Dachshund Owners Handbook

support@ourdds.org www.ourdds.org

Table of Contents

Introduction.......................................................1 Lucy...................................................................2 Intervertebral Disc Disease ...............................4 What Do I Look For? ........................................7 Questions and Answers.....................................8 Don’ts for Dachshunds....................................11 Massage Therapy ............................................13 Water Therapy.................................................17 Expressing the Bladder ...................................18 Pet Care – Nail Trimming...............................21 Giving Supplements........................................22 Emergency Preparedness ................................23 First Aid Kit ....................................................27 Suzie Q ............................................................29 Notes ...............................................................33 Veterinarian.....................................................34 Emergency Contacts .......................................34

Introduction The Dachshund breed is prone to spinal injury that

can occur with little or no advance notice. While this handbook is intended for the Dachshund

owner, it is also useful for owners of other breeds that have similar tendencies.

Inside this handbook, you will find articles that are informative, helpful, hopeful, and encouraging. The

goal of this handbook is to guide you through some of the basic issues of caring for a downed pet, to identify the symptoms of potentially serious spinal problems,

to describe procedures for handling emergency situations –including who to contact for help, and,

most important of all, to offer you the confidence that your downed baby can live a happy and otherwise

healthy life. We recommend that you keep this book on hand and

ready to use in case of an emergency.

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Lucy

Lucy is a five-year-old mini dapple whose life started as normally as that of any other Dachshund. She was the beloved pet of a fashion editor and wore one-of-a-kind coats for the winter and hand-made outfits for the

summer. Living in the comfort of a wonderful apartment, she would go everywhere with her owner.

When Lucy was about three, she suddenly became paralyzed. Her owner rushed her to a vet, where

corrective surgery was performed. Lucy recovered from surgery, but was still without feeling in her legs,

was unable to walk, and lacked control over her bodily functions.

The owner refused to buy Lucy a cart for fear of being stared at and denied her the rehabilitative therapy that

could have helped return strength to her legs. Sometimes Lucy was allowed to drag herself around the apartment, but mostly she was confined for a year and a half to wicker laundry basket where she could only peek out at the world. This was Lucy’s home.

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Lucy’s rebirth happened when her owner was browsing the Internet and found a rescuer for

Dachshunds. This rescuer accepted Lucy with the understanding that once she was able to walk she

would be returned to her owner. Lucy was scrawny, had untreated dog bites, and had

chapped and scabbed skin from dragging herself around, yet still showed vigor for life! The rescuer

provided Lucy with a cart and spent many long, grueling hours at physical therapy. During the three

months that Lucy was with her rescuer, her owner lost interest, stopped returning calls, and stopped visiting. The rescuer knew that Lucy would never walk again and would never return to her owner, so she started

looking for a permanent, adoptive home. Another rescuer, who had been following Lucy’s story, wasted no time when she heard that Lucy

needed a new home. I am happy to report that Lucy now lives in a big house in the country with four other

brother and sister doxies. She even has two carts to choose from! The days of looking at life through a

basket are over, the scars and scrapes, a distant memory. She has re-grown fur and is now at her ideal

weight. Even though Lucy will never walk again, it simply doesn’t matter to her new parents; she couldn’t be

more loved and cherished. She is an inspiration to all who meet her and has shown this rescuer the clear

meaning of what rescue and life are all about. By Joy Schwanger, member of DDS

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Intervertebral Disc Disease

The dog’s spinal column consists of the spinal cord that is protected by the vertebrae. The intervertebral

discs are structures that lie between the individual vertebrae and act as a cushion between the discs.

Each disc has a fibrous tissue outer layer called the annulus fibrosus that surrounds a soft inner core

called the nucleus pulposus (similar to a jelly filled doughnut).

Intervertebral disc disease is a premature hardening of

the center of the disc, and weakening of the outer layer of the disc that occurs in chondrodystrophic

dogs such as Dachshunds. As the outer layer of the disc ruptures, the inner material is displaced upwards against the spinal cord. This herniated disc material

injures the spinal cord and results in cord swelling and compression. Consequentially, the nerves within the spinal cord traveling to the legs and urinary bladder

become damaged. This in turn results in loss of limb function that can range from weakness to paralysis,

and loss of bladder control.

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In some cases, the damage to the spinal cord is minor, clinical signs are mild, and anti-inflammatory drugs such as methylprednisolone can be given to decrease the swelling in the cord and allow function to return. If methylprednisolone is given, the animal may feel

better and may want to be active. However, it is extremely important that the dog is strictly confined to

prevent further herniation of disc material. In about four to six weeks, the rupture heals and the dog can

resume normal activity. In other cases, the amount of disc material

compressing the cord is too great and conservative therapy is unsuccessful. These dogs require surgery

to remove a section of bone over the spinal cord (hemilaminectomy), and to remove the herniated disc material in order to relieve the pressure on the cord.

Before surgery can be done, radiographs (X-rays) and a myelogram (a special X-ray in which dye is injected around the spinal cord) must be performed to identify

the area of the spinal cord that is involved. After surgery, the prognosis is still guarded. Unless there has been severe damage to the cord, most dogs will

regain some degree of neurologic function and may be able to walk.

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Some dogs have such severe damage to the spinal

cord that they can no longer feel when their toes are pinched and are said to be “deep pain negative.” In this group of dogs the prognosis for regaining use of

the legs is very poor. These dogs can still receive decompressive surgery and if the cord appears intact, we can wait to see if the dog regains function. After six months, if the dog has not regained function it is highly unlikely that the dog will walk again. Your dog will require a great deal of care until hind limb

and bladder function are regained. Cage confinement is necessary to prevent injury. Soft, dry bedding must be supplied to prevent bedsores from developing. The

bladder may need to be expressed (manually squeezing on the abdomen to apply pressure to the

bladder and cause urination) three to four times a day. Physical rehabilitation is important to maintain

muscle tone and joint mobility.

Article courtesy of Dr. Richard Borgens, Purdue University

Drawings courtesy of Kimberly J. Harrington

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What Do I Look For? The signs of back problems vary based on the source of the problem. Here is a list of common symptoms

and behaviors to watch for.

• Reluctance to move

• Reduced activity

• Slower movement

• Stiffness or difficulty climbing stairs

• Difficulty with walking and jumping

• Very tense abdomen

• Hunched back due to muscle tension

• Crying or shaking

• Inability to move rear legs

• Loss of bladder and bowel control

As in people, the symptoms of IVDD can vary widely. If your Dachshund exhibits any of the above signs,

immediately restrict his movement by placing him in a crate and take him to the vet.

Should your Dachshund stop using his hind legs completely, this is an emergency; you must get him to

a neurologist as soon as possible. When surgery is needed to correct the problem, the probability of full

recovery is highest when the surgery is performed within 24 to 48 hours of onset.

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Questions and Answers The following are some frequently asked questions and answers about owning a pet with disabilities.

Q: My Dachshund has just had back surgery. How long will he need to be on crate rest?

A: The duration of crate rest is dependent on the type of surgery. Your vet should give you specific instructions. Usually it is at least four weeks.

Q: How do I prevent pressure sores from developing on my pet while crated?

A: Place soft bedding material in the crate, at least one inch thick, and adjust your pet’s resting position from

time to time. Never let your pet lie in the same position for too long. Check every hour, and if

needed, adjust him. This is a good time to make sure that his bedding is dry.

Q: When I let my pet out to urinate, do I just let him walk out into the yard alone?

A: No. You should carry your pet to the yard and make sure that he has his collar and leash on. Your

pet may not feel any pain due to medication and may think that he can chase those squirrels. This could

lead to a re-injury of the spine. Use extreme caution when letting your pet outdoors to do its business.

Q: After expressing the bladder of my pet, he is still leaking. Are we doing something wrong?

A: It takes practice to learn how to completely empty your pet’s bladder. Each pet is different and will react

differently to being expressed. It is best

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to have your vet show you how to express the bladder. If your pet is still leaking even though you are certain

that you have done a thorough job, you may try placing him outdoors on his favorite spot. The familiar smell may make him want to empty his

bladder completely. Q: My pet is paralyzed and surgery is not an option.

What do we do? A: A disabled pet can still have quality of life. First,

your pet should be treated by a vet. Treatment usually includes corticosteroid medication and crate rest for several weeks. After the injury has had time to heal, and your pet is no longer in pain, you can purchase a wheelchair (cart) to help with mobility. Most pets take to the cart right away and love exploring the

outdoors once again. Q: My pet is on crate rest and will not stop barking.

What do I do? A: If your pet does not like being crated, try giving him something for entertainment. Some find that a Kong is helpful when stuffed with peanut butter and

kibbles. DDS does not endorse any particular manufacturer, so any hard rubber toy with a hole in

the middle is useful. Take a look around at your local pet supply shop. Be sure that your pet is not allergic

to peanut butter. You can substitute anything else your pet likes for the peanut butter. Trying to get the goodies out of the toy should entertain your pet for

several hours.

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Q: I have tried everything to make my pet comfortable in his crate, but he will not settle down.

What can I do? A: Some pets do not like confinement. The use of a crate, while preferable, sometimes will not work. In

such instances, you may consider purchasing an oversized laundry basket, the type that has the higher sides on it. Place soft bedding in the bottom and try

using it. Make sure your pet does not try to jump over the sides, and never leave him unattended in the

basket. This would also be a good question for your veterinarian.

Q: When do I start water therapy on my pet? A: Usually after the crate rest period is complete and

after the sutures have been removed. Again, this depends on the type of injury and type of surgery

performed. Please ask your vet when to start this type of therapy.

Q: I am having a difficult time keeping my pet clean from urine accidents. What can I do?

A: Try using baby wipes, the kind without alcohol. They are easy to use and gentle on the skin.

Q: Is it possible to diaper my pet? A: Yes. A 14 pound Dachshund uses size 3 diapers. Cut a small hole for the tail. Be sure that the hole is not so large that the urine will escape. Also, make sure that the diaper is not too tight around his upper legs. Check frequently for wetness. You don’t want

your pet sitting in a wet diaper all day.

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Q: My pet is paralyzed and I don’t want surgery performed. Are there alternatives?

A: Yes, there are many alternatives and success stories of pets regaining their mobility without

surgery. Some examples are corticosteroid treatment and crate rest, acupuncture, chiropractic treatment, holistic therapies, and Adequan® injections. DDS does not recommend any specific treatment. You

should ask a specialist about what is right for you and your pet.

Don’ts for Dachshunds Many times we are asked by Dachshund owners what they can do to help avoid spinal problems in their dog.

The following is a list of some of the activities that should be avoided, and alternatives to help you avoid

them. Don’t permit excessive jumping. You can place

ramps around your furniture and teach your Dachshund to use them to get up and down as needed.

Limit handling of your Dachshund by children. Because Dachshunds tend to be slinky and jumpy, try to avoid unsupervised handling by children. If a child

wants to pick up your Dachshund, be sure that the child is sitting on the floor or ground. A Dachshund

is easily dropped, and extreme caution should be taken when carrying them. Always pick up a

Dachshund with both hands, making sure that you support the rear end of the dog.

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Never beat an animal for any reason. This not only increases the risk of injury to their spine and other body parts, but can also cause severe trauma and

personality change. Instead, try using a water spray bottle to break bad habits. An obedience class, usually available through your local community center, can be effective. This sort of training can

benefit a puppy as well as a grown dog with behavioral problems.

Don’t teach your Dachshund to sit up or stand up on his hind legs. Yes, it’s cute, but this position can

place undue strain on a Dachshund’s back. If you are considering the addition of a Dachshund

puppy to your family, be sure to check out the breeder. Ask for a history of the parents and

grandparents of the puppy. Make sure there is no history of back injury and IVDD. You can

accomplish this by requesting a health certificate for these animals. If one is not available, think twice

before purchasing the puppy. Never buy a puppy from a pet store. The vast

majority of puppies available in pet stores are bred in puppy mills. The breeding dogs usually do not

receive adequate health care and the dogs are confined to small, cramped cages. Puppies from mills are

prone to health problems.

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Massage Therapy Massage therapy can benefit a disabled dog, but as with any form of home-based treatment, you should

check with your veterinarian before starting. There is little chance of harming your pet when the massage is performed correctly and with the proper precautions.

Massage techniques for animals have often been referred to as “petting to achieve a desired outcome.” Dogs usually enjoy being petted, and we feel better

knowing that we are helping to make them feel better. There are numerous massage techniques, some

complicated and others simple. You may be surprised to learn that you are already using some of these

techniques. One purpose of massage is to warm up muscles before

exercising or rehabilitation. If an animal is having problems walking, we can help it by warming up the

affected muscles through massage and then by assisting with the movement of the affected limbs.

This is called Passive Range of Motion (PROM) and is performed by laying the dog on its side and guiding

the limb through the movements of walking. Make sure that you support the limb and never force any

movements. When performing massage therapy, use stroking

movements over the area that you intend to massage. It is not necessary to massage the entire dog at one

time; rather, it is recommended that you work on one side of the animal at a time.

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Start the massage by rubbing the head area, the ears, the base of the ears, the back and side of the neck, and the front of the chest area. Spend about 10 minutes if the animal will permit it. Always remember to use the animal’s reaction as your guide; if the dog likes it, and

you are comfortable, continue; if the animal seems restless or moves away, try something else.

Before leaving an area, you should once again rub over the area by stroking in the direction of the fur,

from front to back. By using your hands in this manner, you are directing the blood back into circulation and helping to empty the tissues.

Massage each area using your fingertips, the pads between the fingertip and the knuckle, or the flat part

on the back of your fingers (the area between your fingertips and the palm of your hand). Use your thumb to steady your fingers. Run your fingers

through the animal’s fur, moving in the direction of the coat, starting at the crown of the head.

Most dogs find it relaxing when you stroke the ears from base to tip. They also enjoy when you rake along the body, such as starting at the crest of the

head and raking down the side of the neck toward the chest area, or gentle circular motions around the ears,

the ear bases, and in the face area. Experiment with different techniques. Try spreading

your fingers apart, or keeping them together. Use differing amounts of pressure, from gentle to medium.

Find out which technique your

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dog finds pleasant. Some dogs will prefer differing degrees of pressure depending on their mood. Be

flexible; make sure that you and your dog are enjoying the massage.

Move on to the next area, which may be the shoulder and down the front leg, including the chest area. The bony areas will need less pressure and may be painful if too much pressure is applied. For example, when

massaging over the shoulder blade you would not use as much pressure as you would use on the thicker

muscles in the thigh or rump. Continue stroking and massaging the dog by moving

on to the midsection and finally the rear legs and hips. Don’t forget to massage the tail and the area

surrounding it. In areas such as ears, paws, and around the tail, use small circular movements and

shorter strokes. It is very important to use only light pressure when massaging near the spine. If the animal is suffering

from pain or recuperating from surgery, this area should be avoided altogether; only the surrounding area should be gently massaged. If massaging the

spinal area is appropriate, work on either side of the spine, never actually on the bony area.

Soft stroking starting at the head and progressing down to the rear is usually welcomed. If your animal will only accept your touch on part of this area, try to build on that. Sometimes dogs will let you rub more of their body as they become used to the process and

understand that you are not going to force them to accept something that may be

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uncomfortable to them. You may be surprised how quickly they start coming to you, demanding

massages. Even an extremely gentle massage will be beneficial. If in doubt, avoid sensitive areas. Use your own hand

to determine the feel of the pressure you are using. Massage one of your hands with the other and notice

how it feels. You can vary the feel of any stroke merely by pressing harder or softer. Let your pet be

your guide. Observe the reaction to each stroke. Does he seem to enjoy the touch? If he is scooting away or wiggling, he is probably asking you to pay

closer attention to his comfort level. Proceed with massaging until an entire side has been covered, always remembering to stroke the area at the

end of the massage before moving on. It is a good idea to attempt massaging both sides of the animal. However, if your dog doesn’t allow you to work on

both sides, honor that. Work in the areas that your pet will accept. Never force your dog to be massaged.

They have the right to say no! I really believe that any time you are touching an

animal or another human, you are sharing one of the best experiences. Your dog will feel better, and you

will see that you are helping him to relax, easing discomfort, and strengthening your relationship.

Massage is truly a great way to share time and make you both feel better.

I hope that you will give it a try. Courtesy of Linda Castor, member of DDS

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Water Therapy

Water therapy is a simple way to ensure that your disabled pet gets exercise. It also stimulates his

circulation and keeps him clean. Dogs will instinctively start paddling their legs when placed in water. This reaction, plus the soothing warmth of the

water and the frictionless movement, makes water therapy beneficial for your pet.

How often should I do water therapy?

If you can, try to devote approximately 20 minutes each day for giving your dog water therapy. A

minimum of three times a week is recommended.

How do I start?

Giving your pet water therapy is easy. Fill your bathtub with warm water, just high enough to cover

your dog’s shoulders and low enough to avoid having his face in the water. Place your dog in the tub while

holding his head above water with one hand and supporting his rear and belly area with the other. You may use a towel or “walk about” harness to assist you

with this. Some find that if they get in the tub, it makes holding and steadying the pet much easier.

Never let go of your dog while in the tub. This can be dangerous and make the dog afraid of the water.

Slowly walk your dog from one end of the tub to the other. Repeat this for approximately five to ten

minutes. After you have given your dog this type of therapy several times, increase the time

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in the tub until you have worked up to 20 minutes. If you have a whirlpool tub, activating the jets is

beneficial because the bubbles help massage your pet. You can purchase a portable whirlpool at places like

Wal-Mart and K-Mart, but it is not necessary for effective therapy.

Suzie Q receiving her water therapy.

My dog is afraid of water. What can I do? There are two things you can do. First, you can place the dog in an empty tub and then slowly add a couple of inches of warm water. Let your dog play in it until

he feels sure that nothing bad will happen to him. Increase the water level by two inches, and again let

him play in it. Keep repeating this until your dog does not mind having the water reach his shoulders. Second, you can use a hand-held shower massage

head that can be attached to the faucet. Spray a low-pressure stream of warm water up and down his back and legs. As your dog gets used to this, increase the

amount of water pressure.

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What if I don’t have a tub? Water therapy can still be given even if you only have a shower. Attach a hand-held shower massage head

and use it to spray a low pressure stream of warm water up and down his back and legs. As your dog

gets used to the feeling, increase the pressure.

Expressing the Bladder Expressing is a procedure whereby external pressure

is applied to the bladder to help void the contents. Bladder control is sometimes diminished, if not

completely lost, when a dog becomes disabled. If the bladder is not emptied several times a day, it can lead to serious infection or bladder stones that may have to be removed surgically. Should your pet have trouble emptying his bladder, it is important that you ask your

vet to show you how to express the bladder.

How often should I express? There are different views on the frequency of

expressing the bladder. Some veterinarians will recommend that you express the bladder only twice a

day, while others recommend four times. It also depends on how much water your dog drinks during

the day. The best answer is to start by expressing your dog’s bladder once every three to four hours

during the day and just before bedtime. Adjust this pattern as your experience grows.

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Why does my dog leak? In some cases, a disabled dog may have the function of the bladder but not the control over it. The dog may leak urine throughout the day. Expressing the

bladder more frequently may help reduce the leakage and decrease the odds of crystals forming in the

bladder.

How do I express my dog? In most cases, expressing a dog is quite easy, but it can be intimidating at first. The thought of holding your dog and squeezing down on him seems like it

may cause discomfort. However, if done in a steady, slow motion with a consistent amount of pressure, it

will not hurt your pet. Your dog will become accustomed to this new handling of him, and after several attempts, he will usually start cooperating.

Below is a sketch of a dog indicating the approximate location of the bladder and the points where pressure

should be applied.

For females, face the dog toward you, flatten your hands, and place them on both sides of the bladder,

gently applying pressure. When she is ready to urinate, she will usually start squatting as she

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would when urinating on her own. If not successful after applying pressure for about three to five seconds,

release and start again. For males, follow the same procedure for females, but

hold the dog facing away from you. There are two reasons for doing it this way. First, you will get a

better feel for his bladder in this position, and second, he will urinate away from, rather than toward you. It is usually best to have your vet show you exactly how to express the bladder. Proper voiding of the

bladder is very important for your pet’s health.

Pet Care – Nail Trimming

Trimming your pet’s nails should be made a part of your regular routine. Try to trim at least once every

two weeks. The more you do this, the more comfortable you and your pet will be.

A disabled, aging, or arthritic dog greatly benefits from having short nails. It makes it much easier for

them to maneuver, especially when your floors are not carpeted. If the nails are too long, your dog will have

a difficult time getting up or pulling itself around when in a wheelchair.

The following illustrates how you can become an accomplished nail trimmer.

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The above graphics have been provided by Melissa Sworab (M2K). Thank

you to Melissa for assisting us with this article.

If you are unsure of this process, please consult with your pet care professional. Most of them are more

than happy to show you how to trim your pet’s nails.

Giving Supplements As complementary medicine gains credibility, more

and more supplements to help your dog in a variety of ways become available. There is growing

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evidence that some nutritional supplements provide health benefits to animals, just as they do in humans.

The benefits of other supplements have not been confirmed. If your pet is suffering from back

problems, you may want to consider supplementing the food with the following:

Glucosamine chondroitin Vitamin ester C

(the ester is easier on the stomach) Vitamin E

Flax seed oil or fish oil

Owners that have given their dogs a combination of these supplements for several months have reported

noticing a difference in their pet’s behavior and attitude. It seems to help make them feel better.

Please consult with your veterinarian before giving your pet any supplements. Your veterinarian will

advise you as to the proper dosage of each supplement.

Emergency Preparedness

If you are like most people, you have been taught to be prepared in the event of an emergency. You have an escape plan in place for your family in case of fire and a safe room in the house for everyone to go to in case of tornado warnings. But does your plan include your pets? In case of fire, who is in charge of helping

your pets escape? What if you

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are not home? In case of a tornado, do you have supplies available for your pets in a safe room? These

are things that should be considered when owning pets. In an effort to help you and your pet be better prepared for an emergency, we have compiled the

following information and advice. Food: Store at least one week’s worth of food that

your dog is used to eating. If canned, be sure to include a can opener, a doggie dish, and spoon to

scoop out food. Water: You should have at least a week’s worth of water for you and your pets. Be sure to periodically

refresh the water supply. Sanitation: Paper towels, plastic baggies, a pooper scooper, and a water container will be very handy

tools to have when you are confined in a small room with your pets over a period of time. If you have cats, you might want to have a litter box and fresh cat litter

available. Cleaning Supplies: Paper towels, dish washing

detergent, bleach, and a bucket are handy tools for cleaning your pet’s food dish and after a bathroom

visit. Blankets, Towels, and Toys: These are items that will help make your pet feel comfortable and safe.

Leash and Harness: In times of emergency, your pet can feel stress. You should have a leash and harness

on hand at such times in the event you need

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to restrain your pet. Even the best-behaved pet can panic during emergency situations.

Medications: Have at least a one-week supply of any medications that your pet is taking. It is important to rotate the medications to ensure freshness. You can accomplish this by replacing the old medication each

time you get the prescription refilled. First Aid Kit: See First Aid Kit on the page 29 for a

list of basic first aid items you should keep in your kit. This is a good place to keep your pet’s medications. Be sure to ask your vet the correct dosage of Pepto-

Bismol® (for gastrointestinal upset) and Kaopectate® (for diarrhea). Check on antihistamines and the

proper dosage for your pet’s size. Enclose a copy of your pet’s vaccination record, a current photograph of your pet with its name written on it, information about tattoo or microchip number, what to do with your pet in case you are not available, and the name, address,

and phone number of your pet’s healthcare professional.

Paralyzed Pets: Special needs pets require additional supplies. Be sure to list all of the items you use on a

daily basis to care for your pet and include these items in your first aid kit.

Identification Tags: Always make sure your pet is wearing updated identification tags.

Crate: You should train your pet to enter its crate upon command. The best place to store your pet’s

crate is by an exit door. In the event of an

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emergency, should you have to evacuate your home, the crate is immediately accessible to you and your pet. Each crate should be tagged with your pet’s

identification, including the pet’s name and emergency contact information.

Never leave your pet in the event of fire or gas pipe leaks: If at all possible, take your pets with you in these emergencies. If it is not possible to evacuate

your pets, make sure they have the supplies necessary to survive on their own for a minimum of one week. Never tie or crate your pet: If left on its own during an emergency, the chances of survival are greater if

the pet can escape. Loss of pet during a disaster: Immediately following the disaster, contact your nearest animal shelter and report the loss of your pet. As soon as it is deemed

safe, return to your neighborhood and post signs identifying your pet with a photo, name, any special markings, etc. Place an ad in your local newspaper. Ask bus drivers, postal workers, UPS drivers, FedEx

drivers, and anyone else who might frequent your neighborhood, to keep an eye out for your pet. Be sure to hand everyone a flyer with photo, name and

other information about your pet, including your contact information.

Emergency Pet Signs: A sign identifying the number of pets, their names, your name and number, and

emergency contacts should be posted by your door or in a window, where emergency crews can see it

clearly. The sign should read: In case of an emergency please save my pets. It should include

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the location of your pets, their names, your name and phone number, and an emergency contact such as

your neighbor, veterinarian, or local animal shelter. A sign such as this, placed in a conspicuous place, can

save your pet’s life.

First Aid Kit Preferably, you should have several first aid kits available—one in your safe room or emergency

shelter, one in the car you use to transport your pets, and one in your home in a readily accessible location.

Here is a list of the basic first aid items you should keep in your kit:

• Self-sticking, conforming bandages • Absorbent gauze pads • Absorbent gauze rolls

• Cotton-tipped applicators (Q-tips) • Antiseptic wipes

• Emollient cream • Tweezers and scissors

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• Instant cold pack • Latex disposable gloves

• Kaopectate • Nail clippers

• Rectal thermometer • Antibiotic ointment • Eye and ear ointment

• Antihistamines (as approved by your vet) • Pet medications • Pepto-Bismol

The first aid kit is a good place to store your pet medications. Also, keep a copy of your pet’s vaccination record and a current photograph,

identifying him by name. On the back of the photo, indicate whether your pet is tattooed or microchipped, what to do when you are not available, and the name, address, and phone number of your pet’s veterinarian.

Have at least one week’s supply of any medication your pet is taking. It is important to rotate the medications to ensure freshness. One way to

accomplish this is to replace the old medication with new at each refill.

Please note that this information is in no way meant to replace the advice of your pet’s veterinarian.

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Suzie Q

Hi, my name is Suzie Q, and here is my story.

My mom read about me on the Internet and just couldn't resist. Thank goodness! This is how it all started. I was found by some folks on the side of a

highway in Idaho. They picked me up and took me to a local veterinary hospital. The doctor, Bruce King, took me in and cared for me for two weeks while he was trying to find my family. But no one answered his newspaper ad. After two weeks, Dr. King had to make a tough decision. Lucky for me he made the

right one. He decided to contact a local rescue group and tell them about me. The members of this group posted messages on the Internet trying to find a new

home for me, but it was not easy. You see, most people don't want a dog like me, paralyzed and all.

But I lucked out when mom read one of the posts and called Dr. King saying that she would come and get

me. Mom had a vacation planned and couldn't get me for a whole week, but that nice Dr. King told her that he'd

take care of me until she got here to pick me up. I tell

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you, it was a long week but mom did come. When she got here, Dr. King brought her into the

consultation room and talked to her about me and my condition. He told her that he didn’t think I would ever walk again. That didn’t bother my new mom,

and she told Dr. King so. Finally, the assistant came to get me, and when we entered the room, mom took a

picture. I could hardly wait until they put me on that little

table, because as soon as they did, I kissed mommy on the cheek and just knew she wouldn't be able to

change her mind about rescuing me. I know that was kind of sneaky, but if you were in my shoes, you

would have done the same. As expected, it worked like a charm. Mom was so excited.

I forgot to mention my dad. At first I kind of stayed clear of him. He is a big guy and a little scary.

Anyway, he just kept on insisting that I play with him, and after a while, I did. You know what? He is great

and just loves me to pieces. Enough of the mushy stuff and back to the story. Mom and dad took me out to the car. They were

pulling a big trailer and in the back of the car there were other dogs. Oh boy, did they make a ruckus! So of course I had to join in. We barked non-stop for two hours. Finally, I guess we were all just too pooped to

pop and fell asleep in our crates. Thank goodness mom thought to buy me a crate before picking me up. I couldn’t imagine having these wild dogs jumping all

over me.

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We drove home to South Dakota, which was a long trip, but when we finally got there, mom introduced

these other dogs to me, one at a time. First I met Willie, my brother. He seemed very nice and loves to play with me. Then came Millie, who is a little mini

and was still a baby, so I didn't worry about her much. Then she introduced me to this huge dog named

Coffee, who really worried me, but it turned out that she is old, blind and really doesn't want to be bothered with me or anyone. Once again I was safe. But then,

mom brought in this little white dog named Sadie. Sadie is a one-year-old Jack Russell and boy, oh boy, could I smell trouble the moment I got a whiff of her!

I decided to show her some attitude right away and nipped her in the butt. That pretty much let her know

not to mess with me; at least that's what I thought anyway. Every once in a while I have to remind her who’s boss, but that’s okay, because I kind of like

doing that anyway. Well, now that I am home, I have gained some

weight, and my coat is really shiny. Mom gives me flax seed oil, vitamins E and C, and glucosamine.

Seems to do the trick, because my fur stopped falling out (thank goodness, I was worried about that). I also get water therapy to help my joints and circulation, or

so they tell me.

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Working out in the tub.

And now for the best part: mom got me this really cool cart that allows me to run around. I tell you what, my behind sure feels a lot better having that

contraption strapped on. So finally I have my very own home. I play with the other dogs and go for a walk every day. Life is is just

about perfect. Thanks for reading my story. Bye for now!

Suzie Q

Note: Our dear, sweet Suzie Q passed over the rainbow bridge on December 12, 2006. She will

always be missed and in hearts forever.

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Notes ___________________________________________ ___________________________________________ ___________________________________________ ___________________________________________ ___________________________________________ ___________________________________________ ___________________________________________ ___________________________________________ ___________________________________________ ___________________________________________ ___________________________________________ ___________________________________________ ___________________________________________ ___________________________________________ ___________________________________________ ___________________________________________ ___________________________________________ ___________________________________________ ___________________________________________ ___________________________________________ ___________________________________________

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Veterinarian Clinic Name: ________________________________ Doctor:_____________________________________ Street:______________________________________ City: _______________________________________ Phone: _____________________________________ Emergency: _________________________________ Directions: __________________________________ ___________________________________________ ___________________________________________ ___________________________________________ ___________________________________________ ___________________________________________ ___________________________________________ ___________________________________________

Emergency Contacts Name: _____________________________________ Street:______________________________________ City: _______________________________________ Phone: _____________________________________ Name: _____________________________________ Street:______________________________________ City: _______________________________________ Phone: _____________________________________ Name: _____________________________________ Street:______________________________________ City: _______________________________________

Phone