darganfod hen discovering old dai cymreig welsh...
TRANSCRIPT
Rhif Elusen Gofrestredig: Registered charity No: 1131782
www.discoveringoldwelshhouses.co.uk
©Discovering Old Welsh Houses Group
Discovering Old Welsh Houses
Darganfod Hen Dai Cymreig
Plas UchafCorwen
LL21 0EW
HOUSE HISTORY RESEARCHWritten in the language chosen by the volunteers and researchers & including information so far discovered
PLEASE NOTE ALL THE HOUSES IN THIS PROJECT ARE PRIVATE AND THERE IS NO ADMISSION TO ANY OF THE PROPERTIES
Jenny Lees
1st May 2016
1
Plas Uchaf Corwen LL21 0EW
by Jenny Lees
Plas Uchaf, known historically as Plas o Kymmer or Cymer, is a magnificent
cruck and aisle truss hall house. It is situated south west of the former market
town of Corwen and approximately one mile north of the village of Cynwyd.
Detail from 19th Century Ordnance Survey map (image by Jenny Lees)
Cymer was the ancient name for the area around the confluence of the Rivers
Alwen and Dyfrdwy (Dee) in the former parish of Llangar, and lay within the
ancient `hundred` of Edeyrnion or Edeirnion. This area is now part of
Denbighshire and was administratively regarded as Clwyd until 1996, but
belonged from 1284 until 1974 to the ancient county of Merionethshire.1
2
Although the dwelling now known as Plas Uchaf has had this name since at
least the late 1600s, it was known earlier as Plas o Kymmer or Cymer. To avoid
confusion with the encompassing township of Cymer, I will begin this house
history by referring to the dwelling as Plas o Kymmer, whose earliest
inhabitants are believed to have been the Barons of Cymer.
They were descendants of one of the last native royal families of Wales and
their lineage stemmed from the last Welsh Prince to rule the whole of the
ancient Kingdom of Powys, Madog ap Maredudd, who died around 1160.2
Madog`s illegitimate but acknowledged son Owain Brogontyn was granted
lands in Edeirnion and Dinmael, which were then divided between his sons
Bleddyn, Gruffydd and Iorwerth.
Iorwerth`s portion covered Llangar and part of Gwyddelwern, then further
division made his son Gruffydd ap Iorwerth 2nd Baron of Cymer, while
Gruffydd`s brother Elise ap Iorwerth became Baron of neighbouring Llangar.
Above is a detail from the cover of the Memorandum Book kept by Humffrey
Hughes of Gwerclas (now kept at Meirionydd Record Office, Z/M/572).
3
Although the book was written between 1662 and 1674, the actual cover is
likely to have been added by a later descendant to emphasise their pedigree.
The early Barons of Cymer
We don`t yet know exactly where the Barons of Cymer lived before they
occupied the present dwelling of Plas o Kymmer. There could have been an
older house on the same site, but there are a number of other possibilities for
the site of the original Baronial abode which are considered in Appendix One.
However we do know that, consequent to the Owain Glyndwr rebellion of
1400 to 1415, Henry the English Prince of Wales reported his army`s retaliatory
destruction of the “fine and populous country” of Edeyrnion.3 Dwellings would
have been easy to raze in view of the predominantly timber construction of
that period, so the original barony is likely to have been destroyed.
It is therefore unsurprising that no surviving pre - 1400 dwellings have so far
been identified in the Cymer area, with Plas o Kymmer `s dendrochronology
felling date of 14354 being the earliest.
The coat of arms in the image below can be seen on the 1776 facade of the
present house of Gwerclas. The Barons of Cymer had moved from Plas o
Kymmer to a house on the present site of neighbouring Gwerclas by 1600, but
the symbolic figures allude to events in the earlier history of these Barons.
In 1282 Baron of Cymer Gruffydd ap Iorwerth and his brother Elisse had been
among the Lords of Ial and Edeirnion who had raided Oswestry on Palm Sunday
and then burnt the town on 19th September, causing damage estimated at
£2,500 in silver.5 In addition to rampant lions and wild boars, the three heads
depicted are said by some to be those of Englishmen killed in the raid, but they
may in fact be from an earlier pedigree!
4
Image by Jenny Lees
However, by 1284 these Barons had received a royal pardon and Gruffydd ap
Iorwerth ap Owain Brogontyn`s baronial rights within his ancestral lands were
confirmed by royal charter. 6 Their lineage (Appendix Two) suggests that by
the time of the presumed construction of Plas o Kymmer (1435-6) they had
acquired an extensive local property empire through intermarriage with
significant North Wales gentry families.
Powys Fadog7 tells us that Ieuan ap Llywelyn Ddû, sixth Baron of Cymer,
married his relation Margaret, also referred to as Morfudd8, who was heiress
of both Branas Uchaf in Edeyrnion and Crogen in neighbouring Penllyn. So in
1392, upon the death of his father, their son Rhys ap Ieuan became not only
7th Baron of Cymer, but also Baron of Branas Uchaf and Crogen.
However, because Rhys ap Ieuan was a minor his estates were in the hands of
the queen9. He was one of three tenants farming the royal interests within the
commote of Ederyrnion in 1413-1410 and was also Rhaglan of the township of
Abertanat in Shropshire in 1415.11
5
Rhys married Angharad, daughter and heiress of Owain Glyndwr`s cousin
Hywel Sele ap Meurig of Nannau, near Dolgellau.12 While their eldest son
inherited Crogen and Branas Uchaf, their younger son Dafydd ap Rhys became
8th Baron of Cymer.
We don`t know exactly which Baron of Cymer built Plas o Kymmer, but Dafydd
ap Rhys was witness to a Branas Isaf deed of 144313, later than Plas o
Kymmer`s dendrochronology date of 1435. He had died by 1445 when an
escheator assessed his lands.14
It was certainly a very extravagant and high status building for this locality at
the time. The figure below, taken from Peter Smith`s Houses of the Welsh
Countryside 15, illustrates the original construction of Plas o Kymmer`s box-
framed aisle truss, cruck-framed central truss, unglazed windows and hearth
upon the floor.
6
Although by the 16th century a first floor had been added, one can today view
Plas Uchaf`s roof as it would have appeared originally, because the
Elizabethan ceiling and panelling were stripped out and exported to America in
the 1960s. The unusually ornate roof timbers would have been appreciated
when viewed from twenty five feet or so below by the Barons and their
entourage.
Image by Jenny Lees
The hall was heated originally by an open hearth, found by excavation of the
floor during restoration but now covered over, with smoke escaping through a
truss- framed louvre in the roof that still exists16. Interestingly, the dwelling had
horizontal sliding shutters, the grooves for which are still visible today.
Powyd Fadog 17 tells us that 8th Baron Dafydd married Mali, daughter of Ieuan
ab Einion ab Grufudd of Cryniarth18 and Hendwr. Mali was one of eight
children of Ieuan ap Einion and his wife Angharad, heiress of Hendwr, whose
offspring were praised in a cywydd by the famous 15th century bard Guto`r
Glyn. The poem compares the children to a vigorous orchard and to God`s
Angels in Glyndwr:
7
`Wyth enaid tylwth Einiawn
Angylion Duw yng Nglyn 19
Barn at Hendwr near Llandrillo in 2015 (image by Jenny Lees)
From the poet Gutun Owain we learn that Mali`s brother Dafydd ap Ieuan of
Cryniarth and Hendwr, known to be living 1440-68 and best known for his
Lancastrian defence of Harlech Castle during the Wars of the Roses,
commissioned Gutun to request the gift of hunting dogs from his uncle, Hywel
ap Rhys ap Dafydd of Rug. 20
Visitors to Plas o Kymmer in the 15th century may have included Guto`r Glyn or
Gutun Owain (fl. 1460 -1500) and were certainly likely to have included other
bards who travelled between the houses of the Uchelwyr.
Dafydd and Mali`s son Gruffydd Vychan became ninth Baron of Cymer (was
he named thus to distinguish him from his ancestor Gruffydd ap Iorwerth?)
while their younger son Ieuan inherited or built Dolau Gleision. Ruins of a
house on this site still exist just outside Corwen - marked as Dol y Glesyn on the
map below.
8
We know that the early Barons of Edeyrnion would have had considerable
power in the local area. They had been granted the rights of Pennaeth or
Welsh Barony, which included being able to hang convicted felonious tenants
on their own gallows and to `hunt and take all kinds of game on their lands
without impediment.`21
No court records remain as they are said to have been burnt in the 18th century
by Hugh Hughes of Gwerclas following a dispute with his neighbours. 22
However, we do know that a court was once held at Cynwyd, which seem to
have been the commotal centre by the later middle ages and the seat of
Owain Brogontyn`s original maerdref or demesne. 23 And in 1716 the Llansilin
antiquary John Davies described how the Barons of Cymer kept a court at
Cynwyd “until the time of Morgan Branes and to the memory of several
persons in my time”.24
16th century
We don`t know exactly when in the 16th century the original hall house of Plas
o Kymmer was remodelled in the latest fashion by insertion of a first floor.
However, a few miles away lies the hall house of Branas Ucha, thought to have
been built in 1508-09 (or rebuilt on the site of an earlier house) by Robert ap
9
Rheinallt. The bard Tudur Aled (fl.1480-1525) praised Rheinallt`s hospitality as
“princely”25 and Rheinallt was a direct descendant of 7th Baron of Cymer Rhys
ap Ieuan - who was Baron of Branas Uchaf and Crogen via his mother`s lineage.
Like Plas o Kymmer, Branas Ucha had an aisle-truss and originally a central
open hall, and both dwellings had two outer rooms in sequence serving as
intercommunicating service room and kitchen.25 But while doors with four
centred heads (cyclopean) may have been original at Branas they are thought
to be of sixteenth century character at Plas o Kymmer 26
Plas Uchaf doorway (2014 image by Jenny Lees)
Dendochronology also tells us that the first rebuilding of Branas Ucha took
place soon after 1514, in the form of an inner room ceiling which had roll-
moulded beams and joists with an opening for a ladder. 27 The photograph of
Plas o Kymmer below from Monroe (1933)26 shows its inserted six bay ceiling
before removal; apparently the wall plates were also moulded and there was
an upper fireplace that was `featureless except for a heavy oak lintel`.28
10
More information on the early architecture of Plas o Kymmer is given in
Appendix Three.
10th Baron of Cymer was Gruffudd Vychan`s son William ap Gruffydd Vychan.
Powys Fadog 29 tells us that William`s daughter Lowri married Gruffydd, 5th son
of Robert ab Gruffydd of Maesmor in Dinmael, who was a direct descendant
of another of Owain Brogontyn`s sons – Bleddyn (Appendix Four).
Lowri and Gruffydd`s grandson was Pyers Wynn of Plas Isaf , which lies
immediately to the north west of Plas o Kymmer today.
Plas Isaf 2013 (image by Jenny Lees)
11
Lowri`s husband Gruffydd appears to have been the second Gruffith referred
to in the following document:
1532, 1st Oct: 1. Robert ap Gruffith ap Res, baron of Ederneon [sic]. 2. Gruffith ap Robert
ap Gruffith ap Res. GIFT of messuage called Tyddyn y Gors and y plas bychan, township
Keven Kymer [? pa.(rish) Llangar] commote Edernion, and all his property and rights in
township le maerdref, [?pa.Llandrillo], commote Edernion. Latin.30
I have not yet discovered the location of Tyddyn y Gors and Y plas bychan and
it is not clear whether they are alternative names for the same dwelling, but
there are limited possibilities within the township Keven Kymer, Llangar.31
1558, 13thSept: 1. William ap Ieuan ap David ap Gruffith of Kymmer, gent. and Llywelyn ap
Gvttyn of Llangar, yeoman, both of the commote of Edernion, co. Merioneth; 2. Thomas ap Howell ap David Vychan and Katherine verch Gruffith, his wife. BOND for the observance of the award of Owen Glyn, Elisa ap Owen, Thomas Vychan Salysbury and Robert Wyn ap Robert, gentlemen, touching the title to messuages and lands in the commote of Edernion.32
It is unclear whether this was William, 10th Baron of Cymer, as the order of the
lineage would be correct but some generations are missing (Appendix Two).
Returning now to Plas o Kymmer, its position just below a hilltop with
commanding views of the Berwyn mountain and approaching valleys would
have been strategically advantageous. However, this site would have allowed
little room for expansion, either of the living accommodation or for the
amazing garden described in a 1609 chwedl by Edward Brynllys. 33
It is therefore not surprising that, by around 1600 and possibly earlier, the 11th
Baron of Cymer Hugh ap William had moved from the dwelling of Plas o
Kymmer to a more sheltered and less hilly site at Gwerclas, nearer to Afon
Dyfrdwy (Dee) 34. At this point the family adopted the English tradition for
surnames, so that Hugh`s offspring were now known as the Hughes of
Gwerclas (instead of ap Hugh).
17th Century
So far, I have found no baptisms or burials in Llangar Parish Records between
1614 and 1741 for families listed as of Plas o Kymmer, Cymer or Plas Uchaf -
though it should be noted that in this section abode is usually only named for
dwellings of some significance, including Gwerclas and neighbouring Havod.
12
Although the principal residence of the Barons of Cymer was now Gwerclas,
we know from documentary evidence35 that they still owned or leased Plas o
Kymmer, which by the 17th century must have been very comfortable with its
added first floor and presumably at least one chimney to replace the central
floor hearth!
Above: the huge inglenook fireplace today, with joist holes above showing where the
first floor used to be until the 1960s. (Image by Jenny Lees 2014)
So could the older dwelling of Plas o Kymmer have been used at this time as
an annexe for the extended family of the Barons of Cymer now living at
Gwerclas? For 1662 the Lay Subsidy Roll for Kymer township and Llangar
(1665-6) records Humffrey Hughes Esq. of Gwerclas as having seaven (the
transcription also says? 11) hearths.36
Although the hearth tax is usually listed separately for each property, it is
possible that Plas o Kymmer was still regarded as part of Gwerclas, and that
some of these hearths may have actually been at Plas o Kymmer.
The 1681 Notitiae 37 for Gwerclas list Baron of Cymer Humphrey Hughes
and his wife but also record: “In his family reside 12 souls and none under
18 years old” (though the 1912 transcript does advises that souls under 18
are not always included). This Humphrey Hughes had seventeen children38
by his first wife Maudlen between 1624 and 1647, and although he records
two of them as having died when writing in 1662, Humphrey also lists
around twenty eight surviving grandchildren from just four of his own
children.
13
It is possible that several extended family members who were listed when
buried as “of” the now more prestigious address of Gwerclas could have
actually lived at Plas o Kymmer. These include Dorothy Maysmor, Gwerkles,
Llangar, Spinster (born 2nd Oct. 1672),38 whose 1713 Will 39 mentions her
father John Maysmor, husband of Humphrey Hughes`s daughter Catherine.
Other possibilities are Dorothy`s sister Jane Masmor (born 10th June 1665)38
who seems to be the Mrs Jane Maesmore mentioned in the 1686 Notitiae
for Gwerclas, or Magdalen, Mrs Hughes, Gwerclas buried on 18th August
1733 40, who was probably the Maudlen born on 11th August 1665 to 15th
Baron of Cymer Thomas Hughes. 38
Of course, the above is speculation and Plas o Kymmer may have been
occupied by tenants, Gwerclas servants or an estate manager for the barony.
So we don`t actually know who lived at Plas o Kymmer between around 1600
and 1741, but do know that between 1642 and 1660 the local Barons were kept
busy with the Civil Wars. 14th Baron of Cymer Humphrey Hughes (the 2nd)
was a Commissioner of Array 41 fighting for the Royalists at Rowton Moor and
would have been responsible for recruiting others from the local area. He was
listed as of Gwerclas which was written as Querkle!
1682: The inventory of Humphrey Hughes includes a valuation of £2 for “All
mucke at Gwerckless and Cymer.” 42 Presumably both Gwerclas and Plas o
Kymmer were working farms at this time, with Cymer referring to Plas o
Kymmer rather than the township.
It is interesting to consider when and why Plas o Kymmer began to be known
as Plas Uchaf. The first use of Plas Uchaf I have found is in the 1695 work
Parochialia 43 by Edward Llwyd, antiquarian and Keeper of the Ashmolean
Museum. He says of Gwerclas: “Charles Hughes Esq. is ye present proprietor
and Plas Ychaf idem” and also refers to “Limestones in abundance at Havod and
Plas Uchaf in Keven Cymmer township”.
One possibility is that Plas o Kymmer became known locally as Plas Uchaf after
the neighbouring Plas was named Plas Isaf. We know that in 1642-3 “Robert
(Wynne) Pyers, Gent, Plas Issa” was buried in church at Llangar, and that
Robert Wynn was the son of Pyers Wynn of Plas Isav, 44 so a dwelling at Plas
Isaf existed well before 1642 (Appendix Four).
14
The first mention of the name Plas Uchaf in Llangar Parish Records is the
baptism of “David Jones, son of William and Anne” on 17th June 1741. Plas
Uchaf and Cymmer then seem to be used interchangeably in the following
Llangar Parish records of the 1740`s:
1745, March 10: Baptism of Jane Jones, son of William and Anne, Plas Uchaf.
1746, 8th January: Baptism of Hugh William, son of Edward and Margaret,
Plas Uchaf .
1749, 29th January: Baptism of Maurice Williams, son of Edward and
Margaret, Cymmer.
1750: The only burial I have found mentioning the name Cymer in Llangar
Parish Records up to 1762 is that of “Morris Edwards, son of Edward Robert,
Ty`nyrhyd servant at Gwerclas, abode Cymmer” on 10th January.
The picture above shows an undated outbuilding next to Plas Uchaf, the gable top of which
has now sadly collapsed. (Image by Jenny Lees, winter 2006- 7)
15
1766: We now have confirmation, from the 1766 Marriage Settlement of Hugh
Hughes Lloyd of Gwerclas and Margaret Walmesley, that that Plas Ucha was in
fact Kymmer:
Indenture 4 parts for the ancient manor or Lordship or reputed manor or Lordship of
Kymmer and also all that ancient manor house lands and tenements with the
appurtenances called Kymmer alias Plas Ucha. And all that ancient and capital messuage
Gwerclas and all the barns stables cowhouses outhouses and gardens and land held in
demesne.45
1774, 12th April: Lady of Gwerclas Margaret Lloyd could have had inhabitants of
Plas Ucha in mind when she wrote to her friend Elizabeth Baker at Hengwrt:
“My diffs [difficulties] are greatly lessened by Mr Lloyd`s [her husband`s] permission to act
as I please in the Spinning scheme – it was ever my wish to employ the people and pay them
ready money for their work without bothering my friends ... I have his leave to prosecute
my scheme in any way I best approve of and if I meet with success I hope my poor Neibours
[sic] will be greatly benefitted thereby” 46
1809 22nd Oct: Baptism of Daniel Davies son of Hugh and Gwen, Plas Ucha
(Llangar Parish Records).
1820: The Will of David Jones, Farmer, Plas Ucha (under £200) left £2 to his
son John Jones, £5 to his grandson David son of the said John Jones, £2 to his
daughter Mary Jones, and £5 to his grandson David son of the said Mary
Jones. A residue left to his wife Lowry Jones, including horses, chattels and
sheeps, was to be divided equally after her death between two other sons,
Thomas Jones and David Jones 47.
1820: The first David Jones was buried in the parish of Llanfor. 48 1823: Following the death of Richard Hughes Lloyd of Gwerclas, most of the Gwerclas estate was purchased by Rhug. In 1824 the sale catalogue49 listed Gwerclas mansion, lawn and demesne lands, and twenty five properties including a woollen factory and public house, Cynwyd, together with names of their occupants. The Schedule 50 included: LOT 1: Consists of Gwerclas Mansion, Lawn, and Demesne Lands, with a good walled Garden, Coach-house, Offices of every description, and all other requisite Buildings; also,
16
Plas Ucha Farm and a valuable Bed of Lime Stone, with five Kilns thereon; together with the undermentioned Farms, Water Corn Mill, and Cottages. The Demesne and Plas Ucha are situate [sic] within the Parish of Llangar, and lie within a
Ring Fence, surrounding the Mansion; they contain in all 235a.[acres]0 r.17p., and are in the
several occupations of JOHN MAYSMOR ,Esq. and MESSRS.THOMAS GRIFFITH, JOHN JONES
and THOMAS HUGHES.
The undated map detail below shows Plas Uchaf, unnamed below field 226,
and the position of the lime kilns. Gwerclas Mansion itself would be just
beyond the bottom left hand corner.
The area around Hafod y calch and Plas Uchaf is a geologically important
“outlier” of Carboniferous limestone. A paper by J. Davies 51 gives a very
comprehensive analysis of the geology of the local area and the image below
((Jenny Lees 2014) shows some of the remaining lime kilns.
17
Following purchase by Rhug estate Plas Uchaf continued to be tenanted and
the following baptisms were recorded in Llangar Parish Records for Plas Uchaf:
1826, 12th March: Ruth Thomas daughter of John and Elinor Jones, lab.
1830, 11th October: Mary Thomas, daughter of John and Ellin, lab.
1831, 15th November: Jane Jones, daughter of Ellis and Margaret, lab (Plas
Ucha)
1833, 21st April: Evan Ellis (Humphreys), base [illegitimate] son of Evan
Humphreys and Jane Ellis, lab. M=Plas Uchaf”
1826, 29 Nov: The burial of a former female inhabitant of Plas Uchaf, surname
Jones and age 78, is recorded at Llanfor.
1838: Apportionment of the Rent-Charge in lieu of tithes for Parish of Llangar, Merioneth (Appendix Five). The image below is an adaptation of the 1838 tithe map 52 to which I have added field names. Plas Uchaf is shown south of Cae Daran.
18
1841 census: Listed within the township of Cymer in Llangar parish, Plass Uchaf accommodates three households. They are headed by 40 year old agricultural labourer Robert Davies, 65 year old agricultural labourer John Thomas and 28 year old shoemaker Hugh Griffith - plus 24 year old shoe maker John Lloyd. (Details in Appendix Six) 1851 census: Plas Uchaf now accommodates four households, headed by 43 year old tailor John Roberts, 25 year old blacksmith Griffith Davies and agricultural labourers David Roberts (28) and Griffith Edwards (34). (Details in Appendix Seven)
19
1861 census: This appears to be missing from the records (Appendix Eight). 1871 census: Plasuchaf [sic] is listed as three separate households, headed by 63 year old tailor John Roberts and 24 year old agricultural labourer Hugh Jones, with a third listed as Uninhabited. (Details in Appendix Nine) There was a local tradition that in the 19th century the upper floor was used as a religious meeting house53
1881 census for Parish of Llangar: Plasuchaf lists two households, headed by
70 year old widow Elizabeth Roberts and 37 year old Owen Roberts, cowman
and labourer. (Details in Appendix Ten)
1888: No children are recorded for Plas Uchaf among nearly two hundred entries in the handwritten document: Parish of Llangar, Children between 3 and 13 years of age (kindly lent by Gwenan Roberts). 1891 census for Parish of Llangar: Plas Uchaf (1) lists only 38 year old Edward Roberts, gardener and his 40 year old sister Catherine, housekeeper. Both were single, born in Llangar and listed as speaking both English and Welsh, while Plas Uchaf (2 ) is listed as `Empty`. (Details in Appendix Eleven) 1901 census: no one is entered under Plas ucha, which is listed together with
Plas Isa as number 44 in District 16 for Llangar parish.
1903, 6th January:
1. Hon. C.H. Wynn. 2. Robert Ireland. MEMORANDUM OF AGREEMENT for tenancy of dwelling house, garden and appurtenances known as Plas Ucha, pa.[rish] Corwen, at an annual rent of £5.0.0.54
1904: In the Corwen Union Valuation List55 for Llangar Plas Uchaf was listed as
numbers 276 and 277; both parts with owner Hon.C.H.Wynn and occupier
David Davis. For each half of the property the Gross Estimated Rental was £3
10 shillings and the Rateable Value of Buildings and other Hereditaments not
being Agricultural Land £3.
1911 census: Two households are listed for Plas Uchaf, headed by 28 year old
carter Robert W.Roberts and 60 year old Quarryman at the Lime Works
William Robert. (Details in Appendix Twelve)
20
XD2/4002: Undated SKETCH PLAN of Plas-uchaf area, near Corwen56 (Not yet
accessed).
1913 In the Poor Law Rate Book57 Plas Uchaf was listed for both numbers 276
and 277. Owner John Owen was listed for both parts, but occupier James
Clarke listed for number 276 only. Valuations for each part were Gross
Estimated Rental £3 10s, Rateable Value of Buildings and other Hereditaments
not being Agricultural Land £3, and Total Amount to be Collected 11s.
1913: Plas Uchaf was described as a tenement when the Ancient Monument
Commission visited. 58
1921: Plas Uchaf was listed as Monument 399 in the Merioneth Inventory. 59
1933, 23rd Oct: TERMS OF TENANCY of Plas Ucha, signed by Lieut. H.H.K. Rowe
[tenant].60
1933: Plas Uchaf was a gamekeeper`s house on the estate of Colonel Vaughan
Wyn when L. Monroe visited.61
The car below pictured outside Plas Uchaf has kindly been identified by Keith
Mountain (personal communication) as: “An early version of the Rover 10/25
Regal manufactured in Coventry between 1933 and 1938.”
21
In 1938 and during WW2 Richard Wilson`s family lived in Plas Uchaf. He
revisited his former home in 1978 and says: 62
“There was an old cast iron range where the big fire is now and there was a
brick fireplace in the lounge built by my father using bricks from the Buckley
Brickworks. Rats infested the top floor; in fact, my father who was a captain in
the Home Guard at that time used to shoot the rats with his pistol – I
remember them coming up holes in the wall! We did not fetch our water from
a well, but from a stream at the bottom of the hill going down to the Bala road
– my father put large drums outside and led a tap inside. He managed the local
limestone quarry and later moved his employment to the milk factory on the
Bala road.”
The image above is from RCAHMW’s 1921 Merioneth Inventory.59 In June
Lister`s fascinating “Life Story Of May Parry Owen”63 she writes:
“I don`t know how May met Jack Parry, but they were married and moved to Plas Uchaf ….
At that time the roof leaked and it was alleged a footpath passed through the main hall …
Jack was a wild character full of bright ideas, as was his father. His father used to pass Plas
Uchaf on his tractor and get May to hang on for dear life as he drove her to Pen y Geulan or
wherever he was going”.
22
When I came to live at neighbouring Hafod y calch64 in 1977 it was still
rumoured locally that a footpath led through Plas Uchaf from front to back!
1960s
Plas Uchaf was sold to a Mr Lloyd Jones of Bala, and after stripping out of the
Elizabethan beams and panelling it was left derelict for ten years65.
However, in the meantime Peter Smith, then Secretary of the Royal
Commission on the Ancient and Historical Monuments of Wales, had thankfully
become very concerned about Plas Uchaf.
Rear view of Plas Uchaf before restoration
In 1964-5 Peter Smith and Ffrancon Lloyd published the article Plas-Ucha,
Llangar, Corwen 66 to draw attention to the building`s historical significance.
Eventually Peter gained the assistance of Colonel A.K. Campbell of Merioneth
Legal Department in securing the council`s agreement to purchase Plas Uchaf
(eventually it was actually gifted to the County by Mr Lloyd Jones). 62
23
Finally, in 1971, Plas Uchaf was leased by the Landmark Trust from Merioneth
County Council and very extensively restored after plans were drawn up by
architect Mr M.T.Pritchard in 1972.62
Since being rescued Plas Uchaf has been let for holidays by the charity
Landmark Trust http://www.landmarktrust.org.uk/search-and-
book/properties/plas-uchaf-10560
Photograph of Plas Uchaf today by courtesy of Gareth Hughes
References and notes
1 Beverley Smith J. and Beverley Smith, Llinos (2001) History of Merioneth
Vol.2: The Middle Ages. Edeirnion became a commote within the medieval
county of Merioneth in 1284, under the Statute of Wales.
2 A.D. Carr, The Barons of Edeyrnion, 1282-1485, Part 1, Journal of the
Merioneth Historical and Record Society Vol.4 (1963) pages 187-93. Also
Part 2 in same journal, Vol.4 (1964) pages 289-99.
24
3 Beverley Smith J. and Beverley Smith, Llinos op. cit. pages 89-90.
4 See letter from Peter Smith in Appendix Thirteen below.
5 Information from J. Conway Davies, The Welsh Assize Roll, p.352,
referenced in A.D. Carr (1963) op.cit. p. 190.
6 A.D. Carr (1963) op.cit.p.189.
7 J.Y.W. Lloyd, 1881, The History of the Princes,the Lords Marcher, and the
ancient Nobility of Powys Fadog,VI, p 43.
8 J.Y.W. Lloyd op.cit. p43
9 P.R.O./SC6/1203/6, referenced in A.D. Carr (1964) op.cit. p. 296.
10 P.R.O./SC6/1203/6, referenced in A.D. Carr (1964) op.cit. p. 296.
11 P.R.O./SC6/1203/7, referenced in A.D. Carr (1964) op.cit. p. 296.
12 J.Y.W. Lloyd op.cit. VI p.43.
13 N.L.W. Wynnstay (1952) 101/80.
14 P.R.O/ SC6/1204/8, referenced in A.D. Carr (1964) op.cit. p.296.
15 Peter Smith (1975) Houses of the Welsh Countryside -a study in historical
geography.
16 Butler, L.A.S. (1964-5) Plas Uchaf in Cymmer, a historical note, Transactions
of the Ancient Monuments Society, Volume 12.
17 J.Y.W. Lloyd (1881)The History of the Princes,the Lords Marcher, and the
ancient Nobility of Powys Fadog, London.
18 Jenny Lees (2014) Cryniarth Rescued for Posterity, in Cynwyd Scrapbook
One published by DOWHG.
19 Edward Arfon Rees (2008) A Life of Guto`r Glyn, Y Lolfa.
20 Gruffydd Aled Williams (2001), The literary tradition to c1560, p.613 in
Beverley Smith J. and Beverley Smith, Llinos (2001) op.cit. See also The
Oxford Book of Welsh Verse (1976 edn. edited by Thomas Parry) p.159,
Oxford University Press.
21 A.D. Carr, The Barons of Edeyrnion, 1282-1485, Part 1, Journal of the
Merioneth Historical and Record Society Vol.4 (1963) page 189.
22 Gwallter Mechain in Burke`s Landed Gentry, 1846, p.608, referenced in A.D.
Carr (1963) op.cit. p.191.
23 A.D. Carr (1963) op.cit. p.191.
24 John Davies, A Display of Heraldry, p.32, referenced in A.D. Carr (1963)
op.cit. p.191.
25
25 Richard Suggett and Margaret Dunn (2014) Discovering the Historic Houses
of Snowdonia, pp.96-100, Royal Commission on the Ancient and Historic
Monuments of Wales. See also Branas Ucha – a house history, http://www.peoplescollection.wales/
26 L. Monroe (1933). "Plas Ucha, Llangar, Merioneth". Arch Camb. p. 82.
27 Richard Suggett and Margaret Dunn op. cit. p.99
28 L. Monroe (1933) op.cit.p.83.
29 J.Y.W. Lloyd, 1881, The History of the Princes,the Lords Marcher, and the
ancient Nobility of Powys Fadog, VI, p.42.
30 XD2/1244; N.L.W. Rug 57.
31 Jenny Lees (2013) Quest for Cymer Part One, in the Clwyd Historian /Hanes
Bro Clwyd, Gaeaf/Winter 13/14, Rhif/No. 69.
32 Crosse of Shaw Hill records of the family of Thelwall of Nantclwyd,
Bathafarn Park and Plas Coch, co. Denbigh, and of the associated families of
Parry of Nantclwyd and Ruthin, Gethin of Cernioge and Kenrick of Woore,
co. Salop, London and Chester, Lancashire RO. Schedule (1947), 276 pages,
Annual Report 1946-47, pp. 36-38.
33 Edward Brynllys in Yr hen ardd Gymreig: Chwedl Edward Brynllys am ardd
Gwerclas Meirionydd, yn 1609, Welsh Journals Online, Lleufer, 1955,
Cyf.11, Rh. 2.Haf. See also p.3 of Jenny Lees (2015) History of Gwerclas,
published by Discovering Old Welsh Houses Group (D.O.W.H.G)
http://datingoldwelshhouses.co.uk/library-h/house-history.html
34 Trefor O. Jones (1975) O Ferwyn I Fynyddlod, p.21, Cymdeithas Llyfrau
Meirion.
35 1682 Will and Inventory of Humphrey Hughes ,St Asaph Probate Records
(SA1682/229).
36 Transcription by W.F. Irvine of Lay Subsidy Roll in William Ferguson Irvine
Collection of Llangar and Edeirnion papers, Meirionnydd Record Office
(Z/M/344/ 16-18). Also Owen Parry, 1953, The Hearth Tax of 1662 in
Journal of the Merioneth Historical and Record Society Vol. II (I).
37 The Notitiae of the Parishes of the Diocese of St Asaph, DRO NTD / 1829;
(SA/MISC/1492).
38 Transcription by Merfyn Wyn Tomos (2014) A Memorandum Book (1662-
74) of Humffrey Hughes, Gwerclas, Journal of the Merioneth Historical and
Record Society, Vol. XVII, Part I, pp. 1-25.
26
39 Will of Dorothy Maysmor, Gwerkles, Llangar, Spinster, St Asaph Probate
records (SA/1713/112).
40 Llangar Parish Records, burial of Magdalen, Mrs Hughes, Gwerclas on 18th
August, 1733.
41 Norman Tucker, 2003, The Civil War in North Wales and Chester; also
History of Gwerclas by Jenny Lees, op.cit.
42 1682 Will and Inventory of Humphrey Hughes, op.cit.
43 Edward Llwyd (1695) Parochialia, (at Denbighshire Record Office).
44 Llangar Parish Records, transcribed by Clwyd Family History Society in
1996.
45 Transcription by Pam Buttrey of Indenture 4 parts, 17 April 1766, from the
Galltfaenan MSS concerning the estates of the Salusbury family of
Galltfaenan (DD/GA/652).
46 Letter transcribed by Jenny Lees from the NLW collection Elizabeth Baker
183 to 232: Letters written between1772 and1775 by Margaret Lloyd to
Elizabeth Baker.
47 Will of David Jones, Plas Ucha, written 19th Oct.1819 (S/A 1820 111).
48 LLanfor burials: 8 Jan 1820, David Jones aged 70, Plas uchaf, Llangar
(Information from Pam Buttrey).
49 XD2/ 3887: Sale catalogue of property of the late Richard Hughes Lloyd
50 XD2/3888: Schedule of Gwerclas Mansion and Demesne lands; note on
catalogue says “as it was before being mostly purchased by Rug in 1824.”
51 Davies, Jeremy R, Riley, Nick J. and Wilson, David, The Corwen Outlier and
its implications for the mid-Mississippian palaeogeography of North Wales,
U.K. Geographical Journal 2013.
52 Apportionment of the Rent-Charge in lieu of tithes for Parish of Llangar,
Merioneth, 1838, 25 September (NLW: AC388/R3).
53 Information from The Landmark Trust`s booklet Plas Uchaf, researched and
written by Clayre Percy.
54 1. Hon. C.H. Wynn. 2. Robert Ireland. MEMORANDUM OF AGREEMENT for tenancy of dwelling house, garden and appurtenances known as Plas Ucha, pa.[rish] Corwen, at an annual rent of £5.0.0.
55 1904 Corwen Union Valuation List for Llangar. (Document kindly lent by
June Lister).
56 Not yet accessed
27
57 An Assessment for the Relief of the Poor of the Parish of Llangar in the
County of Merioneth and for other purposes chargeable thereon according
to Law (1913, January. Handwritten record book kindly lent by June Lister.
58 Information from The Landmark Trust`s booklet Plas Uchaf, op.cit.
59 L. A. S. Butler, Plas-Uchaf in Cymmer: A Historical Note, Transactions of the
Ancient Monuments Society, Vol.12, 1964-5.
60 XD2/2131(1933, 23rd Oct) TERMS OF TENANCY of Plas Ucha, signed by Lieut.
H.H.K. Rowe [tenant].
61 Monroe, L (1933) op.cit.p. 81.
62 Information from The Landmark Trust`s booklet Plas Uchaf, op.cit.
63 Life Story Of May Parry Owen by June Lister(2014) in Cynwyd Scrapbook
One published by DOWHG.
64 Jenny Lees, History of Hafod y calch (2013) on the website
http://datingoldwelshhouses.co.uk/library-h/house-history.html
65 Information from The Landmark Trust`s booklet Plas Uchaf op.cit.
66 Peter Smith and Ffrancon Lloyd (1964-5) Plas-Ucha, Llangar, Corwen,
Transactions of the Ancient Monuments Society, Volume 12.
http://ancientmonumentssociety.org.uk/transactions/
Appendix One
Possiblities for site of the original abode of the Barons of Cymer
We do not yet know where the earliest Barons of Cymer lived, but Gwerclas
Mound, close to the present house, was previously thought to be the possible
site of their medieval castle. However, current archaeological views are that it
may be Bronze Age but could be of even earlier origin. The Coflein site of the
Royal Commission on the Ancient and Historical Monuments of Wales
described it in 2002 as follows:
A circular mound set on the edge of a river terrace 14m diameter and 2m high with kerbing
noted to the E. side. Set in a landscaped garden/park (Nprn 265146), this is a rejected castle
site possibly adopted as a prospect mound (RCAHMW) AP955025/ 57-8.
http://www.coflein.gov.uk/en/site/306597/details/GWERCLAS+MOUND%3BTHE+MOUNT/
So where else could they have lived before settling at Plas Uchaf by around
1435? We don`t know where Owain Brogontyn himself actually lived, but
28
Cynwyd was thought to be the seat of his original Maerdref or demesne,2 and
in 1207 Owain granted lands in the commote of Dinmael to Valle Crucis.1 (p139)
Originally Owain `s son Iorwerth was granted the barony of both Cymer and
Llangar, then these two domains were divided between between Iorwerth`s
sons Elise and Gruffudd, with Gruffudd becoming Baron of Cymer and Elise
Baron of Llangar. There is a 1292 reference to their demesne lands being the
township of Faerdref Isaf and called Maerdref Elise and Gruffudd.1 (p147)
Gruffudd ap Iorwerth was still active in 1285 when he was among the parties
to an agreement between the Welsh and Scottish Lords1 (139-40). In 1334 fourth
Lord of Cymer Owain ap Dafydd1 (p143) attended quo warranto proceedings at
Harlech and in 1348 both Owain and his brother Llywelyn attended further
such proceedings.
The Cymer barony could have been an older house on the same site as Plas o
Kymmer, or on the present sites of Gwerclas, Hafod y calch, Cae Mawr
(previously called Cefn Cymer), Glan Alwen or even Plas Isaf. We know the
names of the Barons who lived there, but evidence for the exact location of
their home or homes before they built Plas o Kymmer is yet to be found.
Appendix Two: Part of Lineage of Barons of Cymer from Powys Fadog Vol 6
page 44:
29
(Continued on page 45 of Powys Fadog reproduced below)
30
Appendix Three: The drawing below from Peter Smith`s Houses of the Welsh
Countryside shows the construction of Plas o Kymmer
31
Appendix Four: Plas Isaf history from Powys Fadog Vol 6 p.42
32
33
Appendix Five: Apportionment of the Rent-Charge in lieu of tithes - Parish of
Llangar, Merioneth (28 September 1838), N.L W. Plas Uchaf does not seem to
be listed separately, but the land around it is contained within the listings for
landowner Griffith Howel Vaughan with occupier Edward Williams.
Number Referring to the Plan
Name and Description of Lands and Premises
Quantities in Statute Measure
Amount of Rent-Charge apportioned upon the Several Lands, and Payable to the Rector
A. R. P.
219 Gwerclas Buildings Land & Wood
11 1 30
220 Plantation 1 2 10
221 Gamog fawr 8 3 19
222 Cefn rhidyn 6 .. 38
223 Cefn glas ucha 2 2 20
224 Goppa 2 2 3
225 Cae gwyn 7 .. ..
226 Cae Daran 4 .. 14
227 Coppa Diri 6 2 1
228 Coed Coppa Diri 1 .. 32
229 Cae r odyn 10 2 19
230 Saith cyfer 4 1 1
231 Cefn y fedwen 11 3 19
232 Cefn clover 6 3 33
233 Cefn eithen 10 3 12
234 Cefn rails 9 3 19
235 Cae garreg 3 2 7
236 Cae hir 13 1 8
237 Nant y gall 2 1 6
238 Coed y ddol 26 1 8
239 Caer r bont 13 1 17
240 Pwll cowarch 3 3 12
241 Pen ddol (?)union 12 .. ..
242 Gwernydd 8 .. 8
243 Ddol fawr 14 2 ..
244 Ddol uchaf 8 .. ..
245 Ddol wenith 17 3 12
[Total] 229 1 28
£37 15s 6d
34
Appendix Six: 1841 census for Mer. Llangar, District 5A, Township of Cymer, Plass Uchaf Born in the parish?
1.Robert Davies 40 Agricultural labourer Yes
Ann Davies 37 Yes
Robert Davies 15 Yes
Sushana Davies 9 Yes
David Davies 7 Yes
Thomas Davies 5 Yes
Eleanor Davies 9 months Yes
1.Hugh Griffith 28 Shoe maker Yes
Margaret Griffith 28 No
Hugh Griffith 8 Yes
Catherine Griffith 7 Yes
David Griffith 5 Yes
Edward Griffith 3 Yes
John Griffith 9 months Yes
John Lloyd 24 Shoe maker No
1.John Thomas 65 Agricultural labourer No
Ellinor Thomas 55 No
May Thomas 11 Yes
Appendix Seven: 1851 census. Plas Uchaf is listed as 3 separate households.
Name and Surname
Relation to head of family
Condition Age Rank, Profession or Occupation
Where Born
No. 33: John Roberts
Head M [married] 43 Tailor Corwen, Mer.
Elizabeth R. Wife M 39 Llantysilo, Den.
Jane Roberts Daughter 12 Llangar, Mer.
Robert R. Son 6 Llangar, Mer.
Catherine R. Daughter 10 mo. Llangar, Mer.
No.34: Griffith Davies
Head 25 Blacksmith Corwen, Mer.
Elizabeth D. Wife M 29 Bodfari, Den.
No.35: David Roberts
Head M 28 Agricultural labourer
Llandrillo, Mer.
Catherine Roberts
Wife M 29 Cerrig Y Drudion Den.
No.36: Griffith
Head M 34 Agricultural labourer
Llanycil, Mer.
35
Edwards
Elizabeth E. Wife M 31 (or age 51?) Llandderfel, Mer.
Appendix Eight: 1861 census. This appears to be missing from the records (but can be added if found subsequently elsewhere). Appendix Nine: 1871 census. Plasuchaf is listed as 3 separate dwellings Name and Surname
Relation to head of family
Condition Age Rank, Profession or Occupation
Where Born
(9) John Roberts
Head Mar[ried] 63 Tailor Merioneth Corwen
Elizabeth Roberts
Wife .. 60 Denbigh Llandiesilio
Edward Roberts
Son Unmarried 18 Tailor Merioneth Llangar
Catherine Roberts
Daughter .. 20 ..
(10)Hugh Jones
Head Mar. 24 Labourer Ag. ..
Gwen Jones Wife Mar. 30 Merioneth Llanuwchllyn
Catherine Jones
Daughter Unmarried 1 Merioneth Gwyddelwern
(11) Uninhabited
Appendix Ten: 1881 census for Merioneth, parish of Llangar, District 5, Plasuchaf
Name and Surname
Relation to head of family
Condition Age Rank, Profession or Occupation
Where Born
No.8
Elizabeth Roberts
Head Widow 70 Denbigh, Pentrefelin
Catherine Daughter Unmarried 30 Mer, Plasychaf [sic]
John Son Unmarried 40 Labourer .. Mer, Plasychaf
Edward Son Unmarried 28 [?] Gardener Mer, Plasychaf
36
No.9
Owen Roberts
Head Married 37 Cowman Labourer
Mer, Llanuwchllyn
Jane R. Wife Married 36 Mer, Llanuwchllyn
Jane R. Daughter 9 Mer, Llangar
Elizabeth R. Daughter 3 Mer, Llangar
Catherine R. Daughter 1 Mer, Llangar
Edward Jones
Lodger Unmarried 24 Farm Labourer
Mer, Llanuwchllyn
Margaret Jones
Visitor Unmarried 21 Mer, Llanuwchllyn
Appendix Eleven: 1891 census for parish of Llangar, listed as number 21
Name and Surname
Relation to head of family
Condition Age Rank, Profession or Occupation
Where Born
Edward Roberts
Head S (single) 38 Gardener Llangar
Catherine Roberts
Sister S 40 Housekeeper Llangar
Appendix Twelve: 1911 census for Plas Uchaf. No.1 was completed in Welsh, to which I have added English equivalents, and No.2 completed in English. Name of Head of Family or Separate Occupier
Personal Occupation
Languages spoken
No.1.Robert W.Roberts
Penteulu [Head of family]
28 Briod [Married]
Certiwr ar ffarm [Carter on farm]
Meirionydd, Llandrillo
Cymraeg
Ann J.Roberts Gwraig [wife]
23 Briod Meirionydd, Betws
Robert J.Roberts
Mab [son] 1 Meirionydd, Betws
Evan Roberts Brawd [brother]
33 Gweddw Certiwr ar ffarm
Denbs, Brymbo
No.2. William Roberts
Head 60 Married Quarryman Lime Works
Mer. Cynwyd Welsh
Maria Roberts Wife 53 Married Mer. Corwen
Maggie .. Daughter 12 Single School Mer. Llangar
Appendix Thirteen
37
Letter provided by courtesy of Mrs Betsi Jones, Plas Isaf (personal communicatio)
Jenny Lees, 1st May 2016 [email protected]
38