Declaration of a foodistDeclaration of a foodist

Part 1Part 1 The foodie and his food

Part 2Part 2 The importance of food.

The foodie and his foodThe foodie and his food

Childhood:Childhood:– Mother as an credible foodie;Mother as an credible foodie;– Enormous difficulties to be a foodie: Enormous difficulties to be a foodie:

1.1. Scarcity;Scarcity;2.2. Political ideology: Political ideology: ““[to conduct] the revolution is not [to conduct] the revolution is not

inviting guests to dinner parties.inviting guests to dinner parties.”” -- -- Chairman Mao, 1927, 1927 American journey:American journey:

– Food as an anchor of identityFood as an anchor of identity– Food as compassFood as compass– The intellectual of mundane situations in everyday life

A purpose of these discussions: reveal my A purpose of these discussions: reveal my subjectivity and limitation; explain my topic subjectivity and limitation; explain my topic choice.choice.

The importance of The importance of foodfood

1.1. The State of the Field: The State of the Field: Historiography

2. Reasons for our failure to fully recognize the importance of food

3. The importance of food

The state of the field: HistoriographyThe state of the field: Historiography

Food historians often have to explain and defend their subject Food historians often have to explain and defend their subject matter: – matter: – the lack of adequate understanding of the the lack of adequate understanding of the importance of food as a subject of vigorous academic importance of food as a subject of vigorous academic inquiryinquiry

HistoriographyHistoriography: : the existing scholarship or a body of the existing scholarship or a body of literature, on a given topic. It also covers theories and literature, on a given topic. It also covers theories and methodologies in historical research and writing. methodologies in historical research and writing.

Increasing interest in food among historians and other Increasing interest in food among historians and other scholars.scholars.

Reasons for this increase:Reasons for this increase:– concern over health and food safety;concern over health and food safety;– The popularity of food as entertainment;The popularity of food as entertainment;– Popular writers have also come to the realm of food:Popular writers have also come to the realm of food:

Dan Koeppel, Dan Koeppel, Banana: The Fate of the Fruit that Changed the World (2008)Banana: The Fate of the Fruit that Changed the World (2008) Michael Pollan, Michael Pollan, The OmnivoreThe Omnivore’’s Dilemmas Dilemma (2006) (2006) Jacques Pépin, Jacques Pépin, The Apprentice (2003);The Apprentice (2003); King CornKing Corn (2007) Directed by Aaron Woolf. Starring Earl L. Butz, Ian Cheney, (2007) Directed by Aaron Woolf. Starring Earl L. Butz, Ian Cheney,

Curt Ellis. Curt Ellis.

Limitations of food studies in American history Limitations of food studies in American history in terms of in terms of influence and scope.influence and scope.

Limitations of food studies in Limitations of food studies in general:general:– Apparent holesApparent holes– Not a coherent field of study yet.Not a coherent field of study yet.– We have not yet recognized the over importance of food. We have not yet recognized the over importance of food.

The declaration of a foodist: The centrality of food in human historyThe declaration of a foodist: The centrality of food in human history

a. Foodie vs foodist b. Human Desire

c.c. The declaration of a foodist: The declaration of a foodist: Food is the most important and most fundamental desire

Human DesireHuman Desire Definition:Definition:

– Desire is a longing of the desiring individual to bring objects Desire is a longing of the desiring individual to bring objects or conditions into oneor conditions into one’’s possession or existence. Desire, s possession or existence. Desire, then, is the attempt of self-consciousness to realize itself by then, is the attempt of self-consciousness to realize itself by connecting to what is other than itself. It is the most connecting to what is other than itself. It is the most fundamental driving force for all human activities. It is fundamental driving force for all human activities. It is source of human energy and creativity; it can also be source of human energy and creativity; it can also be extremely harmful.extremely harmful.

Variety of desires: Variety of desires: – emotional vs. materialemotional vs. material– personal vs. socialpersonal vs. social– Desires change over timeDesires change over time– Innate vs Innate vs ““deliberatedeliberate”” (Aristotle) desires (Aristotle) desires – Natural vs social: Natural vs social:

Karl Marx Karl Marx –– necessities and luxuries; necessities and luxuries; John Kenneth Galbraith (author of John Kenneth Galbraith (author of The Affluent SocietyThe Affluent Society): The ): The

"Dependence Effect" "Dependence Effect"

Of all these kinds of desires, food represents the Of all these kinds of desires, food represents the most important and most fundamental.most important and most fundamental.

American history as food history American history as food history

as symbols of the country;as symbols of the country;– Affluence;Affluence;– Notes on the State of VirginiaNotes on the State of Virginia (1785) (1785)

as symbols of the country;as symbols of the country; as an index to increased diversity;as an index to increased diversity; Changes in life styleChanges in life style

Wednesday, January 12, 2005 Wednesday, January 12, 2005 The Morning Read: Dipping into melting potThe Morning Read: Dipping into melting pot

UCI professor chows down with an eye on the future of ethnic food and culture UCI professor chows down with an eye on the future of ethnic food and culture in America. in America.

By MARLA JO FISHERBy MARLA JO FISHER The Orange County Register The Orange County Register

Yong Chen leans over his chopsticks, which are dripping with stewed squid, and Yong Chen leans over his chopsticks, which are dripping with stewed squid, and reflects on his obsession with food.reflects on his obsession with food.

He isn't exactly sure when it began or when it started taking over his life. Maybe He isn't exactly sure when it began or when it started taking over his life. Maybe it was in the Chinese re-education camp where he was sent with his parents as it was in the Chinese re-education camp where he was sent with his parents as a child. a child.

Maybe it was later, when he studied history at Cornell University, before he Maybe it was later, when he studied history at Cornell University, before he became a popular associate professor of history and Asian- American studies at became a popular associate professor of history and Asian- American studies at UC Irvine. UC Irvine.

Now, when he's not teaching, he's writing a book about the cultural significance Now, when he's not teaching, he's writing a book about the cultural significance of ethnic food in America. And, when he's not writing, he's eating. When he's of ethnic food in America. And, when he's not writing, he's eating. When he's not eating, he's collecting old cookbooks, restaurant menus, diaries and poring not eating, he's collecting old cookbooks, restaurant menus, diaries and poring over vintage business directories, all in a quest to link food and culture, food over vintage business directories, all in a quest to link food and culture, food and memory.and memory.

"Taste is always acquired, and we acquire our tastes very early on," Chen says. "Taste is always acquired, and we acquire our tastes very early on," Chen says. "You don't need to read philosophy to understand a culture. Sometimes, it's "You don't need to read philosophy to understand a culture. Sometimes, it's much more mundane, like the food."much more mundane, like the food."

Chen's research not only seeks to trace the phenomenal rise of ethnic foods in Chen's research not only seeks to trace the phenomenal rise of ethnic foods in this country but to describe how food is important to culture and a society.this country but to describe how food is important to culture and a society.

Chen, 44, recalls a Republican TV ad he saw before the election that negatively Chen, 44, recalls a Republican TV ad he saw before the election that negatively depicted presidential candidate Howard Dean as a sophisticate eating sushi and depicted presidential candidate Howard Dean as a sophisticate eating sushi and drinking lattes. "Republicans don't eat sushi," Chen jokes. drinking lattes. "Republicans don't eat sushi," Chen jokes.

But, as his book will show, over the past 10 years, ethnic food has become not But, as his book will show, over the past 10 years, ethnic food has become not only a cultural but also a commercial phenomenon in America.only a cultural but also a commercial phenomenon in America.

"Food has always had two major highways: It travels with people, as in "Food has always had two major highways: It travels with people, as in immigration," Chen says. "It also travels with the movement of capital." immigration," Chen says. "It also travels with the movement of capital."

As an immigrant, he is a living example of the former. When he lectures on As an immigrant, he is a living example of the former. When he lectures on globalization in one of the classes he teaches at UCI, he could be talking about globalization in one of the classes he teaches at UCI, he could be talking about his own life.his own life.

Chen remembers that his father was a government agriculture official in China's Hubei Chen remembers that his father was a government agriculture official in China's Hubei Province before the Cultural Revolution took hold of the country in the late 1960s. He Province before the Cultural Revolution took hold of the country in the late 1960s. He remembers the Red Guard searching his family's house, and his family's relocation into remembers the Red Guard searching his family's house, and his family's relocation into a Communist re-education camp, where his parents were forced to work in rice paddies a Communist re-education camp, where his parents were forced to work in rice paddies by day and study the sayings of Chairman Mao at night.by day and study the sayings of Chairman Mao at night.

Later, after the movement subsided, Chen says, his father became president of a small Later, after the movement subsided, Chen says, his father became president of a small university, and Chen went to study at Peking University in 1978. There he met Bruce university, and Chen went to study at Peking University in 1978. There he met Bruce Stave and Sondra Astor Stave, an American couple teaching at the university who Stave and Sondra Astor Stave, an American couple teaching at the university who encouraged him to apply to graduate school in the United States. encouraged him to apply to graduate school in the United States.

He arrived in the United States in 1985 after being accepted for graduate studies at He arrived in the United States in 1985 after being accepted for graduate studies at Cornell University. Sondra Stave met him in New York and took him out for pizza, a ritual Cornell University. Sondra Stave met him in New York and took him out for pizza, a ritual of American life.of American life.

"What's more American than pizza?" she said."What's more American than pizza?" she said. Chen remembers well his baptism into the American taste palate, though he admits he Chen remembers well his baptism into the American taste palate, though he admits he

didn't find it tasty at the time. "They said, 'Now, you're in America. We want to didn't find it tasty at the time. "They said, 'Now, you're in America. We want to Americanize you.' "Americanize you.' "

………… Meanwhile, certain ethnic groups have settled into Southern California life into certain Meanwhile, certain ethnic groups have settled into Southern California life into certain

food-service industries but not necessarily their own.food-service industries but not necessarily their own. "Cambodians have almost monopolized the doughnut business," Chen says. "And "Cambodians have almost monopolized the doughnut business," Chen says. "And

Greeks are into candy making. You see more Mexicans opening Chinese restaurants."Greeks are into candy making. You see more Mexicans opening Chinese restaurants." For the future, Chen sees more "fusion food" melding different cultures, as well as a For the future, Chen sees more "fusion food" melding different cultures, as well as a

trend toward healthy cuisines. trend toward healthy cuisines. "California has been the national food trend-setter, and I expect that to continue," he "California has been the national food trend-setter, and I expect that to continue," he

says. Standing in the 99 Ranch Market, a Chinese supermarket in Irvine that also sells says. Standing in the 99 Ranch Market, a Chinese supermarket in Irvine that also sells Japanese soft drinks and Korean barbecue, Chen leans over the fish tank, with its live Japanese soft drinks and Korean barbecue, Chen leans over the fish tank, with its live Maine lobster and silver carp. Maine lobster and silver carp.

Asked what he and his wife have at that very moment in the home refrigerator, Chen Asked what he and his wife have at that very moment in the home refrigerator, Chen recalls some foie gras, duck livers special-ordered from Gelson's, enoki mushrooms, recalls some foie gras, duck livers special-ordered from Gelson's, enoki mushrooms, bean sprouts, bamboo shoots. Oh, and Cajun leftovers. bean sprouts, bamboo shoots. Oh, and Cajun leftovers.

"My wife likes Emeril," he says with a grin."My wife likes Emeril," he says with a grin. http://www.ocregister.com/ocr/2005/01/12/sections/morning_read/article_374403.php Orange County Register article on yong ChenOrange County Register article on yong Chen

New York City: Museum of Chinese in the Americas;New York City: Museum of Chinese in the Americas;Philadelphia: Atwater Kent MuseumPhiladelphia: Atwater Kent Museum

Food as Food as ““SensualSensual””::

Food as Food as ““SensualSensual””: Lin Yutang, Food : Lin Yutang, Food is one of the is one of the ““keen sensual pleasures keen sensual pleasures of our childhoodof our childhood”” ( 1935). ( 1935).

Tell me what you eat and I will tell Tell me what you eat and I will tell you how you feel – food is also tied to you how you feel – food is also tied to our emotions.our emotions.

Food is genderedFood is gendered

Are food preferences gender-Are food preferences gender-specific?specific?

CNN NEWS CNN NEWS

"He is meat and potatoes all the way, and I "He is meat and potatoes all the way, and I could eat pasta and fruit and fish every day could eat pasta and fruit and fish every day and I'd be fine," says one woman. Her and I'd be fine," says one woman. Her sentiments may well be echoed by many sentiments may well be echoed by many other women. Indeed, studies show men like other women. Indeed, studies show men like to eat heavier foodsto eat heavier foods””..

"I eat salads now and then," said one man. "I eat salads now and then," said one man. "I start to feel like a rabbit and I don't eat "I start to feel like a rabbit and I don't eat them no more."them no more."

Information:http://www.cnn.com/HEALTH/9604/10/gender.food/Information:http://www.cnn.com/HEALTH/9604/10/gender.food/

Which would you choose?Which would you choose?

Mao Zedong (1893-1976); leader of the Chinese communist party; and founder Mao Zedong (1893-1976); leader of the Chinese communist party; and founder of the People Republic of China (1949) of the People Republic of China (1949)

Reasons for the societyReasons for the society’’s failure to fully recognize the s failure to fully recognize the importance of foodimportance of food

Food is sensual;Food is sensual; It is seen as feminine;It is seen as feminine; It is obvious and easily accessible or It is obvious and easily accessible or

attainable, which has been especially attainable, which has been especially true in affluent societies like the true in affluent societies like the United States. United States.

Foodie vs FoodistFoodie vs Foodist

The word foodie describes someone The word foodie describes someone who loves food; who loves food;

A foodist is one who believes that A foodist is one who believes that food is of central importance in all food is of central importance in all human history.human history.

Food: the most important and most fundamental. Food: the most important and most fundamental.

Confucius (551-479 BCE), a philosopher and Confucius (551-479 BCE), a philosopher and educator as well as a foodie: food and sex embody educator as well as a foodie: food and sex embody the great desires of human beings (the great desires of human beings (Book of RitesBook of Rites). ).

Gaozi: the desire for food and sex represents Gaozi: the desire for food and sex represents human nature;human nature;

To reiterate an earlier statement: In modern To reiterate an earlier statement: In modern Western society, food studies have not produced Western society, food studies have not produced the kind of systematic attempts to theorize the the kind of systematic attempts to theorize the centrality of food in human consciousness and centrality of food in human consciousness and developments in the same way Freud theorized developments in the same way Freud theorized about sexuality and magnified its significance in about sexuality and magnified its significance in life. life.

Five ways to understand why food is more important than sex for the development of history..

Five ways to understand why food is more important than sexFive ways to understand why food is more important than sex

1.1. Food is more immediately related to Food is more immediately related to our physical survival than sex;our physical survival than sex;

2.2. Food is more social;; 3. 3.

Sex is more universal; food is more defined by culture and is more about our uniqueness as individuals, communities, and nations

4.4.While human sexual practices have remained largely unchanged, food and foodways – things we eat, how we obtain and prepare our food-- have changed a lot, corresponding to the five major stages in human history.

5.5.Food and major historical events in history and in American history

Food is more socialFood is more social

– Sex belongs largely to the private sphere; food belongs to Sex belongs largely to the private sphere; food belongs to both private and public spheres and often serves to connect both private and public spheres and often serves to connect the two. the two.

– Food better helps us understand and builds social Food better helps us understand and builds social relationship; the relationship based on sexuality tends to be relationship; the relationship based on sexuality tends to be exclusive. exclusive.

– We talk about food more than sex. We talk about food more than sex. – More so than sex, food is also about class relations. More so than sex, food is also about class relations. – Gender and gender relationships.Gender and gender relationships.

Food is Food is gendered;; Aphrodisiacs;Aphrodisiacs; It reflects It reflects gender roles;gender roles; Women have done most of the cooking at home; most chefs are Women have done most of the cooking at home; most chefs are

men. Survey by men. Survey by StarChefs.com Joyce Goldstein: Joyce Goldstein: ““mama cooks and show-off cooksmama cooks and show-off cooks””

Food and cultureFood and culture Sex is more universal; food is more defined by Sex is more universal; food is more defined by

culture and is more about our uniqueness as culture and is more about our uniqueness as individuals, communities, and nations -- There individuals, communities, and nations -- There is ethnic food; but there is no ethnic sex:is ethnic food; but there is no ethnic sex:– ““we are what eatwe are what eat””– ““tell me what you eat, and I will tell you who you tell me what you eat, and I will tell you who you

are.are.””– In German, “Der Mensch ist was er iIn German, “Der Mensch ist was er ißßt” (Man is t” (Man is

what he eats.)]what he eats.)]– Food is closely related to our sense of identity – a Food is closely related to our sense of identity – a

lasting element of our ethnicity.lasting element of our ethnicity.– Republicans do not drink Republicans do not drink latte – people judge – people judge

others by their food.others by their food.– Regional food.Regional food.

Five gastronomical moments in Five gastronomical moments in human historyhuman history

(1) The beginning: the (1) The beginning: the mastery of fire::– Richard Wrangham, Richard Wrangham, Catching Fire: How Cooking Made Catching Fire: How Cooking Made

Us HumanUs Human– Peking Man (Zhoukoudian); Use of fire? (Zhoukoudian); Use of fire?

(2) The transition from hunter/gatherer (2) The transition from hunter/gatherer community to agricultural society:community to agricultural society:– Assisted by the domestication of animals.Assisted by the domestication of animals.

(3) Separation from food production.(3) Separation from food production.– Gordon Ramsay (Gordon Ramsay (The F-Word): Where are French fries ): Where are French fries

from?from?– tremendous political, socioeconomic, and cultural tremendous political, socioeconomic, and cultural

implicationsimplications (4) Separation from food preparation: dining out.(4) Separation from food preparation: dining out. (5) (5) ““We what we donWe what we don’’t eat.t eat.””

““We what we don’t eat.”We what we don’t eat.” From From ““how to get foodhow to get food”” to to ““how to avoid food.how to avoid food.”” In other words, we are increasingly defined by In other words, we are increasingly defined by

our level of choices, and by our non-our level of choices, and by our non-participation in eating.participation in eating.

Beginning of popularity of natural foods; Beginning of popularity of natural foods; organic foods in the 1970s.organic foods in the 1970s.

Dieting: a multi-billion dollar industry.Dieting: a multi-billion dollar industry. In the U.S., a prominent symptom of food In the U.S., a prominent symptom of food

scarcity or food desert is obesity.scarcity or food desert is obesity. The old social class line is reversed: The The old social class line is reversed: The

““haveshaves”” try not to eat; and the have-nots eat try not to eat; and the have-nots eat and even over-eat.and even over-eat.

Food and major historical developments and events in history and in Food and major historical developments and events in history and in American historyAmerican history

GlobalizationGlobalization– Sydney Mintz, Sydney Mintz, Sweetness and Power: The Place of Sugar in Sweetness and Power: The Place of Sugar in

Modern HistoryModern History (1985) (1985) –– how sugar was connected to how sugar was connected to plantation labor, slavery, colonialism, and British consumers plantation labor, slavery, colonialism, and British consumers and working class. and working class.

Hunger revolutions: Chinese (1948); Russian (1917).Hunger revolutions: Chinese (1948); Russian (1917). The American revolution started as a food revolution: Tea. The American revolution started as a food revolution: Tea. The temperance movement.The temperance movement. Food remains important to American life to this day, Food remains important to American life to this day,

including its economy. 1/5 of Americaincluding its economy. 1/5 of America’’s petroleum goes s petroleum goes into producing and transporting food.into producing and transporting food.

As nation of food abundance.As nation of food abundance. Food diversity vs cultural/ethnic diversity: the Civil Rights Food diversity vs cultural/ethnic diversity: the Civil Rights

Movement also started a food revolution.Movement also started a food revolution.

CookingCooking Carleton Coon (Carleton Coon (American physical anthropologist American physical anthropologist

and archaeologist)and archaeologist): cooking was : cooking was ““the decisive the decisive factor in leading man from a primarily animal factor in leading man from a primarily animal existence into one that was more fully human.existence into one that was more fully human.””

Engels: The greatest liberation from natural Engels: The greatest liberation from natural necessity of humankind on record is "the necessity of humankind on record is "the generation of fire from friction.generation of fire from friction.““

Zeus: Zeus: ““If they only had fire,If they only had fire,”” said Prometheus to said Prometheus to himself, himself, ““they could at least warm themselves they could at least warm themselves and cook their food; and after a while they could and cook their food; and after a while they could learn to make tools and build themselves houses. learn to make tools and build themselves houses. Without fire, they are worse off than the beasts.Without fire, they are worse off than the beasts.””

Peking Man– the deer hunterPeking Man– the deer hunter

Learn to use fire – 1.8 million years ago (?)Learn to use fire – 1.8 million years ago (?)

Advantages of fire useAdvantages of fire use

making food easier to digest; making food easier to digest; shrinking the stomach size and shrinking the stomach size and

teeth; so that we can redirect the teeth; so that we can redirect the energy to development of our energy to development of our brain. brain.

making food safer to consume and making food safer to consume and easier to store; easier to store;

expanding the range of foods.expanding the range of foods. freeing up time for other freeing up time for other

activities.activities.