Development of a fuzzy logic model for designing personalized ease allowance of a

women trouser

Abher RASHEED Xianyi ZENG Sébastien THOMASSEY

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Plan of the presentation …1. Motivation2. Literature

2.1 Garment design2.2 Body Morphology

3. Experimentation 3.1 Fabric selection3.2 Observers / Models3.3 Draping and ease allowance

4. Fuzzy logic Model5. Results6. Conclusion7. Future work

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1. Motivation…

A CAD system that can produce garment patterns automatically Good style Perfect fit for the client Low cost

Design a mathematical model Calculating personalized ease

allowance Body measurements Fabric properties

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2.1 Garment Design …

There are two methods of garment designing

A. 2D pattern making B. Draping

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A. 2D Pattern Making … Body measurements Drawing construction

lines Pattern making Verification - Trueing Grading

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B. Draping … Preparation of mannequins Preparation of fabric Draping on mannequin Patron drawing Seam allowances Cutting and dart closing Corrections

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2.2 Body Morphology…

Morphologically, woman body is divided into 7 categories [McCormack H. 2005]

8 shape Hourglass Pyramide Inverse pyramide Rectangular Round Oval

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3. Experimental Work …

General scheme of mathematical model

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3.1 Fabric Selection … Six fabrics made of different materials

were chosen for this study.

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3.1 Fabric Selection (Cont…) Physical Tests

Weight Bending length thickness Linearity Resilience Compression energy

Sensory Evaluation Smoothingness Softness Stretchability Bulkiness Fall

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3.1 Fabric Selection (Cont…)

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3.1 Fabric Selection (Cont…)

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PCA (Principle Component Analysis) …

Sample 1 Sample 3 Sample 4Softness (var2) Stretchability (var3)

Bending Length (var6)Weight (var8)

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3.2 Observers / Models … 3D body scanner was used to take the

body measurements of the models.

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3.3 Patterns Obtained by Draping …

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3.3 Ease Allowance Measurement …

Ease Allowance = mesurement on pattern – Body mesurement

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4. Fuzzy Inference System …

a

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4. Fuzzy Inference System (Cont…)

SFT = Softness STR = Stretchability GSM = Weight BEL = Bending Length

WHD = Waitst to hips distance verticle EAH = Ease Allowance at Hips

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Fuzzy Rules (Cont…)

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5. Results Obtained

21Sample 4 Sample 5

Sample 1 Sample 3

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21 22 23 24 25 26 27 28 29

WHD (cm)

EAH

(cm

)

EAH

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21 22 23 24 25 26 27 28 29 30

WHD (cm)

EAH

(cm

)

EAH

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21 22 23 24 25 26 27 28 29 30

WHD (cm)

EAH

(cm

)

EAH

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21 22 23 24 25 26 27 28 29

WHD (cm)

EAH

(cm

)

EAH

WHD = Waist to hips distance verticle EAH = Ease allowance at hips

5. Results Obtained (Cont…)

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6. Conclusion The most important parameters are softness (SFT) and

waist to hips distance (WHD). Stretchability (STR) is also reasonably critical while

bending length (BEL) comes after it. Weight (GSM) has no significant influence on the results.

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7. Future Work … More sophisticated study is required to find

out a set of fabric parameters which greatly influence ease allowance. For this purpose, a bigger knowledge base has to be developed by using more fabrics samples with more variations.

By using same technique, mathematical expressions can be developed to find out ease on other points of the pattern.

A software can be designed, by using all the mathematical expressions, which will be able to draft a pattern automatically (by getting a few simple inputs)

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Thank you for your attention