Domaine Saint Nicolas

For Thierry Michon, the gregarious force behind one of the Loire’s best-kept secrets, Domaine Saint Nicolas, it’s all about the soil. Working on schist and silex a stone’s throw away from the Atlantic, Thierry is the prophet of biodynamics in this tiny viticultural area. His vineyards never see a non-organic product. He has slowly purchased buffer zones all around his property to prevent chemical products from other winemakers from seeping into his parcels. For him, biodynamics isn’t a pragmatic consideration, it’s a religion. Domaine Saint Nicolas sits at the extreme southern end of the Loire delta, just south of Muscadet, but there is no Melon de Bourgogne planted here. Instead, Thierry works old vines of Chenin Blanc, Chardonnay, Groslot, Pinot Noir, Negrette, and Cabernet Franc. One of the few in the area to age in barrel, Thierry’s years of hard work are starting to pay off. For years he worked all week in the vines and then took off on Friday afternoons for the 5 hour drive to Paris. From the back of his truck he sold his wines to restaurants and small shops. When the wines starting showing up on the lists of Guy Savoy, Taillevent, and Arpège, people starting paying attention. Now he is a leader of the biodynamics movement in France, the defender of his little appellation, and one of France’s most respected winemakers. These are soulful wines of amazing purity.

Fièfs Vendéens “Les Clous”

The wine that put Thierry on the map. 80% Chenin Blanc, 15% Chardonnay, 5% Groslot Gris. Aged in tank (80%) and barrel (20%) for 8 months before release.

Fièfs Vendéens Chenin Blanc

Pure Chenin Blanc from old vines near the sea planted on pink slate and quartz. Aged in large wood tanks for 12 months.

Fièfs Vendéens Pinot Noir

Pinot Noir from pink slate soils near the sea. Aged in large wood tanks for 12 months.

Fièfs Vendéens Cabernet Franc

Dark, rich, and salty Cabernet Franc from vines near the Atlantic Ocean. Aged in large wood tanks for 12 months.

Fièfs Vendéens “Cuvée Jacques”

Perhaps the only pure Pinot Noir you will ever taste that smells like the sea. From 25-35 year old vines, Jacques is aged for 18 months before release. Lovely.

About Fiefs Vendéens

Situated in the extreme southern Loire delta about an hour south of Muscadet, the Fiefs Vendéens sits just a couple of kilometers from the Atlantic Ocean. This oceanic influence exerts itself in many ways. Winds coming off the ocean keep the vines pushed down, such that harvesting at St. Nicolas is carried out by crawling through the vines, not walking. The wines often pick up a delicious salinity from these parcels with views on the ocean. This is terroir at its best. The Fiefs Vendéens is made up of four zones, based around 4 villages, all of which have the right to put the name of the village on the label. Saint Nicolas is based in Brem, a zone made up primarily of schist and silex, ideal for the creation of mineral-rich Chenin and pristine Pinot Noir. The zone is still classified as a VDQS and has applied for full AOC status. The other three, Vix, Mareuil, and Pissotte are combinations of clay and silex. Schist is dominant at Saint Nicolas and covers the surface of the vineyards. Although the vines are quite close to the Atlantic, there is very little sand in the soil.