disclaimer - puma-save.org · the designations employed and the presentation of the material in...

DISCLAIMER

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The designations employed and the presentation of the material in this publication do not imply

the expression of any opinion whatsoever on the part of PUMA concerning the legal status of

any country, territory, city or area or of its authorities, or concerning delimitation of its frontiers

or boundaries. Moreover, the views expressed do not necessarily represent the decision or the

stated policy of PUMA, nor does citing of individual companies, trade names or commercial

processes constitute endorsement. The factories and individuals using this guideline shall

ensure utmost care and diligence in implementing any suggestions, recommendations in this

guideline, and PUMA shall not be held accountable.

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PREFACEThis sustainability guideline is an industry specific knowledge resource developed to address

the sustainability management program in the Footwear, Apparel and Accessories industry.

This guideline does not focus on the compliance requirements from Governments, Buyers and

other relevant organizations. Its main purpose is to inform any company in the FAA value chain

about the potential opportunities and best practices in the areas of resource efficiency and

cleaner production.

The subject of Sustainability Management is a vast domain. This guideline focuses on only four

components, namely, Energy Management, Green House Gas Reduction, Water Conservation

and Waste Management. The guideline will have four volumes such as Energy, Water, Waste

and Resource Efficiency- Cleaner Production & Management System.

This guideline is developed as part of a PUMA sustainability project; SAVE. “Sustainable Action

and Vision for a better Environment” (SAVE) is a PPP (Public Private Partnership) project jointly

co-financed by DEG, co-financed and implemented by PUMA in cooperation with H&M and

ASSIST (Asia Society for Social Improvement and Sustainable Transformation).

This guideline was prepared by ASSIST and PUMA with inputs from technical experts,

namely Enviro Consultants Ltd and Reset Carbon. The document is intended to be a generic

guideline and companies are suggested to use this first step in developing their sustainability

action plans for the long term.

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TABLE OF CONTENTSA. INTRODUCTION TO WASTE MANAGEMENT..................................................................................6

B. PATTERN OF SOLID/HAZARDOUS WASTE GENERATION & MANAGEMENT ...........................7

C. WASTE REDUCTION OPPORTUNITIES IN TIER 1 NDUSTRY .....................................................16

D. WASTE REDUCTION OPPORTUNITIES IN TIER 2 & 3 INDUSTRY..............................................23

E. WASTE REDCUTION OPPORTUNITIES IN GENERAL FOR ALL TIERS .....................................26

F. DETAIL EXPLANATION OF OPPORTUNITIES ..............................................................................33

A. REFERENCES ....................................................................... ERROR! BOOKMARK NOT DEFINED.

B. LIST OF FIGURES ............................................................................................................................44

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GLOSSARYAbbreviations Description

CSR Corporate Social Responsibility

CA Corrective Action

CHP Combined Heat and Power

COD Chemical Oxygen Demand

ETP Effluent Treatment Plan

EVA Ethylene Vinyl Acetate

FAA Footwear, Apparel, Accessories

HW Hazardous Waste

LPG Liquefied Petroleum Gas

NF Nano-Filter

NC Non Conformance

PU Poly Urethane

PVC Poly Vinyl Chloride

QA Quality Assurance

QC Quality Control

RO Reverse Osmosis

RECP Resource Efficiency and Cleaner Production

SOP Standard Operating Procedure

TDS Total Dissolved Solids

UF Ultra Filtration

VFD Variable Frequency Drive

VOC Volatile Organic Components

WM Waste Minimization

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1. INTRODUCTION TO WASTE MANAGEMENTThe cost of waste disposal is not just what factories pay for, either onsite or offsite disposal, but

there are also other costs such as the raw material cost, water processing, substance for

processing, energy for processing, handling by employee and waste handling. The basic

principle of a good waste management system is to avoid or reduce the consumption of raw

materials and the amount of residue requiring disposal.

Waste is produced from production to storage and packaging to transportation and

dissemination of commodities. Industries need to acknowledge their accountability of the

pollution caused through their operations and should identify all possible areas of improvement

including proper waste management. The concept of 3R – Reduce, Reuse, and Recycle is

gaining prominence among the large enterprises which are increasing education for their supply

chains. Different types of waste can be treated, reused and recycled to produce useful by-

products and energy. 3R can also be applied to conserve water and optimize its use. Recycling

of waste leads to a reduced extraction of raw materials and hinders depletion of natural

resources. Waste is better managed by selling to certified waste recyclers that process the

waste to produce usable products. Efficient waste management reduces consumption of

resources and helps in reducing disposal of waste in open landfills which are causing air, water,

and land pollution. Efficient waste management also offers high saving opportunities for the

enterprises.

This volume of the FAA Sustainability Guideline on Waste will provide a list of potential

opportunities for the Footwear, Apparel, and Accessories industries for reducing waste and

potential reuse and recycle opportunities leading to cost saving. The opportunities listed in this

guideline are based on experts experience in the sector and also from the best practices in the

industry. The waste pattern and waste reduction opportunities are explained in detail for the tier

1, 2 and 3 type of factories.

For businesses, sustainability is about ensuring long-term business success while contributing

towards economic and social development, a healthy environment and a stable society. It is

rapidly moving up the agenda as a prime business concern across the globe.

‘Sustainability’ is about ensuring long term business success while contributing towards

economic and social development, a healthy environment and a stable society. We use the

term in this report to refer to the private sector’s contribution to sustainable development —

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generally defined as ‘meeting the needs of the present generation without compromising the

ability of the future generations to meet their needs’.

In the footwear, apparel and accessories sector, the business case for a more sustainable

supply chain is driven by a twin goal of ensuring consumer satisfaction and reducing resource

costs of production. The most significant opportunities available through actively pursuing more

sustainable approaches to business are to:

Save costs by making reductions to environmental impacts and treating employees well;

Increase revenues by improving the environment and benefiting the local economy;

Reduce risk through engagement with stakeholders;

Build reputation by increasing environmental efficiency;

Develop human capital through better human resource management;

Improve access to capital through better governance.

2. PATTERN OF SOLID/HAZARDOUS WASTE GENERATION &MANAGEMENT

2.1.Waste and waste generationThe Tier-11 suppliers generate a diverse range of wastes discrete in quantity with seasonal

variations and summing up to a bulk quantity of waste in total, whereas the Tier-2 & 3 are

expected to generate wastes in bulk quantity. From waste minimisation point of view, all wastes

will attract the following broad grouping for inspection:

Production related wastes

Packing and shipping related wastes

Non product related wastes and

Discarded or off-specification products

1 PUMA annual report, 2013, Tier 1 represents manufacturing from cutting to packaging of the finished productand is the last stage in the manufacturing process. Tier 2 represents any outsourced of processes, for exampleembroiders, cutters and printers. Tier 3 represents the processing of raw materials, for example a leathertannery or rubber processing facility.

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2.2.Waste managementWaste reduction could be considered about minimizing raw materials input. One of the method

factory can apply into production processes to reduce raw materials in all the production stages

is lean management. Lean management helps business system for organizing and managing

product development and operations that requires less capital, les materials and less time to

make products, compared with the previous system of mass production. Lean management is

now widely used in automotive industry which textile industry is included. Lean manufacturing

can be summarized in ten rules:

i. Eliminate waste

ii. Minimize inventory

iii. Maximize flow

iv. Pull production from customer demand

v. Meet the customer requirements

vi. Do it right the first time

vii. Empower workers

viii. Design for rapid changeover

ix. Partner with suppliers

x. Create a culture of continuous improvement.

Waste storage, transportation and disposal are controlled by a variety of legislation, both at the

national and regional levels. Most countries require that detailed waste documentation is to be

retained by the facility, thus promoting a ‘duty of care’ from waste producer through to waste

disposal. Facilities are responsible for identifying all waste materials produced (solid and liquid),

as well as quantities and disposal methods of their inventory. In addition, facilities are required

to identify which of these waste materials are classified as hazardous or require special

consideration.

In recent years, treatment and disposal cost for hazardous waste have risen, while regulatory

fees and paperwork associated with toxic materials have become increasingly steep. Against

the backdrop of the soaring costs and liability exposure associated with the use of hazardous

materials, it makes increasing economic sense to invest in alternative substances and

processes that reduce reliance on industrial toxics wherever possible. Reducing the usage of

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toxins helps manufacturers to improve their production efficiency and achieve other goals

traditionally associated with quality improvement programmes. It can help businesses to

economies on materials, cut production time, improve product quality, decrease transport,

treatment and disposal costs, reduce regulatory fees and compliance headaches, improve

worker safety and cut worker’s compensation insurance rates.

Figure 1: Triple Win

Benefits of chemical efficiency:

Reduced cost and environmental impact: Chemicals can represent a major part of the

production cost for companies. Any measures that can be taken to reduce the loss, waste,

contamination and expiry of these substances will bring cost savings to companies and at

the same time, reduce their environmental impact.

Competitive advantages: While chemicals are often used to achieve certain characteristics

and qualities in a product – consumers are increasingly resistant to the presence of harmful

chemicals in the products they buy or in the environment. Companies that avoid using

banned and restricted substances can avoid having their products rejected in the

marketplace. Customers and the community will appreciate companies who voluntarily

abstain from using illegal chemicals that have negative health and environmental attributes.

Improved worker health and safety: Chemicals alone or mixed with other substances can

cause injury, disease, or even death for people handling these materials. The misuse of

chemicals may result in fires and explosions. Accidents involving chemicals create

additional costs for companies in terms of lost materials, damaged equipment and facilities,

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and personal injury. Reducing health and safety risks for employees improves their

motivation and productivity and reduces absenteeism due to injury and illness

Growing consumer consciousness of environmental and social issues has led to the creation

of requirements that suppliers must meet to have their products accepted in many international

markets. By identifying and reducing the use of banned chemicals and hazardous substances,

companies can improve their competitive position and make the communities where their

operations are located safer. Moreover, by improving the management of chemicals,

companies are simultaneously moving towards meeting the requirements of management

system standards such as ISO 9000 (quality) and 14000 (environment).

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Establish a chemical management program

Figure 2: Quick map2

2 UNEP, Promoting Resource Efficiency in Small and Medium sized Enterprise, Industrial training handbook, 2010

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2.3.Waste products in Textile and Footwear sectorThere is a wide range of such waste products, which can be grouped as follows:

Tier 1 Textile and Footwear SectorTable 1: Waste products in Tier 1

Textile Sector Footwear Sector Cutting wastes

Obsolete (out of fashion)

Wooden pallets

Paper sacks

Containers for bulk products

Metal drums

Plastic bags and drums

Buffing dust

Finishing residues

Finished leather trim

ETP sludge

Solvent based waste finish

Tier 2&3 Textile and Footwear SectorTable 2: Waste products in Tier 2&3

Textile Sector Footwear Sector

Cardboard boxes

Metal rings

Yarn cones (broken or discarded)

Dye trays and supports (broken or

discarded)

Used oils and lubricants

Exhausted cleaning solvents

Plastic and paper packaging waste

Rejected textile raw materials

Spilled solid/liquid products.

Chemical contaminated packaging

Food waste

Employee /General waste

Activated Carbon wastes

Empty containers (Non Hazardous

chemicals)

Empty containers (Hazardous

chemicals)

Pallets

In some of the factories where there are diverse range of waste, there is no structured data

concerning the quantities of these wastes generated, which, to a large extent, depend on the

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production capacity, the different processes that are carried out and the nature of the waste

products.

The waste management system has to be reviewed holistically from the raw material stage until

recycling. Examine to what extent, wastes are managed in the following manner, with

supporting data (if there is no data, then this becomes the premise to introduce in the

sustainability project of your organization to reduce waste):

Recycled at the factory level

Sold to the waste collecting individuals for reuse or recycle

Sold to the waste recycling enterprises

Sold to the retail traders for reuse or recycle

Given away for charity

Handed over to centralized re-processing agency

Land-filled

Incineration with or without energy recovery

Composting

Bio-gas generation

Review records of “Scrap Yard” based waste streams and arrive at specific waste generation

indicators. Any waste fetching no monetary value should become the target for setting

“Objectives & Target” for the sustainability project to reduce the waste. Typical waste

generation data in different type of factories mentioned are in the below table as a benchmark.Table 3: Waste generated in different types of Tier one factories

FactoryType

Unit PUMA Weighted Value2011 2012 20133

Footwear Waste/pair or piecein gram

176 147 122(Range: 29 –

380)Apparel Waste/pair or piece

in gram42 72 82

(Range: 3 – 119)Accessories Waste/pair or piece

in gram27 23 37

(Range: 11 – 78)Source: Summary of PUMA supplier’s e-KPIs.

3 Puma Annual Report 2013 (Figures derived from 46 key suppliers covering 70% of PUMA productionworldwide)

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Table 4: Waste Quantities in Textile Production Process4

Process Benchmark (Litre/kgtextile substrate)

Wool scouring 2-6

Yarn finishing (wool) 35-45

Yarn finishing (cotton) 100-120

Yarn finishing (Synthetic Fibre) 65-85

Finishing of knitted fabrics (wool) 60-70

Finishing of knitted fabrics (cotton) 60-135

Finishing of knitted fabrics (Synthetic Fibre) 35-80

Finishing woven fabrics (wool) 70-140

Finishing woven fabrics (cotton) 50-70

Finishing woven fabrics (Synthetic Fibre) 150-80

Finishing, including printing, of woven fabric (wool) 100-180

Table 5: The following are the trend in waste generation pattern5

Broad Waste category Tier 1 Tier 2 &3

Cardboard/paper/plastics 10-15% 3.5-4.5

Organic wastes 30-40% 6.5-10%

Hazardous wastes 1.5-6.5% 70 -85%

Non Hazardous wastes 46-84% 0.5-15%

Textile industry produces hazardous solid (slags), liquid (effluent sludge) and gaseous wastes

that contain diverse organic solvents, paint and fiber preservatives, organic and mineral

pigments.

The production of a textile requires several stage of mechanical processing such as weaving,

spinning, knitting and garment production which seems to be insulated from the wet treatment

processes like pretreatment, dyeing, printing and finishing operation, but there is a strong

4 IFC-EHS Guideline “Textile Manufacturing5 PUMA and KfW (DEG), SAVE project, China, Indonesia, Cambodia and Bangladesh pilot onsite

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interrelation between treatment process in the dry state and consecutive wet treatments. The

dry process generated rags to use in wet processes and the rag would become hazardous

waste.6

In the wet treatment, many processes are involved such as bleaching, washing, dyeing and

printing. All of these processes are using various chemicals to create reaction. Products of each

process would be the products and chemical liquid waste as sludge which have been

mentioned in Water Volume of this Guideline.

6 Wang K. L. et all, 2004, Handbook of Industrial and Hazardous Wastes Treatment

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3. WASTE REDUCTION OPPORTUNITIES IN TIER 1 INDUSTRYTable 6: Waste Reduction Opportunities in Tier 1

Opportunity Description Measure Facility/Tier/Industry

Type

TypicalWaste

ReductionExpected

Pay-BackPeriod

Use computerizedlayout planningsystem

Manual cutting process leads tosignificant cutting waste anduseable raw materials beingdiscarded as waste

Use computerized layoutplanning systems (CAD-systems) in cutting to optimizethe mix of garment pieces andsizes. Could led to a yield ofmore than 90%.Case Study:A factory installed a system forcomplete automation of thecutting process. The cuttingwaste reduced from 20% to12%.The investment in machinewas around 450,000 USD. Thesaving was about 150,000USD /year and even higherbecause cost was saved inreduction of raw material andenergy use.

Garment Up to 8%reductionbased on casestudyexplained.

3 years.

Introduce somethread saving bestpractices

After end of each batch somethread is still left in the reel, andare not reused.

The machinists shall return allpartly used reels of thread atthe end of each batch/shift;

Garment A largegarmentmanufacturer

Immediate

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Type

TypicalWaste

ReductionExpected

Pay-BackPeriod

store them in a thread cabinetand reallocate them asnecessary. Do not allow newreels to be used when partlyused ones re available (it maybe necessary to keep thethread cabinet locked andallow only supervisors todispense thread)

had reduceditsconsumptionof thread by14% since theintroduction ofthread savingpractices

Optimize the cuttingratio.

During the production of “upper”and “lining” in the footwearmanufacturing the pieces to beused as component in the shoeare cut in leather and in othermaterial such as textile (Cotton,polyester, nylon), and coatedfabrics (PU and PVC).The average cutting rates are:- Leather: 25-35%- Textile and fabrics: 20-25%Cutting rate is defined as ratio ofweight of scrap to weight of rawmaterial used.

- The cutting ratio in leatheris generally beingoptimized by the operators.

- With less expensivematerials, the ratio can varyfrom country to country: theonly criterion of thefootwear manufacturer isthe optimization betweenlabour cost and materialcost.

Footwear

(The samemeasurecould beapplied foraccessoriesfactory also)

Reduction of25 to 30% incut waste ispossible

Immediate

Adopt “Just-in-time”manufacturingconcept

In footwear manufacturing someof the components of shoeincludes bottom filler (cork,

The footwear manufacturerpurchases most of thecomponents on an order to

Footwear(The samemeasure

60 to 80 % ofthe outdated

Immediate

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Type

TypicalWaste

ReductionExpected

Pay-BackPeriod

foam), shanks (metal, wood,plastic), heels (polystyrene,acrylonitrile butadiene styrene),eyelet (metal, plastic), laces(leather, cotton, polyester,nylon), threads (cotton,polyester, nylon), top pieces(PVC, vulcanized rubber),fasteners (metal, plastic fibers)

Every 2 to 3 years, a footwearmanufacturer can consider thatthese components are not goingto be used anymore. In that caseif they cannot be sold, theybecome waste

order basis (just in timeproduction concept)

could beapplied foraccessoriesfactory also)

unusedcomponents

Reduce wastevolume for effectivepost handling

The generation of “Buffing Dust”is a significant source in footwearunits. Handling powder fordisposal is an occupationalhealth issue and also an airbornedust issue at disposal site.

As an integral part of cyclone,multi-clone and bag-filtersystem, the de-dusted wasteshould be converted into“cake” form with an installationof cake forming machine.

Footwear Volumereduction by >60%Of originalvolume of dustin loose formto Cake

< 1 year(alsolegal)

On-site /off-siteenergy production

On-site management: wasteshaving high calorific value(plastic wastes, broken plastic

The feasibility of suchtechnology can be evaluatedeither for fairly large Factory or

All burnablewastes,except PVC

40 to 45% 3 to 4years

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Type

TypicalWaste

ReductionExpected

Pay-BackPeriod

using high calorificvalue

thread cones) and with aminimum economic throughput of> 5 tonne/hr can be subjected to“Pyrolysis with Plasma”technology. The gas producedcan be a fuel for oven, curingsystems, boiler, etc.Off-site management:For other lower quantity of wastegeneration, introduce shreddingat-source to reduce volumehandling for transportation andaim for sale to authorized energyproducing agency.

for cluster of likemindedindustries. Plasma typePyrolysis unit is commerciallynow available. In order tomake plasma pyrolysistechnology economicallyviable, the energy recoverypossibilities must be higher.Studies have shown that incase of 100% plastic wastepyrolyzed, the chemicalenergy released would be 2 to3 times more than energyneeded to pyrolyse the rawwaste. For more detail referSection D.

andrestriction onheavy metalsin feed

Effective reuse ofsewing and otherspent lube oil

There is no broad materialbalance system to account fortotal sewing oil and lube oilsupplied and discarded spent oilgenerated; all such wastes ishazardous wastes and sent todesignated agency.

Improve the waste accountingsystem (Material Go-down andHazardous Waste data) andexplore cascade reuse of lubeoil for non-sensitive rotaryequipment and/or sale as fuelvalue by proper vendorcomplying with norms.

All 30 to 40% ofcurrent wasteoil can bebeneficiallyutilized

instant

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Type

TypicalWaste

ReductionExpected

Pay-BackPeriod

Reuse of discardedplastic core, yarncones and poly bags

The stitching and embroiderysections generate various sizesof discarded plastic cones andcores. There is no propersegregation and wasteaccounting system, as how muchgoes to landfill and how muchreused through vendors.

These wastes are to beprevented in entering landfill.Proper segregation and wasteaccounting system has to beestablished. Explore “TakeBack Policy” with accessoriessuppliers. For any residualwastes, identify secondaryplastic product manufacturersfor post extrusion and valueadded product formation.

All stitching &embroidery

3 to 5%reduction inwaste going tolandfill

< 6months

Re-use of Cuttingwastes

In the factories where applicable,in some cases there is nosegregation for large cut piecesand small & fine cut pieces forsecuring value addition

Segregate small and fine cutpieces from large; thenintroduce proper wasteaccounting system.For large cut pieces identifyproper vendors for reuse andvalue added applications likeas filling material in toys,cushions etc.Promote internal reuse ofsmall and fine cut pieces inscreen printing area, generalhand cleaning by maintenancecrew, burning as fuel in boilerand spill containment purpose,

Cutting &embroiderysections

2 to 5%reduction insmall & finecut pieceswaste going tolandfill

6 months

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Type

TypicalWaste

ReductionExpected

Pay-BackPeriod

thereby reduction in overallwaste generation.For more details refer tosection D below.

Optimization of printpaste preparation andcontrol over surpluspreparation

Screen printing activity generatessurplus paste (expired paste) aswell as regular spills. Generallycertain excess is alwaysprepared (10%).

Introduce good housekeepingand good ,managementpractices (QA, advance orderstatus, tracking of inventoryetc.) to contain excesspreparation and avoidance ofexpired paste as HW(Hazardous Waste)

All 2 to 3%reduction fromexisting levelof wastegeneration

< 6months

Reduction in processscrap generation

During the “Outsole” productionthrough “Injection Molding”process in footwear industry, fourtypes of waste such as flash,carrots, product purge anddiscarded product due to qualitydefects are generated.

Review on certain periodicityeffectiveness of corrective andpreventive action plans forobserved deviations in off-specification product anddiscard supported by data fromwaste consolidation centre.

Footwear 1 to 2% Instant

Mold optimization foroutsole production.

During the “Outsole” productionin footwear industry using the“Injection Molding” process, fourtypes of waste such as flash,carrots, product purge and

- The mould must be astight as possible.

- The design of the mouldreduces the quantity andthe size of the carrots.

FootwearFactory

Up to 5%reductionpossible

Immediate

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Type

TypicalWaste

ReductionExpected

Pay-BackPeriod

discarded product due to qualitydefects could be generated.

- Worn moulds generallyproduces more wastes,which needs to bereplaced.

Refer section D for moredetails

Skill development andproduct designchange.

In Footwear and Apparelactivities, cutting wastes aregenerated, whose quantity isdirectly linked to pattern design.For achieving significantreduction in waste, co-ordinationamong Planning, Designing,Procurement, WasteConsolidation Centre and shopfloor personnel engaged incutting activities are required.

Through input specificationand skill development of shopfloor operator, obvious excesswaste generation can beminimized, supported by datafrom waste ConsolidationCentre. For significantreduction, other teammembers’ involvement isrequired through productdesign change.

All 1 to 1.5% Instant

Recycling defectiveand used shoes

The consumer discarded shoesvis-à-vis factory discarded shoesare not managed effectively.

On a collective basis,introduce “Deposit” schemethrough network of collectioncenters for a region. Thecollected wastes can then betaken to a central facility,where these wastes could beshredded to produce amaterial or surfacing Tennis,

Like mindedTier-1 andsuchequivalentfactories in aregion andlocalmunicipalagency

Pilot projectfor CSR case

Policytype

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Type

TypicalWaste

ReductionExpected

Pay-BackPeriod

Basketball courts, playgroundsand sports tracks

Avoid contaminationoffabrics/yarn/trimmings

Sometimes thefabrics/yarn/trimmings are notcovered leading tocontamination, which then couldnot be used in production andneed to be discarded as waste

Keep thefabrics/yarn/trimmingscovered whenever possible toavoid contamination

Garment 5 to 10% Immediate

Segregation andlabeling offabrics/yarn/trimmings

mix-ups, e.g. the accidental useof yarn of the same color butdifferent quality can lead to wastematerial

Keep fabrics/yarn/trimmingssegregated and clearlylabelled in separate areas ofwarehouse.Implement visual workplaceconcepts in factory.

Garment 5 to 10%reduction inwaste

Immediate

Improve on “sizemistakes”

There could be chance of sizemistake and the customer wouldreject the order leading to wastefinished products

In the case of sizing mistakes,try o “size down” or “size up”the batch of garments (e.g.garments could be sized downfrom “medium” to “small” andstill be acceptable forcustomer.

Garment 15 to 20% Immediate

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4. WASTE REDUCTION OPPORTUNITIES IN TIER 2 & 3 INDUSTRY

Textile dyeing/ tannery produces significant level of waste which is harmful to the environment and dangerous to the health if not

properly treated. Hazardous waste can be treated by chemical, thermal, biological, and physical methods. Chemical methods

include ion exchange, precipitation, oxidation and reduction, and neutralization (these methods are stated in WATER Volume –

SAVE Guideline). Among thermal methods is high-temperature incineration, which not only can detoxify certain organic wastes

but also can destroy them. Special types of thermal equipment are used for burning waste in solid form. These include the

fluidized-bed incinerator and multiple-hearth furnace. One problem posed by hazardous-waste incineration is the potential for air

pollution. Another thermal method could be considered is plasma pyrolysis, which using plasma technology to destroy high toxic

compounds and create energy from high calorific calo waste such as plastic wastes7

Biological treatment could be used are biodegradation or detoxification of a wide spectrum of hazardous substances by natural

microorganisms and availability of a wide range of biotechnological methods for complete destruction of hazardous wastes.

However, to intensify the bio treatment, nutrients and electron acceptors must be added, and optimal condition should be

maintained. On the other hand, there may be unexpected or negative effects mediated by microorganisms, such as emission of

odors or toxic gases during the bio treatment, and it may be difficult to manage the bio treatment system because of the complexity

and high sensitivity of the biological processes.

Several opportunities for hazardous waste reduction are listed in Section C (Effective reuse of sewing and other spent lube oil,

Optimization of print paste preparation and control over surplus preparation and On-site/ off-site energy production using waste

of high calorific value). Some additional opportunities are introduced below:

7 Jerry A. Nathanson, Hazardous-waste management, Encyclopaedia britannica,http://www.britannica.com/EBchecked/topic/257926/hazardous-waste-management/72403/Treatment

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Table 7: Additional Opportunities

Opportunity Description Measure Facility/Tier/Industry Type

Typical

Waste

Reduction

Expected

Pay-Back

Period

Reduction inhazardous wastefrom tannery finishingspray chamber

Currently, the compressorcatering to distributed finishingspray chamber is operated athigh pressure and low volume.Due to this, there is always anexcess chemical consumptionwhich ultimately forms as residuein spray chamber.

Assess the feasibility of settingthe centralized compressor at“Low Pressure High Volume”mode by trial and error (2.5 to3 Kg/sq.cm, as against 3 to 3.5Kg/Sq.cm). This fine tuning willresult in significant chemicalsaving and also reducedhazardous wastes generation.

Finishing areaSprayChambers

3 to 5% permonth Immediate

Minimize over sprayof dye or otherfinishing materials

Overspray at the finishingprocess could lead to waste ofthe finishing materials.

In finishing process,photoelectric controllers(“magic eye” sensors)minimize overspray of dyes orother finishing materials.Roller coating could be usedinstead of spray coating tocompletely avoid over-spraying.

By introducing a rotaryspraying system on one of itsfinishing machine, a companyreduced its waste spray from

GarmentWaste sprayreduced from40% to 20%

Less than2 months

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between 40-60% to 20-40%.Cost saving of USD40,000/annum was achieved.The cost of new system wasonly 6000 USD. The pay backwas less than 2 months

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5. WASTE REDUCTION OPPORTUNITIES IN GENERAL FOR ALL TIERS

Table 8: Waste Reduction Opportunities for All Tiers


Type

TypicalWaste

ReductionExpected

Pay-BackPeriod

Sell waste to externalrecycling companies

Some of the waste are sold toincinerators or given to municipallandfills which is a cost to thecompany. Instead opportunity towork with local recyclingcompanies shall be explored.This opportunity highly dependon local context and regulations.

- Store plastic tubes, reels,bags and sheeting and sellthem to local plasticrecycler

- Store damaged cardboardboxes, fabric roll, tubes andsell them to local paper andcardboard recycler.

Tier 1, 2 & 3 100% wastereduction inwastedumped inlandfill

Immediate.Extraincomegeneration.

Sell redundant stocks Redundant stocks are disposedas waste because of improperstorage facilities.

Do not consider redundantstock as waste, try to findalternative customer.

Tier 1, 2 & 3 Depends onredundantstock

Immediate

On-site anaerobicdigestion of foodwaste with methanecapture (> 1tonne/Day)

For factory population size >5000 employees, on-site,composting may be notattractive. In such cases, ananaerobic digester with methaneutilization mode should becontemplated.

The decentralized anaerobicdigester with methaneutilization is a growing market,especially in Asian countries.While opting for such system,proper thermal insulation ofdigester, pre-sorter, dedicatedgas holder and dedicated gasburner with “safety”

Canteen anddormitory

20 to 35% 1.5 to 2years

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Type

TypicalWaste

ReductionExpected

Pay-BackPeriod

infrastructure should beintegrated.

On-site compositingof food and wet waste(for < 500 Kg/day)

In some of the factories whereapplicable, the kitchenpreparatory waste, excess andleft-over food waste and all suchwet wastes are currentlydisposed of or handed over topiggery in some cases. Handingover to the piggery attracts“Environmental Risks” as qualityof such waste and handing overwithin certain reasonable timeframe is not streamlined. Thiswaste generation is at 60 to 100grams/person/day.

There are organic wasteconverters with enhancedcomposting processes. On-site installation of this systemwill eliminate > 30% wastegoing to landfill. The compostproduced could be used forlandscaping purpose. Themoisture content of waste forcompost must be secured <45%. For this, shredded paper,cutting grass (dried) etc. areadded as additives andsupplemented by “bio-culture”for quick production ofcompost. This opportunity maybe not be applicable for smallorganization where usuallycomposting is done offsite.For more explanation refersection D.

Canteen &Dormitory

20 to 35% < 1 year

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Type

TypicalWaste

ReductionExpected

Pay-BackPeriod

Reduction indiscarded officestationary wastes

In some of the factories wherethere is no recycling of wastepaper, the A4 size and otheroffice purpose paper isconsumed and after usagediscarded as waste

The usage practice to bereviewed for at-sourcereduction in consumptionpattern by enhancingcomputer applications. Alsoassess cost of A4 size papersaving versus disposal cost fordiscarded paper.

Office,purchase anddataprocessingcenter

10 to 30%reductionfrom existingA4 sizeconsumption

Instant

Introduce “TakeBack” Policy

Many chemicals are procured inwhich after usage generatediscarded containers, barrels,carboys, bottles etc. Withappropriate regulatorycompliance of practices. Alsokey incoming raw materialscome along with plastic orcardboard cone, cheese cone,packing cone etc., which againneed to be disposed. Pallets arealso included here. Cardboardboxes, pallets, yarn cones, etc.can be reused. In addition,

Central stores and waste theConsolidation Centre can putforth a “Take Back” Policy, withan aim to reduce the number ofbarrels, carboys etc. handledfor disposal. Wherever there isa bulk procurement optionavailable, the same may beexplored. These approacheswill result in a reduction inprocurement cost as well asreduced waste handling. Formore explanation refer sectionD below.

Procurement 10 to 15%reduction innumber ofbarrels etc.generated

Sustainedeffort withmaterialsuppliers

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Type

TypicalWaste

ReductionExpected

Pay-BackPeriod

Fabric and leather waste can stillbe used as filling material, or tomake small products, etc.

Effective recycling ofdiscarded cardboard,carton, marker paperand office papers

In some of the factories thesewastes are not organized orsegregated. These waste couldbe stored in centralized storageand beneficially sold for valueaddition.

Improve present practice forcombined collection ofcompatible wastes, reducevolume by “baling” and effectsale as raw material to“wastepaper industries” orthrough vendor network forwaste utilization.

Raw materialgo-down andproduct go-downsections

10 to 15% ofnon-hazardouswastes forenhancedreuse

6 months

Packaging with on-site waste

The product is packed withprimary, secondary and finallytransportable form of woodenpallet.

For relatively low weightpackaging, available card-board waste could be used toprepare stiffer cardboardpallet on-site.

Packagingarea

5 to 10% < 6 months

Promote contractmanufacturing firmconcept

The factories are managingwastes “individually” by variouson-site and off-site options.

Establish “WasteConsolidation Centre” andadminister through a “ContractManufacturing Firm” forrealizing “Wealth from Waste”.Some of the options couldinclude, White leather madeout of cutting waste of leather

Cluster ofTier-1, 2 & 3andlikemindedfactories in aregion

Pilot projectfor a cluster

2 to 3years

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Type

TypicalWaste

ReductionExpected

Pay-BackPeriod

tannery, green rubber fromdiscarded tire, energy fromwastes etc. For moreexplanation refer section D.

Educate and motivateemployees

Waste could be generatedbecause of lack of awarenessfrom the staff working inproduction area on the conceptand cost of “waste”

Educate and motivateemployees regularly inconcept of “waste avoidance”and proper “waste separation”.Information could be providedin the form of a booklet usinginfo graphics which is easy tounderstand.

There could be incentivesprovided for employees foravoiding and managing waste.

Train the employees torecognize faults and to makethe right decisions.

Tier 1, 2 & 3 Up to 10%could bereduced

6 to 12months

Use of reusablearticles in canteen

If the factories have largecanteen and of the employeesare provided with canteen food,then there could be chance that

Canteen could start usingreusable articles instead of use& throw. Staff using the platesand cups must be educated on

Tier 1, 2 & 3 Up to 100%reduction inuse & throwwaste

3 to 5months.

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Type

TypicalWaste

ReductionExpected

Pay-BackPeriod

canteen are using use & throwmaterials.

best use of the plates and cupsso that water used for cleaningcould be also reduced.

Have a good QA(Quality Assurance)system to reducerejects

Sometime the finished productsdon’t meet the customerspecification and are rejected.

Implement a good QA systemwith process and people tokeep to customer’srequirement and specificationto reduce reject levels (beaware of your capabilities andstay within them)

Tier 1, 2 & 3 Up to 5% Immediate

Residual kitchen oilas bio-diesel rawmaterial

Kitchen activity generatesresidual edible oil (after frying),which is currently disposed alongwith wastewater or wet garbage.

Introduce proper wastecollection system for spentkitchen oil and effect sale asfuel value (Bio-diesel input) byvendor selection.

Tier 1, 2 & 3 100% kitchenoil wasteeliminatedenteringwastewateror wetgarbage

instant

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6. DETAIL EXPLANATION OF OPPORTUNITIESSome of the opportunities explained in the above table need more explanation for better

understanding and they are explained in the section below using some figures.

6.1.Waste Consolidation CentreThe factories have a centralized “Waste Consolidation Centre” from where on-site decisions for

reuse/recycle are made and decisions for various off-site options like sale, reuse/recycle and

physical shredding or destructions are made, including secured disposal to notified agency. At-

source waste reduction demand teamwork and long term product development strategy,

involving Planning, Designing and Procurement departments for achieving a significant/

tangible waste reduction measures. The obvious wastes that can be reduced at-source and

wastes that are currently disposed into landfill are concerns for improvement options.

6.2.Optimize the molds during the outsole production using injection moldingprocess.

Waste is generated during “Outsole” production activity through the “Injection Molding”

process. Four types of waste are generated, they are, flash, carrots, product purge and

discarded product due to quality defects.

Due to the pressure, the thermoplastic material EVA (Ethylene Vinyl Acetate) can flow out

between the two parts of the mold, which is called “Flash”. This will be regularly generated

The mold contains a tube through which the material is injected. The “Carrots” are

considered as waste. This will also be regularly generated and linked to quality of injected

material.

When the injection machine stops working (rest, Team change etc.) or when the production

changes the colour, some product purges are generated (cannot be used afterwards)

The final “Outsole” product, could be defective and discarded as waste.

All the above waste generated can be reduced by the following options:

The mold must be as tight as possible

The design of the mold reduces the quantity and size of the “Carrots”

Worn-out molds generally produces more wastes

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Product discard depends on control over “QA/QC” on line production process

6.3.Take Back PolicyReduce waste in key production areas (cutting area, buffing area, EVA scrap, product discard

etc.) by introduction of “Take Back” policy to Closed Loop Materials (CLM) by the CLM Vendors

and water based chemical containers by Chemical vendors, on-site composting or anaerobic

digestion with methane utilization and on-site waste to energy are possible options, as

presented below:

Figure 3: Take Back Policy: Waiting for pick-up

6.4.Plasma type Pyrolysis

Plasma pyrolysis is one of the technologies which could be opted for disposal of plastic waste.

In Plasma pyrolysis, high temperature is produced using plasma torch in oxygen starved

environment to destroy plastic waste efficiently and in an eco-friendly manner. Pyrolysis of

plastic (polyethylene) provides 90% combustible gases. It would be appreciable to recover

energy to make plasma pyrolysis economically viable.

This technology is used for conversion of combustible waste into energy. In India, a trial plant

was studied using 15 Kg/hr, tested for various emissions and allowed commercial exploitation

of such technology from waste to energy.

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Case Study: One plant near Pune (India) generates about 2 MW power using not less than 5

T/hr waste which is made up of 80% solid hazardous & combustible wastes (mostly shredded

plastics, cotton wastes etc.) and 20% liquid Hazardous wastes under “TSDF – Treatment,

Storage and Disposal Facility” scheme.

An experiment was conducted by the Central Pollution Control Board of India to study the

economic feasibility of plasma type pyrolysis technology8. The results of experiment proved that

in the case of 100% plastic waste being pyrolyzed, the chemical energy released was 2 to 3

times more than the energy needed to pyrolyze the raw waste, where as in case of 100% cotton

the released energy is almost equal to energy spent.

6.5. Reuse of cutting wasteIn some of the factories the following practices are observed for reuse of cutting waste and

this best practice could be replicated in many factories where applicable.

a) The cutting waste is collected and stored in dedicated area

b) People are deployed to segregate “All White cuttings”

c) The remaining cutting waste is sold for other value added product making

d) White cutting are sent to “Spinning & Weaving” factory, where the waste is reportedly

shredded further to get small pieces and then subjected to tearing to get loose fibers.

Such loose fibers are then blended along with virgin fibers, then the regular process of

spinning and weaving continues.

e) Some of the “Mixed Cutting” waste are re-used to produce “Mixed Fiber”. Such material

then can be used for making plastic concrete or geo textiles or upholstery adjuvant or feed

material for “Wet Wipes” etc.

The following infrastructure/ technology would be need to implement the above mentioned

best practice:

a) Cutting machine for conversion of fabric cut waste into desired 6mm to 20 mm or

equivalent.

8 Report on plastic waste disposal through plasma pyrolysis technology by the Central PollutionControl Board of India. Dec 2013 report.

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b) Tearing machine to further loosen the pieces to get fibers (mixture of fiber dust & short

fibers, unopened pieces, fibers with different length etc.)

c) Sieve to get desired fiber mix of desired specifications – reclaimed fibers as product

d) Use this reclaimed fiber to produce value added products like plastic concrete, erosion

protection stuff, geo textiles, upholstery material ingredient or as feed to “Wet Wipes” etc.

6.6.Organic Waste ConverterWaste to Food Composter or commonly known as “Organic Waste Converter” is a pre-

engineered product system available in modular capacity of 250 kg/day of curing capacity. It

converts the organic waste into compost by reducing its volume to almost 90% of the

original. Additives like dried leaves, shredded papers, coir pith waste etc. (for moisture control)

and microbial cultures are added to shorten the composting period. Heat generated during

composting activity is preserved by providing insulation. The increased temperature kills

pathogens and also accelerates the composting process. This is a continuous process and is

controlled electronically. A blower is provided to supply fresh air to microorganisms. The

exhaust is led to activated carbon filter. This is suitable for canteens and residential apartments.

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Figure 4: Waste Food Composter

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6.7.Caustic Recovery using NF (Nano Filtration) System (Koch Membrane)The NF system separates water, sodium hydroxide and mono-valent ions from traces of organic

compounds using NF membranes with a pore size between those of reverse osmosis and ultra-

filtration membranes, hence providing a useful separation technology. Commercial cases

demonstrate recovery of caustic from the alkaline wastewater from the mercerization of cotton

fabric. 98% volumetric recovery has been achieved with NF membranes. Since NaOH recovery

is proportional to volumetric recovery, appropriate flux rate must be arrived by conducting trials

of factory situation. The flux rate of 18 to 20 Litres/SQM/hr has been tested using SelRo (MPT-

34). This membrane is a polysulfone type membrane with a negative surface charge by

chemical grafting of negatively charged hydrophilic groups onto a substrate. It has a molecular

cut-off of 200 and is highly resistant to alkali up to an 8% caustic solution.

Figure 5: Caustic Purification prior to Evaporator (Mercerization application)

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6.8.Dupont Caustic Recovery SystemThe Du Pont Separation Systems’ Caustic recovery system is based on CARRE® patented

filtration technology, which combines porous stainless steel tubing and state-of-the-art, formed-

in place membranes. For more than ten years, this technology has provided innovative raw

material recovery systems for the textile industry that are durable and easy to maintain. A large-

scale commercial installation has been operating for several years in caustic recovery at a major

South Carolina textile finishing plant.

6.9.Custom Designed Caustic Recover SystemContaminated caustic from the scour saturator and/or the mercerizer range is fed to the

membrane system. The membrane system filters and cleans up to 95% of the caustic feed

stream while concentrating the contaminants. The clean caustic is recycled directly to the

scouring and bleaching processes as well as to the dye house. Clean caustic also can be sent

to evaporators for concentration and then reused in mercerization. The concentrated

contaminants from the feed system are discharged to waste treatment.

6.10. Size Recovery Systems (Applicable for Vertical Textile Mills)The size recovery is a very good business proposition, but demands integration efforts between

Weaving and Wet Processing complexes. Generally, application of membrane separation

technologies for in-process application also demands few trials to ascertain field specific fouling

issues and extent of commercial recovery. Top management and individual profit centers

(Weaving and Wet Processing) have to innovatively think through cultural process changefor exploiting the size recovery approach. These measures would call for special focus on

proper fabric design, operating equipment to minimize sizing requirements, selection of

appropriate homogenous size chemical, proper size mixing and proper worker training/attitude.

Recovery of synthetic (PVA: Poly Vinyl Alcohol) size can be performed using membrane

filtration equipment. Size recovery is not widely practiced in the textile industry, however, for a

variety of reasons. A few successful size recovery systems are currently in operation, but these

systems can recover only certain types of sizes, notably PVA and Poly Vinyl Acetate. PVA

accounts for approximately one third of total size consumption in textiles. The bulk of size used

P a g e | 40

is Penetrose & Tapioca starch, which degrades during de-sizing and cannot be recovered. The

present and proposed system is illustrated below:

Figure 7: Proposed alternative system for Sizing and De-sizing

Figure 6: Present system for sizing and de-sizing

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6.11. Rotary Biological ContractorThis sewage reclamation technology is very popular for decentralized application (capacity less

than 1500 m3/day) to secure wastewater recycling of high grade quality. It consumes 1/10th the

energy that of any conventional treatment system, pre-engineered, modular in nature,

automatic in operation, demands extremely low level of spares and aesthetically appealing. As

it is a compact package plant, it can be located below ground level or upon roof top or in any

layout configuration.

Figure 8: RBC: Rotary Biological Contractor

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BIBLIOGRAPHY

ADB – The Economics of Climate Change, viewed November 2013,http://www.climatechange-foodsecurity.org/uploads/ABD_ec_climate-change-se-asia.pdf

EIRIS, viewed November 2013,http://www.eiris.org/files/research%20publications/ClimateChangeTrackerAsia09.pdf

IFC-EHS Guideline Textile Manufacturing

Measuring Sustainable Development, viewed November 2013,http://unstats.un.org/unsd/broaderprogress/pdf/Measuring_sustainable_development%20(UNECE,OECD,Eurostat).pdf

MIT Sloan – Management Review, viewed November 2013,http://sloanreview.mit.edu/reports/sustainability-strategy/commitment/

Oxfam Research – Review of Climate Change & Adaption Practices in South Asia, viewedNovember 2013,http://www.oxfam.org/sites/www.oxfam.org/files/rr-climate-change-adaptation-south-asia-161111-en.pdf

Plasma pyrolysis and gasification of plastics waste - a review. Journal of Scientific &Industrial Research, Vol. 69, March 2010.

Plasma pyrolysis of medical waste. Special section: Plasma applications. Current Science,Vol. 8, No.3, August 2002.

PUMA annual report, 2013.

PUMA and KfW (DEG), SAVE project, China, Indonesia, Cambodia and Bangladesh pilotonsite

Report on plastic waste disposal through plasma pyrolysis technology by the CentralPollution Control Board of India, December 2013

Sustainability Management & Reporting, viewed November 2013,http://www.unepfi.org/fileadmin/documents/smr_benefits_dec2006_01.pdf

Sustainability Reporting Trends 2011, viewed November 2013,https://www.globalreporting.org/resourcelibrary/GRI-Reporting-Trends-2011.pdf

Textile Industry. The Journal of Cotton Science, Vol.11, 2007.

United Nations Statistics Division, viewed November 2013,

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http://unstats.un.org/unsd/environment/qindicators.htm

UNFCCC – Kyoto Protocol, viewed November 2013,http://unfccc.int/kyoto_protocol/doha_amendment/items/7362.php

UNEP – Global Partnership on Waste Management, viewed November 2013,http://www.unep.org/gpwm/InformationPlatform/WasteManagementGuidelines/tabid/104478/Default.aspx

UNEP, Promoting Resource Efficiency in Small and Medium sized Enterprise, Industrialtraining handbook, 2010

UNIDO, Waste generated in the leather products

Wang K. L. et all, 2004, Handbook of Industrial and Hazadous Wastes TreatmentJerry A. Nathanson, Hazardous-waste management, Encyclopaedia britannica, viewedNovember 2014, http://www.britannica.com/EBchecked/topic/257926/hazardous-waste-management/72403/Treatment

World Data Center, viewed December 2013, http://www.icsu-wds.org/services/data-portal

World Economic Forum – Sustainable Tomorrow’s Report, viewed November 2013,http://www3.weforum.org/docs/WEF_CI_SustainabilityForTomorrowsConsumer_Report_2009.pdf; http://www.epa.gov/iaq/combust.html

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LIST OF FIGURES and TABLES

Figure 1: Triple Win ..................................................................................................................9Figure 2: Quick map................................................................................................................11Figure 3: Take Back Policy: Waiting for pick-up......................................................................34Figure 4: Waste Food Composter ...........................................................................................37Figure 5: Caustic Purification prior to Evaporator (Mercerization application).........................38Figure 6: Present system for sizing and de-sizing ..................................................................40Figure 7: Proposed alternative system for Sizing and De-sizing.............................................40Figure 8: RBC: Rotary Biological Contractor...........................................................................41

Table 1: Waste products in Tier 1 ...........................................................................................12Table 2: Waste products in Tier 2&3.......................................................................................12Table 3: Waste generated in different types of Tier one factories ...........................................13Table 4: Waste Quantities in Textile Production Process .......................................................14Table 5: The following are the trend in waste generation pattern ...........................................14Table 6: Waste Reduction Opportunities in Tier 1 ..................................................................16Table 7: Additional Opportunities............................................................................................25Table 8: Waste Reduction Opportunities for All Tiers .............................................................27

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