Livin’ La Vida Ceviche China: The Next Hyper-Regional Cuisine Gourmet Frontier

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Early Spring 2010

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Early Spring 2010

The New Magazine for Executive Chefs CALIFORNIA & NEVADA

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The MenuFavorite Recipes

Favorite Recipes

Vol. 17, No. 2 April 1, 2010

Contributors

Editorial Advisory Board Fred Mensinga, Chairman and Founder

Pierre Albaladejo (Four Seasons Aviara, Carlsbad), Frederic Castan (St. Regis Monarch Resort, Dana Point), Azmin Ghahreman (Sapphire Laguna, Laguna Beach), Josef Lageder (Balboa Bay Club, Newport Beach), Vesa Leppala (Harrah’s Rincon Casino, San Diego), Bradley Ogden (Bradley Ogden, Las Vegas), Charlie Trotter (Restaurant Charlie, Las Vegas), Roy Yamaguchi (Roy’s)

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Carolyn Alburger Alicia Harvie

Sara Kraus (Photography)

Melissa Matarese Leena Trivedi-Grenier

Christina Mueller Welter

Founding Editor Linda Mensinga

Managing Editor Carleigh Connelly

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Publisher Christopher S. Neubauer

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Vice-President Deborah L. Neubauer

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PASS IT ON: KEEPING THE TRADITION OF HERITAGE BREEDS & HEIRLOOM

VARIETIES ALIVE

A.R.Valentien: Roasted Vande Rose Pork Loin with Anson Mills Polenta & Pork Confit Cake Craft: Apple Tart Tatin Fatted Calf for Cochon 555: Swiss Chard & Walnut Stuffed Pork Shoulder Gather Restaurant: Genovese-Style Pork Cheeks

Heirloom Bean Ragout, Root Vegetables “Butter”, Brussels Sprouts, Scallions & Grilled Bread Marché: 9 Spiced California Lamb Saddle, Nantes Carrot, Golden Raisins, Almonds, Fregola

& Olive Jus

CHINA: THE NEXT GOURMET FRONTIER

Duck de Chine at 1949 Hidden City: Peking Duck Taco Jean Georges at Three on the Bund: Cod Steamed with Shimeji Mushrooms,

Miso-Yuzu Broth Crab Fritters, Black Pepper Sauce & Asian Pear

Mr & Mrs Bund: Lemon & Lemon Tart

LIVIN’ LA VIDA CEVICHE

Bar Crudo: Rhode Island Fluke Ceviche El Caserio: Ceviche de Camarones La Costanera: Blowtorch Tuna Cebiche (recipe online) La Mar: Halibut Cebiche Classico Mo-Chica: Sea Bass Ceviche SUSHISAMBA: Shrimp Seviche with Plantain Chips

HYPER-REGIONAL: A WHOLE NEW ETHNIC

Chichen Itza: Yucatan Papadzules with Pumpkin Seed Sauce (recipe online) La Ciccia: Sardinian Baby Octopus Stew La Note: La Ratatouille Borghetti Perbacco: Agnoloti Dal Plin RH at Andaz West Hollywood: Périgourdine Poached Egg with Foie Gras & Black Truffle

(recipe online)

SPICING IT UP WITH EXOTIC SEASONINGS

BALEENsandiego: Crab Cake with Mango-Poblano Salad & Harissa Aioli (recipe online) Checkers Downtown: Harissa Rubbed Halibut Mar’sel at Terranea Resort: Herb Crusted Colorado Lamb Loin with Shell Bean Cassoulet Medjool: Za’atar Sweet Potatoes with Goat Cheese & Honey Sapphire Laguna: Baked Indian Salmon with Tomato-Cucumber Couscous Salad & Madras

Yogurt (recipe online)

CONTEMPORARY INDIAN CUISINE: BEYOND NAAN & CURRY

Ajanta: Tandoori Portobello Mushrooms with Yogurt-Cashew-Tamarind Sauce/Badam Jaam Dosa: Manglorean Prawn Masala (recipe online) Neela’s: Shrimp & Potato Bundles Origin India: Tandoori Chicken Sakoon: Spaghetti Squash Salad

Favorite Recipes Australian Lamb: Australian Lamb Chops with Egyptian Dukkah Crust, served with Spiced

Yogurt Chichen Itza: Panuchos Craft: Berkshire Rack of Bork with Kumquats & Apple Butter Fiscalini Farmstead Cheese: Three Cheese “Grown Up” Macaroni Gather: Local Halibut Crudo with California Olive Tapenade & Avocado Salsa La Ciccia: Spaghetti with Artichokes & Bottarga TMSK: Tofu Terrines Two Ways Mr & Mrs Bund: Beef Short Rib with Bordelaise Cepe

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Pass it On: Keeping the Tradition of Heritage Breeds & Heirloom Varieties Alive All ingredients are not created equal, nor should they be cooked the same. Different breeds of the same animal & varieties of produce deliver distinctly different flavors and textures. We explore restaurants that feature single breed or heritage animals and heirloom crops. Alicia Harvie

China: The Next Gourmet Frontier Boasting the world’s largest population and a cuisine comprised of seven distinct regional cooking styles, the development of China’s wine country is just one more reason today’s top chefs and wine makers are looking to the East to push their business boundaries. Carleigh Connelly

Livin’ La Vida Ceviche One of South America’s hottest culinary exports, ceviche is a palate pleasure that fits in with virtually any style of cuisine. Creative preparations and fresh ingredients are an irresistible combination, whether at a restaurant serving traditional ceviches or an establishment that redefines the dish in a modern context. Christina Mueller Welter

Hyper-Regional: A Whole New Ethnic More and more, customers are seeking authentic culinary experiences and hyper-regional cuisine provides just that by focusing on a region within a country, such as Oaxacan, Umbrian, Sicilian, Basque and Provencal flavors. Diners get a true taste of areas’ specialized dishes that differentiate their cooking from neighboring lands. Carolyn Alburger

Spicing it up with Exotic Seasonings Every cuisine has its arsenal of essential spice blends that adds unique flavoring to each dish, differentiating one country’s fare from another. From Indian Chaat Masala to Middle Eastern Za’atar, foreign seasonings are a great way to spice up American and international menus alike. Melissa Matarese

Contemporary Indian Cuisine: Beyond Naan & Curry Traditional Indian eateries with a casual, dated vibe have been overshadowed by today’s refined, contemporary establishments. By embracing the rich and sophisticated flavor profiles of this ancient cuisine, many thriving restaurants are taking advantage of the myriad of spices in Indian cooking. Leena Trivedi-Grenier

ON THE COVER

Local Halibut Crudo with California Tapenade & Avocado Salsa Gather Restaurant, Berkeley, CA (visit culinarytrends.net for recipe)

PHOTOGRAPH BY CARMEN TROESSER

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“North & South” filled Samosas from Dosa

in San Francisco

The MenuThe Menu Ajanta: Berkeley, CA — www.ajantaberkeley.com (pg. 36-7, 40) A.R. Valentien: La Jolla, CA — www.logdgetorreypines.com (pg. 8, 10) BALEENsandiego: Los Angeles, CA — www.paradisepoint.com (pg. 32) Bar Crudo: San Francisco, CA — www.barcrudo.com (pg. 21-22, 24) Checkers Downtown: Los Angeles, CA — www.hiltoncheckers.com (pg. 34) Chichen Itza: Los Angeles, CA — www.chichenitzarestaurant.com (pg. 27-28, 31) Cochon 555 — www.cochon555.com (pg. 6-7, 9-10) Craft: Los Angeles, CA — www.craftrestaurant.com (pg. 10, 41) Dosa: San Francisco, CA — www.dosasf.com (pg. 36-39) Duck de Chine at 1949 Hidden City: Beijing, China — www.elite-concepts.com (pg. 15-16) EAST Tours — www.east-tours.com (pg. 19) Eden Farms Berkshire Pork — www.betterpork.com (pg. 6) Fatted Calf: Napa, CA — www.fattedcalf.com (pg. 9) El Caserio: Los Angeles, CA — www.elcaseriola.com (pg. 22-24) Fiscalini Farmstead Cheese: Modesto, CA — www.fiscalinicheese.com (pg. 43) Gather Restaurant: Berkeley, CA — www.gatherrestaurant.com (pg. 6-7, 9-11, 42) Jean Georges: Shanghai, China — www.threeonthebund.com (pg. 15-18) La Ciccia: San Francisco, CA — www.laciccia.com (pg. 27, 43) La Costanera: Montara, CA — www.lacostaneraresataurant.com (pg. 20-21, 23)

La Mar Cevicheria Peruana: San Francisco, CA — www.lamarcebicheria.com (pg. 22) La Note: Berkeley, CA — www.lanoterestaurant.com (pg. 27, 29) Marché: Menlo Park, CA — www.restaurantmarche.com (pg. 6-8, 10, 12) Mar’sel at Terranea Resort: Rancho Palos Verdes, CA — www.terranea.com (pg. 34-35) Medjool: San Francisco, CA — www.medjoolsf.com (pg. 33-34) Mr & Mrs Bund: Shanghai, China — www.mmbund.com (pg. 15, 18, 42) Neela’s: Napa, CA — neelasnapa.com (pg. 37, 39) Origin India: Las Vegas, NV — www.originindiarestaurant.com (pg. 37-38) Perbacco: San Francisco, CA — www.perbaccosf.com (pg. 18) Rancho Gordo: Napa, CA — www.ranchogordo.com (pg. 7) RH at Andaz West Hollywood: West Hollywood, CA — www.westhollywoood.hyatt.com (pg. 26-27; 29-30) Sakoon: Mountain View, CA — www.sakoonrestaurant.com (pg. 37, 29-40) Sapphire Laguna: Laguna Beach, CA — www.sapphirellc.com (pg. 32, 35) SUSHISAMBA Strip: Las Vegas, NV — www.sushisama.com (pg. 21-23) TMSK: Shanghai, China — www.tmsk.com (pg. 41) Wildfire Steakhouse & Wine Bar: Toronto, Canada — www.wildfiresteakhouse.com (pg. 18) Wine Portfolio: New York, NY — www.wineportfolio.com (pg. 19)

Restaurants:

Recipes:

Featured purveyor from Gather Restaurant’s Sourcebook: Rancho Gordo

From farmer Steve Sando: The seeds of Ran­cho Gordo were literally planted in a grocery store here in Napa. I was shopping one August for toma­toes and despite being in one of the world’s most magnificent agricultural regions, all the tomatoes were from a hothouse in Holland! Worse, they were hard and pale pink instead of the ripe tomatoes I was craving. I started to grow my own tomatoes and this even­tually led to beans.

Heirloom beans are the foundation of Rancho Gordo. I remember the first time I ate a Rio Zape and was shocked at how much better it was than the average pinto bean. I did a little more research and soon realized that I hadn’t even scratched the surface. There are hundreds of heirloom beans waiting to be discovered. My think­ing is the best way to save these beans is by eating them and letting people see that even though the yields are lower and they aren’t as uniform as industrial red kid­neys, they are more than worth the bother.

GENOVESE-STYLE PORK CHEEKS

INGREDIENTS

METHOD Lay the cheeks out on a sheet pan and season liber­ally. Heat up a braising or sauce pan, add olive oil until just before smoking, add pork cheeks 6-9 at a time being super careful to not overcrowd the pan while achieving an even caramelizing. When the cheeks are golden on both sides, transfer them to a 400 hotel pan (a full size 4 inch pan) and repeat batches until done. Turn off the heat and drain the used oil.

Continue by adding just enough olive oil to the pan to SLOWLY caramelize the onion. Once the onion is caramelized add the carrot, garlic, bacon, bay, tied herbs and tomato paste. Sauté for 2 minutes and deglaze with wine. After the alcohol is

cooked out, add the vinegar and stock. Bring to a boil and simmer for 10 minutes.

Adjust seasoning, then pour over cheeks. Cover and place in 275°F oven for at least 3 hours. Cheeks should hold together but really want to fall apart.

Executive Chef Sean Baker Gather Restaurant — Berkeley, CA

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PASS IT ON!

10 lb pork cheeks, cleaned 3 qt red onion, medium diced 1/3 cup garlic, sliced 8 oz bacon, sliced 3 ea carrot, peeled 2 sprigs rosemary, tied

1/2 bunch thyme, tied with rosemary 4 ea bay leaf 3/4 cup tomato paste 1 cup red wine 3/4 cup red wine vinegar 5 qt chicken stock

PHOTO BY CARMEN TROESSER

PHOTO BY DAVID DADEKIAN

Keeping the tradition of heritage breeds and heirloom varieties alive Alicia Harvie

Bored by your beefsteak tomato? Take a look at California’s food scene. Today, it’s one of the hottest locales for chefs breaking the mold with heirloom produce and heritage meats.

While the definition of heirloom or heritage is debated, the consensus falls on varieties that have been bred, nurtured and passed down for several generations, if not centuries.

“You can feel the history of the food,” says Sean Baker, executive chef at Berkeley’s Gather, of the many heirloom varieties showcased on his menu. “In the 1950s, our whole culture changed with the introduction of fast food and pre-made meals. Our grandmothers probably knew more about food than most of us do now.”

Indeed, the 1950s saw the development of industrial agriculture, which slowly narrowed seed and animal varieties available on the farm. For example, all hogs were once raised outdoors, where they developed a thick layer of back fat to regulate their body temperatures. Once the ani­mal’s most valued trait, it acquired a stigma when the low-fat fad hit popular consciousness. Kelly Biensen, General Manager of Eden Farms explains, “In this world of super-lean hog breed­ing, it is very important that we maintain her-

Above: Chef Tony Maws from Craigie on Main in Boston, puts the final touches on his dishes for Cochon 555’s heritage breed pigs national competition.

itage breeds, which are more tender and juicier than factory farmed meat. It will become more important for chefs and consumers to realize the value of heritage breed meat, so that the farmers will be able to keep the genetics alive for chefs and other consumers in the future.” New breeds, bred for as little fat as possible, eroding the species’ genetic pool and sending tons of tradi­tional knowledge and flavors into oblivion, is ex­actly what Biensen and his team at Eden Farms is trying to protect against.

Thankfully, today’s resurgence of heirloom and heritage varieties aims to buck this trend, inspiring innovation in the kitchen along the way. California’s geography, filled with several microclimates and ecological niches, boasts a staggering number of heirlooms and heritage animals, making it a natural place for the trend to take off.

A flavorful venture Farmers and ranchers often prefer heir­

looms and heritage breeds for their resistance to local pests and hardiness in extreme weather. For the chef, the benefits come in the form of flavor. “Different animal breeds have different fat marbling, for example,” says Executive Chef Guillaume Bienaimé of Menlo Park’s Marché.

“When we get tired of doing the same old thing, her­itage breeds offer a great way to differentiate.”

Brady Lowe agrees. So much so that he launched Cochon 555, a series of events that raise national aware­ness about the need to preserve heritage breed pigs. “The pig is an animal that keeps on giv­ing. From head to tail it’s flavor after flavor. And different breeds mean even more flavor. When I realized breeds were going extinct, it was a calling right at that moment.”

Last year, Lowe held events in ten cities, each featuring five chefs, five heritage pigs and five winemakers in a creative, celebratory com­petition that created a buzz everywhere it went. For Lowe, that success is a reflection of a grow­ing consumer desire to know where their food comes from.

“It’s about place-based food. It’s about get­ting the right community and showcasing what’s special about a geographic region. Peo­ple want to know where our food comes from and chefs and farmers want to be rewarded for working hard. And the reward is flavor. Her­itage pigs equal flavor.”

Start at the source When Chef Bienaimé took the helm at

Marché nine months ago, he aimed to deepen

the restaurant’s already strong commitment to local sourcing. “In the Bay Area, we have access to all this produce and California-raised livestock. It seems natu­ral to source from here.”

Heritage, continued from Previous Page

A.R. Valentien’s Executive Chef Jeff Jackson sets the Artisan Table for a feast.

That “local” ethos leant it­self well to heritage meat pro­curement. “For the farmer, the breed you raise should really be based on locale. Our lamb is from Marin County, where the cooler coastal environment demands its own breed. So farmers did a cross that could thrive there.”

Going local is important for heirloom produce too. Bi­enaimé recently befriended local farmer, Fred Hempel, of Sunol’s Baia Nicchia farms, where he gains an intimate knowledge of the heirlooms he features on Marché’s menu. With nearly 30 tomato and 20 squash varieties offered at Baia Nicchia, Bienaimé has relished

in the food diversity. In the past, he’s offered an Heir­loom Tomato Dinner, and in January he created a Squash Tasting menu that incorporated Baia Nicchia’s dizzying array of heirlooms, like the Potimarron, Kikuza, Musquée De Provence, and Marina Di Chioggia.

“I get squash from him that I’ve never seen before. That’s the exciting stuff – catering to those textures and

tastes. For our first course, I was happy to use a raw ap­plication for the Butternut Rugosa. It was cooked only slightly in simple syrup and paired with mustard fla­vored Italian candied pears. An Italian recipe for an Ital­ian variety.”

In the field, Hempel and Bienaimé are creative powerhouses experimenting with gene preservation. “I’m creating my own tomato with Fred. By far, it’s the coolest thing I’ve been able to do. I may be the only chef in the country with his own tomato.” The to-be-named variety crosses the Amana Orange, a large, bright-orange tomato from Iowa’s highly religious Amana colonies, with a red variety from Italy’s Canavese region. The cross fits nicely with Bienaimé’s penchant for European and American regional cuisine.

“Both varieties have rich historical definitions,” he says. “Crossing them is an important way to preserve their genes, but creatively. I really believe we’re defining our own terroir, not just reproducing what Europeans do. We’re creating our own culinary traditions, starting with the seed.”

Separate but equal? Do heirlooms have to be treated differently? Anson

Mills, a wholesale supplier of heirloom grain and legume products, says yes: “Our products won’t work with standard recipes. Standard recipes won’t work with our products.”

SWISS CHARD & WALNUT­STUFFED PORK SHOULDER

Featured at Cochon 555 Heritage

Pork Event, Napa, CA

INGREDIENTS 3-4 lb piece of boneless pork shoulder 3 bunches cooking greens, such as Erbette, Lacinato or Swiss chard 3/4 cup walnuts 10 cloves garlic

METHOD The day before cooking the roast, make the pocket for the stuffing and season liberally with salt and pepper.

To cut the pocket, cut horizontally through the middle of the roast, following where the bone would have been. Leave one of the four edges completely intact.

The morning of, make the filling: Bring a large pot of water to a rolling boil and salt until almost seawater strength. While the water is coming up, toast the walnuts in a 300°F oven. When cool, chop the nuts coarsely. Blanch the greens in the water until a little softer than al dente, then strain out and re­frigerate. Don’t shock them in ice water; this just sucks out their flavor. Slice the garlic cloves very thinly, preferably with a mandoline.

PHOTO BY CARMEN TROESSER and oregano and chili flakes. Sauté for 3 minutes to layer the fla­vors and infuse the oil. Add canned toma-HEIRLOOM BEAN RAGOUT, ROOT toes, dark stock and tamari. Season with

VEGETABLE “BUTTER,” BRUSSELS salt and add cooked beans. Cook 5 more SPROUTS, SCALLIONS, GRILLED BREAD minutes and cool in hotel pans.

INGREDIENTS Executive Chef Sean Baker Gather Restaurant 1 lb Alubia beans 1 lb Pinquito beans

Berkeley, CA 1 lb Yellow Woman Indian beans 1 lb Good Mother Stallard beans

At this point, take the roast out of the refrigera­tor to temper. When the greens are cool enough to handle, squeeze all the excess water out of them. This should be done in small handfuls. When they are well-drained, chop the greens coarsely and set aside.

The roast: Open the pork shoulder like a book, so that the intact edge is on your left. Lay a thin layer of greens one inch from each edge, then a layer of overlapped sliced garlic. Add another layer of greens, then a layer of the walnuts. This should be densely packed so that when sliced through, there will be walnuts in every slice. Add one more layer of greens and close the book.

Tie the roast with kitchen twine, the tighter the better. This can be done with a slipknot, just so long as the knot is reinforced so it doesn’t break during cooking. Put the pork shoulder into a roasting pan fitted with a rack and slide into a 300°F oven. Roast for about three hours, basting occasionally and tossing in a glass of whatever red you’re drinking for the last hour or so. It should look like a nice wobbly pot roast when done. Let rest for twenty to thirty minutes, slice so that the stuffing is in the middle, and serve with butternut squash gratin.

Taylor Boetticher Fatted Calf Charcuterie — Napa, CA

METHOD Cook all beans separately in water with onion and bay leaf. Cool in hotel pan in their liquid.

INGREDIENTS 4 lb red onion, medium dice Pinch chili flake 2 lb celery, medium dice 4 qts dark stock 2 lb carrot, medium dice 2 sprigs rosemary & half a 1/2 cup garlic, sliced bunch of thyme – tied Pinch dried oregano Splash of tamari 12 1/2’s smoked tomatoes, julienned 1/2 lb can of tomatoes

METHOD Sweat veggies. Add rosemary and thyme. Add smoked tomato

PHOTO BY LINDA MENSINGA

ROASTED VANDE ROSE PORK LOIN WITH ANSON MILLS POLENTA & PORK CONFIT CAKE

INGREDIENTS [Pork] 1 Vande Rose Bone On Pork Loin, chine bone removed 2 cups chicken stock

METHOD Preheat oven to 375ºF. Pat dry pork loin and season with salt and pepper. In a heavy bottom sauté pan, sear pork loin on all sides until golden brown. Remove pork from pan and deglaze with chicken stock. Reduce liquid by half, strain and set aside.

Place pork, bone side down, in a roasting pan. Cook pork loin in a 375ºF oven for approximately 30 minutes to an internal temperature of 150ºF. Let the loin rest for about 10 minutes, to allow an internal temperature of 160ºF.

INGREDIENTS [Polenta Cakes] 2 cups Anson Mills Polenta 4 cups chicken stock Integrale 3 cups pork confit 4 cups whole milk Seasoned Flour

METHOD In a medium saucepot bring milk and chicken stock to a boil. Add polenta. Stir until well combined; continue stirring until mix reaches a boil. Decrease heat to low and constantly stir polenta for about one hour. Polenta is done when it becomes very thick and has a slight bite.

Executive Chef Jeff Jackson A.R. Valentien at The Lodge at Torrey Pines — La Jolla, CA

*Please see continued recipe online

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Heritage, continued from Page 8

APPLE TART TATIN apples with no re­sistance. Cool for[Serves 8] 20 minutes and then unmold theINGREDIENTS apples onto a12 medium apples, a mixture 1 t cinnamon clean sheet.of Fuji, Heirloom Arkansas 1/4 t fine sea salt

black, Pippin, or other 1 vanilla bean, scraped Cut the puff pastryflavorful apples 8 oz butter, melted and cooled into rounds the1 1/4 cups granulated sugar 1 sheet puff pastry same size as the apples, and bakeMETHOD at 375°F untilSet aside 8, 3-inch baking ramekins or soufflé cups. Place one puffed, brownedcup of the sugar and the water in a small saucepan. Boil the mix-and crispy all theture until it begins to color; swirl the pan; and continue to cook way through,until the caramel is medium amber. Whisk in the vanilla bean about 30 minutes.seeds and divide the caramel between the ramekins. Allow the crusts to cool (or they willPeel the apples. Using a mandoline, slice the apples into 2mm collapse with thethick slices. Mix the remaining 1/4 cup of sugar, salt and the cin­apples).namon together. Layer the apple slices on top of the caramel,

sprinkling the cinnamon sugar mixture between every few layers. Top the pastry withDivide the cinnamon sugar mixture equally among the ramekins. the apples and re-Spoon the melted butter over the apples, dividing it equally among warm to serve. PHOTO BY LINDA MENSINGA

the ramekins. Place the ramekins on a baking sheet and place an­other baking sheet on top of the ramekins to cover them and

Serve with applesauce made with Arkansas black apples, Threeweight the apples down.

Sisters Serena cheese and candied hazelnuts.

Bake at 350°F for 40 minutes, rotating the sheet halfway through Pastry Chef Shannon Swindle baking. When the apples are done, a knife should insert into the Craft — Los Angeles, CA

octopus dish is proudly paired with “heirloom” Just have fun shell peas, piquillo peppers, olives, winter cress By their very nature, heirlooms and heritage breedsand preserved lemon, but other entrées are mum offer a chef limitless media for experimentation. Loweon heirlooms. On the day’s prix fixe menu, infor­ sees duck as a new frontier in heritage breeds. “With allmation is minimal but still makes note of heirloom duck’s wild breeds, it’s just the most amazing, flavorfulitems. species. The fun of understanding the animal’s region,

San Francisco Bay Area food visionaries Ari Derfel its migratory patterns, what it eats – it’s just a blast.and Eric Fenster, co-owners of Gather, also decided to There’s so much for chefs to have fun with.”avoid inclusion of every purveyor on the restaurant’s And that seems to be the bottom line for revivingmenu; instead presenting simplified dish descriptions the heritage of, well, heritage. “Cooking this way,” sayson their bill of fare. In order to educate diners and sup- Baker, “makes my job more fun.”port their producers, Gather’s team brought on David Corson-Knowles to write the Source Book, an in-depth Alicia Harvie has been actively involved in compilation of every purveyor that contributes to Chef food and farm issues for years now and has a Sean Baker’s cuisine – available for guests to read upon strong interest in creative “farm to table” link-request. ages in culinary culture. She also loves any

Bienaimé mostly discusses origins, not varieties, on and all things chocolate. When not freelanc­the menu. “The stars of our dishes are advertised by ing, Alicia works as the Program Manager their origin. Beyond that, we have a monthly newsletter for Farm Aid (www.farmaid.org), where she where I talk in depth about our sourcing.” Regardless of pens its “Ask Farm Aid” column each month. how much his customers care, Bienaimé says, “It’s Farm Aid’s mission is to build a vibrant family-farm centered mostly about transparency. I think it’s my job to educate system of agriculture in America. Alicia can be reached at people.” alicia.harvie@gmail.com.

100% Berkshire P100% Berkshire Porkork

Kelly and Nina Biensen introduced Eden Farms

100% Berkshire Pork to America’s leading chefs

in 1998. They surpassed their goal of supplying

the best tasting pork the way nature intended it:

tender, juicy, and flavorful every time.

“It’s the Ben and Jerry’s of Pork:

Socially conscientious and

sinfully delicious.”

— Time Magazine, October 2001

www.BetterPork.com

✓100% Heirloom Bershire Pork (641) 483-2292

✓Exquisite Marbling & Depth of California Distributors:

Flavor Preferred Meats

800-397-6328

www.preferredmeats.com✓Farmer-owned and Controlled

San Diego Meat Company

✓Sustainable Practices 619-233-8871

State Center, Iowa www.sandiegomeatcompany.com

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Chef Baker recently took their newest item – a red pea of African origin that predates the black-eyed pea – for a spin in Gather’s kitchen. He planned for it to ac­company a goat dish, but the pea’s sweet and smoky gravy was so tasty that he was compelled to make it a new dish on its own.

Still, Baker doesn’t feel heirloom varieties require special treatment, they just tend to inspire new dishes. His enthusiasm has translated into unique menu cre­ations where heirlooms run the show, like his assortment of vegan “charcuterie,” which boasts varieties like purple haze carrots (which harkens back to the vegetable’s origi­nal color in the wild) and romanesco broccoli (a cen­turies-old Italian variant of broccoli and cauliflower).

In the protein department, Lowe has seen truly unique utilizations of heritage meat at Cochon 555 events. One of his favorite discoveries hailed from the Bay Area. “It came from Chris Cosentino,” Incanto’s il­lustrious chef noted for his work with offal. “He made this dish called Chilibones, where he steamed and fried all the bones of the animal. Nothing went to waste. It was the most flavorful and probably the best utilization of a heritage animal I’ve ever seen.”

A tough sell?

Though exciting for the chef, heirloom and her­itage varieties bring certain challenges. For Bienaimé, the most important is not overwhelming Marché’s cus­tomers. “I would rather cook something different every­day, but it’s generally not what consumers want. To accommodate, this Fall I offered a different squash soup every month to give just a taste of variety.”

In the face of similar challenges, Baker uses staples on Gather’s menu, like burgers and pizzas, as a founda­tion for dishes that introduce heirlooms in a more ap­proachable way. “I’ll add a micro-seasonal twist to the dish, whether it’s squash on pizza or particular varieties of onions on a burger.”

Another challenge is advertising heirloom selections on the menu. At La Jolla’s A.R. Valentien, waiters talk about “farm to table” when presenting the evening’s menu, but Chef de Cuisine Tim Kolanko notes a trade-off in providing every detail about heirloom varieties. “It’s about giving just enough that consumers get excited.”

Though bursting with heirloom options, A.R. Valentien’s menu is selective in listing them. Their

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NINE SPICED CALIFORNIA LAMB SADDLE, NANTES CARROT, GOLDEN RAISIN, ALMONDS, FREGOLA & OLIVE JUS

INGREDIENTS [Lamb saddle] 1 each lamb saddle 2 cloves garlic, microplaned 3 T almonds, toasted and 1 each onion, brunoise ground 1/2 cup olive oil 3 T nine spice 1/4 cup sherry vinegar 1/2 lb Fregola 1 each orange, juice and zest 1 each bell pepper, roasted 2 T mint, julienne and diced

INGREDIENTS [Carrot & golden raisin purée] 1 lb Nantes carrots, peeled and coarsely chopped 1/2 cup golden raisins 2 T almond oil

INGREDIENTS [Olive Jus] 1 cup lamb jus 1 cup green olives, sliced

METHOD Cook fregola like pasta until just done. Strain and rinse off excess starch. Sauté onions and garlic in olive oil until translucent. Mix fre­gola, olive and onion mixture, sherry vinegar, bell pepper and juli­enned mint. Season with salt and pepper and set aside.

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Next, pressure cook carrots and golden raisins for 15 minutes. Purée and season with salt and almond oil. Set aside. To make olive jus, re­duce lamb jus with olives until proper consistency is achieved. Lastly, take lamb loin off the bone and clean of all fat and silver skin.

Season lamb saddle and sear on all sides. Dredge meat in almond and nine spice and finish in oven until desired temperature is achieved.

Executive Chef Guillaume Bienaimé Marché — Menlo Park, CA

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LEMON & LEMON TART

INGREDIENTS [Candied lemon] 10 lemons 3 liters water

METHOD Select lemons with best natural shape. Cut a small hole in bottom of lemon with apple corer. Remove pulp with small Parisian scoop. Clean pith with Parisian scoop. Submerge lemon in water and simmer for 6 hours. Remove the lemon and cool at room temperature.

Remove the remaining pith and place into simple syrup, simmer for 6 hours. Remove and cool at room temperature. Remove pith from syrup and scoop remaining pith. Place lemons in syrup and simmer slowly for 6 hours. Bring lemons to room temperature in syrup.

INGREDIENTS [Simple syrup] 1 kilogram granulated sugar 1 liter water

METHOD Boil two ingredients together.

INGREDIENTS [Lemon curd]

METHOD Brink lemon juice to a boil. Mix eggs and sugar. Temper egg and guar with half quantity of hot juice. Add remaining juice, sieve. Cool at room temperature. Blend with butter and zest.

INGREDIENTS [lemon sorbet] 500 grams lemon juice 500 grams simple syrup

METHOD Mix and freeze ingredients.

INGREDIENTS [Sable pastry dough]

METHOD Soften butter. Add all of the ingredients. Roll to desired thickness. Bake at 350°F for 15 minutes. Cut sable pastry dough. Brush it with sable glaze and rebake for 5-7 minutes.

INGREDIENTS [Sable glaze]

METHOD Boil confectioners sugar and water. Blend with burnt butter in vita-prep. Store at room temperature.

INGREDIENTS [Vanilla Chantilly] 500 grams cream 125 grams sugar

METHOD Whisk ingredients together.

INGREDIENTS [Citrus segment]

ASSEMBLY Add a small quantity of Chantilly to inverted lemon. Arrange citrus sections around the lemon. Flatten one scoop of lemon sorbet on top of sections. Top with lemon curd. Invert onto spatula for plating.

Executive Chef Paul Pairet Mr & Mrs Bund — Shanghai, ChinaChina — The Next Gourmet Frontier

Inspiration and investment draw chefs East

300 grams sugar 500 grams eggs 500 grams butter, cut 1 cm

500 grams lemon juice lemon peel

800 grams butter 10 grams salt 600 grams confectioners sugar

200 grams egg yolk 1000 grams flour 200 grams coconut powder

250 grams confectioners’ sugar 250 grams water

200 grams burnt butter

1 grapefruit segment 1 lemon segment

1 orange segment 1 lime segment

East, have not only defined his culinary vision but also Chef Lam cooks the four-and-a-half pound duck in a

Carleigh Connelly

While the West Coast boasts one of the country’s most progressive and trend-setting dining scenes, Ameri­can food and wine establishments can push both their culinary and business boundaries further by looking east. No, for once we’re not talking about New York; think fur­ther east, think bigger…China. With over 6,000 miles separating Shanghai from San Francisco, why should China be on California chefs’ culinary radar? Two words: inspiration and investment.

Although California’s green-driven cooking creed primarily draws inspiration from the area’s bounty of sus­

tainable and seasonal ingredients, in today’s connected community chefs would be wise to recognize diners’ in­creasing demand for exotic and worldly flavors.

Exploring Chinese flavors inspires innovation Jean-Georges Vongerichten, one of the most cele­

brated chefs on the planet and father of “vibrant cuisine,” has created new flavors throughout his career by combin­ing traditional French techniques with Asian ingredients. After cooking throughout France in the early stages of his career, his extensive travels in Asia led to his exploration of fresh spices, opening a vast palate of tastes from which to draw. His love for the exotic and aromatic flavors of the

the way in which Americans eat. Just as Jean-Georges’s early food research and travels

throughout France developed the beginning foundation of his signature cooking method, Executive Chef Wilson Lam of Beijing’s Duck de Chine dedicated nine months to diligently tasting Peking duck at over one-hundred es­tablishments in order to develop China’s best version of the area’s hallmark dish. After eating his way across the region, Lam collected the leading preparations from his culinary explorations and experiences, creating the ulti­mate Peking duck recipe. Each precise step of his final formula is a result of looking beyond his restaurant for in­spiration, arguably producing not only one of the best ducks in Beijing, but perhaps even the world.

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460 degree wood fire oven, heated by apple wood that is be­tween 60 and 70 years old, for exactly 65 minutes; achieving an exquisitely crisp skin that perfectly balances the unctuous duck fat with every bite. The juxtaposition of the silky and crunchy textures, in combination with the duck’s savory char­acter, makes for a winning dish that is undeniably addictive.

Jean-Georges concludes the “only way to expand your palate is to experience it firsthand by traveling,” em­phasizing that chefs can keep their menu fresh and excit­ing through interactive research such as eating, exploring and cooking abroad. The success of his nine U.S. restau­rants, in addition to five world-renowned international es­tablishments, demonstrates the benefits of coming into

See China, Page 18

Above: Left to Right: Toasting Chinese Wine on Great Wall, Duck de Chine’s Modern Chinese Dining Room, Changyu Castel Vineyards in Yantai, Wangfujing Night Market in Beijing.

15

PEKING DUCK TACO

INGREDIENTS: 1 duck drumstick 2 t chicken powder 400 grams of bamboo shoots 3 individual spring roll wrappers 1 t fishmeal

METHOD CRAB FRITTERS, BLACK PEPPER Duck Drumsticks:For duck drumsticks, first skin the drumsticks, remove the

fat and then cut it into 1/4 inch cubes. Next pour the bamboo shoots into boil- SAUCE & ASIAN PEAR ing water for two minutes. Fry the bamboo cubes and then the diced duck, [Yields 4 portions] separately. Mix the two fried components together. Fry each spring roll wrap­per with boiling oil until it becomes bowl shaped. INGREDIENTS [Fritters]

1 cup crab Celery PRESENTATION 1/2 cup pâte à choux Salt and pepper as needed Top up each “bowl” with duck and bamboo mixture. Garnished with julienne Tabasco to taste lettuce. METHOD

Mix well. Fry nuggets until golden. Blot well. Executive Chef Wilson Lam

Duck de Chine Restaurant at 1949 The Hidden City INGREDIENTS [Pâte à choux] Beijing, China 6 T water 1/2 cup flour

3 T butter 2 ea eggs

METHOD Bring water and butter to a simmer. Stir in flour and cook until batter comes clean off the pot. Transfer to a mixer and whisk 2 minutes to

COD STEAMED WITH SHIMEJI cool. Add 1 egg until fully incorporated. Repeat until all eggs are fully MUSHROOMS, MISO-YUZU BROTH incorporated. Cool before using. [Yields 4 portions]

INGREDIENTS 3/4 cup scallions, washed, dried 2 T crushed black peppercorns INGREDIENTS [For the mushrooms] and sliced 1 cup sweet soy5 cups Shimeji mushrooms, 4 T olive oil 3 T ginger, minced 1/4 cup light soywoody part of stems removed 1 t salt 2 T garlic, minced 5 T sugar6 T shallots, minced 2 T fresh lemon juice 1 T fermented black beans, 3 T lime juice1 Thai chili, minced 1 T chopped thyme rinsed, squeezed and chopped 3 T grape seed oil1 T lemon zest no pith, fine 1 T chopped parsley

Salt to tastejulienne METHOD Fry garlic and ginger until golden, then add scallions and cook over METHOD medium heat until soft; add pepper and cook until very fragrant. Add Sweat shallots in olive oil until soft; add mushrooms and cook cov­remaining ingredients and bring to boil. Simmer until the sauceered, on low heat until tender. Mix in lemon zest and chili, then sea-coats the back of a spoon, remove from heat and puree to mediumson with the salt and lemon juice. Put into pan to cool. Once METHOD smooth (there should be some grittiness).completely cooled, add herbs, mix well and reserve. Let ingredients steep for 15 minutes, then strain. Mix in white miso

and yuzu. Warm as needed. Serve with a side of wild rice. INGREDIENTS [Lime vinaigrette]INGREDIENTS [For the cod] 1/2 cup fresh lime juice sugar)4 6-oz cod filets Olive oil, as needed INGREDIENTS [Wild rice] 1/4 cup Japanese rice vinegar 1 t salt2 cups Shimeji mix Salt, as needed 1 cup wild rice 7 1/2 cups chicken stock 1 T palm sugar (or regular 5 T olive oil3 T shallot, minced 1 t salt

METHOD 1 T olive oil METHODPlace 6 oz cod filet in center of sauté pan and season with salt and Combine all in a squirt bottle. Shake well before using. cayenne. Top liberally with mushroom mixture. Season with a little METHOD

more salt and drizzle with olive oil. Steam it until just cooked. Sweat shallots in olive oil until tender and add rice; stir to mix well. INGREDIENTSAdd chicken stock and bring to simmer. Cover and cook until rice is 20 crab fritters 1/4 cup endive, medium julienneINGREDIENTS [Broth] tender. Season with salt and reserve in liquid. 8 T black pepper 3 T lime vinaigrette1 1/2 cups chicken stock 3 inch x 3 inch konbu, lightly 1/8 cup Korean Asian pear, cut Cilantro, fine chiffonade, as1 1/2 cups water toasted ASSEMBLY into fine julienne needed1 green Thai chili, split 1 1/2 cups rice

METHOD 3 T butter ASSEMBLY Combine in a pot and bring to a simmer. Remove from heat and add: 2 T parsley, chiffonade Spoon the sauce on the plate. Arrange the crab fritters on top. Scat-Salt and white pepper to taste.16 17ter the Asian pear on top of the crab. Dress the endive, and thenINGREDIENTS scatter on top of the pear. Sprinkle gently with cilantro. 1/2 cup bonito flakes 5 T white unsweetened miso Executive Chef Jean-Georges Vongerichten

4 T fresh dill, chopped 2 T unsalted yuzu juice Jean-Georges at Three on the Bund — Shanghai, Executive Chef Jean-Georges Vongerichten

Jean-Georges at Three on the Bund — Shanghai, China

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China, continued from Page 15

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contact with new forms of inspiration. He further ad- terize both traditional and modern Chinese courses, vises that, “You always want to keep clientele interested. help him develop food where the last bite is as exciting Old chicken needs to be dressed up in different ways.” as the first.

For instance, Jean-Georges takes a staple French ap-Chinese dining model a source of inspirationpetizer, seared foie gras with caramelized fruit, and rein­

vents it by adding typical Chinese seasonings, such as More and more culinary professionals are following sesame and galangal. The complex textures that charac- the lead of world chefs, such as Lam and Jean-Georges,

devoting their time to hands-on re­search outside the kitchen. Executive Chef Paul Pairet of Mr. & Mrs. Bund, a contemporary French eatery that shares the same building with Jean-Georges’s Shanghai establishment, does not inte­grate Chinese ingredients into his dishes, but instead adopts a Chinese dining model into his chic restaurant by offering over 250 items on his menu.

When asked why he offers such an extensive list of food options, Chef Pairet explains “That is precisely where we Raised Naturally to Taste Best. drew the inspiration from the menus: traditional Chinese restaurants. It’s a great concept, and one which suits what I am doing at Mr & Mrs Bund: a ‘de­clension’ of dishes. Think about it this way: a traditional Western menu tries to avoid repetition at all costs; it tries to present very different items to the guest. But the fact is, if I truly want to do con­sensual cuisine – to offer guests the food they love best – the menu cannot be structured this way; it cannot be so lim­ited. It needs to open up.” Both Chef Pairet and Jean-Georges’s restaurants share the foundation of French cuisine, but each chef integrates the influence of Chinese culture into their restaurants in separate ways. Their diverse culinary products illuminate the unlimited appli­cation of ideas that stem from explo-

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Steakhouse & Wine Bar and host of CNBC’s Wine Portfo­lio caught wind of China’s burgeoning wine country, he immediately contacted EAST tours to arrange a food and wine excursion, giving him access to some of the most prestigious Chinese vineyards and celebrated chefs in the East. “For thousands of years, China has perfected a tapestry of rich and varied cuisines, so they know how to tease the senses. Using this attention to detail, their approach to wine will also revolutionize the way we think about drinking. As their confidence grows we’ll see dif­ferent grape varietals, new blends and innovative tech­niques, all designed to create a distinctly Chinese approach to wine. And that’s quite exciting.” Instead of wasting valuable time researching the multitude of hid­den gems, inspirational kitchens and food markets throughout China, you can leave your trip in the hands of locals and travel specialists who can heighten your ex­perience through their expertise. EAST Tours is a renowned veteran in private custom tours of China and Asia, known for making the potentially overwhelming preparation for an international trip manageable by cre­ating tailor-made traveling plans.

Jody explains, “Wine Portfolio is a global televi­sion show that celebrates the wine lifestyle, and as

such, I am always on the lookout for interesting wine destinations. China and all the potential of 1.35 billion consumers is the new frontier for wine consumption, and perhaps surprisingly, wine production. We wanted to travel to China to check out the wine scene first­hand. China is the world’s largest wine consumer and as the country continues to grow, their consumption will only rise. It is like being at the epicenter of the new, ‘new world.’”

Dawei Wu, Deputy Director of China National Tourist Office in Los Angeles, explains, “China’s geogra­phy, weather and regional resources inspire our eating culture. Likewise, I believe the wine in China will be­come equally famous as our food. Ask those that have traveled the Silk Road how delicious Chinese grapes are, and you’ll see the potential in wine. I am confident that the future is very good for Chinese wine producers.”

From its burgeoning wine scene to its rich culinary heritage, China is a world of endless bounty. China not only presents a gastronomic playground for chefs seek­ing exotic flavors, but once-in-a-lifetime opportunities for culinary and oenology investors as well. When plan­ning your next trip or business venture, don’t forget to look east, Far East.

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18 19

La Costanera’s Blowtorch Tuna Cebiche

Living La Vida Ceviche Fresh Seafood Seduces Diners & Chefs into Nuevo Latino Cuisine

Christina Mueller Welter

If a nation’s cuisine never stood still, it could be ar­gued that the trade of a chef is to improve on tradition, carrying the art and style of food forward. In the United States, raw seafood preparations have benefited from two diverse cultural influences and trends: the Japanese sushi craze of the 1990s and the Pan-Latin flavor fad of the past decade, which continues on today. Raw fish, which currently is called by many names, such as crudo, ceviche and carpaccio, can now be found on menus of any ethnic origin, presented in traditional and updated prepara­tions. Following the increasing prevalence of ceviche-like dishes on California and Las Vegas menus over the past few years, it is clear that raw fish and seafood in a sophis­ticated, modern presentation are relevant to any cuisine.

Nuevo Latino to Peruvian The food of Peru, a mix of myriad cultural influ­

ences, represents one branch of the Pan-Latin flavor craze that continues to impact the restaurant scene. In the U.S. today, many chefs seek to distinguish Peruvian food from Pan-Latin food with a focus on ceviche.

Simple, fresh, just-off-the-boat fish diced and served with a squeeze of fresh lime juice, ceviche is a traditional dish in Peru. Ceviche has its origins in the fishing culture from the coast of central Peru where it is typically served as

Left: Spectacular views of Montara’s beachfront from La Costanera’s oceanside dining room

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RHODE ISLAND FLUKE CEVICHE

INGREDIENTS

INGREDIENTS [Garnish]

METHOD Combine all ingredients together in a large bowl. Season Fluke with salt and white pepper. Slice Fluke into proportional slices and add to marinade. Separate into four individual bowls, drizzle with marinade and garnish with diced blood orange, green onion and 4505 Chicharronnes.

Executive Chef Mike Silvera Bar Crudo — San Francisco, CA

PHOTO BY JENNIFER WALKER

6 oz sashimi grade Fluke 2 T lemon juice 2 T lime juice 3/4 cup coconut milk 1 T sugar 1 t Crystal hot sauce 1 T tomato, diced

1 T Jalapeño, sliced 1 T mint 1 T cilantro 1 T basil 4 T olive oil 2 t lemon oil Salt and white pepper to taste.

Blood orange, diced Green onion, julienne

4505 Chicharrones

[Serves 4]

INGREDIENTS 2 lb shrimp, boiled 1/2 cup lime juice 1/2 cup passion fruit puree 1 1/2 teaspoon salt 2 teaspoons aji Amarillo 1/4 cup red onion, julienned 1/4 cup celery, julienned 1/4 cup red pepper, julienned 1/4 cup chopped cilantro

INGREDIENTS [Plantain chips] Plantains, sliced Chive oil

METHOD Boil the shrimp. Peel, clean and

slice in two horizontally. For the sauce, mix all ingredients for the sauce in a bowl and add the vegetables and shrimp. Put the shrimp seviche on a plate and decorate with freshly fried chive oil plantain chips.

Corporate Chef Michael Cressotti

SUSHISAMBA Las Vegas, NV

SHRIMP SEVICHE WITH PLANTAIN CHIPS

a daytime dish, shortly after the fisherman dock for the day. Often “cooked” up to three hours in lime or other citrus juice, local Peruvian ingredients typify traditional ceviche, with onion, corn, cilantro and Peruvian chile ever-present.

Peru, like the United States, has a long history of immi­gration and this global influence has long been felt in the cuisine of the region. Influences as far-reaching as Spain and Portugal, China and Japan mix and mesh with the local “Criollo,” or the blended culture of people of Spanish, African and indigenous heritage. This melting pot of flavor characterizes the forefront of Nuevo Latino cooking. Chefs

around the country look to Peru for inspiration and, finding it, bring unique and creative interpretations to their menus.

Updated ahi Chef Carlos Altamirano, a Peruvian native who car­

ries local spices back to the U.S. in his suitcase, explains that tradition brings the flavor and the heritage of ce­viche to the states, but he believes that the style and the presentation must be modern. At his restaurant, La Costanera, in Montara Beach, customers are looking for sashimi style, “a la minute” cooking, enjoying smaller

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CEVICHE, continued from Previous Page

pieces of seafood. He recently created a new dish, Blow­torch Tuna, which updates the standard ahi tuna loin:

Take a tuna loin, rub all over with Peruvian sea salt, then use a culinary blowtorch over the whole fish until the salt is a light brown or a little dark. Briefly submerge the entire loin in an ice bath, just enough to stop the cooking, then slice the loin like sashimi. “The ocean fla­vor is so intense” he says. Altamirano serves the ahi with passion fruit pisco dipping sauce.

“A La Minute” presentation At SUSHISAMBA in Las Vegas, Corporate Chef

Michael Cressotti adapts the best of Japanese and Brazilian techniques and ingredients to suit modern palates. Ceviches and tiraditos, which are related to ce­viche but in appearance more closely resemble sashimi, crudo or carpaccio) are served “a la minute”; the citrus is squeezed over the fish just before leaving the kitchen, arriving at the table within moments. There is no time for the fish to cook, leaving the presentation very fresh and the taste of the fish paramount.

Superior ingredients As with any cuisine, superior ingredients bring out

the best flavor. The chef must work with a purveyor of

HALIBUT CEBICHE CLASSICO [4 servings]

INGREDIENTS [leche de tigre] 2 Halibut fillets 6-8 Key Limes (8 oz.) – freshly squeezed 1 t ginger 1 t garlic 1 1/2 cup fish stock 2 t Habanero chili 1 sprig cilantro 1 celery stalk 3 t salt 1 cup ice 1 medium white onion

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METHOD Blend all the ingredients in a blender. Strain juice. Set aside

INGREDIENTS 1-2 lb California Halibut fillet 2 t Habanero chili, finely diced 2 T yam, cooked 3 T Peruvian corn 2 1/2 red onions, julienne 1 sprig cilantro

high quality seafood that is extremely fresh to achieve outstanding ceviche and tiradito. Chef Mike Selvera at Bar Crudo in San Francisco knows it may sound obvious, but ad­vises any chef looking to introduce raw seafood to their menu to find the best pur­veyors around. His fa­vorites are Royal Hawaiian and a small shop known as Jimmy Goldfish. “You cannot beat their shrimp” he says. Chef Altamirano works closely with AllSeas Fisheries and General Manager Andrew Generalao of La Mar Ce­bicheria in San Francisco, credits Monterey Seafood as their only seafood vendor. Unlike his culinary peers, Cressotti looks mostly abroad for first-class fare, explain­ing that 90 percent of his seafood is flown in daily from Tsukiji Market in Japan.

Which fish makes the best ceviche? Ask a different chef, get a different answer. The most popular seafood

El Caserio’s Peruvian & Italian-inspired dining room

METHOD Chop Halibut into cubes (2 cm each) place in a bowl. Add salt, ha­banero chili and cubes of ice. Stir and add the leche de tigre. Let it set for 30 seconds and remove the ice cubes. Add julienned onion. Place cebiche on a plate, garnish with onion, corn, cilantro and yams.

Executive Chef Gaston Acurio La Mar Cebicheria Peruana — San Francisco, CA

Owner & Executive Chef Carlos Altamirano with his wife, Shu

used in the U.S. in­cludes Mahi Mahi, oc­topus, halibut, shrimp, ahi tuna and sea bass. At SUSHISAMBA, Cressotti does not serve squid or octopus in the sashimi style be­cause, “My customer is not interested in tradi­tional raw Japanese fish.” He believes, “Clams, Peruvian scal­lops and halibut, any firm fish or shellfish makes great ceviche.”

Yellowtail and Kampachi are great to work with also. At La Mar, octopus is embraced by the clientele and

offered in two ceviches. They only use Tako, Japanese octopus, in their ceviche for its superior texture in raw form, “But,” says Generalao, “I sell the most California halibut followed closely by ahi and Tai snapper.”

Altamirano sells the most Petrale sole, red snapper and shrimp and uses Spanish octopus in his tiraditos. Patrons are becoming more and more open to trying previously unfamiliar parts of the fish such as the collar

CEVICHE DE CAMARONES [Serves 1]

INGREDIENTS 8 21-25* Ecuadorian white shrimp

METHOD

or cheeks. “The cheeks are so delicate” says Altamirano, noticing, “they are becoming more popular.”

Credit for the customer’s interest in fish parts such as cheeks, fins and collar must be given to the spike of interest in Japanese food, particularly sushi, in the US, during the 1990s. Sushi opened the door and enabled other cuisines to offer raw seafood preparations. As a culture, the U.S. “needed to embrace sushi first,” says Generalao. “That enabled La Mar to take the concept to the next level.”

The sushi trend brought with it the traditional Japanese respect for the fish itself. “We take the utmost care in cleaning the fish,” says Cressotti.

In addition to exceptional attention to detail and expert-level knife skills when preparing fish, creating dishes with superior seafood and fresh, hand-squeezed lime juice from quality limes, is also mandatory. Leche de Tigre (tiger’s milk) is the colloquial name for the “juice” produced from the ceviche ingredients. It is “the heart and soul” of ceviche” says Generalao. La Mar’s juice consists of lime juice, onion, cilantro, fish stock, ha­banero chilies (although the Peruvian rocoto chile is tra­ditional), garlic, salt and pepper and ice cubes, emulsified and strained. “It takes three hours of prep” says Generalao but it is what gives our ceviche its power. There can be no shortcuts in the process.”

PHOTO BY LINDA MENSINGA

Poach lightly in water until they curl, about 3 to 4 minutes. Shock in ice.

INGREDIENTS 1/2 red onion, cut lengthwise Salt, to taste Juice of 2 lemons or limes

METHOD Mix together and place shrimp in marinade at least 2 hours. When done marinating, cut shrimp into small pieces.

INGREDIENTS Serve with potato and avocado as shown. Garnish with lemon and 2-3 sprigs fresh cilantro, chopped 1 baby red potato, cooked, cilantro. and whole peeled, sliced 1/2 tomato, finely chopped Avocado sliced, to garnish Chef Lopez says Ecuadorians enjoy ceviche with chifles (fried plantain 1 T corn oil Lemon slices chips) and cancha (corn nuts) on the side. Salt and pepper, to taste

Chef William Lopez METHOD El Caserio Toss shrimp mixture with chopped cilantro, tomato, oil, salt and pepper. Silver Lake, CA

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CEVICHE, continued from Previous Page

SEA BASS CEVICHE [Serves 4]

INGREDIENTS [Leche tigre] 2 oz celery, chopped 3 oz onions, chopped 10 cloves garlic, chopped 1 oz fresh ginger, chopped 2 cups and 1 T lemon juice Salt and pepper, to taste 1 t rocoto (Peruvian chile pepper) 1 t aji amarillo paste (Peruvian chile pepper paste) 1/2 t garlic paste 4 oz seabass

METHOD INGREDIENTS Blend the first 5 ingredients. Season, and then add rocoto, aji and 32-36 choclos (large grain, white Peruvian corn), cooked garlic paste. Blend again. 32-36 cancha serranas (Peruvian corn like corn nuts), fried

8 cubes sweet potatoes, peeled and cooked INGREDIENTS 2 ounces red onion, thinly sliced ASSEMBLY Cilantro, chopped Plate sea bass ceviche. Serve with sweet potatoes, choclos and 8 ounces seabass, cut into small pieces cancha serranas as shown.

METHOD Chef Ricardo Lopez Toss leche tigre with onion, cilantro and sea bass. Mo-Chica — Los Angeles

TThh ChefeeChef PreferencePreferenceCTheTheChhee ’f’’f’ssss PPrreeffeerreennccee

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Chef William Lopez at El Caserio in Silver Lake, Los Angeles, works traditional Ecuadorian ceviche into an Italian-inspired menu. Shrimp and tomatoes are the stars here as they are in Ecuador and are featured in the ceviches offered. El Caserio’s cuisine reveals the versatil­ity of raw fish preparations, whether the dish is served on a European menu or offered in a Latin-influenced restaurant.

The Daily Special Just a few miles away from El Caserio, Mo-Chica’s

Executive Chef Ricardo Zarate, is known for his “Ce­viche Diario”. His ceviches are Peruvian in spirit, but it is not until he chooses the catch of the day that he designs that days menu. Altamirano concurs; “You can turn any­thing into ceviche, all you need is spices and lime.”

At Bar Crudo, Chef Mike Selvera is influenced by the crudos of Spain and Italy, but takes inspiration from every culture that uses raw fish. “I love to throw true tiraditos and ceviches on the menu whenever possible,” he says. Atlantic fluke with coconut milk, citrus juices, jalapeño and Fresno chilies, blood orange segments and Chef Ryan Farr’s 4505 chicharonnes as garnish is fre­quently featured on the Bar Crudo’s menu, impressing

adventurous food-seekers and fish aficionados alike for the impeccable freshness of the fish and creativity of the dish.

No matter what it is called, modern ceviches bene­fit from global traditions with raw seafood. Principally enriched by the culinary heritage of Japan, Peru, Italy and Brazil, the freshest takes on ceviches and crudos push the boundaries of established practice and bring unique ingredients, technique and presentation to the fore. Chefs take the best traditions; add a heaping spoonful of creativity and a handful of super-fresh in­gredients to build a following for raw seafood. Perfect execution and high quality ingredients are a winner every time.

Christina Mueller Welter is a dedicated en­trepreneur who is passionate about wine, food and travel. She is a creative product develop­ment and marketing consultant for gourmet, natural and allergen-free foods, in addition to San Francisco Professional Food Society’s Membership Chair. Christina blogs about food

and wine at http://thoughtfulgourmet.blogspot.com/ and Tweets at EatDrinkThink. Her favorite edible flower is basil and her favorite wine varietal is currently gewürztraminer.

Visit our Web site for delicious, menu-inspiring

All Natural Slow Brewed recipesMild and Flavorful All Kosher

PAREVE

Fiesta Ceviche [Serves 4]

A Latin-Asian Fusion of Sweet and Spicy!

Featuring Marukan Rice Vinegar and Wasabi

INGREDIENTS [Dressing] METHOD 1½ cups Marukan Seasoned Gourmet Rice Mix the Marukan Seasoned Gourmet Vinegar Dressing Dressing, lime juice, seaweed flakes 4 limes, fresh squeezed and wasabi powder. Cube peppers, 2 yellow and/or orange peppers (sweet) tilapia, crab and shrimp and mari­1 T seaweed flakes, ground (more to taste) nade in vinegar/lime juice for 1 hour. ¼ t Wasabi powder (more if you like hot!) Drain, add chopped cilantro and 1 cup cilantro, chopped toss. Serve on tostada or with chips Tilapia, Shrimp and Crab, cubed ½ inch or crackers.

Use in Asian dishes and non-Asian 562.630.6060 dishes as well for mild, sweet, delightful 562.630.0330 Fax flavor. You’ll love it on salads and dips www.marukan-usa.com right out of the bottle! PARAMOUNT, CA

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RH at Andaz West Hollywood’s

Périgourdine Poached Egg with Mushrooms Foie Gras

& Black Truffle (recipe online)

BABY OCTOPUS STEW [Serves 4 appetizer portions]

INGREDIENTS 2 lb baby octopus 4 T extra virgin olive oil 4 T dry white wine 2 cloves garlic, smashed 1/4 medium onion, chopped 1 pinch chili flakes 1 small bunch parsley, chopped 1/4 lb fresh stewed tomatoes 2 fresh basil leaves

METHOD Clean the octopus, rinse with running water and set aside. In a sauté pan heat the extra virgin olive oil over medium/low heat. Add the garlic, the onion and half of the parsley and cook until the onion is translucent. At this point add the octopus, mix well and in­crease the heat to high. Add the wine and let the alcohol evaporate.

Lower the heat and simmer the octopus for about 5 to 7 minutes. Add the tomatoes, the basil leaves, and the chili flakes. Cover the pan with a lid and let it cook over medium low heat for 35 to 40 minutes or until the octopus is fork tender. After cooking, let sit covered for a few minutes, sprinkle with the

rest of the chopped parsley and serve in hot bowls.

Chef Massimiliano Conti La Ciccia

San Francisco, CA

Hyper-Regional Cuisine Specialized Ethnic Cuisine Emerges

as Diners Demand Authenticity

Carolyn Alburger

Have a hankering for Hunan? Craving Cambodian? Gone are the days when Italian, Chinese and Mexican cuisines were described as exotic in cities. In today’s urban culinary landscape, taquerias and trattorias are almost as common as burger joints; and Americans are looking be­yond general ethnic genres for a taste of something new: hyper-regional restaurants devoted to specific geographic regions within foreign countries.

Home: Where the cook’s heart is Like many chefs who introduce a new cuisine into a

metropolitan area, Sardinia-born Massimiliano Conti felt he was taking a gamble when in April 2006 he opened La Ciccia in San Francisco, a restaurant dedicated to the au­thentic dishes of his homeland. But Conti, who had worked for several years on Princess Cruises before serv­ing as a sommelier at Galileo and as a general manager at Vincenzo restaurant in Washington, DC, was adamant about the cuisine he knew and understood well. “For me, there was no other cuisine to cook at my own restaurant. Sardinian food is in my blood,” he says.

Chef Sebastien Archambault held a similar sentiment when he was enlisted for the executive chef position at RH at the Andaz West Hollywood in Los Angeles. A na­tive of Périgord in Southwestern France, Archambault,

who worked at several Michelin-starred restaurants in­cluding La Pirate in Corsica and Raymond Poincare in France under Alain Ducasse, insisted on recreating the menu with a Périgordine slant.

Like Conti and Archambault, Provence native Dorothee Mitrani-Bell focused on the cuisine of her homeland when she opened La Note in Berkeley over a decade ago. Although many expected a formal, sit-down restaurant similar to her only French predecessor at the time, Chez Panisse, Mitrani-Bell stuck to her guns. “It’s always been important to me to tell the story of my home­land,” she says. “I’ve stayed true to the carefree Provençal attitude and style of food since the beginning.”

Rough Starts: Overcoming customers’ expectations

Despite chefs’ desires to create regionally-focused menus, customers’ generalized perceptions of particular cuisines can make running a successful hyper-regional restaurant challenging. Mayan chef Gilberto Cetina, who grew up cooking in his parents’ restaurant in the Yucatan state of Mexico, opened Chichen Itza in 2001, the first Yucatan restaurant in Southern California. Faced with a population that expected quesadillas and fajitas from a Mexican restaurant, it wasn’t easy at the start for Cetina. “I’ve always been very clear with my customers that we don’t serve what they may expect at a Mexican place. If

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they want that kind of food, they can go to the Mexican restaurant next door.” Now considered one of the fore­most Latin chefs in the U.S. as a result of the steps he’s taken to advance the under-represented cuisine of his homeland, Cetina’s persistence has paid off.

Unlike Chichen Itza’s opening, Executive Chef Staffan Terje waited some time before introducing pa­trons to Perbacco’s exclusively Piedmontese-focused cui­sine. The Swedish-born chef first worked at prestigious restaurants throughout Europe and then at the original Piatti in Yountville before opening Perbacco, his own concept in San Francisco, with partner Umberto Gibin. Though the restaurant is devoted to the cuisine of Pied­mont, Italy, the opening menu of 2006 had a broader re­gional focus. “People wanted freshwater seafood, which is not indigenous to Piedmont,” says Terje. “We opened ourselves up to the cuisine of Liguria to soften the blow of not serving the Alfredo and marinara sauce folks ex­pected at an Italian restaurant.” It wasn’t until the restaurant established its reputation in the city that it was able to confine itself completely to Piedmont.

Making foreign dishes approachable Chef Terje has noticed that it normally takes clien­

tele one to three tries before coming around to a foreign dish. “Persistence is key,” he insists. “My customers still aren’t comfortable committing to an entrée-size bowl of tripe; I place relatively exotic items on the menu as ap­petizers and make sure that the staff can convey some enthusiasm and education around the dish.”

Archambault will take a similar approach when he at­tempts to introduce a more rustic Perigordine duck neck offering in the upcoming months. The dish, duck neck skin stuffed with meat and vegetables, then poached and sliced before serving, is a traditional delicacy of Southwest France. “I know I’m going to have to market this per­fectly,” says Archambault. “We’re working to get the de­scription and the naming just right before adding it to the menu. Staff training will be crucial for this dish.”

Authenticity grows from farm connections Not only can chefs run into difficulties convincing

customers to try an unfamiliar dish, but they can also come across issues with regard to resourcing the necessary ingredients to support their hyper-regional menu. When recreating a spe­cific hyper-regional cuisine, one can imagine that working with mainly local ingredients could pose as a potential obstacle to precisely execut­ing foreign dishes; but over the past few years, chefs like Conti have watched the climate be­come much more inviting to entry as farmers become more willing to think outside the box. “I get whole lambs, goats, and suckling pigs with no problem from Del Monte Meat Com­pany in San Francisco,” he says. “They’re instru­mental in the braises, sauces, roasts and stews of Sardinian cuisine.”

Terje remarks that Northern Italy is actu­ally a lot like California. He gets the cardoons, monk’s beard, cabbages and chard that are prevalent in Piedmontese cooking from his preferred vegetable farmer, Mariquita Farms in Watsonville, CA.

HYPER-REGIONAL, continued from Previous Page

Executive Chef Sebastien Archambault prepares dinner in RH at the Andaz’s open kitchen.

When sourcing meats, however, Terje often has to make special requests. “It took me awhile to find pasteurized

AGNOLOTTI DAL PLIN

INGREDIENTS [dough] 3 cups Italian “00” flour or all-purpose flour 5 whole large eggs, plus 5 egg yolks

INGREDIENTS [filling] 2 T butter 1 garlic clove, sliced 2 lb roasted veal shoulder or breast, chopped in food processor 2 cups savoy cabbage, cut into 1-inch pieces 1/2 cup reduced veal or beef broth 1 1/2 cup freshly grated Parmigiano-Reggiano freshly grated nutmeg, to taste salt and freshly ground black pepper 1 cup reduced veal broth (ristretto di vitello) 2 T butter

METHOD To make the dough: Sift together and then mound 3 cups of the flour in the center of a large wooden cutting board. Make a well in the middle of the flour and add the eggs. Using a fork, beat to­gether the eggs and begin to incorporate the flour, starting with the inner rim of the well.

As you expand the well, keep pushing the flour up from the base of the mound to retain the well shape. The dough will come to­gether when half of the flour is incorporated.

Start kneading the dough with both hands, using the palms of your hands. Knead for about 15 minutes, adding any of the remaining flour if necessary to create a cohesive mass. Once you have a co­hesive mass, remove the dough from the board and scrape up and

discard any leftover bits. Lightly reflour the board and continue kneading for 6 more minutes. The dough should be elastic. Cover the dough in plastic or a moist towel and allow to rest for 30 min­utes at room temperature.

In a 12-inch saucepan, add 1 tablespoon butter over high heat until hot but not smoking. Add the garlic, and cook, about 5 minutes. Add the veal, and cook for about 7 to 8 minutes. Season with salt and pepper, to taste.

Chef Staffan Terje Perbacco — San Francisco, CA

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LA RATATOUILLE BORGHETTI

[Serves 4]

INGREDIENTS 1 zucchini, sliced in 1/2 inch rounds 1 eggplant, cut into 1/2 inch cubes 5 tomatoes, cut into cubes (or 1 can crushed tomatoes) 1 small onion, diced 2 cloves garlic, minced 2 sprigs fresh thyme, stems removed 1 sprig fresh rosemary, stem removed, minced 1/4 cup fresh basil leaves, minced 2 T olive oil, or as much as needed 2 t salt, or to taste 1/2 t fresh cracked pepper, or to taste Parmesan cheese, shredded

METHOD Warm the olive oil in a 12-inch skillet over medium heat. Add the eggplant and zucchini and sauté for 2-3 minutes. Add the onion, garlic and herbs (and more olive oil if needed) and sauté till onions are translucent, about 4 minutes.

Transfer to a medium size saucepan and add the tomatoes and sea­son with salt and pepper. Reduce heat to low, cover with lid and let the stew simmer for 20 minutes. Serve over a bed of couscous and sprinkle with Parmesan cheese.

INGREDIENTS [Saffron Couscous] 2 cups water 2 cups couscous

METHOD Bring water and saffron to a boil. Add couscous and stir. Cover and remove from heat, till the pasta absorbs the liquid. Fluff with a fork before serving.

ASSEMBLY Serve ratatouille over saffron couscous with your favorite sausage of choice.

Owner Dorothée Mitrani-Bell La Note

Berkeley, CA *Please see continued recipe online Pinch of saffron

HYPER-REGIONAL, continued from Previous Page

Transform Your Menu with Flavors from Around the World

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A few of our exotic flavor discoveries... • The vinegary-sweet crunch of Basque Guindilla peppers

• Clean, mild flavor and tender texture of Spanish Cantabrian Boquerones (white anchovies)

• Aged D.O. Jerez Sherry Vinegar — The sweeter variety of the “Macetilla” grapes gives this extra tart sherry vinegar a uniquely soft, slightly sweet flavor and richer texture.

• French Pimente d’Esplette • Smoked Arbequina Olive Oil

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“You can get habanero peppers at Trader Joe’s now,” says Centina. “They were a struggle to find when I first moved here in 1979.”

When to import Despite the relative ease of finding the

right seasonal vegetables and meats on the West Coast, chefs of hyper-regional cuisine still find it necessary to import certain in­gredients that lend crucial flavor and au­thenticity to their respective cuisines.

Conti gets olive oil, cured mullet, Bot­targa, tuna heart, anise and Saba directly from Sardinia. “Even importing has gotten easier,” says Conti. “It used to take me a week to get a package from Sardinia. Now it takes two days.”

Archambault hasn’t had difficulty with much, except finding French cèpes and truffles that measure up to his Périgordine standard. He also imports some blue cheeses, notably the Cabécou, a soft goat cheese rolled in chestnuts, plum alcohol, and black pepper, which is indigenous to his homeland.

“Americans are so curious to experi­ence new things,” says Archambault. “We’ve really started a dialogue about the cuisine at RH the likes of which I’ve never wit­nessed elsewhere.” As Archambault and many other chefs have noticed, the public is ready to experience new, undiscovered regions of the world through cuisine, and chefs are digging into the past to come up with something new. Now may be a better time than any to take a walk down memory lane.

Carolyn Alburger has enjoyed creating in the kitchen since age nine, when she encountered the Frugal Gourmet and a very special peach custard crumb pie in the Better Homes and Gardens Cookbook. A gradu­ate of Tante Marie’s Profes­sional Culinary Program, her

work has been printed in outlets as diverse as Daily Candy, Elle a Table, the San Francisco Chronicle and the MintLife blog. Follow her on Twitter at @CarolynAlburger.

YUCATAN PAPADZULES WITH PUMPKIN SEED SAUCE

[Serves 6]

INGREDIENTS [Pumpkin seed sauce, Pipián] 1/2 gallon water 10 oz ground, toasted, hulled pumpkin seeds 1/2 bunch epazote 1 T salt

METHOD Bring water to a boil and add ground pumpkin seeds, epazote and salt. Simmer over medium heat for 15 minutes. You’ll know it’s done when you pinch a small quantity between two fingers, and it smears smoothly and is not grainy.

Liquefy in a blender or with a hand-held im­mersion blender. Return to medium heat and simmer until it reduces to the consistency of a mole (if you dip a tortilla in it, it coats the tor­tilla). Cover and keep warm.

INGREDIENTS [Filling and topping] 12 eggs hardboiled, chopped 1 cup salsa de tomate (recipe follows) 1 cup sofrito (recipe follows)

INGREDIENTS [Salsa de tomate] 1/2 gallon water 4 medium salad tomatoes, about 1 pound 2 cloves garlic 1 medium white onion, quartered 1 t salt 3 T vegetable oil

METHOD Fill a large pot with the water and add the tomatoes, garlic, onion and salt. Bring to a boil for about 30 minutes or until the tomatoes easily break apart.

Liquefy in a blender with water until you get a smooth puree. Do in batches if you have a small blender. The sauce will be watery.

Heat oil in a pan. Add puree and let it cook over medium heat until it thickens somewhat, about 15 minutes. It should still pour easily, only slightly coating a spoon. Adjust salt.

INGREDIENTS [Sofrito] 10 medium plum tomatoes

1 chile habanero 3 sprigs cilantro, chopped 1/2 t salt

METHOD Roast tomatoes and the chile on a comal (griddle) or pan low to medium heat until they are soft to the touch and charred on the out­side. If the heat is too high, the tomatoes will not cook through. Let rest and cool. Add all in­gredients to a blender or food processor. Pulse into small chunks.

Chef Gilberto Cetina Chichen Itza Restaurant — Los Angeles, CA

*Please see continued recipe online

veal,” he says, “and the pigs are much larger in Italy, so it’s sometimes a challenge to find something that meas­ures up to the Italian style.” Terje stresses the impor­tance of developing a great relationship with local farmers so that you can work with them to get the prod­uct that’s most comparable to the authentic ingredient.

Archambault has had a similar experience. “I can find almost everything here that I need,” he says, “but it

did take a little time to find the fresh duck and free-range chickens that match the flavor and size of the ones we get in Périgord.” He has relied heavily on the com­munity of French chefs in Los Angeles to point him to­ward the most appropriate farmers and purveyors.

Chef Cetina, who has been cooking in Los Angeles for the past seven years, acknowledges that sourcing has become a lot easier as the world has become smaller.

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Above: Sapphire Laguna’s outdoor patio; Below: Sapphire Laguna’s Baked Indian Salmon with Tomato-Cucumber Couscous Salad, Madras Yogurt (recipe online)

BALLEENsandiego Crab Cake with Mango-Poblano Salad & Harissa Aioli (recipe online)

Specialty Spice Blends Melissa Matarese

The days of heavy buerre blancs and traditional cream sauces are long gone for modern cuisine. Rather, trendsetting culinary leaders are bringing exotic flavors and spices to familiar foods, pushing the cutting edge of culinary art. Some chefs pay homage to a style of cooking that has been in practice for thousands of years; others have chosen to create untraditional amalgamations for their gastronomically curious clientele.

We live in a time where hummus and pita have be­come commonplace – a place where Pan-Asian seems al­most overdone. Exotic foods that were once considered specialty items are now dominating mainstream con­sumption. To continuously spark interest, chefs are draw­ing upon creativity and talent to surprise and dazzle, as expectations for flavorful cooking are set high.

Interest in Indian cuisine has driven experimentation with spices such as saffron, cardamom, turmeric and curry. Africa boasts harissa, Egypt lays claim to ras el hanout and the Middle East produces za’atar. While cook­ing with these spices is relatively simple, the challenge lies in fully understanding the power of each flavor and where and how to purchase these sometimes obscure in­gredients.

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Bringing travels home: A palate approach As our country tries to define its own cuisine amongst

the world’s strongest players, more and more Americans are traveling abroad. Southern Asia has seen the world’s greatest influx of tourism, naturally leading to the emer­gence of flavor trends originating in India, Thailand, Vietnam and Indonesia. Trips to Sub-Saharan Africa and Latin America are also shaping the palates of the diner and inspiring the chef.

Sailing the world while working on private yachts, Chef Megan Reichman at BALEENsandiego reflects upon her culinary expeditions abroad. Her Crab Cake with Harissa Aioli has a North African flair imparted by the spices. It is paired with a mango-poblano salad to give the dish a crunchy texture with clean citrus flavors, balancing out the buttery crab and the heat in the aioli. Her execu­tion of harissa’s versatility is evident in the cioppino, bringing a slight Provençal note to the California fish stew. Harissa is added to the cioppino base that is mixed with fish stock, clam juice and white wine, then simmered with fresh fish and shellfish. Rather than settle for red pepper flakes, harissa brings a well-rounded flavor profile to the dish.

Chef Megan also brings South-of-the-Border, Latin inspiration to the table: grilled long line swordfish with a

Spicing it up with exotic seasonings

ZA’ATAR SWEET POTATOES WITH GOAT CHEESE & HONEY

[Serves 8-10]

INGREDIENTS 4 garnet yams or sweet potatoes 3 cups fresh orange juice (pulp free) 3 cinnamon sticks 1/2 t thyme 1 1/2 cups brown sugar 3 cups water 1 lb goat cheese 1 cup clover honey 1/4 cup dried harissa chili powder 1/4 cup dried za’atar (sesame seed, dried thyme and sumac) 1/4 cup cornstarch Salt and pepper Canola oil for frying

METHOD Heat oven to 350˚F. Peel and cut yams or potatoes in 1-inch cubes (keep in as uni­form size as possible). Place cut potatoes in large casserole dish, cover with orange juice, cinnamon sticks, thyme, brown sugar

and water (enough to cover potatoes com­pletely); add a generous amount of salt and pepper; then cover and place in oven for approximately 40-50 minutes or until pota­toes are fork tender but not overcooked.

Allow potatoes to cool in liquid. Remove potatoes from liquid onto paper towels; dry well.

Lightly coat potatoes with cornstarch. Turn stove on low to medium setting, add and heat oil, add potatoes to oil and fry until golden brown.

Remove potatoes onto paper towels. In a bowl, season potatoes with salt, pepper, za’atar and chili powder. Place on serving platter, sprinkle with goat cheese and drizzle with honey. Serve immediately.

Chef Tomas Sazo Medjool Restaurant and Lounge

San Francisco, CA

smoked tuna is prepared with a tropical, plantain hash, long beans, and chimichurri. The plate is a meeting of flavors – old citrus, garlic, fresh lime and cilantro, smoky tuna, sizzle of roasted jalapeno, buttery plantains, and the richness of grilled swordfish. Here, innovation is seen at its best: the smoky, oiliness of the tuna replaces the need for bacon or brisket in the hash. The starchy, buttery and slightly-sweet plantain works well in place of ordinary po­tatoes.

At Medjool in San Francisco, Chef Tomas Sazo’s truly global fusion menu is broken down by region: North African, Southern European, and Middle Eastern. His spice mixtures, which are local to each region, enhance fresh California produce. Cooking in California provides flexibility, where ingredients are more readily available than might be found in the remote regions where the cui­sine evolved.

Given the diversity of flavor profiles showcased on Medjool’s menu, Chef Tomas refines his dishes through trial and error. For instance, the bread and butter substi­tute is pita and a cheese-like mix of yogurt, za’atar, and a Mediterranean spice blend of thyme, sumac and sesame; evolving over time to its present state. The exotic spice ras el hanout, known as the spice of the kings in Egypt, is the spice of the house. It is a mixture of cardamom, cin­namon, caraway, and cumin, a robust, aromatic stimula-

Flying Pans: Two Chefs, One World Ron Oliver, Bernard Guillas Cabin Fever Press

One of the finest cookbooks re­leased in years, Flying Pans combines large format photog­raphy and finely tuned recipes with intriguing back stories and travel notes, making it a worthy addition to even the most exten­sive cookbook collections. Full-page photos accompany every recipe in the book, which are inspired from the globe-trotting journeys of chefs, Ron Oliver and Bernard Guillas of the Marine Room in La Jolla. The recipes feature flavor profiles from over 40 different countries; Ranging from Garam Masala Squid Salad from India and Tamarind Peach Glazed Shrimp from Peru, to Hoisin Macadamia Crusted Wahoo from Bali and Juniper Spiced Duck Leg Confit from Austria, even the most accom­plished chefs will find this book overwhelmingly inspirational.

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SPICE, continued from Previous Page

tion. This blend is used to accent all kinds of dishes from lamb tagines to purees.

At Medjool, the two popular dishes, yams and chicken, are far from the safe and standard menu choices. Sweet garnet yams are marinated in orange juice, brown sugar, cinnamon, thyme and braised in the oven, finished in a toss of za’atar and fried harissa with honey and goat cheese atop. The chicken is skewered and marinated in a honey lemon mixture of cayenne, paprika and toasted cumin. The finishing sauce is com­prised of pomegranate, molasses, harissa powder, toasted peanuts, cilantro and orange rind, all imparting brilliant aromatics and a contrast of sweet and spice.

Chef Todd Allison of Checkers Downtown in Los An­geles knows that his clients are looking for more than just meat and potatoes. He, too, uses a mix and match style of cooking, best exemplified by his preparation of harissa grilled halibut. The fish sits in a saffron and smoked tomato broth, comprised of Piri Piri chile peppers that are mixed with tomatoes and paprika, softened with olive

HARISSA RUBBED HALIBUT

[Serves 5]

INGREDIENTS [Leeks] 10 stalks of leeks, cleaned and cut into 1/2­inch rings 2 cloves of garlic, finely chopped 1/4 pound butter 1/2 cup white cooking wine 1 cup heavy cream

METHOD Sauté leeks and garlic in butter, deglaze with white wine. Add cream and simmer until leeks are tender.

INGREDIENTS Oil, as needed 5 bulbs large fennel, julienned 1 cup chicken stock

METHOD Heat a sauté pan; add cooking oil and sauté fennel until golden brown.

Add stock and simmer until fennel is tender. Reserve.

INGREDIENTS 15 fingerling potatoes Salt and pepper to taste

METHOD

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oil, accompanied by heirloom bean salad. For the final presentation, after grilling, the fish lies atop creamed leeks that help cut through the spice of the harissa, a North African hot chile imported from Morocco.

The purist approach Some chefs are strong proponents of the philosophy

that to achieve the best results from ingredients, one should prepare them with techniques that are indige­nous to the area and pair their restaurant’s menu offer­ings with other ingredients that are classic to that style of cuisine. Chef Michael Fiorelli of Mar’sel at Terranea Resort steers clear of fusion cuisine, reverently following the mantra that ingredients taste best together when grown together. By studying an area, its cuisine, and cooking techniques of the region, he utilizes local ingre­dients in the same style to add a modern twist to an an­cient preparation.

Sustainable and local, his Lebanese-style lamb supports the local community. Herbs and spices are

Place on a sheet tray and roast in the oven at 400°F for 10 to 15 minutes. Let cool, then cut in half length-wise.

INGREDIENTS [Smoked tomato broth] 5 cloves of garlic, chopped 1 Spanish onion, chopped 2 ribs celery, chopped 1 fennel bulb, chopped 2 stalks leeks, chopped 2 cups white wine 1 large pinch saffron 5 smoked tomatoes (recipe follows) 5 roughly chopped Roma tomatoes 1 quart chicken stock 1 sprig fresh thyme 2 bay leaves Handful fresh basil

METHOD In large sauce pot sauté garlic, onion, celery, fennel, leeks for roughly 5 minutes. Deglaze with wine and add saffron. Add tomatoes and chicken stock, bring to a simmer, add fresh herbs and cook for 40 minutes. Puree

PHOTO BY LINDA MENSINGA

INGREDIENTS [Smoked tomatoes] 5 Roma tomatoes

METHOD Soak hickory wood chips in water about 5 minutes. Drain. Place in hotel pan. Use crème brûlée torch to turn chips into coals. Place tomatoes in perfo­rated hotel pan above hick­ory coals and let smoke about 5 minutes.

Chef Todd Allison Checkers Downtown

Los Angeles, CA

obtained from Lebanese families living in rural Cali­fornia towns, growing up grinding their own spices. The lamb is served in its most sustainable form, utiliz­ing multiple cuts of meat including the tongue, shoul­der and loin. The herb-crusted lamb and lamb sausage is served in a hearty bean stew with sumac yo­gurt and ras el hanout.

Chef Azmin Ghahreman of Sapphire Laguna, La­guna Beach, also strives to maintain the authenticity of each regionally focused dish. He draws upon his execu­tive chef experiences in Turkey, Malaysia, Singapore and the South Pacific, believing strongly in his motto that “when you travel through the world’s markets with your palate, you don’t need a passport.” He respects all ingredients and all cuisines, regularly encouraging peo­ple to find the beauty in seasoning with spices rather than the sauces which are more commonly used to fla­vor dishes. Two signature dishes at Sapphire Laguna are the Baked Indian Spiced Salmon and Ras el Hanout Cod on Brioche.

HERB CRUSTED COLORADO LAMB LOIN, BRAISED SHOULDER, LAMB, SHELL BEAN CASSOULET

INGREDIENTS [Loin] 2 6-oz lamb loins Kosher salt & freshly ground black pepper 2 T olive oil

METHOD Season loin liberally with salt and pepper. Heat oil in a medium hot, heavy bottomed sauté pan. Roast on all sides until deep brown. Finish in oven. Remove when an in­stant read thermometer inserted in the cen­ter reads 125 °. Allow to rest for 10 minutes.

INGREDIENTS [cassoulet] 1/4 cup ground lamb sausage 2 T olive oil 1 T minced garlic 3 T minced shallots 1/3 cup dry cannellini beans, soaked in water overnight 1/3 cup dry cranberry beans, soaked in water overnight 1 bay leaf 2 sprigs thyme 2 cups lamb stock (use the braising liquid from the shoulder, see below) 3 T butter 2 T parsley, minced 2 T za'atar

A healthy punch Spices are an excellent way to appease health con­

scious individuals who are not looking to sacrifice flavor. Quality spices have such defined and bold flavors that it takes minimal effort to create a fantastic dish. However, “spices should dance on your palate without stepping on each other’s toes,” says Chef Azmin. Cutting out heavy creams, butters and oils allows the chef to maintain great flavor while eliminating calories from fat. Flavors can be

tweaked by toasting, sautéing or mixing with other spices, creating unique flavor profiles that can bring variety to any menu.

Melissa Matarese enjoys spicy and bold flavors, her favorites being Latin American or South East Asian inspired fare.

She is based out of New York City, writing about the New York Dining Scene on her Blog: L’Epicurien of View From the Front Row.

METHOD Render sausage in olive oil until golden brown. Add garlic and shallots and cook until soft and translucent. Add beans, bay leaf and thyme and stir to incorporate. Pour in lamb stock just to cover. Simmer for about 30-45 minutes and check for done-ness. If liquid drops below beans, add just a touch more stock or water to cover. Remove thyme and bay leaf. Finish with butter, parsley. Add za'atar, salt and pepper to taste.

INGREDIENTS [Sumac yogurt] 1/4 cup Greek yogurt 1 1/2 t sumac Whisk together until fully incorporated. Set aside.

INGREDIENTS [Crust] 2 T minced basil 2 T minced parsley 2 T olive oil

PHOTO BY LINDA MENSINGA

METHOD Combine herbs and olive oil in the food processor and blend until a green paste forms. Add bread crumbs and mix until fully incorporated and bright green.

INGREDIENTS [Lamb loin glaze] 2 T Dijon mustard 2 T brown sugar

METHOD Mix and glaze lamb loin.

Chef Michael Fiorelli Mar'sel at Terranea Resort Rancho Palos Verdes, CA

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*Please see continued recipe online salt & pepper 1/2 cup Japanese breadcrumbs *Please see continued recipe onlineToss potatoes in olive oil, salt and pepper. and strain through a fine sieve.

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BADAM JAAM [Serves 6]

INGREDIENTS

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2 cups plain yogurt 6-8 garlic cloves, peeled and chopped 2 T lemon juice 1/2 medium onion, peeled and chopped 10 medium garlic cloves, peeled and 2 t paprika finely minced 1 t salt 1/2 t salt 4 medium tomatoes, coarsely chopped 1/4 cup chopped fresh cilantro, divided and pureed in a food processor 2 large globe eggplants, cut into 3/4-inch 1 1/2 t powdered cumin seeds, toasted thick slices 1 1/2 t black salt powder 1 1/2 t salt 1 1/2 t chili flakes 1 T oil 1 1/2 t mango powder 1 inch piece ginger, peeled and chopped

METHOD Hang yogurt in a muslin cloth over the sink and let the whey drip out for about two hours. Transfer the thickened yogurt to a bowl and add lemon juice, garlic, 1/2 t salt and half of the cilantro. Mix thoroughly and set aside.

Executive Chef/Owner Lachu Moorjani Ajanta — Berkeley, CA

*Please see continued recipe online

Nataraja Shiva statue at Dosa Dosa’s Mangolorean Prawn Masala (recipe online)

Contemporary Indian Cuisine Beyond Naan and Curry

Leena Trivedi-Grenier

A plate with an unfamiliar blackened disc makes its way to the table. It looks almost charred on the outside, with a bright orange interior. The fork gently breaks through the slightly crisp exterior to find the soft, succu­lent center; the first bite tastes smoky and meaty like lamb, except the creamy morsel melts in your mouth like a triple crème cheese. The waiter passes by and whispers the words “vegetarian foie gras”; and that is when you know – this is not your average Indian restaurant.

The “vegetarian foie gras” is actually tandoori porto­bello mushrooms served with a yogurt, cashew and tamarind sauce from Lachu Moorjani’s restaurant, Ajanta, in Berkeley. Moorjani is among a handful of chefs from across the country, focusing on serving a fashionable, re­fined version of Indian fare.

These pioneering chefs are committed to showing people that Indian food can be more than just naan and butter chicken. A dish could be as straightforward as up­dating an Indian classic, such as the lamb entrée, rogan josh, or as complicated as using Indian flavors and ingre­dients in a French recipe like crème brûlée.

In Moorjani’s case, his tandoori portobello mush­room combines a traditional Indian technique of mari­nating food in tandoori paste, then cooking the dish in

vegetarian dish that could satisfy even a carnivore’s appetite.

Indian Food 101 Ajanta’s form of inventive and sophisticated fare has

only recently entered the mainstream of ethnic dining, leaving rice and curry on most Americans’ minds when choosing Indian cuisine. Although these dishes may be two of the more common components associated with In­dian cooking, in reality the region’s cuisine is quite com­plex. The diverse cultures within the country, exemplified by the predominantly Muslim and Hindu areas, are not the only contributors that help define the Indian cuisine of today. The country’s daily eats boast origins from sev­eral other ethnic and religious influences, such as Afghan and Persian in the North, Southeast Asian and African in the South and British throughout the region.

Indian chefs tend to blend their own specialty spice mixes that are frequently used in recipes, such as curry powder or garam masala. Many Indian families have their own family masalas, or spice blends, especially when it comes to chai, or Indian tea. A cooking method partic­ular to Indian cuisine is blooming spices in hot oil before cooking, which helps intensify their flavors.

Other common Indian ingredients include rice, flat breads cooked on a griddle or in a tandoor oven, and

There are many reasons that Indian food is seeing a resurgence in interest. For one, the American palate con­tinues to grow more varied as increasing numbers of im­migrants move into the country, diversifying the population and creating a desire for trying new flavors.

Anjan Mitra, owner of Dosa restaurant in San Fran­cisco, also feels there is a large population of first genera­tion Indian Americans who grew up eating traditional Indian food, and, consequently, many of these adults have become interested in exploring a more modern ver­sion of their childhood cuisine.

Updating the Classics: Curry 2.0 At Neela’s in Napa, Chef and Owner Neela Paniz’s

updated version of the traditional dish, mutter paneer, is a great example of how chefs throughout the West Coast

are putting a contemporary spin on classic Indian fare. Why did she decide to develop a new dish instead of cre­ating a conventional course that would be familiar to cus­tomers? Her mutter paneer was a creative act of efficiency.

While making paneer for sandwiches at a tea party, Chef Paniz ran out of time, so she decided at the last minute to turn the paneer into a meatloaf. She stirred in the traditional mutter paneer ingredients (tomatoes, onions, peas), then added eggs and cream, topping the dish with breadcrumbs before baking. She cut the paneer loaf into slices, garnishing each serving with homemade tomato chutney, thus creating her popular dish, mutter paneer deconstructed. Chef Paniz also puts an updated twist on her desserts, serving the traditional Indian rice pudding, kheer, with a hint of Grand Marnier to give it a sophisticated turn.

Other chefs have chosen to renew time-honored In­dian dishes by swapping in locally sourced ingredients that are organic and sustainable whenever possible. For instance Ajanta, opened since 1993, went completely or­ganic three months ago. Although this is a recent devel­opment, Chef Lachu has been creating green-friendly variations on tandoori chicken for years. He substitutes ordinary chicken with sustainable scallops, sourced di­rectly from Monterey Fish Market in Berkeley; creating a dish that is incredibly simple: moist and lightly charred, meaty and intensely flavorful. His spices and Indian in­gredients are also locally sourced from Vik’s Distributors of Berkeley, California.

Indian ingredients in non-Indian recipes Other ways chefs have been creating fine Indian din-

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ing is by substituting Indian ingredients in non-Indian legumes such as lentils and chickpeas for protein. Many sea-a tandoor oven, with a popular Bay Area ingredient, sonal fruits and vegetables are preserved into chutneys, pick- Sakoon’s modern bar attracts foodies and Mountain View’s recipes and with non-Indian cooking methods. Chef the portobello mushroom. By fusing a foreign prepara­les and sauces that are served as condiments with the meal. professional crowd alike. Kuldeep Singh of Origin India in Las Vegas has mastered tion with a local product, Moorjani was able to create a

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Popular Indian Spices Ground Ginger . . . . . . . .Adrak Asafoetida powder . . . . .Hing Cumin seeds . . . . . . . . . .Jeera Coriander seeds . . . . . . .Dhania Green Cardamom . . . . . .Eliachi Black Mustard seed . . . .Rai Cinnamon . . . . . . . . . . . .Taj Tumeric power . . . . . . . .Haldi Hot Spice Mix . . . . . . . . .Garam Masala Dried Fenugreek . . . . . . .Methi Dried Mango powder . . .Amchur Black Pepper . . . . . . . . .Kala Mirchi

INDIAN, continued from Previous Page

this form of cooking. His Moulard duck confit with but­ter-poached potatoes is made with traditional French techniques, but the duck is enhanced with Indian flavors like ginger, garlic, cinnamon and orange zest, while the potatoes get a treatment of the sweet and sour kumquat marmalade similar to chutney.

The creativity of these restaurants extends beyond the kitchen all the way to the bar. Several establishments

TANDOORI CHICKEN

INGREDIENTS 4 organic chicken legs, leg 2 T red chili powder and thigh combo 1 T garam masala spice mix 4 T ginger and garlic paste 1 cup vegetable oil salt, to taste 4 metal skewers, (for tandoor 2 T lemon juice oven) 2 cups yogurt

METHOD Cut and clean the chicken legs, trimming all excess fat and re­move skin. Prick the skin and flesh of the chicken with a fork, cre­ating holes to allow the marinades to soak in. Make the first marinade with the ginger and garlic paste, pinch of salt and lemon juice. Add the chicken, cover and chill for one hour. Create a sec­ond marinade that consists of yogurt, red chili powder, garam masala, oil and pinch of salt (or slightly more to taste). Remove the chicken from the first marinade and add it to the second. Cover and refrigerate for at least two hours.

If you have a tandoor oven: Skewer the chicken through the back of each leg and put it inside the tandoor oven, skewer-side down. Cook for approximately 15­20 minutes or until the thickest part of the chicken reads 160 de­grees.

If you don’t have a tandoor oven: Repeat the same prep and marinade steps as above. Preheat a conventional oven to 375˚F. Place the chicken legs onto a cookie sheet that has been lightly oiled (so the chicken doesn’t stick).

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have created unique cocktail menus inspired by Indian flavors. Origin India mixologist, Alyssa Anderson, re­cently created a Gulab-tini, a fusion of the popular cock­tail the martini and the Indian dessert gulab jamun, which is made of fried dumplings soaked in rose water syrup.

At San Francisco’s Dosa, their Spice-Route cocktails are driven by the flavor of Indian seasonings. The Bloody Mary Curry is a popular drink, combining the traditional spicy tomato cocktail with the complex flavors of curry leaves, green chiles, and Soju, a Korean distilled alcoholic beverage made from rice.

Indian Cuisine meets variety of dining preferences

The bold flavors and spices of Indian cuisine can be daunting to a cautious eater. One of the ways that upscale Indian restaurants have overcome this roadblock is by presenting their food in a menu style familiar to the con­sumer. Dosa, which focuses on Southern Indian cuisine, does a great job of this in their weekly brunch menu. By using a format the American consumer enjoys – brunch – owner Mitra is able to expose customers to a wide range

When the oven reaches 375˚F, place the chicken legs on the cookie sheet and into the oven. Cook for approximately 15-20 minutes or until the thickest part of the chicken reads 160˚F.

The chicken goes great paired with a simple green salad or your favorite grilled or sautéed vegetable.

Executive Chef Kuldeep Singh Origin India — Las Vegas, NV

of Southern Indian breakfast, lunch and snack cuisine including Indian omelets, dosas and chaats (fried snacks) they might otherwise have missed.

Executive Chef and owner Sachin Chopra of Sakoon in Mountain View, California, has also tried packaging his blend of traditional and contemporary flavors in a form familiar to customers – a tasting menu. He offers small portions of several dishes from the restaurant’s extensive selection of reinvented recipes. Highlights from Sakoon’s tasting menu include their av­ocado jhalmuri aloo, or mashed potato salad with avo­cado and dried mango vinaigrette, and their lime and coconut dessert soup, served with caramelized lychee and almond brittle.

DIY upscale Indian For chefs looking to experiment with Indian flavors,

Chef Paniz suggests really exploring each spice on its own to understand how it works and what it adds to a dish. Mitra recommends using ginger, garlic, cumin, ground coriander seeds and turmeric as a basic masala, adjusting the amount you use based on your tolerance of spices.

Whether you wish to update a classic Indian dish, use Indian ingredients in a non-Indian recipe or serve Indian cuisine influenced by a variety in dining experi­ences, there is a demand and market for experimenting with Indian cuisine and flavors. Today, the Number One condiment in the United States is salsa, a staple Latin American recipe; it’s only a matter of time before chut­ney joins that list.

Leena Trivedi-Grenier is a professional food writer from the San Francisco Bay Area. She is a graduate of The University of Ade­laide/Le Cordon Bleu Masters in Gastronomy program, where she researched U.S. food blog user behavior. Her writing has appeared in The Business of Food: Encyclopedia of the Food and Drink Industry, and will ap­

pear in upcoming titles from Greenwood Press including Icons of American Cooking and Food Culture of the World En­cyclopedia. She is also the creator of Leena Eats This Blog (www.leenaeats.com/blog). Her life will never be the same after Moorjani’s tandoori mushroom.

SHRIMP & POTATO BUNDLES A variation on the Samosas, this recipe makes for a wonderful plated first course.

Serve it on a bed of “Mango Muraba” with contrasting spicy chutney. The addition of

mango pickle to the filling adds another dimension to the taste. The quantity used can

be adjusted to personal taste. To make the process easier, the wrappers can be made

ahead of time and frozen.

INGREDIENTS [Wrappers] 2 1/2 cups flour 2/3 to 1 cup water 1 teaspoon salt 1/3 cup oil

INGREDIENTS [Shrimp and Potato filling] 10 large shrimp, peeled, cleaned and cut into 4 to 5 pieces each 2 small red rose potatoes, peeled, diced and cooked 1 small red onion, finely minced 1 inch piece of ginger, peeled and cut juli­enned 1 T chopped cilantro 3-4 T of chopped prepared mango pickle (preferably Patak’s, use either the hot or the medium) 1/2 t salt 1/3 cup flour 2-3 T water 1 large leek, sliced into 10-14 long thin strips for tying, blanched and cooled Vegetable oil for frying

METHOD To make the wrappers, sift two cups of flour and salt together into mixing bowl. Add the water, 1/3 of a cup at a time, mixing with your fingers, into soft pliable dough. Cover and set aside for about 15 minutes.

Executive Chef and Owner Neela Paniz Neela’s 39

Napa, CA

*Please see continued recipe online

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The MenuFavorite Recipes

The Menu

TOFU TWO WAYS: BLACK TRUFFLE TERRINE TOFU WITH YELLOW BELL PEPPER, FERMENTED EGG YOLK SAUCE, TOMATO TOFU TERRINE WITH ASPARAGUS VELOUTÉ [Serves 8]

INGREDIENTS [Black truffle tofu terrine]

METHOD Put all the ingredients in the food processor to mix and mash well. Pour the mixture into 7x4x4 stainless mold and cover with plastic film. Set the mold into steamer to steam for 5 minutes.

Set the steamed black truffle tofu into the iced water for 30 minutes, then set in the refrigerator for 2 hours or until the tofu is firm. Unmold the black truffle terrine and slice to serve.

INGREDIENTS [Tomato tofu terrine]

METHOD Put all the ingredients in the food processor to mix and mash well. Pour the mixture into 7x4x4 stainless mold and cover with plastic film. Set the mold into steamer to steam for 5 minutes.

Set the steamed tomato tofu into the iced water for 30 minutes, then set in the refrigerator for 2 hours or until the tofu firms. Unmold the tomato tofu terrine and slice to serve.

Executive Chef Sunrise Yu TMSK Restaurant — Xintiandi, Shanghai, China

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Favorite RecipesFavorite Recipes

[Serves 4-6]

INGREDIENTS [Mushrooms] 4 portobello mushrooms 1/4 cup oil 2 T lemon juice 1 T ginger, finely minced 1 t paprika 1 t salt 1/2 t ground clove powder, toasted 1/2 t ground cinnamon powder, toasted 1/2 t ground cardamom powder, toasted

METHOD Remove stems from mushrooms and slice the caps in 1/2 inch thick strips, about 4-5 strips per mushroom.

Mix all the marinade ingredients in a large 4-6 quart bowl. Add mushroom strips and gently toss to coat, making sure they do not break. Marinate for 1-2 hours.

Grill the mushrooms in a grilling basket on a very hot barbecue about 2-3 min­utes on each side. Serve with Yogurt­Cashew-Tamarind Sauce.

INGREDIENTS [Yogurt-Cashew-Tamarind sauce] 1/4 cup plain yogurt 1 cup cashews, ground 1/4 cup tamarind concentrate 1 t sugar 1/4 t salt 1/2 t sugar

METHOD Thoroughly mix together all the ingredi­ents. Sauce can be stored for up to 4 days in the refrigerator.

Executive Chef/Owner Lachu Moorjani, Ajanta

Berkeley, CA

TANDOORI PORTOBELLO MUSHROOMS WITH YOGURT-CASHEW-TAMARIND SAUCE

SPAGHETTI SQUASH SALAD

INGREDIENTS 1 each spaghetti squash 2 oz sliced almonds, roasted 1/4 bunch of mint 1/4 cup sweet chili garlic sauce 1 oz of sesame oil 1 t ginger, chopped 1 t garlic, chopped 2 red peppers, cleaned and roasted Baby sprouts, for garnish

METHOD Preheat the oven to 350°F. Cut the spaghetti squash in half and put the cut side down in a baking tray with 1/8 inch of water on the bottom.

Roast the squash for about 40 minutes, until tender. Once the squash has cooled down, using a fork, take the squash strands out by working horizontally on the squash.

In a separate bowl, make the dressing by mixing sesame oil, chopped ginger, garlic, salt and pepper. Mix sliced mint, almonds and peppers into the squash strands.

Pour the dressing on top of the squash “noodles”; garnish with baby sprouts.

Executive Chef Sachin Chopra Sakoon

Mountain View, CA

18 oz silken tofu 1 egg

1 T gelatin powder 1/2 t salt 2 T fresh black truffle, chopped

18 oz silken tofu 1 egg 1 T gelatin

1/2 t salt 2 oz tomato puree

*Please see continued recipe online

BERKSHIRE RACK OF PORK WITH KUMQUATS & APPLE BUTTER [Serves 2]

INGREDIENTS [Pork belly] 2 oz pork belly, fresh not cured chicken stock, as needed 1 part brown sugar, 2 parts salt, enough to cover pork.

METHOD Braise pork belly covered with stock 1 1/2 to 3 hours in oven at 350°F until tender. Rub sugar and salt cure over pork and leave for 6 hours.

INGREDIENTS [Pork tenderloin] 2 6-ounce pork tenderloin 10 slices applewood smoked bacon

METHOD Wrap pork in bacon and sear. Then roast in 350°F oven 6 to 10 min­utes to medium.

INGREDIENTS [Apple butter]

METHOD Lightly dust apple with sugar. Roast in fat in sauté pan until it colors. Add shallots, garlic and verjus. Continue sautéing. Place in blender and blend. Add butter in knobs; blend slowly so it’s creamy and not greasy.

INGREDIENTS [Kumquats] 5-6 kumquats 1/2 cup simple syrup fresh sage leaves

METHOD Cut kumquats in half and remove seeds. Cook in syrup with sage 30 minutes. Be sure kumquats are submerged. Thyme and sage to garnish

Place apple butter on plate or copper serving bowl. Slice each ten­derloin into 3 sections. Serve as shown with pork belly on the side, kumquats drizzled over and herbs on top. Serve vegetables on the side.

Chef de Cuisine Anthony Zappola Craft — Los Angeles, CA

1 apple, peeled, seeded and quartered Sugar, as needed Duck fat or oil

1 shallot, peeled and thinly shaved 1 clove garlic, thinly shaved 1/4 cup white verjus 1/4 lb cold butter

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The MenuFavorite Recipes

The Menu

LOCAL HALIBUT CRUDO WITH CALIFORNIA TAPENADE & AVOCADO SALSA

INGREDIENTS Albacore tuna or local halibut 1/4 cup California olives, such as Kalamata, Sevillano, Taggiasca, chopped 1/2 cup California olive oil peppers, such as cayenne, Fresno or Corno di Capra 2 avocados 2 lemons Garlic Walnuts, cracked and hulled Parsley, chopped finely

METHOD Thinly slice albacore tuna or local halibut. It should be sashimi grade fish, sliced anywhere from 1/8 inch to 1/4 inch in thickness, according to preference. Season with just a touch of salt.

For tapenade, mix chopped California olives with buttery California olive oil, pickled peppers, preferably homegrown.

For avocado salsa, combine avocados with pureed lemon juice, several spoonfuls of olive oil, a few teaspoons of garlic, parsley.

Plate.

Executive Chef Sean Baker Gather Restaurant — Berkeley, CA

BEEF SHORT RIB WITH BORDELAISE CÈPE

INGREDIENTS [Beef bouillon] 1 part beef ribs 2 parts mineral water

METHOD Submerge rib in bouillon. Simmer for 12 hours and then chill in fridge. To cut, rib must be very cold. Cut rib depending on fat quantity and quality of individual ribs. Scrape bone.

INGREDIENTS [Bordelaise] 1 liter beef jus 50 grams celery 10 grams garlic 100 grams beef glaze 100 grams port 50 grams port reduction 150 grams red wine reduction 25 grams balsamic soy reduction 25 grams Kikkoman soy sauce 25 grams cognac 25 grams sugar 10 grams licorice extract

METHOD Infuse the Bordelaise base overnight. Add all of the ingredients together and boil.

ASSEMBLY Brush rib with flour on cooking sides. Sear quickly on all sides. Glaze with Bordelaise. Bake until hot com­pletely through. Reglaze.

Executive Chef Paul Pairet Mr & Mrs Bund — Shanghai, China

Favorite RecipesFavorite Recipes

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FISCALINI’S THREE CHEESE “GROWN UP” MACARONI [Serves 10-12]

INGREDIENTS 1 stick unsalted butter 1 cup panko breadcrumbs 1/3 cup all purpose flour 3 cups milk 3 cups heavy cream 1 lb coarsely grated Fiscalini Bandage Wrapped Cheddar Cheese 1/2 lb coarsely grated Fiscalini San Joaquin Gold Cheese 1/2 lb coarsely grated Fiscalini Lionza cheese 1/4 t cayenne pepper Salt and freshly ground pepper to taste 1 lb elbow macaroni, cooked al dente (add a bit of olive oil to the cooking water, to prevent sticking)

METHOD Preheat oven to 350°F. Lightly coat or spray inside of a 3 quart casserole baking dish with olive oil. Set aside.

Melt 1/4 stick butter in large saucepan. Add breadcrumbs and stir until thoroughly coated. Transfer breadcrumbs to bowl. Wipe out saucepan with paper towel, being careful not to burn fingers. Place back on low heat and melt remaining butter until it begins to bubble. Whisk in flour, stirring for about three minutes. In another saucepan, scald milk and cream; slowly pour into flour mixture, whisking until well blended. Continue whisking until sauce is smooth and begins to thicken (8-10 minutes). Remove from heat.

Mix three cheeses together with cayenne, salt and black pepper. Add about 3/4 of cheese mixture to sauce, stirring until cheese is melted. Add cooled macaroni to sauce. (Taste to check if seasoning is cor­rect.) Pour into prepared casserole: top with remaining cheese and breadcrumbs. Bake 30 minutes or until bubbling. (If top doesn’t turn golden brown, place under broiler and watch carefully to finish the crust.) Let casserole sit about 10 minutes, before serving.

Executive Chef Martin Courtman Chateau Souverain

Geyserville, CA

SPAGHETTI WITH ARTICHOKES AND BOTTARGA

[Serves 4 first course]

INGREDIENTS 4 baby artichokes 2 cloves garlic 4 T extra virgin olive oil 1 pinch salt 5 T dry white wine 3/4 lb spaghetti 6 t mullet Bottarga, (dry salted roe), grated

METHOD Clean and slice the artichokes. Cut the 2 garlic cloves in half and gently sauté them in 3 tablespoons of extra virgin olive oil until golden in color. Remove the garlic and sauté the artichokes for one minute. Add salt, white wine and let evaporate.

Lower the heat and cook the artichokes until fork tender. Remove pan from stovetop and add 3 teaspoons of bottarga and gently stir. In the meantime, bring a pot of salted water to a boil and cook the spaghetti

until al dente. Drain the pasta and add to the saucepan. Sprinkle the re­maining bottarga and the rest of the extra virgin olive oil and sauté for a few seconds until all the ingredients are incorporated. Serve in a hot bowl.

Chef Massimiliano Conti La Ciccia Restaurant

San Francisco, CA

The MenuFavorite Recipes

The Menu

INGREDIENTS [Lamb] 2 Australian lamb racks cut into chops Olive oil

INGREDIENTS [Egyptian Dukkah] 1/3 cup hazelnuts 1/3 cup blanched almonds 1/2 cup sesame seeds 2 T coriander seeds 2 T cumin seeds 2 t freshly ground black pepper 1 t flaked kosher sea salt Sumac to taste

METHOD Preheat grill. Preheat oven to 400°F. Spread the hazelnuts and almonds over a baking tray and cook in preheated oven for 3-4 minutes or until toasted. Rub the hazelnuts and almonds in a clean tea towel to remove as much skin as possible.

Place the toasted nuts in the bowl of a food processor and process until coarsely chopped. Transfer to a large bowl. Heat a medium frying pan over medium heat. Add the sesame seeds and cook, stirring, for 1-2 minutes or until golden. Add to the bowl with the nuts.

Place coriander seeds and cumin seeds in frying pan over medium heat, and cook, stirring fre­quently, for 1-2 min­utes or until aromatic and seeds begin to pop. Transfer seeds to a mortar and pestle. Pound until finely crushed (alternatively, use a coffee or spice grinder). Add the crushed spices, pep­per and salt to the hazelnut mixture and mix well.

Press into the lamb chops, and then sprinkle with sumac; rest for 30 minutes before cooking. Alternatively, serve Dukkah with some extra virgin olive oil and crusty bread.

INGREDIENTS [Spiced yogurt] 1 17.6 (500grams) tub of Greek-style yogurt 1 t ground cumin 1 t sumac

juice of 1 lemon salt and freshly cracked black pepper to taste

METHOD Combine all of the above ingredients to make spiced yogurt.

Stephen Edwards Courtesy of Australian Lamb

PANUCHOS [Serves 6-8]

INGREDIENTS 1 lb masa 1 t salt Frijoles colados (recipe follows) vegetable oil, as needed

INGREDIENTS [Toppings] green leaf lettuce, thinly sliced Sah kol de pavo (roasted turkey) (recipe follows) red onions, sliced and pickled tomatoes. sliced 1/2 avocado

METHOD Mix or knead salt into masa. Divide masa into 15 balls. As you work, keep the masa balls in a bowl covered with plastic wrap to keep the dough from drying out.

Line a tortilla press with a piece of plastic wrap. Put one ball of masa into the center of

the press, cover with another piece of plas­tic wrap (or wax paper). Press down on tortilla press until the tortilla is about 6 inches in diameter.

Carefully place a tor­tilla on a hot comal, griddle or skillet. Flip to cook on both sides. While still on the comal, press tortilla with a folded kitchen cloth, and it will puff up. Press around edges to make sure it puffs up all around. Remove from comal.

Carefully slit the top layer of the puffed up tortilla – an opening of 3 inches will do – and lift up all the way inside, creating a pocket. Do not tear or separate completely. Cool and repeat for each tortilla.

Lift the top of a cooled tortilla and smear a spoonful of frijoles colados inside the

pocket. If needed, use your fingers to spread the frijoles around the inside evenly. Repeat with each tortilla (panucho).

Add oil to frying pan about 1/4-inch deep and heat to 300-350°F. Drop in panucho and fry until golden, about 4-5 minutes. Do not turn over or bean paste could ooze out.

Remove and drain on paper towels. Repeat for all panuchos. Do just before serving.

Chef Gilberto Cetina Chichen Itza Restaurant — Los Angeles, CA

Favorite RecipesFavorite Recipes

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PR

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2010 — C

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44

*Please see continued recipe online

AUSTRALIAN LAMB CHOPS WITH EGYPTIAN DUKKAH CRUST, SERVED WITH SPICED YOGURT

Trends

Magazine

Early Spring 2010

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