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DESIGN DESTINATION:

Palm SpringsWHILE AWAY A WEEKEND AT THE EPICENTER OF MODERNISM, WHERE YOUCAN SEE—AND STAY IN—SOME OF THE WEST’S MOST ICONIC MIDCENTURY DESIGNS

Kaufmann House, 1946; 470 West Vista Chino Road Designed for the same Edgar Kaufmann Sr. who commissioned “Fallingwater”from Frank Lloyd Wright, this glass, steel, aluminum and stone landmark (above)is one of the best-known designs by architect Richard Neutra, whose buildingsare considered the embodiment of modernism’s International Style. After endur-ing years of neglect and insensitive renovations, it was restored to its originalglory in 1997 by Los Angeles-based architecture firm Marmol Radziner. >>

A DRIVE THROUGH THE NEIGHBORHOODS of Palm Springs, California, reads like a roster of the mid-century’s most notable architects—Wexler, Williams, Cody and Frey, to name a few—who designed homesfor some of Hollywood’s biggest stars, from Frank Sinatra and Bob Hope to Elvis Presley and Lucille Ball.

Thanks to this confluence of moneyed clientele and forward-thinking architects, Palm Springs quickly becamehome to the greatest concentration of Midcentury Modern architecture in the country. The dramatic landscapeof towering mountains and stark desert inspired these visionary architects to design sleek modern homes thatrespond to and embrace the environment. Their design aesthetic—flat roofs that seemingly float above wallsof glass, deep overhangs that shield rooms from the sun, and open floor plans that merge seamlessly with theoutdoors—would become known as Desert Modernism, and to this day, its informal yet elegant indoor/outdoorstyle inspires architects throughout the West and around the world. STORY BY CHRISTINE DEORIO

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1 Swiss Miss Houses, 1958-1962; Vista Las Palmas The George Alexander Construction Company relied on architects William Kriseland Dan Saxon Palmer to design nearly all of its Palm Springs dwellings; 15 notable exceptions are known as the “Swiss Miss” houses. Designed by architectCharles E. DuBois, these charming post-and-beam structures are equal parts tikihut and alpine chalet. While each of the Swiss Misses is unique, common threadsinclude a peaked entry and A-frame living room featuring a massive floor-to-ceiling stone fireplace flanked by large expanses of plate glass.

2 Tramway Gas Station (Palm Springs Visitors Center),1965; 2901 North Palm Canyon DriveDesigned by architects Albert Frey and Robson C. Chambers at a time when manybusinesses commissioned works of architecture to reflect their success, this eye-catching former gas station, now the Palm Springs Visitors Center, is a fitting gate-way to the town. Frey was known for treating roof planes as sculptural elements,and this structure’s soaring roofline that spans nearly 100 feet—and is supportedby just six steel pipe columns—serves as a beautiful example.

3 Twin Palms Estates, 1957-1959; between Camino Real, La Jolla and Twin Palms RoadsIn the 1950s and ’60s, the George Alexander Construction Company changed theface of Palm Springs by building more than 2,000 stylish single-family homes, nearlyall of them designed by architects William Krisel and Dan Saxon Palmer. Their first

tract of 39 homes was built here in Twin Palms Estates. Although thesquare-shaped floor plans are essentially identical, the homes’ uniquerooflines, façades and finishes create distinctive looks. To identify oneof these gems, look for this sequence of spaces: a parking area, thena breezeway, windows and a wall.

4 Alexander Steel Houses, 1960-1962; 300 and 330 East MolinoRoad; 290 Simms Road; 3100, 3125, 3133 and 3165 Sunnyview Drive In the early 1960s, architect Donald Wexler, who believes that steel isan ideal building material in desert climes, set about designing an eas-ily replicated, all-steel “home system” for the George Alexander Con-struction Company. The project came to a halt when a steel embargomade the development unprofitable—but not before Wexler designedand built seven 1,400-plus-square-foot homes. After surviving a periodof neglect and decay, the north-end neighborhood and its one-of-a-kind homes are now protected as historic sites.

5 Edris House, 1953; 1030 West Cielo Drive A classic example of Desert Modernism in the Little Tuscany Estatesneighborhood, this house clad in stone and Douglas fir appears torise organically from the rocky landscape, perfectly conveying archi-tect E. Stewart Williams’ philosophy of bringing the desert into the ar-

chitecture rather than placing the architecture on the desert. To this day, everythingyou see is original. Even the palm trees are left untrimmed, as the home’s firstowner Marjorie Edris had preferred.

6 Coachella Valley Savings & Loan No. 3 (Chase bank), 1960; 499 South Palm Canyon DriveFans of architect Max Abramovitz’s Avery Fisher Hall at Lincoln Center in NewYork City may notice familiar elements in this sculptural structure on Palm Springs’main thoroughfare. Designed two years before the Avery Fisher Hall by architectE. Stewart Williams, this 1960 bank, now a Chase bank branch, draws the eyewith its elegant, inverted white arches that rise above a floating terrazzo staircaseand cast shadows on a dramatic wall of bronze corrugated metal. >>

WHAT TO SEE

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The homes pictured here areprivate residences to be

admired from the street. Thevery best way to see Palm

Springs’ most important architecture is on a tour withthe fascinating Robert Imber,

who knows the stories behind almost every buildingin town and shares many of

them on a 3-hour drivingtour, available twice daily

($75). Palm Springs Modern Tours,

psmoderntours@aol.com;760-318-6118

Prefer to go it alone? Pick up “A Map of

Palm Springs Modern”at the Palm Springs Visitors Center or at

psmodcom.org.

INSIDER TIP

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1 Desert Star HotelThis hip Midcentury Modern property—designed by Howard Lapham in 1954—may be small, but its five bungalows are anything but modest. Each light-filled roomis nearly 600 square feet, furnished with modern designs by Eames, Nelson andBertoia, and includes a king-size bed, lounge area, full bathroom, fully equippedkitchen and a private patio for relaxing and dining. A central courtyard offers moreoutdoor living space, complete with a heated saltwater pool, stylish lounge fur-niture and mountain views. In a word: cool. From $140 per night. desertstarhotel.com

2 The Horizon HotelDesigned by William Cody in 1952 for media mogulJack Wrather and his wife, actress Bonita Granville, thispeaceful, adults-only hotel features low-slung, angular architecture. Spare and stylish guest rooms areall about the views, which are framed by floor-to-ceiling walls of glass and perfectly positioned clerestorywindows. Some rooms take the indoor-outdoor connection even further with private outdoor showers.Each room has its own patio; have your complimentarybreakfast served there or even poolside. For the ultimate getaway, book the private 1,000-square-footresidence, complete with a full-size pool and swankysunken bar. From $109 per night. thehorizonhotel.com

3 Orbit InThis little piece of paradise consists of two properties—The Orbit In (1957) and the Hideaway (1947)—locatedjust two blocks apart, in the Historic Tennis Club Districtat the base of the San Jacinto Mountains. Featuring theclassic midcentury courtyard style, both lodges werebuilt by Herb Burns, the designer/builder who intro-duced Palm Springs to the “ultra-modern motor courtinn.” Meticulously maintained guest rooms feature private patios, original kitchens and baths, iconic Mid-century Modern furnishings by Bertoia, Saarinen,Eames and more, and even a Crosley record player.From $129 per night. orbitin.com

4 Beau Monde VillasImagine spending the weekend at Frank Sinatra’s Twin Palms estate (pictured onfacing page) or lounging at a home designed by William F. Cody or William Krisel.Beau Monde Villas offers them all in its portfolio of more than 30 architecturally significant Palm Springs homes. Each is stylishly furnished and impeccably maintained, and comes with perks including a personal house butler, conciergeservices, pre-arrival grocery delivery and more. Inquire for rates. beaumondevillas.com >>

WHERE TO STAY ( IN A MIDCENTURY CLASSIC)

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There’s no better way to start a day of architecture-peeping thanwith a hearty breakfast—featuring seasonal, locally grown ingredients—at Cheeky’s. Forget calorie-counting and start withthe West’s most delicious cinnamon roll (the secret is the flakycroissant dough). cheekysps.com

At lunchtime, head to Jake’s for tasty fish tacos or the turkey BLTA.Don’t leave without stopping at the dessert case, where you’ll findgorgeous cakes and the restaurant’s famous giant cupcakes-of-the-day. jakespalmsprings.com

For a casual dinner, snag a patio table at Birba, where you can kickback and watch passersby as you sip cocktails (try a refreshingLemongrass Rickey) and snack on delicious thin-crust pizzastopped with everything from San Daniele prosciutto and arugula toegg, pancetta, pecorino and spring onion. birbaps.com

WHERE TO EATIN PALM SPRINGS

1 notNeutralThe name says it all. This little shop is brimming with bold colorsand fun patterns—splashed on everything from tableware toarea rugs, accent pillows to furnishings just for kids. On our wishlist: “In the Mix” plate sets featuring four mod black-and-whitepatterns—perfect for dressing up basic white dinnerware.notneutral.com

2 Interior Illusions Shop a wide range of glam furnishings, rugs, lighting, artworkand accessories, almost all in a bold palette of black and white. interiorillusionshome.com

3 Insolito Home Find cool and quirky limited-production furnishings, including“Seatbelt” chairs from the Phillips Collection, sculptural “Peacock” chairs by acclaimed designer Dror Benshetrit andone-of-a-kind hand-blown-glass lighting fixtures. insolitohome.com

4 Modern Way Pop in and browse an ever-changing selection of real-deal furniture, accessories, lighting, rugs and art from the 1950s, ’60sand ’70s (think iconic Warren Platner lounge chairs, Bertoia BirdChairs (pictured) and a groovy Milo Baughman lambswool pouf).psmodernway.com

5 Trina Turk Residential Uncover a bright and bold array of decorative accessories, pillows, prints and the latest, greatest design books. trinaturk.com !

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WHERE TO GET THE LOOK

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