and many varieties of yeast can produce citrusy esters The unfiltered hefeweizens brewed on both sides of the Atlantic quite often have a lemony flavour Sour beers also showcase the yeast often cultured from Belgian strains

These beers are tart and produce a gamut of flavours many with citrus qualities and some have added fruit - the easiest and most obvious way to create a citrusy beer The Belgians also add different kinds of oranges with spice additions to their wheat ales to create wit beers now emulated all over the world with different citrus (and other) fruits involved in the recipe We also canrsquot forget the radlers which are simply a lager beer mixed with 40-60 fruit juice - often grapefruit or lemonade

Whether itrsquos added fruit the yeast the hops or a combination of all of them citrusy beers are commonplace now Thanks to new hops like Citra and the increasing popularity of wits and sours we can expect this trend to continue

Here are a few local beers with hints of citrus All are also available on tap

Beer comes in a myriad of colours and flavours citrus being one of the

most distinct

Ribstone Creek Great White CombineThis tiny Edgerton Alberta brewery has been knocking it out of the park lately Named after the ubiquitous Alberta summer hailstorm the use of Belgian yeast sweet orange peel and coriander give this beer an orange flavour in the beginning When the four different hop additions kick in it changes more to a sweet lemony flavour This White IPA has a very tropical feel that makes you forget it was made in northern Alberta CSPC +774162 $16 6-pack cans

Wild Rose Cowbell Sour ales are the new Belle of the Ball at craft breweries Often using imported Belgian yeast strains they are tart tangy and wellhellip sour Calgaryrsquos Wild Rose has taken this flavour profile and added kaffir lime leaves This makes the beer more like a refreshing limeade and is less bitter than many of its other sour counterparts CSPC +778093 $17 6-pack bottles

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VENUEBMO CENTRE STAMPEDE PARK

TICKETS AVAILABLE AT ALBERTABEERFESTIVALSCOM

MAY 6-7 2016FRIDAY3-10 PM BEER GEEK VIP4-10 PM GENERAL ADMISSION

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save 15USE PROMO CODE

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Citradelic Single Hop IPA Big Rock BreweryWith breweries in two (soon to be three) provinces Big Rock now has multiple locations to develop new beers This is the first one from their Vancouver brewery and is full of lemongrapefruit flavours and tropical aromas This beer showcases the Citra hop fooling one to think that citrus has been added when itrsquos all thanks to the hop CSPC +778593 $15 6-pack bottles

Alley Kat Main SqueezeWhat started out as a summer seasonal has now become a mainstay of this Edmonton brewery A North American style wheat ale with a 50 wheat and 50 barley mix it has added grapefruit juice but tastes more along the lines of pink grapefruit rather than its more bitter cousin CSPC +733630 $17 6-pack bottles

32

story by RENEE KOHLMAN

Cheesecake is one of those classic desserts that almost everyone loves unless of course you have a dairy allergy then yoursquoll stay far far away from it While it may seem too complicated to make at home I assure you that itrsquos not

Spice it up cheesecake

Sure there are a few steps involved but the key thing to remember is to have your eggs and cream cheese at room temperature For the best crack-free cheesecake itrsquos best to bake it in a water bath It yields a light creamy texture and is well worth the effort Cheesecake always tastes better the next day so bake it the day before you want to serve it Now that wersquove got the basics down itrsquos time to have a little fun with the crust filling and toppings

The Base

The classic graham cracker crust is fine but every now and again itrsquos great to switch things up Try

ndash Grinding up ginger cookies They work especially well for a pumpkin cheesecake

ndash Chocolate cookie crumbs are fantastic for caramel peanut butter and raspberry cheesecakes

ndash Add finely chopped nuts oats or seeds to the cookie crumbs for added texture and taste

The Middle

Therersquos something to be said for a straight up vanilla or chocolate cheesecake but with some fun add-ins they could take your cheesecake to the next level of deliciousness Try

ndash Swirling tahini dulce de leche salted caramel or chocolate fudge sauce into a creamy vanilla filling

ndash Mix in chopped chocolate peanut butter cups to a chocolate filling

ndash Drop fresh berries (raspberries blueberries blackberries) on top of a vanilla filling

ndash Stir in chopped candied ginger dried cherries or cranberries chopped toasted nuts to the filling

ndash Swap some of the cream cheese with ricotta mascarpone cheese or even strained cottage cheese

ndash You can never go wrong with lemon zest in a vanilla cheesecake

Have a little fun with the crust filling

and toppings

33

Apple Crumble CheesecakeMakes about 12-14 servings Total cook and prep time 3 hours (plus overnight chilling)

I love apple crisp and I love cheesecake This recipe is a fine marriage of both and makes a more than acceptable breakfast The base is a crumble of oats and flour the middle is classic cheesecake and itrsquos topped with cinnamon apples and a buttery oat streusel

Crust 2 cups large flake oats1 cup all purpose flour cup packed brown sugarfrac34 cup butter meltedfrac12 tsp salt

Cheesecake Layer3 - 225 g packages cream cheese at room temperature cup granulated sugar1 tsp (5 mL) vanilla3 large eggs at room temperature cup (80 mL) whipping cream

Apple Layer2 apples peeled cored and sliced about 3-4 mm thick1 tsp ground cinnamonfrac12 tsp salt

Streusel Layer1 cup large flake oatsfrac12 cup all-purpose flourfrac12 cup brown sugarfrac12 cup butter softened1 tsp ground cinnamon

Preheat the oven to 375ordm F

1 Butter the bottom and sides of a 9-inch springform pan with sides that are at least 7 cm high Wrap the bottom of the pan in aluminum foil so it comes at least halfway up the sides

2 Combine the crust ingredients in a large bowl Press the crust evenly into the pan and place on a baking sheet Bake for 10 minutes Remove from oven and let it cool on a wire rack

3 Reduce heat to 325ordm F Put a kettle of water on to boil Have a large roasting pan close by

4 Using a stand mixer with a paddle attachment beat the cream cheese at medium speed for 4 minutes scraping down the sides once or twice until it is soft and creamy With the mixer still running add the sugar and beat for another 4 minutes scraping down the sides of the bowl at least twice Beat in the vanilla Add the eggs one at a time beating for 1 minute after each addition and scraping the bowl Reduce speed to low and add the whipping cream

5 Toss the sliced apples with the cinnamon and salt in a small bowl Combine all of the streusel ingredients in a medium bowl and mix well

6 Place the springform pan in the roasting pan Give the cheesecake batter a good stir and pour it on top of the crust Arrange the apples on top and sprinkle the streusel on top of the apples

7 Place in the oven on the middle rack and pour the hot water into the roasting pan so it comes halfway up the sides of the springform pan

8 Bake the cheesecake for 1frac12 hours Turn off the heat prop open the oven door and let the cheesecake hang inside for another hour

9 Carefully remove from the oven and take out the cheesecake from the hot water bath Remove the foil and let the cheesecake come to room temperature on a wire rack Cover the top lightly and refrigerate for at least 4 hours but overnight is best The next day remove the sides of the pan and serve the cake

Renee is a food writer and pastry chef living in beautiful Saskatoon Saskatchewan Her columns appear in The Saskatoon StarPhoenix and her desserts can be enjoyed at Riverside Country Club Also check out her blog wwwsweetsugarbeancom

The Toppings

Cheesecake with no fun toppings is like a salad with no dressing it just doesnrsquot reach its full flavour potential Try

ndash Salted caramel roasted strawberry sauce or warm chocolate sauce

ndash A rhubarbcardamom compote is divine on top of vanilla cheesecake kissed with a bit of lemon zest Cherry compote is divine with chocolate cheesecake

ndash Have a favourite jam Melt it down with a tiny bit of water and drizzle it on top of your favourite cheesecake

ndash Candied nuts and citrus rind chocolate shavings even crumbled cookies are a fun way to add texture to the cheesecake

ndash Never underestimate the power of fresh seasonal berries and a well-made cheesecakeMacerate them in a little sugar and minced mint or basil and they make a lovely topping Donrsquot forget the whipped cream

34

Think about that for a moment and let that sink in like a cherry in your drink

So how old is ice in bars Well thatrsquos a whole story on its own however the Old Fashioned has been talked about in one form or another since the beginning of the 19th Century The first appearance of this classic cocktail was in the Balance and Columbian Repository newspaper in 1806 as such ldquoA stimulating liquor composed of spirits of any kind sugar water and bittersrdquo

The Old FashionedAn Iconic Drink That Has Stood The Test Of Time

by BRICE PERESSINI

Sohelliphow old is the Old Fashioned The Old Fashioned is as old as ice in bars

When you follow these instructions and put this finely-crafted cocktail into your hand swirl around the ice gaze through the caramel-coloured liquid in the glass and contemplate all that has gone into it you can rest assured you are holding a drink that has delighted taste buds for generations The Old Fashioned however has not always been held in high regard There was a time not too long ago where this fine concoction was an unbalanced fruity watered-down pale imitation of itself More recently

there has been a renaissance involved with this invigorating intoxicant and you can and should expect a proper cocktail when it is ordered at a fine establishment

When this drink is properly prepared it should be in perfect balance (as any proper drink should be) The sweetness of the sugar should not cover the flavour of the bourbon and the bitters should add to not overpower the flavour of the whiskey When the Old Fashioned is well made it is as close to cocktail perfection as a sophisticated patron could expect

Befriend a bespoke barkeep at an upstanding establishment and you will be in trusted hands If you find yourself at home and wanting for a nightcap look no further than the Old Fashioned

Enjoy friends

Old Fashioned Recipe

2 oz Buffalo Trace Bourbon (or your personal favourite)4 dashes Angostura Aromatic Bitters1 raw sugar cube

Muddle the sugar and bitters together with a touch of warm water in a rocks glass Add the bourbon then add ice Stir and garnish with an orange peel and cherry (optional)

Brice is a competition cocktail bartender who plies his trade behind the wood at Chefbar Whisk(e)y is his poison Neat

35

Shoulder Season Wines

by JACLYN ADOMEIT

Wines For Cool Weather

Refreshing white wines match with sunny patios and hot days while bold tannic red wines earn their keep by a fireplace on a winter night Common sense But what about the shoulder season What if yoursquore eating sea bass on a rainy spring day Or sipping wine on a patio during an uncommonly warm April afternoon

Photograph courtesy Tom Firth

36

Wine not only pairs with food but with temperatures and seasons A bright sauvignon blanc can taste flat and acidic on a cold night at no fault of the wine or the drinker Some white wines are other-worldly at the vineyard tasting room in the summer but fall flat when you pull them out for dinner guests in the winter

The change in taste is likely due to a number of factors Anatomically it is your sinus cavities creating the change Higher atmospheric pressures allow your nose to pick out subtle aromas while lower pressures bring out a winersquos acidity and harsh tannins CO2 degasses from liquid at low pressure leaving wines dull and flat too

Serving temperature can greatly affect a winersquos aromatics white wines chilled to near-freezing have dull aromas (Tip allow the bottle a half hour on the counter before popping the cork This will allow the aromatics to warm up enhancing the flavour)

Lastly your own palate will be partial to different flavours depending on sun snow wind and sleet but as a rule of thumb higher alcohol white wines (approximately 13 percent or more) will warm the soul and pair best with cooler weather

Here are some wine selections to go for when it is not too hot and not too cold so you can choose a pairing thatrsquos just right

Fiano

Yoursquoll notice that many of the best white wines for cold weather are grown in hot places Hot climates mean a longer growing season more sugar which leads to higher alcohol and often more robust and tropical flavours All of this is true for fiano - seldom grown outside of Campania in southern Italy Fiano produces age-worthy wines which are rich nutty and delicious

Feudi Di San Gregorio 2014 Campania Fiano di Avellino Italy A beautiful floral bouquet with candied lemon followed by honey-coated hazelnuts on the palate Worth cellaring for a few seasons The perfect dance partner for poultry CSPC +708589 $33

Viognier

Viognier is a white varietal that is best consumed at slightly higher temperatures A chilly glass of viognier will leave you with acid maybe oak and not much else Allow it to warm and you may experience peach pear and toasted almond

Traditionally grown in the warm south of France viognier is often a higher alcohol white wine with rich tropical flavours The heat of the alcohol with tropical flavours and lower acid makes viognier the perfect wine to sip while watching a late spring snowfall

Paul Mas 2014 Languedoc-Roussillon Viognier France Brimming with apricot almond lemon and ripe peach Contains hints of warming oak Pair with something savoury baked brie or spinach-filled puff pastry CSPC + 740978 $17

Dry Roseacute

There is so much more to be had from roseacute than white zinfandel And no itrsquos not just a mix of red and white wine The best roseacute is made from red skinned grapes that only sit on their skins for up to a day and a half to borrow colour and flavour then are fermented and processed

Refined examples of roseacute wines are often dry and have deep aromas of red fruits mild tannins and are savoury instead of sweet The French and Spanish craft great examples of dry roseacutes that are either a single varietal or a blend of grapes such as mourvegravedre grenache syrah or tempranillo

Muga Roseacute 2014 Rioja Grenache Viura and Tempranillo Spain A tamed Rioja Orange blossom woven together with strawberry and a palate of cherry and savoury soft cheese Ideal for charcuterie CSPC + 710261 $16

Orange Wine

Never heard of orange wine A commercial demand for natural wines has fostered a resurgence in ancient wine making practices While roseacute wines are reds that have been produced using white wine making practices orange wines are created from white grapes submitted to maceration and allowed to sit on the skins before fermentation the same practice employed in red winemaking

Unlike any white you have tasted orange wines are full-bodied have mild tannins and deep flavours - the characteristics that allow red wines to bring warmth to cool nights A must try for any wine buff

Allow the bottle a half hour on the counter

before popping the cork

The Bicicleta wines are characterized by their fruity expression and for offering more than

the traditional strains a clear example of this range`s innovation style and creativity

Cono Sur Vineyards amp Winery ConoSurVineyards ConoSurWinesconosurcom

The brewhouse at Wild Rose

Jaclynrsquos first passion was winemaking Shersquos worked in vineyards cellars and restaurants Currently she is a writer who daylights as an environmental engineer She believes that a good life like a good wine is not complete without balance

Nichol 2013 Naramata Pinot Gris Canada A Canadian example of orange wine with backbone Flavours of caramel apple roast nuts orange rind and peach CSPC +504159 $31

Oaked chardonnay

In and out with popular palates oak and chardonnay have been partners for a long time Oak paired with chardonnay can bring out butter richness toasted vanilla tree fruit and in the best examples shimmering minerality That is because oak aging is often accompanied by a malolactic fermentation process that smooths out rigid acids into lactic acid - the acid found in milk

Chardonnay is a grape of many talents and encounters a great diversity of production styles It is oaked examples that pair best with pensive rainy days They are full-bodied warming and complex

Wente Morning Fog 2014 Livermore Valley (California) Chardonnay USA Half oak-aged and malolactic-fermented half crisp and fresh this chardonnay brings together green apple vanilla and toasted oak A friend to cream sauce and roast chicken CSPC +175430 $18

In a province of mutable weather let your wine choices be as varied as the ever changing winds Cheers and herersquos to refined full-bodied cool-weather wines

38

Once yoursquore done with your magazine cover shoot like we did this month or prepping for dinner and have all of those odds and ends just sitting on the cutting board - you know carrot ends onion skins tips of celery stalks you get the point - donrsquot toss lsquoem

Instead place them into a large ziploc bag and straight into the freezer After a couple of weeks yoursquoll likely have four full freezer bags of vegetable bits ready to be turned into broth and herersquos how you do it

Making a big batch of vegetable broth doesnrsquot always mean a trip to the grocery store All you need to do is save those scraps This is a handy trick I learned years ago courtesy of Bon Appetit

No-Waste Vegetable Broth

by DAN CLAPSON

Odds And Ends BrothYields 8 cups (2 L)

12 cups (3 L) water4 full ziploc bags of vegetable trimmings1 yellow onion quartered4 cloves garlicAromatics of choice (I usually toss a couple of rosemary and thyme sprigs in there)To taste Salt and pepper

1 Place all ingredients in a large pot and bring to a boil on medium-high heat

2 Reduce to medium heat and let simmer uncovered for 1frac12 hours

3 Strain season to taste with salt and pepper and use as desired

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40

Salentein 2012 Reserve Chardonnay Uco Valley Argentina

Very very enjoyable chardonnay blowing me away with complexity varietal character and fine balance between oak lees and fruit Toffee baked apple tangerine and a little almond on the nose lead into silkily textured wine in the mouth Top shelf chardonnay that might be great with lobster tails mussels or poultry Around $20 CSPC +779479

Rutini 2013 Cabernet Malbec Mendoza Argentina

An exceptionally well put together blend - if you want rich berry fruits lots of body but maybe not tons of varietal characters from the individual components Lifted and bright fruits make for a very enjoyable glass Simply perfect for your next barbecue a roast or just chilling out with friends and family $26-30 CSPC +776822

Vinecol 2014 Organic Malbec Mendoza Argentina Fair Trade organic and vegan along with a good price is it still good Piles of fresh fruits (think smashed raspberries) with plenty of spice and soft herb-leaf aromas There are plenty of malbec flavours on the palate too Good for any day of the week with just a little tension between fruit tannin and acid it might be best with pub style burgers pulled pork or sausages About $16 CSPC +755296

Argentina is so much more than malbec While such a noble grape has found its best home in the high altitude vineyards of Argentina there is a lot going on with other grapes as well

Making The Case For Argentina

by TOM FIRTH

This massive country nestled up against the Andes mountains has a range of growing conditions suited to a number of grapes From Salta in the north to Patagonia in the south plenty of interesting wines are available here - many reasonably priced and of excellent quality So yes there are some

malbecs on these pages but please do try some of the other grapes and blends coming from Argentina too

Be sure to crack open a bottle of malbec on ldquoWorld Malbec Dayrdquo April 17 - who knows it might be nice enough to barbecue too

Photograph courtesy Tom Firth

41

Manos Negras 2011 Stone Soil Select Mendoza Argentina Quite new to the market this is a pretty enjoyable version of Argentinarsquos flagship grape Loads of blue fruit and raspberries with spices galore and a little compost Rich flavours lead to a lengthy spicy finish Yes please Bring to a barbecue if you can $21 CSPC +630541

Zuccardi 2012 Zeta Mendoza Argentina

A malbec-cabernet sauvignon blend that is also a blend of two different Mendoza appellations La Consulta and Gualtallary Deep and abundant fruit aromas with liquorice root and a touch of blueberry preserves Excellent balance of flavours on the palate too with the right structure and tannin for aging if desired Enjoy with a prime rib or even meaty pasta dishes or game $50-52 CSPC +740270

Zuccardi 2012 ldquoEmmardquo Bonarda Mendoza Argentina

In my humble opinion one of the finest bonardas coming out of Argentina Notes of coffee bean and espresso complement cherry and blackberry fruits with healthy balanced tannins to stand up to the tart fruits Delicious for sure enjoy at your next barbecue $40 CSPC +758407

Luigi Bosca 2011 Cabernet-Malbec Mendoza Argentina

A wonderfully earthy and savoury blend with plenty of tobacco spice leather and yes lots of fruit too The earthy flavours work well with the big dark chocolate flavours and weighty tannins Drink now or through 2020 or so - with a steak naturally $22-24 CSPC +766010

Trivento 2013 Golden Reserve Malbec Lujan de Cuyo Argentina While there is a trend to see a lot of premium malbecs move away from oak presence this one is a bold smooth and delicious example that is seeing about a year of oak All those berry fruits plums and herb notes malbec is known for along with the smoothness that only oak brings Kick back relax maybe cook up some steaks - enjoy About $24 CSPC +711402

Trivento 2014 Malbec Reserve Mendoza Argentina Nearly unbeatable for good malbec at a great price itrsquos rich and chocolatey on the nose with big fruits and oak tones too Mild garrigue notes or dried herb flavours with plenty of fruit and tannins - still showing a fine sense of balance Enjoy with beef $14 CSPC +730714

Luigi Bosca 2011 De Sangre Mendoza Argentina A blend of cabernet sauvignon merlot and syrah that manages to pull out the best of each varietal Earthy and slightly smoky with good fruits and plenty of versatility Tannins are well-placed against the fruits with a long smooth finish Irsquove been a fan of this wine year after year Good to keep a couple on hand in the cellar About $29 CSPC +745106

Salentein 2012 Numina Gran Corte Uco Valley Argentina A malbec-dominated Bordeaux blend this stunner is all about ripe fruits cedar pepper cherries and plum with a little tealeaf and the right amount of tannins Very very well balanced and like any great wine think about some food to go with it Beef tenderloin slow cooked meats or maybe at your next asadohellip About $40 CSPC +764706

Colonia Las Liebres 2013 Bonarda Mendoza Argentina Bear with me here - a fine bonarda with plenty of earthy smoky aromas leading to rubber charred cherries and cocoa Some pretty prominent tannins to be found as well but wow does it all come together A wine that just begs for duck with cranberries or maybe some kebabshellip$20 CSPC +773381

42

Open That Bottleby LINDA GARSON photography by INGRID KUENZEL

ldquoIf you work in a place and yoursquore miserable I donrsquot know if there is a dollar amount that can be attached to that The work that yoursquore doing has to be rewarding and challengingrdquo says Karen KhoGrowing up in Niagara Falls in a Philippino SpanishChinese family Kho was surrounded by food and drinks with an open door policy that has had a huge influence on the person she is today - an

entertainer who likes to make people feel welcome ldquoMy parents wanted me to be a lawyer there was definitely an encouragement to use my voice for goodrdquo she explains ldquoAnd I still think I help people but in a different way a very social wayrdquo

Graduating Western University with a political science degree in 2000 Kho spent a year travelling and living in Australia before taking a leap of faith and moving to Calgary Here she studied wine with the International Sommeliers Guild and WSET but says her real education was a job she adored working in the wine trade at BIN 905 in tandem with running wine programs for CRMR restaurants It was only when the opportunity came to create the wine program at Vin Room six years later that Kho leapt at the challenge of a new idea for the city and spent four happy years there

Eventually she and her partner decided to stretch their wings and went to Vancouver where Kho embarked on a six-month culinary course at the Pacific Institute of Culinary Arts ticking off another box on her bucket list ldquoI wanted a greater understanding of technique in the kitchen and I wanted an understanding of what service on a very basic level would look like if I ever owned my own place and ever had to be the person who filled inrdquo she says ldquoI feel if I was ever in a place that needed someone to chop onions Irsquom your womanrdquo she laughs

A year later the pair came back with the idea of eventually opening their own business in Calgary ldquoThe support we get from this community is heartfelt and this is a city of opportunity People with the right concept are seeing a lot of great success itrsquos still our game planrdquo she says Meanwhile Kho applied only to Teatro where she is now Group Service Director

ldquoI wanted to work at a place that had a challenging wine program and had a level of service with high expectations and where professional service teams

applyrdquo she says ldquoItrsquos pretty romantic to work for a company that has been built on a foundation of service Successful businesses in the restaurant industry get the grand picture which is the moments that yoursquore creating for people and I like to be a part of thatrdquo she adds

So what bottle is Kho saving for a special occasion

Paying homage to her time at BIN 905 Kho explains ldquoI have a bottle of 1996 Chateau Mouton Rothschild which was given to me with some very kind words on my last day at BIN Irsquove always just appreciated my time there it was where I learned the vernacular of wine and itrsquos my first job where I really saw the benefits of serving people with intentionrdquo She continues ldquoI always see it thankfully as the stepping-stone to a broader wine profession and eventually to the position that I have now It was given to me by very close friends that Irsquom still friends with to this dayrdquo

And when is she planning to open the wine

ldquoWhen (partner) Dave and I open our own restaurantrdquo Kho says This isnrsquot something that something that will happen tomorrow but fortunately the wine will last until theyrsquore ready

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The largest tasting tour of California wines in CanadaAlso includes a silent auction of wines not available in Canada

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14 Ways to Spice Up Grilled Cheese | Beyond YYC Maui | Sunday Suppers

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RAISE A GLASS

TO WOMEN BEHIND THE BAR

AMAZING COCKTAILS TO MAKE AT HOME

For Foodies amp Beverage Lovers

10

A sure-fire favourite dish at Una Pizza + Wine Kale Caesar Salad is much requested It has all the elements of a perfect salad crunchy prosciutto and breadcrumbs and chewy kale leaves and egg for texture with grated cheese and a creamy plate-licking dressing to pull it all together Many thanks to Una Executive Chef Jen Pena for sharing it with us

Unarsquos Kale Caesar SaladServes 4

Salad2 Tbs (30 mL) olive oil plus more if needed4 thin slices prosciutto juliennedfrac12 cup panko breadcrumbsMaldon salt and black pepper2 bunches kale leaves only julienned1 cup grated Pecorino cheese2 hard boiled eggs peeled and halved (optional)

Caesar Dressing1 clove garlic4 anchovy fillets1 Tbs (15 mL) Dijon mustardZest and juice of 1 lemonfrac12 cup (120 mL) olive oil

1 Using a fork crush garlic and anchovies against the inside of a large bowl Add mustard lemon juice zest and olive oil and whisk until well emulsified Pour the dressing into a glass jar and set aside

2 Line a plate with paper towels Heat olive oil in a medium frying pan on high Add prosciutto and pan-fry until crispy about 5 minutes Transfer to the paper towel-lined plate and set aside

3 Reduce the heat to low and add panko crumbs to the pan adding a little oil if required Toast until golden about 2 minutes Scrape the panko into a small bowl season to taste with salt and set aside

4 Place kale in a large bowl pour in the dressing and toss well Season with salt and black pepper Transfer to a serving

bowl and top with grated Pecorino cheese toasted panko and crispy prosciutto Serve with the boiled eggs if desired

If therersquos a dish in a restaurant that yoursquod love to know how to make let us know at culinairemagazinecacontact-us and wersquoll do our very best to track it down for you

Off The Menu

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Registration Deadline July 1 | Judging Takes Place July 18-19-20

12

Tricks Chefs Tipsstory by ROBYN MACLEAN photography by INGRID KUENZEL Knives

The most important tool in any kitchen without a doubt is a good knife As Iron Chef Masahari Morimoto would say ldquoa kitchen without a knife is not a kitchenrdquo

I couldnrsquot agree more

For professional cooks knives are practically an extension of their hands and probably better cared for But a quality knife is just as essential for home cooks If yoursquore even slightly inclined to cook at home at the very least you should own a classic 20 cm chefrsquos knife ndash the go-to knife for the brunt of daily kitchen tasks

But itrsquos certainly not the only knife you should have in your arsenal Slicing dicing filleting butchering and julienning become a whole lot easier when you use the right knife for the job and these three Calgary chefs share their favourite model and a recipe to help point you in the right direction

䈀甀礀 琀栀攀 琀漀瀀 栀愀氀昀 漀昀 愀渀礀 戀漀琀琀氀攀 漀昀 眀椀渀攀 戀攀琀眀攀攀渀 瀀洀ⴀ㘀瀀洀 愀渀搀 最攀琀 琀栀攀 戀漀琀琀漀洀 琀栀攀 昀甀渀 栀愀氀昀⤀ 昀漀爀 䘀刀䔀䔀

䘀刀

䔀䔀

䴀伀一䐀䄀夀 ⴀ 䘀刀䤀䐀䄀夀 瀀洀 ⴀ㘀瀀洀

瀀爀椀挀攀 戀漀琀琀氀攀猀 漀昀 眀椀渀攀㔀 戀漀琀琀氀攀猀 漀昀 戀攀攀爀㔀 栀椀最栀戀愀氀氀猀

䠀䄀䰀䘀 䘀刀䔀䔀 圀䤀一䔀

㔀 㔀 Ⰰ 㠀 䄀 瘀 攀 匀 圀 Ⰰ 䌀 愀 氀 最 愀 爀 礀 Ⰰ 䄀 䈀 吀 倀 䜀

Pacific Albacore Tuna CrudoServes 4

335 g Pacific albacore tuna 1 honey crisp or granny smith apple 4 cloves of garlic thinly sliced frac12 tsp ground espelette chili frac14 cup (60 mL) sunflower oil frac14 cup (60 mL) flax oil 1 Tbs lightly toasted flax seed 8 pickled string beans (keep some pickling liquid)4 slices of prosciutto 1 Tbs (1 mL) rice vinegar Pea shoots Good quality finishing salt like fleur de sel

1 Slice garlic as thinly as possible and combine with sunflower oil in a small saucepan Heat slowly and allow the garlic to fry until golden brown Remove from heat and add the ground espelette chili

2 Allow the oil to steep for 15-20 minutes at room temperature Once cool add flax oil

Chef Matthias Fong

3 Slice 8 pickled string beans thinly into rounds

4 Dice the apple into 1 cm cubes and add a splash of the pickled string bean liquid as well as rice vinegar add to the sliced string beans

5 Set up 4 plates Slice the tuna into frac34 cm thick slices and lay out 85 g per plate Using the finishing salt season the tuna to taste

6 Pull the prosciutto slices apart into bite-sized pieces and scatter them with the tuna slices

7 Drizzle 1 Tbs (15 mL) flax oil over each plate with a few slices of the fried garlic from the oil on each plate

8 Scatter the apple and string bean mixture over the slices of tuna being sure to spoon some of the pickling liquid from the bowl over the tuna slices Finish with pea shoot tips and toasted flax seed

Chef Matthias FongRiver Cafeacute

A good quality knife is made from high quality steel usually German or Japanese which will stay sharp for a long period of time and has the potential to last a lifetime

Owning a stainless steel knife versus one made from high carbon steel is also extremely beneficial in any kitchen Itrsquos easy for a knife to end up in the sink which can leave non-stainless varieties rusted and ruined

ldquoRegardless of style or brand itrsquos never safe to let knives go dull Dull knives lead to excessive force and can easily slip off the product yoursquore cuttingrdquo cautions Fong

ldquoTo properly care for a knife I recommend investing in some sharpening stone andor a ceramic honing rod which prolongs the life of your knife and requires less sharpening I also suggest signing up for a class to learn the art of sharpening or just take your knives directly to the folks at Knifewear and theyrsquoll gladly maintain for yourdquo

ldquoMy go-to knife is the Tojiro Flash 825-inch slicer Itrsquos short in length making it versatile for a variety of uses I use it for the majority of my prep work but itrsquos ideal for slicing and carving The narrow blade allows for paper thin slicing on delicate fish like tunardquo says Fong

ldquoI favour the Tojiro line of knives because they offer stainless Japanese steel thatrsquos easy to sharpen and repairrdquo

14

Chef Kai SalimaumlkiThe Block

Chef Salimaumlki is all about a great multipurpose knife ldquoI love the Masakage Kumo Petty 150 mm knife Itrsquos ideal for numerous tasks in the kitchen but I especially love it for chopping fine herbs Itrsquos lightweight and has a remarkably sharp edge that has chives bouncing from under it in perfect uniform circlesrdquo he explains

The Petty knife is ideal for smaller jobs such as slicing shallots cutting herbs and boning smaller proteins And because of its size itrsquos also a great alternative for those who feel uncomfortable wielding a larger heavier chefrsquos knife

ldquoI would recommend this knife for the home cook as it can replace many utility knives people seem to collect in drawers And of course most importantly I recommend proper love attention and care to ensure you keep this tool functioning for a very long timerdquo

You simply canrsquot do your best without your equipment at its best

Chef Jorel ZielkeBrasserie Kensington and Winebar

ldquoIrsquom a huge fan of my 10frac34-inch MAC chefrsquos knife This multipurpose knife is modeled after the standard French chefrsquos kniferdquo says Zielke

Sirloin Beef TartareServes 2

335 g AAA beef sirloin2 Tbs (30 mL) grainy mustard cup minced shallots Tbs minced gherkins2 Tbs cup finely chopped parsley Worcestershire sauce to tasteHot sauce to tasteCold pressed canola oil to taste 1 egg yolk in tact with all whites removedPinch of fresh grated horseradishSalt and pepper

1 Finely dice the sirloin removing any connective tissue or silver-skin Do not trim off the fat Pass over the meat several times with your knife

2 Mix in mustard shallots gherkins parsley Worcestershire hot sauce oil and salt and pepper

3 Note All garnish measurements are suggestions as tartares vary to personal taste Add enough oil to moisten dish but be careful not to oversaturate

4 Top tartare with raw egg yolk and freshly grated horseradish

5 Serve with anything you can pick it up with such as crostini crackers fresh bread fresh heirloom tomato or crisp lettuce

ldquoI canrsquot emphasize enough the importance of respecting your tools by keeping them clean and properly functioning to avoid safety issues You simply canrsquot do your best without your equipment at its bestrdquo

ldquoA sharp knife is key when dicing raw meat like in my recipe belowrdquo he continues ldquoKeep in mind that itrsquos not firm like an onion or a stick of celery Meat shifts and moves as you prepare it so itrsquos important to slow down and take your time when preparing a dish like tartarerdquo

Chef Jorel Zielke

Chef Kai Salimaumlki

15

Robyn is a public relations professional and occasional writer with a passion for food and beverages Despite city hopping from her home in Calgary to Anchorage AK you can still find her on Twitter robynalana

Braised Brisket with Carrot Puree and Napa Cabbage Serves 4

900 ndash 1125 g brisket5 carrots peeled and sliced 12-16 baby potatoes 1 head of Napa cabbage julienned5 parsnips peeled and sliced 2 tomatoes quartered2 yellow onions quartered1 yellow onion thinly sliced6 sprigs of thyme4 sprigs of rosemary 6 whole cloves of garlic3-4 Tbs butter1 Tbs black peppercornsCanola oil4 cups (1 L) beef stock or water1 cup (240 mL) of milkHoney to tasteSalt and pepper 1 Season brisket liberally with salt and pepper (you can braise whole or cut it into smaller chunks)

2 In a large sauteacute pan heat canola oil until it has reached its smoking point Sear the meat on all sides until golden brown and caramelized

3 Remove from pan and place in a large ovenproof baking dish covering with beef stock (or water) Add peppercorns two sprigs of rosemary 4 sprigs of thyme whole garlic tomatoes and the quartered onions

4 Cover with tin foil and braise for approximately for 3-3frac12 hours at 325ordm F or until fork tender

5 Remove from the braising juices spoon off any excess fat and strain juices into a saucepot reduce on a medium heat until a nice thick sauce has formed

6 For carrot puree add two tablespoons of butter in a heavy bottomed saucepan and sauteacute sliced onion and diced carrots together over medium heat Yoursquore not looking to brown the vegetables but rather simmer in the butter

7 After 10 minutes cover the mixture with milk add 2 sprigs of thyme and season with salt Simmer until soft and tender

8 Strain the carrots and reserve the milk throw out the thyme sprigs Place the carrots and onions in a blender and slowly add the milk until a nice puree is achieved check seasoning and thickness and adjust if necessary Set aside 9 Sauteacute julienned cabbage in a tablespoon of butter season with salt and add 2 tablespoons of water Reduce heat and cook for 5 minutes stirring frequently

ldquoI recommend proper love attention and care to ensure you keep this tool functioning for a

very long timerdquo

10 Toss sliced carrots and parsnips with honey chopped rosemary and thyme season with salt and pepper and roast in the oven for an hour at 325ordm F or until tender 11 Boil the baby potatoes in heavily salted water until fork tender

12 To serve set up 4 plates and spoon carrot puree on the bottom of the plate in a circle Arrange potatoes carrots and parsnips around the plate place Napa cabbage in the middle and place brisket on top Spoon the reduced braising liquid over the meat

16

As Nemeth chats with customers other vendors and friends who stop by her enthusiastic greetings and joyous laughter are hard to ignore mdash this is a woman who clearly likes people In fact she loves them Warm hearty and full of surprises the words used to describe Nemethrsquos personality can just as easily be used to describe her soup

The Primal Soup Co is a fairly new entity mdash the frozen containers of soup with flavours like Mango Butternut Squash Spinach Artichoke and Feta and Thai Coconut Chicken first showed up at the Market on MacLeod (then the

Going To MarketPrimal Soup Company Finds Its Homeby ELIZABETH CHORNEY-BOOTH photography by INGRID KUENZEL

If you happen to spy Margaret Nemeth at one of her Primal Soup Company booths at the Crossroads Market or the Market on MacLeod yoursquoll immediately see that the energetic atmosphere of a Farmersrsquo Market suits her

Kingsland Farmersrsquo Market) in 2011 mdash but Nemeth is not new to the food and beverage game

Long-time Calgarians may recognize the Primal name and the taste of Nemethrsquos homemade soups from the now defunct Primal Grounds Cappuccino Bar and Eatery in Killarney which Nemeth owned and ran from 1996 through to 2010

Nemeth opened that business after a career in oil and gas and the stand-alone cafeacute was a solid success for her Not only did it serve up great coffee Nemeth quickly made a name for herself with her homemade soup creations All homemade and gluten-free (due to Nemethrsquos own dietary restrictions) Primal Grounds was catering to people with gluten intolerances long before it became fashionable

ldquoWe were pioneers and it was so much funrdquo Nemeth says ldquoThere were lots of ups and downs but it was a good liferdquo

ldquoWhen yoursquore in a market you have to give people reasons to stoprdquo

Margaret Nemeth

17

Nemeth sold the cafeacute when a real estate developer made her an offer she couldnrsquot refuse but she still felt the urge to be around people and feed them So she set up shop in the markets - first the Market on MacLeod and then in January of 2015 she opened a stall in the rebranded Crossroads Market

Elizabeth Chorney-Booth is a Calgary-based writer and co-founderco-editor of RollingSpooncom and Wapawekkacom She enjoys exploring the connection between music and food through interviews with musicians and chefs

Primal Soup also sells lunch items like gourmet macaroni and cheese sandwiches and homemade pies and pastries so that market wanderers can stop by the stall and grab a full lunch while perusing the soup cooler for something to take home for a future meal

ldquoWhen yoursquore in a market you have to give people reasons to stoprdquo Nemeth says ldquoSo we offer things to go with the soup which also gives them ideas for what they can do at home Or sometimes theyrsquoll come for a sandwich and then theyrsquoll look at the soups You have to give people reasons to be in this spacerdquo

ldquoWe were pioneers and it was so much funrdquo

Whatever Nemeth is doing it seems to be working Between the two farmersrsquo markets and specialty retailers like the Market on 17th Sunnyside Market and SPUD delivery boxes Primal Soup Co sells over 1000 containers of soup every week Nemeth develops the recipes herself but has hired a full-time chef to keep up with the demand Personality and strategic stall locations in busy farmersrsquo markets alone isnrsquot enough to move that kind of volume of soup mdash while Nemeth has made smart business decisions over the course of Primalrsquos various incarnations the key to her success really lies in the product itself Everything is made from scratch without the aid of pre-bought soup bases and Nemeth uses seasonal ingredients (only 20 to 30 of her 50 soup varieties are ever available at any given time) supporting her neighbours at the markets when possible Her meat stocks are built from organic chicken bones Wintersrsquo turkey carcasses and duck bones from fellow market vendor Green Eggs and Ham to build a rich and delicious broth ldquoI layer my soupsrdquo Nemeth says ldquoI donrsquot just throw everything in the pot together And there has to be a twist in every one There has to be something

that you donrsquot expect mdash a surprise in every boxrdquo

To bring things full circle Nemeth has a new venture that just opened kitty corner to her Primal Soup stall in the Crossroads Market a beautiful and shiny new Primal Grounds coffee location With a long counter for people to sit at for as long as they like (Nemeth jokes that itrsquos the perfect place for bored spouses to sit while their partners shop the market) itrsquos an updated nod to what got Primal Soup started in the first place

And itrsquos also a testament to Nemethrsquos dedication to market life mdash the lack of control she has over her own hours and some other aspects arenrsquot perfect but the busyness the proximity to like-minded vendors and most of all the people she gets to interact with on a constant basis has put Nemeth exactly where she belongs ldquoYoursquore only as strong as the market is collectivelyrdquo she says ldquoItrsquos different than being a restaurant but I have to say itrsquos the funnest thing Irsquove ever donerdquo

ldquoThere has to be something that you donrsquot

expect mdash a surprise in every boxrdquo

18

Soup Kitchenstory and photography by DAN CLAPSON

The fresh hang-up-your-winter-jacket feeling is finally in the air ndash and that my friends is a wonderful thing Gone are the days where wersquove looked forward to spooning into a big bowl of creamy soup or sitting down to some chicken noodle soup to help shake off the winter sniffles These days Irsquom more concerned with light and bright flavours and less calorie-ridden meals

so I wonrsquot look completely undesirable in a swimsuit come June

Here are two great recipes that just happen to be vegan but are bursting with flavour

Serves 5 Total cook time 35 minutes

6 cups (15 L) vegetable broth1 cup (240 mL) white wine1 cup (240 mL) water2 Tbs (30 mL) tomato paste2 cups dry green lentils1 red onion halved and thinly sliced1 small fennel bulb halved and thinly sliced2 tsp (10 mL) maple syrup1 tsp dried oreganofrac12 tsp ground turmericfrac12 tsp chili flakesfrac12 tsp ground cinnamon1 pinch nutmeg2 cups thinly sliced red Swiss chardTo taste salt and pepper

1 Place broth wine water and tomato paste in a large pot and bring to a simmer on medium-high heat Add lentils and cook for 15 minutes

2 Add onion fennel maple syrup and spices and continue to cook for 15 minutes

Spiced Green Lentil and Chard Soup

3 Add Swiss chard and cook until leaves are tender about 2-3 minutes Season to taste with salt and pepper and serve

Dan Clapson is a freelance food writer and columnist in Calgary When hersquos not writing about Canadarsquos amazing culinary scene he is likely listening to 80s rock or 90s boy bands Follow him on twitter dansgoodside

Spinach and Cashew Soup with Poblano and Scallion Salsa

Serves 4 Total cook time 30 minutes not including cashew soak time

Soup1frac12 cups roasted cashews2 cups (500 mL) water4 cups (1 L) vegetable broth4 cups cooked spinach1 Tbs (15 mL) apple cider vinegar1 Tbs (15 mL) maple syrupfrac12 tsp cayenne peppersalt and pepper to tastecashew butter for garnish optional

1 Place cashews and water in a container cover and let sit on counter overnight

2 Combine cashews water and remaining soup ingredients in a blender and pureacutee until very smooth

3 Pour contents of blender through a fine mesh strainer into a medium pot Bring to a simmer on medium-high heat and cook for 15 minutes Season to taste with salt and pepper and keep warm on stove until ready to serve

4 Place a couple of spoonfuls of the salsa into each bowl and ladle soup around it Add a couple of dollops of cashew butter for a little extra richness

Salsa1 large poblano pepper halved and seeds removed1 bunch scallions2 Tbs (30 mL) canola oil2 Tbs fresh mint roughly chopped1 tsp (5 mL) lemon juicefrac12 tsp cane sugarfrac12 tsp chili flakessalt and pepper to taste

1 Preheat oven to 400ordm F

2 Place poblano halves and scallions on a baking sheet drizzle with oil and roast until slightly charred about 15-18 minutes

3 Remove from oven allow to cool slightly then give them a rough chop

4 Add to a bowl with remaining ingredients and toss to combine Season liberally with salt and pepper

20

Photograph courtesy California Wine Institute

Ever since Napa Valley cabernet sauvignons and chardonnays bested their more historic counterparts from Bordeaux and Burgundy in the now-famous Judgment of Paris tasting in 1976 California and its flagship region have carried the torch for the bold dense fruity lushly oaked wines that brought them worldwide fame

Forty years later this sun-drenched style of wines remains both unapologetically enjoyable and wildly popular and Napa is on the bucket list of any devoted wine tourist But as tastes and trends start to evolve away from a focus on power and concentration towards greater elegance and food-friendliness winemakers in California are again taking to the frontier gravitating towards the statersquos physical and climatic extremes to explore new boundaries of flavour and complexity Californiarsquos cooler corners

California Coolby PETER VETSCH

California is a land of frontiers dangling on the edge of the Pacific home of the Gold Rush and epicentre of the New Worldrsquos insurgence onto the global wine scene

are fast becoming its second face in the world of wine

Sonoma County north of San Francisco and just west of Napa is probably Californiarsquos second best-known region almost equally recognized for its cabernets chardonnays and zinfandels The largest subregion in the county taking up almost a third of its total area is the western Sonoma Coast too expansive at 500000 acres to have a distinct identity

However the western border of this appellation a razorrsquos edge straddling the ocean locally known as the ldquotruerdquo Sonoma Coast showcases the regionrsquos true character - extreme viticulture wet cool and always windy at elevations up to 2000 feet balanced on the San Andreas Fault with many vines growing above the fog line and constantly exposed to the throes of the Pacific Pinot noir takes on a unique expression here on low-yielding vines in the cool above the rest of Sonoma offering both remarkable purity of fruit and astonishing acidity and structure

Pinot is also predominant in the relatively new Santa Rita Hills subregion of the Santa Ynez Valley located an hour and a half northwest of Los Angeles and similarly perched right alongside the ocean The maritime influence dominates the microclimate and counteracts the California sun with fog and cool breezes to the point where this coastal spot becomes a near ideal substitute for chilly Burgundy Here the core Burgundian varietals of pinot noir and chardonnay thrive in a particularly striking edgy way

Santa Ynez is the only wine region in the western hemisphere where the arearsquos defining mountain range runs east-west instead of north-south creating a sort of maritime wind tunnel that sucks cold Pacific air eastward This leads to some of the largest diurnal (day to night) temperature shifts in North America and allows inland grapes ripening in the scorching daytime heat to recharge and maintain acidity at night This special geological feature allows a wide range of reds in Santa Ynez to be juicy but still structured bold yet balanced from cabernet and merlot to syrah and grenache

Halfway between the Sonoma Coast to the north and the Santa Rita Hills to the south along yet another coastline

California can comfortably both provide continuity

and defy stereotype

Wine Picks

Peter is a local lawyer by day and wine writer by night maintaining his own wine blog at popandpourca He is always on the lookout for the next way to experience wine and the next good bottle to try

A LITTLE SIBLING RIVALRY NEVER HURT ANYBODY

FOUR SETTINGS ONE PHILOSOPHY crmrcom338 - 17th Avenue SW

c i l a n t ro

747 Lake Bonavista Dr SE113 - 8th Avenue SW 340 - 17th Avenue SW

Sequoia Grove 2012 Cabernet Sauvignon (Napa Valley)Textbook cabernet from Naparsquos heart of Rutherford with deep black fruit mint and cedarhellip and a survivable price tag CSPC +740382 $56

Hartford Court Landrsquos Edge Vineyard Pinot Noir (Sonoma Coast)The ferocity of the Sonoma Coast somehow creates the picture of elegance in this juicy yet delicate pinot CSPC +717210 $60

Domaine de la Cote 2013 Pinot Noir (Sta Rita Hills) Seriously pushes the boundaries picked almost insanely early for low-alcohol herbal pomegranate and rhubarb acidic tension and energy CSPC +761893 $58

Alice May Crosswinds Syrah (Santa Ynez Valley) A syrahviognier Cote Rotie-style co-ferment that matches Cali ripeness with surprising verve and delicacy CSPC +761131 $28

Ridge 2013 Geyserville (Santa Cruz Mountains)This will change your expectations of zinfandel A zin-heavy field blend it combines the best of its mountain altitude and the California sun CSPC +426379 $55

just south of San Jose the wineries of the Santa Cruz Mountains prove again that those seeking to make modern moderate wines in California head both west and up The highest vineyards in Santa Cruz despite being just miles from the ocean are at 2600 feet this significant altitude and the cool Pacific climate results in chiseled wines with controlled ripeness and serious staying power

The region is both expansive and miniscule with only 1500 of its 480000 acres currently planted to grapes and its very-California plantings (cabernet chardonnay pinot noir zinfandel and merlot) all take on an Old World character and rusticity from its rugged terrain and stony mineral-laden soils Despite the challenges associated with growing grapes on a cool rock face Santa Cruz is a state leader in sustainable growing practices

The friendly sunny face of California wine is surely here to stay but Santa Cruz Santa Ynez and the Sonoma Coast are permanent proof that the state is readily capable of more than one expression With its range of climate and terrain California can comfortably both provide continuity and defy stereotype

22

En GardeA Beginnerrsquos Guide To Knives And Their Usesby ANNA BROOKS

Itrsquos difficult to imagine that sharp little number thatrsquos slicing away to the rhythm of your favourite cooking music (or to the beating of child-size fists hungry for dinner) was more often used for combat not chopping carrots

Despite King Louis XIVrsquos decree that the tips of knives be ground down to reduce violence in the mid-1600s kitchen knives still (for quite pointed reasons) make popular murder weapons

But we wonrsquot get into grisly stories of guts and gore here Whether yoursquore a chef extraordinaire or the person whose knife knowledge goes as far as cutting

vegetables with a steak knife there are some things everyone should know about knives

The first major thing we must insist upon is putting down that expensive 14-piece knife set As most knife experts can attest to three main knives can cover almost all the work that a layman cook needs to do in the kitchen

23

Three main knives can cover almost all the work that a layman cook needs

to do in the kitchen

Chefrsquos Knife Your standard knife for mincing and slicing vegetables and meat a chefrsquos knife is typically 20-25 cm long but can range all the way up to 36 cm

Luke Pickett from Knifewear is a sight to see wielding some wickedly sharp

handcrafted Japanese models but despite their carnivorous look Pickett said therersquos really nothing to fear

ldquoThere are a lot of people who are scared of really large knivesrdquo Pickett said ldquoBut having good quality kitchen equipment will make your life easierrdquo

For beginners a standard 20 cm chefrsquos knife (although Pickett said blade length is purely based on personal preference) is best to start with but a Japanese Santoku knife mdash an elegant slightly smaller version of a chefrsquos knife mdash will certainly get the job er meal done

Paring KnifeOn the other side of the knife spectrum is the pocket-sized paring knife (note carrying knives in pockets not recommended)

Regan Johnson assistant manager at The Cookbook Co said besides what the individual using a steak knife to cut everything might think the small intricate work required of a paring knife (such as peeling and trimming) should not be done on a cutting board

ldquoParing is anything you can be doing in the air mdash yoursquore not ever supposed to use a paring knife on a boardrdquo she explained

Johnson added that for someone like herself who does almost as much blade-wielding as a samurai she also recommends a utility knife

which is a hybrid of a chefrsquos knife and a paring knife

ldquoI reach for my utility knife a lotrdquo she said ldquoItrsquos got that shape of a paring knife but is longer Itrsquos just for those things in between that you donrsquot need your giant chefrsquos knife forrdquo

Bread KnifeThe last of the big three is of course a bread knife Have you ever tried to cut a loaf of bread with a straight blade Not so easy (or safe) a task

Itrsquos sometimes difficult to do but no matter the type of knife yoursquore using itrsquos important to try and slice as opposed to chopping or sawing It

is quite tempting (and often seems easier) to saw away at the crispy crust of a floured loaf of sourdough but Knifewearrsquos Pickett said sawing can

be a slippery slope to your bread knifersquos grave

ldquoIf you slice you can use the entire blade and itrsquos a lot sharper along the edgerdquo he explained ldquoItrsquos important to get a good bread knife because you canrsquot sharpen them like you can any other sort of kniferdquo

The Big Three

24

Having good quality kitchen equipment will

make your life easier

Anna Brooks is an award-winning journalist from Calgary Alberta She has worked internationally in Thailand and Africa and has been published in Metro BeatRoute Magazine and the Calgary Journal She also enjoys animal rights fantasy fiction and whiskey sours

Tips and TricksOf course you can adorn your kitchen with the countless others belonging to the knife family mdash cleavers carvers boning knives cheese knives etc mdash but if yoursquore not planning on hacking through solid bone anytime soon you probably donrsquot need to spend $200 on a meat cleaver

But there are some other knife-related implements that are important to have in your kitchen

First off a proper cutting board While plastic cutting boards are versatile and can be chucked in the dishwasher wood is really the best way to go Cutting boards are the quickest way to ruin a knife so steer clear of fancy-looking glass or granite boards mdash they are the antagonists of our story

Itrsquos also not a bad idea to have a knife honer on hand As a reminder (or for

those who had no idea what that random rod in the kitchen was used for) honers are for honing not sharpening

ldquoWith use the metal fibres in a knife edge can get bent to one side or another All yoursquore doing with honing is straightening those fibres back outrdquo Johnson from The Cookbook Co explained ldquoSharpening means yoursquore actually removing material and grinding the metal down to a finer edgerdquo

Johnson added that while you can sharpen at home she always recommends getting your knives sharpened professionally at least once a year depending on how much theyare used

Before you go back to making your lazy-day grilled cheese sandwich or that complex stew yoursquove spent hours on we just want to remind you of whatrsquos called ldquothe pinch griprdquo

Not to sound snobbish but grabbing a knife by the handle and hacking away is poor form Use your thumb and index finger to grasp the blade and then wrap your remaining fingers under the bolster of the knife Shape your other hand into a claw to protect your fingertips from accidentally getting lopped off firmly grasp the object to be cut and slice away

If this knowledge was present in the 17th century perhaps old King Louis XIV would be tipping his crown to more cooks not kitchen knife combatants

25

Times Are A Changing Unexpected Take-Outs

by LINDA GARSON and DIANA NG photography by INGRID KUENZEL

Therersquos no denying that many of our cityrsquos restaurants are feeling the effects of the current economic downturn fewer people working downtown ndash indeed fewer people working altogether and so looking to save money by eating out less means many bricks and mortar restaurants are having to get creative with ways to fully utilise their kitchens and staff

High rents exacerbate the situation so itrsquos time for Calgary restaurateurs to think outside the box and proving to be the innovative entrepreneurs that wersquore known for many are diversifying their offerings to include take-out options both raw and cooked

Catch amp The Oyster Bar launched their ldquoBuy Catchrdquo program where you can pick up fresh Ocean Wise seafood to take home and cook (complete with recipes) along with house-made clam chowder and sauces nearly two years ago There are big savings to be had over dining in with no costs for linen or staff and no expectation to tip

Here are four Calgary eateries also getting clever with take-out

programs that are not widely publicised - and may

open a few eyes

26

Centini Restaurant

Itrsquos not a cookie cutter program but the magic of Centinirsquos take-out is that you can ask the kitchen for ideas of what you should have for dinner People even text the servers for suggestions and to order Loyal customers mostly busy businessmen were asking if they catered but without the staff for such a service Centini started offering to prepare dishes for them to cook themselves

Now you can get your favourite restaurant dishes from rack of lamb with red wine demi-glace AAA Alberta beef tenderloin with Gorgonzola pan sauce and sea bass with ginger cream sauce ready to cook at home ldquoWersquore not going to open a bricks and mortar restaurant down south but our food is going thererdquo says Chevonne Centini Theyrsquore seeing pick-ups such as for people stuck at home with a new baby and even 40 people for a funeral

Boxwood

Itrsquos hard to believe that the quality of food coming from the sister restaurant to River Cafe can be had at home and we are not talking about leftovers When

People take home uncooked homemade pasta with sauce separately and even bread dough and often freeze it to cook later or pick up on a Friday evening so everything is prepared ready for Saturday dinner When buying from a restaurant yoursquore getting top quality perfectly trimmed meat everything is done for you - therersquos no shopping

around and even the parsley is chopped And as everything is custom-made all allergies are catered for too

Centini gets fish delivered once or twice every day and it may come as a surprise but with a chef garde manger that spent 15 years in Japan they have customers coming just to take out sushi

you go home to an empty fridge it feels like the only options you have are fast food or pizza Not so

Boxwoodrsquos fresh and seasonal fare is also available to take home While you wonrsquot

be able to enjoy the quaint atmosphere of the restaurant you can order anything on the menu for take out with its special offering being the whole rotisserie free-range chicken which serves two to four people for $40

Many bricks and mortar restaurants are

having to get creative with ways to fully utilise their

kitchens and staff

You will need to call a few hours ahead (the website states before 200 pm) for enough notice for the chicken but for the rest of the selection like its soups and sandwiches you can simply look up the menu online and call to place an order For a perfect night in may we suggest starting with its bison tartare then moving onto the porchetta and another main before finishing off the meal with a slice of pie

27

Gaucho

For most people the elaborate setup of Brazilian barbecue is one of its biggest attractions You may not know this and while you may not be able to take home the lively decor of Gaucho you can actually take the meal home

The spit packed tightly with freshly roasted meats the sign at the table that signals yoursquore ready for more and the roasted and caramelized pineapple that tops off the meal all contribute to the atmosphere but if all you want are the meats and sides for a hefty dinner you can certainly order the meal as a take-out

Order any of the four options (top sirloin pork loin chicken wings or mild sausage) and add three sides from the list of eight which includes a variety of salads black bean stew and rice And because you canrsquot just have one kind of meat when it comes to Brazilian barbecue you can choose additional

Safari Grill

The marinated thinly sliced BBQ short beef ribs at Safari Grill are already a must-have for those in the know but we suspect even regulars will be surprised to discover that you can pick

up uncooked ribs with your choice of seven marinades to take home and BBQ yourself

With none of the associated costs of dining in $65 buys you enough ribs for 10 people and customers actually drive

meats for $4 each Finally choose the sauce yoursquod like to accompany your meal Orders for over five people will come in a big white box and individual

orders come will in regular take-out containers For big parties do call a few hours ahead All you need to make at home is the caipirinha

from Saskatchewan to take away 10-15 lb bags of these uncooked marinated ribs Some people call and ask for them to be marinated and frozen in 5 lb bags to enjoy later as just 5-7 minutes each side on a high flame has the raw ribs ready to eat

And itrsquos not only ribs that people BBQ at home Mishkaki are skewers of marinated chicken beef and prawns and for as little as $3 each you can have a very inexpensive BBQ feast Marinated raw lamb chops are also available or ask for Samaki - a marinated whole tilapia that comes with a basting sauce to brush on You can even get uncooked samosas to cook in your oven at home

All Safari Grillrsquos regular menu can be ordered for take-out but there is no published price list for uncooked dishes so people call to order and ask - but when yoursquore picking up look out for the new jars of house-made mango and lemon pickles

28

Step By Step Go Nuts With Homemade Nutella And Waffles story and photography by NATALIE FINDLAY

There are many nutritional benefits packed into these small filberts They are rich in dietary fibre packed with folate an excellent source of vitamin E and contain mono-unsaturated fatty acids that

can help lower bad cholesterol and raise good cholesterol By making your own Nutella at home you can control the amount of sugar that is added making this delicious spread basicallyhellip a health food

Hazelnuts have a tried and true following for taking the lead role in the chocolate spread Nutella This long-standing love affair has lasted simply because they add a distinct but subtle flavour to the chocolate Truly a match that is better together than apart

These delicious and super-easy waffles make a great base for your homemade Nutella With the addition of ground hazelnuts to the batter you can deepen the hazelnut flavour and pack in more health benefits

Waffles with raspberries and white chocolate spread

29

Natalie is a freelance writer photographer and pastry chef A graduate of Cordon Bleursquos pastry program she manages her own business too to create custom-made cakes

Using the same waffle recipe from above and switching out the mashed banana and adding frac12 a medium orange ndash juice and zest ndash to the batter you have a delicious orange waffle that will highlight the white chocolate hazelnut spread recipe below

Homemade White Chocolate Hazelnut Spread Makes 1frac12 cups

1frac12 cups (200 g) whole hazelnutsfrac12 cup (70 g) icing sugar2 Tbs (30 mL) canola oil1 tsp (5 mL) vanilla extract1 cup (250g) white chocolate

Follow directions for Homemade Nutella and add the melted white chocolate at the end Pulse to combine

Macerated Raspberries with Orange Serves 6

250 g fresh raspberriesfrac12 medium orange zest and juice1 Tbs icing sugarfrac12 tsp vanilla extract

Add all ingredients into a medium bowl and stir to combine Let sit for about 1 hour

Serve your warm waffles topped with your white chocolate homemade hazelnut spread macerated berries and a dollop of whipped cream or ice cream

Note Homemade Nutella has more texture than store bought and will last around 1 month in the fridge Waffles can be made ahead and frozen Thaw and reheat in the waffle maker or the oven

Banana Fruit compoteMakes enough for 6

3 ripe bananas peeled sliced into rounds2 Tbs (30 g) butter2 Tbs (30 g) brown sugar1frac12 tsp (8 mL) vanilla extract1frac12 tsp (8 mL) bourbon

1 Add butter and sugar to a sauteacute pan over medium heat As they melt stir to combine

2 Add vanilla and bourbon than add sliced bananas and sauteacute until warmed through

Serve your warm waffles topped with your homemade hazelnut spread sauteacuteed bananas and a dollop of whipped cream or ice cream

Homemade Nutella Makes 1frac12 cups

1frac12 cups (200 g) whole hazelnutsfrac34 cup (100g) icing sugar3 Tbs (45 mL) canola oilfrac14 cup (30 g) cocoa powder1 tsp (5 mL) vanilla extract

1 Toast hazelnuts on a baking pan in a preheated 350ordm F oven for 10 - 15 minutes Keep an eye on them to make sure they donrsquot start to burn Remove from oven and let cool to the touch

2 Wrap the nuts in a kitchen towel and rub together to remove the skins This should remove most of the skins

3 Place skinless hazelnuts in a food processor on high Process the nuts until they form a smooth paste and the oils start to separate (about 5 minutes) scraping the bowl often

4 Add the icing sugar cocoa powder vanilla and canola oil to the food processor and process until fully incorporated scraping bowl of processor as needed (about 2 minutes)

Hazelnut Banana WafflesMakes 6

frac12 cup (80 g) all purpose flour1 tsp baking powderfrac12 tsp baking sodaPinch sea salt1 Tbs (15 g) icing sugar1 Tbs (10 g) ground hazelnuts6 grates whole nutmeg1 tsp ground cinnamonfrac12 cup (125 mL) buttermilk1 egg yolk2 Tbs (30 g) butter meltedfrac12 small banana peeled and mashed1 egg white

1 Sift together all dry ingredients (except the ground hazelnuts) in a medium bowl Add the ground hazelnuts and combine

2 Mash the half banana in a small bowl with a fork Add the egg buttermilk and melted butter

3 Whisk the egg white to stiff peaks

4 Whisk the wet ingredients into the dry and fold the egg white into the mixture

5 Follow the directions for your waffle pan to cook waffles for around 5 minutes or until cooked through

Note Remember to bring the waffle pan up to temperature in between each batch of waffles

Hazelnut Banana Waffles with Nutella

30

Citrus Beer Friendsby DAVID NUTTALL

This is when the taste andor aroma of a beer can remind the drinker of anything from an orange drink or lemonade to grapefruit soda There are several ways to achieve this character and these beers are becoming more and more popular every day

Hops provide the bitterness in beer and out of the literally hundreds of varieties a few impart citrus notes into the aroma and flavour Cascade and Citra are examples of two of the most popular hops used in several styles of beer most notably the American IPA or India Pale Ale Cascade hops have been around for over 40 years and it is the single most popular hop used by the American craft brewing industry It provides a floralspicy character often reminiscent of grapefruit

Citrarsquos name leaves no guessing as to its attributes A relative newcomer this cross breed of UK German and US hop varieties has been around for less than a decade but it is already an extremely popular hop for imparting

One of the great things about beer is its diversity It can come in a myriad of colours and also a wide variety of flavours citrus being one of the most distinct

Dave Nuttall has been in the liquor and event business forever He is a qualified beer judge and ownerpresident of Epicurean Calgary at epicureancalgarycom for ten years

citrus and tropical fruit characteristics to a beer

It has proven very versatile and appears in several beer styles from session ales to IPAs It has also become a favourite hop to use for dry-hopping (adding hops late into the boil) due to the exceptional aromas it produces For even more flavour and aroma craft brewers now commonly enhance these already citrusy IPAs with actual zest peel or juice from citrus fruits to create an IPAFruit Beer hybrid which sells especially well in summer months

Then there is the yeast and many varieties of yeast can produce citrusy esters The unfiltered hefeweizens brewed on both sides of the Atlantic quite often have a lemony flavour Sour beers also showcase the yeast often cultured from Belgian strains

These beers are tart and produce a gamut of flavours many with citrus qualities and some have added fruit - the easiest and most obvious way to create a citrusy beer The Belgians also add different kinds of oranges with spice additions to their wheat ales to create wit beers now emulated all over the world with different citrus (and other) fruits involved in the recipe We also canrsquot forget the radlers which are simply a lager beer mixed with 40-60 fruit juice - often grapefruit or lemonade

Whether itrsquos added fruit the yeast the hops or a combination of all of them citrusy beers are commonplace now Thanks to new hops like Citra and the increasing popularity of wits and sours we can expect this trend to continue

Here are a few local beers with hints of citrus All are also available on tap

Beer comes in a myriad of colours and flavours citrus being one of the

most distinct

Ribstone Creek Great White CombineThis tiny Edgerton Alberta brewery has been knocking it out of the park lately Named after the ubiquitous Alberta summer hailstorm the use of Belgian yeast sweet orange peel and coriander give this beer an orange flavour in the beginning When the four different hop additions kick in it changes more to a sweet lemony flavour This White IPA has a very tropical feel that makes you forget it was made in northern Alberta CSPC +774162 $16 6-pack cans

Wild Rose Cowbell Sour ales are the new Belle of the Ball at craft breweries Often using imported Belgian yeast strains they are tart tangy and wellhellip sour Calgaryrsquos Wild Rose has taken this flavour profile and added kaffir lime leaves This makes the beer more like a refreshing limeade and is less bitter than many of its other sour counterparts CSPC +778093 $17 6-pack bottles

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TICKETS AVAILABLE AT ALBERTABEERFESTIVALSCOM

MAY 6-7 2016FRIDAY3-10 PM BEER GEEK VIP4-10 PM GENERAL ADMISSION

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Citradelic Single Hop IPA Big Rock BreweryWith breweries in two (soon to be three) provinces Big Rock now has multiple locations to develop new beers This is the first one from their Vancouver brewery and is full of lemongrapefruit flavours and tropical aromas This beer showcases the Citra hop fooling one to think that citrus has been added when itrsquos all thanks to the hop CSPC +778593 $15 6-pack bottles

Alley Kat Main SqueezeWhat started out as a summer seasonal has now become a mainstay of this Edmonton brewery A North American style wheat ale with a 50 wheat and 50 barley mix it has added grapefruit juice but tastes more along the lines of pink grapefruit rather than its more bitter cousin CSPC +733630 $17 6-pack bottles

32

story by RENEE KOHLMAN

Cheesecake is one of those classic desserts that almost everyone loves unless of course you have a dairy allergy then yoursquoll stay far far away from it While it may seem too complicated to make at home I assure you that itrsquos not

Spice it up cheesecake

Sure there are a few steps involved but the key thing to remember is to have your eggs and cream cheese at room temperature For the best crack-free cheesecake itrsquos best to bake it in a water bath It yields a light creamy texture and is well worth the effort Cheesecake always tastes better the next day so bake it the day before you want to serve it Now that wersquove got the basics down itrsquos time to have a little fun with the crust filling and toppings

The Base

The classic graham cracker crust is fine but every now and again itrsquos great to switch things up Try

ndash Grinding up ginger cookies They work especially well for a pumpkin cheesecake

ndash Chocolate cookie crumbs are fantastic for caramel peanut butter and raspberry cheesecakes

ndash Add finely chopped nuts oats or seeds to the cookie crumbs for added texture and taste

The Middle

Therersquos something to be said for a straight up vanilla or chocolate cheesecake but with some fun add-ins they could take your cheesecake to the next level of deliciousness Try

ndash Swirling tahini dulce de leche salted caramel or chocolate fudge sauce into a creamy vanilla filling

ndash Mix in chopped chocolate peanut butter cups to a chocolate filling

ndash Drop fresh berries (raspberries blueberries blackberries) on top of a vanilla filling

ndash Stir in chopped candied ginger dried cherries or cranberries chopped toasted nuts to the filling

ndash Swap some of the cream cheese with ricotta mascarpone cheese or even strained cottage cheese

ndash You can never go wrong with lemon zest in a vanilla cheesecake

Have a little fun with the crust filling

and toppings

33

Apple Crumble CheesecakeMakes about 12-14 servings Total cook and prep time 3 hours (plus overnight chilling)

I love apple crisp and I love cheesecake This recipe is a fine marriage of both and makes a more than acceptable breakfast The base is a crumble of oats and flour the middle is classic cheesecake and itrsquos topped with cinnamon apples and a buttery oat streusel

Crust 2 cups large flake oats1 cup all purpose flour cup packed brown sugarfrac34 cup butter meltedfrac12 tsp salt

Cheesecake Layer3 - 225 g packages cream cheese at room temperature cup granulated sugar1 tsp (5 mL) vanilla3 large eggs at room temperature cup (80 mL) whipping cream

Apple Layer2 apples peeled cored and sliced about 3-4 mm thick1 tsp ground cinnamonfrac12 tsp salt

Streusel Layer1 cup large flake oatsfrac12 cup all-purpose flourfrac12 cup brown sugarfrac12 cup butter softened1 tsp ground cinnamon

Preheat the oven to 375ordm F

1 Butter the bottom and sides of a 9-inch springform pan with sides that are at least 7 cm high Wrap the bottom of the pan in aluminum foil so it comes at least halfway up the sides

2 Combine the crust ingredients in a large bowl Press the crust evenly into the pan and place on a baking sheet Bake for 10 minutes Remove from oven and let it cool on a wire rack

3 Reduce heat to 325ordm F Put a kettle of water on to boil Have a large roasting pan close by

4 Using a stand mixer with a paddle attachment beat the cream cheese at medium speed for 4 minutes scraping down the sides once or twice until it is soft and creamy With the mixer still running add the sugar and beat for another 4 minutes scraping down the sides of the bowl at least twice Beat in the vanilla Add the eggs one at a time beating for 1 minute after each addition and scraping the bowl Reduce speed to low and add the whipping cream

5 Toss the sliced apples with the cinnamon and salt in a small bowl Combine all of the streusel ingredients in a medium bowl and mix well

6 Place the springform pan in the roasting pan Give the cheesecake batter a good stir and pour it on top of the crust Arrange the apples on top and sprinkle the streusel on top of the apples

7 Place in the oven on the middle rack and pour the hot water into the roasting pan so it comes halfway up the sides of the springform pan

8 Bake the cheesecake for 1frac12 hours Turn off the heat prop open the oven door and let the cheesecake hang inside for another hour

9 Carefully remove from the oven and take out the cheesecake from the hot water bath Remove the foil and let the cheesecake come to room temperature on a wire rack Cover the top lightly and refrigerate for at least 4 hours but overnight is best The next day remove the sides of the pan and serve the cake

Renee is a food writer and pastry chef living in beautiful Saskatoon Saskatchewan Her columns appear in The Saskatoon StarPhoenix and her desserts can be enjoyed at Riverside Country Club Also check out her blog wwwsweetsugarbeancom

The Toppings

Cheesecake with no fun toppings is like a salad with no dressing it just doesnrsquot reach its full flavour potential Try

ndash Salted caramel roasted strawberry sauce or warm chocolate sauce

ndash A rhubarbcardamom compote is divine on top of vanilla cheesecake kissed with a bit of lemon zest Cherry compote is divine with chocolate cheesecake

ndash Have a favourite jam Melt it down with a tiny bit of water and drizzle it on top of your favourite cheesecake

ndash Candied nuts and citrus rind chocolate shavings even crumbled cookies are a fun way to add texture to the cheesecake

ndash Never underestimate the power of fresh seasonal berries and a well-made cheesecakeMacerate them in a little sugar and minced mint or basil and they make a lovely topping Donrsquot forget the whipped cream

34

Think about that for a moment and let that sink in like a cherry in your drink

So how old is ice in bars Well thatrsquos a whole story on its own however the Old Fashioned has been talked about in one form or another since the beginning of the 19th Century The first appearance of this classic cocktail was in the Balance and Columbian Repository newspaper in 1806 as such ldquoA stimulating liquor composed of spirits of any kind sugar water and bittersrdquo

The Old FashionedAn Iconic Drink That Has Stood The Test Of Time

by BRICE PERESSINI

Sohelliphow old is the Old Fashioned The Old Fashioned is as old as ice in bars

When you follow these instructions and put this finely-crafted cocktail into your hand swirl around the ice gaze through the caramel-coloured liquid in the glass and contemplate all that has gone into it you can rest assured you are holding a drink that has delighted taste buds for generations The Old Fashioned however has not always been held in high regard There was a time not too long ago where this fine concoction was an unbalanced fruity watered-down pale imitation of itself More recently

there has been a renaissance involved with this invigorating intoxicant and you can and should expect a proper cocktail when it is ordered at a fine establishment

When this drink is properly prepared it should be in perfect balance (as any proper drink should be) The sweetness of the sugar should not cover the flavour of the bourbon and the bitters should add to not overpower the flavour of the whiskey When the Old Fashioned is well made it is as close to cocktail perfection as a sophisticated patron could expect

Befriend a bespoke barkeep at an upstanding establishment and you will be in trusted hands If you find yourself at home and wanting for a nightcap look no further than the Old Fashioned

Enjoy friends

Old Fashioned Recipe

2 oz Buffalo Trace Bourbon (or your personal favourite)4 dashes Angostura Aromatic Bitters1 raw sugar cube

Muddle the sugar and bitters together with a touch of warm water in a rocks glass Add the bourbon then add ice Stir and garnish with an orange peel and cherry (optional)

Brice is a competition cocktail bartender who plies his trade behind the wood at Chefbar Whisk(e)y is his poison Neat

35

Shoulder Season Wines

by JACLYN ADOMEIT

Wines For Cool Weather

Refreshing white wines match with sunny patios and hot days while bold tannic red wines earn their keep by a fireplace on a winter night Common sense But what about the shoulder season What if yoursquore eating sea bass on a rainy spring day Or sipping wine on a patio during an uncommonly warm April afternoon

Photograph courtesy Tom Firth

36

Wine not only pairs with food but with temperatures and seasons A bright sauvignon blanc can taste flat and acidic on a cold night at no fault of the wine or the drinker Some white wines are other-worldly at the vineyard tasting room in the summer but fall flat when you pull them out for dinner guests in the winter

The change in taste is likely due to a number of factors Anatomically it is your sinus cavities creating the change Higher atmospheric pressures allow your nose to pick out subtle aromas while lower pressures bring out a winersquos acidity and harsh tannins CO2 degasses from liquid at low pressure leaving wines dull and flat too

Serving temperature can greatly affect a winersquos aromatics white wines chilled to near-freezing have dull aromas (Tip allow the bottle a half hour on the counter before popping the cork This will allow the aromatics to warm up enhancing the flavour)

Lastly your own palate will be partial to different flavours depending on sun snow wind and sleet but as a rule of thumb higher alcohol white wines (approximately 13 percent or more) will warm the soul and pair best with cooler weather

Here are some wine selections to go for when it is not too hot and not too cold so you can choose a pairing thatrsquos just right

Fiano

Yoursquoll notice that many of the best white wines for cold weather are grown in hot places Hot climates mean a longer growing season more sugar which leads to higher alcohol and often more robust and tropical flavours All of this is true for fiano - seldom grown outside of Campania in southern Italy Fiano produces age-worthy wines which are rich nutty and delicious

Feudi Di San Gregorio 2014 Campania Fiano di Avellino Italy A beautiful floral bouquet with candied lemon followed by honey-coated hazelnuts on the palate Worth cellaring for a few seasons The perfect dance partner for poultry CSPC +708589 $33

Viognier

Viognier is a white varietal that is best consumed at slightly higher temperatures A chilly glass of viognier will leave you with acid maybe oak and not much else Allow it to warm and you may experience peach pear and toasted almond

Traditionally grown in the warm south of France viognier is often a higher alcohol white wine with rich tropical flavours The heat of the alcohol with tropical flavours and lower acid makes viognier the perfect wine to sip while watching a late spring snowfall

Paul Mas 2014 Languedoc-Roussillon Viognier France Brimming with apricot almond lemon and ripe peach Contains hints of warming oak Pair with something savoury baked brie or spinach-filled puff pastry CSPC + 740978 $17

Dry Roseacute

There is so much more to be had from roseacute than white zinfandel And no itrsquos not just a mix of red and white wine The best roseacute is made from red skinned grapes that only sit on their skins for up to a day and a half to borrow colour and flavour then are fermented and processed

Refined examples of roseacute wines are often dry and have deep aromas of red fruits mild tannins and are savoury instead of sweet The French and Spanish craft great examples of dry roseacutes that are either a single varietal or a blend of grapes such as mourvegravedre grenache syrah or tempranillo

Muga Roseacute 2014 Rioja Grenache Viura and Tempranillo Spain A tamed Rioja Orange blossom woven together with strawberry and a palate of cherry and savoury soft cheese Ideal for charcuterie CSPC + 710261 $16

Orange Wine

Never heard of orange wine A commercial demand for natural wines has fostered a resurgence in ancient wine making practices While roseacute wines are reds that have been produced using white wine making practices orange wines are created from white grapes submitted to maceration and allowed to sit on the skins before fermentation the same practice employed in red winemaking

Unlike any white you have tasted orange wines are full-bodied have mild tannins and deep flavours - the characteristics that allow red wines to bring warmth to cool nights A must try for any wine buff

Allow the bottle a half hour on the counter

before popping the cork

The Bicicleta wines are characterized by their fruity expression and for offering more than

the traditional strains a clear example of this range`s innovation style and creativity

Cono Sur Vineyards amp Winery ConoSurVineyards ConoSurWinesconosurcom

The brewhouse at Wild Rose

Jaclynrsquos first passion was winemaking Shersquos worked in vineyards cellars and restaurants Currently she is a writer who daylights as an environmental engineer She believes that a good life like a good wine is not complete without balance

Nichol 2013 Naramata Pinot Gris Canada A Canadian example of orange wine with backbone Flavours of caramel apple roast nuts orange rind and peach CSPC +504159 $31

Oaked chardonnay

In and out with popular palates oak and chardonnay have been partners for a long time Oak paired with chardonnay can bring out butter richness toasted vanilla tree fruit and in the best examples shimmering minerality That is because oak aging is often accompanied by a malolactic fermentation process that smooths out rigid acids into lactic acid - the acid found in milk

Chardonnay is a grape of many talents and encounters a great diversity of production styles It is oaked examples that pair best with pensive rainy days They are full-bodied warming and complex

Wente Morning Fog 2014 Livermore Valley (California) Chardonnay USA Half oak-aged and malolactic-fermented half crisp and fresh this chardonnay brings together green apple vanilla and toasted oak A friend to cream sauce and roast chicken CSPC +175430 $18

In a province of mutable weather let your wine choices be as varied as the ever changing winds Cheers and herersquos to refined full-bodied cool-weather wines

38

Once yoursquore done with your magazine cover shoot like we did this month or prepping for dinner and have all of those odds and ends just sitting on the cutting board - you know carrot ends onion skins tips of celery stalks you get the point - donrsquot toss lsquoem

Instead place them into a large ziploc bag and straight into the freezer After a couple of weeks yoursquoll likely have four full freezer bags of vegetable bits ready to be turned into broth and herersquos how you do it

Making a big batch of vegetable broth doesnrsquot always mean a trip to the grocery store All you need to do is save those scraps This is a handy trick I learned years ago courtesy of Bon Appetit

No-Waste Vegetable Broth

by DAN CLAPSON

Odds And Ends BrothYields 8 cups (2 L)

12 cups (3 L) water4 full ziploc bags of vegetable trimmings1 yellow onion quartered4 cloves garlicAromatics of choice (I usually toss a couple of rosemary and thyme sprigs in there)To taste Salt and pepper

1 Place all ingredients in a large pot and bring to a boil on medium-high heat

2 Reduce to medium heat and let simmer uncovered for 1frac12 hours

3 Strain season to taste with salt and pepper and use as desired

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$1 oysters every night

9 pm - close Sunday-thursday 11 pm - close friday amp saturday

40

Salentein 2012 Reserve Chardonnay Uco Valley Argentina

Very very enjoyable chardonnay blowing me away with complexity varietal character and fine balance between oak lees and fruit Toffee baked apple tangerine and a little almond on the nose lead into silkily textured wine in the mouth Top shelf chardonnay that might be great with lobster tails mussels or poultry Around $20 CSPC +779479

Rutini 2013 Cabernet Malbec Mendoza Argentina

An exceptionally well put together blend - if you want rich berry fruits lots of body but maybe not tons of varietal characters from the individual components Lifted and bright fruits make for a very enjoyable glass Simply perfect for your next barbecue a roast or just chilling out with friends and family $26-30 CSPC +776822

Vinecol 2014 Organic Malbec Mendoza Argentina Fair Trade organic and vegan along with a good price is it still good Piles of fresh fruits (think smashed raspberries) with plenty of spice and soft herb-leaf aromas There are plenty of malbec flavours on the palate too Good for any day of the week with just a little tension between fruit tannin and acid it might be best with pub style burgers pulled pork or sausages About $16 CSPC +755296

Argentina is so much more than malbec While such a noble grape has found its best home in the high altitude vineyards of Argentina there is a lot going on with other grapes as well

Making The Case For Argentina

by TOM FIRTH

This massive country nestled up against the Andes mountains has a range of growing conditions suited to a number of grapes From Salta in the north to Patagonia in the south plenty of interesting wines are available here - many reasonably priced and of excellent quality So yes there are some

malbecs on these pages but please do try some of the other grapes and blends coming from Argentina too

Be sure to crack open a bottle of malbec on ldquoWorld Malbec Dayrdquo April 17 - who knows it might be nice enough to barbecue too

Photograph courtesy Tom Firth

41

Manos Negras 2011 Stone Soil Select Mendoza Argentina Quite new to the market this is a pretty enjoyable version of Argentinarsquos flagship grape Loads of blue fruit and raspberries with spices galore and a little compost Rich flavours lead to a lengthy spicy finish Yes please Bring to a barbecue if you can $21 CSPC +630541

Zuccardi 2012 Zeta Mendoza Argentina

A malbec-cabernet sauvignon blend that is also a blend of two different Mendoza appellations La Consulta and Gualtallary Deep and abundant fruit aromas with liquorice root and a touch of blueberry preserves Excellent balance of flavours on the palate too with the right structure and tannin for aging if desired Enjoy with a prime rib or even meaty pasta dishes or game $50-52 CSPC +740270

Zuccardi 2012 ldquoEmmardquo Bonarda Mendoza Argentina

In my humble opinion one of the finest bonardas coming out of Argentina Notes of coffee bean and espresso complement cherry and blackberry fruits with healthy balanced tannins to stand up to the tart fruits Delicious for sure enjoy at your next barbecue $40 CSPC +758407

Luigi Bosca 2011 Cabernet-Malbec Mendoza Argentina

A wonderfully earthy and savoury blend with plenty of tobacco spice leather and yes lots of fruit too The earthy flavours work well with the big dark chocolate flavours and weighty tannins Drink now or through 2020 or so - with a steak naturally $22-24 CSPC +766010

Trivento 2013 Golden Reserve Malbec Lujan de Cuyo Argentina While there is a trend to see a lot of premium malbecs move away from oak presence this one is a bold smooth and delicious example that is seeing about a year of oak All those berry fruits plums and herb notes malbec is known for along with the smoothness that only oak brings Kick back relax maybe cook up some steaks - enjoy About $24 CSPC +711402

Trivento 2014 Malbec Reserve Mendoza Argentina Nearly unbeatable for good malbec at a great price itrsquos rich and chocolatey on the nose with big fruits and oak tones too Mild garrigue notes or dried herb flavours with plenty of fruit and tannins - still showing a fine sense of balance Enjoy with beef $14 CSPC +730714

Luigi Bosca 2011 De Sangre Mendoza Argentina A blend of cabernet sauvignon merlot and syrah that manages to pull out the best of each varietal Earthy and slightly smoky with good fruits and plenty of versatility Tannins are well-placed against the fruits with a long smooth finish Irsquove been a fan of this wine year after year Good to keep a couple on hand in the cellar About $29 CSPC +745106

Salentein 2012 Numina Gran Corte Uco Valley Argentina A malbec-dominated Bordeaux blend this stunner is all about ripe fruits cedar pepper cherries and plum with a little tealeaf and the right amount of tannins Very very well balanced and like any great wine think about some food to go with it Beef tenderloin slow cooked meats or maybe at your next asadohellip About $40 CSPC +764706

Colonia Las Liebres 2013 Bonarda Mendoza Argentina Bear with me here - a fine bonarda with plenty of earthy smoky aromas leading to rubber charred cherries and cocoa Some pretty prominent tannins to be found as well but wow does it all come together A wine that just begs for duck with cranberries or maybe some kebabshellip$20 CSPC +773381

42

Open That Bottleby LINDA GARSON photography by INGRID KUENZEL

ldquoIf you work in a place and yoursquore miserable I donrsquot know if there is a dollar amount that can be attached to that The work that yoursquore doing has to be rewarding and challengingrdquo says Karen KhoGrowing up in Niagara Falls in a Philippino SpanishChinese family Kho was surrounded by food and drinks with an open door policy that has had a huge influence on the person she is today - an

entertainer who likes to make people feel welcome ldquoMy parents wanted me to be a lawyer there was definitely an encouragement to use my voice for goodrdquo she explains ldquoAnd I still think I help people but in a different way a very social wayrdquo

Graduating Western University with a political science degree in 2000 Kho spent a year travelling and living in Australia before taking a leap of faith and moving to Calgary Here she studied wine with the International Sommeliers Guild and WSET but says her real education was a job she adored working in the wine trade at BIN 905 in tandem with running wine programs for CRMR restaurants It was only when the opportunity came to create the wine program at Vin Room six years later that Kho leapt at the challenge of a new idea for the city and spent four happy years there

Eventually she and her partner decided to stretch their wings and went to Vancouver where Kho embarked on a six-month culinary course at the Pacific Institute of Culinary Arts ticking off another box on her bucket list ldquoI wanted a greater understanding of technique in the kitchen and I wanted an understanding of what service on a very basic level would look like if I ever owned my own place and ever had to be the person who filled inrdquo she says ldquoI feel if I was ever in a place that needed someone to chop onions Irsquom your womanrdquo she laughs

A year later the pair came back with the idea of eventually opening their own business in Calgary ldquoThe support we get from this community is heartfelt and this is a city of opportunity People with the right concept are seeing a lot of great success itrsquos still our game planrdquo she says Meanwhile Kho applied only to Teatro where she is now Group Service Director

ldquoI wanted to work at a place that had a challenging wine program and had a level of service with high expectations and where professional service teams

applyrdquo she says ldquoItrsquos pretty romantic to work for a company that has been built on a foundation of service Successful businesses in the restaurant industry get the grand picture which is the moments that yoursquore creating for people and I like to be a part of thatrdquo she adds

So what bottle is Kho saving for a special occasion

Paying homage to her time at BIN 905 Kho explains ldquoI have a bottle of 1996 Chateau Mouton Rothschild which was given to me with some very kind words on my last day at BIN Irsquove always just appreciated my time there it was where I learned the vernacular of wine and itrsquos my first job where I really saw the benefits of serving people with intentionrdquo She continues ldquoI always see it thankfully as the stepping-stone to a broader wine profession and eventually to the position that I have now It was given to me by very close friends that Irsquom still friends with to this dayrdquo

And when is she planning to open the wine

ldquoWhen (partner) Dave and I open our own restaurantrdquo Kho says This isnrsquot something that something that will happen tomorrow but fortunately the wine will last until theyrsquore ready

Charcoal-grilled prime cutsHand-muddled caipirinhas50+ salad bar optionsThree distinct private rooms

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10

A sure-fire favourite dish at Una Pizza + Wine Kale Caesar Salad is much requested It has all the elements of a perfect salad crunchy prosciutto and breadcrumbs and chewy kale leaves and egg for texture with grated cheese and a creamy plate-licking dressing to pull it all together Many thanks to Una Executive Chef Jen Pena for sharing it with us

Unarsquos Kale Caesar SaladServes 4

Salad2 Tbs (30 mL) olive oil plus more if needed4 thin slices prosciutto juliennedfrac12 cup panko breadcrumbsMaldon salt and black pepper2 bunches kale leaves only julienned1 cup grated Pecorino cheese2 hard boiled eggs peeled and halved (optional)

Caesar Dressing1 clove garlic4 anchovy fillets1 Tbs (15 mL) Dijon mustardZest and juice of 1 lemonfrac12 cup (120 mL) olive oil

1 Using a fork crush garlic and anchovies against the inside of a large bowl Add mustard lemon juice zest and olive oil and whisk until well emulsified Pour the dressing into a glass jar and set aside

2 Line a plate with paper towels Heat olive oil in a medium frying pan on high Add prosciutto and pan-fry until crispy about 5 minutes Transfer to the paper towel-lined plate and set aside

3 Reduce the heat to low and add panko crumbs to the pan adding a little oil if required Toast until golden about 2 minutes Scrape the panko into a small bowl season to taste with salt and set aside

4 Place kale in a large bowl pour in the dressing and toss well Season with salt and black pepper Transfer to a serving

bowl and top with grated Pecorino cheese toasted panko and crispy prosciutto Serve with the boiled eggs if desired

If therersquos a dish in a restaurant that yoursquod love to know how to make let us know at culinairemagazinecacontact-us and wersquoll do our very best to track it down for you

Off The Menu

culinairemagazinecaaba sponsors

Registrations are arriving already With the success of last yearrsquos competition

2016 will be an even greater competition this year Visit culinairemagazinecaaba

to enter your wines beers and spirits for the 2016 Alberta Beverage Awards

Have You Entered Your Wine Beers And Spirits Yet

For more information contact competition director Tom Firth tomculinairemagazineca

Registration Deadline July 1 | Judging Takes Place July 18-19-20

12

Tricks Chefs Tipsstory by ROBYN MACLEAN photography by INGRID KUENZEL Knives

The most important tool in any kitchen without a doubt is a good knife As Iron Chef Masahari Morimoto would say ldquoa kitchen without a knife is not a kitchenrdquo

I couldnrsquot agree more

For professional cooks knives are practically an extension of their hands and probably better cared for But a quality knife is just as essential for home cooks If yoursquore even slightly inclined to cook at home at the very least you should own a classic 20 cm chefrsquos knife ndash the go-to knife for the brunt of daily kitchen tasks

But itrsquos certainly not the only knife you should have in your arsenal Slicing dicing filleting butchering and julienning become a whole lot easier when you use the right knife for the job and these three Calgary chefs share their favourite model and a recipe to help point you in the right direction

䈀甀礀 琀栀攀 琀漀瀀 栀愀氀昀 漀昀 愀渀礀 戀漀琀琀氀攀 漀昀 眀椀渀攀 戀攀琀眀攀攀渀 瀀洀ⴀ㘀瀀洀 愀渀搀 最攀琀 琀栀攀 戀漀琀琀漀洀 琀栀攀 昀甀渀 栀愀氀昀⤀ 昀漀爀 䘀刀䔀䔀

䘀刀

䔀䔀

䴀伀一䐀䄀夀 ⴀ 䘀刀䤀䐀䄀夀 瀀洀 ⴀ㘀瀀洀

瀀爀椀挀攀 戀漀琀琀氀攀猀 漀昀 眀椀渀攀㔀 戀漀琀琀氀攀猀 漀昀 戀攀攀爀㔀 栀椀最栀戀愀氀氀猀

䠀䄀䰀䘀 䘀刀䔀䔀 圀䤀一䔀

㔀 㔀 Ⰰ 㠀 䄀 瘀 攀 匀 圀 Ⰰ 䌀 愀 氀 最 愀 爀 礀 Ⰰ 䄀 䈀 吀 倀 䜀

Pacific Albacore Tuna CrudoServes 4

335 g Pacific albacore tuna 1 honey crisp or granny smith apple 4 cloves of garlic thinly sliced frac12 tsp ground espelette chili frac14 cup (60 mL) sunflower oil frac14 cup (60 mL) flax oil 1 Tbs lightly toasted flax seed 8 pickled string beans (keep some pickling liquid)4 slices of prosciutto 1 Tbs (1 mL) rice vinegar Pea shoots Good quality finishing salt like fleur de sel

1 Slice garlic as thinly as possible and combine with sunflower oil in a small saucepan Heat slowly and allow the garlic to fry until golden brown Remove from heat and add the ground espelette chili

2 Allow the oil to steep for 15-20 minutes at room temperature Once cool add flax oil

Chef Matthias Fong

3 Slice 8 pickled string beans thinly into rounds

4 Dice the apple into 1 cm cubes and add a splash of the pickled string bean liquid as well as rice vinegar add to the sliced string beans

5 Set up 4 plates Slice the tuna into frac34 cm thick slices and lay out 85 g per plate Using the finishing salt season the tuna to taste

6 Pull the prosciutto slices apart into bite-sized pieces and scatter them with the tuna slices

7 Drizzle 1 Tbs (15 mL) flax oil over each plate with a few slices of the fried garlic from the oil on each plate

8 Scatter the apple and string bean mixture over the slices of tuna being sure to spoon some of the pickling liquid from the bowl over the tuna slices Finish with pea shoot tips and toasted flax seed

Chef Matthias FongRiver Cafeacute

A good quality knife is made from high quality steel usually German or Japanese which will stay sharp for a long period of time and has the potential to last a lifetime

Owning a stainless steel knife versus one made from high carbon steel is also extremely beneficial in any kitchen Itrsquos easy for a knife to end up in the sink which can leave non-stainless varieties rusted and ruined

ldquoRegardless of style or brand itrsquos never safe to let knives go dull Dull knives lead to excessive force and can easily slip off the product yoursquore cuttingrdquo cautions Fong

ldquoTo properly care for a knife I recommend investing in some sharpening stone andor a ceramic honing rod which prolongs the life of your knife and requires less sharpening I also suggest signing up for a class to learn the art of sharpening or just take your knives directly to the folks at Knifewear and theyrsquoll gladly maintain for yourdquo

ldquoMy go-to knife is the Tojiro Flash 825-inch slicer Itrsquos short in length making it versatile for a variety of uses I use it for the majority of my prep work but itrsquos ideal for slicing and carving The narrow blade allows for paper thin slicing on delicate fish like tunardquo says Fong

ldquoI favour the Tojiro line of knives because they offer stainless Japanese steel thatrsquos easy to sharpen and repairrdquo

14

Chef Kai SalimaumlkiThe Block

Chef Salimaumlki is all about a great multipurpose knife ldquoI love the Masakage Kumo Petty 150 mm knife Itrsquos ideal for numerous tasks in the kitchen but I especially love it for chopping fine herbs Itrsquos lightweight and has a remarkably sharp edge that has chives bouncing from under it in perfect uniform circlesrdquo he explains

The Petty knife is ideal for smaller jobs such as slicing shallots cutting herbs and boning smaller proteins And because of its size itrsquos also a great alternative for those who feel uncomfortable wielding a larger heavier chefrsquos knife

ldquoI would recommend this knife for the home cook as it can replace many utility knives people seem to collect in drawers And of course most importantly I recommend proper love attention and care to ensure you keep this tool functioning for a very long timerdquo

You simply canrsquot do your best without your equipment at its best

Chef Jorel ZielkeBrasserie Kensington and Winebar

ldquoIrsquom a huge fan of my 10frac34-inch MAC chefrsquos knife This multipurpose knife is modeled after the standard French chefrsquos kniferdquo says Zielke

Sirloin Beef TartareServes 2

335 g AAA beef sirloin2 Tbs (30 mL) grainy mustard cup minced shallots Tbs minced gherkins2 Tbs cup finely chopped parsley Worcestershire sauce to tasteHot sauce to tasteCold pressed canola oil to taste 1 egg yolk in tact with all whites removedPinch of fresh grated horseradishSalt and pepper

1 Finely dice the sirloin removing any connective tissue or silver-skin Do not trim off the fat Pass over the meat several times with your knife

2 Mix in mustard shallots gherkins parsley Worcestershire hot sauce oil and salt and pepper

3 Note All garnish measurements are suggestions as tartares vary to personal taste Add enough oil to moisten dish but be careful not to oversaturate

4 Top tartare with raw egg yolk and freshly grated horseradish

5 Serve with anything you can pick it up with such as crostini crackers fresh bread fresh heirloom tomato or crisp lettuce

ldquoI canrsquot emphasize enough the importance of respecting your tools by keeping them clean and properly functioning to avoid safety issues You simply canrsquot do your best without your equipment at its bestrdquo

ldquoA sharp knife is key when dicing raw meat like in my recipe belowrdquo he continues ldquoKeep in mind that itrsquos not firm like an onion or a stick of celery Meat shifts and moves as you prepare it so itrsquos important to slow down and take your time when preparing a dish like tartarerdquo

Chef Jorel Zielke

Chef Kai Salimaumlki

15

Robyn is a public relations professional and occasional writer with a passion for food and beverages Despite city hopping from her home in Calgary to Anchorage AK you can still find her on Twitter robynalana

Braised Brisket with Carrot Puree and Napa Cabbage Serves 4

900 ndash 1125 g brisket5 carrots peeled and sliced 12-16 baby potatoes 1 head of Napa cabbage julienned5 parsnips peeled and sliced 2 tomatoes quartered2 yellow onions quartered1 yellow onion thinly sliced6 sprigs of thyme4 sprigs of rosemary 6 whole cloves of garlic3-4 Tbs butter1 Tbs black peppercornsCanola oil4 cups (1 L) beef stock or water1 cup (240 mL) of milkHoney to tasteSalt and pepper 1 Season brisket liberally with salt and pepper (you can braise whole or cut it into smaller chunks)

2 In a large sauteacute pan heat canola oil until it has reached its smoking point Sear the meat on all sides until golden brown and caramelized

3 Remove from pan and place in a large ovenproof baking dish covering with beef stock (or water) Add peppercorns two sprigs of rosemary 4 sprigs of thyme whole garlic tomatoes and the quartered onions

4 Cover with tin foil and braise for approximately for 3-3frac12 hours at 325ordm F or until fork tender

5 Remove from the braising juices spoon off any excess fat and strain juices into a saucepot reduce on a medium heat until a nice thick sauce has formed

6 For carrot puree add two tablespoons of butter in a heavy bottomed saucepan and sauteacute sliced onion and diced carrots together over medium heat Yoursquore not looking to brown the vegetables but rather simmer in the butter

7 After 10 minutes cover the mixture with milk add 2 sprigs of thyme and season with salt Simmer until soft and tender

8 Strain the carrots and reserve the milk throw out the thyme sprigs Place the carrots and onions in a blender and slowly add the milk until a nice puree is achieved check seasoning and thickness and adjust if necessary Set aside 9 Sauteacute julienned cabbage in a tablespoon of butter season with salt and add 2 tablespoons of water Reduce heat and cook for 5 minutes stirring frequently

ldquoI recommend proper love attention and care to ensure you keep this tool functioning for a

very long timerdquo

10 Toss sliced carrots and parsnips with honey chopped rosemary and thyme season with salt and pepper and roast in the oven for an hour at 325ordm F or until tender 11 Boil the baby potatoes in heavily salted water until fork tender

12 To serve set up 4 plates and spoon carrot puree on the bottom of the plate in a circle Arrange potatoes carrots and parsnips around the plate place Napa cabbage in the middle and place brisket on top Spoon the reduced braising liquid over the meat

16

As Nemeth chats with customers other vendors and friends who stop by her enthusiastic greetings and joyous laughter are hard to ignore mdash this is a woman who clearly likes people In fact she loves them Warm hearty and full of surprises the words used to describe Nemethrsquos personality can just as easily be used to describe her soup

The Primal Soup Co is a fairly new entity mdash the frozen containers of soup with flavours like Mango Butternut Squash Spinach Artichoke and Feta and Thai Coconut Chicken first showed up at the Market on MacLeod (then the

Going To MarketPrimal Soup Company Finds Its Homeby ELIZABETH CHORNEY-BOOTH photography by INGRID KUENZEL

If you happen to spy Margaret Nemeth at one of her Primal Soup Company booths at the Crossroads Market or the Market on MacLeod yoursquoll immediately see that the energetic atmosphere of a Farmersrsquo Market suits her

Kingsland Farmersrsquo Market) in 2011 mdash but Nemeth is not new to the food and beverage game

Long-time Calgarians may recognize the Primal name and the taste of Nemethrsquos homemade soups from the now defunct Primal Grounds Cappuccino Bar and Eatery in Killarney which Nemeth owned and ran from 1996 through to 2010

Nemeth opened that business after a career in oil and gas and the stand-alone cafeacute was a solid success for her Not only did it serve up great coffee Nemeth quickly made a name for herself with her homemade soup creations All homemade and gluten-free (due to Nemethrsquos own dietary restrictions) Primal Grounds was catering to people with gluten intolerances long before it became fashionable

ldquoWe were pioneers and it was so much funrdquo Nemeth says ldquoThere were lots of ups and downs but it was a good liferdquo

ldquoWhen yoursquore in a market you have to give people reasons to stoprdquo

Margaret Nemeth

17

Nemeth sold the cafeacute when a real estate developer made her an offer she couldnrsquot refuse but she still felt the urge to be around people and feed them So she set up shop in the markets - first the Market on MacLeod and then in January of 2015 she opened a stall in the rebranded Crossroads Market

Elizabeth Chorney-Booth is a Calgary-based writer and co-founderco-editor of RollingSpooncom and Wapawekkacom She enjoys exploring the connection between music and food through interviews with musicians and chefs

Primal Soup also sells lunch items like gourmet macaroni and cheese sandwiches and homemade pies and pastries so that market wanderers can stop by the stall and grab a full lunch while perusing the soup cooler for something to take home for a future meal

ldquoWhen yoursquore in a market you have to give people reasons to stoprdquo Nemeth says ldquoSo we offer things to go with the soup which also gives them ideas for what they can do at home Or sometimes theyrsquoll come for a sandwich and then theyrsquoll look at the soups You have to give people reasons to be in this spacerdquo

ldquoWe were pioneers and it was so much funrdquo

Whatever Nemeth is doing it seems to be working Between the two farmersrsquo markets and specialty retailers like the Market on 17th Sunnyside Market and SPUD delivery boxes Primal Soup Co sells over 1000 containers of soup every week Nemeth develops the recipes herself but has hired a full-time chef to keep up with the demand Personality and strategic stall locations in busy farmersrsquo markets alone isnrsquot enough to move that kind of volume of soup mdash while Nemeth has made smart business decisions over the course of Primalrsquos various incarnations the key to her success really lies in the product itself Everything is made from scratch without the aid of pre-bought soup bases and Nemeth uses seasonal ingredients (only 20 to 30 of her 50 soup varieties are ever available at any given time) supporting her neighbours at the markets when possible Her meat stocks are built from organic chicken bones Wintersrsquo turkey carcasses and duck bones from fellow market vendor Green Eggs and Ham to build a rich and delicious broth ldquoI layer my soupsrdquo Nemeth says ldquoI donrsquot just throw everything in the pot together And there has to be a twist in every one There has to be something

that you donrsquot expect mdash a surprise in every boxrdquo

To bring things full circle Nemeth has a new venture that just opened kitty corner to her Primal Soup stall in the Crossroads Market a beautiful and shiny new Primal Grounds coffee location With a long counter for people to sit at for as long as they like (Nemeth jokes that itrsquos the perfect place for bored spouses to sit while their partners shop the market) itrsquos an updated nod to what got Primal Soup started in the first place

And itrsquos also a testament to Nemethrsquos dedication to market life mdash the lack of control she has over her own hours and some other aspects arenrsquot perfect but the busyness the proximity to like-minded vendors and most of all the people she gets to interact with on a constant basis has put Nemeth exactly where she belongs ldquoYoursquore only as strong as the market is collectivelyrdquo she says ldquoItrsquos different than being a restaurant but I have to say itrsquos the funnest thing Irsquove ever donerdquo

ldquoThere has to be something that you donrsquot

expect mdash a surprise in every boxrdquo

18

Soup Kitchenstory and photography by DAN CLAPSON

The fresh hang-up-your-winter-jacket feeling is finally in the air ndash and that my friends is a wonderful thing Gone are the days where wersquove looked forward to spooning into a big bowl of creamy soup or sitting down to some chicken noodle soup to help shake off the winter sniffles These days Irsquom more concerned with light and bright flavours and less calorie-ridden meals

so I wonrsquot look completely undesirable in a swimsuit come June

Here are two great recipes that just happen to be vegan but are bursting with flavour

Serves 5 Total cook time 35 minutes

6 cups (15 L) vegetable broth1 cup (240 mL) white wine1 cup (240 mL) water2 Tbs (30 mL) tomato paste2 cups dry green lentils1 red onion halved and thinly sliced1 small fennel bulb halved and thinly sliced2 tsp (10 mL) maple syrup1 tsp dried oreganofrac12 tsp ground turmericfrac12 tsp chili flakesfrac12 tsp ground cinnamon1 pinch nutmeg2 cups thinly sliced red Swiss chardTo taste salt and pepper

1 Place broth wine water and tomato paste in a large pot and bring to a simmer on medium-high heat Add lentils and cook for 15 minutes

2 Add onion fennel maple syrup and spices and continue to cook for 15 minutes

Spiced Green Lentil and Chard Soup

3 Add Swiss chard and cook until leaves are tender about 2-3 minutes Season to taste with salt and pepper and serve

Dan Clapson is a freelance food writer and columnist in Calgary When hersquos not writing about Canadarsquos amazing culinary scene he is likely listening to 80s rock or 90s boy bands Follow him on twitter dansgoodside

Spinach and Cashew Soup with Poblano and Scallion Salsa

Serves 4 Total cook time 30 minutes not including cashew soak time

Soup1frac12 cups roasted cashews2 cups (500 mL) water4 cups (1 L) vegetable broth4 cups cooked spinach1 Tbs (15 mL) apple cider vinegar1 Tbs (15 mL) maple syrupfrac12 tsp cayenne peppersalt and pepper to tastecashew butter for garnish optional

1 Place cashews and water in a container cover and let sit on counter overnight

2 Combine cashews water and remaining soup ingredients in a blender and pureacutee until very smooth

3 Pour contents of blender through a fine mesh strainer into a medium pot Bring to a simmer on medium-high heat and cook for 15 minutes Season to taste with salt and pepper and keep warm on stove until ready to serve

4 Place a couple of spoonfuls of the salsa into each bowl and ladle soup around it Add a couple of dollops of cashew butter for a little extra richness

Salsa1 large poblano pepper halved and seeds removed1 bunch scallions2 Tbs (30 mL) canola oil2 Tbs fresh mint roughly chopped1 tsp (5 mL) lemon juicefrac12 tsp cane sugarfrac12 tsp chili flakessalt and pepper to taste

1 Preheat oven to 400ordm F

2 Place poblano halves and scallions on a baking sheet drizzle with oil and roast until slightly charred about 15-18 minutes

3 Remove from oven allow to cool slightly then give them a rough chop

4 Add to a bowl with remaining ingredients and toss to combine Season liberally with salt and pepper

20

Photograph courtesy California Wine Institute

Ever since Napa Valley cabernet sauvignons and chardonnays bested their more historic counterparts from Bordeaux and Burgundy in the now-famous Judgment of Paris tasting in 1976 California and its flagship region have carried the torch for the bold dense fruity lushly oaked wines that brought them worldwide fame

Forty years later this sun-drenched style of wines remains both unapologetically enjoyable and wildly popular and Napa is on the bucket list of any devoted wine tourist But as tastes and trends start to evolve away from a focus on power and concentration towards greater elegance and food-friendliness winemakers in California are again taking to the frontier gravitating towards the statersquos physical and climatic extremes to explore new boundaries of flavour and complexity Californiarsquos cooler corners

California Coolby PETER VETSCH

California is a land of frontiers dangling on the edge of the Pacific home of the Gold Rush and epicentre of the New Worldrsquos insurgence onto the global wine scene

are fast becoming its second face in the world of wine

Sonoma County north of San Francisco and just west of Napa is probably Californiarsquos second best-known region almost equally recognized for its cabernets chardonnays and zinfandels The largest subregion in the county taking up almost a third of its total area is the western Sonoma Coast too expansive at 500000 acres to have a distinct identity

However the western border of this appellation a razorrsquos edge straddling the ocean locally known as the ldquotruerdquo Sonoma Coast showcases the regionrsquos true character - extreme viticulture wet cool and always windy at elevations up to 2000 feet balanced on the San Andreas Fault with many vines growing above the fog line and constantly exposed to the throes of the Pacific Pinot noir takes on a unique expression here on low-yielding vines in the cool above the rest of Sonoma offering both remarkable purity of fruit and astonishing acidity and structure

Pinot is also predominant in the relatively new Santa Rita Hills subregion of the Santa Ynez Valley located an hour and a half northwest of Los Angeles and similarly perched right alongside the ocean The maritime influence dominates the microclimate and counteracts the California sun with fog and cool breezes to the point where this coastal spot becomes a near ideal substitute for chilly Burgundy Here the core Burgundian varietals of pinot noir and chardonnay thrive in a particularly striking edgy way

Santa Ynez is the only wine region in the western hemisphere where the arearsquos defining mountain range runs east-west instead of north-south creating a sort of maritime wind tunnel that sucks cold Pacific air eastward This leads to some of the largest diurnal (day to night) temperature shifts in North America and allows inland grapes ripening in the scorching daytime heat to recharge and maintain acidity at night This special geological feature allows a wide range of reds in Santa Ynez to be juicy but still structured bold yet balanced from cabernet and merlot to syrah and grenache

Halfway between the Sonoma Coast to the north and the Santa Rita Hills to the south along yet another coastline

California can comfortably both provide continuity

and defy stereotype

Wine Picks

Peter is a local lawyer by day and wine writer by night maintaining his own wine blog at popandpourca He is always on the lookout for the next way to experience wine and the next good bottle to try

A LITTLE SIBLING RIVALRY NEVER HURT ANYBODY

FOUR SETTINGS ONE PHILOSOPHY crmrcom338 - 17th Avenue SW

c i l a n t ro

747 Lake Bonavista Dr SE113 - 8th Avenue SW 340 - 17th Avenue SW

Sequoia Grove 2012 Cabernet Sauvignon (Napa Valley)Textbook cabernet from Naparsquos heart of Rutherford with deep black fruit mint and cedarhellip and a survivable price tag CSPC +740382 $56

Hartford Court Landrsquos Edge Vineyard Pinot Noir (Sonoma Coast)The ferocity of the Sonoma Coast somehow creates the picture of elegance in this juicy yet delicate pinot CSPC +717210 $60

Domaine de la Cote 2013 Pinot Noir (Sta Rita Hills) Seriously pushes the boundaries picked almost insanely early for low-alcohol herbal pomegranate and rhubarb acidic tension and energy CSPC +761893 $58

Alice May Crosswinds Syrah (Santa Ynez Valley) A syrahviognier Cote Rotie-style co-ferment that matches Cali ripeness with surprising verve and delicacy CSPC +761131 $28

Ridge 2013 Geyserville (Santa Cruz Mountains)This will change your expectations of zinfandel A zin-heavy field blend it combines the best of its mountain altitude and the California sun CSPC +426379 $55

just south of San Jose the wineries of the Santa Cruz Mountains prove again that those seeking to make modern moderate wines in California head both west and up The highest vineyards in Santa Cruz despite being just miles from the ocean are at 2600 feet this significant altitude and the cool Pacific climate results in chiseled wines with controlled ripeness and serious staying power

The region is both expansive and miniscule with only 1500 of its 480000 acres currently planted to grapes and its very-California plantings (cabernet chardonnay pinot noir zinfandel and merlot) all take on an Old World character and rusticity from its rugged terrain and stony mineral-laden soils Despite the challenges associated with growing grapes on a cool rock face Santa Cruz is a state leader in sustainable growing practices

The friendly sunny face of California wine is surely here to stay but Santa Cruz Santa Ynez and the Sonoma Coast are permanent proof that the state is readily capable of more than one expression With its range of climate and terrain California can comfortably both provide continuity and defy stereotype

22

En GardeA Beginnerrsquos Guide To Knives And Their Usesby ANNA BROOKS

Itrsquos difficult to imagine that sharp little number thatrsquos slicing away to the rhythm of your favourite cooking music (or to the beating of child-size fists hungry for dinner) was more often used for combat not chopping carrots

Despite King Louis XIVrsquos decree that the tips of knives be ground down to reduce violence in the mid-1600s kitchen knives still (for quite pointed reasons) make popular murder weapons

But we wonrsquot get into grisly stories of guts and gore here Whether yoursquore a chef extraordinaire or the person whose knife knowledge goes as far as cutting

vegetables with a steak knife there are some things everyone should know about knives

The first major thing we must insist upon is putting down that expensive 14-piece knife set As most knife experts can attest to three main knives can cover almost all the work that a layman cook needs to do in the kitchen

23

Three main knives can cover almost all the work that a layman cook needs

to do in the kitchen

Chefrsquos Knife Your standard knife for mincing and slicing vegetables and meat a chefrsquos knife is typically 20-25 cm long but can range all the way up to 36 cm

Luke Pickett from Knifewear is a sight to see wielding some wickedly sharp

handcrafted Japanese models but despite their carnivorous look Pickett said therersquos really nothing to fear

ldquoThere are a lot of people who are scared of really large knivesrdquo Pickett said ldquoBut having good quality kitchen equipment will make your life easierrdquo

For beginners a standard 20 cm chefrsquos knife (although Pickett said blade length is purely based on personal preference) is best to start with but a Japanese Santoku knife mdash an elegant slightly smaller version of a chefrsquos knife mdash will certainly get the job er meal done

Paring KnifeOn the other side of the knife spectrum is the pocket-sized paring knife (note carrying knives in pockets not recommended)

Regan Johnson assistant manager at The Cookbook Co said besides what the individual using a steak knife to cut everything might think the small intricate work required of a paring knife (such as peeling and trimming) should not be done on a cutting board

ldquoParing is anything you can be doing in the air mdash yoursquore not ever supposed to use a paring knife on a boardrdquo she explained

Johnson added that for someone like herself who does almost as much blade-wielding as a samurai she also recommends a utility knife

which is a hybrid of a chefrsquos knife and a paring knife

ldquoI reach for my utility knife a lotrdquo she said ldquoItrsquos got that shape of a paring knife but is longer Itrsquos just for those things in between that you donrsquot need your giant chefrsquos knife forrdquo

Bread KnifeThe last of the big three is of course a bread knife Have you ever tried to cut a loaf of bread with a straight blade Not so easy (or safe) a task

Itrsquos sometimes difficult to do but no matter the type of knife yoursquore using itrsquos important to try and slice as opposed to chopping or sawing It

is quite tempting (and often seems easier) to saw away at the crispy crust of a floured loaf of sourdough but Knifewearrsquos Pickett said sawing can

be a slippery slope to your bread knifersquos grave

ldquoIf you slice you can use the entire blade and itrsquos a lot sharper along the edgerdquo he explained ldquoItrsquos important to get a good bread knife because you canrsquot sharpen them like you can any other sort of kniferdquo

The Big Three

24

Having good quality kitchen equipment will

make your life easier

Anna Brooks is an award-winning journalist from Calgary Alberta She has worked internationally in Thailand and Africa and has been published in Metro BeatRoute Magazine and the Calgary Journal She also enjoys animal rights fantasy fiction and whiskey sours

Tips and TricksOf course you can adorn your kitchen with the countless others belonging to the knife family mdash cleavers carvers boning knives cheese knives etc mdash but if yoursquore not planning on hacking through solid bone anytime soon you probably donrsquot need to spend $200 on a meat cleaver

But there are some other knife-related implements that are important to have in your kitchen

First off a proper cutting board While plastic cutting boards are versatile and can be chucked in the dishwasher wood is really the best way to go Cutting boards are the quickest way to ruin a knife so steer clear of fancy-looking glass or granite boards mdash they are the antagonists of our story

Itrsquos also not a bad idea to have a knife honer on hand As a reminder (or for

those who had no idea what that random rod in the kitchen was used for) honers are for honing not sharpening

ldquoWith use the metal fibres in a knife edge can get bent to one side or another All yoursquore doing with honing is straightening those fibres back outrdquo Johnson from The Cookbook Co explained ldquoSharpening means yoursquore actually removing material and grinding the metal down to a finer edgerdquo

Johnson added that while you can sharpen at home she always recommends getting your knives sharpened professionally at least once a year depending on how much theyare used

Before you go back to making your lazy-day grilled cheese sandwich or that complex stew yoursquove spent hours on we just want to remind you of whatrsquos called ldquothe pinch griprdquo

Not to sound snobbish but grabbing a knife by the handle and hacking away is poor form Use your thumb and index finger to grasp the blade and then wrap your remaining fingers under the bolster of the knife Shape your other hand into a claw to protect your fingertips from accidentally getting lopped off firmly grasp the object to be cut and slice away

If this knowledge was present in the 17th century perhaps old King Louis XIV would be tipping his crown to more cooks not kitchen knife combatants

25

Times Are A Changing Unexpected Take-Outs

by LINDA GARSON and DIANA NG photography by INGRID KUENZEL

Therersquos no denying that many of our cityrsquos restaurants are feeling the effects of the current economic downturn fewer people working downtown ndash indeed fewer people working altogether and so looking to save money by eating out less means many bricks and mortar restaurants are having to get creative with ways to fully utilise their kitchens and staff

High rents exacerbate the situation so itrsquos time for Calgary restaurateurs to think outside the box and proving to be the innovative entrepreneurs that wersquore known for many are diversifying their offerings to include take-out options both raw and cooked

Catch amp The Oyster Bar launched their ldquoBuy Catchrdquo program where you can pick up fresh Ocean Wise seafood to take home and cook (complete with recipes) along with house-made clam chowder and sauces nearly two years ago There are big savings to be had over dining in with no costs for linen or staff and no expectation to tip

Here are four Calgary eateries also getting clever with take-out

programs that are not widely publicised - and may

open a few eyes

26

Centini Restaurant

Itrsquos not a cookie cutter program but the magic of Centinirsquos take-out is that you can ask the kitchen for ideas of what you should have for dinner People even text the servers for suggestions and to order Loyal customers mostly busy businessmen were asking if they catered but without the staff for such a service Centini started offering to prepare dishes for them to cook themselves

Now you can get your favourite restaurant dishes from rack of lamb with red wine demi-glace AAA Alberta beef tenderloin with Gorgonzola pan sauce and sea bass with ginger cream sauce ready to cook at home ldquoWersquore not going to open a bricks and mortar restaurant down south but our food is going thererdquo says Chevonne Centini Theyrsquore seeing pick-ups such as for people stuck at home with a new baby and even 40 people for a funeral

Boxwood

Itrsquos hard to believe that the quality of food coming from the sister restaurant to River Cafe can be had at home and we are not talking about leftovers When

People take home uncooked homemade pasta with sauce separately and even bread dough and often freeze it to cook later or pick up on a Friday evening so everything is prepared ready for Saturday dinner When buying from a restaurant yoursquore getting top quality perfectly trimmed meat everything is done for you - therersquos no shopping

around and even the parsley is chopped And as everything is custom-made all allergies are catered for too

Centini gets fish delivered once or twice every day and it may come as a surprise but with a chef garde manger that spent 15 years in Japan they have customers coming just to take out sushi

you go home to an empty fridge it feels like the only options you have are fast food or pizza Not so

Boxwoodrsquos fresh and seasonal fare is also available to take home While you wonrsquot

be able to enjoy the quaint atmosphere of the restaurant you can order anything on the menu for take out with its special offering being the whole rotisserie free-range chicken which serves two to four people for $40

Many bricks and mortar restaurants are

having to get creative with ways to fully utilise their

kitchens and staff

You will need to call a few hours ahead (the website states before 200 pm) for enough notice for the chicken but for the rest of the selection like its soups and sandwiches you can simply look up the menu online and call to place an order For a perfect night in may we suggest starting with its bison tartare then moving onto the porchetta and another main before finishing off the meal with a slice of pie

27

Gaucho

For most people the elaborate setup of Brazilian barbecue is one of its biggest attractions You may not know this and while you may not be able to take home the lively decor of Gaucho you can actually take the meal home

The spit packed tightly with freshly roasted meats the sign at the table that signals yoursquore ready for more and the roasted and caramelized pineapple that tops off the meal all contribute to the atmosphere but if all you want are the meats and sides for a hefty dinner you can certainly order the meal as a take-out

Order any of the four options (top sirloin pork loin chicken wings or mild sausage) and add three sides from the list of eight which includes a variety of salads black bean stew and rice And because you canrsquot just have one kind of meat when it comes to Brazilian barbecue you can choose additional

Safari Grill

The marinated thinly sliced BBQ short beef ribs at Safari Grill are already a must-have for those in the know but we suspect even regulars will be surprised to discover that you can pick

up uncooked ribs with your choice of seven marinades to take home and BBQ yourself

With none of the associated costs of dining in $65 buys you enough ribs for 10 people and customers actually drive

meats for $4 each Finally choose the sauce yoursquod like to accompany your meal Orders for over five people will come in a big white box and individual

orders come will in regular take-out containers For big parties do call a few hours ahead All you need to make at home is the caipirinha

from Saskatchewan to take away 10-15 lb bags of these uncooked marinated ribs Some people call and ask for them to be marinated and frozen in 5 lb bags to enjoy later as just 5-7 minutes each side on a high flame has the raw ribs ready to eat

And itrsquos not only ribs that people BBQ at home Mishkaki are skewers of marinated chicken beef and prawns and for as little as $3 each you can have a very inexpensive BBQ feast Marinated raw lamb chops are also available or ask for Samaki - a marinated whole tilapia that comes with a basting sauce to brush on You can even get uncooked samosas to cook in your oven at home

All Safari Grillrsquos regular menu can be ordered for take-out but there is no published price list for uncooked dishes so people call to order and ask - but when yoursquore picking up look out for the new jars of house-made mango and lemon pickles

28

Step By Step Go Nuts With Homemade Nutella And Waffles story and photography by NATALIE FINDLAY

There are many nutritional benefits packed into these small filberts They are rich in dietary fibre packed with folate an excellent source of vitamin E and contain mono-unsaturated fatty acids that

can help lower bad cholesterol and raise good cholesterol By making your own Nutella at home you can control the amount of sugar that is added making this delicious spread basicallyhellip a health food

Hazelnuts have a tried and true following for taking the lead role in the chocolate spread Nutella This long-standing love affair has lasted simply because they add a distinct but subtle flavour to the chocolate Truly a match that is better together than apart

These delicious and super-easy waffles make a great base for your homemade Nutella With the addition of ground hazelnuts to the batter you can deepen the hazelnut flavour and pack in more health benefits

Waffles with raspberries and white chocolate spread

29

Natalie is a freelance writer photographer and pastry chef A graduate of Cordon Bleursquos pastry program she manages her own business too to create custom-made cakes

Using the same waffle recipe from above and switching out the mashed banana and adding frac12 a medium orange ndash juice and zest ndash to the batter you have a delicious orange waffle that will highlight the white chocolate hazelnut spread recipe below

Homemade White Chocolate Hazelnut Spread Makes 1frac12 cups

1frac12 cups (200 g) whole hazelnutsfrac12 cup (70 g) icing sugar2 Tbs (30 mL) canola oil1 tsp (5 mL) vanilla extract1 cup (250g) white chocolate

Follow directions for Homemade Nutella and add the melted white chocolate at the end Pulse to combine

Macerated Raspberries with Orange Serves 6

250 g fresh raspberriesfrac12 medium orange zest and juice1 Tbs icing sugarfrac12 tsp vanilla extract

Add all ingredients into a medium bowl and stir to combine Let sit for about 1 hour

Serve your warm waffles topped with your white chocolate homemade hazelnut spread macerated berries and a dollop of whipped cream or ice cream

Note Homemade Nutella has more texture than store bought and will last around 1 month in the fridge Waffles can be made ahead and frozen Thaw and reheat in the waffle maker or the oven

Banana Fruit compoteMakes enough for 6

3 ripe bananas peeled sliced into rounds2 Tbs (30 g) butter2 Tbs (30 g) brown sugar1frac12 tsp (8 mL) vanilla extract1frac12 tsp (8 mL) bourbon

1 Add butter and sugar to a sauteacute pan over medium heat As they melt stir to combine

2 Add vanilla and bourbon than add sliced bananas and sauteacute until warmed through

Serve your warm waffles topped with your homemade hazelnut spread sauteacuteed bananas and a dollop of whipped cream or ice cream

Homemade Nutella Makes 1frac12 cups

1frac12 cups (200 g) whole hazelnutsfrac34 cup (100g) icing sugar3 Tbs (45 mL) canola oilfrac14 cup (30 g) cocoa powder1 tsp (5 mL) vanilla extract

1 Toast hazelnuts on a baking pan in a preheated 350ordm F oven for 10 - 15 minutes Keep an eye on them to make sure they donrsquot start to burn Remove from oven and let cool to the touch

2 Wrap the nuts in a kitchen towel and rub together to remove the skins This should remove most of the skins

3 Place skinless hazelnuts in a food processor on high Process the nuts until they form a smooth paste and the oils start to separate (about 5 minutes) scraping the bowl often

4 Add the icing sugar cocoa powder vanilla and canola oil to the food processor and process until fully incorporated scraping bowl of processor as needed (about 2 minutes)

Hazelnut Banana WafflesMakes 6

frac12 cup (80 g) all purpose flour1 tsp baking powderfrac12 tsp baking sodaPinch sea salt1 Tbs (15 g) icing sugar1 Tbs (10 g) ground hazelnuts6 grates whole nutmeg1 tsp ground cinnamonfrac12 cup (125 mL) buttermilk1 egg yolk2 Tbs (30 g) butter meltedfrac12 small banana peeled and mashed1 egg white

1 Sift together all dry ingredients (except the ground hazelnuts) in a medium bowl Add the ground hazelnuts and combine

2 Mash the half banana in a small bowl with a fork Add the egg buttermilk and melted butter

3 Whisk the egg white to stiff peaks

4 Whisk the wet ingredients into the dry and fold the egg white into the mixture

5 Follow the directions for your waffle pan to cook waffles for around 5 minutes or until cooked through

Note Remember to bring the waffle pan up to temperature in between each batch of waffles

Hazelnut Banana Waffles with Nutella

30

Citrus Beer Friendsby DAVID NUTTALL

This is when the taste andor aroma of a beer can remind the drinker of anything from an orange drink or lemonade to grapefruit soda There are several ways to achieve this character and these beers are becoming more and more popular every day

Hops provide the bitterness in beer and out of the literally hundreds of varieties a few impart citrus notes into the aroma and flavour Cascade and Citra are examples of two of the most popular hops used in several styles of beer most notably the American IPA or India Pale Ale Cascade hops have been around for over 40 years and it is the single most popular hop used by the American craft brewing industry It provides a floralspicy character often reminiscent of grapefruit

Citrarsquos name leaves no guessing as to its attributes A relative newcomer this cross breed of UK German and US hop varieties has been around for less than a decade but it is already an extremely popular hop for imparting

One of the great things about beer is its diversity It can come in a myriad of colours and also a wide variety of flavours citrus being one of the most distinct

Dave Nuttall has been in the liquor and event business forever He is a qualified beer judge and ownerpresident of Epicurean Calgary at epicureancalgarycom for ten years

citrus and tropical fruit characteristics to a beer

It has proven very versatile and appears in several beer styles from session ales to IPAs It has also become a favourite hop to use for dry-hopping (adding hops late into the boil) due to the exceptional aromas it produces For even more flavour and aroma craft brewers now commonly enhance these already citrusy IPAs with actual zest peel or juice from citrus fruits to create an IPAFruit Beer hybrid which sells especially well in summer months

Then there is the yeast and many varieties of yeast can produce citrusy esters The unfiltered hefeweizens brewed on both sides of the Atlantic quite often have a lemony flavour Sour beers also showcase the yeast often cultured from Belgian strains

These beers are tart and produce a gamut of flavours many with citrus qualities and some have added fruit - the easiest and most obvious way to create a citrusy beer The Belgians also add different kinds of oranges with spice additions to their wheat ales to create wit beers now emulated all over the world with different citrus (and other) fruits involved in the recipe We also canrsquot forget the radlers which are simply a lager beer mixed with 40-60 fruit juice - often grapefruit or lemonade

Whether itrsquos added fruit the yeast the hops or a combination of all of them citrusy beers are commonplace now Thanks to new hops like Citra and the increasing popularity of wits and sours we can expect this trend to continue

Here are a few local beers with hints of citrus All are also available on tap

Beer comes in a myriad of colours and flavours citrus being one of the

most distinct

Ribstone Creek Great White CombineThis tiny Edgerton Alberta brewery has been knocking it out of the park lately Named after the ubiquitous Alberta summer hailstorm the use of Belgian yeast sweet orange peel and coriander give this beer an orange flavour in the beginning When the four different hop additions kick in it changes more to a sweet lemony flavour This White IPA has a very tropical feel that makes you forget it was made in northern Alberta CSPC +774162 $16 6-pack cans

Wild Rose Cowbell Sour ales are the new Belle of the Ball at craft breweries Often using imported Belgian yeast strains they are tart tangy and wellhellip sour Calgaryrsquos Wild Rose has taken this flavour profile and added kaffir lime leaves This makes the beer more like a refreshing limeade and is less bitter than many of its other sour counterparts CSPC +778093 $17 6-pack bottles

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CUL15

Citradelic Single Hop IPA Big Rock BreweryWith breweries in two (soon to be three) provinces Big Rock now has multiple locations to develop new beers This is the first one from their Vancouver brewery and is full of lemongrapefruit flavours and tropical aromas This beer showcases the Citra hop fooling one to think that citrus has been added when itrsquos all thanks to the hop CSPC +778593 $15 6-pack bottles

Alley Kat Main SqueezeWhat started out as a summer seasonal has now become a mainstay of this Edmonton brewery A North American style wheat ale with a 50 wheat and 50 barley mix it has added grapefruit juice but tastes more along the lines of pink grapefruit rather than its more bitter cousin CSPC +733630 $17 6-pack bottles

32

story by RENEE KOHLMAN

Cheesecake is one of those classic desserts that almost everyone loves unless of course you have a dairy allergy then yoursquoll stay far far away from it While it may seem too complicated to make at home I assure you that itrsquos not

Spice it up cheesecake

Sure there are a few steps involved but the key thing to remember is to have your eggs and cream cheese at room temperature For the best crack-free cheesecake itrsquos best to bake it in a water bath It yields a light creamy texture and is well worth the effort Cheesecake always tastes better the next day so bake it the day before you want to serve it Now that wersquove got the basics down itrsquos time to have a little fun with the crust filling and toppings

The Base

The classic graham cracker crust is fine but every now and again itrsquos great to switch things up Try

ndash Grinding up ginger cookies They work especially well for a pumpkin cheesecake

ndash Chocolate cookie crumbs are fantastic for caramel peanut butter and raspberry cheesecakes

ndash Add finely chopped nuts oats or seeds to the cookie crumbs for added texture and taste

The Middle

Therersquos something to be said for a straight up vanilla or chocolate cheesecake but with some fun add-ins they could take your cheesecake to the next level of deliciousness Try

ndash Swirling tahini dulce de leche salted caramel or chocolate fudge sauce into a creamy vanilla filling

ndash Mix in chopped chocolate peanut butter cups to a chocolate filling

ndash Drop fresh berries (raspberries blueberries blackberries) on top of a vanilla filling

ndash Stir in chopped candied ginger dried cherries or cranberries chopped toasted nuts to the filling

ndash Swap some of the cream cheese with ricotta mascarpone cheese or even strained cottage cheese

ndash You can never go wrong with lemon zest in a vanilla cheesecake

Have a little fun with the crust filling

and toppings

33

Apple Crumble CheesecakeMakes about 12-14 servings Total cook and prep time 3 hours (plus overnight chilling)

I love apple crisp and I love cheesecake This recipe is a fine marriage of both and makes a more than acceptable breakfast The base is a crumble of oats and flour the middle is classic cheesecake and itrsquos topped with cinnamon apples and a buttery oat streusel

Crust 2 cups large flake oats1 cup all purpose flour cup packed brown sugarfrac34 cup butter meltedfrac12 tsp salt

Cheesecake Layer3 - 225 g packages cream cheese at room temperature cup granulated sugar1 tsp (5 mL) vanilla3 large eggs at room temperature cup (80 mL) whipping cream

Apple Layer2 apples peeled cored and sliced about 3-4 mm thick1 tsp ground cinnamonfrac12 tsp salt

Streusel Layer1 cup large flake oatsfrac12 cup all-purpose flourfrac12 cup brown sugarfrac12 cup butter softened1 tsp ground cinnamon

Preheat the oven to 375ordm F

1 Butter the bottom and sides of a 9-inch springform pan with sides that are at least 7 cm high Wrap the bottom of the pan in aluminum foil so it comes at least halfway up the sides

2 Combine the crust ingredients in a large bowl Press the crust evenly into the pan and place on a baking sheet Bake for 10 minutes Remove from oven and let it cool on a wire rack

3 Reduce heat to 325ordm F Put a kettle of water on to boil Have a large roasting pan close by

4 Using a stand mixer with a paddle attachment beat the cream cheese at medium speed for 4 minutes scraping down the sides once or twice until it is soft and creamy With the mixer still running add the sugar and beat for another 4 minutes scraping down the sides of the bowl at least twice Beat in the vanilla Add the eggs one at a time beating for 1 minute after each addition and scraping the bowl Reduce speed to low and add the whipping cream

5 Toss the sliced apples with the cinnamon and salt in a small bowl Combine all of the streusel ingredients in a medium bowl and mix well

6 Place the springform pan in the roasting pan Give the cheesecake batter a good stir and pour it on top of the crust Arrange the apples on top and sprinkle the streusel on top of the apples

7 Place in the oven on the middle rack and pour the hot water into the roasting pan so it comes halfway up the sides of the springform pan

8 Bake the cheesecake for 1frac12 hours Turn off the heat prop open the oven door and let the cheesecake hang inside for another hour

9 Carefully remove from the oven and take out the cheesecake from the hot water bath Remove the foil and let the cheesecake come to room temperature on a wire rack Cover the top lightly and refrigerate for at least 4 hours but overnight is best The next day remove the sides of the pan and serve the cake

Renee is a food writer and pastry chef living in beautiful Saskatoon Saskatchewan Her columns appear in The Saskatoon StarPhoenix and her desserts can be enjoyed at Riverside Country Club Also check out her blog wwwsweetsugarbeancom

The Toppings

Cheesecake with no fun toppings is like a salad with no dressing it just doesnrsquot reach its full flavour potential Try

ndash Salted caramel roasted strawberry sauce or warm chocolate sauce

ndash A rhubarbcardamom compote is divine on top of vanilla cheesecake kissed with a bit of lemon zest Cherry compote is divine with chocolate cheesecake

ndash Have a favourite jam Melt it down with a tiny bit of water and drizzle it on top of your favourite cheesecake

ndash Candied nuts and citrus rind chocolate shavings even crumbled cookies are a fun way to add texture to the cheesecake

ndash Never underestimate the power of fresh seasonal berries and a well-made cheesecakeMacerate them in a little sugar and minced mint or basil and they make a lovely topping Donrsquot forget the whipped cream

34

Think about that for a moment and let that sink in like a cherry in your drink

So how old is ice in bars Well thatrsquos a whole story on its own however the Old Fashioned has been talked about in one form or another since the beginning of the 19th Century The first appearance of this classic cocktail was in the Balance and Columbian Repository newspaper in 1806 as such ldquoA stimulating liquor composed of spirits of any kind sugar water and bittersrdquo

The Old FashionedAn Iconic Drink That Has Stood The Test Of Time

by BRICE PERESSINI

Sohelliphow old is the Old Fashioned The Old Fashioned is as old as ice in bars

When you follow these instructions and put this finely-crafted cocktail into your hand swirl around the ice gaze through the caramel-coloured liquid in the glass and contemplate all that has gone into it you can rest assured you are holding a drink that has delighted taste buds for generations The Old Fashioned however has not always been held in high regard There was a time not too long ago where this fine concoction was an unbalanced fruity watered-down pale imitation of itself More recently

there has been a renaissance involved with this invigorating intoxicant and you can and should expect a proper cocktail when it is ordered at a fine establishment

When this drink is properly prepared it should be in perfect balance (as any proper drink should be) The sweetness of the sugar should not cover the flavour of the bourbon and the bitters should add to not overpower the flavour of the whiskey When the Old Fashioned is well made it is as close to cocktail perfection as a sophisticated patron could expect

Befriend a bespoke barkeep at an upstanding establishment and you will be in trusted hands If you find yourself at home and wanting for a nightcap look no further than the Old Fashioned

Enjoy friends

Old Fashioned Recipe

2 oz Buffalo Trace Bourbon (or your personal favourite)4 dashes Angostura Aromatic Bitters1 raw sugar cube

Muddle the sugar and bitters together with a touch of warm water in a rocks glass Add the bourbon then add ice Stir and garnish with an orange peel and cherry (optional)

Brice is a competition cocktail bartender who plies his trade behind the wood at Chefbar Whisk(e)y is his poison Neat

35

Shoulder Season Wines

by JACLYN ADOMEIT

Wines For Cool Weather

Refreshing white wines match with sunny patios and hot days while bold tannic red wines earn their keep by a fireplace on a winter night Common sense But what about the shoulder season What if yoursquore eating sea bass on a rainy spring day Or sipping wine on a patio during an uncommonly warm April afternoon

Photograph courtesy Tom Firth

36

Wine not only pairs with food but with temperatures and seasons A bright sauvignon blanc can taste flat and acidic on a cold night at no fault of the wine or the drinker Some white wines are other-worldly at the vineyard tasting room in the summer but fall flat when you pull them out for dinner guests in the winter

The change in taste is likely due to a number of factors Anatomically it is your sinus cavities creating the change Higher atmospheric pressures allow your nose to pick out subtle aromas while lower pressures bring out a winersquos acidity and harsh tannins CO2 degasses from liquid at low pressure leaving wines dull and flat too

Serving temperature can greatly affect a winersquos aromatics white wines chilled to near-freezing have dull aromas (Tip allow the bottle a half hour on the counter before popping the cork This will allow the aromatics to warm up enhancing the flavour)

Lastly your own palate will be partial to different flavours depending on sun snow wind and sleet but as a rule of thumb higher alcohol white wines (approximately 13 percent or more) will warm the soul and pair best with cooler weather

Here are some wine selections to go for when it is not too hot and not too cold so you can choose a pairing thatrsquos just right

Fiano

Yoursquoll notice that many of the best white wines for cold weather are grown in hot places Hot climates mean a longer growing season more sugar which leads to higher alcohol and often more robust and tropical flavours All of this is true for fiano - seldom grown outside of Campania in southern Italy Fiano produces age-worthy wines which are rich nutty and delicious

Feudi Di San Gregorio 2014 Campania Fiano di Avellino Italy A beautiful floral bouquet with candied lemon followed by honey-coated hazelnuts on the palate Worth cellaring for a few seasons The perfect dance partner for poultry CSPC +708589 $33

Viognier

Viognier is a white varietal that is best consumed at slightly higher temperatures A chilly glass of viognier will leave you with acid maybe oak and not much else Allow it to warm and you may experience peach pear and toasted almond

Traditionally grown in the warm south of France viognier is often a higher alcohol white wine with rich tropical flavours The heat of the alcohol with tropical flavours and lower acid makes viognier the perfect wine to sip while watching a late spring snowfall

Paul Mas 2014 Languedoc-Roussillon Viognier France Brimming with apricot almond lemon and ripe peach Contains hints of warming oak Pair with something savoury baked brie or spinach-filled puff pastry CSPC + 740978 $17

Dry Roseacute

There is so much more to be had from roseacute than white zinfandel And no itrsquos not just a mix of red and white wine The best roseacute is made from red skinned grapes that only sit on their skins for up to a day and a half to borrow colour and flavour then are fermented and processed

Refined examples of roseacute wines are often dry and have deep aromas of red fruits mild tannins and are savoury instead of sweet The French and Spanish craft great examples of dry roseacutes that are either a single varietal or a blend of grapes such as mourvegravedre grenache syrah or tempranillo

Muga Roseacute 2014 Rioja Grenache Viura and Tempranillo Spain A tamed Rioja Orange blossom woven together with strawberry and a palate of cherry and savoury soft cheese Ideal for charcuterie CSPC + 710261 $16

Orange Wine

Never heard of orange wine A commercial demand for natural wines has fostered a resurgence in ancient wine making practices While roseacute wines are reds that have been produced using white wine making practices orange wines are created from white grapes submitted to maceration and allowed to sit on the skins before fermentation the same practice employed in red winemaking

Unlike any white you have tasted orange wines are full-bodied have mild tannins and deep flavours - the characteristics that allow red wines to bring warmth to cool nights A must try for any wine buff

Allow the bottle a half hour on the counter

before popping the cork

The Bicicleta wines are characterized by their fruity expression and for offering more than

the traditional strains a clear example of this range`s innovation style and creativity

Cono Sur Vineyards amp Winery ConoSurVineyards ConoSurWinesconosurcom

The brewhouse at Wild Rose

Jaclynrsquos first passion was winemaking Shersquos worked in vineyards cellars and restaurants Currently she is a writer who daylights as an environmental engineer She believes that a good life like a good wine is not complete without balance

Nichol 2013 Naramata Pinot Gris Canada A Canadian example of orange wine with backbone Flavours of caramel apple roast nuts orange rind and peach CSPC +504159 $31

Oaked chardonnay

In and out with popular palates oak and chardonnay have been partners for a long time Oak paired with chardonnay can bring out butter richness toasted vanilla tree fruit and in the best examples shimmering minerality That is because oak aging is often accompanied by a malolactic fermentation process that smooths out rigid acids into lactic acid - the acid found in milk

Chardonnay is a grape of many talents and encounters a great diversity of production styles It is oaked examples that pair best with pensive rainy days They are full-bodied warming and complex

Wente Morning Fog 2014 Livermore Valley (California) Chardonnay USA Half oak-aged and malolactic-fermented half crisp and fresh this chardonnay brings together green apple vanilla and toasted oak A friend to cream sauce and roast chicken CSPC +175430 $18

In a province of mutable weather let your wine choices be as varied as the ever changing winds Cheers and herersquos to refined full-bodied cool-weather wines

38

Once yoursquore done with your magazine cover shoot like we did this month or prepping for dinner and have all of those odds and ends just sitting on the cutting board - you know carrot ends onion skins tips of celery stalks you get the point - donrsquot toss lsquoem

Instead place them into a large ziploc bag and straight into the freezer After a couple of weeks yoursquoll likely have four full freezer bags of vegetable bits ready to be turned into broth and herersquos how you do it

Making a big batch of vegetable broth doesnrsquot always mean a trip to the grocery store All you need to do is save those scraps This is a handy trick I learned years ago courtesy of Bon Appetit

No-Waste Vegetable Broth

by DAN CLAPSON

Odds And Ends BrothYields 8 cups (2 L)

12 cups (3 L) water4 full ziploc bags of vegetable trimmings1 yellow onion quartered4 cloves garlicAromatics of choice (I usually toss a couple of rosemary and thyme sprigs in there)To taste Salt and pepper

1 Place all ingredients in a large pot and bring to a boil on medium-high heat

2 Reduce to medium heat and let simmer uncovered for 1frac12 hours

3 Strain season to taste with salt and pepper and use as desired

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40

Salentein 2012 Reserve Chardonnay Uco Valley Argentina

Very very enjoyable chardonnay blowing me away with complexity varietal character and fine balance between oak lees and fruit Toffee baked apple tangerine and a little almond on the nose lead into silkily textured wine in the mouth Top shelf chardonnay that might be great with lobster tails mussels or poultry Around $20 CSPC +779479

Rutini 2013 Cabernet Malbec Mendoza Argentina

An exceptionally well put together blend - if you want rich berry fruits lots of body but maybe not tons of varietal characters from the individual components Lifted and bright fruits make for a very enjoyable glass Simply perfect for your next barbecue a roast or just chilling out with friends and family $26-30 CSPC +776822

Vinecol 2014 Organic Malbec Mendoza Argentina Fair Trade organic and vegan along with a good price is it still good Piles of fresh fruits (think smashed raspberries) with plenty of spice and soft herb-leaf aromas There are plenty of malbec flavours on the palate too Good for any day of the week with just a little tension between fruit tannin and acid it might be best with pub style burgers pulled pork or sausages About $16 CSPC +755296

Argentina is so much more than malbec While such a noble grape has found its best home in the high altitude vineyards of Argentina there is a lot going on with other grapes as well

Making The Case For Argentina

by TOM FIRTH

This massive country nestled up against the Andes mountains has a range of growing conditions suited to a number of grapes From Salta in the north to Patagonia in the south plenty of interesting wines are available here - many reasonably priced and of excellent quality So yes there are some

malbecs on these pages but please do try some of the other grapes and blends coming from Argentina too

Be sure to crack open a bottle of malbec on ldquoWorld Malbec Dayrdquo April 17 - who knows it might be nice enough to barbecue too

Photograph courtesy Tom Firth

41

Manos Negras 2011 Stone Soil Select Mendoza Argentina Quite new to the market this is a pretty enjoyable version of Argentinarsquos flagship grape Loads of blue fruit and raspberries with spices galore and a little compost Rich flavours lead to a lengthy spicy finish Yes please Bring to a barbecue if you can $21 CSPC +630541

Zuccardi 2012 Zeta Mendoza Argentina

A malbec-cabernet sauvignon blend that is also a blend of two different Mendoza appellations La Consulta and Gualtallary Deep and abundant fruit aromas with liquorice root and a touch of blueberry preserves Excellent balance of flavours on the palate too with the right structure and tannin for aging if desired Enjoy with a prime rib or even meaty pasta dishes or game $50-52 CSPC +740270

Zuccardi 2012 ldquoEmmardquo Bonarda Mendoza Argentina

In my humble opinion one of the finest bonardas coming out of Argentina Notes of coffee bean and espresso complement cherry and blackberry fruits with healthy balanced tannins to stand up to the tart fruits Delicious for sure enjoy at your next barbecue $40 CSPC +758407

Luigi Bosca 2011 Cabernet-Malbec Mendoza Argentina

A wonderfully earthy and savoury blend with plenty of tobacco spice leather and yes lots of fruit too The earthy flavours work well with the big dark chocolate flavours and weighty tannins Drink now or through 2020 or so - with a steak naturally $22-24 CSPC +766010

Trivento 2013 Golden Reserve Malbec Lujan de Cuyo Argentina While there is a trend to see a lot of premium malbecs move away from oak presence this one is a bold smooth and delicious example that is seeing about a year of oak All those berry fruits plums and herb notes malbec is known for along with the smoothness that only oak brings Kick back relax maybe cook up some steaks - enjoy About $24 CSPC +711402

Trivento 2014 Malbec Reserve Mendoza Argentina Nearly unbeatable for good malbec at a great price itrsquos rich and chocolatey on the nose with big fruits and oak tones too Mild garrigue notes or dried herb flavours with plenty of fruit and tannins - still showing a fine sense of balance Enjoy with beef $14 CSPC +730714

Luigi Bosca 2011 De Sangre Mendoza Argentina A blend of cabernet sauvignon merlot and syrah that manages to pull out the best of each varietal Earthy and slightly smoky with good fruits and plenty of versatility Tannins are well-placed against the fruits with a long smooth finish Irsquove been a fan of this wine year after year Good to keep a couple on hand in the cellar About $29 CSPC +745106

Salentein 2012 Numina Gran Corte Uco Valley Argentina A malbec-dominated Bordeaux blend this stunner is all about ripe fruits cedar pepper cherries and plum with a little tealeaf and the right amount of tannins Very very well balanced and like any great wine think about some food to go with it Beef tenderloin slow cooked meats or maybe at your next asadohellip About $40 CSPC +764706

Colonia Las Liebres 2013 Bonarda Mendoza Argentina Bear with me here - a fine bonarda with plenty of earthy smoky aromas leading to rubber charred cherries and cocoa Some pretty prominent tannins to be found as well but wow does it all come together A wine that just begs for duck with cranberries or maybe some kebabshellip$20 CSPC +773381

42

Open That Bottleby LINDA GARSON photography by INGRID KUENZEL

ldquoIf you work in a place and yoursquore miserable I donrsquot know if there is a dollar amount that can be attached to that The work that yoursquore doing has to be rewarding and challengingrdquo says Karen KhoGrowing up in Niagara Falls in a Philippino SpanishChinese family Kho was surrounded by food and drinks with an open door policy that has had a huge influence on the person she is today - an

entertainer who likes to make people feel welcome ldquoMy parents wanted me to be a lawyer there was definitely an encouragement to use my voice for goodrdquo she explains ldquoAnd I still think I help people but in a different way a very social wayrdquo

Graduating Western University with a political science degree in 2000 Kho spent a year travelling and living in Australia before taking a leap of faith and moving to Calgary Here she studied wine with the International Sommeliers Guild and WSET but says her real education was a job she adored working in the wine trade at BIN 905 in tandem with running wine programs for CRMR restaurants It was only when the opportunity came to create the wine program at Vin Room six years later that Kho leapt at the challenge of a new idea for the city and spent four happy years there

Eventually she and her partner decided to stretch their wings and went to Vancouver where Kho embarked on a six-month culinary course at the Pacific Institute of Culinary Arts ticking off another box on her bucket list ldquoI wanted a greater understanding of technique in the kitchen and I wanted an understanding of what service on a very basic level would look like if I ever owned my own place and ever had to be the person who filled inrdquo she says ldquoI feel if I was ever in a place that needed someone to chop onions Irsquom your womanrdquo she laughs

A year later the pair came back with the idea of eventually opening their own business in Calgary ldquoThe support we get from this community is heartfelt and this is a city of opportunity People with the right concept are seeing a lot of great success itrsquos still our game planrdquo she says Meanwhile Kho applied only to Teatro where she is now Group Service Director

ldquoI wanted to work at a place that had a challenging wine program and had a level of service with high expectations and where professional service teams

applyrdquo she says ldquoItrsquos pretty romantic to work for a company that has been built on a foundation of service Successful businesses in the restaurant industry get the grand picture which is the moments that yoursquore creating for people and I like to be a part of thatrdquo she adds

So what bottle is Kho saving for a special occasion

Paying homage to her time at BIN 905 Kho explains ldquoI have a bottle of 1996 Chateau Mouton Rothschild which was given to me with some very kind words on my last day at BIN Irsquove always just appreciated my time there it was where I learned the vernacular of wine and itrsquos my first job where I really saw the benefits of serving people with intentionrdquo She continues ldquoI always see it thankfully as the stepping-stone to a broader wine profession and eventually to the position that I have now It was given to me by very close friends that Irsquom still friends with to this dayrdquo

And when is she planning to open the wine

ldquoWhen (partner) Dave and I open our own restaurantrdquo Kho says This isnrsquot something that something that will happen tomorrow but fortunately the wine will last until theyrsquore ready

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Registration Deadline July 1 | Judging Takes Place July 18-19-20

12

Tricks Chefs Tipsstory by ROBYN MACLEAN photography by INGRID KUENZEL Knives

The most important tool in any kitchen without a doubt is a good knife As Iron Chef Masahari Morimoto would say ldquoa kitchen without a knife is not a kitchenrdquo

I couldnrsquot agree more

For professional cooks knives are practically an extension of their hands and probably better cared for But a quality knife is just as essential for home cooks If yoursquore even slightly inclined to cook at home at the very least you should own a classic 20 cm chefrsquos knife ndash the go-to knife for the brunt of daily kitchen tasks

But itrsquos certainly not the only knife you should have in your arsenal Slicing dicing filleting butchering and julienning become a whole lot easier when you use the right knife for the job and these three Calgary chefs share their favourite model and a recipe to help point you in the right direction

䈀甀礀 琀栀攀 琀漀瀀 栀愀氀昀 漀昀 愀渀礀 戀漀琀琀氀攀 漀昀 眀椀渀攀 戀攀琀眀攀攀渀 瀀洀ⴀ㘀瀀洀 愀渀搀 最攀琀 琀栀攀 戀漀琀琀漀洀 琀栀攀 昀甀渀 栀愀氀昀⤀ 昀漀爀 䘀刀䔀䔀

䘀刀

䔀䔀

䴀伀一䐀䄀夀 ⴀ 䘀刀䤀䐀䄀夀 瀀洀 ⴀ㘀瀀洀

瀀爀椀挀攀 戀漀琀琀氀攀猀 漀昀 眀椀渀攀㔀 戀漀琀琀氀攀猀 漀昀 戀攀攀爀㔀 栀椀最栀戀愀氀氀猀

䠀䄀䰀䘀 䘀刀䔀䔀 圀䤀一䔀

㔀 㔀 Ⰰ 㠀 䄀 瘀 攀 匀 圀 Ⰰ 䌀 愀 氀 最 愀 爀 礀 Ⰰ 䄀 䈀 吀 倀 䜀

Pacific Albacore Tuna CrudoServes 4

335 g Pacific albacore tuna 1 honey crisp or granny smith apple 4 cloves of garlic thinly sliced frac12 tsp ground espelette chili frac14 cup (60 mL) sunflower oil frac14 cup (60 mL) flax oil 1 Tbs lightly toasted flax seed 8 pickled string beans (keep some pickling liquid)4 slices of prosciutto 1 Tbs (1 mL) rice vinegar Pea shoots Good quality finishing salt like fleur de sel

1 Slice garlic as thinly as possible and combine with sunflower oil in a small saucepan Heat slowly and allow the garlic to fry until golden brown Remove from heat and add the ground espelette chili

2 Allow the oil to steep for 15-20 minutes at room temperature Once cool add flax oil

Chef Matthias Fong

3 Slice 8 pickled string beans thinly into rounds

4 Dice the apple into 1 cm cubes and add a splash of the pickled string bean liquid as well as rice vinegar add to the sliced string beans

5 Set up 4 plates Slice the tuna into frac34 cm thick slices and lay out 85 g per plate Using the finishing salt season the tuna to taste

6 Pull the prosciutto slices apart into bite-sized pieces and scatter them with the tuna slices

7 Drizzle 1 Tbs (15 mL) flax oil over each plate with a few slices of the fried garlic from the oil on each plate

8 Scatter the apple and string bean mixture over the slices of tuna being sure to spoon some of the pickling liquid from the bowl over the tuna slices Finish with pea shoot tips and toasted flax seed

Chef Matthias FongRiver Cafeacute

A good quality knife is made from high quality steel usually German or Japanese which will stay sharp for a long period of time and has the potential to last a lifetime

Owning a stainless steel knife versus one made from high carbon steel is also extremely beneficial in any kitchen Itrsquos easy for a knife to end up in the sink which can leave non-stainless varieties rusted and ruined

ldquoRegardless of style or brand itrsquos never safe to let knives go dull Dull knives lead to excessive force and can easily slip off the product yoursquore cuttingrdquo cautions Fong

ldquoTo properly care for a knife I recommend investing in some sharpening stone andor a ceramic honing rod which prolongs the life of your knife and requires less sharpening I also suggest signing up for a class to learn the art of sharpening or just take your knives directly to the folks at Knifewear and theyrsquoll gladly maintain for yourdquo

ldquoMy go-to knife is the Tojiro Flash 825-inch slicer Itrsquos short in length making it versatile for a variety of uses I use it for the majority of my prep work but itrsquos ideal for slicing and carving The narrow blade allows for paper thin slicing on delicate fish like tunardquo says Fong

ldquoI favour the Tojiro line of knives because they offer stainless Japanese steel thatrsquos easy to sharpen and repairrdquo

14

Chef Kai SalimaumlkiThe Block

Chef Salimaumlki is all about a great multipurpose knife ldquoI love the Masakage Kumo Petty 150 mm knife Itrsquos ideal for numerous tasks in the kitchen but I especially love it for chopping fine herbs Itrsquos lightweight and has a remarkably sharp edge that has chives bouncing from under it in perfect uniform circlesrdquo he explains

The Petty knife is ideal for smaller jobs such as slicing shallots cutting herbs and boning smaller proteins And because of its size itrsquos also a great alternative for those who feel uncomfortable wielding a larger heavier chefrsquos knife

ldquoI would recommend this knife for the home cook as it can replace many utility knives people seem to collect in drawers And of course most importantly I recommend proper love attention and care to ensure you keep this tool functioning for a very long timerdquo

You simply canrsquot do your best without your equipment at its best

Chef Jorel ZielkeBrasserie Kensington and Winebar

ldquoIrsquom a huge fan of my 10frac34-inch MAC chefrsquos knife This multipurpose knife is modeled after the standard French chefrsquos kniferdquo says Zielke

Sirloin Beef TartareServes 2

335 g AAA beef sirloin2 Tbs (30 mL) grainy mustard cup minced shallots Tbs minced gherkins2 Tbs cup finely chopped parsley Worcestershire sauce to tasteHot sauce to tasteCold pressed canola oil to taste 1 egg yolk in tact with all whites removedPinch of fresh grated horseradishSalt and pepper

1 Finely dice the sirloin removing any connective tissue or silver-skin Do not trim off the fat Pass over the meat several times with your knife

2 Mix in mustard shallots gherkins parsley Worcestershire hot sauce oil and salt and pepper

3 Note All garnish measurements are suggestions as tartares vary to personal taste Add enough oil to moisten dish but be careful not to oversaturate

4 Top tartare with raw egg yolk and freshly grated horseradish

5 Serve with anything you can pick it up with such as crostini crackers fresh bread fresh heirloom tomato or crisp lettuce

ldquoI canrsquot emphasize enough the importance of respecting your tools by keeping them clean and properly functioning to avoid safety issues You simply canrsquot do your best without your equipment at its bestrdquo

ldquoA sharp knife is key when dicing raw meat like in my recipe belowrdquo he continues ldquoKeep in mind that itrsquos not firm like an onion or a stick of celery Meat shifts and moves as you prepare it so itrsquos important to slow down and take your time when preparing a dish like tartarerdquo

Chef Jorel Zielke

Chef Kai Salimaumlki

15

Robyn is a public relations professional and occasional writer with a passion for food and beverages Despite city hopping from her home in Calgary to Anchorage AK you can still find her on Twitter robynalana

Braised Brisket with Carrot Puree and Napa Cabbage Serves 4

900 ndash 1125 g brisket5 carrots peeled and sliced 12-16 baby potatoes 1 head of Napa cabbage julienned5 parsnips peeled and sliced 2 tomatoes quartered2 yellow onions quartered1 yellow onion thinly sliced6 sprigs of thyme4 sprigs of rosemary 6 whole cloves of garlic3-4 Tbs butter1 Tbs black peppercornsCanola oil4 cups (1 L) beef stock or water1 cup (240 mL) of milkHoney to tasteSalt and pepper 1 Season brisket liberally with salt and pepper (you can braise whole or cut it into smaller chunks)

2 In a large sauteacute pan heat canola oil until it has reached its smoking point Sear the meat on all sides until golden brown and caramelized

3 Remove from pan and place in a large ovenproof baking dish covering with beef stock (or water) Add peppercorns two sprigs of rosemary 4 sprigs of thyme whole garlic tomatoes and the quartered onions

4 Cover with tin foil and braise for approximately for 3-3frac12 hours at 325ordm F or until fork tender

5 Remove from the braising juices spoon off any excess fat and strain juices into a saucepot reduce on a medium heat until a nice thick sauce has formed

6 For carrot puree add two tablespoons of butter in a heavy bottomed saucepan and sauteacute sliced onion and diced carrots together over medium heat Yoursquore not looking to brown the vegetables but rather simmer in the butter

7 After 10 minutes cover the mixture with milk add 2 sprigs of thyme and season with salt Simmer until soft and tender

8 Strain the carrots and reserve the milk throw out the thyme sprigs Place the carrots and onions in a blender and slowly add the milk until a nice puree is achieved check seasoning and thickness and adjust if necessary Set aside 9 Sauteacute julienned cabbage in a tablespoon of butter season with salt and add 2 tablespoons of water Reduce heat and cook for 5 minutes stirring frequently

ldquoI recommend proper love attention and care to ensure you keep this tool functioning for a

very long timerdquo

10 Toss sliced carrots and parsnips with honey chopped rosemary and thyme season with salt and pepper and roast in the oven for an hour at 325ordm F or until tender 11 Boil the baby potatoes in heavily salted water until fork tender

12 To serve set up 4 plates and spoon carrot puree on the bottom of the plate in a circle Arrange potatoes carrots and parsnips around the plate place Napa cabbage in the middle and place brisket on top Spoon the reduced braising liquid over the meat

16

As Nemeth chats with customers other vendors and friends who stop by her enthusiastic greetings and joyous laughter are hard to ignore mdash this is a woman who clearly likes people In fact she loves them Warm hearty and full of surprises the words used to describe Nemethrsquos personality can just as easily be used to describe her soup

The Primal Soup Co is a fairly new entity mdash the frozen containers of soup with flavours like Mango Butternut Squash Spinach Artichoke and Feta and Thai Coconut Chicken first showed up at the Market on MacLeod (then the

Going To MarketPrimal Soup Company Finds Its Homeby ELIZABETH CHORNEY-BOOTH photography by INGRID KUENZEL

If you happen to spy Margaret Nemeth at one of her Primal Soup Company booths at the Crossroads Market or the Market on MacLeod yoursquoll immediately see that the energetic atmosphere of a Farmersrsquo Market suits her

Kingsland Farmersrsquo Market) in 2011 mdash but Nemeth is not new to the food and beverage game

Long-time Calgarians may recognize the Primal name and the taste of Nemethrsquos homemade soups from the now defunct Primal Grounds Cappuccino Bar and Eatery in Killarney which Nemeth owned and ran from 1996 through to 2010

Nemeth opened that business after a career in oil and gas and the stand-alone cafeacute was a solid success for her Not only did it serve up great coffee Nemeth quickly made a name for herself with her homemade soup creations All homemade and gluten-free (due to Nemethrsquos own dietary restrictions) Primal Grounds was catering to people with gluten intolerances long before it became fashionable

ldquoWe were pioneers and it was so much funrdquo Nemeth says ldquoThere were lots of ups and downs but it was a good liferdquo

ldquoWhen yoursquore in a market you have to give people reasons to stoprdquo

Margaret Nemeth

17

Nemeth sold the cafeacute when a real estate developer made her an offer she couldnrsquot refuse but she still felt the urge to be around people and feed them So she set up shop in the markets - first the Market on MacLeod and then in January of 2015 she opened a stall in the rebranded Crossroads Market

Elizabeth Chorney-Booth is a Calgary-based writer and co-founderco-editor of RollingSpooncom and Wapawekkacom She enjoys exploring the connection between music and food through interviews with musicians and chefs

Primal Soup also sells lunch items like gourmet macaroni and cheese sandwiches and homemade pies and pastries so that market wanderers can stop by the stall and grab a full lunch while perusing the soup cooler for something to take home for a future meal

ldquoWhen yoursquore in a market you have to give people reasons to stoprdquo Nemeth says ldquoSo we offer things to go with the soup which also gives them ideas for what they can do at home Or sometimes theyrsquoll come for a sandwich and then theyrsquoll look at the soups You have to give people reasons to be in this spacerdquo

ldquoWe were pioneers and it was so much funrdquo

Whatever Nemeth is doing it seems to be working Between the two farmersrsquo markets and specialty retailers like the Market on 17th Sunnyside Market and SPUD delivery boxes Primal Soup Co sells over 1000 containers of soup every week Nemeth develops the recipes herself but has hired a full-time chef to keep up with the demand Personality and strategic stall locations in busy farmersrsquo markets alone isnrsquot enough to move that kind of volume of soup mdash while Nemeth has made smart business decisions over the course of Primalrsquos various incarnations the key to her success really lies in the product itself Everything is made from scratch without the aid of pre-bought soup bases and Nemeth uses seasonal ingredients (only 20 to 30 of her 50 soup varieties are ever available at any given time) supporting her neighbours at the markets when possible Her meat stocks are built from organic chicken bones Wintersrsquo turkey carcasses and duck bones from fellow market vendor Green Eggs and Ham to build a rich and delicious broth ldquoI layer my soupsrdquo Nemeth says ldquoI donrsquot just throw everything in the pot together And there has to be a twist in every one There has to be something

that you donrsquot expect mdash a surprise in every boxrdquo

To bring things full circle Nemeth has a new venture that just opened kitty corner to her Primal Soup stall in the Crossroads Market a beautiful and shiny new Primal Grounds coffee location With a long counter for people to sit at for as long as they like (Nemeth jokes that itrsquos the perfect place for bored spouses to sit while their partners shop the market) itrsquos an updated nod to what got Primal Soup started in the first place

And itrsquos also a testament to Nemethrsquos dedication to market life mdash the lack of control she has over her own hours and some other aspects arenrsquot perfect but the busyness the proximity to like-minded vendors and most of all the people she gets to interact with on a constant basis has put Nemeth exactly where she belongs ldquoYoursquore only as strong as the market is collectivelyrdquo she says ldquoItrsquos different than being a restaurant but I have to say itrsquos the funnest thing Irsquove ever donerdquo

ldquoThere has to be something that you donrsquot

expect mdash a surprise in every boxrdquo

18

Soup Kitchenstory and photography by DAN CLAPSON

The fresh hang-up-your-winter-jacket feeling is finally in the air ndash and that my friends is a wonderful thing Gone are the days where wersquove looked forward to spooning into a big bowl of creamy soup or sitting down to some chicken noodle soup to help shake off the winter sniffles These days Irsquom more concerned with light and bright flavours and less calorie-ridden meals

so I wonrsquot look completely undesirable in a swimsuit come June

Here are two great recipes that just happen to be vegan but are bursting with flavour

Serves 5 Total cook time 35 minutes

6 cups (15 L) vegetable broth1 cup (240 mL) white wine1 cup (240 mL) water2 Tbs (30 mL) tomato paste2 cups dry green lentils1 red onion halved and thinly sliced1 small fennel bulb halved and thinly sliced2 tsp (10 mL) maple syrup1 tsp dried oreganofrac12 tsp ground turmericfrac12 tsp chili flakesfrac12 tsp ground cinnamon1 pinch nutmeg2 cups thinly sliced red Swiss chardTo taste salt and pepper

1 Place broth wine water and tomato paste in a large pot and bring to a simmer on medium-high heat Add lentils and cook for 15 minutes

2 Add onion fennel maple syrup and spices and continue to cook for 15 minutes

Spiced Green Lentil and Chard Soup

3 Add Swiss chard and cook until leaves are tender about 2-3 minutes Season to taste with salt and pepper and serve

Dan Clapson is a freelance food writer and columnist in Calgary When hersquos not writing about Canadarsquos amazing culinary scene he is likely listening to 80s rock or 90s boy bands Follow him on twitter dansgoodside

Spinach and Cashew Soup with Poblano and Scallion Salsa

Serves 4 Total cook time 30 minutes not including cashew soak time

Soup1frac12 cups roasted cashews2 cups (500 mL) water4 cups (1 L) vegetable broth4 cups cooked spinach1 Tbs (15 mL) apple cider vinegar1 Tbs (15 mL) maple syrupfrac12 tsp cayenne peppersalt and pepper to tastecashew butter for garnish optional

1 Place cashews and water in a container cover and let sit on counter overnight

2 Combine cashews water and remaining soup ingredients in a blender and pureacutee until very smooth

3 Pour contents of blender through a fine mesh strainer into a medium pot Bring to a simmer on medium-high heat and cook for 15 minutes Season to taste with salt and pepper and keep warm on stove until ready to serve

4 Place a couple of spoonfuls of the salsa into each bowl and ladle soup around it Add a couple of dollops of cashew butter for a little extra richness

Salsa1 large poblano pepper halved and seeds removed1 bunch scallions2 Tbs (30 mL) canola oil2 Tbs fresh mint roughly chopped1 tsp (5 mL) lemon juicefrac12 tsp cane sugarfrac12 tsp chili flakessalt and pepper to taste

1 Preheat oven to 400ordm F

2 Place poblano halves and scallions on a baking sheet drizzle with oil and roast until slightly charred about 15-18 minutes

3 Remove from oven allow to cool slightly then give them a rough chop

4 Add to a bowl with remaining ingredients and toss to combine Season liberally with salt and pepper

20

Photograph courtesy California Wine Institute

Ever since Napa Valley cabernet sauvignons and chardonnays bested their more historic counterparts from Bordeaux and Burgundy in the now-famous Judgment of Paris tasting in 1976 California and its flagship region have carried the torch for the bold dense fruity lushly oaked wines that brought them worldwide fame

Forty years later this sun-drenched style of wines remains both unapologetically enjoyable and wildly popular and Napa is on the bucket list of any devoted wine tourist But as tastes and trends start to evolve away from a focus on power and concentration towards greater elegance and food-friendliness winemakers in California are again taking to the frontier gravitating towards the statersquos physical and climatic extremes to explore new boundaries of flavour and complexity Californiarsquos cooler corners

California Coolby PETER VETSCH

California is a land of frontiers dangling on the edge of the Pacific home of the Gold Rush and epicentre of the New Worldrsquos insurgence onto the global wine scene

are fast becoming its second face in the world of wine

Sonoma County north of San Francisco and just west of Napa is probably Californiarsquos second best-known region almost equally recognized for its cabernets chardonnays and zinfandels The largest subregion in the county taking up almost a third of its total area is the western Sonoma Coast too expansive at 500000 acres to have a distinct identity

However the western border of this appellation a razorrsquos edge straddling the ocean locally known as the ldquotruerdquo Sonoma Coast showcases the regionrsquos true character - extreme viticulture wet cool and always windy at elevations up to 2000 feet balanced on the San Andreas Fault with many vines growing above the fog line and constantly exposed to the throes of the Pacific Pinot noir takes on a unique expression here on low-yielding vines in the cool above the rest of Sonoma offering both remarkable purity of fruit and astonishing acidity and structure

Pinot is also predominant in the relatively new Santa Rita Hills subregion of the Santa Ynez Valley located an hour and a half northwest of Los Angeles and similarly perched right alongside the ocean The maritime influence dominates the microclimate and counteracts the California sun with fog and cool breezes to the point where this coastal spot becomes a near ideal substitute for chilly Burgundy Here the core Burgundian varietals of pinot noir and chardonnay thrive in a particularly striking edgy way

Santa Ynez is the only wine region in the western hemisphere where the arearsquos defining mountain range runs east-west instead of north-south creating a sort of maritime wind tunnel that sucks cold Pacific air eastward This leads to some of the largest diurnal (day to night) temperature shifts in North America and allows inland grapes ripening in the scorching daytime heat to recharge and maintain acidity at night This special geological feature allows a wide range of reds in Santa Ynez to be juicy but still structured bold yet balanced from cabernet and merlot to syrah and grenache

Halfway between the Sonoma Coast to the north and the Santa Rita Hills to the south along yet another coastline

California can comfortably both provide continuity

and defy stereotype

Wine Picks

Peter is a local lawyer by day and wine writer by night maintaining his own wine blog at popandpourca He is always on the lookout for the next way to experience wine and the next good bottle to try

A LITTLE SIBLING RIVALRY NEVER HURT ANYBODY

FOUR SETTINGS ONE PHILOSOPHY crmrcom338 - 17th Avenue SW

c i l a n t ro

747 Lake Bonavista Dr SE113 - 8th Avenue SW 340 - 17th Avenue SW

Sequoia Grove 2012 Cabernet Sauvignon (Napa Valley)Textbook cabernet from Naparsquos heart of Rutherford with deep black fruit mint and cedarhellip and a survivable price tag CSPC +740382 $56

Hartford Court Landrsquos Edge Vineyard Pinot Noir (Sonoma Coast)The ferocity of the Sonoma Coast somehow creates the picture of elegance in this juicy yet delicate pinot CSPC +717210 $60

Domaine de la Cote 2013 Pinot Noir (Sta Rita Hills) Seriously pushes the boundaries picked almost insanely early for low-alcohol herbal pomegranate and rhubarb acidic tension and energy CSPC +761893 $58

Alice May Crosswinds Syrah (Santa Ynez Valley) A syrahviognier Cote Rotie-style co-ferment that matches Cali ripeness with surprising verve and delicacy CSPC +761131 $28

Ridge 2013 Geyserville (Santa Cruz Mountains)This will change your expectations of zinfandel A zin-heavy field blend it combines the best of its mountain altitude and the California sun CSPC +426379 $55

just south of San Jose the wineries of the Santa Cruz Mountains prove again that those seeking to make modern moderate wines in California head both west and up The highest vineyards in Santa Cruz despite being just miles from the ocean are at 2600 feet this significant altitude and the cool Pacific climate results in chiseled wines with controlled ripeness and serious staying power

The region is both expansive and miniscule with only 1500 of its 480000 acres currently planted to grapes and its very-California plantings (cabernet chardonnay pinot noir zinfandel and merlot) all take on an Old World character and rusticity from its rugged terrain and stony mineral-laden soils Despite the challenges associated with growing grapes on a cool rock face Santa Cruz is a state leader in sustainable growing practices

The friendly sunny face of California wine is surely here to stay but Santa Cruz Santa Ynez and the Sonoma Coast are permanent proof that the state is readily capable of more than one expression With its range of climate and terrain California can comfortably both provide continuity and defy stereotype

22

En GardeA Beginnerrsquos Guide To Knives And Their Usesby ANNA BROOKS

Itrsquos difficult to imagine that sharp little number thatrsquos slicing away to the rhythm of your favourite cooking music (or to the beating of child-size fists hungry for dinner) was more often used for combat not chopping carrots

Despite King Louis XIVrsquos decree that the tips of knives be ground down to reduce violence in the mid-1600s kitchen knives still (for quite pointed reasons) make popular murder weapons

But we wonrsquot get into grisly stories of guts and gore here Whether yoursquore a chef extraordinaire or the person whose knife knowledge goes as far as cutting

vegetables with a steak knife there are some things everyone should know about knives

The first major thing we must insist upon is putting down that expensive 14-piece knife set As most knife experts can attest to three main knives can cover almost all the work that a layman cook needs to do in the kitchen

23

Three main knives can cover almost all the work that a layman cook needs

to do in the kitchen

Chefrsquos Knife Your standard knife for mincing and slicing vegetables and meat a chefrsquos knife is typically 20-25 cm long but can range all the way up to 36 cm

Luke Pickett from Knifewear is a sight to see wielding some wickedly sharp

handcrafted Japanese models but despite their carnivorous look Pickett said therersquos really nothing to fear

ldquoThere are a lot of people who are scared of really large knivesrdquo Pickett said ldquoBut having good quality kitchen equipment will make your life easierrdquo

For beginners a standard 20 cm chefrsquos knife (although Pickett said blade length is purely based on personal preference) is best to start with but a Japanese Santoku knife mdash an elegant slightly smaller version of a chefrsquos knife mdash will certainly get the job er meal done

Paring KnifeOn the other side of the knife spectrum is the pocket-sized paring knife (note carrying knives in pockets not recommended)

Regan Johnson assistant manager at The Cookbook Co said besides what the individual using a steak knife to cut everything might think the small intricate work required of a paring knife (such as peeling and trimming) should not be done on a cutting board

ldquoParing is anything you can be doing in the air mdash yoursquore not ever supposed to use a paring knife on a boardrdquo she explained

Johnson added that for someone like herself who does almost as much blade-wielding as a samurai she also recommends a utility knife

which is a hybrid of a chefrsquos knife and a paring knife

ldquoI reach for my utility knife a lotrdquo she said ldquoItrsquos got that shape of a paring knife but is longer Itrsquos just for those things in between that you donrsquot need your giant chefrsquos knife forrdquo

Bread KnifeThe last of the big three is of course a bread knife Have you ever tried to cut a loaf of bread with a straight blade Not so easy (or safe) a task

Itrsquos sometimes difficult to do but no matter the type of knife yoursquore using itrsquos important to try and slice as opposed to chopping or sawing It

is quite tempting (and often seems easier) to saw away at the crispy crust of a floured loaf of sourdough but Knifewearrsquos Pickett said sawing can

be a slippery slope to your bread knifersquos grave

ldquoIf you slice you can use the entire blade and itrsquos a lot sharper along the edgerdquo he explained ldquoItrsquos important to get a good bread knife because you canrsquot sharpen them like you can any other sort of kniferdquo

The Big Three

24

Having good quality kitchen equipment will

make your life easier

Anna Brooks is an award-winning journalist from Calgary Alberta She has worked internationally in Thailand and Africa and has been published in Metro BeatRoute Magazine and the Calgary Journal She also enjoys animal rights fantasy fiction and whiskey sours

Tips and TricksOf course you can adorn your kitchen with the countless others belonging to the knife family mdash cleavers carvers boning knives cheese knives etc mdash but if yoursquore not planning on hacking through solid bone anytime soon you probably donrsquot need to spend $200 on a meat cleaver

But there are some other knife-related implements that are important to have in your kitchen

First off a proper cutting board While plastic cutting boards are versatile and can be chucked in the dishwasher wood is really the best way to go Cutting boards are the quickest way to ruin a knife so steer clear of fancy-looking glass or granite boards mdash they are the antagonists of our story

Itrsquos also not a bad idea to have a knife honer on hand As a reminder (or for

those who had no idea what that random rod in the kitchen was used for) honers are for honing not sharpening

ldquoWith use the metal fibres in a knife edge can get bent to one side or another All yoursquore doing with honing is straightening those fibres back outrdquo Johnson from The Cookbook Co explained ldquoSharpening means yoursquore actually removing material and grinding the metal down to a finer edgerdquo

Johnson added that while you can sharpen at home she always recommends getting your knives sharpened professionally at least once a year depending on how much theyare used

Before you go back to making your lazy-day grilled cheese sandwich or that complex stew yoursquove spent hours on we just want to remind you of whatrsquos called ldquothe pinch griprdquo

Not to sound snobbish but grabbing a knife by the handle and hacking away is poor form Use your thumb and index finger to grasp the blade and then wrap your remaining fingers under the bolster of the knife Shape your other hand into a claw to protect your fingertips from accidentally getting lopped off firmly grasp the object to be cut and slice away

If this knowledge was present in the 17th century perhaps old King Louis XIV would be tipping his crown to more cooks not kitchen knife combatants

25

Times Are A Changing Unexpected Take-Outs

by LINDA GARSON and DIANA NG photography by INGRID KUENZEL

Therersquos no denying that many of our cityrsquos restaurants are feeling the effects of the current economic downturn fewer people working downtown ndash indeed fewer people working altogether and so looking to save money by eating out less means many bricks and mortar restaurants are having to get creative with ways to fully utilise their kitchens and staff

High rents exacerbate the situation so itrsquos time for Calgary restaurateurs to think outside the box and proving to be the innovative entrepreneurs that wersquore known for many are diversifying their offerings to include take-out options both raw and cooked

Catch amp The Oyster Bar launched their ldquoBuy Catchrdquo program where you can pick up fresh Ocean Wise seafood to take home and cook (complete with recipes) along with house-made clam chowder and sauces nearly two years ago There are big savings to be had over dining in with no costs for linen or staff and no expectation to tip

Here are four Calgary eateries also getting clever with take-out

programs that are not widely publicised - and may

open a few eyes

26

Centini Restaurant

Itrsquos not a cookie cutter program but the magic of Centinirsquos take-out is that you can ask the kitchen for ideas of what you should have for dinner People even text the servers for suggestions and to order Loyal customers mostly busy businessmen were asking if they catered but without the staff for such a service Centini started offering to prepare dishes for them to cook themselves

Now you can get your favourite restaurant dishes from rack of lamb with red wine demi-glace AAA Alberta beef tenderloin with Gorgonzola pan sauce and sea bass with ginger cream sauce ready to cook at home ldquoWersquore not going to open a bricks and mortar restaurant down south but our food is going thererdquo says Chevonne Centini Theyrsquore seeing pick-ups such as for people stuck at home with a new baby and even 40 people for a funeral

Boxwood

Itrsquos hard to believe that the quality of food coming from the sister restaurant to River Cafe can be had at home and we are not talking about leftovers When

People take home uncooked homemade pasta with sauce separately and even bread dough and often freeze it to cook later or pick up on a Friday evening so everything is prepared ready for Saturday dinner When buying from a restaurant yoursquore getting top quality perfectly trimmed meat everything is done for you - therersquos no shopping

around and even the parsley is chopped And as everything is custom-made all allergies are catered for too

Centini gets fish delivered once or twice every day and it may come as a surprise but with a chef garde manger that spent 15 years in Japan they have customers coming just to take out sushi

you go home to an empty fridge it feels like the only options you have are fast food or pizza Not so

Boxwoodrsquos fresh and seasonal fare is also available to take home While you wonrsquot

be able to enjoy the quaint atmosphere of the restaurant you can order anything on the menu for take out with its special offering being the whole rotisserie free-range chicken which serves two to four people for $40

Many bricks and mortar restaurants are

having to get creative with ways to fully utilise their

kitchens and staff

You will need to call a few hours ahead (the website states before 200 pm) for enough notice for the chicken but for the rest of the selection like its soups and sandwiches you can simply look up the menu online and call to place an order For a perfect night in may we suggest starting with its bison tartare then moving onto the porchetta and another main before finishing off the meal with a slice of pie

27

Gaucho

For most people the elaborate setup of Brazilian barbecue is one of its biggest attractions You may not know this and while you may not be able to take home the lively decor of Gaucho you can actually take the meal home

The spit packed tightly with freshly roasted meats the sign at the table that signals yoursquore ready for more and the roasted and caramelized pineapple that tops off the meal all contribute to the atmosphere but if all you want are the meats and sides for a hefty dinner you can certainly order the meal as a take-out

Order any of the four options (top sirloin pork loin chicken wings or mild sausage) and add three sides from the list of eight which includes a variety of salads black bean stew and rice And because you canrsquot just have one kind of meat when it comes to Brazilian barbecue you can choose additional

Safari Grill

The marinated thinly sliced BBQ short beef ribs at Safari Grill are already a must-have for those in the know but we suspect even regulars will be surprised to discover that you can pick

up uncooked ribs with your choice of seven marinades to take home and BBQ yourself

With none of the associated costs of dining in $65 buys you enough ribs for 10 people and customers actually drive

meats for $4 each Finally choose the sauce yoursquod like to accompany your meal Orders for over five people will come in a big white box and individual

orders come will in regular take-out containers For big parties do call a few hours ahead All you need to make at home is the caipirinha

from Saskatchewan to take away 10-15 lb bags of these uncooked marinated ribs Some people call and ask for them to be marinated and frozen in 5 lb bags to enjoy later as just 5-7 minutes each side on a high flame has the raw ribs ready to eat

And itrsquos not only ribs that people BBQ at home Mishkaki are skewers of marinated chicken beef and prawns and for as little as $3 each you can have a very inexpensive BBQ feast Marinated raw lamb chops are also available or ask for Samaki - a marinated whole tilapia that comes with a basting sauce to brush on You can even get uncooked samosas to cook in your oven at home

All Safari Grillrsquos regular menu can be ordered for take-out but there is no published price list for uncooked dishes so people call to order and ask - but when yoursquore picking up look out for the new jars of house-made mango and lemon pickles

28

Step By Step Go Nuts With Homemade Nutella And Waffles story and photography by NATALIE FINDLAY

There are many nutritional benefits packed into these small filberts They are rich in dietary fibre packed with folate an excellent source of vitamin E and contain mono-unsaturated fatty acids that

can help lower bad cholesterol and raise good cholesterol By making your own Nutella at home you can control the amount of sugar that is added making this delicious spread basicallyhellip a health food

Hazelnuts have a tried and true following for taking the lead role in the chocolate spread Nutella This long-standing love affair has lasted simply because they add a distinct but subtle flavour to the chocolate Truly a match that is better together than apart

These delicious and super-easy waffles make a great base for your homemade Nutella With the addition of ground hazelnuts to the batter you can deepen the hazelnut flavour and pack in more health benefits

Waffles with raspberries and white chocolate spread

29

Natalie is a freelance writer photographer and pastry chef A graduate of Cordon Bleursquos pastry program she manages her own business too to create custom-made cakes

Using the same waffle recipe from above and switching out the mashed banana and adding frac12 a medium orange ndash juice and zest ndash to the batter you have a delicious orange waffle that will highlight the white chocolate hazelnut spread recipe below

Homemade White Chocolate Hazelnut Spread Makes 1frac12 cups

1frac12 cups (200 g) whole hazelnutsfrac12 cup (70 g) icing sugar2 Tbs (30 mL) canola oil1 tsp (5 mL) vanilla extract1 cup (250g) white chocolate

Follow directions for Homemade Nutella and add the melted white chocolate at the end Pulse to combine

Macerated Raspberries with Orange Serves 6

250 g fresh raspberriesfrac12 medium orange zest and juice1 Tbs icing sugarfrac12 tsp vanilla extract

Add all ingredients into a medium bowl and stir to combine Let sit for about 1 hour

Serve your warm waffles topped with your white chocolate homemade hazelnut spread macerated berries and a dollop of whipped cream or ice cream

Note Homemade Nutella has more texture than store bought and will last around 1 month in the fridge Waffles can be made ahead and frozen Thaw and reheat in the waffle maker or the oven

Banana Fruit compoteMakes enough for 6

3 ripe bananas peeled sliced into rounds2 Tbs (30 g) butter2 Tbs (30 g) brown sugar1frac12 tsp (8 mL) vanilla extract1frac12 tsp (8 mL) bourbon

1 Add butter and sugar to a sauteacute pan over medium heat As they melt stir to combine

2 Add vanilla and bourbon than add sliced bananas and sauteacute until warmed through

Serve your warm waffles topped with your homemade hazelnut spread sauteacuteed bananas and a dollop of whipped cream or ice cream

Homemade Nutella Makes 1frac12 cups

1frac12 cups (200 g) whole hazelnutsfrac34 cup (100g) icing sugar3 Tbs (45 mL) canola oilfrac14 cup (30 g) cocoa powder1 tsp (5 mL) vanilla extract

1 Toast hazelnuts on a baking pan in a preheated 350ordm F oven for 10 - 15 minutes Keep an eye on them to make sure they donrsquot start to burn Remove from oven and let cool to the touch

2 Wrap the nuts in a kitchen towel and rub together to remove the skins This should remove most of the skins

3 Place skinless hazelnuts in a food processor on high Process the nuts until they form a smooth paste and the oils start to separate (about 5 minutes) scraping the bowl often

4 Add the icing sugar cocoa powder vanilla and canola oil to the food processor and process until fully incorporated scraping bowl of processor as needed (about 2 minutes)

Hazelnut Banana WafflesMakes 6

frac12 cup (80 g) all purpose flour1 tsp baking powderfrac12 tsp baking sodaPinch sea salt1 Tbs (15 g) icing sugar1 Tbs (10 g) ground hazelnuts6 grates whole nutmeg1 tsp ground cinnamonfrac12 cup (125 mL) buttermilk1 egg yolk2 Tbs (30 g) butter meltedfrac12 small banana peeled and mashed1 egg white

1 Sift together all dry ingredients (except the ground hazelnuts) in a medium bowl Add the ground hazelnuts and combine

2 Mash the half banana in a small bowl with a fork Add the egg buttermilk and melted butter

3 Whisk the egg white to stiff peaks

4 Whisk the wet ingredients into the dry and fold the egg white into the mixture

5 Follow the directions for your waffle pan to cook waffles for around 5 minutes or until cooked through

Note Remember to bring the waffle pan up to temperature in between each batch of waffles

Hazelnut Banana Waffles with Nutella

30

Citrus Beer Friendsby DAVID NUTTALL

This is when the taste andor aroma of a beer can remind the drinker of anything from an orange drink or lemonade to grapefruit soda There are several ways to achieve this character and these beers are becoming more and more popular every day

Hops provide the bitterness in beer and out of the literally hundreds of varieties a few impart citrus notes into the aroma and flavour Cascade and Citra are examples of two of the most popular hops used in several styles of beer most notably the American IPA or India Pale Ale Cascade hops have been around for over 40 years and it is the single most popular hop used by the American craft brewing industry It provides a floralspicy character often reminiscent of grapefruit

Citrarsquos name leaves no guessing as to its attributes A relative newcomer this cross breed of UK German and US hop varieties has been around for less than a decade but it is already an extremely popular hop for imparting

One of the great things about beer is its diversity It can come in a myriad of colours and also a wide variety of flavours citrus being one of the most distinct

Dave Nuttall has been in the liquor and event business forever He is a qualified beer judge and ownerpresident of Epicurean Calgary at epicureancalgarycom for ten years

citrus and tropical fruit characteristics to a beer

It has proven very versatile and appears in several beer styles from session ales to IPAs It has also become a favourite hop to use for dry-hopping (adding hops late into the boil) due to the exceptional aromas it produces For even more flavour and aroma craft brewers now commonly enhance these already citrusy IPAs with actual zest peel or juice from citrus fruits to create an IPAFruit Beer hybrid which sells especially well in summer months

Then there is the yeast and many varieties of yeast can produce citrusy esters The unfiltered hefeweizens brewed on both sides of the Atlantic quite often have a lemony flavour Sour beers also showcase the yeast often cultured from Belgian strains

These beers are tart and produce a gamut of flavours many with citrus qualities and some have added fruit - the easiest and most obvious way to create a citrusy beer The Belgians also add different kinds of oranges with spice additions to their wheat ales to create wit beers now emulated all over the world with different citrus (and other) fruits involved in the recipe We also canrsquot forget the radlers which are simply a lager beer mixed with 40-60 fruit juice - often grapefruit or lemonade

Whether itrsquos added fruit the yeast the hops or a combination of all of them citrusy beers are commonplace now Thanks to new hops like Citra and the increasing popularity of wits and sours we can expect this trend to continue

Here are a few local beers with hints of citrus All are also available on tap

Beer comes in a myriad of colours and flavours citrus being one of the

most distinct

Ribstone Creek Great White CombineThis tiny Edgerton Alberta brewery has been knocking it out of the park lately Named after the ubiquitous Alberta summer hailstorm the use of Belgian yeast sweet orange peel and coriander give this beer an orange flavour in the beginning When the four different hop additions kick in it changes more to a sweet lemony flavour This White IPA has a very tropical feel that makes you forget it was made in northern Alberta CSPC +774162 $16 6-pack cans

Wild Rose Cowbell Sour ales are the new Belle of the Ball at craft breweries Often using imported Belgian yeast strains they are tart tangy and wellhellip sour Calgaryrsquos Wild Rose has taken this flavour profile and added kaffir lime leaves This makes the beer more like a refreshing limeade and is less bitter than many of its other sour counterparts CSPC +778093 $17 6-pack bottles

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Citradelic Single Hop IPA Big Rock BreweryWith breweries in two (soon to be three) provinces Big Rock now has multiple locations to develop new beers This is the first one from their Vancouver brewery and is full of lemongrapefruit flavours and tropical aromas This beer showcases the Citra hop fooling one to think that citrus has been added when itrsquos all thanks to the hop CSPC +778593 $15 6-pack bottles

Alley Kat Main SqueezeWhat started out as a summer seasonal has now become a mainstay of this Edmonton brewery A North American style wheat ale with a 50 wheat and 50 barley mix it has added grapefruit juice but tastes more along the lines of pink grapefruit rather than its more bitter cousin CSPC +733630 $17 6-pack bottles

32

story by RENEE KOHLMAN

Cheesecake is one of those classic desserts that almost everyone loves unless of course you have a dairy allergy then yoursquoll stay far far away from it While it may seem too complicated to make at home I assure you that itrsquos not

Spice it up cheesecake

Sure there are a few steps involved but the key thing to remember is to have your eggs and cream cheese at room temperature For the best crack-free cheesecake itrsquos best to bake it in a water bath It yields a light creamy texture and is well worth the effort Cheesecake always tastes better the next day so bake it the day before you want to serve it Now that wersquove got the basics down itrsquos time to have a little fun with the crust filling and toppings

The Base

The classic graham cracker crust is fine but every now and again itrsquos great to switch things up Try

ndash Grinding up ginger cookies They work especially well for a pumpkin cheesecake

ndash Chocolate cookie crumbs are fantastic for caramel peanut butter and raspberry cheesecakes

ndash Add finely chopped nuts oats or seeds to the cookie crumbs for added texture and taste

The Middle

Therersquos something to be said for a straight up vanilla or chocolate cheesecake but with some fun add-ins they could take your cheesecake to the next level of deliciousness Try

ndash Swirling tahini dulce de leche salted caramel or chocolate fudge sauce into a creamy vanilla filling

ndash Mix in chopped chocolate peanut butter cups to a chocolate filling

ndash Drop fresh berries (raspberries blueberries blackberries) on top of a vanilla filling

ndash Stir in chopped candied ginger dried cherries or cranberries chopped toasted nuts to the filling

ndash Swap some of the cream cheese with ricotta mascarpone cheese or even strained cottage cheese

ndash You can never go wrong with lemon zest in a vanilla cheesecake

Have a little fun with the crust filling

and toppings

33

Apple Crumble CheesecakeMakes about 12-14 servings Total cook and prep time 3 hours (plus overnight chilling)

I love apple crisp and I love cheesecake This recipe is a fine marriage of both and makes a more than acceptable breakfast The base is a crumble of oats and flour the middle is classic cheesecake and itrsquos topped with cinnamon apples and a buttery oat streusel

Crust 2 cups large flake oats1 cup all purpose flour cup packed brown sugarfrac34 cup butter meltedfrac12 tsp salt

Cheesecake Layer3 - 225 g packages cream cheese at room temperature cup granulated sugar1 tsp (5 mL) vanilla3 large eggs at room temperature cup (80 mL) whipping cream

Apple Layer2 apples peeled cored and sliced about 3-4 mm thick1 tsp ground cinnamonfrac12 tsp salt

Streusel Layer1 cup large flake oatsfrac12 cup all-purpose flourfrac12 cup brown sugarfrac12 cup butter softened1 tsp ground cinnamon

Preheat the oven to 375ordm F

1 Butter the bottom and sides of a 9-inch springform pan with sides that are at least 7 cm high Wrap the bottom of the pan in aluminum foil so it comes at least halfway up the sides

2 Combine the crust ingredients in a large bowl Press the crust evenly into the pan and place on a baking sheet Bake for 10 minutes Remove from oven and let it cool on a wire rack

3 Reduce heat to 325ordm F Put a kettle of water on to boil Have a large roasting pan close by

4 Using a stand mixer with a paddle attachment beat the cream cheese at medium speed for 4 minutes scraping down the sides once or twice until it is soft and creamy With the mixer still running add the sugar and beat for another 4 minutes scraping down the sides of the bowl at least twice Beat in the vanilla Add the eggs one at a time beating for 1 minute after each addition and scraping the bowl Reduce speed to low and add the whipping cream

5 Toss the sliced apples with the cinnamon and salt in a small bowl Combine all of the streusel ingredients in a medium bowl and mix well

6 Place the springform pan in the roasting pan Give the cheesecake batter a good stir and pour it on top of the crust Arrange the apples on top and sprinkle the streusel on top of the apples

7 Place in the oven on the middle rack and pour the hot water into the roasting pan so it comes halfway up the sides of the springform pan

8 Bake the cheesecake for 1frac12 hours Turn off the heat prop open the oven door and let the cheesecake hang inside for another hour

9 Carefully remove from the oven and take out the cheesecake from the hot water bath Remove the foil and let the cheesecake come to room temperature on a wire rack Cover the top lightly and refrigerate for at least 4 hours but overnight is best The next day remove the sides of the pan and serve the cake

Renee is a food writer and pastry chef living in beautiful Saskatoon Saskatchewan Her columns appear in The Saskatoon StarPhoenix and her desserts can be enjoyed at Riverside Country Club Also check out her blog wwwsweetsugarbeancom

The Toppings

Cheesecake with no fun toppings is like a salad with no dressing it just doesnrsquot reach its full flavour potential Try

ndash Salted caramel roasted strawberry sauce or warm chocolate sauce

ndash A rhubarbcardamom compote is divine on top of vanilla cheesecake kissed with a bit of lemon zest Cherry compote is divine with chocolate cheesecake

ndash Have a favourite jam Melt it down with a tiny bit of water and drizzle it on top of your favourite cheesecake

ndash Candied nuts and citrus rind chocolate shavings even crumbled cookies are a fun way to add texture to the cheesecake

ndash Never underestimate the power of fresh seasonal berries and a well-made cheesecakeMacerate them in a little sugar and minced mint or basil and they make a lovely topping Donrsquot forget the whipped cream

34

Think about that for a moment and let that sink in like a cherry in your drink

So how old is ice in bars Well thatrsquos a whole story on its own however the Old Fashioned has been talked about in one form or another since the beginning of the 19th Century The first appearance of this classic cocktail was in the Balance and Columbian Repository newspaper in 1806 as such ldquoA stimulating liquor composed of spirits of any kind sugar water and bittersrdquo

The Old FashionedAn Iconic Drink That Has Stood The Test Of Time

by BRICE PERESSINI

Sohelliphow old is the Old Fashioned The Old Fashioned is as old as ice in bars

When you follow these instructions and put this finely-crafted cocktail into your hand swirl around the ice gaze through the caramel-coloured liquid in the glass and contemplate all that has gone into it you can rest assured you are holding a drink that has delighted taste buds for generations The Old Fashioned however has not always been held in high regard There was a time not too long ago where this fine concoction was an unbalanced fruity watered-down pale imitation of itself More recently

there has been a renaissance involved with this invigorating intoxicant and you can and should expect a proper cocktail when it is ordered at a fine establishment

When this drink is properly prepared it should be in perfect balance (as any proper drink should be) The sweetness of the sugar should not cover the flavour of the bourbon and the bitters should add to not overpower the flavour of the whiskey When the Old Fashioned is well made it is as close to cocktail perfection as a sophisticated patron could expect

Befriend a bespoke barkeep at an upstanding establishment and you will be in trusted hands If you find yourself at home and wanting for a nightcap look no further than the Old Fashioned

Enjoy friends

Old Fashioned Recipe

2 oz Buffalo Trace Bourbon (or your personal favourite)4 dashes Angostura Aromatic Bitters1 raw sugar cube

Muddle the sugar and bitters together with a touch of warm water in a rocks glass Add the bourbon then add ice Stir and garnish with an orange peel and cherry (optional)

Brice is a competition cocktail bartender who plies his trade behind the wood at Chefbar Whisk(e)y is his poison Neat

35

Shoulder Season Wines

by JACLYN ADOMEIT

Wines For Cool Weather

Refreshing white wines match with sunny patios and hot days while bold tannic red wines earn their keep by a fireplace on a winter night Common sense But what about the shoulder season What if yoursquore eating sea bass on a rainy spring day Or sipping wine on a patio during an uncommonly warm April afternoon

Photograph courtesy Tom Firth

36

Wine not only pairs with food but with temperatures and seasons A bright sauvignon blanc can taste flat and acidic on a cold night at no fault of the wine or the drinker Some white wines are other-worldly at the vineyard tasting room in the summer but fall flat when you pull them out for dinner guests in the winter

The change in taste is likely due to a number of factors Anatomically it is your sinus cavities creating the change Higher atmospheric pressures allow your nose to pick out subtle aromas while lower pressures bring out a winersquos acidity and harsh tannins CO2 degasses from liquid at low pressure leaving wines dull and flat too

Serving temperature can greatly affect a winersquos aromatics white wines chilled to near-freezing have dull aromas (Tip allow the bottle a half hour on the counter before popping the cork This will allow the aromatics to warm up enhancing the flavour)

Lastly your own palate will be partial to different flavours depending on sun snow wind and sleet but as a rule of thumb higher alcohol white wines (approximately 13 percent or more) will warm the soul and pair best with cooler weather

Here are some wine selections to go for when it is not too hot and not too cold so you can choose a pairing thatrsquos just right

Fiano

Yoursquoll notice that many of the best white wines for cold weather are grown in hot places Hot climates mean a longer growing season more sugar which leads to higher alcohol and often more robust and tropical flavours All of this is true for fiano - seldom grown outside of Campania in southern Italy Fiano produces age-worthy wines which are rich nutty and delicious

Feudi Di San Gregorio 2014 Campania Fiano di Avellino Italy A beautiful floral bouquet with candied lemon followed by honey-coated hazelnuts on the palate Worth cellaring for a few seasons The perfect dance partner for poultry CSPC +708589 $33

Viognier

Viognier is a white varietal that is best consumed at slightly higher temperatures A chilly glass of viognier will leave you with acid maybe oak and not much else Allow it to warm and you may experience peach pear and toasted almond

Traditionally grown in the warm south of France viognier is often a higher alcohol white wine with rich tropical flavours The heat of the alcohol with tropical flavours and lower acid makes viognier the perfect wine to sip while watching a late spring snowfall

Paul Mas 2014 Languedoc-Roussillon Viognier France Brimming with apricot almond lemon and ripe peach Contains hints of warming oak Pair with something savoury baked brie or spinach-filled puff pastry CSPC + 740978 $17

Dry Roseacute

There is so much more to be had from roseacute than white zinfandel And no itrsquos not just a mix of red and white wine The best roseacute is made from red skinned grapes that only sit on their skins for up to a day and a half to borrow colour and flavour then are fermented and processed

Refined examples of roseacute wines are often dry and have deep aromas of red fruits mild tannins and are savoury instead of sweet The French and Spanish craft great examples of dry roseacutes that are either a single varietal or a blend of grapes such as mourvegravedre grenache syrah or tempranillo

Muga Roseacute 2014 Rioja Grenache Viura and Tempranillo Spain A tamed Rioja Orange blossom woven together with strawberry and a palate of cherry and savoury soft cheese Ideal for charcuterie CSPC + 710261 $16

Orange Wine

Never heard of orange wine A commercial demand for natural wines has fostered a resurgence in ancient wine making practices While roseacute wines are reds that have been produced using white wine making practices orange wines are created from white grapes submitted to maceration and allowed to sit on the skins before fermentation the same practice employed in red winemaking

Unlike any white you have tasted orange wines are full-bodied have mild tannins and deep flavours - the characteristics that allow red wines to bring warmth to cool nights A must try for any wine buff

Allow the bottle a half hour on the counter

before popping the cork

The Bicicleta wines are characterized by their fruity expression and for offering more than

the traditional strains a clear example of this range`s innovation style and creativity

Cono Sur Vineyards amp Winery ConoSurVineyards ConoSurWinesconosurcom

The brewhouse at Wild Rose

Jaclynrsquos first passion was winemaking Shersquos worked in vineyards cellars and restaurants Currently she is a writer who daylights as an environmental engineer She believes that a good life like a good wine is not complete without balance

Nichol 2013 Naramata Pinot Gris Canada A Canadian example of orange wine with backbone Flavours of caramel apple roast nuts orange rind and peach CSPC +504159 $31

Oaked chardonnay

In and out with popular palates oak and chardonnay have been partners for a long time Oak paired with chardonnay can bring out butter richness toasted vanilla tree fruit and in the best examples shimmering minerality That is because oak aging is often accompanied by a malolactic fermentation process that smooths out rigid acids into lactic acid - the acid found in milk

Chardonnay is a grape of many talents and encounters a great diversity of production styles It is oaked examples that pair best with pensive rainy days They are full-bodied warming and complex

Wente Morning Fog 2014 Livermore Valley (California) Chardonnay USA Half oak-aged and malolactic-fermented half crisp and fresh this chardonnay brings together green apple vanilla and toasted oak A friend to cream sauce and roast chicken CSPC +175430 $18

In a province of mutable weather let your wine choices be as varied as the ever changing winds Cheers and herersquos to refined full-bodied cool-weather wines

38

Once yoursquore done with your magazine cover shoot like we did this month or prepping for dinner and have all of those odds and ends just sitting on the cutting board - you know carrot ends onion skins tips of celery stalks you get the point - donrsquot toss lsquoem

Instead place them into a large ziploc bag and straight into the freezer After a couple of weeks yoursquoll likely have four full freezer bags of vegetable bits ready to be turned into broth and herersquos how you do it

Making a big batch of vegetable broth doesnrsquot always mean a trip to the grocery store All you need to do is save those scraps This is a handy trick I learned years ago courtesy of Bon Appetit

No-Waste Vegetable Broth

by DAN CLAPSON

Odds And Ends BrothYields 8 cups (2 L)

12 cups (3 L) water4 full ziploc bags of vegetable trimmings1 yellow onion quartered4 cloves garlicAromatics of choice (I usually toss a couple of rosemary and thyme sprigs in there)To taste Salt and pepper

1 Place all ingredients in a large pot and bring to a boil on medium-high heat

2 Reduce to medium heat and let simmer uncovered for 1frac12 hours

3 Strain season to taste with salt and pepper and use as desired

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40

Salentein 2012 Reserve Chardonnay Uco Valley Argentina

Very very enjoyable chardonnay blowing me away with complexity varietal character and fine balance between oak lees and fruit Toffee baked apple tangerine and a little almond on the nose lead into silkily textured wine in the mouth Top shelf chardonnay that might be great with lobster tails mussels or poultry Around $20 CSPC +779479

Rutini 2013 Cabernet Malbec Mendoza Argentina

An exceptionally well put together blend - if you want rich berry fruits lots of body but maybe not tons of varietal characters from the individual components Lifted and bright fruits make for a very enjoyable glass Simply perfect for your next barbecue a roast or just chilling out with friends and family $26-30 CSPC +776822

Vinecol 2014 Organic Malbec Mendoza Argentina Fair Trade organic and vegan along with a good price is it still good Piles of fresh fruits (think smashed raspberries) with plenty of spice and soft herb-leaf aromas There are plenty of malbec flavours on the palate too Good for any day of the week with just a little tension between fruit tannin and acid it might be best with pub style burgers pulled pork or sausages About $16 CSPC +755296

Argentina is so much more than malbec While such a noble grape has found its best home in the high altitude vineyards of Argentina there is a lot going on with other grapes as well

Making The Case For Argentina

by TOM FIRTH

This massive country nestled up against the Andes mountains has a range of growing conditions suited to a number of grapes From Salta in the north to Patagonia in the south plenty of interesting wines are available here - many reasonably priced and of excellent quality So yes there are some

malbecs on these pages but please do try some of the other grapes and blends coming from Argentina too

Be sure to crack open a bottle of malbec on ldquoWorld Malbec Dayrdquo April 17 - who knows it might be nice enough to barbecue too

Photograph courtesy Tom Firth

41

Manos Negras 2011 Stone Soil Select Mendoza Argentina Quite new to the market this is a pretty enjoyable version of Argentinarsquos flagship grape Loads of blue fruit and raspberries with spices galore and a little compost Rich flavours lead to a lengthy spicy finish Yes please Bring to a barbecue if you can $21 CSPC +630541

Zuccardi 2012 Zeta Mendoza Argentina

A malbec-cabernet sauvignon blend that is also a blend of two different Mendoza appellations La Consulta and Gualtallary Deep and abundant fruit aromas with liquorice root and a touch of blueberry preserves Excellent balance of flavours on the palate too with the right structure and tannin for aging if desired Enjoy with a prime rib or even meaty pasta dishes or game $50-52 CSPC +740270

Zuccardi 2012 ldquoEmmardquo Bonarda Mendoza Argentina

In my humble opinion one of the finest bonardas coming out of Argentina Notes of coffee bean and espresso complement cherry and blackberry fruits with healthy balanced tannins to stand up to the tart fruits Delicious for sure enjoy at your next barbecue $40 CSPC +758407

Luigi Bosca 2011 Cabernet-Malbec Mendoza Argentina

A wonderfully earthy and savoury blend with plenty of tobacco spice leather and yes lots of fruit too The earthy flavours work well with the big dark chocolate flavours and weighty tannins Drink now or through 2020 or so - with a steak naturally $22-24 CSPC +766010

Trivento 2013 Golden Reserve Malbec Lujan de Cuyo Argentina While there is a trend to see a lot of premium malbecs move away from oak presence this one is a bold smooth and delicious example that is seeing about a year of oak All those berry fruits plums and herb notes malbec is known for along with the smoothness that only oak brings Kick back relax maybe cook up some steaks - enjoy About $24 CSPC +711402

Trivento 2014 Malbec Reserve Mendoza Argentina Nearly unbeatable for good malbec at a great price itrsquos rich and chocolatey on the nose with big fruits and oak tones too Mild garrigue notes or dried herb flavours with plenty of fruit and tannins - still showing a fine sense of balance Enjoy with beef $14 CSPC +730714

Luigi Bosca 2011 De Sangre Mendoza Argentina A blend of cabernet sauvignon merlot and syrah that manages to pull out the best of each varietal Earthy and slightly smoky with good fruits and plenty of versatility Tannins are well-placed against the fruits with a long smooth finish Irsquove been a fan of this wine year after year Good to keep a couple on hand in the cellar About $29 CSPC +745106

Salentein 2012 Numina Gran Corte Uco Valley Argentina A malbec-dominated Bordeaux blend this stunner is all about ripe fruits cedar pepper cherries and plum with a little tealeaf and the right amount of tannins Very very well balanced and like any great wine think about some food to go with it Beef tenderloin slow cooked meats or maybe at your next asadohellip About $40 CSPC +764706

Colonia Las Liebres 2013 Bonarda Mendoza Argentina Bear with me here - a fine bonarda with plenty of earthy smoky aromas leading to rubber charred cherries and cocoa Some pretty prominent tannins to be found as well but wow does it all come together A wine that just begs for duck with cranberries or maybe some kebabshellip$20 CSPC +773381

42

Open That Bottleby LINDA GARSON photography by INGRID KUENZEL

ldquoIf you work in a place and yoursquore miserable I donrsquot know if there is a dollar amount that can be attached to that The work that yoursquore doing has to be rewarding and challengingrdquo says Karen KhoGrowing up in Niagara Falls in a Philippino SpanishChinese family Kho was surrounded by food and drinks with an open door policy that has had a huge influence on the person she is today - an

entertainer who likes to make people feel welcome ldquoMy parents wanted me to be a lawyer there was definitely an encouragement to use my voice for goodrdquo she explains ldquoAnd I still think I help people but in a different way a very social wayrdquo

Graduating Western University with a political science degree in 2000 Kho spent a year travelling and living in Australia before taking a leap of faith and moving to Calgary Here she studied wine with the International Sommeliers Guild and WSET but says her real education was a job she adored working in the wine trade at BIN 905 in tandem with running wine programs for CRMR restaurants It was only when the opportunity came to create the wine program at Vin Room six years later that Kho leapt at the challenge of a new idea for the city and spent four happy years there

Eventually she and her partner decided to stretch their wings and went to Vancouver where Kho embarked on a six-month culinary course at the Pacific Institute of Culinary Arts ticking off another box on her bucket list ldquoI wanted a greater understanding of technique in the kitchen and I wanted an understanding of what service on a very basic level would look like if I ever owned my own place and ever had to be the person who filled inrdquo she says ldquoI feel if I was ever in a place that needed someone to chop onions Irsquom your womanrdquo she laughs

A year later the pair came back with the idea of eventually opening their own business in Calgary ldquoThe support we get from this community is heartfelt and this is a city of opportunity People with the right concept are seeing a lot of great success itrsquos still our game planrdquo she says Meanwhile Kho applied only to Teatro where she is now Group Service Director

ldquoI wanted to work at a place that had a challenging wine program and had a level of service with high expectations and where professional service teams

applyrdquo she says ldquoItrsquos pretty romantic to work for a company that has been built on a foundation of service Successful businesses in the restaurant industry get the grand picture which is the moments that yoursquore creating for people and I like to be a part of thatrdquo she adds

So what bottle is Kho saving for a special occasion

Paying homage to her time at BIN 905 Kho explains ldquoI have a bottle of 1996 Chateau Mouton Rothschild which was given to me with some very kind words on my last day at BIN Irsquove always just appreciated my time there it was where I learned the vernacular of wine and itrsquos my first job where I really saw the benefits of serving people with intentionrdquo She continues ldquoI always see it thankfully as the stepping-stone to a broader wine profession and eventually to the position that I have now It was given to me by very close friends that Irsquom still friends with to this dayrdquo

And when is she planning to open the wine

ldquoWhen (partner) Dave and I open our own restaurantrdquo Kho says This isnrsquot something that something that will happen tomorrow but fortunately the wine will last until theyrsquore ready

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12

Tricks Chefs Tipsstory by ROBYN MACLEAN photography by INGRID KUENZEL Knives

The most important tool in any kitchen without a doubt is a good knife As Iron Chef Masahari Morimoto would say ldquoa kitchen without a knife is not a kitchenrdquo

I couldnrsquot agree more

For professional cooks knives are practically an extension of their hands and probably better cared for But a quality knife is just as essential for home cooks If yoursquore even slightly inclined to cook at home at the very least you should own a classic 20 cm chefrsquos knife ndash the go-to knife for the brunt of daily kitchen tasks

But itrsquos certainly not the only knife you should have in your arsenal Slicing dicing filleting butchering and julienning become a whole lot easier when you use the right knife for the job and these three Calgary chefs share their favourite model and a recipe to help point you in the right direction

䈀甀礀 琀栀攀 琀漀瀀 栀愀氀昀 漀昀 愀渀礀 戀漀琀琀氀攀 漀昀 眀椀渀攀 戀攀琀眀攀攀渀 瀀洀ⴀ㘀瀀洀 愀渀搀 最攀琀 琀栀攀 戀漀琀琀漀洀 琀栀攀 昀甀渀 栀愀氀昀⤀ 昀漀爀 䘀刀䔀䔀

䘀刀

䔀䔀

䴀伀一䐀䄀夀 ⴀ 䘀刀䤀䐀䄀夀 瀀洀 ⴀ㘀瀀洀

瀀爀椀挀攀 戀漀琀琀氀攀猀 漀昀 眀椀渀攀㔀 戀漀琀琀氀攀猀 漀昀 戀攀攀爀㔀 栀椀最栀戀愀氀氀猀

䠀䄀䰀䘀 䘀刀䔀䔀 圀䤀一䔀

㔀 㔀 Ⰰ 㠀 䄀 瘀 攀 匀 圀 Ⰰ 䌀 愀 氀 最 愀 爀 礀 Ⰰ 䄀 䈀 吀 倀 䜀

Pacific Albacore Tuna CrudoServes 4

335 g Pacific albacore tuna 1 honey crisp or granny smith apple 4 cloves of garlic thinly sliced frac12 tsp ground espelette chili frac14 cup (60 mL) sunflower oil frac14 cup (60 mL) flax oil 1 Tbs lightly toasted flax seed 8 pickled string beans (keep some pickling liquid)4 slices of prosciutto 1 Tbs (1 mL) rice vinegar Pea shoots Good quality finishing salt like fleur de sel

1 Slice garlic as thinly as possible and combine with sunflower oil in a small saucepan Heat slowly and allow the garlic to fry until golden brown Remove from heat and add the ground espelette chili

2 Allow the oil to steep for 15-20 minutes at room temperature Once cool add flax oil

Chef Matthias Fong

3 Slice 8 pickled string beans thinly into rounds

4 Dice the apple into 1 cm cubes and add a splash of the pickled string bean liquid as well as rice vinegar add to the sliced string beans

5 Set up 4 plates Slice the tuna into frac34 cm thick slices and lay out 85 g per plate Using the finishing salt season the tuna to taste

6 Pull the prosciutto slices apart into bite-sized pieces and scatter them with the tuna slices

7 Drizzle 1 Tbs (15 mL) flax oil over each plate with a few slices of the fried garlic from the oil on each plate

8 Scatter the apple and string bean mixture over the slices of tuna being sure to spoon some of the pickling liquid from the bowl over the tuna slices Finish with pea shoot tips and toasted flax seed

Chef Matthias FongRiver Cafeacute

A good quality knife is made from high quality steel usually German or Japanese which will stay sharp for a long period of time and has the potential to last a lifetime

Owning a stainless steel knife versus one made from high carbon steel is also extremely beneficial in any kitchen Itrsquos easy for a knife to end up in the sink which can leave non-stainless varieties rusted and ruined

ldquoRegardless of style or brand itrsquos never safe to let knives go dull Dull knives lead to excessive force and can easily slip off the product yoursquore cuttingrdquo cautions Fong

ldquoTo properly care for a knife I recommend investing in some sharpening stone andor a ceramic honing rod which prolongs the life of your knife and requires less sharpening I also suggest signing up for a class to learn the art of sharpening or just take your knives directly to the folks at Knifewear and theyrsquoll gladly maintain for yourdquo

ldquoMy go-to knife is the Tojiro Flash 825-inch slicer Itrsquos short in length making it versatile for a variety of uses I use it for the majority of my prep work but itrsquos ideal for slicing and carving The narrow blade allows for paper thin slicing on delicate fish like tunardquo says Fong

ldquoI favour the Tojiro line of knives because they offer stainless Japanese steel thatrsquos easy to sharpen and repairrdquo

14

Chef Kai SalimaumlkiThe Block

Chef Salimaumlki is all about a great multipurpose knife ldquoI love the Masakage Kumo Petty 150 mm knife Itrsquos ideal for numerous tasks in the kitchen but I especially love it for chopping fine herbs Itrsquos lightweight and has a remarkably sharp edge that has chives bouncing from under it in perfect uniform circlesrdquo he explains

The Petty knife is ideal for smaller jobs such as slicing shallots cutting herbs and boning smaller proteins And because of its size itrsquos also a great alternative for those who feel uncomfortable wielding a larger heavier chefrsquos knife

ldquoI would recommend this knife for the home cook as it can replace many utility knives people seem to collect in drawers And of course most importantly I recommend proper love attention and care to ensure you keep this tool functioning for a very long timerdquo

You simply canrsquot do your best without your equipment at its best

Chef Jorel ZielkeBrasserie Kensington and Winebar

ldquoIrsquom a huge fan of my 10frac34-inch MAC chefrsquos knife This multipurpose knife is modeled after the standard French chefrsquos kniferdquo says Zielke

Sirloin Beef TartareServes 2

335 g AAA beef sirloin2 Tbs (30 mL) grainy mustard cup minced shallots Tbs minced gherkins2 Tbs cup finely chopped parsley Worcestershire sauce to tasteHot sauce to tasteCold pressed canola oil to taste 1 egg yolk in tact with all whites removedPinch of fresh grated horseradishSalt and pepper

1 Finely dice the sirloin removing any connective tissue or silver-skin Do not trim off the fat Pass over the meat several times with your knife

2 Mix in mustard shallots gherkins parsley Worcestershire hot sauce oil and salt and pepper

3 Note All garnish measurements are suggestions as tartares vary to personal taste Add enough oil to moisten dish but be careful not to oversaturate

4 Top tartare with raw egg yolk and freshly grated horseradish

5 Serve with anything you can pick it up with such as crostini crackers fresh bread fresh heirloom tomato or crisp lettuce

ldquoI canrsquot emphasize enough the importance of respecting your tools by keeping them clean and properly functioning to avoid safety issues You simply canrsquot do your best without your equipment at its bestrdquo

ldquoA sharp knife is key when dicing raw meat like in my recipe belowrdquo he continues ldquoKeep in mind that itrsquos not firm like an onion or a stick of celery Meat shifts and moves as you prepare it so itrsquos important to slow down and take your time when preparing a dish like tartarerdquo

Chef Jorel Zielke

Chef Kai Salimaumlki

15

Robyn is a public relations professional and occasional writer with a passion for food and beverages Despite city hopping from her home in Calgary to Anchorage AK you can still find her on Twitter robynalana

Braised Brisket with Carrot Puree and Napa Cabbage Serves 4

900 ndash 1125 g brisket5 carrots peeled and sliced 12-16 baby potatoes 1 head of Napa cabbage julienned5 parsnips peeled and sliced 2 tomatoes quartered2 yellow onions quartered1 yellow onion thinly sliced6 sprigs of thyme4 sprigs of rosemary 6 whole cloves of garlic3-4 Tbs butter1 Tbs black peppercornsCanola oil4 cups (1 L) beef stock or water1 cup (240 mL) of milkHoney to tasteSalt and pepper 1 Season brisket liberally with salt and pepper (you can braise whole or cut it into smaller chunks)

2 In a large sauteacute pan heat canola oil until it has reached its smoking point Sear the meat on all sides until golden brown and caramelized

3 Remove from pan and place in a large ovenproof baking dish covering with beef stock (or water) Add peppercorns two sprigs of rosemary 4 sprigs of thyme whole garlic tomatoes and the quartered onions

4 Cover with tin foil and braise for approximately for 3-3frac12 hours at 325ordm F or until fork tender

5 Remove from the braising juices spoon off any excess fat and strain juices into a saucepot reduce on a medium heat until a nice thick sauce has formed

6 For carrot puree add two tablespoons of butter in a heavy bottomed saucepan and sauteacute sliced onion and diced carrots together over medium heat Yoursquore not looking to brown the vegetables but rather simmer in the butter

7 After 10 minutes cover the mixture with milk add 2 sprigs of thyme and season with salt Simmer until soft and tender

8 Strain the carrots and reserve the milk throw out the thyme sprigs Place the carrots and onions in a blender and slowly add the milk until a nice puree is achieved check seasoning and thickness and adjust if necessary Set aside 9 Sauteacute julienned cabbage in a tablespoon of butter season with salt and add 2 tablespoons of water Reduce heat and cook for 5 minutes stirring frequently

ldquoI recommend proper love attention and care to ensure you keep this tool functioning for a

very long timerdquo

10 Toss sliced carrots and parsnips with honey chopped rosemary and thyme season with salt and pepper and roast in the oven for an hour at 325ordm F or until tender 11 Boil the baby potatoes in heavily salted water until fork tender

12 To serve set up 4 plates and spoon carrot puree on the bottom of the plate in a circle Arrange potatoes carrots and parsnips around the plate place Napa cabbage in the middle and place brisket on top Spoon the reduced braising liquid over the meat

16

As Nemeth chats with customers other vendors and friends who stop by her enthusiastic greetings and joyous laughter are hard to ignore mdash this is a woman who clearly likes people In fact she loves them Warm hearty and full of surprises the words used to describe Nemethrsquos personality can just as easily be used to describe her soup

The Primal Soup Co is a fairly new entity mdash the frozen containers of soup with flavours like Mango Butternut Squash Spinach Artichoke and Feta and Thai Coconut Chicken first showed up at the Market on MacLeod (then the

Going To MarketPrimal Soup Company Finds Its Homeby ELIZABETH CHORNEY-BOOTH photography by INGRID KUENZEL

If you happen to spy Margaret Nemeth at one of her Primal Soup Company booths at the Crossroads Market or the Market on MacLeod yoursquoll immediately see that the energetic atmosphere of a Farmersrsquo Market suits her

Kingsland Farmersrsquo Market) in 2011 mdash but Nemeth is not new to the food and beverage game

Long-time Calgarians may recognize the Primal name and the taste of Nemethrsquos homemade soups from the now defunct Primal Grounds Cappuccino Bar and Eatery in Killarney which Nemeth owned and ran from 1996 through to 2010

Nemeth opened that business after a career in oil and gas and the stand-alone cafeacute was a solid success for her Not only did it serve up great coffee Nemeth quickly made a name for herself with her homemade soup creations All homemade and gluten-free (due to Nemethrsquos own dietary restrictions) Primal Grounds was catering to people with gluten intolerances long before it became fashionable

ldquoWe were pioneers and it was so much funrdquo Nemeth says ldquoThere were lots of ups and downs but it was a good liferdquo

ldquoWhen yoursquore in a market you have to give people reasons to stoprdquo

Margaret Nemeth

17

Nemeth sold the cafeacute when a real estate developer made her an offer she couldnrsquot refuse but she still felt the urge to be around people and feed them So she set up shop in the markets - first the Market on MacLeod and then in January of 2015 she opened a stall in the rebranded Crossroads Market

Elizabeth Chorney-Booth is a Calgary-based writer and co-founderco-editor of RollingSpooncom and Wapawekkacom She enjoys exploring the connection between music and food through interviews with musicians and chefs

Primal Soup also sells lunch items like gourmet macaroni and cheese sandwiches and homemade pies and pastries so that market wanderers can stop by the stall and grab a full lunch while perusing the soup cooler for something to take home for a future meal

ldquoWhen yoursquore in a market you have to give people reasons to stoprdquo Nemeth says ldquoSo we offer things to go with the soup which also gives them ideas for what they can do at home Or sometimes theyrsquoll come for a sandwich and then theyrsquoll look at the soups You have to give people reasons to be in this spacerdquo

ldquoWe were pioneers and it was so much funrdquo

Whatever Nemeth is doing it seems to be working Between the two farmersrsquo markets and specialty retailers like the Market on 17th Sunnyside Market and SPUD delivery boxes Primal Soup Co sells over 1000 containers of soup every week Nemeth develops the recipes herself but has hired a full-time chef to keep up with the demand Personality and strategic stall locations in busy farmersrsquo markets alone isnrsquot enough to move that kind of volume of soup mdash while Nemeth has made smart business decisions over the course of Primalrsquos various incarnations the key to her success really lies in the product itself Everything is made from scratch without the aid of pre-bought soup bases and Nemeth uses seasonal ingredients (only 20 to 30 of her 50 soup varieties are ever available at any given time) supporting her neighbours at the markets when possible Her meat stocks are built from organic chicken bones Wintersrsquo turkey carcasses and duck bones from fellow market vendor Green Eggs and Ham to build a rich and delicious broth ldquoI layer my soupsrdquo Nemeth says ldquoI donrsquot just throw everything in the pot together And there has to be a twist in every one There has to be something

that you donrsquot expect mdash a surprise in every boxrdquo

To bring things full circle Nemeth has a new venture that just opened kitty corner to her Primal Soup stall in the Crossroads Market a beautiful and shiny new Primal Grounds coffee location With a long counter for people to sit at for as long as they like (Nemeth jokes that itrsquos the perfect place for bored spouses to sit while their partners shop the market) itrsquos an updated nod to what got Primal Soup started in the first place

And itrsquos also a testament to Nemethrsquos dedication to market life mdash the lack of control she has over her own hours and some other aspects arenrsquot perfect but the busyness the proximity to like-minded vendors and most of all the people she gets to interact with on a constant basis has put Nemeth exactly where she belongs ldquoYoursquore only as strong as the market is collectivelyrdquo she says ldquoItrsquos different than being a restaurant but I have to say itrsquos the funnest thing Irsquove ever donerdquo

ldquoThere has to be something that you donrsquot

expect mdash a surprise in every boxrdquo

18

Soup Kitchenstory and photography by DAN CLAPSON

The fresh hang-up-your-winter-jacket feeling is finally in the air ndash and that my friends is a wonderful thing Gone are the days where wersquove looked forward to spooning into a big bowl of creamy soup or sitting down to some chicken noodle soup to help shake off the winter sniffles These days Irsquom more concerned with light and bright flavours and less calorie-ridden meals

so I wonrsquot look completely undesirable in a swimsuit come June

Here are two great recipes that just happen to be vegan but are bursting with flavour

Serves 5 Total cook time 35 minutes

6 cups (15 L) vegetable broth1 cup (240 mL) white wine1 cup (240 mL) water2 Tbs (30 mL) tomato paste2 cups dry green lentils1 red onion halved and thinly sliced1 small fennel bulb halved and thinly sliced2 tsp (10 mL) maple syrup1 tsp dried oreganofrac12 tsp ground turmericfrac12 tsp chili flakesfrac12 tsp ground cinnamon1 pinch nutmeg2 cups thinly sliced red Swiss chardTo taste salt and pepper

1 Place broth wine water and tomato paste in a large pot and bring to a simmer on medium-high heat Add lentils and cook for 15 minutes

2 Add onion fennel maple syrup and spices and continue to cook for 15 minutes

Spiced Green Lentil and Chard Soup

3 Add Swiss chard and cook until leaves are tender about 2-3 minutes Season to taste with salt and pepper and serve

Dan Clapson is a freelance food writer and columnist in Calgary When hersquos not writing about Canadarsquos amazing culinary scene he is likely listening to 80s rock or 90s boy bands Follow him on twitter dansgoodside

Spinach and Cashew Soup with Poblano and Scallion Salsa

Serves 4 Total cook time 30 minutes not including cashew soak time

Soup1frac12 cups roasted cashews2 cups (500 mL) water4 cups (1 L) vegetable broth4 cups cooked spinach1 Tbs (15 mL) apple cider vinegar1 Tbs (15 mL) maple syrupfrac12 tsp cayenne peppersalt and pepper to tastecashew butter for garnish optional

1 Place cashews and water in a container cover and let sit on counter overnight

2 Combine cashews water and remaining soup ingredients in a blender and pureacutee until very smooth

3 Pour contents of blender through a fine mesh strainer into a medium pot Bring to a simmer on medium-high heat and cook for 15 minutes Season to taste with salt and pepper and keep warm on stove until ready to serve

4 Place a couple of spoonfuls of the salsa into each bowl and ladle soup around it Add a couple of dollops of cashew butter for a little extra richness

Salsa1 large poblano pepper halved and seeds removed1 bunch scallions2 Tbs (30 mL) canola oil2 Tbs fresh mint roughly chopped1 tsp (5 mL) lemon juicefrac12 tsp cane sugarfrac12 tsp chili flakessalt and pepper to taste

1 Preheat oven to 400ordm F

2 Place poblano halves and scallions on a baking sheet drizzle with oil and roast until slightly charred about 15-18 minutes

3 Remove from oven allow to cool slightly then give them a rough chop

4 Add to a bowl with remaining ingredients and toss to combine Season liberally with salt and pepper

20

Photograph courtesy California Wine Institute

Ever since Napa Valley cabernet sauvignons and chardonnays bested their more historic counterparts from Bordeaux and Burgundy in the now-famous Judgment of Paris tasting in 1976 California and its flagship region have carried the torch for the bold dense fruity lushly oaked wines that brought them worldwide fame

Forty years later this sun-drenched style of wines remains both unapologetically enjoyable and wildly popular and Napa is on the bucket list of any devoted wine tourist But as tastes and trends start to evolve away from a focus on power and concentration towards greater elegance and food-friendliness winemakers in California are again taking to the frontier gravitating towards the statersquos physical and climatic extremes to explore new boundaries of flavour and complexity Californiarsquos cooler corners

California Coolby PETER VETSCH

California is a land of frontiers dangling on the edge of the Pacific home of the Gold Rush and epicentre of the New Worldrsquos insurgence onto the global wine scene

are fast becoming its second face in the world of wine

Sonoma County north of San Francisco and just west of Napa is probably Californiarsquos second best-known region almost equally recognized for its cabernets chardonnays and zinfandels The largest subregion in the county taking up almost a third of its total area is the western Sonoma Coast too expansive at 500000 acres to have a distinct identity

However the western border of this appellation a razorrsquos edge straddling the ocean locally known as the ldquotruerdquo Sonoma Coast showcases the regionrsquos true character - extreme viticulture wet cool and always windy at elevations up to 2000 feet balanced on the San Andreas Fault with many vines growing above the fog line and constantly exposed to the throes of the Pacific Pinot noir takes on a unique expression here on low-yielding vines in the cool above the rest of Sonoma offering both remarkable purity of fruit and astonishing acidity and structure

Pinot is also predominant in the relatively new Santa Rita Hills subregion of the Santa Ynez Valley located an hour and a half northwest of Los Angeles and similarly perched right alongside the ocean The maritime influence dominates the microclimate and counteracts the California sun with fog and cool breezes to the point where this coastal spot becomes a near ideal substitute for chilly Burgundy Here the core Burgundian varietals of pinot noir and chardonnay thrive in a particularly striking edgy way

Santa Ynez is the only wine region in the western hemisphere where the arearsquos defining mountain range runs east-west instead of north-south creating a sort of maritime wind tunnel that sucks cold Pacific air eastward This leads to some of the largest diurnal (day to night) temperature shifts in North America and allows inland grapes ripening in the scorching daytime heat to recharge and maintain acidity at night This special geological feature allows a wide range of reds in Santa Ynez to be juicy but still structured bold yet balanced from cabernet and merlot to syrah and grenache

Halfway between the Sonoma Coast to the north and the Santa Rita Hills to the south along yet another coastline

California can comfortably both provide continuity

and defy stereotype

Wine Picks

Peter is a local lawyer by day and wine writer by night maintaining his own wine blog at popandpourca He is always on the lookout for the next way to experience wine and the next good bottle to try

A LITTLE SIBLING RIVALRY NEVER HURT ANYBODY

FOUR SETTINGS ONE PHILOSOPHY crmrcom338 - 17th Avenue SW

c i l a n t ro

747 Lake Bonavista Dr SE113 - 8th Avenue SW 340 - 17th Avenue SW

Sequoia Grove 2012 Cabernet Sauvignon (Napa Valley)Textbook cabernet from Naparsquos heart of Rutherford with deep black fruit mint and cedarhellip and a survivable price tag CSPC +740382 $56

Hartford Court Landrsquos Edge Vineyard Pinot Noir (Sonoma Coast)The ferocity of the Sonoma Coast somehow creates the picture of elegance in this juicy yet delicate pinot CSPC +717210 $60

Domaine de la Cote 2013 Pinot Noir (Sta Rita Hills) Seriously pushes the boundaries picked almost insanely early for low-alcohol herbal pomegranate and rhubarb acidic tension and energy CSPC +761893 $58

Alice May Crosswinds Syrah (Santa Ynez Valley) A syrahviognier Cote Rotie-style co-ferment that matches Cali ripeness with surprising verve and delicacy CSPC +761131 $28

Ridge 2013 Geyserville (Santa Cruz Mountains)This will change your expectations of zinfandel A zin-heavy field blend it combines the best of its mountain altitude and the California sun CSPC +426379 $55

just south of San Jose the wineries of the Santa Cruz Mountains prove again that those seeking to make modern moderate wines in California head both west and up The highest vineyards in Santa Cruz despite being just miles from the ocean are at 2600 feet this significant altitude and the cool Pacific climate results in chiseled wines with controlled ripeness and serious staying power

The region is both expansive and miniscule with only 1500 of its 480000 acres currently planted to grapes and its very-California plantings (cabernet chardonnay pinot noir zinfandel and merlot) all take on an Old World character and rusticity from its rugged terrain and stony mineral-laden soils Despite the challenges associated with growing grapes on a cool rock face Santa Cruz is a state leader in sustainable growing practices

The friendly sunny face of California wine is surely here to stay but Santa Cruz Santa Ynez and the Sonoma Coast are permanent proof that the state is readily capable of more than one expression With its range of climate and terrain California can comfortably both provide continuity and defy stereotype

22

En GardeA Beginnerrsquos Guide To Knives And Their Usesby ANNA BROOKS

Itrsquos difficult to imagine that sharp little number thatrsquos slicing away to the rhythm of your favourite cooking music (or to the beating of child-size fists hungry for dinner) was more often used for combat not chopping carrots

Despite King Louis XIVrsquos decree that the tips of knives be ground down to reduce violence in the mid-1600s kitchen knives still (for quite pointed reasons) make popular murder weapons

But we wonrsquot get into grisly stories of guts and gore here Whether yoursquore a chef extraordinaire or the person whose knife knowledge goes as far as cutting

vegetables with a steak knife there are some things everyone should know about knives

The first major thing we must insist upon is putting down that expensive 14-piece knife set As most knife experts can attest to three main knives can cover almost all the work that a layman cook needs to do in the kitchen

23

Three main knives can cover almost all the work that a layman cook needs

to do in the kitchen

Chefrsquos Knife Your standard knife for mincing and slicing vegetables and meat a chefrsquos knife is typically 20-25 cm long but can range all the way up to 36 cm

Luke Pickett from Knifewear is a sight to see wielding some wickedly sharp

handcrafted Japanese models but despite their carnivorous look Pickett said therersquos really nothing to fear

ldquoThere are a lot of people who are scared of really large knivesrdquo Pickett said ldquoBut having good quality kitchen equipment will make your life easierrdquo

For beginners a standard 20 cm chefrsquos knife (although Pickett said blade length is purely based on personal preference) is best to start with but a Japanese Santoku knife mdash an elegant slightly smaller version of a chefrsquos knife mdash will certainly get the job er meal done

Paring KnifeOn the other side of the knife spectrum is the pocket-sized paring knife (note carrying knives in pockets not recommended)

Regan Johnson assistant manager at The Cookbook Co said besides what the individual using a steak knife to cut everything might think the small intricate work required of a paring knife (such as peeling and trimming) should not be done on a cutting board

ldquoParing is anything you can be doing in the air mdash yoursquore not ever supposed to use a paring knife on a boardrdquo she explained

Johnson added that for someone like herself who does almost as much blade-wielding as a samurai she also recommends a utility knife

which is a hybrid of a chefrsquos knife and a paring knife

ldquoI reach for my utility knife a lotrdquo she said ldquoItrsquos got that shape of a paring knife but is longer Itrsquos just for those things in between that you donrsquot need your giant chefrsquos knife forrdquo

Bread KnifeThe last of the big three is of course a bread knife Have you ever tried to cut a loaf of bread with a straight blade Not so easy (or safe) a task

Itrsquos sometimes difficult to do but no matter the type of knife yoursquore using itrsquos important to try and slice as opposed to chopping or sawing It

is quite tempting (and often seems easier) to saw away at the crispy crust of a floured loaf of sourdough but Knifewearrsquos Pickett said sawing can

be a slippery slope to your bread knifersquos grave

ldquoIf you slice you can use the entire blade and itrsquos a lot sharper along the edgerdquo he explained ldquoItrsquos important to get a good bread knife because you canrsquot sharpen them like you can any other sort of kniferdquo

The Big Three

24

Having good quality kitchen equipment will

make your life easier

Anna Brooks is an award-winning journalist from Calgary Alberta She has worked internationally in Thailand and Africa and has been published in Metro BeatRoute Magazine and the Calgary Journal She also enjoys animal rights fantasy fiction and whiskey sours

Tips and TricksOf course you can adorn your kitchen with the countless others belonging to the knife family mdash cleavers carvers boning knives cheese knives etc mdash but if yoursquore not planning on hacking through solid bone anytime soon you probably donrsquot need to spend $200 on a meat cleaver

But there are some other knife-related implements that are important to have in your kitchen

First off a proper cutting board While plastic cutting boards are versatile and can be chucked in the dishwasher wood is really the best way to go Cutting boards are the quickest way to ruin a knife so steer clear of fancy-looking glass or granite boards mdash they are the antagonists of our story

Itrsquos also not a bad idea to have a knife honer on hand As a reminder (or for

those who had no idea what that random rod in the kitchen was used for) honers are for honing not sharpening

ldquoWith use the metal fibres in a knife edge can get bent to one side or another All yoursquore doing with honing is straightening those fibres back outrdquo Johnson from The Cookbook Co explained ldquoSharpening means yoursquore actually removing material and grinding the metal down to a finer edgerdquo

Johnson added that while you can sharpen at home she always recommends getting your knives sharpened professionally at least once a year depending on how much theyare used

Before you go back to making your lazy-day grilled cheese sandwich or that complex stew yoursquove spent hours on we just want to remind you of whatrsquos called ldquothe pinch griprdquo

Not to sound snobbish but grabbing a knife by the handle and hacking away is poor form Use your thumb and index finger to grasp the blade and then wrap your remaining fingers under the bolster of the knife Shape your other hand into a claw to protect your fingertips from accidentally getting lopped off firmly grasp the object to be cut and slice away

If this knowledge was present in the 17th century perhaps old King Louis XIV would be tipping his crown to more cooks not kitchen knife combatants

25

Times Are A Changing Unexpected Take-Outs

by LINDA GARSON and DIANA NG photography by INGRID KUENZEL

Therersquos no denying that many of our cityrsquos restaurants are feeling the effects of the current economic downturn fewer people working downtown ndash indeed fewer people working altogether and so looking to save money by eating out less means many bricks and mortar restaurants are having to get creative with ways to fully utilise their kitchens and staff

High rents exacerbate the situation so itrsquos time for Calgary restaurateurs to think outside the box and proving to be the innovative entrepreneurs that wersquore known for many are diversifying their offerings to include take-out options both raw and cooked

Catch amp The Oyster Bar launched their ldquoBuy Catchrdquo program where you can pick up fresh Ocean Wise seafood to take home and cook (complete with recipes) along with house-made clam chowder and sauces nearly two years ago There are big savings to be had over dining in with no costs for linen or staff and no expectation to tip

Here are four Calgary eateries also getting clever with take-out

programs that are not widely publicised - and may

open a few eyes

26

Centini Restaurant

Itrsquos not a cookie cutter program but the magic of Centinirsquos take-out is that you can ask the kitchen for ideas of what you should have for dinner People even text the servers for suggestions and to order Loyal customers mostly busy businessmen were asking if they catered but without the staff for such a service Centini started offering to prepare dishes for them to cook themselves

Now you can get your favourite restaurant dishes from rack of lamb with red wine demi-glace AAA Alberta beef tenderloin with Gorgonzola pan sauce and sea bass with ginger cream sauce ready to cook at home ldquoWersquore not going to open a bricks and mortar restaurant down south but our food is going thererdquo says Chevonne Centini Theyrsquore seeing pick-ups such as for people stuck at home with a new baby and even 40 people for a funeral

Boxwood

Itrsquos hard to believe that the quality of food coming from the sister restaurant to River Cafe can be had at home and we are not talking about leftovers When

People take home uncooked homemade pasta with sauce separately and even bread dough and often freeze it to cook later or pick up on a Friday evening so everything is prepared ready for Saturday dinner When buying from a restaurant yoursquore getting top quality perfectly trimmed meat everything is done for you - therersquos no shopping

around and even the parsley is chopped And as everything is custom-made all allergies are catered for too

Centini gets fish delivered once or twice every day and it may come as a surprise but with a chef garde manger that spent 15 years in Japan they have customers coming just to take out sushi

you go home to an empty fridge it feels like the only options you have are fast food or pizza Not so

Boxwoodrsquos fresh and seasonal fare is also available to take home While you wonrsquot

be able to enjoy the quaint atmosphere of the restaurant you can order anything on the menu for take out with its special offering being the whole rotisserie free-range chicken which serves two to four people for $40

Many bricks and mortar restaurants are

having to get creative with ways to fully utilise their

kitchens and staff

You will need to call a few hours ahead (the website states before 200 pm) for enough notice for the chicken but for the rest of the selection like its soups and sandwiches you can simply look up the menu online and call to place an order For a perfect night in may we suggest starting with its bison tartare then moving onto the porchetta and another main before finishing off the meal with a slice of pie

27

Gaucho

For most people the elaborate setup of Brazilian barbecue is one of its biggest attractions You may not know this and while you may not be able to take home the lively decor of Gaucho you can actually take the meal home

The spit packed tightly with freshly roasted meats the sign at the table that signals yoursquore ready for more and the roasted and caramelized pineapple that tops off the meal all contribute to the atmosphere but if all you want are the meats and sides for a hefty dinner you can certainly order the meal as a take-out

Order any of the four options (top sirloin pork loin chicken wings or mild sausage) and add three sides from the list of eight which includes a variety of salads black bean stew and rice And because you canrsquot just have one kind of meat when it comes to Brazilian barbecue you can choose additional

Safari Grill

The marinated thinly sliced BBQ short beef ribs at Safari Grill are already a must-have for those in the know but we suspect even regulars will be surprised to discover that you can pick

up uncooked ribs with your choice of seven marinades to take home and BBQ yourself

With none of the associated costs of dining in $65 buys you enough ribs for 10 people and customers actually drive

meats for $4 each Finally choose the sauce yoursquod like to accompany your meal Orders for over five people will come in a big white box and individual

orders come will in regular take-out containers For big parties do call a few hours ahead All you need to make at home is the caipirinha

from Saskatchewan to take away 10-15 lb bags of these uncooked marinated ribs Some people call and ask for them to be marinated and frozen in 5 lb bags to enjoy later as just 5-7 minutes each side on a high flame has the raw ribs ready to eat

And itrsquos not only ribs that people BBQ at home Mishkaki are skewers of marinated chicken beef and prawns and for as little as $3 each you can have a very inexpensive BBQ feast Marinated raw lamb chops are also available or ask for Samaki - a marinated whole tilapia that comes with a basting sauce to brush on You can even get uncooked samosas to cook in your oven at home

All Safari Grillrsquos regular menu can be ordered for take-out but there is no published price list for uncooked dishes so people call to order and ask - but when yoursquore picking up look out for the new jars of house-made mango and lemon pickles

28

Step By Step Go Nuts With Homemade Nutella And Waffles story and photography by NATALIE FINDLAY

There are many nutritional benefits packed into these small filberts They are rich in dietary fibre packed with folate an excellent source of vitamin E and contain mono-unsaturated fatty acids that

can help lower bad cholesterol and raise good cholesterol By making your own Nutella at home you can control the amount of sugar that is added making this delicious spread basicallyhellip a health food

Hazelnuts have a tried and true following for taking the lead role in the chocolate spread Nutella This long-standing love affair has lasted simply because they add a distinct but subtle flavour to the chocolate Truly a match that is better together than apart

These delicious and super-easy waffles make a great base for your homemade Nutella With the addition of ground hazelnuts to the batter you can deepen the hazelnut flavour and pack in more health benefits

Waffles with raspberries and white chocolate spread

29

Natalie is a freelance writer photographer and pastry chef A graduate of Cordon Bleursquos pastry program she manages her own business too to create custom-made cakes

Using the same waffle recipe from above and switching out the mashed banana and adding frac12 a medium orange ndash juice and zest ndash to the batter you have a delicious orange waffle that will highlight the white chocolate hazelnut spread recipe below

Homemade White Chocolate Hazelnut Spread Makes 1frac12 cups

1frac12 cups (200 g) whole hazelnutsfrac12 cup (70 g) icing sugar2 Tbs (30 mL) canola oil1 tsp (5 mL) vanilla extract1 cup (250g) white chocolate

Follow directions for Homemade Nutella and add the melted white chocolate at the end Pulse to combine

Macerated Raspberries with Orange Serves 6

250 g fresh raspberriesfrac12 medium orange zest and juice1 Tbs icing sugarfrac12 tsp vanilla extract

Add all ingredients into a medium bowl and stir to combine Let sit for about 1 hour

Serve your warm waffles topped with your white chocolate homemade hazelnut spread macerated berries and a dollop of whipped cream or ice cream

Note Homemade Nutella has more texture than store bought and will last around 1 month in the fridge Waffles can be made ahead and frozen Thaw and reheat in the waffle maker or the oven

Banana Fruit compoteMakes enough for 6

3 ripe bananas peeled sliced into rounds2 Tbs (30 g) butter2 Tbs (30 g) brown sugar1frac12 tsp (8 mL) vanilla extract1frac12 tsp (8 mL) bourbon

1 Add butter and sugar to a sauteacute pan over medium heat As they melt stir to combine

2 Add vanilla and bourbon than add sliced bananas and sauteacute until warmed through

Serve your warm waffles topped with your homemade hazelnut spread sauteacuteed bananas and a dollop of whipped cream or ice cream

Homemade Nutella Makes 1frac12 cups

1frac12 cups (200 g) whole hazelnutsfrac34 cup (100g) icing sugar3 Tbs (45 mL) canola oilfrac14 cup (30 g) cocoa powder1 tsp (5 mL) vanilla extract

1 Toast hazelnuts on a baking pan in a preheated 350ordm F oven for 10 - 15 minutes Keep an eye on them to make sure they donrsquot start to burn Remove from oven and let cool to the touch

2 Wrap the nuts in a kitchen towel and rub together to remove the skins This should remove most of the skins

3 Place skinless hazelnuts in a food processor on high Process the nuts until they form a smooth paste and the oils start to separate (about 5 minutes) scraping the bowl often

4 Add the icing sugar cocoa powder vanilla and canola oil to the food processor and process until fully incorporated scraping bowl of processor as needed (about 2 minutes)

Hazelnut Banana WafflesMakes 6

frac12 cup (80 g) all purpose flour1 tsp baking powderfrac12 tsp baking sodaPinch sea salt1 Tbs (15 g) icing sugar1 Tbs (10 g) ground hazelnuts6 grates whole nutmeg1 tsp ground cinnamonfrac12 cup (125 mL) buttermilk1 egg yolk2 Tbs (30 g) butter meltedfrac12 small banana peeled and mashed1 egg white

1 Sift together all dry ingredients (except the ground hazelnuts) in a medium bowl Add the ground hazelnuts and combine

2 Mash the half banana in a small bowl with a fork Add the egg buttermilk and melted butter

3 Whisk the egg white to stiff peaks

4 Whisk the wet ingredients into the dry and fold the egg white into the mixture

5 Follow the directions for your waffle pan to cook waffles for around 5 minutes or until cooked through

Note Remember to bring the waffle pan up to temperature in between each batch of waffles

Hazelnut Banana Waffles with Nutella

30

Citrus Beer Friendsby DAVID NUTTALL

This is when the taste andor aroma of a beer can remind the drinker of anything from an orange drink or lemonade to grapefruit soda There are several ways to achieve this character and these beers are becoming more and more popular every day

Hops provide the bitterness in beer and out of the literally hundreds of varieties a few impart citrus notes into the aroma and flavour Cascade and Citra are examples of two of the most popular hops used in several styles of beer most notably the American IPA or India Pale Ale Cascade hops have been around for over 40 years and it is the single most popular hop used by the American craft brewing industry It provides a floralspicy character often reminiscent of grapefruit

Citrarsquos name leaves no guessing as to its attributes A relative newcomer this cross breed of UK German and US hop varieties has been around for less than a decade but it is already an extremely popular hop for imparting

One of the great things about beer is its diversity It can come in a myriad of colours and also a wide variety of flavours citrus being one of the most distinct

Dave Nuttall has been in the liquor and event business forever He is a qualified beer judge and ownerpresident of Epicurean Calgary at epicureancalgarycom for ten years

citrus and tropical fruit characteristics to a beer

It has proven very versatile and appears in several beer styles from session ales to IPAs It has also become a favourite hop to use for dry-hopping (adding hops late into the boil) due to the exceptional aromas it produces For even more flavour and aroma craft brewers now commonly enhance these already citrusy IPAs with actual zest peel or juice from citrus fruits to create an IPAFruit Beer hybrid which sells especially well in summer months

Then there is the yeast and many varieties of yeast can produce citrusy esters The unfiltered hefeweizens brewed on both sides of the Atlantic quite often have a lemony flavour Sour beers also showcase the yeast often cultured from Belgian strains

These beers are tart and produce a gamut of flavours many with citrus qualities and some have added fruit - the easiest and most obvious way to create a citrusy beer The Belgians also add different kinds of oranges with spice additions to their wheat ales to create wit beers now emulated all over the world with different citrus (and other) fruits involved in the recipe We also canrsquot forget the radlers which are simply a lager beer mixed with 40-60 fruit juice - often grapefruit or lemonade

Whether itrsquos added fruit the yeast the hops or a combination of all of them citrusy beers are commonplace now Thanks to new hops like Citra and the increasing popularity of wits and sours we can expect this trend to continue

Here are a few local beers with hints of citrus All are also available on tap

Beer comes in a myriad of colours and flavours citrus being one of the

most distinct

Ribstone Creek Great White CombineThis tiny Edgerton Alberta brewery has been knocking it out of the park lately Named after the ubiquitous Alberta summer hailstorm the use of Belgian yeast sweet orange peel and coriander give this beer an orange flavour in the beginning When the four different hop additions kick in it changes more to a sweet lemony flavour This White IPA has a very tropical feel that makes you forget it was made in northern Alberta CSPC +774162 $16 6-pack cans

Wild Rose Cowbell Sour ales are the new Belle of the Ball at craft breweries Often using imported Belgian yeast strains they are tart tangy and wellhellip sour Calgaryrsquos Wild Rose has taken this flavour profile and added kaffir lime leaves This makes the beer more like a refreshing limeade and is less bitter than many of its other sour counterparts CSPC +778093 $17 6-pack bottles

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Citradelic Single Hop IPA Big Rock BreweryWith breweries in two (soon to be three) provinces Big Rock now has multiple locations to develop new beers This is the first one from their Vancouver brewery and is full of lemongrapefruit flavours and tropical aromas This beer showcases the Citra hop fooling one to think that citrus has been added when itrsquos all thanks to the hop CSPC +778593 $15 6-pack bottles

Alley Kat Main SqueezeWhat started out as a summer seasonal has now become a mainstay of this Edmonton brewery A North American style wheat ale with a 50 wheat and 50 barley mix it has added grapefruit juice but tastes more along the lines of pink grapefruit rather than its more bitter cousin CSPC +733630 $17 6-pack bottles

32

story by RENEE KOHLMAN

Cheesecake is one of those classic desserts that almost everyone loves unless of course you have a dairy allergy then yoursquoll stay far far away from it While it may seem too complicated to make at home I assure you that itrsquos not

Spice it up cheesecake

Sure there are a few steps involved but the key thing to remember is to have your eggs and cream cheese at room temperature For the best crack-free cheesecake itrsquos best to bake it in a water bath It yields a light creamy texture and is well worth the effort Cheesecake always tastes better the next day so bake it the day before you want to serve it Now that wersquove got the basics down itrsquos time to have a little fun with the crust filling and toppings

The Base

The classic graham cracker crust is fine but every now and again itrsquos great to switch things up Try

ndash Grinding up ginger cookies They work especially well for a pumpkin cheesecake

ndash Chocolate cookie crumbs are fantastic for caramel peanut butter and raspberry cheesecakes

ndash Add finely chopped nuts oats or seeds to the cookie crumbs for added texture and taste

The Middle

Therersquos something to be said for a straight up vanilla or chocolate cheesecake but with some fun add-ins they could take your cheesecake to the next level of deliciousness Try

ndash Swirling tahini dulce de leche salted caramel or chocolate fudge sauce into a creamy vanilla filling

ndash Mix in chopped chocolate peanut butter cups to a chocolate filling

ndash Drop fresh berries (raspberries blueberries blackberries) on top of a vanilla filling

ndash Stir in chopped candied ginger dried cherries or cranberries chopped toasted nuts to the filling

ndash Swap some of the cream cheese with ricotta mascarpone cheese or even strained cottage cheese

ndash You can never go wrong with lemon zest in a vanilla cheesecake

Have a little fun with the crust filling

and toppings

33

Apple Crumble CheesecakeMakes about 12-14 servings Total cook and prep time 3 hours (plus overnight chilling)

I love apple crisp and I love cheesecake This recipe is a fine marriage of both and makes a more than acceptable breakfast The base is a crumble of oats and flour the middle is classic cheesecake and itrsquos topped with cinnamon apples and a buttery oat streusel

Crust 2 cups large flake oats1 cup all purpose flour cup packed brown sugarfrac34 cup butter meltedfrac12 tsp salt

Cheesecake Layer3 - 225 g packages cream cheese at room temperature cup granulated sugar1 tsp (5 mL) vanilla3 large eggs at room temperature cup (80 mL) whipping cream

Apple Layer2 apples peeled cored and sliced about 3-4 mm thick1 tsp ground cinnamonfrac12 tsp salt

Streusel Layer1 cup large flake oatsfrac12 cup all-purpose flourfrac12 cup brown sugarfrac12 cup butter softened1 tsp ground cinnamon

Preheat the oven to 375ordm F

1 Butter the bottom and sides of a 9-inch springform pan with sides that are at least 7 cm high Wrap the bottom of the pan in aluminum foil so it comes at least halfway up the sides

2 Combine the crust ingredients in a large bowl Press the crust evenly into the pan and place on a baking sheet Bake for 10 minutes Remove from oven and let it cool on a wire rack

3 Reduce heat to 325ordm F Put a kettle of water on to boil Have a large roasting pan close by

4 Using a stand mixer with a paddle attachment beat the cream cheese at medium speed for 4 minutes scraping down the sides once or twice until it is soft and creamy With the mixer still running add the sugar and beat for another 4 minutes scraping down the sides of the bowl at least twice Beat in the vanilla Add the eggs one at a time beating for 1 minute after each addition and scraping the bowl Reduce speed to low and add the whipping cream

5 Toss the sliced apples with the cinnamon and salt in a small bowl Combine all of the streusel ingredients in a medium bowl and mix well

6 Place the springform pan in the roasting pan Give the cheesecake batter a good stir and pour it on top of the crust Arrange the apples on top and sprinkle the streusel on top of the apples

7 Place in the oven on the middle rack and pour the hot water into the roasting pan so it comes halfway up the sides of the springform pan

8 Bake the cheesecake for 1frac12 hours Turn off the heat prop open the oven door and let the cheesecake hang inside for another hour

9 Carefully remove from the oven and take out the cheesecake from the hot water bath Remove the foil and let the cheesecake come to room temperature on a wire rack Cover the top lightly and refrigerate for at least 4 hours but overnight is best The next day remove the sides of the pan and serve the cake

Renee is a food writer and pastry chef living in beautiful Saskatoon Saskatchewan Her columns appear in The Saskatoon StarPhoenix and her desserts can be enjoyed at Riverside Country Club Also check out her blog wwwsweetsugarbeancom

The Toppings

Cheesecake with no fun toppings is like a salad with no dressing it just doesnrsquot reach its full flavour potential Try

ndash Salted caramel roasted strawberry sauce or warm chocolate sauce

ndash A rhubarbcardamom compote is divine on top of vanilla cheesecake kissed with a bit of lemon zest Cherry compote is divine with chocolate cheesecake

ndash Have a favourite jam Melt it down with a tiny bit of water and drizzle it on top of your favourite cheesecake

ndash Candied nuts and citrus rind chocolate shavings even crumbled cookies are a fun way to add texture to the cheesecake

ndash Never underestimate the power of fresh seasonal berries and a well-made cheesecakeMacerate them in a little sugar and minced mint or basil and they make a lovely topping Donrsquot forget the whipped cream

34

Think about that for a moment and let that sink in like a cherry in your drink

So how old is ice in bars Well thatrsquos a whole story on its own however the Old Fashioned has been talked about in one form or another since the beginning of the 19th Century The first appearance of this classic cocktail was in the Balance and Columbian Repository newspaper in 1806 as such ldquoA stimulating liquor composed of spirits of any kind sugar water and bittersrdquo

The Old FashionedAn Iconic Drink That Has Stood The Test Of Time

by BRICE PERESSINI

Sohelliphow old is the Old Fashioned The Old Fashioned is as old as ice in bars

When you follow these instructions and put this finely-crafted cocktail into your hand swirl around the ice gaze through the caramel-coloured liquid in the glass and contemplate all that has gone into it you can rest assured you are holding a drink that has delighted taste buds for generations The Old Fashioned however has not always been held in high regard There was a time not too long ago where this fine concoction was an unbalanced fruity watered-down pale imitation of itself More recently

there has been a renaissance involved with this invigorating intoxicant and you can and should expect a proper cocktail when it is ordered at a fine establishment

When this drink is properly prepared it should be in perfect balance (as any proper drink should be) The sweetness of the sugar should not cover the flavour of the bourbon and the bitters should add to not overpower the flavour of the whiskey When the Old Fashioned is well made it is as close to cocktail perfection as a sophisticated patron could expect

Befriend a bespoke barkeep at an upstanding establishment and you will be in trusted hands If you find yourself at home and wanting for a nightcap look no further than the Old Fashioned

Enjoy friends

Old Fashioned Recipe

2 oz Buffalo Trace Bourbon (or your personal favourite)4 dashes Angostura Aromatic Bitters1 raw sugar cube

Muddle the sugar and bitters together with a touch of warm water in a rocks glass Add the bourbon then add ice Stir and garnish with an orange peel and cherry (optional)

Brice is a competition cocktail bartender who plies his trade behind the wood at Chefbar Whisk(e)y is his poison Neat

35

Shoulder Season Wines

by JACLYN ADOMEIT

Wines For Cool Weather

Refreshing white wines match with sunny patios and hot days while bold tannic red wines earn their keep by a fireplace on a winter night Common sense But what about the shoulder season What if yoursquore eating sea bass on a rainy spring day Or sipping wine on a patio during an uncommonly warm April afternoon

Photograph courtesy Tom Firth

36

Wine not only pairs with food but with temperatures and seasons A bright sauvignon blanc can taste flat and acidic on a cold night at no fault of the wine or the drinker Some white wines are other-worldly at the vineyard tasting room in the summer but fall flat when you pull them out for dinner guests in the winter

The change in taste is likely due to a number of factors Anatomically it is your sinus cavities creating the change Higher atmospheric pressures allow your nose to pick out subtle aromas while lower pressures bring out a winersquos acidity and harsh tannins CO2 degasses from liquid at low pressure leaving wines dull and flat too

Serving temperature can greatly affect a winersquos aromatics white wines chilled to near-freezing have dull aromas (Tip allow the bottle a half hour on the counter before popping the cork This will allow the aromatics to warm up enhancing the flavour)

Lastly your own palate will be partial to different flavours depending on sun snow wind and sleet but as a rule of thumb higher alcohol white wines (approximately 13 percent or more) will warm the soul and pair best with cooler weather

Here are some wine selections to go for when it is not too hot and not too cold so you can choose a pairing thatrsquos just right

Fiano

Yoursquoll notice that many of the best white wines for cold weather are grown in hot places Hot climates mean a longer growing season more sugar which leads to higher alcohol and often more robust and tropical flavours All of this is true for fiano - seldom grown outside of Campania in southern Italy Fiano produces age-worthy wines which are rich nutty and delicious

Feudi Di San Gregorio 2014 Campania Fiano di Avellino Italy A beautiful floral bouquet with candied lemon followed by honey-coated hazelnuts on the palate Worth cellaring for a few seasons The perfect dance partner for poultry CSPC +708589 $33

Viognier

Viognier is a white varietal that is best consumed at slightly higher temperatures A chilly glass of viognier will leave you with acid maybe oak and not much else Allow it to warm and you may experience peach pear and toasted almond

Traditionally grown in the warm south of France viognier is often a higher alcohol white wine with rich tropical flavours The heat of the alcohol with tropical flavours and lower acid makes viognier the perfect wine to sip while watching a late spring snowfall

Paul Mas 2014 Languedoc-Roussillon Viognier France Brimming with apricot almond lemon and ripe peach Contains hints of warming oak Pair with something savoury baked brie or spinach-filled puff pastry CSPC + 740978 $17

Dry Roseacute

There is so much more to be had from roseacute than white zinfandel And no itrsquos not just a mix of red and white wine The best roseacute is made from red skinned grapes that only sit on their skins for up to a day and a half to borrow colour and flavour then are fermented and processed

Refined examples of roseacute wines are often dry and have deep aromas of red fruits mild tannins and are savoury instead of sweet The French and Spanish craft great examples of dry roseacutes that are either a single varietal or a blend of grapes such as mourvegravedre grenache syrah or tempranillo

Muga Roseacute 2014 Rioja Grenache Viura and Tempranillo Spain A tamed Rioja Orange blossom woven together with strawberry and a palate of cherry and savoury soft cheese Ideal for charcuterie CSPC + 710261 $16

Orange Wine

Never heard of orange wine A commercial demand for natural wines has fostered a resurgence in ancient wine making practices While roseacute wines are reds that have been produced using white wine making practices orange wines are created from white grapes submitted to maceration and allowed to sit on the skins before fermentation the same practice employed in red winemaking

Unlike any white you have tasted orange wines are full-bodied have mild tannins and deep flavours - the characteristics that allow red wines to bring warmth to cool nights A must try for any wine buff

Allow the bottle a half hour on the counter

before popping the cork

The Bicicleta wines are characterized by their fruity expression and for offering more than

the traditional strains a clear example of this range`s innovation style and creativity

Cono Sur Vineyards amp Winery ConoSurVineyards ConoSurWinesconosurcom

The brewhouse at Wild Rose

Jaclynrsquos first passion was winemaking Shersquos worked in vineyards cellars and restaurants Currently she is a writer who daylights as an environmental engineer She believes that a good life like a good wine is not complete without balance

Nichol 2013 Naramata Pinot Gris Canada A Canadian example of orange wine with backbone Flavours of caramel apple roast nuts orange rind and peach CSPC +504159 $31

Oaked chardonnay

In and out with popular palates oak and chardonnay have been partners for a long time Oak paired with chardonnay can bring out butter richness toasted vanilla tree fruit and in the best examples shimmering minerality That is because oak aging is often accompanied by a malolactic fermentation process that smooths out rigid acids into lactic acid - the acid found in milk

Chardonnay is a grape of many talents and encounters a great diversity of production styles It is oaked examples that pair best with pensive rainy days They are full-bodied warming and complex

Wente Morning Fog 2014 Livermore Valley (California) Chardonnay USA Half oak-aged and malolactic-fermented half crisp and fresh this chardonnay brings together green apple vanilla and toasted oak A friend to cream sauce and roast chicken CSPC +175430 $18

In a province of mutable weather let your wine choices be as varied as the ever changing winds Cheers and herersquos to refined full-bodied cool-weather wines

38

Once yoursquore done with your magazine cover shoot like we did this month or prepping for dinner and have all of those odds and ends just sitting on the cutting board - you know carrot ends onion skins tips of celery stalks you get the point - donrsquot toss lsquoem

Instead place them into a large ziploc bag and straight into the freezer After a couple of weeks yoursquoll likely have four full freezer bags of vegetable bits ready to be turned into broth and herersquos how you do it

Making a big batch of vegetable broth doesnrsquot always mean a trip to the grocery store All you need to do is save those scraps This is a handy trick I learned years ago courtesy of Bon Appetit

No-Waste Vegetable Broth

by DAN CLAPSON

Odds And Ends BrothYields 8 cups (2 L)

12 cups (3 L) water4 full ziploc bags of vegetable trimmings1 yellow onion quartered4 cloves garlicAromatics of choice (I usually toss a couple of rosemary and thyme sprigs in there)To taste Salt and pepper

1 Place all ingredients in a large pot and bring to a boil on medium-high heat

2 Reduce to medium heat and let simmer uncovered for 1frac12 hours

3 Strain season to taste with salt and pepper and use as desired

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40

Salentein 2012 Reserve Chardonnay Uco Valley Argentina

Very very enjoyable chardonnay blowing me away with complexity varietal character and fine balance between oak lees and fruit Toffee baked apple tangerine and a little almond on the nose lead into silkily textured wine in the mouth Top shelf chardonnay that might be great with lobster tails mussels or poultry Around $20 CSPC +779479

Rutini 2013 Cabernet Malbec Mendoza Argentina

An exceptionally well put together blend - if you want rich berry fruits lots of body but maybe not tons of varietal characters from the individual components Lifted and bright fruits make for a very enjoyable glass Simply perfect for your next barbecue a roast or just chilling out with friends and family $26-30 CSPC +776822

Vinecol 2014 Organic Malbec Mendoza Argentina Fair Trade organic and vegan along with a good price is it still good Piles of fresh fruits (think smashed raspberries) with plenty of spice and soft herb-leaf aromas There are plenty of malbec flavours on the palate too Good for any day of the week with just a little tension between fruit tannin and acid it might be best with pub style burgers pulled pork or sausages About $16 CSPC +755296

Argentina is so much more than malbec While such a noble grape has found its best home in the high altitude vineyards of Argentina there is a lot going on with other grapes as well

Making The Case For Argentina

by TOM FIRTH

This massive country nestled up against the Andes mountains has a range of growing conditions suited to a number of grapes From Salta in the north to Patagonia in the south plenty of interesting wines are available here - many reasonably priced and of excellent quality So yes there are some

malbecs on these pages but please do try some of the other grapes and blends coming from Argentina too

Be sure to crack open a bottle of malbec on ldquoWorld Malbec Dayrdquo April 17 - who knows it might be nice enough to barbecue too

Photograph courtesy Tom Firth

41

Manos Negras 2011 Stone Soil Select Mendoza Argentina Quite new to the market this is a pretty enjoyable version of Argentinarsquos flagship grape Loads of blue fruit and raspberries with spices galore and a little compost Rich flavours lead to a lengthy spicy finish Yes please Bring to a barbecue if you can $21 CSPC +630541

Zuccardi 2012 Zeta Mendoza Argentina

A malbec-cabernet sauvignon blend that is also a blend of two different Mendoza appellations La Consulta and Gualtallary Deep and abundant fruit aromas with liquorice root and a touch of blueberry preserves Excellent balance of flavours on the palate too with the right structure and tannin for aging if desired Enjoy with a prime rib or even meaty pasta dishes or game $50-52 CSPC +740270

Zuccardi 2012 ldquoEmmardquo Bonarda Mendoza Argentina

In my humble opinion one of the finest bonardas coming out of Argentina Notes of coffee bean and espresso complement cherry and blackberry fruits with healthy balanced tannins to stand up to the tart fruits Delicious for sure enjoy at your next barbecue $40 CSPC +758407

Luigi Bosca 2011 Cabernet-Malbec Mendoza Argentina

A wonderfully earthy and savoury blend with plenty of tobacco spice leather and yes lots of fruit too The earthy flavours work well with the big dark chocolate flavours and weighty tannins Drink now or through 2020 or so - with a steak naturally $22-24 CSPC +766010

Trivento 2013 Golden Reserve Malbec Lujan de Cuyo Argentina While there is a trend to see a lot of premium malbecs move away from oak presence this one is a bold smooth and delicious example that is seeing about a year of oak All those berry fruits plums and herb notes malbec is known for along with the smoothness that only oak brings Kick back relax maybe cook up some steaks - enjoy About $24 CSPC +711402

Trivento 2014 Malbec Reserve Mendoza Argentina Nearly unbeatable for good malbec at a great price itrsquos rich and chocolatey on the nose with big fruits and oak tones too Mild garrigue notes or dried herb flavours with plenty of fruit and tannins - still showing a fine sense of balance Enjoy with beef $14 CSPC +730714

Luigi Bosca 2011 De Sangre Mendoza Argentina A blend of cabernet sauvignon merlot and syrah that manages to pull out the best of each varietal Earthy and slightly smoky with good fruits and plenty of versatility Tannins are well-placed against the fruits with a long smooth finish Irsquove been a fan of this wine year after year Good to keep a couple on hand in the cellar About $29 CSPC +745106

Salentein 2012 Numina Gran Corte Uco Valley Argentina A malbec-dominated Bordeaux blend this stunner is all about ripe fruits cedar pepper cherries and plum with a little tealeaf and the right amount of tannins Very very well balanced and like any great wine think about some food to go with it Beef tenderloin slow cooked meats or maybe at your next asadohellip About $40 CSPC +764706

Colonia Las Liebres 2013 Bonarda Mendoza Argentina Bear with me here - a fine bonarda with plenty of earthy smoky aromas leading to rubber charred cherries and cocoa Some pretty prominent tannins to be found as well but wow does it all come together A wine that just begs for duck with cranberries or maybe some kebabshellip$20 CSPC +773381

42

Open That Bottleby LINDA GARSON photography by INGRID KUENZEL

ldquoIf you work in a place and yoursquore miserable I donrsquot know if there is a dollar amount that can be attached to that The work that yoursquore doing has to be rewarding and challengingrdquo says Karen KhoGrowing up in Niagara Falls in a Philippino SpanishChinese family Kho was surrounded by food and drinks with an open door policy that has had a huge influence on the person she is today - an

entertainer who likes to make people feel welcome ldquoMy parents wanted me to be a lawyer there was definitely an encouragement to use my voice for goodrdquo she explains ldquoAnd I still think I help people but in a different way a very social wayrdquo

Graduating Western University with a political science degree in 2000 Kho spent a year travelling and living in Australia before taking a leap of faith and moving to Calgary Here she studied wine with the International Sommeliers Guild and WSET but says her real education was a job she adored working in the wine trade at BIN 905 in tandem with running wine programs for CRMR restaurants It was only when the opportunity came to create the wine program at Vin Room six years later that Kho leapt at the challenge of a new idea for the city and spent four happy years there

Eventually she and her partner decided to stretch their wings and went to Vancouver where Kho embarked on a six-month culinary course at the Pacific Institute of Culinary Arts ticking off another box on her bucket list ldquoI wanted a greater understanding of technique in the kitchen and I wanted an understanding of what service on a very basic level would look like if I ever owned my own place and ever had to be the person who filled inrdquo she says ldquoI feel if I was ever in a place that needed someone to chop onions Irsquom your womanrdquo she laughs

A year later the pair came back with the idea of eventually opening their own business in Calgary ldquoThe support we get from this community is heartfelt and this is a city of opportunity People with the right concept are seeing a lot of great success itrsquos still our game planrdquo she says Meanwhile Kho applied only to Teatro where she is now Group Service Director

ldquoI wanted to work at a place that had a challenging wine program and had a level of service with high expectations and where professional service teams

applyrdquo she says ldquoItrsquos pretty romantic to work for a company that has been built on a foundation of service Successful businesses in the restaurant industry get the grand picture which is the moments that yoursquore creating for people and I like to be a part of thatrdquo she adds

So what bottle is Kho saving for a special occasion

Paying homage to her time at BIN 905 Kho explains ldquoI have a bottle of 1996 Chateau Mouton Rothschild which was given to me with some very kind words on my last day at BIN Irsquove always just appreciated my time there it was where I learned the vernacular of wine and itrsquos my first job where I really saw the benefits of serving people with intentionrdquo She continues ldquoI always see it thankfully as the stepping-stone to a broader wine profession and eventually to the position that I have now It was given to me by very close friends that Irsquom still friends with to this dayrdquo

And when is she planning to open the wine

ldquoWhen (partner) Dave and I open our own restaurantrdquo Kho says This isnrsquot something that something that will happen tomorrow but fortunately the wine will last until theyrsquore ready

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See this weekrsquos promotion

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1316-9th Avenue SE bull (403) 514-0577 bull knifewearYYC bull knifewearcom

Culinaire April 2016indd 2 2016-03-04 501 PM

䈀甀礀 琀栀攀 琀漀瀀 栀愀氀昀 漀昀 愀渀礀 戀漀琀琀氀攀 漀昀 眀椀渀攀 戀攀琀眀攀攀渀 瀀洀ⴀ㘀瀀洀 愀渀搀 最攀琀 琀栀攀 戀漀琀琀漀洀 琀栀攀 昀甀渀 栀愀氀昀⤀ 昀漀爀 䘀刀䔀䔀

䘀刀

䔀䔀

䴀伀一䐀䄀夀 ⴀ 䘀刀䤀䐀䄀夀 瀀洀 ⴀ㘀瀀洀

瀀爀椀挀攀 戀漀琀琀氀攀猀 漀昀 眀椀渀攀㔀 戀漀琀琀氀攀猀 漀昀 戀攀攀爀㔀 栀椀最栀戀愀氀氀猀

䠀䄀䰀䘀 䘀刀䔀䔀 圀䤀一䔀

㔀 㔀 Ⰰ 㠀 䄀 瘀 攀 匀 圀 Ⰰ 䌀 愀 氀 最 愀 爀 礀 Ⰰ 䄀 䈀 吀 倀 䜀

Pacific Albacore Tuna CrudoServes 4

335 g Pacific albacore tuna 1 honey crisp or granny smith apple 4 cloves of garlic thinly sliced frac12 tsp ground espelette chili frac14 cup (60 mL) sunflower oil frac14 cup (60 mL) flax oil 1 Tbs lightly toasted flax seed 8 pickled string beans (keep some pickling liquid)4 slices of prosciutto 1 Tbs (1 mL) rice vinegar Pea shoots Good quality finishing salt like fleur de sel

1 Slice garlic as thinly as possible and combine with sunflower oil in a small saucepan Heat slowly and allow the garlic to fry until golden brown Remove from heat and add the ground espelette chili

2 Allow the oil to steep for 15-20 minutes at room temperature Once cool add flax oil

Chef Matthias Fong

3 Slice 8 pickled string beans thinly into rounds

4 Dice the apple into 1 cm cubes and add a splash of the pickled string bean liquid as well as rice vinegar add to the sliced string beans

5 Set up 4 plates Slice the tuna into frac34 cm thick slices and lay out 85 g per plate Using the finishing salt season the tuna to taste

6 Pull the prosciutto slices apart into bite-sized pieces and scatter them with the tuna slices

7 Drizzle 1 Tbs (15 mL) flax oil over each plate with a few slices of the fried garlic from the oil on each plate

8 Scatter the apple and string bean mixture over the slices of tuna being sure to spoon some of the pickling liquid from the bowl over the tuna slices Finish with pea shoot tips and toasted flax seed

Chef Matthias FongRiver Cafeacute

A good quality knife is made from high quality steel usually German or Japanese which will stay sharp for a long period of time and has the potential to last a lifetime

Owning a stainless steel knife versus one made from high carbon steel is also extremely beneficial in any kitchen Itrsquos easy for a knife to end up in the sink which can leave non-stainless varieties rusted and ruined

ldquoRegardless of style or brand itrsquos never safe to let knives go dull Dull knives lead to excessive force and can easily slip off the product yoursquore cuttingrdquo cautions Fong

ldquoTo properly care for a knife I recommend investing in some sharpening stone andor a ceramic honing rod which prolongs the life of your knife and requires less sharpening I also suggest signing up for a class to learn the art of sharpening or just take your knives directly to the folks at Knifewear and theyrsquoll gladly maintain for yourdquo

ldquoMy go-to knife is the Tojiro Flash 825-inch slicer Itrsquos short in length making it versatile for a variety of uses I use it for the majority of my prep work but itrsquos ideal for slicing and carving The narrow blade allows for paper thin slicing on delicate fish like tunardquo says Fong

ldquoI favour the Tojiro line of knives because they offer stainless Japanese steel thatrsquos easy to sharpen and repairrdquo

14

Chef Kai SalimaumlkiThe Block

Chef Salimaumlki is all about a great multipurpose knife ldquoI love the Masakage Kumo Petty 150 mm knife Itrsquos ideal for numerous tasks in the kitchen but I especially love it for chopping fine herbs Itrsquos lightweight and has a remarkably sharp edge that has chives bouncing from under it in perfect uniform circlesrdquo he explains

The Petty knife is ideal for smaller jobs such as slicing shallots cutting herbs and boning smaller proteins And because of its size itrsquos also a great alternative for those who feel uncomfortable wielding a larger heavier chefrsquos knife

ldquoI would recommend this knife for the home cook as it can replace many utility knives people seem to collect in drawers And of course most importantly I recommend proper love attention and care to ensure you keep this tool functioning for a very long timerdquo

You simply canrsquot do your best without your equipment at its best

Chef Jorel ZielkeBrasserie Kensington and Winebar

ldquoIrsquom a huge fan of my 10frac34-inch MAC chefrsquos knife This multipurpose knife is modeled after the standard French chefrsquos kniferdquo says Zielke

Sirloin Beef TartareServes 2

335 g AAA beef sirloin2 Tbs (30 mL) grainy mustard cup minced shallots Tbs minced gherkins2 Tbs cup finely chopped parsley Worcestershire sauce to tasteHot sauce to tasteCold pressed canola oil to taste 1 egg yolk in tact with all whites removedPinch of fresh grated horseradishSalt and pepper

1 Finely dice the sirloin removing any connective tissue or silver-skin Do not trim off the fat Pass over the meat several times with your knife

2 Mix in mustard shallots gherkins parsley Worcestershire hot sauce oil and salt and pepper

3 Note All garnish measurements are suggestions as tartares vary to personal taste Add enough oil to moisten dish but be careful not to oversaturate

4 Top tartare with raw egg yolk and freshly grated horseradish

5 Serve with anything you can pick it up with such as crostini crackers fresh bread fresh heirloom tomato or crisp lettuce

ldquoI canrsquot emphasize enough the importance of respecting your tools by keeping them clean and properly functioning to avoid safety issues You simply canrsquot do your best without your equipment at its bestrdquo

ldquoA sharp knife is key when dicing raw meat like in my recipe belowrdquo he continues ldquoKeep in mind that itrsquos not firm like an onion or a stick of celery Meat shifts and moves as you prepare it so itrsquos important to slow down and take your time when preparing a dish like tartarerdquo

Chef Jorel Zielke

Chef Kai Salimaumlki

15

Robyn is a public relations professional and occasional writer with a passion for food and beverages Despite city hopping from her home in Calgary to Anchorage AK you can still find her on Twitter robynalana

Braised Brisket with Carrot Puree and Napa Cabbage Serves 4

900 ndash 1125 g brisket5 carrots peeled and sliced 12-16 baby potatoes 1 head of Napa cabbage julienned5 parsnips peeled and sliced 2 tomatoes quartered2 yellow onions quartered1 yellow onion thinly sliced6 sprigs of thyme4 sprigs of rosemary 6 whole cloves of garlic3-4 Tbs butter1 Tbs black peppercornsCanola oil4 cups (1 L) beef stock or water1 cup (240 mL) of milkHoney to tasteSalt and pepper 1 Season brisket liberally with salt and pepper (you can braise whole or cut it into smaller chunks)

2 In a large sauteacute pan heat canola oil until it has reached its smoking point Sear the meat on all sides until golden brown and caramelized

3 Remove from pan and place in a large ovenproof baking dish covering with beef stock (or water) Add peppercorns two sprigs of rosemary 4 sprigs of thyme whole garlic tomatoes and the quartered onions

4 Cover with tin foil and braise for approximately for 3-3frac12 hours at 325ordm F or until fork tender

5 Remove from the braising juices spoon off any excess fat and strain juices into a saucepot reduce on a medium heat until a nice thick sauce has formed

6 For carrot puree add two tablespoons of butter in a heavy bottomed saucepan and sauteacute sliced onion and diced carrots together over medium heat Yoursquore not looking to brown the vegetables but rather simmer in the butter

7 After 10 minutes cover the mixture with milk add 2 sprigs of thyme and season with salt Simmer until soft and tender

8 Strain the carrots and reserve the milk throw out the thyme sprigs Place the carrots and onions in a blender and slowly add the milk until a nice puree is achieved check seasoning and thickness and adjust if necessary Set aside 9 Sauteacute julienned cabbage in a tablespoon of butter season with salt and add 2 tablespoons of water Reduce heat and cook for 5 minutes stirring frequently

ldquoI recommend proper love attention and care to ensure you keep this tool functioning for a

very long timerdquo

10 Toss sliced carrots and parsnips with honey chopped rosemary and thyme season with salt and pepper and roast in the oven for an hour at 325ordm F or until tender 11 Boil the baby potatoes in heavily salted water until fork tender

12 To serve set up 4 plates and spoon carrot puree on the bottom of the plate in a circle Arrange potatoes carrots and parsnips around the plate place Napa cabbage in the middle and place brisket on top Spoon the reduced braising liquid over the meat

16

As Nemeth chats with customers other vendors and friends who stop by her enthusiastic greetings and joyous laughter are hard to ignore mdash this is a woman who clearly likes people In fact she loves them Warm hearty and full of surprises the words used to describe Nemethrsquos personality can just as easily be used to describe her soup

The Primal Soup Co is a fairly new entity mdash the frozen containers of soup with flavours like Mango Butternut Squash Spinach Artichoke and Feta and Thai Coconut Chicken first showed up at the Market on MacLeod (then the

Going To MarketPrimal Soup Company Finds Its Homeby ELIZABETH CHORNEY-BOOTH photography by INGRID KUENZEL

If you happen to spy Margaret Nemeth at one of her Primal Soup Company booths at the Crossroads Market or the Market on MacLeod yoursquoll immediately see that the energetic atmosphere of a Farmersrsquo Market suits her

Kingsland Farmersrsquo Market) in 2011 mdash but Nemeth is not new to the food and beverage game

Long-time Calgarians may recognize the Primal name and the taste of Nemethrsquos homemade soups from the now defunct Primal Grounds Cappuccino Bar and Eatery in Killarney which Nemeth owned and ran from 1996 through to 2010

Nemeth opened that business after a career in oil and gas and the stand-alone cafeacute was a solid success for her Not only did it serve up great coffee Nemeth quickly made a name for herself with her homemade soup creations All homemade and gluten-free (due to Nemethrsquos own dietary restrictions) Primal Grounds was catering to people with gluten intolerances long before it became fashionable

ldquoWe were pioneers and it was so much funrdquo Nemeth says ldquoThere were lots of ups and downs but it was a good liferdquo

ldquoWhen yoursquore in a market you have to give people reasons to stoprdquo

Margaret Nemeth

17

Nemeth sold the cafeacute when a real estate developer made her an offer she couldnrsquot refuse but she still felt the urge to be around people and feed them So she set up shop in the markets - first the Market on MacLeod and then in January of 2015 she opened a stall in the rebranded Crossroads Market

Elizabeth Chorney-Booth is a Calgary-based writer and co-founderco-editor of RollingSpooncom and Wapawekkacom She enjoys exploring the connection between music and food through interviews with musicians and chefs

Primal Soup also sells lunch items like gourmet macaroni and cheese sandwiches and homemade pies and pastries so that market wanderers can stop by the stall and grab a full lunch while perusing the soup cooler for something to take home for a future meal

ldquoWhen yoursquore in a market you have to give people reasons to stoprdquo Nemeth says ldquoSo we offer things to go with the soup which also gives them ideas for what they can do at home Or sometimes theyrsquoll come for a sandwich and then theyrsquoll look at the soups You have to give people reasons to be in this spacerdquo

ldquoWe were pioneers and it was so much funrdquo

Whatever Nemeth is doing it seems to be working Between the two farmersrsquo markets and specialty retailers like the Market on 17th Sunnyside Market and SPUD delivery boxes Primal Soup Co sells over 1000 containers of soup every week Nemeth develops the recipes herself but has hired a full-time chef to keep up with the demand Personality and strategic stall locations in busy farmersrsquo markets alone isnrsquot enough to move that kind of volume of soup mdash while Nemeth has made smart business decisions over the course of Primalrsquos various incarnations the key to her success really lies in the product itself Everything is made from scratch without the aid of pre-bought soup bases and Nemeth uses seasonal ingredients (only 20 to 30 of her 50 soup varieties are ever available at any given time) supporting her neighbours at the markets when possible Her meat stocks are built from organic chicken bones Wintersrsquo turkey carcasses and duck bones from fellow market vendor Green Eggs and Ham to build a rich and delicious broth ldquoI layer my soupsrdquo Nemeth says ldquoI donrsquot just throw everything in the pot together And there has to be a twist in every one There has to be something

that you donrsquot expect mdash a surprise in every boxrdquo

To bring things full circle Nemeth has a new venture that just opened kitty corner to her Primal Soup stall in the Crossroads Market a beautiful and shiny new Primal Grounds coffee location With a long counter for people to sit at for as long as they like (Nemeth jokes that itrsquos the perfect place for bored spouses to sit while their partners shop the market) itrsquos an updated nod to what got Primal Soup started in the first place

And itrsquos also a testament to Nemethrsquos dedication to market life mdash the lack of control she has over her own hours and some other aspects arenrsquot perfect but the busyness the proximity to like-minded vendors and most of all the people she gets to interact with on a constant basis has put Nemeth exactly where she belongs ldquoYoursquore only as strong as the market is collectivelyrdquo she says ldquoItrsquos different than being a restaurant but I have to say itrsquos the funnest thing Irsquove ever donerdquo

ldquoThere has to be something that you donrsquot

expect mdash a surprise in every boxrdquo

18

Soup Kitchenstory and photography by DAN CLAPSON

The fresh hang-up-your-winter-jacket feeling is finally in the air ndash and that my friends is a wonderful thing Gone are the days where wersquove looked forward to spooning into a big bowl of creamy soup or sitting down to some chicken noodle soup to help shake off the winter sniffles These days Irsquom more concerned with light and bright flavours and less calorie-ridden meals

so I wonrsquot look completely undesirable in a swimsuit come June

Here are two great recipes that just happen to be vegan but are bursting with flavour

Serves 5 Total cook time 35 minutes

6 cups (15 L) vegetable broth1 cup (240 mL) white wine1 cup (240 mL) water2 Tbs (30 mL) tomato paste2 cups dry green lentils1 red onion halved and thinly sliced1 small fennel bulb halved and thinly sliced2 tsp (10 mL) maple syrup1 tsp dried oreganofrac12 tsp ground turmericfrac12 tsp chili flakesfrac12 tsp ground cinnamon1 pinch nutmeg2 cups thinly sliced red Swiss chardTo taste salt and pepper

1 Place broth wine water and tomato paste in a large pot and bring to a simmer on medium-high heat Add lentils and cook for 15 minutes

2 Add onion fennel maple syrup and spices and continue to cook for 15 minutes

Spiced Green Lentil and Chard Soup

3 Add Swiss chard and cook until leaves are tender about 2-3 minutes Season to taste with salt and pepper and serve

Dan Clapson is a freelance food writer and columnist in Calgary When hersquos not writing about Canadarsquos amazing culinary scene he is likely listening to 80s rock or 90s boy bands Follow him on twitter dansgoodside

Spinach and Cashew Soup with Poblano and Scallion Salsa

Serves 4 Total cook time 30 minutes not including cashew soak time

Soup1frac12 cups roasted cashews2 cups (500 mL) water4 cups (1 L) vegetable broth4 cups cooked spinach1 Tbs (15 mL) apple cider vinegar1 Tbs (15 mL) maple syrupfrac12 tsp cayenne peppersalt and pepper to tastecashew butter for garnish optional

1 Place cashews and water in a container cover and let sit on counter overnight

2 Combine cashews water and remaining soup ingredients in a blender and pureacutee until very smooth

3 Pour contents of blender through a fine mesh strainer into a medium pot Bring to a simmer on medium-high heat and cook for 15 minutes Season to taste with salt and pepper and keep warm on stove until ready to serve

4 Place a couple of spoonfuls of the salsa into each bowl and ladle soup around it Add a couple of dollops of cashew butter for a little extra richness

Salsa1 large poblano pepper halved and seeds removed1 bunch scallions2 Tbs (30 mL) canola oil2 Tbs fresh mint roughly chopped1 tsp (5 mL) lemon juicefrac12 tsp cane sugarfrac12 tsp chili flakessalt and pepper to taste

1 Preheat oven to 400ordm F

2 Place poblano halves and scallions on a baking sheet drizzle with oil and roast until slightly charred about 15-18 minutes

3 Remove from oven allow to cool slightly then give them a rough chop

4 Add to a bowl with remaining ingredients and toss to combine Season liberally with salt and pepper

20

Photograph courtesy California Wine Institute

Ever since Napa Valley cabernet sauvignons and chardonnays bested their more historic counterparts from Bordeaux and Burgundy in the now-famous Judgment of Paris tasting in 1976 California and its flagship region have carried the torch for the bold dense fruity lushly oaked wines that brought them worldwide fame

Forty years later this sun-drenched style of wines remains both unapologetically enjoyable and wildly popular and Napa is on the bucket list of any devoted wine tourist But as tastes and trends start to evolve away from a focus on power and concentration towards greater elegance and food-friendliness winemakers in California are again taking to the frontier gravitating towards the statersquos physical and climatic extremes to explore new boundaries of flavour and complexity Californiarsquos cooler corners

California Coolby PETER VETSCH

California is a land of frontiers dangling on the edge of the Pacific home of the Gold Rush and epicentre of the New Worldrsquos insurgence onto the global wine scene

are fast becoming its second face in the world of wine

Sonoma County north of San Francisco and just west of Napa is probably Californiarsquos second best-known region almost equally recognized for its cabernets chardonnays and zinfandels The largest subregion in the county taking up almost a third of its total area is the western Sonoma Coast too expansive at 500000 acres to have a distinct identity

However the western border of this appellation a razorrsquos edge straddling the ocean locally known as the ldquotruerdquo Sonoma Coast showcases the regionrsquos true character - extreme viticulture wet cool and always windy at elevations up to 2000 feet balanced on the San Andreas Fault with many vines growing above the fog line and constantly exposed to the throes of the Pacific Pinot noir takes on a unique expression here on low-yielding vines in the cool above the rest of Sonoma offering both remarkable purity of fruit and astonishing acidity and structure

Pinot is also predominant in the relatively new Santa Rita Hills subregion of the Santa Ynez Valley located an hour and a half northwest of Los Angeles and similarly perched right alongside the ocean The maritime influence dominates the microclimate and counteracts the California sun with fog and cool breezes to the point where this coastal spot becomes a near ideal substitute for chilly Burgundy Here the core Burgundian varietals of pinot noir and chardonnay thrive in a particularly striking edgy way

Santa Ynez is the only wine region in the western hemisphere where the arearsquos defining mountain range runs east-west instead of north-south creating a sort of maritime wind tunnel that sucks cold Pacific air eastward This leads to some of the largest diurnal (day to night) temperature shifts in North America and allows inland grapes ripening in the scorching daytime heat to recharge and maintain acidity at night This special geological feature allows a wide range of reds in Santa Ynez to be juicy but still structured bold yet balanced from cabernet and merlot to syrah and grenache

Halfway between the Sonoma Coast to the north and the Santa Rita Hills to the south along yet another coastline

California can comfortably both provide continuity

and defy stereotype

Wine Picks

Peter is a local lawyer by day and wine writer by night maintaining his own wine blog at popandpourca He is always on the lookout for the next way to experience wine and the next good bottle to try

A LITTLE SIBLING RIVALRY NEVER HURT ANYBODY

FOUR SETTINGS ONE PHILOSOPHY crmrcom338 - 17th Avenue SW

c i l a n t ro

747 Lake Bonavista Dr SE113 - 8th Avenue SW 340 - 17th Avenue SW

Sequoia Grove 2012 Cabernet Sauvignon (Napa Valley)Textbook cabernet from Naparsquos heart of Rutherford with deep black fruit mint and cedarhellip and a survivable price tag CSPC +740382 $56

Hartford Court Landrsquos Edge Vineyard Pinot Noir (Sonoma Coast)The ferocity of the Sonoma Coast somehow creates the picture of elegance in this juicy yet delicate pinot CSPC +717210 $60

Domaine de la Cote 2013 Pinot Noir (Sta Rita Hills) Seriously pushes the boundaries picked almost insanely early for low-alcohol herbal pomegranate and rhubarb acidic tension and energy CSPC +761893 $58

Alice May Crosswinds Syrah (Santa Ynez Valley) A syrahviognier Cote Rotie-style co-ferment that matches Cali ripeness with surprising verve and delicacy CSPC +761131 $28

Ridge 2013 Geyserville (Santa Cruz Mountains)This will change your expectations of zinfandel A zin-heavy field blend it combines the best of its mountain altitude and the California sun CSPC +426379 $55

just south of San Jose the wineries of the Santa Cruz Mountains prove again that those seeking to make modern moderate wines in California head both west and up The highest vineyards in Santa Cruz despite being just miles from the ocean are at 2600 feet this significant altitude and the cool Pacific climate results in chiseled wines with controlled ripeness and serious staying power

The region is both expansive and miniscule with only 1500 of its 480000 acres currently planted to grapes and its very-California plantings (cabernet chardonnay pinot noir zinfandel and merlot) all take on an Old World character and rusticity from its rugged terrain and stony mineral-laden soils Despite the challenges associated with growing grapes on a cool rock face Santa Cruz is a state leader in sustainable growing practices

The friendly sunny face of California wine is surely here to stay but Santa Cruz Santa Ynez and the Sonoma Coast are permanent proof that the state is readily capable of more than one expression With its range of climate and terrain California can comfortably both provide continuity and defy stereotype

22

En GardeA Beginnerrsquos Guide To Knives And Their Usesby ANNA BROOKS

Itrsquos difficult to imagine that sharp little number thatrsquos slicing away to the rhythm of your favourite cooking music (or to the beating of child-size fists hungry for dinner) was more often used for combat not chopping carrots

Despite King Louis XIVrsquos decree that the tips of knives be ground down to reduce violence in the mid-1600s kitchen knives still (for quite pointed reasons) make popular murder weapons

But we wonrsquot get into grisly stories of guts and gore here Whether yoursquore a chef extraordinaire or the person whose knife knowledge goes as far as cutting

vegetables with a steak knife there are some things everyone should know about knives

The first major thing we must insist upon is putting down that expensive 14-piece knife set As most knife experts can attest to three main knives can cover almost all the work that a layman cook needs to do in the kitchen

23

Three main knives can cover almost all the work that a layman cook needs

to do in the kitchen

Chefrsquos Knife Your standard knife for mincing and slicing vegetables and meat a chefrsquos knife is typically 20-25 cm long but can range all the way up to 36 cm

Luke Pickett from Knifewear is a sight to see wielding some wickedly sharp

handcrafted Japanese models but despite their carnivorous look Pickett said therersquos really nothing to fear

ldquoThere are a lot of people who are scared of really large knivesrdquo Pickett said ldquoBut having good quality kitchen equipment will make your life easierrdquo

For beginners a standard 20 cm chefrsquos knife (although Pickett said blade length is purely based on personal preference) is best to start with but a Japanese Santoku knife mdash an elegant slightly smaller version of a chefrsquos knife mdash will certainly get the job er meal done

Paring KnifeOn the other side of the knife spectrum is the pocket-sized paring knife (note carrying knives in pockets not recommended)

Regan Johnson assistant manager at The Cookbook Co said besides what the individual using a steak knife to cut everything might think the small intricate work required of a paring knife (such as peeling and trimming) should not be done on a cutting board

ldquoParing is anything you can be doing in the air mdash yoursquore not ever supposed to use a paring knife on a boardrdquo she explained

Johnson added that for someone like herself who does almost as much blade-wielding as a samurai she also recommends a utility knife

which is a hybrid of a chefrsquos knife and a paring knife

ldquoI reach for my utility knife a lotrdquo she said ldquoItrsquos got that shape of a paring knife but is longer Itrsquos just for those things in between that you donrsquot need your giant chefrsquos knife forrdquo

Bread KnifeThe last of the big three is of course a bread knife Have you ever tried to cut a loaf of bread with a straight blade Not so easy (or safe) a task

Itrsquos sometimes difficult to do but no matter the type of knife yoursquore using itrsquos important to try and slice as opposed to chopping or sawing It

is quite tempting (and often seems easier) to saw away at the crispy crust of a floured loaf of sourdough but Knifewearrsquos Pickett said sawing can

be a slippery slope to your bread knifersquos grave

ldquoIf you slice you can use the entire blade and itrsquos a lot sharper along the edgerdquo he explained ldquoItrsquos important to get a good bread knife because you canrsquot sharpen them like you can any other sort of kniferdquo

The Big Three

24

Having good quality kitchen equipment will

make your life easier

Anna Brooks is an award-winning journalist from Calgary Alberta She has worked internationally in Thailand and Africa and has been published in Metro BeatRoute Magazine and the Calgary Journal She also enjoys animal rights fantasy fiction and whiskey sours

Tips and TricksOf course you can adorn your kitchen with the countless others belonging to the knife family mdash cleavers carvers boning knives cheese knives etc mdash but if yoursquore not planning on hacking through solid bone anytime soon you probably donrsquot need to spend $200 on a meat cleaver

But there are some other knife-related implements that are important to have in your kitchen

First off a proper cutting board While plastic cutting boards are versatile and can be chucked in the dishwasher wood is really the best way to go Cutting boards are the quickest way to ruin a knife so steer clear of fancy-looking glass or granite boards mdash they are the antagonists of our story

Itrsquos also not a bad idea to have a knife honer on hand As a reminder (or for

those who had no idea what that random rod in the kitchen was used for) honers are for honing not sharpening

ldquoWith use the metal fibres in a knife edge can get bent to one side or another All yoursquore doing with honing is straightening those fibres back outrdquo Johnson from The Cookbook Co explained ldquoSharpening means yoursquore actually removing material and grinding the metal down to a finer edgerdquo

Johnson added that while you can sharpen at home she always recommends getting your knives sharpened professionally at least once a year depending on how much theyare used

Before you go back to making your lazy-day grilled cheese sandwich or that complex stew yoursquove spent hours on we just want to remind you of whatrsquos called ldquothe pinch griprdquo

Not to sound snobbish but grabbing a knife by the handle and hacking away is poor form Use your thumb and index finger to grasp the blade and then wrap your remaining fingers under the bolster of the knife Shape your other hand into a claw to protect your fingertips from accidentally getting lopped off firmly grasp the object to be cut and slice away

If this knowledge was present in the 17th century perhaps old King Louis XIV would be tipping his crown to more cooks not kitchen knife combatants

25

Times Are A Changing Unexpected Take-Outs

by LINDA GARSON and DIANA NG photography by INGRID KUENZEL

Therersquos no denying that many of our cityrsquos restaurants are feeling the effects of the current economic downturn fewer people working downtown ndash indeed fewer people working altogether and so looking to save money by eating out less means many bricks and mortar restaurants are having to get creative with ways to fully utilise their kitchens and staff

High rents exacerbate the situation so itrsquos time for Calgary restaurateurs to think outside the box and proving to be the innovative entrepreneurs that wersquore known for many are diversifying their offerings to include take-out options both raw and cooked

Catch amp The Oyster Bar launched their ldquoBuy Catchrdquo program where you can pick up fresh Ocean Wise seafood to take home and cook (complete with recipes) along with house-made clam chowder and sauces nearly two years ago There are big savings to be had over dining in with no costs for linen or staff and no expectation to tip

Here are four Calgary eateries also getting clever with take-out

programs that are not widely publicised - and may

open a few eyes

26

Centini Restaurant

Itrsquos not a cookie cutter program but the magic of Centinirsquos take-out is that you can ask the kitchen for ideas of what you should have for dinner People even text the servers for suggestions and to order Loyal customers mostly busy businessmen were asking if they catered but without the staff for such a service Centini started offering to prepare dishes for them to cook themselves

Now you can get your favourite restaurant dishes from rack of lamb with red wine demi-glace AAA Alberta beef tenderloin with Gorgonzola pan sauce and sea bass with ginger cream sauce ready to cook at home ldquoWersquore not going to open a bricks and mortar restaurant down south but our food is going thererdquo says Chevonne Centini Theyrsquore seeing pick-ups such as for people stuck at home with a new baby and even 40 people for a funeral

Boxwood

Itrsquos hard to believe that the quality of food coming from the sister restaurant to River Cafe can be had at home and we are not talking about leftovers When

People take home uncooked homemade pasta with sauce separately and even bread dough and often freeze it to cook later or pick up on a Friday evening so everything is prepared ready for Saturday dinner When buying from a restaurant yoursquore getting top quality perfectly trimmed meat everything is done for you - therersquos no shopping

around and even the parsley is chopped And as everything is custom-made all allergies are catered for too

Centini gets fish delivered once or twice every day and it may come as a surprise but with a chef garde manger that spent 15 years in Japan they have customers coming just to take out sushi

you go home to an empty fridge it feels like the only options you have are fast food or pizza Not so

Boxwoodrsquos fresh and seasonal fare is also available to take home While you wonrsquot

be able to enjoy the quaint atmosphere of the restaurant you can order anything on the menu for take out with its special offering being the whole rotisserie free-range chicken which serves two to four people for $40

Many bricks and mortar restaurants are

having to get creative with ways to fully utilise their

kitchens and staff

You will need to call a few hours ahead (the website states before 200 pm) for enough notice for the chicken but for the rest of the selection like its soups and sandwiches you can simply look up the menu online and call to place an order For a perfect night in may we suggest starting with its bison tartare then moving onto the porchetta and another main before finishing off the meal with a slice of pie

27

Gaucho

For most people the elaborate setup of Brazilian barbecue is one of its biggest attractions You may not know this and while you may not be able to take home the lively decor of Gaucho you can actually take the meal home

The spit packed tightly with freshly roasted meats the sign at the table that signals yoursquore ready for more and the roasted and caramelized pineapple that tops off the meal all contribute to the atmosphere but if all you want are the meats and sides for a hefty dinner you can certainly order the meal as a take-out

Order any of the four options (top sirloin pork loin chicken wings or mild sausage) and add three sides from the list of eight which includes a variety of salads black bean stew and rice And because you canrsquot just have one kind of meat when it comes to Brazilian barbecue you can choose additional

Safari Grill

The marinated thinly sliced BBQ short beef ribs at Safari Grill are already a must-have for those in the know but we suspect even regulars will be surprised to discover that you can pick

up uncooked ribs with your choice of seven marinades to take home and BBQ yourself

With none of the associated costs of dining in $65 buys you enough ribs for 10 people and customers actually drive

meats for $4 each Finally choose the sauce yoursquod like to accompany your meal Orders for over five people will come in a big white box and individual

orders come will in regular take-out containers For big parties do call a few hours ahead All you need to make at home is the caipirinha

from Saskatchewan to take away 10-15 lb bags of these uncooked marinated ribs Some people call and ask for them to be marinated and frozen in 5 lb bags to enjoy later as just 5-7 minutes each side on a high flame has the raw ribs ready to eat

And itrsquos not only ribs that people BBQ at home Mishkaki are skewers of marinated chicken beef and prawns and for as little as $3 each you can have a very inexpensive BBQ feast Marinated raw lamb chops are also available or ask for Samaki - a marinated whole tilapia that comes with a basting sauce to brush on You can even get uncooked samosas to cook in your oven at home

All Safari Grillrsquos regular menu can be ordered for take-out but there is no published price list for uncooked dishes so people call to order and ask - but when yoursquore picking up look out for the new jars of house-made mango and lemon pickles

28

Step By Step Go Nuts With Homemade Nutella And Waffles story and photography by NATALIE FINDLAY

There are many nutritional benefits packed into these small filberts They are rich in dietary fibre packed with folate an excellent source of vitamin E and contain mono-unsaturated fatty acids that

can help lower bad cholesterol and raise good cholesterol By making your own Nutella at home you can control the amount of sugar that is added making this delicious spread basicallyhellip a health food

Hazelnuts have a tried and true following for taking the lead role in the chocolate spread Nutella This long-standing love affair has lasted simply because they add a distinct but subtle flavour to the chocolate Truly a match that is better together than apart

These delicious and super-easy waffles make a great base for your homemade Nutella With the addition of ground hazelnuts to the batter you can deepen the hazelnut flavour and pack in more health benefits

Waffles with raspberries and white chocolate spread

29

Natalie is a freelance writer photographer and pastry chef A graduate of Cordon Bleursquos pastry program she manages her own business too to create custom-made cakes

Using the same waffle recipe from above and switching out the mashed banana and adding frac12 a medium orange ndash juice and zest ndash to the batter you have a delicious orange waffle that will highlight the white chocolate hazelnut spread recipe below

Homemade White Chocolate Hazelnut Spread Makes 1frac12 cups

1frac12 cups (200 g) whole hazelnutsfrac12 cup (70 g) icing sugar2 Tbs (30 mL) canola oil1 tsp (5 mL) vanilla extract1 cup (250g) white chocolate

Follow directions for Homemade Nutella and add the melted white chocolate at the end Pulse to combine

Macerated Raspberries with Orange Serves 6

250 g fresh raspberriesfrac12 medium orange zest and juice1 Tbs icing sugarfrac12 tsp vanilla extract

Add all ingredients into a medium bowl and stir to combine Let sit for about 1 hour

Serve your warm waffles topped with your white chocolate homemade hazelnut spread macerated berries and a dollop of whipped cream or ice cream

Note Homemade Nutella has more texture than store bought and will last around 1 month in the fridge Waffles can be made ahead and frozen Thaw and reheat in the waffle maker or the oven

Banana Fruit compoteMakes enough for 6

3 ripe bananas peeled sliced into rounds2 Tbs (30 g) butter2 Tbs (30 g) brown sugar1frac12 tsp (8 mL) vanilla extract1frac12 tsp (8 mL) bourbon

1 Add butter and sugar to a sauteacute pan over medium heat As they melt stir to combine

2 Add vanilla and bourbon than add sliced bananas and sauteacute until warmed through

Serve your warm waffles topped with your homemade hazelnut spread sauteacuteed bananas and a dollop of whipped cream or ice cream

Homemade Nutella Makes 1frac12 cups

1frac12 cups (200 g) whole hazelnutsfrac34 cup (100g) icing sugar3 Tbs (45 mL) canola oilfrac14 cup (30 g) cocoa powder1 tsp (5 mL) vanilla extract

1 Toast hazelnuts on a baking pan in a preheated 350ordm F oven for 10 - 15 minutes Keep an eye on them to make sure they donrsquot start to burn Remove from oven and let cool to the touch

2 Wrap the nuts in a kitchen towel and rub together to remove the skins This should remove most of the skins

3 Place skinless hazelnuts in a food processor on high Process the nuts until they form a smooth paste and the oils start to separate (about 5 minutes) scraping the bowl often

4 Add the icing sugar cocoa powder vanilla and canola oil to the food processor and process until fully incorporated scraping bowl of processor as needed (about 2 minutes)

Hazelnut Banana WafflesMakes 6

frac12 cup (80 g) all purpose flour1 tsp baking powderfrac12 tsp baking sodaPinch sea salt1 Tbs (15 g) icing sugar1 Tbs (10 g) ground hazelnuts6 grates whole nutmeg1 tsp ground cinnamonfrac12 cup (125 mL) buttermilk1 egg yolk2 Tbs (30 g) butter meltedfrac12 small banana peeled and mashed1 egg white

1 Sift together all dry ingredients (except the ground hazelnuts) in a medium bowl Add the ground hazelnuts and combine

2 Mash the half banana in a small bowl with a fork Add the egg buttermilk and melted butter

3 Whisk the egg white to stiff peaks

4 Whisk the wet ingredients into the dry and fold the egg white into the mixture

5 Follow the directions for your waffle pan to cook waffles for around 5 minutes or until cooked through

Note Remember to bring the waffle pan up to temperature in between each batch of waffles

Hazelnut Banana Waffles with Nutella

30

Citrus Beer Friendsby DAVID NUTTALL

This is when the taste andor aroma of a beer can remind the drinker of anything from an orange drink or lemonade to grapefruit soda There are several ways to achieve this character and these beers are becoming more and more popular every day

Hops provide the bitterness in beer and out of the literally hundreds of varieties a few impart citrus notes into the aroma and flavour Cascade and Citra are examples of two of the most popular hops used in several styles of beer most notably the American IPA or India Pale Ale Cascade hops have been around for over 40 years and it is the single most popular hop used by the American craft brewing industry It provides a floralspicy character often reminiscent of grapefruit

Citrarsquos name leaves no guessing as to its attributes A relative newcomer this cross breed of UK German and US hop varieties has been around for less than a decade but it is already an extremely popular hop for imparting

One of the great things about beer is its diversity It can come in a myriad of colours and also a wide variety of flavours citrus being one of the most distinct

Dave Nuttall has been in the liquor and event business forever He is a qualified beer judge and ownerpresident of Epicurean Calgary at epicureancalgarycom for ten years

citrus and tropical fruit characteristics to a beer

It has proven very versatile and appears in several beer styles from session ales to IPAs It has also become a favourite hop to use for dry-hopping (adding hops late into the boil) due to the exceptional aromas it produces For even more flavour and aroma craft brewers now commonly enhance these already citrusy IPAs with actual zest peel or juice from citrus fruits to create an IPAFruit Beer hybrid which sells especially well in summer months

Then there is the yeast and many varieties of yeast can produce citrusy esters The unfiltered hefeweizens brewed on both sides of the Atlantic quite often have a lemony flavour Sour beers also showcase the yeast often cultured from Belgian strains

These beers are tart and produce a gamut of flavours many with citrus qualities and some have added fruit - the easiest and most obvious way to create a citrusy beer The Belgians also add different kinds of oranges with spice additions to their wheat ales to create wit beers now emulated all over the world with different citrus (and other) fruits involved in the recipe We also canrsquot forget the radlers which are simply a lager beer mixed with 40-60 fruit juice - often grapefruit or lemonade

Whether itrsquos added fruit the yeast the hops or a combination of all of them citrusy beers are commonplace now Thanks to new hops like Citra and the increasing popularity of wits and sours we can expect this trend to continue

Here are a few local beers with hints of citrus All are also available on tap

Beer comes in a myriad of colours and flavours citrus being one of the

most distinct

Ribstone Creek Great White CombineThis tiny Edgerton Alberta brewery has been knocking it out of the park lately Named after the ubiquitous Alberta summer hailstorm the use of Belgian yeast sweet orange peel and coriander give this beer an orange flavour in the beginning When the four different hop additions kick in it changes more to a sweet lemony flavour This White IPA has a very tropical feel that makes you forget it was made in northern Alberta CSPC +774162 $16 6-pack cans

Wild Rose Cowbell Sour ales are the new Belle of the Ball at craft breweries Often using imported Belgian yeast strains they are tart tangy and wellhellip sour Calgaryrsquos Wild Rose has taken this flavour profile and added kaffir lime leaves This makes the beer more like a refreshing limeade and is less bitter than many of its other sour counterparts CSPC +778093 $17 6-pack bottles

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TICKETS AVAILABLE AT ALBERTABEERFESTIVALSCOM

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Citradelic Single Hop IPA Big Rock BreweryWith breweries in two (soon to be three) provinces Big Rock now has multiple locations to develop new beers This is the first one from their Vancouver brewery and is full of lemongrapefruit flavours and tropical aromas This beer showcases the Citra hop fooling one to think that citrus has been added when itrsquos all thanks to the hop CSPC +778593 $15 6-pack bottles

Alley Kat Main SqueezeWhat started out as a summer seasonal has now become a mainstay of this Edmonton brewery A North American style wheat ale with a 50 wheat and 50 barley mix it has added grapefruit juice but tastes more along the lines of pink grapefruit rather than its more bitter cousin CSPC +733630 $17 6-pack bottles

32

story by RENEE KOHLMAN

Cheesecake is one of those classic desserts that almost everyone loves unless of course you have a dairy allergy then yoursquoll stay far far away from it While it may seem too complicated to make at home I assure you that itrsquos not

Spice it up cheesecake

Sure there are a few steps involved but the key thing to remember is to have your eggs and cream cheese at room temperature For the best crack-free cheesecake itrsquos best to bake it in a water bath It yields a light creamy texture and is well worth the effort Cheesecake always tastes better the next day so bake it the day before you want to serve it Now that wersquove got the basics down itrsquos time to have a little fun with the crust filling and toppings

The Base

The classic graham cracker crust is fine but every now and again itrsquos great to switch things up Try

ndash Grinding up ginger cookies They work especially well for a pumpkin cheesecake

ndash Chocolate cookie crumbs are fantastic for caramel peanut butter and raspberry cheesecakes

ndash Add finely chopped nuts oats or seeds to the cookie crumbs for added texture and taste

The Middle

Therersquos something to be said for a straight up vanilla or chocolate cheesecake but with some fun add-ins they could take your cheesecake to the next level of deliciousness Try

ndash Swirling tahini dulce de leche salted caramel or chocolate fudge sauce into a creamy vanilla filling

ndash Mix in chopped chocolate peanut butter cups to a chocolate filling

ndash Drop fresh berries (raspberries blueberries blackberries) on top of a vanilla filling

ndash Stir in chopped candied ginger dried cherries or cranberries chopped toasted nuts to the filling

ndash Swap some of the cream cheese with ricotta mascarpone cheese or even strained cottage cheese

ndash You can never go wrong with lemon zest in a vanilla cheesecake

Have a little fun with the crust filling

and toppings

33

Apple Crumble CheesecakeMakes about 12-14 servings Total cook and prep time 3 hours (plus overnight chilling)

I love apple crisp and I love cheesecake This recipe is a fine marriage of both and makes a more than acceptable breakfast The base is a crumble of oats and flour the middle is classic cheesecake and itrsquos topped with cinnamon apples and a buttery oat streusel

Crust 2 cups large flake oats1 cup all purpose flour cup packed brown sugarfrac34 cup butter meltedfrac12 tsp salt

Cheesecake Layer3 - 225 g packages cream cheese at room temperature cup granulated sugar1 tsp (5 mL) vanilla3 large eggs at room temperature cup (80 mL) whipping cream

Apple Layer2 apples peeled cored and sliced about 3-4 mm thick1 tsp ground cinnamonfrac12 tsp salt

Streusel Layer1 cup large flake oatsfrac12 cup all-purpose flourfrac12 cup brown sugarfrac12 cup butter softened1 tsp ground cinnamon

Preheat the oven to 375ordm F

1 Butter the bottom and sides of a 9-inch springform pan with sides that are at least 7 cm high Wrap the bottom of the pan in aluminum foil so it comes at least halfway up the sides

2 Combine the crust ingredients in a large bowl Press the crust evenly into the pan and place on a baking sheet Bake for 10 minutes Remove from oven and let it cool on a wire rack

3 Reduce heat to 325ordm F Put a kettle of water on to boil Have a large roasting pan close by

4 Using a stand mixer with a paddle attachment beat the cream cheese at medium speed for 4 minutes scraping down the sides once or twice until it is soft and creamy With the mixer still running add the sugar and beat for another 4 minutes scraping down the sides of the bowl at least twice Beat in the vanilla Add the eggs one at a time beating for 1 minute after each addition and scraping the bowl Reduce speed to low and add the whipping cream

5 Toss the sliced apples with the cinnamon and salt in a small bowl Combine all of the streusel ingredients in a medium bowl and mix well

6 Place the springform pan in the roasting pan Give the cheesecake batter a good stir and pour it on top of the crust Arrange the apples on top and sprinkle the streusel on top of the apples

7 Place in the oven on the middle rack and pour the hot water into the roasting pan so it comes halfway up the sides of the springform pan

8 Bake the cheesecake for 1frac12 hours Turn off the heat prop open the oven door and let the cheesecake hang inside for another hour

9 Carefully remove from the oven and take out the cheesecake from the hot water bath Remove the foil and let the cheesecake come to room temperature on a wire rack Cover the top lightly and refrigerate for at least 4 hours but overnight is best The next day remove the sides of the pan and serve the cake

Renee is a food writer and pastry chef living in beautiful Saskatoon Saskatchewan Her columns appear in The Saskatoon StarPhoenix and her desserts can be enjoyed at Riverside Country Club Also check out her blog wwwsweetsugarbeancom

The Toppings

Cheesecake with no fun toppings is like a salad with no dressing it just doesnrsquot reach its full flavour potential Try

ndash Salted caramel roasted strawberry sauce or warm chocolate sauce

ndash A rhubarbcardamom compote is divine on top of vanilla cheesecake kissed with a bit of lemon zest Cherry compote is divine with chocolate cheesecake

ndash Have a favourite jam Melt it down with a tiny bit of water and drizzle it on top of your favourite cheesecake

ndash Candied nuts and citrus rind chocolate shavings even crumbled cookies are a fun way to add texture to the cheesecake

ndash Never underestimate the power of fresh seasonal berries and a well-made cheesecakeMacerate them in a little sugar and minced mint or basil and they make a lovely topping Donrsquot forget the whipped cream

34

Think about that for a moment and let that sink in like a cherry in your drink

So how old is ice in bars Well thatrsquos a whole story on its own however the Old Fashioned has been talked about in one form or another since the beginning of the 19th Century The first appearance of this classic cocktail was in the Balance and Columbian Repository newspaper in 1806 as such ldquoA stimulating liquor composed of spirits of any kind sugar water and bittersrdquo

The Old FashionedAn Iconic Drink That Has Stood The Test Of Time

by BRICE PERESSINI

Sohelliphow old is the Old Fashioned The Old Fashioned is as old as ice in bars

When you follow these instructions and put this finely-crafted cocktail into your hand swirl around the ice gaze through the caramel-coloured liquid in the glass and contemplate all that has gone into it you can rest assured you are holding a drink that has delighted taste buds for generations The Old Fashioned however has not always been held in high regard There was a time not too long ago where this fine concoction was an unbalanced fruity watered-down pale imitation of itself More recently

there has been a renaissance involved with this invigorating intoxicant and you can and should expect a proper cocktail when it is ordered at a fine establishment

When this drink is properly prepared it should be in perfect balance (as any proper drink should be) The sweetness of the sugar should not cover the flavour of the bourbon and the bitters should add to not overpower the flavour of the whiskey When the Old Fashioned is well made it is as close to cocktail perfection as a sophisticated patron could expect

Befriend a bespoke barkeep at an upstanding establishment and you will be in trusted hands If you find yourself at home and wanting for a nightcap look no further than the Old Fashioned

Enjoy friends

Old Fashioned Recipe

2 oz Buffalo Trace Bourbon (or your personal favourite)4 dashes Angostura Aromatic Bitters1 raw sugar cube

Muddle the sugar and bitters together with a touch of warm water in a rocks glass Add the bourbon then add ice Stir and garnish with an orange peel and cherry (optional)

Brice is a competition cocktail bartender who plies his trade behind the wood at Chefbar Whisk(e)y is his poison Neat

35

Shoulder Season Wines

by JACLYN ADOMEIT

Wines For Cool Weather

Refreshing white wines match with sunny patios and hot days while bold tannic red wines earn their keep by a fireplace on a winter night Common sense But what about the shoulder season What if yoursquore eating sea bass on a rainy spring day Or sipping wine on a patio during an uncommonly warm April afternoon

Photograph courtesy Tom Firth

36

Wine not only pairs with food but with temperatures and seasons A bright sauvignon blanc can taste flat and acidic on a cold night at no fault of the wine or the drinker Some white wines are other-worldly at the vineyard tasting room in the summer but fall flat when you pull them out for dinner guests in the winter

The change in taste is likely due to a number of factors Anatomically it is your sinus cavities creating the change Higher atmospheric pressures allow your nose to pick out subtle aromas while lower pressures bring out a winersquos acidity and harsh tannins CO2 degasses from liquid at low pressure leaving wines dull and flat too

Serving temperature can greatly affect a winersquos aromatics white wines chilled to near-freezing have dull aromas (Tip allow the bottle a half hour on the counter before popping the cork This will allow the aromatics to warm up enhancing the flavour)

Lastly your own palate will be partial to different flavours depending on sun snow wind and sleet but as a rule of thumb higher alcohol white wines (approximately 13 percent or more) will warm the soul and pair best with cooler weather

Here are some wine selections to go for when it is not too hot and not too cold so you can choose a pairing thatrsquos just right

Fiano

Yoursquoll notice that many of the best white wines for cold weather are grown in hot places Hot climates mean a longer growing season more sugar which leads to higher alcohol and often more robust and tropical flavours All of this is true for fiano - seldom grown outside of Campania in southern Italy Fiano produces age-worthy wines which are rich nutty and delicious

Feudi Di San Gregorio 2014 Campania Fiano di Avellino Italy A beautiful floral bouquet with candied lemon followed by honey-coated hazelnuts on the palate Worth cellaring for a few seasons The perfect dance partner for poultry CSPC +708589 $33

Viognier

Viognier is a white varietal that is best consumed at slightly higher temperatures A chilly glass of viognier will leave you with acid maybe oak and not much else Allow it to warm and you may experience peach pear and toasted almond

Traditionally grown in the warm south of France viognier is often a higher alcohol white wine with rich tropical flavours The heat of the alcohol with tropical flavours and lower acid makes viognier the perfect wine to sip while watching a late spring snowfall

Paul Mas 2014 Languedoc-Roussillon Viognier France Brimming with apricot almond lemon and ripe peach Contains hints of warming oak Pair with something savoury baked brie or spinach-filled puff pastry CSPC + 740978 $17

Dry Roseacute

There is so much more to be had from roseacute than white zinfandel And no itrsquos not just a mix of red and white wine The best roseacute is made from red skinned grapes that only sit on their skins for up to a day and a half to borrow colour and flavour then are fermented and processed

Refined examples of roseacute wines are often dry and have deep aromas of red fruits mild tannins and are savoury instead of sweet The French and Spanish craft great examples of dry roseacutes that are either a single varietal or a blend of grapes such as mourvegravedre grenache syrah or tempranillo

Muga Roseacute 2014 Rioja Grenache Viura and Tempranillo Spain A tamed Rioja Orange blossom woven together with strawberry and a palate of cherry and savoury soft cheese Ideal for charcuterie CSPC + 710261 $16

Orange Wine

Never heard of orange wine A commercial demand for natural wines has fostered a resurgence in ancient wine making practices While roseacute wines are reds that have been produced using white wine making practices orange wines are created from white grapes submitted to maceration and allowed to sit on the skins before fermentation the same practice employed in red winemaking

Unlike any white you have tasted orange wines are full-bodied have mild tannins and deep flavours - the characteristics that allow red wines to bring warmth to cool nights A must try for any wine buff

Allow the bottle a half hour on the counter

before popping the cork

The Bicicleta wines are characterized by their fruity expression and for offering more than

the traditional strains a clear example of this range`s innovation style and creativity

Cono Sur Vineyards amp Winery ConoSurVineyards ConoSurWinesconosurcom

The brewhouse at Wild Rose

Jaclynrsquos first passion was winemaking Shersquos worked in vineyards cellars and restaurants Currently she is a writer who daylights as an environmental engineer She believes that a good life like a good wine is not complete without balance

Nichol 2013 Naramata Pinot Gris Canada A Canadian example of orange wine with backbone Flavours of caramel apple roast nuts orange rind and peach CSPC +504159 $31

Oaked chardonnay

In and out with popular palates oak and chardonnay have been partners for a long time Oak paired with chardonnay can bring out butter richness toasted vanilla tree fruit and in the best examples shimmering minerality That is because oak aging is often accompanied by a malolactic fermentation process that smooths out rigid acids into lactic acid - the acid found in milk

Chardonnay is a grape of many talents and encounters a great diversity of production styles It is oaked examples that pair best with pensive rainy days They are full-bodied warming and complex

Wente Morning Fog 2014 Livermore Valley (California) Chardonnay USA Half oak-aged and malolactic-fermented half crisp and fresh this chardonnay brings together green apple vanilla and toasted oak A friend to cream sauce and roast chicken CSPC +175430 $18

In a province of mutable weather let your wine choices be as varied as the ever changing winds Cheers and herersquos to refined full-bodied cool-weather wines

38

Once yoursquore done with your magazine cover shoot like we did this month or prepping for dinner and have all of those odds and ends just sitting on the cutting board - you know carrot ends onion skins tips of celery stalks you get the point - donrsquot toss lsquoem

Instead place them into a large ziploc bag and straight into the freezer After a couple of weeks yoursquoll likely have four full freezer bags of vegetable bits ready to be turned into broth and herersquos how you do it

Making a big batch of vegetable broth doesnrsquot always mean a trip to the grocery store All you need to do is save those scraps This is a handy trick I learned years ago courtesy of Bon Appetit

No-Waste Vegetable Broth

by DAN CLAPSON

Odds And Ends BrothYields 8 cups (2 L)

12 cups (3 L) water4 full ziploc bags of vegetable trimmings1 yellow onion quartered4 cloves garlicAromatics of choice (I usually toss a couple of rosemary and thyme sprigs in there)To taste Salt and pepper

1 Place all ingredients in a large pot and bring to a boil on medium-high heat

2 Reduce to medium heat and let simmer uncovered for 1frac12 hours

3 Strain season to taste with salt and pepper and use as desired

Full circlePizza amp Oyster Bar

933 17 Ave SW bull fullcirclepizzaca

buck-a-shuck oysters

$1 oysters every night

9 pm - close Sunday-thursday 11 pm - close friday amp saturday

40

Salentein 2012 Reserve Chardonnay Uco Valley Argentina

Very very enjoyable chardonnay blowing me away with complexity varietal character and fine balance between oak lees and fruit Toffee baked apple tangerine and a little almond on the nose lead into silkily textured wine in the mouth Top shelf chardonnay that might be great with lobster tails mussels or poultry Around $20 CSPC +779479

Rutini 2013 Cabernet Malbec Mendoza Argentina

An exceptionally well put together blend - if you want rich berry fruits lots of body but maybe not tons of varietal characters from the individual components Lifted and bright fruits make for a very enjoyable glass Simply perfect for your next barbecue a roast or just chilling out with friends and family $26-30 CSPC +776822

Vinecol 2014 Organic Malbec Mendoza Argentina Fair Trade organic and vegan along with a good price is it still good Piles of fresh fruits (think smashed raspberries) with plenty of spice and soft herb-leaf aromas There are plenty of malbec flavours on the palate too Good for any day of the week with just a little tension between fruit tannin and acid it might be best with pub style burgers pulled pork or sausages About $16 CSPC +755296

Argentina is so much more than malbec While such a noble grape has found its best home in the high altitude vineyards of Argentina there is a lot going on with other grapes as well

Making The Case For Argentina

by TOM FIRTH

This massive country nestled up against the Andes mountains has a range of growing conditions suited to a number of grapes From Salta in the north to Patagonia in the south plenty of interesting wines are available here - many reasonably priced and of excellent quality So yes there are some

malbecs on these pages but please do try some of the other grapes and blends coming from Argentina too

Be sure to crack open a bottle of malbec on ldquoWorld Malbec Dayrdquo April 17 - who knows it might be nice enough to barbecue too

Photograph courtesy Tom Firth

41

Manos Negras 2011 Stone Soil Select Mendoza Argentina Quite new to the market this is a pretty enjoyable version of Argentinarsquos flagship grape Loads of blue fruit and raspberries with spices galore and a little compost Rich flavours lead to a lengthy spicy finish Yes please Bring to a barbecue if you can $21 CSPC +630541

Zuccardi 2012 Zeta Mendoza Argentina

A malbec-cabernet sauvignon blend that is also a blend of two different Mendoza appellations La Consulta and Gualtallary Deep and abundant fruit aromas with liquorice root and a touch of blueberry preserves Excellent balance of flavours on the palate too with the right structure and tannin for aging if desired Enjoy with a prime rib or even meaty pasta dishes or game $50-52 CSPC +740270

Zuccardi 2012 ldquoEmmardquo Bonarda Mendoza Argentina

In my humble opinion one of the finest bonardas coming out of Argentina Notes of coffee bean and espresso complement cherry and blackberry fruits with healthy balanced tannins to stand up to the tart fruits Delicious for sure enjoy at your next barbecue $40 CSPC +758407

Luigi Bosca 2011 Cabernet-Malbec Mendoza Argentina

A wonderfully earthy and savoury blend with plenty of tobacco spice leather and yes lots of fruit too The earthy flavours work well with the big dark chocolate flavours and weighty tannins Drink now or through 2020 or so - with a steak naturally $22-24 CSPC +766010

Trivento 2013 Golden Reserve Malbec Lujan de Cuyo Argentina While there is a trend to see a lot of premium malbecs move away from oak presence this one is a bold smooth and delicious example that is seeing about a year of oak All those berry fruits plums and herb notes malbec is known for along with the smoothness that only oak brings Kick back relax maybe cook up some steaks - enjoy About $24 CSPC +711402

Trivento 2014 Malbec Reserve Mendoza Argentina Nearly unbeatable for good malbec at a great price itrsquos rich and chocolatey on the nose with big fruits and oak tones too Mild garrigue notes or dried herb flavours with plenty of fruit and tannins - still showing a fine sense of balance Enjoy with beef $14 CSPC +730714

Luigi Bosca 2011 De Sangre Mendoza Argentina A blend of cabernet sauvignon merlot and syrah that manages to pull out the best of each varietal Earthy and slightly smoky with good fruits and plenty of versatility Tannins are well-placed against the fruits with a long smooth finish Irsquove been a fan of this wine year after year Good to keep a couple on hand in the cellar About $29 CSPC +745106

Salentein 2012 Numina Gran Corte Uco Valley Argentina A malbec-dominated Bordeaux blend this stunner is all about ripe fruits cedar pepper cherries and plum with a little tealeaf and the right amount of tannins Very very well balanced and like any great wine think about some food to go with it Beef tenderloin slow cooked meats or maybe at your next asadohellip About $40 CSPC +764706

Colonia Las Liebres 2013 Bonarda Mendoza Argentina Bear with me here - a fine bonarda with plenty of earthy smoky aromas leading to rubber charred cherries and cocoa Some pretty prominent tannins to be found as well but wow does it all come together A wine that just begs for duck with cranberries or maybe some kebabshellip$20 CSPC +773381

42

Open That Bottleby LINDA GARSON photography by INGRID KUENZEL

ldquoIf you work in a place and yoursquore miserable I donrsquot know if there is a dollar amount that can be attached to that The work that yoursquore doing has to be rewarding and challengingrdquo says Karen KhoGrowing up in Niagara Falls in a Philippino SpanishChinese family Kho was surrounded by food and drinks with an open door policy that has had a huge influence on the person she is today - an

entertainer who likes to make people feel welcome ldquoMy parents wanted me to be a lawyer there was definitely an encouragement to use my voice for goodrdquo she explains ldquoAnd I still think I help people but in a different way a very social wayrdquo

Graduating Western University with a political science degree in 2000 Kho spent a year travelling and living in Australia before taking a leap of faith and moving to Calgary Here she studied wine with the International Sommeliers Guild and WSET but says her real education was a job she adored working in the wine trade at BIN 905 in tandem with running wine programs for CRMR restaurants It was only when the opportunity came to create the wine program at Vin Room six years later that Kho leapt at the challenge of a new idea for the city and spent four happy years there

Eventually she and her partner decided to stretch their wings and went to Vancouver where Kho embarked on a six-month culinary course at the Pacific Institute of Culinary Arts ticking off another box on her bucket list ldquoI wanted a greater understanding of technique in the kitchen and I wanted an understanding of what service on a very basic level would look like if I ever owned my own place and ever had to be the person who filled inrdquo she says ldquoI feel if I was ever in a place that needed someone to chop onions Irsquom your womanrdquo she laughs

A year later the pair came back with the idea of eventually opening their own business in Calgary ldquoThe support we get from this community is heartfelt and this is a city of opportunity People with the right concept are seeing a lot of great success itrsquos still our game planrdquo she says Meanwhile Kho applied only to Teatro where she is now Group Service Director

ldquoI wanted to work at a place that had a challenging wine program and had a level of service with high expectations and where professional service teams

applyrdquo she says ldquoItrsquos pretty romantic to work for a company that has been built on a foundation of service Successful businesses in the restaurant industry get the grand picture which is the moments that yoursquore creating for people and I like to be a part of thatrdquo she adds

So what bottle is Kho saving for a special occasion

Paying homage to her time at BIN 905 Kho explains ldquoI have a bottle of 1996 Chateau Mouton Rothschild which was given to me with some very kind words on my last day at BIN Irsquove always just appreciated my time there it was where I learned the vernacular of wine and itrsquos my first job where I really saw the benefits of serving people with intentionrdquo She continues ldquoI always see it thankfully as the stepping-stone to a broader wine profession and eventually to the position that I have now It was given to me by very close friends that Irsquom still friends with to this dayrdquo

And when is she planning to open the wine

ldquoWhen (partner) Dave and I open our own restaurantrdquo Kho says This isnrsquot something that something that will happen tomorrow but fortunately the wine will last until theyrsquore ready

Charcoal-grilled prime cutsHand-muddled caipirinhas50+ salad bar optionsThree distinct private rooms

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(587) 354-3441

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14

Chef Kai SalimaumlkiThe Block

Chef Salimaumlki is all about a great multipurpose knife ldquoI love the Masakage Kumo Petty 150 mm knife Itrsquos ideal for numerous tasks in the kitchen but I especially love it for chopping fine herbs Itrsquos lightweight and has a remarkably sharp edge that has chives bouncing from under it in perfect uniform circlesrdquo he explains

The Petty knife is ideal for smaller jobs such as slicing shallots cutting herbs and boning smaller proteins And because of its size itrsquos also a great alternative for those who feel uncomfortable wielding a larger heavier chefrsquos knife

ldquoI would recommend this knife for the home cook as it can replace many utility knives people seem to collect in drawers And of course most importantly I recommend proper love attention and care to ensure you keep this tool functioning for a very long timerdquo

You simply canrsquot do your best without your equipment at its best

Chef Jorel ZielkeBrasserie Kensington and Winebar

ldquoIrsquom a huge fan of my 10frac34-inch MAC chefrsquos knife This multipurpose knife is modeled after the standard French chefrsquos kniferdquo says Zielke

Sirloin Beef TartareServes 2

335 g AAA beef sirloin2 Tbs (30 mL) grainy mustard cup minced shallots Tbs minced gherkins2 Tbs cup finely chopped parsley Worcestershire sauce to tasteHot sauce to tasteCold pressed canola oil to taste 1 egg yolk in tact with all whites removedPinch of fresh grated horseradishSalt and pepper

1 Finely dice the sirloin removing any connective tissue or silver-skin Do not trim off the fat Pass over the meat several times with your knife

2 Mix in mustard shallots gherkins parsley Worcestershire hot sauce oil and salt and pepper

3 Note All garnish measurements are suggestions as tartares vary to personal taste Add enough oil to moisten dish but be careful not to oversaturate

4 Top tartare with raw egg yolk and freshly grated horseradish

5 Serve with anything you can pick it up with such as crostini crackers fresh bread fresh heirloom tomato or crisp lettuce

ldquoI canrsquot emphasize enough the importance of respecting your tools by keeping them clean and properly functioning to avoid safety issues You simply canrsquot do your best without your equipment at its bestrdquo

ldquoA sharp knife is key when dicing raw meat like in my recipe belowrdquo he continues ldquoKeep in mind that itrsquos not firm like an onion or a stick of celery Meat shifts and moves as you prepare it so itrsquos important to slow down and take your time when preparing a dish like tartarerdquo

Chef Jorel Zielke

Chef Kai Salimaumlki

15

Robyn is a public relations professional and occasional writer with a passion for food and beverages Despite city hopping from her home in Calgary to Anchorage AK you can still find her on Twitter robynalana

Braised Brisket with Carrot Puree and Napa Cabbage Serves 4

900 ndash 1125 g brisket5 carrots peeled and sliced 12-16 baby potatoes 1 head of Napa cabbage julienned5 parsnips peeled and sliced 2 tomatoes quartered2 yellow onions quartered1 yellow onion thinly sliced6 sprigs of thyme4 sprigs of rosemary 6 whole cloves of garlic3-4 Tbs butter1 Tbs black peppercornsCanola oil4 cups (1 L) beef stock or water1 cup (240 mL) of milkHoney to tasteSalt and pepper 1 Season brisket liberally with salt and pepper (you can braise whole or cut it into smaller chunks)

2 In a large sauteacute pan heat canola oil until it has reached its smoking point Sear the meat on all sides until golden brown and caramelized

3 Remove from pan and place in a large ovenproof baking dish covering with beef stock (or water) Add peppercorns two sprigs of rosemary 4 sprigs of thyme whole garlic tomatoes and the quartered onions

4 Cover with tin foil and braise for approximately for 3-3frac12 hours at 325ordm F or until fork tender

5 Remove from the braising juices spoon off any excess fat and strain juices into a saucepot reduce on a medium heat until a nice thick sauce has formed

6 For carrot puree add two tablespoons of butter in a heavy bottomed saucepan and sauteacute sliced onion and diced carrots together over medium heat Yoursquore not looking to brown the vegetables but rather simmer in the butter

7 After 10 minutes cover the mixture with milk add 2 sprigs of thyme and season with salt Simmer until soft and tender

8 Strain the carrots and reserve the milk throw out the thyme sprigs Place the carrots and onions in a blender and slowly add the milk until a nice puree is achieved check seasoning and thickness and adjust if necessary Set aside 9 Sauteacute julienned cabbage in a tablespoon of butter season with salt and add 2 tablespoons of water Reduce heat and cook for 5 minutes stirring frequently

ldquoI recommend proper love attention and care to ensure you keep this tool functioning for a

very long timerdquo

10 Toss sliced carrots and parsnips with honey chopped rosemary and thyme season with salt and pepper and roast in the oven for an hour at 325ordm F or until tender 11 Boil the baby potatoes in heavily salted water until fork tender

12 To serve set up 4 plates and spoon carrot puree on the bottom of the plate in a circle Arrange potatoes carrots and parsnips around the plate place Napa cabbage in the middle and place brisket on top Spoon the reduced braising liquid over the meat

16

As Nemeth chats with customers other vendors and friends who stop by her enthusiastic greetings and joyous laughter are hard to ignore mdash this is a woman who clearly likes people In fact she loves them Warm hearty and full of surprises the words used to describe Nemethrsquos personality can just as easily be used to describe her soup

The Primal Soup Co is a fairly new entity mdash the frozen containers of soup with flavours like Mango Butternut Squash Spinach Artichoke and Feta and Thai Coconut Chicken first showed up at the Market on MacLeod (then the

Going To MarketPrimal Soup Company Finds Its Homeby ELIZABETH CHORNEY-BOOTH photography by INGRID KUENZEL

If you happen to spy Margaret Nemeth at one of her Primal Soup Company booths at the Crossroads Market or the Market on MacLeod yoursquoll immediately see that the energetic atmosphere of a Farmersrsquo Market suits her

Kingsland Farmersrsquo Market) in 2011 mdash but Nemeth is not new to the food and beverage game

Long-time Calgarians may recognize the Primal name and the taste of Nemethrsquos homemade soups from the now defunct Primal Grounds Cappuccino Bar and Eatery in Killarney which Nemeth owned and ran from 1996 through to 2010

Nemeth opened that business after a career in oil and gas and the stand-alone cafeacute was a solid success for her Not only did it serve up great coffee Nemeth quickly made a name for herself with her homemade soup creations All homemade and gluten-free (due to Nemethrsquos own dietary restrictions) Primal Grounds was catering to people with gluten intolerances long before it became fashionable

ldquoWe were pioneers and it was so much funrdquo Nemeth says ldquoThere were lots of ups and downs but it was a good liferdquo

ldquoWhen yoursquore in a market you have to give people reasons to stoprdquo

Margaret Nemeth

17

Nemeth sold the cafeacute when a real estate developer made her an offer she couldnrsquot refuse but she still felt the urge to be around people and feed them So she set up shop in the markets - first the Market on MacLeod and then in January of 2015 she opened a stall in the rebranded Crossroads Market

Elizabeth Chorney-Booth is a Calgary-based writer and co-founderco-editor of RollingSpooncom and Wapawekkacom She enjoys exploring the connection between music and food through interviews with musicians and chefs

Primal Soup also sells lunch items like gourmet macaroni and cheese sandwiches and homemade pies and pastries so that market wanderers can stop by the stall and grab a full lunch while perusing the soup cooler for something to take home for a future meal

ldquoWhen yoursquore in a market you have to give people reasons to stoprdquo Nemeth says ldquoSo we offer things to go with the soup which also gives them ideas for what they can do at home Or sometimes theyrsquoll come for a sandwich and then theyrsquoll look at the soups You have to give people reasons to be in this spacerdquo

ldquoWe were pioneers and it was so much funrdquo

Whatever Nemeth is doing it seems to be working Between the two farmersrsquo markets and specialty retailers like the Market on 17th Sunnyside Market and SPUD delivery boxes Primal Soup Co sells over 1000 containers of soup every week Nemeth develops the recipes herself but has hired a full-time chef to keep up with the demand Personality and strategic stall locations in busy farmersrsquo markets alone isnrsquot enough to move that kind of volume of soup mdash while Nemeth has made smart business decisions over the course of Primalrsquos various incarnations the key to her success really lies in the product itself Everything is made from scratch without the aid of pre-bought soup bases and Nemeth uses seasonal ingredients (only 20 to 30 of her 50 soup varieties are ever available at any given time) supporting her neighbours at the markets when possible Her meat stocks are built from organic chicken bones Wintersrsquo turkey carcasses and duck bones from fellow market vendor Green Eggs and Ham to build a rich and delicious broth ldquoI layer my soupsrdquo Nemeth says ldquoI donrsquot just throw everything in the pot together And there has to be a twist in every one There has to be something

that you donrsquot expect mdash a surprise in every boxrdquo

To bring things full circle Nemeth has a new venture that just opened kitty corner to her Primal Soup stall in the Crossroads Market a beautiful and shiny new Primal Grounds coffee location With a long counter for people to sit at for as long as they like (Nemeth jokes that itrsquos the perfect place for bored spouses to sit while their partners shop the market) itrsquos an updated nod to what got Primal Soup started in the first place

And itrsquos also a testament to Nemethrsquos dedication to market life mdash the lack of control she has over her own hours and some other aspects arenrsquot perfect but the busyness the proximity to like-minded vendors and most of all the people she gets to interact with on a constant basis has put Nemeth exactly where she belongs ldquoYoursquore only as strong as the market is collectivelyrdquo she says ldquoItrsquos different than being a restaurant but I have to say itrsquos the funnest thing Irsquove ever donerdquo

ldquoThere has to be something that you donrsquot

expect mdash a surprise in every boxrdquo

18

Soup Kitchenstory and photography by DAN CLAPSON

The fresh hang-up-your-winter-jacket feeling is finally in the air ndash and that my friends is a wonderful thing Gone are the days where wersquove looked forward to spooning into a big bowl of creamy soup or sitting down to some chicken noodle soup to help shake off the winter sniffles These days Irsquom more concerned with light and bright flavours and less calorie-ridden meals

so I wonrsquot look completely undesirable in a swimsuit come June

Here are two great recipes that just happen to be vegan but are bursting with flavour

Serves 5 Total cook time 35 minutes

6 cups (15 L) vegetable broth1 cup (240 mL) white wine1 cup (240 mL) water2 Tbs (30 mL) tomato paste2 cups dry green lentils1 red onion halved and thinly sliced1 small fennel bulb halved and thinly sliced2 tsp (10 mL) maple syrup1 tsp dried oreganofrac12 tsp ground turmericfrac12 tsp chili flakesfrac12 tsp ground cinnamon1 pinch nutmeg2 cups thinly sliced red Swiss chardTo taste salt and pepper

1 Place broth wine water and tomato paste in a large pot and bring to a simmer on medium-high heat Add lentils and cook for 15 minutes

2 Add onion fennel maple syrup and spices and continue to cook for 15 minutes

Spiced Green Lentil and Chard Soup

3 Add Swiss chard and cook until leaves are tender about 2-3 minutes Season to taste with salt and pepper and serve

Dan Clapson is a freelance food writer and columnist in Calgary When hersquos not writing about Canadarsquos amazing culinary scene he is likely listening to 80s rock or 90s boy bands Follow him on twitter dansgoodside

Spinach and Cashew Soup with Poblano and Scallion Salsa

Serves 4 Total cook time 30 minutes not including cashew soak time

Soup1frac12 cups roasted cashews2 cups (500 mL) water4 cups (1 L) vegetable broth4 cups cooked spinach1 Tbs (15 mL) apple cider vinegar1 Tbs (15 mL) maple syrupfrac12 tsp cayenne peppersalt and pepper to tastecashew butter for garnish optional

1 Place cashews and water in a container cover and let sit on counter overnight

2 Combine cashews water and remaining soup ingredients in a blender and pureacutee until very smooth

3 Pour contents of blender through a fine mesh strainer into a medium pot Bring to a simmer on medium-high heat and cook for 15 minutes Season to taste with salt and pepper and keep warm on stove until ready to serve

4 Place a couple of spoonfuls of the salsa into each bowl and ladle soup around it Add a couple of dollops of cashew butter for a little extra richness

Salsa1 large poblano pepper halved and seeds removed1 bunch scallions2 Tbs (30 mL) canola oil2 Tbs fresh mint roughly chopped1 tsp (5 mL) lemon juicefrac12 tsp cane sugarfrac12 tsp chili flakessalt and pepper to taste

1 Preheat oven to 400ordm F

2 Place poblano halves and scallions on a baking sheet drizzle with oil and roast until slightly charred about 15-18 minutes

3 Remove from oven allow to cool slightly then give them a rough chop

4 Add to a bowl with remaining ingredients and toss to combine Season liberally with salt and pepper

20

Photograph courtesy California Wine Institute

Ever since Napa Valley cabernet sauvignons and chardonnays bested their more historic counterparts from Bordeaux and Burgundy in the now-famous Judgment of Paris tasting in 1976 California and its flagship region have carried the torch for the bold dense fruity lushly oaked wines that brought them worldwide fame

Forty years later this sun-drenched style of wines remains both unapologetically enjoyable and wildly popular and Napa is on the bucket list of any devoted wine tourist But as tastes and trends start to evolve away from a focus on power and concentration towards greater elegance and food-friendliness winemakers in California are again taking to the frontier gravitating towards the statersquos physical and climatic extremes to explore new boundaries of flavour and complexity Californiarsquos cooler corners

California Coolby PETER VETSCH

California is a land of frontiers dangling on the edge of the Pacific home of the Gold Rush and epicentre of the New Worldrsquos insurgence onto the global wine scene

are fast becoming its second face in the world of wine

Sonoma County north of San Francisco and just west of Napa is probably Californiarsquos second best-known region almost equally recognized for its cabernets chardonnays and zinfandels The largest subregion in the county taking up almost a third of its total area is the western Sonoma Coast too expansive at 500000 acres to have a distinct identity

However the western border of this appellation a razorrsquos edge straddling the ocean locally known as the ldquotruerdquo Sonoma Coast showcases the regionrsquos true character - extreme viticulture wet cool and always windy at elevations up to 2000 feet balanced on the San Andreas Fault with many vines growing above the fog line and constantly exposed to the throes of the Pacific Pinot noir takes on a unique expression here on low-yielding vines in the cool above the rest of Sonoma offering both remarkable purity of fruit and astonishing acidity and structure

Pinot is also predominant in the relatively new Santa Rita Hills subregion of the Santa Ynez Valley located an hour and a half northwest of Los Angeles and similarly perched right alongside the ocean The maritime influence dominates the microclimate and counteracts the California sun with fog and cool breezes to the point where this coastal spot becomes a near ideal substitute for chilly Burgundy Here the core Burgundian varietals of pinot noir and chardonnay thrive in a particularly striking edgy way

Santa Ynez is the only wine region in the western hemisphere where the arearsquos defining mountain range runs east-west instead of north-south creating a sort of maritime wind tunnel that sucks cold Pacific air eastward This leads to some of the largest diurnal (day to night) temperature shifts in North America and allows inland grapes ripening in the scorching daytime heat to recharge and maintain acidity at night This special geological feature allows a wide range of reds in Santa Ynez to be juicy but still structured bold yet balanced from cabernet and merlot to syrah and grenache

Halfway between the Sonoma Coast to the north and the Santa Rita Hills to the south along yet another coastline

California can comfortably both provide continuity

and defy stereotype

Wine Picks

Peter is a local lawyer by day and wine writer by night maintaining his own wine blog at popandpourca He is always on the lookout for the next way to experience wine and the next good bottle to try

A LITTLE SIBLING RIVALRY NEVER HURT ANYBODY

FOUR SETTINGS ONE PHILOSOPHY crmrcom338 - 17th Avenue SW

c i l a n t ro

747 Lake Bonavista Dr SE113 - 8th Avenue SW 340 - 17th Avenue SW

Sequoia Grove 2012 Cabernet Sauvignon (Napa Valley)Textbook cabernet from Naparsquos heart of Rutherford with deep black fruit mint and cedarhellip and a survivable price tag CSPC +740382 $56

Hartford Court Landrsquos Edge Vineyard Pinot Noir (Sonoma Coast)The ferocity of the Sonoma Coast somehow creates the picture of elegance in this juicy yet delicate pinot CSPC +717210 $60

Domaine de la Cote 2013 Pinot Noir (Sta Rita Hills) Seriously pushes the boundaries picked almost insanely early for low-alcohol herbal pomegranate and rhubarb acidic tension and energy CSPC +761893 $58

Alice May Crosswinds Syrah (Santa Ynez Valley) A syrahviognier Cote Rotie-style co-ferment that matches Cali ripeness with surprising verve and delicacy CSPC +761131 $28

Ridge 2013 Geyserville (Santa Cruz Mountains)This will change your expectations of zinfandel A zin-heavy field blend it combines the best of its mountain altitude and the California sun CSPC +426379 $55

just south of San Jose the wineries of the Santa Cruz Mountains prove again that those seeking to make modern moderate wines in California head both west and up The highest vineyards in Santa Cruz despite being just miles from the ocean are at 2600 feet this significant altitude and the cool Pacific climate results in chiseled wines with controlled ripeness and serious staying power

The region is both expansive and miniscule with only 1500 of its 480000 acres currently planted to grapes and its very-California plantings (cabernet chardonnay pinot noir zinfandel and merlot) all take on an Old World character and rusticity from its rugged terrain and stony mineral-laden soils Despite the challenges associated with growing grapes on a cool rock face Santa Cruz is a state leader in sustainable growing practices

The friendly sunny face of California wine is surely here to stay but Santa Cruz Santa Ynez and the Sonoma Coast are permanent proof that the state is readily capable of more than one expression With its range of climate and terrain California can comfortably both provide continuity and defy stereotype

22

En GardeA Beginnerrsquos Guide To Knives And Their Usesby ANNA BROOKS

Itrsquos difficult to imagine that sharp little number thatrsquos slicing away to the rhythm of your favourite cooking music (or to the beating of child-size fists hungry for dinner) was more often used for combat not chopping carrots

Despite King Louis XIVrsquos decree that the tips of knives be ground down to reduce violence in the mid-1600s kitchen knives still (for quite pointed reasons) make popular murder weapons

But we wonrsquot get into grisly stories of guts and gore here Whether yoursquore a chef extraordinaire or the person whose knife knowledge goes as far as cutting

vegetables with a steak knife there are some things everyone should know about knives

The first major thing we must insist upon is putting down that expensive 14-piece knife set As most knife experts can attest to three main knives can cover almost all the work that a layman cook needs to do in the kitchen

23

Three main knives can cover almost all the work that a layman cook needs

to do in the kitchen

Chefrsquos Knife Your standard knife for mincing and slicing vegetables and meat a chefrsquos knife is typically 20-25 cm long but can range all the way up to 36 cm

Luke Pickett from Knifewear is a sight to see wielding some wickedly sharp

handcrafted Japanese models but despite their carnivorous look Pickett said therersquos really nothing to fear

ldquoThere are a lot of people who are scared of really large knivesrdquo Pickett said ldquoBut having good quality kitchen equipment will make your life easierrdquo

For beginners a standard 20 cm chefrsquos knife (although Pickett said blade length is purely based on personal preference) is best to start with but a Japanese Santoku knife mdash an elegant slightly smaller version of a chefrsquos knife mdash will certainly get the job er meal done

Paring KnifeOn the other side of the knife spectrum is the pocket-sized paring knife (note carrying knives in pockets not recommended)

Regan Johnson assistant manager at The Cookbook Co said besides what the individual using a steak knife to cut everything might think the small intricate work required of a paring knife (such as peeling and trimming) should not be done on a cutting board

ldquoParing is anything you can be doing in the air mdash yoursquore not ever supposed to use a paring knife on a boardrdquo she explained

Johnson added that for someone like herself who does almost as much blade-wielding as a samurai she also recommends a utility knife

which is a hybrid of a chefrsquos knife and a paring knife

ldquoI reach for my utility knife a lotrdquo she said ldquoItrsquos got that shape of a paring knife but is longer Itrsquos just for those things in between that you donrsquot need your giant chefrsquos knife forrdquo

Bread KnifeThe last of the big three is of course a bread knife Have you ever tried to cut a loaf of bread with a straight blade Not so easy (or safe) a task

Itrsquos sometimes difficult to do but no matter the type of knife yoursquore using itrsquos important to try and slice as opposed to chopping or sawing It

is quite tempting (and often seems easier) to saw away at the crispy crust of a floured loaf of sourdough but Knifewearrsquos Pickett said sawing can

be a slippery slope to your bread knifersquos grave

ldquoIf you slice you can use the entire blade and itrsquos a lot sharper along the edgerdquo he explained ldquoItrsquos important to get a good bread knife because you canrsquot sharpen them like you can any other sort of kniferdquo

The Big Three

24

Having good quality kitchen equipment will

make your life easier

Anna Brooks is an award-winning journalist from Calgary Alberta She has worked internationally in Thailand and Africa and has been published in Metro BeatRoute Magazine and the Calgary Journal She also enjoys animal rights fantasy fiction and whiskey sours

Tips and TricksOf course you can adorn your kitchen with the countless others belonging to the knife family mdash cleavers carvers boning knives cheese knives etc mdash but if yoursquore not planning on hacking through solid bone anytime soon you probably donrsquot need to spend $200 on a meat cleaver

But there are some other knife-related implements that are important to have in your kitchen

First off a proper cutting board While plastic cutting boards are versatile and can be chucked in the dishwasher wood is really the best way to go Cutting boards are the quickest way to ruin a knife so steer clear of fancy-looking glass or granite boards mdash they are the antagonists of our story

Itrsquos also not a bad idea to have a knife honer on hand As a reminder (or for

those who had no idea what that random rod in the kitchen was used for) honers are for honing not sharpening

ldquoWith use the metal fibres in a knife edge can get bent to one side or another All yoursquore doing with honing is straightening those fibres back outrdquo Johnson from The Cookbook Co explained ldquoSharpening means yoursquore actually removing material and grinding the metal down to a finer edgerdquo

Johnson added that while you can sharpen at home she always recommends getting your knives sharpened professionally at least once a year depending on how much theyare used

Before you go back to making your lazy-day grilled cheese sandwich or that complex stew yoursquove spent hours on we just want to remind you of whatrsquos called ldquothe pinch griprdquo

Not to sound snobbish but grabbing a knife by the handle and hacking away is poor form Use your thumb and index finger to grasp the blade and then wrap your remaining fingers under the bolster of the knife Shape your other hand into a claw to protect your fingertips from accidentally getting lopped off firmly grasp the object to be cut and slice away

If this knowledge was present in the 17th century perhaps old King Louis XIV would be tipping his crown to more cooks not kitchen knife combatants

25

Times Are A Changing Unexpected Take-Outs

by LINDA GARSON and DIANA NG photography by INGRID KUENZEL

Therersquos no denying that many of our cityrsquos restaurants are feeling the effects of the current economic downturn fewer people working downtown ndash indeed fewer people working altogether and so looking to save money by eating out less means many bricks and mortar restaurants are having to get creative with ways to fully utilise their kitchens and staff

High rents exacerbate the situation so itrsquos time for Calgary restaurateurs to think outside the box and proving to be the innovative entrepreneurs that wersquore known for many are diversifying their offerings to include take-out options both raw and cooked

Catch amp The Oyster Bar launched their ldquoBuy Catchrdquo program where you can pick up fresh Ocean Wise seafood to take home and cook (complete with recipes) along with house-made clam chowder and sauces nearly two years ago There are big savings to be had over dining in with no costs for linen or staff and no expectation to tip

Here are four Calgary eateries also getting clever with take-out

programs that are not widely publicised - and may

open a few eyes

26

Centini Restaurant

Itrsquos not a cookie cutter program but the magic of Centinirsquos take-out is that you can ask the kitchen for ideas of what you should have for dinner People even text the servers for suggestions and to order Loyal customers mostly busy businessmen were asking if they catered but without the staff for such a service Centini started offering to prepare dishes for them to cook themselves

Now you can get your favourite restaurant dishes from rack of lamb with red wine demi-glace AAA Alberta beef tenderloin with Gorgonzola pan sauce and sea bass with ginger cream sauce ready to cook at home ldquoWersquore not going to open a bricks and mortar restaurant down south but our food is going thererdquo says Chevonne Centini Theyrsquore seeing pick-ups such as for people stuck at home with a new baby and even 40 people for a funeral

Boxwood

Itrsquos hard to believe that the quality of food coming from the sister restaurant to River Cafe can be had at home and we are not talking about leftovers When

People take home uncooked homemade pasta with sauce separately and even bread dough and often freeze it to cook later or pick up on a Friday evening so everything is prepared ready for Saturday dinner When buying from a restaurant yoursquore getting top quality perfectly trimmed meat everything is done for you - therersquos no shopping

around and even the parsley is chopped And as everything is custom-made all allergies are catered for too

Centini gets fish delivered once or twice every day and it may come as a surprise but with a chef garde manger that spent 15 years in Japan they have customers coming just to take out sushi

you go home to an empty fridge it feels like the only options you have are fast food or pizza Not so

Boxwoodrsquos fresh and seasonal fare is also available to take home While you wonrsquot

be able to enjoy the quaint atmosphere of the restaurant you can order anything on the menu for take out with its special offering being the whole rotisserie free-range chicken which serves two to four people for $40

Many bricks and mortar restaurants are

having to get creative with ways to fully utilise their

kitchens and staff

You will need to call a few hours ahead (the website states before 200 pm) for enough notice for the chicken but for the rest of the selection like its soups and sandwiches you can simply look up the menu online and call to place an order For a perfect night in may we suggest starting with its bison tartare then moving onto the porchetta and another main before finishing off the meal with a slice of pie

27

Gaucho

For most people the elaborate setup of Brazilian barbecue is one of its biggest attractions You may not know this and while you may not be able to take home the lively decor of Gaucho you can actually take the meal home

The spit packed tightly with freshly roasted meats the sign at the table that signals yoursquore ready for more and the roasted and caramelized pineapple that tops off the meal all contribute to the atmosphere but if all you want are the meats and sides for a hefty dinner you can certainly order the meal as a take-out

Order any of the four options (top sirloin pork loin chicken wings or mild sausage) and add three sides from the list of eight which includes a variety of salads black bean stew and rice And because you canrsquot just have one kind of meat when it comes to Brazilian barbecue you can choose additional

Safari Grill

The marinated thinly sliced BBQ short beef ribs at Safari Grill are already a must-have for those in the know but we suspect even regulars will be surprised to discover that you can pick

up uncooked ribs with your choice of seven marinades to take home and BBQ yourself

With none of the associated costs of dining in $65 buys you enough ribs for 10 people and customers actually drive

meats for $4 each Finally choose the sauce yoursquod like to accompany your meal Orders for over five people will come in a big white box and individual

orders come will in regular take-out containers For big parties do call a few hours ahead All you need to make at home is the caipirinha

from Saskatchewan to take away 10-15 lb bags of these uncooked marinated ribs Some people call and ask for them to be marinated and frozen in 5 lb bags to enjoy later as just 5-7 minutes each side on a high flame has the raw ribs ready to eat

And itrsquos not only ribs that people BBQ at home Mishkaki are skewers of marinated chicken beef and prawns and for as little as $3 each you can have a very inexpensive BBQ feast Marinated raw lamb chops are also available or ask for Samaki - a marinated whole tilapia that comes with a basting sauce to brush on You can even get uncooked samosas to cook in your oven at home

All Safari Grillrsquos regular menu can be ordered for take-out but there is no published price list for uncooked dishes so people call to order and ask - but when yoursquore picking up look out for the new jars of house-made mango and lemon pickles

28

Step By Step Go Nuts With Homemade Nutella And Waffles story and photography by NATALIE FINDLAY

There are many nutritional benefits packed into these small filberts They are rich in dietary fibre packed with folate an excellent source of vitamin E and contain mono-unsaturated fatty acids that

can help lower bad cholesterol and raise good cholesterol By making your own Nutella at home you can control the amount of sugar that is added making this delicious spread basicallyhellip a health food

Hazelnuts have a tried and true following for taking the lead role in the chocolate spread Nutella This long-standing love affair has lasted simply because they add a distinct but subtle flavour to the chocolate Truly a match that is better together than apart

These delicious and super-easy waffles make a great base for your homemade Nutella With the addition of ground hazelnuts to the batter you can deepen the hazelnut flavour and pack in more health benefits

Waffles with raspberries and white chocolate spread

29

Natalie is a freelance writer photographer and pastry chef A graduate of Cordon Bleursquos pastry program she manages her own business too to create custom-made cakes

Using the same waffle recipe from above and switching out the mashed banana and adding frac12 a medium orange ndash juice and zest ndash to the batter you have a delicious orange waffle that will highlight the white chocolate hazelnut spread recipe below

Homemade White Chocolate Hazelnut Spread Makes 1frac12 cups

1frac12 cups (200 g) whole hazelnutsfrac12 cup (70 g) icing sugar2 Tbs (30 mL) canola oil1 tsp (5 mL) vanilla extract1 cup (250g) white chocolate

Follow directions for Homemade Nutella and add the melted white chocolate at the end Pulse to combine

Macerated Raspberries with Orange Serves 6

250 g fresh raspberriesfrac12 medium orange zest and juice1 Tbs icing sugarfrac12 tsp vanilla extract

Add all ingredients into a medium bowl and stir to combine Let sit for about 1 hour

Serve your warm waffles topped with your white chocolate homemade hazelnut spread macerated berries and a dollop of whipped cream or ice cream

Note Homemade Nutella has more texture than store bought and will last around 1 month in the fridge Waffles can be made ahead and frozen Thaw and reheat in the waffle maker or the oven

Banana Fruit compoteMakes enough for 6

3 ripe bananas peeled sliced into rounds2 Tbs (30 g) butter2 Tbs (30 g) brown sugar1frac12 tsp (8 mL) vanilla extract1frac12 tsp (8 mL) bourbon

1 Add butter and sugar to a sauteacute pan over medium heat As they melt stir to combine

2 Add vanilla and bourbon than add sliced bananas and sauteacute until warmed through

Serve your warm waffles topped with your homemade hazelnut spread sauteacuteed bananas and a dollop of whipped cream or ice cream

Homemade Nutella Makes 1frac12 cups

1frac12 cups (200 g) whole hazelnutsfrac34 cup (100g) icing sugar3 Tbs (45 mL) canola oilfrac14 cup (30 g) cocoa powder1 tsp (5 mL) vanilla extract

1 Toast hazelnuts on a baking pan in a preheated 350ordm F oven for 10 - 15 minutes Keep an eye on them to make sure they donrsquot start to burn Remove from oven and let cool to the touch

2 Wrap the nuts in a kitchen towel and rub together to remove the skins This should remove most of the skins

3 Place skinless hazelnuts in a food processor on high Process the nuts until they form a smooth paste and the oils start to separate (about 5 minutes) scraping the bowl often

4 Add the icing sugar cocoa powder vanilla and canola oil to the food processor and process until fully incorporated scraping bowl of processor as needed (about 2 minutes)

Hazelnut Banana WafflesMakes 6

frac12 cup (80 g) all purpose flour1 tsp baking powderfrac12 tsp baking sodaPinch sea salt1 Tbs (15 g) icing sugar1 Tbs (10 g) ground hazelnuts6 grates whole nutmeg1 tsp ground cinnamonfrac12 cup (125 mL) buttermilk1 egg yolk2 Tbs (30 g) butter meltedfrac12 small banana peeled and mashed1 egg white

1 Sift together all dry ingredients (except the ground hazelnuts) in a medium bowl Add the ground hazelnuts and combine

2 Mash the half banana in a small bowl with a fork Add the egg buttermilk and melted butter

3 Whisk the egg white to stiff peaks

4 Whisk the wet ingredients into the dry and fold the egg white into the mixture

5 Follow the directions for your waffle pan to cook waffles for around 5 minutes or until cooked through

Note Remember to bring the waffle pan up to temperature in between each batch of waffles

Hazelnut Banana Waffles with Nutella

30

Citrus Beer Friendsby DAVID NUTTALL

This is when the taste andor aroma of a beer can remind the drinker of anything from an orange drink or lemonade to grapefruit soda There are several ways to achieve this character and these beers are becoming more and more popular every day

Hops provide the bitterness in beer and out of the literally hundreds of varieties a few impart citrus notes into the aroma and flavour Cascade and Citra are examples of two of the most popular hops used in several styles of beer most notably the American IPA or India Pale Ale Cascade hops have been around for over 40 years and it is the single most popular hop used by the American craft brewing industry It provides a floralspicy character often reminiscent of grapefruit

Citrarsquos name leaves no guessing as to its attributes A relative newcomer this cross breed of UK German and US hop varieties has been around for less than a decade but it is already an extremely popular hop for imparting

One of the great things about beer is its diversity It can come in a myriad of colours and also a wide variety of flavours citrus being one of the most distinct

Dave Nuttall has been in the liquor and event business forever He is a qualified beer judge and ownerpresident of Epicurean Calgary at epicureancalgarycom for ten years

citrus and tropical fruit characteristics to a beer

It has proven very versatile and appears in several beer styles from session ales to IPAs It has also become a favourite hop to use for dry-hopping (adding hops late into the boil) due to the exceptional aromas it produces For even more flavour and aroma craft brewers now commonly enhance these already citrusy IPAs with actual zest peel or juice from citrus fruits to create an IPAFruit Beer hybrid which sells especially well in summer months

Then there is the yeast and many varieties of yeast can produce citrusy esters The unfiltered hefeweizens brewed on both sides of the Atlantic quite often have a lemony flavour Sour beers also showcase the yeast often cultured from Belgian strains

These beers are tart and produce a gamut of flavours many with citrus qualities and some have added fruit - the easiest and most obvious way to create a citrusy beer The Belgians also add different kinds of oranges with spice additions to their wheat ales to create wit beers now emulated all over the world with different citrus (and other) fruits involved in the recipe We also canrsquot forget the radlers which are simply a lager beer mixed with 40-60 fruit juice - often grapefruit or lemonade

Whether itrsquos added fruit the yeast the hops or a combination of all of them citrusy beers are commonplace now Thanks to new hops like Citra and the increasing popularity of wits and sours we can expect this trend to continue

Here are a few local beers with hints of citrus All are also available on tap

Beer comes in a myriad of colours and flavours citrus being one of the

most distinct

Ribstone Creek Great White CombineThis tiny Edgerton Alberta brewery has been knocking it out of the park lately Named after the ubiquitous Alberta summer hailstorm the use of Belgian yeast sweet orange peel and coriander give this beer an orange flavour in the beginning When the four different hop additions kick in it changes more to a sweet lemony flavour This White IPA has a very tropical feel that makes you forget it was made in northern Alberta CSPC +774162 $16 6-pack cans

Wild Rose Cowbell Sour ales are the new Belle of the Ball at craft breweries Often using imported Belgian yeast strains they are tart tangy and wellhellip sour Calgaryrsquos Wild Rose has taken this flavour profile and added kaffir lime leaves This makes the beer more like a refreshing limeade and is less bitter than many of its other sour counterparts CSPC +778093 $17 6-pack bottles

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TICKETS AVAILABLE AT ALBERTABEERFESTIVALSCOM

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Citradelic Single Hop IPA Big Rock BreweryWith breweries in two (soon to be three) provinces Big Rock now has multiple locations to develop new beers This is the first one from their Vancouver brewery and is full of lemongrapefruit flavours and tropical aromas This beer showcases the Citra hop fooling one to think that citrus has been added when itrsquos all thanks to the hop CSPC +778593 $15 6-pack bottles

Alley Kat Main SqueezeWhat started out as a summer seasonal has now become a mainstay of this Edmonton brewery A North American style wheat ale with a 50 wheat and 50 barley mix it has added grapefruit juice but tastes more along the lines of pink grapefruit rather than its more bitter cousin CSPC +733630 $17 6-pack bottles

32

story by RENEE KOHLMAN

Cheesecake is one of those classic desserts that almost everyone loves unless of course you have a dairy allergy then yoursquoll stay far far away from it While it may seem too complicated to make at home I assure you that itrsquos not

Spice it up cheesecake

Sure there are a few steps involved but the key thing to remember is to have your eggs and cream cheese at room temperature For the best crack-free cheesecake itrsquos best to bake it in a water bath It yields a light creamy texture and is well worth the effort Cheesecake always tastes better the next day so bake it the day before you want to serve it Now that wersquove got the basics down itrsquos time to have a little fun with the crust filling and toppings

The Base

The classic graham cracker crust is fine but every now and again itrsquos great to switch things up Try

ndash Grinding up ginger cookies They work especially well for a pumpkin cheesecake

ndash Chocolate cookie crumbs are fantastic for caramel peanut butter and raspberry cheesecakes

ndash Add finely chopped nuts oats or seeds to the cookie crumbs for added texture and taste

The Middle

Therersquos something to be said for a straight up vanilla or chocolate cheesecake but with some fun add-ins they could take your cheesecake to the next level of deliciousness Try

ndash Swirling tahini dulce de leche salted caramel or chocolate fudge sauce into a creamy vanilla filling

ndash Mix in chopped chocolate peanut butter cups to a chocolate filling

ndash Drop fresh berries (raspberries blueberries blackberries) on top of a vanilla filling

ndash Stir in chopped candied ginger dried cherries or cranberries chopped toasted nuts to the filling

ndash Swap some of the cream cheese with ricotta mascarpone cheese or even strained cottage cheese

ndash You can never go wrong with lemon zest in a vanilla cheesecake

Have a little fun with the crust filling

and toppings

33

Apple Crumble CheesecakeMakes about 12-14 servings Total cook and prep time 3 hours (plus overnight chilling)

I love apple crisp and I love cheesecake This recipe is a fine marriage of both and makes a more than acceptable breakfast The base is a crumble of oats and flour the middle is classic cheesecake and itrsquos topped with cinnamon apples and a buttery oat streusel

Crust 2 cups large flake oats1 cup all purpose flour cup packed brown sugarfrac34 cup butter meltedfrac12 tsp salt

Cheesecake Layer3 - 225 g packages cream cheese at room temperature cup granulated sugar1 tsp (5 mL) vanilla3 large eggs at room temperature cup (80 mL) whipping cream

Apple Layer2 apples peeled cored and sliced about 3-4 mm thick1 tsp ground cinnamonfrac12 tsp salt

Streusel Layer1 cup large flake oatsfrac12 cup all-purpose flourfrac12 cup brown sugarfrac12 cup butter softened1 tsp ground cinnamon

Preheat the oven to 375ordm F

1 Butter the bottom and sides of a 9-inch springform pan with sides that are at least 7 cm high Wrap the bottom of the pan in aluminum foil so it comes at least halfway up the sides

2 Combine the crust ingredients in a large bowl Press the crust evenly into the pan and place on a baking sheet Bake for 10 minutes Remove from oven and let it cool on a wire rack

3 Reduce heat to 325ordm F Put a kettle of water on to boil Have a large roasting pan close by

4 Using a stand mixer with a paddle attachment beat the cream cheese at medium speed for 4 minutes scraping down the sides once or twice until it is soft and creamy With the mixer still running add the sugar and beat for another 4 minutes scraping down the sides of the bowl at least twice Beat in the vanilla Add the eggs one at a time beating for 1 minute after each addition and scraping the bowl Reduce speed to low and add the whipping cream

5 Toss the sliced apples with the cinnamon and salt in a small bowl Combine all of the streusel ingredients in a medium bowl and mix well

6 Place the springform pan in the roasting pan Give the cheesecake batter a good stir and pour it on top of the crust Arrange the apples on top and sprinkle the streusel on top of the apples

7 Place in the oven on the middle rack and pour the hot water into the roasting pan so it comes halfway up the sides of the springform pan

8 Bake the cheesecake for 1frac12 hours Turn off the heat prop open the oven door and let the cheesecake hang inside for another hour

9 Carefully remove from the oven and take out the cheesecake from the hot water bath Remove the foil and let the cheesecake come to room temperature on a wire rack Cover the top lightly and refrigerate for at least 4 hours but overnight is best The next day remove the sides of the pan and serve the cake

Renee is a food writer and pastry chef living in beautiful Saskatoon Saskatchewan Her columns appear in The Saskatoon StarPhoenix and her desserts can be enjoyed at Riverside Country Club Also check out her blog wwwsweetsugarbeancom

The Toppings

Cheesecake with no fun toppings is like a salad with no dressing it just doesnrsquot reach its full flavour potential Try

ndash Salted caramel roasted strawberry sauce or warm chocolate sauce

ndash A rhubarbcardamom compote is divine on top of vanilla cheesecake kissed with a bit of lemon zest Cherry compote is divine with chocolate cheesecake

ndash Have a favourite jam Melt it down with a tiny bit of water and drizzle it on top of your favourite cheesecake

ndash Candied nuts and citrus rind chocolate shavings even crumbled cookies are a fun way to add texture to the cheesecake

ndash Never underestimate the power of fresh seasonal berries and a well-made cheesecakeMacerate them in a little sugar and minced mint or basil and they make a lovely topping Donrsquot forget the whipped cream

34

Think about that for a moment and let that sink in like a cherry in your drink

So how old is ice in bars Well thatrsquos a whole story on its own however the Old Fashioned has been talked about in one form or another since the beginning of the 19th Century The first appearance of this classic cocktail was in the Balance and Columbian Repository newspaper in 1806 as such ldquoA stimulating liquor composed of spirits of any kind sugar water and bittersrdquo

The Old FashionedAn Iconic Drink That Has Stood The Test Of Time

by BRICE PERESSINI

Sohelliphow old is the Old Fashioned The Old Fashioned is as old as ice in bars

When you follow these instructions and put this finely-crafted cocktail into your hand swirl around the ice gaze through the caramel-coloured liquid in the glass and contemplate all that has gone into it you can rest assured you are holding a drink that has delighted taste buds for generations The Old Fashioned however has not always been held in high regard There was a time not too long ago where this fine concoction was an unbalanced fruity watered-down pale imitation of itself More recently

there has been a renaissance involved with this invigorating intoxicant and you can and should expect a proper cocktail when it is ordered at a fine establishment

When this drink is properly prepared it should be in perfect balance (as any proper drink should be) The sweetness of the sugar should not cover the flavour of the bourbon and the bitters should add to not overpower the flavour of the whiskey When the Old Fashioned is well made it is as close to cocktail perfection as a sophisticated patron could expect

Befriend a bespoke barkeep at an upstanding establishment and you will be in trusted hands If you find yourself at home and wanting for a nightcap look no further than the Old Fashioned

Enjoy friends

Old Fashioned Recipe

2 oz Buffalo Trace Bourbon (or your personal favourite)4 dashes Angostura Aromatic Bitters1 raw sugar cube

Muddle the sugar and bitters together with a touch of warm water in a rocks glass Add the bourbon then add ice Stir and garnish with an orange peel and cherry (optional)

Brice is a competition cocktail bartender who plies his trade behind the wood at Chefbar Whisk(e)y is his poison Neat

35

Shoulder Season Wines

by JACLYN ADOMEIT

Wines For Cool Weather

Refreshing white wines match with sunny patios and hot days while bold tannic red wines earn their keep by a fireplace on a winter night Common sense But what about the shoulder season What if yoursquore eating sea bass on a rainy spring day Or sipping wine on a patio during an uncommonly warm April afternoon

Photograph courtesy Tom Firth

36

Wine not only pairs with food but with temperatures and seasons A bright sauvignon blanc can taste flat and acidic on a cold night at no fault of the wine or the drinker Some white wines are other-worldly at the vineyard tasting room in the summer but fall flat when you pull them out for dinner guests in the winter

The change in taste is likely due to a number of factors Anatomically it is your sinus cavities creating the change Higher atmospheric pressures allow your nose to pick out subtle aromas while lower pressures bring out a winersquos acidity and harsh tannins CO2 degasses from liquid at low pressure leaving wines dull and flat too

Serving temperature can greatly affect a winersquos aromatics white wines chilled to near-freezing have dull aromas (Tip allow the bottle a half hour on the counter before popping the cork This will allow the aromatics to warm up enhancing the flavour)

Lastly your own palate will be partial to different flavours depending on sun snow wind and sleet but as a rule of thumb higher alcohol white wines (approximately 13 percent or more) will warm the soul and pair best with cooler weather

Here are some wine selections to go for when it is not too hot and not too cold so you can choose a pairing thatrsquos just right

Fiano

Yoursquoll notice that many of the best white wines for cold weather are grown in hot places Hot climates mean a longer growing season more sugar which leads to higher alcohol and often more robust and tropical flavours All of this is true for fiano - seldom grown outside of Campania in southern Italy Fiano produces age-worthy wines which are rich nutty and delicious

Feudi Di San Gregorio 2014 Campania Fiano di Avellino Italy A beautiful floral bouquet with candied lemon followed by honey-coated hazelnuts on the palate Worth cellaring for a few seasons The perfect dance partner for poultry CSPC +708589 $33

Viognier

Viognier is a white varietal that is best consumed at slightly higher temperatures A chilly glass of viognier will leave you with acid maybe oak and not much else Allow it to warm and you may experience peach pear and toasted almond

Traditionally grown in the warm south of France viognier is often a higher alcohol white wine with rich tropical flavours The heat of the alcohol with tropical flavours and lower acid makes viognier the perfect wine to sip while watching a late spring snowfall

Paul Mas 2014 Languedoc-Roussillon Viognier France Brimming with apricot almond lemon and ripe peach Contains hints of warming oak Pair with something savoury baked brie or spinach-filled puff pastry CSPC + 740978 $17

Dry Roseacute

There is so much more to be had from roseacute than white zinfandel And no itrsquos not just a mix of red and white wine The best roseacute is made from red skinned grapes that only sit on their skins for up to a day and a half to borrow colour and flavour then are fermented and processed

Refined examples of roseacute wines are often dry and have deep aromas of red fruits mild tannins and are savoury instead of sweet The French and Spanish craft great examples of dry roseacutes that are either a single varietal or a blend of grapes such as mourvegravedre grenache syrah or tempranillo

Muga Roseacute 2014 Rioja Grenache Viura and Tempranillo Spain A tamed Rioja Orange blossom woven together with strawberry and a palate of cherry and savoury soft cheese Ideal for charcuterie CSPC + 710261 $16

Orange Wine

Never heard of orange wine A commercial demand for natural wines has fostered a resurgence in ancient wine making practices While roseacute wines are reds that have been produced using white wine making practices orange wines are created from white grapes submitted to maceration and allowed to sit on the skins before fermentation the same practice employed in red winemaking

Unlike any white you have tasted orange wines are full-bodied have mild tannins and deep flavours - the characteristics that allow red wines to bring warmth to cool nights A must try for any wine buff

Allow the bottle a half hour on the counter

before popping the cork

The Bicicleta wines are characterized by their fruity expression and for offering more than

the traditional strains a clear example of this range`s innovation style and creativity

Cono Sur Vineyards amp Winery ConoSurVineyards ConoSurWinesconosurcom

The brewhouse at Wild Rose

Jaclynrsquos first passion was winemaking Shersquos worked in vineyards cellars and restaurants Currently she is a writer who daylights as an environmental engineer She believes that a good life like a good wine is not complete without balance

Nichol 2013 Naramata Pinot Gris Canada A Canadian example of orange wine with backbone Flavours of caramel apple roast nuts orange rind and peach CSPC +504159 $31

Oaked chardonnay

In and out with popular palates oak and chardonnay have been partners for a long time Oak paired with chardonnay can bring out butter richness toasted vanilla tree fruit and in the best examples shimmering minerality That is because oak aging is often accompanied by a malolactic fermentation process that smooths out rigid acids into lactic acid - the acid found in milk

Chardonnay is a grape of many talents and encounters a great diversity of production styles It is oaked examples that pair best with pensive rainy days They are full-bodied warming and complex

Wente Morning Fog 2014 Livermore Valley (California) Chardonnay USA Half oak-aged and malolactic-fermented half crisp and fresh this chardonnay brings together green apple vanilla and toasted oak A friend to cream sauce and roast chicken CSPC +175430 $18

In a province of mutable weather let your wine choices be as varied as the ever changing winds Cheers and herersquos to refined full-bodied cool-weather wines

38

Once yoursquore done with your magazine cover shoot like we did this month or prepping for dinner and have all of those odds and ends just sitting on the cutting board - you know carrot ends onion skins tips of celery stalks you get the point - donrsquot toss lsquoem

Instead place them into a large ziploc bag and straight into the freezer After a couple of weeks yoursquoll likely have four full freezer bags of vegetable bits ready to be turned into broth and herersquos how you do it

Making a big batch of vegetable broth doesnrsquot always mean a trip to the grocery store All you need to do is save those scraps This is a handy trick I learned years ago courtesy of Bon Appetit

No-Waste Vegetable Broth

by DAN CLAPSON

Odds And Ends BrothYields 8 cups (2 L)

12 cups (3 L) water4 full ziploc bags of vegetable trimmings1 yellow onion quartered4 cloves garlicAromatics of choice (I usually toss a couple of rosemary and thyme sprigs in there)To taste Salt and pepper

1 Place all ingredients in a large pot and bring to a boil on medium-high heat

2 Reduce to medium heat and let simmer uncovered for 1frac12 hours

3 Strain season to taste with salt and pepper and use as desired

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buck-a-shuck oysters

$1 oysters every night

9 pm - close Sunday-thursday 11 pm - close friday amp saturday

40

Salentein 2012 Reserve Chardonnay Uco Valley Argentina

Very very enjoyable chardonnay blowing me away with complexity varietal character and fine balance between oak lees and fruit Toffee baked apple tangerine and a little almond on the nose lead into silkily textured wine in the mouth Top shelf chardonnay that might be great with lobster tails mussels or poultry Around $20 CSPC +779479

Rutini 2013 Cabernet Malbec Mendoza Argentina

An exceptionally well put together blend - if you want rich berry fruits lots of body but maybe not tons of varietal characters from the individual components Lifted and bright fruits make for a very enjoyable glass Simply perfect for your next barbecue a roast or just chilling out with friends and family $26-30 CSPC +776822

Vinecol 2014 Organic Malbec Mendoza Argentina Fair Trade organic and vegan along with a good price is it still good Piles of fresh fruits (think smashed raspberries) with plenty of spice and soft herb-leaf aromas There are plenty of malbec flavours on the palate too Good for any day of the week with just a little tension between fruit tannin and acid it might be best with pub style burgers pulled pork or sausages About $16 CSPC +755296

Argentina is so much more than malbec While such a noble grape has found its best home in the high altitude vineyards of Argentina there is a lot going on with other grapes as well

Making The Case For Argentina

by TOM FIRTH

This massive country nestled up against the Andes mountains has a range of growing conditions suited to a number of grapes From Salta in the north to Patagonia in the south plenty of interesting wines are available here - many reasonably priced and of excellent quality So yes there are some

malbecs on these pages but please do try some of the other grapes and blends coming from Argentina too

Be sure to crack open a bottle of malbec on ldquoWorld Malbec Dayrdquo April 17 - who knows it might be nice enough to barbecue too

Photograph courtesy Tom Firth

41

Manos Negras 2011 Stone Soil Select Mendoza Argentina Quite new to the market this is a pretty enjoyable version of Argentinarsquos flagship grape Loads of blue fruit and raspberries with spices galore and a little compost Rich flavours lead to a lengthy spicy finish Yes please Bring to a barbecue if you can $21 CSPC +630541

Zuccardi 2012 Zeta Mendoza Argentina

A malbec-cabernet sauvignon blend that is also a blend of two different Mendoza appellations La Consulta and Gualtallary Deep and abundant fruit aromas with liquorice root and a touch of blueberry preserves Excellent balance of flavours on the palate too with the right structure and tannin for aging if desired Enjoy with a prime rib or even meaty pasta dishes or game $50-52 CSPC +740270

Zuccardi 2012 ldquoEmmardquo Bonarda Mendoza Argentina

In my humble opinion one of the finest bonardas coming out of Argentina Notes of coffee bean and espresso complement cherry and blackberry fruits with healthy balanced tannins to stand up to the tart fruits Delicious for sure enjoy at your next barbecue $40 CSPC +758407

Luigi Bosca 2011 Cabernet-Malbec Mendoza Argentina

A wonderfully earthy and savoury blend with plenty of tobacco spice leather and yes lots of fruit too The earthy flavours work well with the big dark chocolate flavours and weighty tannins Drink now or through 2020 or so - with a steak naturally $22-24 CSPC +766010

Trivento 2013 Golden Reserve Malbec Lujan de Cuyo Argentina While there is a trend to see a lot of premium malbecs move away from oak presence this one is a bold smooth and delicious example that is seeing about a year of oak All those berry fruits plums and herb notes malbec is known for along with the smoothness that only oak brings Kick back relax maybe cook up some steaks - enjoy About $24 CSPC +711402

Trivento 2014 Malbec Reserve Mendoza Argentina Nearly unbeatable for good malbec at a great price itrsquos rich and chocolatey on the nose with big fruits and oak tones too Mild garrigue notes or dried herb flavours with plenty of fruit and tannins - still showing a fine sense of balance Enjoy with beef $14 CSPC +730714

Luigi Bosca 2011 De Sangre Mendoza Argentina A blend of cabernet sauvignon merlot and syrah that manages to pull out the best of each varietal Earthy and slightly smoky with good fruits and plenty of versatility Tannins are well-placed against the fruits with a long smooth finish Irsquove been a fan of this wine year after year Good to keep a couple on hand in the cellar About $29 CSPC +745106

Salentein 2012 Numina Gran Corte Uco Valley Argentina A malbec-dominated Bordeaux blend this stunner is all about ripe fruits cedar pepper cherries and plum with a little tealeaf and the right amount of tannins Very very well balanced and like any great wine think about some food to go with it Beef tenderloin slow cooked meats or maybe at your next asadohellip About $40 CSPC +764706

Colonia Las Liebres 2013 Bonarda Mendoza Argentina Bear with me here - a fine bonarda with plenty of earthy smoky aromas leading to rubber charred cherries and cocoa Some pretty prominent tannins to be found as well but wow does it all come together A wine that just begs for duck with cranberries or maybe some kebabshellip$20 CSPC +773381

42

Open That Bottleby LINDA GARSON photography by INGRID KUENZEL

ldquoIf you work in a place and yoursquore miserable I donrsquot know if there is a dollar amount that can be attached to that The work that yoursquore doing has to be rewarding and challengingrdquo says Karen KhoGrowing up in Niagara Falls in a Philippino SpanishChinese family Kho was surrounded by food and drinks with an open door policy that has had a huge influence on the person she is today - an

entertainer who likes to make people feel welcome ldquoMy parents wanted me to be a lawyer there was definitely an encouragement to use my voice for goodrdquo she explains ldquoAnd I still think I help people but in a different way a very social wayrdquo

Graduating Western University with a political science degree in 2000 Kho spent a year travelling and living in Australia before taking a leap of faith and moving to Calgary Here she studied wine with the International Sommeliers Guild and WSET but says her real education was a job she adored working in the wine trade at BIN 905 in tandem with running wine programs for CRMR restaurants It was only when the opportunity came to create the wine program at Vin Room six years later that Kho leapt at the challenge of a new idea for the city and spent four happy years there

Eventually she and her partner decided to stretch their wings and went to Vancouver where Kho embarked on a six-month culinary course at the Pacific Institute of Culinary Arts ticking off another box on her bucket list ldquoI wanted a greater understanding of technique in the kitchen and I wanted an understanding of what service on a very basic level would look like if I ever owned my own place and ever had to be the person who filled inrdquo she says ldquoI feel if I was ever in a place that needed someone to chop onions Irsquom your womanrdquo she laughs

A year later the pair came back with the idea of eventually opening their own business in Calgary ldquoThe support we get from this community is heartfelt and this is a city of opportunity People with the right concept are seeing a lot of great success itrsquos still our game planrdquo she says Meanwhile Kho applied only to Teatro where she is now Group Service Director

ldquoI wanted to work at a place that had a challenging wine program and had a level of service with high expectations and where professional service teams

applyrdquo she says ldquoItrsquos pretty romantic to work for a company that has been built on a foundation of service Successful businesses in the restaurant industry get the grand picture which is the moments that yoursquore creating for people and I like to be a part of thatrdquo she adds

So what bottle is Kho saving for a special occasion

Paying homage to her time at BIN 905 Kho explains ldquoI have a bottle of 1996 Chateau Mouton Rothschild which was given to me with some very kind words on my last day at BIN Irsquove always just appreciated my time there it was where I learned the vernacular of wine and itrsquos my first job where I really saw the benefits of serving people with intentionrdquo She continues ldquoI always see it thankfully as the stepping-stone to a broader wine profession and eventually to the position that I have now It was given to me by very close friends that Irsquom still friends with to this dayrdquo

And when is she planning to open the wine

ldquoWhen (partner) Dave and I open our own restaurantrdquo Kho says This isnrsquot something that something that will happen tomorrow but fortunately the wine will last until theyrsquore ready

Charcoal-grilled prime cutsHand-muddled caipirinhas50+ salad bar optionsThree distinct private rooms

pampasteakhousecomcalgary

521 10 Avenue SWCalgary AB

(587) 354-3441

See this weekrsquos promotion

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15

Robyn is a public relations professional and occasional writer with a passion for food and beverages Despite city hopping from her home in Calgary to Anchorage AK you can still find her on Twitter robynalana

Braised Brisket with Carrot Puree and Napa Cabbage Serves 4

900 ndash 1125 g brisket5 carrots peeled and sliced 12-16 baby potatoes 1 head of Napa cabbage julienned5 parsnips peeled and sliced 2 tomatoes quartered2 yellow onions quartered1 yellow onion thinly sliced6 sprigs of thyme4 sprigs of rosemary 6 whole cloves of garlic3-4 Tbs butter1 Tbs black peppercornsCanola oil4 cups (1 L) beef stock or water1 cup (240 mL) of milkHoney to tasteSalt and pepper 1 Season brisket liberally with salt and pepper (you can braise whole or cut it into smaller chunks)

2 In a large sauteacute pan heat canola oil until it has reached its smoking point Sear the meat on all sides until golden brown and caramelized

3 Remove from pan and place in a large ovenproof baking dish covering with beef stock (or water) Add peppercorns two sprigs of rosemary 4 sprigs of thyme whole garlic tomatoes and the quartered onions

4 Cover with tin foil and braise for approximately for 3-3frac12 hours at 325ordm F or until fork tender

5 Remove from the braising juices spoon off any excess fat and strain juices into a saucepot reduce on a medium heat until a nice thick sauce has formed

6 For carrot puree add two tablespoons of butter in a heavy bottomed saucepan and sauteacute sliced onion and diced carrots together over medium heat Yoursquore not looking to brown the vegetables but rather simmer in the butter

7 After 10 minutes cover the mixture with milk add 2 sprigs of thyme and season with salt Simmer until soft and tender

8 Strain the carrots and reserve the milk throw out the thyme sprigs Place the carrots and onions in a blender and slowly add the milk until a nice puree is achieved check seasoning and thickness and adjust if necessary Set aside 9 Sauteacute julienned cabbage in a tablespoon of butter season with salt and add 2 tablespoons of water Reduce heat and cook for 5 minutes stirring frequently

ldquoI recommend proper love attention and care to ensure you keep this tool functioning for a

very long timerdquo

10 Toss sliced carrots and parsnips with honey chopped rosemary and thyme season with salt and pepper and roast in the oven for an hour at 325ordm F or until tender 11 Boil the baby potatoes in heavily salted water until fork tender

12 To serve set up 4 plates and spoon carrot puree on the bottom of the plate in a circle Arrange potatoes carrots and parsnips around the plate place Napa cabbage in the middle and place brisket on top Spoon the reduced braising liquid over the meat

16

As Nemeth chats with customers other vendors and friends who stop by her enthusiastic greetings and joyous laughter are hard to ignore mdash this is a woman who clearly likes people In fact she loves them Warm hearty and full of surprises the words used to describe Nemethrsquos personality can just as easily be used to describe her soup

The Primal Soup Co is a fairly new entity mdash the frozen containers of soup with flavours like Mango Butternut Squash Spinach Artichoke and Feta and Thai Coconut Chicken first showed up at the Market on MacLeod (then the

Going To MarketPrimal Soup Company Finds Its Homeby ELIZABETH CHORNEY-BOOTH photography by INGRID KUENZEL

If you happen to spy Margaret Nemeth at one of her Primal Soup Company booths at the Crossroads Market or the Market on MacLeod yoursquoll immediately see that the energetic atmosphere of a Farmersrsquo Market suits her

Kingsland Farmersrsquo Market) in 2011 mdash but Nemeth is not new to the food and beverage game

Long-time Calgarians may recognize the Primal name and the taste of Nemethrsquos homemade soups from the now defunct Primal Grounds Cappuccino Bar and Eatery in Killarney which Nemeth owned and ran from 1996 through to 2010

Nemeth opened that business after a career in oil and gas and the stand-alone cafeacute was a solid success for her Not only did it serve up great coffee Nemeth quickly made a name for herself with her homemade soup creations All homemade and gluten-free (due to Nemethrsquos own dietary restrictions) Primal Grounds was catering to people with gluten intolerances long before it became fashionable

ldquoWe were pioneers and it was so much funrdquo Nemeth says ldquoThere were lots of ups and downs but it was a good liferdquo

ldquoWhen yoursquore in a market you have to give people reasons to stoprdquo

Margaret Nemeth

17

Nemeth sold the cafeacute when a real estate developer made her an offer she couldnrsquot refuse but she still felt the urge to be around people and feed them So she set up shop in the markets - first the Market on MacLeod and then in January of 2015 she opened a stall in the rebranded Crossroads Market

Elizabeth Chorney-Booth is a Calgary-based writer and co-founderco-editor of RollingSpooncom and Wapawekkacom She enjoys exploring the connection between music and food through interviews with musicians and chefs

Primal Soup also sells lunch items like gourmet macaroni and cheese sandwiches and homemade pies and pastries so that market wanderers can stop by the stall and grab a full lunch while perusing the soup cooler for something to take home for a future meal

ldquoWhen yoursquore in a market you have to give people reasons to stoprdquo Nemeth says ldquoSo we offer things to go with the soup which also gives them ideas for what they can do at home Or sometimes theyrsquoll come for a sandwich and then theyrsquoll look at the soups You have to give people reasons to be in this spacerdquo

ldquoWe were pioneers and it was so much funrdquo

Whatever Nemeth is doing it seems to be working Between the two farmersrsquo markets and specialty retailers like the Market on 17th Sunnyside Market and SPUD delivery boxes Primal Soup Co sells over 1000 containers of soup every week Nemeth develops the recipes herself but has hired a full-time chef to keep up with the demand Personality and strategic stall locations in busy farmersrsquo markets alone isnrsquot enough to move that kind of volume of soup mdash while Nemeth has made smart business decisions over the course of Primalrsquos various incarnations the key to her success really lies in the product itself Everything is made from scratch without the aid of pre-bought soup bases and Nemeth uses seasonal ingredients (only 20 to 30 of her 50 soup varieties are ever available at any given time) supporting her neighbours at the markets when possible Her meat stocks are built from organic chicken bones Wintersrsquo turkey carcasses and duck bones from fellow market vendor Green Eggs and Ham to build a rich and delicious broth ldquoI layer my soupsrdquo Nemeth says ldquoI donrsquot just throw everything in the pot together And there has to be a twist in every one There has to be something

that you donrsquot expect mdash a surprise in every boxrdquo

To bring things full circle Nemeth has a new venture that just opened kitty corner to her Primal Soup stall in the Crossroads Market a beautiful and shiny new Primal Grounds coffee location With a long counter for people to sit at for as long as they like (Nemeth jokes that itrsquos the perfect place for bored spouses to sit while their partners shop the market) itrsquos an updated nod to what got Primal Soup started in the first place

And itrsquos also a testament to Nemethrsquos dedication to market life mdash the lack of control she has over her own hours and some other aspects arenrsquot perfect but the busyness the proximity to like-minded vendors and most of all the people she gets to interact with on a constant basis has put Nemeth exactly where she belongs ldquoYoursquore only as strong as the market is collectivelyrdquo she says ldquoItrsquos different than being a restaurant but I have to say itrsquos the funnest thing Irsquove ever donerdquo

ldquoThere has to be something that you donrsquot

expect mdash a surprise in every boxrdquo

18

Soup Kitchenstory and photography by DAN CLAPSON

The fresh hang-up-your-winter-jacket feeling is finally in the air ndash and that my friends is a wonderful thing Gone are the days where wersquove looked forward to spooning into a big bowl of creamy soup or sitting down to some chicken noodle soup to help shake off the winter sniffles These days Irsquom more concerned with light and bright flavours and less calorie-ridden meals

so I wonrsquot look completely undesirable in a swimsuit come June

Here are two great recipes that just happen to be vegan but are bursting with flavour

Serves 5 Total cook time 35 minutes

6 cups (15 L) vegetable broth1 cup (240 mL) white wine1 cup (240 mL) water2 Tbs (30 mL) tomato paste2 cups dry green lentils1 red onion halved and thinly sliced1 small fennel bulb halved and thinly sliced2 tsp (10 mL) maple syrup1 tsp dried oreganofrac12 tsp ground turmericfrac12 tsp chili flakesfrac12 tsp ground cinnamon1 pinch nutmeg2 cups thinly sliced red Swiss chardTo taste salt and pepper

1 Place broth wine water and tomato paste in a large pot and bring to a simmer on medium-high heat Add lentils and cook for 15 minutes

2 Add onion fennel maple syrup and spices and continue to cook for 15 minutes

Spiced Green Lentil and Chard Soup

3 Add Swiss chard and cook until leaves are tender about 2-3 minutes Season to taste with salt and pepper and serve

Dan Clapson is a freelance food writer and columnist in Calgary When hersquos not writing about Canadarsquos amazing culinary scene he is likely listening to 80s rock or 90s boy bands Follow him on twitter dansgoodside

Spinach and Cashew Soup with Poblano and Scallion Salsa

Serves 4 Total cook time 30 minutes not including cashew soak time

Soup1frac12 cups roasted cashews2 cups (500 mL) water4 cups (1 L) vegetable broth4 cups cooked spinach1 Tbs (15 mL) apple cider vinegar1 Tbs (15 mL) maple syrupfrac12 tsp cayenne peppersalt and pepper to tastecashew butter for garnish optional

1 Place cashews and water in a container cover and let sit on counter overnight

2 Combine cashews water and remaining soup ingredients in a blender and pureacutee until very smooth

3 Pour contents of blender through a fine mesh strainer into a medium pot Bring to a simmer on medium-high heat and cook for 15 minutes Season to taste with salt and pepper and keep warm on stove until ready to serve

4 Place a couple of spoonfuls of the salsa into each bowl and ladle soup around it Add a couple of dollops of cashew butter for a little extra richness

Salsa1 large poblano pepper halved and seeds removed1 bunch scallions2 Tbs (30 mL) canola oil2 Tbs fresh mint roughly chopped1 tsp (5 mL) lemon juicefrac12 tsp cane sugarfrac12 tsp chili flakessalt and pepper to taste

1 Preheat oven to 400ordm F

2 Place poblano halves and scallions on a baking sheet drizzle with oil and roast until slightly charred about 15-18 minutes

3 Remove from oven allow to cool slightly then give them a rough chop

4 Add to a bowl with remaining ingredients and toss to combine Season liberally with salt and pepper

20

Photograph courtesy California Wine Institute

Ever since Napa Valley cabernet sauvignons and chardonnays bested their more historic counterparts from Bordeaux and Burgundy in the now-famous Judgment of Paris tasting in 1976 California and its flagship region have carried the torch for the bold dense fruity lushly oaked wines that brought them worldwide fame

Forty years later this sun-drenched style of wines remains both unapologetically enjoyable and wildly popular and Napa is on the bucket list of any devoted wine tourist But as tastes and trends start to evolve away from a focus on power and concentration towards greater elegance and food-friendliness winemakers in California are again taking to the frontier gravitating towards the statersquos physical and climatic extremes to explore new boundaries of flavour and complexity Californiarsquos cooler corners

California Coolby PETER VETSCH

California is a land of frontiers dangling on the edge of the Pacific home of the Gold Rush and epicentre of the New Worldrsquos insurgence onto the global wine scene

are fast becoming its second face in the world of wine

Sonoma County north of San Francisco and just west of Napa is probably Californiarsquos second best-known region almost equally recognized for its cabernets chardonnays and zinfandels The largest subregion in the county taking up almost a third of its total area is the western Sonoma Coast too expansive at 500000 acres to have a distinct identity

However the western border of this appellation a razorrsquos edge straddling the ocean locally known as the ldquotruerdquo Sonoma Coast showcases the regionrsquos true character - extreme viticulture wet cool and always windy at elevations up to 2000 feet balanced on the San Andreas Fault with many vines growing above the fog line and constantly exposed to the throes of the Pacific Pinot noir takes on a unique expression here on low-yielding vines in the cool above the rest of Sonoma offering both remarkable purity of fruit and astonishing acidity and structure

Pinot is also predominant in the relatively new Santa Rita Hills subregion of the Santa Ynez Valley located an hour and a half northwest of Los Angeles and similarly perched right alongside the ocean The maritime influence dominates the microclimate and counteracts the California sun with fog and cool breezes to the point where this coastal spot becomes a near ideal substitute for chilly Burgundy Here the core Burgundian varietals of pinot noir and chardonnay thrive in a particularly striking edgy way

Santa Ynez is the only wine region in the western hemisphere where the arearsquos defining mountain range runs east-west instead of north-south creating a sort of maritime wind tunnel that sucks cold Pacific air eastward This leads to some of the largest diurnal (day to night) temperature shifts in North America and allows inland grapes ripening in the scorching daytime heat to recharge and maintain acidity at night This special geological feature allows a wide range of reds in Santa Ynez to be juicy but still structured bold yet balanced from cabernet and merlot to syrah and grenache

Halfway between the Sonoma Coast to the north and the Santa Rita Hills to the south along yet another coastline

California can comfortably both provide continuity

and defy stereotype

Wine Picks

Peter is a local lawyer by day and wine writer by night maintaining his own wine blog at popandpourca He is always on the lookout for the next way to experience wine and the next good bottle to try

A LITTLE SIBLING RIVALRY NEVER HURT ANYBODY

FOUR SETTINGS ONE PHILOSOPHY crmrcom338 - 17th Avenue SW

c i l a n t ro

747 Lake Bonavista Dr SE113 - 8th Avenue SW 340 - 17th Avenue SW

Sequoia Grove 2012 Cabernet Sauvignon (Napa Valley)Textbook cabernet from Naparsquos heart of Rutherford with deep black fruit mint and cedarhellip and a survivable price tag CSPC +740382 $56

Hartford Court Landrsquos Edge Vineyard Pinot Noir (Sonoma Coast)The ferocity of the Sonoma Coast somehow creates the picture of elegance in this juicy yet delicate pinot CSPC +717210 $60

Domaine de la Cote 2013 Pinot Noir (Sta Rita Hills) Seriously pushes the boundaries picked almost insanely early for low-alcohol herbal pomegranate and rhubarb acidic tension and energy CSPC +761893 $58

Alice May Crosswinds Syrah (Santa Ynez Valley) A syrahviognier Cote Rotie-style co-ferment that matches Cali ripeness with surprising verve and delicacy CSPC +761131 $28

Ridge 2013 Geyserville (Santa Cruz Mountains)This will change your expectations of zinfandel A zin-heavy field blend it combines the best of its mountain altitude and the California sun CSPC +426379 $55

just south of San Jose the wineries of the Santa Cruz Mountains prove again that those seeking to make modern moderate wines in California head both west and up The highest vineyards in Santa Cruz despite being just miles from the ocean are at 2600 feet this significant altitude and the cool Pacific climate results in chiseled wines with controlled ripeness and serious staying power

The region is both expansive and miniscule with only 1500 of its 480000 acres currently planted to grapes and its very-California plantings (cabernet chardonnay pinot noir zinfandel and merlot) all take on an Old World character and rusticity from its rugged terrain and stony mineral-laden soils Despite the challenges associated with growing grapes on a cool rock face Santa Cruz is a state leader in sustainable growing practices

The friendly sunny face of California wine is surely here to stay but Santa Cruz Santa Ynez and the Sonoma Coast are permanent proof that the state is readily capable of more than one expression With its range of climate and terrain California can comfortably both provide continuity and defy stereotype

22

En GardeA Beginnerrsquos Guide To Knives And Their Usesby ANNA BROOKS

Itrsquos difficult to imagine that sharp little number thatrsquos slicing away to the rhythm of your favourite cooking music (or to the beating of child-size fists hungry for dinner) was more often used for combat not chopping carrots

Despite King Louis XIVrsquos decree that the tips of knives be ground down to reduce violence in the mid-1600s kitchen knives still (for quite pointed reasons) make popular murder weapons

But we wonrsquot get into grisly stories of guts and gore here Whether yoursquore a chef extraordinaire or the person whose knife knowledge goes as far as cutting

vegetables with a steak knife there are some things everyone should know about knives

The first major thing we must insist upon is putting down that expensive 14-piece knife set As most knife experts can attest to three main knives can cover almost all the work that a layman cook needs to do in the kitchen

23

Three main knives can cover almost all the work that a layman cook needs

to do in the kitchen

Chefrsquos Knife Your standard knife for mincing and slicing vegetables and meat a chefrsquos knife is typically 20-25 cm long but can range all the way up to 36 cm

Luke Pickett from Knifewear is a sight to see wielding some wickedly sharp

handcrafted Japanese models but despite their carnivorous look Pickett said therersquos really nothing to fear

ldquoThere are a lot of people who are scared of really large knivesrdquo Pickett said ldquoBut having good quality kitchen equipment will make your life easierrdquo

For beginners a standard 20 cm chefrsquos knife (although Pickett said blade length is purely based on personal preference) is best to start with but a Japanese Santoku knife mdash an elegant slightly smaller version of a chefrsquos knife mdash will certainly get the job er meal done

Paring KnifeOn the other side of the knife spectrum is the pocket-sized paring knife (note carrying knives in pockets not recommended)

Regan Johnson assistant manager at The Cookbook Co said besides what the individual using a steak knife to cut everything might think the small intricate work required of a paring knife (such as peeling and trimming) should not be done on a cutting board

ldquoParing is anything you can be doing in the air mdash yoursquore not ever supposed to use a paring knife on a boardrdquo she explained

Johnson added that for someone like herself who does almost as much blade-wielding as a samurai she also recommends a utility knife

which is a hybrid of a chefrsquos knife and a paring knife

ldquoI reach for my utility knife a lotrdquo she said ldquoItrsquos got that shape of a paring knife but is longer Itrsquos just for those things in between that you donrsquot need your giant chefrsquos knife forrdquo

Bread KnifeThe last of the big three is of course a bread knife Have you ever tried to cut a loaf of bread with a straight blade Not so easy (or safe) a task

Itrsquos sometimes difficult to do but no matter the type of knife yoursquore using itrsquos important to try and slice as opposed to chopping or sawing It

is quite tempting (and often seems easier) to saw away at the crispy crust of a floured loaf of sourdough but Knifewearrsquos Pickett said sawing can

be a slippery slope to your bread knifersquos grave

ldquoIf you slice you can use the entire blade and itrsquos a lot sharper along the edgerdquo he explained ldquoItrsquos important to get a good bread knife because you canrsquot sharpen them like you can any other sort of kniferdquo

The Big Three

24

Having good quality kitchen equipment will

make your life easier

Anna Brooks is an award-winning journalist from Calgary Alberta She has worked internationally in Thailand and Africa and has been published in Metro BeatRoute Magazine and the Calgary Journal She also enjoys animal rights fantasy fiction and whiskey sours

Tips and TricksOf course you can adorn your kitchen with the countless others belonging to the knife family mdash cleavers carvers boning knives cheese knives etc mdash but if yoursquore not planning on hacking through solid bone anytime soon you probably donrsquot need to spend $200 on a meat cleaver

But there are some other knife-related implements that are important to have in your kitchen

First off a proper cutting board While plastic cutting boards are versatile and can be chucked in the dishwasher wood is really the best way to go Cutting boards are the quickest way to ruin a knife so steer clear of fancy-looking glass or granite boards mdash they are the antagonists of our story

Itrsquos also not a bad idea to have a knife honer on hand As a reminder (or for

those who had no idea what that random rod in the kitchen was used for) honers are for honing not sharpening

ldquoWith use the metal fibres in a knife edge can get bent to one side or another All yoursquore doing with honing is straightening those fibres back outrdquo Johnson from The Cookbook Co explained ldquoSharpening means yoursquore actually removing material and grinding the metal down to a finer edgerdquo

Johnson added that while you can sharpen at home she always recommends getting your knives sharpened professionally at least once a year depending on how much theyare used

Before you go back to making your lazy-day grilled cheese sandwich or that complex stew yoursquove spent hours on we just want to remind you of whatrsquos called ldquothe pinch griprdquo

Not to sound snobbish but grabbing a knife by the handle and hacking away is poor form Use your thumb and index finger to grasp the blade and then wrap your remaining fingers under the bolster of the knife Shape your other hand into a claw to protect your fingertips from accidentally getting lopped off firmly grasp the object to be cut and slice away

If this knowledge was present in the 17th century perhaps old King Louis XIV would be tipping his crown to more cooks not kitchen knife combatants

25

Times Are A Changing Unexpected Take-Outs

by LINDA GARSON and DIANA NG photography by INGRID KUENZEL

Therersquos no denying that many of our cityrsquos restaurants are feeling the effects of the current economic downturn fewer people working downtown ndash indeed fewer people working altogether and so looking to save money by eating out less means many bricks and mortar restaurants are having to get creative with ways to fully utilise their kitchens and staff

High rents exacerbate the situation so itrsquos time for Calgary restaurateurs to think outside the box and proving to be the innovative entrepreneurs that wersquore known for many are diversifying their offerings to include take-out options both raw and cooked

Catch amp The Oyster Bar launched their ldquoBuy Catchrdquo program where you can pick up fresh Ocean Wise seafood to take home and cook (complete with recipes) along with house-made clam chowder and sauces nearly two years ago There are big savings to be had over dining in with no costs for linen or staff and no expectation to tip

Here are four Calgary eateries also getting clever with take-out

programs that are not widely publicised - and may

open a few eyes

26

Centini Restaurant

Itrsquos not a cookie cutter program but the magic of Centinirsquos take-out is that you can ask the kitchen for ideas of what you should have for dinner People even text the servers for suggestions and to order Loyal customers mostly busy businessmen were asking if they catered but without the staff for such a service Centini started offering to prepare dishes for them to cook themselves

Now you can get your favourite restaurant dishes from rack of lamb with red wine demi-glace AAA Alberta beef tenderloin with Gorgonzola pan sauce and sea bass with ginger cream sauce ready to cook at home ldquoWersquore not going to open a bricks and mortar restaurant down south but our food is going thererdquo says Chevonne Centini Theyrsquore seeing pick-ups such as for people stuck at home with a new baby and even 40 people for a funeral

Boxwood

Itrsquos hard to believe that the quality of food coming from the sister restaurant to River Cafe can be had at home and we are not talking about leftovers When

People take home uncooked homemade pasta with sauce separately and even bread dough and often freeze it to cook later or pick up on a Friday evening so everything is prepared ready for Saturday dinner When buying from a restaurant yoursquore getting top quality perfectly trimmed meat everything is done for you - therersquos no shopping

around and even the parsley is chopped And as everything is custom-made all allergies are catered for too

Centini gets fish delivered once or twice every day and it may come as a surprise but with a chef garde manger that spent 15 years in Japan they have customers coming just to take out sushi

you go home to an empty fridge it feels like the only options you have are fast food or pizza Not so

Boxwoodrsquos fresh and seasonal fare is also available to take home While you wonrsquot

be able to enjoy the quaint atmosphere of the restaurant you can order anything on the menu for take out with its special offering being the whole rotisserie free-range chicken which serves two to four people for $40

Many bricks and mortar restaurants are

having to get creative with ways to fully utilise their

kitchens and staff

You will need to call a few hours ahead (the website states before 200 pm) for enough notice for the chicken but for the rest of the selection like its soups and sandwiches you can simply look up the menu online and call to place an order For a perfect night in may we suggest starting with its bison tartare then moving onto the porchetta and another main before finishing off the meal with a slice of pie

27

Gaucho

For most people the elaborate setup of Brazilian barbecue is one of its biggest attractions You may not know this and while you may not be able to take home the lively decor of Gaucho you can actually take the meal home

The spit packed tightly with freshly roasted meats the sign at the table that signals yoursquore ready for more and the roasted and caramelized pineapple that tops off the meal all contribute to the atmosphere but if all you want are the meats and sides for a hefty dinner you can certainly order the meal as a take-out

Order any of the four options (top sirloin pork loin chicken wings or mild sausage) and add three sides from the list of eight which includes a variety of salads black bean stew and rice And because you canrsquot just have one kind of meat when it comes to Brazilian barbecue you can choose additional

Safari Grill

The marinated thinly sliced BBQ short beef ribs at Safari Grill are already a must-have for those in the know but we suspect even regulars will be surprised to discover that you can pick

up uncooked ribs with your choice of seven marinades to take home and BBQ yourself

With none of the associated costs of dining in $65 buys you enough ribs for 10 people and customers actually drive

meats for $4 each Finally choose the sauce yoursquod like to accompany your meal Orders for over five people will come in a big white box and individual

orders come will in regular take-out containers For big parties do call a few hours ahead All you need to make at home is the caipirinha

from Saskatchewan to take away 10-15 lb bags of these uncooked marinated ribs Some people call and ask for them to be marinated and frozen in 5 lb bags to enjoy later as just 5-7 minutes each side on a high flame has the raw ribs ready to eat

And itrsquos not only ribs that people BBQ at home Mishkaki are skewers of marinated chicken beef and prawns and for as little as $3 each you can have a very inexpensive BBQ feast Marinated raw lamb chops are also available or ask for Samaki - a marinated whole tilapia that comes with a basting sauce to brush on You can even get uncooked samosas to cook in your oven at home

All Safari Grillrsquos regular menu can be ordered for take-out but there is no published price list for uncooked dishes so people call to order and ask - but when yoursquore picking up look out for the new jars of house-made mango and lemon pickles

28

Step By Step Go Nuts With Homemade Nutella And Waffles story and photography by NATALIE FINDLAY

There are many nutritional benefits packed into these small filberts They are rich in dietary fibre packed with folate an excellent source of vitamin E and contain mono-unsaturated fatty acids that

can help lower bad cholesterol and raise good cholesterol By making your own Nutella at home you can control the amount of sugar that is added making this delicious spread basicallyhellip a health food

Hazelnuts have a tried and true following for taking the lead role in the chocolate spread Nutella This long-standing love affair has lasted simply because they add a distinct but subtle flavour to the chocolate Truly a match that is better together than apart

These delicious and super-easy waffles make a great base for your homemade Nutella With the addition of ground hazelnuts to the batter you can deepen the hazelnut flavour and pack in more health benefits

Waffles with raspberries and white chocolate spread

29

Natalie is a freelance writer photographer and pastry chef A graduate of Cordon Bleursquos pastry program she manages her own business too to create custom-made cakes

Using the same waffle recipe from above and switching out the mashed banana and adding frac12 a medium orange ndash juice and zest ndash to the batter you have a delicious orange waffle that will highlight the white chocolate hazelnut spread recipe below

Homemade White Chocolate Hazelnut Spread Makes 1frac12 cups

1frac12 cups (200 g) whole hazelnutsfrac12 cup (70 g) icing sugar2 Tbs (30 mL) canola oil1 tsp (5 mL) vanilla extract1 cup (250g) white chocolate

Follow directions for Homemade Nutella and add the melted white chocolate at the end Pulse to combine

Macerated Raspberries with Orange Serves 6

250 g fresh raspberriesfrac12 medium orange zest and juice1 Tbs icing sugarfrac12 tsp vanilla extract

Add all ingredients into a medium bowl and stir to combine Let sit for about 1 hour

Serve your warm waffles topped with your white chocolate homemade hazelnut spread macerated berries and a dollop of whipped cream or ice cream

Note Homemade Nutella has more texture than store bought and will last around 1 month in the fridge Waffles can be made ahead and frozen Thaw and reheat in the waffle maker or the oven

Banana Fruit compoteMakes enough for 6

3 ripe bananas peeled sliced into rounds2 Tbs (30 g) butter2 Tbs (30 g) brown sugar1frac12 tsp (8 mL) vanilla extract1frac12 tsp (8 mL) bourbon

1 Add butter and sugar to a sauteacute pan over medium heat As they melt stir to combine

2 Add vanilla and bourbon than add sliced bananas and sauteacute until warmed through

Serve your warm waffles topped with your homemade hazelnut spread sauteacuteed bananas and a dollop of whipped cream or ice cream

Homemade Nutella Makes 1frac12 cups

1frac12 cups (200 g) whole hazelnutsfrac34 cup (100g) icing sugar3 Tbs (45 mL) canola oilfrac14 cup (30 g) cocoa powder1 tsp (5 mL) vanilla extract

1 Toast hazelnuts on a baking pan in a preheated 350ordm F oven for 10 - 15 minutes Keep an eye on them to make sure they donrsquot start to burn Remove from oven and let cool to the touch

2 Wrap the nuts in a kitchen towel and rub together to remove the skins This should remove most of the skins

3 Place skinless hazelnuts in a food processor on high Process the nuts until they form a smooth paste and the oils start to separate (about 5 minutes) scraping the bowl often

4 Add the icing sugar cocoa powder vanilla and canola oil to the food processor and process until fully incorporated scraping bowl of processor as needed (about 2 minutes)

Hazelnut Banana WafflesMakes 6

frac12 cup (80 g) all purpose flour1 tsp baking powderfrac12 tsp baking sodaPinch sea salt1 Tbs (15 g) icing sugar1 Tbs (10 g) ground hazelnuts6 grates whole nutmeg1 tsp ground cinnamonfrac12 cup (125 mL) buttermilk1 egg yolk2 Tbs (30 g) butter meltedfrac12 small banana peeled and mashed1 egg white

1 Sift together all dry ingredients (except the ground hazelnuts) in a medium bowl Add the ground hazelnuts and combine

2 Mash the half banana in a small bowl with a fork Add the egg buttermilk and melted butter

3 Whisk the egg white to stiff peaks

4 Whisk the wet ingredients into the dry and fold the egg white into the mixture

5 Follow the directions for your waffle pan to cook waffles for around 5 minutes or until cooked through

Note Remember to bring the waffle pan up to temperature in between each batch of waffles

Hazelnut Banana Waffles with Nutella

30

Citrus Beer Friendsby DAVID NUTTALL

This is when the taste andor aroma of a beer can remind the drinker of anything from an orange drink or lemonade to grapefruit soda There are several ways to achieve this character and these beers are becoming more and more popular every day

Hops provide the bitterness in beer and out of the literally hundreds of varieties a few impart citrus notes into the aroma and flavour Cascade and Citra are examples of two of the most popular hops used in several styles of beer most notably the American IPA or India Pale Ale Cascade hops have been around for over 40 years and it is the single most popular hop used by the American craft brewing industry It provides a floralspicy character often reminiscent of grapefruit

Citrarsquos name leaves no guessing as to its attributes A relative newcomer this cross breed of UK German and US hop varieties has been around for less than a decade but it is already an extremely popular hop for imparting

One of the great things about beer is its diversity It can come in a myriad of colours and also a wide variety of flavours citrus being one of the most distinct

Dave Nuttall has been in the liquor and event business forever He is a qualified beer judge and ownerpresident of Epicurean Calgary at epicureancalgarycom for ten years

citrus and tropical fruit characteristics to a beer

It has proven very versatile and appears in several beer styles from session ales to IPAs It has also become a favourite hop to use for dry-hopping (adding hops late into the boil) due to the exceptional aromas it produces For even more flavour and aroma craft brewers now commonly enhance these already citrusy IPAs with actual zest peel or juice from citrus fruits to create an IPAFruit Beer hybrid which sells especially well in summer months

Then there is the yeast and many varieties of yeast can produce citrusy esters The unfiltered hefeweizens brewed on both sides of the Atlantic quite often have a lemony flavour Sour beers also showcase the yeast often cultured from Belgian strains

These beers are tart and produce a gamut of flavours many with citrus qualities and some have added fruit - the easiest and most obvious way to create a citrusy beer The Belgians also add different kinds of oranges with spice additions to their wheat ales to create wit beers now emulated all over the world with different citrus (and other) fruits involved in the recipe We also canrsquot forget the radlers which are simply a lager beer mixed with 40-60 fruit juice - often grapefruit or lemonade

Whether itrsquos added fruit the yeast the hops or a combination of all of them citrusy beers are commonplace now Thanks to new hops like Citra and the increasing popularity of wits and sours we can expect this trend to continue

Here are a few local beers with hints of citrus All are also available on tap

Beer comes in a myriad of colours and flavours citrus being one of the

most distinct

Ribstone Creek Great White CombineThis tiny Edgerton Alberta brewery has been knocking it out of the park lately Named after the ubiquitous Alberta summer hailstorm the use of Belgian yeast sweet orange peel and coriander give this beer an orange flavour in the beginning When the four different hop additions kick in it changes more to a sweet lemony flavour This White IPA has a very tropical feel that makes you forget it was made in northern Alberta CSPC +774162 $16 6-pack cans

Wild Rose Cowbell Sour ales are the new Belle of the Ball at craft breweries Often using imported Belgian yeast strains they are tart tangy and wellhellip sour Calgaryrsquos Wild Rose has taken this flavour profile and added kaffir lime leaves This makes the beer more like a refreshing limeade and is less bitter than many of its other sour counterparts CSPC +778093 $17 6-pack bottles

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Citradelic Single Hop IPA Big Rock BreweryWith breweries in two (soon to be three) provinces Big Rock now has multiple locations to develop new beers This is the first one from their Vancouver brewery and is full of lemongrapefruit flavours and tropical aromas This beer showcases the Citra hop fooling one to think that citrus has been added when itrsquos all thanks to the hop CSPC +778593 $15 6-pack bottles

Alley Kat Main SqueezeWhat started out as a summer seasonal has now become a mainstay of this Edmonton brewery A North American style wheat ale with a 50 wheat and 50 barley mix it has added grapefruit juice but tastes more along the lines of pink grapefruit rather than its more bitter cousin CSPC +733630 $17 6-pack bottles

32

story by RENEE KOHLMAN

Cheesecake is one of those classic desserts that almost everyone loves unless of course you have a dairy allergy then yoursquoll stay far far away from it While it may seem too complicated to make at home I assure you that itrsquos not

Spice it up cheesecake

Sure there are a few steps involved but the key thing to remember is to have your eggs and cream cheese at room temperature For the best crack-free cheesecake itrsquos best to bake it in a water bath It yields a light creamy texture and is well worth the effort Cheesecake always tastes better the next day so bake it the day before you want to serve it Now that wersquove got the basics down itrsquos time to have a little fun with the crust filling and toppings

The Base

The classic graham cracker crust is fine but every now and again itrsquos great to switch things up Try

ndash Grinding up ginger cookies They work especially well for a pumpkin cheesecake

ndash Chocolate cookie crumbs are fantastic for caramel peanut butter and raspberry cheesecakes

ndash Add finely chopped nuts oats or seeds to the cookie crumbs for added texture and taste

The Middle

Therersquos something to be said for a straight up vanilla or chocolate cheesecake but with some fun add-ins they could take your cheesecake to the next level of deliciousness Try

ndash Swirling tahini dulce de leche salted caramel or chocolate fudge sauce into a creamy vanilla filling

ndash Mix in chopped chocolate peanut butter cups to a chocolate filling

ndash Drop fresh berries (raspberries blueberries blackberries) on top of a vanilla filling

ndash Stir in chopped candied ginger dried cherries or cranberries chopped toasted nuts to the filling

ndash Swap some of the cream cheese with ricotta mascarpone cheese or even strained cottage cheese

ndash You can never go wrong with lemon zest in a vanilla cheesecake

Have a little fun with the crust filling

and toppings

33

Apple Crumble CheesecakeMakes about 12-14 servings Total cook and prep time 3 hours (plus overnight chilling)

I love apple crisp and I love cheesecake This recipe is a fine marriage of both and makes a more than acceptable breakfast The base is a crumble of oats and flour the middle is classic cheesecake and itrsquos topped with cinnamon apples and a buttery oat streusel

Crust 2 cups large flake oats1 cup all purpose flour cup packed brown sugarfrac34 cup butter meltedfrac12 tsp salt

Cheesecake Layer3 - 225 g packages cream cheese at room temperature cup granulated sugar1 tsp (5 mL) vanilla3 large eggs at room temperature cup (80 mL) whipping cream

Apple Layer2 apples peeled cored and sliced about 3-4 mm thick1 tsp ground cinnamonfrac12 tsp salt

Streusel Layer1 cup large flake oatsfrac12 cup all-purpose flourfrac12 cup brown sugarfrac12 cup butter softened1 tsp ground cinnamon

Preheat the oven to 375ordm F

1 Butter the bottom and sides of a 9-inch springform pan with sides that are at least 7 cm high Wrap the bottom of the pan in aluminum foil so it comes at least halfway up the sides

2 Combine the crust ingredients in a large bowl Press the crust evenly into the pan and place on a baking sheet Bake for 10 minutes Remove from oven and let it cool on a wire rack

3 Reduce heat to 325ordm F Put a kettle of water on to boil Have a large roasting pan close by

4 Using a stand mixer with a paddle attachment beat the cream cheese at medium speed for 4 minutes scraping down the sides once or twice until it is soft and creamy With the mixer still running add the sugar and beat for another 4 minutes scraping down the sides of the bowl at least twice Beat in the vanilla Add the eggs one at a time beating for 1 minute after each addition and scraping the bowl Reduce speed to low and add the whipping cream

5 Toss the sliced apples with the cinnamon and salt in a small bowl Combine all of the streusel ingredients in a medium bowl and mix well

6 Place the springform pan in the roasting pan Give the cheesecake batter a good stir and pour it on top of the crust Arrange the apples on top and sprinkle the streusel on top of the apples

7 Place in the oven on the middle rack and pour the hot water into the roasting pan so it comes halfway up the sides of the springform pan

8 Bake the cheesecake for 1frac12 hours Turn off the heat prop open the oven door and let the cheesecake hang inside for another hour

9 Carefully remove from the oven and take out the cheesecake from the hot water bath Remove the foil and let the cheesecake come to room temperature on a wire rack Cover the top lightly and refrigerate for at least 4 hours but overnight is best The next day remove the sides of the pan and serve the cake

Renee is a food writer and pastry chef living in beautiful Saskatoon Saskatchewan Her columns appear in The Saskatoon StarPhoenix and her desserts can be enjoyed at Riverside Country Club Also check out her blog wwwsweetsugarbeancom

The Toppings

Cheesecake with no fun toppings is like a salad with no dressing it just doesnrsquot reach its full flavour potential Try

ndash Salted caramel roasted strawberry sauce or warm chocolate sauce

ndash A rhubarbcardamom compote is divine on top of vanilla cheesecake kissed with a bit of lemon zest Cherry compote is divine with chocolate cheesecake

ndash Have a favourite jam Melt it down with a tiny bit of water and drizzle it on top of your favourite cheesecake

ndash Candied nuts and citrus rind chocolate shavings even crumbled cookies are a fun way to add texture to the cheesecake

ndash Never underestimate the power of fresh seasonal berries and a well-made cheesecakeMacerate them in a little sugar and minced mint or basil and they make a lovely topping Donrsquot forget the whipped cream

34

Think about that for a moment and let that sink in like a cherry in your drink

So how old is ice in bars Well thatrsquos a whole story on its own however the Old Fashioned has been talked about in one form or another since the beginning of the 19th Century The first appearance of this classic cocktail was in the Balance and Columbian Repository newspaper in 1806 as such ldquoA stimulating liquor composed of spirits of any kind sugar water and bittersrdquo

The Old FashionedAn Iconic Drink That Has Stood The Test Of Time

by BRICE PERESSINI

Sohelliphow old is the Old Fashioned The Old Fashioned is as old as ice in bars

When you follow these instructions and put this finely-crafted cocktail into your hand swirl around the ice gaze through the caramel-coloured liquid in the glass and contemplate all that has gone into it you can rest assured you are holding a drink that has delighted taste buds for generations The Old Fashioned however has not always been held in high regard There was a time not too long ago where this fine concoction was an unbalanced fruity watered-down pale imitation of itself More recently

there has been a renaissance involved with this invigorating intoxicant and you can and should expect a proper cocktail when it is ordered at a fine establishment

When this drink is properly prepared it should be in perfect balance (as any proper drink should be) The sweetness of the sugar should not cover the flavour of the bourbon and the bitters should add to not overpower the flavour of the whiskey When the Old Fashioned is well made it is as close to cocktail perfection as a sophisticated patron could expect

Befriend a bespoke barkeep at an upstanding establishment and you will be in trusted hands If you find yourself at home and wanting for a nightcap look no further than the Old Fashioned

Enjoy friends

Old Fashioned Recipe

2 oz Buffalo Trace Bourbon (or your personal favourite)4 dashes Angostura Aromatic Bitters1 raw sugar cube

Muddle the sugar and bitters together with a touch of warm water in a rocks glass Add the bourbon then add ice Stir and garnish with an orange peel and cherry (optional)

Brice is a competition cocktail bartender who plies his trade behind the wood at Chefbar Whisk(e)y is his poison Neat

35

Shoulder Season Wines

by JACLYN ADOMEIT

Wines For Cool Weather

Refreshing white wines match with sunny patios and hot days while bold tannic red wines earn their keep by a fireplace on a winter night Common sense But what about the shoulder season What if yoursquore eating sea bass on a rainy spring day Or sipping wine on a patio during an uncommonly warm April afternoon

Photograph courtesy Tom Firth

36

Wine not only pairs with food but with temperatures and seasons A bright sauvignon blanc can taste flat and acidic on a cold night at no fault of the wine or the drinker Some white wines are other-worldly at the vineyard tasting room in the summer but fall flat when you pull them out for dinner guests in the winter

The change in taste is likely due to a number of factors Anatomically it is your sinus cavities creating the change Higher atmospheric pressures allow your nose to pick out subtle aromas while lower pressures bring out a winersquos acidity and harsh tannins CO2 degasses from liquid at low pressure leaving wines dull and flat too

Serving temperature can greatly affect a winersquos aromatics white wines chilled to near-freezing have dull aromas (Tip allow the bottle a half hour on the counter before popping the cork This will allow the aromatics to warm up enhancing the flavour)

Lastly your own palate will be partial to different flavours depending on sun snow wind and sleet but as a rule of thumb higher alcohol white wines (approximately 13 percent or more) will warm the soul and pair best with cooler weather

Here are some wine selections to go for when it is not too hot and not too cold so you can choose a pairing thatrsquos just right

Fiano

Yoursquoll notice that many of the best white wines for cold weather are grown in hot places Hot climates mean a longer growing season more sugar which leads to higher alcohol and often more robust and tropical flavours All of this is true for fiano - seldom grown outside of Campania in southern Italy Fiano produces age-worthy wines which are rich nutty and delicious

Feudi Di San Gregorio 2014 Campania Fiano di Avellino Italy A beautiful floral bouquet with candied lemon followed by honey-coated hazelnuts on the palate Worth cellaring for a few seasons The perfect dance partner for poultry CSPC +708589 $33

Viognier

Viognier is a white varietal that is best consumed at slightly higher temperatures A chilly glass of viognier will leave you with acid maybe oak and not much else Allow it to warm and you may experience peach pear and toasted almond

Traditionally grown in the warm south of France viognier is often a higher alcohol white wine with rich tropical flavours The heat of the alcohol with tropical flavours and lower acid makes viognier the perfect wine to sip while watching a late spring snowfall

Paul Mas 2014 Languedoc-Roussillon Viognier France Brimming with apricot almond lemon and ripe peach Contains hints of warming oak Pair with something savoury baked brie or spinach-filled puff pastry CSPC + 740978 $17

Dry Roseacute

There is so much more to be had from roseacute than white zinfandel And no itrsquos not just a mix of red and white wine The best roseacute is made from red skinned grapes that only sit on their skins for up to a day and a half to borrow colour and flavour then are fermented and processed

Refined examples of roseacute wines are often dry and have deep aromas of red fruits mild tannins and are savoury instead of sweet The French and Spanish craft great examples of dry roseacutes that are either a single varietal or a blend of grapes such as mourvegravedre grenache syrah or tempranillo

Muga Roseacute 2014 Rioja Grenache Viura and Tempranillo Spain A tamed Rioja Orange blossom woven together with strawberry and a palate of cherry and savoury soft cheese Ideal for charcuterie CSPC + 710261 $16

Orange Wine

Never heard of orange wine A commercial demand for natural wines has fostered a resurgence in ancient wine making practices While roseacute wines are reds that have been produced using white wine making practices orange wines are created from white grapes submitted to maceration and allowed to sit on the skins before fermentation the same practice employed in red winemaking

Unlike any white you have tasted orange wines are full-bodied have mild tannins and deep flavours - the characteristics that allow red wines to bring warmth to cool nights A must try for any wine buff

Allow the bottle a half hour on the counter

before popping the cork

The Bicicleta wines are characterized by their fruity expression and for offering more than

the traditional strains a clear example of this range`s innovation style and creativity

Cono Sur Vineyards amp Winery ConoSurVineyards ConoSurWinesconosurcom

The brewhouse at Wild Rose

Jaclynrsquos first passion was winemaking Shersquos worked in vineyards cellars and restaurants Currently she is a writer who daylights as an environmental engineer She believes that a good life like a good wine is not complete without balance

Nichol 2013 Naramata Pinot Gris Canada A Canadian example of orange wine with backbone Flavours of caramel apple roast nuts orange rind and peach CSPC +504159 $31

Oaked chardonnay

In and out with popular palates oak and chardonnay have been partners for a long time Oak paired with chardonnay can bring out butter richness toasted vanilla tree fruit and in the best examples shimmering minerality That is because oak aging is often accompanied by a malolactic fermentation process that smooths out rigid acids into lactic acid - the acid found in milk

Chardonnay is a grape of many talents and encounters a great diversity of production styles It is oaked examples that pair best with pensive rainy days They are full-bodied warming and complex

Wente Morning Fog 2014 Livermore Valley (California) Chardonnay USA Half oak-aged and malolactic-fermented half crisp and fresh this chardonnay brings together green apple vanilla and toasted oak A friend to cream sauce and roast chicken CSPC +175430 $18

In a province of mutable weather let your wine choices be as varied as the ever changing winds Cheers and herersquos to refined full-bodied cool-weather wines

38

Once yoursquore done with your magazine cover shoot like we did this month or prepping for dinner and have all of those odds and ends just sitting on the cutting board - you know carrot ends onion skins tips of celery stalks you get the point - donrsquot toss lsquoem

Instead place them into a large ziploc bag and straight into the freezer After a couple of weeks yoursquoll likely have four full freezer bags of vegetable bits ready to be turned into broth and herersquos how you do it

Making a big batch of vegetable broth doesnrsquot always mean a trip to the grocery store All you need to do is save those scraps This is a handy trick I learned years ago courtesy of Bon Appetit

No-Waste Vegetable Broth

by DAN CLAPSON

Odds And Ends BrothYields 8 cups (2 L)

12 cups (3 L) water4 full ziploc bags of vegetable trimmings1 yellow onion quartered4 cloves garlicAromatics of choice (I usually toss a couple of rosemary and thyme sprigs in there)To taste Salt and pepper

1 Place all ingredients in a large pot and bring to a boil on medium-high heat

2 Reduce to medium heat and let simmer uncovered for 1frac12 hours

3 Strain season to taste with salt and pepper and use as desired

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40

Salentein 2012 Reserve Chardonnay Uco Valley Argentina

Very very enjoyable chardonnay blowing me away with complexity varietal character and fine balance between oak lees and fruit Toffee baked apple tangerine and a little almond on the nose lead into silkily textured wine in the mouth Top shelf chardonnay that might be great with lobster tails mussels or poultry Around $20 CSPC +779479

Rutini 2013 Cabernet Malbec Mendoza Argentina

An exceptionally well put together blend - if you want rich berry fruits lots of body but maybe not tons of varietal characters from the individual components Lifted and bright fruits make for a very enjoyable glass Simply perfect for your next barbecue a roast or just chilling out with friends and family $26-30 CSPC +776822

Vinecol 2014 Organic Malbec Mendoza Argentina Fair Trade organic and vegan along with a good price is it still good Piles of fresh fruits (think smashed raspberries) with plenty of spice and soft herb-leaf aromas There are plenty of malbec flavours on the palate too Good for any day of the week with just a little tension between fruit tannin and acid it might be best with pub style burgers pulled pork or sausages About $16 CSPC +755296

Argentina is so much more than malbec While such a noble grape has found its best home in the high altitude vineyards of Argentina there is a lot going on with other grapes as well

Making The Case For Argentina

by TOM FIRTH

This massive country nestled up against the Andes mountains has a range of growing conditions suited to a number of grapes From Salta in the north to Patagonia in the south plenty of interesting wines are available here - many reasonably priced and of excellent quality So yes there are some

malbecs on these pages but please do try some of the other grapes and blends coming from Argentina too

Be sure to crack open a bottle of malbec on ldquoWorld Malbec Dayrdquo April 17 - who knows it might be nice enough to barbecue too

Photograph courtesy Tom Firth

41

Manos Negras 2011 Stone Soil Select Mendoza Argentina Quite new to the market this is a pretty enjoyable version of Argentinarsquos flagship grape Loads of blue fruit and raspberries with spices galore and a little compost Rich flavours lead to a lengthy spicy finish Yes please Bring to a barbecue if you can $21 CSPC +630541

Zuccardi 2012 Zeta Mendoza Argentina

A malbec-cabernet sauvignon blend that is also a blend of two different Mendoza appellations La Consulta and Gualtallary Deep and abundant fruit aromas with liquorice root and a touch of blueberry preserves Excellent balance of flavours on the palate too with the right structure and tannin for aging if desired Enjoy with a prime rib or even meaty pasta dishes or game $50-52 CSPC +740270

Zuccardi 2012 ldquoEmmardquo Bonarda Mendoza Argentina

In my humble opinion one of the finest bonardas coming out of Argentina Notes of coffee bean and espresso complement cherry and blackberry fruits with healthy balanced tannins to stand up to the tart fruits Delicious for sure enjoy at your next barbecue $40 CSPC +758407

Luigi Bosca 2011 Cabernet-Malbec Mendoza Argentina

A wonderfully earthy and savoury blend with plenty of tobacco spice leather and yes lots of fruit too The earthy flavours work well with the big dark chocolate flavours and weighty tannins Drink now or through 2020 or so - with a steak naturally $22-24 CSPC +766010

Trivento 2013 Golden Reserve Malbec Lujan de Cuyo Argentina While there is a trend to see a lot of premium malbecs move away from oak presence this one is a bold smooth and delicious example that is seeing about a year of oak All those berry fruits plums and herb notes malbec is known for along with the smoothness that only oak brings Kick back relax maybe cook up some steaks - enjoy About $24 CSPC +711402

Trivento 2014 Malbec Reserve Mendoza Argentina Nearly unbeatable for good malbec at a great price itrsquos rich and chocolatey on the nose with big fruits and oak tones too Mild garrigue notes or dried herb flavours with plenty of fruit and tannins - still showing a fine sense of balance Enjoy with beef $14 CSPC +730714

Luigi Bosca 2011 De Sangre Mendoza Argentina A blend of cabernet sauvignon merlot and syrah that manages to pull out the best of each varietal Earthy and slightly smoky with good fruits and plenty of versatility Tannins are well-placed against the fruits with a long smooth finish Irsquove been a fan of this wine year after year Good to keep a couple on hand in the cellar About $29 CSPC +745106

Salentein 2012 Numina Gran Corte Uco Valley Argentina A malbec-dominated Bordeaux blend this stunner is all about ripe fruits cedar pepper cherries and plum with a little tealeaf and the right amount of tannins Very very well balanced and like any great wine think about some food to go with it Beef tenderloin slow cooked meats or maybe at your next asadohellip About $40 CSPC +764706

Colonia Las Liebres 2013 Bonarda Mendoza Argentina Bear with me here - a fine bonarda with plenty of earthy smoky aromas leading to rubber charred cherries and cocoa Some pretty prominent tannins to be found as well but wow does it all come together A wine that just begs for duck with cranberries or maybe some kebabshellip$20 CSPC +773381

42

Open That Bottleby LINDA GARSON photography by INGRID KUENZEL

ldquoIf you work in a place and yoursquore miserable I donrsquot know if there is a dollar amount that can be attached to that The work that yoursquore doing has to be rewarding and challengingrdquo says Karen KhoGrowing up in Niagara Falls in a Philippino SpanishChinese family Kho was surrounded by food and drinks with an open door policy that has had a huge influence on the person she is today - an

entertainer who likes to make people feel welcome ldquoMy parents wanted me to be a lawyer there was definitely an encouragement to use my voice for goodrdquo she explains ldquoAnd I still think I help people but in a different way a very social wayrdquo

Graduating Western University with a political science degree in 2000 Kho spent a year travelling and living in Australia before taking a leap of faith and moving to Calgary Here she studied wine with the International Sommeliers Guild and WSET but says her real education was a job she adored working in the wine trade at BIN 905 in tandem with running wine programs for CRMR restaurants It was only when the opportunity came to create the wine program at Vin Room six years later that Kho leapt at the challenge of a new idea for the city and spent four happy years there

Eventually she and her partner decided to stretch their wings and went to Vancouver where Kho embarked on a six-month culinary course at the Pacific Institute of Culinary Arts ticking off another box on her bucket list ldquoI wanted a greater understanding of technique in the kitchen and I wanted an understanding of what service on a very basic level would look like if I ever owned my own place and ever had to be the person who filled inrdquo she says ldquoI feel if I was ever in a place that needed someone to chop onions Irsquom your womanrdquo she laughs

A year later the pair came back with the idea of eventually opening their own business in Calgary ldquoThe support we get from this community is heartfelt and this is a city of opportunity People with the right concept are seeing a lot of great success itrsquos still our game planrdquo she says Meanwhile Kho applied only to Teatro where she is now Group Service Director

ldquoI wanted to work at a place that had a challenging wine program and had a level of service with high expectations and where professional service teams

applyrdquo she says ldquoItrsquos pretty romantic to work for a company that has been built on a foundation of service Successful businesses in the restaurant industry get the grand picture which is the moments that yoursquore creating for people and I like to be a part of thatrdquo she adds

So what bottle is Kho saving for a special occasion

Paying homage to her time at BIN 905 Kho explains ldquoI have a bottle of 1996 Chateau Mouton Rothschild which was given to me with some very kind words on my last day at BIN Irsquove always just appreciated my time there it was where I learned the vernacular of wine and itrsquos my first job where I really saw the benefits of serving people with intentionrdquo She continues ldquoI always see it thankfully as the stepping-stone to a broader wine profession and eventually to the position that I have now It was given to me by very close friends that Irsquom still friends with to this dayrdquo

And when is she planning to open the wine

ldquoWhen (partner) Dave and I open our own restaurantrdquo Kho says This isnrsquot something that something that will happen tomorrow but fortunately the wine will last until theyrsquore ready

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16

As Nemeth chats with customers other vendors and friends who stop by her enthusiastic greetings and joyous laughter are hard to ignore mdash this is a woman who clearly likes people In fact she loves them Warm hearty and full of surprises the words used to describe Nemethrsquos personality can just as easily be used to describe her soup

The Primal Soup Co is a fairly new entity mdash the frozen containers of soup with flavours like Mango Butternut Squash Spinach Artichoke and Feta and Thai Coconut Chicken first showed up at the Market on MacLeod (then the

Going To MarketPrimal Soup Company Finds Its Homeby ELIZABETH CHORNEY-BOOTH photography by INGRID KUENZEL

If you happen to spy Margaret Nemeth at one of her Primal Soup Company booths at the Crossroads Market or the Market on MacLeod yoursquoll immediately see that the energetic atmosphere of a Farmersrsquo Market suits her

Kingsland Farmersrsquo Market) in 2011 mdash but Nemeth is not new to the food and beverage game

Long-time Calgarians may recognize the Primal name and the taste of Nemethrsquos homemade soups from the now defunct Primal Grounds Cappuccino Bar and Eatery in Killarney which Nemeth owned and ran from 1996 through to 2010

Nemeth opened that business after a career in oil and gas and the stand-alone cafeacute was a solid success for her Not only did it serve up great coffee Nemeth quickly made a name for herself with her homemade soup creations All homemade and gluten-free (due to Nemethrsquos own dietary restrictions) Primal Grounds was catering to people with gluten intolerances long before it became fashionable

ldquoWe were pioneers and it was so much funrdquo Nemeth says ldquoThere were lots of ups and downs but it was a good liferdquo

ldquoWhen yoursquore in a market you have to give people reasons to stoprdquo

Margaret Nemeth

17

Nemeth sold the cafeacute when a real estate developer made her an offer she couldnrsquot refuse but she still felt the urge to be around people and feed them So she set up shop in the markets - first the Market on MacLeod and then in January of 2015 she opened a stall in the rebranded Crossroads Market

Elizabeth Chorney-Booth is a Calgary-based writer and co-founderco-editor of RollingSpooncom and Wapawekkacom She enjoys exploring the connection between music and food through interviews with musicians and chefs

Primal Soup also sells lunch items like gourmet macaroni and cheese sandwiches and homemade pies and pastries so that market wanderers can stop by the stall and grab a full lunch while perusing the soup cooler for something to take home for a future meal

ldquoWhen yoursquore in a market you have to give people reasons to stoprdquo Nemeth says ldquoSo we offer things to go with the soup which also gives them ideas for what they can do at home Or sometimes theyrsquoll come for a sandwich and then theyrsquoll look at the soups You have to give people reasons to be in this spacerdquo

ldquoWe were pioneers and it was so much funrdquo

Whatever Nemeth is doing it seems to be working Between the two farmersrsquo markets and specialty retailers like the Market on 17th Sunnyside Market and SPUD delivery boxes Primal Soup Co sells over 1000 containers of soup every week Nemeth develops the recipes herself but has hired a full-time chef to keep up with the demand Personality and strategic stall locations in busy farmersrsquo markets alone isnrsquot enough to move that kind of volume of soup mdash while Nemeth has made smart business decisions over the course of Primalrsquos various incarnations the key to her success really lies in the product itself Everything is made from scratch without the aid of pre-bought soup bases and Nemeth uses seasonal ingredients (only 20 to 30 of her 50 soup varieties are ever available at any given time) supporting her neighbours at the markets when possible Her meat stocks are built from organic chicken bones Wintersrsquo turkey carcasses and duck bones from fellow market vendor Green Eggs and Ham to build a rich and delicious broth ldquoI layer my soupsrdquo Nemeth says ldquoI donrsquot just throw everything in the pot together And there has to be a twist in every one There has to be something

that you donrsquot expect mdash a surprise in every boxrdquo

To bring things full circle Nemeth has a new venture that just opened kitty corner to her Primal Soup stall in the Crossroads Market a beautiful and shiny new Primal Grounds coffee location With a long counter for people to sit at for as long as they like (Nemeth jokes that itrsquos the perfect place for bored spouses to sit while their partners shop the market) itrsquos an updated nod to what got Primal Soup started in the first place

And itrsquos also a testament to Nemethrsquos dedication to market life mdash the lack of control she has over her own hours and some other aspects arenrsquot perfect but the busyness the proximity to like-minded vendors and most of all the people she gets to interact with on a constant basis has put Nemeth exactly where she belongs ldquoYoursquore only as strong as the market is collectivelyrdquo she says ldquoItrsquos different than being a restaurant but I have to say itrsquos the funnest thing Irsquove ever donerdquo

ldquoThere has to be something that you donrsquot

expect mdash a surprise in every boxrdquo

18

Soup Kitchenstory and photography by DAN CLAPSON

The fresh hang-up-your-winter-jacket feeling is finally in the air ndash and that my friends is a wonderful thing Gone are the days where wersquove looked forward to spooning into a big bowl of creamy soup or sitting down to some chicken noodle soup to help shake off the winter sniffles These days Irsquom more concerned with light and bright flavours and less calorie-ridden meals

so I wonrsquot look completely undesirable in a swimsuit come June

Here are two great recipes that just happen to be vegan but are bursting with flavour

Serves 5 Total cook time 35 minutes

6 cups (15 L) vegetable broth1 cup (240 mL) white wine1 cup (240 mL) water2 Tbs (30 mL) tomato paste2 cups dry green lentils1 red onion halved and thinly sliced1 small fennel bulb halved and thinly sliced2 tsp (10 mL) maple syrup1 tsp dried oreganofrac12 tsp ground turmericfrac12 tsp chili flakesfrac12 tsp ground cinnamon1 pinch nutmeg2 cups thinly sliced red Swiss chardTo taste salt and pepper

1 Place broth wine water and tomato paste in a large pot and bring to a simmer on medium-high heat Add lentils and cook for 15 minutes

2 Add onion fennel maple syrup and spices and continue to cook for 15 minutes

Spiced Green Lentil and Chard Soup

3 Add Swiss chard and cook until leaves are tender about 2-3 minutes Season to taste with salt and pepper and serve

Dan Clapson is a freelance food writer and columnist in Calgary When hersquos not writing about Canadarsquos amazing culinary scene he is likely listening to 80s rock or 90s boy bands Follow him on twitter dansgoodside

Spinach and Cashew Soup with Poblano and Scallion Salsa

Serves 4 Total cook time 30 minutes not including cashew soak time

Soup1frac12 cups roasted cashews2 cups (500 mL) water4 cups (1 L) vegetable broth4 cups cooked spinach1 Tbs (15 mL) apple cider vinegar1 Tbs (15 mL) maple syrupfrac12 tsp cayenne peppersalt and pepper to tastecashew butter for garnish optional

1 Place cashews and water in a container cover and let sit on counter overnight

2 Combine cashews water and remaining soup ingredients in a blender and pureacutee until very smooth

3 Pour contents of blender through a fine mesh strainer into a medium pot Bring to a simmer on medium-high heat and cook for 15 minutes Season to taste with salt and pepper and keep warm on stove until ready to serve

4 Place a couple of spoonfuls of the salsa into each bowl and ladle soup around it Add a couple of dollops of cashew butter for a little extra richness

Salsa1 large poblano pepper halved and seeds removed1 bunch scallions2 Tbs (30 mL) canola oil2 Tbs fresh mint roughly chopped1 tsp (5 mL) lemon juicefrac12 tsp cane sugarfrac12 tsp chili flakessalt and pepper to taste

1 Preheat oven to 400ordm F

2 Place poblano halves and scallions on a baking sheet drizzle with oil and roast until slightly charred about 15-18 minutes

3 Remove from oven allow to cool slightly then give them a rough chop

4 Add to a bowl with remaining ingredients and toss to combine Season liberally with salt and pepper

20

Photograph courtesy California Wine Institute

Ever since Napa Valley cabernet sauvignons and chardonnays bested their more historic counterparts from Bordeaux and Burgundy in the now-famous Judgment of Paris tasting in 1976 California and its flagship region have carried the torch for the bold dense fruity lushly oaked wines that brought them worldwide fame

Forty years later this sun-drenched style of wines remains both unapologetically enjoyable and wildly popular and Napa is on the bucket list of any devoted wine tourist But as tastes and trends start to evolve away from a focus on power and concentration towards greater elegance and food-friendliness winemakers in California are again taking to the frontier gravitating towards the statersquos physical and climatic extremes to explore new boundaries of flavour and complexity Californiarsquos cooler corners

California Coolby PETER VETSCH

California is a land of frontiers dangling on the edge of the Pacific home of the Gold Rush and epicentre of the New Worldrsquos insurgence onto the global wine scene

are fast becoming its second face in the world of wine

Sonoma County north of San Francisco and just west of Napa is probably Californiarsquos second best-known region almost equally recognized for its cabernets chardonnays and zinfandels The largest subregion in the county taking up almost a third of its total area is the western Sonoma Coast too expansive at 500000 acres to have a distinct identity

However the western border of this appellation a razorrsquos edge straddling the ocean locally known as the ldquotruerdquo Sonoma Coast showcases the regionrsquos true character - extreme viticulture wet cool and always windy at elevations up to 2000 feet balanced on the San Andreas Fault with many vines growing above the fog line and constantly exposed to the throes of the Pacific Pinot noir takes on a unique expression here on low-yielding vines in the cool above the rest of Sonoma offering both remarkable purity of fruit and astonishing acidity and structure

Pinot is also predominant in the relatively new Santa Rita Hills subregion of the Santa Ynez Valley located an hour and a half northwest of Los Angeles and similarly perched right alongside the ocean The maritime influence dominates the microclimate and counteracts the California sun with fog and cool breezes to the point where this coastal spot becomes a near ideal substitute for chilly Burgundy Here the core Burgundian varietals of pinot noir and chardonnay thrive in a particularly striking edgy way

Santa Ynez is the only wine region in the western hemisphere where the arearsquos defining mountain range runs east-west instead of north-south creating a sort of maritime wind tunnel that sucks cold Pacific air eastward This leads to some of the largest diurnal (day to night) temperature shifts in North America and allows inland grapes ripening in the scorching daytime heat to recharge and maintain acidity at night This special geological feature allows a wide range of reds in Santa Ynez to be juicy but still structured bold yet balanced from cabernet and merlot to syrah and grenache

Halfway between the Sonoma Coast to the north and the Santa Rita Hills to the south along yet another coastline

California can comfortably both provide continuity

and defy stereotype

Wine Picks

Peter is a local lawyer by day and wine writer by night maintaining his own wine blog at popandpourca He is always on the lookout for the next way to experience wine and the next good bottle to try

A LITTLE SIBLING RIVALRY NEVER HURT ANYBODY

FOUR SETTINGS ONE PHILOSOPHY crmrcom338 - 17th Avenue SW

c i l a n t ro

747 Lake Bonavista Dr SE113 - 8th Avenue SW 340 - 17th Avenue SW

Sequoia Grove 2012 Cabernet Sauvignon (Napa Valley)Textbook cabernet from Naparsquos heart of Rutherford with deep black fruit mint and cedarhellip and a survivable price tag CSPC +740382 $56

Hartford Court Landrsquos Edge Vineyard Pinot Noir (Sonoma Coast)The ferocity of the Sonoma Coast somehow creates the picture of elegance in this juicy yet delicate pinot CSPC +717210 $60

Domaine de la Cote 2013 Pinot Noir (Sta Rita Hills) Seriously pushes the boundaries picked almost insanely early for low-alcohol herbal pomegranate and rhubarb acidic tension and energy CSPC +761893 $58

Alice May Crosswinds Syrah (Santa Ynez Valley) A syrahviognier Cote Rotie-style co-ferment that matches Cali ripeness with surprising verve and delicacy CSPC +761131 $28

Ridge 2013 Geyserville (Santa Cruz Mountains)This will change your expectations of zinfandel A zin-heavy field blend it combines the best of its mountain altitude and the California sun CSPC +426379 $55

just south of San Jose the wineries of the Santa Cruz Mountains prove again that those seeking to make modern moderate wines in California head both west and up The highest vineyards in Santa Cruz despite being just miles from the ocean are at 2600 feet this significant altitude and the cool Pacific climate results in chiseled wines with controlled ripeness and serious staying power

The region is both expansive and miniscule with only 1500 of its 480000 acres currently planted to grapes and its very-California plantings (cabernet chardonnay pinot noir zinfandel and merlot) all take on an Old World character and rusticity from its rugged terrain and stony mineral-laden soils Despite the challenges associated with growing grapes on a cool rock face Santa Cruz is a state leader in sustainable growing practices

The friendly sunny face of California wine is surely here to stay but Santa Cruz Santa Ynez and the Sonoma Coast are permanent proof that the state is readily capable of more than one expression With its range of climate and terrain California can comfortably both provide continuity and defy stereotype

22

En GardeA Beginnerrsquos Guide To Knives And Their Usesby ANNA BROOKS

Itrsquos difficult to imagine that sharp little number thatrsquos slicing away to the rhythm of your favourite cooking music (or to the beating of child-size fists hungry for dinner) was more often used for combat not chopping carrots

Despite King Louis XIVrsquos decree that the tips of knives be ground down to reduce violence in the mid-1600s kitchen knives still (for quite pointed reasons) make popular murder weapons

But we wonrsquot get into grisly stories of guts and gore here Whether yoursquore a chef extraordinaire or the person whose knife knowledge goes as far as cutting

vegetables with a steak knife there are some things everyone should know about knives

The first major thing we must insist upon is putting down that expensive 14-piece knife set As most knife experts can attest to three main knives can cover almost all the work that a layman cook needs to do in the kitchen

23

Three main knives can cover almost all the work that a layman cook needs

to do in the kitchen

Chefrsquos Knife Your standard knife for mincing and slicing vegetables and meat a chefrsquos knife is typically 20-25 cm long but can range all the way up to 36 cm

Luke Pickett from Knifewear is a sight to see wielding some wickedly sharp

handcrafted Japanese models but despite their carnivorous look Pickett said therersquos really nothing to fear

ldquoThere are a lot of people who are scared of really large knivesrdquo Pickett said ldquoBut having good quality kitchen equipment will make your life easierrdquo

For beginners a standard 20 cm chefrsquos knife (although Pickett said blade length is purely based on personal preference) is best to start with but a Japanese Santoku knife mdash an elegant slightly smaller version of a chefrsquos knife mdash will certainly get the job er meal done

Paring KnifeOn the other side of the knife spectrum is the pocket-sized paring knife (note carrying knives in pockets not recommended)

Regan Johnson assistant manager at The Cookbook Co said besides what the individual using a steak knife to cut everything might think the small intricate work required of a paring knife (such as peeling and trimming) should not be done on a cutting board

ldquoParing is anything you can be doing in the air mdash yoursquore not ever supposed to use a paring knife on a boardrdquo she explained

Johnson added that for someone like herself who does almost as much blade-wielding as a samurai she also recommends a utility knife

which is a hybrid of a chefrsquos knife and a paring knife

ldquoI reach for my utility knife a lotrdquo she said ldquoItrsquos got that shape of a paring knife but is longer Itrsquos just for those things in between that you donrsquot need your giant chefrsquos knife forrdquo

Bread KnifeThe last of the big three is of course a bread knife Have you ever tried to cut a loaf of bread with a straight blade Not so easy (or safe) a task

Itrsquos sometimes difficult to do but no matter the type of knife yoursquore using itrsquos important to try and slice as opposed to chopping or sawing It

is quite tempting (and often seems easier) to saw away at the crispy crust of a floured loaf of sourdough but Knifewearrsquos Pickett said sawing can

be a slippery slope to your bread knifersquos grave

ldquoIf you slice you can use the entire blade and itrsquos a lot sharper along the edgerdquo he explained ldquoItrsquos important to get a good bread knife because you canrsquot sharpen them like you can any other sort of kniferdquo

The Big Three

24

Having good quality kitchen equipment will

make your life easier

Anna Brooks is an award-winning journalist from Calgary Alberta She has worked internationally in Thailand and Africa and has been published in Metro BeatRoute Magazine and the Calgary Journal She also enjoys animal rights fantasy fiction and whiskey sours

Tips and TricksOf course you can adorn your kitchen with the countless others belonging to the knife family mdash cleavers carvers boning knives cheese knives etc mdash but if yoursquore not planning on hacking through solid bone anytime soon you probably donrsquot need to spend $200 on a meat cleaver

But there are some other knife-related implements that are important to have in your kitchen

First off a proper cutting board While plastic cutting boards are versatile and can be chucked in the dishwasher wood is really the best way to go Cutting boards are the quickest way to ruin a knife so steer clear of fancy-looking glass or granite boards mdash they are the antagonists of our story

Itrsquos also not a bad idea to have a knife honer on hand As a reminder (or for

those who had no idea what that random rod in the kitchen was used for) honers are for honing not sharpening

ldquoWith use the metal fibres in a knife edge can get bent to one side or another All yoursquore doing with honing is straightening those fibres back outrdquo Johnson from The Cookbook Co explained ldquoSharpening means yoursquore actually removing material and grinding the metal down to a finer edgerdquo

Johnson added that while you can sharpen at home she always recommends getting your knives sharpened professionally at least once a year depending on how much theyare used

Before you go back to making your lazy-day grilled cheese sandwich or that complex stew yoursquove spent hours on we just want to remind you of whatrsquos called ldquothe pinch griprdquo

Not to sound snobbish but grabbing a knife by the handle and hacking away is poor form Use your thumb and index finger to grasp the blade and then wrap your remaining fingers under the bolster of the knife Shape your other hand into a claw to protect your fingertips from accidentally getting lopped off firmly grasp the object to be cut and slice away

If this knowledge was present in the 17th century perhaps old King Louis XIV would be tipping his crown to more cooks not kitchen knife combatants

25

Times Are A Changing Unexpected Take-Outs

by LINDA GARSON and DIANA NG photography by INGRID KUENZEL

Therersquos no denying that many of our cityrsquos restaurants are feeling the effects of the current economic downturn fewer people working downtown ndash indeed fewer people working altogether and so looking to save money by eating out less means many bricks and mortar restaurants are having to get creative with ways to fully utilise their kitchens and staff

High rents exacerbate the situation so itrsquos time for Calgary restaurateurs to think outside the box and proving to be the innovative entrepreneurs that wersquore known for many are diversifying their offerings to include take-out options both raw and cooked

Catch amp The Oyster Bar launched their ldquoBuy Catchrdquo program where you can pick up fresh Ocean Wise seafood to take home and cook (complete with recipes) along with house-made clam chowder and sauces nearly two years ago There are big savings to be had over dining in with no costs for linen or staff and no expectation to tip

Here are four Calgary eateries also getting clever with take-out

programs that are not widely publicised - and may

open a few eyes

26

Centini Restaurant

Itrsquos not a cookie cutter program but the magic of Centinirsquos take-out is that you can ask the kitchen for ideas of what you should have for dinner People even text the servers for suggestions and to order Loyal customers mostly busy businessmen were asking if they catered but without the staff for such a service Centini started offering to prepare dishes for them to cook themselves

Now you can get your favourite restaurant dishes from rack of lamb with red wine demi-glace AAA Alberta beef tenderloin with Gorgonzola pan sauce and sea bass with ginger cream sauce ready to cook at home ldquoWersquore not going to open a bricks and mortar restaurant down south but our food is going thererdquo says Chevonne Centini Theyrsquore seeing pick-ups such as for people stuck at home with a new baby and even 40 people for a funeral

Boxwood

Itrsquos hard to believe that the quality of food coming from the sister restaurant to River Cafe can be had at home and we are not talking about leftovers When

People take home uncooked homemade pasta with sauce separately and even bread dough and often freeze it to cook later or pick up on a Friday evening so everything is prepared ready for Saturday dinner When buying from a restaurant yoursquore getting top quality perfectly trimmed meat everything is done for you - therersquos no shopping

around and even the parsley is chopped And as everything is custom-made all allergies are catered for too

Centini gets fish delivered once or twice every day and it may come as a surprise but with a chef garde manger that spent 15 years in Japan they have customers coming just to take out sushi

you go home to an empty fridge it feels like the only options you have are fast food or pizza Not so

Boxwoodrsquos fresh and seasonal fare is also available to take home While you wonrsquot

be able to enjoy the quaint atmosphere of the restaurant you can order anything on the menu for take out with its special offering being the whole rotisserie free-range chicken which serves two to four people for $40

Many bricks and mortar restaurants are

having to get creative with ways to fully utilise their

kitchens and staff

You will need to call a few hours ahead (the website states before 200 pm) for enough notice for the chicken but for the rest of the selection like its soups and sandwiches you can simply look up the menu online and call to place an order For a perfect night in may we suggest starting with its bison tartare then moving onto the porchetta and another main before finishing off the meal with a slice of pie

27

Gaucho

For most people the elaborate setup of Brazilian barbecue is one of its biggest attractions You may not know this and while you may not be able to take home the lively decor of Gaucho you can actually take the meal home

The spit packed tightly with freshly roasted meats the sign at the table that signals yoursquore ready for more and the roasted and caramelized pineapple that tops off the meal all contribute to the atmosphere but if all you want are the meats and sides for a hefty dinner you can certainly order the meal as a take-out

Order any of the four options (top sirloin pork loin chicken wings or mild sausage) and add three sides from the list of eight which includes a variety of salads black bean stew and rice And because you canrsquot just have one kind of meat when it comes to Brazilian barbecue you can choose additional

Safari Grill

The marinated thinly sliced BBQ short beef ribs at Safari Grill are already a must-have for those in the know but we suspect even regulars will be surprised to discover that you can pick

up uncooked ribs with your choice of seven marinades to take home and BBQ yourself

With none of the associated costs of dining in $65 buys you enough ribs for 10 people and customers actually drive

meats for $4 each Finally choose the sauce yoursquod like to accompany your meal Orders for over five people will come in a big white box and individual

orders come will in regular take-out containers For big parties do call a few hours ahead All you need to make at home is the caipirinha

from Saskatchewan to take away 10-15 lb bags of these uncooked marinated ribs Some people call and ask for them to be marinated and frozen in 5 lb bags to enjoy later as just 5-7 minutes each side on a high flame has the raw ribs ready to eat

And itrsquos not only ribs that people BBQ at home Mishkaki are skewers of marinated chicken beef and prawns and for as little as $3 each you can have a very inexpensive BBQ feast Marinated raw lamb chops are also available or ask for Samaki - a marinated whole tilapia that comes with a basting sauce to brush on You can even get uncooked samosas to cook in your oven at home

All Safari Grillrsquos regular menu can be ordered for take-out but there is no published price list for uncooked dishes so people call to order and ask - but when yoursquore picking up look out for the new jars of house-made mango and lemon pickles

28

Step By Step Go Nuts With Homemade Nutella And Waffles story and photography by NATALIE FINDLAY

There are many nutritional benefits packed into these small filberts They are rich in dietary fibre packed with folate an excellent source of vitamin E and contain mono-unsaturated fatty acids that

can help lower bad cholesterol and raise good cholesterol By making your own Nutella at home you can control the amount of sugar that is added making this delicious spread basicallyhellip a health food

Hazelnuts have a tried and true following for taking the lead role in the chocolate spread Nutella This long-standing love affair has lasted simply because they add a distinct but subtle flavour to the chocolate Truly a match that is better together than apart

These delicious and super-easy waffles make a great base for your homemade Nutella With the addition of ground hazelnuts to the batter you can deepen the hazelnut flavour and pack in more health benefits

Waffles with raspberries and white chocolate spread

29

Natalie is a freelance writer photographer and pastry chef A graduate of Cordon Bleursquos pastry program she manages her own business too to create custom-made cakes

Using the same waffle recipe from above and switching out the mashed banana and adding frac12 a medium orange ndash juice and zest ndash to the batter you have a delicious orange waffle that will highlight the white chocolate hazelnut spread recipe below

Homemade White Chocolate Hazelnut Spread Makes 1frac12 cups

1frac12 cups (200 g) whole hazelnutsfrac12 cup (70 g) icing sugar2 Tbs (30 mL) canola oil1 tsp (5 mL) vanilla extract1 cup (250g) white chocolate

Follow directions for Homemade Nutella and add the melted white chocolate at the end Pulse to combine

Macerated Raspberries with Orange Serves 6

250 g fresh raspberriesfrac12 medium orange zest and juice1 Tbs icing sugarfrac12 tsp vanilla extract

Add all ingredients into a medium bowl and stir to combine Let sit for about 1 hour

Serve your warm waffles topped with your white chocolate homemade hazelnut spread macerated berries and a dollop of whipped cream or ice cream

Note Homemade Nutella has more texture than store bought and will last around 1 month in the fridge Waffles can be made ahead and frozen Thaw and reheat in the waffle maker or the oven

Banana Fruit compoteMakes enough for 6

3 ripe bananas peeled sliced into rounds2 Tbs (30 g) butter2 Tbs (30 g) brown sugar1frac12 tsp (8 mL) vanilla extract1frac12 tsp (8 mL) bourbon

1 Add butter and sugar to a sauteacute pan over medium heat As they melt stir to combine

2 Add vanilla and bourbon than add sliced bananas and sauteacute until warmed through

Serve your warm waffles topped with your homemade hazelnut spread sauteacuteed bananas and a dollop of whipped cream or ice cream

Homemade Nutella Makes 1frac12 cups

1frac12 cups (200 g) whole hazelnutsfrac34 cup (100g) icing sugar3 Tbs (45 mL) canola oilfrac14 cup (30 g) cocoa powder1 tsp (5 mL) vanilla extract

1 Toast hazelnuts on a baking pan in a preheated 350ordm F oven for 10 - 15 minutes Keep an eye on them to make sure they donrsquot start to burn Remove from oven and let cool to the touch

2 Wrap the nuts in a kitchen towel and rub together to remove the skins This should remove most of the skins

3 Place skinless hazelnuts in a food processor on high Process the nuts until they form a smooth paste and the oils start to separate (about 5 minutes) scraping the bowl often

4 Add the icing sugar cocoa powder vanilla and canola oil to the food processor and process until fully incorporated scraping bowl of processor as needed (about 2 minutes)

Hazelnut Banana WafflesMakes 6

frac12 cup (80 g) all purpose flour1 tsp baking powderfrac12 tsp baking sodaPinch sea salt1 Tbs (15 g) icing sugar1 Tbs (10 g) ground hazelnuts6 grates whole nutmeg1 tsp ground cinnamonfrac12 cup (125 mL) buttermilk1 egg yolk2 Tbs (30 g) butter meltedfrac12 small banana peeled and mashed1 egg white

1 Sift together all dry ingredients (except the ground hazelnuts) in a medium bowl Add the ground hazelnuts and combine

2 Mash the half banana in a small bowl with a fork Add the egg buttermilk and melted butter

3 Whisk the egg white to stiff peaks

4 Whisk the wet ingredients into the dry and fold the egg white into the mixture

5 Follow the directions for your waffle pan to cook waffles for around 5 minutes or until cooked through

Note Remember to bring the waffle pan up to temperature in between each batch of waffles

Hazelnut Banana Waffles with Nutella

30

Citrus Beer Friendsby DAVID NUTTALL

This is when the taste andor aroma of a beer can remind the drinker of anything from an orange drink or lemonade to grapefruit soda There are several ways to achieve this character and these beers are becoming more and more popular every day

Hops provide the bitterness in beer and out of the literally hundreds of varieties a few impart citrus notes into the aroma and flavour Cascade and Citra are examples of two of the most popular hops used in several styles of beer most notably the American IPA or India Pale Ale Cascade hops have been around for over 40 years and it is the single most popular hop used by the American craft brewing industry It provides a floralspicy character often reminiscent of grapefruit

Citrarsquos name leaves no guessing as to its attributes A relative newcomer this cross breed of UK German and US hop varieties has been around for less than a decade but it is already an extremely popular hop for imparting

One of the great things about beer is its diversity It can come in a myriad of colours and also a wide variety of flavours citrus being one of the most distinct

Dave Nuttall has been in the liquor and event business forever He is a qualified beer judge and ownerpresident of Epicurean Calgary at epicureancalgarycom for ten years

citrus and tropical fruit characteristics to a beer

It has proven very versatile and appears in several beer styles from session ales to IPAs It has also become a favourite hop to use for dry-hopping (adding hops late into the boil) due to the exceptional aromas it produces For even more flavour and aroma craft brewers now commonly enhance these already citrusy IPAs with actual zest peel or juice from citrus fruits to create an IPAFruit Beer hybrid which sells especially well in summer months

Then there is the yeast and many varieties of yeast can produce citrusy esters The unfiltered hefeweizens brewed on both sides of the Atlantic quite often have a lemony flavour Sour beers also showcase the yeast often cultured from Belgian strains

These beers are tart and produce a gamut of flavours many with citrus qualities and some have added fruit - the easiest and most obvious way to create a citrusy beer The Belgians also add different kinds of oranges with spice additions to their wheat ales to create wit beers now emulated all over the world with different citrus (and other) fruits involved in the recipe We also canrsquot forget the radlers which are simply a lager beer mixed with 40-60 fruit juice - often grapefruit or lemonade

Whether itrsquos added fruit the yeast the hops or a combination of all of them citrusy beers are commonplace now Thanks to new hops like Citra and the increasing popularity of wits and sours we can expect this trend to continue

Here are a few local beers with hints of citrus All are also available on tap

Beer comes in a myriad of colours and flavours citrus being one of the

most distinct

Ribstone Creek Great White CombineThis tiny Edgerton Alberta brewery has been knocking it out of the park lately Named after the ubiquitous Alberta summer hailstorm the use of Belgian yeast sweet orange peel and coriander give this beer an orange flavour in the beginning When the four different hop additions kick in it changes more to a sweet lemony flavour This White IPA has a very tropical feel that makes you forget it was made in northern Alberta CSPC +774162 $16 6-pack cans

Wild Rose Cowbell Sour ales are the new Belle of the Ball at craft breweries Often using imported Belgian yeast strains they are tart tangy and wellhellip sour Calgaryrsquos Wild Rose has taken this flavour profile and added kaffir lime leaves This makes the beer more like a refreshing limeade and is less bitter than many of its other sour counterparts CSPC +778093 $17 6-pack bottles

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TICKETS AVAILABLE AT ALBERTABEERFESTIVALSCOM

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Citradelic Single Hop IPA Big Rock BreweryWith breweries in two (soon to be three) provinces Big Rock now has multiple locations to develop new beers This is the first one from their Vancouver brewery and is full of lemongrapefruit flavours and tropical aromas This beer showcases the Citra hop fooling one to think that citrus has been added when itrsquos all thanks to the hop CSPC +778593 $15 6-pack bottles

Alley Kat Main SqueezeWhat started out as a summer seasonal has now become a mainstay of this Edmonton brewery A North American style wheat ale with a 50 wheat and 50 barley mix it has added grapefruit juice but tastes more along the lines of pink grapefruit rather than its more bitter cousin CSPC +733630 $17 6-pack bottles

32

story by RENEE KOHLMAN

Cheesecake is one of those classic desserts that almost everyone loves unless of course you have a dairy allergy then yoursquoll stay far far away from it While it may seem too complicated to make at home I assure you that itrsquos not

Spice it up cheesecake

Sure there are a few steps involved but the key thing to remember is to have your eggs and cream cheese at room temperature For the best crack-free cheesecake itrsquos best to bake it in a water bath It yields a light creamy texture and is well worth the effort Cheesecake always tastes better the next day so bake it the day before you want to serve it Now that wersquove got the basics down itrsquos time to have a little fun with the crust filling and toppings

The Base

The classic graham cracker crust is fine but every now and again itrsquos great to switch things up Try

ndash Grinding up ginger cookies They work especially well for a pumpkin cheesecake

ndash Chocolate cookie crumbs are fantastic for caramel peanut butter and raspberry cheesecakes

ndash Add finely chopped nuts oats or seeds to the cookie crumbs for added texture and taste

The Middle

Therersquos something to be said for a straight up vanilla or chocolate cheesecake but with some fun add-ins they could take your cheesecake to the next level of deliciousness Try

ndash Swirling tahini dulce de leche salted caramel or chocolate fudge sauce into a creamy vanilla filling

ndash Mix in chopped chocolate peanut butter cups to a chocolate filling

ndash Drop fresh berries (raspberries blueberries blackberries) on top of a vanilla filling

ndash Stir in chopped candied ginger dried cherries or cranberries chopped toasted nuts to the filling

ndash Swap some of the cream cheese with ricotta mascarpone cheese or even strained cottage cheese

ndash You can never go wrong with lemon zest in a vanilla cheesecake

Have a little fun with the crust filling

and toppings

33

Apple Crumble CheesecakeMakes about 12-14 servings Total cook and prep time 3 hours (plus overnight chilling)

I love apple crisp and I love cheesecake This recipe is a fine marriage of both and makes a more than acceptable breakfast The base is a crumble of oats and flour the middle is classic cheesecake and itrsquos topped with cinnamon apples and a buttery oat streusel

Crust 2 cups large flake oats1 cup all purpose flour cup packed brown sugarfrac34 cup butter meltedfrac12 tsp salt

Cheesecake Layer3 - 225 g packages cream cheese at room temperature cup granulated sugar1 tsp (5 mL) vanilla3 large eggs at room temperature cup (80 mL) whipping cream

Apple Layer2 apples peeled cored and sliced about 3-4 mm thick1 tsp ground cinnamonfrac12 tsp salt

Streusel Layer1 cup large flake oatsfrac12 cup all-purpose flourfrac12 cup brown sugarfrac12 cup butter softened1 tsp ground cinnamon

Preheat the oven to 375ordm F

1 Butter the bottom and sides of a 9-inch springform pan with sides that are at least 7 cm high Wrap the bottom of the pan in aluminum foil so it comes at least halfway up the sides

2 Combine the crust ingredients in a large bowl Press the crust evenly into the pan and place on a baking sheet Bake for 10 minutes Remove from oven and let it cool on a wire rack

3 Reduce heat to 325ordm F Put a kettle of water on to boil Have a large roasting pan close by

4 Using a stand mixer with a paddle attachment beat the cream cheese at medium speed for 4 minutes scraping down the sides once or twice until it is soft and creamy With the mixer still running add the sugar and beat for another 4 minutes scraping down the sides of the bowl at least twice Beat in the vanilla Add the eggs one at a time beating for 1 minute after each addition and scraping the bowl Reduce speed to low and add the whipping cream

5 Toss the sliced apples with the cinnamon and salt in a small bowl Combine all of the streusel ingredients in a medium bowl and mix well

6 Place the springform pan in the roasting pan Give the cheesecake batter a good stir and pour it on top of the crust Arrange the apples on top and sprinkle the streusel on top of the apples

7 Place in the oven on the middle rack and pour the hot water into the roasting pan so it comes halfway up the sides of the springform pan

8 Bake the cheesecake for 1frac12 hours Turn off the heat prop open the oven door and let the cheesecake hang inside for another hour

9 Carefully remove from the oven and take out the cheesecake from the hot water bath Remove the foil and let the cheesecake come to room temperature on a wire rack Cover the top lightly and refrigerate for at least 4 hours but overnight is best The next day remove the sides of the pan and serve the cake

Renee is a food writer and pastry chef living in beautiful Saskatoon Saskatchewan Her columns appear in The Saskatoon StarPhoenix and her desserts can be enjoyed at Riverside Country Club Also check out her blog wwwsweetsugarbeancom

The Toppings

Cheesecake with no fun toppings is like a salad with no dressing it just doesnrsquot reach its full flavour potential Try

ndash Salted caramel roasted strawberry sauce or warm chocolate sauce

ndash A rhubarbcardamom compote is divine on top of vanilla cheesecake kissed with a bit of lemon zest Cherry compote is divine with chocolate cheesecake

ndash Have a favourite jam Melt it down with a tiny bit of water and drizzle it on top of your favourite cheesecake

ndash Candied nuts and citrus rind chocolate shavings even crumbled cookies are a fun way to add texture to the cheesecake

ndash Never underestimate the power of fresh seasonal berries and a well-made cheesecakeMacerate them in a little sugar and minced mint or basil and they make a lovely topping Donrsquot forget the whipped cream

34

Think about that for a moment and let that sink in like a cherry in your drink

So how old is ice in bars Well thatrsquos a whole story on its own however the Old Fashioned has been talked about in one form or another since the beginning of the 19th Century The first appearance of this classic cocktail was in the Balance and Columbian Repository newspaper in 1806 as such ldquoA stimulating liquor composed of spirits of any kind sugar water and bittersrdquo

The Old FashionedAn Iconic Drink That Has Stood The Test Of Time

by BRICE PERESSINI

Sohelliphow old is the Old Fashioned The Old Fashioned is as old as ice in bars

When you follow these instructions and put this finely-crafted cocktail into your hand swirl around the ice gaze through the caramel-coloured liquid in the glass and contemplate all that has gone into it you can rest assured you are holding a drink that has delighted taste buds for generations The Old Fashioned however has not always been held in high regard There was a time not too long ago where this fine concoction was an unbalanced fruity watered-down pale imitation of itself More recently

there has been a renaissance involved with this invigorating intoxicant and you can and should expect a proper cocktail when it is ordered at a fine establishment

When this drink is properly prepared it should be in perfect balance (as any proper drink should be) The sweetness of the sugar should not cover the flavour of the bourbon and the bitters should add to not overpower the flavour of the whiskey When the Old Fashioned is well made it is as close to cocktail perfection as a sophisticated patron could expect

Befriend a bespoke barkeep at an upstanding establishment and you will be in trusted hands If you find yourself at home and wanting for a nightcap look no further than the Old Fashioned

Enjoy friends

Old Fashioned Recipe

2 oz Buffalo Trace Bourbon (or your personal favourite)4 dashes Angostura Aromatic Bitters1 raw sugar cube

Muddle the sugar and bitters together with a touch of warm water in a rocks glass Add the bourbon then add ice Stir and garnish with an orange peel and cherry (optional)

Brice is a competition cocktail bartender who plies his trade behind the wood at Chefbar Whisk(e)y is his poison Neat

35

Shoulder Season Wines

by JACLYN ADOMEIT

Wines For Cool Weather

Refreshing white wines match with sunny patios and hot days while bold tannic red wines earn their keep by a fireplace on a winter night Common sense But what about the shoulder season What if yoursquore eating sea bass on a rainy spring day Or sipping wine on a patio during an uncommonly warm April afternoon

Photograph courtesy Tom Firth

36

Wine not only pairs with food but with temperatures and seasons A bright sauvignon blanc can taste flat and acidic on a cold night at no fault of the wine or the drinker Some white wines are other-worldly at the vineyard tasting room in the summer but fall flat when you pull them out for dinner guests in the winter

The change in taste is likely due to a number of factors Anatomically it is your sinus cavities creating the change Higher atmospheric pressures allow your nose to pick out subtle aromas while lower pressures bring out a winersquos acidity and harsh tannins CO2 degasses from liquid at low pressure leaving wines dull and flat too

Serving temperature can greatly affect a winersquos aromatics white wines chilled to near-freezing have dull aromas (Tip allow the bottle a half hour on the counter before popping the cork This will allow the aromatics to warm up enhancing the flavour)

Lastly your own palate will be partial to different flavours depending on sun snow wind and sleet but as a rule of thumb higher alcohol white wines (approximately 13 percent or more) will warm the soul and pair best with cooler weather

Here are some wine selections to go for when it is not too hot and not too cold so you can choose a pairing thatrsquos just right

Fiano

Yoursquoll notice that many of the best white wines for cold weather are grown in hot places Hot climates mean a longer growing season more sugar which leads to higher alcohol and often more robust and tropical flavours All of this is true for fiano - seldom grown outside of Campania in southern Italy Fiano produces age-worthy wines which are rich nutty and delicious

Feudi Di San Gregorio 2014 Campania Fiano di Avellino Italy A beautiful floral bouquet with candied lemon followed by honey-coated hazelnuts on the palate Worth cellaring for a few seasons The perfect dance partner for poultry CSPC +708589 $33

Viognier

Viognier is a white varietal that is best consumed at slightly higher temperatures A chilly glass of viognier will leave you with acid maybe oak and not much else Allow it to warm and you may experience peach pear and toasted almond

Traditionally grown in the warm south of France viognier is often a higher alcohol white wine with rich tropical flavours The heat of the alcohol with tropical flavours and lower acid makes viognier the perfect wine to sip while watching a late spring snowfall

Paul Mas 2014 Languedoc-Roussillon Viognier France Brimming with apricot almond lemon and ripe peach Contains hints of warming oak Pair with something savoury baked brie or spinach-filled puff pastry CSPC + 740978 $17

Dry Roseacute

There is so much more to be had from roseacute than white zinfandel And no itrsquos not just a mix of red and white wine The best roseacute is made from red skinned grapes that only sit on their skins for up to a day and a half to borrow colour and flavour then are fermented and processed

Refined examples of roseacute wines are often dry and have deep aromas of red fruits mild tannins and are savoury instead of sweet The French and Spanish craft great examples of dry roseacutes that are either a single varietal or a blend of grapes such as mourvegravedre grenache syrah or tempranillo

Muga Roseacute 2014 Rioja Grenache Viura and Tempranillo Spain A tamed Rioja Orange blossom woven together with strawberry and a palate of cherry and savoury soft cheese Ideal for charcuterie CSPC + 710261 $16

Orange Wine

Never heard of orange wine A commercial demand for natural wines has fostered a resurgence in ancient wine making practices While roseacute wines are reds that have been produced using white wine making practices orange wines are created from white grapes submitted to maceration and allowed to sit on the skins before fermentation the same practice employed in red winemaking

Unlike any white you have tasted orange wines are full-bodied have mild tannins and deep flavours - the characteristics that allow red wines to bring warmth to cool nights A must try for any wine buff

Allow the bottle a half hour on the counter

before popping the cork

The Bicicleta wines are characterized by their fruity expression and for offering more than

the traditional strains a clear example of this range`s innovation style and creativity

Cono Sur Vineyards amp Winery ConoSurVineyards ConoSurWinesconosurcom

The brewhouse at Wild Rose

Jaclynrsquos first passion was winemaking Shersquos worked in vineyards cellars and restaurants Currently she is a writer who daylights as an environmental engineer She believes that a good life like a good wine is not complete without balance

Nichol 2013 Naramata Pinot Gris Canada A Canadian example of orange wine with backbone Flavours of caramel apple roast nuts orange rind and peach CSPC +504159 $31

Oaked chardonnay

In and out with popular palates oak and chardonnay have been partners for a long time Oak paired with chardonnay can bring out butter richness toasted vanilla tree fruit and in the best examples shimmering minerality That is because oak aging is often accompanied by a malolactic fermentation process that smooths out rigid acids into lactic acid - the acid found in milk

Chardonnay is a grape of many talents and encounters a great diversity of production styles It is oaked examples that pair best with pensive rainy days They are full-bodied warming and complex

Wente Morning Fog 2014 Livermore Valley (California) Chardonnay USA Half oak-aged and malolactic-fermented half crisp and fresh this chardonnay brings together green apple vanilla and toasted oak A friend to cream sauce and roast chicken CSPC +175430 $18

In a province of mutable weather let your wine choices be as varied as the ever changing winds Cheers and herersquos to refined full-bodied cool-weather wines

38

Once yoursquore done with your magazine cover shoot like we did this month or prepping for dinner and have all of those odds and ends just sitting on the cutting board - you know carrot ends onion skins tips of celery stalks you get the point - donrsquot toss lsquoem

Instead place them into a large ziploc bag and straight into the freezer After a couple of weeks yoursquoll likely have four full freezer bags of vegetable bits ready to be turned into broth and herersquos how you do it

Making a big batch of vegetable broth doesnrsquot always mean a trip to the grocery store All you need to do is save those scraps This is a handy trick I learned years ago courtesy of Bon Appetit

No-Waste Vegetable Broth

by DAN CLAPSON

Odds And Ends BrothYields 8 cups (2 L)

12 cups (3 L) water4 full ziploc bags of vegetable trimmings1 yellow onion quartered4 cloves garlicAromatics of choice (I usually toss a couple of rosemary and thyme sprigs in there)To taste Salt and pepper

1 Place all ingredients in a large pot and bring to a boil on medium-high heat

2 Reduce to medium heat and let simmer uncovered for 1frac12 hours

3 Strain season to taste with salt and pepper and use as desired

Full circlePizza amp Oyster Bar

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buck-a-shuck oysters

$1 oysters every night

9 pm - close Sunday-thursday 11 pm - close friday amp saturday

40

Salentein 2012 Reserve Chardonnay Uco Valley Argentina

Very very enjoyable chardonnay blowing me away with complexity varietal character and fine balance between oak lees and fruit Toffee baked apple tangerine and a little almond on the nose lead into silkily textured wine in the mouth Top shelf chardonnay that might be great with lobster tails mussels or poultry Around $20 CSPC +779479

Rutini 2013 Cabernet Malbec Mendoza Argentina

An exceptionally well put together blend - if you want rich berry fruits lots of body but maybe not tons of varietal characters from the individual components Lifted and bright fruits make for a very enjoyable glass Simply perfect for your next barbecue a roast or just chilling out with friends and family $26-30 CSPC +776822

Vinecol 2014 Organic Malbec Mendoza Argentina Fair Trade organic and vegan along with a good price is it still good Piles of fresh fruits (think smashed raspberries) with plenty of spice and soft herb-leaf aromas There are plenty of malbec flavours on the palate too Good for any day of the week with just a little tension between fruit tannin and acid it might be best with pub style burgers pulled pork or sausages About $16 CSPC +755296

Argentina is so much more than malbec While such a noble grape has found its best home in the high altitude vineyards of Argentina there is a lot going on with other grapes as well

Making The Case For Argentina

by TOM FIRTH

This massive country nestled up against the Andes mountains has a range of growing conditions suited to a number of grapes From Salta in the north to Patagonia in the south plenty of interesting wines are available here - many reasonably priced and of excellent quality So yes there are some

malbecs on these pages but please do try some of the other grapes and blends coming from Argentina too

Be sure to crack open a bottle of malbec on ldquoWorld Malbec Dayrdquo April 17 - who knows it might be nice enough to barbecue too

Photograph courtesy Tom Firth

41

Manos Negras 2011 Stone Soil Select Mendoza Argentina Quite new to the market this is a pretty enjoyable version of Argentinarsquos flagship grape Loads of blue fruit and raspberries with spices galore and a little compost Rich flavours lead to a lengthy spicy finish Yes please Bring to a barbecue if you can $21 CSPC +630541

Zuccardi 2012 Zeta Mendoza Argentina

A malbec-cabernet sauvignon blend that is also a blend of two different Mendoza appellations La Consulta and Gualtallary Deep and abundant fruit aromas with liquorice root and a touch of blueberry preserves Excellent balance of flavours on the palate too with the right structure and tannin for aging if desired Enjoy with a prime rib or even meaty pasta dishes or game $50-52 CSPC +740270

Zuccardi 2012 ldquoEmmardquo Bonarda Mendoza Argentina

In my humble opinion one of the finest bonardas coming out of Argentina Notes of coffee bean and espresso complement cherry and blackberry fruits with healthy balanced tannins to stand up to the tart fruits Delicious for sure enjoy at your next barbecue $40 CSPC +758407

Luigi Bosca 2011 Cabernet-Malbec Mendoza Argentina

A wonderfully earthy and savoury blend with plenty of tobacco spice leather and yes lots of fruit too The earthy flavours work well with the big dark chocolate flavours and weighty tannins Drink now or through 2020 or so - with a steak naturally $22-24 CSPC +766010

Trivento 2013 Golden Reserve Malbec Lujan de Cuyo Argentina While there is a trend to see a lot of premium malbecs move away from oak presence this one is a bold smooth and delicious example that is seeing about a year of oak All those berry fruits plums and herb notes malbec is known for along with the smoothness that only oak brings Kick back relax maybe cook up some steaks - enjoy About $24 CSPC +711402

Trivento 2014 Malbec Reserve Mendoza Argentina Nearly unbeatable for good malbec at a great price itrsquos rich and chocolatey on the nose with big fruits and oak tones too Mild garrigue notes or dried herb flavours with plenty of fruit and tannins - still showing a fine sense of balance Enjoy with beef $14 CSPC +730714

Luigi Bosca 2011 De Sangre Mendoza Argentina A blend of cabernet sauvignon merlot and syrah that manages to pull out the best of each varietal Earthy and slightly smoky with good fruits and plenty of versatility Tannins are well-placed against the fruits with a long smooth finish Irsquove been a fan of this wine year after year Good to keep a couple on hand in the cellar About $29 CSPC +745106

Salentein 2012 Numina Gran Corte Uco Valley Argentina A malbec-dominated Bordeaux blend this stunner is all about ripe fruits cedar pepper cherries and plum with a little tealeaf and the right amount of tannins Very very well balanced and like any great wine think about some food to go with it Beef tenderloin slow cooked meats or maybe at your next asadohellip About $40 CSPC +764706

Colonia Las Liebres 2013 Bonarda Mendoza Argentina Bear with me here - a fine bonarda with plenty of earthy smoky aromas leading to rubber charred cherries and cocoa Some pretty prominent tannins to be found as well but wow does it all come together A wine that just begs for duck with cranberries or maybe some kebabshellip$20 CSPC +773381

42

Open That Bottleby LINDA GARSON photography by INGRID KUENZEL

ldquoIf you work in a place and yoursquore miserable I donrsquot know if there is a dollar amount that can be attached to that The work that yoursquore doing has to be rewarding and challengingrdquo says Karen KhoGrowing up in Niagara Falls in a Philippino SpanishChinese family Kho was surrounded by food and drinks with an open door policy that has had a huge influence on the person she is today - an

entertainer who likes to make people feel welcome ldquoMy parents wanted me to be a lawyer there was definitely an encouragement to use my voice for goodrdquo she explains ldquoAnd I still think I help people but in a different way a very social wayrdquo

Graduating Western University with a political science degree in 2000 Kho spent a year travelling and living in Australia before taking a leap of faith and moving to Calgary Here she studied wine with the International Sommeliers Guild and WSET but says her real education was a job she adored working in the wine trade at BIN 905 in tandem with running wine programs for CRMR restaurants It was only when the opportunity came to create the wine program at Vin Room six years later that Kho leapt at the challenge of a new idea for the city and spent four happy years there

Eventually she and her partner decided to stretch their wings and went to Vancouver where Kho embarked on a six-month culinary course at the Pacific Institute of Culinary Arts ticking off another box on her bucket list ldquoI wanted a greater understanding of technique in the kitchen and I wanted an understanding of what service on a very basic level would look like if I ever owned my own place and ever had to be the person who filled inrdquo she says ldquoI feel if I was ever in a place that needed someone to chop onions Irsquom your womanrdquo she laughs

A year later the pair came back with the idea of eventually opening their own business in Calgary ldquoThe support we get from this community is heartfelt and this is a city of opportunity People with the right concept are seeing a lot of great success itrsquos still our game planrdquo she says Meanwhile Kho applied only to Teatro where she is now Group Service Director

ldquoI wanted to work at a place that had a challenging wine program and had a level of service with high expectations and where professional service teams

applyrdquo she says ldquoItrsquos pretty romantic to work for a company that has been built on a foundation of service Successful businesses in the restaurant industry get the grand picture which is the moments that yoursquore creating for people and I like to be a part of thatrdquo she adds

So what bottle is Kho saving for a special occasion

Paying homage to her time at BIN 905 Kho explains ldquoI have a bottle of 1996 Chateau Mouton Rothschild which was given to me with some very kind words on my last day at BIN Irsquove always just appreciated my time there it was where I learned the vernacular of wine and itrsquos my first job where I really saw the benefits of serving people with intentionrdquo She continues ldquoI always see it thankfully as the stepping-stone to a broader wine profession and eventually to the position that I have now It was given to me by very close friends that Irsquom still friends with to this dayrdquo

And when is she planning to open the wine

ldquoWhen (partner) Dave and I open our own restaurantrdquo Kho says This isnrsquot something that something that will happen tomorrow but fortunately the wine will last until theyrsquore ready

Charcoal-grilled prime cutsHand-muddled caipirinhas50+ salad bar optionsThree distinct private rooms

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(587) 354-3441

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Culinaire April 2016indd 2 2016-03-04 501 PM

17

Nemeth sold the cafeacute when a real estate developer made her an offer she couldnrsquot refuse but she still felt the urge to be around people and feed them So she set up shop in the markets - first the Market on MacLeod and then in January of 2015 she opened a stall in the rebranded Crossroads Market

Elizabeth Chorney-Booth is a Calgary-based writer and co-founderco-editor of RollingSpooncom and Wapawekkacom She enjoys exploring the connection between music and food through interviews with musicians and chefs

Primal Soup also sells lunch items like gourmet macaroni and cheese sandwiches and homemade pies and pastries so that market wanderers can stop by the stall and grab a full lunch while perusing the soup cooler for something to take home for a future meal

ldquoWhen yoursquore in a market you have to give people reasons to stoprdquo Nemeth says ldquoSo we offer things to go with the soup which also gives them ideas for what they can do at home Or sometimes theyrsquoll come for a sandwich and then theyrsquoll look at the soups You have to give people reasons to be in this spacerdquo

ldquoWe were pioneers and it was so much funrdquo

Whatever Nemeth is doing it seems to be working Between the two farmersrsquo markets and specialty retailers like the Market on 17th Sunnyside Market and SPUD delivery boxes Primal Soup Co sells over 1000 containers of soup every week Nemeth develops the recipes herself but has hired a full-time chef to keep up with the demand Personality and strategic stall locations in busy farmersrsquo markets alone isnrsquot enough to move that kind of volume of soup mdash while Nemeth has made smart business decisions over the course of Primalrsquos various incarnations the key to her success really lies in the product itself Everything is made from scratch without the aid of pre-bought soup bases and Nemeth uses seasonal ingredients (only 20 to 30 of her 50 soup varieties are ever available at any given time) supporting her neighbours at the markets when possible Her meat stocks are built from organic chicken bones Wintersrsquo turkey carcasses and duck bones from fellow market vendor Green Eggs and Ham to build a rich and delicious broth ldquoI layer my soupsrdquo Nemeth says ldquoI donrsquot just throw everything in the pot together And there has to be a twist in every one There has to be something

that you donrsquot expect mdash a surprise in every boxrdquo

To bring things full circle Nemeth has a new venture that just opened kitty corner to her Primal Soup stall in the Crossroads Market a beautiful and shiny new Primal Grounds coffee location With a long counter for people to sit at for as long as they like (Nemeth jokes that itrsquos the perfect place for bored spouses to sit while their partners shop the market) itrsquos an updated nod to what got Primal Soup started in the first place

And itrsquos also a testament to Nemethrsquos dedication to market life mdash the lack of control she has over her own hours and some other aspects arenrsquot perfect but the busyness the proximity to like-minded vendors and most of all the people she gets to interact with on a constant basis has put Nemeth exactly where she belongs ldquoYoursquore only as strong as the market is collectivelyrdquo she says ldquoItrsquos different than being a restaurant but I have to say itrsquos the funnest thing Irsquove ever donerdquo

ldquoThere has to be something that you donrsquot

expect mdash a surprise in every boxrdquo

18

Soup Kitchenstory and photography by DAN CLAPSON

The fresh hang-up-your-winter-jacket feeling is finally in the air ndash and that my friends is a wonderful thing Gone are the days where wersquove looked forward to spooning into a big bowl of creamy soup or sitting down to some chicken noodle soup to help shake off the winter sniffles These days Irsquom more concerned with light and bright flavours and less calorie-ridden meals

so I wonrsquot look completely undesirable in a swimsuit come June

Here are two great recipes that just happen to be vegan but are bursting with flavour

Serves 5 Total cook time 35 minutes

6 cups (15 L) vegetable broth1 cup (240 mL) white wine1 cup (240 mL) water2 Tbs (30 mL) tomato paste2 cups dry green lentils1 red onion halved and thinly sliced1 small fennel bulb halved and thinly sliced2 tsp (10 mL) maple syrup1 tsp dried oreganofrac12 tsp ground turmericfrac12 tsp chili flakesfrac12 tsp ground cinnamon1 pinch nutmeg2 cups thinly sliced red Swiss chardTo taste salt and pepper

1 Place broth wine water and tomato paste in a large pot and bring to a simmer on medium-high heat Add lentils and cook for 15 minutes

2 Add onion fennel maple syrup and spices and continue to cook for 15 minutes

Spiced Green Lentil and Chard Soup

3 Add Swiss chard and cook until leaves are tender about 2-3 minutes Season to taste with salt and pepper and serve

Dan Clapson is a freelance food writer and columnist in Calgary When hersquos not writing about Canadarsquos amazing culinary scene he is likely listening to 80s rock or 90s boy bands Follow him on twitter dansgoodside

Spinach and Cashew Soup with Poblano and Scallion Salsa

Serves 4 Total cook time 30 minutes not including cashew soak time

Soup1frac12 cups roasted cashews2 cups (500 mL) water4 cups (1 L) vegetable broth4 cups cooked spinach1 Tbs (15 mL) apple cider vinegar1 Tbs (15 mL) maple syrupfrac12 tsp cayenne peppersalt and pepper to tastecashew butter for garnish optional

1 Place cashews and water in a container cover and let sit on counter overnight

2 Combine cashews water and remaining soup ingredients in a blender and pureacutee until very smooth

3 Pour contents of blender through a fine mesh strainer into a medium pot Bring to a simmer on medium-high heat and cook for 15 minutes Season to taste with salt and pepper and keep warm on stove until ready to serve

4 Place a couple of spoonfuls of the salsa into each bowl and ladle soup around it Add a couple of dollops of cashew butter for a little extra richness

Salsa1 large poblano pepper halved and seeds removed1 bunch scallions2 Tbs (30 mL) canola oil2 Tbs fresh mint roughly chopped1 tsp (5 mL) lemon juicefrac12 tsp cane sugarfrac12 tsp chili flakessalt and pepper to taste

1 Preheat oven to 400ordm F

2 Place poblano halves and scallions on a baking sheet drizzle with oil and roast until slightly charred about 15-18 minutes

3 Remove from oven allow to cool slightly then give them a rough chop

4 Add to a bowl with remaining ingredients and toss to combine Season liberally with salt and pepper

20

Photograph courtesy California Wine Institute

Ever since Napa Valley cabernet sauvignons and chardonnays bested their more historic counterparts from Bordeaux and Burgundy in the now-famous Judgment of Paris tasting in 1976 California and its flagship region have carried the torch for the bold dense fruity lushly oaked wines that brought them worldwide fame

Forty years later this sun-drenched style of wines remains both unapologetically enjoyable and wildly popular and Napa is on the bucket list of any devoted wine tourist But as tastes and trends start to evolve away from a focus on power and concentration towards greater elegance and food-friendliness winemakers in California are again taking to the frontier gravitating towards the statersquos physical and climatic extremes to explore new boundaries of flavour and complexity Californiarsquos cooler corners

California Coolby PETER VETSCH

California is a land of frontiers dangling on the edge of the Pacific home of the Gold Rush and epicentre of the New Worldrsquos insurgence onto the global wine scene

are fast becoming its second face in the world of wine

Sonoma County north of San Francisco and just west of Napa is probably Californiarsquos second best-known region almost equally recognized for its cabernets chardonnays and zinfandels The largest subregion in the county taking up almost a third of its total area is the western Sonoma Coast too expansive at 500000 acres to have a distinct identity

However the western border of this appellation a razorrsquos edge straddling the ocean locally known as the ldquotruerdquo Sonoma Coast showcases the regionrsquos true character - extreme viticulture wet cool and always windy at elevations up to 2000 feet balanced on the San Andreas Fault with many vines growing above the fog line and constantly exposed to the throes of the Pacific Pinot noir takes on a unique expression here on low-yielding vines in the cool above the rest of Sonoma offering both remarkable purity of fruit and astonishing acidity and structure

Pinot is also predominant in the relatively new Santa Rita Hills subregion of the Santa Ynez Valley located an hour and a half northwest of Los Angeles and similarly perched right alongside the ocean The maritime influence dominates the microclimate and counteracts the California sun with fog and cool breezes to the point where this coastal spot becomes a near ideal substitute for chilly Burgundy Here the core Burgundian varietals of pinot noir and chardonnay thrive in a particularly striking edgy way

Santa Ynez is the only wine region in the western hemisphere where the arearsquos defining mountain range runs east-west instead of north-south creating a sort of maritime wind tunnel that sucks cold Pacific air eastward This leads to some of the largest diurnal (day to night) temperature shifts in North America and allows inland grapes ripening in the scorching daytime heat to recharge and maintain acidity at night This special geological feature allows a wide range of reds in Santa Ynez to be juicy but still structured bold yet balanced from cabernet and merlot to syrah and grenache

Halfway between the Sonoma Coast to the north and the Santa Rita Hills to the south along yet another coastline

California can comfortably both provide continuity

and defy stereotype

Wine Picks

Peter is a local lawyer by day and wine writer by night maintaining his own wine blog at popandpourca He is always on the lookout for the next way to experience wine and the next good bottle to try

A LITTLE SIBLING RIVALRY NEVER HURT ANYBODY

FOUR SETTINGS ONE PHILOSOPHY crmrcom338 - 17th Avenue SW

c i l a n t ro

747 Lake Bonavista Dr SE113 - 8th Avenue SW 340 - 17th Avenue SW

Sequoia Grove 2012 Cabernet Sauvignon (Napa Valley)Textbook cabernet from Naparsquos heart of Rutherford with deep black fruit mint and cedarhellip and a survivable price tag CSPC +740382 $56

Hartford Court Landrsquos Edge Vineyard Pinot Noir (Sonoma Coast)The ferocity of the Sonoma Coast somehow creates the picture of elegance in this juicy yet delicate pinot CSPC +717210 $60

Domaine de la Cote 2013 Pinot Noir (Sta Rita Hills) Seriously pushes the boundaries picked almost insanely early for low-alcohol herbal pomegranate and rhubarb acidic tension and energy CSPC +761893 $58

Alice May Crosswinds Syrah (Santa Ynez Valley) A syrahviognier Cote Rotie-style co-ferment that matches Cali ripeness with surprising verve and delicacy CSPC +761131 $28

Ridge 2013 Geyserville (Santa Cruz Mountains)This will change your expectations of zinfandel A zin-heavy field blend it combines the best of its mountain altitude and the California sun CSPC +426379 $55

just south of San Jose the wineries of the Santa Cruz Mountains prove again that those seeking to make modern moderate wines in California head both west and up The highest vineyards in Santa Cruz despite being just miles from the ocean are at 2600 feet this significant altitude and the cool Pacific climate results in chiseled wines with controlled ripeness and serious staying power

The region is both expansive and miniscule with only 1500 of its 480000 acres currently planted to grapes and its very-California plantings (cabernet chardonnay pinot noir zinfandel and merlot) all take on an Old World character and rusticity from its rugged terrain and stony mineral-laden soils Despite the challenges associated with growing grapes on a cool rock face Santa Cruz is a state leader in sustainable growing practices

The friendly sunny face of California wine is surely here to stay but Santa Cruz Santa Ynez and the Sonoma Coast are permanent proof that the state is readily capable of more than one expression With its range of climate and terrain California can comfortably both provide continuity and defy stereotype

22

En GardeA Beginnerrsquos Guide To Knives And Their Usesby ANNA BROOKS

Itrsquos difficult to imagine that sharp little number thatrsquos slicing away to the rhythm of your favourite cooking music (or to the beating of child-size fists hungry for dinner) was more often used for combat not chopping carrots

Despite King Louis XIVrsquos decree that the tips of knives be ground down to reduce violence in the mid-1600s kitchen knives still (for quite pointed reasons) make popular murder weapons

But we wonrsquot get into grisly stories of guts and gore here Whether yoursquore a chef extraordinaire or the person whose knife knowledge goes as far as cutting

vegetables with a steak knife there are some things everyone should know about knives

The first major thing we must insist upon is putting down that expensive 14-piece knife set As most knife experts can attest to three main knives can cover almost all the work that a layman cook needs to do in the kitchen

23

Three main knives can cover almost all the work that a layman cook needs

to do in the kitchen

Chefrsquos Knife Your standard knife for mincing and slicing vegetables and meat a chefrsquos knife is typically 20-25 cm long but can range all the way up to 36 cm

Luke Pickett from Knifewear is a sight to see wielding some wickedly sharp

handcrafted Japanese models but despite their carnivorous look Pickett said therersquos really nothing to fear

ldquoThere are a lot of people who are scared of really large knivesrdquo Pickett said ldquoBut having good quality kitchen equipment will make your life easierrdquo

For beginners a standard 20 cm chefrsquos knife (although Pickett said blade length is purely based on personal preference) is best to start with but a Japanese Santoku knife mdash an elegant slightly smaller version of a chefrsquos knife mdash will certainly get the job er meal done

Paring KnifeOn the other side of the knife spectrum is the pocket-sized paring knife (note carrying knives in pockets not recommended)

Regan Johnson assistant manager at The Cookbook Co said besides what the individual using a steak knife to cut everything might think the small intricate work required of a paring knife (such as peeling and trimming) should not be done on a cutting board

ldquoParing is anything you can be doing in the air mdash yoursquore not ever supposed to use a paring knife on a boardrdquo she explained

Johnson added that for someone like herself who does almost as much blade-wielding as a samurai she also recommends a utility knife

which is a hybrid of a chefrsquos knife and a paring knife

ldquoI reach for my utility knife a lotrdquo she said ldquoItrsquos got that shape of a paring knife but is longer Itrsquos just for those things in between that you donrsquot need your giant chefrsquos knife forrdquo

Bread KnifeThe last of the big three is of course a bread knife Have you ever tried to cut a loaf of bread with a straight blade Not so easy (or safe) a task

Itrsquos sometimes difficult to do but no matter the type of knife yoursquore using itrsquos important to try and slice as opposed to chopping or sawing It

is quite tempting (and often seems easier) to saw away at the crispy crust of a floured loaf of sourdough but Knifewearrsquos Pickett said sawing can

be a slippery slope to your bread knifersquos grave

ldquoIf you slice you can use the entire blade and itrsquos a lot sharper along the edgerdquo he explained ldquoItrsquos important to get a good bread knife because you canrsquot sharpen them like you can any other sort of kniferdquo

The Big Three

24

Having good quality kitchen equipment will

make your life easier

Anna Brooks is an award-winning journalist from Calgary Alberta She has worked internationally in Thailand and Africa and has been published in Metro BeatRoute Magazine and the Calgary Journal She also enjoys animal rights fantasy fiction and whiskey sours

Tips and TricksOf course you can adorn your kitchen with the countless others belonging to the knife family mdash cleavers carvers boning knives cheese knives etc mdash but if yoursquore not planning on hacking through solid bone anytime soon you probably donrsquot need to spend $200 on a meat cleaver

But there are some other knife-related implements that are important to have in your kitchen

First off a proper cutting board While plastic cutting boards are versatile and can be chucked in the dishwasher wood is really the best way to go Cutting boards are the quickest way to ruin a knife so steer clear of fancy-looking glass or granite boards mdash they are the antagonists of our story

Itrsquos also not a bad idea to have a knife honer on hand As a reminder (or for

those who had no idea what that random rod in the kitchen was used for) honers are for honing not sharpening

ldquoWith use the metal fibres in a knife edge can get bent to one side or another All yoursquore doing with honing is straightening those fibres back outrdquo Johnson from The Cookbook Co explained ldquoSharpening means yoursquore actually removing material and grinding the metal down to a finer edgerdquo

Johnson added that while you can sharpen at home she always recommends getting your knives sharpened professionally at least once a year depending on how much theyare used

Before you go back to making your lazy-day grilled cheese sandwich or that complex stew yoursquove spent hours on we just want to remind you of whatrsquos called ldquothe pinch griprdquo

Not to sound snobbish but grabbing a knife by the handle and hacking away is poor form Use your thumb and index finger to grasp the blade and then wrap your remaining fingers under the bolster of the knife Shape your other hand into a claw to protect your fingertips from accidentally getting lopped off firmly grasp the object to be cut and slice away

If this knowledge was present in the 17th century perhaps old King Louis XIV would be tipping his crown to more cooks not kitchen knife combatants

25

Times Are A Changing Unexpected Take-Outs

by LINDA GARSON and DIANA NG photography by INGRID KUENZEL

Therersquos no denying that many of our cityrsquos restaurants are feeling the effects of the current economic downturn fewer people working downtown ndash indeed fewer people working altogether and so looking to save money by eating out less means many bricks and mortar restaurants are having to get creative with ways to fully utilise their kitchens and staff

High rents exacerbate the situation so itrsquos time for Calgary restaurateurs to think outside the box and proving to be the innovative entrepreneurs that wersquore known for many are diversifying their offerings to include take-out options both raw and cooked

Catch amp The Oyster Bar launched their ldquoBuy Catchrdquo program where you can pick up fresh Ocean Wise seafood to take home and cook (complete with recipes) along with house-made clam chowder and sauces nearly two years ago There are big savings to be had over dining in with no costs for linen or staff and no expectation to tip

Here are four Calgary eateries also getting clever with take-out

programs that are not widely publicised - and may

open a few eyes

26

Centini Restaurant

Itrsquos not a cookie cutter program but the magic of Centinirsquos take-out is that you can ask the kitchen for ideas of what you should have for dinner People even text the servers for suggestions and to order Loyal customers mostly busy businessmen were asking if they catered but without the staff for such a service Centini started offering to prepare dishes for them to cook themselves

Now you can get your favourite restaurant dishes from rack of lamb with red wine demi-glace AAA Alberta beef tenderloin with Gorgonzola pan sauce and sea bass with ginger cream sauce ready to cook at home ldquoWersquore not going to open a bricks and mortar restaurant down south but our food is going thererdquo says Chevonne Centini Theyrsquore seeing pick-ups such as for people stuck at home with a new baby and even 40 people for a funeral

Boxwood

Itrsquos hard to believe that the quality of food coming from the sister restaurant to River Cafe can be had at home and we are not talking about leftovers When

People take home uncooked homemade pasta with sauce separately and even bread dough and often freeze it to cook later or pick up on a Friday evening so everything is prepared ready for Saturday dinner When buying from a restaurant yoursquore getting top quality perfectly trimmed meat everything is done for you - therersquos no shopping

around and even the parsley is chopped And as everything is custom-made all allergies are catered for too

Centini gets fish delivered once or twice every day and it may come as a surprise but with a chef garde manger that spent 15 years in Japan they have customers coming just to take out sushi

you go home to an empty fridge it feels like the only options you have are fast food or pizza Not so

Boxwoodrsquos fresh and seasonal fare is also available to take home While you wonrsquot

be able to enjoy the quaint atmosphere of the restaurant you can order anything on the menu for take out with its special offering being the whole rotisserie free-range chicken which serves two to four people for $40

Many bricks and mortar restaurants are

having to get creative with ways to fully utilise their

kitchens and staff

You will need to call a few hours ahead (the website states before 200 pm) for enough notice for the chicken but for the rest of the selection like its soups and sandwiches you can simply look up the menu online and call to place an order For a perfect night in may we suggest starting with its bison tartare then moving onto the porchetta and another main before finishing off the meal with a slice of pie

27

Gaucho

For most people the elaborate setup of Brazilian barbecue is one of its biggest attractions You may not know this and while you may not be able to take home the lively decor of Gaucho you can actually take the meal home

The spit packed tightly with freshly roasted meats the sign at the table that signals yoursquore ready for more and the roasted and caramelized pineapple that tops off the meal all contribute to the atmosphere but if all you want are the meats and sides for a hefty dinner you can certainly order the meal as a take-out

Order any of the four options (top sirloin pork loin chicken wings or mild sausage) and add three sides from the list of eight which includes a variety of salads black bean stew and rice And because you canrsquot just have one kind of meat when it comes to Brazilian barbecue you can choose additional

Safari Grill

The marinated thinly sliced BBQ short beef ribs at Safari Grill are already a must-have for those in the know but we suspect even regulars will be surprised to discover that you can pick

up uncooked ribs with your choice of seven marinades to take home and BBQ yourself

With none of the associated costs of dining in $65 buys you enough ribs for 10 people and customers actually drive

meats for $4 each Finally choose the sauce yoursquod like to accompany your meal Orders for over five people will come in a big white box and individual

orders come will in regular take-out containers For big parties do call a few hours ahead All you need to make at home is the caipirinha

from Saskatchewan to take away 10-15 lb bags of these uncooked marinated ribs Some people call and ask for them to be marinated and frozen in 5 lb bags to enjoy later as just 5-7 minutes each side on a high flame has the raw ribs ready to eat

And itrsquos not only ribs that people BBQ at home Mishkaki are skewers of marinated chicken beef and prawns and for as little as $3 each you can have a very inexpensive BBQ feast Marinated raw lamb chops are also available or ask for Samaki - a marinated whole tilapia that comes with a basting sauce to brush on You can even get uncooked samosas to cook in your oven at home

All Safari Grillrsquos regular menu can be ordered for take-out but there is no published price list for uncooked dishes so people call to order and ask - but when yoursquore picking up look out for the new jars of house-made mango and lemon pickles

28

Step By Step Go Nuts With Homemade Nutella And Waffles story and photography by NATALIE FINDLAY

There are many nutritional benefits packed into these small filberts They are rich in dietary fibre packed with folate an excellent source of vitamin E and contain mono-unsaturated fatty acids that

can help lower bad cholesterol and raise good cholesterol By making your own Nutella at home you can control the amount of sugar that is added making this delicious spread basicallyhellip a health food

Hazelnuts have a tried and true following for taking the lead role in the chocolate spread Nutella This long-standing love affair has lasted simply because they add a distinct but subtle flavour to the chocolate Truly a match that is better together than apart

These delicious and super-easy waffles make a great base for your homemade Nutella With the addition of ground hazelnuts to the batter you can deepen the hazelnut flavour and pack in more health benefits

Waffles with raspberries and white chocolate spread

29

Natalie is a freelance writer photographer and pastry chef A graduate of Cordon Bleursquos pastry program she manages her own business too to create custom-made cakes

Using the same waffle recipe from above and switching out the mashed banana and adding frac12 a medium orange ndash juice and zest ndash to the batter you have a delicious orange waffle that will highlight the white chocolate hazelnut spread recipe below

Homemade White Chocolate Hazelnut Spread Makes 1frac12 cups

1frac12 cups (200 g) whole hazelnutsfrac12 cup (70 g) icing sugar2 Tbs (30 mL) canola oil1 tsp (5 mL) vanilla extract1 cup (250g) white chocolate

Follow directions for Homemade Nutella and add the melted white chocolate at the end Pulse to combine

Macerated Raspberries with Orange Serves 6

250 g fresh raspberriesfrac12 medium orange zest and juice1 Tbs icing sugarfrac12 tsp vanilla extract

Add all ingredients into a medium bowl and stir to combine Let sit for about 1 hour

Serve your warm waffles topped with your white chocolate homemade hazelnut spread macerated berries and a dollop of whipped cream or ice cream

Note Homemade Nutella has more texture than store bought and will last around 1 month in the fridge Waffles can be made ahead and frozen Thaw and reheat in the waffle maker or the oven

Banana Fruit compoteMakes enough for 6

3 ripe bananas peeled sliced into rounds2 Tbs (30 g) butter2 Tbs (30 g) brown sugar1frac12 tsp (8 mL) vanilla extract1frac12 tsp (8 mL) bourbon

1 Add butter and sugar to a sauteacute pan over medium heat As they melt stir to combine

2 Add vanilla and bourbon than add sliced bananas and sauteacute until warmed through

Serve your warm waffles topped with your homemade hazelnut spread sauteacuteed bananas and a dollop of whipped cream or ice cream

Homemade Nutella Makes 1frac12 cups

1frac12 cups (200 g) whole hazelnutsfrac34 cup (100g) icing sugar3 Tbs (45 mL) canola oilfrac14 cup (30 g) cocoa powder1 tsp (5 mL) vanilla extract

1 Toast hazelnuts on a baking pan in a preheated 350ordm F oven for 10 - 15 minutes Keep an eye on them to make sure they donrsquot start to burn Remove from oven and let cool to the touch

2 Wrap the nuts in a kitchen towel and rub together to remove the skins This should remove most of the skins

3 Place skinless hazelnuts in a food processor on high Process the nuts until they form a smooth paste and the oils start to separate (about 5 minutes) scraping the bowl often

4 Add the icing sugar cocoa powder vanilla and canola oil to the food processor and process until fully incorporated scraping bowl of processor as needed (about 2 minutes)

Hazelnut Banana WafflesMakes 6

frac12 cup (80 g) all purpose flour1 tsp baking powderfrac12 tsp baking sodaPinch sea salt1 Tbs (15 g) icing sugar1 Tbs (10 g) ground hazelnuts6 grates whole nutmeg1 tsp ground cinnamonfrac12 cup (125 mL) buttermilk1 egg yolk2 Tbs (30 g) butter meltedfrac12 small banana peeled and mashed1 egg white

1 Sift together all dry ingredients (except the ground hazelnuts) in a medium bowl Add the ground hazelnuts and combine

2 Mash the half banana in a small bowl with a fork Add the egg buttermilk and melted butter

3 Whisk the egg white to stiff peaks

4 Whisk the wet ingredients into the dry and fold the egg white into the mixture

5 Follow the directions for your waffle pan to cook waffles for around 5 minutes or until cooked through

Note Remember to bring the waffle pan up to temperature in between each batch of waffles

Hazelnut Banana Waffles with Nutella

30

Citrus Beer Friendsby DAVID NUTTALL

This is when the taste andor aroma of a beer can remind the drinker of anything from an orange drink or lemonade to grapefruit soda There are several ways to achieve this character and these beers are becoming more and more popular every day

Hops provide the bitterness in beer and out of the literally hundreds of varieties a few impart citrus notes into the aroma and flavour Cascade and Citra are examples of two of the most popular hops used in several styles of beer most notably the American IPA or India Pale Ale Cascade hops have been around for over 40 years and it is the single most popular hop used by the American craft brewing industry It provides a floralspicy character often reminiscent of grapefruit

Citrarsquos name leaves no guessing as to its attributes A relative newcomer this cross breed of UK German and US hop varieties has been around for less than a decade but it is already an extremely popular hop for imparting

One of the great things about beer is its diversity It can come in a myriad of colours and also a wide variety of flavours citrus being one of the most distinct

Dave Nuttall has been in the liquor and event business forever He is a qualified beer judge and ownerpresident of Epicurean Calgary at epicureancalgarycom for ten years

citrus and tropical fruit characteristics to a beer

It has proven very versatile and appears in several beer styles from session ales to IPAs It has also become a favourite hop to use for dry-hopping (adding hops late into the boil) due to the exceptional aromas it produces For even more flavour and aroma craft brewers now commonly enhance these already citrusy IPAs with actual zest peel or juice from citrus fruits to create an IPAFruit Beer hybrid which sells especially well in summer months

Then there is the yeast and many varieties of yeast can produce citrusy esters The unfiltered hefeweizens brewed on both sides of the Atlantic quite often have a lemony flavour Sour beers also showcase the yeast often cultured from Belgian strains

These beers are tart and produce a gamut of flavours many with citrus qualities and some have added fruit - the easiest and most obvious way to create a citrusy beer The Belgians also add different kinds of oranges with spice additions to their wheat ales to create wit beers now emulated all over the world with different citrus (and other) fruits involved in the recipe We also canrsquot forget the radlers which are simply a lager beer mixed with 40-60 fruit juice - often grapefruit or lemonade

Whether itrsquos added fruit the yeast the hops or a combination of all of them citrusy beers are commonplace now Thanks to new hops like Citra and the increasing popularity of wits and sours we can expect this trend to continue

Here are a few local beers with hints of citrus All are also available on tap

Beer comes in a myriad of colours and flavours citrus being one of the

most distinct

Ribstone Creek Great White CombineThis tiny Edgerton Alberta brewery has been knocking it out of the park lately Named after the ubiquitous Alberta summer hailstorm the use of Belgian yeast sweet orange peel and coriander give this beer an orange flavour in the beginning When the four different hop additions kick in it changes more to a sweet lemony flavour This White IPA has a very tropical feel that makes you forget it was made in northern Alberta CSPC +774162 $16 6-pack cans

Wild Rose Cowbell Sour ales are the new Belle of the Ball at craft breweries Often using imported Belgian yeast strains they are tart tangy and wellhellip sour Calgaryrsquos Wild Rose has taken this flavour profile and added kaffir lime leaves This makes the beer more like a refreshing limeade and is less bitter than many of its other sour counterparts CSPC +778093 $17 6-pack bottles

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VENUEBMO CENTRE STAMPEDE PARK

TICKETS AVAILABLE AT ALBERTABEERFESTIVALSCOM

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Citradelic Single Hop IPA Big Rock BreweryWith breweries in two (soon to be three) provinces Big Rock now has multiple locations to develop new beers This is the first one from their Vancouver brewery and is full of lemongrapefruit flavours and tropical aromas This beer showcases the Citra hop fooling one to think that citrus has been added when itrsquos all thanks to the hop CSPC +778593 $15 6-pack bottles

Alley Kat Main SqueezeWhat started out as a summer seasonal has now become a mainstay of this Edmonton brewery A North American style wheat ale with a 50 wheat and 50 barley mix it has added grapefruit juice but tastes more along the lines of pink grapefruit rather than its more bitter cousin CSPC +733630 $17 6-pack bottles

32

story by RENEE KOHLMAN

Cheesecake is one of those classic desserts that almost everyone loves unless of course you have a dairy allergy then yoursquoll stay far far away from it While it may seem too complicated to make at home I assure you that itrsquos not

Spice it up cheesecake

Sure there are a few steps involved but the key thing to remember is to have your eggs and cream cheese at room temperature For the best crack-free cheesecake itrsquos best to bake it in a water bath It yields a light creamy texture and is well worth the effort Cheesecake always tastes better the next day so bake it the day before you want to serve it Now that wersquove got the basics down itrsquos time to have a little fun with the crust filling and toppings

The Base

The classic graham cracker crust is fine but every now and again itrsquos great to switch things up Try

ndash Grinding up ginger cookies They work especially well for a pumpkin cheesecake

ndash Chocolate cookie crumbs are fantastic for caramel peanut butter and raspberry cheesecakes

ndash Add finely chopped nuts oats or seeds to the cookie crumbs for added texture and taste

The Middle

Therersquos something to be said for a straight up vanilla or chocolate cheesecake but with some fun add-ins they could take your cheesecake to the next level of deliciousness Try

ndash Swirling tahini dulce de leche salted caramel or chocolate fudge sauce into a creamy vanilla filling

ndash Mix in chopped chocolate peanut butter cups to a chocolate filling

ndash Drop fresh berries (raspberries blueberries blackberries) on top of a vanilla filling

ndash Stir in chopped candied ginger dried cherries or cranberries chopped toasted nuts to the filling

ndash Swap some of the cream cheese with ricotta mascarpone cheese or even strained cottage cheese

ndash You can never go wrong with lemon zest in a vanilla cheesecake

Have a little fun with the crust filling

and toppings

33

Apple Crumble CheesecakeMakes about 12-14 servings Total cook and prep time 3 hours (plus overnight chilling)

I love apple crisp and I love cheesecake This recipe is a fine marriage of both and makes a more than acceptable breakfast The base is a crumble of oats and flour the middle is classic cheesecake and itrsquos topped with cinnamon apples and a buttery oat streusel

Crust 2 cups large flake oats1 cup all purpose flour cup packed brown sugarfrac34 cup butter meltedfrac12 tsp salt

Cheesecake Layer3 - 225 g packages cream cheese at room temperature cup granulated sugar1 tsp (5 mL) vanilla3 large eggs at room temperature cup (80 mL) whipping cream

Apple Layer2 apples peeled cored and sliced about 3-4 mm thick1 tsp ground cinnamonfrac12 tsp salt

Streusel Layer1 cup large flake oatsfrac12 cup all-purpose flourfrac12 cup brown sugarfrac12 cup butter softened1 tsp ground cinnamon

Preheat the oven to 375ordm F

1 Butter the bottom and sides of a 9-inch springform pan with sides that are at least 7 cm high Wrap the bottom of the pan in aluminum foil so it comes at least halfway up the sides

2 Combine the crust ingredients in a large bowl Press the crust evenly into the pan and place on a baking sheet Bake for 10 minutes Remove from oven and let it cool on a wire rack

3 Reduce heat to 325ordm F Put a kettle of water on to boil Have a large roasting pan close by

4 Using a stand mixer with a paddle attachment beat the cream cheese at medium speed for 4 minutes scraping down the sides once or twice until it is soft and creamy With the mixer still running add the sugar and beat for another 4 minutes scraping down the sides of the bowl at least twice Beat in the vanilla Add the eggs one at a time beating for 1 minute after each addition and scraping the bowl Reduce speed to low and add the whipping cream

5 Toss the sliced apples with the cinnamon and salt in a small bowl Combine all of the streusel ingredients in a medium bowl and mix well

6 Place the springform pan in the roasting pan Give the cheesecake batter a good stir and pour it on top of the crust Arrange the apples on top and sprinkle the streusel on top of the apples

7 Place in the oven on the middle rack and pour the hot water into the roasting pan so it comes halfway up the sides of the springform pan

8 Bake the cheesecake for 1frac12 hours Turn off the heat prop open the oven door and let the cheesecake hang inside for another hour

9 Carefully remove from the oven and take out the cheesecake from the hot water bath Remove the foil and let the cheesecake come to room temperature on a wire rack Cover the top lightly and refrigerate for at least 4 hours but overnight is best The next day remove the sides of the pan and serve the cake

Renee is a food writer and pastry chef living in beautiful Saskatoon Saskatchewan Her columns appear in The Saskatoon StarPhoenix and her desserts can be enjoyed at Riverside Country Club Also check out her blog wwwsweetsugarbeancom

The Toppings

Cheesecake with no fun toppings is like a salad with no dressing it just doesnrsquot reach its full flavour potential Try

ndash Salted caramel roasted strawberry sauce or warm chocolate sauce

ndash A rhubarbcardamom compote is divine on top of vanilla cheesecake kissed with a bit of lemon zest Cherry compote is divine with chocolate cheesecake

ndash Have a favourite jam Melt it down with a tiny bit of water and drizzle it on top of your favourite cheesecake

ndash Candied nuts and citrus rind chocolate shavings even crumbled cookies are a fun way to add texture to the cheesecake

ndash Never underestimate the power of fresh seasonal berries and a well-made cheesecakeMacerate them in a little sugar and minced mint or basil and they make a lovely topping Donrsquot forget the whipped cream

34

Think about that for a moment and let that sink in like a cherry in your drink

So how old is ice in bars Well thatrsquos a whole story on its own however the Old Fashioned has been talked about in one form or another since the beginning of the 19th Century The first appearance of this classic cocktail was in the Balance and Columbian Repository newspaper in 1806 as such ldquoA stimulating liquor composed of spirits of any kind sugar water and bittersrdquo

The Old FashionedAn Iconic Drink That Has Stood The Test Of Time

by BRICE PERESSINI

Sohelliphow old is the Old Fashioned The Old Fashioned is as old as ice in bars

When you follow these instructions and put this finely-crafted cocktail into your hand swirl around the ice gaze through the caramel-coloured liquid in the glass and contemplate all that has gone into it you can rest assured you are holding a drink that has delighted taste buds for generations The Old Fashioned however has not always been held in high regard There was a time not too long ago where this fine concoction was an unbalanced fruity watered-down pale imitation of itself More recently

there has been a renaissance involved with this invigorating intoxicant and you can and should expect a proper cocktail when it is ordered at a fine establishment

When this drink is properly prepared it should be in perfect balance (as any proper drink should be) The sweetness of the sugar should not cover the flavour of the bourbon and the bitters should add to not overpower the flavour of the whiskey When the Old Fashioned is well made it is as close to cocktail perfection as a sophisticated patron could expect

Befriend a bespoke barkeep at an upstanding establishment and you will be in trusted hands If you find yourself at home and wanting for a nightcap look no further than the Old Fashioned

Enjoy friends

Old Fashioned Recipe

2 oz Buffalo Trace Bourbon (or your personal favourite)4 dashes Angostura Aromatic Bitters1 raw sugar cube

Muddle the sugar and bitters together with a touch of warm water in a rocks glass Add the bourbon then add ice Stir and garnish with an orange peel and cherry (optional)

Brice is a competition cocktail bartender who plies his trade behind the wood at Chefbar Whisk(e)y is his poison Neat

35

Shoulder Season Wines

by JACLYN ADOMEIT

Wines For Cool Weather

Refreshing white wines match with sunny patios and hot days while bold tannic red wines earn their keep by a fireplace on a winter night Common sense But what about the shoulder season What if yoursquore eating sea bass on a rainy spring day Or sipping wine on a patio during an uncommonly warm April afternoon

Photograph courtesy Tom Firth

36

Wine not only pairs with food but with temperatures and seasons A bright sauvignon blanc can taste flat and acidic on a cold night at no fault of the wine or the drinker Some white wines are other-worldly at the vineyard tasting room in the summer but fall flat when you pull them out for dinner guests in the winter

The change in taste is likely due to a number of factors Anatomically it is your sinus cavities creating the change Higher atmospheric pressures allow your nose to pick out subtle aromas while lower pressures bring out a winersquos acidity and harsh tannins CO2 degasses from liquid at low pressure leaving wines dull and flat too

Serving temperature can greatly affect a winersquos aromatics white wines chilled to near-freezing have dull aromas (Tip allow the bottle a half hour on the counter before popping the cork This will allow the aromatics to warm up enhancing the flavour)

Lastly your own palate will be partial to different flavours depending on sun snow wind and sleet but as a rule of thumb higher alcohol white wines (approximately 13 percent or more) will warm the soul and pair best with cooler weather

Here are some wine selections to go for when it is not too hot and not too cold so you can choose a pairing thatrsquos just right

Fiano

Yoursquoll notice that many of the best white wines for cold weather are grown in hot places Hot climates mean a longer growing season more sugar which leads to higher alcohol and often more robust and tropical flavours All of this is true for fiano - seldom grown outside of Campania in southern Italy Fiano produces age-worthy wines which are rich nutty and delicious

Feudi Di San Gregorio 2014 Campania Fiano di Avellino Italy A beautiful floral bouquet with candied lemon followed by honey-coated hazelnuts on the palate Worth cellaring for a few seasons The perfect dance partner for poultry CSPC +708589 $33

Viognier

Viognier is a white varietal that is best consumed at slightly higher temperatures A chilly glass of viognier will leave you with acid maybe oak and not much else Allow it to warm and you may experience peach pear and toasted almond

Traditionally grown in the warm south of France viognier is often a higher alcohol white wine with rich tropical flavours The heat of the alcohol with tropical flavours and lower acid makes viognier the perfect wine to sip while watching a late spring snowfall

Paul Mas 2014 Languedoc-Roussillon Viognier France Brimming with apricot almond lemon and ripe peach Contains hints of warming oak Pair with something savoury baked brie or spinach-filled puff pastry CSPC + 740978 $17

Dry Roseacute

There is so much more to be had from roseacute than white zinfandel And no itrsquos not just a mix of red and white wine The best roseacute is made from red skinned grapes that only sit on their skins for up to a day and a half to borrow colour and flavour then are fermented and processed

Refined examples of roseacute wines are often dry and have deep aromas of red fruits mild tannins and are savoury instead of sweet The French and Spanish craft great examples of dry roseacutes that are either a single varietal or a blend of grapes such as mourvegravedre grenache syrah or tempranillo

Muga Roseacute 2014 Rioja Grenache Viura and Tempranillo Spain A tamed Rioja Orange blossom woven together with strawberry and a palate of cherry and savoury soft cheese Ideal for charcuterie CSPC + 710261 $16

Orange Wine

Never heard of orange wine A commercial demand for natural wines has fostered a resurgence in ancient wine making practices While roseacute wines are reds that have been produced using white wine making practices orange wines are created from white grapes submitted to maceration and allowed to sit on the skins before fermentation the same practice employed in red winemaking

Unlike any white you have tasted orange wines are full-bodied have mild tannins and deep flavours - the characteristics that allow red wines to bring warmth to cool nights A must try for any wine buff

Allow the bottle a half hour on the counter

before popping the cork

The Bicicleta wines are characterized by their fruity expression and for offering more than

the traditional strains a clear example of this range`s innovation style and creativity

Cono Sur Vineyards amp Winery ConoSurVineyards ConoSurWinesconosurcom

The brewhouse at Wild Rose

Jaclynrsquos first passion was winemaking Shersquos worked in vineyards cellars and restaurants Currently she is a writer who daylights as an environmental engineer She believes that a good life like a good wine is not complete without balance

Nichol 2013 Naramata Pinot Gris Canada A Canadian example of orange wine with backbone Flavours of caramel apple roast nuts orange rind and peach CSPC +504159 $31

Oaked chardonnay

In and out with popular palates oak and chardonnay have been partners for a long time Oak paired with chardonnay can bring out butter richness toasted vanilla tree fruit and in the best examples shimmering minerality That is because oak aging is often accompanied by a malolactic fermentation process that smooths out rigid acids into lactic acid - the acid found in milk

Chardonnay is a grape of many talents and encounters a great diversity of production styles It is oaked examples that pair best with pensive rainy days They are full-bodied warming and complex

Wente Morning Fog 2014 Livermore Valley (California) Chardonnay USA Half oak-aged and malolactic-fermented half crisp and fresh this chardonnay brings together green apple vanilla and toasted oak A friend to cream sauce and roast chicken CSPC +175430 $18

In a province of mutable weather let your wine choices be as varied as the ever changing winds Cheers and herersquos to refined full-bodied cool-weather wines

38

Once yoursquore done with your magazine cover shoot like we did this month or prepping for dinner and have all of those odds and ends just sitting on the cutting board - you know carrot ends onion skins tips of celery stalks you get the point - donrsquot toss lsquoem

Instead place them into a large ziploc bag and straight into the freezer After a couple of weeks yoursquoll likely have four full freezer bags of vegetable bits ready to be turned into broth and herersquos how you do it

Making a big batch of vegetable broth doesnrsquot always mean a trip to the grocery store All you need to do is save those scraps This is a handy trick I learned years ago courtesy of Bon Appetit

No-Waste Vegetable Broth

by DAN CLAPSON

Odds And Ends BrothYields 8 cups (2 L)

12 cups (3 L) water4 full ziploc bags of vegetable trimmings1 yellow onion quartered4 cloves garlicAromatics of choice (I usually toss a couple of rosemary and thyme sprigs in there)To taste Salt and pepper

1 Place all ingredients in a large pot and bring to a boil on medium-high heat

2 Reduce to medium heat and let simmer uncovered for 1frac12 hours

3 Strain season to taste with salt and pepper and use as desired

Full circlePizza amp Oyster Bar

933 17 Ave SW bull fullcirclepizzaca

buck-a-shuck oysters

$1 oysters every night

9 pm - close Sunday-thursday 11 pm - close friday amp saturday

40

Salentein 2012 Reserve Chardonnay Uco Valley Argentina

Very very enjoyable chardonnay blowing me away with complexity varietal character and fine balance between oak lees and fruit Toffee baked apple tangerine and a little almond on the nose lead into silkily textured wine in the mouth Top shelf chardonnay that might be great with lobster tails mussels or poultry Around $20 CSPC +779479

Rutini 2013 Cabernet Malbec Mendoza Argentina

An exceptionally well put together blend - if you want rich berry fruits lots of body but maybe not tons of varietal characters from the individual components Lifted and bright fruits make for a very enjoyable glass Simply perfect for your next barbecue a roast or just chilling out with friends and family $26-30 CSPC +776822

Vinecol 2014 Organic Malbec Mendoza Argentina Fair Trade organic and vegan along with a good price is it still good Piles of fresh fruits (think smashed raspberries) with plenty of spice and soft herb-leaf aromas There are plenty of malbec flavours on the palate too Good for any day of the week with just a little tension between fruit tannin and acid it might be best with pub style burgers pulled pork or sausages About $16 CSPC +755296

Argentina is so much more than malbec While such a noble grape has found its best home in the high altitude vineyards of Argentina there is a lot going on with other grapes as well

Making The Case For Argentina

by TOM FIRTH

This massive country nestled up against the Andes mountains has a range of growing conditions suited to a number of grapes From Salta in the north to Patagonia in the south plenty of interesting wines are available here - many reasonably priced and of excellent quality So yes there are some

malbecs on these pages but please do try some of the other grapes and blends coming from Argentina too

Be sure to crack open a bottle of malbec on ldquoWorld Malbec Dayrdquo April 17 - who knows it might be nice enough to barbecue too

Photograph courtesy Tom Firth

41

Manos Negras 2011 Stone Soil Select Mendoza Argentina Quite new to the market this is a pretty enjoyable version of Argentinarsquos flagship grape Loads of blue fruit and raspberries with spices galore and a little compost Rich flavours lead to a lengthy spicy finish Yes please Bring to a barbecue if you can $21 CSPC +630541

Zuccardi 2012 Zeta Mendoza Argentina

A malbec-cabernet sauvignon blend that is also a blend of two different Mendoza appellations La Consulta and Gualtallary Deep and abundant fruit aromas with liquorice root and a touch of blueberry preserves Excellent balance of flavours on the palate too with the right structure and tannin for aging if desired Enjoy with a prime rib or even meaty pasta dishes or game $50-52 CSPC +740270

Zuccardi 2012 ldquoEmmardquo Bonarda Mendoza Argentina

In my humble opinion one of the finest bonardas coming out of Argentina Notes of coffee bean and espresso complement cherry and blackberry fruits with healthy balanced tannins to stand up to the tart fruits Delicious for sure enjoy at your next barbecue $40 CSPC +758407

Luigi Bosca 2011 Cabernet-Malbec Mendoza Argentina

A wonderfully earthy and savoury blend with plenty of tobacco spice leather and yes lots of fruit too The earthy flavours work well with the big dark chocolate flavours and weighty tannins Drink now or through 2020 or so - with a steak naturally $22-24 CSPC +766010

Trivento 2013 Golden Reserve Malbec Lujan de Cuyo Argentina While there is a trend to see a lot of premium malbecs move away from oak presence this one is a bold smooth and delicious example that is seeing about a year of oak All those berry fruits plums and herb notes malbec is known for along with the smoothness that only oak brings Kick back relax maybe cook up some steaks - enjoy About $24 CSPC +711402

Trivento 2014 Malbec Reserve Mendoza Argentina Nearly unbeatable for good malbec at a great price itrsquos rich and chocolatey on the nose with big fruits and oak tones too Mild garrigue notes or dried herb flavours with plenty of fruit and tannins - still showing a fine sense of balance Enjoy with beef $14 CSPC +730714

Luigi Bosca 2011 De Sangre Mendoza Argentina A blend of cabernet sauvignon merlot and syrah that manages to pull out the best of each varietal Earthy and slightly smoky with good fruits and plenty of versatility Tannins are well-placed against the fruits with a long smooth finish Irsquove been a fan of this wine year after year Good to keep a couple on hand in the cellar About $29 CSPC +745106

Salentein 2012 Numina Gran Corte Uco Valley Argentina A malbec-dominated Bordeaux blend this stunner is all about ripe fruits cedar pepper cherries and plum with a little tealeaf and the right amount of tannins Very very well balanced and like any great wine think about some food to go with it Beef tenderloin slow cooked meats or maybe at your next asadohellip About $40 CSPC +764706

Colonia Las Liebres 2013 Bonarda Mendoza Argentina Bear with me here - a fine bonarda with plenty of earthy smoky aromas leading to rubber charred cherries and cocoa Some pretty prominent tannins to be found as well but wow does it all come together A wine that just begs for duck with cranberries or maybe some kebabshellip$20 CSPC +773381

42

Open That Bottleby LINDA GARSON photography by INGRID KUENZEL

ldquoIf you work in a place and yoursquore miserable I donrsquot know if there is a dollar amount that can be attached to that The work that yoursquore doing has to be rewarding and challengingrdquo says Karen KhoGrowing up in Niagara Falls in a Philippino SpanishChinese family Kho was surrounded by food and drinks with an open door policy that has had a huge influence on the person she is today - an

entertainer who likes to make people feel welcome ldquoMy parents wanted me to be a lawyer there was definitely an encouragement to use my voice for goodrdquo she explains ldquoAnd I still think I help people but in a different way a very social wayrdquo

Graduating Western University with a political science degree in 2000 Kho spent a year travelling and living in Australia before taking a leap of faith and moving to Calgary Here she studied wine with the International Sommeliers Guild and WSET but says her real education was a job she adored working in the wine trade at BIN 905 in tandem with running wine programs for CRMR restaurants It was only when the opportunity came to create the wine program at Vin Room six years later that Kho leapt at the challenge of a new idea for the city and spent four happy years there

Eventually she and her partner decided to stretch their wings and went to Vancouver where Kho embarked on a six-month culinary course at the Pacific Institute of Culinary Arts ticking off another box on her bucket list ldquoI wanted a greater understanding of technique in the kitchen and I wanted an understanding of what service on a very basic level would look like if I ever owned my own place and ever had to be the person who filled inrdquo she says ldquoI feel if I was ever in a place that needed someone to chop onions Irsquom your womanrdquo she laughs

A year later the pair came back with the idea of eventually opening their own business in Calgary ldquoThe support we get from this community is heartfelt and this is a city of opportunity People with the right concept are seeing a lot of great success itrsquos still our game planrdquo she says Meanwhile Kho applied only to Teatro where she is now Group Service Director

ldquoI wanted to work at a place that had a challenging wine program and had a level of service with high expectations and where professional service teams

applyrdquo she says ldquoItrsquos pretty romantic to work for a company that has been built on a foundation of service Successful businesses in the restaurant industry get the grand picture which is the moments that yoursquore creating for people and I like to be a part of thatrdquo she adds

So what bottle is Kho saving for a special occasion

Paying homage to her time at BIN 905 Kho explains ldquoI have a bottle of 1996 Chateau Mouton Rothschild which was given to me with some very kind words on my last day at BIN Irsquove always just appreciated my time there it was where I learned the vernacular of wine and itrsquos my first job where I really saw the benefits of serving people with intentionrdquo She continues ldquoI always see it thankfully as the stepping-stone to a broader wine profession and eventually to the position that I have now It was given to me by very close friends that Irsquom still friends with to this dayrdquo

And when is she planning to open the wine

ldquoWhen (partner) Dave and I open our own restaurantrdquo Kho says This isnrsquot something that something that will happen tomorrow but fortunately the wine will last until theyrsquore ready

Charcoal-grilled prime cutsHand-muddled caipirinhas50+ salad bar optionsThree distinct private rooms

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(587) 354-3441

See this weekrsquos promotion

eatpampayyc

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Culinaire April 2016indd 2 2016-03-04 501 PM

18

Soup Kitchenstory and photography by DAN CLAPSON

The fresh hang-up-your-winter-jacket feeling is finally in the air ndash and that my friends is a wonderful thing Gone are the days where wersquove looked forward to spooning into a big bowl of creamy soup or sitting down to some chicken noodle soup to help shake off the winter sniffles These days Irsquom more concerned with light and bright flavours and less calorie-ridden meals

so I wonrsquot look completely undesirable in a swimsuit come June

Here are two great recipes that just happen to be vegan but are bursting with flavour

Serves 5 Total cook time 35 minutes

6 cups (15 L) vegetable broth1 cup (240 mL) white wine1 cup (240 mL) water2 Tbs (30 mL) tomato paste2 cups dry green lentils1 red onion halved and thinly sliced1 small fennel bulb halved and thinly sliced2 tsp (10 mL) maple syrup1 tsp dried oreganofrac12 tsp ground turmericfrac12 tsp chili flakesfrac12 tsp ground cinnamon1 pinch nutmeg2 cups thinly sliced red Swiss chardTo taste salt and pepper

1 Place broth wine water and tomato paste in a large pot and bring to a simmer on medium-high heat Add lentils and cook for 15 minutes

2 Add onion fennel maple syrup and spices and continue to cook for 15 minutes

Spiced Green Lentil and Chard Soup

3 Add Swiss chard and cook until leaves are tender about 2-3 minutes Season to taste with salt and pepper and serve

Dan Clapson is a freelance food writer and columnist in Calgary When hersquos not writing about Canadarsquos amazing culinary scene he is likely listening to 80s rock or 90s boy bands Follow him on twitter dansgoodside

Spinach and Cashew Soup with Poblano and Scallion Salsa

Serves 4 Total cook time 30 minutes not including cashew soak time

Soup1frac12 cups roasted cashews2 cups (500 mL) water4 cups (1 L) vegetable broth4 cups cooked spinach1 Tbs (15 mL) apple cider vinegar1 Tbs (15 mL) maple syrupfrac12 tsp cayenne peppersalt and pepper to tastecashew butter for garnish optional

1 Place cashews and water in a container cover and let sit on counter overnight

2 Combine cashews water and remaining soup ingredients in a blender and pureacutee until very smooth

3 Pour contents of blender through a fine mesh strainer into a medium pot Bring to a simmer on medium-high heat and cook for 15 minutes Season to taste with salt and pepper and keep warm on stove until ready to serve

4 Place a couple of spoonfuls of the salsa into each bowl and ladle soup around it Add a couple of dollops of cashew butter for a little extra richness

Salsa1 large poblano pepper halved and seeds removed1 bunch scallions2 Tbs (30 mL) canola oil2 Tbs fresh mint roughly chopped1 tsp (5 mL) lemon juicefrac12 tsp cane sugarfrac12 tsp chili flakessalt and pepper to taste

1 Preheat oven to 400ordm F

2 Place poblano halves and scallions on a baking sheet drizzle with oil and roast until slightly charred about 15-18 minutes

3 Remove from oven allow to cool slightly then give them a rough chop

4 Add to a bowl with remaining ingredients and toss to combine Season liberally with salt and pepper

20

Photograph courtesy California Wine Institute

Ever since Napa Valley cabernet sauvignons and chardonnays bested their more historic counterparts from Bordeaux and Burgundy in the now-famous Judgment of Paris tasting in 1976 California and its flagship region have carried the torch for the bold dense fruity lushly oaked wines that brought them worldwide fame

Forty years later this sun-drenched style of wines remains both unapologetically enjoyable and wildly popular and Napa is on the bucket list of any devoted wine tourist But as tastes and trends start to evolve away from a focus on power and concentration towards greater elegance and food-friendliness winemakers in California are again taking to the frontier gravitating towards the statersquos physical and climatic extremes to explore new boundaries of flavour and complexity Californiarsquos cooler corners

California Coolby PETER VETSCH

California is a land of frontiers dangling on the edge of the Pacific home of the Gold Rush and epicentre of the New Worldrsquos insurgence onto the global wine scene

are fast becoming its second face in the world of wine

Sonoma County north of San Francisco and just west of Napa is probably Californiarsquos second best-known region almost equally recognized for its cabernets chardonnays and zinfandels The largest subregion in the county taking up almost a third of its total area is the western Sonoma Coast too expansive at 500000 acres to have a distinct identity

However the western border of this appellation a razorrsquos edge straddling the ocean locally known as the ldquotruerdquo Sonoma Coast showcases the regionrsquos true character - extreme viticulture wet cool and always windy at elevations up to 2000 feet balanced on the San Andreas Fault with many vines growing above the fog line and constantly exposed to the throes of the Pacific Pinot noir takes on a unique expression here on low-yielding vines in the cool above the rest of Sonoma offering both remarkable purity of fruit and astonishing acidity and structure

Pinot is also predominant in the relatively new Santa Rita Hills subregion of the Santa Ynez Valley located an hour and a half northwest of Los Angeles and similarly perched right alongside the ocean The maritime influence dominates the microclimate and counteracts the California sun with fog and cool breezes to the point where this coastal spot becomes a near ideal substitute for chilly Burgundy Here the core Burgundian varietals of pinot noir and chardonnay thrive in a particularly striking edgy way

Santa Ynez is the only wine region in the western hemisphere where the arearsquos defining mountain range runs east-west instead of north-south creating a sort of maritime wind tunnel that sucks cold Pacific air eastward This leads to some of the largest diurnal (day to night) temperature shifts in North America and allows inland grapes ripening in the scorching daytime heat to recharge and maintain acidity at night This special geological feature allows a wide range of reds in Santa Ynez to be juicy but still structured bold yet balanced from cabernet and merlot to syrah and grenache

Halfway between the Sonoma Coast to the north and the Santa Rita Hills to the south along yet another coastline

California can comfortably both provide continuity

and defy stereotype

Wine Picks

Peter is a local lawyer by day and wine writer by night maintaining his own wine blog at popandpourca He is always on the lookout for the next way to experience wine and the next good bottle to try

A LITTLE SIBLING RIVALRY NEVER HURT ANYBODY

FOUR SETTINGS ONE PHILOSOPHY crmrcom338 - 17th Avenue SW

c i l a n t ro

747 Lake Bonavista Dr SE113 - 8th Avenue SW 340 - 17th Avenue SW

Sequoia Grove 2012 Cabernet Sauvignon (Napa Valley)Textbook cabernet from Naparsquos heart of Rutherford with deep black fruit mint and cedarhellip and a survivable price tag CSPC +740382 $56

Hartford Court Landrsquos Edge Vineyard Pinot Noir (Sonoma Coast)The ferocity of the Sonoma Coast somehow creates the picture of elegance in this juicy yet delicate pinot CSPC +717210 $60

Domaine de la Cote 2013 Pinot Noir (Sta Rita Hills) Seriously pushes the boundaries picked almost insanely early for low-alcohol herbal pomegranate and rhubarb acidic tension and energy CSPC +761893 $58

Alice May Crosswinds Syrah (Santa Ynez Valley) A syrahviognier Cote Rotie-style co-ferment that matches Cali ripeness with surprising verve and delicacy CSPC +761131 $28

Ridge 2013 Geyserville (Santa Cruz Mountains)This will change your expectations of zinfandel A zin-heavy field blend it combines the best of its mountain altitude and the California sun CSPC +426379 $55

just south of San Jose the wineries of the Santa Cruz Mountains prove again that those seeking to make modern moderate wines in California head both west and up The highest vineyards in Santa Cruz despite being just miles from the ocean are at 2600 feet this significant altitude and the cool Pacific climate results in chiseled wines with controlled ripeness and serious staying power

The region is both expansive and miniscule with only 1500 of its 480000 acres currently planted to grapes and its very-California plantings (cabernet chardonnay pinot noir zinfandel and merlot) all take on an Old World character and rusticity from its rugged terrain and stony mineral-laden soils Despite the challenges associated with growing grapes on a cool rock face Santa Cruz is a state leader in sustainable growing practices

The friendly sunny face of California wine is surely here to stay but Santa Cruz Santa Ynez and the Sonoma Coast are permanent proof that the state is readily capable of more than one expression With its range of climate and terrain California can comfortably both provide continuity and defy stereotype

22

En GardeA Beginnerrsquos Guide To Knives And Their Usesby ANNA BROOKS

Itrsquos difficult to imagine that sharp little number thatrsquos slicing away to the rhythm of your favourite cooking music (or to the beating of child-size fists hungry for dinner) was more often used for combat not chopping carrots

Despite King Louis XIVrsquos decree that the tips of knives be ground down to reduce violence in the mid-1600s kitchen knives still (for quite pointed reasons) make popular murder weapons

But we wonrsquot get into grisly stories of guts and gore here Whether yoursquore a chef extraordinaire or the person whose knife knowledge goes as far as cutting

vegetables with a steak knife there are some things everyone should know about knives

The first major thing we must insist upon is putting down that expensive 14-piece knife set As most knife experts can attest to three main knives can cover almost all the work that a layman cook needs to do in the kitchen

23

Three main knives can cover almost all the work that a layman cook needs

to do in the kitchen

Chefrsquos Knife Your standard knife for mincing and slicing vegetables and meat a chefrsquos knife is typically 20-25 cm long but can range all the way up to 36 cm

Luke Pickett from Knifewear is a sight to see wielding some wickedly sharp

handcrafted Japanese models but despite their carnivorous look Pickett said therersquos really nothing to fear

ldquoThere are a lot of people who are scared of really large knivesrdquo Pickett said ldquoBut having good quality kitchen equipment will make your life easierrdquo

For beginners a standard 20 cm chefrsquos knife (although Pickett said blade length is purely based on personal preference) is best to start with but a Japanese Santoku knife mdash an elegant slightly smaller version of a chefrsquos knife mdash will certainly get the job er meal done

Paring KnifeOn the other side of the knife spectrum is the pocket-sized paring knife (note carrying knives in pockets not recommended)

Regan Johnson assistant manager at The Cookbook Co said besides what the individual using a steak knife to cut everything might think the small intricate work required of a paring knife (such as peeling and trimming) should not be done on a cutting board

ldquoParing is anything you can be doing in the air mdash yoursquore not ever supposed to use a paring knife on a boardrdquo she explained

Johnson added that for someone like herself who does almost as much blade-wielding as a samurai she also recommends a utility knife

which is a hybrid of a chefrsquos knife and a paring knife

ldquoI reach for my utility knife a lotrdquo she said ldquoItrsquos got that shape of a paring knife but is longer Itrsquos just for those things in between that you donrsquot need your giant chefrsquos knife forrdquo

Bread KnifeThe last of the big three is of course a bread knife Have you ever tried to cut a loaf of bread with a straight blade Not so easy (or safe) a task

Itrsquos sometimes difficult to do but no matter the type of knife yoursquore using itrsquos important to try and slice as opposed to chopping or sawing It

is quite tempting (and often seems easier) to saw away at the crispy crust of a floured loaf of sourdough but Knifewearrsquos Pickett said sawing can

be a slippery slope to your bread knifersquos grave

ldquoIf you slice you can use the entire blade and itrsquos a lot sharper along the edgerdquo he explained ldquoItrsquos important to get a good bread knife because you canrsquot sharpen them like you can any other sort of kniferdquo

The Big Three

24

Having good quality kitchen equipment will

make your life easier

Anna Brooks is an award-winning journalist from Calgary Alberta She has worked internationally in Thailand and Africa and has been published in Metro BeatRoute Magazine and the Calgary Journal She also enjoys animal rights fantasy fiction and whiskey sours

Tips and TricksOf course you can adorn your kitchen with the countless others belonging to the knife family mdash cleavers carvers boning knives cheese knives etc mdash but if yoursquore not planning on hacking through solid bone anytime soon you probably donrsquot need to spend $200 on a meat cleaver

But there are some other knife-related implements that are important to have in your kitchen

First off a proper cutting board While plastic cutting boards are versatile and can be chucked in the dishwasher wood is really the best way to go Cutting boards are the quickest way to ruin a knife so steer clear of fancy-looking glass or granite boards mdash they are the antagonists of our story

Itrsquos also not a bad idea to have a knife honer on hand As a reminder (or for

those who had no idea what that random rod in the kitchen was used for) honers are for honing not sharpening

ldquoWith use the metal fibres in a knife edge can get bent to one side or another All yoursquore doing with honing is straightening those fibres back outrdquo Johnson from The Cookbook Co explained ldquoSharpening means yoursquore actually removing material and grinding the metal down to a finer edgerdquo

Johnson added that while you can sharpen at home she always recommends getting your knives sharpened professionally at least once a year depending on how much theyare used

Before you go back to making your lazy-day grilled cheese sandwich or that complex stew yoursquove spent hours on we just want to remind you of whatrsquos called ldquothe pinch griprdquo

Not to sound snobbish but grabbing a knife by the handle and hacking away is poor form Use your thumb and index finger to grasp the blade and then wrap your remaining fingers under the bolster of the knife Shape your other hand into a claw to protect your fingertips from accidentally getting lopped off firmly grasp the object to be cut and slice away

If this knowledge was present in the 17th century perhaps old King Louis XIV would be tipping his crown to more cooks not kitchen knife combatants

25

Times Are A Changing Unexpected Take-Outs

by LINDA GARSON and DIANA NG photography by INGRID KUENZEL

Therersquos no denying that many of our cityrsquos restaurants are feeling the effects of the current economic downturn fewer people working downtown ndash indeed fewer people working altogether and so looking to save money by eating out less means many bricks and mortar restaurants are having to get creative with ways to fully utilise their kitchens and staff

High rents exacerbate the situation so itrsquos time for Calgary restaurateurs to think outside the box and proving to be the innovative entrepreneurs that wersquore known for many are diversifying their offerings to include take-out options both raw and cooked

Catch amp The Oyster Bar launched their ldquoBuy Catchrdquo program where you can pick up fresh Ocean Wise seafood to take home and cook (complete with recipes) along with house-made clam chowder and sauces nearly two years ago There are big savings to be had over dining in with no costs for linen or staff and no expectation to tip

Here are four Calgary eateries also getting clever with take-out

programs that are not widely publicised - and may

open a few eyes

26

Centini Restaurant

Itrsquos not a cookie cutter program but the magic of Centinirsquos take-out is that you can ask the kitchen for ideas of what you should have for dinner People even text the servers for suggestions and to order Loyal customers mostly busy businessmen were asking if they catered but without the staff for such a service Centini started offering to prepare dishes for them to cook themselves

Now you can get your favourite restaurant dishes from rack of lamb with red wine demi-glace AAA Alberta beef tenderloin with Gorgonzola pan sauce and sea bass with ginger cream sauce ready to cook at home ldquoWersquore not going to open a bricks and mortar restaurant down south but our food is going thererdquo says Chevonne Centini Theyrsquore seeing pick-ups such as for people stuck at home with a new baby and even 40 people for a funeral

Boxwood

Itrsquos hard to believe that the quality of food coming from the sister restaurant to River Cafe can be had at home and we are not talking about leftovers When

People take home uncooked homemade pasta with sauce separately and even bread dough and often freeze it to cook later or pick up on a Friday evening so everything is prepared ready for Saturday dinner When buying from a restaurant yoursquore getting top quality perfectly trimmed meat everything is done for you - therersquos no shopping

around and even the parsley is chopped And as everything is custom-made all allergies are catered for too

Centini gets fish delivered once or twice every day and it may come as a surprise but with a chef garde manger that spent 15 years in Japan they have customers coming just to take out sushi

you go home to an empty fridge it feels like the only options you have are fast food or pizza Not so

Boxwoodrsquos fresh and seasonal fare is also available to take home While you wonrsquot

be able to enjoy the quaint atmosphere of the restaurant you can order anything on the menu for take out with its special offering being the whole rotisserie free-range chicken which serves two to four people for $40

Many bricks and mortar restaurants are

having to get creative with ways to fully utilise their

kitchens and staff

You will need to call a few hours ahead (the website states before 200 pm) for enough notice for the chicken but for the rest of the selection like its soups and sandwiches you can simply look up the menu online and call to place an order For a perfect night in may we suggest starting with its bison tartare then moving onto the porchetta and another main before finishing off the meal with a slice of pie

27

Gaucho

For most people the elaborate setup of Brazilian barbecue is one of its biggest attractions You may not know this and while you may not be able to take home the lively decor of Gaucho you can actually take the meal home

The spit packed tightly with freshly roasted meats the sign at the table that signals yoursquore ready for more and the roasted and caramelized pineapple that tops off the meal all contribute to the atmosphere but if all you want are the meats and sides for a hefty dinner you can certainly order the meal as a take-out

Order any of the four options (top sirloin pork loin chicken wings or mild sausage) and add three sides from the list of eight which includes a variety of salads black bean stew and rice And because you canrsquot just have one kind of meat when it comes to Brazilian barbecue you can choose additional

Safari Grill

The marinated thinly sliced BBQ short beef ribs at Safari Grill are already a must-have for those in the know but we suspect even regulars will be surprised to discover that you can pick

up uncooked ribs with your choice of seven marinades to take home and BBQ yourself

With none of the associated costs of dining in $65 buys you enough ribs for 10 people and customers actually drive

meats for $4 each Finally choose the sauce yoursquod like to accompany your meal Orders for over five people will come in a big white box and individual

orders come will in regular take-out containers For big parties do call a few hours ahead All you need to make at home is the caipirinha

from Saskatchewan to take away 10-15 lb bags of these uncooked marinated ribs Some people call and ask for them to be marinated and frozen in 5 lb bags to enjoy later as just 5-7 minutes each side on a high flame has the raw ribs ready to eat

And itrsquos not only ribs that people BBQ at home Mishkaki are skewers of marinated chicken beef and prawns and for as little as $3 each you can have a very inexpensive BBQ feast Marinated raw lamb chops are also available or ask for Samaki - a marinated whole tilapia that comes with a basting sauce to brush on You can even get uncooked samosas to cook in your oven at home

All Safari Grillrsquos regular menu can be ordered for take-out but there is no published price list for uncooked dishes so people call to order and ask - but when yoursquore picking up look out for the new jars of house-made mango and lemon pickles

28

Step By Step Go Nuts With Homemade Nutella And Waffles story and photography by NATALIE FINDLAY

There are many nutritional benefits packed into these small filberts They are rich in dietary fibre packed with folate an excellent source of vitamin E and contain mono-unsaturated fatty acids that

can help lower bad cholesterol and raise good cholesterol By making your own Nutella at home you can control the amount of sugar that is added making this delicious spread basicallyhellip a health food

Hazelnuts have a tried and true following for taking the lead role in the chocolate spread Nutella This long-standing love affair has lasted simply because they add a distinct but subtle flavour to the chocolate Truly a match that is better together than apart

These delicious and super-easy waffles make a great base for your homemade Nutella With the addition of ground hazelnuts to the batter you can deepen the hazelnut flavour and pack in more health benefits

Waffles with raspberries and white chocolate spread

29

Natalie is a freelance writer photographer and pastry chef A graduate of Cordon Bleursquos pastry program she manages her own business too to create custom-made cakes

Using the same waffle recipe from above and switching out the mashed banana and adding frac12 a medium orange ndash juice and zest ndash to the batter you have a delicious orange waffle that will highlight the white chocolate hazelnut spread recipe below

Homemade White Chocolate Hazelnut Spread Makes 1frac12 cups

1frac12 cups (200 g) whole hazelnutsfrac12 cup (70 g) icing sugar2 Tbs (30 mL) canola oil1 tsp (5 mL) vanilla extract1 cup (250g) white chocolate

Follow directions for Homemade Nutella and add the melted white chocolate at the end Pulse to combine

Macerated Raspberries with Orange Serves 6

250 g fresh raspberriesfrac12 medium orange zest and juice1 Tbs icing sugarfrac12 tsp vanilla extract

Add all ingredients into a medium bowl and stir to combine Let sit for about 1 hour

Serve your warm waffles topped with your white chocolate homemade hazelnut spread macerated berries and a dollop of whipped cream or ice cream

Note Homemade Nutella has more texture than store bought and will last around 1 month in the fridge Waffles can be made ahead and frozen Thaw and reheat in the waffle maker or the oven

Banana Fruit compoteMakes enough for 6

3 ripe bananas peeled sliced into rounds2 Tbs (30 g) butter2 Tbs (30 g) brown sugar1frac12 tsp (8 mL) vanilla extract1frac12 tsp (8 mL) bourbon

1 Add butter and sugar to a sauteacute pan over medium heat As they melt stir to combine

2 Add vanilla and bourbon than add sliced bananas and sauteacute until warmed through

Serve your warm waffles topped with your homemade hazelnut spread sauteacuteed bananas and a dollop of whipped cream or ice cream

Homemade Nutella Makes 1frac12 cups

1frac12 cups (200 g) whole hazelnutsfrac34 cup (100g) icing sugar3 Tbs (45 mL) canola oilfrac14 cup (30 g) cocoa powder1 tsp (5 mL) vanilla extract

1 Toast hazelnuts on a baking pan in a preheated 350ordm F oven for 10 - 15 minutes Keep an eye on them to make sure they donrsquot start to burn Remove from oven and let cool to the touch

2 Wrap the nuts in a kitchen towel and rub together to remove the skins This should remove most of the skins

3 Place skinless hazelnuts in a food processor on high Process the nuts until they form a smooth paste and the oils start to separate (about 5 minutes) scraping the bowl often

4 Add the icing sugar cocoa powder vanilla and canola oil to the food processor and process until fully incorporated scraping bowl of processor as needed (about 2 minutes)

Hazelnut Banana WafflesMakes 6

frac12 cup (80 g) all purpose flour1 tsp baking powderfrac12 tsp baking sodaPinch sea salt1 Tbs (15 g) icing sugar1 Tbs (10 g) ground hazelnuts6 grates whole nutmeg1 tsp ground cinnamonfrac12 cup (125 mL) buttermilk1 egg yolk2 Tbs (30 g) butter meltedfrac12 small banana peeled and mashed1 egg white

1 Sift together all dry ingredients (except the ground hazelnuts) in a medium bowl Add the ground hazelnuts and combine

2 Mash the half banana in a small bowl with a fork Add the egg buttermilk and melted butter

3 Whisk the egg white to stiff peaks

4 Whisk the wet ingredients into the dry and fold the egg white into the mixture

5 Follow the directions for your waffle pan to cook waffles for around 5 minutes or until cooked through

Note Remember to bring the waffle pan up to temperature in between each batch of waffles

Hazelnut Banana Waffles with Nutella

30

Citrus Beer Friendsby DAVID NUTTALL

This is when the taste andor aroma of a beer can remind the drinker of anything from an orange drink or lemonade to grapefruit soda There are several ways to achieve this character and these beers are becoming more and more popular every day

Hops provide the bitterness in beer and out of the literally hundreds of varieties a few impart citrus notes into the aroma and flavour Cascade and Citra are examples of two of the most popular hops used in several styles of beer most notably the American IPA or India Pale Ale Cascade hops have been around for over 40 years and it is the single most popular hop used by the American craft brewing industry It provides a floralspicy character often reminiscent of grapefruit

Citrarsquos name leaves no guessing as to its attributes A relative newcomer this cross breed of UK German and US hop varieties has been around for less than a decade but it is already an extremely popular hop for imparting

One of the great things about beer is its diversity It can come in a myriad of colours and also a wide variety of flavours citrus being one of the most distinct

Dave Nuttall has been in the liquor and event business forever He is a qualified beer judge and ownerpresident of Epicurean Calgary at epicureancalgarycom for ten years

citrus and tropical fruit characteristics to a beer

It has proven very versatile and appears in several beer styles from session ales to IPAs It has also become a favourite hop to use for dry-hopping (adding hops late into the boil) due to the exceptional aromas it produces For even more flavour and aroma craft brewers now commonly enhance these already citrusy IPAs with actual zest peel or juice from citrus fruits to create an IPAFruit Beer hybrid which sells especially well in summer months

Then there is the yeast and many varieties of yeast can produce citrusy esters The unfiltered hefeweizens brewed on both sides of the Atlantic quite often have a lemony flavour Sour beers also showcase the yeast often cultured from Belgian strains

These beers are tart and produce a gamut of flavours many with citrus qualities and some have added fruit - the easiest and most obvious way to create a citrusy beer The Belgians also add different kinds of oranges with spice additions to their wheat ales to create wit beers now emulated all over the world with different citrus (and other) fruits involved in the recipe We also canrsquot forget the radlers which are simply a lager beer mixed with 40-60 fruit juice - often grapefruit or lemonade

Whether itrsquos added fruit the yeast the hops or a combination of all of them citrusy beers are commonplace now Thanks to new hops like Citra and the increasing popularity of wits and sours we can expect this trend to continue

Here are a few local beers with hints of citrus All are also available on tap

Beer comes in a myriad of colours and flavours citrus being one of the

most distinct

Ribstone Creek Great White CombineThis tiny Edgerton Alberta brewery has been knocking it out of the park lately Named after the ubiquitous Alberta summer hailstorm the use of Belgian yeast sweet orange peel and coriander give this beer an orange flavour in the beginning When the four different hop additions kick in it changes more to a sweet lemony flavour This White IPA has a very tropical feel that makes you forget it was made in northern Alberta CSPC +774162 $16 6-pack cans

Wild Rose Cowbell Sour ales are the new Belle of the Ball at craft breweries Often using imported Belgian yeast strains they are tart tangy and wellhellip sour Calgaryrsquos Wild Rose has taken this flavour profile and added kaffir lime leaves This makes the beer more like a refreshing limeade and is less bitter than many of its other sour counterparts CSPC +778093 $17 6-pack bottles

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Citradelic Single Hop IPA Big Rock BreweryWith breweries in two (soon to be three) provinces Big Rock now has multiple locations to develop new beers This is the first one from their Vancouver brewery and is full of lemongrapefruit flavours and tropical aromas This beer showcases the Citra hop fooling one to think that citrus has been added when itrsquos all thanks to the hop CSPC +778593 $15 6-pack bottles

Alley Kat Main SqueezeWhat started out as a summer seasonal has now become a mainstay of this Edmonton brewery A North American style wheat ale with a 50 wheat and 50 barley mix it has added grapefruit juice but tastes more along the lines of pink grapefruit rather than its more bitter cousin CSPC +733630 $17 6-pack bottles

32

story by RENEE KOHLMAN

Cheesecake is one of those classic desserts that almost everyone loves unless of course you have a dairy allergy then yoursquoll stay far far away from it While it may seem too complicated to make at home I assure you that itrsquos not

Spice it up cheesecake

Sure there are a few steps involved but the key thing to remember is to have your eggs and cream cheese at room temperature For the best crack-free cheesecake itrsquos best to bake it in a water bath It yields a light creamy texture and is well worth the effort Cheesecake always tastes better the next day so bake it the day before you want to serve it Now that wersquove got the basics down itrsquos time to have a little fun with the crust filling and toppings

The Base

The classic graham cracker crust is fine but every now and again itrsquos great to switch things up Try

ndash Grinding up ginger cookies They work especially well for a pumpkin cheesecake

ndash Chocolate cookie crumbs are fantastic for caramel peanut butter and raspberry cheesecakes

ndash Add finely chopped nuts oats or seeds to the cookie crumbs for added texture and taste

The Middle

Therersquos something to be said for a straight up vanilla or chocolate cheesecake but with some fun add-ins they could take your cheesecake to the next level of deliciousness Try

ndash Swirling tahini dulce de leche salted caramel or chocolate fudge sauce into a creamy vanilla filling

ndash Mix in chopped chocolate peanut butter cups to a chocolate filling

ndash Drop fresh berries (raspberries blueberries blackberries) on top of a vanilla filling

ndash Stir in chopped candied ginger dried cherries or cranberries chopped toasted nuts to the filling

ndash Swap some of the cream cheese with ricotta mascarpone cheese or even strained cottage cheese

ndash You can never go wrong with lemon zest in a vanilla cheesecake

Have a little fun with the crust filling

and toppings

33

Apple Crumble CheesecakeMakes about 12-14 servings Total cook and prep time 3 hours (plus overnight chilling)

I love apple crisp and I love cheesecake This recipe is a fine marriage of both and makes a more than acceptable breakfast The base is a crumble of oats and flour the middle is classic cheesecake and itrsquos topped with cinnamon apples and a buttery oat streusel

Crust 2 cups large flake oats1 cup all purpose flour cup packed brown sugarfrac34 cup butter meltedfrac12 tsp salt

Cheesecake Layer3 - 225 g packages cream cheese at room temperature cup granulated sugar1 tsp (5 mL) vanilla3 large eggs at room temperature cup (80 mL) whipping cream

Apple Layer2 apples peeled cored and sliced about 3-4 mm thick1 tsp ground cinnamonfrac12 tsp salt

Streusel Layer1 cup large flake oatsfrac12 cup all-purpose flourfrac12 cup brown sugarfrac12 cup butter softened1 tsp ground cinnamon

Preheat the oven to 375ordm F

1 Butter the bottom and sides of a 9-inch springform pan with sides that are at least 7 cm high Wrap the bottom of the pan in aluminum foil so it comes at least halfway up the sides

2 Combine the crust ingredients in a large bowl Press the crust evenly into the pan and place on a baking sheet Bake for 10 minutes Remove from oven and let it cool on a wire rack

3 Reduce heat to 325ordm F Put a kettle of water on to boil Have a large roasting pan close by

4 Using a stand mixer with a paddle attachment beat the cream cheese at medium speed for 4 minutes scraping down the sides once or twice until it is soft and creamy With the mixer still running add the sugar and beat for another 4 minutes scraping down the sides of the bowl at least twice Beat in the vanilla Add the eggs one at a time beating for 1 minute after each addition and scraping the bowl Reduce speed to low and add the whipping cream

5 Toss the sliced apples with the cinnamon and salt in a small bowl Combine all of the streusel ingredients in a medium bowl and mix well

6 Place the springform pan in the roasting pan Give the cheesecake batter a good stir and pour it on top of the crust Arrange the apples on top and sprinkle the streusel on top of the apples

7 Place in the oven on the middle rack and pour the hot water into the roasting pan so it comes halfway up the sides of the springform pan

8 Bake the cheesecake for 1frac12 hours Turn off the heat prop open the oven door and let the cheesecake hang inside for another hour

9 Carefully remove from the oven and take out the cheesecake from the hot water bath Remove the foil and let the cheesecake come to room temperature on a wire rack Cover the top lightly and refrigerate for at least 4 hours but overnight is best The next day remove the sides of the pan and serve the cake

Renee is a food writer and pastry chef living in beautiful Saskatoon Saskatchewan Her columns appear in The Saskatoon StarPhoenix and her desserts can be enjoyed at Riverside Country Club Also check out her blog wwwsweetsugarbeancom

The Toppings

Cheesecake with no fun toppings is like a salad with no dressing it just doesnrsquot reach its full flavour potential Try

ndash Salted caramel roasted strawberry sauce or warm chocolate sauce

ndash A rhubarbcardamom compote is divine on top of vanilla cheesecake kissed with a bit of lemon zest Cherry compote is divine with chocolate cheesecake

ndash Have a favourite jam Melt it down with a tiny bit of water and drizzle it on top of your favourite cheesecake

ndash Candied nuts and citrus rind chocolate shavings even crumbled cookies are a fun way to add texture to the cheesecake

ndash Never underestimate the power of fresh seasonal berries and a well-made cheesecakeMacerate them in a little sugar and minced mint or basil and they make a lovely topping Donrsquot forget the whipped cream

34

Think about that for a moment and let that sink in like a cherry in your drink

So how old is ice in bars Well thatrsquos a whole story on its own however the Old Fashioned has been talked about in one form or another since the beginning of the 19th Century The first appearance of this classic cocktail was in the Balance and Columbian Repository newspaper in 1806 as such ldquoA stimulating liquor composed of spirits of any kind sugar water and bittersrdquo

The Old FashionedAn Iconic Drink That Has Stood The Test Of Time

by BRICE PERESSINI

Sohelliphow old is the Old Fashioned The Old Fashioned is as old as ice in bars

When you follow these instructions and put this finely-crafted cocktail into your hand swirl around the ice gaze through the caramel-coloured liquid in the glass and contemplate all that has gone into it you can rest assured you are holding a drink that has delighted taste buds for generations The Old Fashioned however has not always been held in high regard There was a time not too long ago where this fine concoction was an unbalanced fruity watered-down pale imitation of itself More recently

there has been a renaissance involved with this invigorating intoxicant and you can and should expect a proper cocktail when it is ordered at a fine establishment

When this drink is properly prepared it should be in perfect balance (as any proper drink should be) The sweetness of the sugar should not cover the flavour of the bourbon and the bitters should add to not overpower the flavour of the whiskey When the Old Fashioned is well made it is as close to cocktail perfection as a sophisticated patron could expect

Befriend a bespoke barkeep at an upstanding establishment and you will be in trusted hands If you find yourself at home and wanting for a nightcap look no further than the Old Fashioned

Enjoy friends

Old Fashioned Recipe

2 oz Buffalo Trace Bourbon (or your personal favourite)4 dashes Angostura Aromatic Bitters1 raw sugar cube

Muddle the sugar and bitters together with a touch of warm water in a rocks glass Add the bourbon then add ice Stir and garnish with an orange peel and cherry (optional)

Brice is a competition cocktail bartender who plies his trade behind the wood at Chefbar Whisk(e)y is his poison Neat

35

Shoulder Season Wines

by JACLYN ADOMEIT

Wines For Cool Weather

Refreshing white wines match with sunny patios and hot days while bold tannic red wines earn their keep by a fireplace on a winter night Common sense But what about the shoulder season What if yoursquore eating sea bass on a rainy spring day Or sipping wine on a patio during an uncommonly warm April afternoon

Photograph courtesy Tom Firth

36

Wine not only pairs with food but with temperatures and seasons A bright sauvignon blanc can taste flat and acidic on a cold night at no fault of the wine or the drinker Some white wines are other-worldly at the vineyard tasting room in the summer but fall flat when you pull them out for dinner guests in the winter

The change in taste is likely due to a number of factors Anatomically it is your sinus cavities creating the change Higher atmospheric pressures allow your nose to pick out subtle aromas while lower pressures bring out a winersquos acidity and harsh tannins CO2 degasses from liquid at low pressure leaving wines dull and flat too

Serving temperature can greatly affect a winersquos aromatics white wines chilled to near-freezing have dull aromas (Tip allow the bottle a half hour on the counter before popping the cork This will allow the aromatics to warm up enhancing the flavour)

Lastly your own palate will be partial to different flavours depending on sun snow wind and sleet but as a rule of thumb higher alcohol white wines (approximately 13 percent or more) will warm the soul and pair best with cooler weather

Here are some wine selections to go for when it is not too hot and not too cold so you can choose a pairing thatrsquos just right

Fiano

Yoursquoll notice that many of the best white wines for cold weather are grown in hot places Hot climates mean a longer growing season more sugar which leads to higher alcohol and often more robust and tropical flavours All of this is true for fiano - seldom grown outside of Campania in southern Italy Fiano produces age-worthy wines which are rich nutty and delicious

Feudi Di San Gregorio 2014 Campania Fiano di Avellino Italy A beautiful floral bouquet with candied lemon followed by honey-coated hazelnuts on the palate Worth cellaring for a few seasons The perfect dance partner for poultry CSPC +708589 $33

Viognier

Viognier is a white varietal that is best consumed at slightly higher temperatures A chilly glass of viognier will leave you with acid maybe oak and not much else Allow it to warm and you may experience peach pear and toasted almond

Traditionally grown in the warm south of France viognier is often a higher alcohol white wine with rich tropical flavours The heat of the alcohol with tropical flavours and lower acid makes viognier the perfect wine to sip while watching a late spring snowfall

Paul Mas 2014 Languedoc-Roussillon Viognier France Brimming with apricot almond lemon and ripe peach Contains hints of warming oak Pair with something savoury baked brie or spinach-filled puff pastry CSPC + 740978 $17

Dry Roseacute

There is so much more to be had from roseacute than white zinfandel And no itrsquos not just a mix of red and white wine The best roseacute is made from red skinned grapes that only sit on their skins for up to a day and a half to borrow colour and flavour then are fermented and processed

Refined examples of roseacute wines are often dry and have deep aromas of red fruits mild tannins and are savoury instead of sweet The French and Spanish craft great examples of dry roseacutes that are either a single varietal or a blend of grapes such as mourvegravedre grenache syrah or tempranillo

Muga Roseacute 2014 Rioja Grenache Viura and Tempranillo Spain A tamed Rioja Orange blossom woven together with strawberry and a palate of cherry and savoury soft cheese Ideal for charcuterie CSPC + 710261 $16

Orange Wine

Never heard of orange wine A commercial demand for natural wines has fostered a resurgence in ancient wine making practices While roseacute wines are reds that have been produced using white wine making practices orange wines are created from white grapes submitted to maceration and allowed to sit on the skins before fermentation the same practice employed in red winemaking

Unlike any white you have tasted orange wines are full-bodied have mild tannins and deep flavours - the characteristics that allow red wines to bring warmth to cool nights A must try for any wine buff

Allow the bottle a half hour on the counter

before popping the cork

The Bicicleta wines are characterized by their fruity expression and for offering more than

the traditional strains a clear example of this range`s innovation style and creativity

Cono Sur Vineyards amp Winery ConoSurVineyards ConoSurWinesconosurcom

The brewhouse at Wild Rose

Jaclynrsquos first passion was winemaking Shersquos worked in vineyards cellars and restaurants Currently she is a writer who daylights as an environmental engineer She believes that a good life like a good wine is not complete without balance

Nichol 2013 Naramata Pinot Gris Canada A Canadian example of orange wine with backbone Flavours of caramel apple roast nuts orange rind and peach CSPC +504159 $31

Oaked chardonnay

In and out with popular palates oak and chardonnay have been partners for a long time Oak paired with chardonnay can bring out butter richness toasted vanilla tree fruit and in the best examples shimmering minerality That is because oak aging is often accompanied by a malolactic fermentation process that smooths out rigid acids into lactic acid - the acid found in milk

Chardonnay is a grape of many talents and encounters a great diversity of production styles It is oaked examples that pair best with pensive rainy days They are full-bodied warming and complex

Wente Morning Fog 2014 Livermore Valley (California) Chardonnay USA Half oak-aged and malolactic-fermented half crisp and fresh this chardonnay brings together green apple vanilla and toasted oak A friend to cream sauce and roast chicken CSPC +175430 $18

In a province of mutable weather let your wine choices be as varied as the ever changing winds Cheers and herersquos to refined full-bodied cool-weather wines

38

Once yoursquore done with your magazine cover shoot like we did this month or prepping for dinner and have all of those odds and ends just sitting on the cutting board - you know carrot ends onion skins tips of celery stalks you get the point - donrsquot toss lsquoem

Instead place them into a large ziploc bag and straight into the freezer After a couple of weeks yoursquoll likely have four full freezer bags of vegetable bits ready to be turned into broth and herersquos how you do it

Making a big batch of vegetable broth doesnrsquot always mean a trip to the grocery store All you need to do is save those scraps This is a handy trick I learned years ago courtesy of Bon Appetit

No-Waste Vegetable Broth

by DAN CLAPSON

Odds And Ends BrothYields 8 cups (2 L)

12 cups (3 L) water4 full ziploc bags of vegetable trimmings1 yellow onion quartered4 cloves garlicAromatics of choice (I usually toss a couple of rosemary and thyme sprigs in there)To taste Salt and pepper

1 Place all ingredients in a large pot and bring to a boil on medium-high heat

2 Reduce to medium heat and let simmer uncovered for 1frac12 hours

3 Strain season to taste with salt and pepper and use as desired

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40

Salentein 2012 Reserve Chardonnay Uco Valley Argentina

Very very enjoyable chardonnay blowing me away with complexity varietal character and fine balance between oak lees and fruit Toffee baked apple tangerine and a little almond on the nose lead into silkily textured wine in the mouth Top shelf chardonnay that might be great with lobster tails mussels or poultry Around $20 CSPC +779479

Rutini 2013 Cabernet Malbec Mendoza Argentina

An exceptionally well put together blend - if you want rich berry fruits lots of body but maybe not tons of varietal characters from the individual components Lifted and bright fruits make for a very enjoyable glass Simply perfect for your next barbecue a roast or just chilling out with friends and family $26-30 CSPC +776822

Vinecol 2014 Organic Malbec Mendoza Argentina Fair Trade organic and vegan along with a good price is it still good Piles of fresh fruits (think smashed raspberries) with plenty of spice and soft herb-leaf aromas There are plenty of malbec flavours on the palate too Good for any day of the week with just a little tension between fruit tannin and acid it might be best with pub style burgers pulled pork or sausages About $16 CSPC +755296

Argentina is so much more than malbec While such a noble grape has found its best home in the high altitude vineyards of Argentina there is a lot going on with other grapes as well

Making The Case For Argentina

by TOM FIRTH

This massive country nestled up against the Andes mountains has a range of growing conditions suited to a number of grapes From Salta in the north to Patagonia in the south plenty of interesting wines are available here - many reasonably priced and of excellent quality So yes there are some

malbecs on these pages but please do try some of the other grapes and blends coming from Argentina too

Be sure to crack open a bottle of malbec on ldquoWorld Malbec Dayrdquo April 17 - who knows it might be nice enough to barbecue too

Photograph courtesy Tom Firth

41

Manos Negras 2011 Stone Soil Select Mendoza Argentina Quite new to the market this is a pretty enjoyable version of Argentinarsquos flagship grape Loads of blue fruit and raspberries with spices galore and a little compost Rich flavours lead to a lengthy spicy finish Yes please Bring to a barbecue if you can $21 CSPC +630541

Zuccardi 2012 Zeta Mendoza Argentina

A malbec-cabernet sauvignon blend that is also a blend of two different Mendoza appellations La Consulta and Gualtallary Deep and abundant fruit aromas with liquorice root and a touch of blueberry preserves Excellent balance of flavours on the palate too with the right structure and tannin for aging if desired Enjoy with a prime rib or even meaty pasta dishes or game $50-52 CSPC +740270

Zuccardi 2012 ldquoEmmardquo Bonarda Mendoza Argentina

In my humble opinion one of the finest bonardas coming out of Argentina Notes of coffee bean and espresso complement cherry and blackberry fruits with healthy balanced tannins to stand up to the tart fruits Delicious for sure enjoy at your next barbecue $40 CSPC +758407

Luigi Bosca 2011 Cabernet-Malbec Mendoza Argentina

A wonderfully earthy and savoury blend with plenty of tobacco spice leather and yes lots of fruit too The earthy flavours work well with the big dark chocolate flavours and weighty tannins Drink now or through 2020 or so - with a steak naturally $22-24 CSPC +766010

Trivento 2013 Golden Reserve Malbec Lujan de Cuyo Argentina While there is a trend to see a lot of premium malbecs move away from oak presence this one is a bold smooth and delicious example that is seeing about a year of oak All those berry fruits plums and herb notes malbec is known for along with the smoothness that only oak brings Kick back relax maybe cook up some steaks - enjoy About $24 CSPC +711402

Trivento 2014 Malbec Reserve Mendoza Argentina Nearly unbeatable for good malbec at a great price itrsquos rich and chocolatey on the nose with big fruits and oak tones too Mild garrigue notes or dried herb flavours with plenty of fruit and tannins - still showing a fine sense of balance Enjoy with beef $14 CSPC +730714

Luigi Bosca 2011 De Sangre Mendoza Argentina A blend of cabernet sauvignon merlot and syrah that manages to pull out the best of each varietal Earthy and slightly smoky with good fruits and plenty of versatility Tannins are well-placed against the fruits with a long smooth finish Irsquove been a fan of this wine year after year Good to keep a couple on hand in the cellar About $29 CSPC +745106

Salentein 2012 Numina Gran Corte Uco Valley Argentina A malbec-dominated Bordeaux blend this stunner is all about ripe fruits cedar pepper cherries and plum with a little tealeaf and the right amount of tannins Very very well balanced and like any great wine think about some food to go with it Beef tenderloin slow cooked meats or maybe at your next asadohellip About $40 CSPC +764706

Colonia Las Liebres 2013 Bonarda Mendoza Argentina Bear with me here - a fine bonarda with plenty of earthy smoky aromas leading to rubber charred cherries and cocoa Some pretty prominent tannins to be found as well but wow does it all come together A wine that just begs for duck with cranberries or maybe some kebabshellip$20 CSPC +773381

42

Open That Bottleby LINDA GARSON photography by INGRID KUENZEL

ldquoIf you work in a place and yoursquore miserable I donrsquot know if there is a dollar amount that can be attached to that The work that yoursquore doing has to be rewarding and challengingrdquo says Karen KhoGrowing up in Niagara Falls in a Philippino SpanishChinese family Kho was surrounded by food and drinks with an open door policy that has had a huge influence on the person she is today - an

entertainer who likes to make people feel welcome ldquoMy parents wanted me to be a lawyer there was definitely an encouragement to use my voice for goodrdquo she explains ldquoAnd I still think I help people but in a different way a very social wayrdquo

Graduating Western University with a political science degree in 2000 Kho spent a year travelling and living in Australia before taking a leap of faith and moving to Calgary Here she studied wine with the International Sommeliers Guild and WSET but says her real education was a job she adored working in the wine trade at BIN 905 in tandem with running wine programs for CRMR restaurants It was only when the opportunity came to create the wine program at Vin Room six years later that Kho leapt at the challenge of a new idea for the city and spent four happy years there

Eventually she and her partner decided to stretch their wings and went to Vancouver where Kho embarked on a six-month culinary course at the Pacific Institute of Culinary Arts ticking off another box on her bucket list ldquoI wanted a greater understanding of technique in the kitchen and I wanted an understanding of what service on a very basic level would look like if I ever owned my own place and ever had to be the person who filled inrdquo she says ldquoI feel if I was ever in a place that needed someone to chop onions Irsquom your womanrdquo she laughs

A year later the pair came back with the idea of eventually opening their own business in Calgary ldquoThe support we get from this community is heartfelt and this is a city of opportunity People with the right concept are seeing a lot of great success itrsquos still our game planrdquo she says Meanwhile Kho applied only to Teatro where she is now Group Service Director

ldquoI wanted to work at a place that had a challenging wine program and had a level of service with high expectations and where professional service teams

applyrdquo she says ldquoItrsquos pretty romantic to work for a company that has been built on a foundation of service Successful businesses in the restaurant industry get the grand picture which is the moments that yoursquore creating for people and I like to be a part of thatrdquo she adds

So what bottle is Kho saving for a special occasion

Paying homage to her time at BIN 905 Kho explains ldquoI have a bottle of 1996 Chateau Mouton Rothschild which was given to me with some very kind words on my last day at BIN Irsquove always just appreciated my time there it was where I learned the vernacular of wine and itrsquos my first job where I really saw the benefits of serving people with intentionrdquo She continues ldquoI always see it thankfully as the stepping-stone to a broader wine profession and eventually to the position that I have now It was given to me by very close friends that Irsquom still friends with to this dayrdquo

And when is she planning to open the wine

ldquoWhen (partner) Dave and I open our own restaurantrdquo Kho says This isnrsquot something that something that will happen tomorrow but fortunately the wine will last until theyrsquore ready

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1316-9th Avenue SE bull (403) 514-0577 bull knifewearYYC bull knifewearcom

Culinaire April 2016indd 2 2016-03-04 501 PM

Dan Clapson is a freelance food writer and columnist in Calgary When hersquos not writing about Canadarsquos amazing culinary scene he is likely listening to 80s rock or 90s boy bands Follow him on twitter dansgoodside

Spinach and Cashew Soup with Poblano and Scallion Salsa

Serves 4 Total cook time 30 minutes not including cashew soak time

Soup1frac12 cups roasted cashews2 cups (500 mL) water4 cups (1 L) vegetable broth4 cups cooked spinach1 Tbs (15 mL) apple cider vinegar1 Tbs (15 mL) maple syrupfrac12 tsp cayenne peppersalt and pepper to tastecashew butter for garnish optional

1 Place cashews and water in a container cover and let sit on counter overnight

2 Combine cashews water and remaining soup ingredients in a blender and pureacutee until very smooth

3 Pour contents of blender through a fine mesh strainer into a medium pot Bring to a simmer on medium-high heat and cook for 15 minutes Season to taste with salt and pepper and keep warm on stove until ready to serve

4 Place a couple of spoonfuls of the salsa into each bowl and ladle soup around it Add a couple of dollops of cashew butter for a little extra richness

Salsa1 large poblano pepper halved and seeds removed1 bunch scallions2 Tbs (30 mL) canola oil2 Tbs fresh mint roughly chopped1 tsp (5 mL) lemon juicefrac12 tsp cane sugarfrac12 tsp chili flakessalt and pepper to taste

1 Preheat oven to 400ordm F

2 Place poblano halves and scallions on a baking sheet drizzle with oil and roast until slightly charred about 15-18 minutes

3 Remove from oven allow to cool slightly then give them a rough chop

4 Add to a bowl with remaining ingredients and toss to combine Season liberally with salt and pepper

20

Photograph courtesy California Wine Institute

Ever since Napa Valley cabernet sauvignons and chardonnays bested their more historic counterparts from Bordeaux and Burgundy in the now-famous Judgment of Paris tasting in 1976 California and its flagship region have carried the torch for the bold dense fruity lushly oaked wines that brought them worldwide fame

Forty years later this sun-drenched style of wines remains both unapologetically enjoyable and wildly popular and Napa is on the bucket list of any devoted wine tourist But as tastes and trends start to evolve away from a focus on power and concentration towards greater elegance and food-friendliness winemakers in California are again taking to the frontier gravitating towards the statersquos physical and climatic extremes to explore new boundaries of flavour and complexity Californiarsquos cooler corners

California Coolby PETER VETSCH

California is a land of frontiers dangling on the edge of the Pacific home of the Gold Rush and epicentre of the New Worldrsquos insurgence onto the global wine scene

are fast becoming its second face in the world of wine

Sonoma County north of San Francisco and just west of Napa is probably Californiarsquos second best-known region almost equally recognized for its cabernets chardonnays and zinfandels The largest subregion in the county taking up almost a third of its total area is the western Sonoma Coast too expansive at 500000 acres to have a distinct identity

However the western border of this appellation a razorrsquos edge straddling the ocean locally known as the ldquotruerdquo Sonoma Coast showcases the regionrsquos true character - extreme viticulture wet cool and always windy at elevations up to 2000 feet balanced on the San Andreas Fault with many vines growing above the fog line and constantly exposed to the throes of the Pacific Pinot noir takes on a unique expression here on low-yielding vines in the cool above the rest of Sonoma offering both remarkable purity of fruit and astonishing acidity and structure

Pinot is also predominant in the relatively new Santa Rita Hills subregion of the Santa Ynez Valley located an hour and a half northwest of Los Angeles and similarly perched right alongside the ocean The maritime influence dominates the microclimate and counteracts the California sun with fog and cool breezes to the point where this coastal spot becomes a near ideal substitute for chilly Burgundy Here the core Burgundian varietals of pinot noir and chardonnay thrive in a particularly striking edgy way

Santa Ynez is the only wine region in the western hemisphere where the arearsquos defining mountain range runs east-west instead of north-south creating a sort of maritime wind tunnel that sucks cold Pacific air eastward This leads to some of the largest diurnal (day to night) temperature shifts in North America and allows inland grapes ripening in the scorching daytime heat to recharge and maintain acidity at night This special geological feature allows a wide range of reds in Santa Ynez to be juicy but still structured bold yet balanced from cabernet and merlot to syrah and grenache

Halfway between the Sonoma Coast to the north and the Santa Rita Hills to the south along yet another coastline

California can comfortably both provide continuity

and defy stereotype

Wine Picks

Peter is a local lawyer by day and wine writer by night maintaining his own wine blog at popandpourca He is always on the lookout for the next way to experience wine and the next good bottle to try

A LITTLE SIBLING RIVALRY NEVER HURT ANYBODY

FOUR SETTINGS ONE PHILOSOPHY crmrcom338 - 17th Avenue SW

c i l a n t ro

747 Lake Bonavista Dr SE113 - 8th Avenue SW 340 - 17th Avenue SW

Sequoia Grove 2012 Cabernet Sauvignon (Napa Valley)Textbook cabernet from Naparsquos heart of Rutherford with deep black fruit mint and cedarhellip and a survivable price tag CSPC +740382 $56

Hartford Court Landrsquos Edge Vineyard Pinot Noir (Sonoma Coast)The ferocity of the Sonoma Coast somehow creates the picture of elegance in this juicy yet delicate pinot CSPC +717210 $60

Domaine de la Cote 2013 Pinot Noir (Sta Rita Hills) Seriously pushes the boundaries picked almost insanely early for low-alcohol herbal pomegranate and rhubarb acidic tension and energy CSPC +761893 $58

Alice May Crosswinds Syrah (Santa Ynez Valley) A syrahviognier Cote Rotie-style co-ferment that matches Cali ripeness with surprising verve and delicacy CSPC +761131 $28

Ridge 2013 Geyserville (Santa Cruz Mountains)This will change your expectations of zinfandel A zin-heavy field blend it combines the best of its mountain altitude and the California sun CSPC +426379 $55

just south of San Jose the wineries of the Santa Cruz Mountains prove again that those seeking to make modern moderate wines in California head both west and up The highest vineyards in Santa Cruz despite being just miles from the ocean are at 2600 feet this significant altitude and the cool Pacific climate results in chiseled wines with controlled ripeness and serious staying power

The region is both expansive and miniscule with only 1500 of its 480000 acres currently planted to grapes and its very-California plantings (cabernet chardonnay pinot noir zinfandel and merlot) all take on an Old World character and rusticity from its rugged terrain and stony mineral-laden soils Despite the challenges associated with growing grapes on a cool rock face Santa Cruz is a state leader in sustainable growing practices

The friendly sunny face of California wine is surely here to stay but Santa Cruz Santa Ynez and the Sonoma Coast are permanent proof that the state is readily capable of more than one expression With its range of climate and terrain California can comfortably both provide continuity and defy stereotype

22

En GardeA Beginnerrsquos Guide To Knives And Their Usesby ANNA BROOKS

Itrsquos difficult to imagine that sharp little number thatrsquos slicing away to the rhythm of your favourite cooking music (or to the beating of child-size fists hungry for dinner) was more often used for combat not chopping carrots

Despite King Louis XIVrsquos decree that the tips of knives be ground down to reduce violence in the mid-1600s kitchen knives still (for quite pointed reasons) make popular murder weapons

But we wonrsquot get into grisly stories of guts and gore here Whether yoursquore a chef extraordinaire or the person whose knife knowledge goes as far as cutting

vegetables with a steak knife there are some things everyone should know about knives

The first major thing we must insist upon is putting down that expensive 14-piece knife set As most knife experts can attest to three main knives can cover almost all the work that a layman cook needs to do in the kitchen

23

Three main knives can cover almost all the work that a layman cook needs

to do in the kitchen

Chefrsquos Knife Your standard knife for mincing and slicing vegetables and meat a chefrsquos knife is typically 20-25 cm long but can range all the way up to 36 cm

Luke Pickett from Knifewear is a sight to see wielding some wickedly sharp

handcrafted Japanese models but despite their carnivorous look Pickett said therersquos really nothing to fear

ldquoThere are a lot of people who are scared of really large knivesrdquo Pickett said ldquoBut having good quality kitchen equipment will make your life easierrdquo

For beginners a standard 20 cm chefrsquos knife (although Pickett said blade length is purely based on personal preference) is best to start with but a Japanese Santoku knife mdash an elegant slightly smaller version of a chefrsquos knife mdash will certainly get the job er meal done

Paring KnifeOn the other side of the knife spectrum is the pocket-sized paring knife (note carrying knives in pockets not recommended)

Regan Johnson assistant manager at The Cookbook Co said besides what the individual using a steak knife to cut everything might think the small intricate work required of a paring knife (such as peeling and trimming) should not be done on a cutting board

ldquoParing is anything you can be doing in the air mdash yoursquore not ever supposed to use a paring knife on a boardrdquo she explained

Johnson added that for someone like herself who does almost as much blade-wielding as a samurai she also recommends a utility knife

which is a hybrid of a chefrsquos knife and a paring knife

ldquoI reach for my utility knife a lotrdquo she said ldquoItrsquos got that shape of a paring knife but is longer Itrsquos just for those things in between that you donrsquot need your giant chefrsquos knife forrdquo

Bread KnifeThe last of the big three is of course a bread knife Have you ever tried to cut a loaf of bread with a straight blade Not so easy (or safe) a task

Itrsquos sometimes difficult to do but no matter the type of knife yoursquore using itrsquos important to try and slice as opposed to chopping or sawing It

is quite tempting (and often seems easier) to saw away at the crispy crust of a floured loaf of sourdough but Knifewearrsquos Pickett said sawing can

be a slippery slope to your bread knifersquos grave

ldquoIf you slice you can use the entire blade and itrsquos a lot sharper along the edgerdquo he explained ldquoItrsquos important to get a good bread knife because you canrsquot sharpen them like you can any other sort of kniferdquo

The Big Three

24

Having good quality kitchen equipment will

make your life easier

Anna Brooks is an award-winning journalist from Calgary Alberta She has worked internationally in Thailand and Africa and has been published in Metro BeatRoute Magazine and the Calgary Journal She also enjoys animal rights fantasy fiction and whiskey sours

Tips and TricksOf course you can adorn your kitchen with the countless others belonging to the knife family mdash cleavers carvers boning knives cheese knives etc mdash but if yoursquore not planning on hacking through solid bone anytime soon you probably donrsquot need to spend $200 on a meat cleaver

But there are some other knife-related implements that are important to have in your kitchen

First off a proper cutting board While plastic cutting boards are versatile and can be chucked in the dishwasher wood is really the best way to go Cutting boards are the quickest way to ruin a knife so steer clear of fancy-looking glass or granite boards mdash they are the antagonists of our story

Itrsquos also not a bad idea to have a knife honer on hand As a reminder (or for

those who had no idea what that random rod in the kitchen was used for) honers are for honing not sharpening

ldquoWith use the metal fibres in a knife edge can get bent to one side or another All yoursquore doing with honing is straightening those fibres back outrdquo Johnson from The Cookbook Co explained ldquoSharpening means yoursquore actually removing material and grinding the metal down to a finer edgerdquo

Johnson added that while you can sharpen at home she always recommends getting your knives sharpened professionally at least once a year depending on how much theyare used

Before you go back to making your lazy-day grilled cheese sandwich or that complex stew yoursquove spent hours on we just want to remind you of whatrsquos called ldquothe pinch griprdquo

Not to sound snobbish but grabbing a knife by the handle and hacking away is poor form Use your thumb and index finger to grasp the blade and then wrap your remaining fingers under the bolster of the knife Shape your other hand into a claw to protect your fingertips from accidentally getting lopped off firmly grasp the object to be cut and slice away

If this knowledge was present in the 17th century perhaps old King Louis XIV would be tipping his crown to more cooks not kitchen knife combatants

25

Times Are A Changing Unexpected Take-Outs

by LINDA GARSON and DIANA NG photography by INGRID KUENZEL

Therersquos no denying that many of our cityrsquos restaurants are feeling the effects of the current economic downturn fewer people working downtown ndash indeed fewer people working altogether and so looking to save money by eating out less means many bricks and mortar restaurants are having to get creative with ways to fully utilise their kitchens and staff

High rents exacerbate the situation so itrsquos time for Calgary restaurateurs to think outside the box and proving to be the innovative entrepreneurs that wersquore known for many are diversifying their offerings to include take-out options both raw and cooked

Catch amp The Oyster Bar launched their ldquoBuy Catchrdquo program where you can pick up fresh Ocean Wise seafood to take home and cook (complete with recipes) along with house-made clam chowder and sauces nearly two years ago There are big savings to be had over dining in with no costs for linen or staff and no expectation to tip

Here are four Calgary eateries also getting clever with take-out

programs that are not widely publicised - and may

open a few eyes

26

Centini Restaurant

Itrsquos not a cookie cutter program but the magic of Centinirsquos take-out is that you can ask the kitchen for ideas of what you should have for dinner People even text the servers for suggestions and to order Loyal customers mostly busy businessmen were asking if they catered but without the staff for such a service Centini started offering to prepare dishes for them to cook themselves

Now you can get your favourite restaurant dishes from rack of lamb with red wine demi-glace AAA Alberta beef tenderloin with Gorgonzola pan sauce and sea bass with ginger cream sauce ready to cook at home ldquoWersquore not going to open a bricks and mortar restaurant down south but our food is going thererdquo says Chevonne Centini Theyrsquore seeing pick-ups such as for people stuck at home with a new baby and even 40 people for a funeral

Boxwood

Itrsquos hard to believe that the quality of food coming from the sister restaurant to River Cafe can be had at home and we are not talking about leftovers When

People take home uncooked homemade pasta with sauce separately and even bread dough and often freeze it to cook later or pick up on a Friday evening so everything is prepared ready for Saturday dinner When buying from a restaurant yoursquore getting top quality perfectly trimmed meat everything is done for you - therersquos no shopping

around and even the parsley is chopped And as everything is custom-made all allergies are catered for too

Centini gets fish delivered once or twice every day and it may come as a surprise but with a chef garde manger that spent 15 years in Japan they have customers coming just to take out sushi

you go home to an empty fridge it feels like the only options you have are fast food or pizza Not so

Boxwoodrsquos fresh and seasonal fare is also available to take home While you wonrsquot

be able to enjoy the quaint atmosphere of the restaurant you can order anything on the menu for take out with its special offering being the whole rotisserie free-range chicken which serves two to four people for $40

Many bricks and mortar restaurants are

having to get creative with ways to fully utilise their

kitchens and staff

You will need to call a few hours ahead (the website states before 200 pm) for enough notice for the chicken but for the rest of the selection like its soups and sandwiches you can simply look up the menu online and call to place an order For a perfect night in may we suggest starting with its bison tartare then moving onto the porchetta and another main before finishing off the meal with a slice of pie

27

Gaucho

For most people the elaborate setup of Brazilian barbecue is one of its biggest attractions You may not know this and while you may not be able to take home the lively decor of Gaucho you can actually take the meal home

The spit packed tightly with freshly roasted meats the sign at the table that signals yoursquore ready for more and the roasted and caramelized pineapple that tops off the meal all contribute to the atmosphere but if all you want are the meats and sides for a hefty dinner you can certainly order the meal as a take-out

Order any of the four options (top sirloin pork loin chicken wings or mild sausage) and add three sides from the list of eight which includes a variety of salads black bean stew and rice And because you canrsquot just have one kind of meat when it comes to Brazilian barbecue you can choose additional

Safari Grill

The marinated thinly sliced BBQ short beef ribs at Safari Grill are already a must-have for those in the know but we suspect even regulars will be surprised to discover that you can pick

up uncooked ribs with your choice of seven marinades to take home and BBQ yourself

With none of the associated costs of dining in $65 buys you enough ribs for 10 people and customers actually drive

meats for $4 each Finally choose the sauce yoursquod like to accompany your meal Orders for over five people will come in a big white box and individual

orders come will in regular take-out containers For big parties do call a few hours ahead All you need to make at home is the caipirinha

from Saskatchewan to take away 10-15 lb bags of these uncooked marinated ribs Some people call and ask for them to be marinated and frozen in 5 lb bags to enjoy later as just 5-7 minutes each side on a high flame has the raw ribs ready to eat

And itrsquos not only ribs that people BBQ at home Mishkaki are skewers of marinated chicken beef and prawns and for as little as $3 each you can have a very inexpensive BBQ feast Marinated raw lamb chops are also available or ask for Samaki - a marinated whole tilapia that comes with a basting sauce to brush on You can even get uncooked samosas to cook in your oven at home

All Safari Grillrsquos regular menu can be ordered for take-out but there is no published price list for uncooked dishes so people call to order and ask - but when yoursquore picking up look out for the new jars of house-made mango and lemon pickles

28

Step By Step Go Nuts With Homemade Nutella And Waffles story and photography by NATALIE FINDLAY

There are many nutritional benefits packed into these small filberts They are rich in dietary fibre packed with folate an excellent source of vitamin E and contain mono-unsaturated fatty acids that

can help lower bad cholesterol and raise good cholesterol By making your own Nutella at home you can control the amount of sugar that is added making this delicious spread basicallyhellip a health food

Hazelnuts have a tried and true following for taking the lead role in the chocolate spread Nutella This long-standing love affair has lasted simply because they add a distinct but subtle flavour to the chocolate Truly a match that is better together than apart

These delicious and super-easy waffles make a great base for your homemade Nutella With the addition of ground hazelnuts to the batter you can deepen the hazelnut flavour and pack in more health benefits

Waffles with raspberries and white chocolate spread

29

Natalie is a freelance writer photographer and pastry chef A graduate of Cordon Bleursquos pastry program she manages her own business too to create custom-made cakes

Using the same waffle recipe from above and switching out the mashed banana and adding frac12 a medium orange ndash juice and zest ndash to the batter you have a delicious orange waffle that will highlight the white chocolate hazelnut spread recipe below

Homemade White Chocolate Hazelnut Spread Makes 1frac12 cups

1frac12 cups (200 g) whole hazelnutsfrac12 cup (70 g) icing sugar2 Tbs (30 mL) canola oil1 tsp (5 mL) vanilla extract1 cup (250g) white chocolate

Follow directions for Homemade Nutella and add the melted white chocolate at the end Pulse to combine

Macerated Raspberries with Orange Serves 6

250 g fresh raspberriesfrac12 medium orange zest and juice1 Tbs icing sugarfrac12 tsp vanilla extract

Add all ingredients into a medium bowl and stir to combine Let sit for about 1 hour

Serve your warm waffles topped with your white chocolate homemade hazelnut spread macerated berries and a dollop of whipped cream or ice cream

Note Homemade Nutella has more texture than store bought and will last around 1 month in the fridge Waffles can be made ahead and frozen Thaw and reheat in the waffle maker or the oven

Banana Fruit compoteMakes enough for 6

3 ripe bananas peeled sliced into rounds2 Tbs (30 g) butter2 Tbs (30 g) brown sugar1frac12 tsp (8 mL) vanilla extract1frac12 tsp (8 mL) bourbon

1 Add butter and sugar to a sauteacute pan over medium heat As they melt stir to combine

2 Add vanilla and bourbon than add sliced bananas and sauteacute until warmed through

Serve your warm waffles topped with your homemade hazelnut spread sauteacuteed bananas and a dollop of whipped cream or ice cream

Homemade Nutella Makes 1frac12 cups

1frac12 cups (200 g) whole hazelnutsfrac34 cup (100g) icing sugar3 Tbs (45 mL) canola oilfrac14 cup (30 g) cocoa powder1 tsp (5 mL) vanilla extract

1 Toast hazelnuts on a baking pan in a preheated 350ordm F oven for 10 - 15 minutes Keep an eye on them to make sure they donrsquot start to burn Remove from oven and let cool to the touch

2 Wrap the nuts in a kitchen towel and rub together to remove the skins This should remove most of the skins

3 Place skinless hazelnuts in a food processor on high Process the nuts until they form a smooth paste and the oils start to separate (about 5 minutes) scraping the bowl often

4 Add the icing sugar cocoa powder vanilla and canola oil to the food processor and process until fully incorporated scraping bowl of processor as needed (about 2 minutes)

Hazelnut Banana WafflesMakes 6

frac12 cup (80 g) all purpose flour1 tsp baking powderfrac12 tsp baking sodaPinch sea salt1 Tbs (15 g) icing sugar1 Tbs (10 g) ground hazelnuts6 grates whole nutmeg1 tsp ground cinnamonfrac12 cup (125 mL) buttermilk1 egg yolk2 Tbs (30 g) butter meltedfrac12 small banana peeled and mashed1 egg white

1 Sift together all dry ingredients (except the ground hazelnuts) in a medium bowl Add the ground hazelnuts and combine

2 Mash the half banana in a small bowl with a fork Add the egg buttermilk and melted butter

3 Whisk the egg white to stiff peaks

4 Whisk the wet ingredients into the dry and fold the egg white into the mixture

5 Follow the directions for your waffle pan to cook waffles for around 5 minutes or until cooked through

Note Remember to bring the waffle pan up to temperature in between each batch of waffles

Hazelnut Banana Waffles with Nutella

30

Citrus Beer Friendsby DAVID NUTTALL

This is when the taste andor aroma of a beer can remind the drinker of anything from an orange drink or lemonade to grapefruit soda There are several ways to achieve this character and these beers are becoming more and more popular every day

Hops provide the bitterness in beer and out of the literally hundreds of varieties a few impart citrus notes into the aroma and flavour Cascade and Citra are examples of two of the most popular hops used in several styles of beer most notably the American IPA or India Pale Ale Cascade hops have been around for over 40 years and it is the single most popular hop used by the American craft brewing industry It provides a floralspicy character often reminiscent of grapefruit

Citrarsquos name leaves no guessing as to its attributes A relative newcomer this cross breed of UK German and US hop varieties has been around for less than a decade but it is already an extremely popular hop for imparting

One of the great things about beer is its diversity It can come in a myriad of colours and also a wide variety of flavours citrus being one of the most distinct

Dave Nuttall has been in the liquor and event business forever He is a qualified beer judge and ownerpresident of Epicurean Calgary at epicureancalgarycom for ten years

citrus and tropical fruit characteristics to a beer

It has proven very versatile and appears in several beer styles from session ales to IPAs It has also become a favourite hop to use for dry-hopping (adding hops late into the boil) due to the exceptional aromas it produces For even more flavour and aroma craft brewers now commonly enhance these already citrusy IPAs with actual zest peel or juice from citrus fruits to create an IPAFruit Beer hybrid which sells especially well in summer months

Then there is the yeast and many varieties of yeast can produce citrusy esters The unfiltered hefeweizens brewed on both sides of the Atlantic quite often have a lemony flavour Sour beers also showcase the yeast often cultured from Belgian strains

These beers are tart and produce a gamut of flavours many with citrus qualities and some have added fruit - the easiest and most obvious way to create a citrusy beer The Belgians also add different kinds of oranges with spice additions to their wheat ales to create wit beers now emulated all over the world with different citrus (and other) fruits involved in the recipe We also canrsquot forget the radlers which are simply a lager beer mixed with 40-60 fruit juice - often grapefruit or lemonade

Whether itrsquos added fruit the yeast the hops or a combination of all of them citrusy beers are commonplace now Thanks to new hops like Citra and the increasing popularity of wits and sours we can expect this trend to continue

Here are a few local beers with hints of citrus All are also available on tap

Beer comes in a myriad of colours and flavours citrus being one of the

most distinct

Ribstone Creek Great White CombineThis tiny Edgerton Alberta brewery has been knocking it out of the park lately Named after the ubiquitous Alberta summer hailstorm the use of Belgian yeast sweet orange peel and coriander give this beer an orange flavour in the beginning When the four different hop additions kick in it changes more to a sweet lemony flavour This White IPA has a very tropical feel that makes you forget it was made in northern Alberta CSPC +774162 $16 6-pack cans

Wild Rose Cowbell Sour ales are the new Belle of the Ball at craft breweries Often using imported Belgian yeast strains they are tart tangy and wellhellip sour Calgaryrsquos Wild Rose has taken this flavour profile and added kaffir lime leaves This makes the beer more like a refreshing limeade and is less bitter than many of its other sour counterparts CSPC +778093 $17 6-pack bottles

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VENUEBMO CENTRE STAMPEDE PARK

TICKETS AVAILABLE AT ALBERTABEERFESTIVALSCOM

MAY 6-7 2016FRIDAY3-10 PM BEER GEEK VIP4-10 PM GENERAL ADMISSION

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PROUDLYPRESENTED BY

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save 15USE PROMO CODE

CUL15

Citradelic Single Hop IPA Big Rock BreweryWith breweries in two (soon to be three) provinces Big Rock now has multiple locations to develop new beers This is the first one from their Vancouver brewery and is full of lemongrapefruit flavours and tropical aromas This beer showcases the Citra hop fooling one to think that citrus has been added when itrsquos all thanks to the hop CSPC +778593 $15 6-pack bottles

Alley Kat Main SqueezeWhat started out as a summer seasonal has now become a mainstay of this Edmonton brewery A North American style wheat ale with a 50 wheat and 50 barley mix it has added grapefruit juice but tastes more along the lines of pink grapefruit rather than its more bitter cousin CSPC +733630 $17 6-pack bottles

32

story by RENEE KOHLMAN

Cheesecake is one of those classic desserts that almost everyone loves unless of course you have a dairy allergy then yoursquoll stay far far away from it While it may seem too complicated to make at home I assure you that itrsquos not

Spice it up cheesecake

Sure there are a few steps involved but the key thing to remember is to have your eggs and cream cheese at room temperature For the best crack-free cheesecake itrsquos best to bake it in a water bath It yields a light creamy texture and is well worth the effort Cheesecake always tastes better the next day so bake it the day before you want to serve it Now that wersquove got the basics down itrsquos time to have a little fun with the crust filling and toppings

The Base

The classic graham cracker crust is fine but every now and again itrsquos great to switch things up Try

ndash Grinding up ginger cookies They work especially well for a pumpkin cheesecake

ndash Chocolate cookie crumbs are fantastic for caramel peanut butter and raspberry cheesecakes

ndash Add finely chopped nuts oats or seeds to the cookie crumbs for added texture and taste

The Middle

Therersquos something to be said for a straight up vanilla or chocolate cheesecake but with some fun add-ins they could take your cheesecake to the next level of deliciousness Try

ndash Swirling tahini dulce de leche salted caramel or chocolate fudge sauce into a creamy vanilla filling

ndash Mix in chopped chocolate peanut butter cups to a chocolate filling

ndash Drop fresh berries (raspberries blueberries blackberries) on top of a vanilla filling

ndash Stir in chopped candied ginger dried cherries or cranberries chopped toasted nuts to the filling

ndash Swap some of the cream cheese with ricotta mascarpone cheese or even strained cottage cheese

ndash You can never go wrong with lemon zest in a vanilla cheesecake

Have a little fun with the crust filling

and toppings

33

Apple Crumble CheesecakeMakes about 12-14 servings Total cook and prep time 3 hours (plus overnight chilling)

I love apple crisp and I love cheesecake This recipe is a fine marriage of both and makes a more than acceptable breakfast The base is a crumble of oats and flour the middle is classic cheesecake and itrsquos topped with cinnamon apples and a buttery oat streusel

Crust 2 cups large flake oats1 cup all purpose flour cup packed brown sugarfrac34 cup butter meltedfrac12 tsp salt

Cheesecake Layer3 - 225 g packages cream cheese at room temperature cup granulated sugar1 tsp (5 mL) vanilla3 large eggs at room temperature cup (80 mL) whipping cream

Apple Layer2 apples peeled cored and sliced about 3-4 mm thick1 tsp ground cinnamonfrac12 tsp salt

Streusel Layer1 cup large flake oatsfrac12 cup all-purpose flourfrac12 cup brown sugarfrac12 cup butter softened1 tsp ground cinnamon

Preheat the oven to 375ordm F

1 Butter the bottom and sides of a 9-inch springform pan with sides that are at least 7 cm high Wrap the bottom of the pan in aluminum foil so it comes at least halfway up the sides

2 Combine the crust ingredients in a large bowl Press the crust evenly into the pan and place on a baking sheet Bake for 10 minutes Remove from oven and let it cool on a wire rack

3 Reduce heat to 325ordm F Put a kettle of water on to boil Have a large roasting pan close by

4 Using a stand mixer with a paddle attachment beat the cream cheese at medium speed for 4 minutes scraping down the sides once or twice until it is soft and creamy With the mixer still running add the sugar and beat for another 4 minutes scraping down the sides of the bowl at least twice Beat in the vanilla Add the eggs one at a time beating for 1 minute after each addition and scraping the bowl Reduce speed to low and add the whipping cream

5 Toss the sliced apples with the cinnamon and salt in a small bowl Combine all of the streusel ingredients in a medium bowl and mix well

6 Place the springform pan in the roasting pan Give the cheesecake batter a good stir and pour it on top of the crust Arrange the apples on top and sprinkle the streusel on top of the apples

7 Place in the oven on the middle rack and pour the hot water into the roasting pan so it comes halfway up the sides of the springform pan

8 Bake the cheesecake for 1frac12 hours Turn off the heat prop open the oven door and let the cheesecake hang inside for another hour

9 Carefully remove from the oven and take out the cheesecake from the hot water bath Remove the foil and let the cheesecake come to room temperature on a wire rack Cover the top lightly and refrigerate for at least 4 hours but overnight is best The next day remove the sides of the pan and serve the cake

Renee is a food writer and pastry chef living in beautiful Saskatoon Saskatchewan Her columns appear in The Saskatoon StarPhoenix and her desserts can be enjoyed at Riverside Country Club Also check out her blog wwwsweetsugarbeancom

The Toppings

Cheesecake with no fun toppings is like a salad with no dressing it just doesnrsquot reach its full flavour potential Try

ndash Salted caramel roasted strawberry sauce or warm chocolate sauce

ndash A rhubarbcardamom compote is divine on top of vanilla cheesecake kissed with a bit of lemon zest Cherry compote is divine with chocolate cheesecake

ndash Have a favourite jam Melt it down with a tiny bit of water and drizzle it on top of your favourite cheesecake

ndash Candied nuts and citrus rind chocolate shavings even crumbled cookies are a fun way to add texture to the cheesecake

ndash Never underestimate the power of fresh seasonal berries and a well-made cheesecakeMacerate them in a little sugar and minced mint or basil and they make a lovely topping Donrsquot forget the whipped cream

34

Think about that for a moment and let that sink in like a cherry in your drink

So how old is ice in bars Well thatrsquos a whole story on its own however the Old Fashioned has been talked about in one form or another since the beginning of the 19th Century The first appearance of this classic cocktail was in the Balance and Columbian Repository newspaper in 1806 as such ldquoA stimulating liquor composed of spirits of any kind sugar water and bittersrdquo

The Old FashionedAn Iconic Drink That Has Stood The Test Of Time

by BRICE PERESSINI

Sohelliphow old is the Old Fashioned The Old Fashioned is as old as ice in bars

When you follow these instructions and put this finely-crafted cocktail into your hand swirl around the ice gaze through the caramel-coloured liquid in the glass and contemplate all that has gone into it you can rest assured you are holding a drink that has delighted taste buds for generations The Old Fashioned however has not always been held in high regard There was a time not too long ago where this fine concoction was an unbalanced fruity watered-down pale imitation of itself More recently

there has been a renaissance involved with this invigorating intoxicant and you can and should expect a proper cocktail when it is ordered at a fine establishment

When this drink is properly prepared it should be in perfect balance (as any proper drink should be) The sweetness of the sugar should not cover the flavour of the bourbon and the bitters should add to not overpower the flavour of the whiskey When the Old Fashioned is well made it is as close to cocktail perfection as a sophisticated patron could expect

Befriend a bespoke barkeep at an upstanding establishment and you will be in trusted hands If you find yourself at home and wanting for a nightcap look no further than the Old Fashioned

Enjoy friends

Old Fashioned Recipe

2 oz Buffalo Trace Bourbon (or your personal favourite)4 dashes Angostura Aromatic Bitters1 raw sugar cube

Muddle the sugar and bitters together with a touch of warm water in a rocks glass Add the bourbon then add ice Stir and garnish with an orange peel and cherry (optional)

Brice is a competition cocktail bartender who plies his trade behind the wood at Chefbar Whisk(e)y is his poison Neat

35

Shoulder Season Wines

by JACLYN ADOMEIT

Wines For Cool Weather

Refreshing white wines match with sunny patios and hot days while bold tannic red wines earn their keep by a fireplace on a winter night Common sense But what about the shoulder season What if yoursquore eating sea bass on a rainy spring day Or sipping wine on a patio during an uncommonly warm April afternoon

Photograph courtesy Tom Firth

36

Wine not only pairs with food but with temperatures and seasons A bright sauvignon blanc can taste flat and acidic on a cold night at no fault of the wine or the drinker Some white wines are other-worldly at the vineyard tasting room in the summer but fall flat when you pull them out for dinner guests in the winter

The change in taste is likely due to a number of factors Anatomically it is your sinus cavities creating the change Higher atmospheric pressures allow your nose to pick out subtle aromas while lower pressures bring out a winersquos acidity and harsh tannins CO2 degasses from liquid at low pressure leaving wines dull and flat too

Serving temperature can greatly affect a winersquos aromatics white wines chilled to near-freezing have dull aromas (Tip allow the bottle a half hour on the counter before popping the cork This will allow the aromatics to warm up enhancing the flavour)

Lastly your own palate will be partial to different flavours depending on sun snow wind and sleet but as a rule of thumb higher alcohol white wines (approximately 13 percent or more) will warm the soul and pair best with cooler weather

Here are some wine selections to go for when it is not too hot and not too cold so you can choose a pairing thatrsquos just right

Fiano

Yoursquoll notice that many of the best white wines for cold weather are grown in hot places Hot climates mean a longer growing season more sugar which leads to higher alcohol and often more robust and tropical flavours All of this is true for fiano - seldom grown outside of Campania in southern Italy Fiano produces age-worthy wines which are rich nutty and delicious

Feudi Di San Gregorio 2014 Campania Fiano di Avellino Italy A beautiful floral bouquet with candied lemon followed by honey-coated hazelnuts on the palate Worth cellaring for a few seasons The perfect dance partner for poultry CSPC +708589 $33

Viognier

Viognier is a white varietal that is best consumed at slightly higher temperatures A chilly glass of viognier will leave you with acid maybe oak and not much else Allow it to warm and you may experience peach pear and toasted almond

Traditionally grown in the warm south of France viognier is often a higher alcohol white wine with rich tropical flavours The heat of the alcohol with tropical flavours and lower acid makes viognier the perfect wine to sip while watching a late spring snowfall

Paul Mas 2014 Languedoc-Roussillon Viognier France Brimming with apricot almond lemon and ripe peach Contains hints of warming oak Pair with something savoury baked brie or spinach-filled puff pastry CSPC + 740978 $17

Dry Roseacute

There is so much more to be had from roseacute than white zinfandel And no itrsquos not just a mix of red and white wine The best roseacute is made from red skinned grapes that only sit on their skins for up to a day and a half to borrow colour and flavour then are fermented and processed

Refined examples of roseacute wines are often dry and have deep aromas of red fruits mild tannins and are savoury instead of sweet The French and Spanish craft great examples of dry roseacutes that are either a single varietal or a blend of grapes such as mourvegravedre grenache syrah or tempranillo

Muga Roseacute 2014 Rioja Grenache Viura and Tempranillo Spain A tamed Rioja Orange blossom woven together with strawberry and a palate of cherry and savoury soft cheese Ideal for charcuterie CSPC + 710261 $16

Orange Wine

Never heard of orange wine A commercial demand for natural wines has fostered a resurgence in ancient wine making practices While roseacute wines are reds that have been produced using white wine making practices orange wines are created from white grapes submitted to maceration and allowed to sit on the skins before fermentation the same practice employed in red winemaking

Unlike any white you have tasted orange wines are full-bodied have mild tannins and deep flavours - the characteristics that allow red wines to bring warmth to cool nights A must try for any wine buff

Allow the bottle a half hour on the counter

before popping the cork

The Bicicleta wines are characterized by their fruity expression and for offering more than

the traditional strains a clear example of this range`s innovation style and creativity

Cono Sur Vineyards amp Winery ConoSurVineyards ConoSurWinesconosurcom

The brewhouse at Wild Rose

Jaclynrsquos first passion was winemaking Shersquos worked in vineyards cellars and restaurants Currently she is a writer who daylights as an environmental engineer She believes that a good life like a good wine is not complete without balance

Nichol 2013 Naramata Pinot Gris Canada A Canadian example of orange wine with backbone Flavours of caramel apple roast nuts orange rind and peach CSPC +504159 $31

Oaked chardonnay

In and out with popular palates oak and chardonnay have been partners for a long time Oak paired with chardonnay can bring out butter richness toasted vanilla tree fruit and in the best examples shimmering minerality That is because oak aging is often accompanied by a malolactic fermentation process that smooths out rigid acids into lactic acid - the acid found in milk

Chardonnay is a grape of many talents and encounters a great diversity of production styles It is oaked examples that pair best with pensive rainy days They are full-bodied warming and complex

Wente Morning Fog 2014 Livermore Valley (California) Chardonnay USA Half oak-aged and malolactic-fermented half crisp and fresh this chardonnay brings together green apple vanilla and toasted oak A friend to cream sauce and roast chicken CSPC +175430 $18

In a province of mutable weather let your wine choices be as varied as the ever changing winds Cheers and herersquos to refined full-bodied cool-weather wines

38

Once yoursquore done with your magazine cover shoot like we did this month or prepping for dinner and have all of those odds and ends just sitting on the cutting board - you know carrot ends onion skins tips of celery stalks you get the point - donrsquot toss lsquoem

Instead place them into a large ziploc bag and straight into the freezer After a couple of weeks yoursquoll likely have four full freezer bags of vegetable bits ready to be turned into broth and herersquos how you do it

Making a big batch of vegetable broth doesnrsquot always mean a trip to the grocery store All you need to do is save those scraps This is a handy trick I learned years ago courtesy of Bon Appetit

No-Waste Vegetable Broth

by DAN CLAPSON

Odds And Ends BrothYields 8 cups (2 L)

12 cups (3 L) water4 full ziploc bags of vegetable trimmings1 yellow onion quartered4 cloves garlicAromatics of choice (I usually toss a couple of rosemary and thyme sprigs in there)To taste Salt and pepper

1 Place all ingredients in a large pot and bring to a boil on medium-high heat

2 Reduce to medium heat and let simmer uncovered for 1frac12 hours

3 Strain season to taste with salt and pepper and use as desired

Full circlePizza amp Oyster Bar

933 17 Ave SW bull fullcirclepizzaca

buck-a-shuck oysters

$1 oysters every night

9 pm - close Sunday-thursday 11 pm - close friday amp saturday

40

Salentein 2012 Reserve Chardonnay Uco Valley Argentina

Very very enjoyable chardonnay blowing me away with complexity varietal character and fine balance between oak lees and fruit Toffee baked apple tangerine and a little almond on the nose lead into silkily textured wine in the mouth Top shelf chardonnay that might be great with lobster tails mussels or poultry Around $20 CSPC +779479

Rutini 2013 Cabernet Malbec Mendoza Argentina

An exceptionally well put together blend - if you want rich berry fruits lots of body but maybe not tons of varietal characters from the individual components Lifted and bright fruits make for a very enjoyable glass Simply perfect for your next barbecue a roast or just chilling out with friends and family $26-30 CSPC +776822

Vinecol 2014 Organic Malbec Mendoza Argentina Fair Trade organic and vegan along with a good price is it still good Piles of fresh fruits (think smashed raspberries) with plenty of spice and soft herb-leaf aromas There are plenty of malbec flavours on the palate too Good for any day of the week with just a little tension between fruit tannin and acid it might be best with pub style burgers pulled pork or sausages About $16 CSPC +755296

Argentina is so much more than malbec While such a noble grape has found its best home in the high altitude vineyards of Argentina there is a lot going on with other grapes as well

Making The Case For Argentina

by TOM FIRTH

This massive country nestled up against the Andes mountains has a range of growing conditions suited to a number of grapes From Salta in the north to Patagonia in the south plenty of interesting wines are available here - many reasonably priced and of excellent quality So yes there are some

malbecs on these pages but please do try some of the other grapes and blends coming from Argentina too

Be sure to crack open a bottle of malbec on ldquoWorld Malbec Dayrdquo April 17 - who knows it might be nice enough to barbecue too

Photograph courtesy Tom Firth

41

Manos Negras 2011 Stone Soil Select Mendoza Argentina Quite new to the market this is a pretty enjoyable version of Argentinarsquos flagship grape Loads of blue fruit and raspberries with spices galore and a little compost Rich flavours lead to a lengthy spicy finish Yes please Bring to a barbecue if you can $21 CSPC +630541

Zuccardi 2012 Zeta Mendoza Argentina

A malbec-cabernet sauvignon blend that is also a blend of two different Mendoza appellations La Consulta and Gualtallary Deep and abundant fruit aromas with liquorice root and a touch of blueberry preserves Excellent balance of flavours on the palate too with the right structure and tannin for aging if desired Enjoy with a prime rib or even meaty pasta dishes or game $50-52 CSPC +740270

Zuccardi 2012 ldquoEmmardquo Bonarda Mendoza Argentina

In my humble opinion one of the finest bonardas coming out of Argentina Notes of coffee bean and espresso complement cherry and blackberry fruits with healthy balanced tannins to stand up to the tart fruits Delicious for sure enjoy at your next barbecue $40 CSPC +758407

Luigi Bosca 2011 Cabernet-Malbec Mendoza Argentina

A wonderfully earthy and savoury blend with plenty of tobacco spice leather and yes lots of fruit too The earthy flavours work well with the big dark chocolate flavours and weighty tannins Drink now or through 2020 or so - with a steak naturally $22-24 CSPC +766010

Trivento 2013 Golden Reserve Malbec Lujan de Cuyo Argentina While there is a trend to see a lot of premium malbecs move away from oak presence this one is a bold smooth and delicious example that is seeing about a year of oak All those berry fruits plums and herb notes malbec is known for along with the smoothness that only oak brings Kick back relax maybe cook up some steaks - enjoy About $24 CSPC +711402

Trivento 2014 Malbec Reserve Mendoza Argentina Nearly unbeatable for good malbec at a great price itrsquos rich and chocolatey on the nose with big fruits and oak tones too Mild garrigue notes or dried herb flavours with plenty of fruit and tannins - still showing a fine sense of balance Enjoy with beef $14 CSPC +730714

Luigi Bosca 2011 De Sangre Mendoza Argentina A blend of cabernet sauvignon merlot and syrah that manages to pull out the best of each varietal Earthy and slightly smoky with good fruits and plenty of versatility Tannins are well-placed against the fruits with a long smooth finish Irsquove been a fan of this wine year after year Good to keep a couple on hand in the cellar About $29 CSPC +745106

Salentein 2012 Numina Gran Corte Uco Valley Argentina A malbec-dominated Bordeaux blend this stunner is all about ripe fruits cedar pepper cherries and plum with a little tealeaf and the right amount of tannins Very very well balanced and like any great wine think about some food to go with it Beef tenderloin slow cooked meats or maybe at your next asadohellip About $40 CSPC +764706

Colonia Las Liebres 2013 Bonarda Mendoza Argentina Bear with me here - a fine bonarda with plenty of earthy smoky aromas leading to rubber charred cherries and cocoa Some pretty prominent tannins to be found as well but wow does it all come together A wine that just begs for duck with cranberries or maybe some kebabshellip$20 CSPC +773381

42

Open That Bottleby LINDA GARSON photography by INGRID KUENZEL

ldquoIf you work in a place and yoursquore miserable I donrsquot know if there is a dollar amount that can be attached to that The work that yoursquore doing has to be rewarding and challengingrdquo says Karen KhoGrowing up in Niagara Falls in a Philippino SpanishChinese family Kho was surrounded by food and drinks with an open door policy that has had a huge influence on the person she is today - an

entertainer who likes to make people feel welcome ldquoMy parents wanted me to be a lawyer there was definitely an encouragement to use my voice for goodrdquo she explains ldquoAnd I still think I help people but in a different way a very social wayrdquo

Graduating Western University with a political science degree in 2000 Kho spent a year travelling and living in Australia before taking a leap of faith and moving to Calgary Here she studied wine with the International Sommeliers Guild and WSET but says her real education was a job she adored working in the wine trade at BIN 905 in tandem with running wine programs for CRMR restaurants It was only when the opportunity came to create the wine program at Vin Room six years later that Kho leapt at the challenge of a new idea for the city and spent four happy years there

Eventually she and her partner decided to stretch their wings and went to Vancouver where Kho embarked on a six-month culinary course at the Pacific Institute of Culinary Arts ticking off another box on her bucket list ldquoI wanted a greater understanding of technique in the kitchen and I wanted an understanding of what service on a very basic level would look like if I ever owned my own place and ever had to be the person who filled inrdquo she says ldquoI feel if I was ever in a place that needed someone to chop onions Irsquom your womanrdquo she laughs

A year later the pair came back with the idea of eventually opening their own business in Calgary ldquoThe support we get from this community is heartfelt and this is a city of opportunity People with the right concept are seeing a lot of great success itrsquos still our game planrdquo she says Meanwhile Kho applied only to Teatro where she is now Group Service Director

ldquoI wanted to work at a place that had a challenging wine program and had a level of service with high expectations and where professional service teams

applyrdquo she says ldquoItrsquos pretty romantic to work for a company that has been built on a foundation of service Successful businesses in the restaurant industry get the grand picture which is the moments that yoursquore creating for people and I like to be a part of thatrdquo she adds

So what bottle is Kho saving for a special occasion

Paying homage to her time at BIN 905 Kho explains ldquoI have a bottle of 1996 Chateau Mouton Rothschild which was given to me with some very kind words on my last day at BIN Irsquove always just appreciated my time there it was where I learned the vernacular of wine and itrsquos my first job where I really saw the benefits of serving people with intentionrdquo She continues ldquoI always see it thankfully as the stepping-stone to a broader wine profession and eventually to the position that I have now It was given to me by very close friends that Irsquom still friends with to this dayrdquo

And when is she planning to open the wine

ldquoWhen (partner) Dave and I open our own restaurantrdquo Kho says This isnrsquot something that something that will happen tomorrow but fortunately the wine will last until theyrsquore ready

Charcoal-grilled prime cutsHand-muddled caipirinhas50+ salad bar optionsThree distinct private rooms

pampasteakhousecomcalgary

521 10 Avenue SWCalgary AB

(587) 354-3441

See this weekrsquos promotion

eatpampayyc

1316-9th Avenue SE bull (403) 514-0577 bull knifewearYYC bull knifewearcom

Culinaire April 2016indd 2 2016-03-04 501 PM

20

Photograph courtesy California Wine Institute

Ever since Napa Valley cabernet sauvignons and chardonnays bested their more historic counterparts from Bordeaux and Burgundy in the now-famous Judgment of Paris tasting in 1976 California and its flagship region have carried the torch for the bold dense fruity lushly oaked wines that brought them worldwide fame

Forty years later this sun-drenched style of wines remains both unapologetically enjoyable and wildly popular and Napa is on the bucket list of any devoted wine tourist But as tastes and trends start to evolve away from a focus on power and concentration towards greater elegance and food-friendliness winemakers in California are again taking to the frontier gravitating towards the statersquos physical and climatic extremes to explore new boundaries of flavour and complexity Californiarsquos cooler corners

California Coolby PETER VETSCH

California is a land of frontiers dangling on the edge of the Pacific home of the Gold Rush and epicentre of the New Worldrsquos insurgence onto the global wine scene

are fast becoming its second face in the world of wine

Sonoma County north of San Francisco and just west of Napa is probably Californiarsquos second best-known region almost equally recognized for its cabernets chardonnays and zinfandels The largest subregion in the county taking up almost a third of its total area is the western Sonoma Coast too expansive at 500000 acres to have a distinct identity

However the western border of this appellation a razorrsquos edge straddling the ocean locally known as the ldquotruerdquo Sonoma Coast showcases the regionrsquos true character - extreme viticulture wet cool and always windy at elevations up to 2000 feet balanced on the San Andreas Fault with many vines growing above the fog line and constantly exposed to the throes of the Pacific Pinot noir takes on a unique expression here on low-yielding vines in the cool above the rest of Sonoma offering both remarkable purity of fruit and astonishing acidity and structure

Pinot is also predominant in the relatively new Santa Rita Hills subregion of the Santa Ynez Valley located an hour and a half northwest of Los Angeles and similarly perched right alongside the ocean The maritime influence dominates the microclimate and counteracts the California sun with fog and cool breezes to the point where this coastal spot becomes a near ideal substitute for chilly Burgundy Here the core Burgundian varietals of pinot noir and chardonnay thrive in a particularly striking edgy way

Santa Ynez is the only wine region in the western hemisphere where the arearsquos defining mountain range runs east-west instead of north-south creating a sort of maritime wind tunnel that sucks cold Pacific air eastward This leads to some of the largest diurnal (day to night) temperature shifts in North America and allows inland grapes ripening in the scorching daytime heat to recharge and maintain acidity at night This special geological feature allows a wide range of reds in Santa Ynez to be juicy but still structured bold yet balanced from cabernet and merlot to syrah and grenache

Halfway between the Sonoma Coast to the north and the Santa Rita Hills to the south along yet another coastline

California can comfortably both provide continuity

and defy stereotype

Wine Picks

Peter is a local lawyer by day and wine writer by night maintaining his own wine blog at popandpourca He is always on the lookout for the next way to experience wine and the next good bottle to try

A LITTLE SIBLING RIVALRY NEVER HURT ANYBODY

FOUR SETTINGS ONE PHILOSOPHY crmrcom338 - 17th Avenue SW

c i l a n t ro

747 Lake Bonavista Dr SE113 - 8th Avenue SW 340 - 17th Avenue SW

Sequoia Grove 2012 Cabernet Sauvignon (Napa Valley)Textbook cabernet from Naparsquos heart of Rutherford with deep black fruit mint and cedarhellip and a survivable price tag CSPC +740382 $56

Hartford Court Landrsquos Edge Vineyard Pinot Noir (Sonoma Coast)The ferocity of the Sonoma Coast somehow creates the picture of elegance in this juicy yet delicate pinot CSPC +717210 $60

Domaine de la Cote 2013 Pinot Noir (Sta Rita Hills) Seriously pushes the boundaries picked almost insanely early for low-alcohol herbal pomegranate and rhubarb acidic tension and energy CSPC +761893 $58

Alice May Crosswinds Syrah (Santa Ynez Valley) A syrahviognier Cote Rotie-style co-ferment that matches Cali ripeness with surprising verve and delicacy CSPC +761131 $28

Ridge 2013 Geyserville (Santa Cruz Mountains)This will change your expectations of zinfandel A zin-heavy field blend it combines the best of its mountain altitude and the California sun CSPC +426379 $55

just south of San Jose the wineries of the Santa Cruz Mountains prove again that those seeking to make modern moderate wines in California head both west and up The highest vineyards in Santa Cruz despite being just miles from the ocean are at 2600 feet this significant altitude and the cool Pacific climate results in chiseled wines with controlled ripeness and serious staying power

The region is both expansive and miniscule with only 1500 of its 480000 acres currently planted to grapes and its very-California plantings (cabernet chardonnay pinot noir zinfandel and merlot) all take on an Old World character and rusticity from its rugged terrain and stony mineral-laden soils Despite the challenges associated with growing grapes on a cool rock face Santa Cruz is a state leader in sustainable growing practices

The friendly sunny face of California wine is surely here to stay but Santa Cruz Santa Ynez and the Sonoma Coast are permanent proof that the state is readily capable of more than one expression With its range of climate and terrain California can comfortably both provide continuity and defy stereotype

22

En GardeA Beginnerrsquos Guide To Knives And Their Usesby ANNA BROOKS

Itrsquos difficult to imagine that sharp little number thatrsquos slicing away to the rhythm of your favourite cooking music (or to the beating of child-size fists hungry for dinner) was more often used for combat not chopping carrots

Despite King Louis XIVrsquos decree that the tips of knives be ground down to reduce violence in the mid-1600s kitchen knives still (for quite pointed reasons) make popular murder weapons

But we wonrsquot get into grisly stories of guts and gore here Whether yoursquore a chef extraordinaire or the person whose knife knowledge goes as far as cutting

vegetables with a steak knife there are some things everyone should know about knives

The first major thing we must insist upon is putting down that expensive 14-piece knife set As most knife experts can attest to three main knives can cover almost all the work that a layman cook needs to do in the kitchen

23

Three main knives can cover almost all the work that a layman cook needs

to do in the kitchen

Chefrsquos Knife Your standard knife for mincing and slicing vegetables and meat a chefrsquos knife is typically 20-25 cm long but can range all the way up to 36 cm

Luke Pickett from Knifewear is a sight to see wielding some wickedly sharp

handcrafted Japanese models but despite their carnivorous look Pickett said therersquos really nothing to fear

ldquoThere are a lot of people who are scared of really large knivesrdquo Pickett said ldquoBut having good quality kitchen equipment will make your life easierrdquo

For beginners a standard 20 cm chefrsquos knife (although Pickett said blade length is purely based on personal preference) is best to start with but a Japanese Santoku knife mdash an elegant slightly smaller version of a chefrsquos knife mdash will certainly get the job er meal done

Paring KnifeOn the other side of the knife spectrum is the pocket-sized paring knife (note carrying knives in pockets not recommended)

Regan Johnson assistant manager at The Cookbook Co said besides what the individual using a steak knife to cut everything might think the small intricate work required of a paring knife (such as peeling and trimming) should not be done on a cutting board

ldquoParing is anything you can be doing in the air mdash yoursquore not ever supposed to use a paring knife on a boardrdquo she explained

Johnson added that for someone like herself who does almost as much blade-wielding as a samurai she also recommends a utility knife

which is a hybrid of a chefrsquos knife and a paring knife

ldquoI reach for my utility knife a lotrdquo she said ldquoItrsquos got that shape of a paring knife but is longer Itrsquos just for those things in between that you donrsquot need your giant chefrsquos knife forrdquo

Bread KnifeThe last of the big three is of course a bread knife Have you ever tried to cut a loaf of bread with a straight blade Not so easy (or safe) a task

Itrsquos sometimes difficult to do but no matter the type of knife yoursquore using itrsquos important to try and slice as opposed to chopping or sawing It

is quite tempting (and often seems easier) to saw away at the crispy crust of a floured loaf of sourdough but Knifewearrsquos Pickett said sawing can

be a slippery slope to your bread knifersquos grave

ldquoIf you slice you can use the entire blade and itrsquos a lot sharper along the edgerdquo he explained ldquoItrsquos important to get a good bread knife because you canrsquot sharpen them like you can any other sort of kniferdquo

The Big Three

24

Having good quality kitchen equipment will

make your life easier

Anna Brooks is an award-winning journalist from Calgary Alberta She has worked internationally in Thailand and Africa and has been published in Metro BeatRoute Magazine and the Calgary Journal She also enjoys animal rights fantasy fiction and whiskey sours

Tips and TricksOf course you can adorn your kitchen with the countless others belonging to the knife family mdash cleavers carvers boning knives cheese knives etc mdash but if yoursquore not planning on hacking through solid bone anytime soon you probably donrsquot need to spend $200 on a meat cleaver

But there are some other knife-related implements that are important to have in your kitchen

First off a proper cutting board While plastic cutting boards are versatile and can be chucked in the dishwasher wood is really the best way to go Cutting boards are the quickest way to ruin a knife so steer clear of fancy-looking glass or granite boards mdash they are the antagonists of our story

Itrsquos also not a bad idea to have a knife honer on hand As a reminder (or for

those who had no idea what that random rod in the kitchen was used for) honers are for honing not sharpening

ldquoWith use the metal fibres in a knife edge can get bent to one side or another All yoursquore doing with honing is straightening those fibres back outrdquo Johnson from The Cookbook Co explained ldquoSharpening means yoursquore actually removing material and grinding the metal down to a finer edgerdquo

Johnson added that while you can sharpen at home she always recommends getting your knives sharpened professionally at least once a year depending on how much theyare used

Before you go back to making your lazy-day grilled cheese sandwich or that complex stew yoursquove spent hours on we just want to remind you of whatrsquos called ldquothe pinch griprdquo

Not to sound snobbish but grabbing a knife by the handle and hacking away is poor form Use your thumb and index finger to grasp the blade and then wrap your remaining fingers under the bolster of the knife Shape your other hand into a claw to protect your fingertips from accidentally getting lopped off firmly grasp the object to be cut and slice away

If this knowledge was present in the 17th century perhaps old King Louis XIV would be tipping his crown to more cooks not kitchen knife combatants

25

Times Are A Changing Unexpected Take-Outs

by LINDA GARSON and DIANA NG photography by INGRID KUENZEL

Therersquos no denying that many of our cityrsquos restaurants are feeling the effects of the current economic downturn fewer people working downtown ndash indeed fewer people working altogether and so looking to save money by eating out less means many bricks and mortar restaurants are having to get creative with ways to fully utilise their kitchens and staff

High rents exacerbate the situation so itrsquos time for Calgary restaurateurs to think outside the box and proving to be the innovative entrepreneurs that wersquore known for many are diversifying their offerings to include take-out options both raw and cooked

Catch amp The Oyster Bar launched their ldquoBuy Catchrdquo program where you can pick up fresh Ocean Wise seafood to take home and cook (complete with recipes) along with house-made clam chowder and sauces nearly two years ago There are big savings to be had over dining in with no costs for linen or staff and no expectation to tip

Here are four Calgary eateries also getting clever with take-out

programs that are not widely publicised - and may

open a few eyes

26

Centini Restaurant

Itrsquos not a cookie cutter program but the magic of Centinirsquos take-out is that you can ask the kitchen for ideas of what you should have for dinner People even text the servers for suggestions and to order Loyal customers mostly busy businessmen were asking if they catered but without the staff for such a service Centini started offering to prepare dishes for them to cook themselves

Now you can get your favourite restaurant dishes from rack of lamb with red wine demi-glace AAA Alberta beef tenderloin with Gorgonzola pan sauce and sea bass with ginger cream sauce ready to cook at home ldquoWersquore not going to open a bricks and mortar restaurant down south but our food is going thererdquo says Chevonne Centini Theyrsquore seeing pick-ups such as for people stuck at home with a new baby and even 40 people for a funeral

Boxwood

Itrsquos hard to believe that the quality of food coming from the sister restaurant to River Cafe can be had at home and we are not talking about leftovers When

People take home uncooked homemade pasta with sauce separately and even bread dough and often freeze it to cook later or pick up on a Friday evening so everything is prepared ready for Saturday dinner When buying from a restaurant yoursquore getting top quality perfectly trimmed meat everything is done for you - therersquos no shopping

around and even the parsley is chopped And as everything is custom-made all allergies are catered for too

Centini gets fish delivered once or twice every day and it may come as a surprise but with a chef garde manger that spent 15 years in Japan they have customers coming just to take out sushi

you go home to an empty fridge it feels like the only options you have are fast food or pizza Not so

Boxwoodrsquos fresh and seasonal fare is also available to take home While you wonrsquot

be able to enjoy the quaint atmosphere of the restaurant you can order anything on the menu for take out with its special offering being the whole rotisserie free-range chicken which serves two to four people for $40

Many bricks and mortar restaurants are

having to get creative with ways to fully utilise their

kitchens and staff

You will need to call a few hours ahead (the website states before 200 pm) for enough notice for the chicken but for the rest of the selection like its soups and sandwiches you can simply look up the menu online and call to place an order For a perfect night in may we suggest starting with its bison tartare then moving onto the porchetta and another main before finishing off the meal with a slice of pie

27

Gaucho

For most people the elaborate setup of Brazilian barbecue is one of its biggest attractions You may not know this and while you may not be able to take home the lively decor of Gaucho you can actually take the meal home

The spit packed tightly with freshly roasted meats the sign at the table that signals yoursquore ready for more and the roasted and caramelized pineapple that tops off the meal all contribute to the atmosphere but if all you want are the meats and sides for a hefty dinner you can certainly order the meal as a take-out

Order any of the four options (top sirloin pork loin chicken wings or mild sausage) and add three sides from the list of eight which includes a variety of salads black bean stew and rice And because you canrsquot just have one kind of meat when it comes to Brazilian barbecue you can choose additional

Safari Grill

The marinated thinly sliced BBQ short beef ribs at Safari Grill are already a must-have for those in the know but we suspect even regulars will be surprised to discover that you can pick

up uncooked ribs with your choice of seven marinades to take home and BBQ yourself

With none of the associated costs of dining in $65 buys you enough ribs for 10 people and customers actually drive

meats for $4 each Finally choose the sauce yoursquod like to accompany your meal Orders for over five people will come in a big white box and individual

orders come will in regular take-out containers For big parties do call a few hours ahead All you need to make at home is the caipirinha

from Saskatchewan to take away 10-15 lb bags of these uncooked marinated ribs Some people call and ask for them to be marinated and frozen in 5 lb bags to enjoy later as just 5-7 minutes each side on a high flame has the raw ribs ready to eat

And itrsquos not only ribs that people BBQ at home Mishkaki are skewers of marinated chicken beef and prawns and for as little as $3 each you can have a very inexpensive BBQ feast Marinated raw lamb chops are also available or ask for Samaki - a marinated whole tilapia that comes with a basting sauce to brush on You can even get uncooked samosas to cook in your oven at home

All Safari Grillrsquos regular menu can be ordered for take-out but there is no published price list for uncooked dishes so people call to order and ask - but when yoursquore picking up look out for the new jars of house-made mango and lemon pickles

28

Step By Step Go Nuts With Homemade Nutella And Waffles story and photography by NATALIE FINDLAY

There are many nutritional benefits packed into these small filberts They are rich in dietary fibre packed with folate an excellent source of vitamin E and contain mono-unsaturated fatty acids that

can help lower bad cholesterol and raise good cholesterol By making your own Nutella at home you can control the amount of sugar that is added making this delicious spread basicallyhellip a health food

Hazelnuts have a tried and true following for taking the lead role in the chocolate spread Nutella This long-standing love affair has lasted simply because they add a distinct but subtle flavour to the chocolate Truly a match that is better together than apart

These delicious and super-easy waffles make a great base for your homemade Nutella With the addition of ground hazelnuts to the batter you can deepen the hazelnut flavour and pack in more health benefits

Waffles with raspberries and white chocolate spread

29

Natalie is a freelance writer photographer and pastry chef A graduate of Cordon Bleursquos pastry program she manages her own business too to create custom-made cakes

Using the same waffle recipe from above and switching out the mashed banana and adding frac12 a medium orange ndash juice and zest ndash to the batter you have a delicious orange waffle that will highlight the white chocolate hazelnut spread recipe below

Homemade White Chocolate Hazelnut Spread Makes 1frac12 cups

1frac12 cups (200 g) whole hazelnutsfrac12 cup (70 g) icing sugar2 Tbs (30 mL) canola oil1 tsp (5 mL) vanilla extract1 cup (250g) white chocolate

Follow directions for Homemade Nutella and add the melted white chocolate at the end Pulse to combine

Macerated Raspberries with Orange Serves 6

250 g fresh raspberriesfrac12 medium orange zest and juice1 Tbs icing sugarfrac12 tsp vanilla extract

Add all ingredients into a medium bowl and stir to combine Let sit for about 1 hour

Serve your warm waffles topped with your white chocolate homemade hazelnut spread macerated berries and a dollop of whipped cream or ice cream

Note Homemade Nutella has more texture than store bought and will last around 1 month in the fridge Waffles can be made ahead and frozen Thaw and reheat in the waffle maker or the oven

Banana Fruit compoteMakes enough for 6

3 ripe bananas peeled sliced into rounds2 Tbs (30 g) butter2 Tbs (30 g) brown sugar1frac12 tsp (8 mL) vanilla extract1frac12 tsp (8 mL) bourbon

1 Add butter and sugar to a sauteacute pan over medium heat As they melt stir to combine

2 Add vanilla and bourbon than add sliced bananas and sauteacute until warmed through

Serve your warm waffles topped with your homemade hazelnut spread sauteacuteed bananas and a dollop of whipped cream or ice cream

Homemade Nutella Makes 1frac12 cups

1frac12 cups (200 g) whole hazelnutsfrac34 cup (100g) icing sugar3 Tbs (45 mL) canola oilfrac14 cup (30 g) cocoa powder1 tsp (5 mL) vanilla extract

1 Toast hazelnuts on a baking pan in a preheated 350ordm F oven for 10 - 15 minutes Keep an eye on them to make sure they donrsquot start to burn Remove from oven and let cool to the touch

2 Wrap the nuts in a kitchen towel and rub together to remove the skins This should remove most of the skins

3 Place skinless hazelnuts in a food processor on high Process the nuts until they form a smooth paste and the oils start to separate (about 5 minutes) scraping the bowl often

4 Add the icing sugar cocoa powder vanilla and canola oil to the food processor and process until fully incorporated scraping bowl of processor as needed (about 2 minutes)

Hazelnut Banana WafflesMakes 6

frac12 cup (80 g) all purpose flour1 tsp baking powderfrac12 tsp baking sodaPinch sea salt1 Tbs (15 g) icing sugar1 Tbs (10 g) ground hazelnuts6 grates whole nutmeg1 tsp ground cinnamonfrac12 cup (125 mL) buttermilk1 egg yolk2 Tbs (30 g) butter meltedfrac12 small banana peeled and mashed1 egg white

1 Sift together all dry ingredients (except the ground hazelnuts) in a medium bowl Add the ground hazelnuts and combine

2 Mash the half banana in a small bowl with a fork Add the egg buttermilk and melted butter

3 Whisk the egg white to stiff peaks

4 Whisk the wet ingredients into the dry and fold the egg white into the mixture

5 Follow the directions for your waffle pan to cook waffles for around 5 minutes or until cooked through

Note Remember to bring the waffle pan up to temperature in between each batch of waffles

Hazelnut Banana Waffles with Nutella

30

Citrus Beer Friendsby DAVID NUTTALL

This is when the taste andor aroma of a beer can remind the drinker of anything from an orange drink or lemonade to grapefruit soda There are several ways to achieve this character and these beers are becoming more and more popular every day

Hops provide the bitterness in beer and out of the literally hundreds of varieties a few impart citrus notes into the aroma and flavour Cascade and Citra are examples of two of the most popular hops used in several styles of beer most notably the American IPA or India Pale Ale Cascade hops have been around for over 40 years and it is the single most popular hop used by the American craft brewing industry It provides a floralspicy character often reminiscent of grapefruit

Citrarsquos name leaves no guessing as to its attributes A relative newcomer this cross breed of UK German and US hop varieties has been around for less than a decade but it is already an extremely popular hop for imparting

One of the great things about beer is its diversity It can come in a myriad of colours and also a wide variety of flavours citrus being one of the most distinct

Dave Nuttall has been in the liquor and event business forever He is a qualified beer judge and ownerpresident of Epicurean Calgary at epicureancalgarycom for ten years

citrus and tropical fruit characteristics to a beer

It has proven very versatile and appears in several beer styles from session ales to IPAs It has also become a favourite hop to use for dry-hopping (adding hops late into the boil) due to the exceptional aromas it produces For even more flavour and aroma craft brewers now commonly enhance these already citrusy IPAs with actual zest peel or juice from citrus fruits to create an IPAFruit Beer hybrid which sells especially well in summer months

Then there is the yeast and many varieties of yeast can produce citrusy esters The unfiltered hefeweizens brewed on both sides of the Atlantic quite often have a lemony flavour Sour beers also showcase the yeast often cultured from Belgian strains

These beers are tart and produce a gamut of flavours many with citrus qualities and some have added fruit - the easiest and most obvious way to create a citrusy beer The Belgians also add different kinds of oranges with spice additions to their wheat ales to create wit beers now emulated all over the world with different citrus (and other) fruits involved in the recipe We also canrsquot forget the radlers which are simply a lager beer mixed with 40-60 fruit juice - often grapefruit or lemonade

Whether itrsquos added fruit the yeast the hops or a combination of all of them citrusy beers are commonplace now Thanks to new hops like Citra and the increasing popularity of wits and sours we can expect this trend to continue

Here are a few local beers with hints of citrus All are also available on tap

Beer comes in a myriad of colours and flavours citrus being one of the

most distinct

Ribstone Creek Great White CombineThis tiny Edgerton Alberta brewery has been knocking it out of the park lately Named after the ubiquitous Alberta summer hailstorm the use of Belgian yeast sweet orange peel and coriander give this beer an orange flavour in the beginning When the four different hop additions kick in it changes more to a sweet lemony flavour This White IPA has a very tropical feel that makes you forget it was made in northern Alberta CSPC +774162 $16 6-pack cans

Wild Rose Cowbell Sour ales are the new Belle of the Ball at craft breweries Often using imported Belgian yeast strains they are tart tangy and wellhellip sour Calgaryrsquos Wild Rose has taken this flavour profile and added kaffir lime leaves This makes the beer more like a refreshing limeade and is less bitter than many of its other sour counterparts CSPC +778093 $17 6-pack bottles

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TICKETS AVAILABLE AT ALBERTABEERFESTIVALSCOM

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Citradelic Single Hop IPA Big Rock BreweryWith breweries in two (soon to be three) provinces Big Rock now has multiple locations to develop new beers This is the first one from their Vancouver brewery and is full of lemongrapefruit flavours and tropical aromas This beer showcases the Citra hop fooling one to think that citrus has been added when itrsquos all thanks to the hop CSPC +778593 $15 6-pack bottles

Alley Kat Main SqueezeWhat started out as a summer seasonal has now become a mainstay of this Edmonton brewery A North American style wheat ale with a 50 wheat and 50 barley mix it has added grapefruit juice but tastes more along the lines of pink grapefruit rather than its more bitter cousin CSPC +733630 $17 6-pack bottles

32

story by RENEE KOHLMAN

Cheesecake is one of those classic desserts that almost everyone loves unless of course you have a dairy allergy then yoursquoll stay far far away from it While it may seem too complicated to make at home I assure you that itrsquos not

Spice it up cheesecake

Sure there are a few steps involved but the key thing to remember is to have your eggs and cream cheese at room temperature For the best crack-free cheesecake itrsquos best to bake it in a water bath It yields a light creamy texture and is well worth the effort Cheesecake always tastes better the next day so bake it the day before you want to serve it Now that wersquove got the basics down itrsquos time to have a little fun with the crust filling and toppings

The Base

The classic graham cracker crust is fine but every now and again itrsquos great to switch things up Try

ndash Grinding up ginger cookies They work especially well for a pumpkin cheesecake

ndash Chocolate cookie crumbs are fantastic for caramel peanut butter and raspberry cheesecakes

ndash Add finely chopped nuts oats or seeds to the cookie crumbs for added texture and taste

The Middle

Therersquos something to be said for a straight up vanilla or chocolate cheesecake but with some fun add-ins they could take your cheesecake to the next level of deliciousness Try

ndash Swirling tahini dulce de leche salted caramel or chocolate fudge sauce into a creamy vanilla filling

ndash Mix in chopped chocolate peanut butter cups to a chocolate filling

ndash Drop fresh berries (raspberries blueberries blackberries) on top of a vanilla filling

ndash Stir in chopped candied ginger dried cherries or cranberries chopped toasted nuts to the filling

ndash Swap some of the cream cheese with ricotta mascarpone cheese or even strained cottage cheese

ndash You can never go wrong with lemon zest in a vanilla cheesecake

Have a little fun with the crust filling

and toppings

33

Apple Crumble CheesecakeMakes about 12-14 servings Total cook and prep time 3 hours (plus overnight chilling)

I love apple crisp and I love cheesecake This recipe is a fine marriage of both and makes a more than acceptable breakfast The base is a crumble of oats and flour the middle is classic cheesecake and itrsquos topped with cinnamon apples and a buttery oat streusel

Crust 2 cups large flake oats1 cup all purpose flour cup packed brown sugarfrac34 cup butter meltedfrac12 tsp salt

Cheesecake Layer3 - 225 g packages cream cheese at room temperature cup granulated sugar1 tsp (5 mL) vanilla3 large eggs at room temperature cup (80 mL) whipping cream

Apple Layer2 apples peeled cored and sliced about 3-4 mm thick1 tsp ground cinnamonfrac12 tsp salt

Streusel Layer1 cup large flake oatsfrac12 cup all-purpose flourfrac12 cup brown sugarfrac12 cup butter softened1 tsp ground cinnamon

Preheat the oven to 375ordm F

1 Butter the bottom and sides of a 9-inch springform pan with sides that are at least 7 cm high Wrap the bottom of the pan in aluminum foil so it comes at least halfway up the sides

2 Combine the crust ingredients in a large bowl Press the crust evenly into the pan and place on a baking sheet Bake for 10 minutes Remove from oven and let it cool on a wire rack

3 Reduce heat to 325ordm F Put a kettle of water on to boil Have a large roasting pan close by

4 Using a stand mixer with a paddle attachment beat the cream cheese at medium speed for 4 minutes scraping down the sides once or twice until it is soft and creamy With the mixer still running add the sugar and beat for another 4 minutes scraping down the sides of the bowl at least twice Beat in the vanilla Add the eggs one at a time beating for 1 minute after each addition and scraping the bowl Reduce speed to low and add the whipping cream

5 Toss the sliced apples with the cinnamon and salt in a small bowl Combine all of the streusel ingredients in a medium bowl and mix well

6 Place the springform pan in the roasting pan Give the cheesecake batter a good stir and pour it on top of the crust Arrange the apples on top and sprinkle the streusel on top of the apples

7 Place in the oven on the middle rack and pour the hot water into the roasting pan so it comes halfway up the sides of the springform pan

8 Bake the cheesecake for 1frac12 hours Turn off the heat prop open the oven door and let the cheesecake hang inside for another hour

9 Carefully remove from the oven and take out the cheesecake from the hot water bath Remove the foil and let the cheesecake come to room temperature on a wire rack Cover the top lightly and refrigerate for at least 4 hours but overnight is best The next day remove the sides of the pan and serve the cake

Renee is a food writer and pastry chef living in beautiful Saskatoon Saskatchewan Her columns appear in The Saskatoon StarPhoenix and her desserts can be enjoyed at Riverside Country Club Also check out her blog wwwsweetsugarbeancom

The Toppings

Cheesecake with no fun toppings is like a salad with no dressing it just doesnrsquot reach its full flavour potential Try

ndash Salted caramel roasted strawberry sauce or warm chocolate sauce

ndash A rhubarbcardamom compote is divine on top of vanilla cheesecake kissed with a bit of lemon zest Cherry compote is divine with chocolate cheesecake

ndash Have a favourite jam Melt it down with a tiny bit of water and drizzle it on top of your favourite cheesecake

ndash Candied nuts and citrus rind chocolate shavings even crumbled cookies are a fun way to add texture to the cheesecake

ndash Never underestimate the power of fresh seasonal berries and a well-made cheesecakeMacerate them in a little sugar and minced mint or basil and they make a lovely topping Donrsquot forget the whipped cream

34

Think about that for a moment and let that sink in like a cherry in your drink

So how old is ice in bars Well thatrsquos a whole story on its own however the Old Fashioned has been talked about in one form or another since the beginning of the 19th Century The first appearance of this classic cocktail was in the Balance and Columbian Repository newspaper in 1806 as such ldquoA stimulating liquor composed of spirits of any kind sugar water and bittersrdquo

The Old FashionedAn Iconic Drink That Has Stood The Test Of Time

by BRICE PERESSINI

Sohelliphow old is the Old Fashioned The Old Fashioned is as old as ice in bars

When you follow these instructions and put this finely-crafted cocktail into your hand swirl around the ice gaze through the caramel-coloured liquid in the glass and contemplate all that has gone into it you can rest assured you are holding a drink that has delighted taste buds for generations The Old Fashioned however has not always been held in high regard There was a time not too long ago where this fine concoction was an unbalanced fruity watered-down pale imitation of itself More recently

there has been a renaissance involved with this invigorating intoxicant and you can and should expect a proper cocktail when it is ordered at a fine establishment

When this drink is properly prepared it should be in perfect balance (as any proper drink should be) The sweetness of the sugar should not cover the flavour of the bourbon and the bitters should add to not overpower the flavour of the whiskey When the Old Fashioned is well made it is as close to cocktail perfection as a sophisticated patron could expect

Befriend a bespoke barkeep at an upstanding establishment and you will be in trusted hands If you find yourself at home and wanting for a nightcap look no further than the Old Fashioned

Enjoy friends

Old Fashioned Recipe

2 oz Buffalo Trace Bourbon (or your personal favourite)4 dashes Angostura Aromatic Bitters1 raw sugar cube

Muddle the sugar and bitters together with a touch of warm water in a rocks glass Add the bourbon then add ice Stir and garnish with an orange peel and cherry (optional)

Brice is a competition cocktail bartender who plies his trade behind the wood at Chefbar Whisk(e)y is his poison Neat

35

Shoulder Season Wines

by JACLYN ADOMEIT

Wines For Cool Weather

Refreshing white wines match with sunny patios and hot days while bold tannic red wines earn their keep by a fireplace on a winter night Common sense But what about the shoulder season What if yoursquore eating sea bass on a rainy spring day Or sipping wine on a patio during an uncommonly warm April afternoon

Photograph courtesy Tom Firth

36

Wine not only pairs with food but with temperatures and seasons A bright sauvignon blanc can taste flat and acidic on a cold night at no fault of the wine or the drinker Some white wines are other-worldly at the vineyard tasting room in the summer but fall flat when you pull them out for dinner guests in the winter

The change in taste is likely due to a number of factors Anatomically it is your sinus cavities creating the change Higher atmospheric pressures allow your nose to pick out subtle aromas while lower pressures bring out a winersquos acidity and harsh tannins CO2 degasses from liquid at low pressure leaving wines dull and flat too

Serving temperature can greatly affect a winersquos aromatics white wines chilled to near-freezing have dull aromas (Tip allow the bottle a half hour on the counter before popping the cork This will allow the aromatics to warm up enhancing the flavour)

Lastly your own palate will be partial to different flavours depending on sun snow wind and sleet but as a rule of thumb higher alcohol white wines (approximately 13 percent or more) will warm the soul and pair best with cooler weather

Here are some wine selections to go for when it is not too hot and not too cold so you can choose a pairing thatrsquos just right

Fiano

Yoursquoll notice that many of the best white wines for cold weather are grown in hot places Hot climates mean a longer growing season more sugar which leads to higher alcohol and often more robust and tropical flavours All of this is true for fiano - seldom grown outside of Campania in southern Italy Fiano produces age-worthy wines which are rich nutty and delicious

Feudi Di San Gregorio 2014 Campania Fiano di Avellino Italy A beautiful floral bouquet with candied lemon followed by honey-coated hazelnuts on the palate Worth cellaring for a few seasons The perfect dance partner for poultry CSPC +708589 $33

Viognier

Viognier is a white varietal that is best consumed at slightly higher temperatures A chilly glass of viognier will leave you with acid maybe oak and not much else Allow it to warm and you may experience peach pear and toasted almond

Traditionally grown in the warm south of France viognier is often a higher alcohol white wine with rich tropical flavours The heat of the alcohol with tropical flavours and lower acid makes viognier the perfect wine to sip while watching a late spring snowfall

Paul Mas 2014 Languedoc-Roussillon Viognier France Brimming with apricot almond lemon and ripe peach Contains hints of warming oak Pair with something savoury baked brie or spinach-filled puff pastry CSPC + 740978 $17

Dry Roseacute

There is so much more to be had from roseacute than white zinfandel And no itrsquos not just a mix of red and white wine The best roseacute is made from red skinned grapes that only sit on their skins for up to a day and a half to borrow colour and flavour then are fermented and processed

Refined examples of roseacute wines are often dry and have deep aromas of red fruits mild tannins and are savoury instead of sweet The French and Spanish craft great examples of dry roseacutes that are either a single varietal or a blend of grapes such as mourvegravedre grenache syrah or tempranillo

Muga Roseacute 2014 Rioja Grenache Viura and Tempranillo Spain A tamed Rioja Orange blossom woven together with strawberry and a palate of cherry and savoury soft cheese Ideal for charcuterie CSPC + 710261 $16

Orange Wine

Never heard of orange wine A commercial demand for natural wines has fostered a resurgence in ancient wine making practices While roseacute wines are reds that have been produced using white wine making practices orange wines are created from white grapes submitted to maceration and allowed to sit on the skins before fermentation the same practice employed in red winemaking

Unlike any white you have tasted orange wines are full-bodied have mild tannins and deep flavours - the characteristics that allow red wines to bring warmth to cool nights A must try for any wine buff

Allow the bottle a half hour on the counter

before popping the cork

The Bicicleta wines are characterized by their fruity expression and for offering more than

the traditional strains a clear example of this range`s innovation style and creativity

Cono Sur Vineyards amp Winery ConoSurVineyards ConoSurWinesconosurcom

The brewhouse at Wild Rose

Jaclynrsquos first passion was winemaking Shersquos worked in vineyards cellars and restaurants Currently she is a writer who daylights as an environmental engineer She believes that a good life like a good wine is not complete without balance

Nichol 2013 Naramata Pinot Gris Canada A Canadian example of orange wine with backbone Flavours of caramel apple roast nuts orange rind and peach CSPC +504159 $31

Oaked chardonnay

In and out with popular palates oak and chardonnay have been partners for a long time Oak paired with chardonnay can bring out butter richness toasted vanilla tree fruit and in the best examples shimmering minerality That is because oak aging is often accompanied by a malolactic fermentation process that smooths out rigid acids into lactic acid - the acid found in milk

Chardonnay is a grape of many talents and encounters a great diversity of production styles It is oaked examples that pair best with pensive rainy days They are full-bodied warming and complex

Wente Morning Fog 2014 Livermore Valley (California) Chardonnay USA Half oak-aged and malolactic-fermented half crisp and fresh this chardonnay brings together green apple vanilla and toasted oak A friend to cream sauce and roast chicken CSPC +175430 $18

In a province of mutable weather let your wine choices be as varied as the ever changing winds Cheers and herersquos to refined full-bodied cool-weather wines

38

Once yoursquore done with your magazine cover shoot like we did this month or prepping for dinner and have all of those odds and ends just sitting on the cutting board - you know carrot ends onion skins tips of celery stalks you get the point - donrsquot toss lsquoem

Instead place them into a large ziploc bag and straight into the freezer After a couple of weeks yoursquoll likely have four full freezer bags of vegetable bits ready to be turned into broth and herersquos how you do it

Making a big batch of vegetable broth doesnrsquot always mean a trip to the grocery store All you need to do is save those scraps This is a handy trick I learned years ago courtesy of Bon Appetit

No-Waste Vegetable Broth

by DAN CLAPSON

Odds And Ends BrothYields 8 cups (2 L)

12 cups (3 L) water4 full ziploc bags of vegetable trimmings1 yellow onion quartered4 cloves garlicAromatics of choice (I usually toss a couple of rosemary and thyme sprigs in there)To taste Salt and pepper

1 Place all ingredients in a large pot and bring to a boil on medium-high heat

2 Reduce to medium heat and let simmer uncovered for 1frac12 hours

3 Strain season to taste with salt and pepper and use as desired

Full circlePizza amp Oyster Bar

933 17 Ave SW bull fullcirclepizzaca

buck-a-shuck oysters

$1 oysters every night

9 pm - close Sunday-thursday 11 pm - close friday amp saturday

40

Salentein 2012 Reserve Chardonnay Uco Valley Argentina

Very very enjoyable chardonnay blowing me away with complexity varietal character and fine balance between oak lees and fruit Toffee baked apple tangerine and a little almond on the nose lead into silkily textured wine in the mouth Top shelf chardonnay that might be great with lobster tails mussels or poultry Around $20 CSPC +779479

Rutini 2013 Cabernet Malbec Mendoza Argentina

An exceptionally well put together blend - if you want rich berry fruits lots of body but maybe not tons of varietal characters from the individual components Lifted and bright fruits make for a very enjoyable glass Simply perfect for your next barbecue a roast or just chilling out with friends and family $26-30 CSPC +776822

Vinecol 2014 Organic Malbec Mendoza Argentina Fair Trade organic and vegan along with a good price is it still good Piles of fresh fruits (think smashed raspberries) with plenty of spice and soft herb-leaf aromas There are plenty of malbec flavours on the palate too Good for any day of the week with just a little tension between fruit tannin and acid it might be best with pub style burgers pulled pork or sausages About $16 CSPC +755296

Argentina is so much more than malbec While such a noble grape has found its best home in the high altitude vineyards of Argentina there is a lot going on with other grapes as well

Making The Case For Argentina

by TOM FIRTH

This massive country nestled up against the Andes mountains has a range of growing conditions suited to a number of grapes From Salta in the north to Patagonia in the south plenty of interesting wines are available here - many reasonably priced and of excellent quality So yes there are some

malbecs on these pages but please do try some of the other grapes and blends coming from Argentina too

Be sure to crack open a bottle of malbec on ldquoWorld Malbec Dayrdquo April 17 - who knows it might be nice enough to barbecue too

Photograph courtesy Tom Firth

41

Manos Negras 2011 Stone Soil Select Mendoza Argentina Quite new to the market this is a pretty enjoyable version of Argentinarsquos flagship grape Loads of blue fruit and raspberries with spices galore and a little compost Rich flavours lead to a lengthy spicy finish Yes please Bring to a barbecue if you can $21 CSPC +630541

Zuccardi 2012 Zeta Mendoza Argentina

A malbec-cabernet sauvignon blend that is also a blend of two different Mendoza appellations La Consulta and Gualtallary Deep and abundant fruit aromas with liquorice root and a touch of blueberry preserves Excellent balance of flavours on the palate too with the right structure and tannin for aging if desired Enjoy with a prime rib or even meaty pasta dishes or game $50-52 CSPC +740270

Zuccardi 2012 ldquoEmmardquo Bonarda Mendoza Argentina

In my humble opinion one of the finest bonardas coming out of Argentina Notes of coffee bean and espresso complement cherry and blackberry fruits with healthy balanced tannins to stand up to the tart fruits Delicious for sure enjoy at your next barbecue $40 CSPC +758407

Luigi Bosca 2011 Cabernet-Malbec Mendoza Argentina

A wonderfully earthy and savoury blend with plenty of tobacco spice leather and yes lots of fruit too The earthy flavours work well with the big dark chocolate flavours and weighty tannins Drink now or through 2020 or so - with a steak naturally $22-24 CSPC +766010

Trivento 2013 Golden Reserve Malbec Lujan de Cuyo Argentina While there is a trend to see a lot of premium malbecs move away from oak presence this one is a bold smooth and delicious example that is seeing about a year of oak All those berry fruits plums and herb notes malbec is known for along with the smoothness that only oak brings Kick back relax maybe cook up some steaks - enjoy About $24 CSPC +711402

Trivento 2014 Malbec Reserve Mendoza Argentina Nearly unbeatable for good malbec at a great price itrsquos rich and chocolatey on the nose with big fruits and oak tones too Mild garrigue notes or dried herb flavours with plenty of fruit and tannins - still showing a fine sense of balance Enjoy with beef $14 CSPC +730714

Luigi Bosca 2011 De Sangre Mendoza Argentina A blend of cabernet sauvignon merlot and syrah that manages to pull out the best of each varietal Earthy and slightly smoky with good fruits and plenty of versatility Tannins are well-placed against the fruits with a long smooth finish Irsquove been a fan of this wine year after year Good to keep a couple on hand in the cellar About $29 CSPC +745106

Salentein 2012 Numina Gran Corte Uco Valley Argentina A malbec-dominated Bordeaux blend this stunner is all about ripe fruits cedar pepper cherries and plum with a little tealeaf and the right amount of tannins Very very well balanced and like any great wine think about some food to go with it Beef tenderloin slow cooked meats or maybe at your next asadohellip About $40 CSPC +764706

Colonia Las Liebres 2013 Bonarda Mendoza Argentina Bear with me here - a fine bonarda with plenty of earthy smoky aromas leading to rubber charred cherries and cocoa Some pretty prominent tannins to be found as well but wow does it all come together A wine that just begs for duck with cranberries or maybe some kebabshellip$20 CSPC +773381

42

Open That Bottleby LINDA GARSON photography by INGRID KUENZEL

ldquoIf you work in a place and yoursquore miserable I donrsquot know if there is a dollar amount that can be attached to that The work that yoursquore doing has to be rewarding and challengingrdquo says Karen KhoGrowing up in Niagara Falls in a Philippino SpanishChinese family Kho was surrounded by food and drinks with an open door policy that has had a huge influence on the person she is today - an

entertainer who likes to make people feel welcome ldquoMy parents wanted me to be a lawyer there was definitely an encouragement to use my voice for goodrdquo she explains ldquoAnd I still think I help people but in a different way a very social wayrdquo

Graduating Western University with a political science degree in 2000 Kho spent a year travelling and living in Australia before taking a leap of faith and moving to Calgary Here she studied wine with the International Sommeliers Guild and WSET but says her real education was a job she adored working in the wine trade at BIN 905 in tandem with running wine programs for CRMR restaurants It was only when the opportunity came to create the wine program at Vin Room six years later that Kho leapt at the challenge of a new idea for the city and spent four happy years there

Eventually she and her partner decided to stretch their wings and went to Vancouver where Kho embarked on a six-month culinary course at the Pacific Institute of Culinary Arts ticking off another box on her bucket list ldquoI wanted a greater understanding of technique in the kitchen and I wanted an understanding of what service on a very basic level would look like if I ever owned my own place and ever had to be the person who filled inrdquo she says ldquoI feel if I was ever in a place that needed someone to chop onions Irsquom your womanrdquo she laughs

A year later the pair came back with the idea of eventually opening their own business in Calgary ldquoThe support we get from this community is heartfelt and this is a city of opportunity People with the right concept are seeing a lot of great success itrsquos still our game planrdquo she says Meanwhile Kho applied only to Teatro where she is now Group Service Director

ldquoI wanted to work at a place that had a challenging wine program and had a level of service with high expectations and where professional service teams

applyrdquo she says ldquoItrsquos pretty romantic to work for a company that has been built on a foundation of service Successful businesses in the restaurant industry get the grand picture which is the moments that yoursquore creating for people and I like to be a part of thatrdquo she adds

So what bottle is Kho saving for a special occasion

Paying homage to her time at BIN 905 Kho explains ldquoI have a bottle of 1996 Chateau Mouton Rothschild which was given to me with some very kind words on my last day at BIN Irsquove always just appreciated my time there it was where I learned the vernacular of wine and itrsquos my first job where I really saw the benefits of serving people with intentionrdquo She continues ldquoI always see it thankfully as the stepping-stone to a broader wine profession and eventually to the position that I have now It was given to me by very close friends that Irsquom still friends with to this dayrdquo

And when is she planning to open the wine

ldquoWhen (partner) Dave and I open our own restaurantrdquo Kho says This isnrsquot something that something that will happen tomorrow but fortunately the wine will last until theyrsquore ready

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Wine Picks

Peter is a local lawyer by day and wine writer by night maintaining his own wine blog at popandpourca He is always on the lookout for the next way to experience wine and the next good bottle to try

A LITTLE SIBLING RIVALRY NEVER HURT ANYBODY

FOUR SETTINGS ONE PHILOSOPHY crmrcom338 - 17th Avenue SW

c i l a n t ro

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Sequoia Grove 2012 Cabernet Sauvignon (Napa Valley)Textbook cabernet from Naparsquos heart of Rutherford with deep black fruit mint and cedarhellip and a survivable price tag CSPC +740382 $56

Hartford Court Landrsquos Edge Vineyard Pinot Noir (Sonoma Coast)The ferocity of the Sonoma Coast somehow creates the picture of elegance in this juicy yet delicate pinot CSPC +717210 $60

Domaine de la Cote 2013 Pinot Noir (Sta Rita Hills) Seriously pushes the boundaries picked almost insanely early for low-alcohol herbal pomegranate and rhubarb acidic tension and energy CSPC +761893 $58

Alice May Crosswinds Syrah (Santa Ynez Valley) A syrahviognier Cote Rotie-style co-ferment that matches Cali ripeness with surprising verve and delicacy CSPC +761131 $28

Ridge 2013 Geyserville (Santa Cruz Mountains)This will change your expectations of zinfandel A zin-heavy field blend it combines the best of its mountain altitude and the California sun CSPC +426379 $55

just south of San Jose the wineries of the Santa Cruz Mountains prove again that those seeking to make modern moderate wines in California head both west and up The highest vineyards in Santa Cruz despite being just miles from the ocean are at 2600 feet this significant altitude and the cool Pacific climate results in chiseled wines with controlled ripeness and serious staying power

The region is both expansive and miniscule with only 1500 of its 480000 acres currently planted to grapes and its very-California plantings (cabernet chardonnay pinot noir zinfandel and merlot) all take on an Old World character and rusticity from its rugged terrain and stony mineral-laden soils Despite the challenges associated with growing grapes on a cool rock face Santa Cruz is a state leader in sustainable growing practices

The friendly sunny face of California wine is surely here to stay but Santa Cruz Santa Ynez and the Sonoma Coast are permanent proof that the state is readily capable of more than one expression With its range of climate and terrain California can comfortably both provide continuity and defy stereotype

22

En GardeA Beginnerrsquos Guide To Knives And Their Usesby ANNA BROOKS

Itrsquos difficult to imagine that sharp little number thatrsquos slicing away to the rhythm of your favourite cooking music (or to the beating of child-size fists hungry for dinner) was more often used for combat not chopping carrots

Despite King Louis XIVrsquos decree that the tips of knives be ground down to reduce violence in the mid-1600s kitchen knives still (for quite pointed reasons) make popular murder weapons

But we wonrsquot get into grisly stories of guts and gore here Whether yoursquore a chef extraordinaire or the person whose knife knowledge goes as far as cutting

vegetables with a steak knife there are some things everyone should know about knives

The first major thing we must insist upon is putting down that expensive 14-piece knife set As most knife experts can attest to three main knives can cover almost all the work that a layman cook needs to do in the kitchen

23

Three main knives can cover almost all the work that a layman cook needs

to do in the kitchen

Chefrsquos Knife Your standard knife for mincing and slicing vegetables and meat a chefrsquos knife is typically 20-25 cm long but can range all the way up to 36 cm

Luke Pickett from Knifewear is a sight to see wielding some wickedly sharp

handcrafted Japanese models but despite their carnivorous look Pickett said therersquos really nothing to fear

ldquoThere are a lot of people who are scared of really large knivesrdquo Pickett said ldquoBut having good quality kitchen equipment will make your life easierrdquo

For beginners a standard 20 cm chefrsquos knife (although Pickett said blade length is purely based on personal preference) is best to start with but a Japanese Santoku knife mdash an elegant slightly smaller version of a chefrsquos knife mdash will certainly get the job er meal done

Paring KnifeOn the other side of the knife spectrum is the pocket-sized paring knife (note carrying knives in pockets not recommended)

Regan Johnson assistant manager at The Cookbook Co said besides what the individual using a steak knife to cut everything might think the small intricate work required of a paring knife (such as peeling and trimming) should not be done on a cutting board

ldquoParing is anything you can be doing in the air mdash yoursquore not ever supposed to use a paring knife on a boardrdquo she explained

Johnson added that for someone like herself who does almost as much blade-wielding as a samurai she also recommends a utility knife

which is a hybrid of a chefrsquos knife and a paring knife

ldquoI reach for my utility knife a lotrdquo she said ldquoItrsquos got that shape of a paring knife but is longer Itrsquos just for those things in between that you donrsquot need your giant chefrsquos knife forrdquo

Bread KnifeThe last of the big three is of course a bread knife Have you ever tried to cut a loaf of bread with a straight blade Not so easy (or safe) a task

Itrsquos sometimes difficult to do but no matter the type of knife yoursquore using itrsquos important to try and slice as opposed to chopping or sawing It

is quite tempting (and often seems easier) to saw away at the crispy crust of a floured loaf of sourdough but Knifewearrsquos Pickett said sawing can

be a slippery slope to your bread knifersquos grave

ldquoIf you slice you can use the entire blade and itrsquos a lot sharper along the edgerdquo he explained ldquoItrsquos important to get a good bread knife because you canrsquot sharpen them like you can any other sort of kniferdquo

The Big Three

24

Having good quality kitchen equipment will

make your life easier

Anna Brooks is an award-winning journalist from Calgary Alberta She has worked internationally in Thailand and Africa and has been published in Metro BeatRoute Magazine and the Calgary Journal She also enjoys animal rights fantasy fiction and whiskey sours

Tips and TricksOf course you can adorn your kitchen with the countless others belonging to the knife family mdash cleavers carvers boning knives cheese knives etc mdash but if yoursquore not planning on hacking through solid bone anytime soon you probably donrsquot need to spend $200 on a meat cleaver

But there are some other knife-related implements that are important to have in your kitchen

First off a proper cutting board While plastic cutting boards are versatile and can be chucked in the dishwasher wood is really the best way to go Cutting boards are the quickest way to ruin a knife so steer clear of fancy-looking glass or granite boards mdash they are the antagonists of our story

Itrsquos also not a bad idea to have a knife honer on hand As a reminder (or for

those who had no idea what that random rod in the kitchen was used for) honers are for honing not sharpening

ldquoWith use the metal fibres in a knife edge can get bent to one side or another All yoursquore doing with honing is straightening those fibres back outrdquo Johnson from The Cookbook Co explained ldquoSharpening means yoursquore actually removing material and grinding the metal down to a finer edgerdquo

Johnson added that while you can sharpen at home she always recommends getting your knives sharpened professionally at least once a year depending on how much theyare used

Before you go back to making your lazy-day grilled cheese sandwich or that complex stew yoursquove spent hours on we just want to remind you of whatrsquos called ldquothe pinch griprdquo

Not to sound snobbish but grabbing a knife by the handle and hacking away is poor form Use your thumb and index finger to grasp the blade and then wrap your remaining fingers under the bolster of the knife Shape your other hand into a claw to protect your fingertips from accidentally getting lopped off firmly grasp the object to be cut and slice away

If this knowledge was present in the 17th century perhaps old King Louis XIV would be tipping his crown to more cooks not kitchen knife combatants

25

Times Are A Changing Unexpected Take-Outs

by LINDA GARSON and DIANA NG photography by INGRID KUENZEL

Therersquos no denying that many of our cityrsquos restaurants are feeling the effects of the current economic downturn fewer people working downtown ndash indeed fewer people working altogether and so looking to save money by eating out less means many bricks and mortar restaurants are having to get creative with ways to fully utilise their kitchens and staff

High rents exacerbate the situation so itrsquos time for Calgary restaurateurs to think outside the box and proving to be the innovative entrepreneurs that wersquore known for many are diversifying their offerings to include take-out options both raw and cooked

Catch amp The Oyster Bar launched their ldquoBuy Catchrdquo program where you can pick up fresh Ocean Wise seafood to take home and cook (complete with recipes) along with house-made clam chowder and sauces nearly two years ago There are big savings to be had over dining in with no costs for linen or staff and no expectation to tip

Here are four Calgary eateries also getting clever with take-out

programs that are not widely publicised - and may

open a few eyes

26

Centini Restaurant

Itrsquos not a cookie cutter program but the magic of Centinirsquos take-out is that you can ask the kitchen for ideas of what you should have for dinner People even text the servers for suggestions and to order Loyal customers mostly busy businessmen were asking if they catered but without the staff for such a service Centini started offering to prepare dishes for them to cook themselves

Now you can get your favourite restaurant dishes from rack of lamb with red wine demi-glace AAA Alberta beef tenderloin with Gorgonzola pan sauce and sea bass with ginger cream sauce ready to cook at home ldquoWersquore not going to open a bricks and mortar restaurant down south but our food is going thererdquo says Chevonne Centini Theyrsquore seeing pick-ups such as for people stuck at home with a new baby and even 40 people for a funeral

Boxwood

Itrsquos hard to believe that the quality of food coming from the sister restaurant to River Cafe can be had at home and we are not talking about leftovers When

People take home uncooked homemade pasta with sauce separately and even bread dough and often freeze it to cook later or pick up on a Friday evening so everything is prepared ready for Saturday dinner When buying from a restaurant yoursquore getting top quality perfectly trimmed meat everything is done for you - therersquos no shopping

around and even the parsley is chopped And as everything is custom-made all allergies are catered for too

Centini gets fish delivered once or twice every day and it may come as a surprise but with a chef garde manger that spent 15 years in Japan they have customers coming just to take out sushi

you go home to an empty fridge it feels like the only options you have are fast food or pizza Not so

Boxwoodrsquos fresh and seasonal fare is also available to take home While you wonrsquot

be able to enjoy the quaint atmosphere of the restaurant you can order anything on the menu for take out with its special offering being the whole rotisserie free-range chicken which serves two to four people for $40

Many bricks and mortar restaurants are

having to get creative with ways to fully utilise their

kitchens and staff

You will need to call a few hours ahead (the website states before 200 pm) for enough notice for the chicken but for the rest of the selection like its soups and sandwiches you can simply look up the menu online and call to place an order For a perfect night in may we suggest starting with its bison tartare then moving onto the porchetta and another main before finishing off the meal with a slice of pie

27

Gaucho

For most people the elaborate setup of Brazilian barbecue is one of its biggest attractions You may not know this and while you may not be able to take home the lively decor of Gaucho you can actually take the meal home

The spit packed tightly with freshly roasted meats the sign at the table that signals yoursquore ready for more and the roasted and caramelized pineapple that tops off the meal all contribute to the atmosphere but if all you want are the meats and sides for a hefty dinner you can certainly order the meal as a take-out

Order any of the four options (top sirloin pork loin chicken wings or mild sausage) and add three sides from the list of eight which includes a variety of salads black bean stew and rice And because you canrsquot just have one kind of meat when it comes to Brazilian barbecue you can choose additional

Safari Grill

The marinated thinly sliced BBQ short beef ribs at Safari Grill are already a must-have for those in the know but we suspect even regulars will be surprised to discover that you can pick

up uncooked ribs with your choice of seven marinades to take home and BBQ yourself

With none of the associated costs of dining in $65 buys you enough ribs for 10 people and customers actually drive

meats for $4 each Finally choose the sauce yoursquod like to accompany your meal Orders for over five people will come in a big white box and individual

orders come will in regular take-out containers For big parties do call a few hours ahead All you need to make at home is the caipirinha

from Saskatchewan to take away 10-15 lb bags of these uncooked marinated ribs Some people call and ask for them to be marinated and frozen in 5 lb bags to enjoy later as just 5-7 minutes each side on a high flame has the raw ribs ready to eat

And itrsquos not only ribs that people BBQ at home Mishkaki are skewers of marinated chicken beef and prawns and for as little as $3 each you can have a very inexpensive BBQ feast Marinated raw lamb chops are also available or ask for Samaki - a marinated whole tilapia that comes with a basting sauce to brush on You can even get uncooked samosas to cook in your oven at home

All Safari Grillrsquos regular menu can be ordered for take-out but there is no published price list for uncooked dishes so people call to order and ask - but when yoursquore picking up look out for the new jars of house-made mango and lemon pickles

28

Step By Step Go Nuts With Homemade Nutella And Waffles story and photography by NATALIE FINDLAY

There are many nutritional benefits packed into these small filberts They are rich in dietary fibre packed with folate an excellent source of vitamin E and contain mono-unsaturated fatty acids that

can help lower bad cholesterol and raise good cholesterol By making your own Nutella at home you can control the amount of sugar that is added making this delicious spread basicallyhellip a health food

Hazelnuts have a tried and true following for taking the lead role in the chocolate spread Nutella This long-standing love affair has lasted simply because they add a distinct but subtle flavour to the chocolate Truly a match that is better together than apart

These delicious and super-easy waffles make a great base for your homemade Nutella With the addition of ground hazelnuts to the batter you can deepen the hazelnut flavour and pack in more health benefits

Waffles with raspberries and white chocolate spread

29

Natalie is a freelance writer photographer and pastry chef A graduate of Cordon Bleursquos pastry program she manages her own business too to create custom-made cakes

Using the same waffle recipe from above and switching out the mashed banana and adding frac12 a medium orange ndash juice and zest ndash to the batter you have a delicious orange waffle that will highlight the white chocolate hazelnut spread recipe below

Homemade White Chocolate Hazelnut Spread Makes 1frac12 cups

1frac12 cups (200 g) whole hazelnutsfrac12 cup (70 g) icing sugar2 Tbs (30 mL) canola oil1 tsp (5 mL) vanilla extract1 cup (250g) white chocolate

Follow directions for Homemade Nutella and add the melted white chocolate at the end Pulse to combine

Macerated Raspberries with Orange Serves 6

250 g fresh raspberriesfrac12 medium orange zest and juice1 Tbs icing sugarfrac12 tsp vanilla extract

Add all ingredients into a medium bowl and stir to combine Let sit for about 1 hour

Serve your warm waffles topped with your white chocolate homemade hazelnut spread macerated berries and a dollop of whipped cream or ice cream

Note Homemade Nutella has more texture than store bought and will last around 1 month in the fridge Waffles can be made ahead and frozen Thaw and reheat in the waffle maker or the oven

Banana Fruit compoteMakes enough for 6

3 ripe bananas peeled sliced into rounds2 Tbs (30 g) butter2 Tbs (30 g) brown sugar1frac12 tsp (8 mL) vanilla extract1frac12 tsp (8 mL) bourbon

1 Add butter and sugar to a sauteacute pan over medium heat As they melt stir to combine

2 Add vanilla and bourbon than add sliced bananas and sauteacute until warmed through

Serve your warm waffles topped with your homemade hazelnut spread sauteacuteed bananas and a dollop of whipped cream or ice cream

Homemade Nutella Makes 1frac12 cups

1frac12 cups (200 g) whole hazelnutsfrac34 cup (100g) icing sugar3 Tbs (45 mL) canola oilfrac14 cup (30 g) cocoa powder1 tsp (5 mL) vanilla extract

1 Toast hazelnuts on a baking pan in a preheated 350ordm F oven for 10 - 15 minutes Keep an eye on them to make sure they donrsquot start to burn Remove from oven and let cool to the touch

2 Wrap the nuts in a kitchen towel and rub together to remove the skins This should remove most of the skins

3 Place skinless hazelnuts in a food processor on high Process the nuts until they form a smooth paste and the oils start to separate (about 5 minutes) scraping the bowl often

4 Add the icing sugar cocoa powder vanilla and canola oil to the food processor and process until fully incorporated scraping bowl of processor as needed (about 2 minutes)

Hazelnut Banana WafflesMakes 6

frac12 cup (80 g) all purpose flour1 tsp baking powderfrac12 tsp baking sodaPinch sea salt1 Tbs (15 g) icing sugar1 Tbs (10 g) ground hazelnuts6 grates whole nutmeg1 tsp ground cinnamonfrac12 cup (125 mL) buttermilk1 egg yolk2 Tbs (30 g) butter meltedfrac12 small banana peeled and mashed1 egg white

1 Sift together all dry ingredients (except the ground hazelnuts) in a medium bowl Add the ground hazelnuts and combine

2 Mash the half banana in a small bowl with a fork Add the egg buttermilk and melted butter

3 Whisk the egg white to stiff peaks

4 Whisk the wet ingredients into the dry and fold the egg white into the mixture

5 Follow the directions for your waffle pan to cook waffles for around 5 minutes or until cooked through

Note Remember to bring the waffle pan up to temperature in between each batch of waffles

Hazelnut Banana Waffles with Nutella

30

Citrus Beer Friendsby DAVID NUTTALL

This is when the taste andor aroma of a beer can remind the drinker of anything from an orange drink or lemonade to grapefruit soda There are several ways to achieve this character and these beers are becoming more and more popular every day

Hops provide the bitterness in beer and out of the literally hundreds of varieties a few impart citrus notes into the aroma and flavour Cascade and Citra are examples of two of the most popular hops used in several styles of beer most notably the American IPA or India Pale Ale Cascade hops have been around for over 40 years and it is the single most popular hop used by the American craft brewing industry It provides a floralspicy character often reminiscent of grapefruit

Citrarsquos name leaves no guessing as to its attributes A relative newcomer this cross breed of UK German and US hop varieties has been around for less than a decade but it is already an extremely popular hop for imparting

One of the great things about beer is its diversity It can come in a myriad of colours and also a wide variety of flavours citrus being one of the most distinct

Dave Nuttall has been in the liquor and event business forever He is a qualified beer judge and ownerpresident of Epicurean Calgary at epicureancalgarycom for ten years

citrus and tropical fruit characteristics to a beer

It has proven very versatile and appears in several beer styles from session ales to IPAs It has also become a favourite hop to use for dry-hopping (adding hops late into the boil) due to the exceptional aromas it produces For even more flavour and aroma craft brewers now commonly enhance these already citrusy IPAs with actual zest peel or juice from citrus fruits to create an IPAFruit Beer hybrid which sells especially well in summer months

Then there is the yeast and many varieties of yeast can produce citrusy esters The unfiltered hefeweizens brewed on both sides of the Atlantic quite often have a lemony flavour Sour beers also showcase the yeast often cultured from Belgian strains

These beers are tart and produce a gamut of flavours many with citrus qualities and some have added fruit - the easiest and most obvious way to create a citrusy beer The Belgians also add different kinds of oranges with spice additions to their wheat ales to create wit beers now emulated all over the world with different citrus (and other) fruits involved in the recipe We also canrsquot forget the radlers which are simply a lager beer mixed with 40-60 fruit juice - often grapefruit or lemonade

Whether itrsquos added fruit the yeast the hops or a combination of all of them citrusy beers are commonplace now Thanks to new hops like Citra and the increasing popularity of wits and sours we can expect this trend to continue

Here are a few local beers with hints of citrus All are also available on tap

Beer comes in a myriad of colours and flavours citrus being one of the

most distinct

Ribstone Creek Great White CombineThis tiny Edgerton Alberta brewery has been knocking it out of the park lately Named after the ubiquitous Alberta summer hailstorm the use of Belgian yeast sweet orange peel and coriander give this beer an orange flavour in the beginning When the four different hop additions kick in it changes more to a sweet lemony flavour This White IPA has a very tropical feel that makes you forget it was made in northern Alberta CSPC +774162 $16 6-pack cans

Wild Rose Cowbell Sour ales are the new Belle of the Ball at craft breweries Often using imported Belgian yeast strains they are tart tangy and wellhellip sour Calgaryrsquos Wild Rose has taken this flavour profile and added kaffir lime leaves This makes the beer more like a refreshing limeade and is less bitter than many of its other sour counterparts CSPC +778093 $17 6-pack bottles

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Citradelic Single Hop IPA Big Rock BreweryWith breweries in two (soon to be three) provinces Big Rock now has multiple locations to develop new beers This is the first one from their Vancouver brewery and is full of lemongrapefruit flavours and tropical aromas This beer showcases the Citra hop fooling one to think that citrus has been added when itrsquos all thanks to the hop CSPC +778593 $15 6-pack bottles

Alley Kat Main SqueezeWhat started out as a summer seasonal has now become a mainstay of this Edmonton brewery A North American style wheat ale with a 50 wheat and 50 barley mix it has added grapefruit juice but tastes more along the lines of pink grapefruit rather than its more bitter cousin CSPC +733630 $17 6-pack bottles

32

story by RENEE KOHLMAN

Cheesecake is one of those classic desserts that almost everyone loves unless of course you have a dairy allergy then yoursquoll stay far far away from it While it may seem too complicated to make at home I assure you that itrsquos not

Spice it up cheesecake

Sure there are a few steps involved but the key thing to remember is to have your eggs and cream cheese at room temperature For the best crack-free cheesecake itrsquos best to bake it in a water bath It yields a light creamy texture and is well worth the effort Cheesecake always tastes better the next day so bake it the day before you want to serve it Now that wersquove got the basics down itrsquos time to have a little fun with the crust filling and toppings

The Base

The classic graham cracker crust is fine but every now and again itrsquos great to switch things up Try

ndash Grinding up ginger cookies They work especially well for a pumpkin cheesecake

ndash Chocolate cookie crumbs are fantastic for caramel peanut butter and raspberry cheesecakes

ndash Add finely chopped nuts oats or seeds to the cookie crumbs for added texture and taste

The Middle

Therersquos something to be said for a straight up vanilla or chocolate cheesecake but with some fun add-ins they could take your cheesecake to the next level of deliciousness Try

ndash Swirling tahini dulce de leche salted caramel or chocolate fudge sauce into a creamy vanilla filling

ndash Mix in chopped chocolate peanut butter cups to a chocolate filling

ndash Drop fresh berries (raspberries blueberries blackberries) on top of a vanilla filling

ndash Stir in chopped candied ginger dried cherries or cranberries chopped toasted nuts to the filling

ndash Swap some of the cream cheese with ricotta mascarpone cheese or even strained cottage cheese

ndash You can never go wrong with lemon zest in a vanilla cheesecake

Have a little fun with the crust filling

and toppings

33

Apple Crumble CheesecakeMakes about 12-14 servings Total cook and prep time 3 hours (plus overnight chilling)

I love apple crisp and I love cheesecake This recipe is a fine marriage of both and makes a more than acceptable breakfast The base is a crumble of oats and flour the middle is classic cheesecake and itrsquos topped with cinnamon apples and a buttery oat streusel

Crust 2 cups large flake oats1 cup all purpose flour cup packed brown sugarfrac34 cup butter meltedfrac12 tsp salt

Cheesecake Layer3 - 225 g packages cream cheese at room temperature cup granulated sugar1 tsp (5 mL) vanilla3 large eggs at room temperature cup (80 mL) whipping cream

Apple Layer2 apples peeled cored and sliced about 3-4 mm thick1 tsp ground cinnamonfrac12 tsp salt

Streusel Layer1 cup large flake oatsfrac12 cup all-purpose flourfrac12 cup brown sugarfrac12 cup butter softened1 tsp ground cinnamon

Preheat the oven to 375ordm F

1 Butter the bottom and sides of a 9-inch springform pan with sides that are at least 7 cm high Wrap the bottom of the pan in aluminum foil so it comes at least halfway up the sides

2 Combine the crust ingredients in a large bowl Press the crust evenly into the pan and place on a baking sheet Bake for 10 minutes Remove from oven and let it cool on a wire rack

3 Reduce heat to 325ordm F Put a kettle of water on to boil Have a large roasting pan close by

4 Using a stand mixer with a paddle attachment beat the cream cheese at medium speed for 4 minutes scraping down the sides once or twice until it is soft and creamy With the mixer still running add the sugar and beat for another 4 minutes scraping down the sides of the bowl at least twice Beat in the vanilla Add the eggs one at a time beating for 1 minute after each addition and scraping the bowl Reduce speed to low and add the whipping cream

5 Toss the sliced apples with the cinnamon and salt in a small bowl Combine all of the streusel ingredients in a medium bowl and mix well

6 Place the springform pan in the roasting pan Give the cheesecake batter a good stir and pour it on top of the crust Arrange the apples on top and sprinkle the streusel on top of the apples

7 Place in the oven on the middle rack and pour the hot water into the roasting pan so it comes halfway up the sides of the springform pan

8 Bake the cheesecake for 1frac12 hours Turn off the heat prop open the oven door and let the cheesecake hang inside for another hour

9 Carefully remove from the oven and take out the cheesecake from the hot water bath Remove the foil and let the cheesecake come to room temperature on a wire rack Cover the top lightly and refrigerate for at least 4 hours but overnight is best The next day remove the sides of the pan and serve the cake

Renee is a food writer and pastry chef living in beautiful Saskatoon Saskatchewan Her columns appear in The Saskatoon StarPhoenix and her desserts can be enjoyed at Riverside Country Club Also check out her blog wwwsweetsugarbeancom

The Toppings

Cheesecake with no fun toppings is like a salad with no dressing it just doesnrsquot reach its full flavour potential Try

ndash Salted caramel roasted strawberry sauce or warm chocolate sauce

ndash A rhubarbcardamom compote is divine on top of vanilla cheesecake kissed with a bit of lemon zest Cherry compote is divine with chocolate cheesecake

ndash Have a favourite jam Melt it down with a tiny bit of water and drizzle it on top of your favourite cheesecake

ndash Candied nuts and citrus rind chocolate shavings even crumbled cookies are a fun way to add texture to the cheesecake

ndash Never underestimate the power of fresh seasonal berries and a well-made cheesecakeMacerate them in a little sugar and minced mint or basil and they make a lovely topping Donrsquot forget the whipped cream

34

Think about that for a moment and let that sink in like a cherry in your drink

So how old is ice in bars Well thatrsquos a whole story on its own however the Old Fashioned has been talked about in one form or another since the beginning of the 19th Century The first appearance of this classic cocktail was in the Balance and Columbian Repository newspaper in 1806 as such ldquoA stimulating liquor composed of spirits of any kind sugar water and bittersrdquo

The Old FashionedAn Iconic Drink That Has Stood The Test Of Time

by BRICE PERESSINI

Sohelliphow old is the Old Fashioned The Old Fashioned is as old as ice in bars

When you follow these instructions and put this finely-crafted cocktail into your hand swirl around the ice gaze through the caramel-coloured liquid in the glass and contemplate all that has gone into it you can rest assured you are holding a drink that has delighted taste buds for generations The Old Fashioned however has not always been held in high regard There was a time not too long ago where this fine concoction was an unbalanced fruity watered-down pale imitation of itself More recently

there has been a renaissance involved with this invigorating intoxicant and you can and should expect a proper cocktail when it is ordered at a fine establishment

When this drink is properly prepared it should be in perfect balance (as any proper drink should be) The sweetness of the sugar should not cover the flavour of the bourbon and the bitters should add to not overpower the flavour of the whiskey When the Old Fashioned is well made it is as close to cocktail perfection as a sophisticated patron could expect

Befriend a bespoke barkeep at an upstanding establishment and you will be in trusted hands If you find yourself at home and wanting for a nightcap look no further than the Old Fashioned

Enjoy friends

Old Fashioned Recipe

2 oz Buffalo Trace Bourbon (or your personal favourite)4 dashes Angostura Aromatic Bitters1 raw sugar cube

Muddle the sugar and bitters together with a touch of warm water in a rocks glass Add the bourbon then add ice Stir and garnish with an orange peel and cherry (optional)

Brice is a competition cocktail bartender who plies his trade behind the wood at Chefbar Whisk(e)y is his poison Neat

35

Shoulder Season Wines

by JACLYN ADOMEIT

Wines For Cool Weather

Refreshing white wines match with sunny patios and hot days while bold tannic red wines earn their keep by a fireplace on a winter night Common sense But what about the shoulder season What if yoursquore eating sea bass on a rainy spring day Or sipping wine on a patio during an uncommonly warm April afternoon

Photograph courtesy Tom Firth

36

Wine not only pairs with food but with temperatures and seasons A bright sauvignon blanc can taste flat and acidic on a cold night at no fault of the wine or the drinker Some white wines are other-worldly at the vineyard tasting room in the summer but fall flat when you pull them out for dinner guests in the winter

The change in taste is likely due to a number of factors Anatomically it is your sinus cavities creating the change Higher atmospheric pressures allow your nose to pick out subtle aromas while lower pressures bring out a winersquos acidity and harsh tannins CO2 degasses from liquid at low pressure leaving wines dull and flat too

Serving temperature can greatly affect a winersquos aromatics white wines chilled to near-freezing have dull aromas (Tip allow the bottle a half hour on the counter before popping the cork This will allow the aromatics to warm up enhancing the flavour)

Lastly your own palate will be partial to different flavours depending on sun snow wind and sleet but as a rule of thumb higher alcohol white wines (approximately 13 percent or more) will warm the soul and pair best with cooler weather

Here are some wine selections to go for when it is not too hot and not too cold so you can choose a pairing thatrsquos just right

Fiano

Yoursquoll notice that many of the best white wines for cold weather are grown in hot places Hot climates mean a longer growing season more sugar which leads to higher alcohol and often more robust and tropical flavours All of this is true for fiano - seldom grown outside of Campania in southern Italy Fiano produces age-worthy wines which are rich nutty and delicious

Feudi Di San Gregorio 2014 Campania Fiano di Avellino Italy A beautiful floral bouquet with candied lemon followed by honey-coated hazelnuts on the palate Worth cellaring for a few seasons The perfect dance partner for poultry CSPC +708589 $33

Viognier

Viognier is a white varietal that is best consumed at slightly higher temperatures A chilly glass of viognier will leave you with acid maybe oak and not much else Allow it to warm and you may experience peach pear and toasted almond

Traditionally grown in the warm south of France viognier is often a higher alcohol white wine with rich tropical flavours The heat of the alcohol with tropical flavours and lower acid makes viognier the perfect wine to sip while watching a late spring snowfall

Paul Mas 2014 Languedoc-Roussillon Viognier France Brimming with apricot almond lemon and ripe peach Contains hints of warming oak Pair with something savoury baked brie or spinach-filled puff pastry CSPC + 740978 $17

Dry Roseacute

There is so much more to be had from roseacute than white zinfandel And no itrsquos not just a mix of red and white wine The best roseacute is made from red skinned grapes that only sit on their skins for up to a day and a half to borrow colour and flavour then are fermented and processed

Refined examples of roseacute wines are often dry and have deep aromas of red fruits mild tannins and are savoury instead of sweet The French and Spanish craft great examples of dry roseacutes that are either a single varietal or a blend of grapes such as mourvegravedre grenache syrah or tempranillo

Muga Roseacute 2014 Rioja Grenache Viura and Tempranillo Spain A tamed Rioja Orange blossom woven together with strawberry and a palate of cherry and savoury soft cheese Ideal for charcuterie CSPC + 710261 $16

Orange Wine

Never heard of orange wine A commercial demand for natural wines has fostered a resurgence in ancient wine making practices While roseacute wines are reds that have been produced using white wine making practices orange wines are created from white grapes submitted to maceration and allowed to sit on the skins before fermentation the same practice employed in red winemaking

Unlike any white you have tasted orange wines are full-bodied have mild tannins and deep flavours - the characteristics that allow red wines to bring warmth to cool nights A must try for any wine buff

Allow the bottle a half hour on the counter

before popping the cork

The Bicicleta wines are characterized by their fruity expression and for offering more than

the traditional strains a clear example of this range`s innovation style and creativity

Cono Sur Vineyards amp Winery ConoSurVineyards ConoSurWinesconosurcom

The brewhouse at Wild Rose

Jaclynrsquos first passion was winemaking Shersquos worked in vineyards cellars and restaurants Currently she is a writer who daylights as an environmental engineer She believes that a good life like a good wine is not complete without balance

Nichol 2013 Naramata Pinot Gris Canada A Canadian example of orange wine with backbone Flavours of caramel apple roast nuts orange rind and peach CSPC +504159 $31

Oaked chardonnay

In and out with popular palates oak and chardonnay have been partners for a long time Oak paired with chardonnay can bring out butter richness toasted vanilla tree fruit and in the best examples shimmering minerality That is because oak aging is often accompanied by a malolactic fermentation process that smooths out rigid acids into lactic acid - the acid found in milk

Chardonnay is a grape of many talents and encounters a great diversity of production styles It is oaked examples that pair best with pensive rainy days They are full-bodied warming and complex

Wente Morning Fog 2014 Livermore Valley (California) Chardonnay USA Half oak-aged and malolactic-fermented half crisp and fresh this chardonnay brings together green apple vanilla and toasted oak A friend to cream sauce and roast chicken CSPC +175430 $18

In a province of mutable weather let your wine choices be as varied as the ever changing winds Cheers and herersquos to refined full-bodied cool-weather wines

38

Once yoursquore done with your magazine cover shoot like we did this month or prepping for dinner and have all of those odds and ends just sitting on the cutting board - you know carrot ends onion skins tips of celery stalks you get the point - donrsquot toss lsquoem

Instead place them into a large ziploc bag and straight into the freezer After a couple of weeks yoursquoll likely have four full freezer bags of vegetable bits ready to be turned into broth and herersquos how you do it

Making a big batch of vegetable broth doesnrsquot always mean a trip to the grocery store All you need to do is save those scraps This is a handy trick I learned years ago courtesy of Bon Appetit

No-Waste Vegetable Broth

by DAN CLAPSON

Odds And Ends BrothYields 8 cups (2 L)

12 cups (3 L) water4 full ziploc bags of vegetable trimmings1 yellow onion quartered4 cloves garlicAromatics of choice (I usually toss a couple of rosemary and thyme sprigs in there)To taste Salt and pepper

1 Place all ingredients in a large pot and bring to a boil on medium-high heat

2 Reduce to medium heat and let simmer uncovered for 1frac12 hours

3 Strain season to taste with salt and pepper and use as desired

Full circlePizza amp Oyster Bar

933 17 Ave SW bull fullcirclepizzaca

buck-a-shuck oysters

$1 oysters every night

9 pm - close Sunday-thursday 11 pm - close friday amp saturday

40

Salentein 2012 Reserve Chardonnay Uco Valley Argentina

Very very enjoyable chardonnay blowing me away with complexity varietal character and fine balance between oak lees and fruit Toffee baked apple tangerine and a little almond on the nose lead into silkily textured wine in the mouth Top shelf chardonnay that might be great with lobster tails mussels or poultry Around $20 CSPC +779479

Rutini 2013 Cabernet Malbec Mendoza Argentina

An exceptionally well put together blend - if you want rich berry fruits lots of body but maybe not tons of varietal characters from the individual components Lifted and bright fruits make for a very enjoyable glass Simply perfect for your next barbecue a roast or just chilling out with friends and family $26-30 CSPC +776822

Vinecol 2014 Organic Malbec Mendoza Argentina Fair Trade organic and vegan along with a good price is it still good Piles of fresh fruits (think smashed raspberries) with plenty of spice and soft herb-leaf aromas There are plenty of malbec flavours on the palate too Good for any day of the week with just a little tension between fruit tannin and acid it might be best with pub style burgers pulled pork or sausages About $16 CSPC +755296

Argentina is so much more than malbec While such a noble grape has found its best home in the high altitude vineyards of Argentina there is a lot going on with other grapes as well

Making The Case For Argentina

by TOM FIRTH

This massive country nestled up against the Andes mountains has a range of growing conditions suited to a number of grapes From Salta in the north to Patagonia in the south plenty of interesting wines are available here - many reasonably priced and of excellent quality So yes there are some

malbecs on these pages but please do try some of the other grapes and blends coming from Argentina too

Be sure to crack open a bottle of malbec on ldquoWorld Malbec Dayrdquo April 17 - who knows it might be nice enough to barbecue too

Photograph courtesy Tom Firth

41

Manos Negras 2011 Stone Soil Select Mendoza Argentina Quite new to the market this is a pretty enjoyable version of Argentinarsquos flagship grape Loads of blue fruit and raspberries with spices galore and a little compost Rich flavours lead to a lengthy spicy finish Yes please Bring to a barbecue if you can $21 CSPC +630541

Zuccardi 2012 Zeta Mendoza Argentina

A malbec-cabernet sauvignon blend that is also a blend of two different Mendoza appellations La Consulta and Gualtallary Deep and abundant fruit aromas with liquorice root and a touch of blueberry preserves Excellent balance of flavours on the palate too with the right structure and tannin for aging if desired Enjoy with a prime rib or even meaty pasta dishes or game $50-52 CSPC +740270

Zuccardi 2012 ldquoEmmardquo Bonarda Mendoza Argentina

In my humble opinion one of the finest bonardas coming out of Argentina Notes of coffee bean and espresso complement cherry and blackberry fruits with healthy balanced tannins to stand up to the tart fruits Delicious for sure enjoy at your next barbecue $40 CSPC +758407

Luigi Bosca 2011 Cabernet-Malbec Mendoza Argentina

A wonderfully earthy and savoury blend with plenty of tobacco spice leather and yes lots of fruit too The earthy flavours work well with the big dark chocolate flavours and weighty tannins Drink now or through 2020 or so - with a steak naturally $22-24 CSPC +766010

Trivento 2013 Golden Reserve Malbec Lujan de Cuyo Argentina While there is a trend to see a lot of premium malbecs move away from oak presence this one is a bold smooth and delicious example that is seeing about a year of oak All those berry fruits plums and herb notes malbec is known for along with the smoothness that only oak brings Kick back relax maybe cook up some steaks - enjoy About $24 CSPC +711402

Trivento 2014 Malbec Reserve Mendoza Argentina Nearly unbeatable for good malbec at a great price itrsquos rich and chocolatey on the nose with big fruits and oak tones too Mild garrigue notes or dried herb flavours with plenty of fruit and tannins - still showing a fine sense of balance Enjoy with beef $14 CSPC +730714

Luigi Bosca 2011 De Sangre Mendoza Argentina A blend of cabernet sauvignon merlot and syrah that manages to pull out the best of each varietal Earthy and slightly smoky with good fruits and plenty of versatility Tannins are well-placed against the fruits with a long smooth finish Irsquove been a fan of this wine year after year Good to keep a couple on hand in the cellar About $29 CSPC +745106

Salentein 2012 Numina Gran Corte Uco Valley Argentina A malbec-dominated Bordeaux blend this stunner is all about ripe fruits cedar pepper cherries and plum with a little tealeaf and the right amount of tannins Very very well balanced and like any great wine think about some food to go with it Beef tenderloin slow cooked meats or maybe at your next asadohellip About $40 CSPC +764706

Colonia Las Liebres 2013 Bonarda Mendoza Argentina Bear with me here - a fine bonarda with plenty of earthy smoky aromas leading to rubber charred cherries and cocoa Some pretty prominent tannins to be found as well but wow does it all come together A wine that just begs for duck with cranberries or maybe some kebabshellip$20 CSPC +773381

42

Open That Bottleby LINDA GARSON photography by INGRID KUENZEL

ldquoIf you work in a place and yoursquore miserable I donrsquot know if there is a dollar amount that can be attached to that The work that yoursquore doing has to be rewarding and challengingrdquo says Karen KhoGrowing up in Niagara Falls in a Philippino SpanishChinese family Kho was surrounded by food and drinks with an open door policy that has had a huge influence on the person she is today - an

entertainer who likes to make people feel welcome ldquoMy parents wanted me to be a lawyer there was definitely an encouragement to use my voice for goodrdquo she explains ldquoAnd I still think I help people but in a different way a very social wayrdquo

Graduating Western University with a political science degree in 2000 Kho spent a year travelling and living in Australia before taking a leap of faith and moving to Calgary Here she studied wine with the International Sommeliers Guild and WSET but says her real education was a job she adored working in the wine trade at BIN 905 in tandem with running wine programs for CRMR restaurants It was only when the opportunity came to create the wine program at Vin Room six years later that Kho leapt at the challenge of a new idea for the city and spent four happy years there

Eventually she and her partner decided to stretch their wings and went to Vancouver where Kho embarked on a six-month culinary course at the Pacific Institute of Culinary Arts ticking off another box on her bucket list ldquoI wanted a greater understanding of technique in the kitchen and I wanted an understanding of what service on a very basic level would look like if I ever owned my own place and ever had to be the person who filled inrdquo she says ldquoI feel if I was ever in a place that needed someone to chop onions Irsquom your womanrdquo she laughs

A year later the pair came back with the idea of eventually opening their own business in Calgary ldquoThe support we get from this community is heartfelt and this is a city of opportunity People with the right concept are seeing a lot of great success itrsquos still our game planrdquo she says Meanwhile Kho applied only to Teatro where she is now Group Service Director

ldquoI wanted to work at a place that had a challenging wine program and had a level of service with high expectations and where professional service teams

applyrdquo she says ldquoItrsquos pretty romantic to work for a company that has been built on a foundation of service Successful businesses in the restaurant industry get the grand picture which is the moments that yoursquore creating for people and I like to be a part of thatrdquo she adds

So what bottle is Kho saving for a special occasion

Paying homage to her time at BIN 905 Kho explains ldquoI have a bottle of 1996 Chateau Mouton Rothschild which was given to me with some very kind words on my last day at BIN Irsquove always just appreciated my time there it was where I learned the vernacular of wine and itrsquos my first job where I really saw the benefits of serving people with intentionrdquo She continues ldquoI always see it thankfully as the stepping-stone to a broader wine profession and eventually to the position that I have now It was given to me by very close friends that Irsquom still friends with to this dayrdquo

And when is she planning to open the wine

ldquoWhen (partner) Dave and I open our own restaurantrdquo Kho says This isnrsquot something that something that will happen tomorrow but fortunately the wine will last until theyrsquore ready

Charcoal-grilled prime cutsHand-muddled caipirinhas50+ salad bar optionsThree distinct private rooms

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22

En GardeA Beginnerrsquos Guide To Knives And Their Usesby ANNA BROOKS

Itrsquos difficult to imagine that sharp little number thatrsquos slicing away to the rhythm of your favourite cooking music (or to the beating of child-size fists hungry for dinner) was more often used for combat not chopping carrots

Despite King Louis XIVrsquos decree that the tips of knives be ground down to reduce violence in the mid-1600s kitchen knives still (for quite pointed reasons) make popular murder weapons

But we wonrsquot get into grisly stories of guts and gore here Whether yoursquore a chef extraordinaire or the person whose knife knowledge goes as far as cutting

vegetables with a steak knife there are some things everyone should know about knives

The first major thing we must insist upon is putting down that expensive 14-piece knife set As most knife experts can attest to three main knives can cover almost all the work that a layman cook needs to do in the kitchen

23

Three main knives can cover almost all the work that a layman cook needs

to do in the kitchen

Chefrsquos Knife Your standard knife for mincing and slicing vegetables and meat a chefrsquos knife is typically 20-25 cm long but can range all the way up to 36 cm

Luke Pickett from Knifewear is a sight to see wielding some wickedly sharp

handcrafted Japanese models but despite their carnivorous look Pickett said therersquos really nothing to fear

ldquoThere are a lot of people who are scared of really large knivesrdquo Pickett said ldquoBut having good quality kitchen equipment will make your life easierrdquo

For beginners a standard 20 cm chefrsquos knife (although Pickett said blade length is purely based on personal preference) is best to start with but a Japanese Santoku knife mdash an elegant slightly smaller version of a chefrsquos knife mdash will certainly get the job er meal done

Paring KnifeOn the other side of the knife spectrum is the pocket-sized paring knife (note carrying knives in pockets not recommended)

Regan Johnson assistant manager at The Cookbook Co said besides what the individual using a steak knife to cut everything might think the small intricate work required of a paring knife (such as peeling and trimming) should not be done on a cutting board

ldquoParing is anything you can be doing in the air mdash yoursquore not ever supposed to use a paring knife on a boardrdquo she explained

Johnson added that for someone like herself who does almost as much blade-wielding as a samurai she also recommends a utility knife

which is a hybrid of a chefrsquos knife and a paring knife

ldquoI reach for my utility knife a lotrdquo she said ldquoItrsquos got that shape of a paring knife but is longer Itrsquos just for those things in between that you donrsquot need your giant chefrsquos knife forrdquo

Bread KnifeThe last of the big three is of course a bread knife Have you ever tried to cut a loaf of bread with a straight blade Not so easy (or safe) a task

Itrsquos sometimes difficult to do but no matter the type of knife yoursquore using itrsquos important to try and slice as opposed to chopping or sawing It

is quite tempting (and often seems easier) to saw away at the crispy crust of a floured loaf of sourdough but Knifewearrsquos Pickett said sawing can

be a slippery slope to your bread knifersquos grave

ldquoIf you slice you can use the entire blade and itrsquos a lot sharper along the edgerdquo he explained ldquoItrsquos important to get a good bread knife because you canrsquot sharpen them like you can any other sort of kniferdquo

The Big Three

24

Having good quality kitchen equipment will

make your life easier

Anna Brooks is an award-winning journalist from Calgary Alberta She has worked internationally in Thailand and Africa and has been published in Metro BeatRoute Magazine and the Calgary Journal She also enjoys animal rights fantasy fiction and whiskey sours

Tips and TricksOf course you can adorn your kitchen with the countless others belonging to the knife family mdash cleavers carvers boning knives cheese knives etc mdash but if yoursquore not planning on hacking through solid bone anytime soon you probably donrsquot need to spend $200 on a meat cleaver

But there are some other knife-related implements that are important to have in your kitchen

First off a proper cutting board While plastic cutting boards are versatile and can be chucked in the dishwasher wood is really the best way to go Cutting boards are the quickest way to ruin a knife so steer clear of fancy-looking glass or granite boards mdash they are the antagonists of our story

Itrsquos also not a bad idea to have a knife honer on hand As a reminder (or for

those who had no idea what that random rod in the kitchen was used for) honers are for honing not sharpening

ldquoWith use the metal fibres in a knife edge can get bent to one side or another All yoursquore doing with honing is straightening those fibres back outrdquo Johnson from The Cookbook Co explained ldquoSharpening means yoursquore actually removing material and grinding the metal down to a finer edgerdquo

Johnson added that while you can sharpen at home she always recommends getting your knives sharpened professionally at least once a year depending on how much theyare used

Before you go back to making your lazy-day grilled cheese sandwich or that complex stew yoursquove spent hours on we just want to remind you of whatrsquos called ldquothe pinch griprdquo

Not to sound snobbish but grabbing a knife by the handle and hacking away is poor form Use your thumb and index finger to grasp the blade and then wrap your remaining fingers under the bolster of the knife Shape your other hand into a claw to protect your fingertips from accidentally getting lopped off firmly grasp the object to be cut and slice away

If this knowledge was present in the 17th century perhaps old King Louis XIV would be tipping his crown to more cooks not kitchen knife combatants

25

Times Are A Changing Unexpected Take-Outs

by LINDA GARSON and DIANA NG photography by INGRID KUENZEL

Therersquos no denying that many of our cityrsquos restaurants are feeling the effects of the current economic downturn fewer people working downtown ndash indeed fewer people working altogether and so looking to save money by eating out less means many bricks and mortar restaurants are having to get creative with ways to fully utilise their kitchens and staff

High rents exacerbate the situation so itrsquos time for Calgary restaurateurs to think outside the box and proving to be the innovative entrepreneurs that wersquore known for many are diversifying their offerings to include take-out options both raw and cooked

Catch amp The Oyster Bar launched their ldquoBuy Catchrdquo program where you can pick up fresh Ocean Wise seafood to take home and cook (complete with recipes) along with house-made clam chowder and sauces nearly two years ago There are big savings to be had over dining in with no costs for linen or staff and no expectation to tip

Here are four Calgary eateries also getting clever with take-out

programs that are not widely publicised - and may

open a few eyes

26

Centini Restaurant

Itrsquos not a cookie cutter program but the magic of Centinirsquos take-out is that you can ask the kitchen for ideas of what you should have for dinner People even text the servers for suggestions and to order Loyal customers mostly busy businessmen were asking if they catered but without the staff for such a service Centini started offering to prepare dishes for them to cook themselves

Now you can get your favourite restaurant dishes from rack of lamb with red wine demi-glace AAA Alberta beef tenderloin with Gorgonzola pan sauce and sea bass with ginger cream sauce ready to cook at home ldquoWersquore not going to open a bricks and mortar restaurant down south but our food is going thererdquo says Chevonne Centini Theyrsquore seeing pick-ups such as for people stuck at home with a new baby and even 40 people for a funeral

Boxwood

Itrsquos hard to believe that the quality of food coming from the sister restaurant to River Cafe can be had at home and we are not talking about leftovers When

People take home uncooked homemade pasta with sauce separately and even bread dough and often freeze it to cook later or pick up on a Friday evening so everything is prepared ready for Saturday dinner When buying from a restaurant yoursquore getting top quality perfectly trimmed meat everything is done for you - therersquos no shopping

around and even the parsley is chopped And as everything is custom-made all allergies are catered for too

Centini gets fish delivered once or twice every day and it may come as a surprise but with a chef garde manger that spent 15 years in Japan they have customers coming just to take out sushi

you go home to an empty fridge it feels like the only options you have are fast food or pizza Not so

Boxwoodrsquos fresh and seasonal fare is also available to take home While you wonrsquot

be able to enjoy the quaint atmosphere of the restaurant you can order anything on the menu for take out with its special offering being the whole rotisserie free-range chicken which serves two to four people for $40

Many bricks and mortar restaurants are

having to get creative with ways to fully utilise their

kitchens and staff

You will need to call a few hours ahead (the website states before 200 pm) for enough notice for the chicken but for the rest of the selection like its soups and sandwiches you can simply look up the menu online and call to place an order For a perfect night in may we suggest starting with its bison tartare then moving onto the porchetta and another main before finishing off the meal with a slice of pie

27

Gaucho

For most people the elaborate setup of Brazilian barbecue is one of its biggest attractions You may not know this and while you may not be able to take home the lively decor of Gaucho you can actually take the meal home

The spit packed tightly with freshly roasted meats the sign at the table that signals yoursquore ready for more and the roasted and caramelized pineapple that tops off the meal all contribute to the atmosphere but if all you want are the meats and sides for a hefty dinner you can certainly order the meal as a take-out

Order any of the four options (top sirloin pork loin chicken wings or mild sausage) and add three sides from the list of eight which includes a variety of salads black bean stew and rice And because you canrsquot just have one kind of meat when it comes to Brazilian barbecue you can choose additional

Safari Grill

The marinated thinly sliced BBQ short beef ribs at Safari Grill are already a must-have for those in the know but we suspect even regulars will be surprised to discover that you can pick

up uncooked ribs with your choice of seven marinades to take home and BBQ yourself

With none of the associated costs of dining in $65 buys you enough ribs for 10 people and customers actually drive

meats for $4 each Finally choose the sauce yoursquod like to accompany your meal Orders for over five people will come in a big white box and individual

orders come will in regular take-out containers For big parties do call a few hours ahead All you need to make at home is the caipirinha

from Saskatchewan to take away 10-15 lb bags of these uncooked marinated ribs Some people call and ask for them to be marinated and frozen in 5 lb bags to enjoy later as just 5-7 minutes each side on a high flame has the raw ribs ready to eat

And itrsquos not only ribs that people BBQ at home Mishkaki are skewers of marinated chicken beef and prawns and for as little as $3 each you can have a very inexpensive BBQ feast Marinated raw lamb chops are also available or ask for Samaki - a marinated whole tilapia that comes with a basting sauce to brush on You can even get uncooked samosas to cook in your oven at home

All Safari Grillrsquos regular menu can be ordered for take-out but there is no published price list for uncooked dishes so people call to order and ask - but when yoursquore picking up look out for the new jars of house-made mango and lemon pickles

28

Step By Step Go Nuts With Homemade Nutella And Waffles story and photography by NATALIE FINDLAY

There are many nutritional benefits packed into these small filberts They are rich in dietary fibre packed with folate an excellent source of vitamin E and contain mono-unsaturated fatty acids that

can help lower bad cholesterol and raise good cholesterol By making your own Nutella at home you can control the amount of sugar that is added making this delicious spread basicallyhellip a health food

Hazelnuts have a tried and true following for taking the lead role in the chocolate spread Nutella This long-standing love affair has lasted simply because they add a distinct but subtle flavour to the chocolate Truly a match that is better together than apart

These delicious and super-easy waffles make a great base for your homemade Nutella With the addition of ground hazelnuts to the batter you can deepen the hazelnut flavour and pack in more health benefits

Waffles with raspberries and white chocolate spread

29

Natalie is a freelance writer photographer and pastry chef A graduate of Cordon Bleursquos pastry program she manages her own business too to create custom-made cakes

Using the same waffle recipe from above and switching out the mashed banana and adding frac12 a medium orange ndash juice and zest ndash to the batter you have a delicious orange waffle that will highlight the white chocolate hazelnut spread recipe below

Homemade White Chocolate Hazelnut Spread Makes 1frac12 cups

1frac12 cups (200 g) whole hazelnutsfrac12 cup (70 g) icing sugar2 Tbs (30 mL) canola oil1 tsp (5 mL) vanilla extract1 cup (250g) white chocolate

Follow directions for Homemade Nutella and add the melted white chocolate at the end Pulse to combine

Macerated Raspberries with Orange Serves 6

250 g fresh raspberriesfrac12 medium orange zest and juice1 Tbs icing sugarfrac12 tsp vanilla extract

Add all ingredients into a medium bowl and stir to combine Let sit for about 1 hour

Serve your warm waffles topped with your white chocolate homemade hazelnut spread macerated berries and a dollop of whipped cream or ice cream

Note Homemade Nutella has more texture than store bought and will last around 1 month in the fridge Waffles can be made ahead and frozen Thaw and reheat in the waffle maker or the oven

Banana Fruit compoteMakes enough for 6

3 ripe bananas peeled sliced into rounds2 Tbs (30 g) butter2 Tbs (30 g) brown sugar1frac12 tsp (8 mL) vanilla extract1frac12 tsp (8 mL) bourbon

1 Add butter and sugar to a sauteacute pan over medium heat As they melt stir to combine

2 Add vanilla and bourbon than add sliced bananas and sauteacute until warmed through

Serve your warm waffles topped with your homemade hazelnut spread sauteacuteed bananas and a dollop of whipped cream or ice cream

Homemade Nutella Makes 1frac12 cups

1frac12 cups (200 g) whole hazelnutsfrac34 cup (100g) icing sugar3 Tbs (45 mL) canola oilfrac14 cup (30 g) cocoa powder1 tsp (5 mL) vanilla extract

1 Toast hazelnuts on a baking pan in a preheated 350ordm F oven for 10 - 15 minutes Keep an eye on them to make sure they donrsquot start to burn Remove from oven and let cool to the touch

2 Wrap the nuts in a kitchen towel and rub together to remove the skins This should remove most of the skins

3 Place skinless hazelnuts in a food processor on high Process the nuts until they form a smooth paste and the oils start to separate (about 5 minutes) scraping the bowl often

4 Add the icing sugar cocoa powder vanilla and canola oil to the food processor and process until fully incorporated scraping bowl of processor as needed (about 2 minutes)

Hazelnut Banana WafflesMakes 6

frac12 cup (80 g) all purpose flour1 tsp baking powderfrac12 tsp baking sodaPinch sea salt1 Tbs (15 g) icing sugar1 Tbs (10 g) ground hazelnuts6 grates whole nutmeg1 tsp ground cinnamonfrac12 cup (125 mL) buttermilk1 egg yolk2 Tbs (30 g) butter meltedfrac12 small banana peeled and mashed1 egg white

1 Sift together all dry ingredients (except the ground hazelnuts) in a medium bowl Add the ground hazelnuts and combine

2 Mash the half banana in a small bowl with a fork Add the egg buttermilk and melted butter

3 Whisk the egg white to stiff peaks

4 Whisk the wet ingredients into the dry and fold the egg white into the mixture

5 Follow the directions for your waffle pan to cook waffles for around 5 minutes or until cooked through

Note Remember to bring the waffle pan up to temperature in between each batch of waffles

Hazelnut Banana Waffles with Nutella

30

Citrus Beer Friendsby DAVID NUTTALL

This is when the taste andor aroma of a beer can remind the drinker of anything from an orange drink or lemonade to grapefruit soda There are several ways to achieve this character and these beers are becoming more and more popular every day

Hops provide the bitterness in beer and out of the literally hundreds of varieties a few impart citrus notes into the aroma and flavour Cascade and Citra are examples of two of the most popular hops used in several styles of beer most notably the American IPA or India Pale Ale Cascade hops have been around for over 40 years and it is the single most popular hop used by the American craft brewing industry It provides a floralspicy character often reminiscent of grapefruit

Citrarsquos name leaves no guessing as to its attributes A relative newcomer this cross breed of UK German and US hop varieties has been around for less than a decade but it is already an extremely popular hop for imparting

One of the great things about beer is its diversity It can come in a myriad of colours and also a wide variety of flavours citrus being one of the most distinct

Dave Nuttall has been in the liquor and event business forever He is a qualified beer judge and ownerpresident of Epicurean Calgary at epicureancalgarycom for ten years

citrus and tropical fruit characteristics to a beer

It has proven very versatile and appears in several beer styles from session ales to IPAs It has also become a favourite hop to use for dry-hopping (adding hops late into the boil) due to the exceptional aromas it produces For even more flavour and aroma craft brewers now commonly enhance these already citrusy IPAs with actual zest peel or juice from citrus fruits to create an IPAFruit Beer hybrid which sells especially well in summer months

Then there is the yeast and many varieties of yeast can produce citrusy esters The unfiltered hefeweizens brewed on both sides of the Atlantic quite often have a lemony flavour Sour beers also showcase the yeast often cultured from Belgian strains

These beers are tart and produce a gamut of flavours many with citrus qualities and some have added fruit - the easiest and most obvious way to create a citrusy beer The Belgians also add different kinds of oranges with spice additions to their wheat ales to create wit beers now emulated all over the world with different citrus (and other) fruits involved in the recipe We also canrsquot forget the radlers which are simply a lager beer mixed with 40-60 fruit juice - often grapefruit or lemonade

Whether itrsquos added fruit the yeast the hops or a combination of all of them citrusy beers are commonplace now Thanks to new hops like Citra and the increasing popularity of wits and sours we can expect this trend to continue

Here are a few local beers with hints of citrus All are also available on tap

Beer comes in a myriad of colours and flavours citrus being one of the

most distinct

Ribstone Creek Great White CombineThis tiny Edgerton Alberta brewery has been knocking it out of the park lately Named after the ubiquitous Alberta summer hailstorm the use of Belgian yeast sweet orange peel and coriander give this beer an orange flavour in the beginning When the four different hop additions kick in it changes more to a sweet lemony flavour This White IPA has a very tropical feel that makes you forget it was made in northern Alberta CSPC +774162 $16 6-pack cans

Wild Rose Cowbell Sour ales are the new Belle of the Ball at craft breweries Often using imported Belgian yeast strains they are tart tangy and wellhellip sour Calgaryrsquos Wild Rose has taken this flavour profile and added kaffir lime leaves This makes the beer more like a refreshing limeade and is less bitter than many of its other sour counterparts CSPC +778093 $17 6-pack bottles

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Citradelic Single Hop IPA Big Rock BreweryWith breweries in two (soon to be three) provinces Big Rock now has multiple locations to develop new beers This is the first one from their Vancouver brewery and is full of lemongrapefruit flavours and tropical aromas This beer showcases the Citra hop fooling one to think that citrus has been added when itrsquos all thanks to the hop CSPC +778593 $15 6-pack bottles

Alley Kat Main SqueezeWhat started out as a summer seasonal has now become a mainstay of this Edmonton brewery A North American style wheat ale with a 50 wheat and 50 barley mix it has added grapefruit juice but tastes more along the lines of pink grapefruit rather than its more bitter cousin CSPC +733630 $17 6-pack bottles

32

story by RENEE KOHLMAN

Cheesecake is one of those classic desserts that almost everyone loves unless of course you have a dairy allergy then yoursquoll stay far far away from it While it may seem too complicated to make at home I assure you that itrsquos not

Spice it up cheesecake

Sure there are a few steps involved but the key thing to remember is to have your eggs and cream cheese at room temperature For the best crack-free cheesecake itrsquos best to bake it in a water bath It yields a light creamy texture and is well worth the effort Cheesecake always tastes better the next day so bake it the day before you want to serve it Now that wersquove got the basics down itrsquos time to have a little fun with the crust filling and toppings

The Base

The classic graham cracker crust is fine but every now and again itrsquos great to switch things up Try

ndash Grinding up ginger cookies They work especially well for a pumpkin cheesecake

ndash Chocolate cookie crumbs are fantastic for caramel peanut butter and raspberry cheesecakes

ndash Add finely chopped nuts oats or seeds to the cookie crumbs for added texture and taste

The Middle

Therersquos something to be said for a straight up vanilla or chocolate cheesecake but with some fun add-ins they could take your cheesecake to the next level of deliciousness Try

ndash Swirling tahini dulce de leche salted caramel or chocolate fudge sauce into a creamy vanilla filling

ndash Mix in chopped chocolate peanut butter cups to a chocolate filling

ndash Drop fresh berries (raspberries blueberries blackberries) on top of a vanilla filling

ndash Stir in chopped candied ginger dried cherries or cranberries chopped toasted nuts to the filling

ndash Swap some of the cream cheese with ricotta mascarpone cheese or even strained cottage cheese

ndash You can never go wrong with lemon zest in a vanilla cheesecake

Have a little fun with the crust filling

and toppings

33

Apple Crumble CheesecakeMakes about 12-14 servings Total cook and prep time 3 hours (plus overnight chilling)

I love apple crisp and I love cheesecake This recipe is a fine marriage of both and makes a more than acceptable breakfast The base is a crumble of oats and flour the middle is classic cheesecake and itrsquos topped with cinnamon apples and a buttery oat streusel

Crust 2 cups large flake oats1 cup all purpose flour cup packed brown sugarfrac34 cup butter meltedfrac12 tsp salt

Cheesecake Layer3 - 225 g packages cream cheese at room temperature cup granulated sugar1 tsp (5 mL) vanilla3 large eggs at room temperature cup (80 mL) whipping cream

Apple Layer2 apples peeled cored and sliced about 3-4 mm thick1 tsp ground cinnamonfrac12 tsp salt

Streusel Layer1 cup large flake oatsfrac12 cup all-purpose flourfrac12 cup brown sugarfrac12 cup butter softened1 tsp ground cinnamon

Preheat the oven to 375ordm F

1 Butter the bottom and sides of a 9-inch springform pan with sides that are at least 7 cm high Wrap the bottom of the pan in aluminum foil so it comes at least halfway up the sides

2 Combine the crust ingredients in a large bowl Press the crust evenly into the pan and place on a baking sheet Bake for 10 minutes Remove from oven and let it cool on a wire rack

3 Reduce heat to 325ordm F Put a kettle of water on to boil Have a large roasting pan close by

4 Using a stand mixer with a paddle attachment beat the cream cheese at medium speed for 4 minutes scraping down the sides once or twice until it is soft and creamy With the mixer still running add the sugar and beat for another 4 minutes scraping down the sides of the bowl at least twice Beat in the vanilla Add the eggs one at a time beating for 1 minute after each addition and scraping the bowl Reduce speed to low and add the whipping cream

5 Toss the sliced apples with the cinnamon and salt in a small bowl Combine all of the streusel ingredients in a medium bowl and mix well

6 Place the springform pan in the roasting pan Give the cheesecake batter a good stir and pour it on top of the crust Arrange the apples on top and sprinkle the streusel on top of the apples

7 Place in the oven on the middle rack and pour the hot water into the roasting pan so it comes halfway up the sides of the springform pan

8 Bake the cheesecake for 1frac12 hours Turn off the heat prop open the oven door and let the cheesecake hang inside for another hour

9 Carefully remove from the oven and take out the cheesecake from the hot water bath Remove the foil and let the cheesecake come to room temperature on a wire rack Cover the top lightly and refrigerate for at least 4 hours but overnight is best The next day remove the sides of the pan and serve the cake

Renee is a food writer and pastry chef living in beautiful Saskatoon Saskatchewan Her columns appear in The Saskatoon StarPhoenix and her desserts can be enjoyed at Riverside Country Club Also check out her blog wwwsweetsugarbeancom

The Toppings

Cheesecake with no fun toppings is like a salad with no dressing it just doesnrsquot reach its full flavour potential Try

ndash Salted caramel roasted strawberry sauce or warm chocolate sauce

ndash A rhubarbcardamom compote is divine on top of vanilla cheesecake kissed with a bit of lemon zest Cherry compote is divine with chocolate cheesecake

ndash Have a favourite jam Melt it down with a tiny bit of water and drizzle it on top of your favourite cheesecake

ndash Candied nuts and citrus rind chocolate shavings even crumbled cookies are a fun way to add texture to the cheesecake

ndash Never underestimate the power of fresh seasonal berries and a well-made cheesecakeMacerate them in a little sugar and minced mint or basil and they make a lovely topping Donrsquot forget the whipped cream

34

Think about that for a moment and let that sink in like a cherry in your drink

So how old is ice in bars Well thatrsquos a whole story on its own however the Old Fashioned has been talked about in one form or another since the beginning of the 19th Century The first appearance of this classic cocktail was in the Balance and Columbian Repository newspaper in 1806 as such ldquoA stimulating liquor composed of spirits of any kind sugar water and bittersrdquo

The Old FashionedAn Iconic Drink That Has Stood The Test Of Time

by BRICE PERESSINI

Sohelliphow old is the Old Fashioned The Old Fashioned is as old as ice in bars

When you follow these instructions and put this finely-crafted cocktail into your hand swirl around the ice gaze through the caramel-coloured liquid in the glass and contemplate all that has gone into it you can rest assured you are holding a drink that has delighted taste buds for generations The Old Fashioned however has not always been held in high regard There was a time not too long ago where this fine concoction was an unbalanced fruity watered-down pale imitation of itself More recently

there has been a renaissance involved with this invigorating intoxicant and you can and should expect a proper cocktail when it is ordered at a fine establishment

When this drink is properly prepared it should be in perfect balance (as any proper drink should be) The sweetness of the sugar should not cover the flavour of the bourbon and the bitters should add to not overpower the flavour of the whiskey When the Old Fashioned is well made it is as close to cocktail perfection as a sophisticated patron could expect

Befriend a bespoke barkeep at an upstanding establishment and you will be in trusted hands If you find yourself at home and wanting for a nightcap look no further than the Old Fashioned

Enjoy friends

Old Fashioned Recipe

2 oz Buffalo Trace Bourbon (or your personal favourite)4 dashes Angostura Aromatic Bitters1 raw sugar cube

Muddle the sugar and bitters together with a touch of warm water in a rocks glass Add the bourbon then add ice Stir and garnish with an orange peel and cherry (optional)

Brice is a competition cocktail bartender who plies his trade behind the wood at Chefbar Whisk(e)y is his poison Neat

35

Shoulder Season Wines

by JACLYN ADOMEIT

Wines For Cool Weather

Refreshing white wines match with sunny patios and hot days while bold tannic red wines earn their keep by a fireplace on a winter night Common sense But what about the shoulder season What if yoursquore eating sea bass on a rainy spring day Or sipping wine on a patio during an uncommonly warm April afternoon

Photograph courtesy Tom Firth

36

Wine not only pairs with food but with temperatures and seasons A bright sauvignon blanc can taste flat and acidic on a cold night at no fault of the wine or the drinker Some white wines are other-worldly at the vineyard tasting room in the summer but fall flat when you pull them out for dinner guests in the winter

The change in taste is likely due to a number of factors Anatomically it is your sinus cavities creating the change Higher atmospheric pressures allow your nose to pick out subtle aromas while lower pressures bring out a winersquos acidity and harsh tannins CO2 degasses from liquid at low pressure leaving wines dull and flat too

Serving temperature can greatly affect a winersquos aromatics white wines chilled to near-freezing have dull aromas (Tip allow the bottle a half hour on the counter before popping the cork This will allow the aromatics to warm up enhancing the flavour)

Lastly your own palate will be partial to different flavours depending on sun snow wind and sleet but as a rule of thumb higher alcohol white wines (approximately 13 percent or more) will warm the soul and pair best with cooler weather

Here are some wine selections to go for when it is not too hot and not too cold so you can choose a pairing thatrsquos just right

Fiano

Yoursquoll notice that many of the best white wines for cold weather are grown in hot places Hot climates mean a longer growing season more sugar which leads to higher alcohol and often more robust and tropical flavours All of this is true for fiano - seldom grown outside of Campania in southern Italy Fiano produces age-worthy wines which are rich nutty and delicious

Feudi Di San Gregorio 2014 Campania Fiano di Avellino Italy A beautiful floral bouquet with candied lemon followed by honey-coated hazelnuts on the palate Worth cellaring for a few seasons The perfect dance partner for poultry CSPC +708589 $33

Viognier

Viognier is a white varietal that is best consumed at slightly higher temperatures A chilly glass of viognier will leave you with acid maybe oak and not much else Allow it to warm and you may experience peach pear and toasted almond

Traditionally grown in the warm south of France viognier is often a higher alcohol white wine with rich tropical flavours The heat of the alcohol with tropical flavours and lower acid makes viognier the perfect wine to sip while watching a late spring snowfall

Paul Mas 2014 Languedoc-Roussillon Viognier France Brimming with apricot almond lemon and ripe peach Contains hints of warming oak Pair with something savoury baked brie or spinach-filled puff pastry CSPC + 740978 $17

Dry Roseacute

There is so much more to be had from roseacute than white zinfandel And no itrsquos not just a mix of red and white wine The best roseacute is made from red skinned grapes that only sit on their skins for up to a day and a half to borrow colour and flavour then are fermented and processed

Refined examples of roseacute wines are often dry and have deep aromas of red fruits mild tannins and are savoury instead of sweet The French and Spanish craft great examples of dry roseacutes that are either a single varietal or a blend of grapes such as mourvegravedre grenache syrah or tempranillo

Muga Roseacute 2014 Rioja Grenache Viura and Tempranillo Spain A tamed Rioja Orange blossom woven together with strawberry and a palate of cherry and savoury soft cheese Ideal for charcuterie CSPC + 710261 $16

Orange Wine

Never heard of orange wine A commercial demand for natural wines has fostered a resurgence in ancient wine making practices While roseacute wines are reds that have been produced using white wine making practices orange wines are created from white grapes submitted to maceration and allowed to sit on the skins before fermentation the same practice employed in red winemaking

Unlike any white you have tasted orange wines are full-bodied have mild tannins and deep flavours - the characteristics that allow red wines to bring warmth to cool nights A must try for any wine buff

Allow the bottle a half hour on the counter

before popping the cork

The Bicicleta wines are characterized by their fruity expression and for offering more than

the traditional strains a clear example of this range`s innovation style and creativity

Cono Sur Vineyards amp Winery ConoSurVineyards ConoSurWinesconosurcom

The brewhouse at Wild Rose

Jaclynrsquos first passion was winemaking Shersquos worked in vineyards cellars and restaurants Currently she is a writer who daylights as an environmental engineer She believes that a good life like a good wine is not complete without balance

Nichol 2013 Naramata Pinot Gris Canada A Canadian example of orange wine with backbone Flavours of caramel apple roast nuts orange rind and peach CSPC +504159 $31

Oaked chardonnay

In and out with popular palates oak and chardonnay have been partners for a long time Oak paired with chardonnay can bring out butter richness toasted vanilla tree fruit and in the best examples shimmering minerality That is because oak aging is often accompanied by a malolactic fermentation process that smooths out rigid acids into lactic acid - the acid found in milk

Chardonnay is a grape of many talents and encounters a great diversity of production styles It is oaked examples that pair best with pensive rainy days They are full-bodied warming and complex

Wente Morning Fog 2014 Livermore Valley (California) Chardonnay USA Half oak-aged and malolactic-fermented half crisp and fresh this chardonnay brings together green apple vanilla and toasted oak A friend to cream sauce and roast chicken CSPC +175430 $18

In a province of mutable weather let your wine choices be as varied as the ever changing winds Cheers and herersquos to refined full-bodied cool-weather wines

38

Once yoursquore done with your magazine cover shoot like we did this month or prepping for dinner and have all of those odds and ends just sitting on the cutting board - you know carrot ends onion skins tips of celery stalks you get the point - donrsquot toss lsquoem

Instead place them into a large ziploc bag and straight into the freezer After a couple of weeks yoursquoll likely have four full freezer bags of vegetable bits ready to be turned into broth and herersquos how you do it

Making a big batch of vegetable broth doesnrsquot always mean a trip to the grocery store All you need to do is save those scraps This is a handy trick I learned years ago courtesy of Bon Appetit

No-Waste Vegetable Broth

by DAN CLAPSON

Odds And Ends BrothYields 8 cups (2 L)

12 cups (3 L) water4 full ziploc bags of vegetable trimmings1 yellow onion quartered4 cloves garlicAromatics of choice (I usually toss a couple of rosemary and thyme sprigs in there)To taste Salt and pepper

1 Place all ingredients in a large pot and bring to a boil on medium-high heat

2 Reduce to medium heat and let simmer uncovered for 1frac12 hours

3 Strain season to taste with salt and pepper and use as desired

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40

Salentein 2012 Reserve Chardonnay Uco Valley Argentina

Very very enjoyable chardonnay blowing me away with complexity varietal character and fine balance between oak lees and fruit Toffee baked apple tangerine and a little almond on the nose lead into silkily textured wine in the mouth Top shelf chardonnay that might be great with lobster tails mussels or poultry Around $20 CSPC +779479

Rutini 2013 Cabernet Malbec Mendoza Argentina

An exceptionally well put together blend - if you want rich berry fruits lots of body but maybe not tons of varietal characters from the individual components Lifted and bright fruits make for a very enjoyable glass Simply perfect for your next barbecue a roast or just chilling out with friends and family $26-30 CSPC +776822

Vinecol 2014 Organic Malbec Mendoza Argentina Fair Trade organic and vegan along with a good price is it still good Piles of fresh fruits (think smashed raspberries) with plenty of spice and soft herb-leaf aromas There are plenty of malbec flavours on the palate too Good for any day of the week with just a little tension between fruit tannin and acid it might be best with pub style burgers pulled pork or sausages About $16 CSPC +755296

Argentina is so much more than malbec While such a noble grape has found its best home in the high altitude vineyards of Argentina there is a lot going on with other grapes as well

Making The Case For Argentina

by TOM FIRTH

This massive country nestled up against the Andes mountains has a range of growing conditions suited to a number of grapes From Salta in the north to Patagonia in the south plenty of interesting wines are available here - many reasonably priced and of excellent quality So yes there are some

malbecs on these pages but please do try some of the other grapes and blends coming from Argentina too

Be sure to crack open a bottle of malbec on ldquoWorld Malbec Dayrdquo April 17 - who knows it might be nice enough to barbecue too

Photograph courtesy Tom Firth

41

Manos Negras 2011 Stone Soil Select Mendoza Argentina Quite new to the market this is a pretty enjoyable version of Argentinarsquos flagship grape Loads of blue fruit and raspberries with spices galore and a little compost Rich flavours lead to a lengthy spicy finish Yes please Bring to a barbecue if you can $21 CSPC +630541

Zuccardi 2012 Zeta Mendoza Argentina

A malbec-cabernet sauvignon blend that is also a blend of two different Mendoza appellations La Consulta and Gualtallary Deep and abundant fruit aromas with liquorice root and a touch of blueberry preserves Excellent balance of flavours on the palate too with the right structure and tannin for aging if desired Enjoy with a prime rib or even meaty pasta dishes or game $50-52 CSPC +740270

Zuccardi 2012 ldquoEmmardquo Bonarda Mendoza Argentina

In my humble opinion one of the finest bonardas coming out of Argentina Notes of coffee bean and espresso complement cherry and blackberry fruits with healthy balanced tannins to stand up to the tart fruits Delicious for sure enjoy at your next barbecue $40 CSPC +758407

Luigi Bosca 2011 Cabernet-Malbec Mendoza Argentina

A wonderfully earthy and savoury blend with plenty of tobacco spice leather and yes lots of fruit too The earthy flavours work well with the big dark chocolate flavours and weighty tannins Drink now or through 2020 or so - with a steak naturally $22-24 CSPC +766010

Trivento 2013 Golden Reserve Malbec Lujan de Cuyo Argentina While there is a trend to see a lot of premium malbecs move away from oak presence this one is a bold smooth and delicious example that is seeing about a year of oak All those berry fruits plums and herb notes malbec is known for along with the smoothness that only oak brings Kick back relax maybe cook up some steaks - enjoy About $24 CSPC +711402

Trivento 2014 Malbec Reserve Mendoza Argentina Nearly unbeatable for good malbec at a great price itrsquos rich and chocolatey on the nose with big fruits and oak tones too Mild garrigue notes or dried herb flavours with plenty of fruit and tannins - still showing a fine sense of balance Enjoy with beef $14 CSPC +730714

Luigi Bosca 2011 De Sangre Mendoza Argentina A blend of cabernet sauvignon merlot and syrah that manages to pull out the best of each varietal Earthy and slightly smoky with good fruits and plenty of versatility Tannins are well-placed against the fruits with a long smooth finish Irsquove been a fan of this wine year after year Good to keep a couple on hand in the cellar About $29 CSPC +745106

Salentein 2012 Numina Gran Corte Uco Valley Argentina A malbec-dominated Bordeaux blend this stunner is all about ripe fruits cedar pepper cherries and plum with a little tealeaf and the right amount of tannins Very very well balanced and like any great wine think about some food to go with it Beef tenderloin slow cooked meats or maybe at your next asadohellip About $40 CSPC +764706

Colonia Las Liebres 2013 Bonarda Mendoza Argentina Bear with me here - a fine bonarda with plenty of earthy smoky aromas leading to rubber charred cherries and cocoa Some pretty prominent tannins to be found as well but wow does it all come together A wine that just begs for duck with cranberries or maybe some kebabshellip$20 CSPC +773381

42

Open That Bottleby LINDA GARSON photography by INGRID KUENZEL

ldquoIf you work in a place and yoursquore miserable I donrsquot know if there is a dollar amount that can be attached to that The work that yoursquore doing has to be rewarding and challengingrdquo says Karen KhoGrowing up in Niagara Falls in a Philippino SpanishChinese family Kho was surrounded by food and drinks with an open door policy that has had a huge influence on the person she is today - an

entertainer who likes to make people feel welcome ldquoMy parents wanted me to be a lawyer there was definitely an encouragement to use my voice for goodrdquo she explains ldquoAnd I still think I help people but in a different way a very social wayrdquo

Graduating Western University with a political science degree in 2000 Kho spent a year travelling and living in Australia before taking a leap of faith and moving to Calgary Here she studied wine with the International Sommeliers Guild and WSET but says her real education was a job she adored working in the wine trade at BIN 905 in tandem with running wine programs for CRMR restaurants It was only when the opportunity came to create the wine program at Vin Room six years later that Kho leapt at the challenge of a new idea for the city and spent four happy years there

Eventually she and her partner decided to stretch their wings and went to Vancouver where Kho embarked on a six-month culinary course at the Pacific Institute of Culinary Arts ticking off another box on her bucket list ldquoI wanted a greater understanding of technique in the kitchen and I wanted an understanding of what service on a very basic level would look like if I ever owned my own place and ever had to be the person who filled inrdquo she says ldquoI feel if I was ever in a place that needed someone to chop onions Irsquom your womanrdquo she laughs

A year later the pair came back with the idea of eventually opening their own business in Calgary ldquoThe support we get from this community is heartfelt and this is a city of opportunity People with the right concept are seeing a lot of great success itrsquos still our game planrdquo she says Meanwhile Kho applied only to Teatro where she is now Group Service Director

ldquoI wanted to work at a place that had a challenging wine program and had a level of service with high expectations and where professional service teams

applyrdquo she says ldquoItrsquos pretty romantic to work for a company that has been built on a foundation of service Successful businesses in the restaurant industry get the grand picture which is the moments that yoursquore creating for people and I like to be a part of thatrdquo she adds

So what bottle is Kho saving for a special occasion

Paying homage to her time at BIN 905 Kho explains ldquoI have a bottle of 1996 Chateau Mouton Rothschild which was given to me with some very kind words on my last day at BIN Irsquove always just appreciated my time there it was where I learned the vernacular of wine and itrsquos my first job where I really saw the benefits of serving people with intentionrdquo She continues ldquoI always see it thankfully as the stepping-stone to a broader wine profession and eventually to the position that I have now It was given to me by very close friends that Irsquom still friends with to this dayrdquo

And when is she planning to open the wine

ldquoWhen (partner) Dave and I open our own restaurantrdquo Kho says This isnrsquot something that something that will happen tomorrow but fortunately the wine will last until theyrsquore ready

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23

Three main knives can cover almost all the work that a layman cook needs

to do in the kitchen

Chefrsquos Knife Your standard knife for mincing and slicing vegetables and meat a chefrsquos knife is typically 20-25 cm long but can range all the way up to 36 cm

Luke Pickett from Knifewear is a sight to see wielding some wickedly sharp

handcrafted Japanese models but despite their carnivorous look Pickett said therersquos really nothing to fear

ldquoThere are a lot of people who are scared of really large knivesrdquo Pickett said ldquoBut having good quality kitchen equipment will make your life easierrdquo

For beginners a standard 20 cm chefrsquos knife (although Pickett said blade length is purely based on personal preference) is best to start with but a Japanese Santoku knife mdash an elegant slightly smaller version of a chefrsquos knife mdash will certainly get the job er meal done

Paring KnifeOn the other side of the knife spectrum is the pocket-sized paring knife (note carrying knives in pockets not recommended)

Regan Johnson assistant manager at The Cookbook Co said besides what the individual using a steak knife to cut everything might think the small intricate work required of a paring knife (such as peeling and trimming) should not be done on a cutting board

ldquoParing is anything you can be doing in the air mdash yoursquore not ever supposed to use a paring knife on a boardrdquo she explained

Johnson added that for someone like herself who does almost as much blade-wielding as a samurai she also recommends a utility knife

which is a hybrid of a chefrsquos knife and a paring knife

ldquoI reach for my utility knife a lotrdquo she said ldquoItrsquos got that shape of a paring knife but is longer Itrsquos just for those things in between that you donrsquot need your giant chefrsquos knife forrdquo

Bread KnifeThe last of the big three is of course a bread knife Have you ever tried to cut a loaf of bread with a straight blade Not so easy (or safe) a task

Itrsquos sometimes difficult to do but no matter the type of knife yoursquore using itrsquos important to try and slice as opposed to chopping or sawing It

is quite tempting (and often seems easier) to saw away at the crispy crust of a floured loaf of sourdough but Knifewearrsquos Pickett said sawing can

be a slippery slope to your bread knifersquos grave

ldquoIf you slice you can use the entire blade and itrsquos a lot sharper along the edgerdquo he explained ldquoItrsquos important to get a good bread knife because you canrsquot sharpen them like you can any other sort of kniferdquo

The Big Three

24

Having good quality kitchen equipment will

make your life easier

Anna Brooks is an award-winning journalist from Calgary Alberta She has worked internationally in Thailand and Africa and has been published in Metro BeatRoute Magazine and the Calgary Journal She also enjoys animal rights fantasy fiction and whiskey sours

Tips and TricksOf course you can adorn your kitchen with the countless others belonging to the knife family mdash cleavers carvers boning knives cheese knives etc mdash but if yoursquore not planning on hacking through solid bone anytime soon you probably donrsquot need to spend $200 on a meat cleaver

But there are some other knife-related implements that are important to have in your kitchen

First off a proper cutting board While plastic cutting boards are versatile and can be chucked in the dishwasher wood is really the best way to go Cutting boards are the quickest way to ruin a knife so steer clear of fancy-looking glass or granite boards mdash they are the antagonists of our story

Itrsquos also not a bad idea to have a knife honer on hand As a reminder (or for

those who had no idea what that random rod in the kitchen was used for) honers are for honing not sharpening

ldquoWith use the metal fibres in a knife edge can get bent to one side or another All yoursquore doing with honing is straightening those fibres back outrdquo Johnson from The Cookbook Co explained ldquoSharpening means yoursquore actually removing material and grinding the metal down to a finer edgerdquo

Johnson added that while you can sharpen at home she always recommends getting your knives sharpened professionally at least once a year depending on how much theyare used

Before you go back to making your lazy-day grilled cheese sandwich or that complex stew yoursquove spent hours on we just want to remind you of whatrsquos called ldquothe pinch griprdquo

Not to sound snobbish but grabbing a knife by the handle and hacking away is poor form Use your thumb and index finger to grasp the blade and then wrap your remaining fingers under the bolster of the knife Shape your other hand into a claw to protect your fingertips from accidentally getting lopped off firmly grasp the object to be cut and slice away

If this knowledge was present in the 17th century perhaps old King Louis XIV would be tipping his crown to more cooks not kitchen knife combatants

25

Times Are A Changing Unexpected Take-Outs

by LINDA GARSON and DIANA NG photography by INGRID KUENZEL

Therersquos no denying that many of our cityrsquos restaurants are feeling the effects of the current economic downturn fewer people working downtown ndash indeed fewer people working altogether and so looking to save money by eating out less means many bricks and mortar restaurants are having to get creative with ways to fully utilise their kitchens and staff

High rents exacerbate the situation so itrsquos time for Calgary restaurateurs to think outside the box and proving to be the innovative entrepreneurs that wersquore known for many are diversifying their offerings to include take-out options both raw and cooked

Catch amp The Oyster Bar launched their ldquoBuy Catchrdquo program where you can pick up fresh Ocean Wise seafood to take home and cook (complete with recipes) along with house-made clam chowder and sauces nearly two years ago There are big savings to be had over dining in with no costs for linen or staff and no expectation to tip

Here are four Calgary eateries also getting clever with take-out

programs that are not widely publicised - and may

open a few eyes

26

Centini Restaurant

Itrsquos not a cookie cutter program but the magic of Centinirsquos take-out is that you can ask the kitchen for ideas of what you should have for dinner People even text the servers for suggestions and to order Loyal customers mostly busy businessmen were asking if they catered but without the staff for such a service Centini started offering to prepare dishes for them to cook themselves

Now you can get your favourite restaurant dishes from rack of lamb with red wine demi-glace AAA Alberta beef tenderloin with Gorgonzola pan sauce and sea bass with ginger cream sauce ready to cook at home ldquoWersquore not going to open a bricks and mortar restaurant down south but our food is going thererdquo says Chevonne Centini Theyrsquore seeing pick-ups such as for people stuck at home with a new baby and even 40 people for a funeral

Boxwood

Itrsquos hard to believe that the quality of food coming from the sister restaurant to River Cafe can be had at home and we are not talking about leftovers When

People take home uncooked homemade pasta with sauce separately and even bread dough and often freeze it to cook later or pick up on a Friday evening so everything is prepared ready for Saturday dinner When buying from a restaurant yoursquore getting top quality perfectly trimmed meat everything is done for you - therersquos no shopping

around and even the parsley is chopped And as everything is custom-made all allergies are catered for too

Centini gets fish delivered once or twice every day and it may come as a surprise but with a chef garde manger that spent 15 years in Japan they have customers coming just to take out sushi

you go home to an empty fridge it feels like the only options you have are fast food or pizza Not so

Boxwoodrsquos fresh and seasonal fare is also available to take home While you wonrsquot

be able to enjoy the quaint atmosphere of the restaurant you can order anything on the menu for take out with its special offering being the whole rotisserie free-range chicken which serves two to four people for $40

Many bricks and mortar restaurants are

having to get creative with ways to fully utilise their

kitchens and staff

You will need to call a few hours ahead (the website states before 200 pm) for enough notice for the chicken but for the rest of the selection like its soups and sandwiches you can simply look up the menu online and call to place an order For a perfect night in may we suggest starting with its bison tartare then moving onto the porchetta and another main before finishing off the meal with a slice of pie

27

Gaucho

For most people the elaborate setup of Brazilian barbecue is one of its biggest attractions You may not know this and while you may not be able to take home the lively decor of Gaucho you can actually take the meal home

The spit packed tightly with freshly roasted meats the sign at the table that signals yoursquore ready for more and the roasted and caramelized pineapple that tops off the meal all contribute to the atmosphere but if all you want are the meats and sides for a hefty dinner you can certainly order the meal as a take-out

Order any of the four options (top sirloin pork loin chicken wings or mild sausage) and add three sides from the list of eight which includes a variety of salads black bean stew and rice And because you canrsquot just have one kind of meat when it comes to Brazilian barbecue you can choose additional

Safari Grill

The marinated thinly sliced BBQ short beef ribs at Safari Grill are already a must-have for those in the know but we suspect even regulars will be surprised to discover that you can pick

up uncooked ribs with your choice of seven marinades to take home and BBQ yourself

With none of the associated costs of dining in $65 buys you enough ribs for 10 people and customers actually drive

meats for $4 each Finally choose the sauce yoursquod like to accompany your meal Orders for over five people will come in a big white box and individual

orders come will in regular take-out containers For big parties do call a few hours ahead All you need to make at home is the caipirinha

from Saskatchewan to take away 10-15 lb bags of these uncooked marinated ribs Some people call and ask for them to be marinated and frozen in 5 lb bags to enjoy later as just 5-7 minutes each side on a high flame has the raw ribs ready to eat

And itrsquos not only ribs that people BBQ at home Mishkaki are skewers of marinated chicken beef and prawns and for as little as $3 each you can have a very inexpensive BBQ feast Marinated raw lamb chops are also available or ask for Samaki - a marinated whole tilapia that comes with a basting sauce to brush on You can even get uncooked samosas to cook in your oven at home

All Safari Grillrsquos regular menu can be ordered for take-out but there is no published price list for uncooked dishes so people call to order and ask - but when yoursquore picking up look out for the new jars of house-made mango and lemon pickles

28

Step By Step Go Nuts With Homemade Nutella And Waffles story and photography by NATALIE FINDLAY

There are many nutritional benefits packed into these small filberts They are rich in dietary fibre packed with folate an excellent source of vitamin E and contain mono-unsaturated fatty acids that

can help lower bad cholesterol and raise good cholesterol By making your own Nutella at home you can control the amount of sugar that is added making this delicious spread basicallyhellip a health food

Hazelnuts have a tried and true following for taking the lead role in the chocolate spread Nutella This long-standing love affair has lasted simply because they add a distinct but subtle flavour to the chocolate Truly a match that is better together than apart

These delicious and super-easy waffles make a great base for your homemade Nutella With the addition of ground hazelnuts to the batter you can deepen the hazelnut flavour and pack in more health benefits

Waffles with raspberries and white chocolate spread

29

Natalie is a freelance writer photographer and pastry chef A graduate of Cordon Bleursquos pastry program she manages her own business too to create custom-made cakes

Using the same waffle recipe from above and switching out the mashed banana and adding frac12 a medium orange ndash juice and zest ndash to the batter you have a delicious orange waffle that will highlight the white chocolate hazelnut spread recipe below

Homemade White Chocolate Hazelnut Spread Makes 1frac12 cups

1frac12 cups (200 g) whole hazelnutsfrac12 cup (70 g) icing sugar2 Tbs (30 mL) canola oil1 tsp (5 mL) vanilla extract1 cup (250g) white chocolate

Follow directions for Homemade Nutella and add the melted white chocolate at the end Pulse to combine

Macerated Raspberries with Orange Serves 6

250 g fresh raspberriesfrac12 medium orange zest and juice1 Tbs icing sugarfrac12 tsp vanilla extract

Add all ingredients into a medium bowl and stir to combine Let sit for about 1 hour

Serve your warm waffles topped with your white chocolate homemade hazelnut spread macerated berries and a dollop of whipped cream or ice cream

Note Homemade Nutella has more texture than store bought and will last around 1 month in the fridge Waffles can be made ahead and frozen Thaw and reheat in the waffle maker or the oven

Banana Fruit compoteMakes enough for 6

3 ripe bananas peeled sliced into rounds2 Tbs (30 g) butter2 Tbs (30 g) brown sugar1frac12 tsp (8 mL) vanilla extract1frac12 tsp (8 mL) bourbon

1 Add butter and sugar to a sauteacute pan over medium heat As they melt stir to combine

2 Add vanilla and bourbon than add sliced bananas and sauteacute until warmed through

Serve your warm waffles topped with your homemade hazelnut spread sauteacuteed bananas and a dollop of whipped cream or ice cream

Homemade Nutella Makes 1frac12 cups

1frac12 cups (200 g) whole hazelnutsfrac34 cup (100g) icing sugar3 Tbs (45 mL) canola oilfrac14 cup (30 g) cocoa powder1 tsp (5 mL) vanilla extract

1 Toast hazelnuts on a baking pan in a preheated 350ordm F oven for 10 - 15 minutes Keep an eye on them to make sure they donrsquot start to burn Remove from oven and let cool to the touch

2 Wrap the nuts in a kitchen towel and rub together to remove the skins This should remove most of the skins

3 Place skinless hazelnuts in a food processor on high Process the nuts until they form a smooth paste and the oils start to separate (about 5 minutes) scraping the bowl often

4 Add the icing sugar cocoa powder vanilla and canola oil to the food processor and process until fully incorporated scraping bowl of processor as needed (about 2 minutes)

Hazelnut Banana WafflesMakes 6

frac12 cup (80 g) all purpose flour1 tsp baking powderfrac12 tsp baking sodaPinch sea salt1 Tbs (15 g) icing sugar1 Tbs (10 g) ground hazelnuts6 grates whole nutmeg1 tsp ground cinnamonfrac12 cup (125 mL) buttermilk1 egg yolk2 Tbs (30 g) butter meltedfrac12 small banana peeled and mashed1 egg white

1 Sift together all dry ingredients (except the ground hazelnuts) in a medium bowl Add the ground hazelnuts and combine

2 Mash the half banana in a small bowl with a fork Add the egg buttermilk and melted butter

3 Whisk the egg white to stiff peaks

4 Whisk the wet ingredients into the dry and fold the egg white into the mixture

5 Follow the directions for your waffle pan to cook waffles for around 5 minutes or until cooked through

Note Remember to bring the waffle pan up to temperature in between each batch of waffles

Hazelnut Banana Waffles with Nutella

30

Citrus Beer Friendsby DAVID NUTTALL

This is when the taste andor aroma of a beer can remind the drinker of anything from an orange drink or lemonade to grapefruit soda There are several ways to achieve this character and these beers are becoming more and more popular every day

Hops provide the bitterness in beer and out of the literally hundreds of varieties a few impart citrus notes into the aroma and flavour Cascade and Citra are examples of two of the most popular hops used in several styles of beer most notably the American IPA or India Pale Ale Cascade hops have been around for over 40 years and it is the single most popular hop used by the American craft brewing industry It provides a floralspicy character often reminiscent of grapefruit

Citrarsquos name leaves no guessing as to its attributes A relative newcomer this cross breed of UK German and US hop varieties has been around for less than a decade but it is already an extremely popular hop for imparting

One of the great things about beer is its diversity It can come in a myriad of colours and also a wide variety of flavours citrus being one of the most distinct

Dave Nuttall has been in the liquor and event business forever He is a qualified beer judge and ownerpresident of Epicurean Calgary at epicureancalgarycom for ten years

citrus and tropical fruit characteristics to a beer

It has proven very versatile and appears in several beer styles from session ales to IPAs It has also become a favourite hop to use for dry-hopping (adding hops late into the boil) due to the exceptional aromas it produces For even more flavour and aroma craft brewers now commonly enhance these already citrusy IPAs with actual zest peel or juice from citrus fruits to create an IPAFruit Beer hybrid which sells especially well in summer months

Then there is the yeast and many varieties of yeast can produce citrusy esters The unfiltered hefeweizens brewed on both sides of the Atlantic quite often have a lemony flavour Sour beers also showcase the yeast often cultured from Belgian strains

These beers are tart and produce a gamut of flavours many with citrus qualities and some have added fruit - the easiest and most obvious way to create a citrusy beer The Belgians also add different kinds of oranges with spice additions to their wheat ales to create wit beers now emulated all over the world with different citrus (and other) fruits involved in the recipe We also canrsquot forget the radlers which are simply a lager beer mixed with 40-60 fruit juice - often grapefruit or lemonade

Whether itrsquos added fruit the yeast the hops or a combination of all of them citrusy beers are commonplace now Thanks to new hops like Citra and the increasing popularity of wits and sours we can expect this trend to continue

Here are a few local beers with hints of citrus All are also available on tap

Beer comes in a myriad of colours and flavours citrus being one of the

most distinct

Ribstone Creek Great White CombineThis tiny Edgerton Alberta brewery has been knocking it out of the park lately Named after the ubiquitous Alberta summer hailstorm the use of Belgian yeast sweet orange peel and coriander give this beer an orange flavour in the beginning When the four different hop additions kick in it changes more to a sweet lemony flavour This White IPA has a very tropical feel that makes you forget it was made in northern Alberta CSPC +774162 $16 6-pack cans

Wild Rose Cowbell Sour ales are the new Belle of the Ball at craft breweries Often using imported Belgian yeast strains they are tart tangy and wellhellip sour Calgaryrsquos Wild Rose has taken this flavour profile and added kaffir lime leaves This makes the beer more like a refreshing limeade and is less bitter than many of its other sour counterparts CSPC +778093 $17 6-pack bottles

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TICKETS AVAILABLE AT ALBERTABEERFESTIVALSCOM

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Citradelic Single Hop IPA Big Rock BreweryWith breweries in two (soon to be three) provinces Big Rock now has multiple locations to develop new beers This is the first one from their Vancouver brewery and is full of lemongrapefruit flavours and tropical aromas This beer showcases the Citra hop fooling one to think that citrus has been added when itrsquos all thanks to the hop CSPC +778593 $15 6-pack bottles

Alley Kat Main SqueezeWhat started out as a summer seasonal has now become a mainstay of this Edmonton brewery A North American style wheat ale with a 50 wheat and 50 barley mix it has added grapefruit juice but tastes more along the lines of pink grapefruit rather than its more bitter cousin CSPC +733630 $17 6-pack bottles

32

story by RENEE KOHLMAN

Cheesecake is one of those classic desserts that almost everyone loves unless of course you have a dairy allergy then yoursquoll stay far far away from it While it may seem too complicated to make at home I assure you that itrsquos not

Spice it up cheesecake

Sure there are a few steps involved but the key thing to remember is to have your eggs and cream cheese at room temperature For the best crack-free cheesecake itrsquos best to bake it in a water bath It yields a light creamy texture and is well worth the effort Cheesecake always tastes better the next day so bake it the day before you want to serve it Now that wersquove got the basics down itrsquos time to have a little fun with the crust filling and toppings

The Base

The classic graham cracker crust is fine but every now and again itrsquos great to switch things up Try

ndash Grinding up ginger cookies They work especially well for a pumpkin cheesecake

ndash Chocolate cookie crumbs are fantastic for caramel peanut butter and raspberry cheesecakes

ndash Add finely chopped nuts oats or seeds to the cookie crumbs for added texture and taste

The Middle

Therersquos something to be said for a straight up vanilla or chocolate cheesecake but with some fun add-ins they could take your cheesecake to the next level of deliciousness Try

ndash Swirling tahini dulce de leche salted caramel or chocolate fudge sauce into a creamy vanilla filling

ndash Mix in chopped chocolate peanut butter cups to a chocolate filling

ndash Drop fresh berries (raspberries blueberries blackberries) on top of a vanilla filling

ndash Stir in chopped candied ginger dried cherries or cranberries chopped toasted nuts to the filling

ndash Swap some of the cream cheese with ricotta mascarpone cheese or even strained cottage cheese

ndash You can never go wrong with lemon zest in a vanilla cheesecake

Have a little fun with the crust filling

and toppings

33

Apple Crumble CheesecakeMakes about 12-14 servings Total cook and prep time 3 hours (plus overnight chilling)

I love apple crisp and I love cheesecake This recipe is a fine marriage of both and makes a more than acceptable breakfast The base is a crumble of oats and flour the middle is classic cheesecake and itrsquos topped with cinnamon apples and a buttery oat streusel

Crust 2 cups large flake oats1 cup all purpose flour cup packed brown sugarfrac34 cup butter meltedfrac12 tsp salt

Cheesecake Layer3 - 225 g packages cream cheese at room temperature cup granulated sugar1 tsp (5 mL) vanilla3 large eggs at room temperature cup (80 mL) whipping cream

Apple Layer2 apples peeled cored and sliced about 3-4 mm thick1 tsp ground cinnamonfrac12 tsp salt

Streusel Layer1 cup large flake oatsfrac12 cup all-purpose flourfrac12 cup brown sugarfrac12 cup butter softened1 tsp ground cinnamon

Preheat the oven to 375ordm F

1 Butter the bottom and sides of a 9-inch springform pan with sides that are at least 7 cm high Wrap the bottom of the pan in aluminum foil so it comes at least halfway up the sides

2 Combine the crust ingredients in a large bowl Press the crust evenly into the pan and place on a baking sheet Bake for 10 minutes Remove from oven and let it cool on a wire rack

3 Reduce heat to 325ordm F Put a kettle of water on to boil Have a large roasting pan close by

4 Using a stand mixer with a paddle attachment beat the cream cheese at medium speed for 4 minutes scraping down the sides once or twice until it is soft and creamy With the mixer still running add the sugar and beat for another 4 minutes scraping down the sides of the bowl at least twice Beat in the vanilla Add the eggs one at a time beating for 1 minute after each addition and scraping the bowl Reduce speed to low and add the whipping cream

5 Toss the sliced apples with the cinnamon and salt in a small bowl Combine all of the streusel ingredients in a medium bowl and mix well

6 Place the springform pan in the roasting pan Give the cheesecake batter a good stir and pour it on top of the crust Arrange the apples on top and sprinkle the streusel on top of the apples

7 Place in the oven on the middle rack and pour the hot water into the roasting pan so it comes halfway up the sides of the springform pan

8 Bake the cheesecake for 1frac12 hours Turn off the heat prop open the oven door and let the cheesecake hang inside for another hour

9 Carefully remove from the oven and take out the cheesecake from the hot water bath Remove the foil and let the cheesecake come to room temperature on a wire rack Cover the top lightly and refrigerate for at least 4 hours but overnight is best The next day remove the sides of the pan and serve the cake

Renee is a food writer and pastry chef living in beautiful Saskatoon Saskatchewan Her columns appear in The Saskatoon StarPhoenix and her desserts can be enjoyed at Riverside Country Club Also check out her blog wwwsweetsugarbeancom

The Toppings

Cheesecake with no fun toppings is like a salad with no dressing it just doesnrsquot reach its full flavour potential Try

ndash Salted caramel roasted strawberry sauce or warm chocolate sauce

ndash A rhubarbcardamom compote is divine on top of vanilla cheesecake kissed with a bit of lemon zest Cherry compote is divine with chocolate cheesecake

ndash Have a favourite jam Melt it down with a tiny bit of water and drizzle it on top of your favourite cheesecake

ndash Candied nuts and citrus rind chocolate shavings even crumbled cookies are a fun way to add texture to the cheesecake

ndash Never underestimate the power of fresh seasonal berries and a well-made cheesecakeMacerate them in a little sugar and minced mint or basil and they make a lovely topping Donrsquot forget the whipped cream

34

Think about that for a moment and let that sink in like a cherry in your drink

So how old is ice in bars Well thatrsquos a whole story on its own however the Old Fashioned has been talked about in one form or another since the beginning of the 19th Century The first appearance of this classic cocktail was in the Balance and Columbian Repository newspaper in 1806 as such ldquoA stimulating liquor composed of spirits of any kind sugar water and bittersrdquo

The Old FashionedAn Iconic Drink That Has Stood The Test Of Time

by BRICE PERESSINI

Sohelliphow old is the Old Fashioned The Old Fashioned is as old as ice in bars

When you follow these instructions and put this finely-crafted cocktail into your hand swirl around the ice gaze through the caramel-coloured liquid in the glass and contemplate all that has gone into it you can rest assured you are holding a drink that has delighted taste buds for generations The Old Fashioned however has not always been held in high regard There was a time not too long ago where this fine concoction was an unbalanced fruity watered-down pale imitation of itself More recently

there has been a renaissance involved with this invigorating intoxicant and you can and should expect a proper cocktail when it is ordered at a fine establishment

When this drink is properly prepared it should be in perfect balance (as any proper drink should be) The sweetness of the sugar should not cover the flavour of the bourbon and the bitters should add to not overpower the flavour of the whiskey When the Old Fashioned is well made it is as close to cocktail perfection as a sophisticated patron could expect

Befriend a bespoke barkeep at an upstanding establishment and you will be in trusted hands If you find yourself at home and wanting for a nightcap look no further than the Old Fashioned

Enjoy friends

Old Fashioned Recipe

2 oz Buffalo Trace Bourbon (or your personal favourite)4 dashes Angostura Aromatic Bitters1 raw sugar cube

Muddle the sugar and bitters together with a touch of warm water in a rocks glass Add the bourbon then add ice Stir and garnish with an orange peel and cherry (optional)

Brice is a competition cocktail bartender who plies his trade behind the wood at Chefbar Whisk(e)y is his poison Neat

35

Shoulder Season Wines

by JACLYN ADOMEIT

Wines For Cool Weather

Refreshing white wines match with sunny patios and hot days while bold tannic red wines earn their keep by a fireplace on a winter night Common sense But what about the shoulder season What if yoursquore eating sea bass on a rainy spring day Or sipping wine on a patio during an uncommonly warm April afternoon

Photograph courtesy Tom Firth

36

Wine not only pairs with food but with temperatures and seasons A bright sauvignon blanc can taste flat and acidic on a cold night at no fault of the wine or the drinker Some white wines are other-worldly at the vineyard tasting room in the summer but fall flat when you pull them out for dinner guests in the winter

The change in taste is likely due to a number of factors Anatomically it is your sinus cavities creating the change Higher atmospheric pressures allow your nose to pick out subtle aromas while lower pressures bring out a winersquos acidity and harsh tannins CO2 degasses from liquid at low pressure leaving wines dull and flat too

Serving temperature can greatly affect a winersquos aromatics white wines chilled to near-freezing have dull aromas (Tip allow the bottle a half hour on the counter before popping the cork This will allow the aromatics to warm up enhancing the flavour)

Lastly your own palate will be partial to different flavours depending on sun snow wind and sleet but as a rule of thumb higher alcohol white wines (approximately 13 percent or more) will warm the soul and pair best with cooler weather

Here are some wine selections to go for when it is not too hot and not too cold so you can choose a pairing thatrsquos just right

Fiano

Yoursquoll notice that many of the best white wines for cold weather are grown in hot places Hot climates mean a longer growing season more sugar which leads to higher alcohol and often more robust and tropical flavours All of this is true for fiano - seldom grown outside of Campania in southern Italy Fiano produces age-worthy wines which are rich nutty and delicious

Feudi Di San Gregorio 2014 Campania Fiano di Avellino Italy A beautiful floral bouquet with candied lemon followed by honey-coated hazelnuts on the palate Worth cellaring for a few seasons The perfect dance partner for poultry CSPC +708589 $33

Viognier

Viognier is a white varietal that is best consumed at slightly higher temperatures A chilly glass of viognier will leave you with acid maybe oak and not much else Allow it to warm and you may experience peach pear and toasted almond

Traditionally grown in the warm south of France viognier is often a higher alcohol white wine with rich tropical flavours The heat of the alcohol with tropical flavours and lower acid makes viognier the perfect wine to sip while watching a late spring snowfall

Paul Mas 2014 Languedoc-Roussillon Viognier France Brimming with apricot almond lemon and ripe peach Contains hints of warming oak Pair with something savoury baked brie or spinach-filled puff pastry CSPC + 740978 $17

Dry Roseacute

There is so much more to be had from roseacute than white zinfandel And no itrsquos not just a mix of red and white wine The best roseacute is made from red skinned grapes that only sit on their skins for up to a day and a half to borrow colour and flavour then are fermented and processed

Refined examples of roseacute wines are often dry and have deep aromas of red fruits mild tannins and are savoury instead of sweet The French and Spanish craft great examples of dry roseacutes that are either a single varietal or a blend of grapes such as mourvegravedre grenache syrah or tempranillo

Muga Roseacute 2014 Rioja Grenache Viura and Tempranillo Spain A tamed Rioja Orange blossom woven together with strawberry and a palate of cherry and savoury soft cheese Ideal for charcuterie CSPC + 710261 $16

Orange Wine

Never heard of orange wine A commercial demand for natural wines has fostered a resurgence in ancient wine making practices While roseacute wines are reds that have been produced using white wine making practices orange wines are created from white grapes submitted to maceration and allowed to sit on the skins before fermentation the same practice employed in red winemaking

Unlike any white you have tasted orange wines are full-bodied have mild tannins and deep flavours - the characteristics that allow red wines to bring warmth to cool nights A must try for any wine buff

Allow the bottle a half hour on the counter

before popping the cork

The Bicicleta wines are characterized by their fruity expression and for offering more than

the traditional strains a clear example of this range`s innovation style and creativity

Cono Sur Vineyards amp Winery ConoSurVineyards ConoSurWinesconosurcom

The brewhouse at Wild Rose

Jaclynrsquos first passion was winemaking Shersquos worked in vineyards cellars and restaurants Currently she is a writer who daylights as an environmental engineer She believes that a good life like a good wine is not complete without balance

Nichol 2013 Naramata Pinot Gris Canada A Canadian example of orange wine with backbone Flavours of caramel apple roast nuts orange rind and peach CSPC +504159 $31

Oaked chardonnay

In and out with popular palates oak and chardonnay have been partners for a long time Oak paired with chardonnay can bring out butter richness toasted vanilla tree fruit and in the best examples shimmering minerality That is because oak aging is often accompanied by a malolactic fermentation process that smooths out rigid acids into lactic acid - the acid found in milk

Chardonnay is a grape of many talents and encounters a great diversity of production styles It is oaked examples that pair best with pensive rainy days They are full-bodied warming and complex

Wente Morning Fog 2014 Livermore Valley (California) Chardonnay USA Half oak-aged and malolactic-fermented half crisp and fresh this chardonnay brings together green apple vanilla and toasted oak A friend to cream sauce and roast chicken CSPC +175430 $18

In a province of mutable weather let your wine choices be as varied as the ever changing winds Cheers and herersquos to refined full-bodied cool-weather wines

38

Once yoursquore done with your magazine cover shoot like we did this month or prepping for dinner and have all of those odds and ends just sitting on the cutting board - you know carrot ends onion skins tips of celery stalks you get the point - donrsquot toss lsquoem

Instead place them into a large ziploc bag and straight into the freezer After a couple of weeks yoursquoll likely have four full freezer bags of vegetable bits ready to be turned into broth and herersquos how you do it

Making a big batch of vegetable broth doesnrsquot always mean a trip to the grocery store All you need to do is save those scraps This is a handy trick I learned years ago courtesy of Bon Appetit

No-Waste Vegetable Broth

by DAN CLAPSON

Odds And Ends BrothYields 8 cups (2 L)

12 cups (3 L) water4 full ziploc bags of vegetable trimmings1 yellow onion quartered4 cloves garlicAromatics of choice (I usually toss a couple of rosemary and thyme sprigs in there)To taste Salt and pepper

1 Place all ingredients in a large pot and bring to a boil on medium-high heat

2 Reduce to medium heat and let simmer uncovered for 1frac12 hours

3 Strain season to taste with salt and pepper and use as desired

Full circlePizza amp Oyster Bar

933 17 Ave SW bull fullcirclepizzaca

buck-a-shuck oysters

$1 oysters every night

9 pm - close Sunday-thursday 11 pm - close friday amp saturday

40

Salentein 2012 Reserve Chardonnay Uco Valley Argentina

Very very enjoyable chardonnay blowing me away with complexity varietal character and fine balance between oak lees and fruit Toffee baked apple tangerine and a little almond on the nose lead into silkily textured wine in the mouth Top shelf chardonnay that might be great with lobster tails mussels or poultry Around $20 CSPC +779479

Rutini 2013 Cabernet Malbec Mendoza Argentina

An exceptionally well put together blend - if you want rich berry fruits lots of body but maybe not tons of varietal characters from the individual components Lifted and bright fruits make for a very enjoyable glass Simply perfect for your next barbecue a roast or just chilling out with friends and family $26-30 CSPC +776822

Vinecol 2014 Organic Malbec Mendoza Argentina Fair Trade organic and vegan along with a good price is it still good Piles of fresh fruits (think smashed raspberries) with plenty of spice and soft herb-leaf aromas There are plenty of malbec flavours on the palate too Good for any day of the week with just a little tension between fruit tannin and acid it might be best with pub style burgers pulled pork or sausages About $16 CSPC +755296

Argentina is so much more than malbec While such a noble grape has found its best home in the high altitude vineyards of Argentina there is a lot going on with other grapes as well

Making The Case For Argentina

by TOM FIRTH

This massive country nestled up against the Andes mountains has a range of growing conditions suited to a number of grapes From Salta in the north to Patagonia in the south plenty of interesting wines are available here - many reasonably priced and of excellent quality So yes there are some

malbecs on these pages but please do try some of the other grapes and blends coming from Argentina too

Be sure to crack open a bottle of malbec on ldquoWorld Malbec Dayrdquo April 17 - who knows it might be nice enough to barbecue too

Photograph courtesy Tom Firth

41

Manos Negras 2011 Stone Soil Select Mendoza Argentina Quite new to the market this is a pretty enjoyable version of Argentinarsquos flagship grape Loads of blue fruit and raspberries with spices galore and a little compost Rich flavours lead to a lengthy spicy finish Yes please Bring to a barbecue if you can $21 CSPC +630541

Zuccardi 2012 Zeta Mendoza Argentina

A malbec-cabernet sauvignon blend that is also a blend of two different Mendoza appellations La Consulta and Gualtallary Deep and abundant fruit aromas with liquorice root and a touch of blueberry preserves Excellent balance of flavours on the palate too with the right structure and tannin for aging if desired Enjoy with a prime rib or even meaty pasta dishes or game $50-52 CSPC +740270

Zuccardi 2012 ldquoEmmardquo Bonarda Mendoza Argentina

In my humble opinion one of the finest bonardas coming out of Argentina Notes of coffee bean and espresso complement cherry and blackberry fruits with healthy balanced tannins to stand up to the tart fruits Delicious for sure enjoy at your next barbecue $40 CSPC +758407

Luigi Bosca 2011 Cabernet-Malbec Mendoza Argentina

A wonderfully earthy and savoury blend with plenty of tobacco spice leather and yes lots of fruit too The earthy flavours work well with the big dark chocolate flavours and weighty tannins Drink now or through 2020 or so - with a steak naturally $22-24 CSPC +766010

Trivento 2013 Golden Reserve Malbec Lujan de Cuyo Argentina While there is a trend to see a lot of premium malbecs move away from oak presence this one is a bold smooth and delicious example that is seeing about a year of oak All those berry fruits plums and herb notes malbec is known for along with the smoothness that only oak brings Kick back relax maybe cook up some steaks - enjoy About $24 CSPC +711402

Trivento 2014 Malbec Reserve Mendoza Argentina Nearly unbeatable for good malbec at a great price itrsquos rich and chocolatey on the nose with big fruits and oak tones too Mild garrigue notes or dried herb flavours with plenty of fruit and tannins - still showing a fine sense of balance Enjoy with beef $14 CSPC +730714

Luigi Bosca 2011 De Sangre Mendoza Argentina A blend of cabernet sauvignon merlot and syrah that manages to pull out the best of each varietal Earthy and slightly smoky with good fruits and plenty of versatility Tannins are well-placed against the fruits with a long smooth finish Irsquove been a fan of this wine year after year Good to keep a couple on hand in the cellar About $29 CSPC +745106

Salentein 2012 Numina Gran Corte Uco Valley Argentina A malbec-dominated Bordeaux blend this stunner is all about ripe fruits cedar pepper cherries and plum with a little tealeaf and the right amount of tannins Very very well balanced and like any great wine think about some food to go with it Beef tenderloin slow cooked meats or maybe at your next asadohellip About $40 CSPC +764706

Colonia Las Liebres 2013 Bonarda Mendoza Argentina Bear with me here - a fine bonarda with plenty of earthy smoky aromas leading to rubber charred cherries and cocoa Some pretty prominent tannins to be found as well but wow does it all come together A wine that just begs for duck with cranberries or maybe some kebabshellip$20 CSPC +773381

42

Open That Bottleby LINDA GARSON photography by INGRID KUENZEL

ldquoIf you work in a place and yoursquore miserable I donrsquot know if there is a dollar amount that can be attached to that The work that yoursquore doing has to be rewarding and challengingrdquo says Karen KhoGrowing up in Niagara Falls in a Philippino SpanishChinese family Kho was surrounded by food and drinks with an open door policy that has had a huge influence on the person she is today - an

entertainer who likes to make people feel welcome ldquoMy parents wanted me to be a lawyer there was definitely an encouragement to use my voice for goodrdquo she explains ldquoAnd I still think I help people but in a different way a very social wayrdquo

Graduating Western University with a political science degree in 2000 Kho spent a year travelling and living in Australia before taking a leap of faith and moving to Calgary Here she studied wine with the International Sommeliers Guild and WSET but says her real education was a job she adored working in the wine trade at BIN 905 in tandem with running wine programs for CRMR restaurants It was only when the opportunity came to create the wine program at Vin Room six years later that Kho leapt at the challenge of a new idea for the city and spent four happy years there

Eventually she and her partner decided to stretch their wings and went to Vancouver where Kho embarked on a six-month culinary course at the Pacific Institute of Culinary Arts ticking off another box on her bucket list ldquoI wanted a greater understanding of technique in the kitchen and I wanted an understanding of what service on a very basic level would look like if I ever owned my own place and ever had to be the person who filled inrdquo she says ldquoI feel if I was ever in a place that needed someone to chop onions Irsquom your womanrdquo she laughs

A year later the pair came back with the idea of eventually opening their own business in Calgary ldquoThe support we get from this community is heartfelt and this is a city of opportunity People with the right concept are seeing a lot of great success itrsquos still our game planrdquo she says Meanwhile Kho applied only to Teatro where she is now Group Service Director

ldquoI wanted to work at a place that had a challenging wine program and had a level of service with high expectations and where professional service teams

applyrdquo she says ldquoItrsquos pretty romantic to work for a company that has been built on a foundation of service Successful businesses in the restaurant industry get the grand picture which is the moments that yoursquore creating for people and I like to be a part of thatrdquo she adds

So what bottle is Kho saving for a special occasion

Paying homage to her time at BIN 905 Kho explains ldquoI have a bottle of 1996 Chateau Mouton Rothschild which was given to me with some very kind words on my last day at BIN Irsquove always just appreciated my time there it was where I learned the vernacular of wine and itrsquos my first job where I really saw the benefits of serving people with intentionrdquo She continues ldquoI always see it thankfully as the stepping-stone to a broader wine profession and eventually to the position that I have now It was given to me by very close friends that Irsquom still friends with to this dayrdquo

And when is she planning to open the wine

ldquoWhen (partner) Dave and I open our own restaurantrdquo Kho says This isnrsquot something that something that will happen tomorrow but fortunately the wine will last until theyrsquore ready

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24

Having good quality kitchen equipment will

make your life easier

Anna Brooks is an award-winning journalist from Calgary Alberta She has worked internationally in Thailand and Africa and has been published in Metro BeatRoute Magazine and the Calgary Journal She also enjoys animal rights fantasy fiction and whiskey sours

Tips and TricksOf course you can adorn your kitchen with the countless others belonging to the knife family mdash cleavers carvers boning knives cheese knives etc mdash but if yoursquore not planning on hacking through solid bone anytime soon you probably donrsquot need to spend $200 on a meat cleaver

But there are some other knife-related implements that are important to have in your kitchen

First off a proper cutting board While plastic cutting boards are versatile and can be chucked in the dishwasher wood is really the best way to go Cutting boards are the quickest way to ruin a knife so steer clear of fancy-looking glass or granite boards mdash they are the antagonists of our story

Itrsquos also not a bad idea to have a knife honer on hand As a reminder (or for

those who had no idea what that random rod in the kitchen was used for) honers are for honing not sharpening

ldquoWith use the metal fibres in a knife edge can get bent to one side or another All yoursquore doing with honing is straightening those fibres back outrdquo Johnson from The Cookbook Co explained ldquoSharpening means yoursquore actually removing material and grinding the metal down to a finer edgerdquo

Johnson added that while you can sharpen at home she always recommends getting your knives sharpened professionally at least once a year depending on how much theyare used

Before you go back to making your lazy-day grilled cheese sandwich or that complex stew yoursquove spent hours on we just want to remind you of whatrsquos called ldquothe pinch griprdquo

Not to sound snobbish but grabbing a knife by the handle and hacking away is poor form Use your thumb and index finger to grasp the blade and then wrap your remaining fingers under the bolster of the knife Shape your other hand into a claw to protect your fingertips from accidentally getting lopped off firmly grasp the object to be cut and slice away

If this knowledge was present in the 17th century perhaps old King Louis XIV would be tipping his crown to more cooks not kitchen knife combatants

25

Times Are A Changing Unexpected Take-Outs

by LINDA GARSON and DIANA NG photography by INGRID KUENZEL

Therersquos no denying that many of our cityrsquos restaurants are feeling the effects of the current economic downturn fewer people working downtown ndash indeed fewer people working altogether and so looking to save money by eating out less means many bricks and mortar restaurants are having to get creative with ways to fully utilise their kitchens and staff

High rents exacerbate the situation so itrsquos time for Calgary restaurateurs to think outside the box and proving to be the innovative entrepreneurs that wersquore known for many are diversifying their offerings to include take-out options both raw and cooked

Catch amp The Oyster Bar launched their ldquoBuy Catchrdquo program where you can pick up fresh Ocean Wise seafood to take home and cook (complete with recipes) along with house-made clam chowder and sauces nearly two years ago There are big savings to be had over dining in with no costs for linen or staff and no expectation to tip

Here are four Calgary eateries also getting clever with take-out

programs that are not widely publicised - and may

open a few eyes

26

Centini Restaurant

Itrsquos not a cookie cutter program but the magic of Centinirsquos take-out is that you can ask the kitchen for ideas of what you should have for dinner People even text the servers for suggestions and to order Loyal customers mostly busy businessmen were asking if they catered but without the staff for such a service Centini started offering to prepare dishes for them to cook themselves

Now you can get your favourite restaurant dishes from rack of lamb with red wine demi-glace AAA Alberta beef tenderloin with Gorgonzola pan sauce and sea bass with ginger cream sauce ready to cook at home ldquoWersquore not going to open a bricks and mortar restaurant down south but our food is going thererdquo says Chevonne Centini Theyrsquore seeing pick-ups such as for people stuck at home with a new baby and even 40 people for a funeral

Boxwood

Itrsquos hard to believe that the quality of food coming from the sister restaurant to River Cafe can be had at home and we are not talking about leftovers When

People take home uncooked homemade pasta with sauce separately and even bread dough and often freeze it to cook later or pick up on a Friday evening so everything is prepared ready for Saturday dinner When buying from a restaurant yoursquore getting top quality perfectly trimmed meat everything is done for you - therersquos no shopping

around and even the parsley is chopped And as everything is custom-made all allergies are catered for too

Centini gets fish delivered once or twice every day and it may come as a surprise but with a chef garde manger that spent 15 years in Japan they have customers coming just to take out sushi

you go home to an empty fridge it feels like the only options you have are fast food or pizza Not so

Boxwoodrsquos fresh and seasonal fare is also available to take home While you wonrsquot

be able to enjoy the quaint atmosphere of the restaurant you can order anything on the menu for take out with its special offering being the whole rotisserie free-range chicken which serves two to four people for $40

Many bricks and mortar restaurants are

having to get creative with ways to fully utilise their

kitchens and staff

You will need to call a few hours ahead (the website states before 200 pm) for enough notice for the chicken but for the rest of the selection like its soups and sandwiches you can simply look up the menu online and call to place an order For a perfect night in may we suggest starting with its bison tartare then moving onto the porchetta and another main before finishing off the meal with a slice of pie

27

Gaucho

For most people the elaborate setup of Brazilian barbecue is one of its biggest attractions You may not know this and while you may not be able to take home the lively decor of Gaucho you can actually take the meal home

The spit packed tightly with freshly roasted meats the sign at the table that signals yoursquore ready for more and the roasted and caramelized pineapple that tops off the meal all contribute to the atmosphere but if all you want are the meats and sides for a hefty dinner you can certainly order the meal as a take-out

Order any of the four options (top sirloin pork loin chicken wings or mild sausage) and add three sides from the list of eight which includes a variety of salads black bean stew and rice And because you canrsquot just have one kind of meat when it comes to Brazilian barbecue you can choose additional

Safari Grill

The marinated thinly sliced BBQ short beef ribs at Safari Grill are already a must-have for those in the know but we suspect even regulars will be surprised to discover that you can pick

up uncooked ribs with your choice of seven marinades to take home and BBQ yourself

With none of the associated costs of dining in $65 buys you enough ribs for 10 people and customers actually drive

meats for $4 each Finally choose the sauce yoursquod like to accompany your meal Orders for over five people will come in a big white box and individual

orders come will in regular take-out containers For big parties do call a few hours ahead All you need to make at home is the caipirinha

from Saskatchewan to take away 10-15 lb bags of these uncooked marinated ribs Some people call and ask for them to be marinated and frozen in 5 lb bags to enjoy later as just 5-7 minutes each side on a high flame has the raw ribs ready to eat

And itrsquos not only ribs that people BBQ at home Mishkaki are skewers of marinated chicken beef and prawns and for as little as $3 each you can have a very inexpensive BBQ feast Marinated raw lamb chops are also available or ask for Samaki - a marinated whole tilapia that comes with a basting sauce to brush on You can even get uncooked samosas to cook in your oven at home

All Safari Grillrsquos regular menu can be ordered for take-out but there is no published price list for uncooked dishes so people call to order and ask - but when yoursquore picking up look out for the new jars of house-made mango and lemon pickles

28

Step By Step Go Nuts With Homemade Nutella And Waffles story and photography by NATALIE FINDLAY

There are many nutritional benefits packed into these small filberts They are rich in dietary fibre packed with folate an excellent source of vitamin E and contain mono-unsaturated fatty acids that

can help lower bad cholesterol and raise good cholesterol By making your own Nutella at home you can control the amount of sugar that is added making this delicious spread basicallyhellip a health food

Hazelnuts have a tried and true following for taking the lead role in the chocolate spread Nutella This long-standing love affair has lasted simply because they add a distinct but subtle flavour to the chocolate Truly a match that is better together than apart

These delicious and super-easy waffles make a great base for your homemade Nutella With the addition of ground hazelnuts to the batter you can deepen the hazelnut flavour and pack in more health benefits

Waffles with raspberries and white chocolate spread

29

Natalie is a freelance writer photographer and pastry chef A graduate of Cordon Bleursquos pastry program she manages her own business too to create custom-made cakes

Using the same waffle recipe from above and switching out the mashed banana and adding frac12 a medium orange ndash juice and zest ndash to the batter you have a delicious orange waffle that will highlight the white chocolate hazelnut spread recipe below

Homemade White Chocolate Hazelnut Spread Makes 1frac12 cups

1frac12 cups (200 g) whole hazelnutsfrac12 cup (70 g) icing sugar2 Tbs (30 mL) canola oil1 tsp (5 mL) vanilla extract1 cup (250g) white chocolate

Follow directions for Homemade Nutella and add the melted white chocolate at the end Pulse to combine

Macerated Raspberries with Orange Serves 6

250 g fresh raspberriesfrac12 medium orange zest and juice1 Tbs icing sugarfrac12 tsp vanilla extract

Add all ingredients into a medium bowl and stir to combine Let sit for about 1 hour

Serve your warm waffles topped with your white chocolate homemade hazelnut spread macerated berries and a dollop of whipped cream or ice cream

Note Homemade Nutella has more texture than store bought and will last around 1 month in the fridge Waffles can be made ahead and frozen Thaw and reheat in the waffle maker or the oven

Banana Fruit compoteMakes enough for 6

3 ripe bananas peeled sliced into rounds2 Tbs (30 g) butter2 Tbs (30 g) brown sugar1frac12 tsp (8 mL) vanilla extract1frac12 tsp (8 mL) bourbon

1 Add butter and sugar to a sauteacute pan over medium heat As they melt stir to combine

2 Add vanilla and bourbon than add sliced bananas and sauteacute until warmed through

Serve your warm waffles topped with your homemade hazelnut spread sauteacuteed bananas and a dollop of whipped cream or ice cream

Homemade Nutella Makes 1frac12 cups

1frac12 cups (200 g) whole hazelnutsfrac34 cup (100g) icing sugar3 Tbs (45 mL) canola oilfrac14 cup (30 g) cocoa powder1 tsp (5 mL) vanilla extract

1 Toast hazelnuts on a baking pan in a preheated 350ordm F oven for 10 - 15 minutes Keep an eye on them to make sure they donrsquot start to burn Remove from oven and let cool to the touch

2 Wrap the nuts in a kitchen towel and rub together to remove the skins This should remove most of the skins

3 Place skinless hazelnuts in a food processor on high Process the nuts until they form a smooth paste and the oils start to separate (about 5 minutes) scraping the bowl often

4 Add the icing sugar cocoa powder vanilla and canola oil to the food processor and process until fully incorporated scraping bowl of processor as needed (about 2 minutes)

Hazelnut Banana WafflesMakes 6

frac12 cup (80 g) all purpose flour1 tsp baking powderfrac12 tsp baking sodaPinch sea salt1 Tbs (15 g) icing sugar1 Tbs (10 g) ground hazelnuts6 grates whole nutmeg1 tsp ground cinnamonfrac12 cup (125 mL) buttermilk1 egg yolk2 Tbs (30 g) butter meltedfrac12 small banana peeled and mashed1 egg white

1 Sift together all dry ingredients (except the ground hazelnuts) in a medium bowl Add the ground hazelnuts and combine

2 Mash the half banana in a small bowl with a fork Add the egg buttermilk and melted butter

3 Whisk the egg white to stiff peaks

4 Whisk the wet ingredients into the dry and fold the egg white into the mixture

5 Follow the directions for your waffle pan to cook waffles for around 5 minutes or until cooked through

Note Remember to bring the waffle pan up to temperature in between each batch of waffles

Hazelnut Banana Waffles with Nutella

30

Citrus Beer Friendsby DAVID NUTTALL

This is when the taste andor aroma of a beer can remind the drinker of anything from an orange drink or lemonade to grapefruit soda There are several ways to achieve this character and these beers are becoming more and more popular every day

Hops provide the bitterness in beer and out of the literally hundreds of varieties a few impart citrus notes into the aroma and flavour Cascade and Citra are examples of two of the most popular hops used in several styles of beer most notably the American IPA or India Pale Ale Cascade hops have been around for over 40 years and it is the single most popular hop used by the American craft brewing industry It provides a floralspicy character often reminiscent of grapefruit

Citrarsquos name leaves no guessing as to its attributes A relative newcomer this cross breed of UK German and US hop varieties has been around for less than a decade but it is already an extremely popular hop for imparting

One of the great things about beer is its diversity It can come in a myriad of colours and also a wide variety of flavours citrus being one of the most distinct

Dave Nuttall has been in the liquor and event business forever He is a qualified beer judge and ownerpresident of Epicurean Calgary at epicureancalgarycom for ten years

citrus and tropical fruit characteristics to a beer

It has proven very versatile and appears in several beer styles from session ales to IPAs It has also become a favourite hop to use for dry-hopping (adding hops late into the boil) due to the exceptional aromas it produces For even more flavour and aroma craft brewers now commonly enhance these already citrusy IPAs with actual zest peel or juice from citrus fruits to create an IPAFruit Beer hybrid which sells especially well in summer months

Then there is the yeast and many varieties of yeast can produce citrusy esters The unfiltered hefeweizens brewed on both sides of the Atlantic quite often have a lemony flavour Sour beers also showcase the yeast often cultured from Belgian strains

These beers are tart and produce a gamut of flavours many with citrus qualities and some have added fruit - the easiest and most obvious way to create a citrusy beer The Belgians also add different kinds of oranges with spice additions to their wheat ales to create wit beers now emulated all over the world with different citrus (and other) fruits involved in the recipe We also canrsquot forget the radlers which are simply a lager beer mixed with 40-60 fruit juice - often grapefruit or lemonade

Whether itrsquos added fruit the yeast the hops or a combination of all of them citrusy beers are commonplace now Thanks to new hops like Citra and the increasing popularity of wits and sours we can expect this trend to continue

Here are a few local beers with hints of citrus All are also available on tap

Beer comes in a myriad of colours and flavours citrus being one of the

most distinct

Ribstone Creek Great White CombineThis tiny Edgerton Alberta brewery has been knocking it out of the park lately Named after the ubiquitous Alberta summer hailstorm the use of Belgian yeast sweet orange peel and coriander give this beer an orange flavour in the beginning When the four different hop additions kick in it changes more to a sweet lemony flavour This White IPA has a very tropical feel that makes you forget it was made in northern Alberta CSPC +774162 $16 6-pack cans

Wild Rose Cowbell Sour ales are the new Belle of the Ball at craft breweries Often using imported Belgian yeast strains they are tart tangy and wellhellip sour Calgaryrsquos Wild Rose has taken this flavour profile and added kaffir lime leaves This makes the beer more like a refreshing limeade and is less bitter than many of its other sour counterparts CSPC +778093 $17 6-pack bottles

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Citradelic Single Hop IPA Big Rock BreweryWith breweries in two (soon to be three) provinces Big Rock now has multiple locations to develop new beers This is the first one from their Vancouver brewery and is full of lemongrapefruit flavours and tropical aromas This beer showcases the Citra hop fooling one to think that citrus has been added when itrsquos all thanks to the hop CSPC +778593 $15 6-pack bottles

Alley Kat Main SqueezeWhat started out as a summer seasonal has now become a mainstay of this Edmonton brewery A North American style wheat ale with a 50 wheat and 50 barley mix it has added grapefruit juice but tastes more along the lines of pink grapefruit rather than its more bitter cousin CSPC +733630 $17 6-pack bottles

32

story by RENEE KOHLMAN

Cheesecake is one of those classic desserts that almost everyone loves unless of course you have a dairy allergy then yoursquoll stay far far away from it While it may seem too complicated to make at home I assure you that itrsquos not

Spice it up cheesecake

Sure there are a few steps involved but the key thing to remember is to have your eggs and cream cheese at room temperature For the best crack-free cheesecake itrsquos best to bake it in a water bath It yields a light creamy texture and is well worth the effort Cheesecake always tastes better the next day so bake it the day before you want to serve it Now that wersquove got the basics down itrsquos time to have a little fun with the crust filling and toppings

The Base

The classic graham cracker crust is fine but every now and again itrsquos great to switch things up Try

ndash Grinding up ginger cookies They work especially well for a pumpkin cheesecake

ndash Chocolate cookie crumbs are fantastic for caramel peanut butter and raspberry cheesecakes

ndash Add finely chopped nuts oats or seeds to the cookie crumbs for added texture and taste

The Middle

Therersquos something to be said for a straight up vanilla or chocolate cheesecake but with some fun add-ins they could take your cheesecake to the next level of deliciousness Try

ndash Swirling tahini dulce de leche salted caramel or chocolate fudge sauce into a creamy vanilla filling

ndash Mix in chopped chocolate peanut butter cups to a chocolate filling

ndash Drop fresh berries (raspberries blueberries blackberries) on top of a vanilla filling

ndash Stir in chopped candied ginger dried cherries or cranberries chopped toasted nuts to the filling

ndash Swap some of the cream cheese with ricotta mascarpone cheese or even strained cottage cheese

ndash You can never go wrong with lemon zest in a vanilla cheesecake

Have a little fun with the crust filling

and toppings

33

Apple Crumble CheesecakeMakes about 12-14 servings Total cook and prep time 3 hours (plus overnight chilling)

I love apple crisp and I love cheesecake This recipe is a fine marriage of both and makes a more than acceptable breakfast The base is a crumble of oats and flour the middle is classic cheesecake and itrsquos topped with cinnamon apples and a buttery oat streusel

Crust 2 cups large flake oats1 cup all purpose flour cup packed brown sugarfrac34 cup butter meltedfrac12 tsp salt

Cheesecake Layer3 - 225 g packages cream cheese at room temperature cup granulated sugar1 tsp (5 mL) vanilla3 large eggs at room temperature cup (80 mL) whipping cream

Apple Layer2 apples peeled cored and sliced about 3-4 mm thick1 tsp ground cinnamonfrac12 tsp salt

Streusel Layer1 cup large flake oatsfrac12 cup all-purpose flourfrac12 cup brown sugarfrac12 cup butter softened1 tsp ground cinnamon

Preheat the oven to 375ordm F

1 Butter the bottom and sides of a 9-inch springform pan with sides that are at least 7 cm high Wrap the bottom of the pan in aluminum foil so it comes at least halfway up the sides

2 Combine the crust ingredients in a large bowl Press the crust evenly into the pan and place on a baking sheet Bake for 10 minutes Remove from oven and let it cool on a wire rack

3 Reduce heat to 325ordm F Put a kettle of water on to boil Have a large roasting pan close by

4 Using a stand mixer with a paddle attachment beat the cream cheese at medium speed for 4 minutes scraping down the sides once or twice until it is soft and creamy With the mixer still running add the sugar and beat for another 4 minutes scraping down the sides of the bowl at least twice Beat in the vanilla Add the eggs one at a time beating for 1 minute after each addition and scraping the bowl Reduce speed to low and add the whipping cream

5 Toss the sliced apples with the cinnamon and salt in a small bowl Combine all of the streusel ingredients in a medium bowl and mix well

6 Place the springform pan in the roasting pan Give the cheesecake batter a good stir and pour it on top of the crust Arrange the apples on top and sprinkle the streusel on top of the apples

7 Place in the oven on the middle rack and pour the hot water into the roasting pan so it comes halfway up the sides of the springform pan

8 Bake the cheesecake for 1frac12 hours Turn off the heat prop open the oven door and let the cheesecake hang inside for another hour

9 Carefully remove from the oven and take out the cheesecake from the hot water bath Remove the foil and let the cheesecake come to room temperature on a wire rack Cover the top lightly and refrigerate for at least 4 hours but overnight is best The next day remove the sides of the pan and serve the cake

Renee is a food writer and pastry chef living in beautiful Saskatoon Saskatchewan Her columns appear in The Saskatoon StarPhoenix and her desserts can be enjoyed at Riverside Country Club Also check out her blog wwwsweetsugarbeancom

The Toppings

Cheesecake with no fun toppings is like a salad with no dressing it just doesnrsquot reach its full flavour potential Try

ndash Salted caramel roasted strawberry sauce or warm chocolate sauce

ndash A rhubarbcardamom compote is divine on top of vanilla cheesecake kissed with a bit of lemon zest Cherry compote is divine with chocolate cheesecake

ndash Have a favourite jam Melt it down with a tiny bit of water and drizzle it on top of your favourite cheesecake

ndash Candied nuts and citrus rind chocolate shavings even crumbled cookies are a fun way to add texture to the cheesecake

ndash Never underestimate the power of fresh seasonal berries and a well-made cheesecakeMacerate them in a little sugar and minced mint or basil and they make a lovely topping Donrsquot forget the whipped cream

34

Think about that for a moment and let that sink in like a cherry in your drink

So how old is ice in bars Well thatrsquos a whole story on its own however the Old Fashioned has been talked about in one form or another since the beginning of the 19th Century The first appearance of this classic cocktail was in the Balance and Columbian Repository newspaper in 1806 as such ldquoA stimulating liquor composed of spirits of any kind sugar water and bittersrdquo

The Old FashionedAn Iconic Drink That Has Stood The Test Of Time

by BRICE PERESSINI

Sohelliphow old is the Old Fashioned The Old Fashioned is as old as ice in bars

When you follow these instructions and put this finely-crafted cocktail into your hand swirl around the ice gaze through the caramel-coloured liquid in the glass and contemplate all that has gone into it you can rest assured you are holding a drink that has delighted taste buds for generations The Old Fashioned however has not always been held in high regard There was a time not too long ago where this fine concoction was an unbalanced fruity watered-down pale imitation of itself More recently

there has been a renaissance involved with this invigorating intoxicant and you can and should expect a proper cocktail when it is ordered at a fine establishment

When this drink is properly prepared it should be in perfect balance (as any proper drink should be) The sweetness of the sugar should not cover the flavour of the bourbon and the bitters should add to not overpower the flavour of the whiskey When the Old Fashioned is well made it is as close to cocktail perfection as a sophisticated patron could expect

Befriend a bespoke barkeep at an upstanding establishment and you will be in trusted hands If you find yourself at home and wanting for a nightcap look no further than the Old Fashioned

Enjoy friends

Old Fashioned Recipe

2 oz Buffalo Trace Bourbon (or your personal favourite)4 dashes Angostura Aromatic Bitters1 raw sugar cube

Muddle the sugar and bitters together with a touch of warm water in a rocks glass Add the bourbon then add ice Stir and garnish with an orange peel and cherry (optional)

Brice is a competition cocktail bartender who plies his trade behind the wood at Chefbar Whisk(e)y is his poison Neat

35

Shoulder Season Wines

by JACLYN ADOMEIT

Wines For Cool Weather

Refreshing white wines match with sunny patios and hot days while bold tannic red wines earn their keep by a fireplace on a winter night Common sense But what about the shoulder season What if yoursquore eating sea bass on a rainy spring day Or sipping wine on a patio during an uncommonly warm April afternoon

Photograph courtesy Tom Firth

36

Wine not only pairs with food but with temperatures and seasons A bright sauvignon blanc can taste flat and acidic on a cold night at no fault of the wine or the drinker Some white wines are other-worldly at the vineyard tasting room in the summer but fall flat when you pull them out for dinner guests in the winter

The change in taste is likely due to a number of factors Anatomically it is your sinus cavities creating the change Higher atmospheric pressures allow your nose to pick out subtle aromas while lower pressures bring out a winersquos acidity and harsh tannins CO2 degasses from liquid at low pressure leaving wines dull and flat too

Serving temperature can greatly affect a winersquos aromatics white wines chilled to near-freezing have dull aromas (Tip allow the bottle a half hour on the counter before popping the cork This will allow the aromatics to warm up enhancing the flavour)

Lastly your own palate will be partial to different flavours depending on sun snow wind and sleet but as a rule of thumb higher alcohol white wines (approximately 13 percent or more) will warm the soul and pair best with cooler weather

Here are some wine selections to go for when it is not too hot and not too cold so you can choose a pairing thatrsquos just right

Fiano

Yoursquoll notice that many of the best white wines for cold weather are grown in hot places Hot climates mean a longer growing season more sugar which leads to higher alcohol and often more robust and tropical flavours All of this is true for fiano - seldom grown outside of Campania in southern Italy Fiano produces age-worthy wines which are rich nutty and delicious

Feudi Di San Gregorio 2014 Campania Fiano di Avellino Italy A beautiful floral bouquet with candied lemon followed by honey-coated hazelnuts on the palate Worth cellaring for a few seasons The perfect dance partner for poultry CSPC +708589 $33

Viognier

Viognier is a white varietal that is best consumed at slightly higher temperatures A chilly glass of viognier will leave you with acid maybe oak and not much else Allow it to warm and you may experience peach pear and toasted almond

Traditionally grown in the warm south of France viognier is often a higher alcohol white wine with rich tropical flavours The heat of the alcohol with tropical flavours and lower acid makes viognier the perfect wine to sip while watching a late spring snowfall

Paul Mas 2014 Languedoc-Roussillon Viognier France Brimming with apricot almond lemon and ripe peach Contains hints of warming oak Pair with something savoury baked brie or spinach-filled puff pastry CSPC + 740978 $17

Dry Roseacute

There is so much more to be had from roseacute than white zinfandel And no itrsquos not just a mix of red and white wine The best roseacute is made from red skinned grapes that only sit on their skins for up to a day and a half to borrow colour and flavour then are fermented and processed

Refined examples of roseacute wines are often dry and have deep aromas of red fruits mild tannins and are savoury instead of sweet The French and Spanish craft great examples of dry roseacutes that are either a single varietal or a blend of grapes such as mourvegravedre grenache syrah or tempranillo

Muga Roseacute 2014 Rioja Grenache Viura and Tempranillo Spain A tamed Rioja Orange blossom woven together with strawberry and a palate of cherry and savoury soft cheese Ideal for charcuterie CSPC + 710261 $16

Orange Wine

Never heard of orange wine A commercial demand for natural wines has fostered a resurgence in ancient wine making practices While roseacute wines are reds that have been produced using white wine making practices orange wines are created from white grapes submitted to maceration and allowed to sit on the skins before fermentation the same practice employed in red winemaking

Unlike any white you have tasted orange wines are full-bodied have mild tannins and deep flavours - the characteristics that allow red wines to bring warmth to cool nights A must try for any wine buff

Allow the bottle a half hour on the counter

before popping the cork

The Bicicleta wines are characterized by their fruity expression and for offering more than

the traditional strains a clear example of this range`s innovation style and creativity

Cono Sur Vineyards amp Winery ConoSurVineyards ConoSurWinesconosurcom

The brewhouse at Wild Rose

Jaclynrsquos first passion was winemaking Shersquos worked in vineyards cellars and restaurants Currently she is a writer who daylights as an environmental engineer She believes that a good life like a good wine is not complete without balance

Nichol 2013 Naramata Pinot Gris Canada A Canadian example of orange wine with backbone Flavours of caramel apple roast nuts orange rind and peach CSPC +504159 $31

Oaked chardonnay

In and out with popular palates oak and chardonnay have been partners for a long time Oak paired with chardonnay can bring out butter richness toasted vanilla tree fruit and in the best examples shimmering minerality That is because oak aging is often accompanied by a malolactic fermentation process that smooths out rigid acids into lactic acid - the acid found in milk

Chardonnay is a grape of many talents and encounters a great diversity of production styles It is oaked examples that pair best with pensive rainy days They are full-bodied warming and complex

Wente Morning Fog 2014 Livermore Valley (California) Chardonnay USA Half oak-aged and malolactic-fermented half crisp and fresh this chardonnay brings together green apple vanilla and toasted oak A friend to cream sauce and roast chicken CSPC +175430 $18

In a province of mutable weather let your wine choices be as varied as the ever changing winds Cheers and herersquos to refined full-bodied cool-weather wines

38

Once yoursquore done with your magazine cover shoot like we did this month or prepping for dinner and have all of those odds and ends just sitting on the cutting board - you know carrot ends onion skins tips of celery stalks you get the point - donrsquot toss lsquoem

Instead place them into a large ziploc bag and straight into the freezer After a couple of weeks yoursquoll likely have four full freezer bags of vegetable bits ready to be turned into broth and herersquos how you do it

Making a big batch of vegetable broth doesnrsquot always mean a trip to the grocery store All you need to do is save those scraps This is a handy trick I learned years ago courtesy of Bon Appetit

No-Waste Vegetable Broth

by DAN CLAPSON

Odds And Ends BrothYields 8 cups (2 L)

12 cups (3 L) water4 full ziploc bags of vegetable trimmings1 yellow onion quartered4 cloves garlicAromatics of choice (I usually toss a couple of rosemary and thyme sprigs in there)To taste Salt and pepper

1 Place all ingredients in a large pot and bring to a boil on medium-high heat

2 Reduce to medium heat and let simmer uncovered for 1frac12 hours

3 Strain season to taste with salt and pepper and use as desired

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9 pm - close Sunday-thursday 11 pm - close friday amp saturday

40

Salentein 2012 Reserve Chardonnay Uco Valley Argentina

Very very enjoyable chardonnay blowing me away with complexity varietal character and fine balance between oak lees and fruit Toffee baked apple tangerine and a little almond on the nose lead into silkily textured wine in the mouth Top shelf chardonnay that might be great with lobster tails mussels or poultry Around $20 CSPC +779479

Rutini 2013 Cabernet Malbec Mendoza Argentina

An exceptionally well put together blend - if you want rich berry fruits lots of body but maybe not tons of varietal characters from the individual components Lifted and bright fruits make for a very enjoyable glass Simply perfect for your next barbecue a roast or just chilling out with friends and family $26-30 CSPC +776822

Vinecol 2014 Organic Malbec Mendoza Argentina Fair Trade organic and vegan along with a good price is it still good Piles of fresh fruits (think smashed raspberries) with plenty of spice and soft herb-leaf aromas There are plenty of malbec flavours on the palate too Good for any day of the week with just a little tension between fruit tannin and acid it might be best with pub style burgers pulled pork or sausages About $16 CSPC +755296

Argentina is so much more than malbec While such a noble grape has found its best home in the high altitude vineyards of Argentina there is a lot going on with other grapes as well

Making The Case For Argentina

by TOM FIRTH

This massive country nestled up against the Andes mountains has a range of growing conditions suited to a number of grapes From Salta in the north to Patagonia in the south plenty of interesting wines are available here - many reasonably priced and of excellent quality So yes there are some

malbecs on these pages but please do try some of the other grapes and blends coming from Argentina too

Be sure to crack open a bottle of malbec on ldquoWorld Malbec Dayrdquo April 17 - who knows it might be nice enough to barbecue too

Photograph courtesy Tom Firth

41

Manos Negras 2011 Stone Soil Select Mendoza Argentina Quite new to the market this is a pretty enjoyable version of Argentinarsquos flagship grape Loads of blue fruit and raspberries with spices galore and a little compost Rich flavours lead to a lengthy spicy finish Yes please Bring to a barbecue if you can $21 CSPC +630541

Zuccardi 2012 Zeta Mendoza Argentina

A malbec-cabernet sauvignon blend that is also a blend of two different Mendoza appellations La Consulta and Gualtallary Deep and abundant fruit aromas with liquorice root and a touch of blueberry preserves Excellent balance of flavours on the palate too with the right structure and tannin for aging if desired Enjoy with a prime rib or even meaty pasta dishes or game $50-52 CSPC +740270

Zuccardi 2012 ldquoEmmardquo Bonarda Mendoza Argentina

In my humble opinion one of the finest bonardas coming out of Argentina Notes of coffee bean and espresso complement cherry and blackberry fruits with healthy balanced tannins to stand up to the tart fruits Delicious for sure enjoy at your next barbecue $40 CSPC +758407

Luigi Bosca 2011 Cabernet-Malbec Mendoza Argentina

A wonderfully earthy and savoury blend with plenty of tobacco spice leather and yes lots of fruit too The earthy flavours work well with the big dark chocolate flavours and weighty tannins Drink now or through 2020 or so - with a steak naturally $22-24 CSPC +766010

Trivento 2013 Golden Reserve Malbec Lujan de Cuyo Argentina While there is a trend to see a lot of premium malbecs move away from oak presence this one is a bold smooth and delicious example that is seeing about a year of oak All those berry fruits plums and herb notes malbec is known for along with the smoothness that only oak brings Kick back relax maybe cook up some steaks - enjoy About $24 CSPC +711402

Trivento 2014 Malbec Reserve Mendoza Argentina Nearly unbeatable for good malbec at a great price itrsquos rich and chocolatey on the nose with big fruits and oak tones too Mild garrigue notes or dried herb flavours with plenty of fruit and tannins - still showing a fine sense of balance Enjoy with beef $14 CSPC +730714

Luigi Bosca 2011 De Sangre Mendoza Argentina A blend of cabernet sauvignon merlot and syrah that manages to pull out the best of each varietal Earthy and slightly smoky with good fruits and plenty of versatility Tannins are well-placed against the fruits with a long smooth finish Irsquove been a fan of this wine year after year Good to keep a couple on hand in the cellar About $29 CSPC +745106

Salentein 2012 Numina Gran Corte Uco Valley Argentina A malbec-dominated Bordeaux blend this stunner is all about ripe fruits cedar pepper cherries and plum with a little tealeaf and the right amount of tannins Very very well balanced and like any great wine think about some food to go with it Beef tenderloin slow cooked meats or maybe at your next asadohellip About $40 CSPC +764706

Colonia Las Liebres 2013 Bonarda Mendoza Argentina Bear with me here - a fine bonarda with plenty of earthy smoky aromas leading to rubber charred cherries and cocoa Some pretty prominent tannins to be found as well but wow does it all come together A wine that just begs for duck with cranberries or maybe some kebabshellip$20 CSPC +773381

42

Open That Bottleby LINDA GARSON photography by INGRID KUENZEL

ldquoIf you work in a place and yoursquore miserable I donrsquot know if there is a dollar amount that can be attached to that The work that yoursquore doing has to be rewarding and challengingrdquo says Karen KhoGrowing up in Niagara Falls in a Philippino SpanishChinese family Kho was surrounded by food and drinks with an open door policy that has had a huge influence on the person she is today - an

entertainer who likes to make people feel welcome ldquoMy parents wanted me to be a lawyer there was definitely an encouragement to use my voice for goodrdquo she explains ldquoAnd I still think I help people but in a different way a very social wayrdquo

Graduating Western University with a political science degree in 2000 Kho spent a year travelling and living in Australia before taking a leap of faith and moving to Calgary Here she studied wine with the International Sommeliers Guild and WSET but says her real education was a job she adored working in the wine trade at BIN 905 in tandem with running wine programs for CRMR restaurants It was only when the opportunity came to create the wine program at Vin Room six years later that Kho leapt at the challenge of a new idea for the city and spent four happy years there

Eventually she and her partner decided to stretch their wings and went to Vancouver where Kho embarked on a six-month culinary course at the Pacific Institute of Culinary Arts ticking off another box on her bucket list ldquoI wanted a greater understanding of technique in the kitchen and I wanted an understanding of what service on a very basic level would look like if I ever owned my own place and ever had to be the person who filled inrdquo she says ldquoI feel if I was ever in a place that needed someone to chop onions Irsquom your womanrdquo she laughs

A year later the pair came back with the idea of eventually opening their own business in Calgary ldquoThe support we get from this community is heartfelt and this is a city of opportunity People with the right concept are seeing a lot of great success itrsquos still our game planrdquo she says Meanwhile Kho applied only to Teatro where she is now Group Service Director

ldquoI wanted to work at a place that had a challenging wine program and had a level of service with high expectations and where professional service teams

applyrdquo she says ldquoItrsquos pretty romantic to work for a company that has been built on a foundation of service Successful businesses in the restaurant industry get the grand picture which is the moments that yoursquore creating for people and I like to be a part of thatrdquo she adds

So what bottle is Kho saving for a special occasion

Paying homage to her time at BIN 905 Kho explains ldquoI have a bottle of 1996 Chateau Mouton Rothschild which was given to me with some very kind words on my last day at BIN Irsquove always just appreciated my time there it was where I learned the vernacular of wine and itrsquos my first job where I really saw the benefits of serving people with intentionrdquo She continues ldquoI always see it thankfully as the stepping-stone to a broader wine profession and eventually to the position that I have now It was given to me by very close friends that Irsquom still friends with to this dayrdquo

And when is she planning to open the wine

ldquoWhen (partner) Dave and I open our own restaurantrdquo Kho says This isnrsquot something that something that will happen tomorrow but fortunately the wine will last until theyrsquore ready

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25

Times Are A Changing Unexpected Take-Outs

by LINDA GARSON and DIANA NG photography by INGRID KUENZEL

Therersquos no denying that many of our cityrsquos restaurants are feeling the effects of the current economic downturn fewer people working downtown ndash indeed fewer people working altogether and so looking to save money by eating out less means many bricks and mortar restaurants are having to get creative with ways to fully utilise their kitchens and staff

High rents exacerbate the situation so itrsquos time for Calgary restaurateurs to think outside the box and proving to be the innovative entrepreneurs that wersquore known for many are diversifying their offerings to include take-out options both raw and cooked

Catch amp The Oyster Bar launched their ldquoBuy Catchrdquo program where you can pick up fresh Ocean Wise seafood to take home and cook (complete with recipes) along with house-made clam chowder and sauces nearly two years ago There are big savings to be had over dining in with no costs for linen or staff and no expectation to tip

Here are four Calgary eateries also getting clever with take-out

programs that are not widely publicised - and may

open a few eyes

26

Centini Restaurant

Itrsquos not a cookie cutter program but the magic of Centinirsquos take-out is that you can ask the kitchen for ideas of what you should have for dinner People even text the servers for suggestions and to order Loyal customers mostly busy businessmen were asking if they catered but without the staff for such a service Centini started offering to prepare dishes for them to cook themselves

Now you can get your favourite restaurant dishes from rack of lamb with red wine demi-glace AAA Alberta beef tenderloin with Gorgonzola pan sauce and sea bass with ginger cream sauce ready to cook at home ldquoWersquore not going to open a bricks and mortar restaurant down south but our food is going thererdquo says Chevonne Centini Theyrsquore seeing pick-ups such as for people stuck at home with a new baby and even 40 people for a funeral

Boxwood

Itrsquos hard to believe that the quality of food coming from the sister restaurant to River Cafe can be had at home and we are not talking about leftovers When

People take home uncooked homemade pasta with sauce separately and even bread dough and often freeze it to cook later or pick up on a Friday evening so everything is prepared ready for Saturday dinner When buying from a restaurant yoursquore getting top quality perfectly trimmed meat everything is done for you - therersquos no shopping

around and even the parsley is chopped And as everything is custom-made all allergies are catered for too

Centini gets fish delivered once or twice every day and it may come as a surprise but with a chef garde manger that spent 15 years in Japan they have customers coming just to take out sushi

you go home to an empty fridge it feels like the only options you have are fast food or pizza Not so

Boxwoodrsquos fresh and seasonal fare is also available to take home While you wonrsquot

be able to enjoy the quaint atmosphere of the restaurant you can order anything on the menu for take out with its special offering being the whole rotisserie free-range chicken which serves two to four people for $40

Many bricks and mortar restaurants are

having to get creative with ways to fully utilise their

kitchens and staff

You will need to call a few hours ahead (the website states before 200 pm) for enough notice for the chicken but for the rest of the selection like its soups and sandwiches you can simply look up the menu online and call to place an order For a perfect night in may we suggest starting with its bison tartare then moving onto the porchetta and another main before finishing off the meal with a slice of pie

27

Gaucho

For most people the elaborate setup of Brazilian barbecue is one of its biggest attractions You may not know this and while you may not be able to take home the lively decor of Gaucho you can actually take the meal home

The spit packed tightly with freshly roasted meats the sign at the table that signals yoursquore ready for more and the roasted and caramelized pineapple that tops off the meal all contribute to the atmosphere but if all you want are the meats and sides for a hefty dinner you can certainly order the meal as a take-out

Order any of the four options (top sirloin pork loin chicken wings or mild sausage) and add three sides from the list of eight which includes a variety of salads black bean stew and rice And because you canrsquot just have one kind of meat when it comes to Brazilian barbecue you can choose additional

Safari Grill

The marinated thinly sliced BBQ short beef ribs at Safari Grill are already a must-have for those in the know but we suspect even regulars will be surprised to discover that you can pick

up uncooked ribs with your choice of seven marinades to take home and BBQ yourself

With none of the associated costs of dining in $65 buys you enough ribs for 10 people and customers actually drive

meats for $4 each Finally choose the sauce yoursquod like to accompany your meal Orders for over five people will come in a big white box and individual

orders come will in regular take-out containers For big parties do call a few hours ahead All you need to make at home is the caipirinha

from Saskatchewan to take away 10-15 lb bags of these uncooked marinated ribs Some people call and ask for them to be marinated and frozen in 5 lb bags to enjoy later as just 5-7 minutes each side on a high flame has the raw ribs ready to eat

And itrsquos not only ribs that people BBQ at home Mishkaki are skewers of marinated chicken beef and prawns and for as little as $3 each you can have a very inexpensive BBQ feast Marinated raw lamb chops are also available or ask for Samaki - a marinated whole tilapia that comes with a basting sauce to brush on You can even get uncooked samosas to cook in your oven at home

All Safari Grillrsquos regular menu can be ordered for take-out but there is no published price list for uncooked dishes so people call to order and ask - but when yoursquore picking up look out for the new jars of house-made mango and lemon pickles

28

Step By Step Go Nuts With Homemade Nutella And Waffles story and photography by NATALIE FINDLAY

There are many nutritional benefits packed into these small filberts They are rich in dietary fibre packed with folate an excellent source of vitamin E and contain mono-unsaturated fatty acids that

can help lower bad cholesterol and raise good cholesterol By making your own Nutella at home you can control the amount of sugar that is added making this delicious spread basicallyhellip a health food

Hazelnuts have a tried and true following for taking the lead role in the chocolate spread Nutella This long-standing love affair has lasted simply because they add a distinct but subtle flavour to the chocolate Truly a match that is better together than apart

These delicious and super-easy waffles make a great base for your homemade Nutella With the addition of ground hazelnuts to the batter you can deepen the hazelnut flavour and pack in more health benefits

Waffles with raspberries and white chocolate spread

29

Natalie is a freelance writer photographer and pastry chef A graduate of Cordon Bleursquos pastry program she manages her own business too to create custom-made cakes

Using the same waffle recipe from above and switching out the mashed banana and adding frac12 a medium orange ndash juice and zest ndash to the batter you have a delicious orange waffle that will highlight the white chocolate hazelnut spread recipe below

Homemade White Chocolate Hazelnut Spread Makes 1frac12 cups

1frac12 cups (200 g) whole hazelnutsfrac12 cup (70 g) icing sugar2 Tbs (30 mL) canola oil1 tsp (5 mL) vanilla extract1 cup (250g) white chocolate

Follow directions for Homemade Nutella and add the melted white chocolate at the end Pulse to combine

Macerated Raspberries with Orange Serves 6

250 g fresh raspberriesfrac12 medium orange zest and juice1 Tbs icing sugarfrac12 tsp vanilla extract

Add all ingredients into a medium bowl and stir to combine Let sit for about 1 hour

Serve your warm waffles topped with your white chocolate homemade hazelnut spread macerated berries and a dollop of whipped cream or ice cream

Note Homemade Nutella has more texture than store bought and will last around 1 month in the fridge Waffles can be made ahead and frozen Thaw and reheat in the waffle maker or the oven

Banana Fruit compoteMakes enough for 6

3 ripe bananas peeled sliced into rounds2 Tbs (30 g) butter2 Tbs (30 g) brown sugar1frac12 tsp (8 mL) vanilla extract1frac12 tsp (8 mL) bourbon

1 Add butter and sugar to a sauteacute pan over medium heat As they melt stir to combine

2 Add vanilla and bourbon than add sliced bananas and sauteacute until warmed through

Serve your warm waffles topped with your homemade hazelnut spread sauteacuteed bananas and a dollop of whipped cream or ice cream

Homemade Nutella Makes 1frac12 cups

1frac12 cups (200 g) whole hazelnutsfrac34 cup (100g) icing sugar3 Tbs (45 mL) canola oilfrac14 cup (30 g) cocoa powder1 tsp (5 mL) vanilla extract

1 Toast hazelnuts on a baking pan in a preheated 350ordm F oven for 10 - 15 minutes Keep an eye on them to make sure they donrsquot start to burn Remove from oven and let cool to the touch

2 Wrap the nuts in a kitchen towel and rub together to remove the skins This should remove most of the skins

3 Place skinless hazelnuts in a food processor on high Process the nuts until they form a smooth paste and the oils start to separate (about 5 minutes) scraping the bowl often

4 Add the icing sugar cocoa powder vanilla and canola oil to the food processor and process until fully incorporated scraping bowl of processor as needed (about 2 minutes)

Hazelnut Banana WafflesMakes 6

frac12 cup (80 g) all purpose flour1 tsp baking powderfrac12 tsp baking sodaPinch sea salt1 Tbs (15 g) icing sugar1 Tbs (10 g) ground hazelnuts6 grates whole nutmeg1 tsp ground cinnamonfrac12 cup (125 mL) buttermilk1 egg yolk2 Tbs (30 g) butter meltedfrac12 small banana peeled and mashed1 egg white

1 Sift together all dry ingredients (except the ground hazelnuts) in a medium bowl Add the ground hazelnuts and combine

2 Mash the half banana in a small bowl with a fork Add the egg buttermilk and melted butter

3 Whisk the egg white to stiff peaks

4 Whisk the wet ingredients into the dry and fold the egg white into the mixture

5 Follow the directions for your waffle pan to cook waffles for around 5 minutes or until cooked through

Note Remember to bring the waffle pan up to temperature in between each batch of waffles

Hazelnut Banana Waffles with Nutella

30

Citrus Beer Friendsby DAVID NUTTALL

This is when the taste andor aroma of a beer can remind the drinker of anything from an orange drink or lemonade to grapefruit soda There are several ways to achieve this character and these beers are becoming more and more popular every day

Hops provide the bitterness in beer and out of the literally hundreds of varieties a few impart citrus notes into the aroma and flavour Cascade and Citra are examples of two of the most popular hops used in several styles of beer most notably the American IPA or India Pale Ale Cascade hops have been around for over 40 years and it is the single most popular hop used by the American craft brewing industry It provides a floralspicy character often reminiscent of grapefruit

Citrarsquos name leaves no guessing as to its attributes A relative newcomer this cross breed of UK German and US hop varieties has been around for less than a decade but it is already an extremely popular hop for imparting

One of the great things about beer is its diversity It can come in a myriad of colours and also a wide variety of flavours citrus being one of the most distinct

Dave Nuttall has been in the liquor and event business forever He is a qualified beer judge and ownerpresident of Epicurean Calgary at epicureancalgarycom for ten years

citrus and tropical fruit characteristics to a beer

It has proven very versatile and appears in several beer styles from session ales to IPAs It has also become a favourite hop to use for dry-hopping (adding hops late into the boil) due to the exceptional aromas it produces For even more flavour and aroma craft brewers now commonly enhance these already citrusy IPAs with actual zest peel or juice from citrus fruits to create an IPAFruit Beer hybrid which sells especially well in summer months

Then there is the yeast and many varieties of yeast can produce citrusy esters The unfiltered hefeweizens brewed on both sides of the Atlantic quite often have a lemony flavour Sour beers also showcase the yeast often cultured from Belgian strains

These beers are tart and produce a gamut of flavours many with citrus qualities and some have added fruit - the easiest and most obvious way to create a citrusy beer The Belgians also add different kinds of oranges with spice additions to their wheat ales to create wit beers now emulated all over the world with different citrus (and other) fruits involved in the recipe We also canrsquot forget the radlers which are simply a lager beer mixed with 40-60 fruit juice - often grapefruit or lemonade

Whether itrsquos added fruit the yeast the hops or a combination of all of them citrusy beers are commonplace now Thanks to new hops like Citra and the increasing popularity of wits and sours we can expect this trend to continue

Here are a few local beers with hints of citrus All are also available on tap

Beer comes in a myriad of colours and flavours citrus being one of the

most distinct

Ribstone Creek Great White CombineThis tiny Edgerton Alberta brewery has been knocking it out of the park lately Named after the ubiquitous Alberta summer hailstorm the use of Belgian yeast sweet orange peel and coriander give this beer an orange flavour in the beginning When the four different hop additions kick in it changes more to a sweet lemony flavour This White IPA has a very tropical feel that makes you forget it was made in northern Alberta CSPC +774162 $16 6-pack cans

Wild Rose Cowbell Sour ales are the new Belle of the Ball at craft breweries Often using imported Belgian yeast strains they are tart tangy and wellhellip sour Calgaryrsquos Wild Rose has taken this flavour profile and added kaffir lime leaves This makes the beer more like a refreshing limeade and is less bitter than many of its other sour counterparts CSPC +778093 $17 6-pack bottles

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Citradelic Single Hop IPA Big Rock BreweryWith breweries in two (soon to be three) provinces Big Rock now has multiple locations to develop new beers This is the first one from their Vancouver brewery and is full of lemongrapefruit flavours and tropical aromas This beer showcases the Citra hop fooling one to think that citrus has been added when itrsquos all thanks to the hop CSPC +778593 $15 6-pack bottles

Alley Kat Main SqueezeWhat started out as a summer seasonal has now become a mainstay of this Edmonton brewery A North American style wheat ale with a 50 wheat and 50 barley mix it has added grapefruit juice but tastes more along the lines of pink grapefruit rather than its more bitter cousin CSPC +733630 $17 6-pack bottles

32

story by RENEE KOHLMAN

Cheesecake is one of those classic desserts that almost everyone loves unless of course you have a dairy allergy then yoursquoll stay far far away from it While it may seem too complicated to make at home I assure you that itrsquos not

Spice it up cheesecake

Sure there are a few steps involved but the key thing to remember is to have your eggs and cream cheese at room temperature For the best crack-free cheesecake itrsquos best to bake it in a water bath It yields a light creamy texture and is well worth the effort Cheesecake always tastes better the next day so bake it the day before you want to serve it Now that wersquove got the basics down itrsquos time to have a little fun with the crust filling and toppings

The Base

The classic graham cracker crust is fine but every now and again itrsquos great to switch things up Try

ndash Grinding up ginger cookies They work especially well for a pumpkin cheesecake

ndash Chocolate cookie crumbs are fantastic for caramel peanut butter and raspberry cheesecakes

ndash Add finely chopped nuts oats or seeds to the cookie crumbs for added texture and taste

The Middle

Therersquos something to be said for a straight up vanilla or chocolate cheesecake but with some fun add-ins they could take your cheesecake to the next level of deliciousness Try

ndash Swirling tahini dulce de leche salted caramel or chocolate fudge sauce into a creamy vanilla filling

ndash Mix in chopped chocolate peanut butter cups to a chocolate filling

ndash Drop fresh berries (raspberries blueberries blackberries) on top of a vanilla filling

ndash Stir in chopped candied ginger dried cherries or cranberries chopped toasted nuts to the filling

ndash Swap some of the cream cheese with ricotta mascarpone cheese or even strained cottage cheese

ndash You can never go wrong with lemon zest in a vanilla cheesecake

Have a little fun with the crust filling

and toppings

33

Apple Crumble CheesecakeMakes about 12-14 servings Total cook and prep time 3 hours (plus overnight chilling)

I love apple crisp and I love cheesecake This recipe is a fine marriage of both and makes a more than acceptable breakfast The base is a crumble of oats and flour the middle is classic cheesecake and itrsquos topped with cinnamon apples and a buttery oat streusel

Crust 2 cups large flake oats1 cup all purpose flour cup packed brown sugarfrac34 cup butter meltedfrac12 tsp salt

Cheesecake Layer3 - 225 g packages cream cheese at room temperature cup granulated sugar1 tsp (5 mL) vanilla3 large eggs at room temperature cup (80 mL) whipping cream

Apple Layer2 apples peeled cored and sliced about 3-4 mm thick1 tsp ground cinnamonfrac12 tsp salt

Streusel Layer1 cup large flake oatsfrac12 cup all-purpose flourfrac12 cup brown sugarfrac12 cup butter softened1 tsp ground cinnamon

Preheat the oven to 375ordm F

1 Butter the bottom and sides of a 9-inch springform pan with sides that are at least 7 cm high Wrap the bottom of the pan in aluminum foil so it comes at least halfway up the sides

2 Combine the crust ingredients in a large bowl Press the crust evenly into the pan and place on a baking sheet Bake for 10 minutes Remove from oven and let it cool on a wire rack

3 Reduce heat to 325ordm F Put a kettle of water on to boil Have a large roasting pan close by

4 Using a stand mixer with a paddle attachment beat the cream cheese at medium speed for 4 minutes scraping down the sides once or twice until it is soft and creamy With the mixer still running add the sugar and beat for another 4 minutes scraping down the sides of the bowl at least twice Beat in the vanilla Add the eggs one at a time beating for 1 minute after each addition and scraping the bowl Reduce speed to low and add the whipping cream

5 Toss the sliced apples with the cinnamon and salt in a small bowl Combine all of the streusel ingredients in a medium bowl and mix well

6 Place the springform pan in the roasting pan Give the cheesecake batter a good stir and pour it on top of the crust Arrange the apples on top and sprinkle the streusel on top of the apples

7 Place in the oven on the middle rack and pour the hot water into the roasting pan so it comes halfway up the sides of the springform pan

8 Bake the cheesecake for 1frac12 hours Turn off the heat prop open the oven door and let the cheesecake hang inside for another hour

9 Carefully remove from the oven and take out the cheesecake from the hot water bath Remove the foil and let the cheesecake come to room temperature on a wire rack Cover the top lightly and refrigerate for at least 4 hours but overnight is best The next day remove the sides of the pan and serve the cake

Renee is a food writer and pastry chef living in beautiful Saskatoon Saskatchewan Her columns appear in The Saskatoon StarPhoenix and her desserts can be enjoyed at Riverside Country Club Also check out her blog wwwsweetsugarbeancom

The Toppings

Cheesecake with no fun toppings is like a salad with no dressing it just doesnrsquot reach its full flavour potential Try

ndash Salted caramel roasted strawberry sauce or warm chocolate sauce

ndash A rhubarbcardamom compote is divine on top of vanilla cheesecake kissed with a bit of lemon zest Cherry compote is divine with chocolate cheesecake

ndash Have a favourite jam Melt it down with a tiny bit of water and drizzle it on top of your favourite cheesecake

ndash Candied nuts and citrus rind chocolate shavings even crumbled cookies are a fun way to add texture to the cheesecake

ndash Never underestimate the power of fresh seasonal berries and a well-made cheesecakeMacerate them in a little sugar and minced mint or basil and they make a lovely topping Donrsquot forget the whipped cream

34

Think about that for a moment and let that sink in like a cherry in your drink

So how old is ice in bars Well thatrsquos a whole story on its own however the Old Fashioned has been talked about in one form or another since the beginning of the 19th Century The first appearance of this classic cocktail was in the Balance and Columbian Repository newspaper in 1806 as such ldquoA stimulating liquor composed of spirits of any kind sugar water and bittersrdquo

The Old FashionedAn Iconic Drink That Has Stood The Test Of Time

by BRICE PERESSINI

Sohelliphow old is the Old Fashioned The Old Fashioned is as old as ice in bars

When you follow these instructions and put this finely-crafted cocktail into your hand swirl around the ice gaze through the caramel-coloured liquid in the glass and contemplate all that has gone into it you can rest assured you are holding a drink that has delighted taste buds for generations The Old Fashioned however has not always been held in high regard There was a time not too long ago where this fine concoction was an unbalanced fruity watered-down pale imitation of itself More recently

there has been a renaissance involved with this invigorating intoxicant and you can and should expect a proper cocktail when it is ordered at a fine establishment

When this drink is properly prepared it should be in perfect balance (as any proper drink should be) The sweetness of the sugar should not cover the flavour of the bourbon and the bitters should add to not overpower the flavour of the whiskey When the Old Fashioned is well made it is as close to cocktail perfection as a sophisticated patron could expect

Befriend a bespoke barkeep at an upstanding establishment and you will be in trusted hands If you find yourself at home and wanting for a nightcap look no further than the Old Fashioned

Enjoy friends

Old Fashioned Recipe

2 oz Buffalo Trace Bourbon (or your personal favourite)4 dashes Angostura Aromatic Bitters1 raw sugar cube

Muddle the sugar and bitters together with a touch of warm water in a rocks glass Add the bourbon then add ice Stir and garnish with an orange peel and cherry (optional)

Brice is a competition cocktail bartender who plies his trade behind the wood at Chefbar Whisk(e)y is his poison Neat

35

Shoulder Season Wines

by JACLYN ADOMEIT

Wines For Cool Weather

Refreshing white wines match with sunny patios and hot days while bold tannic red wines earn their keep by a fireplace on a winter night Common sense But what about the shoulder season What if yoursquore eating sea bass on a rainy spring day Or sipping wine on a patio during an uncommonly warm April afternoon

Photograph courtesy Tom Firth

36

Wine not only pairs with food but with temperatures and seasons A bright sauvignon blanc can taste flat and acidic on a cold night at no fault of the wine or the drinker Some white wines are other-worldly at the vineyard tasting room in the summer but fall flat when you pull them out for dinner guests in the winter

The change in taste is likely due to a number of factors Anatomically it is your sinus cavities creating the change Higher atmospheric pressures allow your nose to pick out subtle aromas while lower pressures bring out a winersquos acidity and harsh tannins CO2 degasses from liquid at low pressure leaving wines dull and flat too

Serving temperature can greatly affect a winersquos aromatics white wines chilled to near-freezing have dull aromas (Tip allow the bottle a half hour on the counter before popping the cork This will allow the aromatics to warm up enhancing the flavour)

Lastly your own palate will be partial to different flavours depending on sun snow wind and sleet but as a rule of thumb higher alcohol white wines (approximately 13 percent or more) will warm the soul and pair best with cooler weather

Here are some wine selections to go for when it is not too hot and not too cold so you can choose a pairing thatrsquos just right

Fiano

Yoursquoll notice that many of the best white wines for cold weather are grown in hot places Hot climates mean a longer growing season more sugar which leads to higher alcohol and often more robust and tropical flavours All of this is true for fiano - seldom grown outside of Campania in southern Italy Fiano produces age-worthy wines which are rich nutty and delicious

Feudi Di San Gregorio 2014 Campania Fiano di Avellino Italy A beautiful floral bouquet with candied lemon followed by honey-coated hazelnuts on the palate Worth cellaring for a few seasons The perfect dance partner for poultry CSPC +708589 $33

Viognier

Viognier is a white varietal that is best consumed at slightly higher temperatures A chilly glass of viognier will leave you with acid maybe oak and not much else Allow it to warm and you may experience peach pear and toasted almond

Traditionally grown in the warm south of France viognier is often a higher alcohol white wine with rich tropical flavours The heat of the alcohol with tropical flavours and lower acid makes viognier the perfect wine to sip while watching a late spring snowfall

Paul Mas 2014 Languedoc-Roussillon Viognier France Brimming with apricot almond lemon and ripe peach Contains hints of warming oak Pair with something savoury baked brie or spinach-filled puff pastry CSPC + 740978 $17

Dry Roseacute

There is so much more to be had from roseacute than white zinfandel And no itrsquos not just a mix of red and white wine The best roseacute is made from red skinned grapes that only sit on their skins for up to a day and a half to borrow colour and flavour then are fermented and processed

Refined examples of roseacute wines are often dry and have deep aromas of red fruits mild tannins and are savoury instead of sweet The French and Spanish craft great examples of dry roseacutes that are either a single varietal or a blend of grapes such as mourvegravedre grenache syrah or tempranillo

Muga Roseacute 2014 Rioja Grenache Viura and Tempranillo Spain A tamed Rioja Orange blossom woven together with strawberry and a palate of cherry and savoury soft cheese Ideal for charcuterie CSPC + 710261 $16

Orange Wine

Never heard of orange wine A commercial demand for natural wines has fostered a resurgence in ancient wine making practices While roseacute wines are reds that have been produced using white wine making practices orange wines are created from white grapes submitted to maceration and allowed to sit on the skins before fermentation the same practice employed in red winemaking

Unlike any white you have tasted orange wines are full-bodied have mild tannins and deep flavours - the characteristics that allow red wines to bring warmth to cool nights A must try for any wine buff

Allow the bottle a half hour on the counter

before popping the cork

The Bicicleta wines are characterized by their fruity expression and for offering more than

the traditional strains a clear example of this range`s innovation style and creativity

Cono Sur Vineyards amp Winery ConoSurVineyards ConoSurWinesconosurcom

The brewhouse at Wild Rose

Jaclynrsquos first passion was winemaking Shersquos worked in vineyards cellars and restaurants Currently she is a writer who daylights as an environmental engineer She believes that a good life like a good wine is not complete without balance

Nichol 2013 Naramata Pinot Gris Canada A Canadian example of orange wine with backbone Flavours of caramel apple roast nuts orange rind and peach CSPC +504159 $31

Oaked chardonnay

In and out with popular palates oak and chardonnay have been partners for a long time Oak paired with chardonnay can bring out butter richness toasted vanilla tree fruit and in the best examples shimmering minerality That is because oak aging is often accompanied by a malolactic fermentation process that smooths out rigid acids into lactic acid - the acid found in milk

Chardonnay is a grape of many talents and encounters a great diversity of production styles It is oaked examples that pair best with pensive rainy days They are full-bodied warming and complex

Wente Morning Fog 2014 Livermore Valley (California) Chardonnay USA Half oak-aged and malolactic-fermented half crisp and fresh this chardonnay brings together green apple vanilla and toasted oak A friend to cream sauce and roast chicken CSPC +175430 $18

In a province of mutable weather let your wine choices be as varied as the ever changing winds Cheers and herersquos to refined full-bodied cool-weather wines

38

Once yoursquore done with your magazine cover shoot like we did this month or prepping for dinner and have all of those odds and ends just sitting on the cutting board - you know carrot ends onion skins tips of celery stalks you get the point - donrsquot toss lsquoem

Instead place them into a large ziploc bag and straight into the freezer After a couple of weeks yoursquoll likely have four full freezer bags of vegetable bits ready to be turned into broth and herersquos how you do it

Making a big batch of vegetable broth doesnrsquot always mean a trip to the grocery store All you need to do is save those scraps This is a handy trick I learned years ago courtesy of Bon Appetit

No-Waste Vegetable Broth

by DAN CLAPSON

Odds And Ends BrothYields 8 cups (2 L)

12 cups (3 L) water4 full ziploc bags of vegetable trimmings1 yellow onion quartered4 cloves garlicAromatics of choice (I usually toss a couple of rosemary and thyme sprigs in there)To taste Salt and pepper

1 Place all ingredients in a large pot and bring to a boil on medium-high heat

2 Reduce to medium heat and let simmer uncovered for 1frac12 hours

3 Strain season to taste with salt and pepper and use as desired

Full circlePizza amp Oyster Bar

933 17 Ave SW bull fullcirclepizzaca

buck-a-shuck oysters

$1 oysters every night

9 pm - close Sunday-thursday 11 pm - close friday amp saturday

40

Salentein 2012 Reserve Chardonnay Uco Valley Argentina

Very very enjoyable chardonnay blowing me away with complexity varietal character and fine balance between oak lees and fruit Toffee baked apple tangerine and a little almond on the nose lead into silkily textured wine in the mouth Top shelf chardonnay that might be great with lobster tails mussels or poultry Around $20 CSPC +779479

Rutini 2013 Cabernet Malbec Mendoza Argentina

An exceptionally well put together blend - if you want rich berry fruits lots of body but maybe not tons of varietal characters from the individual components Lifted and bright fruits make for a very enjoyable glass Simply perfect for your next barbecue a roast or just chilling out with friends and family $26-30 CSPC +776822

Vinecol 2014 Organic Malbec Mendoza Argentina Fair Trade organic and vegan along with a good price is it still good Piles of fresh fruits (think smashed raspberries) with plenty of spice and soft herb-leaf aromas There are plenty of malbec flavours on the palate too Good for any day of the week with just a little tension between fruit tannin and acid it might be best with pub style burgers pulled pork or sausages About $16 CSPC +755296

Argentina is so much more than malbec While such a noble grape has found its best home in the high altitude vineyards of Argentina there is a lot going on with other grapes as well

Making The Case For Argentina

by TOM FIRTH

This massive country nestled up against the Andes mountains has a range of growing conditions suited to a number of grapes From Salta in the north to Patagonia in the south plenty of interesting wines are available here - many reasonably priced and of excellent quality So yes there are some

malbecs on these pages but please do try some of the other grapes and blends coming from Argentina too

Be sure to crack open a bottle of malbec on ldquoWorld Malbec Dayrdquo April 17 - who knows it might be nice enough to barbecue too

Photograph courtesy Tom Firth

41

Manos Negras 2011 Stone Soil Select Mendoza Argentina Quite new to the market this is a pretty enjoyable version of Argentinarsquos flagship grape Loads of blue fruit and raspberries with spices galore and a little compost Rich flavours lead to a lengthy spicy finish Yes please Bring to a barbecue if you can $21 CSPC +630541

Zuccardi 2012 Zeta Mendoza Argentina

A malbec-cabernet sauvignon blend that is also a blend of two different Mendoza appellations La Consulta and Gualtallary Deep and abundant fruit aromas with liquorice root and a touch of blueberry preserves Excellent balance of flavours on the palate too with the right structure and tannin for aging if desired Enjoy with a prime rib or even meaty pasta dishes or game $50-52 CSPC +740270

Zuccardi 2012 ldquoEmmardquo Bonarda Mendoza Argentina

In my humble opinion one of the finest bonardas coming out of Argentina Notes of coffee bean and espresso complement cherry and blackberry fruits with healthy balanced tannins to stand up to the tart fruits Delicious for sure enjoy at your next barbecue $40 CSPC +758407

Luigi Bosca 2011 Cabernet-Malbec Mendoza Argentina

A wonderfully earthy and savoury blend with plenty of tobacco spice leather and yes lots of fruit too The earthy flavours work well with the big dark chocolate flavours and weighty tannins Drink now or through 2020 or so - with a steak naturally $22-24 CSPC +766010

Trivento 2013 Golden Reserve Malbec Lujan de Cuyo Argentina While there is a trend to see a lot of premium malbecs move away from oak presence this one is a bold smooth and delicious example that is seeing about a year of oak All those berry fruits plums and herb notes malbec is known for along with the smoothness that only oak brings Kick back relax maybe cook up some steaks - enjoy About $24 CSPC +711402

Trivento 2014 Malbec Reserve Mendoza Argentina Nearly unbeatable for good malbec at a great price itrsquos rich and chocolatey on the nose with big fruits and oak tones too Mild garrigue notes or dried herb flavours with plenty of fruit and tannins - still showing a fine sense of balance Enjoy with beef $14 CSPC +730714

Luigi Bosca 2011 De Sangre Mendoza Argentina A blend of cabernet sauvignon merlot and syrah that manages to pull out the best of each varietal Earthy and slightly smoky with good fruits and plenty of versatility Tannins are well-placed against the fruits with a long smooth finish Irsquove been a fan of this wine year after year Good to keep a couple on hand in the cellar About $29 CSPC +745106

Salentein 2012 Numina Gran Corte Uco Valley Argentina A malbec-dominated Bordeaux blend this stunner is all about ripe fruits cedar pepper cherries and plum with a little tealeaf and the right amount of tannins Very very well balanced and like any great wine think about some food to go with it Beef tenderloin slow cooked meats or maybe at your next asadohellip About $40 CSPC +764706

Colonia Las Liebres 2013 Bonarda Mendoza Argentina Bear with me here - a fine bonarda with plenty of earthy smoky aromas leading to rubber charred cherries and cocoa Some pretty prominent tannins to be found as well but wow does it all come together A wine that just begs for duck with cranberries or maybe some kebabshellip$20 CSPC +773381

42

Open That Bottleby LINDA GARSON photography by INGRID KUENZEL

ldquoIf you work in a place and yoursquore miserable I donrsquot know if there is a dollar amount that can be attached to that The work that yoursquore doing has to be rewarding and challengingrdquo says Karen KhoGrowing up in Niagara Falls in a Philippino SpanishChinese family Kho was surrounded by food and drinks with an open door policy that has had a huge influence on the person she is today - an

entertainer who likes to make people feel welcome ldquoMy parents wanted me to be a lawyer there was definitely an encouragement to use my voice for goodrdquo she explains ldquoAnd I still think I help people but in a different way a very social wayrdquo

Graduating Western University with a political science degree in 2000 Kho spent a year travelling and living in Australia before taking a leap of faith and moving to Calgary Here she studied wine with the International Sommeliers Guild and WSET but says her real education was a job she adored working in the wine trade at BIN 905 in tandem with running wine programs for CRMR restaurants It was only when the opportunity came to create the wine program at Vin Room six years later that Kho leapt at the challenge of a new idea for the city and spent four happy years there

Eventually she and her partner decided to stretch their wings and went to Vancouver where Kho embarked on a six-month culinary course at the Pacific Institute of Culinary Arts ticking off another box on her bucket list ldquoI wanted a greater understanding of technique in the kitchen and I wanted an understanding of what service on a very basic level would look like if I ever owned my own place and ever had to be the person who filled inrdquo she says ldquoI feel if I was ever in a place that needed someone to chop onions Irsquom your womanrdquo she laughs

A year later the pair came back with the idea of eventually opening their own business in Calgary ldquoThe support we get from this community is heartfelt and this is a city of opportunity People with the right concept are seeing a lot of great success itrsquos still our game planrdquo she says Meanwhile Kho applied only to Teatro where she is now Group Service Director

ldquoI wanted to work at a place that had a challenging wine program and had a level of service with high expectations and where professional service teams

applyrdquo she says ldquoItrsquos pretty romantic to work for a company that has been built on a foundation of service Successful businesses in the restaurant industry get the grand picture which is the moments that yoursquore creating for people and I like to be a part of thatrdquo she adds

So what bottle is Kho saving for a special occasion

Paying homage to her time at BIN 905 Kho explains ldquoI have a bottle of 1996 Chateau Mouton Rothschild which was given to me with some very kind words on my last day at BIN Irsquove always just appreciated my time there it was where I learned the vernacular of wine and itrsquos my first job where I really saw the benefits of serving people with intentionrdquo She continues ldquoI always see it thankfully as the stepping-stone to a broader wine profession and eventually to the position that I have now It was given to me by very close friends that Irsquom still friends with to this dayrdquo

And when is she planning to open the wine

ldquoWhen (partner) Dave and I open our own restaurantrdquo Kho says This isnrsquot something that something that will happen tomorrow but fortunately the wine will last until theyrsquore ready

Charcoal-grilled prime cutsHand-muddled caipirinhas50+ salad bar optionsThree distinct private rooms

pampasteakhousecomcalgary

521 10 Avenue SWCalgary AB

(587) 354-3441

See this weekrsquos promotion

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1316-9th Avenue SE bull (403) 514-0577 bull knifewearYYC bull knifewearcom

Culinaire April 2016indd 2 2016-03-04 501 PM

26

Centini Restaurant

Itrsquos not a cookie cutter program but the magic of Centinirsquos take-out is that you can ask the kitchen for ideas of what you should have for dinner People even text the servers for suggestions and to order Loyal customers mostly busy businessmen were asking if they catered but without the staff for such a service Centini started offering to prepare dishes for them to cook themselves

Now you can get your favourite restaurant dishes from rack of lamb with red wine demi-glace AAA Alberta beef tenderloin with Gorgonzola pan sauce and sea bass with ginger cream sauce ready to cook at home ldquoWersquore not going to open a bricks and mortar restaurant down south but our food is going thererdquo says Chevonne Centini Theyrsquore seeing pick-ups such as for people stuck at home with a new baby and even 40 people for a funeral

Boxwood

Itrsquos hard to believe that the quality of food coming from the sister restaurant to River Cafe can be had at home and we are not talking about leftovers When

People take home uncooked homemade pasta with sauce separately and even bread dough and often freeze it to cook later or pick up on a Friday evening so everything is prepared ready for Saturday dinner When buying from a restaurant yoursquore getting top quality perfectly trimmed meat everything is done for you - therersquos no shopping

around and even the parsley is chopped And as everything is custom-made all allergies are catered for too

Centini gets fish delivered once or twice every day and it may come as a surprise but with a chef garde manger that spent 15 years in Japan they have customers coming just to take out sushi

you go home to an empty fridge it feels like the only options you have are fast food or pizza Not so

Boxwoodrsquos fresh and seasonal fare is also available to take home While you wonrsquot

be able to enjoy the quaint atmosphere of the restaurant you can order anything on the menu for take out with its special offering being the whole rotisserie free-range chicken which serves two to four people for $40

Many bricks and mortar restaurants are

having to get creative with ways to fully utilise their

kitchens and staff

You will need to call a few hours ahead (the website states before 200 pm) for enough notice for the chicken but for the rest of the selection like its soups and sandwiches you can simply look up the menu online and call to place an order For a perfect night in may we suggest starting with its bison tartare then moving onto the porchetta and another main before finishing off the meal with a slice of pie

27

Gaucho

For most people the elaborate setup of Brazilian barbecue is one of its biggest attractions You may not know this and while you may not be able to take home the lively decor of Gaucho you can actually take the meal home

The spit packed tightly with freshly roasted meats the sign at the table that signals yoursquore ready for more and the roasted and caramelized pineapple that tops off the meal all contribute to the atmosphere but if all you want are the meats and sides for a hefty dinner you can certainly order the meal as a take-out

Order any of the four options (top sirloin pork loin chicken wings or mild sausage) and add three sides from the list of eight which includes a variety of salads black bean stew and rice And because you canrsquot just have one kind of meat when it comes to Brazilian barbecue you can choose additional

Safari Grill

The marinated thinly sliced BBQ short beef ribs at Safari Grill are already a must-have for those in the know but we suspect even regulars will be surprised to discover that you can pick

up uncooked ribs with your choice of seven marinades to take home and BBQ yourself

With none of the associated costs of dining in $65 buys you enough ribs for 10 people and customers actually drive

meats for $4 each Finally choose the sauce yoursquod like to accompany your meal Orders for over five people will come in a big white box and individual

orders come will in regular take-out containers For big parties do call a few hours ahead All you need to make at home is the caipirinha

from Saskatchewan to take away 10-15 lb bags of these uncooked marinated ribs Some people call and ask for them to be marinated and frozen in 5 lb bags to enjoy later as just 5-7 minutes each side on a high flame has the raw ribs ready to eat

And itrsquos not only ribs that people BBQ at home Mishkaki are skewers of marinated chicken beef and prawns and for as little as $3 each you can have a very inexpensive BBQ feast Marinated raw lamb chops are also available or ask for Samaki - a marinated whole tilapia that comes with a basting sauce to brush on You can even get uncooked samosas to cook in your oven at home

All Safari Grillrsquos regular menu can be ordered for take-out but there is no published price list for uncooked dishes so people call to order and ask - but when yoursquore picking up look out for the new jars of house-made mango and lemon pickles

28

Step By Step Go Nuts With Homemade Nutella And Waffles story and photography by NATALIE FINDLAY

There are many nutritional benefits packed into these small filberts They are rich in dietary fibre packed with folate an excellent source of vitamin E and contain mono-unsaturated fatty acids that

can help lower bad cholesterol and raise good cholesterol By making your own Nutella at home you can control the amount of sugar that is added making this delicious spread basicallyhellip a health food

Hazelnuts have a tried and true following for taking the lead role in the chocolate spread Nutella This long-standing love affair has lasted simply because they add a distinct but subtle flavour to the chocolate Truly a match that is better together than apart

These delicious and super-easy waffles make a great base for your homemade Nutella With the addition of ground hazelnuts to the batter you can deepen the hazelnut flavour and pack in more health benefits

Waffles with raspberries and white chocolate spread

29

Natalie is a freelance writer photographer and pastry chef A graduate of Cordon Bleursquos pastry program she manages her own business too to create custom-made cakes

Using the same waffle recipe from above and switching out the mashed banana and adding frac12 a medium orange ndash juice and zest ndash to the batter you have a delicious orange waffle that will highlight the white chocolate hazelnut spread recipe below

Homemade White Chocolate Hazelnut Spread Makes 1frac12 cups

1frac12 cups (200 g) whole hazelnutsfrac12 cup (70 g) icing sugar2 Tbs (30 mL) canola oil1 tsp (5 mL) vanilla extract1 cup (250g) white chocolate

Follow directions for Homemade Nutella and add the melted white chocolate at the end Pulse to combine

Macerated Raspberries with Orange Serves 6

250 g fresh raspberriesfrac12 medium orange zest and juice1 Tbs icing sugarfrac12 tsp vanilla extract

Add all ingredients into a medium bowl and stir to combine Let sit for about 1 hour

Serve your warm waffles topped with your white chocolate homemade hazelnut spread macerated berries and a dollop of whipped cream or ice cream

Note Homemade Nutella has more texture than store bought and will last around 1 month in the fridge Waffles can be made ahead and frozen Thaw and reheat in the waffle maker or the oven

Banana Fruit compoteMakes enough for 6

3 ripe bananas peeled sliced into rounds2 Tbs (30 g) butter2 Tbs (30 g) brown sugar1frac12 tsp (8 mL) vanilla extract1frac12 tsp (8 mL) bourbon

1 Add butter and sugar to a sauteacute pan over medium heat As they melt stir to combine

2 Add vanilla and bourbon than add sliced bananas and sauteacute until warmed through

Serve your warm waffles topped with your homemade hazelnut spread sauteacuteed bananas and a dollop of whipped cream or ice cream

Homemade Nutella Makes 1frac12 cups

1frac12 cups (200 g) whole hazelnutsfrac34 cup (100g) icing sugar3 Tbs (45 mL) canola oilfrac14 cup (30 g) cocoa powder1 tsp (5 mL) vanilla extract

1 Toast hazelnuts on a baking pan in a preheated 350ordm F oven for 10 - 15 minutes Keep an eye on them to make sure they donrsquot start to burn Remove from oven and let cool to the touch

2 Wrap the nuts in a kitchen towel and rub together to remove the skins This should remove most of the skins

3 Place skinless hazelnuts in a food processor on high Process the nuts until they form a smooth paste and the oils start to separate (about 5 minutes) scraping the bowl often

4 Add the icing sugar cocoa powder vanilla and canola oil to the food processor and process until fully incorporated scraping bowl of processor as needed (about 2 minutes)

Hazelnut Banana WafflesMakes 6

frac12 cup (80 g) all purpose flour1 tsp baking powderfrac12 tsp baking sodaPinch sea salt1 Tbs (15 g) icing sugar1 Tbs (10 g) ground hazelnuts6 grates whole nutmeg1 tsp ground cinnamonfrac12 cup (125 mL) buttermilk1 egg yolk2 Tbs (30 g) butter meltedfrac12 small banana peeled and mashed1 egg white

1 Sift together all dry ingredients (except the ground hazelnuts) in a medium bowl Add the ground hazelnuts and combine

2 Mash the half banana in a small bowl with a fork Add the egg buttermilk and melted butter

3 Whisk the egg white to stiff peaks

4 Whisk the wet ingredients into the dry and fold the egg white into the mixture

5 Follow the directions for your waffle pan to cook waffles for around 5 minutes or until cooked through

Note Remember to bring the waffle pan up to temperature in between each batch of waffles

Hazelnut Banana Waffles with Nutella

30

Citrus Beer Friendsby DAVID NUTTALL

This is when the taste andor aroma of a beer can remind the drinker of anything from an orange drink or lemonade to grapefruit soda There are several ways to achieve this character and these beers are becoming more and more popular every day

Hops provide the bitterness in beer and out of the literally hundreds of varieties a few impart citrus notes into the aroma and flavour Cascade and Citra are examples of two of the most popular hops used in several styles of beer most notably the American IPA or India Pale Ale Cascade hops have been around for over 40 years and it is the single most popular hop used by the American craft brewing industry It provides a floralspicy character often reminiscent of grapefruit

Citrarsquos name leaves no guessing as to its attributes A relative newcomer this cross breed of UK German and US hop varieties has been around for less than a decade but it is already an extremely popular hop for imparting

One of the great things about beer is its diversity It can come in a myriad of colours and also a wide variety of flavours citrus being one of the most distinct

Dave Nuttall has been in the liquor and event business forever He is a qualified beer judge and ownerpresident of Epicurean Calgary at epicureancalgarycom for ten years

citrus and tropical fruit characteristics to a beer

It has proven very versatile and appears in several beer styles from session ales to IPAs It has also become a favourite hop to use for dry-hopping (adding hops late into the boil) due to the exceptional aromas it produces For even more flavour and aroma craft brewers now commonly enhance these already citrusy IPAs with actual zest peel or juice from citrus fruits to create an IPAFruit Beer hybrid which sells especially well in summer months

Then there is the yeast and many varieties of yeast can produce citrusy esters The unfiltered hefeweizens brewed on both sides of the Atlantic quite often have a lemony flavour Sour beers also showcase the yeast often cultured from Belgian strains

These beers are tart and produce a gamut of flavours many with citrus qualities and some have added fruit - the easiest and most obvious way to create a citrusy beer The Belgians also add different kinds of oranges with spice additions to their wheat ales to create wit beers now emulated all over the world with different citrus (and other) fruits involved in the recipe We also canrsquot forget the radlers which are simply a lager beer mixed with 40-60 fruit juice - often grapefruit or lemonade

Whether itrsquos added fruit the yeast the hops or a combination of all of them citrusy beers are commonplace now Thanks to new hops like Citra and the increasing popularity of wits and sours we can expect this trend to continue

Here are a few local beers with hints of citrus All are also available on tap

Beer comes in a myriad of colours and flavours citrus being one of the

most distinct

Ribstone Creek Great White CombineThis tiny Edgerton Alberta brewery has been knocking it out of the park lately Named after the ubiquitous Alberta summer hailstorm the use of Belgian yeast sweet orange peel and coriander give this beer an orange flavour in the beginning When the four different hop additions kick in it changes more to a sweet lemony flavour This White IPA has a very tropical feel that makes you forget it was made in northern Alberta CSPC +774162 $16 6-pack cans

Wild Rose Cowbell Sour ales are the new Belle of the Ball at craft breweries Often using imported Belgian yeast strains they are tart tangy and wellhellip sour Calgaryrsquos Wild Rose has taken this flavour profile and added kaffir lime leaves This makes the beer more like a refreshing limeade and is less bitter than many of its other sour counterparts CSPC +778093 $17 6-pack bottles

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TICKETS AVAILABLE AT ALBERTABEERFESTIVALSCOM

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CUL15

Citradelic Single Hop IPA Big Rock BreweryWith breweries in two (soon to be three) provinces Big Rock now has multiple locations to develop new beers This is the first one from their Vancouver brewery and is full of lemongrapefruit flavours and tropical aromas This beer showcases the Citra hop fooling one to think that citrus has been added when itrsquos all thanks to the hop CSPC +778593 $15 6-pack bottles

Alley Kat Main SqueezeWhat started out as a summer seasonal has now become a mainstay of this Edmonton brewery A North American style wheat ale with a 50 wheat and 50 barley mix it has added grapefruit juice but tastes more along the lines of pink grapefruit rather than its more bitter cousin CSPC +733630 $17 6-pack bottles

32

story by RENEE KOHLMAN

Cheesecake is one of those classic desserts that almost everyone loves unless of course you have a dairy allergy then yoursquoll stay far far away from it While it may seem too complicated to make at home I assure you that itrsquos not

Spice it up cheesecake

Sure there are a few steps involved but the key thing to remember is to have your eggs and cream cheese at room temperature For the best crack-free cheesecake itrsquos best to bake it in a water bath It yields a light creamy texture and is well worth the effort Cheesecake always tastes better the next day so bake it the day before you want to serve it Now that wersquove got the basics down itrsquos time to have a little fun with the crust filling and toppings

The Base

The classic graham cracker crust is fine but every now and again itrsquos great to switch things up Try

ndash Grinding up ginger cookies They work especially well for a pumpkin cheesecake

ndash Chocolate cookie crumbs are fantastic for caramel peanut butter and raspberry cheesecakes

ndash Add finely chopped nuts oats or seeds to the cookie crumbs for added texture and taste

The Middle

Therersquos something to be said for a straight up vanilla or chocolate cheesecake but with some fun add-ins they could take your cheesecake to the next level of deliciousness Try

ndash Swirling tahini dulce de leche salted caramel or chocolate fudge sauce into a creamy vanilla filling

ndash Mix in chopped chocolate peanut butter cups to a chocolate filling

ndash Drop fresh berries (raspberries blueberries blackberries) on top of a vanilla filling

ndash Stir in chopped candied ginger dried cherries or cranberries chopped toasted nuts to the filling

ndash Swap some of the cream cheese with ricotta mascarpone cheese or even strained cottage cheese

ndash You can never go wrong with lemon zest in a vanilla cheesecake

Have a little fun with the crust filling

and toppings

33

Apple Crumble CheesecakeMakes about 12-14 servings Total cook and prep time 3 hours (plus overnight chilling)

I love apple crisp and I love cheesecake This recipe is a fine marriage of both and makes a more than acceptable breakfast The base is a crumble of oats and flour the middle is classic cheesecake and itrsquos topped with cinnamon apples and a buttery oat streusel

Crust 2 cups large flake oats1 cup all purpose flour cup packed brown sugarfrac34 cup butter meltedfrac12 tsp salt

Cheesecake Layer3 - 225 g packages cream cheese at room temperature cup granulated sugar1 tsp (5 mL) vanilla3 large eggs at room temperature cup (80 mL) whipping cream

Apple Layer2 apples peeled cored and sliced about 3-4 mm thick1 tsp ground cinnamonfrac12 tsp salt

Streusel Layer1 cup large flake oatsfrac12 cup all-purpose flourfrac12 cup brown sugarfrac12 cup butter softened1 tsp ground cinnamon

Preheat the oven to 375ordm F

1 Butter the bottom and sides of a 9-inch springform pan with sides that are at least 7 cm high Wrap the bottom of the pan in aluminum foil so it comes at least halfway up the sides

2 Combine the crust ingredients in a large bowl Press the crust evenly into the pan and place on a baking sheet Bake for 10 minutes Remove from oven and let it cool on a wire rack

3 Reduce heat to 325ordm F Put a kettle of water on to boil Have a large roasting pan close by

4 Using a stand mixer with a paddle attachment beat the cream cheese at medium speed for 4 minutes scraping down the sides once or twice until it is soft and creamy With the mixer still running add the sugar and beat for another 4 minutes scraping down the sides of the bowl at least twice Beat in the vanilla Add the eggs one at a time beating for 1 minute after each addition and scraping the bowl Reduce speed to low and add the whipping cream

5 Toss the sliced apples with the cinnamon and salt in a small bowl Combine all of the streusel ingredients in a medium bowl and mix well

6 Place the springform pan in the roasting pan Give the cheesecake batter a good stir and pour it on top of the crust Arrange the apples on top and sprinkle the streusel on top of the apples

7 Place in the oven on the middle rack and pour the hot water into the roasting pan so it comes halfway up the sides of the springform pan

8 Bake the cheesecake for 1frac12 hours Turn off the heat prop open the oven door and let the cheesecake hang inside for another hour

9 Carefully remove from the oven and take out the cheesecake from the hot water bath Remove the foil and let the cheesecake come to room temperature on a wire rack Cover the top lightly and refrigerate for at least 4 hours but overnight is best The next day remove the sides of the pan and serve the cake

Renee is a food writer and pastry chef living in beautiful Saskatoon Saskatchewan Her columns appear in The Saskatoon StarPhoenix and her desserts can be enjoyed at Riverside Country Club Also check out her blog wwwsweetsugarbeancom

The Toppings

Cheesecake with no fun toppings is like a salad with no dressing it just doesnrsquot reach its full flavour potential Try

ndash Salted caramel roasted strawberry sauce or warm chocolate sauce

ndash A rhubarbcardamom compote is divine on top of vanilla cheesecake kissed with a bit of lemon zest Cherry compote is divine with chocolate cheesecake

ndash Have a favourite jam Melt it down with a tiny bit of water and drizzle it on top of your favourite cheesecake

ndash Candied nuts and citrus rind chocolate shavings even crumbled cookies are a fun way to add texture to the cheesecake

ndash Never underestimate the power of fresh seasonal berries and a well-made cheesecakeMacerate them in a little sugar and minced mint or basil and they make a lovely topping Donrsquot forget the whipped cream

34

Think about that for a moment and let that sink in like a cherry in your drink

So how old is ice in bars Well thatrsquos a whole story on its own however the Old Fashioned has been talked about in one form or another since the beginning of the 19th Century The first appearance of this classic cocktail was in the Balance and Columbian Repository newspaper in 1806 as such ldquoA stimulating liquor composed of spirits of any kind sugar water and bittersrdquo

The Old FashionedAn Iconic Drink That Has Stood The Test Of Time

by BRICE PERESSINI

Sohelliphow old is the Old Fashioned The Old Fashioned is as old as ice in bars

When you follow these instructions and put this finely-crafted cocktail into your hand swirl around the ice gaze through the caramel-coloured liquid in the glass and contemplate all that has gone into it you can rest assured you are holding a drink that has delighted taste buds for generations The Old Fashioned however has not always been held in high regard There was a time not too long ago where this fine concoction was an unbalanced fruity watered-down pale imitation of itself More recently

there has been a renaissance involved with this invigorating intoxicant and you can and should expect a proper cocktail when it is ordered at a fine establishment

When this drink is properly prepared it should be in perfect balance (as any proper drink should be) The sweetness of the sugar should not cover the flavour of the bourbon and the bitters should add to not overpower the flavour of the whiskey When the Old Fashioned is well made it is as close to cocktail perfection as a sophisticated patron could expect

Befriend a bespoke barkeep at an upstanding establishment and you will be in trusted hands If you find yourself at home and wanting for a nightcap look no further than the Old Fashioned

Enjoy friends

Old Fashioned Recipe

2 oz Buffalo Trace Bourbon (or your personal favourite)4 dashes Angostura Aromatic Bitters1 raw sugar cube

Muddle the sugar and bitters together with a touch of warm water in a rocks glass Add the bourbon then add ice Stir and garnish with an orange peel and cherry (optional)

Brice is a competition cocktail bartender who plies his trade behind the wood at Chefbar Whisk(e)y is his poison Neat

35

Shoulder Season Wines

by JACLYN ADOMEIT

Wines For Cool Weather

Refreshing white wines match with sunny patios and hot days while bold tannic red wines earn their keep by a fireplace on a winter night Common sense But what about the shoulder season What if yoursquore eating sea bass on a rainy spring day Or sipping wine on a patio during an uncommonly warm April afternoon

Photograph courtesy Tom Firth

36

Wine not only pairs with food but with temperatures and seasons A bright sauvignon blanc can taste flat and acidic on a cold night at no fault of the wine or the drinker Some white wines are other-worldly at the vineyard tasting room in the summer but fall flat when you pull them out for dinner guests in the winter

The change in taste is likely due to a number of factors Anatomically it is your sinus cavities creating the change Higher atmospheric pressures allow your nose to pick out subtle aromas while lower pressures bring out a winersquos acidity and harsh tannins CO2 degasses from liquid at low pressure leaving wines dull and flat too

Serving temperature can greatly affect a winersquos aromatics white wines chilled to near-freezing have dull aromas (Tip allow the bottle a half hour on the counter before popping the cork This will allow the aromatics to warm up enhancing the flavour)

Lastly your own palate will be partial to different flavours depending on sun snow wind and sleet but as a rule of thumb higher alcohol white wines (approximately 13 percent or more) will warm the soul and pair best with cooler weather

Here are some wine selections to go for when it is not too hot and not too cold so you can choose a pairing thatrsquos just right

Fiano

Yoursquoll notice that many of the best white wines for cold weather are grown in hot places Hot climates mean a longer growing season more sugar which leads to higher alcohol and often more robust and tropical flavours All of this is true for fiano - seldom grown outside of Campania in southern Italy Fiano produces age-worthy wines which are rich nutty and delicious

Feudi Di San Gregorio 2014 Campania Fiano di Avellino Italy A beautiful floral bouquet with candied lemon followed by honey-coated hazelnuts on the palate Worth cellaring for a few seasons The perfect dance partner for poultry CSPC +708589 $33

Viognier

Viognier is a white varietal that is best consumed at slightly higher temperatures A chilly glass of viognier will leave you with acid maybe oak and not much else Allow it to warm and you may experience peach pear and toasted almond

Traditionally grown in the warm south of France viognier is often a higher alcohol white wine with rich tropical flavours The heat of the alcohol with tropical flavours and lower acid makes viognier the perfect wine to sip while watching a late spring snowfall

Paul Mas 2014 Languedoc-Roussillon Viognier France Brimming with apricot almond lemon and ripe peach Contains hints of warming oak Pair with something savoury baked brie or spinach-filled puff pastry CSPC + 740978 $17

Dry Roseacute

There is so much more to be had from roseacute than white zinfandel And no itrsquos not just a mix of red and white wine The best roseacute is made from red skinned grapes that only sit on their skins for up to a day and a half to borrow colour and flavour then are fermented and processed

Refined examples of roseacute wines are often dry and have deep aromas of red fruits mild tannins and are savoury instead of sweet The French and Spanish craft great examples of dry roseacutes that are either a single varietal or a blend of grapes such as mourvegravedre grenache syrah or tempranillo

Muga Roseacute 2014 Rioja Grenache Viura and Tempranillo Spain A tamed Rioja Orange blossom woven together with strawberry and a palate of cherry and savoury soft cheese Ideal for charcuterie CSPC + 710261 $16

Orange Wine

Never heard of orange wine A commercial demand for natural wines has fostered a resurgence in ancient wine making practices While roseacute wines are reds that have been produced using white wine making practices orange wines are created from white grapes submitted to maceration and allowed to sit on the skins before fermentation the same practice employed in red winemaking

Unlike any white you have tasted orange wines are full-bodied have mild tannins and deep flavours - the characteristics that allow red wines to bring warmth to cool nights A must try for any wine buff

Allow the bottle a half hour on the counter

before popping the cork

The Bicicleta wines are characterized by their fruity expression and for offering more than

the traditional strains a clear example of this range`s innovation style and creativity

Cono Sur Vineyards amp Winery ConoSurVineyards ConoSurWinesconosurcom

The brewhouse at Wild Rose

Jaclynrsquos first passion was winemaking Shersquos worked in vineyards cellars and restaurants Currently she is a writer who daylights as an environmental engineer She believes that a good life like a good wine is not complete without balance

Nichol 2013 Naramata Pinot Gris Canada A Canadian example of orange wine with backbone Flavours of caramel apple roast nuts orange rind and peach CSPC +504159 $31

Oaked chardonnay

In and out with popular palates oak and chardonnay have been partners for a long time Oak paired with chardonnay can bring out butter richness toasted vanilla tree fruit and in the best examples shimmering minerality That is because oak aging is often accompanied by a malolactic fermentation process that smooths out rigid acids into lactic acid - the acid found in milk

Chardonnay is a grape of many talents and encounters a great diversity of production styles It is oaked examples that pair best with pensive rainy days They are full-bodied warming and complex

Wente Morning Fog 2014 Livermore Valley (California) Chardonnay USA Half oak-aged and malolactic-fermented half crisp and fresh this chardonnay brings together green apple vanilla and toasted oak A friend to cream sauce and roast chicken CSPC +175430 $18

In a province of mutable weather let your wine choices be as varied as the ever changing winds Cheers and herersquos to refined full-bodied cool-weather wines

38

Once yoursquore done with your magazine cover shoot like we did this month or prepping for dinner and have all of those odds and ends just sitting on the cutting board - you know carrot ends onion skins tips of celery stalks you get the point - donrsquot toss lsquoem

Instead place them into a large ziploc bag and straight into the freezer After a couple of weeks yoursquoll likely have four full freezer bags of vegetable bits ready to be turned into broth and herersquos how you do it

Making a big batch of vegetable broth doesnrsquot always mean a trip to the grocery store All you need to do is save those scraps This is a handy trick I learned years ago courtesy of Bon Appetit

No-Waste Vegetable Broth

by DAN CLAPSON

Odds And Ends BrothYields 8 cups (2 L)

12 cups (3 L) water4 full ziploc bags of vegetable trimmings1 yellow onion quartered4 cloves garlicAromatics of choice (I usually toss a couple of rosemary and thyme sprigs in there)To taste Salt and pepper

1 Place all ingredients in a large pot and bring to a boil on medium-high heat

2 Reduce to medium heat and let simmer uncovered for 1frac12 hours

3 Strain season to taste with salt and pepper and use as desired

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40

Salentein 2012 Reserve Chardonnay Uco Valley Argentina

Very very enjoyable chardonnay blowing me away with complexity varietal character and fine balance between oak lees and fruit Toffee baked apple tangerine and a little almond on the nose lead into silkily textured wine in the mouth Top shelf chardonnay that might be great with lobster tails mussels or poultry Around $20 CSPC +779479

Rutini 2013 Cabernet Malbec Mendoza Argentina

An exceptionally well put together blend - if you want rich berry fruits lots of body but maybe not tons of varietal characters from the individual components Lifted and bright fruits make for a very enjoyable glass Simply perfect for your next barbecue a roast or just chilling out with friends and family $26-30 CSPC +776822

Vinecol 2014 Organic Malbec Mendoza Argentina Fair Trade organic and vegan along with a good price is it still good Piles of fresh fruits (think smashed raspberries) with plenty of spice and soft herb-leaf aromas There are plenty of malbec flavours on the palate too Good for any day of the week with just a little tension between fruit tannin and acid it might be best with pub style burgers pulled pork or sausages About $16 CSPC +755296

Argentina is so much more than malbec While such a noble grape has found its best home in the high altitude vineyards of Argentina there is a lot going on with other grapes as well

Making The Case For Argentina

by TOM FIRTH

This massive country nestled up against the Andes mountains has a range of growing conditions suited to a number of grapes From Salta in the north to Patagonia in the south plenty of interesting wines are available here - many reasonably priced and of excellent quality So yes there are some

malbecs on these pages but please do try some of the other grapes and blends coming from Argentina too

Be sure to crack open a bottle of malbec on ldquoWorld Malbec Dayrdquo April 17 - who knows it might be nice enough to barbecue too

Photograph courtesy Tom Firth

41

Manos Negras 2011 Stone Soil Select Mendoza Argentina Quite new to the market this is a pretty enjoyable version of Argentinarsquos flagship grape Loads of blue fruit and raspberries with spices galore and a little compost Rich flavours lead to a lengthy spicy finish Yes please Bring to a barbecue if you can $21 CSPC +630541

Zuccardi 2012 Zeta Mendoza Argentina

A malbec-cabernet sauvignon blend that is also a blend of two different Mendoza appellations La Consulta and Gualtallary Deep and abundant fruit aromas with liquorice root and a touch of blueberry preserves Excellent balance of flavours on the palate too with the right structure and tannin for aging if desired Enjoy with a prime rib or even meaty pasta dishes or game $50-52 CSPC +740270

Zuccardi 2012 ldquoEmmardquo Bonarda Mendoza Argentina

In my humble opinion one of the finest bonardas coming out of Argentina Notes of coffee bean and espresso complement cherry and blackberry fruits with healthy balanced tannins to stand up to the tart fruits Delicious for sure enjoy at your next barbecue $40 CSPC +758407

Luigi Bosca 2011 Cabernet-Malbec Mendoza Argentina

A wonderfully earthy and savoury blend with plenty of tobacco spice leather and yes lots of fruit too The earthy flavours work well with the big dark chocolate flavours and weighty tannins Drink now or through 2020 or so - with a steak naturally $22-24 CSPC +766010

Trivento 2013 Golden Reserve Malbec Lujan de Cuyo Argentina While there is a trend to see a lot of premium malbecs move away from oak presence this one is a bold smooth and delicious example that is seeing about a year of oak All those berry fruits plums and herb notes malbec is known for along with the smoothness that only oak brings Kick back relax maybe cook up some steaks - enjoy About $24 CSPC +711402

Trivento 2014 Malbec Reserve Mendoza Argentina Nearly unbeatable for good malbec at a great price itrsquos rich and chocolatey on the nose with big fruits and oak tones too Mild garrigue notes or dried herb flavours with plenty of fruit and tannins - still showing a fine sense of balance Enjoy with beef $14 CSPC +730714

Luigi Bosca 2011 De Sangre Mendoza Argentina A blend of cabernet sauvignon merlot and syrah that manages to pull out the best of each varietal Earthy and slightly smoky with good fruits and plenty of versatility Tannins are well-placed against the fruits with a long smooth finish Irsquove been a fan of this wine year after year Good to keep a couple on hand in the cellar About $29 CSPC +745106

Salentein 2012 Numina Gran Corte Uco Valley Argentina A malbec-dominated Bordeaux blend this stunner is all about ripe fruits cedar pepper cherries and plum with a little tealeaf and the right amount of tannins Very very well balanced and like any great wine think about some food to go with it Beef tenderloin slow cooked meats or maybe at your next asadohellip About $40 CSPC +764706

Colonia Las Liebres 2013 Bonarda Mendoza Argentina Bear with me here - a fine bonarda with plenty of earthy smoky aromas leading to rubber charred cherries and cocoa Some pretty prominent tannins to be found as well but wow does it all come together A wine that just begs for duck with cranberries or maybe some kebabshellip$20 CSPC +773381

42

Open That Bottleby LINDA GARSON photography by INGRID KUENZEL

ldquoIf you work in a place and yoursquore miserable I donrsquot know if there is a dollar amount that can be attached to that The work that yoursquore doing has to be rewarding and challengingrdquo says Karen KhoGrowing up in Niagara Falls in a Philippino SpanishChinese family Kho was surrounded by food and drinks with an open door policy that has had a huge influence on the person she is today - an

entertainer who likes to make people feel welcome ldquoMy parents wanted me to be a lawyer there was definitely an encouragement to use my voice for goodrdquo she explains ldquoAnd I still think I help people but in a different way a very social wayrdquo

Graduating Western University with a political science degree in 2000 Kho spent a year travelling and living in Australia before taking a leap of faith and moving to Calgary Here she studied wine with the International Sommeliers Guild and WSET but says her real education was a job she adored working in the wine trade at BIN 905 in tandem with running wine programs for CRMR restaurants It was only when the opportunity came to create the wine program at Vin Room six years later that Kho leapt at the challenge of a new idea for the city and spent four happy years there

Eventually she and her partner decided to stretch their wings and went to Vancouver where Kho embarked on a six-month culinary course at the Pacific Institute of Culinary Arts ticking off another box on her bucket list ldquoI wanted a greater understanding of technique in the kitchen and I wanted an understanding of what service on a very basic level would look like if I ever owned my own place and ever had to be the person who filled inrdquo she says ldquoI feel if I was ever in a place that needed someone to chop onions Irsquom your womanrdquo she laughs

A year later the pair came back with the idea of eventually opening their own business in Calgary ldquoThe support we get from this community is heartfelt and this is a city of opportunity People with the right concept are seeing a lot of great success itrsquos still our game planrdquo she says Meanwhile Kho applied only to Teatro where she is now Group Service Director

ldquoI wanted to work at a place that had a challenging wine program and had a level of service with high expectations and where professional service teams

applyrdquo she says ldquoItrsquos pretty romantic to work for a company that has been built on a foundation of service Successful businesses in the restaurant industry get the grand picture which is the moments that yoursquore creating for people and I like to be a part of thatrdquo she adds

So what bottle is Kho saving for a special occasion

Paying homage to her time at BIN 905 Kho explains ldquoI have a bottle of 1996 Chateau Mouton Rothschild which was given to me with some very kind words on my last day at BIN Irsquove always just appreciated my time there it was where I learned the vernacular of wine and itrsquos my first job where I really saw the benefits of serving people with intentionrdquo She continues ldquoI always see it thankfully as the stepping-stone to a broader wine profession and eventually to the position that I have now It was given to me by very close friends that Irsquom still friends with to this dayrdquo

And when is she planning to open the wine

ldquoWhen (partner) Dave and I open our own restaurantrdquo Kho says This isnrsquot something that something that will happen tomorrow but fortunately the wine will last until theyrsquore ready

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27

Gaucho

For most people the elaborate setup of Brazilian barbecue is one of its biggest attractions You may not know this and while you may not be able to take home the lively decor of Gaucho you can actually take the meal home

The spit packed tightly with freshly roasted meats the sign at the table that signals yoursquore ready for more and the roasted and caramelized pineapple that tops off the meal all contribute to the atmosphere but if all you want are the meats and sides for a hefty dinner you can certainly order the meal as a take-out

Order any of the four options (top sirloin pork loin chicken wings or mild sausage) and add three sides from the list of eight which includes a variety of salads black bean stew and rice And because you canrsquot just have one kind of meat when it comes to Brazilian barbecue you can choose additional

Safari Grill

The marinated thinly sliced BBQ short beef ribs at Safari Grill are already a must-have for those in the know but we suspect even regulars will be surprised to discover that you can pick

up uncooked ribs with your choice of seven marinades to take home and BBQ yourself

With none of the associated costs of dining in $65 buys you enough ribs for 10 people and customers actually drive

meats for $4 each Finally choose the sauce yoursquod like to accompany your meal Orders for over five people will come in a big white box and individual

orders come will in regular take-out containers For big parties do call a few hours ahead All you need to make at home is the caipirinha

from Saskatchewan to take away 10-15 lb bags of these uncooked marinated ribs Some people call and ask for them to be marinated and frozen in 5 lb bags to enjoy later as just 5-7 minutes each side on a high flame has the raw ribs ready to eat

And itrsquos not only ribs that people BBQ at home Mishkaki are skewers of marinated chicken beef and prawns and for as little as $3 each you can have a very inexpensive BBQ feast Marinated raw lamb chops are also available or ask for Samaki - a marinated whole tilapia that comes with a basting sauce to brush on You can even get uncooked samosas to cook in your oven at home

All Safari Grillrsquos regular menu can be ordered for take-out but there is no published price list for uncooked dishes so people call to order and ask - but when yoursquore picking up look out for the new jars of house-made mango and lemon pickles

28

Step By Step Go Nuts With Homemade Nutella And Waffles story and photography by NATALIE FINDLAY

There are many nutritional benefits packed into these small filberts They are rich in dietary fibre packed with folate an excellent source of vitamin E and contain mono-unsaturated fatty acids that

can help lower bad cholesterol and raise good cholesterol By making your own Nutella at home you can control the amount of sugar that is added making this delicious spread basicallyhellip a health food

Hazelnuts have a tried and true following for taking the lead role in the chocolate spread Nutella This long-standing love affair has lasted simply because they add a distinct but subtle flavour to the chocolate Truly a match that is better together than apart

These delicious and super-easy waffles make a great base for your homemade Nutella With the addition of ground hazelnuts to the batter you can deepen the hazelnut flavour and pack in more health benefits

Waffles with raspberries and white chocolate spread

29

Natalie is a freelance writer photographer and pastry chef A graduate of Cordon Bleursquos pastry program she manages her own business too to create custom-made cakes

Using the same waffle recipe from above and switching out the mashed banana and adding frac12 a medium orange ndash juice and zest ndash to the batter you have a delicious orange waffle that will highlight the white chocolate hazelnut spread recipe below

Homemade White Chocolate Hazelnut Spread Makes 1frac12 cups

1frac12 cups (200 g) whole hazelnutsfrac12 cup (70 g) icing sugar2 Tbs (30 mL) canola oil1 tsp (5 mL) vanilla extract1 cup (250g) white chocolate

Follow directions for Homemade Nutella and add the melted white chocolate at the end Pulse to combine

Macerated Raspberries with Orange Serves 6

250 g fresh raspberriesfrac12 medium orange zest and juice1 Tbs icing sugarfrac12 tsp vanilla extract

Add all ingredients into a medium bowl and stir to combine Let sit for about 1 hour

Serve your warm waffles topped with your white chocolate homemade hazelnut spread macerated berries and a dollop of whipped cream or ice cream

Note Homemade Nutella has more texture than store bought and will last around 1 month in the fridge Waffles can be made ahead and frozen Thaw and reheat in the waffle maker or the oven

Banana Fruit compoteMakes enough for 6

3 ripe bananas peeled sliced into rounds2 Tbs (30 g) butter2 Tbs (30 g) brown sugar1frac12 tsp (8 mL) vanilla extract1frac12 tsp (8 mL) bourbon

1 Add butter and sugar to a sauteacute pan over medium heat As they melt stir to combine

2 Add vanilla and bourbon than add sliced bananas and sauteacute until warmed through

Serve your warm waffles topped with your homemade hazelnut spread sauteacuteed bananas and a dollop of whipped cream or ice cream

Homemade Nutella Makes 1frac12 cups

1frac12 cups (200 g) whole hazelnutsfrac34 cup (100g) icing sugar3 Tbs (45 mL) canola oilfrac14 cup (30 g) cocoa powder1 tsp (5 mL) vanilla extract

1 Toast hazelnuts on a baking pan in a preheated 350ordm F oven for 10 - 15 minutes Keep an eye on them to make sure they donrsquot start to burn Remove from oven and let cool to the touch

2 Wrap the nuts in a kitchen towel and rub together to remove the skins This should remove most of the skins

3 Place skinless hazelnuts in a food processor on high Process the nuts until they form a smooth paste and the oils start to separate (about 5 minutes) scraping the bowl often

4 Add the icing sugar cocoa powder vanilla and canola oil to the food processor and process until fully incorporated scraping bowl of processor as needed (about 2 minutes)

Hazelnut Banana WafflesMakes 6

frac12 cup (80 g) all purpose flour1 tsp baking powderfrac12 tsp baking sodaPinch sea salt1 Tbs (15 g) icing sugar1 Tbs (10 g) ground hazelnuts6 grates whole nutmeg1 tsp ground cinnamonfrac12 cup (125 mL) buttermilk1 egg yolk2 Tbs (30 g) butter meltedfrac12 small banana peeled and mashed1 egg white

1 Sift together all dry ingredients (except the ground hazelnuts) in a medium bowl Add the ground hazelnuts and combine

2 Mash the half banana in a small bowl with a fork Add the egg buttermilk and melted butter

3 Whisk the egg white to stiff peaks

4 Whisk the wet ingredients into the dry and fold the egg white into the mixture

5 Follow the directions for your waffle pan to cook waffles for around 5 minutes or until cooked through

Note Remember to bring the waffle pan up to temperature in between each batch of waffles

Hazelnut Banana Waffles with Nutella

30

Citrus Beer Friendsby DAVID NUTTALL

This is when the taste andor aroma of a beer can remind the drinker of anything from an orange drink or lemonade to grapefruit soda There are several ways to achieve this character and these beers are becoming more and more popular every day

Hops provide the bitterness in beer and out of the literally hundreds of varieties a few impart citrus notes into the aroma and flavour Cascade and Citra are examples of two of the most popular hops used in several styles of beer most notably the American IPA or India Pale Ale Cascade hops have been around for over 40 years and it is the single most popular hop used by the American craft brewing industry It provides a floralspicy character often reminiscent of grapefruit

Citrarsquos name leaves no guessing as to its attributes A relative newcomer this cross breed of UK German and US hop varieties has been around for less than a decade but it is already an extremely popular hop for imparting

One of the great things about beer is its diversity It can come in a myriad of colours and also a wide variety of flavours citrus being one of the most distinct

Dave Nuttall has been in the liquor and event business forever He is a qualified beer judge and ownerpresident of Epicurean Calgary at epicureancalgarycom for ten years

citrus and tropical fruit characteristics to a beer

It has proven very versatile and appears in several beer styles from session ales to IPAs It has also become a favourite hop to use for dry-hopping (adding hops late into the boil) due to the exceptional aromas it produces For even more flavour and aroma craft brewers now commonly enhance these already citrusy IPAs with actual zest peel or juice from citrus fruits to create an IPAFruit Beer hybrid which sells especially well in summer months

Then there is the yeast and many varieties of yeast can produce citrusy esters The unfiltered hefeweizens brewed on both sides of the Atlantic quite often have a lemony flavour Sour beers also showcase the yeast often cultured from Belgian strains

These beers are tart and produce a gamut of flavours many with citrus qualities and some have added fruit - the easiest and most obvious way to create a citrusy beer The Belgians also add different kinds of oranges with spice additions to their wheat ales to create wit beers now emulated all over the world with different citrus (and other) fruits involved in the recipe We also canrsquot forget the radlers which are simply a lager beer mixed with 40-60 fruit juice - often grapefruit or lemonade

Whether itrsquos added fruit the yeast the hops or a combination of all of them citrusy beers are commonplace now Thanks to new hops like Citra and the increasing popularity of wits and sours we can expect this trend to continue

Here are a few local beers with hints of citrus All are also available on tap

Beer comes in a myriad of colours and flavours citrus being one of the

most distinct

Ribstone Creek Great White CombineThis tiny Edgerton Alberta brewery has been knocking it out of the park lately Named after the ubiquitous Alberta summer hailstorm the use of Belgian yeast sweet orange peel and coriander give this beer an orange flavour in the beginning When the four different hop additions kick in it changes more to a sweet lemony flavour This White IPA has a very tropical feel that makes you forget it was made in northern Alberta CSPC +774162 $16 6-pack cans

Wild Rose Cowbell Sour ales are the new Belle of the Ball at craft breweries Often using imported Belgian yeast strains they are tart tangy and wellhellip sour Calgaryrsquos Wild Rose has taken this flavour profile and added kaffir lime leaves This makes the beer more like a refreshing limeade and is less bitter than many of its other sour counterparts CSPC +778093 $17 6-pack bottles

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Citradelic Single Hop IPA Big Rock BreweryWith breweries in two (soon to be three) provinces Big Rock now has multiple locations to develop new beers This is the first one from their Vancouver brewery and is full of lemongrapefruit flavours and tropical aromas This beer showcases the Citra hop fooling one to think that citrus has been added when itrsquos all thanks to the hop CSPC +778593 $15 6-pack bottles

Alley Kat Main SqueezeWhat started out as a summer seasonal has now become a mainstay of this Edmonton brewery A North American style wheat ale with a 50 wheat and 50 barley mix it has added grapefruit juice but tastes more along the lines of pink grapefruit rather than its more bitter cousin CSPC +733630 $17 6-pack bottles

32

story by RENEE KOHLMAN

Cheesecake is one of those classic desserts that almost everyone loves unless of course you have a dairy allergy then yoursquoll stay far far away from it While it may seem too complicated to make at home I assure you that itrsquos not

Spice it up cheesecake

Sure there are a few steps involved but the key thing to remember is to have your eggs and cream cheese at room temperature For the best crack-free cheesecake itrsquos best to bake it in a water bath It yields a light creamy texture and is well worth the effort Cheesecake always tastes better the next day so bake it the day before you want to serve it Now that wersquove got the basics down itrsquos time to have a little fun with the crust filling and toppings

The Base

The classic graham cracker crust is fine but every now and again itrsquos great to switch things up Try

ndash Grinding up ginger cookies They work especially well for a pumpkin cheesecake

ndash Chocolate cookie crumbs are fantastic for caramel peanut butter and raspberry cheesecakes

ndash Add finely chopped nuts oats or seeds to the cookie crumbs for added texture and taste

The Middle

Therersquos something to be said for a straight up vanilla or chocolate cheesecake but with some fun add-ins they could take your cheesecake to the next level of deliciousness Try

ndash Swirling tahini dulce de leche salted caramel or chocolate fudge sauce into a creamy vanilla filling

ndash Mix in chopped chocolate peanut butter cups to a chocolate filling

ndash Drop fresh berries (raspberries blueberries blackberries) on top of a vanilla filling

ndash Stir in chopped candied ginger dried cherries or cranberries chopped toasted nuts to the filling

ndash Swap some of the cream cheese with ricotta mascarpone cheese or even strained cottage cheese

ndash You can never go wrong with lemon zest in a vanilla cheesecake

Have a little fun with the crust filling

and toppings

33

Apple Crumble CheesecakeMakes about 12-14 servings Total cook and prep time 3 hours (plus overnight chilling)

I love apple crisp and I love cheesecake This recipe is a fine marriage of both and makes a more than acceptable breakfast The base is a crumble of oats and flour the middle is classic cheesecake and itrsquos topped with cinnamon apples and a buttery oat streusel

Crust 2 cups large flake oats1 cup all purpose flour cup packed brown sugarfrac34 cup butter meltedfrac12 tsp salt

Cheesecake Layer3 - 225 g packages cream cheese at room temperature cup granulated sugar1 tsp (5 mL) vanilla3 large eggs at room temperature cup (80 mL) whipping cream

Apple Layer2 apples peeled cored and sliced about 3-4 mm thick1 tsp ground cinnamonfrac12 tsp salt

Streusel Layer1 cup large flake oatsfrac12 cup all-purpose flourfrac12 cup brown sugarfrac12 cup butter softened1 tsp ground cinnamon

Preheat the oven to 375ordm F

1 Butter the bottom and sides of a 9-inch springform pan with sides that are at least 7 cm high Wrap the bottom of the pan in aluminum foil so it comes at least halfway up the sides

2 Combine the crust ingredients in a large bowl Press the crust evenly into the pan and place on a baking sheet Bake for 10 minutes Remove from oven and let it cool on a wire rack

3 Reduce heat to 325ordm F Put a kettle of water on to boil Have a large roasting pan close by

4 Using a stand mixer with a paddle attachment beat the cream cheese at medium speed for 4 minutes scraping down the sides once or twice until it is soft and creamy With the mixer still running add the sugar and beat for another 4 minutes scraping down the sides of the bowl at least twice Beat in the vanilla Add the eggs one at a time beating for 1 minute after each addition and scraping the bowl Reduce speed to low and add the whipping cream

5 Toss the sliced apples with the cinnamon and salt in a small bowl Combine all of the streusel ingredients in a medium bowl and mix well

6 Place the springform pan in the roasting pan Give the cheesecake batter a good stir and pour it on top of the crust Arrange the apples on top and sprinkle the streusel on top of the apples

7 Place in the oven on the middle rack and pour the hot water into the roasting pan so it comes halfway up the sides of the springform pan

8 Bake the cheesecake for 1frac12 hours Turn off the heat prop open the oven door and let the cheesecake hang inside for another hour

9 Carefully remove from the oven and take out the cheesecake from the hot water bath Remove the foil and let the cheesecake come to room temperature on a wire rack Cover the top lightly and refrigerate for at least 4 hours but overnight is best The next day remove the sides of the pan and serve the cake

Renee is a food writer and pastry chef living in beautiful Saskatoon Saskatchewan Her columns appear in The Saskatoon StarPhoenix and her desserts can be enjoyed at Riverside Country Club Also check out her blog wwwsweetsugarbeancom

The Toppings

Cheesecake with no fun toppings is like a salad with no dressing it just doesnrsquot reach its full flavour potential Try

ndash Salted caramel roasted strawberry sauce or warm chocolate sauce

ndash A rhubarbcardamom compote is divine on top of vanilla cheesecake kissed with a bit of lemon zest Cherry compote is divine with chocolate cheesecake

ndash Have a favourite jam Melt it down with a tiny bit of water and drizzle it on top of your favourite cheesecake

ndash Candied nuts and citrus rind chocolate shavings even crumbled cookies are a fun way to add texture to the cheesecake

ndash Never underestimate the power of fresh seasonal berries and a well-made cheesecakeMacerate them in a little sugar and minced mint or basil and they make a lovely topping Donrsquot forget the whipped cream

34

Think about that for a moment and let that sink in like a cherry in your drink

So how old is ice in bars Well thatrsquos a whole story on its own however the Old Fashioned has been talked about in one form or another since the beginning of the 19th Century The first appearance of this classic cocktail was in the Balance and Columbian Repository newspaper in 1806 as such ldquoA stimulating liquor composed of spirits of any kind sugar water and bittersrdquo

The Old FashionedAn Iconic Drink That Has Stood The Test Of Time

by BRICE PERESSINI

Sohelliphow old is the Old Fashioned The Old Fashioned is as old as ice in bars

When you follow these instructions and put this finely-crafted cocktail into your hand swirl around the ice gaze through the caramel-coloured liquid in the glass and contemplate all that has gone into it you can rest assured you are holding a drink that has delighted taste buds for generations The Old Fashioned however has not always been held in high regard There was a time not too long ago where this fine concoction was an unbalanced fruity watered-down pale imitation of itself More recently

there has been a renaissance involved with this invigorating intoxicant and you can and should expect a proper cocktail when it is ordered at a fine establishment

When this drink is properly prepared it should be in perfect balance (as any proper drink should be) The sweetness of the sugar should not cover the flavour of the bourbon and the bitters should add to not overpower the flavour of the whiskey When the Old Fashioned is well made it is as close to cocktail perfection as a sophisticated patron could expect

Befriend a bespoke barkeep at an upstanding establishment and you will be in trusted hands If you find yourself at home and wanting for a nightcap look no further than the Old Fashioned

Enjoy friends

Old Fashioned Recipe

2 oz Buffalo Trace Bourbon (or your personal favourite)4 dashes Angostura Aromatic Bitters1 raw sugar cube

Muddle the sugar and bitters together with a touch of warm water in a rocks glass Add the bourbon then add ice Stir and garnish with an orange peel and cherry (optional)

Brice is a competition cocktail bartender who plies his trade behind the wood at Chefbar Whisk(e)y is his poison Neat

35

Shoulder Season Wines

by JACLYN ADOMEIT

Wines For Cool Weather

Refreshing white wines match with sunny patios and hot days while bold tannic red wines earn their keep by a fireplace on a winter night Common sense But what about the shoulder season What if yoursquore eating sea bass on a rainy spring day Or sipping wine on a patio during an uncommonly warm April afternoon

Photograph courtesy Tom Firth

36

Wine not only pairs with food but with temperatures and seasons A bright sauvignon blanc can taste flat and acidic on a cold night at no fault of the wine or the drinker Some white wines are other-worldly at the vineyard tasting room in the summer but fall flat when you pull them out for dinner guests in the winter

The change in taste is likely due to a number of factors Anatomically it is your sinus cavities creating the change Higher atmospheric pressures allow your nose to pick out subtle aromas while lower pressures bring out a winersquos acidity and harsh tannins CO2 degasses from liquid at low pressure leaving wines dull and flat too

Serving temperature can greatly affect a winersquos aromatics white wines chilled to near-freezing have dull aromas (Tip allow the bottle a half hour on the counter before popping the cork This will allow the aromatics to warm up enhancing the flavour)

Lastly your own palate will be partial to different flavours depending on sun snow wind and sleet but as a rule of thumb higher alcohol white wines (approximately 13 percent or more) will warm the soul and pair best with cooler weather

Here are some wine selections to go for when it is not too hot and not too cold so you can choose a pairing thatrsquos just right

Fiano

Yoursquoll notice that many of the best white wines for cold weather are grown in hot places Hot climates mean a longer growing season more sugar which leads to higher alcohol and often more robust and tropical flavours All of this is true for fiano - seldom grown outside of Campania in southern Italy Fiano produces age-worthy wines which are rich nutty and delicious

Feudi Di San Gregorio 2014 Campania Fiano di Avellino Italy A beautiful floral bouquet with candied lemon followed by honey-coated hazelnuts on the palate Worth cellaring for a few seasons The perfect dance partner for poultry CSPC +708589 $33

Viognier

Viognier is a white varietal that is best consumed at slightly higher temperatures A chilly glass of viognier will leave you with acid maybe oak and not much else Allow it to warm and you may experience peach pear and toasted almond

Traditionally grown in the warm south of France viognier is often a higher alcohol white wine with rich tropical flavours The heat of the alcohol with tropical flavours and lower acid makes viognier the perfect wine to sip while watching a late spring snowfall

Paul Mas 2014 Languedoc-Roussillon Viognier France Brimming with apricot almond lemon and ripe peach Contains hints of warming oak Pair with something savoury baked brie or spinach-filled puff pastry CSPC + 740978 $17

Dry Roseacute

There is so much more to be had from roseacute than white zinfandel And no itrsquos not just a mix of red and white wine The best roseacute is made from red skinned grapes that only sit on their skins for up to a day and a half to borrow colour and flavour then are fermented and processed

Refined examples of roseacute wines are often dry and have deep aromas of red fruits mild tannins and are savoury instead of sweet The French and Spanish craft great examples of dry roseacutes that are either a single varietal or a blend of grapes such as mourvegravedre grenache syrah or tempranillo

Muga Roseacute 2014 Rioja Grenache Viura and Tempranillo Spain A tamed Rioja Orange blossom woven together with strawberry and a palate of cherry and savoury soft cheese Ideal for charcuterie CSPC + 710261 $16

Orange Wine

Never heard of orange wine A commercial demand for natural wines has fostered a resurgence in ancient wine making practices While roseacute wines are reds that have been produced using white wine making practices orange wines are created from white grapes submitted to maceration and allowed to sit on the skins before fermentation the same practice employed in red winemaking

Unlike any white you have tasted orange wines are full-bodied have mild tannins and deep flavours - the characteristics that allow red wines to bring warmth to cool nights A must try for any wine buff

Allow the bottle a half hour on the counter

before popping the cork

The Bicicleta wines are characterized by their fruity expression and for offering more than

the traditional strains a clear example of this range`s innovation style and creativity

Cono Sur Vineyards amp Winery ConoSurVineyards ConoSurWinesconosurcom

The brewhouse at Wild Rose

Jaclynrsquos first passion was winemaking Shersquos worked in vineyards cellars and restaurants Currently she is a writer who daylights as an environmental engineer She believes that a good life like a good wine is not complete without balance

Nichol 2013 Naramata Pinot Gris Canada A Canadian example of orange wine with backbone Flavours of caramel apple roast nuts orange rind and peach CSPC +504159 $31

Oaked chardonnay

In and out with popular palates oak and chardonnay have been partners for a long time Oak paired with chardonnay can bring out butter richness toasted vanilla tree fruit and in the best examples shimmering minerality That is because oak aging is often accompanied by a malolactic fermentation process that smooths out rigid acids into lactic acid - the acid found in milk

Chardonnay is a grape of many talents and encounters a great diversity of production styles It is oaked examples that pair best with pensive rainy days They are full-bodied warming and complex

Wente Morning Fog 2014 Livermore Valley (California) Chardonnay USA Half oak-aged and malolactic-fermented half crisp and fresh this chardonnay brings together green apple vanilla and toasted oak A friend to cream sauce and roast chicken CSPC +175430 $18

In a province of mutable weather let your wine choices be as varied as the ever changing winds Cheers and herersquos to refined full-bodied cool-weather wines

38

Once yoursquore done with your magazine cover shoot like we did this month or prepping for dinner and have all of those odds and ends just sitting on the cutting board - you know carrot ends onion skins tips of celery stalks you get the point - donrsquot toss lsquoem

Instead place them into a large ziploc bag and straight into the freezer After a couple of weeks yoursquoll likely have four full freezer bags of vegetable bits ready to be turned into broth and herersquos how you do it

Making a big batch of vegetable broth doesnrsquot always mean a trip to the grocery store All you need to do is save those scraps This is a handy trick I learned years ago courtesy of Bon Appetit

No-Waste Vegetable Broth

by DAN CLAPSON

Odds And Ends BrothYields 8 cups (2 L)

12 cups (3 L) water4 full ziploc bags of vegetable trimmings1 yellow onion quartered4 cloves garlicAromatics of choice (I usually toss a couple of rosemary and thyme sprigs in there)To taste Salt and pepper

1 Place all ingredients in a large pot and bring to a boil on medium-high heat

2 Reduce to medium heat and let simmer uncovered for 1frac12 hours

3 Strain season to taste with salt and pepper and use as desired

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40

Salentein 2012 Reserve Chardonnay Uco Valley Argentina

Very very enjoyable chardonnay blowing me away with complexity varietal character and fine balance between oak lees and fruit Toffee baked apple tangerine and a little almond on the nose lead into silkily textured wine in the mouth Top shelf chardonnay that might be great with lobster tails mussels or poultry Around $20 CSPC +779479

Rutini 2013 Cabernet Malbec Mendoza Argentina

An exceptionally well put together blend - if you want rich berry fruits lots of body but maybe not tons of varietal characters from the individual components Lifted and bright fruits make for a very enjoyable glass Simply perfect for your next barbecue a roast or just chilling out with friends and family $26-30 CSPC +776822

Vinecol 2014 Organic Malbec Mendoza Argentina Fair Trade organic and vegan along with a good price is it still good Piles of fresh fruits (think smashed raspberries) with plenty of spice and soft herb-leaf aromas There are plenty of malbec flavours on the palate too Good for any day of the week with just a little tension between fruit tannin and acid it might be best with pub style burgers pulled pork or sausages About $16 CSPC +755296

Argentina is so much more than malbec While such a noble grape has found its best home in the high altitude vineyards of Argentina there is a lot going on with other grapes as well

Making The Case For Argentina

by TOM FIRTH

This massive country nestled up against the Andes mountains has a range of growing conditions suited to a number of grapes From Salta in the north to Patagonia in the south plenty of interesting wines are available here - many reasonably priced and of excellent quality So yes there are some

malbecs on these pages but please do try some of the other grapes and blends coming from Argentina too

Be sure to crack open a bottle of malbec on ldquoWorld Malbec Dayrdquo April 17 - who knows it might be nice enough to barbecue too

Photograph courtesy Tom Firth

41

Manos Negras 2011 Stone Soil Select Mendoza Argentina Quite new to the market this is a pretty enjoyable version of Argentinarsquos flagship grape Loads of blue fruit and raspberries with spices galore and a little compost Rich flavours lead to a lengthy spicy finish Yes please Bring to a barbecue if you can $21 CSPC +630541

Zuccardi 2012 Zeta Mendoza Argentina

A malbec-cabernet sauvignon blend that is also a blend of two different Mendoza appellations La Consulta and Gualtallary Deep and abundant fruit aromas with liquorice root and a touch of blueberry preserves Excellent balance of flavours on the palate too with the right structure and tannin for aging if desired Enjoy with a prime rib or even meaty pasta dishes or game $50-52 CSPC +740270

Zuccardi 2012 ldquoEmmardquo Bonarda Mendoza Argentina

In my humble opinion one of the finest bonardas coming out of Argentina Notes of coffee bean and espresso complement cherry and blackberry fruits with healthy balanced tannins to stand up to the tart fruits Delicious for sure enjoy at your next barbecue $40 CSPC +758407

Luigi Bosca 2011 Cabernet-Malbec Mendoza Argentina

A wonderfully earthy and savoury blend with plenty of tobacco spice leather and yes lots of fruit too The earthy flavours work well with the big dark chocolate flavours and weighty tannins Drink now or through 2020 or so - with a steak naturally $22-24 CSPC +766010

Trivento 2013 Golden Reserve Malbec Lujan de Cuyo Argentina While there is a trend to see a lot of premium malbecs move away from oak presence this one is a bold smooth and delicious example that is seeing about a year of oak All those berry fruits plums and herb notes malbec is known for along with the smoothness that only oak brings Kick back relax maybe cook up some steaks - enjoy About $24 CSPC +711402

Trivento 2014 Malbec Reserve Mendoza Argentina Nearly unbeatable for good malbec at a great price itrsquos rich and chocolatey on the nose with big fruits and oak tones too Mild garrigue notes or dried herb flavours with plenty of fruit and tannins - still showing a fine sense of balance Enjoy with beef $14 CSPC +730714

Luigi Bosca 2011 De Sangre Mendoza Argentina A blend of cabernet sauvignon merlot and syrah that manages to pull out the best of each varietal Earthy and slightly smoky with good fruits and plenty of versatility Tannins are well-placed against the fruits with a long smooth finish Irsquove been a fan of this wine year after year Good to keep a couple on hand in the cellar About $29 CSPC +745106

Salentein 2012 Numina Gran Corte Uco Valley Argentina A malbec-dominated Bordeaux blend this stunner is all about ripe fruits cedar pepper cherries and plum with a little tealeaf and the right amount of tannins Very very well balanced and like any great wine think about some food to go with it Beef tenderloin slow cooked meats or maybe at your next asadohellip About $40 CSPC +764706

Colonia Las Liebres 2013 Bonarda Mendoza Argentina Bear with me here - a fine bonarda with plenty of earthy smoky aromas leading to rubber charred cherries and cocoa Some pretty prominent tannins to be found as well but wow does it all come together A wine that just begs for duck with cranberries or maybe some kebabshellip$20 CSPC +773381

42

Open That Bottleby LINDA GARSON photography by INGRID KUENZEL

ldquoIf you work in a place and yoursquore miserable I donrsquot know if there is a dollar amount that can be attached to that The work that yoursquore doing has to be rewarding and challengingrdquo says Karen KhoGrowing up in Niagara Falls in a Philippino SpanishChinese family Kho was surrounded by food and drinks with an open door policy that has had a huge influence on the person she is today - an

entertainer who likes to make people feel welcome ldquoMy parents wanted me to be a lawyer there was definitely an encouragement to use my voice for goodrdquo she explains ldquoAnd I still think I help people but in a different way a very social wayrdquo

Graduating Western University with a political science degree in 2000 Kho spent a year travelling and living in Australia before taking a leap of faith and moving to Calgary Here she studied wine with the International Sommeliers Guild and WSET but says her real education was a job she adored working in the wine trade at BIN 905 in tandem with running wine programs for CRMR restaurants It was only when the opportunity came to create the wine program at Vin Room six years later that Kho leapt at the challenge of a new idea for the city and spent four happy years there

Eventually she and her partner decided to stretch their wings and went to Vancouver where Kho embarked on a six-month culinary course at the Pacific Institute of Culinary Arts ticking off another box on her bucket list ldquoI wanted a greater understanding of technique in the kitchen and I wanted an understanding of what service on a very basic level would look like if I ever owned my own place and ever had to be the person who filled inrdquo she says ldquoI feel if I was ever in a place that needed someone to chop onions Irsquom your womanrdquo she laughs

A year later the pair came back with the idea of eventually opening their own business in Calgary ldquoThe support we get from this community is heartfelt and this is a city of opportunity People with the right concept are seeing a lot of great success itrsquos still our game planrdquo she says Meanwhile Kho applied only to Teatro where she is now Group Service Director

ldquoI wanted to work at a place that had a challenging wine program and had a level of service with high expectations and where professional service teams

applyrdquo she says ldquoItrsquos pretty romantic to work for a company that has been built on a foundation of service Successful businesses in the restaurant industry get the grand picture which is the moments that yoursquore creating for people and I like to be a part of thatrdquo she adds

So what bottle is Kho saving for a special occasion

Paying homage to her time at BIN 905 Kho explains ldquoI have a bottle of 1996 Chateau Mouton Rothschild which was given to me with some very kind words on my last day at BIN Irsquove always just appreciated my time there it was where I learned the vernacular of wine and itrsquos my first job where I really saw the benefits of serving people with intentionrdquo She continues ldquoI always see it thankfully as the stepping-stone to a broader wine profession and eventually to the position that I have now It was given to me by very close friends that Irsquom still friends with to this dayrdquo

And when is she planning to open the wine

ldquoWhen (partner) Dave and I open our own restaurantrdquo Kho says This isnrsquot something that something that will happen tomorrow but fortunately the wine will last until theyrsquore ready

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28

Step By Step Go Nuts With Homemade Nutella And Waffles story and photography by NATALIE FINDLAY

There are many nutritional benefits packed into these small filberts They are rich in dietary fibre packed with folate an excellent source of vitamin E and contain mono-unsaturated fatty acids that

can help lower bad cholesterol and raise good cholesterol By making your own Nutella at home you can control the amount of sugar that is added making this delicious spread basicallyhellip a health food

Hazelnuts have a tried and true following for taking the lead role in the chocolate spread Nutella This long-standing love affair has lasted simply because they add a distinct but subtle flavour to the chocolate Truly a match that is better together than apart

These delicious and super-easy waffles make a great base for your homemade Nutella With the addition of ground hazelnuts to the batter you can deepen the hazelnut flavour and pack in more health benefits

Waffles with raspberries and white chocolate spread

29

Natalie is a freelance writer photographer and pastry chef A graduate of Cordon Bleursquos pastry program she manages her own business too to create custom-made cakes

Using the same waffle recipe from above and switching out the mashed banana and adding frac12 a medium orange ndash juice and zest ndash to the batter you have a delicious orange waffle that will highlight the white chocolate hazelnut spread recipe below

Homemade White Chocolate Hazelnut Spread Makes 1frac12 cups

1frac12 cups (200 g) whole hazelnutsfrac12 cup (70 g) icing sugar2 Tbs (30 mL) canola oil1 tsp (5 mL) vanilla extract1 cup (250g) white chocolate

Follow directions for Homemade Nutella and add the melted white chocolate at the end Pulse to combine

Macerated Raspberries with Orange Serves 6

250 g fresh raspberriesfrac12 medium orange zest and juice1 Tbs icing sugarfrac12 tsp vanilla extract

Add all ingredients into a medium bowl and stir to combine Let sit for about 1 hour

Serve your warm waffles topped with your white chocolate homemade hazelnut spread macerated berries and a dollop of whipped cream or ice cream

Note Homemade Nutella has more texture than store bought and will last around 1 month in the fridge Waffles can be made ahead and frozen Thaw and reheat in the waffle maker or the oven

Banana Fruit compoteMakes enough for 6

3 ripe bananas peeled sliced into rounds2 Tbs (30 g) butter2 Tbs (30 g) brown sugar1frac12 tsp (8 mL) vanilla extract1frac12 tsp (8 mL) bourbon

1 Add butter and sugar to a sauteacute pan over medium heat As they melt stir to combine

2 Add vanilla and bourbon than add sliced bananas and sauteacute until warmed through

Serve your warm waffles topped with your homemade hazelnut spread sauteacuteed bananas and a dollop of whipped cream or ice cream

Homemade Nutella Makes 1frac12 cups

1frac12 cups (200 g) whole hazelnutsfrac34 cup (100g) icing sugar3 Tbs (45 mL) canola oilfrac14 cup (30 g) cocoa powder1 tsp (5 mL) vanilla extract

1 Toast hazelnuts on a baking pan in a preheated 350ordm F oven for 10 - 15 minutes Keep an eye on them to make sure they donrsquot start to burn Remove from oven and let cool to the touch

2 Wrap the nuts in a kitchen towel and rub together to remove the skins This should remove most of the skins

3 Place skinless hazelnuts in a food processor on high Process the nuts until they form a smooth paste and the oils start to separate (about 5 minutes) scraping the bowl often

4 Add the icing sugar cocoa powder vanilla and canola oil to the food processor and process until fully incorporated scraping bowl of processor as needed (about 2 minutes)

Hazelnut Banana WafflesMakes 6

frac12 cup (80 g) all purpose flour1 tsp baking powderfrac12 tsp baking sodaPinch sea salt1 Tbs (15 g) icing sugar1 Tbs (10 g) ground hazelnuts6 grates whole nutmeg1 tsp ground cinnamonfrac12 cup (125 mL) buttermilk1 egg yolk2 Tbs (30 g) butter meltedfrac12 small banana peeled and mashed1 egg white

1 Sift together all dry ingredients (except the ground hazelnuts) in a medium bowl Add the ground hazelnuts and combine

2 Mash the half banana in a small bowl with a fork Add the egg buttermilk and melted butter

3 Whisk the egg white to stiff peaks

4 Whisk the wet ingredients into the dry and fold the egg white into the mixture

5 Follow the directions for your waffle pan to cook waffles for around 5 minutes or until cooked through

Note Remember to bring the waffle pan up to temperature in between each batch of waffles

Hazelnut Banana Waffles with Nutella

30

Citrus Beer Friendsby DAVID NUTTALL

This is when the taste andor aroma of a beer can remind the drinker of anything from an orange drink or lemonade to grapefruit soda There are several ways to achieve this character and these beers are becoming more and more popular every day

Hops provide the bitterness in beer and out of the literally hundreds of varieties a few impart citrus notes into the aroma and flavour Cascade and Citra are examples of two of the most popular hops used in several styles of beer most notably the American IPA or India Pale Ale Cascade hops have been around for over 40 years and it is the single most popular hop used by the American craft brewing industry It provides a floralspicy character often reminiscent of grapefruit

Citrarsquos name leaves no guessing as to its attributes A relative newcomer this cross breed of UK German and US hop varieties has been around for less than a decade but it is already an extremely popular hop for imparting

One of the great things about beer is its diversity It can come in a myriad of colours and also a wide variety of flavours citrus being one of the most distinct

Dave Nuttall has been in the liquor and event business forever He is a qualified beer judge and ownerpresident of Epicurean Calgary at epicureancalgarycom for ten years

citrus and tropical fruit characteristics to a beer

It has proven very versatile and appears in several beer styles from session ales to IPAs It has also become a favourite hop to use for dry-hopping (adding hops late into the boil) due to the exceptional aromas it produces For even more flavour and aroma craft brewers now commonly enhance these already citrusy IPAs with actual zest peel or juice from citrus fruits to create an IPAFruit Beer hybrid which sells especially well in summer months

Then there is the yeast and many varieties of yeast can produce citrusy esters The unfiltered hefeweizens brewed on both sides of the Atlantic quite often have a lemony flavour Sour beers also showcase the yeast often cultured from Belgian strains

These beers are tart and produce a gamut of flavours many with citrus qualities and some have added fruit - the easiest and most obvious way to create a citrusy beer The Belgians also add different kinds of oranges with spice additions to their wheat ales to create wit beers now emulated all over the world with different citrus (and other) fruits involved in the recipe We also canrsquot forget the radlers which are simply a lager beer mixed with 40-60 fruit juice - often grapefruit or lemonade

Whether itrsquos added fruit the yeast the hops or a combination of all of them citrusy beers are commonplace now Thanks to new hops like Citra and the increasing popularity of wits and sours we can expect this trend to continue

Here are a few local beers with hints of citrus All are also available on tap

Beer comes in a myriad of colours and flavours citrus being one of the

most distinct

Ribstone Creek Great White CombineThis tiny Edgerton Alberta brewery has been knocking it out of the park lately Named after the ubiquitous Alberta summer hailstorm the use of Belgian yeast sweet orange peel and coriander give this beer an orange flavour in the beginning When the four different hop additions kick in it changes more to a sweet lemony flavour This White IPA has a very tropical feel that makes you forget it was made in northern Alberta CSPC +774162 $16 6-pack cans

Wild Rose Cowbell Sour ales are the new Belle of the Ball at craft breweries Often using imported Belgian yeast strains they are tart tangy and wellhellip sour Calgaryrsquos Wild Rose has taken this flavour profile and added kaffir lime leaves This makes the beer more like a refreshing limeade and is less bitter than many of its other sour counterparts CSPC +778093 $17 6-pack bottles

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Citradelic Single Hop IPA Big Rock BreweryWith breweries in two (soon to be three) provinces Big Rock now has multiple locations to develop new beers This is the first one from their Vancouver brewery and is full of lemongrapefruit flavours and tropical aromas This beer showcases the Citra hop fooling one to think that citrus has been added when itrsquos all thanks to the hop CSPC +778593 $15 6-pack bottles

Alley Kat Main SqueezeWhat started out as a summer seasonal has now become a mainstay of this Edmonton brewery A North American style wheat ale with a 50 wheat and 50 barley mix it has added grapefruit juice but tastes more along the lines of pink grapefruit rather than its more bitter cousin CSPC +733630 $17 6-pack bottles

32

story by RENEE KOHLMAN

Cheesecake is one of those classic desserts that almost everyone loves unless of course you have a dairy allergy then yoursquoll stay far far away from it While it may seem too complicated to make at home I assure you that itrsquos not

Spice it up cheesecake

Sure there are a few steps involved but the key thing to remember is to have your eggs and cream cheese at room temperature For the best crack-free cheesecake itrsquos best to bake it in a water bath It yields a light creamy texture and is well worth the effort Cheesecake always tastes better the next day so bake it the day before you want to serve it Now that wersquove got the basics down itrsquos time to have a little fun with the crust filling and toppings

The Base

The classic graham cracker crust is fine but every now and again itrsquos great to switch things up Try

ndash Grinding up ginger cookies They work especially well for a pumpkin cheesecake

ndash Chocolate cookie crumbs are fantastic for caramel peanut butter and raspberry cheesecakes

ndash Add finely chopped nuts oats or seeds to the cookie crumbs for added texture and taste

The Middle

Therersquos something to be said for a straight up vanilla or chocolate cheesecake but with some fun add-ins they could take your cheesecake to the next level of deliciousness Try

ndash Swirling tahini dulce de leche salted caramel or chocolate fudge sauce into a creamy vanilla filling

ndash Mix in chopped chocolate peanut butter cups to a chocolate filling

ndash Drop fresh berries (raspberries blueberries blackberries) on top of a vanilla filling

ndash Stir in chopped candied ginger dried cherries or cranberries chopped toasted nuts to the filling

ndash Swap some of the cream cheese with ricotta mascarpone cheese or even strained cottage cheese

ndash You can never go wrong with lemon zest in a vanilla cheesecake

Have a little fun with the crust filling

and toppings

33

Apple Crumble CheesecakeMakes about 12-14 servings Total cook and prep time 3 hours (plus overnight chilling)

I love apple crisp and I love cheesecake This recipe is a fine marriage of both and makes a more than acceptable breakfast The base is a crumble of oats and flour the middle is classic cheesecake and itrsquos topped with cinnamon apples and a buttery oat streusel

Crust 2 cups large flake oats1 cup all purpose flour cup packed brown sugarfrac34 cup butter meltedfrac12 tsp salt

Cheesecake Layer3 - 225 g packages cream cheese at room temperature cup granulated sugar1 tsp (5 mL) vanilla3 large eggs at room temperature cup (80 mL) whipping cream

Apple Layer2 apples peeled cored and sliced about 3-4 mm thick1 tsp ground cinnamonfrac12 tsp salt

Streusel Layer1 cup large flake oatsfrac12 cup all-purpose flourfrac12 cup brown sugarfrac12 cup butter softened1 tsp ground cinnamon

Preheat the oven to 375ordm F

1 Butter the bottom and sides of a 9-inch springform pan with sides that are at least 7 cm high Wrap the bottom of the pan in aluminum foil so it comes at least halfway up the sides

2 Combine the crust ingredients in a large bowl Press the crust evenly into the pan and place on a baking sheet Bake for 10 minutes Remove from oven and let it cool on a wire rack

3 Reduce heat to 325ordm F Put a kettle of water on to boil Have a large roasting pan close by

4 Using a stand mixer with a paddle attachment beat the cream cheese at medium speed for 4 minutes scraping down the sides once or twice until it is soft and creamy With the mixer still running add the sugar and beat for another 4 minutes scraping down the sides of the bowl at least twice Beat in the vanilla Add the eggs one at a time beating for 1 minute after each addition and scraping the bowl Reduce speed to low and add the whipping cream

5 Toss the sliced apples with the cinnamon and salt in a small bowl Combine all of the streusel ingredients in a medium bowl and mix well

6 Place the springform pan in the roasting pan Give the cheesecake batter a good stir and pour it on top of the crust Arrange the apples on top and sprinkle the streusel on top of the apples

7 Place in the oven on the middle rack and pour the hot water into the roasting pan so it comes halfway up the sides of the springform pan

8 Bake the cheesecake for 1frac12 hours Turn off the heat prop open the oven door and let the cheesecake hang inside for another hour

9 Carefully remove from the oven and take out the cheesecake from the hot water bath Remove the foil and let the cheesecake come to room temperature on a wire rack Cover the top lightly and refrigerate for at least 4 hours but overnight is best The next day remove the sides of the pan and serve the cake

Renee is a food writer and pastry chef living in beautiful Saskatoon Saskatchewan Her columns appear in The Saskatoon StarPhoenix and her desserts can be enjoyed at Riverside Country Club Also check out her blog wwwsweetsugarbeancom

The Toppings

Cheesecake with no fun toppings is like a salad with no dressing it just doesnrsquot reach its full flavour potential Try

ndash Salted caramel roasted strawberry sauce or warm chocolate sauce

ndash A rhubarbcardamom compote is divine on top of vanilla cheesecake kissed with a bit of lemon zest Cherry compote is divine with chocolate cheesecake

ndash Have a favourite jam Melt it down with a tiny bit of water and drizzle it on top of your favourite cheesecake

ndash Candied nuts and citrus rind chocolate shavings even crumbled cookies are a fun way to add texture to the cheesecake

ndash Never underestimate the power of fresh seasonal berries and a well-made cheesecakeMacerate them in a little sugar and minced mint or basil and they make a lovely topping Donrsquot forget the whipped cream

34

Think about that for a moment and let that sink in like a cherry in your drink

So how old is ice in bars Well thatrsquos a whole story on its own however the Old Fashioned has been talked about in one form or another since the beginning of the 19th Century The first appearance of this classic cocktail was in the Balance and Columbian Repository newspaper in 1806 as such ldquoA stimulating liquor composed of spirits of any kind sugar water and bittersrdquo

The Old FashionedAn Iconic Drink That Has Stood The Test Of Time

by BRICE PERESSINI

Sohelliphow old is the Old Fashioned The Old Fashioned is as old as ice in bars

When you follow these instructions and put this finely-crafted cocktail into your hand swirl around the ice gaze through the caramel-coloured liquid in the glass and contemplate all that has gone into it you can rest assured you are holding a drink that has delighted taste buds for generations The Old Fashioned however has not always been held in high regard There was a time not too long ago where this fine concoction was an unbalanced fruity watered-down pale imitation of itself More recently

there has been a renaissance involved with this invigorating intoxicant and you can and should expect a proper cocktail when it is ordered at a fine establishment

When this drink is properly prepared it should be in perfect balance (as any proper drink should be) The sweetness of the sugar should not cover the flavour of the bourbon and the bitters should add to not overpower the flavour of the whiskey When the Old Fashioned is well made it is as close to cocktail perfection as a sophisticated patron could expect

Befriend a bespoke barkeep at an upstanding establishment and you will be in trusted hands If you find yourself at home and wanting for a nightcap look no further than the Old Fashioned

Enjoy friends

Old Fashioned Recipe

2 oz Buffalo Trace Bourbon (or your personal favourite)4 dashes Angostura Aromatic Bitters1 raw sugar cube

Muddle the sugar and bitters together with a touch of warm water in a rocks glass Add the bourbon then add ice Stir and garnish with an orange peel and cherry (optional)

Brice is a competition cocktail bartender who plies his trade behind the wood at Chefbar Whisk(e)y is his poison Neat

35

Shoulder Season Wines

by JACLYN ADOMEIT

Wines For Cool Weather

Refreshing white wines match with sunny patios and hot days while bold tannic red wines earn their keep by a fireplace on a winter night Common sense But what about the shoulder season What if yoursquore eating sea bass on a rainy spring day Or sipping wine on a patio during an uncommonly warm April afternoon

Photograph courtesy Tom Firth

36

Wine not only pairs with food but with temperatures and seasons A bright sauvignon blanc can taste flat and acidic on a cold night at no fault of the wine or the drinker Some white wines are other-worldly at the vineyard tasting room in the summer but fall flat when you pull them out for dinner guests in the winter

The change in taste is likely due to a number of factors Anatomically it is your sinus cavities creating the change Higher atmospheric pressures allow your nose to pick out subtle aromas while lower pressures bring out a winersquos acidity and harsh tannins CO2 degasses from liquid at low pressure leaving wines dull and flat too

Serving temperature can greatly affect a winersquos aromatics white wines chilled to near-freezing have dull aromas (Tip allow the bottle a half hour on the counter before popping the cork This will allow the aromatics to warm up enhancing the flavour)

Lastly your own palate will be partial to different flavours depending on sun snow wind and sleet but as a rule of thumb higher alcohol white wines (approximately 13 percent or more) will warm the soul and pair best with cooler weather

Here are some wine selections to go for when it is not too hot and not too cold so you can choose a pairing thatrsquos just right

Fiano

Yoursquoll notice that many of the best white wines for cold weather are grown in hot places Hot climates mean a longer growing season more sugar which leads to higher alcohol and often more robust and tropical flavours All of this is true for fiano - seldom grown outside of Campania in southern Italy Fiano produces age-worthy wines which are rich nutty and delicious

Feudi Di San Gregorio 2014 Campania Fiano di Avellino Italy A beautiful floral bouquet with candied lemon followed by honey-coated hazelnuts on the palate Worth cellaring for a few seasons The perfect dance partner for poultry CSPC +708589 $33

Viognier

Viognier is a white varietal that is best consumed at slightly higher temperatures A chilly glass of viognier will leave you with acid maybe oak and not much else Allow it to warm and you may experience peach pear and toasted almond

Traditionally grown in the warm south of France viognier is often a higher alcohol white wine with rich tropical flavours The heat of the alcohol with tropical flavours and lower acid makes viognier the perfect wine to sip while watching a late spring snowfall

Paul Mas 2014 Languedoc-Roussillon Viognier France Brimming with apricot almond lemon and ripe peach Contains hints of warming oak Pair with something savoury baked brie or spinach-filled puff pastry CSPC + 740978 $17

Dry Roseacute

There is so much more to be had from roseacute than white zinfandel And no itrsquos not just a mix of red and white wine The best roseacute is made from red skinned grapes that only sit on their skins for up to a day and a half to borrow colour and flavour then are fermented and processed

Refined examples of roseacute wines are often dry and have deep aromas of red fruits mild tannins and are savoury instead of sweet The French and Spanish craft great examples of dry roseacutes that are either a single varietal or a blend of grapes such as mourvegravedre grenache syrah or tempranillo

Muga Roseacute 2014 Rioja Grenache Viura and Tempranillo Spain A tamed Rioja Orange blossom woven together with strawberry and a palate of cherry and savoury soft cheese Ideal for charcuterie CSPC + 710261 $16

Orange Wine

Never heard of orange wine A commercial demand for natural wines has fostered a resurgence in ancient wine making practices While roseacute wines are reds that have been produced using white wine making practices orange wines are created from white grapes submitted to maceration and allowed to sit on the skins before fermentation the same practice employed in red winemaking

Unlike any white you have tasted orange wines are full-bodied have mild tannins and deep flavours - the characteristics that allow red wines to bring warmth to cool nights A must try for any wine buff

Allow the bottle a half hour on the counter

before popping the cork

The Bicicleta wines are characterized by their fruity expression and for offering more than

the traditional strains a clear example of this range`s innovation style and creativity

Cono Sur Vineyards amp Winery ConoSurVineyards ConoSurWinesconosurcom

The brewhouse at Wild Rose

Jaclynrsquos first passion was winemaking Shersquos worked in vineyards cellars and restaurants Currently she is a writer who daylights as an environmental engineer She believes that a good life like a good wine is not complete without balance

Nichol 2013 Naramata Pinot Gris Canada A Canadian example of orange wine with backbone Flavours of caramel apple roast nuts orange rind and peach CSPC +504159 $31

Oaked chardonnay

In and out with popular palates oak and chardonnay have been partners for a long time Oak paired with chardonnay can bring out butter richness toasted vanilla tree fruit and in the best examples shimmering minerality That is because oak aging is often accompanied by a malolactic fermentation process that smooths out rigid acids into lactic acid - the acid found in milk

Chardonnay is a grape of many talents and encounters a great diversity of production styles It is oaked examples that pair best with pensive rainy days They are full-bodied warming and complex

Wente Morning Fog 2014 Livermore Valley (California) Chardonnay USA Half oak-aged and malolactic-fermented half crisp and fresh this chardonnay brings together green apple vanilla and toasted oak A friend to cream sauce and roast chicken CSPC +175430 $18

In a province of mutable weather let your wine choices be as varied as the ever changing winds Cheers and herersquos to refined full-bodied cool-weather wines

38

Once yoursquore done with your magazine cover shoot like we did this month or prepping for dinner and have all of those odds and ends just sitting on the cutting board - you know carrot ends onion skins tips of celery stalks you get the point - donrsquot toss lsquoem

Instead place them into a large ziploc bag and straight into the freezer After a couple of weeks yoursquoll likely have four full freezer bags of vegetable bits ready to be turned into broth and herersquos how you do it

Making a big batch of vegetable broth doesnrsquot always mean a trip to the grocery store All you need to do is save those scraps This is a handy trick I learned years ago courtesy of Bon Appetit

No-Waste Vegetable Broth

by DAN CLAPSON

Odds And Ends BrothYields 8 cups (2 L)

12 cups (3 L) water4 full ziploc bags of vegetable trimmings1 yellow onion quartered4 cloves garlicAromatics of choice (I usually toss a couple of rosemary and thyme sprigs in there)To taste Salt and pepper

1 Place all ingredients in a large pot and bring to a boil on medium-high heat

2 Reduce to medium heat and let simmer uncovered for 1frac12 hours

3 Strain season to taste with salt and pepper and use as desired

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40

Salentein 2012 Reserve Chardonnay Uco Valley Argentina

Very very enjoyable chardonnay blowing me away with complexity varietal character and fine balance between oak lees and fruit Toffee baked apple tangerine and a little almond on the nose lead into silkily textured wine in the mouth Top shelf chardonnay that might be great with lobster tails mussels or poultry Around $20 CSPC +779479

Rutini 2013 Cabernet Malbec Mendoza Argentina

An exceptionally well put together blend - if you want rich berry fruits lots of body but maybe not tons of varietal characters from the individual components Lifted and bright fruits make for a very enjoyable glass Simply perfect for your next barbecue a roast or just chilling out with friends and family $26-30 CSPC +776822

Vinecol 2014 Organic Malbec Mendoza Argentina Fair Trade organic and vegan along with a good price is it still good Piles of fresh fruits (think smashed raspberries) with plenty of spice and soft herb-leaf aromas There are plenty of malbec flavours on the palate too Good for any day of the week with just a little tension between fruit tannin and acid it might be best with pub style burgers pulled pork or sausages About $16 CSPC +755296

Argentina is so much more than malbec While such a noble grape has found its best home in the high altitude vineyards of Argentina there is a lot going on with other grapes as well

Making The Case For Argentina

by TOM FIRTH

This massive country nestled up against the Andes mountains has a range of growing conditions suited to a number of grapes From Salta in the north to Patagonia in the south plenty of interesting wines are available here - many reasonably priced and of excellent quality So yes there are some

malbecs on these pages but please do try some of the other grapes and blends coming from Argentina too

Be sure to crack open a bottle of malbec on ldquoWorld Malbec Dayrdquo April 17 - who knows it might be nice enough to barbecue too

Photograph courtesy Tom Firth

41

Manos Negras 2011 Stone Soil Select Mendoza Argentina Quite new to the market this is a pretty enjoyable version of Argentinarsquos flagship grape Loads of blue fruit and raspberries with spices galore and a little compost Rich flavours lead to a lengthy spicy finish Yes please Bring to a barbecue if you can $21 CSPC +630541

Zuccardi 2012 Zeta Mendoza Argentina

A malbec-cabernet sauvignon blend that is also a blend of two different Mendoza appellations La Consulta and Gualtallary Deep and abundant fruit aromas with liquorice root and a touch of blueberry preserves Excellent balance of flavours on the palate too with the right structure and tannin for aging if desired Enjoy with a prime rib or even meaty pasta dishes or game $50-52 CSPC +740270

Zuccardi 2012 ldquoEmmardquo Bonarda Mendoza Argentina

In my humble opinion one of the finest bonardas coming out of Argentina Notes of coffee bean and espresso complement cherry and blackberry fruits with healthy balanced tannins to stand up to the tart fruits Delicious for sure enjoy at your next barbecue $40 CSPC +758407

Luigi Bosca 2011 Cabernet-Malbec Mendoza Argentina

A wonderfully earthy and savoury blend with plenty of tobacco spice leather and yes lots of fruit too The earthy flavours work well with the big dark chocolate flavours and weighty tannins Drink now or through 2020 or so - with a steak naturally $22-24 CSPC +766010

Trivento 2013 Golden Reserve Malbec Lujan de Cuyo Argentina While there is a trend to see a lot of premium malbecs move away from oak presence this one is a bold smooth and delicious example that is seeing about a year of oak All those berry fruits plums and herb notes malbec is known for along with the smoothness that only oak brings Kick back relax maybe cook up some steaks - enjoy About $24 CSPC +711402

Trivento 2014 Malbec Reserve Mendoza Argentina Nearly unbeatable for good malbec at a great price itrsquos rich and chocolatey on the nose with big fruits and oak tones too Mild garrigue notes or dried herb flavours with plenty of fruit and tannins - still showing a fine sense of balance Enjoy with beef $14 CSPC +730714

Luigi Bosca 2011 De Sangre Mendoza Argentina A blend of cabernet sauvignon merlot and syrah that manages to pull out the best of each varietal Earthy and slightly smoky with good fruits and plenty of versatility Tannins are well-placed against the fruits with a long smooth finish Irsquove been a fan of this wine year after year Good to keep a couple on hand in the cellar About $29 CSPC +745106

Salentein 2012 Numina Gran Corte Uco Valley Argentina A malbec-dominated Bordeaux blend this stunner is all about ripe fruits cedar pepper cherries and plum with a little tealeaf and the right amount of tannins Very very well balanced and like any great wine think about some food to go with it Beef tenderloin slow cooked meats or maybe at your next asadohellip About $40 CSPC +764706

Colonia Las Liebres 2013 Bonarda Mendoza Argentina Bear with me here - a fine bonarda with plenty of earthy smoky aromas leading to rubber charred cherries and cocoa Some pretty prominent tannins to be found as well but wow does it all come together A wine that just begs for duck with cranberries or maybe some kebabshellip$20 CSPC +773381

42

Open That Bottleby LINDA GARSON photography by INGRID KUENZEL

ldquoIf you work in a place and yoursquore miserable I donrsquot know if there is a dollar amount that can be attached to that The work that yoursquore doing has to be rewarding and challengingrdquo says Karen KhoGrowing up in Niagara Falls in a Philippino SpanishChinese family Kho was surrounded by food and drinks with an open door policy that has had a huge influence on the person she is today - an

entertainer who likes to make people feel welcome ldquoMy parents wanted me to be a lawyer there was definitely an encouragement to use my voice for goodrdquo she explains ldquoAnd I still think I help people but in a different way a very social wayrdquo

Graduating Western University with a political science degree in 2000 Kho spent a year travelling and living in Australia before taking a leap of faith and moving to Calgary Here she studied wine with the International Sommeliers Guild and WSET but says her real education was a job she adored working in the wine trade at BIN 905 in tandem with running wine programs for CRMR restaurants It was only when the opportunity came to create the wine program at Vin Room six years later that Kho leapt at the challenge of a new idea for the city and spent four happy years there

Eventually she and her partner decided to stretch their wings and went to Vancouver where Kho embarked on a six-month culinary course at the Pacific Institute of Culinary Arts ticking off another box on her bucket list ldquoI wanted a greater understanding of technique in the kitchen and I wanted an understanding of what service on a very basic level would look like if I ever owned my own place and ever had to be the person who filled inrdquo she says ldquoI feel if I was ever in a place that needed someone to chop onions Irsquom your womanrdquo she laughs

A year later the pair came back with the idea of eventually opening their own business in Calgary ldquoThe support we get from this community is heartfelt and this is a city of opportunity People with the right concept are seeing a lot of great success itrsquos still our game planrdquo she says Meanwhile Kho applied only to Teatro where she is now Group Service Director

ldquoI wanted to work at a place that had a challenging wine program and had a level of service with high expectations and where professional service teams

applyrdquo she says ldquoItrsquos pretty romantic to work for a company that has been built on a foundation of service Successful businesses in the restaurant industry get the grand picture which is the moments that yoursquore creating for people and I like to be a part of thatrdquo she adds

So what bottle is Kho saving for a special occasion

Paying homage to her time at BIN 905 Kho explains ldquoI have a bottle of 1996 Chateau Mouton Rothschild which was given to me with some very kind words on my last day at BIN Irsquove always just appreciated my time there it was where I learned the vernacular of wine and itrsquos my first job where I really saw the benefits of serving people with intentionrdquo She continues ldquoI always see it thankfully as the stepping-stone to a broader wine profession and eventually to the position that I have now It was given to me by very close friends that Irsquom still friends with to this dayrdquo

And when is she planning to open the wine

ldquoWhen (partner) Dave and I open our own restaurantrdquo Kho says This isnrsquot something that something that will happen tomorrow but fortunately the wine will last until theyrsquore ready

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29

Natalie is a freelance writer photographer and pastry chef A graduate of Cordon Bleursquos pastry program she manages her own business too to create custom-made cakes

Using the same waffle recipe from above and switching out the mashed banana and adding frac12 a medium orange ndash juice and zest ndash to the batter you have a delicious orange waffle that will highlight the white chocolate hazelnut spread recipe below

Homemade White Chocolate Hazelnut Spread Makes 1frac12 cups

1frac12 cups (200 g) whole hazelnutsfrac12 cup (70 g) icing sugar2 Tbs (30 mL) canola oil1 tsp (5 mL) vanilla extract1 cup (250g) white chocolate

Follow directions for Homemade Nutella and add the melted white chocolate at the end Pulse to combine

Macerated Raspberries with Orange Serves 6

250 g fresh raspberriesfrac12 medium orange zest and juice1 Tbs icing sugarfrac12 tsp vanilla extract

Add all ingredients into a medium bowl and stir to combine Let sit for about 1 hour

Serve your warm waffles topped with your white chocolate homemade hazelnut spread macerated berries and a dollop of whipped cream or ice cream

Note Homemade Nutella has more texture than store bought and will last around 1 month in the fridge Waffles can be made ahead and frozen Thaw and reheat in the waffle maker or the oven

Banana Fruit compoteMakes enough for 6

3 ripe bananas peeled sliced into rounds2 Tbs (30 g) butter2 Tbs (30 g) brown sugar1frac12 tsp (8 mL) vanilla extract1frac12 tsp (8 mL) bourbon

1 Add butter and sugar to a sauteacute pan over medium heat As they melt stir to combine

2 Add vanilla and bourbon than add sliced bananas and sauteacute until warmed through

Serve your warm waffles topped with your homemade hazelnut spread sauteacuteed bananas and a dollop of whipped cream or ice cream

Homemade Nutella Makes 1frac12 cups

1frac12 cups (200 g) whole hazelnutsfrac34 cup (100g) icing sugar3 Tbs (45 mL) canola oilfrac14 cup (30 g) cocoa powder1 tsp (5 mL) vanilla extract

1 Toast hazelnuts on a baking pan in a preheated 350ordm F oven for 10 - 15 minutes Keep an eye on them to make sure they donrsquot start to burn Remove from oven and let cool to the touch

2 Wrap the nuts in a kitchen towel and rub together to remove the skins This should remove most of the skins

3 Place skinless hazelnuts in a food processor on high Process the nuts until they form a smooth paste and the oils start to separate (about 5 minutes) scraping the bowl often

4 Add the icing sugar cocoa powder vanilla and canola oil to the food processor and process until fully incorporated scraping bowl of processor as needed (about 2 minutes)

Hazelnut Banana WafflesMakes 6

frac12 cup (80 g) all purpose flour1 tsp baking powderfrac12 tsp baking sodaPinch sea salt1 Tbs (15 g) icing sugar1 Tbs (10 g) ground hazelnuts6 grates whole nutmeg1 tsp ground cinnamonfrac12 cup (125 mL) buttermilk1 egg yolk2 Tbs (30 g) butter meltedfrac12 small banana peeled and mashed1 egg white

1 Sift together all dry ingredients (except the ground hazelnuts) in a medium bowl Add the ground hazelnuts and combine

2 Mash the half banana in a small bowl with a fork Add the egg buttermilk and melted butter

3 Whisk the egg white to stiff peaks

4 Whisk the wet ingredients into the dry and fold the egg white into the mixture

5 Follow the directions for your waffle pan to cook waffles for around 5 minutes or until cooked through

Note Remember to bring the waffle pan up to temperature in between each batch of waffles

Hazelnut Banana Waffles with Nutella

30

Citrus Beer Friendsby DAVID NUTTALL

This is when the taste andor aroma of a beer can remind the drinker of anything from an orange drink or lemonade to grapefruit soda There are several ways to achieve this character and these beers are becoming more and more popular every day

Hops provide the bitterness in beer and out of the literally hundreds of varieties a few impart citrus notes into the aroma and flavour Cascade and Citra are examples of two of the most popular hops used in several styles of beer most notably the American IPA or India Pale Ale Cascade hops have been around for over 40 years and it is the single most popular hop used by the American craft brewing industry It provides a floralspicy character often reminiscent of grapefruit

Citrarsquos name leaves no guessing as to its attributes A relative newcomer this cross breed of UK German and US hop varieties has been around for less than a decade but it is already an extremely popular hop for imparting

One of the great things about beer is its diversity It can come in a myriad of colours and also a wide variety of flavours citrus being one of the most distinct

Dave Nuttall has been in the liquor and event business forever He is a qualified beer judge and ownerpresident of Epicurean Calgary at epicureancalgarycom for ten years

citrus and tropical fruit characteristics to a beer

It has proven very versatile and appears in several beer styles from session ales to IPAs It has also become a favourite hop to use for dry-hopping (adding hops late into the boil) due to the exceptional aromas it produces For even more flavour and aroma craft brewers now commonly enhance these already citrusy IPAs with actual zest peel or juice from citrus fruits to create an IPAFruit Beer hybrid which sells especially well in summer months

Then there is the yeast and many varieties of yeast can produce citrusy esters The unfiltered hefeweizens brewed on both sides of the Atlantic quite often have a lemony flavour Sour beers also showcase the yeast often cultured from Belgian strains

These beers are tart and produce a gamut of flavours many with citrus qualities and some have added fruit - the easiest and most obvious way to create a citrusy beer The Belgians also add different kinds of oranges with spice additions to their wheat ales to create wit beers now emulated all over the world with different citrus (and other) fruits involved in the recipe We also canrsquot forget the radlers which are simply a lager beer mixed with 40-60 fruit juice - often grapefruit or lemonade

Whether itrsquos added fruit the yeast the hops or a combination of all of them citrusy beers are commonplace now Thanks to new hops like Citra and the increasing popularity of wits and sours we can expect this trend to continue

Here are a few local beers with hints of citrus All are also available on tap

Beer comes in a myriad of colours and flavours citrus being one of the

most distinct

Ribstone Creek Great White CombineThis tiny Edgerton Alberta brewery has been knocking it out of the park lately Named after the ubiquitous Alberta summer hailstorm the use of Belgian yeast sweet orange peel and coriander give this beer an orange flavour in the beginning When the four different hop additions kick in it changes more to a sweet lemony flavour This White IPA has a very tropical feel that makes you forget it was made in northern Alberta CSPC +774162 $16 6-pack cans

Wild Rose Cowbell Sour ales are the new Belle of the Ball at craft breweries Often using imported Belgian yeast strains they are tart tangy and wellhellip sour Calgaryrsquos Wild Rose has taken this flavour profile and added kaffir lime leaves This makes the beer more like a refreshing limeade and is less bitter than many of its other sour counterparts CSPC +778093 $17 6-pack bottles

calgary internationalbeerfest

beerfestival

western

canadaslargest

VENUEBMO CENTRE STAMPEDE PARK

TICKETS AVAILABLE AT ALBERTABEERFESTIVALSCOM

MAY 6-7 2016FRIDAY3-10 PM BEER GEEK VIP4-10 PM GENERAL ADMISSION

SATURDAY1-9 PM BEER GEEK VIP 2-9 PM GENERAL ADMISSION

PROUDLYPRESENTED BY

ABBEERFESTIVALS

save 15USE PROMO CODE

CUL15

Citradelic Single Hop IPA Big Rock BreweryWith breweries in two (soon to be three) provinces Big Rock now has multiple locations to develop new beers This is the first one from their Vancouver brewery and is full of lemongrapefruit flavours and tropical aromas This beer showcases the Citra hop fooling one to think that citrus has been added when itrsquos all thanks to the hop CSPC +778593 $15 6-pack bottles

Alley Kat Main SqueezeWhat started out as a summer seasonal has now become a mainstay of this Edmonton brewery A North American style wheat ale with a 50 wheat and 50 barley mix it has added grapefruit juice but tastes more along the lines of pink grapefruit rather than its more bitter cousin CSPC +733630 $17 6-pack bottles

32

story by RENEE KOHLMAN

Cheesecake is one of those classic desserts that almost everyone loves unless of course you have a dairy allergy then yoursquoll stay far far away from it While it may seem too complicated to make at home I assure you that itrsquos not

Spice it up cheesecake

Sure there are a few steps involved but the key thing to remember is to have your eggs and cream cheese at room temperature For the best crack-free cheesecake itrsquos best to bake it in a water bath It yields a light creamy texture and is well worth the effort Cheesecake always tastes better the next day so bake it the day before you want to serve it Now that wersquove got the basics down itrsquos time to have a little fun with the crust filling and toppings

The Base

The classic graham cracker crust is fine but every now and again itrsquos great to switch things up Try

ndash Grinding up ginger cookies They work especially well for a pumpkin cheesecake

ndash Chocolate cookie crumbs are fantastic for caramel peanut butter and raspberry cheesecakes

ndash Add finely chopped nuts oats or seeds to the cookie crumbs for added texture and taste

The Middle

Therersquos something to be said for a straight up vanilla or chocolate cheesecake but with some fun add-ins they could take your cheesecake to the next level of deliciousness Try

ndash Swirling tahini dulce de leche salted caramel or chocolate fudge sauce into a creamy vanilla filling

ndash Mix in chopped chocolate peanut butter cups to a chocolate filling

ndash Drop fresh berries (raspberries blueberries blackberries) on top of a vanilla filling

ndash Stir in chopped candied ginger dried cherries or cranberries chopped toasted nuts to the filling

ndash Swap some of the cream cheese with ricotta mascarpone cheese or even strained cottage cheese

ndash You can never go wrong with lemon zest in a vanilla cheesecake

Have a little fun with the crust filling

and toppings

33

Apple Crumble CheesecakeMakes about 12-14 servings Total cook and prep time 3 hours (plus overnight chilling)

I love apple crisp and I love cheesecake This recipe is a fine marriage of both and makes a more than acceptable breakfast The base is a crumble of oats and flour the middle is classic cheesecake and itrsquos topped with cinnamon apples and a buttery oat streusel

Crust 2 cups large flake oats1 cup all purpose flour cup packed brown sugarfrac34 cup butter meltedfrac12 tsp salt

Cheesecake Layer3 - 225 g packages cream cheese at room temperature cup granulated sugar1 tsp (5 mL) vanilla3 large eggs at room temperature cup (80 mL) whipping cream

Apple Layer2 apples peeled cored and sliced about 3-4 mm thick1 tsp ground cinnamonfrac12 tsp salt

Streusel Layer1 cup large flake oatsfrac12 cup all-purpose flourfrac12 cup brown sugarfrac12 cup butter softened1 tsp ground cinnamon

Preheat the oven to 375ordm F

1 Butter the bottom and sides of a 9-inch springform pan with sides that are at least 7 cm high Wrap the bottom of the pan in aluminum foil so it comes at least halfway up the sides

2 Combine the crust ingredients in a large bowl Press the crust evenly into the pan and place on a baking sheet Bake for 10 minutes Remove from oven and let it cool on a wire rack

3 Reduce heat to 325ordm F Put a kettle of water on to boil Have a large roasting pan close by

4 Using a stand mixer with a paddle attachment beat the cream cheese at medium speed for 4 minutes scraping down the sides once or twice until it is soft and creamy With the mixer still running add the sugar and beat for another 4 minutes scraping down the sides of the bowl at least twice Beat in the vanilla Add the eggs one at a time beating for 1 minute after each addition and scraping the bowl Reduce speed to low and add the whipping cream

5 Toss the sliced apples with the cinnamon and salt in a small bowl Combine all of the streusel ingredients in a medium bowl and mix well

6 Place the springform pan in the roasting pan Give the cheesecake batter a good stir and pour it on top of the crust Arrange the apples on top and sprinkle the streusel on top of the apples

7 Place in the oven on the middle rack and pour the hot water into the roasting pan so it comes halfway up the sides of the springform pan

8 Bake the cheesecake for 1frac12 hours Turn off the heat prop open the oven door and let the cheesecake hang inside for another hour

9 Carefully remove from the oven and take out the cheesecake from the hot water bath Remove the foil and let the cheesecake come to room temperature on a wire rack Cover the top lightly and refrigerate for at least 4 hours but overnight is best The next day remove the sides of the pan and serve the cake

Renee is a food writer and pastry chef living in beautiful Saskatoon Saskatchewan Her columns appear in The Saskatoon StarPhoenix and her desserts can be enjoyed at Riverside Country Club Also check out her blog wwwsweetsugarbeancom

The Toppings

Cheesecake with no fun toppings is like a salad with no dressing it just doesnrsquot reach its full flavour potential Try

ndash Salted caramel roasted strawberry sauce or warm chocolate sauce

ndash A rhubarbcardamom compote is divine on top of vanilla cheesecake kissed with a bit of lemon zest Cherry compote is divine with chocolate cheesecake

ndash Have a favourite jam Melt it down with a tiny bit of water and drizzle it on top of your favourite cheesecake

ndash Candied nuts and citrus rind chocolate shavings even crumbled cookies are a fun way to add texture to the cheesecake

ndash Never underestimate the power of fresh seasonal berries and a well-made cheesecakeMacerate them in a little sugar and minced mint or basil and they make a lovely topping Donrsquot forget the whipped cream

34

Think about that for a moment and let that sink in like a cherry in your drink

So how old is ice in bars Well thatrsquos a whole story on its own however the Old Fashioned has been talked about in one form or another since the beginning of the 19th Century The first appearance of this classic cocktail was in the Balance and Columbian Repository newspaper in 1806 as such ldquoA stimulating liquor composed of spirits of any kind sugar water and bittersrdquo

The Old FashionedAn Iconic Drink That Has Stood The Test Of Time

by BRICE PERESSINI

Sohelliphow old is the Old Fashioned The Old Fashioned is as old as ice in bars

When you follow these instructions and put this finely-crafted cocktail into your hand swirl around the ice gaze through the caramel-coloured liquid in the glass and contemplate all that has gone into it you can rest assured you are holding a drink that has delighted taste buds for generations The Old Fashioned however has not always been held in high regard There was a time not too long ago where this fine concoction was an unbalanced fruity watered-down pale imitation of itself More recently

there has been a renaissance involved with this invigorating intoxicant and you can and should expect a proper cocktail when it is ordered at a fine establishment

When this drink is properly prepared it should be in perfect balance (as any proper drink should be) The sweetness of the sugar should not cover the flavour of the bourbon and the bitters should add to not overpower the flavour of the whiskey When the Old Fashioned is well made it is as close to cocktail perfection as a sophisticated patron could expect

Befriend a bespoke barkeep at an upstanding establishment and you will be in trusted hands If you find yourself at home and wanting for a nightcap look no further than the Old Fashioned

Enjoy friends

Old Fashioned Recipe

2 oz Buffalo Trace Bourbon (or your personal favourite)4 dashes Angostura Aromatic Bitters1 raw sugar cube

Muddle the sugar and bitters together with a touch of warm water in a rocks glass Add the bourbon then add ice Stir and garnish with an orange peel and cherry (optional)

Brice is a competition cocktail bartender who plies his trade behind the wood at Chefbar Whisk(e)y is his poison Neat

35

Shoulder Season Wines

by JACLYN ADOMEIT

Wines For Cool Weather

Refreshing white wines match with sunny patios and hot days while bold tannic red wines earn their keep by a fireplace on a winter night Common sense But what about the shoulder season What if yoursquore eating sea bass on a rainy spring day Or sipping wine on a patio during an uncommonly warm April afternoon

Photograph courtesy Tom Firth

36

Wine not only pairs with food but with temperatures and seasons A bright sauvignon blanc can taste flat and acidic on a cold night at no fault of the wine or the drinker Some white wines are other-worldly at the vineyard tasting room in the summer but fall flat when you pull them out for dinner guests in the winter

The change in taste is likely due to a number of factors Anatomically it is your sinus cavities creating the change Higher atmospheric pressures allow your nose to pick out subtle aromas while lower pressures bring out a winersquos acidity and harsh tannins CO2 degasses from liquid at low pressure leaving wines dull and flat too

Serving temperature can greatly affect a winersquos aromatics white wines chilled to near-freezing have dull aromas (Tip allow the bottle a half hour on the counter before popping the cork This will allow the aromatics to warm up enhancing the flavour)

Lastly your own palate will be partial to different flavours depending on sun snow wind and sleet but as a rule of thumb higher alcohol white wines (approximately 13 percent or more) will warm the soul and pair best with cooler weather

Here are some wine selections to go for when it is not too hot and not too cold so you can choose a pairing thatrsquos just right

Fiano

Yoursquoll notice that many of the best white wines for cold weather are grown in hot places Hot climates mean a longer growing season more sugar which leads to higher alcohol and often more robust and tropical flavours All of this is true for fiano - seldom grown outside of Campania in southern Italy Fiano produces age-worthy wines which are rich nutty and delicious

Feudi Di San Gregorio 2014 Campania Fiano di Avellino Italy A beautiful floral bouquet with candied lemon followed by honey-coated hazelnuts on the palate Worth cellaring for a few seasons The perfect dance partner for poultry CSPC +708589 $33

Viognier

Viognier is a white varietal that is best consumed at slightly higher temperatures A chilly glass of viognier will leave you with acid maybe oak and not much else Allow it to warm and you may experience peach pear and toasted almond

Traditionally grown in the warm south of France viognier is often a higher alcohol white wine with rich tropical flavours The heat of the alcohol with tropical flavours and lower acid makes viognier the perfect wine to sip while watching a late spring snowfall

Paul Mas 2014 Languedoc-Roussillon Viognier France Brimming with apricot almond lemon and ripe peach Contains hints of warming oak Pair with something savoury baked brie or spinach-filled puff pastry CSPC + 740978 $17

Dry Roseacute

There is so much more to be had from roseacute than white zinfandel And no itrsquos not just a mix of red and white wine The best roseacute is made from red skinned grapes that only sit on their skins for up to a day and a half to borrow colour and flavour then are fermented and processed

Refined examples of roseacute wines are often dry and have deep aromas of red fruits mild tannins and are savoury instead of sweet The French and Spanish craft great examples of dry roseacutes that are either a single varietal or a blend of grapes such as mourvegravedre grenache syrah or tempranillo

Muga Roseacute 2014 Rioja Grenache Viura and Tempranillo Spain A tamed Rioja Orange blossom woven together with strawberry and a palate of cherry and savoury soft cheese Ideal for charcuterie CSPC + 710261 $16

Orange Wine

Never heard of orange wine A commercial demand for natural wines has fostered a resurgence in ancient wine making practices While roseacute wines are reds that have been produced using white wine making practices orange wines are created from white grapes submitted to maceration and allowed to sit on the skins before fermentation the same practice employed in red winemaking

Unlike any white you have tasted orange wines are full-bodied have mild tannins and deep flavours - the characteristics that allow red wines to bring warmth to cool nights A must try for any wine buff

Allow the bottle a half hour on the counter

before popping the cork

The Bicicleta wines are characterized by their fruity expression and for offering more than

the traditional strains a clear example of this range`s innovation style and creativity

Cono Sur Vineyards amp Winery ConoSurVineyards ConoSurWinesconosurcom

The brewhouse at Wild Rose

Jaclynrsquos first passion was winemaking Shersquos worked in vineyards cellars and restaurants Currently she is a writer who daylights as an environmental engineer She believes that a good life like a good wine is not complete without balance

Nichol 2013 Naramata Pinot Gris Canada A Canadian example of orange wine with backbone Flavours of caramel apple roast nuts orange rind and peach CSPC +504159 $31

Oaked chardonnay

In and out with popular palates oak and chardonnay have been partners for a long time Oak paired with chardonnay can bring out butter richness toasted vanilla tree fruit and in the best examples shimmering minerality That is because oak aging is often accompanied by a malolactic fermentation process that smooths out rigid acids into lactic acid - the acid found in milk

Chardonnay is a grape of many talents and encounters a great diversity of production styles It is oaked examples that pair best with pensive rainy days They are full-bodied warming and complex

Wente Morning Fog 2014 Livermore Valley (California) Chardonnay USA Half oak-aged and malolactic-fermented half crisp and fresh this chardonnay brings together green apple vanilla and toasted oak A friend to cream sauce and roast chicken CSPC +175430 $18

In a province of mutable weather let your wine choices be as varied as the ever changing winds Cheers and herersquos to refined full-bodied cool-weather wines

38

Once yoursquore done with your magazine cover shoot like we did this month or prepping for dinner and have all of those odds and ends just sitting on the cutting board - you know carrot ends onion skins tips of celery stalks you get the point - donrsquot toss lsquoem

Instead place them into a large ziploc bag and straight into the freezer After a couple of weeks yoursquoll likely have four full freezer bags of vegetable bits ready to be turned into broth and herersquos how you do it

Making a big batch of vegetable broth doesnrsquot always mean a trip to the grocery store All you need to do is save those scraps This is a handy trick I learned years ago courtesy of Bon Appetit

No-Waste Vegetable Broth

by DAN CLAPSON

Odds And Ends BrothYields 8 cups (2 L)

12 cups (3 L) water4 full ziploc bags of vegetable trimmings1 yellow onion quartered4 cloves garlicAromatics of choice (I usually toss a couple of rosemary and thyme sprigs in there)To taste Salt and pepper

1 Place all ingredients in a large pot and bring to a boil on medium-high heat

2 Reduce to medium heat and let simmer uncovered for 1frac12 hours

3 Strain season to taste with salt and pepper and use as desired

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buck-a-shuck oysters

$1 oysters every night

9 pm - close Sunday-thursday 11 pm - close friday amp saturday

40

Salentein 2012 Reserve Chardonnay Uco Valley Argentina

Very very enjoyable chardonnay blowing me away with complexity varietal character and fine balance between oak lees and fruit Toffee baked apple tangerine and a little almond on the nose lead into silkily textured wine in the mouth Top shelf chardonnay that might be great with lobster tails mussels or poultry Around $20 CSPC +779479

Rutini 2013 Cabernet Malbec Mendoza Argentina

An exceptionally well put together blend - if you want rich berry fruits lots of body but maybe not tons of varietal characters from the individual components Lifted and bright fruits make for a very enjoyable glass Simply perfect for your next barbecue a roast or just chilling out with friends and family $26-30 CSPC +776822

Vinecol 2014 Organic Malbec Mendoza Argentina Fair Trade organic and vegan along with a good price is it still good Piles of fresh fruits (think smashed raspberries) with plenty of spice and soft herb-leaf aromas There are plenty of malbec flavours on the palate too Good for any day of the week with just a little tension between fruit tannin and acid it might be best with pub style burgers pulled pork or sausages About $16 CSPC +755296

Argentina is so much more than malbec While such a noble grape has found its best home in the high altitude vineyards of Argentina there is a lot going on with other grapes as well

Making The Case For Argentina

by TOM FIRTH

This massive country nestled up against the Andes mountains has a range of growing conditions suited to a number of grapes From Salta in the north to Patagonia in the south plenty of interesting wines are available here - many reasonably priced and of excellent quality So yes there are some

malbecs on these pages but please do try some of the other grapes and blends coming from Argentina too

Be sure to crack open a bottle of malbec on ldquoWorld Malbec Dayrdquo April 17 - who knows it might be nice enough to barbecue too

Photograph courtesy Tom Firth

41

Manos Negras 2011 Stone Soil Select Mendoza Argentina Quite new to the market this is a pretty enjoyable version of Argentinarsquos flagship grape Loads of blue fruit and raspberries with spices galore and a little compost Rich flavours lead to a lengthy spicy finish Yes please Bring to a barbecue if you can $21 CSPC +630541

Zuccardi 2012 Zeta Mendoza Argentina

A malbec-cabernet sauvignon blend that is also a blend of two different Mendoza appellations La Consulta and Gualtallary Deep and abundant fruit aromas with liquorice root and a touch of blueberry preserves Excellent balance of flavours on the palate too with the right structure and tannin for aging if desired Enjoy with a prime rib or even meaty pasta dishes or game $50-52 CSPC +740270

Zuccardi 2012 ldquoEmmardquo Bonarda Mendoza Argentina

In my humble opinion one of the finest bonardas coming out of Argentina Notes of coffee bean and espresso complement cherry and blackberry fruits with healthy balanced tannins to stand up to the tart fruits Delicious for sure enjoy at your next barbecue $40 CSPC +758407

Luigi Bosca 2011 Cabernet-Malbec Mendoza Argentina

A wonderfully earthy and savoury blend with plenty of tobacco spice leather and yes lots of fruit too The earthy flavours work well with the big dark chocolate flavours and weighty tannins Drink now or through 2020 or so - with a steak naturally $22-24 CSPC +766010

Trivento 2013 Golden Reserve Malbec Lujan de Cuyo Argentina While there is a trend to see a lot of premium malbecs move away from oak presence this one is a bold smooth and delicious example that is seeing about a year of oak All those berry fruits plums and herb notes malbec is known for along with the smoothness that only oak brings Kick back relax maybe cook up some steaks - enjoy About $24 CSPC +711402

Trivento 2014 Malbec Reserve Mendoza Argentina Nearly unbeatable for good malbec at a great price itrsquos rich and chocolatey on the nose with big fruits and oak tones too Mild garrigue notes or dried herb flavours with plenty of fruit and tannins - still showing a fine sense of balance Enjoy with beef $14 CSPC +730714

Luigi Bosca 2011 De Sangre Mendoza Argentina A blend of cabernet sauvignon merlot and syrah that manages to pull out the best of each varietal Earthy and slightly smoky with good fruits and plenty of versatility Tannins are well-placed against the fruits with a long smooth finish Irsquove been a fan of this wine year after year Good to keep a couple on hand in the cellar About $29 CSPC +745106

Salentein 2012 Numina Gran Corte Uco Valley Argentina A malbec-dominated Bordeaux blend this stunner is all about ripe fruits cedar pepper cherries and plum with a little tealeaf and the right amount of tannins Very very well balanced and like any great wine think about some food to go with it Beef tenderloin slow cooked meats or maybe at your next asadohellip About $40 CSPC +764706

Colonia Las Liebres 2013 Bonarda Mendoza Argentina Bear with me here - a fine bonarda with plenty of earthy smoky aromas leading to rubber charred cherries and cocoa Some pretty prominent tannins to be found as well but wow does it all come together A wine that just begs for duck with cranberries or maybe some kebabshellip$20 CSPC +773381

42

Open That Bottleby LINDA GARSON photography by INGRID KUENZEL

ldquoIf you work in a place and yoursquore miserable I donrsquot know if there is a dollar amount that can be attached to that The work that yoursquore doing has to be rewarding and challengingrdquo says Karen KhoGrowing up in Niagara Falls in a Philippino SpanishChinese family Kho was surrounded by food and drinks with an open door policy that has had a huge influence on the person she is today - an

entertainer who likes to make people feel welcome ldquoMy parents wanted me to be a lawyer there was definitely an encouragement to use my voice for goodrdquo she explains ldquoAnd I still think I help people but in a different way a very social wayrdquo

Graduating Western University with a political science degree in 2000 Kho spent a year travelling and living in Australia before taking a leap of faith and moving to Calgary Here she studied wine with the International Sommeliers Guild and WSET but says her real education was a job she adored working in the wine trade at BIN 905 in tandem with running wine programs for CRMR restaurants It was only when the opportunity came to create the wine program at Vin Room six years later that Kho leapt at the challenge of a new idea for the city and spent four happy years there

Eventually she and her partner decided to stretch their wings and went to Vancouver where Kho embarked on a six-month culinary course at the Pacific Institute of Culinary Arts ticking off another box on her bucket list ldquoI wanted a greater understanding of technique in the kitchen and I wanted an understanding of what service on a very basic level would look like if I ever owned my own place and ever had to be the person who filled inrdquo she says ldquoI feel if I was ever in a place that needed someone to chop onions Irsquom your womanrdquo she laughs

A year later the pair came back with the idea of eventually opening their own business in Calgary ldquoThe support we get from this community is heartfelt and this is a city of opportunity People with the right concept are seeing a lot of great success itrsquos still our game planrdquo she says Meanwhile Kho applied only to Teatro where she is now Group Service Director

ldquoI wanted to work at a place that had a challenging wine program and had a level of service with high expectations and where professional service teams

applyrdquo she says ldquoItrsquos pretty romantic to work for a company that has been built on a foundation of service Successful businesses in the restaurant industry get the grand picture which is the moments that yoursquore creating for people and I like to be a part of thatrdquo she adds

So what bottle is Kho saving for a special occasion

Paying homage to her time at BIN 905 Kho explains ldquoI have a bottle of 1996 Chateau Mouton Rothschild which was given to me with some very kind words on my last day at BIN Irsquove always just appreciated my time there it was where I learned the vernacular of wine and itrsquos my first job where I really saw the benefits of serving people with intentionrdquo She continues ldquoI always see it thankfully as the stepping-stone to a broader wine profession and eventually to the position that I have now It was given to me by very close friends that Irsquom still friends with to this dayrdquo

And when is she planning to open the wine

ldquoWhen (partner) Dave and I open our own restaurantrdquo Kho says This isnrsquot something that something that will happen tomorrow but fortunately the wine will last until theyrsquore ready

Charcoal-grilled prime cutsHand-muddled caipirinhas50+ salad bar optionsThree distinct private rooms

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30

Citrus Beer Friendsby DAVID NUTTALL

This is when the taste andor aroma of a beer can remind the drinker of anything from an orange drink or lemonade to grapefruit soda There are several ways to achieve this character and these beers are becoming more and more popular every day

Hops provide the bitterness in beer and out of the literally hundreds of varieties a few impart citrus notes into the aroma and flavour Cascade and Citra are examples of two of the most popular hops used in several styles of beer most notably the American IPA or India Pale Ale Cascade hops have been around for over 40 years and it is the single most popular hop used by the American craft brewing industry It provides a floralspicy character often reminiscent of grapefruit

Citrarsquos name leaves no guessing as to its attributes A relative newcomer this cross breed of UK German and US hop varieties has been around for less than a decade but it is already an extremely popular hop for imparting

One of the great things about beer is its diversity It can come in a myriad of colours and also a wide variety of flavours citrus being one of the most distinct

Dave Nuttall has been in the liquor and event business forever He is a qualified beer judge and ownerpresident of Epicurean Calgary at epicureancalgarycom for ten years

citrus and tropical fruit characteristics to a beer

It has proven very versatile and appears in several beer styles from session ales to IPAs It has also become a favourite hop to use for dry-hopping (adding hops late into the boil) due to the exceptional aromas it produces For even more flavour and aroma craft brewers now commonly enhance these already citrusy IPAs with actual zest peel or juice from citrus fruits to create an IPAFruit Beer hybrid which sells especially well in summer months

Then there is the yeast and many varieties of yeast can produce citrusy esters The unfiltered hefeweizens brewed on both sides of the Atlantic quite often have a lemony flavour Sour beers also showcase the yeast often cultured from Belgian strains

These beers are tart and produce a gamut of flavours many with citrus qualities and some have added fruit - the easiest and most obvious way to create a citrusy beer The Belgians also add different kinds of oranges with spice additions to their wheat ales to create wit beers now emulated all over the world with different citrus (and other) fruits involved in the recipe We also canrsquot forget the radlers which are simply a lager beer mixed with 40-60 fruit juice - often grapefruit or lemonade

Whether itrsquos added fruit the yeast the hops or a combination of all of them citrusy beers are commonplace now Thanks to new hops like Citra and the increasing popularity of wits and sours we can expect this trend to continue

Here are a few local beers with hints of citrus All are also available on tap

Beer comes in a myriad of colours and flavours citrus being one of the

most distinct

Ribstone Creek Great White CombineThis tiny Edgerton Alberta brewery has been knocking it out of the park lately Named after the ubiquitous Alberta summer hailstorm the use of Belgian yeast sweet orange peel and coriander give this beer an orange flavour in the beginning When the four different hop additions kick in it changes more to a sweet lemony flavour This White IPA has a very tropical feel that makes you forget it was made in northern Alberta CSPC +774162 $16 6-pack cans

Wild Rose Cowbell Sour ales are the new Belle of the Ball at craft breweries Often using imported Belgian yeast strains they are tart tangy and wellhellip sour Calgaryrsquos Wild Rose has taken this flavour profile and added kaffir lime leaves This makes the beer more like a refreshing limeade and is less bitter than many of its other sour counterparts CSPC +778093 $17 6-pack bottles

calgary internationalbeerfest

beerfestival

western

canadaslargest

VENUEBMO CENTRE STAMPEDE PARK

TICKETS AVAILABLE AT ALBERTABEERFESTIVALSCOM

MAY 6-7 2016FRIDAY3-10 PM BEER GEEK VIP4-10 PM GENERAL ADMISSION

SATURDAY1-9 PM BEER GEEK VIP 2-9 PM GENERAL ADMISSION

PROUDLYPRESENTED BY

ABBEERFESTIVALS

save 15USE PROMO CODE

CUL15

Citradelic Single Hop IPA Big Rock BreweryWith breweries in two (soon to be three) provinces Big Rock now has multiple locations to develop new beers This is the first one from their Vancouver brewery and is full of lemongrapefruit flavours and tropical aromas This beer showcases the Citra hop fooling one to think that citrus has been added when itrsquos all thanks to the hop CSPC +778593 $15 6-pack bottles

Alley Kat Main SqueezeWhat started out as a summer seasonal has now become a mainstay of this Edmonton brewery A North American style wheat ale with a 50 wheat and 50 barley mix it has added grapefruit juice but tastes more along the lines of pink grapefruit rather than its more bitter cousin CSPC +733630 $17 6-pack bottles

32

story by RENEE KOHLMAN

Cheesecake is one of those classic desserts that almost everyone loves unless of course you have a dairy allergy then yoursquoll stay far far away from it While it may seem too complicated to make at home I assure you that itrsquos not

Spice it up cheesecake

Sure there are a few steps involved but the key thing to remember is to have your eggs and cream cheese at room temperature For the best crack-free cheesecake itrsquos best to bake it in a water bath It yields a light creamy texture and is well worth the effort Cheesecake always tastes better the next day so bake it the day before you want to serve it Now that wersquove got the basics down itrsquos time to have a little fun with the crust filling and toppings

The Base

The classic graham cracker crust is fine but every now and again itrsquos great to switch things up Try

ndash Grinding up ginger cookies They work especially well for a pumpkin cheesecake

ndash Chocolate cookie crumbs are fantastic for caramel peanut butter and raspberry cheesecakes

ndash Add finely chopped nuts oats or seeds to the cookie crumbs for added texture and taste

The Middle

Therersquos something to be said for a straight up vanilla or chocolate cheesecake but with some fun add-ins they could take your cheesecake to the next level of deliciousness Try

ndash Swirling tahini dulce de leche salted caramel or chocolate fudge sauce into a creamy vanilla filling

ndash Mix in chopped chocolate peanut butter cups to a chocolate filling

ndash Drop fresh berries (raspberries blueberries blackberries) on top of a vanilla filling

ndash Stir in chopped candied ginger dried cherries or cranberries chopped toasted nuts to the filling

ndash Swap some of the cream cheese with ricotta mascarpone cheese or even strained cottage cheese

ndash You can never go wrong with lemon zest in a vanilla cheesecake

Have a little fun with the crust filling

and toppings

33

Apple Crumble CheesecakeMakes about 12-14 servings Total cook and prep time 3 hours (plus overnight chilling)

I love apple crisp and I love cheesecake This recipe is a fine marriage of both and makes a more than acceptable breakfast The base is a crumble of oats and flour the middle is classic cheesecake and itrsquos topped with cinnamon apples and a buttery oat streusel

Crust 2 cups large flake oats1 cup all purpose flour cup packed brown sugarfrac34 cup butter meltedfrac12 tsp salt

Cheesecake Layer3 - 225 g packages cream cheese at room temperature cup granulated sugar1 tsp (5 mL) vanilla3 large eggs at room temperature cup (80 mL) whipping cream

Apple Layer2 apples peeled cored and sliced about 3-4 mm thick1 tsp ground cinnamonfrac12 tsp salt

Streusel Layer1 cup large flake oatsfrac12 cup all-purpose flourfrac12 cup brown sugarfrac12 cup butter softened1 tsp ground cinnamon

Preheat the oven to 375ordm F

1 Butter the bottom and sides of a 9-inch springform pan with sides that are at least 7 cm high Wrap the bottom of the pan in aluminum foil so it comes at least halfway up the sides

2 Combine the crust ingredients in a large bowl Press the crust evenly into the pan and place on a baking sheet Bake for 10 minutes Remove from oven and let it cool on a wire rack

3 Reduce heat to 325ordm F Put a kettle of water on to boil Have a large roasting pan close by

4 Using a stand mixer with a paddle attachment beat the cream cheese at medium speed for 4 minutes scraping down the sides once or twice until it is soft and creamy With the mixer still running add the sugar and beat for another 4 minutes scraping down the sides of the bowl at least twice Beat in the vanilla Add the eggs one at a time beating for 1 minute after each addition and scraping the bowl Reduce speed to low and add the whipping cream

5 Toss the sliced apples with the cinnamon and salt in a small bowl Combine all of the streusel ingredients in a medium bowl and mix well

6 Place the springform pan in the roasting pan Give the cheesecake batter a good stir and pour it on top of the crust Arrange the apples on top and sprinkle the streusel on top of the apples

7 Place in the oven on the middle rack and pour the hot water into the roasting pan so it comes halfway up the sides of the springform pan

8 Bake the cheesecake for 1frac12 hours Turn off the heat prop open the oven door and let the cheesecake hang inside for another hour

9 Carefully remove from the oven and take out the cheesecake from the hot water bath Remove the foil and let the cheesecake come to room temperature on a wire rack Cover the top lightly and refrigerate for at least 4 hours but overnight is best The next day remove the sides of the pan and serve the cake

Renee is a food writer and pastry chef living in beautiful Saskatoon Saskatchewan Her columns appear in The Saskatoon StarPhoenix and her desserts can be enjoyed at Riverside Country Club Also check out her blog wwwsweetsugarbeancom

The Toppings

Cheesecake with no fun toppings is like a salad with no dressing it just doesnrsquot reach its full flavour potential Try

ndash Salted caramel roasted strawberry sauce or warm chocolate sauce

ndash A rhubarbcardamom compote is divine on top of vanilla cheesecake kissed with a bit of lemon zest Cherry compote is divine with chocolate cheesecake

ndash Have a favourite jam Melt it down with a tiny bit of water and drizzle it on top of your favourite cheesecake

ndash Candied nuts and citrus rind chocolate shavings even crumbled cookies are a fun way to add texture to the cheesecake

ndash Never underestimate the power of fresh seasonal berries and a well-made cheesecakeMacerate them in a little sugar and minced mint or basil and they make a lovely topping Donrsquot forget the whipped cream

34

Think about that for a moment and let that sink in like a cherry in your drink

So how old is ice in bars Well thatrsquos a whole story on its own however the Old Fashioned has been talked about in one form or another since the beginning of the 19th Century The first appearance of this classic cocktail was in the Balance and Columbian Repository newspaper in 1806 as such ldquoA stimulating liquor composed of spirits of any kind sugar water and bittersrdquo

The Old FashionedAn Iconic Drink That Has Stood The Test Of Time

by BRICE PERESSINI

Sohelliphow old is the Old Fashioned The Old Fashioned is as old as ice in bars

When you follow these instructions and put this finely-crafted cocktail into your hand swirl around the ice gaze through the caramel-coloured liquid in the glass and contemplate all that has gone into it you can rest assured you are holding a drink that has delighted taste buds for generations The Old Fashioned however has not always been held in high regard There was a time not too long ago where this fine concoction was an unbalanced fruity watered-down pale imitation of itself More recently

there has been a renaissance involved with this invigorating intoxicant and you can and should expect a proper cocktail when it is ordered at a fine establishment

When this drink is properly prepared it should be in perfect balance (as any proper drink should be) The sweetness of the sugar should not cover the flavour of the bourbon and the bitters should add to not overpower the flavour of the whiskey When the Old Fashioned is well made it is as close to cocktail perfection as a sophisticated patron could expect

Befriend a bespoke barkeep at an upstanding establishment and you will be in trusted hands If you find yourself at home and wanting for a nightcap look no further than the Old Fashioned

Enjoy friends

Old Fashioned Recipe

2 oz Buffalo Trace Bourbon (or your personal favourite)4 dashes Angostura Aromatic Bitters1 raw sugar cube

Muddle the sugar and bitters together with a touch of warm water in a rocks glass Add the bourbon then add ice Stir and garnish with an orange peel and cherry (optional)

Brice is a competition cocktail bartender who plies his trade behind the wood at Chefbar Whisk(e)y is his poison Neat

35

Shoulder Season Wines

by JACLYN ADOMEIT

Wines For Cool Weather

Refreshing white wines match with sunny patios and hot days while bold tannic red wines earn their keep by a fireplace on a winter night Common sense But what about the shoulder season What if yoursquore eating sea bass on a rainy spring day Or sipping wine on a patio during an uncommonly warm April afternoon

Photograph courtesy Tom Firth

36

Wine not only pairs with food but with temperatures and seasons A bright sauvignon blanc can taste flat and acidic on a cold night at no fault of the wine or the drinker Some white wines are other-worldly at the vineyard tasting room in the summer but fall flat when you pull them out for dinner guests in the winter

The change in taste is likely due to a number of factors Anatomically it is your sinus cavities creating the change Higher atmospheric pressures allow your nose to pick out subtle aromas while lower pressures bring out a winersquos acidity and harsh tannins CO2 degasses from liquid at low pressure leaving wines dull and flat too

Serving temperature can greatly affect a winersquos aromatics white wines chilled to near-freezing have dull aromas (Tip allow the bottle a half hour on the counter before popping the cork This will allow the aromatics to warm up enhancing the flavour)

Lastly your own palate will be partial to different flavours depending on sun snow wind and sleet but as a rule of thumb higher alcohol white wines (approximately 13 percent or more) will warm the soul and pair best with cooler weather

Here are some wine selections to go for when it is not too hot and not too cold so you can choose a pairing thatrsquos just right

Fiano

Yoursquoll notice that many of the best white wines for cold weather are grown in hot places Hot climates mean a longer growing season more sugar which leads to higher alcohol and often more robust and tropical flavours All of this is true for fiano - seldom grown outside of Campania in southern Italy Fiano produces age-worthy wines which are rich nutty and delicious

Feudi Di San Gregorio 2014 Campania Fiano di Avellino Italy A beautiful floral bouquet with candied lemon followed by honey-coated hazelnuts on the palate Worth cellaring for a few seasons The perfect dance partner for poultry CSPC +708589 $33

Viognier

Viognier is a white varietal that is best consumed at slightly higher temperatures A chilly glass of viognier will leave you with acid maybe oak and not much else Allow it to warm and you may experience peach pear and toasted almond

Traditionally grown in the warm south of France viognier is often a higher alcohol white wine with rich tropical flavours The heat of the alcohol with tropical flavours and lower acid makes viognier the perfect wine to sip while watching a late spring snowfall

Paul Mas 2014 Languedoc-Roussillon Viognier France Brimming with apricot almond lemon and ripe peach Contains hints of warming oak Pair with something savoury baked brie or spinach-filled puff pastry CSPC + 740978 $17

Dry Roseacute

There is so much more to be had from roseacute than white zinfandel And no itrsquos not just a mix of red and white wine The best roseacute is made from red skinned grapes that only sit on their skins for up to a day and a half to borrow colour and flavour then are fermented and processed

Refined examples of roseacute wines are often dry and have deep aromas of red fruits mild tannins and are savoury instead of sweet The French and Spanish craft great examples of dry roseacutes that are either a single varietal or a blend of grapes such as mourvegravedre grenache syrah or tempranillo

Muga Roseacute 2014 Rioja Grenache Viura and Tempranillo Spain A tamed Rioja Orange blossom woven together with strawberry and a palate of cherry and savoury soft cheese Ideal for charcuterie CSPC + 710261 $16

Orange Wine

Never heard of orange wine A commercial demand for natural wines has fostered a resurgence in ancient wine making practices While roseacute wines are reds that have been produced using white wine making practices orange wines are created from white grapes submitted to maceration and allowed to sit on the skins before fermentation the same practice employed in red winemaking

Unlike any white you have tasted orange wines are full-bodied have mild tannins and deep flavours - the characteristics that allow red wines to bring warmth to cool nights A must try for any wine buff

Allow the bottle a half hour on the counter

before popping the cork

The Bicicleta wines are characterized by their fruity expression and for offering more than

the traditional strains a clear example of this range`s innovation style and creativity

Cono Sur Vineyards amp Winery ConoSurVineyards ConoSurWinesconosurcom

The brewhouse at Wild Rose

Jaclynrsquos first passion was winemaking Shersquos worked in vineyards cellars and restaurants Currently she is a writer who daylights as an environmental engineer She believes that a good life like a good wine is not complete without balance

Nichol 2013 Naramata Pinot Gris Canada A Canadian example of orange wine with backbone Flavours of caramel apple roast nuts orange rind and peach CSPC +504159 $31

Oaked chardonnay

In and out with popular palates oak and chardonnay have been partners for a long time Oak paired with chardonnay can bring out butter richness toasted vanilla tree fruit and in the best examples shimmering minerality That is because oak aging is often accompanied by a malolactic fermentation process that smooths out rigid acids into lactic acid - the acid found in milk

Chardonnay is a grape of many talents and encounters a great diversity of production styles It is oaked examples that pair best with pensive rainy days They are full-bodied warming and complex

Wente Morning Fog 2014 Livermore Valley (California) Chardonnay USA Half oak-aged and malolactic-fermented half crisp and fresh this chardonnay brings together green apple vanilla and toasted oak A friend to cream sauce and roast chicken CSPC +175430 $18

In a province of mutable weather let your wine choices be as varied as the ever changing winds Cheers and herersquos to refined full-bodied cool-weather wines

38

Once yoursquore done with your magazine cover shoot like we did this month or prepping for dinner and have all of those odds and ends just sitting on the cutting board - you know carrot ends onion skins tips of celery stalks you get the point - donrsquot toss lsquoem

Instead place them into a large ziploc bag and straight into the freezer After a couple of weeks yoursquoll likely have four full freezer bags of vegetable bits ready to be turned into broth and herersquos how you do it

Making a big batch of vegetable broth doesnrsquot always mean a trip to the grocery store All you need to do is save those scraps This is a handy trick I learned years ago courtesy of Bon Appetit

No-Waste Vegetable Broth

by DAN CLAPSON

Odds And Ends BrothYields 8 cups (2 L)

12 cups (3 L) water4 full ziploc bags of vegetable trimmings1 yellow onion quartered4 cloves garlicAromatics of choice (I usually toss a couple of rosemary and thyme sprigs in there)To taste Salt and pepper

1 Place all ingredients in a large pot and bring to a boil on medium-high heat

2 Reduce to medium heat and let simmer uncovered for 1frac12 hours

3 Strain season to taste with salt and pepper and use as desired

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$1 oysters every night

9 pm - close Sunday-thursday 11 pm - close friday amp saturday

40

Salentein 2012 Reserve Chardonnay Uco Valley Argentina

Very very enjoyable chardonnay blowing me away with complexity varietal character and fine balance between oak lees and fruit Toffee baked apple tangerine and a little almond on the nose lead into silkily textured wine in the mouth Top shelf chardonnay that might be great with lobster tails mussels or poultry Around $20 CSPC +779479

Rutini 2013 Cabernet Malbec Mendoza Argentina

An exceptionally well put together blend - if you want rich berry fruits lots of body but maybe not tons of varietal characters from the individual components Lifted and bright fruits make for a very enjoyable glass Simply perfect for your next barbecue a roast or just chilling out with friends and family $26-30 CSPC +776822

Vinecol 2014 Organic Malbec Mendoza Argentina Fair Trade organic and vegan along with a good price is it still good Piles of fresh fruits (think smashed raspberries) with plenty of spice and soft herb-leaf aromas There are plenty of malbec flavours on the palate too Good for any day of the week with just a little tension between fruit tannin and acid it might be best with pub style burgers pulled pork or sausages About $16 CSPC +755296

Argentina is so much more than malbec While such a noble grape has found its best home in the high altitude vineyards of Argentina there is a lot going on with other grapes as well

Making The Case For Argentina

by TOM FIRTH

This massive country nestled up against the Andes mountains has a range of growing conditions suited to a number of grapes From Salta in the north to Patagonia in the south plenty of interesting wines are available here - many reasonably priced and of excellent quality So yes there are some

malbecs on these pages but please do try some of the other grapes and blends coming from Argentina too

Be sure to crack open a bottle of malbec on ldquoWorld Malbec Dayrdquo April 17 - who knows it might be nice enough to barbecue too

Photograph courtesy Tom Firth

41

Manos Negras 2011 Stone Soil Select Mendoza Argentina Quite new to the market this is a pretty enjoyable version of Argentinarsquos flagship grape Loads of blue fruit and raspberries with spices galore and a little compost Rich flavours lead to a lengthy spicy finish Yes please Bring to a barbecue if you can $21 CSPC +630541

Zuccardi 2012 Zeta Mendoza Argentina

A malbec-cabernet sauvignon blend that is also a blend of two different Mendoza appellations La Consulta and Gualtallary Deep and abundant fruit aromas with liquorice root and a touch of blueberry preserves Excellent balance of flavours on the palate too with the right structure and tannin for aging if desired Enjoy with a prime rib or even meaty pasta dishes or game $50-52 CSPC +740270

Zuccardi 2012 ldquoEmmardquo Bonarda Mendoza Argentina

In my humble opinion one of the finest bonardas coming out of Argentina Notes of coffee bean and espresso complement cherry and blackberry fruits with healthy balanced tannins to stand up to the tart fruits Delicious for sure enjoy at your next barbecue $40 CSPC +758407

Luigi Bosca 2011 Cabernet-Malbec Mendoza Argentina

A wonderfully earthy and savoury blend with plenty of tobacco spice leather and yes lots of fruit too The earthy flavours work well with the big dark chocolate flavours and weighty tannins Drink now or through 2020 or so - with a steak naturally $22-24 CSPC +766010

Trivento 2013 Golden Reserve Malbec Lujan de Cuyo Argentina While there is a trend to see a lot of premium malbecs move away from oak presence this one is a bold smooth and delicious example that is seeing about a year of oak All those berry fruits plums and herb notes malbec is known for along with the smoothness that only oak brings Kick back relax maybe cook up some steaks - enjoy About $24 CSPC +711402

Trivento 2014 Malbec Reserve Mendoza Argentina Nearly unbeatable for good malbec at a great price itrsquos rich and chocolatey on the nose with big fruits and oak tones too Mild garrigue notes or dried herb flavours with plenty of fruit and tannins - still showing a fine sense of balance Enjoy with beef $14 CSPC +730714

Luigi Bosca 2011 De Sangre Mendoza Argentina A blend of cabernet sauvignon merlot and syrah that manages to pull out the best of each varietal Earthy and slightly smoky with good fruits and plenty of versatility Tannins are well-placed against the fruits with a long smooth finish Irsquove been a fan of this wine year after year Good to keep a couple on hand in the cellar About $29 CSPC +745106

Salentein 2012 Numina Gran Corte Uco Valley Argentina A malbec-dominated Bordeaux blend this stunner is all about ripe fruits cedar pepper cherries and plum with a little tealeaf and the right amount of tannins Very very well balanced and like any great wine think about some food to go with it Beef tenderloin slow cooked meats or maybe at your next asadohellip About $40 CSPC +764706

Colonia Las Liebres 2013 Bonarda Mendoza Argentina Bear with me here - a fine bonarda with plenty of earthy smoky aromas leading to rubber charred cherries and cocoa Some pretty prominent tannins to be found as well but wow does it all come together A wine that just begs for duck with cranberries or maybe some kebabshellip$20 CSPC +773381

42

Open That Bottleby LINDA GARSON photography by INGRID KUENZEL

ldquoIf you work in a place and yoursquore miserable I donrsquot know if there is a dollar amount that can be attached to that The work that yoursquore doing has to be rewarding and challengingrdquo says Karen KhoGrowing up in Niagara Falls in a Philippino SpanishChinese family Kho was surrounded by food and drinks with an open door policy that has had a huge influence on the person she is today - an

entertainer who likes to make people feel welcome ldquoMy parents wanted me to be a lawyer there was definitely an encouragement to use my voice for goodrdquo she explains ldquoAnd I still think I help people but in a different way a very social wayrdquo

Graduating Western University with a political science degree in 2000 Kho spent a year travelling and living in Australia before taking a leap of faith and moving to Calgary Here she studied wine with the International Sommeliers Guild and WSET but says her real education was a job she adored working in the wine trade at BIN 905 in tandem with running wine programs for CRMR restaurants It was only when the opportunity came to create the wine program at Vin Room six years later that Kho leapt at the challenge of a new idea for the city and spent four happy years there

Eventually she and her partner decided to stretch their wings and went to Vancouver where Kho embarked on a six-month culinary course at the Pacific Institute of Culinary Arts ticking off another box on her bucket list ldquoI wanted a greater understanding of technique in the kitchen and I wanted an understanding of what service on a very basic level would look like if I ever owned my own place and ever had to be the person who filled inrdquo she says ldquoI feel if I was ever in a place that needed someone to chop onions Irsquom your womanrdquo she laughs

A year later the pair came back with the idea of eventually opening their own business in Calgary ldquoThe support we get from this community is heartfelt and this is a city of opportunity People with the right concept are seeing a lot of great success itrsquos still our game planrdquo she says Meanwhile Kho applied only to Teatro where she is now Group Service Director

ldquoI wanted to work at a place that had a challenging wine program and had a level of service with high expectations and where professional service teams

applyrdquo she says ldquoItrsquos pretty romantic to work for a company that has been built on a foundation of service Successful businesses in the restaurant industry get the grand picture which is the moments that yoursquore creating for people and I like to be a part of thatrdquo she adds

So what bottle is Kho saving for a special occasion

Paying homage to her time at BIN 905 Kho explains ldquoI have a bottle of 1996 Chateau Mouton Rothschild which was given to me with some very kind words on my last day at BIN Irsquove always just appreciated my time there it was where I learned the vernacular of wine and itrsquos my first job where I really saw the benefits of serving people with intentionrdquo She continues ldquoI always see it thankfully as the stepping-stone to a broader wine profession and eventually to the position that I have now It was given to me by very close friends that Irsquom still friends with to this dayrdquo

And when is she planning to open the wine

ldquoWhen (partner) Dave and I open our own restaurantrdquo Kho says This isnrsquot something that something that will happen tomorrow but fortunately the wine will last until theyrsquore ready

Charcoal-grilled prime cutsHand-muddled caipirinhas50+ salad bar optionsThree distinct private rooms

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(587) 354-3441

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Ribstone Creek Great White CombineThis tiny Edgerton Alberta brewery has been knocking it out of the park lately Named after the ubiquitous Alberta summer hailstorm the use of Belgian yeast sweet orange peel and coriander give this beer an orange flavour in the beginning When the four different hop additions kick in it changes more to a sweet lemony flavour This White IPA has a very tropical feel that makes you forget it was made in northern Alberta CSPC +774162 $16 6-pack cans

Wild Rose Cowbell Sour ales are the new Belle of the Ball at craft breweries Often using imported Belgian yeast strains they are tart tangy and wellhellip sour Calgaryrsquos Wild Rose has taken this flavour profile and added kaffir lime leaves This makes the beer more like a refreshing limeade and is less bitter than many of its other sour counterparts CSPC +778093 $17 6-pack bottles

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Citradelic Single Hop IPA Big Rock BreweryWith breweries in two (soon to be three) provinces Big Rock now has multiple locations to develop new beers This is the first one from their Vancouver brewery and is full of lemongrapefruit flavours and tropical aromas This beer showcases the Citra hop fooling one to think that citrus has been added when itrsquos all thanks to the hop CSPC +778593 $15 6-pack bottles

Alley Kat Main SqueezeWhat started out as a summer seasonal has now become a mainstay of this Edmonton brewery A North American style wheat ale with a 50 wheat and 50 barley mix it has added grapefruit juice but tastes more along the lines of pink grapefruit rather than its more bitter cousin CSPC +733630 $17 6-pack bottles

32

story by RENEE KOHLMAN

Cheesecake is one of those classic desserts that almost everyone loves unless of course you have a dairy allergy then yoursquoll stay far far away from it While it may seem too complicated to make at home I assure you that itrsquos not

Spice it up cheesecake

Sure there are a few steps involved but the key thing to remember is to have your eggs and cream cheese at room temperature For the best crack-free cheesecake itrsquos best to bake it in a water bath It yields a light creamy texture and is well worth the effort Cheesecake always tastes better the next day so bake it the day before you want to serve it Now that wersquove got the basics down itrsquos time to have a little fun with the crust filling and toppings

The Base

The classic graham cracker crust is fine but every now and again itrsquos great to switch things up Try

ndash Grinding up ginger cookies They work especially well for a pumpkin cheesecake

ndash Chocolate cookie crumbs are fantastic for caramel peanut butter and raspberry cheesecakes

ndash Add finely chopped nuts oats or seeds to the cookie crumbs for added texture and taste

The Middle

Therersquos something to be said for a straight up vanilla or chocolate cheesecake but with some fun add-ins they could take your cheesecake to the next level of deliciousness Try

ndash Swirling tahini dulce de leche salted caramel or chocolate fudge sauce into a creamy vanilla filling

ndash Mix in chopped chocolate peanut butter cups to a chocolate filling

ndash Drop fresh berries (raspberries blueberries blackberries) on top of a vanilla filling

ndash Stir in chopped candied ginger dried cherries or cranberries chopped toasted nuts to the filling

ndash Swap some of the cream cheese with ricotta mascarpone cheese or even strained cottage cheese

ndash You can never go wrong with lemon zest in a vanilla cheesecake

Have a little fun with the crust filling

and toppings

33

Apple Crumble CheesecakeMakes about 12-14 servings Total cook and prep time 3 hours (plus overnight chilling)

I love apple crisp and I love cheesecake This recipe is a fine marriage of both and makes a more than acceptable breakfast The base is a crumble of oats and flour the middle is classic cheesecake and itrsquos topped with cinnamon apples and a buttery oat streusel

Crust 2 cups large flake oats1 cup all purpose flour cup packed brown sugarfrac34 cup butter meltedfrac12 tsp salt

Cheesecake Layer3 - 225 g packages cream cheese at room temperature cup granulated sugar1 tsp (5 mL) vanilla3 large eggs at room temperature cup (80 mL) whipping cream

Apple Layer2 apples peeled cored and sliced about 3-4 mm thick1 tsp ground cinnamonfrac12 tsp salt

Streusel Layer1 cup large flake oatsfrac12 cup all-purpose flourfrac12 cup brown sugarfrac12 cup butter softened1 tsp ground cinnamon

Preheat the oven to 375ordm F

1 Butter the bottom and sides of a 9-inch springform pan with sides that are at least 7 cm high Wrap the bottom of the pan in aluminum foil so it comes at least halfway up the sides

2 Combine the crust ingredients in a large bowl Press the crust evenly into the pan and place on a baking sheet Bake for 10 minutes Remove from oven and let it cool on a wire rack

3 Reduce heat to 325ordm F Put a kettle of water on to boil Have a large roasting pan close by

4 Using a stand mixer with a paddle attachment beat the cream cheese at medium speed for 4 minutes scraping down the sides once or twice until it is soft and creamy With the mixer still running add the sugar and beat for another 4 minutes scraping down the sides of the bowl at least twice Beat in the vanilla Add the eggs one at a time beating for 1 minute after each addition and scraping the bowl Reduce speed to low and add the whipping cream

5 Toss the sliced apples with the cinnamon and salt in a small bowl Combine all of the streusel ingredients in a medium bowl and mix well

6 Place the springform pan in the roasting pan Give the cheesecake batter a good stir and pour it on top of the crust Arrange the apples on top and sprinkle the streusel on top of the apples

7 Place in the oven on the middle rack and pour the hot water into the roasting pan so it comes halfway up the sides of the springform pan

8 Bake the cheesecake for 1frac12 hours Turn off the heat prop open the oven door and let the cheesecake hang inside for another hour

9 Carefully remove from the oven and take out the cheesecake from the hot water bath Remove the foil and let the cheesecake come to room temperature on a wire rack Cover the top lightly and refrigerate for at least 4 hours but overnight is best The next day remove the sides of the pan and serve the cake

Renee is a food writer and pastry chef living in beautiful Saskatoon Saskatchewan Her columns appear in The Saskatoon StarPhoenix and her desserts can be enjoyed at Riverside Country Club Also check out her blog wwwsweetsugarbeancom

The Toppings

Cheesecake with no fun toppings is like a salad with no dressing it just doesnrsquot reach its full flavour potential Try

ndash Salted caramel roasted strawberry sauce or warm chocolate sauce

ndash A rhubarbcardamom compote is divine on top of vanilla cheesecake kissed with a bit of lemon zest Cherry compote is divine with chocolate cheesecake

ndash Have a favourite jam Melt it down with a tiny bit of water and drizzle it on top of your favourite cheesecake

ndash Candied nuts and citrus rind chocolate shavings even crumbled cookies are a fun way to add texture to the cheesecake

ndash Never underestimate the power of fresh seasonal berries and a well-made cheesecakeMacerate them in a little sugar and minced mint or basil and they make a lovely topping Donrsquot forget the whipped cream

34

Think about that for a moment and let that sink in like a cherry in your drink

So how old is ice in bars Well thatrsquos a whole story on its own however the Old Fashioned has been talked about in one form or another since the beginning of the 19th Century The first appearance of this classic cocktail was in the Balance and Columbian Repository newspaper in 1806 as such ldquoA stimulating liquor composed of spirits of any kind sugar water and bittersrdquo

The Old FashionedAn Iconic Drink That Has Stood The Test Of Time

by BRICE PERESSINI

Sohelliphow old is the Old Fashioned The Old Fashioned is as old as ice in bars

When you follow these instructions and put this finely-crafted cocktail into your hand swirl around the ice gaze through the caramel-coloured liquid in the glass and contemplate all that has gone into it you can rest assured you are holding a drink that has delighted taste buds for generations The Old Fashioned however has not always been held in high regard There was a time not too long ago where this fine concoction was an unbalanced fruity watered-down pale imitation of itself More recently

there has been a renaissance involved with this invigorating intoxicant and you can and should expect a proper cocktail when it is ordered at a fine establishment

When this drink is properly prepared it should be in perfect balance (as any proper drink should be) The sweetness of the sugar should not cover the flavour of the bourbon and the bitters should add to not overpower the flavour of the whiskey When the Old Fashioned is well made it is as close to cocktail perfection as a sophisticated patron could expect

Befriend a bespoke barkeep at an upstanding establishment and you will be in trusted hands If you find yourself at home and wanting for a nightcap look no further than the Old Fashioned

Enjoy friends

Old Fashioned Recipe

2 oz Buffalo Trace Bourbon (or your personal favourite)4 dashes Angostura Aromatic Bitters1 raw sugar cube

Muddle the sugar and bitters together with a touch of warm water in a rocks glass Add the bourbon then add ice Stir and garnish with an orange peel and cherry (optional)

Brice is a competition cocktail bartender who plies his trade behind the wood at Chefbar Whisk(e)y is his poison Neat

35

Shoulder Season Wines

by JACLYN ADOMEIT

Wines For Cool Weather

Refreshing white wines match with sunny patios and hot days while bold tannic red wines earn their keep by a fireplace on a winter night Common sense But what about the shoulder season What if yoursquore eating sea bass on a rainy spring day Or sipping wine on a patio during an uncommonly warm April afternoon

Photograph courtesy Tom Firth

36

Wine not only pairs with food but with temperatures and seasons A bright sauvignon blanc can taste flat and acidic on a cold night at no fault of the wine or the drinker Some white wines are other-worldly at the vineyard tasting room in the summer but fall flat when you pull them out for dinner guests in the winter

The change in taste is likely due to a number of factors Anatomically it is your sinus cavities creating the change Higher atmospheric pressures allow your nose to pick out subtle aromas while lower pressures bring out a winersquos acidity and harsh tannins CO2 degasses from liquid at low pressure leaving wines dull and flat too

Serving temperature can greatly affect a winersquos aromatics white wines chilled to near-freezing have dull aromas (Tip allow the bottle a half hour on the counter before popping the cork This will allow the aromatics to warm up enhancing the flavour)

Lastly your own palate will be partial to different flavours depending on sun snow wind and sleet but as a rule of thumb higher alcohol white wines (approximately 13 percent or more) will warm the soul and pair best with cooler weather

Here are some wine selections to go for when it is not too hot and not too cold so you can choose a pairing thatrsquos just right

Fiano

Yoursquoll notice that many of the best white wines for cold weather are grown in hot places Hot climates mean a longer growing season more sugar which leads to higher alcohol and often more robust and tropical flavours All of this is true for fiano - seldom grown outside of Campania in southern Italy Fiano produces age-worthy wines which are rich nutty and delicious

Feudi Di San Gregorio 2014 Campania Fiano di Avellino Italy A beautiful floral bouquet with candied lemon followed by honey-coated hazelnuts on the palate Worth cellaring for a few seasons The perfect dance partner for poultry CSPC +708589 $33

Viognier

Viognier is a white varietal that is best consumed at slightly higher temperatures A chilly glass of viognier will leave you with acid maybe oak and not much else Allow it to warm and you may experience peach pear and toasted almond

Traditionally grown in the warm south of France viognier is often a higher alcohol white wine with rich tropical flavours The heat of the alcohol with tropical flavours and lower acid makes viognier the perfect wine to sip while watching a late spring snowfall

Paul Mas 2014 Languedoc-Roussillon Viognier France Brimming with apricot almond lemon and ripe peach Contains hints of warming oak Pair with something savoury baked brie or spinach-filled puff pastry CSPC + 740978 $17

Dry Roseacute

There is so much more to be had from roseacute than white zinfandel And no itrsquos not just a mix of red and white wine The best roseacute is made from red skinned grapes that only sit on their skins for up to a day and a half to borrow colour and flavour then are fermented and processed

Refined examples of roseacute wines are often dry and have deep aromas of red fruits mild tannins and are savoury instead of sweet The French and Spanish craft great examples of dry roseacutes that are either a single varietal or a blend of grapes such as mourvegravedre grenache syrah or tempranillo

Muga Roseacute 2014 Rioja Grenache Viura and Tempranillo Spain A tamed Rioja Orange blossom woven together with strawberry and a palate of cherry and savoury soft cheese Ideal for charcuterie CSPC + 710261 $16

Orange Wine

Never heard of orange wine A commercial demand for natural wines has fostered a resurgence in ancient wine making practices While roseacute wines are reds that have been produced using white wine making practices orange wines are created from white grapes submitted to maceration and allowed to sit on the skins before fermentation the same practice employed in red winemaking

Unlike any white you have tasted orange wines are full-bodied have mild tannins and deep flavours - the characteristics that allow red wines to bring warmth to cool nights A must try for any wine buff

Allow the bottle a half hour on the counter

before popping the cork

The Bicicleta wines are characterized by their fruity expression and for offering more than

the traditional strains a clear example of this range`s innovation style and creativity

Cono Sur Vineyards amp Winery ConoSurVineyards ConoSurWinesconosurcom

The brewhouse at Wild Rose

Jaclynrsquos first passion was winemaking Shersquos worked in vineyards cellars and restaurants Currently she is a writer who daylights as an environmental engineer She believes that a good life like a good wine is not complete without balance

Nichol 2013 Naramata Pinot Gris Canada A Canadian example of orange wine with backbone Flavours of caramel apple roast nuts orange rind and peach CSPC +504159 $31

Oaked chardonnay

In and out with popular palates oak and chardonnay have been partners for a long time Oak paired with chardonnay can bring out butter richness toasted vanilla tree fruit and in the best examples shimmering minerality That is because oak aging is often accompanied by a malolactic fermentation process that smooths out rigid acids into lactic acid - the acid found in milk

Chardonnay is a grape of many talents and encounters a great diversity of production styles It is oaked examples that pair best with pensive rainy days They are full-bodied warming and complex

Wente Morning Fog 2014 Livermore Valley (California) Chardonnay USA Half oak-aged and malolactic-fermented half crisp and fresh this chardonnay brings together green apple vanilla and toasted oak A friend to cream sauce and roast chicken CSPC +175430 $18

In a province of mutable weather let your wine choices be as varied as the ever changing winds Cheers and herersquos to refined full-bodied cool-weather wines

38

Once yoursquore done with your magazine cover shoot like we did this month or prepping for dinner and have all of those odds and ends just sitting on the cutting board - you know carrot ends onion skins tips of celery stalks you get the point - donrsquot toss lsquoem

Instead place them into a large ziploc bag and straight into the freezer After a couple of weeks yoursquoll likely have four full freezer bags of vegetable bits ready to be turned into broth and herersquos how you do it

Making a big batch of vegetable broth doesnrsquot always mean a trip to the grocery store All you need to do is save those scraps This is a handy trick I learned years ago courtesy of Bon Appetit

No-Waste Vegetable Broth

by DAN CLAPSON

Odds And Ends BrothYields 8 cups (2 L)

12 cups (3 L) water4 full ziploc bags of vegetable trimmings1 yellow onion quartered4 cloves garlicAromatics of choice (I usually toss a couple of rosemary and thyme sprigs in there)To taste Salt and pepper

1 Place all ingredients in a large pot and bring to a boil on medium-high heat

2 Reduce to medium heat and let simmer uncovered for 1frac12 hours

3 Strain season to taste with salt and pepper and use as desired

Full circlePizza amp Oyster Bar

933 17 Ave SW bull fullcirclepizzaca

buck-a-shuck oysters

$1 oysters every night

9 pm - close Sunday-thursday 11 pm - close friday amp saturday

40

Salentein 2012 Reserve Chardonnay Uco Valley Argentina

Very very enjoyable chardonnay blowing me away with complexity varietal character and fine balance between oak lees and fruit Toffee baked apple tangerine and a little almond on the nose lead into silkily textured wine in the mouth Top shelf chardonnay that might be great with lobster tails mussels or poultry Around $20 CSPC +779479

Rutini 2013 Cabernet Malbec Mendoza Argentina

An exceptionally well put together blend - if you want rich berry fruits lots of body but maybe not tons of varietal characters from the individual components Lifted and bright fruits make for a very enjoyable glass Simply perfect for your next barbecue a roast or just chilling out with friends and family $26-30 CSPC +776822

Vinecol 2014 Organic Malbec Mendoza Argentina Fair Trade organic and vegan along with a good price is it still good Piles of fresh fruits (think smashed raspberries) with plenty of spice and soft herb-leaf aromas There are plenty of malbec flavours on the palate too Good for any day of the week with just a little tension between fruit tannin and acid it might be best with pub style burgers pulled pork or sausages About $16 CSPC +755296

Argentina is so much more than malbec While such a noble grape has found its best home in the high altitude vineyards of Argentina there is a lot going on with other grapes as well

Making The Case For Argentina

by TOM FIRTH

This massive country nestled up against the Andes mountains has a range of growing conditions suited to a number of grapes From Salta in the north to Patagonia in the south plenty of interesting wines are available here - many reasonably priced and of excellent quality So yes there are some

malbecs on these pages but please do try some of the other grapes and blends coming from Argentina too

Be sure to crack open a bottle of malbec on ldquoWorld Malbec Dayrdquo April 17 - who knows it might be nice enough to barbecue too

Photograph courtesy Tom Firth

41

Manos Negras 2011 Stone Soil Select Mendoza Argentina Quite new to the market this is a pretty enjoyable version of Argentinarsquos flagship grape Loads of blue fruit and raspberries with spices galore and a little compost Rich flavours lead to a lengthy spicy finish Yes please Bring to a barbecue if you can $21 CSPC +630541

Zuccardi 2012 Zeta Mendoza Argentina

A malbec-cabernet sauvignon blend that is also a blend of two different Mendoza appellations La Consulta and Gualtallary Deep and abundant fruit aromas with liquorice root and a touch of blueberry preserves Excellent balance of flavours on the palate too with the right structure and tannin for aging if desired Enjoy with a prime rib or even meaty pasta dishes or game $50-52 CSPC +740270

Zuccardi 2012 ldquoEmmardquo Bonarda Mendoza Argentina

In my humble opinion one of the finest bonardas coming out of Argentina Notes of coffee bean and espresso complement cherry and blackberry fruits with healthy balanced tannins to stand up to the tart fruits Delicious for sure enjoy at your next barbecue $40 CSPC +758407

Luigi Bosca 2011 Cabernet-Malbec Mendoza Argentina

A wonderfully earthy and savoury blend with plenty of tobacco spice leather and yes lots of fruit too The earthy flavours work well with the big dark chocolate flavours and weighty tannins Drink now or through 2020 or so - with a steak naturally $22-24 CSPC +766010

Trivento 2013 Golden Reserve Malbec Lujan de Cuyo Argentina While there is a trend to see a lot of premium malbecs move away from oak presence this one is a bold smooth and delicious example that is seeing about a year of oak All those berry fruits plums and herb notes malbec is known for along with the smoothness that only oak brings Kick back relax maybe cook up some steaks - enjoy About $24 CSPC +711402

Trivento 2014 Malbec Reserve Mendoza Argentina Nearly unbeatable for good malbec at a great price itrsquos rich and chocolatey on the nose with big fruits and oak tones too Mild garrigue notes or dried herb flavours with plenty of fruit and tannins - still showing a fine sense of balance Enjoy with beef $14 CSPC +730714

Luigi Bosca 2011 De Sangre Mendoza Argentina A blend of cabernet sauvignon merlot and syrah that manages to pull out the best of each varietal Earthy and slightly smoky with good fruits and plenty of versatility Tannins are well-placed against the fruits with a long smooth finish Irsquove been a fan of this wine year after year Good to keep a couple on hand in the cellar About $29 CSPC +745106

Salentein 2012 Numina Gran Corte Uco Valley Argentina A malbec-dominated Bordeaux blend this stunner is all about ripe fruits cedar pepper cherries and plum with a little tealeaf and the right amount of tannins Very very well balanced and like any great wine think about some food to go with it Beef tenderloin slow cooked meats or maybe at your next asadohellip About $40 CSPC +764706

Colonia Las Liebres 2013 Bonarda Mendoza Argentina Bear with me here - a fine bonarda with plenty of earthy smoky aromas leading to rubber charred cherries and cocoa Some pretty prominent tannins to be found as well but wow does it all come together A wine that just begs for duck with cranberries or maybe some kebabshellip$20 CSPC +773381

42

Open That Bottleby LINDA GARSON photography by INGRID KUENZEL

ldquoIf you work in a place and yoursquore miserable I donrsquot know if there is a dollar amount that can be attached to that The work that yoursquore doing has to be rewarding and challengingrdquo says Karen KhoGrowing up in Niagara Falls in a Philippino SpanishChinese family Kho was surrounded by food and drinks with an open door policy that has had a huge influence on the person she is today - an

entertainer who likes to make people feel welcome ldquoMy parents wanted me to be a lawyer there was definitely an encouragement to use my voice for goodrdquo she explains ldquoAnd I still think I help people but in a different way a very social wayrdquo

Graduating Western University with a political science degree in 2000 Kho spent a year travelling and living in Australia before taking a leap of faith and moving to Calgary Here she studied wine with the International Sommeliers Guild and WSET but says her real education was a job she adored working in the wine trade at BIN 905 in tandem with running wine programs for CRMR restaurants It was only when the opportunity came to create the wine program at Vin Room six years later that Kho leapt at the challenge of a new idea for the city and spent four happy years there

Eventually she and her partner decided to stretch their wings and went to Vancouver where Kho embarked on a six-month culinary course at the Pacific Institute of Culinary Arts ticking off another box on her bucket list ldquoI wanted a greater understanding of technique in the kitchen and I wanted an understanding of what service on a very basic level would look like if I ever owned my own place and ever had to be the person who filled inrdquo she says ldquoI feel if I was ever in a place that needed someone to chop onions Irsquom your womanrdquo she laughs

A year later the pair came back with the idea of eventually opening their own business in Calgary ldquoThe support we get from this community is heartfelt and this is a city of opportunity People with the right concept are seeing a lot of great success itrsquos still our game planrdquo she says Meanwhile Kho applied only to Teatro where she is now Group Service Director

ldquoI wanted to work at a place that had a challenging wine program and had a level of service with high expectations and where professional service teams

applyrdquo she says ldquoItrsquos pretty romantic to work for a company that has been built on a foundation of service Successful businesses in the restaurant industry get the grand picture which is the moments that yoursquore creating for people and I like to be a part of thatrdquo she adds

So what bottle is Kho saving for a special occasion

Paying homage to her time at BIN 905 Kho explains ldquoI have a bottle of 1996 Chateau Mouton Rothschild which was given to me with some very kind words on my last day at BIN Irsquove always just appreciated my time there it was where I learned the vernacular of wine and itrsquos my first job where I really saw the benefits of serving people with intentionrdquo She continues ldquoI always see it thankfully as the stepping-stone to a broader wine profession and eventually to the position that I have now It was given to me by very close friends that Irsquom still friends with to this dayrdquo

And when is she planning to open the wine

ldquoWhen (partner) Dave and I open our own restaurantrdquo Kho says This isnrsquot something that something that will happen tomorrow but fortunately the wine will last until theyrsquore ready

Charcoal-grilled prime cutsHand-muddled caipirinhas50+ salad bar optionsThree distinct private rooms

pampasteakhousecomcalgary

521 10 Avenue SWCalgary AB

(587) 354-3441

See this weekrsquos promotion

eatpampayyc

1316-9th Avenue SE bull (403) 514-0577 bull knifewearYYC bull knifewearcom

Culinaire April 2016indd 2 2016-03-04 501 PM

32

story by RENEE KOHLMAN

Cheesecake is one of those classic desserts that almost everyone loves unless of course you have a dairy allergy then yoursquoll stay far far away from it While it may seem too complicated to make at home I assure you that itrsquos not

Spice it up cheesecake

Sure there are a few steps involved but the key thing to remember is to have your eggs and cream cheese at room temperature For the best crack-free cheesecake itrsquos best to bake it in a water bath It yields a light creamy texture and is well worth the effort Cheesecake always tastes better the next day so bake it the day before you want to serve it Now that wersquove got the basics down itrsquos time to have a little fun with the crust filling and toppings

The Base

The classic graham cracker crust is fine but every now and again itrsquos great to switch things up Try

ndash Grinding up ginger cookies They work especially well for a pumpkin cheesecake

ndash Chocolate cookie crumbs are fantastic for caramel peanut butter and raspberry cheesecakes

ndash Add finely chopped nuts oats or seeds to the cookie crumbs for added texture and taste

The Middle

Therersquos something to be said for a straight up vanilla or chocolate cheesecake but with some fun add-ins they could take your cheesecake to the next level of deliciousness Try

ndash Swirling tahini dulce de leche salted caramel or chocolate fudge sauce into a creamy vanilla filling

ndash Mix in chopped chocolate peanut butter cups to a chocolate filling

ndash Drop fresh berries (raspberries blueberries blackberries) on top of a vanilla filling

ndash Stir in chopped candied ginger dried cherries or cranberries chopped toasted nuts to the filling

ndash Swap some of the cream cheese with ricotta mascarpone cheese or even strained cottage cheese

ndash You can never go wrong with lemon zest in a vanilla cheesecake

Have a little fun with the crust filling

and toppings

33

Apple Crumble CheesecakeMakes about 12-14 servings Total cook and prep time 3 hours (plus overnight chilling)

I love apple crisp and I love cheesecake This recipe is a fine marriage of both and makes a more than acceptable breakfast The base is a crumble of oats and flour the middle is classic cheesecake and itrsquos topped with cinnamon apples and a buttery oat streusel

Crust 2 cups large flake oats1 cup all purpose flour cup packed brown sugarfrac34 cup butter meltedfrac12 tsp salt

Cheesecake Layer3 - 225 g packages cream cheese at room temperature cup granulated sugar1 tsp (5 mL) vanilla3 large eggs at room temperature cup (80 mL) whipping cream

Apple Layer2 apples peeled cored and sliced about 3-4 mm thick1 tsp ground cinnamonfrac12 tsp salt

Streusel Layer1 cup large flake oatsfrac12 cup all-purpose flourfrac12 cup brown sugarfrac12 cup butter softened1 tsp ground cinnamon

Preheat the oven to 375ordm F

1 Butter the bottom and sides of a 9-inch springform pan with sides that are at least 7 cm high Wrap the bottom of the pan in aluminum foil so it comes at least halfway up the sides

2 Combine the crust ingredients in a large bowl Press the crust evenly into the pan and place on a baking sheet Bake for 10 minutes Remove from oven and let it cool on a wire rack

3 Reduce heat to 325ordm F Put a kettle of water on to boil Have a large roasting pan close by

4 Using a stand mixer with a paddle attachment beat the cream cheese at medium speed for 4 minutes scraping down the sides once or twice until it is soft and creamy With the mixer still running add the sugar and beat for another 4 minutes scraping down the sides of the bowl at least twice Beat in the vanilla Add the eggs one at a time beating for 1 minute after each addition and scraping the bowl Reduce speed to low and add the whipping cream

5 Toss the sliced apples with the cinnamon and salt in a small bowl Combine all of the streusel ingredients in a medium bowl and mix well

6 Place the springform pan in the roasting pan Give the cheesecake batter a good stir and pour it on top of the crust Arrange the apples on top and sprinkle the streusel on top of the apples

7 Place in the oven on the middle rack and pour the hot water into the roasting pan so it comes halfway up the sides of the springform pan

8 Bake the cheesecake for 1frac12 hours Turn off the heat prop open the oven door and let the cheesecake hang inside for another hour

9 Carefully remove from the oven and take out the cheesecake from the hot water bath Remove the foil and let the cheesecake come to room temperature on a wire rack Cover the top lightly and refrigerate for at least 4 hours but overnight is best The next day remove the sides of the pan and serve the cake

Renee is a food writer and pastry chef living in beautiful Saskatoon Saskatchewan Her columns appear in The Saskatoon StarPhoenix and her desserts can be enjoyed at Riverside Country Club Also check out her blog wwwsweetsugarbeancom

The Toppings

Cheesecake with no fun toppings is like a salad with no dressing it just doesnrsquot reach its full flavour potential Try

ndash Salted caramel roasted strawberry sauce or warm chocolate sauce

ndash A rhubarbcardamom compote is divine on top of vanilla cheesecake kissed with a bit of lemon zest Cherry compote is divine with chocolate cheesecake

ndash Have a favourite jam Melt it down with a tiny bit of water and drizzle it on top of your favourite cheesecake

ndash Candied nuts and citrus rind chocolate shavings even crumbled cookies are a fun way to add texture to the cheesecake

ndash Never underestimate the power of fresh seasonal berries and a well-made cheesecakeMacerate them in a little sugar and minced mint or basil and they make a lovely topping Donrsquot forget the whipped cream

34

Think about that for a moment and let that sink in like a cherry in your drink

So how old is ice in bars Well thatrsquos a whole story on its own however the Old Fashioned has been talked about in one form or another since the beginning of the 19th Century The first appearance of this classic cocktail was in the Balance and Columbian Repository newspaper in 1806 as such ldquoA stimulating liquor composed of spirits of any kind sugar water and bittersrdquo

The Old FashionedAn Iconic Drink That Has Stood The Test Of Time

by BRICE PERESSINI

Sohelliphow old is the Old Fashioned The Old Fashioned is as old as ice in bars

When you follow these instructions and put this finely-crafted cocktail into your hand swirl around the ice gaze through the caramel-coloured liquid in the glass and contemplate all that has gone into it you can rest assured you are holding a drink that has delighted taste buds for generations The Old Fashioned however has not always been held in high regard There was a time not too long ago where this fine concoction was an unbalanced fruity watered-down pale imitation of itself More recently

there has been a renaissance involved with this invigorating intoxicant and you can and should expect a proper cocktail when it is ordered at a fine establishment

When this drink is properly prepared it should be in perfect balance (as any proper drink should be) The sweetness of the sugar should not cover the flavour of the bourbon and the bitters should add to not overpower the flavour of the whiskey When the Old Fashioned is well made it is as close to cocktail perfection as a sophisticated patron could expect

Befriend a bespoke barkeep at an upstanding establishment and you will be in trusted hands If you find yourself at home and wanting for a nightcap look no further than the Old Fashioned

Enjoy friends

Old Fashioned Recipe

2 oz Buffalo Trace Bourbon (or your personal favourite)4 dashes Angostura Aromatic Bitters1 raw sugar cube

Muddle the sugar and bitters together with a touch of warm water in a rocks glass Add the bourbon then add ice Stir and garnish with an orange peel and cherry (optional)

Brice is a competition cocktail bartender who plies his trade behind the wood at Chefbar Whisk(e)y is his poison Neat

35

Shoulder Season Wines

by JACLYN ADOMEIT

Wines For Cool Weather

Refreshing white wines match with sunny patios and hot days while bold tannic red wines earn their keep by a fireplace on a winter night Common sense But what about the shoulder season What if yoursquore eating sea bass on a rainy spring day Or sipping wine on a patio during an uncommonly warm April afternoon

Photograph courtesy Tom Firth

36

Wine not only pairs with food but with temperatures and seasons A bright sauvignon blanc can taste flat and acidic on a cold night at no fault of the wine or the drinker Some white wines are other-worldly at the vineyard tasting room in the summer but fall flat when you pull them out for dinner guests in the winter

The change in taste is likely due to a number of factors Anatomically it is your sinus cavities creating the change Higher atmospheric pressures allow your nose to pick out subtle aromas while lower pressures bring out a winersquos acidity and harsh tannins CO2 degasses from liquid at low pressure leaving wines dull and flat too

Serving temperature can greatly affect a winersquos aromatics white wines chilled to near-freezing have dull aromas (Tip allow the bottle a half hour on the counter before popping the cork This will allow the aromatics to warm up enhancing the flavour)

Lastly your own palate will be partial to different flavours depending on sun snow wind and sleet but as a rule of thumb higher alcohol white wines (approximately 13 percent or more) will warm the soul and pair best with cooler weather

Here are some wine selections to go for when it is not too hot and not too cold so you can choose a pairing thatrsquos just right

Fiano

Yoursquoll notice that many of the best white wines for cold weather are grown in hot places Hot climates mean a longer growing season more sugar which leads to higher alcohol and often more robust and tropical flavours All of this is true for fiano - seldom grown outside of Campania in southern Italy Fiano produces age-worthy wines which are rich nutty and delicious

Feudi Di San Gregorio 2014 Campania Fiano di Avellino Italy A beautiful floral bouquet with candied lemon followed by honey-coated hazelnuts on the palate Worth cellaring for a few seasons The perfect dance partner for poultry CSPC +708589 $33

Viognier

Viognier is a white varietal that is best consumed at slightly higher temperatures A chilly glass of viognier will leave you with acid maybe oak and not much else Allow it to warm and you may experience peach pear and toasted almond

Traditionally grown in the warm south of France viognier is often a higher alcohol white wine with rich tropical flavours The heat of the alcohol with tropical flavours and lower acid makes viognier the perfect wine to sip while watching a late spring snowfall

Paul Mas 2014 Languedoc-Roussillon Viognier France Brimming with apricot almond lemon and ripe peach Contains hints of warming oak Pair with something savoury baked brie or spinach-filled puff pastry CSPC + 740978 $17

Dry Roseacute

There is so much more to be had from roseacute than white zinfandel And no itrsquos not just a mix of red and white wine The best roseacute is made from red skinned grapes that only sit on their skins for up to a day and a half to borrow colour and flavour then are fermented and processed

Refined examples of roseacute wines are often dry and have deep aromas of red fruits mild tannins and are savoury instead of sweet The French and Spanish craft great examples of dry roseacutes that are either a single varietal or a blend of grapes such as mourvegravedre grenache syrah or tempranillo

Muga Roseacute 2014 Rioja Grenache Viura and Tempranillo Spain A tamed Rioja Orange blossom woven together with strawberry and a palate of cherry and savoury soft cheese Ideal for charcuterie CSPC + 710261 $16

Orange Wine

Never heard of orange wine A commercial demand for natural wines has fostered a resurgence in ancient wine making practices While roseacute wines are reds that have been produced using white wine making practices orange wines are created from white grapes submitted to maceration and allowed to sit on the skins before fermentation the same practice employed in red winemaking

Unlike any white you have tasted orange wines are full-bodied have mild tannins and deep flavours - the characteristics that allow red wines to bring warmth to cool nights A must try for any wine buff

Allow the bottle a half hour on the counter

before popping the cork

The Bicicleta wines are characterized by their fruity expression and for offering more than

the traditional strains a clear example of this range`s innovation style and creativity

Cono Sur Vineyards amp Winery ConoSurVineyards ConoSurWinesconosurcom

The brewhouse at Wild Rose

Jaclynrsquos first passion was winemaking Shersquos worked in vineyards cellars and restaurants Currently she is a writer who daylights as an environmental engineer She believes that a good life like a good wine is not complete without balance

Nichol 2013 Naramata Pinot Gris Canada A Canadian example of orange wine with backbone Flavours of caramel apple roast nuts orange rind and peach CSPC +504159 $31

Oaked chardonnay

In and out with popular palates oak and chardonnay have been partners for a long time Oak paired with chardonnay can bring out butter richness toasted vanilla tree fruit and in the best examples shimmering minerality That is because oak aging is often accompanied by a malolactic fermentation process that smooths out rigid acids into lactic acid - the acid found in milk

Chardonnay is a grape of many talents and encounters a great diversity of production styles It is oaked examples that pair best with pensive rainy days They are full-bodied warming and complex

Wente Morning Fog 2014 Livermore Valley (California) Chardonnay USA Half oak-aged and malolactic-fermented half crisp and fresh this chardonnay brings together green apple vanilla and toasted oak A friend to cream sauce and roast chicken CSPC +175430 $18

In a province of mutable weather let your wine choices be as varied as the ever changing winds Cheers and herersquos to refined full-bodied cool-weather wines

38

Once yoursquore done with your magazine cover shoot like we did this month or prepping for dinner and have all of those odds and ends just sitting on the cutting board - you know carrot ends onion skins tips of celery stalks you get the point - donrsquot toss lsquoem

Instead place them into a large ziploc bag and straight into the freezer After a couple of weeks yoursquoll likely have four full freezer bags of vegetable bits ready to be turned into broth and herersquos how you do it

Making a big batch of vegetable broth doesnrsquot always mean a trip to the grocery store All you need to do is save those scraps This is a handy trick I learned years ago courtesy of Bon Appetit

No-Waste Vegetable Broth

by DAN CLAPSON

Odds And Ends BrothYields 8 cups (2 L)

12 cups (3 L) water4 full ziploc bags of vegetable trimmings1 yellow onion quartered4 cloves garlicAromatics of choice (I usually toss a couple of rosemary and thyme sprigs in there)To taste Salt and pepper

1 Place all ingredients in a large pot and bring to a boil on medium-high heat

2 Reduce to medium heat and let simmer uncovered for 1frac12 hours

3 Strain season to taste with salt and pepper and use as desired

Full circlePizza amp Oyster Bar

933 17 Ave SW bull fullcirclepizzaca

buck-a-shuck oysters

$1 oysters every night

9 pm - close Sunday-thursday 11 pm - close friday amp saturday

40

Salentein 2012 Reserve Chardonnay Uco Valley Argentina

Very very enjoyable chardonnay blowing me away with complexity varietal character and fine balance between oak lees and fruit Toffee baked apple tangerine and a little almond on the nose lead into silkily textured wine in the mouth Top shelf chardonnay that might be great with lobster tails mussels or poultry Around $20 CSPC +779479

Rutini 2013 Cabernet Malbec Mendoza Argentina

An exceptionally well put together blend - if you want rich berry fruits lots of body but maybe not tons of varietal characters from the individual components Lifted and bright fruits make for a very enjoyable glass Simply perfect for your next barbecue a roast or just chilling out with friends and family $26-30 CSPC +776822

Vinecol 2014 Organic Malbec Mendoza Argentina Fair Trade organic and vegan along with a good price is it still good Piles of fresh fruits (think smashed raspberries) with plenty of spice and soft herb-leaf aromas There are plenty of malbec flavours on the palate too Good for any day of the week with just a little tension between fruit tannin and acid it might be best with pub style burgers pulled pork or sausages About $16 CSPC +755296

Argentina is so much more than malbec While such a noble grape has found its best home in the high altitude vineyards of Argentina there is a lot going on with other grapes as well

Making The Case For Argentina

by TOM FIRTH

This massive country nestled up against the Andes mountains has a range of growing conditions suited to a number of grapes From Salta in the north to Patagonia in the south plenty of interesting wines are available here - many reasonably priced and of excellent quality So yes there are some

malbecs on these pages but please do try some of the other grapes and blends coming from Argentina too

Be sure to crack open a bottle of malbec on ldquoWorld Malbec Dayrdquo April 17 - who knows it might be nice enough to barbecue too

Photograph courtesy Tom Firth

41

Manos Negras 2011 Stone Soil Select Mendoza Argentina Quite new to the market this is a pretty enjoyable version of Argentinarsquos flagship grape Loads of blue fruit and raspberries with spices galore and a little compost Rich flavours lead to a lengthy spicy finish Yes please Bring to a barbecue if you can $21 CSPC +630541

Zuccardi 2012 Zeta Mendoza Argentina

A malbec-cabernet sauvignon blend that is also a blend of two different Mendoza appellations La Consulta and Gualtallary Deep and abundant fruit aromas with liquorice root and a touch of blueberry preserves Excellent balance of flavours on the palate too with the right structure and tannin for aging if desired Enjoy with a prime rib or even meaty pasta dishes or game $50-52 CSPC +740270

Zuccardi 2012 ldquoEmmardquo Bonarda Mendoza Argentina

In my humble opinion one of the finest bonardas coming out of Argentina Notes of coffee bean and espresso complement cherry and blackberry fruits with healthy balanced tannins to stand up to the tart fruits Delicious for sure enjoy at your next barbecue $40 CSPC +758407

Luigi Bosca 2011 Cabernet-Malbec Mendoza Argentina

A wonderfully earthy and savoury blend with plenty of tobacco spice leather and yes lots of fruit too The earthy flavours work well with the big dark chocolate flavours and weighty tannins Drink now or through 2020 or so - with a steak naturally $22-24 CSPC +766010

Trivento 2013 Golden Reserve Malbec Lujan de Cuyo Argentina While there is a trend to see a lot of premium malbecs move away from oak presence this one is a bold smooth and delicious example that is seeing about a year of oak All those berry fruits plums and herb notes malbec is known for along with the smoothness that only oak brings Kick back relax maybe cook up some steaks - enjoy About $24 CSPC +711402

Trivento 2014 Malbec Reserve Mendoza Argentina Nearly unbeatable for good malbec at a great price itrsquos rich and chocolatey on the nose with big fruits and oak tones too Mild garrigue notes or dried herb flavours with plenty of fruit and tannins - still showing a fine sense of balance Enjoy with beef $14 CSPC +730714

Luigi Bosca 2011 De Sangre Mendoza Argentina A blend of cabernet sauvignon merlot and syrah that manages to pull out the best of each varietal Earthy and slightly smoky with good fruits and plenty of versatility Tannins are well-placed against the fruits with a long smooth finish Irsquove been a fan of this wine year after year Good to keep a couple on hand in the cellar About $29 CSPC +745106

Salentein 2012 Numina Gran Corte Uco Valley Argentina A malbec-dominated Bordeaux blend this stunner is all about ripe fruits cedar pepper cherries and plum with a little tealeaf and the right amount of tannins Very very well balanced and like any great wine think about some food to go with it Beef tenderloin slow cooked meats or maybe at your next asadohellip About $40 CSPC +764706

Colonia Las Liebres 2013 Bonarda Mendoza Argentina Bear with me here - a fine bonarda with plenty of earthy smoky aromas leading to rubber charred cherries and cocoa Some pretty prominent tannins to be found as well but wow does it all come together A wine that just begs for duck with cranberries or maybe some kebabshellip$20 CSPC +773381

42

Open That Bottleby LINDA GARSON photography by INGRID KUENZEL

ldquoIf you work in a place and yoursquore miserable I donrsquot know if there is a dollar amount that can be attached to that The work that yoursquore doing has to be rewarding and challengingrdquo says Karen KhoGrowing up in Niagara Falls in a Philippino SpanishChinese family Kho was surrounded by food and drinks with an open door policy that has had a huge influence on the person she is today - an

entertainer who likes to make people feel welcome ldquoMy parents wanted me to be a lawyer there was definitely an encouragement to use my voice for goodrdquo she explains ldquoAnd I still think I help people but in a different way a very social wayrdquo

Graduating Western University with a political science degree in 2000 Kho spent a year travelling and living in Australia before taking a leap of faith and moving to Calgary Here she studied wine with the International Sommeliers Guild and WSET but says her real education was a job she adored working in the wine trade at BIN 905 in tandem with running wine programs for CRMR restaurants It was only when the opportunity came to create the wine program at Vin Room six years later that Kho leapt at the challenge of a new idea for the city and spent four happy years there

Eventually she and her partner decided to stretch their wings and went to Vancouver where Kho embarked on a six-month culinary course at the Pacific Institute of Culinary Arts ticking off another box on her bucket list ldquoI wanted a greater understanding of technique in the kitchen and I wanted an understanding of what service on a very basic level would look like if I ever owned my own place and ever had to be the person who filled inrdquo she says ldquoI feel if I was ever in a place that needed someone to chop onions Irsquom your womanrdquo she laughs

A year later the pair came back with the idea of eventually opening their own business in Calgary ldquoThe support we get from this community is heartfelt and this is a city of opportunity People with the right concept are seeing a lot of great success itrsquos still our game planrdquo she says Meanwhile Kho applied only to Teatro where she is now Group Service Director

ldquoI wanted to work at a place that had a challenging wine program and had a level of service with high expectations and where professional service teams

applyrdquo she says ldquoItrsquos pretty romantic to work for a company that has been built on a foundation of service Successful businesses in the restaurant industry get the grand picture which is the moments that yoursquore creating for people and I like to be a part of thatrdquo she adds

So what bottle is Kho saving for a special occasion

Paying homage to her time at BIN 905 Kho explains ldquoI have a bottle of 1996 Chateau Mouton Rothschild which was given to me with some very kind words on my last day at BIN Irsquove always just appreciated my time there it was where I learned the vernacular of wine and itrsquos my first job where I really saw the benefits of serving people with intentionrdquo She continues ldquoI always see it thankfully as the stepping-stone to a broader wine profession and eventually to the position that I have now It was given to me by very close friends that Irsquom still friends with to this dayrdquo

And when is she planning to open the wine

ldquoWhen (partner) Dave and I open our own restaurantrdquo Kho says This isnrsquot something that something that will happen tomorrow but fortunately the wine will last until theyrsquore ready

Charcoal-grilled prime cutsHand-muddled caipirinhas50+ salad bar optionsThree distinct private rooms

pampasteakhousecomcalgary

521 10 Avenue SWCalgary AB

(587) 354-3441

See this weekrsquos promotion

eatpampayyc

1316-9th Avenue SE bull (403) 514-0577 bull knifewearYYC bull knifewearcom

Culinaire April 2016indd 2 2016-03-04 501 PM

33

Apple Crumble CheesecakeMakes about 12-14 servings Total cook and prep time 3 hours (plus overnight chilling)

I love apple crisp and I love cheesecake This recipe is a fine marriage of both and makes a more than acceptable breakfast The base is a crumble of oats and flour the middle is classic cheesecake and itrsquos topped with cinnamon apples and a buttery oat streusel

Crust 2 cups large flake oats1 cup all purpose flour cup packed brown sugarfrac34 cup butter meltedfrac12 tsp salt

Cheesecake Layer3 - 225 g packages cream cheese at room temperature cup granulated sugar1 tsp (5 mL) vanilla3 large eggs at room temperature cup (80 mL) whipping cream

Apple Layer2 apples peeled cored and sliced about 3-4 mm thick1 tsp ground cinnamonfrac12 tsp salt

Streusel Layer1 cup large flake oatsfrac12 cup all-purpose flourfrac12 cup brown sugarfrac12 cup butter softened1 tsp ground cinnamon

Preheat the oven to 375ordm F

1 Butter the bottom and sides of a 9-inch springform pan with sides that are at least 7 cm high Wrap the bottom of the pan in aluminum foil so it comes at least halfway up the sides

2 Combine the crust ingredients in a large bowl Press the crust evenly into the pan and place on a baking sheet Bake for 10 minutes Remove from oven and let it cool on a wire rack

3 Reduce heat to 325ordm F Put a kettle of water on to boil Have a large roasting pan close by

4 Using a stand mixer with a paddle attachment beat the cream cheese at medium speed for 4 minutes scraping down the sides once or twice until it is soft and creamy With the mixer still running add the sugar and beat for another 4 minutes scraping down the sides of the bowl at least twice Beat in the vanilla Add the eggs one at a time beating for 1 minute after each addition and scraping the bowl Reduce speed to low and add the whipping cream

5 Toss the sliced apples with the cinnamon and salt in a small bowl Combine all of the streusel ingredients in a medium bowl and mix well

6 Place the springform pan in the roasting pan Give the cheesecake batter a good stir and pour it on top of the crust Arrange the apples on top and sprinkle the streusel on top of the apples

7 Place in the oven on the middle rack and pour the hot water into the roasting pan so it comes halfway up the sides of the springform pan

8 Bake the cheesecake for 1frac12 hours Turn off the heat prop open the oven door and let the cheesecake hang inside for another hour

9 Carefully remove from the oven and take out the cheesecake from the hot water bath Remove the foil and let the cheesecake come to room temperature on a wire rack Cover the top lightly and refrigerate for at least 4 hours but overnight is best The next day remove the sides of the pan and serve the cake

Renee is a food writer and pastry chef living in beautiful Saskatoon Saskatchewan Her columns appear in The Saskatoon StarPhoenix and her desserts can be enjoyed at Riverside Country Club Also check out her blog wwwsweetsugarbeancom

The Toppings

Cheesecake with no fun toppings is like a salad with no dressing it just doesnrsquot reach its full flavour potential Try

ndash Salted caramel roasted strawberry sauce or warm chocolate sauce

ndash A rhubarbcardamom compote is divine on top of vanilla cheesecake kissed with a bit of lemon zest Cherry compote is divine with chocolate cheesecake

ndash Have a favourite jam Melt it down with a tiny bit of water and drizzle it on top of your favourite cheesecake

ndash Candied nuts and citrus rind chocolate shavings even crumbled cookies are a fun way to add texture to the cheesecake

ndash Never underestimate the power of fresh seasonal berries and a well-made cheesecakeMacerate them in a little sugar and minced mint or basil and they make a lovely topping Donrsquot forget the whipped cream

34

Think about that for a moment and let that sink in like a cherry in your drink

So how old is ice in bars Well thatrsquos a whole story on its own however the Old Fashioned has been talked about in one form or another since the beginning of the 19th Century The first appearance of this classic cocktail was in the Balance and Columbian Repository newspaper in 1806 as such ldquoA stimulating liquor composed of spirits of any kind sugar water and bittersrdquo

The Old FashionedAn Iconic Drink That Has Stood The Test Of Time

by BRICE PERESSINI

Sohelliphow old is the Old Fashioned The Old Fashioned is as old as ice in bars

When you follow these instructions and put this finely-crafted cocktail into your hand swirl around the ice gaze through the caramel-coloured liquid in the glass and contemplate all that has gone into it you can rest assured you are holding a drink that has delighted taste buds for generations The Old Fashioned however has not always been held in high regard There was a time not too long ago where this fine concoction was an unbalanced fruity watered-down pale imitation of itself More recently

there has been a renaissance involved with this invigorating intoxicant and you can and should expect a proper cocktail when it is ordered at a fine establishment

When this drink is properly prepared it should be in perfect balance (as any proper drink should be) The sweetness of the sugar should not cover the flavour of the bourbon and the bitters should add to not overpower the flavour of the whiskey When the Old Fashioned is well made it is as close to cocktail perfection as a sophisticated patron could expect

Befriend a bespoke barkeep at an upstanding establishment and you will be in trusted hands If you find yourself at home and wanting for a nightcap look no further than the Old Fashioned

Enjoy friends

Old Fashioned Recipe

2 oz Buffalo Trace Bourbon (or your personal favourite)4 dashes Angostura Aromatic Bitters1 raw sugar cube

Muddle the sugar and bitters together with a touch of warm water in a rocks glass Add the bourbon then add ice Stir and garnish with an orange peel and cherry (optional)

Brice is a competition cocktail bartender who plies his trade behind the wood at Chefbar Whisk(e)y is his poison Neat

35

Shoulder Season Wines

by JACLYN ADOMEIT

Wines For Cool Weather

Refreshing white wines match with sunny patios and hot days while bold tannic red wines earn their keep by a fireplace on a winter night Common sense But what about the shoulder season What if yoursquore eating sea bass on a rainy spring day Or sipping wine on a patio during an uncommonly warm April afternoon

Photograph courtesy Tom Firth

36

Wine not only pairs with food but with temperatures and seasons A bright sauvignon blanc can taste flat and acidic on a cold night at no fault of the wine or the drinker Some white wines are other-worldly at the vineyard tasting room in the summer but fall flat when you pull them out for dinner guests in the winter

The change in taste is likely due to a number of factors Anatomically it is your sinus cavities creating the change Higher atmospheric pressures allow your nose to pick out subtle aromas while lower pressures bring out a winersquos acidity and harsh tannins CO2 degasses from liquid at low pressure leaving wines dull and flat too

Serving temperature can greatly affect a winersquos aromatics white wines chilled to near-freezing have dull aromas (Tip allow the bottle a half hour on the counter before popping the cork This will allow the aromatics to warm up enhancing the flavour)

Lastly your own palate will be partial to different flavours depending on sun snow wind and sleet but as a rule of thumb higher alcohol white wines (approximately 13 percent or more) will warm the soul and pair best with cooler weather

Here are some wine selections to go for when it is not too hot and not too cold so you can choose a pairing thatrsquos just right

Fiano

Yoursquoll notice that many of the best white wines for cold weather are grown in hot places Hot climates mean a longer growing season more sugar which leads to higher alcohol and often more robust and tropical flavours All of this is true for fiano - seldom grown outside of Campania in southern Italy Fiano produces age-worthy wines which are rich nutty and delicious

Feudi Di San Gregorio 2014 Campania Fiano di Avellino Italy A beautiful floral bouquet with candied lemon followed by honey-coated hazelnuts on the palate Worth cellaring for a few seasons The perfect dance partner for poultry CSPC +708589 $33

Viognier

Viognier is a white varietal that is best consumed at slightly higher temperatures A chilly glass of viognier will leave you with acid maybe oak and not much else Allow it to warm and you may experience peach pear and toasted almond

Traditionally grown in the warm south of France viognier is often a higher alcohol white wine with rich tropical flavours The heat of the alcohol with tropical flavours and lower acid makes viognier the perfect wine to sip while watching a late spring snowfall

Paul Mas 2014 Languedoc-Roussillon Viognier France Brimming with apricot almond lemon and ripe peach Contains hints of warming oak Pair with something savoury baked brie or spinach-filled puff pastry CSPC + 740978 $17

Dry Roseacute

There is so much more to be had from roseacute than white zinfandel And no itrsquos not just a mix of red and white wine The best roseacute is made from red skinned grapes that only sit on their skins for up to a day and a half to borrow colour and flavour then are fermented and processed

Refined examples of roseacute wines are often dry and have deep aromas of red fruits mild tannins and are savoury instead of sweet The French and Spanish craft great examples of dry roseacutes that are either a single varietal or a blend of grapes such as mourvegravedre grenache syrah or tempranillo

Muga Roseacute 2014 Rioja Grenache Viura and Tempranillo Spain A tamed Rioja Orange blossom woven together with strawberry and a palate of cherry and savoury soft cheese Ideal for charcuterie CSPC + 710261 $16

Orange Wine

Never heard of orange wine A commercial demand for natural wines has fostered a resurgence in ancient wine making practices While roseacute wines are reds that have been produced using white wine making practices orange wines are created from white grapes submitted to maceration and allowed to sit on the skins before fermentation the same practice employed in red winemaking

Unlike any white you have tasted orange wines are full-bodied have mild tannins and deep flavours - the characteristics that allow red wines to bring warmth to cool nights A must try for any wine buff

Allow the bottle a half hour on the counter

before popping the cork

The Bicicleta wines are characterized by their fruity expression and for offering more than

the traditional strains a clear example of this range`s innovation style and creativity

Cono Sur Vineyards amp Winery ConoSurVineyards ConoSurWinesconosurcom

The brewhouse at Wild Rose

Jaclynrsquos first passion was winemaking Shersquos worked in vineyards cellars and restaurants Currently she is a writer who daylights as an environmental engineer She believes that a good life like a good wine is not complete without balance

Nichol 2013 Naramata Pinot Gris Canada A Canadian example of orange wine with backbone Flavours of caramel apple roast nuts orange rind and peach CSPC +504159 $31

Oaked chardonnay

In and out with popular palates oak and chardonnay have been partners for a long time Oak paired with chardonnay can bring out butter richness toasted vanilla tree fruit and in the best examples shimmering minerality That is because oak aging is often accompanied by a malolactic fermentation process that smooths out rigid acids into lactic acid - the acid found in milk

Chardonnay is a grape of many talents and encounters a great diversity of production styles It is oaked examples that pair best with pensive rainy days They are full-bodied warming and complex

Wente Morning Fog 2014 Livermore Valley (California) Chardonnay USA Half oak-aged and malolactic-fermented half crisp and fresh this chardonnay brings together green apple vanilla and toasted oak A friend to cream sauce and roast chicken CSPC +175430 $18

In a province of mutable weather let your wine choices be as varied as the ever changing winds Cheers and herersquos to refined full-bodied cool-weather wines

38

Once yoursquore done with your magazine cover shoot like we did this month or prepping for dinner and have all of those odds and ends just sitting on the cutting board - you know carrot ends onion skins tips of celery stalks you get the point - donrsquot toss lsquoem

Instead place them into a large ziploc bag and straight into the freezer After a couple of weeks yoursquoll likely have four full freezer bags of vegetable bits ready to be turned into broth and herersquos how you do it

Making a big batch of vegetable broth doesnrsquot always mean a trip to the grocery store All you need to do is save those scraps This is a handy trick I learned years ago courtesy of Bon Appetit

No-Waste Vegetable Broth

by DAN CLAPSON

Odds And Ends BrothYields 8 cups (2 L)

12 cups (3 L) water4 full ziploc bags of vegetable trimmings1 yellow onion quartered4 cloves garlicAromatics of choice (I usually toss a couple of rosemary and thyme sprigs in there)To taste Salt and pepper

1 Place all ingredients in a large pot and bring to a boil on medium-high heat

2 Reduce to medium heat and let simmer uncovered for 1frac12 hours

3 Strain season to taste with salt and pepper and use as desired

Full circlePizza amp Oyster Bar

933 17 Ave SW bull fullcirclepizzaca

buck-a-shuck oysters

$1 oysters every night

9 pm - close Sunday-thursday 11 pm - close friday amp saturday

40

Salentein 2012 Reserve Chardonnay Uco Valley Argentina

Very very enjoyable chardonnay blowing me away with complexity varietal character and fine balance between oak lees and fruit Toffee baked apple tangerine and a little almond on the nose lead into silkily textured wine in the mouth Top shelf chardonnay that might be great with lobster tails mussels or poultry Around $20 CSPC +779479

Rutini 2013 Cabernet Malbec Mendoza Argentina

An exceptionally well put together blend - if you want rich berry fruits lots of body but maybe not tons of varietal characters from the individual components Lifted and bright fruits make for a very enjoyable glass Simply perfect for your next barbecue a roast or just chilling out with friends and family $26-30 CSPC +776822

Vinecol 2014 Organic Malbec Mendoza Argentina Fair Trade organic and vegan along with a good price is it still good Piles of fresh fruits (think smashed raspberries) with plenty of spice and soft herb-leaf aromas There are plenty of malbec flavours on the palate too Good for any day of the week with just a little tension between fruit tannin and acid it might be best with pub style burgers pulled pork or sausages About $16 CSPC +755296

Argentina is so much more than malbec While such a noble grape has found its best home in the high altitude vineyards of Argentina there is a lot going on with other grapes as well

Making The Case For Argentina

by TOM FIRTH

This massive country nestled up against the Andes mountains has a range of growing conditions suited to a number of grapes From Salta in the north to Patagonia in the south plenty of interesting wines are available here - many reasonably priced and of excellent quality So yes there are some

malbecs on these pages but please do try some of the other grapes and blends coming from Argentina too

Be sure to crack open a bottle of malbec on ldquoWorld Malbec Dayrdquo April 17 - who knows it might be nice enough to barbecue too

Photograph courtesy Tom Firth

41

Manos Negras 2011 Stone Soil Select Mendoza Argentina Quite new to the market this is a pretty enjoyable version of Argentinarsquos flagship grape Loads of blue fruit and raspberries with spices galore and a little compost Rich flavours lead to a lengthy spicy finish Yes please Bring to a barbecue if you can $21 CSPC +630541

Zuccardi 2012 Zeta Mendoza Argentina

A malbec-cabernet sauvignon blend that is also a blend of two different Mendoza appellations La Consulta and Gualtallary Deep and abundant fruit aromas with liquorice root and a touch of blueberry preserves Excellent balance of flavours on the palate too with the right structure and tannin for aging if desired Enjoy with a prime rib or even meaty pasta dishes or game $50-52 CSPC +740270

Zuccardi 2012 ldquoEmmardquo Bonarda Mendoza Argentina

In my humble opinion one of the finest bonardas coming out of Argentina Notes of coffee bean and espresso complement cherry and blackberry fruits with healthy balanced tannins to stand up to the tart fruits Delicious for sure enjoy at your next barbecue $40 CSPC +758407

Luigi Bosca 2011 Cabernet-Malbec Mendoza Argentina

A wonderfully earthy and savoury blend with plenty of tobacco spice leather and yes lots of fruit too The earthy flavours work well with the big dark chocolate flavours and weighty tannins Drink now or through 2020 or so - with a steak naturally $22-24 CSPC +766010

Trivento 2013 Golden Reserve Malbec Lujan de Cuyo Argentina While there is a trend to see a lot of premium malbecs move away from oak presence this one is a bold smooth and delicious example that is seeing about a year of oak All those berry fruits plums and herb notes malbec is known for along with the smoothness that only oak brings Kick back relax maybe cook up some steaks - enjoy About $24 CSPC +711402

Trivento 2014 Malbec Reserve Mendoza Argentina Nearly unbeatable for good malbec at a great price itrsquos rich and chocolatey on the nose with big fruits and oak tones too Mild garrigue notes or dried herb flavours with plenty of fruit and tannins - still showing a fine sense of balance Enjoy with beef $14 CSPC +730714

Luigi Bosca 2011 De Sangre Mendoza Argentina A blend of cabernet sauvignon merlot and syrah that manages to pull out the best of each varietal Earthy and slightly smoky with good fruits and plenty of versatility Tannins are well-placed against the fruits with a long smooth finish Irsquove been a fan of this wine year after year Good to keep a couple on hand in the cellar About $29 CSPC +745106

Salentein 2012 Numina Gran Corte Uco Valley Argentina A malbec-dominated Bordeaux blend this stunner is all about ripe fruits cedar pepper cherries and plum with a little tealeaf and the right amount of tannins Very very well balanced and like any great wine think about some food to go with it Beef tenderloin slow cooked meats or maybe at your next asadohellip About $40 CSPC +764706

Colonia Las Liebres 2013 Bonarda Mendoza Argentina Bear with me here - a fine bonarda with plenty of earthy smoky aromas leading to rubber charred cherries and cocoa Some pretty prominent tannins to be found as well but wow does it all come together A wine that just begs for duck with cranberries or maybe some kebabshellip$20 CSPC +773381

42

Open That Bottleby LINDA GARSON photography by INGRID KUENZEL

ldquoIf you work in a place and yoursquore miserable I donrsquot know if there is a dollar amount that can be attached to that The work that yoursquore doing has to be rewarding and challengingrdquo says Karen KhoGrowing up in Niagara Falls in a Philippino SpanishChinese family Kho was surrounded by food and drinks with an open door policy that has had a huge influence on the person she is today - an

entertainer who likes to make people feel welcome ldquoMy parents wanted me to be a lawyer there was definitely an encouragement to use my voice for goodrdquo she explains ldquoAnd I still think I help people but in a different way a very social wayrdquo

Graduating Western University with a political science degree in 2000 Kho spent a year travelling and living in Australia before taking a leap of faith and moving to Calgary Here she studied wine with the International Sommeliers Guild and WSET but says her real education was a job she adored working in the wine trade at BIN 905 in tandem with running wine programs for CRMR restaurants It was only when the opportunity came to create the wine program at Vin Room six years later that Kho leapt at the challenge of a new idea for the city and spent four happy years there

Eventually she and her partner decided to stretch their wings and went to Vancouver where Kho embarked on a six-month culinary course at the Pacific Institute of Culinary Arts ticking off another box on her bucket list ldquoI wanted a greater understanding of technique in the kitchen and I wanted an understanding of what service on a very basic level would look like if I ever owned my own place and ever had to be the person who filled inrdquo she says ldquoI feel if I was ever in a place that needed someone to chop onions Irsquom your womanrdquo she laughs

A year later the pair came back with the idea of eventually opening their own business in Calgary ldquoThe support we get from this community is heartfelt and this is a city of opportunity People with the right concept are seeing a lot of great success itrsquos still our game planrdquo she says Meanwhile Kho applied only to Teatro where she is now Group Service Director

ldquoI wanted to work at a place that had a challenging wine program and had a level of service with high expectations and where professional service teams

applyrdquo she says ldquoItrsquos pretty romantic to work for a company that has been built on a foundation of service Successful businesses in the restaurant industry get the grand picture which is the moments that yoursquore creating for people and I like to be a part of thatrdquo she adds

So what bottle is Kho saving for a special occasion

Paying homage to her time at BIN 905 Kho explains ldquoI have a bottle of 1996 Chateau Mouton Rothschild which was given to me with some very kind words on my last day at BIN Irsquove always just appreciated my time there it was where I learned the vernacular of wine and itrsquos my first job where I really saw the benefits of serving people with intentionrdquo She continues ldquoI always see it thankfully as the stepping-stone to a broader wine profession and eventually to the position that I have now It was given to me by very close friends that Irsquom still friends with to this dayrdquo

And when is she planning to open the wine

ldquoWhen (partner) Dave and I open our own restaurantrdquo Kho says This isnrsquot something that something that will happen tomorrow but fortunately the wine will last until theyrsquore ready

Charcoal-grilled prime cutsHand-muddled caipirinhas50+ salad bar optionsThree distinct private rooms

pampasteakhousecomcalgary

521 10 Avenue SWCalgary AB

(587) 354-3441

See this weekrsquos promotion

eatpampayyc

1316-9th Avenue SE bull (403) 514-0577 bull knifewearYYC bull knifewearcom

Culinaire April 2016indd 2 2016-03-04 501 PM

34

Think about that for a moment and let that sink in like a cherry in your drink

So how old is ice in bars Well thatrsquos a whole story on its own however the Old Fashioned has been talked about in one form or another since the beginning of the 19th Century The first appearance of this classic cocktail was in the Balance and Columbian Repository newspaper in 1806 as such ldquoA stimulating liquor composed of spirits of any kind sugar water and bittersrdquo

The Old FashionedAn Iconic Drink That Has Stood The Test Of Time

by BRICE PERESSINI

Sohelliphow old is the Old Fashioned The Old Fashioned is as old as ice in bars

When you follow these instructions and put this finely-crafted cocktail into your hand swirl around the ice gaze through the caramel-coloured liquid in the glass and contemplate all that has gone into it you can rest assured you are holding a drink that has delighted taste buds for generations The Old Fashioned however has not always been held in high regard There was a time not too long ago where this fine concoction was an unbalanced fruity watered-down pale imitation of itself More recently

there has been a renaissance involved with this invigorating intoxicant and you can and should expect a proper cocktail when it is ordered at a fine establishment

When this drink is properly prepared it should be in perfect balance (as any proper drink should be) The sweetness of the sugar should not cover the flavour of the bourbon and the bitters should add to not overpower the flavour of the whiskey When the Old Fashioned is well made it is as close to cocktail perfection as a sophisticated patron could expect

Befriend a bespoke barkeep at an upstanding establishment and you will be in trusted hands If you find yourself at home and wanting for a nightcap look no further than the Old Fashioned

Enjoy friends

Old Fashioned Recipe

2 oz Buffalo Trace Bourbon (or your personal favourite)4 dashes Angostura Aromatic Bitters1 raw sugar cube

Muddle the sugar and bitters together with a touch of warm water in a rocks glass Add the bourbon then add ice Stir and garnish with an orange peel and cherry (optional)

Brice is a competition cocktail bartender who plies his trade behind the wood at Chefbar Whisk(e)y is his poison Neat

35

Shoulder Season Wines

by JACLYN ADOMEIT

Wines For Cool Weather

Refreshing white wines match with sunny patios and hot days while bold tannic red wines earn their keep by a fireplace on a winter night Common sense But what about the shoulder season What if yoursquore eating sea bass on a rainy spring day Or sipping wine on a patio during an uncommonly warm April afternoon

Photograph courtesy Tom Firth

36

Wine not only pairs with food but with temperatures and seasons A bright sauvignon blanc can taste flat and acidic on a cold night at no fault of the wine or the drinker Some white wines are other-worldly at the vineyard tasting room in the summer but fall flat when you pull them out for dinner guests in the winter

The change in taste is likely due to a number of factors Anatomically it is your sinus cavities creating the change Higher atmospheric pressures allow your nose to pick out subtle aromas while lower pressures bring out a winersquos acidity and harsh tannins CO2 degasses from liquid at low pressure leaving wines dull and flat too

Serving temperature can greatly affect a winersquos aromatics white wines chilled to near-freezing have dull aromas (Tip allow the bottle a half hour on the counter before popping the cork This will allow the aromatics to warm up enhancing the flavour)

Lastly your own palate will be partial to different flavours depending on sun snow wind and sleet but as a rule of thumb higher alcohol white wines (approximately 13 percent or more) will warm the soul and pair best with cooler weather

Here are some wine selections to go for when it is not too hot and not too cold so you can choose a pairing thatrsquos just right

Fiano

Yoursquoll notice that many of the best white wines for cold weather are grown in hot places Hot climates mean a longer growing season more sugar which leads to higher alcohol and often more robust and tropical flavours All of this is true for fiano - seldom grown outside of Campania in southern Italy Fiano produces age-worthy wines which are rich nutty and delicious

Feudi Di San Gregorio 2014 Campania Fiano di Avellino Italy A beautiful floral bouquet with candied lemon followed by honey-coated hazelnuts on the palate Worth cellaring for a few seasons The perfect dance partner for poultry CSPC +708589 $33

Viognier

Viognier is a white varietal that is best consumed at slightly higher temperatures A chilly glass of viognier will leave you with acid maybe oak and not much else Allow it to warm and you may experience peach pear and toasted almond

Traditionally grown in the warm south of France viognier is often a higher alcohol white wine with rich tropical flavours The heat of the alcohol with tropical flavours and lower acid makes viognier the perfect wine to sip while watching a late spring snowfall

Paul Mas 2014 Languedoc-Roussillon Viognier France Brimming with apricot almond lemon and ripe peach Contains hints of warming oak Pair with something savoury baked brie or spinach-filled puff pastry CSPC + 740978 $17

Dry Roseacute

There is so much more to be had from roseacute than white zinfandel And no itrsquos not just a mix of red and white wine The best roseacute is made from red skinned grapes that only sit on their skins for up to a day and a half to borrow colour and flavour then are fermented and processed

Refined examples of roseacute wines are often dry and have deep aromas of red fruits mild tannins and are savoury instead of sweet The French and Spanish craft great examples of dry roseacutes that are either a single varietal or a blend of grapes such as mourvegravedre grenache syrah or tempranillo

Muga Roseacute 2014 Rioja Grenache Viura and Tempranillo Spain A tamed Rioja Orange blossom woven together with strawberry and a palate of cherry and savoury soft cheese Ideal for charcuterie CSPC + 710261 $16

Orange Wine

Never heard of orange wine A commercial demand for natural wines has fostered a resurgence in ancient wine making practices While roseacute wines are reds that have been produced using white wine making practices orange wines are created from white grapes submitted to maceration and allowed to sit on the skins before fermentation the same practice employed in red winemaking

Unlike any white you have tasted orange wines are full-bodied have mild tannins and deep flavours - the characteristics that allow red wines to bring warmth to cool nights A must try for any wine buff

Allow the bottle a half hour on the counter

before popping the cork

The Bicicleta wines are characterized by their fruity expression and for offering more than

the traditional strains a clear example of this range`s innovation style and creativity

Cono Sur Vineyards amp Winery ConoSurVineyards ConoSurWinesconosurcom

The brewhouse at Wild Rose

Jaclynrsquos first passion was winemaking Shersquos worked in vineyards cellars and restaurants Currently she is a writer who daylights as an environmental engineer She believes that a good life like a good wine is not complete without balance

Nichol 2013 Naramata Pinot Gris Canada A Canadian example of orange wine with backbone Flavours of caramel apple roast nuts orange rind and peach CSPC +504159 $31

Oaked chardonnay

In and out with popular palates oak and chardonnay have been partners for a long time Oak paired with chardonnay can bring out butter richness toasted vanilla tree fruit and in the best examples shimmering minerality That is because oak aging is often accompanied by a malolactic fermentation process that smooths out rigid acids into lactic acid - the acid found in milk

Chardonnay is a grape of many talents and encounters a great diversity of production styles It is oaked examples that pair best with pensive rainy days They are full-bodied warming and complex

Wente Morning Fog 2014 Livermore Valley (California) Chardonnay USA Half oak-aged and malolactic-fermented half crisp and fresh this chardonnay brings together green apple vanilla and toasted oak A friend to cream sauce and roast chicken CSPC +175430 $18

In a province of mutable weather let your wine choices be as varied as the ever changing winds Cheers and herersquos to refined full-bodied cool-weather wines

38

Once yoursquore done with your magazine cover shoot like we did this month or prepping for dinner and have all of those odds and ends just sitting on the cutting board - you know carrot ends onion skins tips of celery stalks you get the point - donrsquot toss lsquoem

Instead place them into a large ziploc bag and straight into the freezer After a couple of weeks yoursquoll likely have four full freezer bags of vegetable bits ready to be turned into broth and herersquos how you do it

Making a big batch of vegetable broth doesnrsquot always mean a trip to the grocery store All you need to do is save those scraps This is a handy trick I learned years ago courtesy of Bon Appetit

No-Waste Vegetable Broth

by DAN CLAPSON

Odds And Ends BrothYields 8 cups (2 L)

12 cups (3 L) water4 full ziploc bags of vegetable trimmings1 yellow onion quartered4 cloves garlicAromatics of choice (I usually toss a couple of rosemary and thyme sprigs in there)To taste Salt and pepper

1 Place all ingredients in a large pot and bring to a boil on medium-high heat

2 Reduce to medium heat and let simmer uncovered for 1frac12 hours

3 Strain season to taste with salt and pepper and use as desired

Full circlePizza amp Oyster Bar

933 17 Ave SW bull fullcirclepizzaca

buck-a-shuck oysters

$1 oysters every night

9 pm - close Sunday-thursday 11 pm - close friday amp saturday

40

Salentein 2012 Reserve Chardonnay Uco Valley Argentina

Very very enjoyable chardonnay blowing me away with complexity varietal character and fine balance between oak lees and fruit Toffee baked apple tangerine and a little almond on the nose lead into silkily textured wine in the mouth Top shelf chardonnay that might be great with lobster tails mussels or poultry Around $20 CSPC +779479

Rutini 2013 Cabernet Malbec Mendoza Argentina

An exceptionally well put together blend - if you want rich berry fruits lots of body but maybe not tons of varietal characters from the individual components Lifted and bright fruits make for a very enjoyable glass Simply perfect for your next barbecue a roast or just chilling out with friends and family $26-30 CSPC +776822

Vinecol 2014 Organic Malbec Mendoza Argentina Fair Trade organic and vegan along with a good price is it still good Piles of fresh fruits (think smashed raspberries) with plenty of spice and soft herb-leaf aromas There are plenty of malbec flavours on the palate too Good for any day of the week with just a little tension between fruit tannin and acid it might be best with pub style burgers pulled pork or sausages About $16 CSPC +755296

Argentina is so much more than malbec While such a noble grape has found its best home in the high altitude vineyards of Argentina there is a lot going on with other grapes as well

Making The Case For Argentina

by TOM FIRTH

This massive country nestled up against the Andes mountains has a range of growing conditions suited to a number of grapes From Salta in the north to Patagonia in the south plenty of interesting wines are available here - many reasonably priced and of excellent quality So yes there are some

malbecs on these pages but please do try some of the other grapes and blends coming from Argentina too

Be sure to crack open a bottle of malbec on ldquoWorld Malbec Dayrdquo April 17 - who knows it might be nice enough to barbecue too

Photograph courtesy Tom Firth

41

Manos Negras 2011 Stone Soil Select Mendoza Argentina Quite new to the market this is a pretty enjoyable version of Argentinarsquos flagship grape Loads of blue fruit and raspberries with spices galore and a little compost Rich flavours lead to a lengthy spicy finish Yes please Bring to a barbecue if you can $21 CSPC +630541

Zuccardi 2012 Zeta Mendoza Argentina

A malbec-cabernet sauvignon blend that is also a blend of two different Mendoza appellations La Consulta and Gualtallary Deep and abundant fruit aromas with liquorice root and a touch of blueberry preserves Excellent balance of flavours on the palate too with the right structure and tannin for aging if desired Enjoy with a prime rib or even meaty pasta dishes or game $50-52 CSPC +740270

Zuccardi 2012 ldquoEmmardquo Bonarda Mendoza Argentina

In my humble opinion one of the finest bonardas coming out of Argentina Notes of coffee bean and espresso complement cherry and blackberry fruits with healthy balanced tannins to stand up to the tart fruits Delicious for sure enjoy at your next barbecue $40 CSPC +758407

Luigi Bosca 2011 Cabernet-Malbec Mendoza Argentina

A wonderfully earthy and savoury blend with plenty of tobacco spice leather and yes lots of fruit too The earthy flavours work well with the big dark chocolate flavours and weighty tannins Drink now or through 2020 or so - with a steak naturally $22-24 CSPC +766010

Trivento 2013 Golden Reserve Malbec Lujan de Cuyo Argentina While there is a trend to see a lot of premium malbecs move away from oak presence this one is a bold smooth and delicious example that is seeing about a year of oak All those berry fruits plums and herb notes malbec is known for along with the smoothness that only oak brings Kick back relax maybe cook up some steaks - enjoy About $24 CSPC +711402

Trivento 2014 Malbec Reserve Mendoza Argentina Nearly unbeatable for good malbec at a great price itrsquos rich and chocolatey on the nose with big fruits and oak tones too Mild garrigue notes or dried herb flavours with plenty of fruit and tannins - still showing a fine sense of balance Enjoy with beef $14 CSPC +730714

Luigi Bosca 2011 De Sangre Mendoza Argentina A blend of cabernet sauvignon merlot and syrah that manages to pull out the best of each varietal Earthy and slightly smoky with good fruits and plenty of versatility Tannins are well-placed against the fruits with a long smooth finish Irsquove been a fan of this wine year after year Good to keep a couple on hand in the cellar About $29 CSPC +745106

Salentein 2012 Numina Gran Corte Uco Valley Argentina A malbec-dominated Bordeaux blend this stunner is all about ripe fruits cedar pepper cherries and plum with a little tealeaf and the right amount of tannins Very very well balanced and like any great wine think about some food to go with it Beef tenderloin slow cooked meats or maybe at your next asadohellip About $40 CSPC +764706

Colonia Las Liebres 2013 Bonarda Mendoza Argentina Bear with me here - a fine bonarda with plenty of earthy smoky aromas leading to rubber charred cherries and cocoa Some pretty prominent tannins to be found as well but wow does it all come together A wine that just begs for duck with cranberries or maybe some kebabshellip$20 CSPC +773381

42

Open That Bottleby LINDA GARSON photography by INGRID KUENZEL

ldquoIf you work in a place and yoursquore miserable I donrsquot know if there is a dollar amount that can be attached to that The work that yoursquore doing has to be rewarding and challengingrdquo says Karen KhoGrowing up in Niagara Falls in a Philippino SpanishChinese family Kho was surrounded by food and drinks with an open door policy that has had a huge influence on the person she is today - an

entertainer who likes to make people feel welcome ldquoMy parents wanted me to be a lawyer there was definitely an encouragement to use my voice for goodrdquo she explains ldquoAnd I still think I help people but in a different way a very social wayrdquo

Graduating Western University with a political science degree in 2000 Kho spent a year travelling and living in Australia before taking a leap of faith and moving to Calgary Here she studied wine with the International Sommeliers Guild and WSET but says her real education was a job she adored working in the wine trade at BIN 905 in tandem with running wine programs for CRMR restaurants It was only when the opportunity came to create the wine program at Vin Room six years later that Kho leapt at the challenge of a new idea for the city and spent four happy years there

Eventually she and her partner decided to stretch their wings and went to Vancouver where Kho embarked on a six-month culinary course at the Pacific Institute of Culinary Arts ticking off another box on her bucket list ldquoI wanted a greater understanding of technique in the kitchen and I wanted an understanding of what service on a very basic level would look like if I ever owned my own place and ever had to be the person who filled inrdquo she says ldquoI feel if I was ever in a place that needed someone to chop onions Irsquom your womanrdquo she laughs

A year later the pair came back with the idea of eventually opening their own business in Calgary ldquoThe support we get from this community is heartfelt and this is a city of opportunity People with the right concept are seeing a lot of great success itrsquos still our game planrdquo she says Meanwhile Kho applied only to Teatro where she is now Group Service Director

ldquoI wanted to work at a place that had a challenging wine program and had a level of service with high expectations and where professional service teams

applyrdquo she says ldquoItrsquos pretty romantic to work for a company that has been built on a foundation of service Successful businesses in the restaurant industry get the grand picture which is the moments that yoursquore creating for people and I like to be a part of thatrdquo she adds

So what bottle is Kho saving for a special occasion

Paying homage to her time at BIN 905 Kho explains ldquoI have a bottle of 1996 Chateau Mouton Rothschild which was given to me with some very kind words on my last day at BIN Irsquove always just appreciated my time there it was where I learned the vernacular of wine and itrsquos my first job where I really saw the benefits of serving people with intentionrdquo She continues ldquoI always see it thankfully as the stepping-stone to a broader wine profession and eventually to the position that I have now It was given to me by very close friends that Irsquom still friends with to this dayrdquo

And when is she planning to open the wine

ldquoWhen (partner) Dave and I open our own restaurantrdquo Kho says This isnrsquot something that something that will happen tomorrow but fortunately the wine will last until theyrsquore ready

Charcoal-grilled prime cutsHand-muddled caipirinhas50+ salad bar optionsThree distinct private rooms

pampasteakhousecomcalgary

521 10 Avenue SWCalgary AB

(587) 354-3441

See this weekrsquos promotion

eatpampayyc

1316-9th Avenue SE bull (403) 514-0577 bull knifewearYYC bull knifewearcom

Culinaire April 2016indd 2 2016-03-04 501 PM

35

Shoulder Season Wines

by JACLYN ADOMEIT

Wines For Cool Weather

Refreshing white wines match with sunny patios and hot days while bold tannic red wines earn their keep by a fireplace on a winter night Common sense But what about the shoulder season What if yoursquore eating sea bass on a rainy spring day Or sipping wine on a patio during an uncommonly warm April afternoon

Photograph courtesy Tom Firth

36

Wine not only pairs with food but with temperatures and seasons A bright sauvignon blanc can taste flat and acidic on a cold night at no fault of the wine or the drinker Some white wines are other-worldly at the vineyard tasting room in the summer but fall flat when you pull them out for dinner guests in the winter

The change in taste is likely due to a number of factors Anatomically it is your sinus cavities creating the change Higher atmospheric pressures allow your nose to pick out subtle aromas while lower pressures bring out a winersquos acidity and harsh tannins CO2 degasses from liquid at low pressure leaving wines dull and flat too

Serving temperature can greatly affect a winersquos aromatics white wines chilled to near-freezing have dull aromas (Tip allow the bottle a half hour on the counter before popping the cork This will allow the aromatics to warm up enhancing the flavour)

Lastly your own palate will be partial to different flavours depending on sun snow wind and sleet but as a rule of thumb higher alcohol white wines (approximately 13 percent or more) will warm the soul and pair best with cooler weather

Here are some wine selections to go for when it is not too hot and not too cold so you can choose a pairing thatrsquos just right

Fiano

Yoursquoll notice that many of the best white wines for cold weather are grown in hot places Hot climates mean a longer growing season more sugar which leads to higher alcohol and often more robust and tropical flavours All of this is true for fiano - seldom grown outside of Campania in southern Italy Fiano produces age-worthy wines which are rich nutty and delicious

Feudi Di San Gregorio 2014 Campania Fiano di Avellino Italy A beautiful floral bouquet with candied lemon followed by honey-coated hazelnuts on the palate Worth cellaring for a few seasons The perfect dance partner for poultry CSPC +708589 $33

Viognier

Viognier is a white varietal that is best consumed at slightly higher temperatures A chilly glass of viognier will leave you with acid maybe oak and not much else Allow it to warm and you may experience peach pear and toasted almond

Traditionally grown in the warm south of France viognier is often a higher alcohol white wine with rich tropical flavours The heat of the alcohol with tropical flavours and lower acid makes viognier the perfect wine to sip while watching a late spring snowfall

Paul Mas 2014 Languedoc-Roussillon Viognier France Brimming with apricot almond lemon and ripe peach Contains hints of warming oak Pair with something savoury baked brie or spinach-filled puff pastry CSPC + 740978 $17

Dry Roseacute

There is so much more to be had from roseacute than white zinfandel And no itrsquos not just a mix of red and white wine The best roseacute is made from red skinned grapes that only sit on their skins for up to a day and a half to borrow colour and flavour then are fermented and processed

Refined examples of roseacute wines are often dry and have deep aromas of red fruits mild tannins and are savoury instead of sweet The French and Spanish craft great examples of dry roseacutes that are either a single varietal or a blend of grapes such as mourvegravedre grenache syrah or tempranillo

Muga Roseacute 2014 Rioja Grenache Viura and Tempranillo Spain A tamed Rioja Orange blossom woven together with strawberry and a palate of cherry and savoury soft cheese Ideal for charcuterie CSPC + 710261 $16

Orange Wine

Never heard of orange wine A commercial demand for natural wines has fostered a resurgence in ancient wine making practices While roseacute wines are reds that have been produced using white wine making practices orange wines are created from white grapes submitted to maceration and allowed to sit on the skins before fermentation the same practice employed in red winemaking

Unlike any white you have tasted orange wines are full-bodied have mild tannins and deep flavours - the characteristics that allow red wines to bring warmth to cool nights A must try for any wine buff

Allow the bottle a half hour on the counter

before popping the cork

The Bicicleta wines are characterized by their fruity expression and for offering more than

the traditional strains a clear example of this range`s innovation style and creativity

Cono Sur Vineyards amp Winery ConoSurVineyards ConoSurWinesconosurcom

The brewhouse at Wild Rose

Jaclynrsquos first passion was winemaking Shersquos worked in vineyards cellars and restaurants Currently she is a writer who daylights as an environmental engineer She believes that a good life like a good wine is not complete without balance

Nichol 2013 Naramata Pinot Gris Canada A Canadian example of orange wine with backbone Flavours of caramel apple roast nuts orange rind and peach CSPC +504159 $31

Oaked chardonnay

In and out with popular palates oak and chardonnay have been partners for a long time Oak paired with chardonnay can bring out butter richness toasted vanilla tree fruit and in the best examples shimmering minerality That is because oak aging is often accompanied by a malolactic fermentation process that smooths out rigid acids into lactic acid - the acid found in milk

Chardonnay is a grape of many talents and encounters a great diversity of production styles It is oaked examples that pair best with pensive rainy days They are full-bodied warming and complex

Wente Morning Fog 2014 Livermore Valley (California) Chardonnay USA Half oak-aged and malolactic-fermented half crisp and fresh this chardonnay brings together green apple vanilla and toasted oak A friend to cream sauce and roast chicken CSPC +175430 $18

In a province of mutable weather let your wine choices be as varied as the ever changing winds Cheers and herersquos to refined full-bodied cool-weather wines

38

Once yoursquore done with your magazine cover shoot like we did this month or prepping for dinner and have all of those odds and ends just sitting on the cutting board - you know carrot ends onion skins tips of celery stalks you get the point - donrsquot toss lsquoem

Instead place them into a large ziploc bag and straight into the freezer After a couple of weeks yoursquoll likely have four full freezer bags of vegetable bits ready to be turned into broth and herersquos how you do it

Making a big batch of vegetable broth doesnrsquot always mean a trip to the grocery store All you need to do is save those scraps This is a handy trick I learned years ago courtesy of Bon Appetit

No-Waste Vegetable Broth

by DAN CLAPSON

Odds And Ends BrothYields 8 cups (2 L)

12 cups (3 L) water4 full ziploc bags of vegetable trimmings1 yellow onion quartered4 cloves garlicAromatics of choice (I usually toss a couple of rosemary and thyme sprigs in there)To taste Salt and pepper

1 Place all ingredients in a large pot and bring to a boil on medium-high heat

2 Reduce to medium heat and let simmer uncovered for 1frac12 hours

3 Strain season to taste with salt and pepper and use as desired

Full circlePizza amp Oyster Bar

933 17 Ave SW bull fullcirclepizzaca

buck-a-shuck oysters

$1 oysters every night

9 pm - close Sunday-thursday 11 pm - close friday amp saturday

40

Salentein 2012 Reserve Chardonnay Uco Valley Argentina

Very very enjoyable chardonnay blowing me away with complexity varietal character and fine balance between oak lees and fruit Toffee baked apple tangerine and a little almond on the nose lead into silkily textured wine in the mouth Top shelf chardonnay that might be great with lobster tails mussels or poultry Around $20 CSPC +779479

Rutini 2013 Cabernet Malbec Mendoza Argentina

An exceptionally well put together blend - if you want rich berry fruits lots of body but maybe not tons of varietal characters from the individual components Lifted and bright fruits make for a very enjoyable glass Simply perfect for your next barbecue a roast or just chilling out with friends and family $26-30 CSPC +776822

Vinecol 2014 Organic Malbec Mendoza Argentina Fair Trade organic and vegan along with a good price is it still good Piles of fresh fruits (think smashed raspberries) with plenty of spice and soft herb-leaf aromas There are plenty of malbec flavours on the palate too Good for any day of the week with just a little tension between fruit tannin and acid it might be best with pub style burgers pulled pork or sausages About $16 CSPC +755296

Argentina is so much more than malbec While such a noble grape has found its best home in the high altitude vineyards of Argentina there is a lot going on with other grapes as well

Making The Case For Argentina

by TOM FIRTH

This massive country nestled up against the Andes mountains has a range of growing conditions suited to a number of grapes From Salta in the north to Patagonia in the south plenty of interesting wines are available here - many reasonably priced and of excellent quality So yes there are some

malbecs on these pages but please do try some of the other grapes and blends coming from Argentina too

Be sure to crack open a bottle of malbec on ldquoWorld Malbec Dayrdquo April 17 - who knows it might be nice enough to barbecue too

Photograph courtesy Tom Firth

41

Manos Negras 2011 Stone Soil Select Mendoza Argentina Quite new to the market this is a pretty enjoyable version of Argentinarsquos flagship grape Loads of blue fruit and raspberries with spices galore and a little compost Rich flavours lead to a lengthy spicy finish Yes please Bring to a barbecue if you can $21 CSPC +630541

Zuccardi 2012 Zeta Mendoza Argentina

A malbec-cabernet sauvignon blend that is also a blend of two different Mendoza appellations La Consulta and Gualtallary Deep and abundant fruit aromas with liquorice root and a touch of blueberry preserves Excellent balance of flavours on the palate too with the right structure and tannin for aging if desired Enjoy with a prime rib or even meaty pasta dishes or game $50-52 CSPC +740270

Zuccardi 2012 ldquoEmmardquo Bonarda Mendoza Argentina

In my humble opinion one of the finest bonardas coming out of Argentina Notes of coffee bean and espresso complement cherry and blackberry fruits with healthy balanced tannins to stand up to the tart fruits Delicious for sure enjoy at your next barbecue $40 CSPC +758407

Luigi Bosca 2011 Cabernet-Malbec Mendoza Argentina

A wonderfully earthy and savoury blend with plenty of tobacco spice leather and yes lots of fruit too The earthy flavours work well with the big dark chocolate flavours and weighty tannins Drink now or through 2020 or so - with a steak naturally $22-24 CSPC +766010

Trivento 2013 Golden Reserve Malbec Lujan de Cuyo Argentina While there is a trend to see a lot of premium malbecs move away from oak presence this one is a bold smooth and delicious example that is seeing about a year of oak All those berry fruits plums and herb notes malbec is known for along with the smoothness that only oak brings Kick back relax maybe cook up some steaks - enjoy About $24 CSPC +711402

Trivento 2014 Malbec Reserve Mendoza Argentina Nearly unbeatable for good malbec at a great price itrsquos rich and chocolatey on the nose with big fruits and oak tones too Mild garrigue notes or dried herb flavours with plenty of fruit and tannins - still showing a fine sense of balance Enjoy with beef $14 CSPC +730714

Luigi Bosca 2011 De Sangre Mendoza Argentina A blend of cabernet sauvignon merlot and syrah that manages to pull out the best of each varietal Earthy and slightly smoky with good fruits and plenty of versatility Tannins are well-placed against the fruits with a long smooth finish Irsquove been a fan of this wine year after year Good to keep a couple on hand in the cellar About $29 CSPC +745106

Salentein 2012 Numina Gran Corte Uco Valley Argentina A malbec-dominated Bordeaux blend this stunner is all about ripe fruits cedar pepper cherries and plum with a little tealeaf and the right amount of tannins Very very well balanced and like any great wine think about some food to go with it Beef tenderloin slow cooked meats or maybe at your next asadohellip About $40 CSPC +764706

Colonia Las Liebres 2013 Bonarda Mendoza Argentina Bear with me here - a fine bonarda with plenty of earthy smoky aromas leading to rubber charred cherries and cocoa Some pretty prominent tannins to be found as well but wow does it all come together A wine that just begs for duck with cranberries or maybe some kebabshellip$20 CSPC +773381

42

Open That Bottleby LINDA GARSON photography by INGRID KUENZEL

ldquoIf you work in a place and yoursquore miserable I donrsquot know if there is a dollar amount that can be attached to that The work that yoursquore doing has to be rewarding and challengingrdquo says Karen KhoGrowing up in Niagara Falls in a Philippino SpanishChinese family Kho was surrounded by food and drinks with an open door policy that has had a huge influence on the person she is today - an

entertainer who likes to make people feel welcome ldquoMy parents wanted me to be a lawyer there was definitely an encouragement to use my voice for goodrdquo she explains ldquoAnd I still think I help people but in a different way a very social wayrdquo

Graduating Western University with a political science degree in 2000 Kho spent a year travelling and living in Australia before taking a leap of faith and moving to Calgary Here she studied wine with the International Sommeliers Guild and WSET but says her real education was a job she adored working in the wine trade at BIN 905 in tandem with running wine programs for CRMR restaurants It was only when the opportunity came to create the wine program at Vin Room six years later that Kho leapt at the challenge of a new idea for the city and spent four happy years there

Eventually she and her partner decided to stretch their wings and went to Vancouver where Kho embarked on a six-month culinary course at the Pacific Institute of Culinary Arts ticking off another box on her bucket list ldquoI wanted a greater understanding of technique in the kitchen and I wanted an understanding of what service on a very basic level would look like if I ever owned my own place and ever had to be the person who filled inrdquo she says ldquoI feel if I was ever in a place that needed someone to chop onions Irsquom your womanrdquo she laughs

A year later the pair came back with the idea of eventually opening their own business in Calgary ldquoThe support we get from this community is heartfelt and this is a city of opportunity People with the right concept are seeing a lot of great success itrsquos still our game planrdquo she says Meanwhile Kho applied only to Teatro where she is now Group Service Director

ldquoI wanted to work at a place that had a challenging wine program and had a level of service with high expectations and where professional service teams

applyrdquo she says ldquoItrsquos pretty romantic to work for a company that has been built on a foundation of service Successful businesses in the restaurant industry get the grand picture which is the moments that yoursquore creating for people and I like to be a part of thatrdquo she adds

So what bottle is Kho saving for a special occasion

Paying homage to her time at BIN 905 Kho explains ldquoI have a bottle of 1996 Chateau Mouton Rothschild which was given to me with some very kind words on my last day at BIN Irsquove always just appreciated my time there it was where I learned the vernacular of wine and itrsquos my first job where I really saw the benefits of serving people with intentionrdquo She continues ldquoI always see it thankfully as the stepping-stone to a broader wine profession and eventually to the position that I have now It was given to me by very close friends that Irsquom still friends with to this dayrdquo

And when is she planning to open the wine

ldquoWhen (partner) Dave and I open our own restaurantrdquo Kho says This isnrsquot something that something that will happen tomorrow but fortunately the wine will last until theyrsquore ready

Charcoal-grilled prime cutsHand-muddled caipirinhas50+ salad bar optionsThree distinct private rooms

pampasteakhousecomcalgary

521 10 Avenue SWCalgary AB

(587) 354-3441

See this weekrsquos promotion

eatpampayyc

1316-9th Avenue SE bull (403) 514-0577 bull knifewearYYC bull knifewearcom

Culinaire April 2016indd 2 2016-03-04 501 PM

36

Wine not only pairs with food but with temperatures and seasons A bright sauvignon blanc can taste flat and acidic on a cold night at no fault of the wine or the drinker Some white wines are other-worldly at the vineyard tasting room in the summer but fall flat when you pull them out for dinner guests in the winter

The change in taste is likely due to a number of factors Anatomically it is your sinus cavities creating the change Higher atmospheric pressures allow your nose to pick out subtle aromas while lower pressures bring out a winersquos acidity and harsh tannins CO2 degasses from liquid at low pressure leaving wines dull and flat too

Serving temperature can greatly affect a winersquos aromatics white wines chilled to near-freezing have dull aromas (Tip allow the bottle a half hour on the counter before popping the cork This will allow the aromatics to warm up enhancing the flavour)

Lastly your own palate will be partial to different flavours depending on sun snow wind and sleet but as a rule of thumb higher alcohol white wines (approximately 13 percent or more) will warm the soul and pair best with cooler weather

Here are some wine selections to go for when it is not too hot and not too cold so you can choose a pairing thatrsquos just right

Fiano

Yoursquoll notice that many of the best white wines for cold weather are grown in hot places Hot climates mean a longer growing season more sugar which leads to higher alcohol and often more robust and tropical flavours All of this is true for fiano - seldom grown outside of Campania in southern Italy Fiano produces age-worthy wines which are rich nutty and delicious

Feudi Di San Gregorio 2014 Campania Fiano di Avellino Italy A beautiful floral bouquet with candied lemon followed by honey-coated hazelnuts on the palate Worth cellaring for a few seasons The perfect dance partner for poultry CSPC +708589 $33

Viognier

Viognier is a white varietal that is best consumed at slightly higher temperatures A chilly glass of viognier will leave you with acid maybe oak and not much else Allow it to warm and you may experience peach pear and toasted almond

Traditionally grown in the warm south of France viognier is often a higher alcohol white wine with rich tropical flavours The heat of the alcohol with tropical flavours and lower acid makes viognier the perfect wine to sip while watching a late spring snowfall

Paul Mas 2014 Languedoc-Roussillon Viognier France Brimming with apricot almond lemon and ripe peach Contains hints of warming oak Pair with something savoury baked brie or spinach-filled puff pastry CSPC + 740978 $17

Dry Roseacute

There is so much more to be had from roseacute than white zinfandel And no itrsquos not just a mix of red and white wine The best roseacute is made from red skinned grapes that only sit on their skins for up to a day and a half to borrow colour and flavour then are fermented and processed

Refined examples of roseacute wines are often dry and have deep aromas of red fruits mild tannins and are savoury instead of sweet The French and Spanish craft great examples of dry roseacutes that are either a single varietal or a blend of grapes such as mourvegravedre grenache syrah or tempranillo

Muga Roseacute 2014 Rioja Grenache Viura and Tempranillo Spain A tamed Rioja Orange blossom woven together with strawberry and a palate of cherry and savoury soft cheese Ideal for charcuterie CSPC + 710261 $16

Orange Wine

Never heard of orange wine A commercial demand for natural wines has fostered a resurgence in ancient wine making practices While roseacute wines are reds that have been produced using white wine making practices orange wines are created from white grapes submitted to maceration and allowed to sit on the skins before fermentation the same practice employed in red winemaking

Unlike any white you have tasted orange wines are full-bodied have mild tannins and deep flavours - the characteristics that allow red wines to bring warmth to cool nights A must try for any wine buff

Allow the bottle a half hour on the counter

before popping the cork

The Bicicleta wines are characterized by their fruity expression and for offering more than

the traditional strains a clear example of this range`s innovation style and creativity

Cono Sur Vineyards amp Winery ConoSurVineyards ConoSurWinesconosurcom

The brewhouse at Wild Rose

Jaclynrsquos first passion was winemaking Shersquos worked in vineyards cellars and restaurants Currently she is a writer who daylights as an environmental engineer She believes that a good life like a good wine is not complete without balance

Nichol 2013 Naramata Pinot Gris Canada A Canadian example of orange wine with backbone Flavours of caramel apple roast nuts orange rind and peach CSPC +504159 $31

Oaked chardonnay

In and out with popular palates oak and chardonnay have been partners for a long time Oak paired with chardonnay can bring out butter richness toasted vanilla tree fruit and in the best examples shimmering minerality That is because oak aging is often accompanied by a malolactic fermentation process that smooths out rigid acids into lactic acid - the acid found in milk

Chardonnay is a grape of many talents and encounters a great diversity of production styles It is oaked examples that pair best with pensive rainy days They are full-bodied warming and complex

Wente Morning Fog 2014 Livermore Valley (California) Chardonnay USA Half oak-aged and malolactic-fermented half crisp and fresh this chardonnay brings together green apple vanilla and toasted oak A friend to cream sauce and roast chicken CSPC +175430 $18

In a province of mutable weather let your wine choices be as varied as the ever changing winds Cheers and herersquos to refined full-bodied cool-weather wines

38

Once yoursquore done with your magazine cover shoot like we did this month or prepping for dinner and have all of those odds and ends just sitting on the cutting board - you know carrot ends onion skins tips of celery stalks you get the point - donrsquot toss lsquoem

Instead place them into a large ziploc bag and straight into the freezer After a couple of weeks yoursquoll likely have four full freezer bags of vegetable bits ready to be turned into broth and herersquos how you do it

Making a big batch of vegetable broth doesnrsquot always mean a trip to the grocery store All you need to do is save those scraps This is a handy trick I learned years ago courtesy of Bon Appetit

No-Waste Vegetable Broth

by DAN CLAPSON

Odds And Ends BrothYields 8 cups (2 L)

12 cups (3 L) water4 full ziploc bags of vegetable trimmings1 yellow onion quartered4 cloves garlicAromatics of choice (I usually toss a couple of rosemary and thyme sprigs in there)To taste Salt and pepper

1 Place all ingredients in a large pot and bring to a boil on medium-high heat

2 Reduce to medium heat and let simmer uncovered for 1frac12 hours

3 Strain season to taste with salt and pepper and use as desired

Full circlePizza amp Oyster Bar

933 17 Ave SW bull fullcirclepizzaca

buck-a-shuck oysters

$1 oysters every night

9 pm - close Sunday-thursday 11 pm - close friday amp saturday

40

Salentein 2012 Reserve Chardonnay Uco Valley Argentina

Very very enjoyable chardonnay blowing me away with complexity varietal character and fine balance between oak lees and fruit Toffee baked apple tangerine and a little almond on the nose lead into silkily textured wine in the mouth Top shelf chardonnay that might be great with lobster tails mussels or poultry Around $20 CSPC +779479

Rutini 2013 Cabernet Malbec Mendoza Argentina

An exceptionally well put together blend - if you want rich berry fruits lots of body but maybe not tons of varietal characters from the individual components Lifted and bright fruits make for a very enjoyable glass Simply perfect for your next barbecue a roast or just chilling out with friends and family $26-30 CSPC +776822

Vinecol 2014 Organic Malbec Mendoza Argentina Fair Trade organic and vegan along with a good price is it still good Piles of fresh fruits (think smashed raspberries) with plenty of spice and soft herb-leaf aromas There are plenty of malbec flavours on the palate too Good for any day of the week with just a little tension between fruit tannin and acid it might be best with pub style burgers pulled pork or sausages About $16 CSPC +755296

Argentina is so much more than malbec While such a noble grape has found its best home in the high altitude vineyards of Argentina there is a lot going on with other grapes as well

Making The Case For Argentina

by TOM FIRTH

This massive country nestled up against the Andes mountains has a range of growing conditions suited to a number of grapes From Salta in the north to Patagonia in the south plenty of interesting wines are available here - many reasonably priced and of excellent quality So yes there are some

malbecs on these pages but please do try some of the other grapes and blends coming from Argentina too

Be sure to crack open a bottle of malbec on ldquoWorld Malbec Dayrdquo April 17 - who knows it might be nice enough to barbecue too

Photograph courtesy Tom Firth

41

Manos Negras 2011 Stone Soil Select Mendoza Argentina Quite new to the market this is a pretty enjoyable version of Argentinarsquos flagship grape Loads of blue fruit and raspberries with spices galore and a little compost Rich flavours lead to a lengthy spicy finish Yes please Bring to a barbecue if you can $21 CSPC +630541

Zuccardi 2012 Zeta Mendoza Argentina

A malbec-cabernet sauvignon blend that is also a blend of two different Mendoza appellations La Consulta and Gualtallary Deep and abundant fruit aromas with liquorice root and a touch of blueberry preserves Excellent balance of flavours on the palate too with the right structure and tannin for aging if desired Enjoy with a prime rib or even meaty pasta dishes or game $50-52 CSPC +740270

Zuccardi 2012 ldquoEmmardquo Bonarda Mendoza Argentina

In my humble opinion one of the finest bonardas coming out of Argentina Notes of coffee bean and espresso complement cherry and blackberry fruits with healthy balanced tannins to stand up to the tart fruits Delicious for sure enjoy at your next barbecue $40 CSPC +758407

Luigi Bosca 2011 Cabernet-Malbec Mendoza Argentina

A wonderfully earthy and savoury blend with plenty of tobacco spice leather and yes lots of fruit too The earthy flavours work well with the big dark chocolate flavours and weighty tannins Drink now or through 2020 or so - with a steak naturally $22-24 CSPC +766010

Trivento 2013 Golden Reserve Malbec Lujan de Cuyo Argentina While there is a trend to see a lot of premium malbecs move away from oak presence this one is a bold smooth and delicious example that is seeing about a year of oak All those berry fruits plums and herb notes malbec is known for along with the smoothness that only oak brings Kick back relax maybe cook up some steaks - enjoy About $24 CSPC +711402

Trivento 2014 Malbec Reserve Mendoza Argentina Nearly unbeatable for good malbec at a great price itrsquos rich and chocolatey on the nose with big fruits and oak tones too Mild garrigue notes or dried herb flavours with plenty of fruit and tannins - still showing a fine sense of balance Enjoy with beef $14 CSPC +730714

Luigi Bosca 2011 De Sangre Mendoza Argentina A blend of cabernet sauvignon merlot and syrah that manages to pull out the best of each varietal Earthy and slightly smoky with good fruits and plenty of versatility Tannins are well-placed against the fruits with a long smooth finish Irsquove been a fan of this wine year after year Good to keep a couple on hand in the cellar About $29 CSPC +745106

Salentein 2012 Numina Gran Corte Uco Valley Argentina A malbec-dominated Bordeaux blend this stunner is all about ripe fruits cedar pepper cherries and plum with a little tealeaf and the right amount of tannins Very very well balanced and like any great wine think about some food to go with it Beef tenderloin slow cooked meats or maybe at your next asadohellip About $40 CSPC +764706

Colonia Las Liebres 2013 Bonarda Mendoza Argentina Bear with me here - a fine bonarda with plenty of earthy smoky aromas leading to rubber charred cherries and cocoa Some pretty prominent tannins to be found as well but wow does it all come together A wine that just begs for duck with cranberries or maybe some kebabshellip$20 CSPC +773381

42

Open That Bottleby LINDA GARSON photography by INGRID KUENZEL

ldquoIf you work in a place and yoursquore miserable I donrsquot know if there is a dollar amount that can be attached to that The work that yoursquore doing has to be rewarding and challengingrdquo says Karen KhoGrowing up in Niagara Falls in a Philippino SpanishChinese family Kho was surrounded by food and drinks with an open door policy that has had a huge influence on the person she is today - an

entertainer who likes to make people feel welcome ldquoMy parents wanted me to be a lawyer there was definitely an encouragement to use my voice for goodrdquo she explains ldquoAnd I still think I help people but in a different way a very social wayrdquo

Graduating Western University with a political science degree in 2000 Kho spent a year travelling and living in Australia before taking a leap of faith and moving to Calgary Here she studied wine with the International Sommeliers Guild and WSET but says her real education was a job she adored working in the wine trade at BIN 905 in tandem with running wine programs for CRMR restaurants It was only when the opportunity came to create the wine program at Vin Room six years later that Kho leapt at the challenge of a new idea for the city and spent four happy years there

Eventually she and her partner decided to stretch their wings and went to Vancouver where Kho embarked on a six-month culinary course at the Pacific Institute of Culinary Arts ticking off another box on her bucket list ldquoI wanted a greater understanding of technique in the kitchen and I wanted an understanding of what service on a very basic level would look like if I ever owned my own place and ever had to be the person who filled inrdquo she says ldquoI feel if I was ever in a place that needed someone to chop onions Irsquom your womanrdquo she laughs

A year later the pair came back with the idea of eventually opening their own business in Calgary ldquoThe support we get from this community is heartfelt and this is a city of opportunity People with the right concept are seeing a lot of great success itrsquos still our game planrdquo she says Meanwhile Kho applied only to Teatro where she is now Group Service Director

ldquoI wanted to work at a place that had a challenging wine program and had a level of service with high expectations and where professional service teams

applyrdquo she says ldquoItrsquos pretty romantic to work for a company that has been built on a foundation of service Successful businesses in the restaurant industry get the grand picture which is the moments that yoursquore creating for people and I like to be a part of thatrdquo she adds

So what bottle is Kho saving for a special occasion

Paying homage to her time at BIN 905 Kho explains ldquoI have a bottle of 1996 Chateau Mouton Rothschild which was given to me with some very kind words on my last day at BIN Irsquove always just appreciated my time there it was where I learned the vernacular of wine and itrsquos my first job where I really saw the benefits of serving people with intentionrdquo She continues ldquoI always see it thankfully as the stepping-stone to a broader wine profession and eventually to the position that I have now It was given to me by very close friends that Irsquom still friends with to this dayrdquo

And when is she planning to open the wine

ldquoWhen (partner) Dave and I open our own restaurantrdquo Kho says This isnrsquot something that something that will happen tomorrow but fortunately the wine will last until theyrsquore ready

Charcoal-grilled prime cutsHand-muddled caipirinhas50+ salad bar optionsThree distinct private rooms

pampasteakhousecomcalgary

521 10 Avenue SWCalgary AB

(587) 354-3441

See this weekrsquos promotion

eatpampayyc

1316-9th Avenue SE bull (403) 514-0577 bull knifewearYYC bull knifewearcom

Culinaire April 2016indd 2 2016-03-04 501 PM

The Bicicleta wines are characterized by their fruity expression and for offering more than

the traditional strains a clear example of this range`s innovation style and creativity

Cono Sur Vineyards amp Winery ConoSurVineyards ConoSurWinesconosurcom

The brewhouse at Wild Rose

Jaclynrsquos first passion was winemaking Shersquos worked in vineyards cellars and restaurants Currently she is a writer who daylights as an environmental engineer She believes that a good life like a good wine is not complete without balance

Nichol 2013 Naramata Pinot Gris Canada A Canadian example of orange wine with backbone Flavours of caramel apple roast nuts orange rind and peach CSPC +504159 $31

Oaked chardonnay

In and out with popular palates oak and chardonnay have been partners for a long time Oak paired with chardonnay can bring out butter richness toasted vanilla tree fruit and in the best examples shimmering minerality That is because oak aging is often accompanied by a malolactic fermentation process that smooths out rigid acids into lactic acid - the acid found in milk

Chardonnay is a grape of many talents and encounters a great diversity of production styles It is oaked examples that pair best with pensive rainy days They are full-bodied warming and complex

Wente Morning Fog 2014 Livermore Valley (California) Chardonnay USA Half oak-aged and malolactic-fermented half crisp and fresh this chardonnay brings together green apple vanilla and toasted oak A friend to cream sauce and roast chicken CSPC +175430 $18

In a province of mutable weather let your wine choices be as varied as the ever changing winds Cheers and herersquos to refined full-bodied cool-weather wines

38

Once yoursquore done with your magazine cover shoot like we did this month or prepping for dinner and have all of those odds and ends just sitting on the cutting board - you know carrot ends onion skins tips of celery stalks you get the point - donrsquot toss lsquoem

Instead place them into a large ziploc bag and straight into the freezer After a couple of weeks yoursquoll likely have four full freezer bags of vegetable bits ready to be turned into broth and herersquos how you do it

Making a big batch of vegetable broth doesnrsquot always mean a trip to the grocery store All you need to do is save those scraps This is a handy trick I learned years ago courtesy of Bon Appetit

No-Waste Vegetable Broth

by DAN CLAPSON

Odds And Ends BrothYields 8 cups (2 L)

12 cups (3 L) water4 full ziploc bags of vegetable trimmings1 yellow onion quartered4 cloves garlicAromatics of choice (I usually toss a couple of rosemary and thyme sprigs in there)To taste Salt and pepper

1 Place all ingredients in a large pot and bring to a boil on medium-high heat

2 Reduce to medium heat and let simmer uncovered for 1frac12 hours

3 Strain season to taste with salt and pepper and use as desired

Full circlePizza amp Oyster Bar

933 17 Ave SW bull fullcirclepizzaca

buck-a-shuck oysters

$1 oysters every night

9 pm - close Sunday-thursday 11 pm - close friday amp saturday

40

Salentein 2012 Reserve Chardonnay Uco Valley Argentina

Very very enjoyable chardonnay blowing me away with complexity varietal character and fine balance between oak lees and fruit Toffee baked apple tangerine and a little almond on the nose lead into silkily textured wine in the mouth Top shelf chardonnay that might be great with lobster tails mussels or poultry Around $20 CSPC +779479

Rutini 2013 Cabernet Malbec Mendoza Argentina

An exceptionally well put together blend - if you want rich berry fruits lots of body but maybe not tons of varietal characters from the individual components Lifted and bright fruits make for a very enjoyable glass Simply perfect for your next barbecue a roast or just chilling out with friends and family $26-30 CSPC +776822

Vinecol 2014 Organic Malbec Mendoza Argentina Fair Trade organic and vegan along with a good price is it still good Piles of fresh fruits (think smashed raspberries) with plenty of spice and soft herb-leaf aromas There are plenty of malbec flavours on the palate too Good for any day of the week with just a little tension between fruit tannin and acid it might be best with pub style burgers pulled pork or sausages About $16 CSPC +755296

Argentina is so much more than malbec While such a noble grape has found its best home in the high altitude vineyards of Argentina there is a lot going on with other grapes as well

Making The Case For Argentina

by TOM FIRTH

This massive country nestled up against the Andes mountains has a range of growing conditions suited to a number of grapes From Salta in the north to Patagonia in the south plenty of interesting wines are available here - many reasonably priced and of excellent quality So yes there are some

malbecs on these pages but please do try some of the other grapes and blends coming from Argentina too

Be sure to crack open a bottle of malbec on ldquoWorld Malbec Dayrdquo April 17 - who knows it might be nice enough to barbecue too

Photograph courtesy Tom Firth

41

Manos Negras 2011 Stone Soil Select Mendoza Argentina Quite new to the market this is a pretty enjoyable version of Argentinarsquos flagship grape Loads of blue fruit and raspberries with spices galore and a little compost Rich flavours lead to a lengthy spicy finish Yes please Bring to a barbecue if you can $21 CSPC +630541

Zuccardi 2012 Zeta Mendoza Argentina

A malbec-cabernet sauvignon blend that is also a blend of two different Mendoza appellations La Consulta and Gualtallary Deep and abundant fruit aromas with liquorice root and a touch of blueberry preserves Excellent balance of flavours on the palate too with the right structure and tannin for aging if desired Enjoy with a prime rib or even meaty pasta dishes or game $50-52 CSPC +740270

Zuccardi 2012 ldquoEmmardquo Bonarda Mendoza Argentina

In my humble opinion one of the finest bonardas coming out of Argentina Notes of coffee bean and espresso complement cherry and blackberry fruits with healthy balanced tannins to stand up to the tart fruits Delicious for sure enjoy at your next barbecue $40 CSPC +758407

Luigi Bosca 2011 Cabernet-Malbec Mendoza Argentina

A wonderfully earthy and savoury blend with plenty of tobacco spice leather and yes lots of fruit too The earthy flavours work well with the big dark chocolate flavours and weighty tannins Drink now or through 2020 or so - with a steak naturally $22-24 CSPC +766010

Trivento 2013 Golden Reserve Malbec Lujan de Cuyo Argentina While there is a trend to see a lot of premium malbecs move away from oak presence this one is a bold smooth and delicious example that is seeing about a year of oak All those berry fruits plums and herb notes malbec is known for along with the smoothness that only oak brings Kick back relax maybe cook up some steaks - enjoy About $24 CSPC +711402

Trivento 2014 Malbec Reserve Mendoza Argentina Nearly unbeatable for good malbec at a great price itrsquos rich and chocolatey on the nose with big fruits and oak tones too Mild garrigue notes or dried herb flavours with plenty of fruit and tannins - still showing a fine sense of balance Enjoy with beef $14 CSPC +730714

Luigi Bosca 2011 De Sangre Mendoza Argentina A blend of cabernet sauvignon merlot and syrah that manages to pull out the best of each varietal Earthy and slightly smoky with good fruits and plenty of versatility Tannins are well-placed against the fruits with a long smooth finish Irsquove been a fan of this wine year after year Good to keep a couple on hand in the cellar About $29 CSPC +745106

Salentein 2012 Numina Gran Corte Uco Valley Argentina A malbec-dominated Bordeaux blend this stunner is all about ripe fruits cedar pepper cherries and plum with a little tealeaf and the right amount of tannins Very very well balanced and like any great wine think about some food to go with it Beef tenderloin slow cooked meats or maybe at your next asadohellip About $40 CSPC +764706

Colonia Las Liebres 2013 Bonarda Mendoza Argentina Bear with me here - a fine bonarda with plenty of earthy smoky aromas leading to rubber charred cherries and cocoa Some pretty prominent tannins to be found as well but wow does it all come together A wine that just begs for duck with cranberries or maybe some kebabshellip$20 CSPC +773381

42

Open That Bottleby LINDA GARSON photography by INGRID KUENZEL

ldquoIf you work in a place and yoursquore miserable I donrsquot know if there is a dollar amount that can be attached to that The work that yoursquore doing has to be rewarding and challengingrdquo says Karen KhoGrowing up in Niagara Falls in a Philippino SpanishChinese family Kho was surrounded by food and drinks with an open door policy that has had a huge influence on the person she is today - an

entertainer who likes to make people feel welcome ldquoMy parents wanted me to be a lawyer there was definitely an encouragement to use my voice for goodrdquo she explains ldquoAnd I still think I help people but in a different way a very social wayrdquo

Graduating Western University with a political science degree in 2000 Kho spent a year travelling and living in Australia before taking a leap of faith and moving to Calgary Here she studied wine with the International Sommeliers Guild and WSET but says her real education was a job she adored working in the wine trade at BIN 905 in tandem with running wine programs for CRMR restaurants It was only when the opportunity came to create the wine program at Vin Room six years later that Kho leapt at the challenge of a new idea for the city and spent four happy years there

Eventually she and her partner decided to stretch their wings and went to Vancouver where Kho embarked on a six-month culinary course at the Pacific Institute of Culinary Arts ticking off another box on her bucket list ldquoI wanted a greater understanding of technique in the kitchen and I wanted an understanding of what service on a very basic level would look like if I ever owned my own place and ever had to be the person who filled inrdquo she says ldquoI feel if I was ever in a place that needed someone to chop onions Irsquom your womanrdquo she laughs

A year later the pair came back with the idea of eventually opening their own business in Calgary ldquoThe support we get from this community is heartfelt and this is a city of opportunity People with the right concept are seeing a lot of great success itrsquos still our game planrdquo she says Meanwhile Kho applied only to Teatro where she is now Group Service Director

ldquoI wanted to work at a place that had a challenging wine program and had a level of service with high expectations and where professional service teams

applyrdquo she says ldquoItrsquos pretty romantic to work for a company that has been built on a foundation of service Successful businesses in the restaurant industry get the grand picture which is the moments that yoursquore creating for people and I like to be a part of thatrdquo she adds

So what bottle is Kho saving for a special occasion

Paying homage to her time at BIN 905 Kho explains ldquoI have a bottle of 1996 Chateau Mouton Rothschild which was given to me with some very kind words on my last day at BIN Irsquove always just appreciated my time there it was where I learned the vernacular of wine and itrsquos my first job where I really saw the benefits of serving people with intentionrdquo She continues ldquoI always see it thankfully as the stepping-stone to a broader wine profession and eventually to the position that I have now It was given to me by very close friends that Irsquom still friends with to this dayrdquo

And when is she planning to open the wine

ldquoWhen (partner) Dave and I open our own restaurantrdquo Kho says This isnrsquot something that something that will happen tomorrow but fortunately the wine will last until theyrsquore ready

Charcoal-grilled prime cutsHand-muddled caipirinhas50+ salad bar optionsThree distinct private rooms

pampasteakhousecomcalgary

521 10 Avenue SWCalgary AB

(587) 354-3441

See this weekrsquos promotion

eatpampayyc

1316-9th Avenue SE bull (403) 514-0577 bull knifewearYYC bull knifewearcom

Culinaire April 2016indd 2 2016-03-04 501 PM

38

Once yoursquore done with your magazine cover shoot like we did this month or prepping for dinner and have all of those odds and ends just sitting on the cutting board - you know carrot ends onion skins tips of celery stalks you get the point - donrsquot toss lsquoem

Instead place them into a large ziploc bag and straight into the freezer After a couple of weeks yoursquoll likely have four full freezer bags of vegetable bits ready to be turned into broth and herersquos how you do it

Making a big batch of vegetable broth doesnrsquot always mean a trip to the grocery store All you need to do is save those scraps This is a handy trick I learned years ago courtesy of Bon Appetit

No-Waste Vegetable Broth

by DAN CLAPSON

Odds And Ends BrothYields 8 cups (2 L)

12 cups (3 L) water4 full ziploc bags of vegetable trimmings1 yellow onion quartered4 cloves garlicAromatics of choice (I usually toss a couple of rosemary and thyme sprigs in there)To taste Salt and pepper

1 Place all ingredients in a large pot and bring to a boil on medium-high heat

2 Reduce to medium heat and let simmer uncovered for 1frac12 hours

3 Strain season to taste with salt and pepper and use as desired

Full circlePizza amp Oyster Bar

933 17 Ave SW bull fullcirclepizzaca

buck-a-shuck oysters

$1 oysters every night

9 pm - close Sunday-thursday 11 pm - close friday amp saturday

40

Salentein 2012 Reserve Chardonnay Uco Valley Argentina

Very very enjoyable chardonnay blowing me away with complexity varietal character and fine balance between oak lees and fruit Toffee baked apple tangerine and a little almond on the nose lead into silkily textured wine in the mouth Top shelf chardonnay that might be great with lobster tails mussels or poultry Around $20 CSPC +779479

Rutini 2013 Cabernet Malbec Mendoza Argentina

An exceptionally well put together blend - if you want rich berry fruits lots of body but maybe not tons of varietal characters from the individual components Lifted and bright fruits make for a very enjoyable glass Simply perfect for your next barbecue a roast or just chilling out with friends and family $26-30 CSPC +776822

Vinecol 2014 Organic Malbec Mendoza Argentina Fair Trade organic and vegan along with a good price is it still good Piles of fresh fruits (think smashed raspberries) with plenty of spice and soft herb-leaf aromas There are plenty of malbec flavours on the palate too Good for any day of the week with just a little tension between fruit tannin and acid it might be best with pub style burgers pulled pork or sausages About $16 CSPC +755296

Argentina is so much more than malbec While such a noble grape has found its best home in the high altitude vineyards of Argentina there is a lot going on with other grapes as well

Making The Case For Argentina

by TOM FIRTH

This massive country nestled up against the Andes mountains has a range of growing conditions suited to a number of grapes From Salta in the north to Patagonia in the south plenty of interesting wines are available here - many reasonably priced and of excellent quality So yes there are some

malbecs on these pages but please do try some of the other grapes and blends coming from Argentina too

Be sure to crack open a bottle of malbec on ldquoWorld Malbec Dayrdquo April 17 - who knows it might be nice enough to barbecue too

Photograph courtesy Tom Firth

41

Manos Negras 2011 Stone Soil Select Mendoza Argentina Quite new to the market this is a pretty enjoyable version of Argentinarsquos flagship grape Loads of blue fruit and raspberries with spices galore and a little compost Rich flavours lead to a lengthy spicy finish Yes please Bring to a barbecue if you can $21 CSPC +630541

Zuccardi 2012 Zeta Mendoza Argentina

A malbec-cabernet sauvignon blend that is also a blend of two different Mendoza appellations La Consulta and Gualtallary Deep and abundant fruit aromas with liquorice root and a touch of blueberry preserves Excellent balance of flavours on the palate too with the right structure and tannin for aging if desired Enjoy with a prime rib or even meaty pasta dishes or game $50-52 CSPC +740270

Zuccardi 2012 ldquoEmmardquo Bonarda Mendoza Argentina

In my humble opinion one of the finest bonardas coming out of Argentina Notes of coffee bean and espresso complement cherry and blackberry fruits with healthy balanced tannins to stand up to the tart fruits Delicious for sure enjoy at your next barbecue $40 CSPC +758407

Luigi Bosca 2011 Cabernet-Malbec Mendoza Argentina

A wonderfully earthy and savoury blend with plenty of tobacco spice leather and yes lots of fruit too The earthy flavours work well with the big dark chocolate flavours and weighty tannins Drink now or through 2020 or so - with a steak naturally $22-24 CSPC +766010

Trivento 2013 Golden Reserve Malbec Lujan de Cuyo Argentina While there is a trend to see a lot of premium malbecs move away from oak presence this one is a bold smooth and delicious example that is seeing about a year of oak All those berry fruits plums and herb notes malbec is known for along with the smoothness that only oak brings Kick back relax maybe cook up some steaks - enjoy About $24 CSPC +711402

Trivento 2014 Malbec Reserve Mendoza Argentina Nearly unbeatable for good malbec at a great price itrsquos rich and chocolatey on the nose with big fruits and oak tones too Mild garrigue notes or dried herb flavours with plenty of fruit and tannins - still showing a fine sense of balance Enjoy with beef $14 CSPC +730714

Luigi Bosca 2011 De Sangre Mendoza Argentina A blend of cabernet sauvignon merlot and syrah that manages to pull out the best of each varietal Earthy and slightly smoky with good fruits and plenty of versatility Tannins are well-placed against the fruits with a long smooth finish Irsquove been a fan of this wine year after year Good to keep a couple on hand in the cellar About $29 CSPC +745106

Salentein 2012 Numina Gran Corte Uco Valley Argentina A malbec-dominated Bordeaux blend this stunner is all about ripe fruits cedar pepper cherries and plum with a little tealeaf and the right amount of tannins Very very well balanced and like any great wine think about some food to go with it Beef tenderloin slow cooked meats or maybe at your next asadohellip About $40 CSPC +764706

Colonia Las Liebres 2013 Bonarda Mendoza Argentina Bear with me here - a fine bonarda with plenty of earthy smoky aromas leading to rubber charred cherries and cocoa Some pretty prominent tannins to be found as well but wow does it all come together A wine that just begs for duck with cranberries or maybe some kebabshellip$20 CSPC +773381

42

Open That Bottleby LINDA GARSON photography by INGRID KUENZEL

ldquoIf you work in a place and yoursquore miserable I donrsquot know if there is a dollar amount that can be attached to that The work that yoursquore doing has to be rewarding and challengingrdquo says Karen KhoGrowing up in Niagara Falls in a Philippino SpanishChinese family Kho was surrounded by food and drinks with an open door policy that has had a huge influence on the person she is today - an

entertainer who likes to make people feel welcome ldquoMy parents wanted me to be a lawyer there was definitely an encouragement to use my voice for goodrdquo she explains ldquoAnd I still think I help people but in a different way a very social wayrdquo

Graduating Western University with a political science degree in 2000 Kho spent a year travelling and living in Australia before taking a leap of faith and moving to Calgary Here she studied wine with the International Sommeliers Guild and WSET but says her real education was a job she adored working in the wine trade at BIN 905 in tandem with running wine programs for CRMR restaurants It was only when the opportunity came to create the wine program at Vin Room six years later that Kho leapt at the challenge of a new idea for the city and spent four happy years there

Eventually she and her partner decided to stretch their wings and went to Vancouver where Kho embarked on a six-month culinary course at the Pacific Institute of Culinary Arts ticking off another box on her bucket list ldquoI wanted a greater understanding of technique in the kitchen and I wanted an understanding of what service on a very basic level would look like if I ever owned my own place and ever had to be the person who filled inrdquo she says ldquoI feel if I was ever in a place that needed someone to chop onions Irsquom your womanrdquo she laughs

A year later the pair came back with the idea of eventually opening their own business in Calgary ldquoThe support we get from this community is heartfelt and this is a city of opportunity People with the right concept are seeing a lot of great success itrsquos still our game planrdquo she says Meanwhile Kho applied only to Teatro where she is now Group Service Director

ldquoI wanted to work at a place that had a challenging wine program and had a level of service with high expectations and where professional service teams

applyrdquo she says ldquoItrsquos pretty romantic to work for a company that has been built on a foundation of service Successful businesses in the restaurant industry get the grand picture which is the moments that yoursquore creating for people and I like to be a part of thatrdquo she adds

So what bottle is Kho saving for a special occasion

Paying homage to her time at BIN 905 Kho explains ldquoI have a bottle of 1996 Chateau Mouton Rothschild which was given to me with some very kind words on my last day at BIN Irsquove always just appreciated my time there it was where I learned the vernacular of wine and itrsquos my first job where I really saw the benefits of serving people with intentionrdquo She continues ldquoI always see it thankfully as the stepping-stone to a broader wine profession and eventually to the position that I have now It was given to me by very close friends that Irsquom still friends with to this dayrdquo

And when is she planning to open the wine

ldquoWhen (partner) Dave and I open our own restaurantrdquo Kho says This isnrsquot something that something that will happen tomorrow but fortunately the wine will last until theyrsquore ready

Charcoal-grilled prime cutsHand-muddled caipirinhas50+ salad bar optionsThree distinct private rooms

pampasteakhousecomcalgary

521 10 Avenue SWCalgary AB

(587) 354-3441

See this weekrsquos promotion

eatpampayyc

1316-9th Avenue SE bull (403) 514-0577 bull knifewearYYC bull knifewearcom

Culinaire April 2016indd 2 2016-03-04 501 PM

Full circlePizza amp Oyster Bar

933 17 Ave SW bull fullcirclepizzaca

buck-a-shuck oysters

$1 oysters every night

9 pm - close Sunday-thursday 11 pm - close friday amp saturday

40

Salentein 2012 Reserve Chardonnay Uco Valley Argentina

Very very enjoyable chardonnay blowing me away with complexity varietal character and fine balance between oak lees and fruit Toffee baked apple tangerine and a little almond on the nose lead into silkily textured wine in the mouth Top shelf chardonnay that might be great with lobster tails mussels or poultry Around $20 CSPC +779479

Rutini 2013 Cabernet Malbec Mendoza Argentina

An exceptionally well put together blend - if you want rich berry fruits lots of body but maybe not tons of varietal characters from the individual components Lifted and bright fruits make for a very enjoyable glass Simply perfect for your next barbecue a roast or just chilling out with friends and family $26-30 CSPC +776822

Vinecol 2014 Organic Malbec Mendoza Argentina Fair Trade organic and vegan along with a good price is it still good Piles of fresh fruits (think smashed raspberries) with plenty of spice and soft herb-leaf aromas There are plenty of malbec flavours on the palate too Good for any day of the week with just a little tension between fruit tannin and acid it might be best with pub style burgers pulled pork or sausages About $16 CSPC +755296

Argentina is so much more than malbec While such a noble grape has found its best home in the high altitude vineyards of Argentina there is a lot going on with other grapes as well

Making The Case For Argentina

by TOM FIRTH

This massive country nestled up against the Andes mountains has a range of growing conditions suited to a number of grapes From Salta in the north to Patagonia in the south plenty of interesting wines are available here - many reasonably priced and of excellent quality So yes there are some

malbecs on these pages but please do try some of the other grapes and blends coming from Argentina too

Be sure to crack open a bottle of malbec on ldquoWorld Malbec Dayrdquo April 17 - who knows it might be nice enough to barbecue too

Photograph courtesy Tom Firth

41

Manos Negras 2011 Stone Soil Select Mendoza Argentina Quite new to the market this is a pretty enjoyable version of Argentinarsquos flagship grape Loads of blue fruit and raspberries with spices galore and a little compost Rich flavours lead to a lengthy spicy finish Yes please Bring to a barbecue if you can $21 CSPC +630541

Zuccardi 2012 Zeta Mendoza Argentina

A malbec-cabernet sauvignon blend that is also a blend of two different Mendoza appellations La Consulta and Gualtallary Deep and abundant fruit aromas with liquorice root and a touch of blueberry preserves Excellent balance of flavours on the palate too with the right structure and tannin for aging if desired Enjoy with a prime rib or even meaty pasta dishes or game $50-52 CSPC +740270

Zuccardi 2012 ldquoEmmardquo Bonarda Mendoza Argentina

In my humble opinion one of the finest bonardas coming out of Argentina Notes of coffee bean and espresso complement cherry and blackberry fruits with healthy balanced tannins to stand up to the tart fruits Delicious for sure enjoy at your next barbecue $40 CSPC +758407

Luigi Bosca 2011 Cabernet-Malbec Mendoza Argentina

A wonderfully earthy and savoury blend with plenty of tobacco spice leather and yes lots of fruit too The earthy flavours work well with the big dark chocolate flavours and weighty tannins Drink now or through 2020 or so - with a steak naturally $22-24 CSPC +766010

Trivento 2013 Golden Reserve Malbec Lujan de Cuyo Argentina While there is a trend to see a lot of premium malbecs move away from oak presence this one is a bold smooth and delicious example that is seeing about a year of oak All those berry fruits plums and herb notes malbec is known for along with the smoothness that only oak brings Kick back relax maybe cook up some steaks - enjoy About $24 CSPC +711402

Trivento 2014 Malbec Reserve Mendoza Argentina Nearly unbeatable for good malbec at a great price itrsquos rich and chocolatey on the nose with big fruits and oak tones too Mild garrigue notes or dried herb flavours with plenty of fruit and tannins - still showing a fine sense of balance Enjoy with beef $14 CSPC +730714

Luigi Bosca 2011 De Sangre Mendoza Argentina A blend of cabernet sauvignon merlot and syrah that manages to pull out the best of each varietal Earthy and slightly smoky with good fruits and plenty of versatility Tannins are well-placed against the fruits with a long smooth finish Irsquove been a fan of this wine year after year Good to keep a couple on hand in the cellar About $29 CSPC +745106

Salentein 2012 Numina Gran Corte Uco Valley Argentina A malbec-dominated Bordeaux blend this stunner is all about ripe fruits cedar pepper cherries and plum with a little tealeaf and the right amount of tannins Very very well balanced and like any great wine think about some food to go with it Beef tenderloin slow cooked meats or maybe at your next asadohellip About $40 CSPC +764706

Colonia Las Liebres 2013 Bonarda Mendoza Argentina Bear with me here - a fine bonarda with plenty of earthy smoky aromas leading to rubber charred cherries and cocoa Some pretty prominent tannins to be found as well but wow does it all come together A wine that just begs for duck with cranberries or maybe some kebabshellip$20 CSPC +773381

42

Open That Bottleby LINDA GARSON photography by INGRID KUENZEL

ldquoIf you work in a place and yoursquore miserable I donrsquot know if there is a dollar amount that can be attached to that The work that yoursquore doing has to be rewarding and challengingrdquo says Karen KhoGrowing up in Niagara Falls in a Philippino SpanishChinese family Kho was surrounded by food and drinks with an open door policy that has had a huge influence on the person she is today - an

entertainer who likes to make people feel welcome ldquoMy parents wanted me to be a lawyer there was definitely an encouragement to use my voice for goodrdquo she explains ldquoAnd I still think I help people but in a different way a very social wayrdquo

Graduating Western University with a political science degree in 2000 Kho spent a year travelling and living in Australia before taking a leap of faith and moving to Calgary Here she studied wine with the International Sommeliers Guild and WSET but says her real education was a job she adored working in the wine trade at BIN 905 in tandem with running wine programs for CRMR restaurants It was only when the opportunity came to create the wine program at Vin Room six years later that Kho leapt at the challenge of a new idea for the city and spent four happy years there

Eventually she and her partner decided to stretch their wings and went to Vancouver where Kho embarked on a six-month culinary course at the Pacific Institute of Culinary Arts ticking off another box on her bucket list ldquoI wanted a greater understanding of technique in the kitchen and I wanted an understanding of what service on a very basic level would look like if I ever owned my own place and ever had to be the person who filled inrdquo she says ldquoI feel if I was ever in a place that needed someone to chop onions Irsquom your womanrdquo she laughs

A year later the pair came back with the idea of eventually opening their own business in Calgary ldquoThe support we get from this community is heartfelt and this is a city of opportunity People with the right concept are seeing a lot of great success itrsquos still our game planrdquo she says Meanwhile Kho applied only to Teatro where she is now Group Service Director

ldquoI wanted to work at a place that had a challenging wine program and had a level of service with high expectations and where professional service teams

applyrdquo she says ldquoItrsquos pretty romantic to work for a company that has been built on a foundation of service Successful businesses in the restaurant industry get the grand picture which is the moments that yoursquore creating for people and I like to be a part of thatrdquo she adds

So what bottle is Kho saving for a special occasion

Paying homage to her time at BIN 905 Kho explains ldquoI have a bottle of 1996 Chateau Mouton Rothschild which was given to me with some very kind words on my last day at BIN Irsquove always just appreciated my time there it was where I learned the vernacular of wine and itrsquos my first job where I really saw the benefits of serving people with intentionrdquo She continues ldquoI always see it thankfully as the stepping-stone to a broader wine profession and eventually to the position that I have now It was given to me by very close friends that Irsquom still friends with to this dayrdquo

And when is she planning to open the wine

ldquoWhen (partner) Dave and I open our own restaurantrdquo Kho says This isnrsquot something that something that will happen tomorrow but fortunately the wine will last until theyrsquore ready

Charcoal-grilled prime cutsHand-muddled caipirinhas50+ salad bar optionsThree distinct private rooms

pampasteakhousecomcalgary

521 10 Avenue SWCalgary AB

(587) 354-3441

See this weekrsquos promotion

eatpampayyc

1316-9th Avenue SE bull (403) 514-0577 bull knifewearYYC bull knifewearcom

Culinaire April 2016indd 2 2016-03-04 501 PM

40

Salentein 2012 Reserve Chardonnay Uco Valley Argentina

Very very enjoyable chardonnay blowing me away with complexity varietal character and fine balance between oak lees and fruit Toffee baked apple tangerine and a little almond on the nose lead into silkily textured wine in the mouth Top shelf chardonnay that might be great with lobster tails mussels or poultry Around $20 CSPC +779479

Rutini 2013 Cabernet Malbec Mendoza Argentina

An exceptionally well put together blend - if you want rich berry fruits lots of body but maybe not tons of varietal characters from the individual components Lifted and bright fruits make for a very enjoyable glass Simply perfect for your next barbecue a roast or just chilling out with friends and family $26-30 CSPC +776822

Vinecol 2014 Organic Malbec Mendoza Argentina Fair Trade organic and vegan along with a good price is it still good Piles of fresh fruits (think smashed raspberries) with plenty of spice and soft herb-leaf aromas There are plenty of malbec flavours on the palate too Good for any day of the week with just a little tension between fruit tannin and acid it might be best with pub style burgers pulled pork or sausages About $16 CSPC +755296

Argentina is so much more than malbec While such a noble grape has found its best home in the high altitude vineyards of Argentina there is a lot going on with other grapes as well

Making The Case For Argentina

by TOM FIRTH

This massive country nestled up against the Andes mountains has a range of growing conditions suited to a number of grapes From Salta in the north to Patagonia in the south plenty of interesting wines are available here - many reasonably priced and of excellent quality So yes there are some

malbecs on these pages but please do try some of the other grapes and blends coming from Argentina too

Be sure to crack open a bottle of malbec on ldquoWorld Malbec Dayrdquo April 17 - who knows it might be nice enough to barbecue too

Photograph courtesy Tom Firth

41

Manos Negras 2011 Stone Soil Select Mendoza Argentina Quite new to the market this is a pretty enjoyable version of Argentinarsquos flagship grape Loads of blue fruit and raspberries with spices galore and a little compost Rich flavours lead to a lengthy spicy finish Yes please Bring to a barbecue if you can $21 CSPC +630541

Zuccardi 2012 Zeta Mendoza Argentina

A malbec-cabernet sauvignon blend that is also a blend of two different Mendoza appellations La Consulta and Gualtallary Deep and abundant fruit aromas with liquorice root and a touch of blueberry preserves Excellent balance of flavours on the palate too with the right structure and tannin for aging if desired Enjoy with a prime rib or even meaty pasta dishes or game $50-52 CSPC +740270

Zuccardi 2012 ldquoEmmardquo Bonarda Mendoza Argentina

In my humble opinion one of the finest bonardas coming out of Argentina Notes of coffee bean and espresso complement cherry and blackberry fruits with healthy balanced tannins to stand up to the tart fruits Delicious for sure enjoy at your next barbecue $40 CSPC +758407

Luigi Bosca 2011 Cabernet-Malbec Mendoza Argentina

A wonderfully earthy and savoury blend with plenty of tobacco spice leather and yes lots of fruit too The earthy flavours work well with the big dark chocolate flavours and weighty tannins Drink now or through 2020 or so - with a steak naturally $22-24 CSPC +766010

Trivento 2013 Golden Reserve Malbec Lujan de Cuyo Argentina While there is a trend to see a lot of premium malbecs move away from oak presence this one is a bold smooth and delicious example that is seeing about a year of oak All those berry fruits plums and herb notes malbec is known for along with the smoothness that only oak brings Kick back relax maybe cook up some steaks - enjoy About $24 CSPC +711402

Trivento 2014 Malbec Reserve Mendoza Argentina Nearly unbeatable for good malbec at a great price itrsquos rich and chocolatey on the nose with big fruits and oak tones too Mild garrigue notes or dried herb flavours with plenty of fruit and tannins - still showing a fine sense of balance Enjoy with beef $14 CSPC +730714

Luigi Bosca 2011 De Sangre Mendoza Argentina A blend of cabernet sauvignon merlot and syrah that manages to pull out the best of each varietal Earthy and slightly smoky with good fruits and plenty of versatility Tannins are well-placed against the fruits with a long smooth finish Irsquove been a fan of this wine year after year Good to keep a couple on hand in the cellar About $29 CSPC +745106

Salentein 2012 Numina Gran Corte Uco Valley Argentina A malbec-dominated Bordeaux blend this stunner is all about ripe fruits cedar pepper cherries and plum with a little tealeaf and the right amount of tannins Very very well balanced and like any great wine think about some food to go with it Beef tenderloin slow cooked meats or maybe at your next asadohellip About $40 CSPC +764706

Colonia Las Liebres 2013 Bonarda Mendoza Argentina Bear with me here - a fine bonarda with plenty of earthy smoky aromas leading to rubber charred cherries and cocoa Some pretty prominent tannins to be found as well but wow does it all come together A wine that just begs for duck with cranberries or maybe some kebabshellip$20 CSPC +773381

42

Open That Bottleby LINDA GARSON photography by INGRID KUENZEL

ldquoIf you work in a place and yoursquore miserable I donrsquot know if there is a dollar amount that can be attached to that The work that yoursquore doing has to be rewarding and challengingrdquo says Karen KhoGrowing up in Niagara Falls in a Philippino SpanishChinese family Kho was surrounded by food and drinks with an open door policy that has had a huge influence on the person she is today - an

entertainer who likes to make people feel welcome ldquoMy parents wanted me to be a lawyer there was definitely an encouragement to use my voice for goodrdquo she explains ldquoAnd I still think I help people but in a different way a very social wayrdquo

Graduating Western University with a political science degree in 2000 Kho spent a year travelling and living in Australia before taking a leap of faith and moving to Calgary Here she studied wine with the International Sommeliers Guild and WSET but says her real education was a job she adored working in the wine trade at BIN 905 in tandem with running wine programs for CRMR restaurants It was only when the opportunity came to create the wine program at Vin Room six years later that Kho leapt at the challenge of a new idea for the city and spent four happy years there

Eventually she and her partner decided to stretch their wings and went to Vancouver where Kho embarked on a six-month culinary course at the Pacific Institute of Culinary Arts ticking off another box on her bucket list ldquoI wanted a greater understanding of technique in the kitchen and I wanted an understanding of what service on a very basic level would look like if I ever owned my own place and ever had to be the person who filled inrdquo she says ldquoI feel if I was ever in a place that needed someone to chop onions Irsquom your womanrdquo she laughs

A year later the pair came back with the idea of eventually opening their own business in Calgary ldquoThe support we get from this community is heartfelt and this is a city of opportunity People with the right concept are seeing a lot of great success itrsquos still our game planrdquo she says Meanwhile Kho applied only to Teatro where she is now Group Service Director

ldquoI wanted to work at a place that had a challenging wine program and had a level of service with high expectations and where professional service teams

applyrdquo she says ldquoItrsquos pretty romantic to work for a company that has been built on a foundation of service Successful businesses in the restaurant industry get the grand picture which is the moments that yoursquore creating for people and I like to be a part of thatrdquo she adds

So what bottle is Kho saving for a special occasion

Paying homage to her time at BIN 905 Kho explains ldquoI have a bottle of 1996 Chateau Mouton Rothschild which was given to me with some very kind words on my last day at BIN Irsquove always just appreciated my time there it was where I learned the vernacular of wine and itrsquos my first job where I really saw the benefits of serving people with intentionrdquo She continues ldquoI always see it thankfully as the stepping-stone to a broader wine profession and eventually to the position that I have now It was given to me by very close friends that Irsquom still friends with to this dayrdquo

And when is she planning to open the wine

ldquoWhen (partner) Dave and I open our own restaurantrdquo Kho says This isnrsquot something that something that will happen tomorrow but fortunately the wine will last until theyrsquore ready

Charcoal-grilled prime cutsHand-muddled caipirinhas50+ salad bar optionsThree distinct private rooms

pampasteakhousecomcalgary

521 10 Avenue SWCalgary AB

(587) 354-3441

See this weekrsquos promotion

eatpampayyc

1316-9th Avenue SE bull (403) 514-0577 bull knifewearYYC bull knifewearcom

Culinaire April 2016indd 2 2016-03-04 501 PM

41

Manos Negras 2011 Stone Soil Select Mendoza Argentina Quite new to the market this is a pretty enjoyable version of Argentinarsquos flagship grape Loads of blue fruit and raspberries with spices galore and a little compost Rich flavours lead to a lengthy spicy finish Yes please Bring to a barbecue if you can $21 CSPC +630541

Zuccardi 2012 Zeta Mendoza Argentina

A malbec-cabernet sauvignon blend that is also a blend of two different Mendoza appellations La Consulta and Gualtallary Deep and abundant fruit aromas with liquorice root and a touch of blueberry preserves Excellent balance of flavours on the palate too with the right structure and tannin for aging if desired Enjoy with a prime rib or even meaty pasta dishes or game $50-52 CSPC +740270

Zuccardi 2012 ldquoEmmardquo Bonarda Mendoza Argentina

In my humble opinion one of the finest bonardas coming out of Argentina Notes of coffee bean and espresso complement cherry and blackberry fruits with healthy balanced tannins to stand up to the tart fruits Delicious for sure enjoy at your next barbecue $40 CSPC +758407

Luigi Bosca 2011 Cabernet-Malbec Mendoza Argentina

A wonderfully earthy and savoury blend with plenty of tobacco spice leather and yes lots of fruit too The earthy flavours work well with the big dark chocolate flavours and weighty tannins Drink now or through 2020 or so - with a steak naturally $22-24 CSPC +766010

Trivento 2013 Golden Reserve Malbec Lujan de Cuyo Argentina While there is a trend to see a lot of premium malbecs move away from oak presence this one is a bold smooth and delicious example that is seeing about a year of oak All those berry fruits plums and herb notes malbec is known for along with the smoothness that only oak brings Kick back relax maybe cook up some steaks - enjoy About $24 CSPC +711402

Trivento 2014 Malbec Reserve Mendoza Argentina Nearly unbeatable for good malbec at a great price itrsquos rich and chocolatey on the nose with big fruits and oak tones too Mild garrigue notes or dried herb flavours with plenty of fruit and tannins - still showing a fine sense of balance Enjoy with beef $14 CSPC +730714

Luigi Bosca 2011 De Sangre Mendoza Argentina A blend of cabernet sauvignon merlot and syrah that manages to pull out the best of each varietal Earthy and slightly smoky with good fruits and plenty of versatility Tannins are well-placed against the fruits with a long smooth finish Irsquove been a fan of this wine year after year Good to keep a couple on hand in the cellar About $29 CSPC +745106

Salentein 2012 Numina Gran Corte Uco Valley Argentina A malbec-dominated Bordeaux blend this stunner is all about ripe fruits cedar pepper cherries and plum with a little tealeaf and the right amount of tannins Very very well balanced and like any great wine think about some food to go with it Beef tenderloin slow cooked meats or maybe at your next asadohellip About $40 CSPC +764706

Colonia Las Liebres 2013 Bonarda Mendoza Argentina Bear with me here - a fine bonarda with plenty of earthy smoky aromas leading to rubber charred cherries and cocoa Some pretty prominent tannins to be found as well but wow does it all come together A wine that just begs for duck with cranberries or maybe some kebabshellip$20 CSPC +773381

42

Open That Bottleby LINDA GARSON photography by INGRID KUENZEL

ldquoIf you work in a place and yoursquore miserable I donrsquot know if there is a dollar amount that can be attached to that The work that yoursquore doing has to be rewarding and challengingrdquo says Karen KhoGrowing up in Niagara Falls in a Philippino SpanishChinese family Kho was surrounded by food and drinks with an open door policy that has had a huge influence on the person she is today - an

entertainer who likes to make people feel welcome ldquoMy parents wanted me to be a lawyer there was definitely an encouragement to use my voice for goodrdquo she explains ldquoAnd I still think I help people but in a different way a very social wayrdquo

Graduating Western University with a political science degree in 2000 Kho spent a year travelling and living in Australia before taking a leap of faith and moving to Calgary Here she studied wine with the International Sommeliers Guild and WSET but says her real education was a job she adored working in the wine trade at BIN 905 in tandem with running wine programs for CRMR restaurants It was only when the opportunity came to create the wine program at Vin Room six years later that Kho leapt at the challenge of a new idea for the city and spent four happy years there

Eventually she and her partner decided to stretch their wings and went to Vancouver where Kho embarked on a six-month culinary course at the Pacific Institute of Culinary Arts ticking off another box on her bucket list ldquoI wanted a greater understanding of technique in the kitchen and I wanted an understanding of what service on a very basic level would look like if I ever owned my own place and ever had to be the person who filled inrdquo she says ldquoI feel if I was ever in a place that needed someone to chop onions Irsquom your womanrdquo she laughs

A year later the pair came back with the idea of eventually opening their own business in Calgary ldquoThe support we get from this community is heartfelt and this is a city of opportunity People with the right concept are seeing a lot of great success itrsquos still our game planrdquo she says Meanwhile Kho applied only to Teatro where she is now Group Service Director

ldquoI wanted to work at a place that had a challenging wine program and had a level of service with high expectations and where professional service teams

applyrdquo she says ldquoItrsquos pretty romantic to work for a company that has been built on a foundation of service Successful businesses in the restaurant industry get the grand picture which is the moments that yoursquore creating for people and I like to be a part of thatrdquo she adds

So what bottle is Kho saving for a special occasion

Paying homage to her time at BIN 905 Kho explains ldquoI have a bottle of 1996 Chateau Mouton Rothschild which was given to me with some very kind words on my last day at BIN Irsquove always just appreciated my time there it was where I learned the vernacular of wine and itrsquos my first job where I really saw the benefits of serving people with intentionrdquo She continues ldquoI always see it thankfully as the stepping-stone to a broader wine profession and eventually to the position that I have now It was given to me by very close friends that Irsquom still friends with to this dayrdquo

And when is she planning to open the wine

ldquoWhen (partner) Dave and I open our own restaurantrdquo Kho says This isnrsquot something that something that will happen tomorrow but fortunately the wine will last until theyrsquore ready

Charcoal-grilled prime cutsHand-muddled caipirinhas50+ salad bar optionsThree distinct private rooms

pampasteakhousecomcalgary

521 10 Avenue SWCalgary AB

(587) 354-3441

See this weekrsquos promotion

eatpampayyc

1316-9th Avenue SE bull (403) 514-0577 bull knifewearYYC bull knifewearcom

Culinaire April 2016indd 2 2016-03-04 501 PM

42

Open That Bottleby LINDA GARSON photography by INGRID KUENZEL

ldquoIf you work in a place and yoursquore miserable I donrsquot know if there is a dollar amount that can be attached to that The work that yoursquore doing has to be rewarding and challengingrdquo says Karen KhoGrowing up in Niagara Falls in a Philippino SpanishChinese family Kho was surrounded by food and drinks with an open door policy that has had a huge influence on the person she is today - an

entertainer who likes to make people feel welcome ldquoMy parents wanted me to be a lawyer there was definitely an encouragement to use my voice for goodrdquo she explains ldquoAnd I still think I help people but in a different way a very social wayrdquo

Graduating Western University with a political science degree in 2000 Kho spent a year travelling and living in Australia before taking a leap of faith and moving to Calgary Here she studied wine with the International Sommeliers Guild and WSET but says her real education was a job she adored working in the wine trade at BIN 905 in tandem with running wine programs for CRMR restaurants It was only when the opportunity came to create the wine program at Vin Room six years later that Kho leapt at the challenge of a new idea for the city and spent four happy years there

Eventually she and her partner decided to stretch their wings and went to Vancouver where Kho embarked on a six-month culinary course at the Pacific Institute of Culinary Arts ticking off another box on her bucket list ldquoI wanted a greater understanding of technique in the kitchen and I wanted an understanding of what service on a very basic level would look like if I ever owned my own place and ever had to be the person who filled inrdquo she says ldquoI feel if I was ever in a place that needed someone to chop onions Irsquom your womanrdquo she laughs

A year later the pair came back with the idea of eventually opening their own business in Calgary ldquoThe support we get from this community is heartfelt and this is a city of opportunity People with the right concept are seeing a lot of great success itrsquos still our game planrdquo she says Meanwhile Kho applied only to Teatro where she is now Group Service Director

ldquoI wanted to work at a place that had a challenging wine program and had a level of service with high expectations and where professional service teams

applyrdquo she says ldquoItrsquos pretty romantic to work for a company that has been built on a foundation of service Successful businesses in the restaurant industry get the grand picture which is the moments that yoursquore creating for people and I like to be a part of thatrdquo she adds

So what bottle is Kho saving for a special occasion

Paying homage to her time at BIN 905 Kho explains ldquoI have a bottle of 1996 Chateau Mouton Rothschild which was given to me with some very kind words on my last day at BIN Irsquove always just appreciated my time there it was where I learned the vernacular of wine and itrsquos my first job where I really saw the benefits of serving people with intentionrdquo She continues ldquoI always see it thankfully as the stepping-stone to a broader wine profession and eventually to the position that I have now It was given to me by very close friends that Irsquom still friends with to this dayrdquo

And when is she planning to open the wine

ldquoWhen (partner) Dave and I open our own restaurantrdquo Kho says This isnrsquot something that something that will happen tomorrow but fortunately the wine will last until theyrsquore ready

Charcoal-grilled prime cutsHand-muddled caipirinhas50+ salad bar optionsThree distinct private rooms

pampasteakhousecomcalgary

521 10 Avenue SWCalgary AB

(587) 354-3441

See this weekrsquos promotion

eatpampayyc

1316-9th Avenue SE bull (403) 514-0577 bull knifewearYYC bull knifewearcom

Culinaire April 2016indd 2 2016-03-04 501 PM

Charcoal-grilled prime cutsHand-muddled caipirinhas50+ salad bar optionsThree distinct private rooms

pampasteakhousecomcalgary

521 10 Avenue SWCalgary AB

(587) 354-3441

See this weekrsquos promotion

eatpampayyc

1316-9th Avenue SE bull (403) 514-0577 bull knifewearYYC bull knifewearcom

Culinaire April 2016indd 2 2016-03-04 501 PM

1316-9th Avenue SE bull (403) 514-0577 bull knifewearYYC bull knifewearcom

Culinaire April 2016indd 2 2016-03-04 501 PM