Ashikur Rahman Ranok

Bgmea University of fashion & Technology(BUFT)

What is Sewing Machine?

• A sewing machine is a machine used to stitch fabric and other materials together with thread.

• A sewing machine is a machine which does all the stitches automatically, so it's easier and quicker than hand stitching.

• A sewing machine is a textile machine used to stitch fabric, cards and other material together with thread.

1. Basic sewing machines in garments industry are used for numerous applications.

2. Generally available in three versions :i. Sewing with light materials.ii. Sewing with medium materials.iii.Sewing with heavy materials.

3. Speed up to 6000 s.p.m with electronic controls for acceleration.

4. Electronically controlled thread cutting, needle positioning, back tacking mechanism through the foot pedal, foot lifting system available in this machines.

5. Programmable sewing sequence via a micro processes for repetitive operation.

6. A great variety of feed systems, attachments and apparatus available to make the machine more versatile.

Features of Basic Sewing Machines

According to the operating system, there are two types ofsewing machines:

1. Manually operated sewing machines : Driven by physical energy. Used for domestic and tailoring purposes. Less production, but more laborious. Low cost.

1. Electrically operated or Industrial sewing machines : Usually driven by electric power. High productivity. Used in garments industry. Cost is high.

Types of Sewing Machines

Electrically operated/Industrial Sewing Machines At present there are used two types of electrically operated sewing machines in garments industry :

o Semi-automatic electrical sewing machines.o Computerized sewing machines.

Most common manufacturer of electrical/industrial sewing machines (semi-automatic) are given below:

Brand Name Made in

JUKI Japan

BROTHER Japan

SINGER England

BUTTERFLY China

SiRUBA Taiwan

There are various types of electrically operated or Industrial sewing machines. Among them, features of some most usable machines are described below :

o No. of needle : generally 1 needle or 2 needles.

o SPM : 1500 – 5500.

o Stitch Length : 5 mm in Juki DDL 5500 Model.o Automatic thread cutting and bobbin winding.

o Edge cutting system.o More secured sewing.

o Most commonly used for sewing of woven garments.

1. Lock Stitch or Plain Stitch Sewing Machine

Fig 1 : Lock Stitch Machine

o Two types : Single Chain Stitch and Double Chain Stitch.

o No. of needle: One or more

o No. of thread : One or more

o SPM : 1800 – 6000o Stitch Length : 1.4 mm to 4.5 mmo Automatic thread trimmer.

o Various types of feed mechanism is adjusted to the machine.

o Used for both woven and knitted fabrics, specially to sew jeans or denim wears.

2. Chain Stitch Sewing Machine

Fig 2 : Chain Stitch Machine

• No. of needle: 1 or 2.• No. of threads : 2 - 5.• SPM : 6500 – 8500.• Stitch Length : 4mm (maximum) and it can be

adjusted by push button.• Stretching : Maximum 1: 0.6 and Gathering :

Maximum 1:4• Used for sewing both woven and knitted goods, but

extensively used for knitted goods.

3. Over Lock/Over Edge Sewing Machine

Fig 3 : Over Lock/Over Edge Sewing Machine

Special modification of lock stitch machine. No. of needle: 1 No. of threads : 2 SPM : 5500 Stitch Length: 2 to 2.5 mm Stitch Width: 5 to 10 mm Used in edge stitching or decorative top stitching or

to fit extra component to garments, such as elastic, tape, pipe etc.

4. Zigzag Lock Stitch Sewing Machine

Fig-4 : Zigzag Lock Stitch Sewing Machine

No. of needle: up to 4 No. of threads : 4 to 9 SPM : 6000 Stitch Density: 8 to 16 per inch Thread consumption of this machine is

very high. So very expensive machine. Used for knitted garments. But it can be

also used for woven garments.

5. Flat Lock Sewing Machine

Fig-5 : Flat Lock Sewing Machine

No. of needle: 1 No. of threads : 1 or 2 SPM : 2500 Stitch Length : 3 to 8 mm Stitches are not seen on the face side of the fabric. Curved needle is used. Security is high for 2 thread blind stitch machine. Very expensive. Widely used for hemming and facing attaching.

6. Blind Stitch Sewing Machine

Fig-6 : Blind Stitch Sewing Machine

Stitch Group : Lock or Chain may be used. For heavy fabric, hole is cut before sewing. For lighter fabric, hole is cut after sewing. Arrangement of stitch density being

increased or reduced. To raise the stitch is called ‘Gimp’.

7. Button Holing Machine

Fig-7 : Button Holing Machine

Produces lock stitch, chain stitch or hand stitch.

Button positioning can be automatic. Sewing is according to the hole in button

and may be cross or parallel. In fully automatic machines, button

feeding and positioning inside the button clamp is performed by a hopper and pipe.

8. Button Attaching Machine

Fig-8 : Button Attaching Machine

Cyclic machine of strong sewing in very short length.

After making tack stitch in short length (1-2cm), cover stitch (zigzag) is made on tack stitch and the no. of cover stitch.

Used for sewing of belt loops, closing the ends of button holes, for increasing strength at the ends of the pocket.

9. Bar Tack Machine

Fig-9 : Bar Tack Machine

Used for very fast and accurate sewing. Very expensive and require very efficient operator, so rarely

used in our country. Some examples of mostly used computerized sewing machines

are given below :

• Computer Controlled Cycle Machine with large Sewing Area.• Cylinder Bed Machine with Automatic threads Trimming.• 1-Needle, lock stitch unison feed machine with double capacity.• 1-Needle, lock stitch portable Sewing machine with Automatic

thread Trimmer.• 2-Needle, 2/3/4 thread over lock sewing machine with built-in

rolled hemming and differential feed.• Automatic Jeans pocket setter with new automatic bobbin

winder/changer.• 3-Needle, plain feed double loop seam machine with Tractor

type presser foot.• High speed, lockstitch, buttonhole machine.

Computerized Sewing Machine

Fig-10 : Computerized Sewing Machine

The following maintenance points are to be considered carefully:1. Machine should be cleaned every day.2. Essential parts of the machine should be lubricated or oiled

regularly.3. Needle should be adjusted carefully.4. Needle thread, bobbin thread or looper thread should be

threaded correctly and their tension should be adjusted.5. The pressure of pressure of pressure foot should be adjusted. 6. Stitch density should be adjusted.7. Switching (on/off) should be proper.8. Machine should be handled according to instruction.9. The hand wheel should always be rotated towards the operator.10. Bobbin thread should be wound in uniform tension.11. During fabric feed and with drawl, the needle should be picked

at the top most position and the pressure foot is lifted. 12. One-fifth portion of bobbin should always remain empty after

winding thread.

Maintenance of Sewing Machine

Thanks to All