dn 4 2012 downmagaz.ws

HEALTH NUTRITION FITNESS LIFESTYLE DIET & WEIGHT CUISINEApril 2012 www.TDN-Digital.com

Editor’s Note

Spring CleaningIt’s that time when many of us start cleaning out closets and purging old, unused, or unnecessary belongings. This year, why not start with the kitchen and rid your cabinets of junk food? I’m not suggesting that you

toss all your guilty pleasures, but we can all eject some of the less-than-wholesome foods with empty calories so we can restock with those that are more nutritious. Just a little housekeeping can help tip the balance toward better health.

Fill the empty spaces with foods such as miso and chia seeds. OK, I know what you’re thinking. They don’t sound nearly as appealing as cookies and chips. True enough, but both are items you can sneak into all types of foods, from savory to sweet, to give yourself a burst of nutrients.

In this issue, dietitian Matthew Kadey sings the praises of chia. He shows you simple ways to incor-porate it into prepared foods and explores its uses as a culinary ingredient. And chef and cookbook author Candice Kumai shares delicious recipes starring miso, a healthful and flavorful staple of Japanese cooking.

While you’re at it, consider spring cleaning the fridge, too, replacing sugary sodas with water and low-fat milk, two of the recommendations contrib-utor Michele Deppe heard when she asked the experts—in this case, RDs—what they drink.

And if you are or aspire to be an elite athlete, make room for chocolate milk. Dietitian Lynn Grieger shares the delicious finding that chocolate milk is a perfect food for recovery from exercise.

Look for these stories, along with recipes for spring holiday entertaining, in this issue.

President & CEO Kathleen CzermanskiVice President & COO Mara E. Honicker

Publisher Mara E. Honicker

EDITORIALEditor Kate Jackson

Senior Production Editor Tracy DenningerEditorial Staff Lee DeOrio, Heather Hogstrom, Jim Knaub,

Marianne Mallon, Brandi Redding, Judith Riddle, Juliann Schaeffer, Barbara Worthington

EDITORIAL ADVISORY BOARDSuzanne Bowland; Shelley Case, RD; Nancy Collins, PhD, RD, LDN;

David Feder, RD; Laura Pensiero, RD; Brenda Ponichtera, RD; Jennifer E. Van Pelt, MA, CWE, CWC

ARTArt Director Susan Kilcoyne

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All articles contained in Today’s Diet & Nutrition, including letters to the editor, reviews, and editorials, represent the opinions of the authors, not those of Great Valley Publishing Company, Inc., or any organizations with which the authors may be affi liated. Great Valley Publishing Company, Inc., its editors, and its editorial advisors do not assume responsibil-ity for opinions expressed by the authors or individuals quoted in the magazine, for the

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© Great Valley Publishing Company, Inc., 2012

Kate Jackson

2 TODAY’S DIET & NUTRITION

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Todays_Diet_&_Nutrition_MAY2012.indd 1 3/27/12 5:40 PM

April 2012Volume 8, Number 4

contents

22 Ham Five WaysChef Jonathan Dixon delivers recipes fit for a holiday gathering and just right for leftovers. »

26 Passover CharosetsThere’s a traditional charoset—a mixture of ground fruits and nuts—for nearly every country where Jews have settled the world over. »

Baked Ham With Several

Glazes

22

on the cover16 Miso

20 Sports Nutrition

22 Easter Ham Five Ways

26 Passover Charosets

34 Q & A With Isabel Gillies

about the coverSalad With Miso-Ginger Dressing (page 17) Photo by Gary Dolgoff


April 2012Volume 8, Number 4

departments

8 Etcetera

10 Ask the Experts Healthy Beverages

12 Powerhouse Chia

16 International Flavors Miso

18 Crossword Puzzle

20 Sports Nutrition Chocolate Milk

30 Wine & Spirits Kosher Wine

32 Books for Cooks

34 Q & A Isabel Gillies

36 What I Can’t Live Without T. Susan Chang

36

Sasha’s Mushroom Soup

in every issue2 Editor’s Note

7 Contributors/Advisors

38 Uncommon Taste

40 Coming Next Issue/What’s Cooking Online

10

12

30


MICHELE DEPPE is an award-winning freelance writer based in Seattle (www.micheledeppe.com).

JONATHAN DIXON is the author of Beaten, Seared, and Sauced, an account of his education at The Culinary Institute of America.

DAVID FEDER, RD, is a former professional chef and author of The Skinny Carbs Diet. He’s director of S/F/B Communications Group, a cooperative of experts providing food and nutri-tion communications and consulting for all media.

LYNN GRIEGER, RD, CDE, cPT, is a health, food, and fitness coach in southwestern Vermont and online at www.lynngrieger.com.

DEBORAH R. HUSO is a free-lance writer based in Blue Grass, Virginia. Author of the book Moon Blue Ridge & Smoky Mountains, she frequently writes about travel, agriculture, wild-life, the environment, and outdoor recreation (www.drhuso.com).

MATTHEW KADEY, MS, RD, is a Canada-based dietitian and nutrition writer (www.muffintinmania.com, www.mattkadey.ca).

CANDICE KUMAI is a healthy lifestyle chef, author, and television host. She is the author of Pretty Delicious, the newest judge on Iron Chef America, cohost of the Lifetime TV series Cook Yourself Thin, chef contrib-utor on the Cooking Chan-nel’s Unique Eats, and a Top Chef alumna.

CAROL PATTON is a freelance journalist based in Las Vegas. Her stories have appeared in national trade and consumer magazines (www.carol pattonwriter.com).

Contributors

AdvisorsSuzanne Bowland, founder and president of GF Culinary Produc tions, Inc and author of The Living Gluten-Free Answer Book

Shelley Case, RD, a leading international expert on celiac disease and the gluten-free diet and author of Gluten-Free Diet: A Compre hensive Resource Guide Nancy Collins, PhD, RD, LDN, executive director of RD411.com

David Feder, RD, former top chef and magazine editor, now director of S/F/B Communications Group, a cooperative of experts consulting on nutrition, food, health, and lifestyle

Laura Pensiero, RD, owner of Gigi Trattoria and Gigi Market, founder and director of Chef4Life, and author of Hudson Valley Mediterranean: The Gigi Good Food Cookbook

Brenda Ponichtera, RD, president of ScaleDown Publishing, Inc and author of two Quick & Healthy cookbooks

Jennifer E. Van Pelt, MA, CWE, CWC, fitness instructor, healthcare research analyst, and freelance writer

For our advisors’ full bios and websites, visit www.TDN-Digital.com.

TD&N Nutrient AnalysesA nutrient analysis for each recipe (except those already containing anal-yses) is created using Food Processor SQL nutrition and fitness software by ESHA. Recipes are analyzed for calories, total fat, saturated fat, mono-unsaturated fat, polyunsaturated fat, cholesterol, protein, carbohydrates, fiber, and sodium. Each amount is rounded to the nearest whole number. Nonspecific amounts (for example, “salt and pepper to taste”), decorative garnishes, and ingredients that are not consumed (such as marinades or excess dipping sauces) are not included.

APRIL 2012 7

Etcetera


APRIL 2012 9

The USDA recently introduced the simpler MyPlate eating plan. Shown beside the plate is a glass marked dairy. Milk still does a body good, but what else could fill the

cup? Here’s what nutritional experts pour for them-selves and recommend to clients.

DRINKING LIKE A DIETITIANThroughout the day, you can drink the dietitian way. Here’s what Melissa Joy Dobbins, MS, RD, LDN, CDE, a spokesperson for the Academy of Nutrition and Dietetics, imbibes: “In the morning, a decaf, nonfat latté to skip the fat and caffeine but keep the calcium, protein, and other beneficial nutrients in nonfat milk.” Save money, she says, by making your morning latté at home with an inexpensive, hand-held milk frother from a kitchen store.

Dobbins also drinks water. “But if plain water fails to entice you, add a squeeze of lemon, a shot of fruit juice, or a dash of calorie-free flavored drink mix,” she says. “You don’t need to use the full strength if you don’t want to, just enough to help you get the water your body needs without the sugar and calories it doesn’t.”

She recommends milk at dinnertime, especially with the family. “Not only is your body getting protein, calcium, and vitamin D, you’re being a good role model for the kids.”

ALLERGIC TO WHAT YOU DRINK?Which beverages are the least risky for people with food sensitivities, lactose intolerance, and allergies? “Water, coffee, tea, or diet carbonated beverages are good choices for hydration and free of any potential allergens,” says Marianne Smith Edge, MS, RD, of the International Food Information Council.

“Replacing milk with soy or nut milk is important. When people are allergic to several foods, such as soy, nuts, and dairy, then calcium-enriched juices are good choices.”

SPORTS SIPS“My favorite drinks for exercise are water or sports drinks,” says sports dietitian Hannah Nelson, MS, RD, LN, of the National Institute for Athletic Health & Performance and Center for Youth Sports & Health in Sioux Falls, South Dakota. ”Water is sufficient unless you’re doing moderate- to high-intensity exercise, such as running or cycling that lasts longer than 60 minutes. Then consider adding a sports drink such as Gatorade or Powerade because of the added carbohydrate for energy and the electrolytes. Look for one that provides 30 to 60 grams of carbohydrate per hour of exercise,” Nelson says. “Diet sports drinks aren’t the best choice for extended exercise because they don’t contain enough carbohydrate.”

— Michele Deppe

Ask the Experts

Healthy BeveragesWhat Nutrition Pros Drink


I ’VE GOT NOTHING TO HIDE

A TRULY DELICIOUS FRUIT & NUT BAR WITH NOTHING TO HIDE.

www.bakeryonmain.com

The Little Seed That Could There’s a lot more to chia than a catchy jingle.

Pity the poor beleaguered chia seed. After centuries as a revered Aztec and Mayan source of nourishment, the chia seed was first banned by the conquering Spanish

conquistadors and then unceremoniously down-graded to a sloppy paste slathered over terracotta puppies. Oh, how things have changed since the Chia pet craze.

The diminutive seeds of the Salvia hispanica plant, a member of the mint family native to Mexico, are experiencing a 21st-century renaissance as a bona fide powerfood as word spreads that as far as good-for-you foods go, chia couldn’t be a more standout citizen. An endorsement by Dr. Oz has only spurred interest.

Chia has soaring levels of dietary fiber. A mere tablespoon contains about 5 grams of disease-fighting dietary fiber. In fact, nearly all the carbo-hydrate present in chia is in the form of fiber. A high intake of fiber—about 30 grams per day for men and 25 grams for women—may reduce the risk of mortality from cardiovascular disease by up to 60%, according to 2011 findings in the Archives of Internal Medicine. Unfortunately, the average American consumes only about one-half of the recommended amount.

The high viscosity of chia’s soluble fiber slows digestion in the stomach, decreasing blood sugar levels and promoting satiety, which helps reduce diabetes risk and stymies overeating, respectively.

In the book Born to Run, author Christopher McDougall reports that the Tarahumara Indians in Mexico, who are known for their incredible running endur-ance, often consume a chia drink before long runs to help quell hunger.

Another reason to shout “Ch-ch-ch-chia!” is the stellar amount of the heart-healthy essential omega-3 fat alpha-linoleic acid—about the same amount found in flaxseed—but you don’t need to grind it into a powder for proper absorption as you do with flax. A diet enriched with chia has been shown to improve the ratio of omega-3 to omega-6 fats in the blood. The U.S. populace consumes much higher amounts of omega-6 fats than omega-3s, which raises the

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Powerhouse CHIA POWERWith surging demand, an increasing number of companies are making it

easy to get your daily chia fix. risk of heart-hampering inflammation. Omega-6 fatty acids are abundant in cheap vegetables oils that are omnipresent in fast-food kitchens and pack-aged foods.

The overachieving chia seed also provides a vege-tarian source of protein, a plethora of antioxidants, and the bone-building trio of calcium, phosphorus, and magnesium. Though often underconsumed, magnesium has been shown to confer protection against type 2 diabetes, possibly by improving insulin sensitivity. It now seems obvious why the Mayan word for strength is chia.

Chia plants produce both black and white seeds, each considered to be equally nutritious.

CHIA IN THE KITCHENAlmost tasteless, chia seeds can be mixed into a wide range of dishes without altering the flavor. Here’s how to load up on the salubrious seed:l Mix a tablespoon into yogurt for a nutritious snack.l Replace 1⁄3 cup of flour in a pancake or baked good recipe with chia powder.l Make chia fresca by stirring together 1 cup of water, 2 teaspoons of chia seeds, the juice of half a lemon or lime, and 2 teaspoons of honey or agave syrup. l Sprinkle onto vegetable or fruit salads.l Blend into your favorite smoothies. l Mix together 1 tablespoon of chia seeds and 3 tablespoons of water. Allow the mixture to sit for 15 minutes and use as an egg substitute when baking cakes, muffins, and cookies. l Make chia pudding by blending the seeds, cocoa powder, and maple syrup with milk or a nondairy alternative such as coconut milk. Let sit to thicken. l Mix the seeds into beef when making meatballs, burgers, or meatloaf. l Incorporate chia into oatmeal or homemade granola. l Add to stews and soups as a thickener.

— Matthew Kadey, MS, RD


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DeVolVe YoUr Diet

International Flavors

How Do You Say Flavor in Japanese?

Miso!

Miso may not sound appealing—a thick fermented paste typically made from salt, soybeans, and a mold culture—but once it captures your attention, it

will set up permanent residence in your refrigerator and quickly become your condiment of choice.

Though evidence suggests it originated in China thousands of years ago, miso is a cooking staple in Japan where, as in the United States, it’s widely

believed to be a nutrition powerhouse. While it is rich in amino acids, vitamins, and minerals, it’s not clear yet whether miso has earned its legendary status as a health food. Science has yet to confirm all the health benefits claimed for the rich paste through the centuries, but that’s no reason not to make it a staple in your kitchen. It may or may not be a superfood, but one thing is indisputable: Miso is a culinary powerhouse.

If you’ve only enjoyed miso in a bowl, you’re missing out on a world of flavor it imparts when added to dressings, marinades, sauces, and glazes. Find it in red, white, or mixed varieties at Asian markets or in the refrigerator section of health food stores and many supermarkets and then get started with these recipes by Candice Kumai, chef and author of Pretty Delicious: Lean and Lovely Recipes for a Healthy, Happy New You.

Miso-Glazed Turbot

Serves 4

2 tablespoons red miso paste

2 tablespoons rice wine vinegar1⁄2 teaspoon soy sauce

1 tablespoon honey

11⁄2 teaspoons sesame oil

41⁄2 pounds turbot fillets, skin removed*

In a small bowl, whisk together first five ingredients to create the glaze.

Using a pastry brush, gently spread a thin layer of marinade over the fish.

Transfer to a baking dish and cover with remaining marinade. Cover dish with aluminum foil and let the fish marinate for 30 to 60 minutes in the refrigerator.

Preheat oven to 350˚F. Bake fish until firm and flaky, about 25

minutes.

Miso-Glazed Turbot

Roasted Miso Honey Glazed

Root Vegetables


*Other fish such as halibut, flounder, or cod can also be used.

TD&N Nutrient Analysis: Calories: 481; Total Fat:

16 g; Saturated Fat: 4 g; Polyunsaturated Fat: 5 g;

Monounsaturated Fat: 4 g; Cholesterol: 220 mg;

Sodium: 1,102 mg; Carbohydrates: 6 g; Fiber: 0 g;

Protein: 75 g

NOTE: This recipe is not ideal for people on low-sodium diets.

Roasted Miso Honey Glazed Root Vegetables

2 tablespoons red or white miso paste

2 tablespoons honey

2 tablespoons rice wine vinegar

2 tablespoons sesame oil

11⁄2 pounds root vegetables, such as carrots,

parsnips, waxy potatoes, turnips, or

rutabagas

In a mixing bowl, combine the first four ingre-dients to create a marinade and whisk well to incorporate.

Peel and slice the root vegetables into 1⁄2-inch pieces. (If using beets, wear gloves while preparing them and add them last.) Toss the root veggies in the marinade until coated. Allow them to sit for approximately 20 minutes.

Place the root veggies on a large, foil-lined tray and cook for approximately 45 minutes. Serve with a miso-glazed fish or tofu.

TD&N Nutrient Analysis (based on 4 servings):

Calories: 220; Total Fat: 8 g; Saturated Fat: 1 g; Poly-

unsaturated Fat: 3 g; Monounsaturated Fat: 3 g;

Cholesterol: 0 mg; Sodium: 418 mg; Carbohydrates:

37 g; Fiber: 6 g; Protein: 3 g

— Recipes by Candice Kumai

Miso Soup

Creamy Miso Dip and Crudité

Salad With Miso-Ginger Dressing

APRIL 2012 17

Crossword Puzzle

Across1. Diet design to stop hypertension

3. Batavian and romaine

8. Leaf vegetables

11. Rainbow ____ (fish)

12. Trailing plant

13. Seed for flavoring

15. Fruits off the vine

17. Luau paste

18. Ramen ____

20. Place for a pea

21. Cheese, often grated in recipes

25. Tomato paste container

28. Show love for

29. Laetrile can be extracted from these fruits

31. Fruit often eaten dried

32. Found on a billboard

35. They are used as vegetables in Asian cooking (2 words)

Down1. Salad topper

2. Additions to an entrée

4. Simple

5. Toddler

6. Prepared lettuce for a salad

7. Fulfilling nutrient needs

9. Vitality

10. Famous apple picker

14. Recipe direction

15. Decision to move forward

16. Gets ready for picking

17. Letter addition

19. Meadow muncher

22. Plot areas

23. Chocolate-flavored coffee

24. Fixed

25. It has cyclindrical leaves and is used for seasoning

26. Summer month, for short

27. It provides coconuts

30. Decline

33. Medical advisor

34. Because

By Myles Mellor


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Sports Nutrition

Chocolate Milk A Good-for-You Sports Beverage

A perfect sports beverage may be sitting in your refrigerator: milk. Make that fat-free chocolate milk and you’re following the latest sports nutrition guidelines to

enhance muscle recovery after exercise. Just as your car requires gasoline to run smoothly,

exercising muscles need stored carbohydrate, known as glycogen, for energy. Sports nutrition experts agree that sufficient amounts of carbohydrate and protein are required after exercise so muscles can fully recover.

William Lunn, MS, PhD, an assistant professor of exercise science at Southern Connecticut State University, conducted research published last year in Medicine and Science in Sports and Exercise demon-strating the benefit of combining carbohydrate with protein to encourage optimal exercise recovery. Carbohydrate replaces stored glycogen, and the amino acids in protein help repair muscle tissue. In addition, the combination of carbohydrate plus protein can reduce muscle soreness.

Consuming the correct amount of carbohydrate and protein within the first hour after exercise provides the greatest recovery benefits. Aim for consuming 0.5 grams of carbohydrate per pound

of body weight within the first 30 minutes after finishing exercise lasting longer than one hour and 1 gram of protein for every 4 grams of carbohydrate. If you weigh 150 pounds, that works out to 75 grams of carbohydrate and 19 grams of protein.

Optimal exercise recovery strategies also replace fluids and the electrolytes sodium and potassium that are lost in sweat. Plain water can replenish fluid losses, but beverages that contain electrolytes provide more rapid recovery.

WHY CHOCOLATE MILK?According to a 2010 article in the Journal of the International Society of Sports Nutrition, chocolate milk contains the optimum combination of carbo-hydrate and protein to promote muscle recovery. Penny L. Wilson, PhD, RD, CSSD, LD, a dietitian at the Ironman Sports Medicine Institute in Houston, says her clients love drinking chocolate milk after workouts because it helps them feel better and tastes wonderful.

Milk also is a good source of the electrolytes lost in sweat. One cup of chocolate milk contains 152

GOING DEEPERElite athletes who want to maximize their performance can get an edge with a little help from Dan Bernardot, PhD, RD, FACSM, in Advanced Sports Nutrition: Fine-Tune Your Food and Fluid Intake for Optimal Training and Performance, second edition.www.humankinetics.com


milligrams of sodium and 425 milligrams of potas-sium. One cup of the well-known sports beverage Gatorade, which contains carbohydrate but not protein, has 110 milligrams of sodium and 30 milli-grams of potassium. In addition, chocolate milk tastes great, is widely available, is cost-effective, and contains additional important nutrients such as calcium and vitamin D.

Several research studies compared the effects of chocolate milk vs. other sports beverages on recovery in a variety of athletic situations. College athletes love the taste of chocolate milk, notes Katie Jeffrey-Lunn, MS, RD, CSSD, LDN, owner of FitNutrition, LLC in Connecticut. Distance runners, swimmers, and college-age soccer players have all shown improved postexercise recovery when they drink chocolate milk within one hour after finishing exercise.

Julie Upton, MS, RD, CSSD, cofounder of Appe-tite for Health, recommends chocolate milk to adults as well as child athletes, and she relied on it herself when she competed in the Trans Rockies trail race.

WHY NOT WHITE MILK?Exercising muscles crave quickly digested carbo-hydrate to promote refueling, and chocolate milk contains twice the amount of carbohydrate as white milk. Kevin Anello, MEd, RD, LD, ACE, a certified personal trainer at Eat Right Get Fit, LLC, notes that 16 ounces of chocolate milk provides 66 grams of carbohydrate and 16 grams of protein, which is right on target with established guide-lines for optimal exercise recovery. Anello recom-mends chocolate milk to his clients to promote recovery from all types of exercise, including moderate to intense aerobic or anaerobic training as well as athletic events.

Reach for a glass of fat-free chocolate milk after your next exercise session and your muscles and your taste buds will thank you!

— Lynn Grieger, RD, CDE, cPT

This Easter, whether you’re cooking just for your family or entertaining a crowd,

we’ve got your main course covered, with five different flavors for

everyone’s favorite holiday meal. »

APRIL 2012 23

Braised Ham

Serves 15 to 20 or 6 to 10 with a lot of leftovers

One 7- to 10-pound ham, fully cooked

1 large yellow onion, chopped into large dice

2 medium carrots, chopped into large pieces

4 cups low-sodium chicken broth

2 cups white wine

2 bay leaves

1 teaspoon black peppercorns

4 cloves

1 cup Dijon mustard

2 cups unseasoned breadcrumbs

Preheat oven to 350˚F. Place the ham in a large roasting pan. Surround

it with the chopped vegetables. Add the broth, wine, bay leaves, peppercorns, and cloves. Place the pan on the stovetop on medium heat and bring the broth to a simmer. Cover the pan tightly with foil and place in the oven.

Every half hour, pull the pan from the oven, remove the foil carefully (watch for escaping steam, which can be extremely hot), and baste the ham with the braising liquid. Continue until a thermom-eter inserted into the ham reads 140˚ to 150˚F, about 2.5 to 3 hours.

Place the ham on a cutting board and discard the braising liquid. Turn the oven heat up to 450˚ to 500˚F. Use a sharp knife to remove the skin

and any fat on the surface of the meat. Brush the mustard over the surface of the ham and pat the breadcrumbs onto the mustard until the ham is well coated. Put the ham back into the roasting pan and place in the hot oven until the breadcrumbs become toasted. Remove, slice, and serve.

TD&N Nutrient Analysis (based on 20 servings): Calories:

404; Total Fat: 16 g; Saturated Fat: 5 g; Polyunsaturated Fat:

2 g; Monounsaturated Fat: 7 g; Cholesterol: 149 mg; Sodium:

478 mg; Carbohydrates: 12 g; Fiber: 1 g; Protein: 49 g

NOTE: Analysis based on the use of one-third of the liquid for braising.

Ham With Red-Eye Gravy

Serves 4

2 tablespoons canola, grapeseed, or other

neutral oil, divided

4 thick ham slices (approximately 1⁄4-inch thick),

purchased presliced or cut from leftover ham

(It doesn’t matter whether the pieces are

uniform in size or how many, but 4 slices is a

good base.)

Large pinch of all-purpose flour3⁄4 cup black coffee

Pinch of granulated or brown sugar1⁄2 tablespoon butter

Heat a large skillet over medium-high. Add 1 table-spoon of the oil. Place as many ham slices as will fit into the pan. Cook until the ham takes on hints of a brown crust, then flip and cook until the other side gets a similar color. Remove from pan.

When all the slices are cooked, add the remaining oil and sprinkle in the large pinch of flour. Stir the flour until it becomes slightly blonde, but don’t let it burn. Pour in the coffee and add the pinch of sugar. Stir to combine the liquid, butter, and flour and simmer until the gravy becomes thick enough to coat the back of a spoon. Pour over ham and serve.

TD&N Nutrient Analysis (gravy only): Calories: 75;

Total Fat: 8 g; Saturated Fat: 1 g; Polyunsaturated Fat:

2 g; Monounsaturated Fat: 5 g; Cholesterol: 4 mg;

Sodium: 1 mg; Carbohydrates: 0 g; Fiber: 0 g;

Protein: 0 g

Baked Ham With Several Glazes

Serves 15 to 20 or 6 to 10 with a lot of leftovers

One 7- to 10-pound ham, fully cooked

Mustard-Brown Sugar-Honey Glaze1 cup brown sugar1⁄2 cup honey

2 tablespoons dry mustard powder

Honey-Mustard-Orange Glaze3⁄4 cups honey

2 tablespoons dry mustard powder

1 cup orange juice

Freshly ground pepper, to taste

Good pinch of cayenne

Sweet Wine Glaze1⁄2 bottle sherry, port, marsala, or Madeira wine

4 tablespoons salted or unsalted butter, cut into

small pieces

3 cloves

Preheat the oven to 350˚F and place the ham in a large roasting pan. Place the ham in the oven and cook until a thermometer inserted into the ham reads about 90˚F.

For Mustard-Brown Sugar-Honey Glaze, combine the ingredients in a small bowl, and when the ham reaches 90˚F, remove it from oven, brush on a thick coating of the glaze, and return the ham to the oven until it reaches around 140˚ to 150˚F. Allow the ham to rest for 20 minutes. Slice and serve.

For the Honey-Mustard-Orange Glaze, combine all the ingredients in a saucepan and bring to a simmer. Follow the instructions above.

For the Sweet Wine Glaze, pour the wine around the ham in the roasting pan. Add the butter and the cloves. Place the ham in the oven and baste every 30 minutes with the pan liquid until it reaches 140˚ to 150˚F.

Mustard-Brown Sugar-Honey Glaze


53; Total Fat: 0 g; Saturated Fat: 0 g; Polyunsaturated

Fat: 0 g; Monounsaturated Fat: 0 g; Cholesterol: 0 mg;

Sodium: 2 mg; Carbohydrates: 14 g; Fiber: 0 g; Protein: 0 g

Sweet Wine Glaze


42; Total Fat: 2 g; Saturated Fat: 1 g; Polyunsaturated Fat:

0 g; Monounsaturated Fat: 1 g; Cholesterol: 6 mg; Sodium:

226 mg; Carbohydrates: 3 g; Fiber: 0 g; Protein: 0 g

Honey-Mustard-Orange Glaze


44; Total Fat: 0 g; Saturated Fat: 0 g; Polyunsaturated

Fat: 0 g; Monounsaturated Fat: 0 g; Cholesterol: 0 mg;

Sodium: 1 mg; Carbohydrates: 12 g; Fiber: 0 g; Protein: 0 g

CHEF JONATHAN DIXON is the author of Beaten, Seared, and Sauced, an account of his education at The Culinary Institute of America.

Baked Ham With Several Glazes

APRIL 2012 25

T he Exodus of the Children of Israel from slavery in Egypt, recounted every year at the Passover Seder, is a gripping tale. Miraculous deliverance is tinged with the

drama of plagues, parting seas, and a battle of will headed by a cast of characters more exciting than those in a television potboiler and played out in a prescribed ritual using edible delicacies as signposts.

As the old joke goes, most Jewish holidays can be distilled to “They tried to kill us, God saved us, let’s eat.” Passover is the best example—an entire celebration is set around a lavish meal. One key element of the Seder (Hebrew for “order”) is charoset (pronounced with a hard “h” as in “ach” and derived from the Hebrew word for “clay”), typically a mixture of ground fruit and nuts that symbolizes the mortar the Jewish slaves were forced

to make for the building projects of the pharoah. In the 3,300 years since the exodus, with Jews partici-pating in life across the planet, there is a traditional charoset for nearly every country of origin. Here’s a sampling.

Italian Charoset

Makes about 4 cups

1 large firm pear, grated

1 large crisp apple, grated1⁄2 cup finely chopped golden raisins1⁄2 cup finely chopped dried apricots1⁄4 cup finely chopped dates1⁄2 cup coarsely ground hazelnuts1⁄2 teaspoon ground cinnamon1⁄8 teaspoon ground cloves3⁄4 cup sweet (sacramental) grape wine1⁄2 teaspoon minced fresh rosemary (optional)

Combine ingredients in a glass bowl. Cover and refrigerate for several hours before serving.

TD&N Nutrient Analysis (per 1⁄2 cup): Calories:

162; Total Fat: 3 g; Saturated Fat: 0 g; Poly-

unsaturated Fat: 0 g; Monounsaturated Fat:

2 g; Cholesterol: 0 mg; Sodium: 5 mg; Carbohy-

drates: 29 g; Fiber: 3 g; Protein: 2 g

Italian Charoset


Ethiopian Charoset

Makes about 4 cups

11⁄2 cups very finely chopped fresh dates*

1 large green apple, grated

1 tablespoon orange zest

Juice of 2 oranges1⁄4 cup raw, unsalted sunflower

seeds

Combine ingredients in a glass bowl. Cover and refrigerate for several hours before serving.

*These are available in large specialty supermarkets, ethnic grocers, or online.

TD&N Nutrient Analysis

(per 1⁄2 cup): Calories:

137; Total Fat: 2 g; Satu-

rated Fat: 0 g; Polyunsatu-

rated Fat: 1 g; Monounsat-

urated Fat: 0 g; Cholesterol:

0 mg; Sodium: 1 mg; Carbohy-

drates: 31 g; Fiber: 3 g;

Protein: 2 g

Ethiopian Charoset

Classic Eastern European Charoset

Libyan Charoset

Makes about 3 cups

11⁄4 cup chopped dried figs1⁄2 cup blanched almonds1⁄2 cup sweet white wine

3 tablespoons date syrup or

honey

Zest and juice of 1 lemon1⁄4 teaspoon ground cinnamon1⁄8 teaspoon ground

cardamom

3 tablespoons pine nuts

Combine all ingredients except pine nuts in a processor and pulse until coarsely ground. Stir in pine

nuts. Cover and refrigerate for several hours before serving.

TD&N Nutrient Analysis (per 1⁄2 cup):

Calories: 194; Total Fat: 6 g; Satu-

rated Fat: 0 g; Polyunsaturated Fat:

2 g; Monounsaturated Fat: 3 g;

Cholesterol: 0 mg; Sodium: 17 mg;

Carbohydrates: 34 g; Fiber: 6 g;

Protein: 3 g

DAVID FEDER, RD, is a former professional chef and author of The Skinny Carbs Diet. He’s director of S/F/B Communications Group, a cooperative of experts providing food and nutrition communications and consulting for all media.

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Wine & Spirits

Kosher Wine Grows Up

For many years, people of all ages have been drinking sugary kosher wines during Jewish services and on holidays. But today the choices are more appealing.

To cater to a new generation and their sophis-ticated taste buds, kosher wines have matured. They’ve changed so much during recent years that even Jewish grandmothers would approve of their flavor, texture, and bouquet.

The biggest difference between then and now, says Aron Ritter, president and founder of the Kosher Wine Society in New York, is that wineries are focusing on producing good-quality kosher wine. In the past, he explains, they produced sacramental

wines and weren’t concerned about flavor. But during the 1990s, Yarden winery in Israel decided it was time for a change and, according to Ritter, was the first winery in the world to produce quality kosher wines that put some cabernets to shame.

“Take a bottle of cabernet from Israel and put it in a taste test with 20 other cabernets and there’s a good chance it will win best in class,” says Ritter, who explains that Israeli winemakers studied at the world’s finest wineries, returned home, and then started experimenting.

What’s happened to wine making in Israel over the last 30 years, he says, is incredible. “It’s a whole new wine region coming to fruition.”

And that’s not just Ritter’s opinion. In 2009, Yarden earned gold medals for its 2005 Cabernet Sauvi-gnon, 2004 Syrah, and 2006 Yarden Heights wines at the prestigious Challenge Inter-national du Vin, France’s largest international wine competition featuring about 5,000 wines from more than 30 countries.

Likewise, Hagafen Cellars, a kosher winery in Califor-nia’s Napa Valley, has been winning gold medals since 1979. Recently it earned a double gold medal in 2009 for its 2007 Estate Pinot Noir and a gold medal in 2010 for its 2009 Sauvignon Blanc, both awarded at the International Eastern Wine Competitions in Watkins Glen, New York.


But this wine isn’t just for the Passover sedar. Wine lovers of all faiths, says Ritter, need to forget kosher wine’s second-rate past and uncork a bottle of it at their next dinner party.

Kosher wines are now produced not only in Israel but also in the United States, Argentina, France, Italy, and Spain, among other countries. There are probably 250 wineries worldwide that produce more than 1,000 different types of kosher wines. Among these are organic wines, which contain fewer sulfites, preservatives naturally produced during the fermentation process, says Ritter.

Now that there’s a new playing field, where should you begin to explore kosher wine? Since price doesn’t always reflect quality, try sipping your way through the least expensive wines and then work your way up, explains Matt Levy, general manager of KosherWine.com.

There are many kosher wines available for under $10. Levy points to Tierra Salvaje, which he says is a

“good, drinkable” kosher wine from Chile offered in different varieties.

Levy’s favorites aren’t much more expensive than this. He points to Yarden Viognier, a smooth, silky white wine for under $20. Another is Goose Bay Marl-borough, a Chardonnay from New Zealand that offers a citrus, tropical fruit flavor with a hint of vanilla.

But if you’re interested in a totally new experi-ence, try a bottle of Recanati Cabernet Sauvignon. “You open the bottle and immediately the scent of lavender jumps out at you on the nose and you taste it,” Levy says. “There’s so much in this bottle waiting to come out.”

So what are you waiting for? Give kosher wines a second chance, especially since the makeup of the soil in each grape-growing region offers unique dimensions, flavors, and character to the wine.

Now that’s something to celebrate. L’Chaim!

— Carol Patton

Soybean oil isin your kitchen...but, can you find it??

Check the pantry for vegetable oiland read the label – chances are ittis soybean oil.

Quick tips:

Infuse with herbs and garlic and use for dipping bread and dressing pasta

Whisk with seasonings for homemade salad dressings and marinades

Sauté or stir fry veggies

SOYCONNECTION.COM

If beans only wind up on your table baked or refried or in soup and chili, you need a copy of Spilling the Beans: Cooking and Baking With Beans and Grains Everyday. Why everyday? Because beans are nutrition superstars, loaded with protein and fiber while low

in fat and cholesterol. What’s more, they’re inex-pensive and environmentally friendly. A daily dose is good for your heart, but few know enough ways to cook beans to keep them interesting day after day. Now, thanks to Julie Van Rosendaal and Sue Duncan, you can avoid bean burnout. They offer not only delicious recipes for breakfast, lunch, and dinner but even for dessert. You’ll think differently about beans once you’ve tried their Pecan Brown Sugar Shortbread or Chocolate Crisps (both with white beans) or Pumpkin Chocolate Chip Loaf Cake (with red lentils). www.whitecap.ca

Who knew you could prepare Seared Duck Breast With Watercress, Cashews, and Pome-granate in 10 minutes and relax for 20 minutes while it cooks? It’s just one of the delicious dishes that you can have on the table in an hour or less with

little fuss and no stress. Celebrity caterer and cook-book author Sophie Wright shares tips, secrets, and money-saving strategies along with recipes to perk up your evenings, whether you’re pinching your pennies or indulging in the occasional splurge, in Home at 7, Dinner at 8. www.kylebooks.com

It’s little wonder Kelsey Banfield’s blog, The Naptime Chef, struck a chord. The challenge of cooking well while juggling the demands of caring for a baby was appealing to harried new parents who missed good food, and her solution—adapting favorite recipes

Books for Cooks

When you want a classy meal but don’t have all day to make it, turn to Weeknights With Giada: Quick and Simple Recipes to Revamp Dinner. It’s the same style you’d expect from the Food Network chef—fresh flavors and elegant dishes—but created for people with busy schedules. It’s a mix of elegant comfort food (like Filet Mignon With Rosemary and Mushroom Gravy) and fun, family-friendly fare (such as Crêpes With Peanut Butter and Jam). Among the ways she changes up the menu is to bring breakfast to the dinner plate, as with her Eggs Florentine, Fig and Brie Panini, or this tasty, quick sandwich. www.crownpublishing.comwww.clarkstonpotter.com

PHOTO BY AMY NEUNSINGER FROM WEEKNIGHTS WITH GIADA

Crispy Breakfast Pita


so they can be prepared in less time yet remain something to look forward to—resonated with all the moms and dads who thought they had no time to cook. Now, come baby’s naptime, they’re using Banfield’s recipes, collected in her new book, The

Naptime Chef: Fitting Great Food Into Family Life, to whip up exciting meals once again. Forget about the microwave meals and whip up Spinach and Ricotta Ravioli With Balsamic Browned Butter or Pesto Goat Cheese-Stuffed Chicken Breasts. No need to worry that your meals will suffer when your child outgrows naps. You’ll be able to use Banfield’s tips when your children do their homework or go to soccer practice.www.runningpresscooks.com www.thenaptimechef.com

Learn the art of pizza making from an expert. Not just any pizza, but Cauli-flower Pie, Zucchini Pie, Veal Meatball Pie, Poached Artichoke With Walnut Purée Pie. And you won’t even have to knead. If you can’t get to Jim Lahey’s Co, a pizza restaurant in New

York’s Chelsea neighborhood, you can easily get the taste of it at home. Lahey, also founder of the much-lauded Sullivan Street Baker, shares his secrets for great crusts, toppings, and sides in My Pizza: The Easy No-Knead Way to Make Spectacular Pizza at Home. www.crownpublishing.comwww.clarksonpotter.com

You’ve probably got at least one of its pans in your kitchen, but you may do little more than scramble eggs in it. You don’t know what you’re missing. Lodge Manufacturing has been making cast iron

pans for more than a century, and now you can get its tips for cooking with its wares in The Lodge Cast Iron Cookbook: A Treasure of Timeless, Deli-cious Recipes. It’s every-thing you’ve ever wanted to know about cast iron cookware along with recipes

from more than 100 chefs and cookbook authors. Since Lodge is a sponsor of the National Corn-bread Festival, an annual event in South Pittsburg, Tennessee, the home of Lodge, there’s an entire chapter devoted to cornbread. And campers and grillers will love the chapter on al fresco cooking, with recipes for Grilled Margherita Pizza, Campfire Chicken Cacciatore, and Sandy Beach Shrimp Tacos With Mango Salsa.www.oxmoorhouse.com

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Isabel GilliesThe Law & Order: SVU actress shines as an author.

While Isabel Gillies may be best known for her role as Detec-tive Elliot Stabler’s wife on Law & Order: Special Victims

Unit, her energy these days is focused on writing and family. In 2009, her New York Times best seller It Happens Every Day was

published and her follow-up memoir, A Year and Six Seconds: A Love Story, hit bookstores last summer. Both books follow her journey as a wife and mother from the breakup with her former husband, who left her and their two sons for another woman, to her experience of falling in love again after her divorce.

Her latest book concerns her journey from Ohio back to New York to live with her parents in the wake of divorce. “The book is about change,” she says. “In life, what’s so hard to deal with is change.” While living with two parents and two toddlers may sound like a nightmare to many of us, Gillies says, “It was a good place to rebuild and recover.”

The two memoirs were therapeutic for Gillies and gave her the opportunity to share her life lessons with others. Writing gave her perspective on what had happened in her previous marriage. “It’s very easy for the person who’s being left to put on a halo,” she remarks. “If you do that, you’re doing a great disservice to yourself.”

Gillies, who remarried four years ago, lives in Manhattan with her husband, Peter Lattman, her two sons, and her stepdaughter.

TD&N: What’s your favorite way to stay fit?Gillies: Spinning. Spin, spin, spin. I’m a big spinner. I’m obsessed. I took my first class 20 years ago in LA, and I started getting reen-gaged in it last year. It has changed my life. I like the combination of the music and the group. The energy in the room is so intense and joyful. I like group exercise.

TD&N: What five food items are always in your kitchen?

Q & A

PHOTO BY JASON MCDONALD


Gillies: Greek yogurt, almond milk, frozen blueberries, brown rice, and carrots. What you’ll really find in my fridge are a lot of left-overs because I like to cook. I also love black beans and rice and agave syrup.

TD&N: What’s the top guilty food pleasure you couldn’t live without? Gillies: Fried chicken, whether it’s wings or a big fried chicken dinner. Of course, it’s free range! I also love pizza.

TD&N: Who’s been the biggest health/fitness/food inspiration in your life?Gillies: Stacey Griffith, my spinning teacher. And Jamie Oliver—I respect his food point of view. My mother, too. She is 70-something, and she does yoga. She doesn’t believe in denial. Fear of food is bad. You have to treat yourself, but everything in moderation. And my kids inspire me, too, because I have to be

around and healthy and able for them. I also want to look hot for my husband!

TD&N: How do you fight stress or relax at the end of a crazy day?Gillies: I am a huge believer in sleep. I try to get as much sleep as I possibly can at night. I don’t write at night. I try to turn off all media before I go to sleep. I am a Type A go-go-go person, and I’m very possessive of my nighttime peacefulness.”

TD&N: What book is on your nightstand right now?Gillies: I’m reading a galley right now, but I just finished I Married You for Happiness. I always have cookbooks on my nightstand. I’m reading Nigel Slater’s book The Kitchen Diaries.

— Deborah R. Huso

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What I Can’t Live Without

T. Susan ChangNewspaper and NPR contributor T. Susan Chang offers mouthwatering stories and champions child nutrition.

Click images for recipes from A Spoonful of Promises: Stories & Recipes From a Well-Tempered Table »


“As a parent, I think it’s essential to cultivate kids’ enjoyment of food. I would much rather let my kids have vegetables roasted in butter if that’ll make them love them than have

them acquire a taste for a processed daily treat.”

APRIL 2012 37

What’s Old Is New

There’s a nostalgic charm to The Perfect Ingredient: 5 Brilliant Ways to Cook 20 Great Ingre-dients by Bryn Williams with

Kay Plunkett-Hogge. It’s not just Williams’ recollections about growing up on a farm in Wales or his vivid vignettes about picking berries on the hedgerows, some-times coming home empty handed having gorged on the sweet raspberries and other times bringing a bounty of black-berries or blueberries to his Mam or Gran for jams or chutneys. It’s in the photo-graphs by Jonathan Gregson, the often-wistful tone of the text, and the recipes themselves that make readers long for a simpler kind of relationship with food—one they’ve likely never experienced unless they, too, grew up on a farm.

“Writing this book has made me look again at the way we saw the world as a family—nothing was wasted, and when we came across anything useful, we’d use it,” Williams says. “So even if we didn’t want all those berries ourselves, they could be made into a preserve, which we could give to someone and get something back in kind. That’s how it used to work. To some extent, it still done.”

The Perfect Ingredient is a tacit plea for a return to those times, for being able to say that things still work that way to a great extent. The prose is perme-ated by a reverence for food, a respect for the land that yields it, and a joy that arises from sharing it with family. The recipes—for humble ingredients such as beets, potatoes, fish, beef, and apples—seem to bring

you closer to a time when people fended for them-selves, growing their own food and bartering for that which they could not grow or at the very least purchasing it close to home.

Because his emphasis on the pleasures of sharing food with family and the practice of farm-to-table dining comes across as genuine, not merely fashion-able—and, of course, because the dishes are mouth-watering—many copies of The Perfect Ingredient are likely to be equally well used, wearing for decades the stains left by one cook after another.

— KJ

Uncommon Taste

PHOTO BY JONATHAN GREGSON FROM THE PERFECT INGREDIENT

Sole in a Bag With Zucchini

and Black Olives


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Special Promotional Section

Product ShowcaseWhether it’s a food product, dietary supplement, cooking tool, fitness gear,

or even a special event or class designed for health-conscious people, anything related to overall health and well-being fits right into our Product Showcase.

To learn more about each company and its offerings, click the URLs in each showcase entry.

If you “LIKE” what you see in

to discuss articles, share ideas, and interact with other health-conscious consumers like you!

Follow us on and also Twitter

APRIL 2012 39

Our May Issue Blossoms With Healthy Ideas

As April showers give way to May flowers, our May issue will be blooming with nutritious recipes, fitness tips, and seasonal fun that will keep you and yours

fit and happy through the warm-weather season.

In Season: ZucchiniNutritious and delicious,

this versatile squash can be used in main dishes or as an accompaniment to a meal. Our May issue will include

several ideas for how to use them, including a carpaccio and a crostini as well as in combinations with lemon

and radishes.

‘Golden’ Mother’s Day Menu

Make a healthy and sumptuous meal for the special mom in your life with recipes from

Golden Door Spa’s executive chef Curtis Cooke, including Chilled Avocado Soup and Sweet Corn

and Warm Baby Beet Salad With Goat Cheese and Almonds.

Cooking for HealthCertain oils add unique flavor to your cooking while offering important health benefits. In addition to oil derived from olives, this article puts the

spotlight on oils from healthful sources such as roasted almonds,

avocados, and hemp and includes recipes for Steak With

Herb Sauce and a Hemp-Pepita-Tomatillo Dip.

Coming Next Issue

What’s Cooking Online

What’s in Your Orange Juice?

dn 4 2012 downmagaz.ws

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