development of textile

8/4/2019 Development of Textile

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DEVELOPMENT OF TEXTILE

INDUSTRY IN INDIA


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RECENTDEVELOPMENTINTEXTILESAND

INDIANINDUSTRY

As per the vision statement prepared by the ICMF forthe textile sector, the Indian textile industry has thepotential to become an industry of $85 billion by 2010from the current size of $36 billion. This growth can be

achieved by the expansion of domestic as well as exportsegments. Textile export could reach $ 40 billions markby 2010 from present 12 billion dollar level. During lastsix months performance on export front can beconsidered satisfactory. In order to achieve the potential,

textile industry has to shift towards value addedproducts. The greatest value addition in textile chains isgenerated by the apparel segment. In order to producequality apparels, all the segments i.e. processing, fabricmanufacturing and spinning will need upgradation


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WEAVING

The main features of modern weaving preparatory/

weaving machines are summarised as under : Machinery manufacturers of both weaving preparatory

and weaving machines have improved upon theirtechnology keeping in mind to produce fault free fabric

for the garment sector. Most of the machines have electronic control and

micro-processors which monitors and control themachine function to meet fabric quality requirement

and changes in design styles. Maintenance of machine has become easier due

efficient lubrication system and better machine designand replacement of mechanical gadgets withelectronic control system.


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In modern rapier looms weft insertion rate ranges from1200 - 1500 mt/min. Some of the looms have provisionto weave wide variety of fabrics.

In case of Airjet weaving machine weft insertion rate isstill higher and ranges from 1800-2500 mt/min.

Modern sizing machine has provision for uniform sizepick up across the warp sheet with and minimumhairiness and loss in elongation. These are controlled bytemperature control and moisture control systems.Squeeze pressure can be controlled by programmablecontroller to synchronise the squeezing at all thespeeds. Stretch monitoring device is provided to control

the stretch. There is a definite trend to source the components and

auxiliary equipment from the reputed manufacturersrather than preparing themselves, thereby reducing thecost of the machines.


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SPINNING

Productivity in blowroom line has shot up to 800 kg/hr with a

provision to work 3 mixings simultaneously. The modern blowroom has automatic bale opener, integrated

mixer and cleaning devices to process wide variety of cottons.

In case of modern carding machine instead of one licker-in,multiple licker-ins are incorporated in series.

There are more stationary flats. Maintenance free digital drives

are used for feed roll, doffer, web doffing and can change. The entire card clothing can be removed with few operations.

Various devices like nep control, flat control and waste control etcare incorporated.

In latest drawframe machine, delivery speed upto 1000 mt/minute

are achievable with an option of automatic draft controlmechanism which dispenses need for gear change for controllingdraft and delivery speed.

In some machines individual deliveries can be controlledindependently.


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One supplier provides draw frame which can belinked with carding machine.

It is claimed that due to digital autoleveller the

accuracy is very high on an average one meter CVof sliver can be controlled below 0.4%.

In case of combers speed upto 400 nips/min isachievable.

Modern comber can give a production upto 1.3tonnes/day.

Touch screens display system is provided.

The display includes production data, process

setting, machine parameters setting and faultmessage display.

Some machines come fully assembled in 4modules to save installation time.


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New generation speed frame are fully electronic in all theoperations.

All the working parameters can be set on electronic panel.

Bobbin size 6 x 16 or 7 x 16 can be taken. There is choice of manual or auto doffing.

Machines are available upto 160 spindles capacity therebysubstantial saving in the operational cost.

In modern ring spinning system winding geometries arefurther optimised resulting less winding tension.

Therefore higher draft upto 80 are achievable with higherspindle speed (above 20000 rpm).

Inverter drive for spindles, independent spindle ring railand drafting system drives, fast doffing system with notrailing ends are some of the other features of modern ringframes.

Ring frame upto 1344 spindles are available.


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In todays rotor spinning system, different yarn can be spun indifferent side of the machine.

It is possible to get package of variable density.

All the technical parameters and machine setting can becontrolled by computer.

In the modern rotor machine it is possible to prepare apackage with 30% higher package density than conventionalrotor machine.

In modern winding machine path of ring cop from bottom towinding head is further optimised. Therefore, better control ofwinding tension results in lower increase in hairiness.

The flexible knotting cycle together with customised

acceleration dynamics helps in production optimisation. The directly controlled cylinder inverter and suction motor

inverter helps in energy conservation.

Latest vortex spinning system produced by Murata can spincotton yarn at a speed of 400 mt/min.


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The technology was earlier used for spinningsynthetic blended yarn only.

The newly developed DREF spinning system canproduce various types of core and multi-componentyarns.

The drafting unit can handle all types of syntheticfibres such as aramid, preoxidised fibre, polyamide,phenol resin fibres and melamine fibres.

The machine is capable of operating with severalcores.

The production rate is as high as 250 mtr/min andfineness of yarn can be from 0.5 to 25 nm.


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KNITTING In recent times the quality requirement imposed on a

knitting factory by its customer have become even moreprecise due to greater emphasis on the reproducibility incase of repeat order. Typically a modern knittingmachine has following features as:

Automatic calculation of fabric take down speed,feeders per course, stitch/cm and elongation

Automatically controlled thread infeed by entering therequired thread infeed per cm

Automatic control of height adjustment throughcomputer

Automatic monitoring of yarn infeed and yarn tension

Computer facilitated pattern preparations for productionof the desired pattern through user friendly software.


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STATUSOF INDIANINDUSTRY

At present Indian industry is highly disintegrated. There

are approx. 2300 players in the organised spinningsector, 280 composite mills. 1000 weaving units andaround 1,45,000 independent processing units andinnumerable garment manufacturers. The status ofmachinery technology is not upto the mark except inspinning sector. About 100000 modern shuttle lesslooms are required to be installed by 2010 to meet thetarget. Processing sector will also need large dose ofmodernisation/upgradation. It is estimated that a total

investment of 35 billion dollar might be required toachieve the growth planned by ICMF.


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QUALITYCONTROL/PROCESSCONTROL

In the area of cotton testing new generation instruments

are mostly High Volume Instruments (HVI). These HVIare equipped with automatic sampling. In addition totesting of length, strength and fineness parameters theyalso measure short fibre content and maturity indexvalues. It is claimed that maturity values are quiteaccurate. Instruments also have modules to test colour,

trash neps and fluorescence values. Some of thesuppliers are providing bale management systems. In the area of yarn quality, modern evenness tester can

measure, evenness, imperfection and periodical faults ata high speed. Some of the instruments are equipped withto measure hairiness, diameter variation, shape, dust aswell as trash contents. Single thread strength testingmachine are developed with a testing speed of 400mt/min. The machine is equipped to carry out 30000 testsper hour. It is claimed that weaving performance of theyarn can be predicted well in advance with this machine.Some of the single thread strength machines are quippedwith automatic yarn count determination system.


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Yarn fault classification system has moved to the windingmachine from the laboratory. Data of complete yarn lot can betaken from the winding machines. Electronic inspection Board

can do the yarn grading based on yarn appearance by usingCCD camera and software to measure yarn profile.Instrument can also give fabric simulations if desired.

In fabric testing, automatic fabric inspection system caninspect grey and single cotton dyed fabrics for all materialsincluding air bag fabrics and glass fibre fabrics. Report andimages of al the defects can be retrieved. In the area ofprocess control and management ERP systems are availablewhich provide 3-tier solution including the online data

acquisition, offline data entry cum reporting system andintelligent business management system.

In case of manmade fibres linked instruments are availablewhich can measure denier, tenacity, elongation and crimpproperties. Robotic arm can take the fibre samples

automatically from the creel.


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PROCESSING

New generation processing machine incorporatesmicroprocessor controls. Various processparameters can be programmed in microprocessorfor strict adherence of processing conditions. Apart

from good control, machines are also energyefficient and features are incorporated for thereduction of consumption of chemicals, water andsteam etc. The developments are also taking place

keeping environment requirement and eco-friendlyprocessing while manufacturing the textile productsand safer conditions for those involved in themanufacturing.


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TECHNOLOGICALDEVELOPMENTS

There has been rapid development inmachinery/technology during lastdecade. A brief description of modern

developments in various areas aregiven below.


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WEAKNESSESOFTHE TEXTILE INDUSTRY:

The Industry is a highly fragmented Industry.

It is highly dependent on Cotton. There is lower productivity in various segments.

There is a declining in Mill Segment.

Lack of Technological Development that affect the

productivity and other activities in whole value chain.

Infrastructural Bottlenecks and Efficiency such as,Transaction Time at

Ports and transportation Time. Unfavorable labour Laws.

Lack of Trade Membership, which restrict to tap otherpotential market


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THEGLOBALIZATIONOFTHE INDIANTEXTILESECTORWASTHECUMULATIVEEFFECTOFTHEFOLLOWINGFACTORS

Huge textile production capacity

Efficient multi-fiber raw material manufacturingcapacity

Large pool of skilled and cheap work force

Entrepreneurial skills

Huge export potential

Large domestic market Very low import content

Flexible textile manufacturing systems


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THE INDIANTEXTILEINDUSTRYCONSISTOFTHEFOLLOWINGSECTORS

Man-made Fiber

Filament Yarn Industry

Cotton Textile Industry Jute Industry

Silk and Silk Textile Industry

Wool & Woolen Industry

Power loom Sector


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ANAPPROXIMATENUMBEROFTEXTILEMANUFACTURINGCOMPANIESOPERATINGIN INDIAAREGIVENBELOW

Badges, emblems ribbons and allied products - 175

Bed covers, curtains, cushions and other draperies - 2471

Carpets and rugs - 270

Embroidery and embroidered garments, made ups and furnishing- 848

Fabrics and textiles - 3013 Yarns and threads - 1201

Jute products - 337

Kids apparel and garments -1052

Ladies apparel and garments - 2932

Men's' apparel and garments - 2936 Miscellaneous garments, textile and leather accessories - 1658

Yarns and threads - 1201

Wool, woolen garments, blankets and accessories - 468

Textile chemicals, dyeing and finishing chemicals - 239


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The overall growth of the Indian textileindustry can be attributed to the globalization.

Today, the Indian textile industry employsaround 35 million personnel directly and itaccounts for 21% of the total employmentgenerated in the economy. Globalization ofthe Indian textile industry has also facilitatedintroduction of modern and efficientmanufacturing machineries and techniques in

the Indian textile sector. Thus, much of India'seconomic growth is largely dependent ontextile manufacturing and exports.


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OUTLOOKFOR INDIANTEXTILE INDUSTRY

The outlook for textile industry in India isvery optimistic. It is expected that Indiantextile industry would continue to grow at animpressive rate. Textile industry is being

modernized by an exclusive scheme, whichhas set aside $5bn for investment inimprovisation of machinery. India can also

grab opportunities in the export market. Thetextile industry is anticipated to generate12mn new jobs in various sectors.

development of textile

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