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Discover: Santa Fe Santa Fe (New Mexico) 'Santa Fe , founded in 1607, is the capital of the state of New Mexico in the United States. With an elevation of 7000 feet, it is not only the United States' oldest state capital but its highest. Its population of about 70,000, doesn't make it the most populous capital, but that's part of its charm. Santa Fe is consistently rated one of the world's top travel destinations for its confluence of scenic beauty, long history (at least by US standards), cultural diversity, and extraordinary concentration of arts, music and fine dining. Understand[edit] Statue of Kateri Tekakwitha, St. Francis CathedralHistory[edit] Santa Fe was once the capital of Spain's, and then Mexico's, territories north of the Rio Grande, but its visible history extends far beyond the arrival of the Spanish; it is thought to have been the site of Puebloan villages that had already been long abandoned by the time the Spanish arrived in 1607. It became the state capital when the territory of New Mexico achieved statehood in 1912. In the early 20th century, the area attracted a number of artists, such as Georgia O'Keeffe and Alfred Stieglitz. The region remains important on America's art scene. It is the third largest art market in America, behind New York City and Los Angeles, which is pretty impressive considering

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Santa Fe (New Mexico)


Page 1: Discover: Santa Fe

Discover: Santa Fe

Santa Fe (New Mexico)

'Santa Fe , founded in 1607, is the capital of the state of New Mexico in the United States. With anelevation of 7000 feet, it is not only the United States' oldest state capital but its highest. Itspopulation of about 70,000, doesn't make it the most populous capital, but that's part of its charm.Santa Fe is consistently rated one of the world's top travel destinations for its confluence of scenicbeauty, long history (at least by US standards), cultural diversity, and extraordinary concentration ofarts, music and fine dining.

Understand[edit] Statue of Kateri Tekakwitha, St. FrancisCathedralHistory[edit]

Santa Fe was once the capital of Spain's, and then Mexico's, territories north of the Rio Grande, butits visible history extends far beyond the arrival of the Spanish; it is thought to have been the site ofPuebloan villages that had already been long abandoned by the time the Spanish arrived in 1607. Itbecame the state capital when the territory of New Mexico achieved statehood in 1912.

In the early 20th century, the area attracted a number of artists, such as Georgia O'Keeffe andAlfred Stieglitz. The region remains important on America's art scene. It is the third largest artmarket in America, behind New York City and Los Angeles, which is pretty impressive considering

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Santa Fe's population relative to NYC and LA. The arrival of Igor Stravinsky and the founding of theSanta Fe Opera, one of the world's leading opera companies, had a similarly invigorating andenduring influence on the musical community. Many people go to Santa Fe for spiritual gatheringsand to practice meditative arts at the many spas and resorts that are in and around Santa Fe.

Santa Fe is rooted in paradoxes. On the one hand, it is one of the United States' oldest cities (bysome reckonings the oldest), and many residents can trace their roots and property holdings in townback to the 17th century. On the other hand, it has also been the target of a teeming influx ofwealthy immigrants in the last 30 years or so that has spurred a great deal of new construction andcreated inflated prices for real estate -- and drastically elevated taxes on old family properties, manyof which are owned by families that can't afford the taxes. The tension between new and old, richand poor, etc are a persistent undercurrent in the community. These and other factors (not the leastof which is a well-deserved reputation as a haven for flamboyant characters) contribute to Santa Fe'suniqueness.

Climate[edit]ClimateJanFebMarAprMayJunJulAugSepOctNovDec Daily highs (F) 43 48 54 64 74 8487 84 81 68 52 45 Nightly lows (F) 19 22 26 34 44 53 58 56 50 39 24 19 Precipitation (in) 0.5 0.5 0.50.4 0.9 0.7 2 2.3 0.6 0.6 0.3 0.3 Check Santa Fe's 7 day forecast at NOAA

Much of the city's attractiveness, from both scenic and cultural perspectives, arises from its settingin the foothills of the Sangre de Cristo Mountains. This location produces a mild continental climatewith four distinct seasons. Winters are pleasant, with day-time highs usually in the 40s (Fahrenheit),often "feeling" warmer due to the sunny conditions. Snow varies wildly from year to year; somewinters see almost no snow, while others will have several individual storms dropping a foot or moreeach. (The sun and high altitude mean that roads usually aren't clogged too badly, even by the bigstorms, for more than a day or two, as the snow melts rapidly.) Spring, usually dry and moderate intemperature, is still probably the least pleasant time to visit from a weather perspective, because ofstrong winds. Early summer (June, early July) is hot and dry, with highs around 90, but gives wayaround mid-July to a truly delightful climate as summer, monsoonal thunderstorms peel off themountains and cool the afternoons down. Bring rainwear if visiting in July or August. The monsoonstypically die out in early September leading to a fall with dry, sunny days and clear, crisp evenings;first frost is usually in October, with snow starting to stick in the mountains at about that time.

One caution: the elevation is high enough to challenge the lungs of the visitor freshly up from sealevel. It's wise to spend your first day on relatively sedentary activities (museums, walking thedowntown area) and move to more active things after you've had some time to acclimatize.

By plane[edit]

American Eagle Airlines serves the Santa Fe Municipal Airport (IATA: SAF) with three daily flightsfrom Dallas/Fort Worth. All of the flights use Embraer 140 regional jets.

If entering New Mexico via the larger Albuquerque airport, simply rent a car and drive, as there iscurrently no commuter air service connecting the two airports. You can also take the Rail Runnercommuter train (see below) or one of the shuttle buses such as Sandia Shuttle [1], which will pickyou up at the Albuquerque airport and drop you off at one of a handful of locations in Santa Fe.

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By rail[edit] A Rail Runner train arriving

A commuter rail line, the New Mexico Rail Runner Express [2], connects Santa Fe to Albuquerqueand surrounding communities (from downtown Albuquerque you can catch a shuttle to the airport,ABQ). There are currently three stations open in Santa Fe: the Santa Fe Depot at the railyards onGuadalupe Street near the Sanbusco Center, the South Capitol station on Alta Vista Drive betweenCerrillos Road and St. Francis Drive, and the NM 599 station at I-25 and NM 599 southwest of town.The Santa Fe Depot will be more useful for sightseeing, as it puts you in the historic downtown areawithin relatively easy walking distance of the plaza, with a shuttle circulating around the downtownarea if you don't want to walk. The South Capitol and NM 599 stations are meant more forcommuters. The Rail Runner runs daily, although service can be limited outside the weekday rushhour periods. Fares are based on how far you ride; a day pass will usually be in the range of $5-$9.Tickets can be purchased online or from ticket agents on the train.

The major Amtrak route across the Southwest, the Southwest Chief, stops at Lamy about 15 milessouth of Santa Fe off US Highway 285. The once-daily trains stop in Lamy mid-afternoon, and ashuttle van service can take you to Santa Fe. The station in Lamy has an old cafe car serving lunch,food vendors on the platform, and picnic tables beneath shady cottonwoods.

There is an excursion train from Santa Fe to Lamy (the Santa Fe Southern Railway, below under"See") which is a pleasant way to get to Lamy to board an Amtrak train, but it returns to Santa Febefore either Amtrak train arrives there. Travelers with bicycles may find the shuttle van to Santa Feis unable to transport their bicycles unless special arrangements have been made; an alternative isto send any luggage ahead via the shuttle and ride the bicycle - the rail line used by the excursiontrain is a federally designated rail trail but currently between Lamy and US 285 you must travel viathe road. From US 285 to downtown Santa Fe there is a trail parallel to the tracks.

By car[edit]

Santa Fe lies along Interstate 25, which skirts the city. Be suspicious of weather conditions if comingto Santa Fe on this road. Santa Fe is nearly 1500ft (470m) above Albuquerque, and on I-25, most ofthe elevation change is on a single long, steep hill known as "La Bajada." La Bajada hill is hairy todrive during winter snowstorms and is occasionly closed for periods of several hours. East of town, I-25 North goes over a moderate pass along the southern end of the Sangre de Cristo Mountainsbefore heading out into the plains; this too can be closed during blizzards.

If conditions are good and you're not in a hurry, consider using back roads as an alternative to I-25 ifcoming from Albuquerque. State road 14 passes along the east side of the Sandia Mountains andthrough the quaint little towns of Madrid and Cerrillos before joining the interstate just south ofSanta Fe.

Travellers following the Route 66 itinerary should note that Santa Fe was on the "original" Route 66,although it was bypassed during the 1930s as a result of some curious political shenanigans and themuch shorter, "modern" Route 66 didn't go anywhere near here. See the "Original alignment in NewMexico" section of the Route 66 article for tips on how to get here "authentically." Coming from

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points east, you might also consider entering town via the Santa Fe Trail itinerary, which sharesroads with the Route 66 itinerary near Santa Fe.

Get around[edit] Downtown map

Overview map

Santa Fe has a small but vibrant downtown that is not only walkable, but walked, often, by manypeople late into the nights, particularly in summertime when the tourists flood in. Parking can be aproblem during the summer, but look for parking lots (fee) near St. Francis Cathedral, the newConvention Center, and between Water and San Francisco Streets west of the Plaza. If in town forthe Santa Fe Indian Market, plan on parking away from downtown and taking a shuttle, e.g. from DeVargas Mall. Limited, but improving, public transportation is available at other times via Santa FeTrails [3], the city's bus service. The North Central Regional Transit District [4] "Blue Buses"provides free bus service Monday through Friday with routes that connect the counties andcommunities of Santa Fe, Taos, Los Alamos and Rio Arriba.

The main roads through town are St. Francis Drive (US 84/285) from north to south, Cerrillos Road(NM SR 14) from the downtown area southwest to I-25 and beyond, Old Santa Fe Trail and itsoffshoot Old Pecos Trail from downtown southeast to I-25, and St. Michaels Drive and Rodeo Roadand its offshoots, both connecting Old Pecos Trail and Cerrillos east to west. Most outlyingattractions are accessible via one of these roads. The downtown area is a remarkable warren ofsmall roads that you really don't want to drive on; park your car and walk. Streets there tend towander (Paseo de Peralta, one of the main roads in the downtown area, almost completes a loop)and, even when apparently rectilinear, are not necessarily aligned to true north/south/east/west.

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Take extra care for pedestrians and cyclists, many streets have sharp turns.

If you're bound for the Santa Fe Opera from Albuquerque or points south, consider taking the SantaFe Relief Route (NM SR 599), which leaves I-25 south of the Cerrillos Road exit, bypasses most ofSanta Fe, and meets US 84/285 just south of the Opera. This can be a good way of getting to lodgingand restaurants on the north side of town (e.g. Gabriel's, cited below) as well; although it's a fewmiles out of the way, the much less chaotic driving, particularly around rush hour, providesconsiderable compensation.

Once you get to Santa Fe, consider taking a tour of downtown. Several companies offer open-airtram tours, like The Loretto Line Tours [5] (available in the parking lot of the Loretto Chapel). Thesetours last about 1.5 hours and give you a sense of the architecture, culture and history of thedowntown area.

Like many towns initiated by the Spanish, Santa Fe has a central square that is a gathering place forall types. For hours of entertainment, pull up a bench and people watch; you'll rapidly gain anappreciation for how the "City Different" nickname applies. Especially nice in the summer eveningsas the temperatures drop (although rain may drop as well) and the people come out.

Santa Fe Southern Railway, 410 S Guadalupe St, +1 505 989-8600, [6]. Offers sightseeing railroadrides from the railroad station in the middle of town, to Lamy to the south (with the Amtrak station).The good news is that there are several departures, some involving food service (check the website), and the train itself is interesting and colorful. The bad news is that the route that it follows,although advertised by the railway as featuring "the subtle beauty of the high desert," is generallynot as scenic as the really scenic high country to the north and east, or simply walking around thedowntown area. Fares start at $32 round-trip for adults, with discounts for seniors and children.editMuseums[edit]

Santa Fe has a variety of interesting museums, most in the downtown area and easily reached onfoot. Museum Hill [7], south of downtown, is accessible via public transportation. The first four listedbelow are sub-units of the Museum of New Mexico, [8], for which you can buy a shared pass for $20that allows access to all four museums and the Museum of Spanish Colonial Art within a four-dayperiod. If you only have time for one, individual passes are available.

Palace of the Governors / New Mexico History Museum, 105 E Palace Ave (on Santa Fe Plaza), +1505 476-5200, [9]. Tu-Th, Sa-Su 10AM-5PM, F 10AM-8PM (). The oldest public building in the UnitedStates, the Palace of the Governors is a 17th-century building that once served as the main capitolbuilding and now houses an excellent historical museum and shop, with exhibits on the history of thebuilding and a functioning antique print press. Behind the Palace is the New Mexico HistoryMuseum, with three floors of exhibits on the history of New Mexico, including numerous artifactsfrom the prehistory to the present. Local Native American artists sell their work beneath the portalfacing the Plaza [10]. $9 adults, youth 16 and under free (). edit New Mexico Museum of Art, 107 WPalace Ave (just west of the Palace of the Governors), +1 505 476-5072, [11]. Tu-Th, Sa-Su 10AM-5PM, F 10AM-8PM. Though it has been outflanked by the O'Keeffe Museum to some extent, thismuseum has a somewhat more diverse, although still New-Mexico-centric, collection. The Museum'sSt. Francis Auditorium is one of the primary venues in town for concerts, particularly of a classicalor folk flavor. $9 adults, youth 16 and under free (). edit Museum of International Folk Art, 706Camino Lejo (on Museum Hill), +1 505 476-1200, [12]. Tu-Su 10AM-5PM (). Of particular delight inthis museum is its massive Girard exhibition, which contains many large, colorful displays of toys,nativity scenes, textiles, model villages, and traditional arts from around the world. The museumalso features a superb collection of local Hispanic art as well as a good roster of changing exhibits.

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Home of the Santa Fe International Folk Art Market [13] held in July (see under "Do"/"Festivals"). $9adults, youth 16 and under free (). edit Museum of Indian Arts & Culture, 710 Camino Lejo (onMuseum Hill), +1 505 476-1250, [14]. Tu-Su 10AM-5PM (). A large museum with American Indianartworks and exhibits on their culture and history, including a rather superb collection of potteryand displays of both historic and contemporary Indian life. $9 adults, youth 16 and under free. editSITE Santa Fe, 1606 Paseo De Peralta, +1 505 989-1199, [15]. Th,Sa 10AM-5PM, F 10AM-7PM, Sunoon-5PM. A private contemporary arts venue with an ongoing schedule of exhibitions of artists whomerit international recognition - this is really cutting edge stuff. $10 adults, $5 students/seniors, freeon Fridays and Saturday mornings. edit Museum of Spanish Colonial Art, 750 Camino Lejo (onMuseum Hill), +1 505 982-2226, [16]. Tu-Su 10AM-5PM. A small but splendid museum whichshowcases many Hispano artworks and artifacts from the original Spanish settlers of the area. Themuseum also sponsors the annual Spanish Market [17] (see under "Do"/"Festivals"). $6 (). editGeorgia O'Keeffe Museum, 217 Johnson St (just north of downtown), +1 505 946-1000, [18]. Sa-Th10AM-5PM, F 10AM-8PM. Devoted to the 20th-century artist who settled near Abiquiu, a small townnorth of Santa Fe. Only free after 5pm on the first Friday of every month, and only applies to NewMexico residents. $8 (). edit Wheelwright Museum of the American Indian, 704 Camino Lejo (onMuseum Hill), +1 505 982-4636 (toll free: +1 800 607-4636), [19]. M-Sa 10AM-5PM, Su 1PM-5PM.Excellent Native American art collection, with a quaint little gift shop, the Case Trading Post, thatsells superb examples of Native arts that reflect the quality of the collection. Frequent specialevents. Free. edit Institute of American Indian Arts Museum, 108 Cathedral Place (downtown acrossthe street from St. Francis Cathedral), +1 505 983-8900 (toll free: +1 888 922-4242), [20]. M-Sa10AM-5PM, Su noon-5PM. The Institute for American Indian Arts (IAIA, [21]) is a long-standingSanta Fe institution that helps to promote the Santa Fe Indian Market [22] (see under"Do"/"Festivals"). Their museum holds a superb collection of contemporary Indian art. Adults $5,students and seniors (62+) $2.50; discounts for New Mexico residents and tribal members. editRancho de los Golondrinas, 334 Los Pinos Rd (well outside the center of town), +1 505 471-2261(fax: +1 505 471-5623), [23]. Jun-Sep W-Su 10AM-4PM. A massive outdoor "living history" museumportraying Spanish colonial days, with reconstructions of a village, farms, orchards, a vineyard, anda large water mill. In May you'll be dodging swarms of bored children on school field trips; visiting inthe fall is better. Adult $5, Senior/Teen 13-18/Military $4, Children 5-12 $2 (). edit Santa FeChildren's Museum, 1050 Old Pecos Trail (a mile or so south of downtown), +1 505 989-8359([email protected], fax: +1 505 989-7506), [24]. W-Sa 10AM-5PM, Su noon-5PM. Many participatory exhibits and various accessible critters both inside and out; the indoor areaholds several construction toy areas and a bubble-making area, while the outdoor area features agarden and greenhouse with plenty of kid's activities available. $8 (). editArchitecture[edit]

St. Francis CathedralThere are several photogenicchurches in town, most of them open for visits during daylight hours when no church services are inprogress (please be respectful and don't attempt flash photography): St. Francis Cathedral, 213Cathedral Place (downtown area), +1 505 982-5619, [25]. One of the "must-see" places in town, withan impressive interior and beautiful art both inside and out. A tip for the photographer: the mainfacade faces west, so photographing the exterior (including several striking sculptures such as theone at the top of this page) tends to be most rewarding, atypically for Santa Fe, in the middle of theday, particularly the afternoon. Free; donation. edit Loretto Chapel, 211 Old Santa Fe Trail, +1 505

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982-0092, [26]. Su 10:30AM-5PM, M-Sa 9AM-5PM (). Built in 1878 and modeled after the GothicSainte Chapelle in Paris. An intriguing legend - The Miraculous Staircase - is attached below andserves as the highlight on the church. The Loretto is also a popular romantic wedding venue. $3. editSan Miguel Mission, 401 Old Santa Fe Trail, +1 505 983-3974. Su 1PM-4:30PM, Summer M-Sa 9AM-4:30PM, Winter M-Sa 10AM-4PM. Thought to be the oldest surviving mission church in the UnitedStates, the San Miguel is a rather simple but lovely adobe structure. Behind the mission, along thenarrow alleyway, is a small structure whose owners claim it to be the "Oldest House in the U.S."built by Europeans; a claim which though inaccurate reflects the long history of the site. Admissionby donation. edit

The Miraculous Staircase

Santa Fe's origins as a venture of early Spanish colonists have made it the home of a number oflegends, myths and stories mixing indigenous and Catholic themes, one of the most famous being thelegend of the Miraculous Staircase. The choir loft at Loretto Chapel is reached by a windingstaircase with two complete revolutions, and no obvious means of support; it looks like it floats inthe air. Legend says that a mysterious carpenter built this staircase single-handed in the 1870s, thenvanished without a trace before he could be paid or even identified. Some say that this carpenterwas none other than St. Joseph, patron saint of carpenters, come to earth. When you visit LorettoChapel, take a good look at the staircase and decide for yourself whether it requires divineintervention to stay intact.

Santuario de Guadalupe, 100 Guadalupe (downtown area), +1 505 988-2027. M-F 9AM-4PM,Sa/Summer 10AM-4PM. A favorite musical venue, the Santuario is an excellent example of SpanishColonial architecture and contains a superb collection of religious artworks. Free. edit Scottish RiteTemple, 463 Paseo de Peralta (north of downtown but within walking distance of the Plaza), +1 505982-4414, [27]. A startling, bright pink Moorish-style building modeled after the Alhambra inGranada, Spain. edit The State Capitol Building, corner of Old Santa Fe Trail and Paseo de Peralta(south of downtown), +1 505 986-4589, [28]. Self-guided tours M-F 7AM-6PM, call for guided tours.One of the country's most unusual and striking state capitol buildings; usually open to visitors duringworking hours. It's known locally as "the Roundhouse," and even a casual look will tell you why.Free. edit An enormous number of Santa Fe structures are on the National Register of HistoricPlaces [29]. Rather than recapping the whole list here, visit the web site. A good way of sampling theHistoric Places is to start at the Plaza (itself one of the designated places) and work your way out. Atleast 40 places on the Register can be reached conveniently from here.Theaters[edit]

There are many movie theaters spread around the city, and lots of art houses that play some of themore off-beat and humorous movies.

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Zozobra meets his doom at the annual Santa FeFiestaFestivals[edit]

Santa Fe hosts a seemingly unending series of community fairs, festivals and celebrations, of whichthe most characteristic is the Fiesta de Santa Fe [30]. This grand city-wide festival is held over theweekend after Labor Day in mid-September, after most of the summer tourists have left (and hasbeen described as Santa Fe throwing a party for itself to celebrate the tourists leaving!). Thecelebration commemorates the reconquest of Santa Fe in 1692 by the Spanish after the PuebloRevolt of 1680. Fiesta opens with a procession bearing a statue of the Blessed Virgin known as LaConquistadora to the Cathedral of St. Francis. Revelry starts with the Thursday night burning ofZozobra, also known as "Old Man Gloom," a huge, animated figure whose demise at the hands of atorch-bearing dancer symbolizes the banishing of cares for the year. Prepare for BIG crowds - thisevent is not for the faint of heart and can be downright scary for small children! The crowning of aqueen (La Reina) of the Fiesta and her consort, representing the Spanish nobleman, Don Diego deVargas, who played a key role in the founding of the city, is a matter of great local import. Revelrycontinues through the weekend and features such events as the hilarious children's Pet Parade onSaturday morning and the Hysterical/Historical Parade on Sunday afternoon. A Fiesta Melodrama atthe Community Playhouse effectively and pointedly pokes fun at city figures and events of the yearpast. The Fiesta closes with a solemn, candle-lit walk to the Cross of the Martyrs.

A few of the other festivities during the year, arranged in (usual) chronological order through theyear, are:

ArtFeast, Edible Art Gallery Tour, [31], February 22-25, 2007 Santa Fe Community Days, mid-MaySanta Fe Plaza Arts and Crafts Festivals, mid-June and Labor Day weekend Rodeo de Santa Fe, lateJune-early July Santa Fe Wine Festival, [32], usually first weekend in July, located at Rancho de lasGolondrinas, taste and enjoy some of the finest wines in New Mexico in the beautiful outdoor settingof a living history museumSanta Fe International Folk Art Market, [33], early July, a huge gatheringof folk artists from around the world showing their work on the Milner Plaza at Museum HillSantaFe Jazz Festival, [34], mid- to late July Summer Spanish Market [35], late July in the Plaza Santa FeChamber Music Festival [36] with a series of internationally known musicians, July and AugustMountain Man Rendezvous, mid-August, Palace of the GovernorsSanta Fe Show-Objects of Art, ElMuseo Cultural, 555 Camino de la Familia, 87501 (Santa Fe Rail Yard, across tracks from FarmersMarket), 505.660.4701, [37]. Noon to 7 PM. With material ranging from contemporary to historic,antique to modern, the show offers paintings, sculpture, and fine art of all kinds. Youll find furniture,books, fashion, jewelry, textiles, and tribal, folk, American Indian, African, and Asian art. The new,the old, the unique, the unexpected 65 prestigious galleries and exhibitors will showcase animpressive variety of OBJECTS OF ART. $13 run of show. (Aug 10-13 with an Aug 9 Preview,)edit*

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Santa Fe Indian Market [38]. This annual mid-August event is the most significant Santa Fe festivalfor tourists and collectors. The entire downtown area is filled with vendors of American Indian artsand crafts, ranging from $10 tourist trinkets on up to breathtaking works of the highest quality. Itadvertises itself as the world's largest show for Native American artisans, and the description isprobably accurate; an artisan who wins one of the top prizes in the juried competitions here is"made" as a significant folk art figure. Lodging is tight in town on Indian Market weekend, so ifyou're attending, make plans early -- Indian Market weekend in 2008 is August 23-24.Thirsty EarMusic Festival [39], August-September, Eaves Movie RanchSanta Fe Film Festival in earlyDecember; their web site is usually updated in the fall to reflect the coming offerings.Santa FeIndependent Film Festival' in mid October features the best in independent and international filmand was named one of Moviemaker Magazines "Coolest Film Festivals". Santa Fe Wine and ChileFiesta in late September, pairs wines from vintners around the world with the spicy foods for whichSanta Fe is known. Winemakers' dinners, special tastings and the Grand Tasting on the Santa FeOpera grounds make for a vintage weekend! This event is a sell-out for Santa Fe, so lodging is at apremium - reserve early.Winter Spanish Market[40] , early DecemberLas Posadas, a pre-Christmascommemoration of Mary's and Joseph's search for lodging taking place outdoors on the Plaza. Thisevent takes place in mid December and is a truly unique experience. The audience "participates" inthe play by holding candles and following Mary and Joseph in their search for lodging. El Diablo (thedevil) appears on rooftops throughout the plaza and hurls insults at the crowd, which responds inkind. This is a wonderful family event.Farolito Walk, a Christmas Eve walk around the historic areasof downtown Santa Fe, throughout which have been set farolitos, small brown bags filled with sandand a votive candle, to light the way for the Christ Child.

In addition, many of the Native American pueblo communities nearby schedule dances and otherceremonies to celebrate specific feast days throughout the year that welcome tourists (along with afew that are for tribe members only).


Santa Fe is an important center for music and musical groups, the most illustrious of which is theSanta Fe Opera [41]. The opera house is on US 285 on the north side of town and is partially "openair," so that opera goers get attractive views of the Jemez Mountains near Los Alamos as anadditional backdrop to what's on stage. The Santa Fe Opera is known around the world for stagingAmerican and even world premieres of new works, the operas of Richard Strauss, and promisingnew artists on their way up (and, to be fair, one or two aging superstars each season who are ontheir way down, not up). Opera season is the summer, with opening night (tickets are almostimpossible to get) usually around July 1 and the last performances in mid-August. (Bring a lightjacket/wrap and an umbrella to the later performances; the open-air nature of the house can makeAugust performances nippy and drippy, although seats are protected from the rain.) Manyperformances sell out well in advance, so book early. (KHFM radio, frequency 95.5 MHz, airs a"ticket exchange" that may be helpful in finding tickets to sold-out performances, if you find yourselfin town on the spur of the moment during opera season; they currently stream their broadcast on-line at [42], so you can check the ticket exchange even before you arrive.) People-watching here canbe as much fun as the opera itself; you'll see folks in the most expensive formal wear sitting next toothers in jeans, which is typical of Santa Fe. Dressing up at least a little from jeans is a good idea,though. Pre-performance "tailgate dinners" in the parking lot, as though you were attending afootball game or such, are part of the tradition and color; you can bring your own, or see under"Eat/Other/Splurge" below.

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Other important musical/performing-arts venues in town are:

Armory for the Arts, 1050 Old Pecos Trail; mainly theater.GiG, 1808 Second St., +1 505 989-8442,[43], a spinoff (they describe themselves as a "stepchild") of the Jazz Festival; coffee-houseenvironment with jazz, folk music, etc.Greer Garson Theatre, 1600 St. Michael's Drive, +1 505 473-6511. On the campus of the College of Santa Fe [44]; visit the web site to see what's playing there.Comfortable, with good acoustics.James A. Little Theater, 1060 Cerrillos Road. On the campus of theNew Mexico School for the Deaf, remarkably enough.Lensic Performing Arts Center, 225 W. SanFrancisco Street, box-office phone +1 505 988-1234. A converted movie theater with a pleasantatmosphere. As with most downtown sites, parking can be a pain, but there is a parking garage ablock west that's usually OK in the evening.Paolo Soleri Theater, 1501 Cerrillos Road, +1 505 989-6300. An outdoor amphitheater at the Santa Fe Indian School, popular for events in spring, summerand fall.St. Francis Auditorium, at the New Mexico Museum of Art (see above).In addition, manychurches host concerts of various kinds, among them St. Francis Cathedral and the Santuario deGuadalupe downtown, and the remarkable Santa Maria de la Paz Catholic Community far out on thesouth side of town (11 College Avenue) -- extraordinary acoustics at the latter.

Some of the musical groups using these spaces are:

Aspen Santa Fe Ballet [45]. A professional ballet company that splits its time between Santa Fe andAspen, Colorado. Three or four performances a year, usually at the Lensic.Juan Siddi FlamencoTheatre Company, [46]. Santa Fe's premier flamenco troupe performing six nights a week Junethrough September.Maria Benitez Teatro Flamenco/Institute for Spanish Arts [47]. Internationallyrenowned Spanish/flamenco dance and music, they also offer classes (+1 505 955-8562 for classinformation).Moving People Dance [48] A contemporary dance company that throws the annualSanta Fe Dance Festival [49] each June. Musica Antigua de Albuquerque [50]. Many groups based inAlbuquerque do performances in Santa Fe as well; this one specializes in music of the Middle Ages,Renaissance and Baroque, performed with period instruments as well as voices.MusicOne: TheSanta Fe Concert Association [51]. Not a performing group but rather the body that brings in manyvisiting artists.Sangre de Cristo Chorale [52]. One of the best of the many "community-based" choralgroups drawing on the enormous pool of skilled singers in northern New Mexico. Two repertoiresper year (usually Christmas, with a well-regarded dinner concert, and spring), as well as specialevents throughout the year.Santa Fe Desert Chorale [53]. Fully professional choral music, withsummer and winter programs, including works specifically commissioned for the ensemble.Santa FePro Musica [54]. Chamber orchestra, multiple performances from September through April.Santa FeSymphony and Chorus [55]. Classical and contemporary works performed September through May,including interpretive lectures and occasional youth concerts.Santa Fe Women's Ensemble [56]. A12-voice choral group, performances Christmas and spring.Serenata of Santa Fe. Yet another choralgroup with a September-to-May schedule.

There are others; if you hear one you like, add it.

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Hike/bike/ride/etc.[edit] The Cross of the Martyrs

As one might expect from its location between mountain and desert, Santa Fe is rich in outdooractivities, particularly hiking, cycling, and horse riding. Most are slightly outside town itself and arecovered in the "Get out" section and pages cited there, but a few in-town possibilities:

The Cross of the Martyrs is a good short walk, located on a hill just northeast of Downtown. FromPaseo de Peralta, the paved walkway ascends to the top of the hill, where a cross honoring theSpanish martyrs of New Mexico has been placed. Unfortunately, getting to the entrance to the trailinvolves uncomfortably close proximity to car traffic, as one has to walk along a narrow butextraordinarily busy street on very narrow sidewalks, but the view of Santa Fe makes it all worth it.Old Fort Marcy Park and Prince Park Commemorative Walkway, at 300 Kearney Ave, is just aroundthe corner a short walk from the cross, and is an in-town (one really can't call it "urban") parksuitable for a short hike to begin getting your cardiovascular system adjusted to the 7000-footaltitude. Santa Fe River Park runs along the so-called Santa Fe River (it rarely has more than atrickle of water), with access convenient along the south side of the downtown area. You'll share thepath with myriad walkers, bikers, and some boarders and horse riders. The campus of St. John'sCollege, 1160 Camino Cruz Blanca, is the starting point for several hikes of lengths ranging from 2to 7 miles, the latter being the ascent of Atalaya Mountain, one of the foothills of the Sangre deCristos that rises just east of town. Park at the visitors' parking lot and choose your hike. The entireroute of the Santa Fe Southern Railway (see above under "See") can be hiked, biked, and ridden onhorseback. It is a nationally designated Rail with Trail, and plans are underway to develop its trailfacilities. There are trailheads on Rabbit Road (continuation of Old Pecos Trail on the south side of I-25) and on County Road 660 ("Nine Mile Road"). Needless to say, keep an eye out for trains.Geocaching has become popular in Santa Fe, as might be expected from the general atmosphere ofthe city. The web site [57] lists hundreds of caches in and near town, sufficient tokeep even the most ardent cacher busy for a while. One caution: Santa Fe's reputation as aplayground for the rich and famous has created a number of closed and gated neighborhoods, manyof them quite intolerant of trespassers and aggressively patrolled. If your route to a cache leads youto a closed gate, take it seriously, and either look outside the perimeter for your quarry, or seek adifferent cache. Horse riding is available at several stables on the west side of town, and at Bishops'Lodge. If you have your own horse, or contract with an outfitter, your choice of places to ride isenormous. Popular trail systems in the Santa Fe area include the Santa Fe National Forest, PecosWilderness, Caja del Rio, Cerrillos Hills Historical Park, and Pueblos (access requiring a permit). Alittle farther afield is Los Alamos, Valles Caldera National Preserve, and the Carson National Forest.Genoveva Chavez Community Center [58], 3221 Rodeo Road, 505-955-4000. Contains three

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swimming pools, an ice rink, a gymnasium, and a fitness center.

if you're cycling, thorn-resistant tires and tubes are almost mandatory owing to the ubiquitous"goat's head," a weed whose seeds seem custom-made to puncture bike tires. A well-regarded bikeshop is Rob and Charlie's, 1632 St. Michaels Drive, +1 505 471-9119. They have just abouteverything you'll need for riding in the area, including recommendations, but unfortunately, theydon't have rental bikes. For rentals, try Mellow Velo (formerly Sun Mountain Bicycles), 102 E. WaterSt., +1 505 982-8986, [59]; they also offer guided rides on some of the mountain-bike routes in themountains. For hiking, trail running and climbing goods and services, check out Sangre de CristoMountain Works, 328 S. Guadalupe St., +1 505 984-8221, [60].

Golf, etc.[edit]

Golf and other sports are less accessible in Santa Fe than in some other cities, as many of the golfcourses are either private and reserved for residents of adjoining gated communities, or out of townat one of the nearby pueblos and in Los Alamos. Santa Fe Country Club, Country Club Road (offAirport Road), +1 505 471-0601, [61], is a "semi-private" course that welcomes the public andincludes tennis courts; call for tee times. Marty Sanchez Links de Santa Fe, 205 Caja del Rio Road,+1 505 955-4400, [62], is the "municipal" course in town -- well, almost in town, as it's off the SantaFe Relief Route a good eight miles from the Plaza. Golf in Santa Fe is "challenging;" the altitude maytire you (although the thin air may also help the ball fly farther and straighter), and weather caninterfere, with strong winds in the spring and afternoon thunderstorms in the summer. Still, SantaFe is a great place to get outside, and that includes golf and other sporting activities.

Mill Fine Art (Mill Fine Art), 530 Canyon Road (East section of Canyon Road), 505-982-9212, [63].10am-5pm. One of the best art galleries in Santa Fe, Mill Fine Art is located on historic CanyonRoad. Exhibiting primarily contemporary and minimalist artwork. editFolk art[edit]

Santa Fe is a designated UNESCO Creative City [64], and is one the best places in the world to shopspecifically for Native American Indian arts and crafts. How to proceed depends on what your goalsare and how much you want to spend. If your goal is to obtain mementos of no great intrinsic value,check out the Native American vendors on the "Portal" (accent on second syllable) in front of thePalace of the Governors; the jewelry and pottery is inexpensive (of course, you get what you pay for)and its authenticity is guaranteed. Pickings may be a bit thin on Sundays, and the vendors pick upand go home after 5:30. A word of warning: do not patronize the similar vendors on sidewalks outaround town unless you know they're OK. If they're not on the Portal, there's a reason, and onecommon reason is that they're passing off non-Indian junk as authentic. Some authentic artisans maybe off the Portal, but caveat emptor.

Vendors on the Portal at the Palace of the Governors

For higher-quality (and -priced) Indian art that you'll feel good about when you get it home, galleries

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cluster around the Plaza. Some reputable ones (there are more) are:

Allan Houser Gallery, 125 Lincoln Ave. Suite 112, +1 505 982-4705, [65],[66]. M-Sa 10AM-5PM.Showcases sculptures, drawings, and paintings by Allan Houser. A sculpture garden south of SantaFe with more work by Houser is open for tours.Andrea Fisher Fine Pottery, 100 W. San Francisco,+1 505 986-1234, [email protected], [67]. Summer M-Sa 10AM-6PM, Su 12PM-6PM;Winter M-Sa 10AM-5PM, Su Noon-5PM. Museum quality Native American pottery.Blue Rain Gallery,130 Lincoln Avenue, Suite D, +1 505 954-9902, [68]. M-Sa 10AM-6PM, closed Sun. Specializing incontemporary Native American art, including pottery, paintings, glass sculpture, jewelry and mixedmedia. editLyn A Fox Fine Pueblo Pottery at Traders Collection, 219 Galisteo St (between EastAlameda and Water St.), +1 505-992-0441, [69]. 10AM - 5PM. Specializing in fine historic Pueblopottery from the eight northern pueblos, including Native American clay pots, dough bowls, vases,olla pots, and storyteller pottery. edit Steve Elmore Indian Art, 839 Paseo de Peralta, suite M(between Palace & Alameda), +1 505 995-9677, [70]. 10AM-5PM daily. Specializing in NativeAmerican antiques with an emphasis on historic Pueblo pottery, Navajo weavings, kachinas, and oldpawn jewelry. editEstrella Del Norte Vineyard & Tasting Room, 106 N Shining Sun (15 miles northof Santa Fe on NM 503, The High Road To Taos), +1 505 455-2826, [71]. 10AM-6PM daily; 12PM-6PM *winter hours close at 5PM. Santa Fe's #1 vineyard/winery destination specializing in award-winning New Mexico wines and local folk art in gift shop. Authentic vineyard estate with rustic winetasting room. Fabulous Holy Mol Red Wine infused with chocolate and red chile! Very professionaland friendly staff. Unique and memorable! edit

There are other good ones as well; if you find one that you think offers particularly good value fordollar, please expand this list. You can spend as little as $100 for a small piece, or spend moremoney than you have for something that's literally one-of-a-kind.

Fine art[edit]

If you have any interest at all in fine art, make sure you walk down Canyon Road (an easy stroll fromdowntown), which is full of unique, quirky and just plain fun art galleries. Other galleries are westand south of the Plaza in the downtown area itself. A small sampling to give you a sense of what'sthere (note that opening hours at these can be somewhat erratic and are not always posted):

Only in Santa Fe...

Another chapter was added to the weird, wonderful lore of the "City Different" in August 2007, whenone of the many jewelry and art shops in the downtown area suffered a midnight break-in by -- nokidding -- a mountain lion. You won't have to compete for goods with this aesthetically inclinedbeast, however, as it was tranquilized by Fish and Game officers, removed, and released in the wildsof northern New Mexico.

Axle Contemporary, Variable Locations and Hours: Check website for daily updates, +1 505 670-5854, [72]. A mobile gallery of contemporary art, featuring works on paper and installation in abeautiful custom-retrofitted 1970 aluminum stepvan. Art by both established and emerging NewMexico-based artists.Chuck Jones Gallery, 135 W. Palace Ave., +1 505 983-5999, [73]. Amid thegalleries featuring the scenic and cultural beauty of the Southwest and Native Americana, you canfind this one featuring the "beauty" of ... Daffy Duck, Wile E. Coyote and the Roadrunner!? Thisgallery memorializes the great cartoon artist and his successors in animation art, with manyoriginals. Not what you might think of as typical of the Santa Fe art scene, but highly entertaining.Hours apparently "flexible."Gabriel Gallery, 6 Banana Lane (off US 285 north of town), +1 505 455-9230. Paintings, sculpture, jewelry; across the parking lot from the excellent Gabriel's restaurant

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(see below), and combines well with a meal there.Gerald Peters Gallery, 1011 Paseo de Peralta, +1505 954-5700, [74]. Open M-Sa 10AM-5PM. One of Santa Fe's "high-end" galleries, with works bysome famous artists (Hurd, Remington, Miro, etc.), bearing six-digit price tags in some cases. Ifyou're looking for inexpensive "souvenir" art, look elsewhere, but the serious art collector shoulddefinitely check this one out.Glenn Green Galleries, 136 Tesuque Village Road (in Tesuque, 5 milesnorth of the Plaza), +1 505 820-0008, [75]. Open M-Sa 10AM-5PM; Sunday by appointment.Established in 1966, 5 acre sculpture garden and gallery. Contemporary sculpture, paintings, printsand wall art by artists such as Allan Houser (whom the gallery represented from 1974-1994), KhangPham-New, Eduardo Oropeza, Melanie Yazzie, etc.Jane Sauer Gallery, 652 Canyon Road, +1 505995-8513, [76]. M-Sa 10:00AM-5:30PM; Sun Noon-5:30PM; closed on Sun in winter. One of the top"material-based" galleries in the country showing the work of over 70 internationally-acclaimedartists using fiber, glass, clay, and sculptural materials to create their art.Klebau PhotographyGallery, 220 E. Santa Fe Ave., +1 505 954-4777, [77]. The proprietor of this photography-orientedfranchise is also deeply involved with Santa Fe's classical-music scene, and may be able to give youtips on what's playing if he's there (buying something doesn't hurt, of course). Manitou Galleries,123 W. Palace Ave., +1 505 986-0440 or +1 800 283-0440, [78]. M-Sa 9:30AM-5:30PM, Su 11AM-5PM -- one of the relatively few Santa Fe galleries open 7 days a week. Mid-range ($100 to $20,000)work, mainly with a Southwestern theme; nice bronzes. Mark White Fine Art, 414 Canyon Rd., +1505 982-2073, [79]. Open 7 days a week 10AM-5PM. Meditative wind sculptures. Inside the Galleryyou can view radiant and unique paintings on metal.Nedra Matteucci Fine Art, 555 Canyon Road, +1505 983-2731, [80]. Traditional paintings and sculpture by contemporary European and Americanartists. Nedra Matteucci Galleries, 1075 Paseo de Peralta, +1 505 982-4631, [81]. M-Sa8:30AM5PM. Another gallery by the well-known Santa Fe entrepreneur, this one with an emphasison 19th- and 20th-century work, including a number of works from the art colony at Taos.ShidoniArts, Bishops Lodge Road (at the outlying village of Tesuque), +1 505 988-8001, [82]. M-Sa 9AM-5PM. 8 acres of sculpture garden display the diverse and eclectic -- some would say peculiar -- workof the locally-celebrated Shidoni Foundry, along with furniture, ceramics, photography,etc.Waxlander Gallery and Sculpture Garden, 622 Canyon Road, +1 505 984-2202, [83]. M-Su 9:30-5:30PM. Contemporary artists led by Phyllis Kapp.William R. Talbot Fine Art, 129 W. San FranciscoSt. (upstairs), +1 505 982-1559, [84]. Historic maps, regionalist prints and paintings.Winterowd FineArt, 701 Canyon Road, +1 505 992-8878, [85]. M-Sa 10AM-5PM, Su 12PM-4PM. A reasonable (ifcomparatively conservative) example of the many Canyon Road galleries; friendly and helpfulservice.

This listing barely scratches the surface of the art scene in Santa Fe; the community phone book listsover six pages of galleries. There are some tourist traps among them, but far more good stuff thantourist junk.

Other goods[edit] In downtown Santa Fe there are quite a few specialty stores for toys, book stores,clothes and a variety of other stores with handmade goods such as purses and jewelry. On the southside of the city there is an outlet mall ([86]) at the intersection of I-25 and Cerrillos Road and a largegathering of newer, big-box stores like Border's, Best Buy, and Target on Zafarano Road nearCerrillos and Rodeo Roads, across the street from the enclosed Santa Fe Place [87] mall. A second(and slightly smaller) enclosed mall, the De Vargas Center [88], is located at Paseo de Peralta andGuadalupe, just north of the downtown area. Within the downtown area proper is the SanbuscoCenter [89], a partially-enclosed mall with mostly upscale shops, anchored by a Border's and a CostPlus World Market.A Santa Fe institution is the Tesuque Pueblo Flea Market just north of the SantaFe Opera along highway 285. It's open on weekends except during the winter, and offers cut-rateshopping for just about anything you can get elsewhere in town. Visit to look for randommemorabilia (although you may wonder why you bought them when you get home!) and also forsome entertaining people-watching.

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Santa Fe, and the rest of New Mexico, is known for its huge and spicy plates full of Southwesternfood. Restaurants in Santa Fe run from expensive haute Southwestern to down-home fast-food styleplates, where you will be asked "red or green" (chile). You can try a mix of both red and green chilepeppers by asking for your dish "Christmas". However, Santa Fe also has a number of excellentrestaurants offering other cuisines -- possibly too many of them, in fact, as the highly competitivemarketplace forces even some very good ones out of business before their time. It is almostimpossible to overstate the dining possibilities here; they far outstrip those in most American citiesten times Santa Fe's size. As with several other New Mexico towns, restaurants in this descriptionare broken into the sub-categories "New Mexican" (which, note, is not the same as "Mexican" by anymeans) and "Other." Meals (exclusive of drinks and tips) will usually cost $10/person or less at the"Budget" places, $10 to $25 at the "Mid-range" ones, and more -- sometimes much more -- at the"Splurges." Note that many Santa Fe restaurants are somewhat "casual" as regards business hours;if a place doesn't have hours listed below, inquire locally as to when it's open, as the hours maychange erratically.

Santa Fe Farmers Market, 1607 Paseo de Peralta (Paseo de Peralta at Guadalupe), +1 505 983-4098, [90]. The Santa Fe Farmers Market represents over 100 active vendors and features hundredsof different agricultural products. To further meet Santa Fe's demand for fresh, local produce, theMarket began operating year-round in 2002, and with more and more farmers using extendedgrowing techniques, the "off season" becomes more successful every year. editNew Mexican[edit]

Blue corn enchiladas at The Shed

There are so many good New Mexican restaurants in town that a description here can barely scratchthe surface. A note on red and green chile: half of the writers on New Mexican food claim that greenchile is hotter than red, while half claim it's the other way around. In reality, the best authority onthe spiciness of the chile at the particular restaurant you eat at is the restaurant itself, so if you'reconcerned about the chile being too hot, simply ask; you'll get a straight answer far more often thannot. One thing that's definitely true, however, is that green tends to be fleshier than red, and adds abit more substance to the dish, independent of the heat level.

Budget[edit] Five and Dime, 58 E San Francisco St, +1 505 992-1800. The former Woolworths onthe Plaza was said to be the birthplace of the "Frito Pie"; it has since been replaced by the Five andDime. The original chef is purported to still serve them there. The Frito Pie consists of a Fritos cornchips topped by meaty red chile and cheddar cheese, with onions and jalapenos as a garnish, servedin the original Frito bag. edit The Shed, 113 E Palace Ave, +1 505 982-9030, [91]. M-Sa 11AM-2:30PM and 5:30PM-9PM. The quintessential New Mexican lunch spot. In a little plaza off EastPalace Avenue in the heart of the downtown area, recessed off the street and hard to find, but worththe effort to poke around the several side plazas until you locate it. They operate a sister restaurantLa Choza, 905 Alarid St, +1 505 982-0909. It is open evenings and is on an obscure side street closeto the main drag of St. Francis Drive, well outside the downtown area. Both serve "traditional" New

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Mexican food (enchiladas, stuffed sopaipillas, etc.) in a rustic setting. Reservations arerecommended. Lunch entrees from $7 or so at both, dinners from $9. edit edit Felipe's Tacos, 1711-A Llano St, +1 505 473-9397. M-Sa 8AM-9PM, Su 9AM-6PM. Huge burritos, tacos and very, veryauthentic Mexican food for as little as two dollars. It's located only a few blocks from Santa Fe High,so after school can be a little crowded, but it's worth the wait. edit El Merendero (Posa's), 1514Rodeo Rd, +1 505 820-7672, [92]. M-Sa 7AM-8PM, Su 8AM-3PM. 3538 Zafarano Dr, +1 505 473-3454, [93]. M-Sa 7AM-9PM, Su 8AM-8PM. This is primarily a catering/retail-sales outfit (deliverythroughout town, sometimes delivering very large orders, as well as by parcel) of long standing andgood reputation, but has recently opened two fast-food-style outlets for their wares. It's definitelynot fine dining, but a reasonable representative of basic New Mexican fare for those in a hurry.Entrees $5-10. Plaza Cafe, 54 Lincoln Ave, +1 505 982-1664, [94]. 7AM-9PM daily. An old standby astone's throw from the vendors on the Portal. Open for all meals, but particularly recommended forlunch, although it's crowded. edit Tecolote Caf, 1203 Cerrillos Rd, +1 505 988-1362. Tu-Su 7AM-2PM. Breakfast and lunch only. Great New Mexican and traditional American breakfast fare. Notoast...but you won't miss it when the "bread" basket arrives full of green chile and other muffins.edit Tia Sophia's, 210 W San Francisco St, +1 505 983-9880. Breakfast and lunch 7 days; muchloved by locals for breakfast. edit Tortilla Flats, 3139 Cerrillos Rd, +1 505 471-8685, [95]. Su-Th7AM-9AM, F-Sa 7AM-10PM. A well known New Mexican establishment with typical Santa Fe fare.Frequented by many locals, another great stopping point for a quick meal or a casual dinner. Lessthan $10. editMid-range[edit] Tomasita's, 500 S Guadalupe St (just south of downtown in an oldrailroad station), +1 505 983-5721. M-Sa 11AM-10PM. Considered by many to serve the definitive"traditional" New Mexican food. Expect to wait, as it's enormously popular. Entrees around $9-11,but splurge a little and get the sangria too. edit Blue Corn Cafe, 133 Water St (downtown), +1 505984-1800. 4056 Cerrillos Rd, +1 505 438-1800, [96]. 11AM-10PM daily. A curious combination ofNew Mexican cuisine and a microbrewery. Maria's New Mexican Kitchen, 555 W Cordova Rd, +1505 983-7929, [97]. M-F 11AM-10PM, Sa-Su noon-10PM. Margaritas are a specialty here, but thetraditional New Mexican cuisine is also good, if a bit heavier than at Tomasita's. Parking, thoughample, is a pain to get to; approach from the east, on Camino de los Marquez rather than Cordova.edit Tabla de Los Santos, 210 Don Gaspar Ave (inside the Hotel St. Francis), +1 505 992-6354, [98].M 7:30AM-11AM, Tu-Th 7:30AM-2PM and 5PM-9PM, F-Sa 7:30AM-2PM and 5PM-10PM, Su 7:30AM-1:30PM and 5PM-9PM. New Mexican cuisine with great tasting pork chops and chile rellenos. Greatviews of the Santa Fe Plaza. edit Ore House on the Plaza, 50 Lincoln Ave, +1 505 983-8687, [99]. M-F 11:30AM-2:30PM and 5:30PM-close, Su noon-2:30PM and 5:30PM-close. Combines Northern NewMexico cuisine and steakhouse offerings, with balcony dining on the second floor. Reservationsstrongly recommended, as it's crowded during tourist season. The cantina (bar) is a popularwatering hole as well. editSplurge[edit] La Casa Sena, 125 E Palace Ave, +1 505 988-9232, [100].M-Sa 11:30AM-3PM and 5:30PM-10PM, Su 11AM-3PM and 5:30PM-10PM. An example of"Southwestern" cuisine -- the merging of traditional New Mexican preparation and presentation withmore modern, creative ingredients (sometimes a little too creative). Reservations recommended. editCoyote Cafe, 132 W Water St, +1 505 983-1615, [101]. 11:30AM-close daily. Another highly-regarded "Southwestern" dining experience, although there has been a recent tendency for chefMark Miller, (however Mark Miller sold the Restaurant to a group of employees); to use hisrestaurant to engage in puffery on behalf of his big-city franchises elsewhere. It's still an excellentrestaurant, if an expensive one -- $50 per person for dinner, including wine/dessert and tip, is notunusual. Reservations recommended. edit Gabriel's, on State Road 285 (exit 176) north of town (pastthe opera) near the outlying village of Pojoaque, +1 505 455-7000, [102]. Su-Th 11:30AM-9PM, F-Sa11:30AM-10PM. As much "Old" Mexican as New Mexican. The guacamole appetizer is fantastic, asare the fajitas. Dinner with guacamole and sangria will cost $25 or so. The art gallery across theparking lot is worth a look too, when you're done with your meal. edit Luminaria, 211 Old Santa FeTrail, +1 505 984-7915, [103]. 7AM-2PM and 5PM-10PM daily. In the Inn at Loretto. Enjoy views ofthe Loretto Chapel and Old Santa Fe trail while dining. editOther[edit]

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Santa Fe has plenty of standard chain restaurants (Olive Garden, Outback, Red Lobster, etc.), butwhy bother? There are enough excellent "local" ones that you can save your trips to these moreubiquitous eateries for cities less well-endowed from a culinary point of view. All restaurants beloware uniquely Santa Fean in their character and cuisine.

Budget[edit]Bobcat Bite, 420 Old Las Vegas Highway, +1 505 983-5319, [104]. W-Sa 11AM-8PM. Anutterly unpretentious burger joint on the way into town from the east, far from the downtown area.Nothing fancy here, just huge and tasty burgers, etc., in a setting that evokes a 1950s small-towndiner. No credit cards accepted.Chopstixs, 238 N Guadalupe St, +1 505 820-2126. A fast-food, take-out or dine-in Chinese restaurant. Built into an old gas station, it looks like the kind of place that youshould stay a mile away from, and that's what makes it so good. Be careful during the school year atlunch time, as this is a popular high-school lunch spot.The Pantry Restaurant, 1820 Cerrillos Rd(Corner of Cerrillos & 5th), +1 505 986-0022, [105]. M-Sa 6:30AM-9PM, Su 7AM-9PM. Deliciousfood served in a diner-type setting. The waitstaff are super friendly, and the portions arehumongous. The customers fill the small front quickly in the mornings, but seats are often availableat the bar (which serves delicious milkshakes, even before noon). $5-$10. editPyramid Cafe, 505 W.Cordova Rd., +1 505 989-1378. In a strip mall on Cordova Road south of downtown. Daily 11AM-9PM. Good Greek/Mediterranean lunches. Nothing fancy, just good, casual food. Don't bother withreservations, but call to check on hours. Lunches from $5 or so; occasional belly-dancingentertainment. Now also open in Los Alamos if your travels take you in that direction.Santa FeBaking Company, 504 W. Cordova Rd., +1 505 988-4292, [106]. M-Sa 6AM-8PM, Su 6AM-6PM.Across Cordova Road from Pyramid and offers tolerable sandwiches, soups, etc., for lunch, but don'tgo just for the lunch (or breakfast); grab a dessert while you're there, these being what it's knownfor. Can be very busy at lunchtime on weekdays, with chaos on all quarters. Call-in orders welcome.Santa Fe Steamer, 3242 Cerrillos Rd., +1 505 438-3862. Tu-Sa 11AM-9PM. Seafood, breezy andinformal yet with attentive service. The fare is quite good considering that the nearest ocean isabout 500 miles away; some creativity. Portions are not large, but in a weight-conscious age, they'relarge enough.Tune-Up Cafe, 1115 Hickox, +1 505 983-7060, [107]. M-F 7AM-10PM, Sa-Su 8AM-10PM. Occupies the space formerly "Dave's Not Here." Local hangout featuring the owners'Guatemalan cuisine with a New Mexican flavor. Open for breakfast, lunch and dinner. The location,near the main St. Francis Drive artery, is more convenient for the through traveler than todowntown.Upper Crust Pizza, 329 Old Santa Fe Trail, +1 505 982-0000, [108]. Winter daily 11AM-10PM, summer daily 11AM-11PM. Widely considered to serve the best (American-style) pizza intown. Free delivery, but if practical, consider dining in instead; Old Santa Fe Trail is one of the maintourist drags, and you get a chance to combine pizza munching with people watching.Whole HogCafe, 318 S. Guadalupe, +1 505 474-3375, [109]. Daily 11AM-9PM. A barbecue chain centered inArkansas and Louisiana, but with two New Mexico outlets (the other is in Albuquerque); fast-foo--meets-steakhouse format, but the BBQ is high-quality by any standards. Try the "Volcano" BBQsauce (you'll have to ask for it at the counter) and see if it's hotter than the New Mexican cuisineelsewhere in town. If it blows you away, sauce #3 also has some kick and is tasty. Lunches (handy asit's in the pandemonious Cerrillos Road shopping area) from $5.05.Mid-range[edit] Cowgirl BBQ,319 S. Guadalupe, +1 505 982-2565, [110]. M-F 11AM-Mid, Sa 10AM-Mid, Su 10AM-11PM. Drinksserved until 1:30AM, Midnight on Sundays. Santa Fe mainstay where tourists and locals alike flockfor some semblance of nightlife in Santa Fe. Decent food, 4 red pool tables ($12/hour, 7'), decentprices, and live music every night, except Mondays- Karaoke. The BBQ ain't bad, either. IndiaPalace, 227 Don Gaspar Ave., +1 505 986-5859, and India House, 2501 Cerrillos Road, +1 505 471-2304; [111]. Daily 11:30AM-2:30PM, 5PM-10PM. Surprisingly excellent Indian cuisine, bothoperated by the same family, with essentially identical menus. India Palace is more "atmospheric,"India House more convenient (better parking), and the sag paneer at both is to die for. India Housemay have entertainment for some dinners. Hours at both sites: 11:30AM-2:30PM and 5PM-10PM,open 7 days. Figure $15-20 a head, and worth every penny.Mariscos La Playa Restaurant, in two

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locations: 537 W. Cordova Rd., +1 505 982-2790, and 2875 Cerrillos Road, +1 505 473-4594. Daily11AM-9PM. An example of the difference between "Mexican" and "New Mexican" cuisine; theserestaurants definitely are the former, with an emphasis on seafood prepared as in Old Mexico. (Youdefinitely won't find the Pulpo -- octopus -- dishes on the menu at their New Mexican counterparts!)Nothing special as regards ambience/presentation, but good, authentic food. Mu Du Noodles, 1494Cerrillos Road, +1 505 983-1411, [112]. Dinner Tu-Sa from 5:30PM. Features noodle/pasta dishesfrom around the world, but most of the dishes are from China or Southeast Asia. Parking can be achallenge. Ambitious cuisine for New Mexico, although perhaps equally ambitiously pricedPasqual's,121 Don Gaspar, +1 505 983-9340, [113]. Breakfast and lunch daily 8AM-3PM; dinner daily from5:30PM. An old standby in the downtown area. As with many Santa Fe restaurants, the menu blendsNew Mexican cuisine with more traditional American fare. Reservations recommended for dinner,which approaches "Splurge" territory, and recommended particularly for breakfast, when it's farbetter value for dollar than the restaurants at the several nearby hotels. Pink Adobe, 406 Old SantaFe Trail, +1 505 983-7712, [114]. Daily 11:30AM-9PM. A long-time Santa Fe standard, near thedowntown area. A mix of continental and New Mexican cuisine that borders on "Splurge" territory.Pranzo Italian Grill, 540 Montezuma Ave. (in the Sanbusco Center), +1 505 984-2645, [115]. Su12PM-10PM, M-Sa 11:30AM-3PM and 5PM-11PM. May be the best Italian restaurant in town.Reservations advisable. Expect it to be loud. Wok, 2860 Cerrillos Road, +1 505 424-8126. M-Th11AM-9PM, F-Sa 11AM-9:30PM, closed Sundays. Chinese food is a weakness (at least relativelyspeaking) in Santa Fe, but this unpretentious place has some supporters.Splurge[edit]315, 315 OldSanta Fe Trail, +1 505 986-9190, [116]. Lunch F 11:30AM-2PM; dinner Su-Th 5:30-9PM, F-Sa 5:30-9:30PM. A restaurant whose name is also its street number. Reservations advised.French/Continental cuisine in a sidewalk-bistro-like setting. Good wine list, and save room for thecreme brulee dessert. You can easily drop $50 a person here and feel good about it.Angel FoodCatering, 100 N. Guadalupe #103, +1 505 983-2433, [117]. Not a restaurant, but rather a cateringservice that specializes in the very popular "tailgate dinners" for the Santa Fe Opera (see above).Phone in your order (reservations are required at least 24 hours in advance), then pick it up at thekiosk on the Santa Fe Opera grounds. Menu is American/Continental with Southwestern influence.Expect to pay about $35-40 per person; wine is not included.The Compound, 653 Canyon Rd., +1505 982-4353, [118]. Lunch M-F Noon-2; dinner daily beginning at 6PM. Located on Canyon Roadnear the art galleries. Although the Compound once enforced a dress code of jacket and tie, newchef/owner Mark Kiffin eliminated any formal dress requirement. Southwestern cuisine. Entreesfrom $25-40; reservations strongly advised.Geronimo, 724 Canyon Road, +1 505 982-1500, [119].Daily 5:30PM-9:30PM. Another fine restaurant amid the galleries. The menu tends towardContinental but is entertainingly diverse and changes frequently. Dinner reservations arerecommended and can be placed via the (unnecessarily ostentatious) web site. $40 per person willget you an excellent dinner.El Mesn, 213 Washington Ave., +1 505 983-6756, [120]. Tu-Sa 5PM-11PM. Spanish cuisine, well prepared and attentively served; the paella is excellent. Diners used tosangria New Mexico-style may find this restaurant's version a bit dry. Live entertainment mostevenings. Expect to pay $40 per person or more.Las Fuentes at Bishop's Lodge Resort, Bishop'sLodge Road, +1 505 819-4035 (reservations), [121]. Daily 7AM-9:30PM. At the pricey Bishop'sLodge Resort (see under "Sleep"/"Splurge"), north of downtown on the way to the village of Tesuque.One of the few "Splurge" restaurants that offers three meals a day, including a Sunday brunch.Eclectic cuisine, basically American.Osteria d`Assisi, 58 S. Federal Place (three blocks north of thePlaza), +1 505 986-5858, [122]. Lunch M-Sa 11:00AM-3:00PM, dinner nightly from 5PM. If Pranzo(above) isn't the best Italian restaurant in town, this one may be. Prices range from about $10-12 fora simple Neapolitan-style pizza to $70 or more for a grand 5-course dinner with wine (come hungryand expect to leave full), or anything in between. Ristra, 548 Agua Fria St., +1 505 982-8608, [123].Dinner nightly from 5:30PM. Despite its name, the menu is primarily Continental with Frenchtendencies, although there are New Mexican overtones. Service is attentive to the point of beingalmost intrusive, but not quite; on parle franais, and probably other major languages as well, as it's

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popular with opera goers and the manager and waitstaff have international backgrounds. Expect tospend around $70 per person.Santacafe, 231 Washington Ave., +1 505 984-1788, [124]. Lunch daily11:30AM-2PM, dinner daily from 5:30PM; brunch Su 11AM-2:30PM. One of Santa Fe's big-namerestaurants, and you probably pay a little extra for the celebrity, but the American/Continental fareis creative and well presented, with attentive service. Expect to spend around $50 per person.TheOld House Restaurant, 309 W. San Francisco, +1 505 995-4530, [125]. Dinner nightly from 5:30PM.AAA Four Diamond restaurant that Zagat honored as New Mexicos best. Contemporary globalcuisine featuring seasonal and regional ingredients, with Southwestern and Asian influences. Thewine selection earned Wine Spectators Award of Excellence. Expect to spend around $50 perperson.Tulips, 222 W. Guadalupe, +1 505 989-7340 (reservations). Tu-Sa 6PM-10PM. Santa Fe is fullof unpretentious, little-advertised, yet good hole-in-the-wall restaurants that nobody has heard of,and this one is better than most. American-meets-Continental cuisine; the elk tenderloin ismarvelous. Portions can be a bit small, but in an overweight age, that's not such a bad thing. Quieterthan some of its competitors, which can be a relief. Expect to spend upward of $100 for dinner fortwo with wine and dessert.

Two of the ubiquitous alcoholic beverages in Santa Fe are the familiar margarita and the possibly-less-familiar sangria, a wine-based concoction incorporating fruit, more commonly associated withSpain and Central America. Most of the better New Mexican restaurants in town have their ownhouse sangria; it goes well with New Mexican cuisine, and is claimed by some to be a useful antidoteif the spicy food gets the better of you. It's considered much more of a day-to-day beverage herethan in many other places. Visitors should note that the high altitude may increase sensitivity toalcohol.

Much of the beer consumed in the community is imported from Mexico, and there are also a fewmicrobreweries. If you're sticking with non-alcoholic beverages, a tip: Many locals advise againsthaving soft drinks with New Mexican food, instead preferring iced tea. This preference is based onthe belief that carbonation in drinks (including beer) tends to accentuate the spiciness of the chilepeppers and cause the spicy component to hang around in the throat, while iced tea mutes it. Do theexperiment, or at least have your designated driver do it.

Fusion (formerly Swig), 135 W Palace Ave, +1 505 955-0400. Most Santa Fe night spots have moreof a coffeehouse vibe than a dance-till-you-drop atmosphere, but dancing is available here, withoccasional tango lessons. "Touristy" rather than "popular with the locals," as one might expect fromits location near the Plaza; LGBT-oriented according to some, but not all, visitors. edit SecretoLounge, 210 Don Gaspar Ave, +1 505 983-5700, [126]. One of the best places for people-watching inall of Santa Fe. The crowd tends to be more sedate here than at some other places. Two great guysto look for here. Daniel and Chris, both award winning mixologists. edit Inn on the Alameda, 303 EAlameda St, +1 505 984-2121, [127]. Included in its rates is an afternoon wine and cheese reception,and with its location at the base of Canyon Road, it offers an easy way to relax after a day of gallery-hopping. edit Second Street Brewery, 1814 2nd St, +1 505 982-3030, [128]. Su noon-10PM, M-Sa11AM-11PM for food, later (closing time unspecified) for the bar. Brewpub, with live music mostevenings Thursday-Sunday and art exhibits (this is Santa Fe, after all) at other times. Note thatthey've been fined in the past by the state of New Mexico for permitting consumption of alcohol offgrounds, so they may be sticklers for keeping your drink on-site. Second location: Second StreetBrewpub at the Railyard. 1607 Paseo de Peralta #10. edit Changes in New Mexico laws during the1990s led to the development of casinos at a number of nearby American Indian pueblos. The closestto Santa Fe are along US 285 on the way to Pojoaque. Big-name acts occasionally appear and livenup the night life, although you're as likely to catch a falling star on his/her way down-and-out as acurrent, lively act. The two listed here may run shuttle services connecting to the major in-townhotels; inquire locally as to availability. Camel Rock Casino, US 84/285 (10 miles north of town), +1

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800 462-2635, [129]. edit Cities of Gold, US 84/285 (15 miles north of town in Pojoaque), +1 505455-3313, [130]. edit Several of the local-style bars can be found on Cerrillos Road and St. MichaelsDrive, if you'd prefer to avoid the touristy places. Warning: some of these can get rowdy, and DUI isa problem in the area as well.

Most Santa Fe hotels, motels and B&Bs are in one of two areas: downtown (near the Palace of theGovernors and Plaza) or on Cerrillos Road, the commercial main drag. The distance of the CerrillosRoad hotels from the downtown attractions isn't significant from a purely physical point of view; themost distant ones (near Villa Linda Mall) are still within a couple miles of the downtown area, whichcan be reached quickly by car or shuttle bus. However, the atmospheric distance is enormous.Downtown has the fabled Santa Fe ambience of a sleepy old Western village frozen in time andtransported to the 21st century (with, of course, a few modern amenities and nuisances added, likecars), while Cerrillos Road has the "ambience" of a shopping district in a suburb of a major city. Incompensation, hotels on Cerrillos Road tend to be less expensive on an amenity-for-amenity basis.When deciding where to stay in Santa Fe, give particular thought to the balance of ambience andeconomy that fits your needs.

"Budget" lodging (if any) will start at less than $75 a night, "Mid-range" from $75 to $150, and"Splurge" greater than $150, with some of the luxury suites, etc., ranging far upward. A warning onthe "Budget" and "Mid-range" classifications: Santa Fe hotels and motels are prone to verysubstantial seasonal variations in availability and price. A hotel that may look like "Mid-range"during off season (spring, fall exclusive of the Albuquerque International Balloon Fiesta week,usually in early October) may be "Splurge" material during ski season and the summer, particularlyaround significant events such as the Santa Fe Indian Market, Fiesta, opening weekend of the SantaFe Opera, etc. Of course, the converse is true as well, meaning you can stay at a "Splurge" hotel inthe off-season months of November through February at a really low price. Check carefully on rateswhen booking; most of the more important hotels/motels have informative web pages, and betterhotels should give you the best price themselves, instead of letting discounters underprice them.

Residence Inn Santa Fe, 1698 Galisteo Street, Santa Fe, NM 87505, [131]. The Residence Inn SantaFe offers all-suite accommodations, a convenient location near The Plaza and art galleries of CanyonRoad and amenities to remind you of home. editInn on the Paseo, 630 Paseo de Peralta, Santa Fe,NM 87501, 505-984-8200, [132]. checkin: 4pm; checkout: 11am. Inn on the Paseo offers refinedhospitality in a relaxed setting. A daily gourmet breakfast is served, luxury linens, free parking &wifi. Walking distance to the Plaza. $125+. editInn and Spa at Loretto, 211 Old Santa Fe Trail,5059885531, [133]. As the leading Santa Fe hotel, The Inn and Spa at Loretto is famous for itstraditional pueblo architecture and first class service. This Boutique hotel in New Mexico features avariety of luxury Santa Fe lodging accommodations, a day spa, and much more. editBudget[edit]

Budget hotels and motels in Santa Fe are few and far between. The economy-rate chains all havefranchises in town, but it's not clear that most can really be considered "budget" lodging. Try oneand write it up here.

Comfort Suites Santa Fe, 3348 Cerrillos Rd, +1 505 473-9004, [134]. An entirely non-smoking hotel.Complimentary breakfast buffet. edit Holiday Inn Express Suites Cerrillos, 3450 Cerrillos Rd, +1 505474-7570, [135]. A long way from downtown, and the "ambience" of Cerrillos Road is nothing towrite home about, yet not bad. edit Santa Fe International Hostel, 1412 Cerrillos Rd, +1 505 988-1153, [136]. An independently owned, traditional hostel and boarding house offering dormitoryaccommodations and private rooms. It has been around for several decades and is still going strong.Offers a lot of free food, well beyond a continental breakfast, pay phones, laundry facilities, maps, alounge, and internet use (for an additional daily fee). edit Santa Fe Luxury Inn, 3752 Cerrillos Rd,

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+1 505 474-6709, [137]. Complimentary continental breakfast, a swimming pool with hot tub, aconvenient location, free high speed Internet, and easy access to area attractions. edit Santa FeSage Inn, 725 Cerrillos Rd, +1 505 982-5952 (toll free: +1 866 433-0335, fax: +1 505 984-8879),[138]. A no-frills "motor lodge" with surprisingly quiet and comfortable rooms given the low rates.Closer to the downtown attractions than other Cerrillos Road lodging. From $50. editMid-range[edit]There are a number of bed and breakfast establishments beyond the ones shown here. For moreinformation, try Bed & Breakfast Accommodations, +1 866 277 1002. edit Rates vary not onlyseasonally but also with the room, as each establishment will have a range of room sizes andaccommodations; larger and more luxurious rooms are likely to reach the "Splurge" category. Inaddition to B&Bs, one can also rent furnished homes, large or small ("casitas") which allows you toprepare at least some of your own meals, and enjoy a little more space, both indoors and outdoors.Here are a few agencies, followed by classic bed & breakfast choices.Aqui Santa Fe, 17 Bishop'sLodge Trail, Santa Fe, NM 87506, +1 505984-8885 ([email protected]), [139]. a small butselect group of luxuriously furnished and equipped houses and casitas, some with art collections, allwith gourmet kitchens, Frette bedding, fireplaces, patios or gardens." From $200/night. editSantaFe Vacation Rentals, 433 Paseo de Peralta, Santa Fe NM 87501, +1 505 982-3966([email protected], fax: 505-919-7089), [140]. a property management companyproviding unique, luxurious, and comfortable vacation rentals designed for the seasoned travelervisiting Santa Fe, New Mexico. Santa Fe Vacation Rentals, LLC has been recommended by AmericanExpress, Conde Nast and Andrew Harpers "Hideaway Report." From $200/night. editThe ChapelleStreet Casitas, 209 Chapelle, Santa Fe NM, +1 505 780 3221, [141]. A collection of 30 Cottages,Houses, and Casitas all in the only residential neighborhood inside the Plaza edit Casa Cuma Bed &Breakfast, 105 Paseo de la Cuma, +1 505 216-7516 ([email protected]), [142]. checkin: 3 to 5;checkout: 11:00. Nice B&B with mountain views, full hot gourmet breakast and just 4 blocks to thePlaza. edit Casa de Estrellas, 310 E Marcy St, +1 505 995-0100, [143]. A beautiful B&B located nearthe plaza. On-site spa. Casitas with a living area, dining area, kitchen, bed and bath. edit CasapuebloInn, 138 Park Ave, +1 505 988-4455, [144]. Casapueblo is is one of the newest downtown inns.Located in Santa Fe's historic downtown area (Plaza). edit Dancing Ground of the Sun Bed andBreakfast, 711 Paseo de Peralta, +1 505 986-9797, [145]. One of several B&Bs relatively close to thedowntown area. edit Pueblo Bonito, 138 W Manhattan Ave, +1 505 984-8001, [146]. Secludedbehind its thick adobe walls, Pueblo Bonito Inn is a true historic Santa Fe Bed and Breakfast. editWater Street Inn, 427 W Water St, +1 505 984-1193, [147]. And another. edit Zona Rosa Suites, 429W San Francisco St, +1 505 988-4455, [148]. Each one, two and three-bedroom suites is appointedwith a Kiva fireplace, saltillo tile floors, and viga ceilings. edit Dunshee's B&B and Casita, 986Acequia Madre, +1 505 982-0988 ([email protected], fax: +1 505 982-1547), [149]. A small B&Bnear the Canyon Road art district. edit El Farolito Bed and Breakfast, 514 Galisteo St, +1 505 988-1631 (toll free: +1 888 634-8782, [email protected]), [150]. Within easy walking distance ofdowntown and the Plaza. Authentically furnished casitas and great gourmet breakfasts -- thechicken-and-apple-sausage quiche is worth the trip in and of itself. edit Inn of the Turquoise Bear,342 E Buena Vista St, +1 (505) 983-0798 ([email protected]), [151]. checkin: 3-6 pm;checkout: 11 am. Historic adobe villa estate surrounded by gardens. Enjoy gourmet breakfasts, wineand cheese hour, and a great location walking distance to downtown and the Plaza. Pet friendlyrooms available. $95-320. edit Alexander's Inn, 529 E Palace Ave, +1 505 986-1431, [152]. editDelmar En La Cienega, 50 Entrada La Cienega, +1 505 471-6498, [153]. Wonderful, atmosphericB&B with great breakfasts. 10 miles south of town on I-25 but a quick drive into the city. edit ElParadero Bed and Breakfast Inn, 220 W Manhattan Ave, +1 505 988-1177 (toll free: +1 866 558-0918, [email protected]), [154]. On a quiet downtown side street. Gourmet breakfasts andafternoon teas. edit Casa Del Toro Santa Fe Bed and Breakfast, 229 McKenzie St, +1 866-476-1091(toll free: +1505 715 6861, [email protected]), [155]. A compound of adobe cottages. Hotbreakfast served every morning. edit Hacienda Dona Andrea de Santa Fe, 78 Vista del Oro, Cerrillos,+1 505 424-8995, [156]. An exceptional private inn located 30 minutes south of the city but still in

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Santa Fe County. Spectacular views, authentic Spanish Colonial style Hacienda on 65 acre mountainestate. Santa Fe wedding planning and events. edit Santa Fe Motel & Inn, 510 Cerrillos Rd, +1 505982-1039 (toll free: +1 800 930-5002, [email protected], fax: +1 505 986-1275), [157]. Locatednear the Railyard District. Complimentary hot breakfast, free wireless. edit Most major hotel chainshave franchises in Santa Fe, mainly located outside the main tourist areas. A few on Cerrillos Roadremoved from downtown, hence better value-for-dollar if you don't mind the distance: Hampton Inn,3625 Cerrillos Rd, +1 505 474-3900. Notable for accepting (attended) pets. edit Holiday Inn, 4048Cerrillos Rd, +1 505 473-4646. edit Quality Inn, 3011 Cerrillos Rd, +1 505 471-1211. They claim tooffer free transportation to the train station, which is no small distance away. Check it out. editThere are many others on Cerrillos Road; non-chain options include: Inn at Santa Fe, 8376 CerrillosRd, +1 505 474-9500, [158]. edit Santa Fe Luxury Inn, 3752 Cerrillos Rd, +1 505 474-6709, [159].edit Several of the classic downtown hotels/lodges approach "Splurge" status, particularly duringpeak periods, both for their locations and their quality, but a splurge is frequently worth the expensefor those who want an authentic Santa Fe experience. A couple of the more reasonably priced ones:Don Gaspar Inn, 623 Don Gaspar Ave, +1 505 986-8664 (toll free: +1 888 986-8664, fax: +1 505986-0696), [160]. checkin: 3PM; checkout: 11PM. A short walk to the Plaza, galleries, spas, uniqueshops, and wonderful restaurants. The gardens and courtyards surround the three houses thatcomprise the Inn and cover half the block. The Inn offers 10 spacious suites and rooms. $105-$355.edit Inn on the Alameda, 303 E Alameda St, +1 505 984-2121 (toll free: +1 888 984-2121,[email protected], fax: +1 505 986 9325), [161]. checkin: 4pm; checkout: 12noon.As the closest hotel to the art galleries of Canyon Road, the Inn offers an ideal location for exploringall the Santa Fe Plaza area's attractions, with a setting at the edge of one of the city's nicestresidential areas, resulting in more peaceful hotel stay. Spread across three acres, this is downtownSanta Fe's most value-added property, with a lavish complimentary continental breakfast andafternoon wine and cheese reception served daily, free parking and wi-fi access, and parking andlocal and toll-free calls all at no charge. Two pets under 100 pounds are accepted in dedicated petrooms with a nightly deposit. Seasonal rates range from $159 to $599, with January and Februarybeing the most affordable time to splurge on a stay at this cozy inn. edit Hotel Plaza Real, 125Washington Ave, +1 505 988-4900. This is a great boutique hotel just off the historic Plaza and justbehind the New Mexico history museum. edit Hotel Santa Fe, 1501 Paseo de Peralta, +1 505 982-1200. A little more distant from the Plaza than some of the others, hence a little less expensive, andstill within comfortable walking distance of most of the good stuff. Singles from $99 depending onseason. edit Hilton of Santa Fe, 100 Sandoval St, +1 505 988-2811. An old standard, one of the fewdowntown hotels that doesn't raise its rates during the tourist season. No longer an "elegant" hotel,but not bad at all. A great place for conferences too. Singles from $129. edit Hotel St. Francis, 210Don Gaspar Ave, +1 505 983-5700, [162]. Atmospheric, and close to the downtown attractions.Good, if sedate, people-watching at the bar (see under "Drink"). On the National Registry of HistoricPlaces. Was renovated just recently and reflects a Franciscan Missionary style. edit Lodge at SantaFe, 750 N St. Francis Dr, +1 505 992-5800, [163]. checkin: 4PM; checkout: 12PM. Just north of thecity but only 3-5 minutes from the Plaza. Every summer they feature the Juan Siddi FlamencoTheatre Company live performances. Complimentary shuttle downtown, an onsite restaurant,swimming pool, Jacuzzi, complimentary Wi-Fi, and event spaces. editSplurge[edit] Bishop's LodgeResort, on Bishop's Lodge Road north of town, +1 505 983-6377, [164]. A full-service resort in thebeautiful Tesuque Valley features horseback riding, spa, tennis courts, summer children'sprograms,and more in a peaceful setting away from the hubbub of the Plaza, but not so far away asto be inconvenient. Complimentary shuttle to and from the Plaza. Rates from $199, seasonalvariations. edit Eldorado Hotel & Spa, 309 W San Francisco St (2 blocks west of the Plaza), +1 505988-4455, [165]. A large and spectacular property convenient to the downtown attractions. Roomsare well done and atmospheric. The Old House restaurant was honored as Zagat's top pick for diningin New Mexico [166]. Lively lounge with frequent live entertainment, and many amenities. NidahSpa is in the hotel [167]. edit Inn and Spa at Loretto, 211 Old Santa Fe Trail, +1 505 988-5531,

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[168]. Art galleries and a full service day spa, in addition to the lodging. From $229, with substantialseasonal variations. edit Rosewood Inn of the Anasazi, 113 Washington Ave (just northeast of thePlaza), +1 505 988-3030, [169]. This four-star Santa Fe luxury hotel offers fine dining, a businesscenter, and Southwestern style boutique accommodations. Rooms from $200, seasonal variations.edit La Fonda Hotel, 100 E San Francisco St (on the Plaza, at the end of the Santa Fe Trail), +1 505982-5511, [170]. The quintessential Santa Fe hotel, with the Plaza on one corner, beautiful SaintFrancis Cathedral across the street, and several interesting and not-too-touristy shops on thepremises. They have their own parking garage, no small advantage in the downtown area. Roomsfrom $219, with (atypically for downtown hotels) no seasonal adjustments; occasional package deals.edit La Posada de Santa Fe Resort & Spa, 330 E Palace Ave, +1 505 986-0000 (toll free: +1 866 331-7625), [171]. 157-room boutique resort and full-service spa offering adobe-style rooms and suites,many with fireplaces and patios. Located downtown and two blocks from the historic Plaza, artgalleries, and shopping. edit Sunrise Springs Inn and Retreat, 242 Los Pinos Rd (outside of town),+1 505 471-3600 (toll free: +1 800 955-0028), [172]. Has spiritual gatherings, spa and conferencefacilities in a far more rural, rustic setting than most Santa Fe lodging. editCamping[edit]

There are several commercial campgrounds in town (Los Campos de Santa Fe RV Resort [173],Rancheros de Santa Fe[174], Santa Fe KOA, Santa Fe Skies RV Park), but the camping is much morerewarding along the road to the Santa Fe Ski Basin. There are several campgrounds in Santa FeNational Forest on this road, and there is also good camping at the very pretty Hyde Memorial StatePark [175] between forest and city. If you're planning on using the national-forest or Hyde Parkcampsites, make sure you have enough clothing and bedding to stay warm; they're in the Sangre deCristo Mountains and get cold at night.

Stay safe[edit]

Santa Fe is a fairly safe city as regards violent crime, despite the widely publicized occurrence ofoccasional hate crimes. In reality, the crime rate, with the exception of residential burglary (adefinite problem in town but one unlikely to affect the traveler), is not high compared to otherAmerican communities of comparable size, and the visitor is very unlikely to have any crime-relatedproblems. Some of the bars can get a little rough, with ethnic tensions frequently a factor despitethe city's multicultural nature; simply don't stir up trouble and you should be OK. Otherwise, publicareas are generally quite safe, and are well yet unobtrusively patrolled by the city police.

Much more of a problem is automobile safety, for several reasons. Many of the roads were builtduring a slower-paced, less-populous time, and lack the carrying capacity for the current crowds.Northern New Mexico has serious problems with drunk driving, and Santa Fe is not exempt fromthese, particularly late at night. Another factor is an inexplicably high density of bad drivers and/ordecrepit vehicles with poorly secured cargo; natives often speak of having a "New Mexico moment"when something falls off the back of a pickup or trailer and into the roadway in front of anunsuspecting driver. This is a good place to practice your defensive driving, particularly along St.Francis Drive and Cerrillos Road (the intersection of these two has been voted the most dangerousintersection in all of New Mexico). Running red lights is one of the state pastimes, and reaches itszenith in Santa Fe; be extremely vigilant when pulling away from an intersection when the lightchanges. On the positive side, most motorists are fairly tolerant (if not always aware) of pedestriansand bicyclists.

Finally, be alert for signs of health problems associated with high altitude, particularly if you ventureout of town toward the mountains. The most common problems are headache and/or feeling tiredmay occur, drinking more water or going to lower altitude may help (a trip down La Bajada to thereservoir will usually do it). Also pay attention during hikes and bike rides, remember you are at

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7,000 feet--sunscreen is important, even in the winter. The dryness of the air combined with physicalexertion will often leave you not sweating through your clothes even if it's 85 degrees out, and manypeople won't realize they are working hard without that. Dehydration is a common issue for visitors--bring more water than you might otherwise. Some visitors report increased sensitivity to alcoholdue to the altitude.


The Internet cafe phenomenon is a relatively recent arrival in Santa Fe, and new outlets are poppingup fast enough that it's hard to keep track. Check back on this list occasionally, as it's expanding.

Java Joe's, in two locations: 2801 Rodeo Road, +1 505 474-5282, and 2430 Cerrillos Rd. (CollegePlaza), +1 505 471-5637. 7AM - 7PM (5PM Sundays) at the Rodeo location, 7AM - 9PM at CollegePlaza. Coffeehouse first, Internet cafe second, but fun. Several of the more casual restaurants arejoining the Internet party. Santa Fe Baking Company, the Aztec Cafe and Pyramid Cafe (see aboveunder Eat) also claim to offer free wireless access. Most of the major hotels offer wideband serviceto guests. Ten Thousand Waves Japanese Spa and Resort, 3451 Hyde Park Road (on the way to theSanta Fe Ski Basin), +1 505 982-9304, [176]. A Japanese bathhouse with communal and private hottubs, body wraps, several schools of massage, facials, etc., that can feel incredibly good after a dayof skiing. Reservations strongly recommended, and mandatory if you're getting a massage orcomparable treatments. Mainly a "day spa," but there are a small number of rooms for overnightstays, in the "Mid-range" to "Splurge" class. The Spa at Loretto, 211 Old Santa Fe Trail, +1 505 984-7997, [177]. Full-service day spa at the Inn at Loretto. Tone, 901 W. San Mateo Rd., +1 505 989-8552. Advertises itself as "Body and Face for Women;" more massage, facials, etc. Several of thehotels in town also offer spa services. More pedestrian resources for the traveler (laundromats,grocery stores, auto repair shops, etc.) tend to congregate along St. Francis Drive, St. MichaelsDrive and Cerrillos Road. If you look for these services downtown (Plaza area), you'll pay extra forthem without getting anything special in terms of goods and services; get away from the glamourdistrict and save some money. SpaNomad:Massage & Traveling Spa, On-Site Massage (professionalmassage therapists come to wherever you are), +1 505 490-0591, [178]. A mobile massage servicefeaturing Indian head massage, Hawaiian lomi lomi, Thai massage, body wraps and several otherstyles of massage in your own hotel or vacation rental. Mainly a "traveling spa," but SpaNomad alsohas trainings in Indian head massage and provides massage at several local events.Getout[edit]Native Americana[edit]

One of the major contributors to Santa Fe's fame is the large number of American Indian pueblos(towns) nearby. Several are important centers for folk art; most permit visitors at dances and othertribal ceremonial events; and from a more contemporary perspective, several host casinos withgambling, night life, etc. Nearly all pueblos charge a fee for photography, video, sketching, etc., asan attempt to mitigate the impact of tourism on the private life of the inhabitants. For more detailedinfo on each pueblo, see New Mexico Pueblos.

Some of the nearby pueblos that are accessible to the public, at least on occasion, are ("A" denotes aprimary folk-art center, "C" means casino, "D" means dances or other ceremonials open to thepublic):

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San Ildefonso Pueblo potteryCochiti Pueblo [179] --southwest of town, A/DNambe Pueblo -- north, D, pleasant campground and waterfallOhkay OwingehPueblo (formerly San Juan Pueblo, and still so listed on many maps) -- north, A/C/DPojoaque Pueblo -- north, C/D, not much there but an interesting museum and gaudy casinoSan Ildefonso Pueblo --northwest, A/D, a major pottery centerSanta Clara Pueblo -- northwest, A/D, another major potterycenterSanto Domingo Pueblo -- southwest, A/D(?), excellent for pottery and jewelryTesuque Pueblo --north, C (note: pueblo itself is closed to the public)

Dances and ceremonials take place throughout the year, but one not-to-be-missed special event isthe Eight Northern Indian Pueblos Annual Arts and Crafts Show, held in mid-July at one of thepueblos, frequently Ohkay Owingeh. Many of the artisans use this event as a "tune-up" for the SantaFe Indian Market the following month, so that both quality and quantity of the available work arequite high, yet the prices are often considerably better than for comparable (sometimes the exactsame) work at the Indian Market. The 2008 version will be at Ohkay Owingeh on July 19-20; beprepared for heat and dust, wear comfortable shoes, and feel entirely free to avoid the noisomecasino just outside the parking lot.

Other[edit] Scenery at Kasha-Katuwe Tent RocksNational MonumentFor a comprehensive tour of Santa Fe, check out one of their open-air guidedtours. There are several of these motorized tour companies, like The Loretto Line [180]. They haveknowledgeable tour guides who speak about the history, culture, art scene and architecture of SantaFe. Several operators offer specialized tours -- ghost tours, art and even restaurant tours. Or for asplurge or a group, design a customized tour from one of several experts. Choose your "inspiration" -- areas of interest like art, Native American culture, motorcycle tours, etc. -- on the web site of SevenDirections Custom Tours [181], by Patrizia Antonicelli, an Italian who also speaks French (andEnglish). Taos, known for arts and crafts as well as a superb downhill ski area, is about two hoursnorth of Santa Fe.The Enchanted Circle [182] is a scenic (but long) drive that includes Taos andEagle Nest.Santa Fe National Forest is nearby and offers abundant outdoor recreationalopportunities. The Santa Fe Ski Basin [183] is a short distance outside town, in the high country ofthe forest (seriously high -- even the base of the runs is above 10,000', so think carefully whether youwant to go there if you have respiratory problems or are prone to altitude sickness). In addition to

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the obvious skiing, the lifts often operate during the summer, taking visitors to near the top of12,000'-plus Tesuque Peak for great views. The road to the ski area goes through an aspen grovewith spectacularly golden foliage (and hordes of people looking at the trees -- don't expect privacy)in the fall, and several trails lead into the national forest from trailheads along the way. Some of thetrails turn into interesting Nordic ski tracks in the winter.Kasha-Katuwe Tent Rocks NationalMonument [184] is just south of town near Cochiti Lake in the central region, and is covered in thatregion's article. Many guidebooks of the area omit this little gem, which is open for day use($5/vehicle) and includes a trail through a short but spectacular bit of slot canyon. Highlyrecommended for the hiker with half a day to spend.A trip to Los Alamos and nearby BandelierNational Monument is a great excursion from Santa Fe. If you want to make a day of it, you cancontinue on into the Jemez Mountains and Valles Caldera National Preserve (plan ahead, as thePreserve's more interesting activities require advance reservations).White-water rafting is excellenton the nearby Rio Grande and Rio Chama, with trips ranging from easy half-day floats to taxingmulti-day outings. Kokopelli Rafting Adventures, 551 W. Cordova Rd. #540, +1 800 879-9035, [185]is one of several good outfitters operating out of Santa Fe; other good ones can be found along theroad to and in Taos. Reservations are a must, particularly during peak season (usually June to earlyJuly).

Cerrillos/Madrid & The Turquoise Trail (State Hwy 14) Set in the sleepy, traditional village of LosCerrillos, the New Cerrillos Hills State Park offers 5 miles of hiking, biking and sight-seeing only 15miles south of Santa Fe. The village offers a few galleries, antiques and a Petting Zoo and miningmuseum that kids and adults will love. Continue down the road to visit Madrid. *If you're not tired ofthe art scene by the time you leave Santa Fe, head south on SR 14 to more funky Art, Food & Fun.Madrid, an old mining town turned art colony, significantly lower-key than Santa Fe itself.Albuquerque lies beyond, with its own attractions; getting to Albuquerque via SR 14 is slower thanthe direct route on I-25, but compensates with far reduced traffic and nice scenery.

Routes through Santa Fe This is a star article. It is a high-quality article complete withmaps, photos, and great information. If you know of something that has changed, please plunge

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forward and help it grow!