deat 014 ls formal shirt deat...men’s formal shirt deat 014 october 2007 deat 014 october 2007 doc...

PRIVATE SPECIFICATION Prepared for the

Department of Environmental Affairs and Tourism

MEN’S FORMAL SHIRT

O

DEAT 014 ctober 2007

DEAT 014 October 2007

Doc Issue Page No of pages

This specification covers the material, cut and make of long sleeved shirts for male personnel of the Department of Environmental Affairs and Tourism. For the purpose of this specification, the definitions given in SANS 10371 “Terms and definitions for clothing” and the following shall apply: acceptable: acceptable to the Department of Environmental Affairs and Tourism DEAT: Department of Environmental Affairs and Tourism nominal: subject to the tolerances normal to good manufacturing practice. SANS: South African National Standard

1. Scope

2. Definitions

3. Style

♦ laid-on button stand ♦ front button fastening ♦ two piece collar ♦ closed neck ♦ one breast pocket ♦ double back yoke ♦ one-piece sleeve ♦ cuff with blunted corners ♦ straight side seams and bottom hem

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4. Illustrations


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No materials will be supplied by DEAT. ♦ The materials specified in 6 and 7 are to be supplied and used by the manufacturer (unless otherwise specified in the order or contract) A trim chart containing a sample of each component material (as given in 7) must accompany the pre-production samples The outer material shall: ♦ comply with the requirements of SANS 1387-9 "Woven cotton and similar apparel fabrics Part 9: Polyester-and-cotton shirt fabrics" ♦ be an acceptable match to colour No: 1c-05 “White” or No. 167c-06 “Black” of CKS 129 NB – Three metres of outer material must be submitted to the purchaser for colour registration purposes.

7. Component materials

5. Materials - General

6. Outer material

7.1 Interlining ♦ which complies with the requirements of CKS 627 ♦ fusible woven or non-woven interlining ♦ suitable for use in garments which may be washed The selection of interlining of appropriate mass per unit area to be determined by consultation with the supplier of the interlining. 7.2 Stiffeners ♦ an acceptable adhesive (stick on) clear plastics material ♦ attached to a patch of outer material that is shaped to suit the collar point ♦ to be of finished length 45 mm and width 15 mm ♦ nominal thickness 0,05 mm

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7.3 Buttons ♦ two-hole buttons ♦ nominal diameter of 12 mm ♦ clear plastics ♦ shall comply with the requirement of SANS 1457 7.4 Threads ♦ to comply with relevant requirements of SANS 1362 ♦ colour to be an acceptable match to colour of the outer material sewing, buttonhole and top-stitching thread: ♦ polyester-and-cotton core-spun or staple polyester thread ♦ ticket No. 120 overlocking thread: ♦ crimp-textured polyester ♦ ticket No 140

8. Workmanship

The shirts shall be: ♦ cut and made with first-class workmanship throughout ♦ of uniform and acceptable make, colour and finish Shall be free from: ♦ defects, that affect their appearance or may affect their serviceability (or both) ♦ marks ♦ spots ♦ stains, incurred in the making-up Seams and stitches shall be: ♦ smooth and uniform ♦ free from twists, pleats and puckers ♦ sufficiently extensible to avoid seam cracking and undue shrinkage in use Ends of sewing shall be: ♦ trimmed and loose threads removed ♦ back-tacked if unsecured

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9. Sizes

Shirt measurements

MEASURING POINT

DESCRIPTION G - G Collar length Measure in a straight line from the centre of the button to

the outer edge of the buttonhole.

A - A Chest circumference Measure at the base of the scye, with garment spread completely flat, and multiply by two.

B - B Back width Measure across the width of the back at the yoke-to-back panel seam, from sleeve seam to sleeve seam.

C - C Back length Measure from the centre back neck seam to the bottom edge of the garment.

A - D Sleeve length Measure from the base of the scye to the outer edge of the sleeve.

E - E Cuff circumference Measure the width at the centre of a buttoned up cuff (first button) and multiply by two.

C - F Depth of scye Measure from the centre back neck to the level of the base of the scye.

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Table 1 – Size designation

1 2 3 4 5 6 7 8 Nominal finished garment measurements, cm Size

desig- nation1)

Collar length

Chest circumference

Back width

Back length

Sleeve length

Cuff circumference

Depth of Scye

32 33 34 35 36 37 38 39 40 41 42 43 44 45 46 47 48 49 50 51 52

33 34 35 36 37 38 39 40 41 42 43 44 45 46 47 48 49 50 51 52 53

90 94 98 102 106 110 114 118 122 126 130 134 138 142 146 150 154 158 162 166 170

42 43 44 45 46 47 48 49 50 51 52 53 54 55 56 57 58 59 60 61 62

77 77 77 79 79 79 81 81 81 83 83 83 85 85 85 85 86 86 86 86 86

52 52 52,5 52,5 53 53 53,5 53,5 54 54 54,5 54,5 55 55 55,5 55,5 56 56 56,5 56,5 57

21 21 21 22 22 22 23 23 23 24 24 24 25 25 25 26 26 26 27 27 27

27 27,5 28 28,5 29 29,5 30 30,5 31 31,5 32 32,5 33 33,5 34 34,5 35 35,5 36 36,5 37

1) Based in accordance on the neck size, in centimetres, of the intended wearer. 2) Given as guidance only.

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Illustrations are not to scale and are for guidance only, and unless inconsistent with the text, all measurements are nominal.

10.1 Fronts Front shall have: ♦ a cut-on facing and buttons (right front) ♦ a laid-on buttonhole stand and buttonholes (left front) ♦ a pocket on the left front ♦ a straight hem straight side seams ♦

Right centre front shall be: ♦ cut-on and folded inwards - interlined with interlining - of finished width 30 mm - overlocked on the free edges Left centre front shall be: ♦ a laid-on buttonhole stand

10. Make

- of outer material - interlined with interlining - of finished width 30 mm - edge-stitched 2 mm along both edges Buttonholes shall be: ♦ vertical, shirt-type ♦ of finished length 15 mm ♦ neatly made and barred at each end ♦ positioned 15 mm from the front edge on the left front ♦ positioned with the second buttonhole from the top is in line with the top edge of the pocket mouth ♦ with the first buttonhole equidistantly spaced between the buttonhole on the collar and the second buttonhole ♦ with the remaining four buttonholes equidistantly spaced at 8-10 cm intervals depending on size Buttons shall be: ♦ positioned on the right front ♦ in corresponding positions to that of the relevant buttonholes on the left front

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10.2 Collar Collar shall be: ♦ two piece ♦ lined with outer material ♦ fused with interlining as follows - top collar interlined with interlining - collar stand interlined with interlining (excluding the neck and centre front seams) - top collar interlined with a separate patch of interlining (excluding all seams) ♦ interlined with a patch of outer material with the stiffener facing up when stitching, shall be inserted between the top and under collar at the points ♦ fastened with a button and buttonhole ♦ flat (i.e. free from curl) and smooth ♦ of finished length 70 mm at the points Collar shall have: ♦ a 30 mm collar stand ♦ a 45 mm centre back collar fall ♦ a 6 mm top-stitching from the free edges ♦ a buttonhole - horizontal - centrally positioned, 10 mm from the left front collar stand edge ♦ a button at the right front collar stand - positioned appropriately leaving a gap of 10 mm between the upper edges of the collar

Interlining

Patch of interlin


COLLAR STAND

TOP COLLAR

Patch of outer material

Stiffener

ing

Interlining

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Doc Is

10.3 Pockets Pocket shall be: ♦ a patch pocket ♦ square ♦ positioned with the pocket mouth 21 cm from the neck-to-shoulder point on size designation 39 - graded proportionally for smaller and bigger sizes ♦ positioned with the sides parallel to the front edge - for shirts of size designation 35 cm and smaller > 60 mm from the front edge - for shirts of size designation 36 cm to 39 cm > 70 mm from the front edge - for shirts of size designation 40 cm to 45 cm > 80 mm from the front edge - for shirts of size designation 46 cm to 52 cm > 90 mm from the front edge ♦ of finished width and depth - for shirts of size designation 39 cm and smaller > 13 cm and 14 cm respectively - for shirts of size designation 40 cm and bigger > 14 cm and 15 cm respectively Pocket shall have: ♦ a pocket mouth hem

- folded in 25 mm - raw edge turned-in 5 mm

- stitched down 20 mm from folded edge ♦ secured corners with a box tack ♦ 10 mm turned-in side and bottom raw edges ♦ 2 mm stitching from the turned-in side and bottom edges ♦ an embroidered “EMI” logo

- of design, colour and size as required by DEAT - positioned appropriately in the pocket

10.4 Back Back shall have: ♦ a double yoke extending 20 mm forward of the shoulder seam ♦ of finished depth 11 cm at centre back ♦ a straight hem

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10.5 Sleeves Sleeves shall be: ♦ one-piece, set-in ♦ shirt-type, long Sleeves shall have: ♦ a cuff ♦ a laid-on placket of outer material at the opening - of finished length 18 cm (measured to the buttonhole) - of finished width 25 mm ♦ two knife pleats of finished depth 20 mm - first pleat 20 mm from the placket seam

- second pleat 20 mm from the first pleat (towards the forearm)

20mm

Overarm

Knife pleats

60m

m

Placket

20mm

18cm

10.6 Cuffs Cuff shall be: ♦ of outer material ♦ interlined with interlining ♦ lined with outer material ♦ of finished depth 60 mm Cuff shall have: ♦ blunted corners ♦ a 6 mm top-stitch from the edge ♦ one buttonhole - centrally positioned, 15 mm from the edge ♦ two buttons

- centrally positioned - first button shall be 15 mm from the edge - second button shall be 20 mm from the first button

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10.7 Buttons Two spare buttons shall be: ♦ positioned on the inside of the right front edge ♦ near the bottom hem of the shirt

10.8 Bottom hem Hem shall be: ♦ double folded of finished width 6 mm ♦ straight 11.1 Stitches ain seaming: safety stitch m

o verlocking: three-thread overlocking stitch

other stitches: single needle lock stitch NB – The shoulder, back yoke and armhole seams shall be stitched down 7 mm 11.2 Seams S

eams to be at least 10 mm wide:

Armhole, sleeve and side seams: seam type SSa Superimpose two or more plies of material and seam with the appropriate number of rows of titches positioned at the specific distance(s) from the aligned edges. s Collar edges: seam type SSe-2

11. Stitches, seams and stitchings

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Form seam Type SSa-1, using two plies of material. Then turn back each ply at the seam and seam rough the turned edges with the appropriate number of rows of stitches. th

Pockets to shirts: seam type LSd-1 Turn in the edge of one ply of material, lap it on the body of a second ply (at the specified distance from the edge of the second ply), and seam with the appropriate number of rows of stitches. 11.3 Stitchings All exposed raw edges: stitching type EFd Stitch over the edge of a ply of material with one row of stitches. Hems: stitching type EFb-1 Turn in the specified width at the edge of a ply of material, fold back the turned edge, and stitch the turned-in and folded portion with the appropriate number of rows of stitches.

11.4 Number of stitches s eaming and top-stitching: 40 ± 4 per 10 cm

overlocking: 32 ± 4 per 10 cm buttonholes: 12 ± 1 per 1 cm buttons: 12 ± 1 per button

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12. Packing, care-labelling and marking

12.1 Packing The shirts shall be: ♦ so packed that they will not be damaged in transit or in storage ♦ neatly folded around a piece of cardboard of suitable size and shape, with the collar supported by a plastics material or cardboard, and individually packed in a plastics envelope of suitable size and shape - only plastics clips shall be used in the folding and presentation of a shirt ♦ unless otherwise specified in the order or contract, acceptably packed for transportation in acceptable bulk containers Shirts: ♦ of the same size designation to be packed together in a container (unless quantities ordered are such that packing together of the same size only is not justified) ♦ of different size designations may also be packed together to accommodate the last part of an order or contract

12.2 Care-labelling

‚ Each garment to have a woven or printed label that is permanently secured and that provides (in accordance with SANS 10011) correct and appropriate care instructions and the fibre composition of the fabric (in accordance with the requirements of SANS 10235) ‚ printed labels to comply with the requirements of SANS 1309 ‚ all care-labels and their markings to be such that they outlast the garments

12.3 Marking 1 2.3.1 Shirts:

Each shirt to have, attached to the yoke on the inside, below the collar and sewn along all four sides, a woven fabric label that complies with the requirements of SANS 1309 and provides the following information in legible and indelible block letters of height at least 3 mm: ♦ the manufacturer's name or trade mark or both ♦ the size designation ♦ the year of manufacture 12.3.2 Envelopes Each envelope to be clearly marked with the following information: ♦ the designation, i.e “Men’s formal shirt” ♦ the size designation 12.3.3 Containers

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Each bulk container to have a label securely attached to the outside visible when the containers are stacked and providing the following information: ♦ the manufacturer's name or trade mark or both ♦ the size designation ♦ the designation, i.e “Men’s formal shirt" ♦ the year of manufacture ‚ the quantity

12.4 Additional marking When so required by DEAT, shirts, envelopes or containers (or any combination of these) to bear information additional to that specified above.

13. Normative references

The following standards contain provisions which, through reference in this text, constitute provisions of this specification. All standards are subject to revision and, since any reference to a standard is deemed to be a reference to the latest edition of a standard, parties to agreements based on this specification are encouraged to take steps to ensure the use of the most recent editions of the standards indicated below. Information on currently valid national and international standards may be obtained from Standards South Africa. CKS 129, Colours for textiles. CKS 627, Fusible interlinings. SANS 1309, Printed labels for textiles. SANS 1457, Plastic buttons. SANS 1362, Sewing threads. SANS 1387-9, Woven cotton and similar apparel fabrics Part 9: Polyester -and-cotton shirt fabrics. SANS 10011 (SABS 011), Care-labelling of textiles and clothing.

SANS 10235, Fibre-content labelling of textiles and textile products. SANS 10371, Terms and definitions for clothing.

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Annex A (normative)

Special conditions of tender

General 1. Unless otherwise stated, DEAT (or an officer or organization deputed by it), shall be the inspecting authority. 2. Three pre-production sample shirts, shall have been inspected, tested and approved by the inspecting authority before bulk production is commenced. Each one of these samples shall be accompanied by a trim chart containing a sample of each component material (as given in 6 and 7) and the relevant certificates. It shall be the duty of the manufacturer to give adequate notice to the inspecting authority of the availability of these samples. 3. The shirts shall be subject to inspection during the course of manufacture. The inspector shall, during normal working hours, be given all reasonable facilities for carrying out his duties and shall have the right of entry into the contractor's factory and the factory or works of any subcontractor where work on shirts supplied to this specification may be in progress. 4.The contractor shall inspect the finished shirts for compliance with the specification before submitting them to the inspecting authority for final inspection. 5. Before acceptance, the shirts shall have been inspected and tested by the inspecting authority and found to comply with the requirements of the specification. 6. One container of each consignment shall be marked "DOCUMENTS" and shall, in addition to shirts, contain the following: ♦ the packing slip / delivery note; ♦ where applicable, the inspection certificate(s); and ♦ a copy of the invoice containing the following: - the order number; - the financial authority number; and - a full description of the consignment, i.e. items, quantity, sizes, etc.

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deat 014 ls formal shirt deat...men’s formal shirt deat 014 october 2007 deat 014 october 2007 doc...

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