designing sandra woman today july
TRANSCRIPT
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JULY 2009 38
Designing Dreams
Sandra Wilkins, Associate Professor at the
Fashion Department of
Virginia Commonwealth
University-Qatar has half
a decade of experience
working in this arena
and is the best person to
speak about fashion and
how it is perceived here.
She talks to Sindhu Nair
on the prejudices she sees
and the fashion bloopers
that people make...
stylewise
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JUly 2009 39
A
t ve, she was busy playing with
old clothes, at nine, she started
making clothes and selling them
for money, and now close to 60,
her passion remains the same –
fashion designing. Meet Sandra Bell Wilkins,
Associate Professor at the Fashion Department
of Virginia Commonwealth University-Qatar
(VCU-Q), who has been there and done that,
with years of experience and an ardour that is
almost infectious.
She talks about the fashion scene in Doha,
some discernible changes in perceptions and
some that are still rigid and prejudiced.
“I always wanted to do this”Sandra’s grandparents recognised the inher-
ent talent of cutting and sewing clothes in the
ve-year-old and got her a pedestal to go with
the pedal of an old sewing machine. Since then
there has been no looking back.
“I don’t think I ever wanted to do anything
else. The whole family was musically inclined
and they did try to get me involved in piano
classes but I had no interest whatsoever. I
always wanted to get into fashion.”
The turning point was when Sandra received
a Lions Club scholarship to pursue higher stud-
ies in music... And predictably, she used this
scholarship to study fashion!
“Well, nobody ever had to know. The music
and fashion class were in all in the School of
Arts,” she says smugly.
And so continued her passion...
Fashion...and in Doha?!When Sandra arrived in Doha in 1999, there
were just two students enrolled for the fashion
programme at VCU-Q. Both these were given
scholarships by Her Highness Sheikha Mozah
bint Nasser Al Missned, and were excellent in
studies, she claries.
“I couldn’t gure out why they (the authori-ties) wanted to start a fashion programme here,
because nobody was interested in making this
a career and there was no awareness of the
possibilities of taking up this as a profession.
“I was wondering why they wanted to start
a fashion programme in a place where there
was no industry. Then I found out that in the
Industrial Area there were around 10 shops
that were making clothes for some the popular
Western brands like Gap. At that point, it was a
very positive thing for me since I thought there
were possibilities for our girls here.”
What Sandra didn’t know then were the rules
of the place, of the Industrial Area in particular,
where girls still do not venture out alone and
hence no remote possibility of them ever going
to work there. Soon the companies operating
in those areas too closed down but, by then,
the fashion programme at VCU-Q had made
an impact on the students and things started to
look a bit more positive.
But fashion is still not considered the best of
career by locals.
“For some strange reason, in this part of the
world, they (the nationals) see fashion as some-
thing that is meant for the less privileged, theless educated. I have even heard some say that
only Indians and Pakistanis pursue fashion as a
career option.
“All this while in the rest of the world, fashion
is considered as the ultimate career, a rened
choice! I was recently at the London Fashion
Week – this is an event where all the Univer-
sities come and participate, students show
their portfolio’s, fashion shows are organised,
people from all over the world come to recruit
– it is the most happening event in the country.
Fashion is a big business but you have to be at
such places to know how big it is.”
And has the recession taken a toll on this
glamourous industry?
“Times are bad but the fashion business
around the world is still booming. Contracts
are being signed and recruitments are made at
such times too. When you come back here, you
again see the lack of enthusiasm to fashion as
a career, which is sad.
“To tell you the truth, it is not the students
who show this lack of interest, it is the parents
who don’t want their kids to join this stream.
And the reason is simple, the Qatari Govern-
ment doesn’t have any job for fashion design-
ers, and so they feel this career is useless.”
Sandra feels that culture has a lot to do with
the way people in the region perceive fashion.Taking students’ interest into consideration,
VCU-Q has started a double major programme
where students can major both in fashion
and graphics or fashion and interiors as they
choose.
“Four years ago, because of the demand, we
started this and there was an overwhelmingly
response. This is the rst time this double major
course is being followed in the whole world.
We have about 30 students doing this, which
is quite impressive here. It is a stressful course
that requires dedication and commitment.”
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JULY 2009 40
stylewise
Culturally conscious?Trying to nd answers to the
question of why a career in
fashion is still not perceived
as hip, Sandra feels it is a
kind of paradox. In a country
where people are enthusias-
tic about high-end fashion
and don’t think twice before
spending whopping amounts
(and in dollars) buying brand
names, fashion as a career
choice isn’t encouraged.
“There are talented youngpeople doing our course and
we might nd students who
will start something spec-
tacular on their own, only
because there is a strong
expatriate population who will
support anything that is local
and has cultural relevance"Now that brings another
fascinating, if disappointing
facet, of the mindset here.
Students have told me that
Qataris are just not interested
in buying anything that is
made by Qataris. And that
is a revelation. It could be a
matter of quality as they think
anything made locally would
not be good or that they are
so brand conscious that they
wouldn’t buy anything other
than a Gucci or a Prada.
“Fashion students have
to decide what they re-
ally want to do. They need
to explore and nd new
avenues to make a mark in
their profession. They have
to get the exposure, move
out and see the world and
then come back with loads
of experience to educate the
rest here. It is only then that
fashion, in its pure sense, willever be appreciated for what
it stands for in this part of the
world.”
“Fashion shows are
successful” VCU-Q holds two major
fashion shows and they are
immensely popular.
“It is a great opportunity
for the students within Qatar
Foundation to collaborate.
We get the students in-
volved in everything, from
set designs to selecting theevent ow, to the clothes.
They work on budgets and
I try and get the students to
do everything on their own. It
is an event to showcase their
talents on all levels – from
interior designing to fashion
designing to coordination.
Since our institution is small,
we showcase the work of all
the students – the seniors
and the sophomores. It is a
big event for them and very
popular. We have had to turn
people away due to limitedspace.”
What I stand forWhen fashion is such big
business, does she ever
feel left out or regret her
decision of coming to Doha
and working in the teaching
profession?
“I love teaching and I lovebeing here in Doha. I give
the right message to my stu-
dents; to set an example of a
strong woman who is serious
about her business.
"When I see the recog-
nition and respect in my
students’ eyes, and when
students come up to me and
say “I want to be like you,” I
feel sure of my decision of
staying on here.
“I also nd a lot of time to
give vent to my creativity. I
have been working on the
kimonos – a combination
of the traditional Japanese
costume and the abayas – a
marriage of the two. I mightdo a fashion show soon.
Earlier, I was working more
for the money and now I
am doing more stuff that
adds value. My focus has
changed.
“And this is the ideal place
to work; you have all the
resources, the money and
the space. I might even retire
here, or they might have to
kick me out of here....
Sandra’s list of eight fashion faux pas:
“My philosophy is to make a good personal presenta-
tion. Fashion likes and dislikes are very subjective, so
my list should be common knowledge.”
Wearing clothes that are just too small. If it pulls or
binds or if the buttons are screaming, it is time to give itup or to someone else.
Clothes should always be clean. No make-up, hairy un-
derarms or food stains. They don’t have to be the latest
trend but dirty clothes are unacceptable.
Put your best foot forward. Shoes that have seen better
days, run over or frayed heels, scuffed or sandals that
are just not your size. No chipped polish and no rusty
heels. I really hate socks with sandals, too.
Dark hosiery and light shoes. It might be a fad at times
but it is just not fashionable.
Short pants. If they are supposed to be long pants make
sure that they are the right length. Oh yes! Capris are
NOT for everyone.
Underwear. No panty lines, no visible bras, and the thong was meant to be hidden and not on display.
If several people come up to you to inquire about your
health and you are wearing the latest colour trend, that
colour is probably not for you.
Make-up like clothing should be age, occasion and time
of day (unless you live so north that the sun never sets
at certain times of the year) appropriate. Rhinestones
anywhere on the face while the sun is up is a no, no. Oh yes, eye makeup should not be mistaken for sunglasses
from a distance.