dominique ansel: the secret recipes
TRANSCRIPT
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CONTENTS
FOREWORDBYDANIELBOULUDINTRODUCTION
1TIMEISANINGREDIENTTHECANNELÉTESTTHEBRIEFLIFEOFTHEMADELEINELONGLIVETHEMACARONMEMORIESWITHINACOOKIE
2BEYONDTHECOMFORTZONETHEPAVLOVAWEAKSPOTINSPIREDBYAPEEPCRACKINGTHECHOCOLATEEGGSAVINGCEREALFORCHRISTMAS
3DON’TLISTENTRUSTTHEDKABREAKINGTHESOUFFLÉLAWSTHEREALCRONUT™LESSONETERNALLYVANILLA
4WHAT’SINANAME?PERFECTINGALITTLEEGGSANDWICHDRESSUPWITHTHERELIGIEUSEANEWYORKPASTRYME,MINIME,ANDMERINGUES
5CREATEANDRE-CREATETHECHEESECAKE’SFORGOTTENHERITAGESWITCHINGOUTHAMFORJAMÓNTHEAPPLETARTOFMYEYEONEBITEOFCHOUQUETTE
6EVERYTHINGBUTTHEFLAVORTHESUNFLOWERTARTILLUSIONAS’MOREFORALLSEASONSASWEETPOTATOSUBSTITUTEBAKINGPIEINALASKAWHATPURPLETASTESLIKETHEBREAKABLEARLETTE
7NEVERRUNOUTOFIDEASGINGERBREADNEEDNOTBEHOUSESATARTFROMADREAMTHEMARSHMALLOW’SDISGUISEABESPOKELIMETART
RECIPES
ATOASTBEFOREBAKING
BEGINNERRECIPES
HOTCHOCOLATECHOCOLATEPECANCOOKIESMINIMADELEINESMINIME’SPOPCORNCHOUQUETTESMARSHMALLOWCHICKSVANILLAICECREAMAPPLETARTTATINTHEPURPLETART
INTERMEDIATERECIPES
CANNELÉDEBORDEAUXVANILLARELIGIEUSECOTTON-SOFTCHEESECAKEPARIS–NEWYORKPERFECTLITTLEEGGSANDWICHBLACKANDBLUEPAVLOVA
PINKCHAMPAGNEMACARONSAPPLEMARSHMALLOWSUNFLOWERTARTCHRISTMASMORNINGCEREAL“LIMEMEUP”TARTFROZENS’MORESARLETTE
ADVANCEDRECIPES
CHOCOLATECAVIARTARTTHEANGRYEGGDOMINIQUE’SKOUIGNAMANNS(DKA)MAGICSOUFFLÉTHEAT-HOMECRONUT™PASTRYIBÉRICOANDMAHÓNCROISSANSWEETPOTATOMONTBLANCGINGERBREADPINECONEBAKEDALASKA
ADDITIONALTECHNIQUES
COOKINGCUSTARDPÂTEÀCHOUXPIPINGTEMPERINGCHOCOLATELAMINATION
ACKNOWLEDGMENTSABOUTDOMINIQUEANSELINDEX
TOA.FROMACASEOFCHERRIESTOALIFEOFCHEERING,
YOUINSPIREMEEVERYDAY.D.
FOREWORD
IamproudtocontributetoDominique’s firstbook,notonlyasa formeremployerandlongtimefriend,but,moreimportant,becauseIliketothinkwebothshareaspecialkinshipasdreamers.Greatchefsdon’task“Why?”They ask “Why not?” They aren’t afraid of a challenge and they aren’tafraidtobreaktherules.Buttheyalsohavethetechnicaltrainingnecessaryto playwith recipeswhile intuitively knowingwhich crucial steps shouldnot be sacrificed. Dominique has demonstrated—and will continue todemonstrate—theseexceptionalqualities.
While he was the pastry chef at Daniel, Dominique challenged us toexperiment more. He often tapped into our savory pantry or looked toother cultures for inspiration.Hewas the first to introduce to the pastrymenu elements like basil seeds, olive oil powder, horchata ice cream, andshisosorbet.HistalentwasinreachingafarforsomethingexcitingandthenworkinguntilitmadesensewithinourdeterminedlyFrenchmenu.
He approached classic American flavors with the naive curiosity of astudentinhisfirstcookingclass.Whydothecombinationsofpeanutbutterandchocolate—orKeylimeandgrahamcracker—getpeoplesoexcited?
However,healsorespectedcertainrecipesandkeptthemastheywere.Ourmagicalmadeleine,forexample:thatsimplycannotchange,becauseithasbecomesoiconictoourcustomers,whohavecommitteditstasteandtexturetomemory.
IrememberwhenDominiquewasreadytobranchoutonhisown.Asachef-owner,Ialwaysfocusonourownprogram,butIstronglysupportthetalent ofmy teammembers. Iwas happy to see that he couldmake hisdreamscometrueonhisown.Likeallofourformerpastrychefs,hehasleftanimprintthatwillberemembered.
When Dominique opened his pastry shop in SoHo, he jumped frommanaging a ten-item pastry menu with one service to an all-day menuconsisting of viennoiseries, pastries, desserts, cookies, candies, sandwiches,andmore.His passion for constant improvement is palpable,whether it’sontheclassicsthathehaspracticedsincehisveryfirst jobinParis,oronthe creationshediscoveredwhileonhis global travels. I ampleased that
DominiquehascontinuedtorepresenttheDNAofFrenchpatisseriewhileembracingatrueNewYorkjenesaisquoi.ItemsonhismenusuchastheParis–NewYork,whichhasthetextureofaParis-BrestandthetasteofaSnickersbar,isagreatexampleofahybridfromhisimagination.
Ihadnodoubtthathewouldexcelandbecomethesensationthatheistoday,althoughperhapsnotevenIcouldhaveanticipatedthemediafrenzythatensuedovertheCronut™pastry!AslongasIcanhaveaseatonhiscozypatiotoenjoyhislatestcreationwithanespresso,I’llbehappy.Ihopethat as you read this book, you will be inspired to create not just therecipeswithin,butalsotothinkcreativelyinyourownday-to-daybakingadventures,justasDominiquewouldhaveyoudo.
—DANIELBOULUD,CHEF-OWNER,RESTAURANTDANIEL,NEWYORKCITY
INTRODUCTION
Iwasthirty-fouryearsoldwhenIopenedmyownbakery,butbythenIhad alreadybeenworking in akitchen formore thanhalfmy life. I firstwalkedintoaprofessionalkitchenattheageofsixteen,andIdon’tthinkIcanimagineadaywhenIwouldeverleave.Iwastaughttocooktheold-fashionedway.Within the ranksof theFrenchkitchenbrigade, your jobwassimple:
1.Lookcloselyatwhatyourchefisdoing.2.Copyitasexactlyasyoucan.3.Repeathundredsoftimes.
Itfeltliketracingthelettersofsomeoneelse’shandwriting,untilyounolonger remembered your own. And while this method trains highlyproficientcooks,itdoesn’tnurtureinnovators.
Something’swrongwith the system.Cooks should be taught not onlyhowtoreplicate,butalsohowto innovate.Learninghowtoperformasettask is certainly easier than finding a whole new way to interpret it.Inspirationcan’tbemeasuredonascale.Passioncan’tbechoppeduponacuttingboardor added to a recipe—like seasoning—atwill.But all thesefactorsmustbepresenttoproducesomethingtrulygroundbreaking.
Peopleoftenaskme if Ikeepmy recipesunder lockandkey.On thecontrary,theyareprintedoutandkeptinabluefolderinthekitchenforalltoaccess.Recipesarejustpiecesofpaper.Noratioofingredientsorlistofinstructionscouldeverbethekeytosuccess.Therealsecretsarehiddeninthestoriesbehindeachcreation.Andthat’swhatIwillsharewithyouinthisbook.
This is theway I teach theyoungpastrychefswhocome throughmykitchenhowtonotjustcook,buthowtocreate.
Ihavedividedthisbookintotwosections.Inthefirst,IrevealwhatI’velearned as I crafted some of my favorite pastries. These lessons can beapplied to all areas of life. A bite-size cake can teach you about thepreciousnessof time.Atartcanshowyouhowtodream.Ascoopof ice
cream can renew your appreciation of simplicity. The second half of thebookholdstherecipestosomeofmymostsought-aftercreations.This iswhereyouhaveachance togetyourhandsdirty, soyoucan followmyfootstepsinyourkitchen.Andmyhopeisthatsomedayyouwillgoontoexplorenewgroundofyourown.
Happybaking,eating,and—mostofall—creating!
1
TIMEISANINGREDIENT
Weeatthousandsofmealsinourlifetimes,butjustafractionofthem are impactful enough to endure in our memory. Andsometimes eating, much like breathing, becomes nothing morethanasecondaryaction.Repetitionofanyactiondullsthesensesover time, but imagine if you could hit reset and treat eachmoment as the first. Even themost ordinary things can unlockthemostprofoundinspirations.
Forme,myfirstrealmemoryoffoodisasimpleone:thewarmthofthebaguettebetweenmylegsasmydaddrovehomefromtheneighborhoodbakery;thesmelloftheyeastfillingthecar;thecrinkleofthewaxpaperbag;andthecrunchofthecrustasIwrestledoffpieceafterpiece,starting
from the heel, and devoured them with delight. That baguette did notsurvivelongenoughtomakeittothefamilydiningtable.Thevividnessofthismemorylingersinmymindlikeascenefromadream.
Just what about this baguette—from a no-name bakery, made by thehands of an unknownbaker—made it stand out from all the othermoreextravagantmeals I’ve had? I struggled to find the answer for years, andthenrealizeditwasallabouttiming.Somuchoffoodandgoodcookingisjust that: paying attention to the invisible yet indispensable ingredient oftime. Just as every flower blooms until its peak right before the blossomwilts, all foods—in fact, all creations—have that perfectmoment aswell.Andwhen the timing is right, a simple thing canbecome transformative.Pureandimmaculate,itcannourishnotonlythesenses,butalsothesoul.
Preparing a great pastry is always a rush or a wait for that perfectmoment.
Every crusty, custardy, sweet cannelé resists the shortcuts cooks try touseinmakingthem.Thereisnocheatingwhenitcomestoacannelé,andinthesepagesyou’lllearnwhy.I’lltalkaboutmadeleinesandhowthey’resimilartocherryblossomsinthebeautyandthebrevityoftheirshelflife.Just five minutes out of the oven, and they are a completely differentproduct.Theoppositeholds true for themacaron, and I explainwhy it’soneof the itemsnotmeant tobeeatenfresh.Finally, I sharemystoryofwhy I’veneverhadadecentchocolatechipcookie inFrance,andwhy Ithinkmomentsintimehaveeverythingtodowiththat.
Weliveinaworldwhereeverycreationstrivestobebothinstantaneousand eternal. To respect time as the supreme ingredient is a battle ofbreaking habits and changing perceptions. Nobody likes to wait; nobodylikes to rush. But when you treat time as an ingredient, it changeseverything.
THECANNELÉTEST
Thereisalwaysthetemptationto“cheat.”Inschoolonatest,atworkonaproject,andinthekitchen.Weallwanttofast-forwardtothegoodparts.
So you start to thinkofwhat you can dowithout.Youdon’thave togently stir milk with a wooden spoon as it boils; leaving it there prettymuchdoesthetrick.Andwhileeggsworkwellincertainrecipesatroomtemperature,youdon’twanttowaithoursforthemtogetthere.WhenIfirstenteredmyculinarytraining,aninstructortoldme,“Takingshortcutsisnotcheating.It’sgettingtothesamedestination,butfaster.”Thatyear,Idiscovered new techniques, improved my efficiency, and found fastermethods to make almost everything . . . until I tried my hand at thecannelé.
A pastry from Bordeaux, the cannelé is not much for looks. On theoutside, there’sadark,hardshell thatcanbemistaken forburnt.But forthosewhobiteintothecrunchyexterior,thereistheilluminatingrewardofatender,flan-likecore,richwiththescentofvanillaandrum.Toachievethosedelicatelybalancedresults, there isonlyoneroad,andnoshortcuts.Thecannelédemandsyourtime;itmagnifiesyourmistakes.
The first decision to make is what type of mold to purchase. Thetraditionalcoppermoldsfromwhichthecannelégetsitssignatureshapearesmall, cylindrical, and striated. They must first be seasoned by brushingmeltedbeeswaxintheinteriorandheatingeachmoldintheovenfourorfive times, until themetal pores have absorbed thewax, a process you’llneed to repeatoneor two times after everywash toprevent yourbatterfromsticking.Ifyoutryaneasieroption,likeanonsticksiliconemold,youwill lose thatcrunchy,caramelizedexterior,and insteadtheresultwillbespongyandsoft.Don’tdoit—staythecourse.
When it comes to the point ofmaking the batter—a relatively simplerecipesimilartothatforacrêpe—youmustmixslowly.Rushtheprocessandyou’llendupwithlargebubbles inyourcustardinsteadofthesmall,effervescent ones you should be achieving for that perfect texture. Andwhatawaitsyouaroundthebendisanotherendurancetest:atwenty-four-hourwait for thegluten in thebatter to rest, ensuring that your cannelé
risesstraightupinthemoldwhenyoubakeit.Trytocheatthesystemandyou’llgetamisshapencanneléfullofholes.
Youaren’tevendonewhenyouputthecanneléintheoven.Thesheetpanonwhichthemoldrestsneedstoberotatedeveryfifteenminutesorsoasthecannelébakes.Evennow,soclosetothefinishline,theproductwillsinklikeasouffléwithoutcarefulattention.
A cannelé isn’t just a pastry; it is proof of the cook’s patience anddedication.Somecreationsdemandeverythingyouhaveanddon’tdignifyanythinglessthanyourbesteffortswiththeperfectoutcome.Wehaveallbeentemptedbyaneasierpath.Perhapsnoonesawtheplaceswherewecut the corners, or caught us brushing certain things under the rug. Butthat’sthedifferencebetweenthosepiecesofworkandamasterpiece.Thesame lessonapplies to themostchallenging tasksdowntoa simplemeal.Myadvicewouldbe to skip the flashydinner for two thenext timeyouwant to show you care—nothing says “I love you” like a single perfectcannelé.
THEBRIEFLIFEOFTHEMADELEINE
Stop thinkingofadessert as just anobject, and start seeing it as a livingthing.Andthen,trytoreallybelieveit.
ThewayIseeit,thefirsttimeingredientstouchmyhands,itsetsoffaspark of life that runs through the dish I’m working on. If the SistineChapelwerereinterpretedbythemindofacook,Godwouldbewearingatoqueandhis fingerwouldbereachingout forakitchen tool.We’veallfelt it—there’s an inherent energy of life behind every dish. Leftovercasserolesdeepenincharacter.Herbswilt,thenblossomwhentheyhitthehotsurfaceofmeat,unlockingtheirinnerfragrance.Acartonoficecreamsitting at room temperature starts to soften and temper as if awakeningfromhibernation. Food changes andgrows; it lives and then it also dies.And for the fleeting and forever young madeleine, death comes all toosoon.
Fresh out of the oven, these small, scallop-shaped cakes shine in amomentary glory. A slightly crispy edge givesway to a golden, etherealcenterthatreleasesjustatinypuffofsteaminyourmouth,asifexhalingitslastbreath.
Butjustfiveminutesafteryourintroduction,everythingstartstochange.Theonce-pillowybitesbecomeasdenseaspebbles.Thecrispyedgesturnstickyandstale.Andthe lightdustingofconfectioners’ sugar fades intoagrayish hue as it soaks into the crumb. Dull and lackluster, the latemadeleinesitsinfrontofyouhardenedanddry—theveryembodimentofwhatapastrycorpsewouldlooklike.Blinkandyou’llmissitatitsbest.
Just one experience of the short and precious life of the madeleineshould teachyou that it’snotonlyabout thecooking,butalsoabout theeating.When youmake something to be enjoyed, the creation is just asmuchaboutthepersononthereceivingendastheonewhoproducedit.Themadeleinedemandsthatbothchefandtasterstoptheirplans,standbytheoven,andwait.ItremindsmeofthetimeIwokeuptoseethesunrise.Stumblingaroundinthedarknessandstaringattheviolet-bluetwilightforlong, sleepy moments until those gratifying few minutes when the sunpeekedoutfromthehorizon.It’soneofnature’sbestartworksandcannotbecapturedbyanymuseum.Theonlyoptionistowait.
Thisiseasiersaidthandone.Everyoneunderstandsthegenerallogicofa“lifespan”forfood,butwhenyouaskthemtoreallybelieve,torespectit,andtowait,itbecomesadifferentstory.Weallhaveplans;weallneedtobe somewhere. And sometimes it seems easy to buy a prepackagedmadeleinerichwithgreasybutterthathelpskeepitaliveforlongerandallbutwipesoutitstruenature.
Imakemymadeleines toorder. Idon’tpipe themorbake themuntilsomeone is standing there waiting for them. And as they stand there,rushedandfrustratedathavingtocompromisetheirlifeandtheirscheduleforapastry,theyoftenaskmewhytheyshouldbotherwaiting.
“Quitesimply,”Ianswer,“itisamatteroflifeanddeath.”
“FOODCHANGESANDGROWS;ITLIVESANDTHENITALSODIES.ANDFORTHEFLEETINGANDFOREVERYOUNGMADELEINE,DEATHCOMESALLTOOSOON.”
LONGLIVETHEMACARON
Noonepaidmuchattentionto the threeoldcooksatFauchon,myalmamaterandtheplacewhereI“graduated”tobecomeaworkingpastrycook.Somecouldn’ttellthemapart:eachonesportedthesamebushymustache,roundbelly,andgrayinghair.Decadesagotheywereyoungboys,asIwaswhenIfirstenteredthekitchensofthispastryinstitution.Butnowintheirfifties, theyhad lost their youthful competitiveness andquietly faded intothe background like the walls or shelves. These men were my secretweapon.
Whenever I came across a problem I couldn’t solve, one of themseemedtohavetheanswer.Theycouldn’texplaintheirreasoninginwords,buttheirhandsknewthewaytomanipulateingredientsuntiltheyobeyed.Oneofthem,Didier,hadthesoletaskofmakingmacarons.TheseFrenchalmondmeringuecookiesconsumed ten to twelvehoursofhisdayashemixedthebatter,thenpipedandfilledhundredsoftheminthebasementkitchenoftheFauchonflagshiponthePlacedelaMadeleineinParis.
Upstairsinthebrightlylitshop,perfumedladiesgiggledastheypointedtheirmanicured fingersathis jewel-likework, thecolorsasvividas theirlipsticks.Thatfirstbitewasalwaysanexperience:agossamer-thinshellthatcrunchedslightlywith thegentlepressureofyour teeth,which then sankintoamoist,tendercenterwithavibrantburstofflavor.“Freshhandmademacaronsarethelatesttreat,”oneladygushedwithdelight.
Andshewascorrectonallbutonepoint.Yousee,well-mademacaronsarenotactually“fresh.”Justoutoftheoven,themacaronshellsareinfactdryandbrittleontheedges.Andwhilemostpastriesareattheirbestfreshandjustbaked,themacaronisacounterexample.
Theprocessofmakingapropermacaroninvolvesacrucialstepinwhichitmustsitintherefrigeratorforatleastadaytoabsorbthehumidityfromthesurroundingairaswellasmoisturefromthefilling.It’sthistemperingprocess that rehydrates and revives it to give a great macaron itsincomparabletexture.Inasense,amacaronmust“livealittle”andcomeintoitsfullcharacterwithtime.
Themacaron is a latedeveloper in aworldobsessedwith freshness asthe ideal. But like the cook whose hands probably touched every well-
lovedFauchonmacaroninParisfordecades,olderdoesn’tnecessarilymeanlesser.
Yearslater,Fauchonmoveditsproductionoperationstoalargerfacilityawayfromthestore.Didiermovedwithit.Thecompanyinvestedmoneyinto a high-speedmacaron-pipingmachine,which he learned to operate.ButIswearthatDidiercouldpipejustasfastorevenfasterbyhand.Onhis own, he produced more than two or three times the number ofmacaronsthandidmenhalfhisage,andhistenureatFauchonimpressivelyoutlastedmanyof itsgreatestpastrychefs. Itdidn’t alwayscomeeasy forDidier,I’msure.Butwithtimecamemastery.
When I rose up the ranks far enough to manage my own team atFauchon,Isawtheyoungapprenticesbeneathmepanicinfrustrationwhentheirhandshadn’tdevelopedthedexteritytodowhattheywereinstructed.Thequalityof their initialworkwas somethingDidierwould’ve frownedupon, but it was also the story ofDidier that became themotivation tokeepthemtrying.
“AMACARONMUST‘LIVEALITTLE’ANDCOMEINTOITSFULLCHARACTERWITHTIME.”
MEMORIESWITHINACOOKIE
Thenewspaperheadlinecaughtmyeye:AMERICA’SFAVORITEDESSERTISTHE
COOKIE.Below,aparagraphreportedthatsevenoutoftenAmericanschosethecookieastheirfavoritebakedgood,with10percentclaimingtheyateacookieeverysingleday.SittingthereinmytinyapartmentinFranceattheage of twenty-five, Iwas baffled by these statistics. I had never been toAmerica,andIhadyettotasteacookieIactuallyliked.
WhenIwasgrowingup,cookieswereoneoftheleastpopularitemsinmy neighborhood bakery. Childrenwouldmuch prefer a croissant or anéclairoveranycookie,whichsatonthebackshelvesanddriedoutasthedaypassed.Yetsomehow,anoceanaway,therewasanentirenationthatsharedagenuineandunanimousloveforthisonetriumphantproduct.NosinglepastryinFranceunitesthepeopleinthesameway.
The first time I ever visited theUnited States, I tried every cookie Icould find in the stores.Theydidn’t taste that different from theones inFrance,Ithought.Nothingexoticoroutoftheordinary.ButIwatchedtheeyesoflocalslightupwithpassionwhenaskedthesimplequestion:What’syourfavoritecookie?
Their answers were always different. Thick or thin, crispy or chewy,withorwithoutnuts—everyonedefendedtheirchoicesvehemently.Someliked chocolate chip, some preferred oatmeal raisin. I learned what asnickerdoodlewas.Everyoneagreed they lovedcookies,butdisagreedonwhat made a good cookie. “I make my cookies with milk and darkchocolate chips,”oneperson toldme. “Usebrown sugar,” came anothertip.“Iliketousemolassesformine,”someoneadded.
Andthen—abreakthrough.Irealizedeveryonewasspeakingtomefromthe perspective of a cook, not a customer. The cookies in their mindsweren’t theonestheypurchased,buttheonestheymadethemselves.Formany of these people, cookies were the very first thing they baked aschildren. They remembered emptying the chocolate chips into the bowl,rolling small balls of dough, and watching them spread and bake in theoven. Itwas an after-school pastime or aweekend activity. Itwas for aloved one as a gift, or a tradition during the holidays. And everyonepinpointedasthegreatestsatisfactionthatfinalrevealfromtheoven,when
they could bite into a warm, just-baked cookie. These people were nolongermerelytastingtheflavors;theyweretastingamomentintime.
Time is not simply a measurement of minutes and hours, but also akeeper of experiences. Even people who have very different tastes feelunitedbytherolesthatfoodplaysintheirlives.Andtrulygreatcreationstransport us to another time bymaking a connection that transcends thepresent.Thecookieistheultimatetimetraveler.
The first time I actually enjoyed a cookiewaswhen Imade itmyselffromscratchwithmysouschefinthekitchensoftheNewYorkrestaurantDanielduringmyfirst fewyears there.She,ofcourse,hadmade itmanytimesgrowingupintheUnitedStates.Itwaslateatnightandwehadjustfinishedanespecially toughday.Wepouredchocolatechips intoabowl,werolledthedoughintoroundballsandflattenedthemslightly,andthenwewaited by the oven for them to bake.The ones thatwemadewerechocolaty, flourless, slightlycrispyontheedges likethecornerpieceofabrownie, and extramoist, almost cake-like in the center. Itwas the firstcookiethatwasmine.
Today, that’s the type of cookie Imake. It’s a recipe that youmightwanttoalterandadapttoyourowntastes.Butit’swhatIconsidertobethebestcookie,forthesamereasonseveryoneelsehastheirownfavorites.Andwe’reallabsolutelyright.
“TRULYGREATCREATIONSTRANSPORTUSTOANOTHERTIMEBYMAKINGACONNECTIONTHATTRANSCENDSTHEPRESENT.THECOOKIEISTHEULTIMATETIMETRAVELER.”
2
BEYONDTHECOMFORTZONE
Firstsarealwaysuncomfortable.A first taste,a first look,a firstattempt—despite the promise of something new just beyond—eachisapproachedwithapauseandthenanuncertainfirststep.Andformanyofus,no“first”causesmoreanxietythanthefirstdayofwork.
There are two first days I’ll always remember. September 1,1999, was my first day of work at Fauchon. I’ll never forget
stumbling throughthe legendaryParisianpastryhouse’smazeofhallwaysanddoorsuntilIfoundtheproductionkitchen.
Eightyearslater,IwalkedintotherestaurantDanielinNewYorkwiththesameuncertainfootsteps.
It’s amazing how similar the two days were. In both cases, I wasimmediately handed my uniform. At Fauchon it was the signature blackcottonwithhot-pinkstitching,whichIworealongwithagroupofeagerguyswhowereallcompetingforjustonefull-timeposition.AtDaniel, itwaswhite, crisply ironed, and hadmy name stitched onto the pocket ingolden-bronzethread.AnddespitetheyearsthatseparatedmyfirstdaysinParis with those in New York, where I entered as the executive pastrychef,Istillfeltlikeafishoutofwater.
Iwasn’tworriedaboutmytechnicalskillsorabilitytomanageakitchenteam,but I quickly realized thatNewYorkworkedby adifferent setofrules. Here, the chef was no longer king; instead, every customer whocameinthedoorheldahighersovereignty.Substitutions,specialrequests,andaccommodationswerenottheexceptionherebutthenorm.OverthenextsixyearsatDaniel,Ilearnedoneimportantlesson:atrulyappreciatedcreationisn’tmadeforthecreator,butfortheaudiencetoenjoy.
This chapter is aboutmy trek beyondmy comfort zone. I confessmyhatredofworkingwithmeringuebut sharehowconfronting the pavlovataughtmetofindjoyingreatobstacles.Oneparticularchocolatecreationredefinedmyconceptofbeautyanddestruction,andItellthatstory,too.Italk about how my journey to make marshmallow chicks revealed thedifficultiesofpickingupanewtraditionandofbridgingthegapbetweenwhat may seem incompatible at first glance. And finally, I explore theterritoryofcreatingfoodthatmusttravelandhowIovercameitwithmyownmixofcereal.
Creativity requires effort. It is always a strain, a leap beyond theperipheryofcomfort.Withthesenewrecipes,bepreparedtofeelasIdid—uncomfortable.Pastryisnotanintuitivestudy;whenyouhaven’tworkedwithsimilartoolsinthesamesteps,there’sanaturalclumsiness.Butwhenthe day arrives that you feel completely at ease with the recipes withinthese pages, promiseme that youwillmoveon to another book, and inthatprocessbecomeanevenbettercook.
BytheendofJanuary2000,ImanagedtobeatouttwentyorsoothercooksforonehighlycovetedpositionatFauchon.Later,IfiguredthatifIcould do that, I would be up for the challenge that awaited me in theStates,where Iwould oversee the dessertmenu atDaniel, having at thetimenever created aplateddessert for a restaurant—averydifferent skillset from bakery desserts—in my life. At my formal inauguration, chefDanielBouludstoodnexttomeatthemanager’smeetingandintroducedme to the entire team.“Dominique,”he said, “welcome toAmerica.” Itwas a new job, a new country, and a newer world than I had everimaginedI’dexperience.Butthat’sthewholepointnow,isn’tit?
THEPAVLOVAWEAKSPOT
Hereisasecret:Ihatemeringues.Somethingabout thecrunchas theycrumbleunder thepressureofmy
fork is like nails screeching across a chalkboard.Their fragile, light-as-airdemeanor, which is always threatening to crack, has been my culinarykryptonite. Every hair onmy forearms stands up in absolute rejection ofthesedried-outsugaredeggwhites.
I can’t explain why. But I firmly believe that anyone who walks farenough down the avenues of their craft eventually stumbles upon theirstrengths as well as their weaknesses. There are harmonies and discords,lovesandhates.Youhavetostartcookingtodiscoverthem.
Coldhandsmakeworkingwithdoughasmootherprocess,allowingyoutolineyourtartshellsorlaminatecroissantswithease,withoutmeltingthebutter or fat within. Dexterous fingers are perfect for adding those finalflourishes of fruit and décor to a pastry. And sensitive skin can detecttemperatures of cooling chocolate with more precision during thetemperingprocess.Everyonehastheirownknackthatreveals itself inthebeginningstagesoftheirlearningprocess.It’sthethingsthatgoagainstournatural faculties that canblockourability tobe truecreators.Whenyoufindoutwhatthoseareforyou,thefirststepistoconfess.
Withoutrealizing it, Ihadalwaysrefrained fromservingmeringuesonmymenus.Comparedtomoussesoricecreams,itwasn’tthemostpopularitemandsoyearspassedbeforeIpaidmuchattentionto it.That is,untilthe gluten-free revolution. With so many customers cutting wheat fromtheirdiet,meringuehadthepotentialtobecomeakeyplayerinthepastryworld. And one summer, I experienced a deluge of requests for thepavlova, a simple dessert composed from a trifecta of ingredients: fruit,cream,andmeringue.
Agorgeouspavlovaisasubtleplayoftexture.Asthemoisturefromthecream soaks into themeringue, it adds a slight chewiness to its core andaccentuatesthecrispinessofitsshell.Ittookweekstocalibratethatperfectmeringueshell,attimeshollowingoutthecenterforanevenmoredelicateproduct.Everydayofthatsummer,Ihandmadeandassembledhundredsofpavlovas, and every time a powdery shell scraped against the surface of
another,shiversrandownmyspine.Theprocessbatteredandbruisedmysenses—and funny enough, it never got better. I hate working withmeringuetothisday.Butagoodfightisneveraneasyone.
ThepavlovabecameanitemthatIwouldregularlykeeponmymenu.The name of my very first pavlova was the Black and Blue. Casualobserversassumeitsmonikerisderivedfromtheblackberriesencasedinsidetheblueberrymeringue.But intruth,Iwas inspiredbythebeatingthatItooktofinishit.Inameditafterthestruggle:takingpunches,andstandingbackup.
INSPIREDBYAPEEP
There’sagameI’vebeenplayingforyears:I’llnameaspecificholidayandasksomeonetosaythefirst ingredientthatcomestomind.It’s incrediblehow there’s almost a Pavlovian link between special occasions and food.Before long, people begin to describe entire menus. Christmas is almostalways cinnamon, a warm spice that morphs into imaginary gingerbread,cookies, and pies. New Year’s? I can bet you it’s Champagne, perhapsinfused into macerated ripe strawberries. And Easter, for as long as Iremembered,waschocolate.
Growing up in France, I remember the shelves of local chocolatiersstackedwith chocolate eggs every Easter. It is amemory that I thoughtevery kid shared. But when I asked Americans to describe their Eastermemories, rather than chocolate eggs, they talked instead aboutmarshmallows. Hearing an unexpected answer so many times made merealizethatmaybeIwastheoutlier,noteveryoneelse.
IsoondiscoveredsomeAmericansareloyaltotraditionalchocolateeggs,butanequallystrongcontingentwillchoosemarshmallowchicks.Decidingbetweenthetwoisasfutileastheage-oldquestionofthechickenortheegg.Neitherofthemcanwinovertheother.
Could I create a marshmallow chick similar to the multiple ones outthere in the market? Of course. Making a new pastry with a differentmedium isn’t technically difficult, and I enjoyed working withmarshmallow.Buttodivergefromthedeepandpowerfulmemoriesofmychildhood,andtodoitwithabitofwitandcleverness—that’sliketryingtomakeajokeinaforeignlanguage.
More than six years passed between the first time I tried a Peep, thebest-known brand ofmarshmallow chicks, and the first time I attemptedmyownversion.Iusedcleanedeggshellswiththeirtopspreciselysevered.Adoubledollopofmarshmallowonthetoptransformedtheeggshellsintothehomesof small chicks.Theyweredusted in the same familiaryellowsugar andbrought to lifewith tinyblack chocolatedots as eyes, throughwhichtheypeeredoutinnocently.Inthiscreation,Icombinedtheeggandmarshmallow—it was my way of keeping a little bit of the Easter Icelebratedinmychildhood.
DidIreallyneedthatlengthoftimetodosomethingwithmarshmallowchicks for Easter? No. But there’s sincerity in adopting a tradition first,ratherthanforcingasolution.Ihadreceivedsomanymarshmallowchicksas presents from my American staff that by the time the holiday rolledaround,Ihadgottenusedtoexpectingthem.
There’s never a rush to create. Take some time to truly immerseyourself, and thegenuine thoughts thatcomeout—as simpleas theymaybe—willshinethrough.
“SOMEAMERICANSARELOYALTOTRADITIONALCHOCOLATEEGGS,BUTANEQUALLYSTRONGCONTINGENTWILLCHOOSEMARSHMALLOWCHICKS.DECIDINGBETWEENTHETWOISASFUTILEASTHEAGE-OLDQUESTIONOFTHECHICKENORTHEEGG.”
CRACKINGTHECHOCOLATEEGG
“It’stoobeautifultoeat,”saidthecustomer,intendingitasacompliment.Ididn’tknowquitehowtotakeit.Butsomethinginmygutfeltthethudofdisappointment.
I had made hundreds of chocolate Easter eggs that year. Each was alaboredprocess.Ittookthreehourstocraftnotjustonebutthreeeggsofincreasing size, which were nestled together like a set of Russianmatryoshkadolls.Theoutermostlayerwasadarkchocolateshell,dustedingold, with strategically punctured holes that allowed you to peer inside.Thereyouwouldfindawhitechocolateshellshiningoutinsharpcontrast.Andwithin that, amilk chocolate egg that held three types of chocolatetruffles.
The truffles were Champagne-, orange-, and pistachio-flavored. Butmost of the customers never got around to tasting any of them. Instead,their chocolate eggs sat around through the summer months until they
became dull and too old to eat andwere tossed out like a still-wrappedpresent.Being“toobeautiful”wasacurse thatprevented thesechocolateEaster eggs from fulfilling their destiny—to be sloppily and uninhibitedlyconsumedwithdelight.
Thiswasn’taproblemIhadencounteredbefore,backhomeinFrance.LavishgildedEastereggswerestandardthere,andcustomersdidn’thesitatetounwrapthemandbreaktheirshells.ButsuchFabergé-inspiredcreationsdidn’thavethesameeffectinNewYork.Here,beautywasadeterrenttodestruction.Andtheactofeatingrequiresthatsomethingbebrokentobedevoured.It’striumphantandmessy,andyouwipeyourmouthattheendofit.
HowwouldIcreatesomething“ugly”enoughtobeeaten?Clearly,Ididn’twanttocompromiseonthequalityofpresentation.As
themonthspassedandseasonschanged,IwonderedwhatIwoulddesignnextEaster.Oneday,Ideliveredacaketoachild’sbirthdayparty,whereapiñatahungintheclearedcenterofarestaurant’sprivateroom.Theyoungguestslaughedmischievouslyastheyswungthebat.Alightbulbwenton.ThiswasthetypeofreactionIwantedtoharness.Notthesubtleeyebrowraisesandthewhisperedcommentsofanartmuseum.
WhenEasterrolledaround,Iwasready.Iunveiledanall-redeggwithmenacingeyebrowsandasharpbeak.Itwasinspiredbythepopularvideogame Angry Birds, where the only objective is to launch birds with aslingshot and destroy structures. This chocolate egg was daring you tobreakit.Anditcapturedthejoyofdestruction.
Inside I generously stuffedbonbons, caramels, andmarshmallows.Thiswasthereward,theconquest,thelevel-up.Everysinglechocolateeggwasbrokenthatyear,justasallgreatculinarycreationsshouldbe.
SAVINGCEREALFORCHRISTMAS
There’s a problem that pastry chefs throughout history have struggled tosolve. How can delicate desserts be transported across great distances,especiallywhenmostofthemcanbarelysurviveaNewYorkCitysubwayride?
Acrosstheglobe,chefshavetriedtomanagethesituationwithvariousmaneuvers.IwasoncedeniedtherighttobuyacakeinTokyobecauseIconfessed I was staying at a hotel that was located more than fifteenminutesaway.Someshopspackage theirgoodswithpagesof instructionsthatwillprobablybe tossed in the trashalongwith thebag.Othershaveemployees repeat long speeches on the best storage recommendations astheystufficepacksintothebox.Nothingworksperfectly.
At a restaurant, the chef determines how each dish arrives, and eachplateisclearedbeforethenextoneisserved.Butinashop,youhandoveryour creations andwhat happens next is beyond your control.You can’tforcepeopletostayinoneplace.Damageisinevitable.
Theonlysolution,Irealized,wouldbetostopthinkingaboutthisasaproblem and embrace it as an opportunity. Iwanted to create somethingthat actually does travelwell.Andwhat timedopeople travel themost?Christmas. In this seasonofgiftingand family reunions,nobodywants togobackhomeempty-handed.
But packaged products often don’t have the same alluring appeal as afreshdessert.PerhapsyourememberatimewhenyoureceivedaChristmasgoodiebagandunexcitedlynibbledfromituntilspring.Iwantedanitemthatwould survive the trip and be ready to sharewith everyone once itlanded. How can you get someone to rip open the package and eatimmediately?
Ididn’trealizethatIwaslookingattheanswereverymorning.Inthosesleepyearlyhours,theoneitemIalwaysreachoutfor,almostbyreflex,isthecerealbox.Cerealisapartofeverydaylife:you’renotsavingitforaspecialoccasion;youwantitforitsconvenienceandsatisfactionregularly.
I went to work and coated puffed rice cereal in caramelized milkchocolateandtosseditwithsmoked-cinnamonmeringuesandcaramelizedhazelnuts. It’s what I would’ve liked waking up to early on Christmasmorningasachild,thenspendingtherestofthedayinpajamasopeninguppresents.
ChristmasMorningCerealwasanexperimentthatquicklygrewtooneofourmostpopularholiday specialties.Hundredsofboxeswentout thatyear,hand-carriedbylovedonestoplacesasdistantasAsiaandAustralia.AndmyhopeisthatonChristmasmorningitmadeeveryone’sbreakfastalittlesweeter.
3
DON’TLISTEN
MyparentstellmethatthefirstwordIeversaidwas“yes.”Ofcourse,Imayhavebeentryingtosaysomethingelse,sinceIwassputteringall sortsofunformednoisesat thetime.ButI liketothinkitistrue,andIoftenwonderwhatitwasthatinspiredmetobreakmysilence.
I livebytherule that ifyoudon’thaveanythingworthwhiletosay,youshouldn’tspeakatall.ButperhapsoneofthequietesttimesofmylifetookplacewhenIfirststartedmyownbakery.
It took just sevenof themostbackbreaking, sweat-drenching,andutterlyfrustratingweeks fromthetimeI leftmyprevious jobatDanieluntil theopeningday.Duringthatentireperiod,despitethefactthatIwastryingtobuild my vision, I was silent. Something within me withdrew into thesolitudeofmyinfantdays.
Asitturnedout,itwasaloteasiertonotspeakthanitwastonotlisten.Everyoneelsehadsomethingtosayaboutmynextstep.
“You should focus on selling sandwiches,” one person suggested.“People don’t buy pastries these days. They’ll buy sandwiches duringlunchtime.That’swhereyoumakethemoney.”
“Youshouldmakecupcakes,”anotherrecommended.“It’sNewYork!Peoplelovecupcakes.”
“Lowertheprices,”saidone.“Increasetheprices,”suggestedanother.ThereI foundmyself,at thebeginningofthenextstageofmycareer,
and I could barely hearmyown thoughts above the chatter of everyone
else’s.Iunderstoodthattheiradvicewaswellintentioned,butIknewIhadtodecidethewayforwardformyself.Ineededtolearnhowtonotlisten.
Theworldspeaksonlytowhathasalreadyhappened:talesofthosewhohavealreadysucceeded,thosewhohavealreadyfailed.Adviceisbasedonhistory rather than possibility. And onlywhen you stop listening do youstop imitating and start creating. In this chapter, I’ll take you throughdecisions Imade that at firstmay seem counterintuitive, like launching apastrycalledtheDKA,whicheveryonetoldmewouldnevercatchon.I’lldescriberule-breakingstuntsliketheMagicSoufflé,andI’llsharethestorybehind the infamous Cronut™ pastry. I’ll end with a caveat: it’s alsoimportanttorememberthatsomethingsrequirenochangeatall,asisthecasewithvanillaicecream.
Take amomentwithme and try to not listen.Digwithin yourself tofind the things you deeply care about and believe in.Andwhen you hituponwhatinspiresyoumost,thedoubtwilldissipate.Therightpathwillbeclear.Andyouwillbreakyoursilencewitharesounding“yes.”
TRUSTTHEDKA
A week before opening the bakery, I told the crew I wanted to makekouign amann. Everyone’s response was the same: “You want to makewhat?”
TheCelticnamelookedstrangeonpaperandwasevenhardertosoundoutcorrectly(it’spronouncedKWEENah-MAHN).Needlesstosay,fromamarketingperspectivetheteamthoughtitwouldbeadisastertohighlightalittle-known,unpronounceablepastryonourmenu.
Bestdescribedasa“caramelizedcroissant,”thekouignamannfeaturesadazzlingsugarycrustandtendercroissant-likelayerswithin.Butter,dough,and sugar must be perfectly laminated, or layered together—with nointermittent time to chill and rest—to achieve its distinctive crispy, flaky,andmoisttexture.
Within minutes of folding the dough with the butter, the laminatedcombination adds further challenges as it starts to melt; sprinkling inhandfuls of sugar draws out the moisture from the dough. This processleavesmanycookswithasoggymessofindistinguishablelayers.Itishardtotrainsomeonetopayattentiontotheminusculechangesofthedoughasit endures fold after fold.Containing just a few ingredients—flour, yeast,
butter, sugar, andwater—the kouign amannoffers the same challenge asthatofanomelet:easytomake,butdifficulttomakewell.
Overtime,Imodifiedmyrecipetodecreasethebutterandsugar,whichresultedinalightertexture.Removingfatorsugarfromanyreciperesultsinapastrythatismoreperishable,andthistweakdecreasedtheshelflifeofthe kouign amann to just twelve hours. Yet another obstacle from thebusinessman’sperspective.
What’smore,my recipe required thatwe prepare a fresh batch everymorning.Withoutanyfrozeninventoryasasafetynet,anymistakecouldruinthebatchandleavethebakerywithnonetosellfortheday.
SowhichshouldIhavelistenedto—myheadormygut?Itwasoneofthosedefiningcrossroads,andIknewIwouldregretnotgivingaproductIbelieved inachance towin thesupportof theworld. It iseasy torideatrend;it’smuchhardertomoveintheoppositedirection.That’swhatwedidwhenweputtheDKAonourmenu.Everyonceinawhile,youmusttakealeapoffaith.
Adaybeforewewelcomedourfirstcustomer,Iarrangedatastetestforthe staff in the empty bakery. The next day,whenwe pulled down thepaperfromthewindowsandopenedourdoors,Icouldstillhearmurmursfrombehind the register.Theywere reminiscing about their first taste of“that caramelized croissant thing.” It became the one pastry that peoplesaidwas“lifechanging.”
Every single kouign amann sold out by noon. Curiosity drove manygueststotheirfirstbite,butitwastastethatultimatelykeptthemcomingback. Eventually, it became known as theDKA forDominique’sKouignAmann, a name coined by our regulars for my lightly modified version.The DKA has sold out every day since, and we have quintupledproduction.
Afewdaysagoamotherandsoncametothestore.WhenIaskedwhattheirfavoriteitemwas,themotherquicklyreplied,“TheDKA!”Andthat’swhen her three-year-old son looked up at me and said, “Dominique’sKouignAmann”clearlyandwithperfectpronunciation.
“ITISEASYTORIDEATREND;IT’SMUCHHARDERTOMOVEINTHEOPPOSITEDIRECTION.THAT’SWHATWEDIDWHENWEPUTTHEDKAONOURMENU.”
BREAKINGTHESOUFFLÉLAWS
Whenexecutedperfectly,thechocolatesouffléiseasytofallinlovewith.Thespooncracksthethinlysettledtopanddescendsdownintothecloud-likechocolatelayer,itstipdippingintothemoltenchocolatebeneath.
Butwhatadivaitis!Aslammedovendoor,agustintheair,andevenawhisper could cause its collapse. No other item in a cook’s repertoireinspiresasmuchdread.Andperhapsthatiswhyitistheonlydessertthatassertsitselfbeforetherestofyourmealhasevenbegun.Orderwhatyouwill for the main course, but decide up front whether you want to begracedwith thepresenceof the soufflé.Remember the timewheneverywaiterstartedoffthemealcautioningyou,“Ifyouwouldliketoorderthesoufflé,youwouldneedtoplacetheordernow.”
Ineverputa souffléonmymenuwhenIworkedata restaurant.Butthatdidn’tstopregularrequestsforthem,whichIalwaysaccommodated,ifgrudgingly. I left my restaurant days behind relishing the fact that Iwouldn’t have to do another rush order for a chocolate soufflé in themiddleofthenightforaVIP.
Iwas recountingmy soufflévexationswhen Iwas interrupted.“Whatwasitaboutthesouffléthatyouhatedsomuch?”someoneasked.Ididn’thate the soufflé, I explained. But I felt restrained by its rigidity. There’sonlysomuchyoucandotoalterasoufflé.Itwasalwaysthesamewhiteramekin and regular cadre of ingredients: chocolate, raspberries, and soforth. I found it old-fashioned and stuffy. It simplywasn’t an innovativedessert.“Well,I’msureyoucouldmakeitinnovative,”cametheresponse.Andthechallengewasaccepted.
TheverynextdayIsetouttocreatea“reimagined”soufflé.Onethatwouldnevercollapseandstillhadthebasiccharacteristics:anaeratedcrustwith an airy and semi-liquid core. I decided to free the soufflé from theconfinesof its ramekinandmake itportablebyencasing it inanorange-blossombrioche.Itwouldbeonefortherulebreakers,therevolutionaries.
This task kept me up nights. Breaking rules, as it turns out, takes awholelotofwork.Istudiedthetechnicalitiesofstabilizingeggwhitesandcontrollingtemperatures,tweakingeachstepintheexecutionprocess.Thefinalproductisnotsomethingthatyoucanwhiptogetherinaninstant.Itis
laboriousandtime-consuming.AndI’msuremanycookswouldpreferthestraightforwardnessofaclassicsouffléreciperatherthanthesidestepsinmynewversion.
Butshowmeamagicianwhodidn’tcarefullyplaneachsleightofhandormeticulouslycalculatetheperfectlyplacedsmokeandmirrorssothatthetricklooksaseffortlessaswhensomeoneripsapartthebriocheshelltofindachocolatecore.Innovationmayseemlikemagic,buttherealtriumphistheworkbehindthescenes.
THEREALCRONUT™LESSON
Peoplehavea lot tosayabouttheCronut™pastry.Buttheyalwaysstartoff with the same question: “How did you do it?” And this is quicklyfollowedby:“HowcanIdoit,too?”
Formonths, I explained to journalist after journalist that therewasnomagicformulaormarketingstrategybehindthiscroissant-doughnuthybrid.Itwassimplyanothercreation.Iwasmakingasnackfortheteamwhosaidtheywantedtoeatdoughnuts.Havingnorecipeforadoughnut,Idecidedtomakemyown.Glazedonthetop,thepastrywasfilledwithcreamandsugaredlikeadoughnut,butithadalaminateddoughthatwassimilarto—butnot the sameas—croissantdough.Crispyon theoutside,with tenderlayerswithin,itwasaplayfultreat.Twomonthsandtenrecipeslater,theCronut pastrywas born.Nobody could’ve imaginedwhatwould happennext.
Picasso sketched and painted hiswhole life, yet only a fraction of hisactualbodyofworkbecamerecognizable.Mozartcomposedsincehewasachild, but many of us can hum only a few notes from his symphonies.What’smore,theybothstartedoffnotknowinghowtopaintorplaymusicatall.Andittookeverybadsketchandamateurcompositiontomoldthemintosomeonetheworldapplauded.Creativityisaboutlivingthrougheverycreation,eventhelacklusterones.Thebestcreationshavemakerswhoarefully immersed in livingacreative life.Theyareallastepforward.Ihadalwaysbelievedinthat,butinventingtheCronutpastrytaughtmehowtonotfalltwostepsback.
OneMaymorningin2013,justthreedaysafterwelaunchedtheCronutpastry,more than a hundred peoplewerewaiting outside the door. Theline started threehoursbeforeour8:00 a.m.opening time, andwewerejustfourpeopleinside:twobaristasinfrontandtwocooksinthekitchen.
“We’regoingtodogreat,”Iassuredoneofthegirlsworkingbehindtheregister,tryingtoswallowthepanicbubblinginsideme.Shehadstartedtotremble at the thought of the crowd bursting through the doors of oursmallshopinthenextfewminutes.
Withinthecocoonofthebakerywalls,wehadonlyheardmurmursofhowourhumbledesserthad“goneviral”and“wastrending.”Eachstorywaswilder than the next, from a personwho sold a secondhandCronutpastry for $100 on the blackmarket, to customers offering bribes to ouremployees,tothesadmomentswhenwecaughtpeoplegoingthroughourtrashforwhateverrejectedportionsofthepastrywehadtossedoutearlierthatmorning.Wewere toocaughtup in trying todowhatwecould toeithergaspindisbelieforrejoiceinthesuccess.Allwecouldfocusonwasgettingthroughthetornadoofdailyevents.
Thencameeverybody’stwocents.Economistsspokeofsupplymeetingdemandandurgedmetoraisemyprices.Entrepreneursgavemelessonsonscaling.Andthereweremanywholoveddanglingthecarrotofsellingout.Therewas only one piece of advice I took, and itwas simple: “Imaginewhatyouwouldhavedone if theCronutpastryneverexisted.Goaheadanddothat.”
Nomatter how steep the climb ahead, the trip is alwaysmade easierwhenyouknowwhereyou’regoing.AndIhadseenmydestinationinoneword:creativity.Wemovedon.Wedidtheonethingnobodythoughtwewoulddo—wetriedtoignoretheCronutpastry.
We handledmatters aswe did any other day. Priceswere not raised.Large corporations didn’t consume us. And growth, although a naturalprogression in any business, was dealt with mindfully and without rush.Togetherasateam,wenolongerfearedtheline.Weembracedthosewhowaitedpatiently,withhotchocolate andhandwarmersduring thewintermonths and fresh-bakedmadeleines in the summer.Theywere serenadedbycarolersduringtheChristmasseasonandgiftedlong-stemmedrosesonValentine’s Day. We capped our production—not in an effort to makethings “exclusive” but rather as a way to preserve the quality of theproduct.Atonepointwehadnotonlymovedon,butmovedbeyond.Wesaw that theCronut pastry had become a symbol of creativity that drewcrowdsfromaroundtheworld,whichinturninspiredmetokeepworkingtowardmydestinationandmoveontothenextcreation.
Fewthingsaredefinedby themoment theywereborn,but rather thestorytheylivedthrough.TherealsecretslienotintherecipeoftheCronutpastry,butintheinfinitythatliesaheadofit.
“PEOPLEHAVEALOTTOSAYABOUTTHECRONUT™PASTRY.BUTTHEYALWAYSSTARTOFFWITHTHESAMEQUESTION:‘HOWDIDYOUDOIT?’ ”
ETERNALLYVANILLA
Peopleaskmeallthetimewhatmyfavoriteicecreamflavoris.AndwhenI enthusiastically reply “Vanilla!” there’s always disappointment in theireyes.TheyseemsurprisedthatI’mnotdrawnbythevibranthuesofberry-speckled sorbets,norby thedecadentgleamofchocolateor theallureofseasaltoncaramel.Thereisnomorecompetitivebattlegroundforflavorsthaninanicecreamcase.
“Youlikevanilla?”Theyrepeatthequestion,asifgivingmeachancetochangemymind.
Sometimes I suffer a momentary doubt. Should I have said hazelnut orcoffee?ButthenIremindmyself:Ilikevanilla,andI’mnotashamedofit.
Welive inaworldwheretwistsandturnsareapplauded.I’vehadmyshareofbacon-,avocado-,andcheese-flavoredicecreams—mostofwhichI could dowithout. And a whole year once passed when I didn’t eat ascoopofvanillaicecream.WhenIfinallydid,mytastebuds,wipedcleanof theirmemoryof vanilla, experienced somethingnew. I felt like Iwasdrinkingfreshwaterafteralifetimeofwine.Everynoterangoutclearly.
What has ruined vanilla’s reputation isn’t that it is used sowidely, butthat it has been used so poorly. Oversweetened, extract-flavored, grainy
versions of vanilla ice cream are everywhere. And without a minimumstandard,itsidentityhascometostandfor“plain.”Whatasadfateforanexoticblackfruitharvestedfromanorchid.
Atrulywell-executedvanillaicecreamisaperfectharmonyofflavors:thebasedelicatelycooked,thequalityofthecreamandeggspristine,andthe vanilla pods the very best you can buy. Those floral beans lie overeverybitelikethesoftestlaceonsatin.Itisn’tPlainJane.ItisCocoChanelinaroomofoveraccessorizedwomen,thebeautyofCinderellaagainsthergaudystepsisters.
Real innovation is not about chasing the fashionable, but having aninherent beauty. It is not about a sampling of cleverness, but honestconsiderationforwhatworkswell.That’svanillaicecream.Ifyouhaven’thaditforawhile,takeabiteofatrulydeliciousscoop.It’stheoneflavorthatprovesitselftobenotjustapassingfancy,butaneternalromance.
4
WHAT’SINANAME?
Close to a thousand customers walk through the doors of thebakerydaily.Ismileornodastheywalkpast;ourintroductionsareoftenbrief.ThecallofthekitchenallowsforlesstimethanIwould’ve liked to meet everyone. But there’s one encounter Iwillalwaysremember.
Onesummerafternoon,acoupleapproachedme.Theypointedtowardasmallphotoonthewallofabasketofmadeleines.Theysmiledastheytoldtheir story: in a fewweeks theywouldwelcome their newborndaughterandtheywouldnameherMadeleine.Theselittlecakebiteshadbeenthemother’sfavoriteduringherpregnancy,andtheywerehopingforacopyofthephototohanginthenursery.“Ifyoucouldwriteanote,Chef,”theyaddedwithappreciation.
ThatnightIthoughtaboutwhattowritetobabyMadeleine.Thislittlegirl named after a pastry that was once named after another girl by thename of Madeleine Paulmier, a cook in the eighteenth century. Howdifferentyetdistinctively“madeleine”theyeachare.
Theoldadagesays,“Apictureisworthathousandwords.”TowhichIalways respond: It depends on theword.Names are no ordinarywords.Namesprecedeus,oftentimes longbeforeweareevenborn,andsurviveafter we have died. Few people know that my real name is actuallyDominiqueAnselJr.Iwasnamedaftermyfather,butIneverthoughtofitassomethingto liveupto.Wecouldnotbemoredifferent.Forme,thenamewasablessing.Itremindedmeofthelovehehadforme.
Over theyears, there aremany“nameless” creations Ihaveplacedonmymenu.Imerelydescribedwhattheywere—afruittart,apieceofcake.Butinthischapter,Iwillhighlightcreationsthatwerebroughttolifewith
aname.Sometimesanameleadstoaspecificsetofexpectations,likethePerfect Little Egg Sandwich. Other times a name can unlock a deeperhistory, as it was for the religieuse. Names can also be transporting,especiallywhentheydrawinspirationfromplaces,likemyinterpretationoftheParis-Brest.AndIexplainhowaquickabbreviation,whichresultedintheMiniMe,cangiveapastrynewpurposeinthekitchen.
WhenIhandedoverthephotoofthemadeleinestothecouplethenextday, I hadwritten amessage that onlyMadeleine andher parentswouldknowfortheyearstocome.Themostimportantwordswerethefirsttwo.“To Madeleine,” it began. And that was worth more than a thousandwordsalready.
PERFECTINGALITTLEEGGSANDWICH
“ThePerfectLittleEggSandwich,”IscribbledonaPost-itnote.Itwas the first thing that our first customer orderedwhen the bakery
opened.Iwelcomedhimintothebrand-newshopandcarefullyassembleditmyself: a fluffy, two-inch-thick sliceofwarm scrambledeggs, seasonedwith caramelized shallots, chives, and a liberal sprinkling of sea salt andgroundblackpepper;apaper-thinsliceofGruyèrecheese,slightlymeltedunderthebroiler;allbetweenafreshlytoasted,butterybriochebun.Simple,Ithought.
Buttheword“perfect”changeseverything.Itisamonumentaltitleforahumblecreationtoliveupto.
“Is it really perfect?” the skeptics asked. “Whatmakes it perfect?” thetheoristswondered.
Afterawhile,evenIstartedtoquestionthewholeideaofperfection.Ithrewmyself back into the kitchen in an attempt tomake the sandwichmore perfect. What if I added bacon or pancetta? Maybe some sort of
spreadoverthebread?Aswinterrolledaround,Ievencreatedaversionofthesandwichwithfreshblacktruffles.
When our first customer—now a regular—returned for his dailybreakfastsandwich,Iwaseagertoshowhimthenewoption.“Wouldyouliketotrytheonewiththeblacktruffle?”ourstaffsuggested.
“No,”hesaid,“justtheperfectisfine.”Hesaiditinanonchalantway.Buthisanswerwasawake-upcall.
Perhapstheplatonicidealoftheperfectlittleeggsandwichdoesn’texist.Theideaofaflawlessstateisastaticone.Anditsuggeststhatnothingcanbe improvedupon. In that sense it feels abit limited; it’s theendof theroad.Beingperfectmaynotbetherealgoalintheend,butbecomingperfectis filled with the promise of always progressing. When I thought aboutperfectionasaquest, I letgoof thestressofexpectations. Instead, Iwasfilled with infinite inspiration. In my mind I placed the word “perfect”silently in frontof everynewcreation I attempted.Whenyouno longerfearperfection,yousetloftiergoalsandsurprisinglyaccomplishmorethanyou think youmight. Creations break, they stall, there’s always a betterversiontobemade.Butfewcreationsareevergreatunlesstheyfirstaspiretobeperfect.
DRESSUPWITHTHERELIGIEUSE
When I teachmy staffhow tomake the religieuse, I always tell them thestory behind the pastry. This two-tiered cream puff, dipped into darkchocolateglazeandpipedwithwhitebuttercream,earneditsnamebecauseitresemblestheblack-and-whiteheaddressofanun.
“Doyouseethewayitkindoflookslikeawoman’sheadandbody?”Isay.
“Yes,”theyrespond.“Andit’sdressedlikeanun.”Thatisalwaysfollowedbyachuckle.I never understood why they laugh. The explanation seemed second
nature to me, since this classic pastry can be found in just about everybakeryinFrance.Ihadgrownuplovingthisdouble-deckerdelight,staringatitinthecasesoftheDalloyaupastryshops.Filledwithdifferentflavorsofpastrycream,italwaysseemedadecadentalternativetotheéclair.ButinNewYork, few had heard of this treat. Andwe never sold asmanyreligieusesasIhoped.
ThenIfinallygotthejoke.Howsadwasitthatthereligieusehadbeendressedupasanunforalltheseyears!Itseemedprimandunapproachablewhen desserts were supposed to be just the opposite—sensual andseductive.
ItwasNewYorkFashionWeekatthetime,andsoIdecidedtodressup the religieuse after years of its fashion conservatism.Ruffles and palewhiteflowersonone,ascarletglazeandpipedlacedécoronanother,andablack-and-whitedandyapproachonathird.
Namescanbeconstricting.Andsometimeswehavetoputthosenamesasideandappreciatewhatliesbeneath.OnceIsawthereligieuseasabodyform to dress, anything was possible. We did Valentine’s Day angel
religieuses and Santa religieuses. They were topped in berets for BastilleDay and witch hats for Halloween. Customers forgot about the name“religieuse” and identifiedwithwhat they saw in front of them.Withinweeksof thisbreakthrough,wecateredour firstweddingwith religieusesdressedasbridesandgrooms.Everyoneof its incarnationsbecamea topselleratthebakery.Itisatraditionwecontinuetothisday.
We’renotalwaysgiventhehonorofnamingacreation.Classicscomewith their own title, personality, and history. Understanding a creationmeans embracing its past, but also letting it become a foundation for amore relevant present. It is something that doesn’t need to be shed, butonceinawhile,thingscanberedressed.
ANEWYORKPASTRY
“Where are you from?” asked the cabdriver as we crossed theQueensborough Bridge toward Manhattan. It was a straightforwardquestion to which I always answered: France. But that day, the answerchanged.“I’mfromNewYork,”Isaid.
Wealwaysrememberthefirsttimewemeetthepeoplewhowill laterchangeour lives.We lookback at the formal introductions, the shyness,andtheserendipitythatbroughtusalltogether.IremembermeetingNewYorkforthefirsttime,anditwastheclosestI’veeverexperiencedtoloveatfirstsight.
NeverhadIseenacitythatwassoalive.Theconstantflowofpeopleand cars pulsates through the streets with each pounding heartbeat. Theskyscrapers stretchupwardwith thedreamsof thecity.Andeverycornercan be reborn in the blink of an eye to showcase a new shop, newrestaurant, and new idea. New York is the mother of reinvention, theconsummatemuse; she’s everyone’s paramour, and as one ofmy biggestinspirations,Iwantedtocaptureherinadessert.
ButwhatdoesNewYork“taste” like? I started to list the flavors thatremindedme of this city.The burnt caramel scent of street-side vendorsroastingnutsinthewinterasyouexitthesubwaystations.Thataromaofhazelnutcoffeedrifting fromeverycornerdeli.Thebrininessofhotdogsmixingwiththetingeofsauerkraut.Agarlickystir-fryhittingthesizzlingwoks inChinatown. The sweet, yeasty air of bagel shops. The bubblingmozzarella fresh out of pizza ovens. Every thought took me down adifferentstreet.Tryingtopinpointatasteforoneofthemosteclecticcitiesintheworldwasanimpossibletask.It’sasifyouweretryingtoexplainallthe reasons you love someone. You would produce an endless list thatneverquiteexpressesthevastnessofyourfeelings.
SoIwentbacktothatveryfirsttimeImetNewYork.TheplanerideherehadbeenlongandsleeplessasIsatawakeinanxiousthought.Itwasthe calm before the storm of being ushered through immigration andbaggageclaimandfinallypushedoutdoors,whereIremembersquintingattheblue skiesandbreathing in thecoldair.Beforehopping intoacab, Ibought a Snickers bar. I took bite after bite of the caramel, peanut, and
chocolatetreataswedrovetowardtheskylinemadesoclearlyrecognizablebytheEmpireStateBuilding.
The dessert I dedicated to New York is called the Paris–New York.Inspiredby that simple chocolatebar thatbecamemy first “meal” in thecity, I built it by piping concentric rings of soft caramel,milk chocolate,and peanut butter ganache. It is a take on the Paris-Brest, traditionally aringofchouxpastrydoughfilledwithhazelnutcream.TheParis-Brestwasnamedafterabicycleracethatrunsbetweenthetwocities:ParistoBrest,thenbacktoParis.WhatbetterwaytocapturemyjourneythancreatingaParis–NewYork?
Icouldneverdistilltheever-changingNewYorkdowntoafewflavors.And so many objects of inspiration are not captured completely in thecreationsthataretributestothem.Mytrickistoalwayszoomin:thatlittlebitofglitterisallyouneed.Evenifyoumanagetoexpressjustthetipofwhatsomethingmeanstoyou,it’sworthashot.
ME,MINIME,ANDMERINGUES
Iwasn’t planning on talking aboutworkwhen Imet upwithmy friendAun,whowasvisitingfromSingapore,forlunch.Butsomewherebetweenourappetizerandmaincourse,ItoldhimthatIwasinterestedinmakingalineofminiaturemeringuespipedintinyteardropsasatakeawaygiftitem.Iwanted them tobe cute andplayful.Theonlyproblemwas“miniaturemeringues”—thename—wasneither.
“Meringuettes,” “meringue kisses,” “petites meringues”—I listed therejectsforhimtohear.
“WhataboutMiniMe?”hesuggested,alludingtothefamouscharacterin Austin Powers. The problem of naming these meringues was instantlysolved.Webothknewthiswouldbeitsname.Aunhadmanagedtothinkof something in thirty seconds that I had struggled for three months tofigureout.Ifonlyeverypartofthecreativeprocesscouldbeaseasyasthis.
Whatdoyou imaginewhenyoupicturean innovator?Amadscientistsecretlymixingpotionsinhislab?Anauthorcrinklinguppageafterpageof
writtentextinastruggletofindtherightwords?Aprogrammerhunchedoverherscreenwithherfingerspoundingoutcode?
Mostofthetime,wetendtothinkofcreativityasasoloenterprise.Wearetaughtthatitrequiressilence,privacy,andtimetoincubate.Anideaisfragile—the slightest snicker might dissuade its owner from transformingthought intoaction.Yet sometimes,whenweopenup to the restof theworld, we are able to break our own boundaries. Inspiration doesn’thappeninalockedroom.Inmycase,ithappenedinabustlingrestaurantwitharoundofdrinksonthetable.
Aun was back in Singapore long before the Mini Me’s launched. Henevergottotastethemorseethemsittingonthebakery’sshelves.Buthehadproventomethatcreativitycanbeasocialaffair.Thekeyisinfindingtherightconfidantwhoseopinionsandtasteyourespectandrealizingthatopeningyourselfuptootherscanbringanewperspectivetoachallenge.Twocanoftenbebetterthanone.
What was so brilliant about Aun’s suggestion wasn’t just the humorbehind it,but the fact that thenamealso suggesteda function. I realizedthattheMiniMe’sshouldn’tbeinnameonly.Imadethemthemignonsforotherdesserts. Iwouldadd themtocakes, sprinkle themover icecream,drop them into hot chocolate. They were no longer a stand-aloneconfection, but a companion to so many others. It was an item thatelevatedthosearoundit,thewaythatsometimespeoplearoundyoucandothesameforyou.
“IREALIZEDTHATTHEMINIME’SSHOULDN’TBEINNAMEONLY.IMADETHEMTHEMIGNONSFOROTHERDESSERTS.THEYWERENOLONGERASTAND-ALONECONFECTION,BUTACOMPANIONTOSOMANYOTHERS.”
5
CREATEANDRE-CREATE
It’samake-or-breakmomentforanypastrychef:thefewsecondsafteryoufinishyourshowpieceandbeginthestuntofmovingitto the display table. A showpiece, made out of chocolate orsugar,doesjustwhatitsnamesuggests—itshowsoff.Paper-thinsugar ribbons, delicate chocolate spires, it’s a demonstration ofskillandprowess.Thegoalistodefygravity.Theslightestbumpcan unleash an avalanche of falling pieces and result in thedeepestofheartbreak.
Three cooks helped me carry my showpiece. With carefullychoreographed steps,we all held our breath until themomentwhen thefinal fingertip pulled away frombeneath the structure. I had assembled alargechocolatewavethatwovearoundandbackontoitself.Itdoubledasadisplaypieceanda stand formydesserts.The structure requiredclose to220pounds(100kilograms)ofchocolatetocreate.Ittookthreeweekstoperfect.
A fewhoursafter itsdebut,however, Ibashedmychocolate sculpturewith a hammer like a wrecking ball through a wall. Those around megaspedasIknockedthepiecesuntilsplinteredbitsofchocolatecoveredthetable.
“Howcanyoustandtobreakdownsomethingyouworkedsohardtobuild?” one observer asked.Towhich I explained that Iwasn’t breakingdown, Iwas getting ready tobuildbackup.Thiswas theprocess of re-creation.
Chocolate,whichcanbemeltedandre-sculptedendlessly,isoneofmyfavoriteingredients.Ilovetowatchthesculptedshapesmeltintoasmoothand glossy pool, once again becoming a tabula rasa. Certain mediumsconstantly welcome reinvention. After each appearance, they can bereincarnated.Theyformanewanddifferentwonder.
Thischapterisaboutbreakingdowntheclassicsandbuildingthembackup.Certainpastrieshavelong-forgottenhistories,andwhenyourediscovertheir secrets,you find inspiration fornewpointsofview,aswas thecasewith my Cotton-Soft Cheesecake. I’ll tell you about how something asstoriedasacroissantcanbetransformedinwhatseemslikeamagictrick.Sometimes,I’minspiredbythingsIdon’tparticularlylike,andI’llexplainhowwhenIdescribemyappletartTatin.Finally,I’llsharemystoryabouthow a bite-size chouquette, a small, unfilled cream puff, earned a spot inpeople’sheartsthankstoanotherone-bitetreat.
We’reoftentoldthatweshouldn’ttrytofixwhat’snotbroken.I’mnottrying to “fix” anything. Instead, I see each and every creation and re-creation as unique. There is no end to the road. Think instead of theendless number of paths, and open your mind to what lies beyond thehorizon.
AfewmonthsafterIsmashedit,IrecastmychocolatewaveshowpieceasanEastereggthesizeofmytorso.WhenMayrolledaround,Ibrokeitdownandshapeditintochocolateflowerpetalsforacakedisplay.Someof
these re-creationswere big, otherswere small. Somewere sturdy, otherswere more delicate. The beauty, however, is in how they were allconnected.
THECHEESECAKE’SFORGOTTENHERITAGE
Whoinventedthefirstcheesecake?WouldyouhaveguessedtheGreeks?I was shocked to learn this bit of trivia. For me, it seemed like an
American classic. But it was the Romans who adopted the originalcheesecake from the Greeks and spread it throughout Europe as theirempire expanded. And when Europeans later landed on the shores of anewlydiscoveredAmerica,theybroughttherecipewiththem.Thisplain-looking dessert, consisting of a cheese-based filling in a pastry shell, hadbeenservedonthetableofOlympicathletes,emperors,andimmigrants.
Today, you can find cheesecake all over theworld. In every locationthere’sadifferenttwist.Chicago-stylecheesecakestendtousesourcream.The Germans prefer quark instead of cream cheese. And in Japan, thefilling is made with a touch of cornstarch so that it whips to a lightconsistency. But perhaps the best known of all is the New York–stylecheesecake: a dense cream cheese filling, slightly browned on top, and a
grahamcrackercrustonthebottom.It isthebold“original”standardforsomany.
“IfyouliveinNewYork,youhavetodoacheesecake,”Iwastold.Atonepoint,virtuallyeveryrestauranthadacheesecakeonitsmenu.Butmyquestwouldbetoapproachitfromadifferentangle.
Itwas the cheesecake’s forgotten heritage that becamemy inspiration.OurshopinSoHoiswithinwalkingdistanceofsomeofthemosteclecticneighborhoods in the city. Seeing freshly made ricotta draining incheeseclothafewblockseastinLittleItalysetoffthesparkthatwouldleadme todevelopa light ricottamousse filling formycheesecake.Tasting awarmalmondspongecakeonacoldwinterdayinChinatown,justtothesouth, gave me the vision of a moist almond cake base in lieu of theexpected graham cracker one. The final touch, a slightly torched sugarcrustoverthecheesecake,camefromadesserteveryFrenchmangrewupwith—thecrèmebrûlée.
MyCotton-SoftCheesecakenevergoesoffthebakery’smenu.Itisnotthe classicNewYork–style cheesecake. But then again,NewYork–stylecheesecakeisnothingliketheoriginalGreek-stylecheesecake,whichusedfreshcheesethatwaspoundedwithastone intoapaste.Apairofdenimjeanshaschangeditscutandwashthroughoutthedecadesbutmaintaineditsintegrity.Automobileshavebecomeslickerandmoremodernthantheiroriginalmodels.Evenconstitutions in countriesundergoamendments andmodifications.Classicsdon’tresistchange;theyarebuiltonit.
SWITCHINGOUTHAMFORJAMÓN
Thestreetperformerheldacoinuptomyeyelevelandwarnedmenottoblink.Withoutbreakingmystare,Iwatchedashetwistedhisfingersandtransformedonecoinintotwo.Myjawdropped.Iwasjustaboy.ItwasthefirsttimeIwitnessedmagic.
ThesedaysIseemagicineverycreation—whetherit’sapieceofmusic,a daring work of architecture, or a delicious new pastry. And there arealwaysthreepartstothismagictrick.Thefirstisasenseofwonder.
“Iwonder ifwecoulddothat?”Seamusaskedme.As thechefof theaward-winning Spanish restaurant Tertulia, located a few blocks away intheWestVillage, he had dropped by to visit the bakery.Hewanted toknow if we could re-create the classic ham and cheese croissant intosomethingwith a Spanish flair, using jamón ibérico, a curedham from theblack-footedIberianpig,andagedMahóncheese.
Ineverthoughtofmodifyingourhamandcheesecroissantbeforethatmoment.Whenyou’re inside akitchenworkingwith the samepantryofingredients,sometimesittakesanoutsidertoinspireasenseofwonder.
Thesecondpartof themagic trick isdelivering theresult.Towonderfreelywithoutputtinganideaintoactionisbuttodaydream.Allmiraclestakework.IttookmeawholemonthtofigureouthowIcouldmakethemostofthesenewingredients.Itmighthavebeeneasiertosimplyfoldthenewhamandcheeseintothecroissantdough.Thatisthewayitisalwaysdone.Butworkingwithsuchspecial(andpricey)productspushedmetodomore.Inordertomaximizetheflavorofthejamónibérico,whichisslicedmuchthinnerthantraditionalParisianjambon,Iincorporatedthelard,whichcarriesthatsignaturedeepnuttiness,intothebutterpackageforthedough.And I added in trimmings and flakes of the jamón so you could see itspeckled throughout the crumbof the viennoiserie.At every step, I testedandtweakedtopreservethecroissant’slight,flakytexture.Wesentatestbatchover toSeamus’skitchenandawaiteda response.Anemailhitourinboxafewhourslaterfilledwithexclamationmarks.
Andthat’swhenweprepareforthelastpartofthemagictrick:delight.Thefirsttimeastranger,completelyunawareoftheweightoftheworkittook,simplytakesabite.Iwaitforit,asI’msurethemagiciandidwhen
hefirstdazzledmeonthestreetcorner.It’samomentofjoythatplaysinfrontofmeinslowmotionwhenacustomer’slipspresstogetherinadeeppurrof“Mmm...”
Often right after my guests taste something, they want to know therecipe and story behind it. “Showmehow to do thismagic trick,” theysay.I’mhappytoshare,butalwayshesitateforamoment.Therevealisanilluminatingyetdishearteningprocess:onceyouexplain the stepsand thelabor, the fantasy dissipates. But I always find comfort in the fact thatperhaps this personmight use this knowledge to fascinate someone else.Wecanallpayitforwardwithmagic.
THEAPPLETARTOFMYEYE
WhenIwasayoungboy,myparentsbroughtmetothestreetcarnivalsinFrance,whereIspententireafternoonstryingmyhandateverycointossandshootinggamebeforejumpingontheFerriswheeltocatchthesunset.Butwhilemysiblingsscarfeddowntheirpommesd’amour,acandiedappletreatfoundateveryfair,withdelight,Ineverquitefeltthesame.
At first, the pomme d’amour was tempting. The scarlet caramel shellglistenedasifmadefromblownglass.Awholeapplepromisedadecadent—and generous—serving.But the illusionwas shatteredwhen I tookmyfirst bite. The tough skin of the apple wedged between my front teeth.SourjuicerandownmychinasIstruggledtokeeppiecesoftackycaramelfrom falling on—and staining—my clothes. I was embarrassed to comeclean tomy family about howmuch I didn’t like thiswell-loved treat. Ididn’twanttoseemunappreciative.Italwaysfeelsas ifyou’re living inadifferentworldwhenyoudon’tagreewithpopularopinion.
Years later,when Iwas inmy teens, I bitmy tongue aswellwhen awaiter suggested I order the apple tartTatin.At the time, the tartTatinwasthemostin-demandrestaurantdessert.Madewiththickapplesegmentsgently sautéed in a deep caramel and topped with a buttery puff pastrycrust,thewholethingwasthenflippedupsidedownanddisplayedwithabigvoilàatthetable.
Eyes widened as my dining companions prepared to dig into thesumptuous dish. But formy taste? It was a little too sweet. The apples,saturatedwithanintenseamountofcaramel,tastedlikecandyratherthanfruit,andtheir texturewasmushyfromaprolongedcookingtime.Yet itwassuchaniconicdishIfeltalmostguiltyfornotlikingit.
Opinions come inwaves andwith the support of themasses, but it’sokaytothinkdifferently.Trynottoletyourownthoughtsbedrownedoutbythevoicesofthecrowd.Understandingyourownhead,yourownheart—that is the first step to creating something you will stand behind. Ieventuallyconfessedmytruefeelingsaboutthesetwodesserts.ButItookitonestepfurther.Ipinpointedtheproblemsandexaminedtheflawswithaconstructiveeye.
Onedayinmykitchen,IdecidedthatIwouldmakeanappletartTatinmyway.Ratherthancuttingtheapples intosegmentsaswastraditionallydone, Ipeeledeachappledelicatelyandkept itwhole.Amemoryof thepommed’amourflashedinmymind.Irememberedhowthepossibilityofeating awhole applehadbeen so alluring.Andwhen I baked the entireapple in its own mold, I discovered that this eliminated the problem ofoversweetening the fruit with caramel. Even when baked through, theinner core would retain the juiciness and the firmness of a fresh apple.WhenIsteppedbackandtookavictoriousbiteofmytweakedversion,IrealizedthatIhadusedtwodessertsthatIdislikedasinspirationtocreateonethatIlove.Ifyoudon’tlikesomething,don’tavoidit—improveit.
ONEBITEOFCHOUQUETTE
There’sone itemyoucan find in everybakery inFrance,butnota singleFrenchbakeryinNewYork.Chouquettesaretinyballsofpâteàchoux,theegg-baseddoughthatmakesupthebaseoféclairsandcreampuffs.Theyareleftunfilledandspeckledwithpearlsugargranulesthatlooklikewhitepolkadotsfromadistance.
Bakers traditionallyused leftoverbatter fromotherchouxdough–basedpastries tomake basketfuls of chouquettes.Andwhile buying breads andviennoiseries in France, I’d always add on an order of chouquettes as asnack.Soldbyweight in someplaces and inbatchesof tenor twenty inothers, the shopkeeper shoveled these treats intoawaxpaperbagwithalargescoop,andIwouldhappilypoptheminmymouthonthewayhome.
It was not a delicate product. Without fancy shapes, fillings, oradornments, chouquettes seldom sat in the prime location on the displaycounter. But something about the way the pearl sugar crunched slightlywitheachbitewonmyheart.Andthelight,popover-liketexture—toastedontheoutsideandeggyandsoftwithin—madethemsoeasytoeat.Bitebybite,I’demptyawholebagwithoutrealizingit.
ThechouquetteswereahardselltoNewYorkerswhohadn’tgrownupwith them.Customersalways seemeddisappointed to findout that itwas“nothing special.” It didn’t promise to open new doors to flavors andtextures. It didn’t dazzle. No wonder it never became popular in the UnitedStates,Ithought.ButthequestionIcouldn’tstopaskingmyselfwas:HowdiditbecomesopopularinFrance?
Towardtheendofeachdayinthebakery,Ihadahabitof lookingatwhichpastrieswerethelasttosellout.Predictably,thechouquettewasoneofthem.Oneday,fifteenminutesbeforethedoorsclosed,acouplewalkedin and perused our final offerings—and both picked an order of tenchouquettes. They politely asked our cashier to help service them morequicklyastheyweretryingtocatchamoviethatwasstartingsooninthetheateruptheblock.
Alightbulbwentoninmyhead.Thechouquettewasn’tsimilartoanybakeryitemIhadseeninNewYork,butitwasverysimilartooneitemofferedineverymovietheaterthroughoutthecity:popcorn.Theritualofeatingbothwassimilar.Youcarryitinabag.Youmunchonafewwhiledoing something else. It was something that was casual, to be enjoyedwithoutconsumingyourfullattention,likeapleasantsoundtrackplayinginthebackground.
From that day on, I combined these two treats, using the crunch ofcaramelizedpopcornkernelstoaddfurthertexturetothechouquettes.Andbitebybite,thecustomershoppedonthebandwagon.
Sometimes, the key to creation is the process of hunting for naturalcompatibilities.Likematchmaking,we search for soulmates.And thoughpopcorn and chouquettes come from different fields, cultures, and eventimes,oursensesconfirmedthattheybelongedtogether.
Whenthechouquetteswereremovedfromthemenutomakeroomfornewofferings,theybecameoneofthethingsourregularsoftenaskfortothisday.“Ineverreallyknewabout itbeforeItried ithere,”acustomertoldme. “But somethingmademe feel like I had been eating it allmylife.”
6
EverythingButtheFlavor
Onewinter,Ihadoneofthoseflusthatwouldn’tgoaway.Andwhileasmallsinusproblemisunpleasantforanyone,forachefitcan be debilitating. I could no longer detect the depth andcomplexityofsweet,salty,sour,andbitteronmytongue.Takeabite of an apple and an onion the next time you have a stuffynose.You’llfindthemindistinguishable.
Liketheplot toatragedy,Iwasachefwhocouldnottaste.Butthenthings started to change. The human mind and body evolve andcompensate.Ifyoulosesightinoneeye,yourvisionintheothernaturallyadjusts.Knockoutonesense,andtheothersintensify.Andjustasclosingyour eyes helps you hear your surroundings better, I began to see thisdisadvantageasanopportunitytofocusonmoresubtleaspectsoffood.
Whenyoureadarestaurantreview,somuchofwhatisdescribedistheflavorofeachdish.Doesgrapefruitworkwellwithchocolate?Woulditbeabettermatchwithrosemary?Howwastheseasoning?Thesearethetypesof decisions on ingredients and seasoning chefs consider daily. Butwhenyoucan’ttaste,youstarttonoticealltheothertraits.
Thischapterisaboutthingsyoumayhaveonceoverlooked.ByleavingcustomersinthedarkaboutthespecificingredientsinmySunflowerTart,Iletthemexperienceanentirelynewspectrumofflavors.Irecountthestoryof the Frozen S’more,my take on a nostalgic campfire treat, and how awoodenbranchhelpedmeredefineboundaries.Substitutesarecommoninrecipes, but in the storyof themuch-lovedMontBlanc and its signaturetowerofchestnutcream,the ingredientthat is thesubstitutebecomesthestar.Iexplainhowcertainflavorstaste“warm”withmyversionofabakedAlaska, and reveal my quest to find a taste for the color purple in thePurpleTart.And last, I talkabout thearlette,amagnificentcookiewhosefragilityisitsstrength.
Sometimeswecansufferfromacaseofnearsightedness.Inconcerts,wezoominontheleadvocalistandforgetthebandthatsupportshimorher.We notice the vibrant red roses in a bouquet before we appreciate thebaby’sbreaththatbuffersthem.We’reoftenblindedbytheobvious.Inthischapter,Ifindinspirationinwhat’softenignored.
Icouldn’tcookas I recovered fromthe flu.All Icoulddowas think.Beforebed, I jotteddown some ideas fornewdesserts.Whenmy sensesfinally recovered, I returned to thekitchen andhadmy first official tastetest.Theybecamesomeofmyfavoritecreationstodate.
THESUNFLOWERTARTILLUSION
A few years ago, I drank an amazing cup of hot chocolate. It had adistinctive nuttiness, as if the cocoa beans had been roasted fresh thatmorning.AfterImadeafewattemptstodiscernthetypeofchocolatetheyused, the chef finally toldme that the “secret” was caramel. There wasabsolutelynothingextraordinaryaboutaddingcarameltohotchocolate,butthefactthattheyhadn’tspecifieditwasacaramelhotchocolatemadethetouchunexpected.Withoutthedescription,thefamiliarflavorwashardtopinpoint. Until someone pointed it out. I took another sip of the hotchocolate,andthereitwas—Icouldtastethecaramelnotesdistinctly.
How the wheels in the mind begin to turn before any food hits the tongue, Ithought. The briefest encounter can leave deep-rooted memories—particularly when it comes to taste.Mention an ingredient andwe can’thelpbutprocess,project,andexpanduponit.Asacourtesy,Ihadalways
thought it good practice to list the key ingredients of my desserts forcustomers.ButonthedayIcreatedtheSunflowerTart,Ibrokethishabit.
TheSunflowerTart,contrarytoitsname,didnotcontainanysunflowerseeds—orinfactanythingrelatedtoasunflower.Rather,itwasamonikerbased purely on aesthetics. Thin, mandoline-sliced pieces of ripe fruitsurrounded a gelée center that was adorned with a sprinkling of poppyseeds.Assembledwith anombréoforange,gold, and auburn tones fromthe fruit, the tart resembled its eponymous flower and was a tantalizingsighttobehold.
Butjustwhatwasinit?Theingredientswere“secret,”andsurprisingly,very few customers asked. When I asked them to guess what theingredientswereontheirown,theanswerswerefascinating.Withoutanyguidelines,theypickedupnotesoflavenderandviolet,melonandbutter,and all sorts of exotic blossoms and fruits. In reality, the tart was acombinationofpassionfruit,apricot,andhoney.Iaddedahintofaspiceblendthatcontainedlemonpeel,saffron,andpeppercorn,whichamplifiedtheripenessofthefruit.
Passion fruit and apricot are not unusual flavors in the pastry world;they’re a natural pair with their balance of sweet and tart. But with itsingredientsunstatedanddescriptionminimal, theunassuming tart inspiredmycustomerstoprojectlayerafterlayerofextraflavors.Thefinaltouchofimagination in any creation can sometimes be left to be filled in bysomeoneelse.Keepingthings“secret”isnotsomuchaboutprotectionasitisaboutexploration.Theunknownisawildlyimaginativeplace.
AS’MOREFORALLSEASONS
The s’more has always caughtmy eye. Themesmerizingway the ambercharspreadsacrossthesurfaceofthemarshmallowasitroastsoverthefire.How the white core oozes under the pressure of the graham crackerssandwichingit.Andhowthemoltenchocolatepeeksoutfromthebottomastheheatbeginstomeltit.
What really stole my attention, however, was the wooden branchstickingthroughthemarshmallowasitroastedoverthefire.Itmadeforatool for both cooking and eating—a handle with a real functionalsignificance:itmadethes’morefinger-friendlyandfun.Amarshmallowonaforkorplatewouldnevercarrythatsamespirit.
One summer,NewYork experienced record-breaking temperatures inan excruciating heat wave that lasted throughout July. Most of thecustomers wanted lemonade and couldn’t stomach much more. Walkingdownthestreetfromthestorebeneaththeblisteringsun,Ibegantonoticeawhole lot of people holding ice cream cones and Popsicles. Ice creamconesandPopsiclesconvenientlycamewith theirownhandle.Sodoes thes’more,Ithought.
Back in the kitchen, I began towork on an ice cream version of thes’moretostanduptothesesummertimetreats.Thefirststepwastocreateamarshmallow thatwouldn’t freeze solid butwould remain chewywiththehelpofhoneyinsteadofsugar.Withinit,Icreatedacoreofsoftvanillaicecreamcoatedwithchocolate-covered feuilletinetomimicthecrunchofgrahamcrackersandprovideahintofchocolate.Thewholethingwasthenskeweredwithawillowwoodbranch,whichIsmokedwithapplewoodtomimic the smell of a campfire. Each Frozen S’morewas then torched toorderforcustomers.
SeeingtoastedmarshmallowsonbranchesbeingcarrieddowntheSoHostreetsinthemiddleofasummerdaywassurreal.Itintriguedanyonewhopassed by to ask what the very familiar yet seemingly out-of-place itemwas.Allthisfromahumblewoodenbranch.
The world speaks to each of us in a particular language. You see apuddle on the street and simply jump over it, but a photographermightstopandappreciatethebeautyofthesky’sreflectionwithinit.Aprettygirl
turnsyourheadwhileafashiondesignerraisesaneyetoacknowledgethedrapeofherdress.Whenweimmerseourselvesinaspecificfield,welearnthecadencesofthatparticularlanguage.Ilookatas’moreandseenotjusthowit’smade,buthowitcouldbemade.Experienceandexpertisehelpustransformfromappreciatorstocreatorswhoseeendlesspossibility.
“ILOOKATAS’MOREANDSEENOTJUSTHOWIT’SMADE,BUTHOWITCOULDBEMADE.”
ASWEETPOTATOSUBSTITUTE
Theword“substitute”inducesaninstantheadacheforanychef.Hereatthebakery,wealwaystryourbesttoaccommodate.Wereplace
flourwithgluten-freealternatives;wecutoutnutswhenwecan.Theextrastep, the added effort—thatwas neverwhat vexedme about substitutes.What I hated was the stigma around the backup ingredient. Substitutesresult from limitations; they are seen as secondary to the original. Asubstitutesuggestsit’snot“thewayitwasintendedtobe.”
Aroundthetimeofwritingthisbook,Ibecamefascinatedwiththeideaofsubstitutes.Iunderstoodtheirplaceandnecessityincertainrecipes.TaketheclassicFrenchMontBlanc,apastrynamedafterafamousmountainandinterpreted through a tower of chestnut cream surrounding meringue,orangemarmalade,andwhippedcream.WesourceourchestnutsdirectlyfromAubenasinFranceeveryfallandwinter,butasIwaswritingthelistofingredientstoincludeinthisrecipe,IwonderedwhetherthehomecookcouldfindtheminasupermarketintheStates.
Monthslater,lostinthoughtatthedinnertableonThanksgivingDay,Itookbiteafterbiteofcandiedsweetpotato.Andinamomentofclarity,I
realized the textural similarities between that and chestnut purée. Bothwere smooth, creamy, and slightly sweet. But only one had the addedbenefitofbeingaccessibletothehomecook.
IwokeupthenextmorningandheadedimmediatelytothekitchentocreateaSweetPotatoMontBlanc.NeverhadIexperiencedaningredientthatsonaturallyadopteditsnewrole.ThestrikingcolorofthecreamasImoldeditintotheshapeofamountainpeaklookedliketheterra-cottaoftheRockiesratherthantheharshergrayrocksofMontBlanc.Thesweetpotatocreamblendedseamlesslywiththeorangemarmaladeandmeringue.AndtherewasabutteryqualitytothemixturethatsurpassedtheversionImadewithchestnuts.
Whatbeganasasubstituteingredientendedupastheheroformynewfalldessert.With themore familiar ingredient,customerswhowereonceintimidated by the Mont Blanc now enjoyed the new incarnation. TheSweet Potato Mont Blanc was received like a star, rather than anunderstudy.
This dessert taughtme to bewary of judging ingredients prematurely.It’salessonthathascarriedovertoallaspectsofmylife.Itrynottoputtoomuchstockinreputations.Theysoeasilyundercutaningredient’s—oraperson’s—potential.Manyofthemostfamoussingerstodaystartedoffasbackup for a then-more-popular band.Greatmenwereonce assistants tosomeoneelse.Justbecauseoneitemortopicisn’tplayingakeyrolenowdoesn’tmeanitwon’texcel inthefuture.Every inspirationis lookingforitsbigbreak.
BAKINGPIEINALASKA
“What makes the desert beautiful,” said the Little Prince in Antoine deSaint-Exupéry’snovel,“isthatsomewhereithidesawell.”It’soneofthefewlinesIcanrecallfromreadingthebookinschool.Somethingaboutitmademedream.Anoasis,hiddenwithinthesandydunesofthedesert,istheperfectmetaphorforhopeandpossibility.
IthoughtofthisquotewhenIfirsttastedthebakedAlaska.Itcametothe table roaringwith flames. Iwatched themeringue slowlydarkenandflambéunder its fieryhalo.Butwhile its entrancewasgrand, thedessertturnedouttoberatherbland.
“Itprettymuchjust tastes likespongecakeand icecream,”mydiningcompanion said. She dispelled the fantasy as I took my first bite. But Iwasn’tcontenttoletthatbe.Thepromiseoffireandiceholdssomuchpotential,Ithought.Iwasdeterminedtofindawaytocarrytheseflavorsbeyondthebaked Alaska’s surface. For weeks, I approached this challenge like aRubik’scube,shiftingblockstotrytomatchupthepieces.
I began to research how food scientistsmade hot ice cream.Readingvolumesofexperiments,Ilearnedhowtousefoodgumsandhydrocolloidswithunpronounceablenames.Thebizarre,foreigningredientsinmoleculargastronomyhadalwaysintriguedbutintimidatedme.
Finally,Itookastepback.Iwasfocusingonthescienceratherthanthetaste. I had forgotten that certain ingredients naturally “taste” like atemperature.Mint feels cooling to the throat even after being steeped inhotwater for tea.Chile pepper flakes add heat to a cold salad.And thebeautyoftheseingredientsisthatnotoneofthemwasmanufacturedinalab.
With four flavors of ice cream and sorbet—green apple Calvados,caramel, smoked cinnamon, and vanilla—I constructed the flavors ofmybakedAlaska.Itoastedsalted-buttercookiestocoatthebottomandsides.When Iwas done, I sharedmy creationwithmy team. “It tastes like awarmapplepieàlamode,”onepersonsaid.Ofcourse,thedessertwasn’tservedwarm,butIunderstoodexactlywhatshemeant.
We’retaughtinthisworldthatnothingworthwhilecomeseasily,andsoweoftenassumethatthedifficultpathistherightone.ButasIstruggled
toimprovethebakedAlaska,Irealizedthattomakesomethingbetter,youdon’talwayshavetoripitapart.Instead,ifyouidentifytherighttweaks,you can effect great change with the smallest gesture. You just have towanderinadesertforawhiletofindanoasis.
Ioncehearda storyabout astronauts,whichmayormaynotbe true.Upinspace,theystruggledtowritewithballpointpens,whichnolongerworkedwithoutgravitytopulldowntheink.Engineersstartedtodevelopspecializedspacepens thatwerepressurizedchambersandcouldwriteonceilingsonearth,too.Butthesimplersolution,ofcourse,wasjusttouseapencil.
WHATPURPLETASTESLIKE
Weliveinacolorfulworld,andourmindsareconstantlyinterpretingwhatthese colors mean. You pick through the mangoes stacked on thesupermarketshelvestofindarichorangeskinthatsignifiesthefruitisripefor eating. Faint specks of greenwarn you that the bread is rotten. Thedeepeningamberas caramel cooks reads likea thermometer and letsyouknow to take the pot off the heat before the caramel turns bitter fromburning. When it comes to food, color has always been an indicator ofwhat’stocome.Butwhatdoesthecoloractuallytastelike?
EarlyautumnisharvestseasoninupstateNewYork.AndoneOctober,I was lucky to spend an afternoon combing through the bushes to pickfresh blackberries at a farm. Driving back into the city, I snacked on acartonofblackberriesandreturnedtothebakerytofindmyhands,teeth,andtonguestainedaninkypurple.ItgavemetheideaforthePurpleTart.
The dessert features a combination of blackberries, dark plums, andConcordgrapes.Thefruitsareseldomusedinarecipetogether,butwithmy newfound appreciation for color, they seemed to belong in the samefamily.I tastedeachonecarefully.Purplefruitsaren’texactlysweet,as isthecasewithredstrawberriesor raspberries.Theyall shareda lightedgefrom the tannins of the skin and a deep, wine-like flavor. Colorcoordinatingbecameanewwaytodiscovercompatibletastes.
Oureyes trumpour tastebudswhen itcomes tocolor,andwe forgethowcolor affectsour senseof taste aswell asour sight.We’ve all tastedcolor—thinkoftheraw,vegetaltasteofchlorophyllfromgreenfruits.ThePurpleTartremindedmetouseallmysenses,andtothinkwithmyeyes,ears,fingers,nose,andtastebudstomakeconnectionsbetweeningredientsIhadn’tbefore.
Poetsdescribewordsassweetandheartsasfull.Perfumerscreatescentsthatsmellbeautiful.Whatifwecouldunderstandwhatitisliketohearasunsetorseemusic?Imaginewhatthefutureholdsifweaccessitwithalloursenses.
THEBREAKABLEARLETTE
Whattypeofwatchdoyouwear—digitalormechanical?Ifitisthelatter,askyourselfwhy.Amechanicalwatchisadevicefromanoldergeneration.Many are not waterproof; they are less accurate and come with feweradded functions. The digital watch, with its slicker shape and moreconvenientuse,wasmeanttobeamodernalternative.Itislesscostlyandmoredurable,andevenoffersmorewearablecomfort.Butwhy is it thatdigitalwatcheshaven’tcompletelyreplacedtheclassicmechanicalwatch?
The answer to that question led me to the arlette. The lesser-knowncousinofapalmier,thearlettetakesalotmoreworkandturnsouttobeamorefragileproduct.Andyet,itisoneofmymostbelovedpastries.Madewithlaminateddoughcoatedinsugar,thearlettestartsoffasathree-inchsegmentthat isdelicatelystretchedwitharollingpin intoaten-inch-longoval.Youknowit’sreadytobakewhenyoucanseetheclearshadowofyourhandbehindthedoughasyouholdituptothelight.
Said to have originated in the south of France, the beautifullycaramelized cookie is as thin as a leaf and features concentric rings thatlook like agate stone. A bit of gentle pressure between your thumb andforefinger, anddelicatepiecesbreakoff, eachbutterybite almostmeltingonyourtongue.Myfavoritewaytoeatthearletteistosmashitupontopof ice cream and scoopup the flaky pieceswith a spoon as they slightlysoftenwiththemeltingcream.
I’vealwayswonderedwhythearletteissolittleknown,evenbypastrychefsinFrance.Thefragilityandtheresultinginconvenienceofthearlettekeep it from earning a place next tomoremainstream bakery selections.Mostbakersopttomakethemoreuser-friendlypalmier,whichcanbeuptotentimesthickerandat leasthalfagainthesize.ButI lovethearlettebecause it reminds me of an heirloom mechanical watch. The skill andfinesse required to make such a beautiful object mean it should betreasured. Fragile can in fact mean precious; challenging can meanrewarding.As Icreate, I setmyowndefinitions,andIchoose to see thebrightersideeverytime.
Asachef,Ineverhavetheopportunitytowearwatches,sinceworkinginthekitchenmeanskeepingone’swristsandhandsfreeofaccessories.In
mywhole life, Ihaveownedjustone—anoldpocketwatchI foundinavintagestore. Itno longer tells time,but I love themasterfulwheelsandmechanismswithin it. Its new function has an even higher goal—that ofinspiration.
7
NEVERRUNOUTOFIDEAS
Ihadneverspentsomuchmoneyonapieceofclothingbefore.The crisp white button-down cost forty francs, and for me, itamountedtomanydays’worthofsalary.Irememberunwrappingitcarefullyandputtingituponahangerinmycloset.Itwasmyfirst“adult”shirt,andIimaginedmyselfwearingitforthebetter,moreformaloccasionsinthefuture.Whenthetimefinallycame,manyyears later,Islippedmyarmsthroughthe sleeves of the shirt—still with its label attached—and looked in the
mirror. The sleeveswere two inches short of reachingmywrists. In thetimethathadpassedwiththeshirthangingprotectedanduntouchedinmyclosest,Ihadoutgrownit.
Savingthebestforlastisagreatconceptintheory,butitcanleadyoutowastethat“best”altogether.Thisisespeciallytrueintherealmofideas.Howmany ideashaveyouhungon to,keptburied in theclosetofyourmind, too precious to share? We wait for an ideal moment; we giveourselves an eternity to strategize. All the while, we forget there areexpirationdates.Wearesubject toanever-evolvingworld.What isnewandinnovativetodaymaynotbetomorrow.
At the bakery,we change ourmenu every six to eightweeks,whichrequires that we generate fresh ideas consistently. Of course, it takes awhile toget to the reallygood stuff.When I sitdownwithmy team toplananewmenu,thefirstcoupleofsuggestionsarealwaysfragmentedandunspectacular. We shout them out, brainstorming, without much carewhethertheyarechosenornot.It’sallpartofthewarm-up.Thehardpartis persuading people to release those precious “best” ideas they keepguardedlikethekingonachessboard.
There’safearthatwewon’tevercomeacrossanything“asgood.”Thatwe’llendupbeingaone-hitwonder.Havealittlefaithinyourself.It’snotaboutreleasingoneideaintotheworld,butembracingideagenerationasalifestyle.Ideasmustbeseen,heard,touched,andtastedtobecomereal.Letthemlive;otherwisetheyaremerelyghostsinourheads.
Thestories includedinthischapterfeaturesomeofmynewest ideas.Italkabouthowgingerbreadinspiredmetobuildnothouses,butpineconessnow-dustedwithconfectioners’sugar.Believeitornot,someofmybestideas,suchastheChocolateCaviarTart,camefromdreams.Ialsoexploredisguising certain desserts by using tools meant for one in another’spreparation,andyou’ll seehowwhenIdescribe theAppleMarshmallow.AndIendwithmymostrecentobsession:findingawaytoletcustomersaddthefinaltouch,asisthecasewiththe“LimeMeUp”Tart.
IonceattendedadinnerwhereourhostuncorkedabottleofChâteauMargaux1978,aBordeauxwinethatwasasoldasIwas.Theoccasionwasnothingworthnoting,anditfeltabitwastefulashetoppedoffmyglass.But thenIremindedmyself:wineshouldbedrunk,chocolateseaten,andnew clothingworn.Have confidence that there is always a better future
ahead.Iraisedmyglassinatoast.Cheers,Ithought,asIheardaroundofclinks.Here’stoneverrunningoutofideas.
GINGERBREADNEEDNOTBEHOUSES
AfewblocksawayfromthecomplexwhereIgrewupwasaconstructionsite,andIwalkedpastitdailyonmywaytoschool.Inthefirstfewweeks,a wooden frame lay upon the ground. Once the foundations were set,beamswereerectedandthewallsclimbedupwarduntilfinallyitcametimefortheceilingtobeinstalled.
Forcenturies,pastrieswereconstructedinverymuchthesameway.Atartorcakeisbuiltupwardwithcreamas“cement”betweenthelayersofspongeandgarnishedwithanornamentor“cherryontop.”Andthiswasthe way I started to construct last winter’s new dessert, which featuredgingerbread.Ilayeredthinpiecesofchocolateontopofoneanotherwithalightginger-spicedmousse inbetweento“glue”thestructuretogether.Itwassturdy,buthadallthecharismaofabrickwall.
We build houses with wood, concrete, and nails, but surely we could drawinspiration from other structures for desserts, I thought. I began to notice theway other animals in nature construct their dwellings. How a spiderweb
spiralsfromthecentertotheoutside.Thehoneybeehiveslowlyfillsinthespaceof crevices.And there’smagicbehind thewaynaturecreateseverysnowflake.
WithChristmasjustaroundthecorner,therestoftheteamgatheredforour little tree-lighting ceremony in the greenhouse behind the bakery. Iarrived to seeabeautifully lit tree,but Ialsonoticeda singularpineconeornamentonatablenearby.FromadistanceIhadmistakenitforacake.Thatbecamethecornerstoneformyidea.
Thenextday,Ipipedasoftgingerbread-spicedmousseinaspiraltower.Rather than building my dessert from bottom to top, I carefully placedmore thansixty smallpiecesofchocolate, thesizeandshapeofpineconescales,aroundthedessert.Alightdustingofconfectioners’sugar,andallofasudden,itlookedlikeasolitarypinecone,coveredwithsnow.
Ifitwereuptomostcooks,gingerbreadwouldbebuiltintohouses,notpinecones.Butwhy not think like a bee or a spider and take inspirationfrom Mother Nature? Ants were constructing colonies in the sand longbefore man sought temporary shelter in a cave. We put into practice asmallpercentageofwhat’spossible.Entireuniversesexistwithinourown,andwearefreetoborrowasweplease.
ATARTFROMADREAM
In our dreams, we can be anyone, and anywhere, we want to be. Wecontroltime,space,andthesequenceofevents.Andeverything,nomatterhow outlandish it may seem when we wake, feels completely natural.Dreamworldsdonotfollowtherulesofreality,andwhattakesplacethereisoftenimprobable.Butimpossible?That’sanotherquestionentirely.
I keep a small journal next to my bed, and I jot down ideas fromdreams.Therearebutafewminutestorecall thembeforetheyslipfrommymemory.TheChocolateCaviarTartcametomeinonesuchdream.Init, Ienteredabrightly litbanquet room.Theclinkofglassware rangoutabovethesteadymurmuroftheguests.SomehowIendedupseatedatthetable,whereawaiterdressed inablack jacket servedmeanentire tinofcaviar. I took a bite.And rather than the salty brine of sturgeon eggs, Itastedchocolate instead.Bite afterbite, Iplungedmy spoon into the tin.When I woke up, I could still feel the chocolate pearls rolling on mytongue.
IrealizedIcouldcreatethissamechocolatecaviarinreallife.Itwasaneleganttechnique.Imixedalightchocolateganacheandaddedgelatinsothatwhenthedropletsofthewarmmixturehitcoldoil,itwouldsetintoperfectspheres.Usingatartshellasthecaviar“tin,”Ifilledtheinsidewithanairycoffeecreamandtoppeditgenerouslywiththechocolatepearls.Aquenelleofwhippedcreamsatontop,mimickingthecrèmefraîchethatistraditionallyofferedasacaviarcondiment.
Indreams,youneverhavetoobeytherulesoflogic.Nobodytellsyouthat something is too expensive or too difficult to do. There are nonaysayers.Simplyimagine,anditbecomesreal.Whyshouldn’talldreamsbe the roots fromwhich action should grow?TheWright brothersmostcertainlydreamtofflyingbeforetheyconstructedanairplane.Anddespiteflightseeminglikean“impossible”questatfirst,allitneededwasjustabitofwork.Let’sbringthatsamemind-settothekitchen.Ifwethinkthewaywedream,whatwonderscouldwecreate?
The Chocolate Caviar Tart was a popular item over the New Yearholidays.OnNewYear’sEve,Ibroughtalargetartasdesserttoafriend’sgathering.Afterdinner,Itookittothetableandpositionedit infrontof
myplace setting so that I couldhelp serve it. Itwas at that point that IrealizedIhadseentheexactsamescenebefore.Ithadbeenadreamandnowwasareality.
THEMARSHMALLOW’SDISGUISE
In theGreekmyths, the gods fromOlympus had a fondness for comingdowntoearth indisguise.Aphrodite threwona raggedcape tohideherbeauty.Zeus transformedhimself into ahaggardoldman.Andwhen thegreat heroes came in contact with these camouflaged gods, how theytreated them could result in an offer of great help or the curse of epicpunishment.
The idea of disguise has always intrigued me. I love the surprise ofsomething unexpected. There’s a joy in being outsmarted. And after theintrigue,thefinaldiscoveryfeelslikeareward.
Todaythingsareabitmorestraightforward.Howmanytimeshaveyouhad a dessert that ended up tasting different or unexpected compared tohowitlooked?Whatyouseeiswhatyouget.
Just afterValentine’sDay, I usually reorganize the kitchen equipment,packing away all the plastic molds I purchased to build chocolates indifferent shapes.Last time,when I returned from the storagecupboard, IrealizedIhadmissedone.
Asmallplasticmoldintheshapeofanapplewasleftonmydesk.Whatif I give it another function? I thought. What if this mold could create achocolate“disguise” foranothermedium? Inchoosing theperfect foil forthedark,rock-solidchocolate,Iselectedthewhiteandfluffymarshmallow.
I decided to make an Apple Marshmallow. First, I lightly coated themoldwithtemperedchocolatetocreateashell.Afteritwasset,Ifilledtheinterior with tender vanilla marshmallow and a liquid caramel core. Itlooked likeanapple,hada shellofchocolate,butwas filledwithvanillaand caramel. Every bite revealed an unforeseen twist. Each new layerdeepenedthedessert’scharacter.
WhenIcreatesomethingnew,Ithinkaboutthefinalreveal,butIalsothinkabouthowmycustomerreachesthatpoint.Itshouldbeaprocessofdiscovery. As the saying goes, “Never judge a book by its cover.” Younever know what you’ll find on the last page. And creations shouldcaptivateyoufrombeginningtoend.
ABESPOKELIMETART
“Nonfat,half-caf,extrafoam,extrahot,soylatte,”cametheordertothebaristaatourbakery.
“Soit’stheusual,then,”sheresponded,andbegantomakethedrink.Ihavealwaysbeenasingleespressokindofguy.Butitamazesmehow
specific an individual coffee order can be. Even the most complex ofrequests,althoughittakesafewsecondstoprocess,canbemet.Youcangetyourcoffeeexactlythewayyoulikeit.
It’s a natural human instinct to want to personalize. We expressourselves through the clotheswewear, themusicwe listen to, andeventhescreensaverweselectonourcomputersandphones.Inanidealworld,at the bakery we would be able to customize everything to meet eachcustomer’sindividualpreferences.Butonadailybasistherearelimits.Wehave to create based on general opinions. Ingredients like chocolate andcaramel, forexample,are typically lovedandconsideredsafebets foranypastrychef.Theyarecrowd-pleasersandinstantlywinafanbase.Butonceinawhile,aconsensusishardtoreach.
Itwasthethirdtimetheteamhadgatheredtotaste-testthespringlimetart and nobody could agree on the right seasoning. What one personfound to be sour, another thought was cloyingly sweet. Some suggestedaddingapinchofsalt,whileotherspreferredtomaintainthelime’spurity.Thefeedbackonthissimpletartwasdramaticallypolarizing.
It felt like a tug-of-war of opinions, and we finally realized that wewouldn’tbeabletodecideonwhattheflavorintensityshouldbe.Eachofthestaffhadhisorherownpreferences.Andthat’swhenIhadathought:It’sthecustomerwhomustultimatelybetheonetochoose.
But how could we customize a pastry on the spot? It would beimpossible tobuild it fromscratch foreachperson.Thesolutioncame tomeonenightduringdinneratanItalianrestaurant,whenthewaiteraskedif anyone preferred to add cheese or pepper to the pasta. I found claritybehindtheideaofthesefinishingtouches.
Together,theteamandIdesignedasmallgrooveonthetopoftheKeylimemousse.A thinpieceofwhitechocolateheldwithin it amixtureofMaldon salt,brown sugar, andcrushed juniperberries, and to the side, a
freshwedge of lime.The three flavors featured in the tart—sweet, salty,and sour—eachhad its ownmodifiers, and the customers could adjust totheir tastesaccordingly.Eachpersoncouldadd thedesiredamountof thesugarandsaltmixtureandsqueezethefreshjuiceoftheKeylimetohisorherliking.
Itwasastepinanewdirection.Onethatofferedachanceforsomeoneotherthanthecheftomodifyadish.Itallowedthecustomertoparticipateintheprocessandtohavethefinalword.Creationasajointeffortissurelytobecomeawayofthefuture.
RECIPES
BEGINNER
INTERMEDIATE
ADVANCED
ATOASTBEFOREBAKING
Midnightandeveryoneelsehadleftthekitchen.Theresoundingvoices and clankingofmachineryduring thedaytimehad fallenintoabsolutesilence.Allaloneinahalf-litbasement,Istaredatwhatseemedaninsurmountableobstacle:Ihadtoglazeafrozenmoussecake.
The instructions were simple: gently warm up chocolate ganache andpour it over the cakeuntil it formed an even, gleaming coat.Nomatterhow hard I tried, it just didn’t work. If the glaze wasn’t heated upsufficiently, it would cool upon contact with the frozenmousse and theflowwouldslowlikehardeninglavabeforeenvelopingtheentirecake.Ifitwere heated up too long, the ganachewould reduce and thicken,whichwouldalsoinhibititsabilitytosmoothlydrizzleoverthecake.Eachoneof
my attempts resulted in bubbles and ripples. And I knewwhenmy chefsurveyeditthenextday,Iwouldgetreprimandedforthepoorresults.
SothereIwas,onmyownwithachallengeandnofurtherdirectiononhowtoovercomeit.Itwasmythirdnightinthekitchen,andIwaspullingmyhair out forwhat felt like inescapable defeat. “I did exactly as Iwastold,” I said out loud, desperate for some sort of help.The empty roomhadnoanswersforme.
Forsomereason,Iturnedupthefireandbegantoheatuptheglazeashot as I could, just under the boiling point. And then I decided to addwater to increase its fluidity. I was sure my chef would have seen themethodasanabomination.WhathaveIgottolose?Ithought.
I positioned the frozen cake beneath my steaming-hot, watered-downganacheandpoureditoverthesurfaceofthecake.Iwatchedasitrolledthrougheachcreviceandfelldownthesidesandthroughthegapsofthewire rack. I stepped back. Theworkwas pristine. Every corner coveredwithanevenandfluidlayerofchocolateganache.
Thatnight,Ibrokeeveryrule.Andwhat’smore,Irealizedthatitwasmydutytobreakthem.Iftherulesdon’tworkforyou,makeupnewonesthat do.Whenyougo through the recipes that follow, youmay face anempty kitchen, as I did that night. I won’t be there to answer yourquestionsorgivepointers.Butdon’tbe afraid to try, and toexperiment,andtolookforanalternativethatworksforyou.Youmayfindthatbakingthings in a hotter oven yields better results for you, or that you like towhiskyourganachewithahandblender.“Whynot?”I’dsay.That’s thereallessonofcookingandcreating.
ThenightI finishedproperlyglazingmycake, ImademyselfacupofhotchocolatefromtheleftoverganachethatIhadusedastheglaze.Everydropwasacelebration.Thisbecamemygo-tohotchocolate,anditistheveryfirstrecipeIwillsharewithyou.
ANOTEONMEASUREMENTS
Before you turn the page, I want to share a few words onmeasurements. Recipes can list the quantities of ingredients byvolumeorbyweight.IntheUnitedStates,bakersusemeasuringcups
and spoons to determine volume. Elsewhere, bakers use the metricsystemtodetermineweight.I’veprovidedbothinthisbook.
Here’s a tip: In the bakery, and in my kitchen at home, I rely on adigital precision scale to measure my ingredients by weight. Thequantitiescanvaryifyouuseameasuringcuporspoon.Youcanpackacupofflourtightlyorloosely.Youcangrateatablespoonoflemonzestroughlyorfinely.Butaprecisionscaleensuresthatthequantitiesare exact. I have tested these recipes with both types ofmeasurements,andtheresultsarealwaysdelicious.ButIhaveseenmore consistent results when I’ve weighed my ingredients. So if Icouldgiveyouonemorewordofadviceasyoubegintobake,itwouldbeto invest inadigitalprecisionscale.Youcanfindthemwherevercookingsuppliesaresold,bothinstoresandonline.
ANOTEONTIMING
Ialwaysrecommendreadingarecipethroughoncebeforestarting.Atthe beginning of each recipe, I’ve included the amount of “activetime”—thetimespentmeasuring,mixing,slicing,chopping,churning,cooking,andbakingthevariouscomponentsnecessarytocreatethesedesserts.Ihavenotincluded“inactivetime”—thetimespentresting,chilling, or proofing these components. Of course, all of thosedirections are all included in the recipe itself. I’ve also written atimeline for recipes that require more than one day to complete, togiveasenseofwhereyou’regoing,andwhereyou’vebeen.Ihopeyouenjoythejourney.
BEGINNERRECIPES
HOTCHOCOLATE
Ilovemakingthisrecipe...whenIneedtotakeamoment.You’dbesurprisedhowmuchcomfortamugofhotchocolatecanbring.
SKILLLEVELBeginnerTIME15minutes
YIELD8to10servings
INGREDIENTS
Wholemilk 7cups 1645grams
Darkchocolate(53%orhighercocoacontent),finelychopped
21/4cups 306grams
Unsweetenedcocoapaste,finelychopped 1/4cup 42grams
MiniMe’s(page116)ormarshmallows(page121)(forserving,optional)
asneeded asneeded
1.Bringthemilktoaboilinamediumpotoverlowheat.
2.Combinethechocolateandcocoapasteinamediumheatproofbowl.Pourthehotmilkoverthemandletstandfor30seconds.1
3.Whiskthechocolate,cocoapaste,andmilk,scrapingthebottomofthebowlwherethechocolatetendstosettle.
4.Whenthechocolateandcocoapastehavebeenincorporatedintothemilk,pourthedesiredamountintoyourfavoritemug.
1.Usingdifferenttypesofchocolateisagoodwaytocustomizeyourownblendofhotchocolate.
SERVING INSTRUCTIONS Serve hot, topped with Mini Me’s (page 116) ormarshmallows(page121).
STORAGE INSTRUCTIONS The chocolate milk can be kept in a closed airtightcontainer in the refrigerator forup to4days.Stir liberallyand reheatover lowheatwhendesired.
CHOCOLATEPECANCOOKIES
Ilovemakingthisrecipe...becauseofitsforgivingnatureandutterlyaddictiveresults.
SKILL LEVEL Beginner TIME 15minutes one day before; 20minutes the day ofYIELD20cookies(about13/4ounces/50gramseach)
TIMELINE
ONEDAYBEFOREMakedoughTHEDAYOFBake
INGREDIENTS
Darkchocolatechips(60%cocoacontentorgreater)
2cups 455grams
Unsaltedbutter(84%butterfat) 3tablespoons+1/2teaspoon 45grams
Granulatedsugar 1cup+2tablespoons+2teaspoons
250grams
Cornstarch 1/4cup 42gramsBakingpowder 3/4teaspoon 3.75grams
Koshersalt 1/2teaspoon 1gram
Wholeeggs(large),lightlybeaten 3each 3each(150grams)
Pecans,coarselychopped 1/4cup 55grams
ONEDAYBEFOREMAKEDOUGH
1.Melt11/2cups(340grams)ofthechocolatechips(setasideremainingchocolate)inadoubleboiler:Fillamediumpotwithabout3inches(7.5cm)waterandbringittoasimmer.Placethechipsinamediumheatproofbowlandplacethebowlsnuglyoverthewater.Stirslowlywithaheatproofspatulatoensurethatthechocolatechipsarecompletelymeltedandsmoothbeforeturningofftheheat.1
2.Meltthebutterinthemicrowave(about30secondsonhigh).Mixintothemeltedchocolatewiththespatula.Keepwarmoverthehotwater.
3.Combinethesugar,cornstarch,bakingpowder,andsaltinalargebowl.Addtheeggsandwhiskuntilfullyblendedandthemixtureresemblespancakebatter.Usethespatulatomakesureyouincorporateanydryingredientsthathavesettledonthebottomorsidesofthebowl.
4.Slowlywhiskinthemeltedchocolate–buttermixture.(Ifithascooledandbeguntosolidify,gentlyreheatitbeforeincorporating.)5.Gentlyfoldintheremaining1/2cup(115grams)chocolatechipsandthepecanswiththespatula.2
6.Transferthedoughtoashallowbakingdish.Coverwithplasticwrappresseddirectlyontothesurfaceofthebatter,topreventaskinfromforming.Refrigerateovernighttorest.
THEDAYOFBAKE
1.Placearackinthecenteroftheovenandpreheattheovento375°F(190°C)forconventionalor350°F(175°C)forconvection.Lineasheetpanwithparchmentpaper.
2.Usingyourhands,breakthedoughintopiecesthesizeofyourpalm(about31/2tablespoons/50grams).Rollthedoughintoballsandplacethemonthesheetpanatleast2inchesapartfromoneanother.Pressgentlyonthetopofeachballwiththepalmofyourhandtomakeathickdisk.Thisdoughdoesn’tspreadmuch,sothedisksshouldberelativelyclosetothesizeofcookieyou’dlike.
3.Bakeonthecenterrackfor4minutes.Rotatethepan180degreesandbakeforabout4minutesmore.Whenthecookiesarejustbeginningtocrackon
topbutthedoughissetontheedgeandhasasoftspotaboutthesizeofaquarterinthecenter,removefromtheoven.
4.Letthecookiescoolonthepanfor5to7minutes,tofurtherset.5.Removethecookiesfromthepanandsetaside.Relinethecooledpanwith
cleanparchmentpaperandcontinuewiththeremainingdough.
1.Ifevenadropofwatergetsintothechocolate,itcanseizeandturngrainy.Double-checkthatallequipmentisdryandthatthebowlcoverstherimofthepot,wellabovethewater,toavoidanysteam.
2. It’s great to make sure your ingredients are mixed well, but too much mixing overworks thedough and causes it to become tough. That’s why many great recipes call for a period for thedoughtorest.
SERVINGINSTRUCTIONSAllcookiesarebesteatenwhilewarm.Aglassofice-coldmilkhelps.
STORAGEINSTRUCTIONSThedoughcanbewrappedinplasticwrapandkeptintherefrigeratorfor3daysorfrozenforupto1week.(Thawintherefrigeratorforafew hours before baking.) The baked cookies can be kept in a closed airtightcontaineratroomtemperatureforupto2days.
MINIMADELEINES
Ilovemakingthisrecipe...becauseittakesonly5minutestobake(fasterthanboilingwater),andevenfastertoeat!
SKILLLEVELBeginnerTIME15minutesonedaybefore;15minutesperbatchthedayofYIELD100minimadeleines
TIMELINE
ONEDAYBEFOREMakebatterTHEDAYOFPipe,bake,andserve
SPECIALTOOLS
Microplane(forgratingzests)UncutpipingbagNonstickminimadeleinepanSmallsieve
INGREDIENTS
Unsaltedbutter(84%butterfat) 8tablespoons 115grams
Darkbrownsugar 1tablespoon 15grams
Honey 2teaspoons 15grams
Granulatedsugar 1/2cup 100gramsKoshersalt 1/2teaspoon 1gram
All-purposeflour,sifted 1cup 120grams
All-purposeflour,sifted 1cup 120grams
Bakingpowder 1/2teaspoon 4grams
Wholeeggs(large),atroomtemperature 3each 3each(150grams)
Gratedlemonzest 1/2lemon 1/2lemonGratedorangezest 1/2orange 1/2orange
Nonstickcookingspray asneeded asneeded
Confectioners’sugar(forserving) asneeded asneeded
ONEDAYBEFOREMAKEBATTER
1.Meltthebutter,brownsugar,andhoneyinamediumpotoverlowheat.Stirgentlywithaheatproofspatulatoensurethatnothingburns.Keepthemixturewarmoververylowheat,orreheatifnecessary.1
2.Combinethegranulatedsugar,salt,flour,andbakingpowderinalargebowlandmixwellwithawhisk.Formawellinthecenterofthedryingredientsandaddtheeggsonebyone,whiskingtoincorporateeachbeforeaddingthenext.2
3.Whentheeggsarefullyincorporatedandthebatterissmooth,slowlywhiskinthebuttermixture.Whiskinthelemonandorangezests.Thebatterwillstillberunnyandsimilarinconsistencytocakebatter.Coverwithplasticwrappresseddirectlyontothesurfaceofthebatter,topreventaskinfromforming.Refrigerateovernighttorest.3
THEDAYOFPIPE,BAKE,ANDSERVE
1.Placearackinthecenteroftheovenandpreheattheovento375°F(190°C)forconventionalor350°F(175°C)forconvection.4
2.Usingarubberspatula,place2largescoopsofbatterinapipingbagsothatitisone-thirdfull.Pushthebatterdowntowardthetipofthebag.
3.Cutanopeningabout1/2inch(1.25cm)straightacrossthetipofthebag.4.Holdthenonstickcookingsprayabout4inches(10cm)awayfroma
nonstickminimadeleinepanandsprayevenlyinallthecavities.5.Holdingthepipingbagata90-degreeangleabout1/2inch(1.25cm)above
thepan,pipethemadeleinebatterintothecavitiessothatitfillseachaboutthree-quartersofthewaytothetop.
6.Bakethemadeleinesfor2to21/2minutesonthecenterrack.Whenyouseethebatterpuffupinthecenter,rotatethepan180degrees.Bakefor2to2
1/2minutesmore,untilthesidesofthemadeleinesaregoldenblondandthecenterhasset.
7.Unmoldimmediately.Bangthecornerorsidesofthemadeleinepanagainstyourworksurfacesothatthefreshmadeleinesdropout.5
1.Usingdifferenttypesofhoneyisagreatwaytonaturallyflavormadeleines.I loveacaciaandwildflowerhoneys.
2.Useroomtemperatureeggstoavoidcoolingdownthebatter.Ifthebatteristoocold,thebuttermaycongealwhenyouaddit.
3.Manyrecipescontainingbakingpowderdowelltorestovernight.Thishelpswithrising,whichisespeciallyimportantforthemadeleine—apastrythatpuffsupinthecenterwhenitbakes.
4.Ingeneralforbakingpastries,setyouroventoconvectioniftheoptionisavailable.Thisallowstheheattoflowmoreevenly.It’sanidealsettingbecauseithelpspastriesbakeevenlyonallsides.
5. If you find that themadeleinesstick to themold, for thenextbatch, try sprayingabitmorecookingspray.Also,keepingthemoldcleanandwashingitthoroughlywithasoftspongeafterusewillalsopreventthemadeleinesfromsticking.
SERVING INSTRUCTIONS Using a small sieve, sprinkle confectioners’ sugar evenlyoverthefresh-bakedmadeleines.Eatimmediately(donotwaitmorethanevenafewminutes!).
STORAGE INSTRUCTIONSMadeleines are good only when freshly baked. Do notattempt to store them. However, you can keep the batter in a closed airtightcontainer,withplasticwrappressedontothesurface,intherefrigeratorforupto3days.
MINIME’S
Ilovemakingthisrecipe...andfindingallthewaysIcanaddalittlecrunchandtexturetootherdessertswithit.
SKILLLEVELBeginnerTIME1hour45minutesYIELD200meringues
SPECIALTOOLS
Instant-readthermometerUncutpipingbagAteco#804plaintip(3/8-inch/1cmdiameter)
INGREDIENTSSWISSMERINGUEConfectioners’sugar 21/4cups 266grams
Eggwhites(large) 4each 4each(120grams)
SUGGESTEDFLAVORINGS
SUGGESTEDFLAVORINGSGroundcinnamon 1/2teaspoon 1.5grams
Gratedlemonzest 1lemon 1lemonPeppermintextract 1teaspoon 5grams
1.Preheattheovento200°F(95°C)forconventionalor175°F(80°C)forconvection.
2.Fillamediumpotwithabout3inches(about7.5cm)ofwaterandbringtoasimmer.Combinetheconfectioners’sugarandeggwhitesinamediumheatproofbowl(themetalbowlofastandmixerisfine)andplaceontopofthepotofsimmeringwater.Thebowlshouldsitontherimofthepot,wellabovethewater.
3.Whisktheeggwhitemixtureconstantlyasitwarms.Whenitreaches113°F(45°C)andfeelshottothetouch,removefromtheheat.1
4.Usingastandmixerorhandmixerfittedwithawhisk,whiptheeggwhitesonhighspeed.Astheywhip,theeggwhiteswilltripleinvolume,thicken,andcool.Whenfinished,themeringuewillbeveryfluffyandholdamedium-stiffpeak.Thisshouldtakeabout5minutes,dependingonyourmixer.2
5.Witharubberspatula,gentlyfoldthedesiredflavoringintothemeringue.Feelfreetoseparatethemeringueintobatchesandusedifferentflavors.Justmakesureyoukeepalltoolscleanforeachtoavoidmixingthem.3
6.Cutthetipofapipingbagtosnuglyfita#804plaintip.Usingaspatula,place2largescoopsofmeringueinthebagsothatitisone-thirdfull.Pushthemeringuedowntowardthetipofthebag.
7.Lineasheetpanwithparchmentpaper.Ateachcorner,pipeasmalldotofmeringueundertheparchmentandpushtheparchmentflat.Thiswillhelpkeepit“glued”tothesheetpan.
8.Holdingthepipingbagata90-degreeangleabout1/2inch(1.25cm)abovethesheetpan,pipeadotofmeringuewithsteady,evenpressureuntilitreachesthesizeofadime.Pullthepipingbagstraightuptocreateafinepoint.(YoushouldhaveameringueteardropshapedlikeaHershey’sKiss.)Repeatpipingdropsabout1/2inch(1.25cm)apartuntilallthemeringueisused,refillingthepipingbagasnecessary.(Youmightneedtouseafewsheetpans,dependingonthesizeoftheMiniMe’s.)9.Bakethemeringuesfor20minutes.Rotatethepan180degreesandbakefor20minutesmore.Continuetorotateevery20minutesuntilthemeringuesarecompletelydry,
about1hour20minutes.TheMiniMe’sshouldbecrispyallthewaythrough.
10.TransfertheMiniMe’s,stillontheparchmentpaper,toawireracktocoolcompletely.Whencool,removegentlyfromtheparchmentwithyourfingers.
1.Thiskindofmeringue,inwhichyoudissolvethesugarintheeggwhitesoverheatbeforeyouwhipthem,isknownasa“Swissmeringue.”
2.Don’tworryaboutoverwhippingthemeringue.Itwon’taffectthefinaloutcomeoftheproduct,sobettertooverwhipthanunderwhip.
Whenmakingmeringue,itisveryimportanttousecleantools.Ifadropofoil(orotherfat)oreggyolkgetsintotheeggwhites,themeringuewillnotwhipproperly.
3. The more you work the meringue, the looser its structure becomes. When it bakes, a loosemeringuewillbecomeflatanddense.Itisveryimportanttobeasgentleaspossibleatthisstage.
Whenchoosing flavorings,pickones thatareveryconcentrated.Groundspices,alcohol-basedextracts,andcitruszestsareallgoodoptions.YoucanalsoaddadropofnaturalfoodcoloringtoyourSwissmeringuetocreatecoloredMiniMe’s.
SERVING INSTRUCTIONSThese are aperfect topping for ice cream,cereal, cookiebatter,hotchocolate,cake,orfruit.
STORAGE INSTRUCTIONSMiniMe’s can be kept in a closed airtight container atroomtemperature,awayfromhumidity,forupto1week.ExtraMiniMe’scanbeusedforChristmasMorningCereal(page169)ortotopyourHotChocolate(page110).
POPCORNCHOUQUETTES
Ilovemakingthisrecipe...foraportablesnackontherun.
SKILLLEVELBeginnerTIME1hour45minutesYIELDAbout50
SPECIALTOOLS
CandythermometerStandmixerwithpaddleattachment(optional)UncutpipingbagAteco#803plaintip(5/16-inch/0.8cmdiameter)Pastrybrush(optional)
INGREDIENTSCARAMELIZEDPOPCORNPopcornkernels 1/4cup 50grams
Vegetableoil 1teaspoon 3grams
Granulatedsugar 1/2cup+1tablespoon 115grams
Brownsugar(lightordark) 1/4cup,looselypacked 50gramsCornsyrup 1tablespoon 20grams
Water 1tablespoon 10grams
Unsaltedbutter(84%butterfat) 4tablespoons 56grams
Bakingsoda 1teaspoon 2grams
Koshersalt 1teaspoon 2grams
Koshersalt 1teaspoon 2grams
PÂTEÀCHOUXWater 1/3cup 75grams
Wholemilk 4tablespoons+1teaspoon 68grams
Unsaltedbutter(84%butterfat) 51/2tablespoons 75grams
Granulatedsugar 1teaspoon 3grams
Koshersalt 1teaspoon 2gramsAll-purposeflour 2/3cup 98grams
Wholeeggs(large) 3each 3each(150grams)
FINISHINGEggwash(1eggand1eggyolk,beaten
together)asneeded asneeded
Pearlsugar 1/3cup 50grams
MAKECARAMELIZEDPOPCORN
1.Lineasheetpanwithparchmentpaper.Combinethepopcornkernelsandvegetableoilinamediumpot.Coverwithalidandcookovermediumheatuntilthekernelsbegintopop.Vigorouslyshakethepottopreventthepopcornfromburning.Continuetocookuntilyounolongerhearthekernelspopping,about5minutes.Spreadthepopcornonthesheetpantocool.Discardanyunpoppedkernels.
2.Combinethegranulatedsugar,brownsugar,cornsyrup,andwaterinanothermediumpotandbringtoaboilovermediumheat.Cookwithoutstirringuntilthecaramelreaches239°F(115°C)andturnsacolorsimilartohoney.
3.Addthebuttertothepotandslowlyswirltomix.Cookuntilthecaramelreaches300°F(149°C)andisabouttwoshadesdarkerandthebubblesaremuchsmaller.
4.Addthebakingsodaandsalt.Becareful!Thebakingsodamightcausethecarameltosplatter.Whiskuntilcompletelyincorporated.
5.Usingaheatproofspatula,foldthepopcornintothecarameluntilitiswellcoated.Pourthepopcornbackontothesheetpan.Separatethepopcornclustersimmediatelywiththespatula.
6.Whencooled,about10minutes,useachef’sknifetofinelychopthepopcorn.Storeinanairtightcontaineruntilneeded.
MAKEPÂTEÀCHOUXANDCHOUQUETTES
1.Placearackinthecenteroftheovenandpreheattheovento375°F(190°C)forconventionalor350°F(175°C)forconvection.
2.Combinethewater,milk,butter,sugar,andsaltinamediumpot.Bringtoaboilovermediumheat.
3.Addtheflourandstirwithawoodenspoonuntilthemixturecomestogetherandformsadough.Continuetostirthedoughuntilitbeginstodryandyouseeafilmstarttoformatthebottomofthepotastheresultofthedoughsticking,1to2minutes.
4.Transferthedoughtoastandmixerfittedwithapaddle.(Ifyoudon’thaveamixer,useaheatproofspatulatomixthedough.)Addtheeggsoneatatimeandmixonlowspeed,makingsureeacheggisfullyincorporatedbeforeaddingthenext.Thismayseemdifficultatfirst,buteventuallythebatterwillloosenup.1
5.Cutthetipofapipingbagtosnuglyfita#803plaintip.Usingarubberspatula,place2largescoopsofchouxdoughinthebagsothatitisone-thirdfull.Pushthedoughdowntowardthetipofthebag.
6.Lineasheetpanwithparchmentpaper.Holdingthepipingbagata90-degreeangleabout1/2inch(1.25cm)abovethepan,pipedotsofchouxdoughabout11/2inches(4cm)indiameter,spacingthemabout1inch(3.5cm)apart.Continuepipinguntilallthechouxdoughhasbeenused,refillingthepipingbagasnecessary.
7.Usingapastrybrushorthetipsofyourfingers,lightlybrushtheeggwashonthechoux.Sprinklethecaramelizedpopcornoverthechoux,completelycoveringthesurface.Dothesamewiththepearlsugar.Usingyourfingers,pressthepopcornandpearlsugarintothechouxtoensurethattheystickasthechouxbake.
8.Bakethechouxonthecenterrackfor10minutes.Rotatethepan180degreesandbakefor10minutesmore.Whenfinished,thechouxwillbegoldenbrownandfeellighttothetouch.Whenbrokenopen,thechouxshouldbemostlyhollow.
9.Letthechoux,stillontheparchmentpaper,cool.Whencool,removegentlyfromtheparchmentwithyourfingers.
1.Whenmakingpâteàchoux,theamountofeggsneededwillvary.Theconsistencyofthechouxdoughdictateshowmanyeggsshouldbeadded.Tochecktheconsistencyofthechouxdough,diparubberspatulaintothedoughandpullstraightup.ThedoughshouldformasmoothV-shaped“ribbon”ontheendofthespatulawhenit’sready.
SERVING INSTRUCTIONS Serve at room temperature. The finished PopcornChouquettesarebestconsumedwithin12hoursofbaking.
STORAGE INSTRUCTIONS Pâte à choux dough can be kept in a closed airtightcontainer in the refrigerator for up to 4 days. Try making some of the otherrecipeslikeVanillaReligieuse(page137)andParis–NewYork(page145).
MARSHMALLOWCHICKS
Ilovemakingthisrecipe...forthekidsandthechildwithinourselves.
SKILLLEVELBeginnerTIME2hoursYIELD12chicks
SPECIALTOOLS
EggscissorsCleaneggcartonCandythermometer3uncutpipingbagsor2uncutbagsand1parchmentpapercornetHandblender(recommended)
StandmixerwithwhiskattachmentAteco#803plaintip(5/16-inch/0.8cmdiameter)
INGREDIENTSEGGSHELLSWholeeggs(large,inwhiteshells) 12each 12each
Wholeeggs(large,inwhiteshells) 12each 12each
Nonstickcookingspray asneeded asneeded
SOFTCARAMELHeavycream 3/4cup 160grams
Lightcornsyrup 1/3cup 100gramsDarkbrownsugar 2tablespoons 24grams
Granulatedsugar 1/4cup 51grams
Fleurdesel 1/4teaspoon 2grams
MARSHMALLOWPowderedgelatin 4teaspoons 12grams
Water 1/2cup+2tablespoons 125gramsGranulatedsugar 1cup 205grams
Lightcornsyrup 1/3cup 101grams
Honey 2tablespoons 32grams
Water 1/4cup+1/2tablespoon 75grams
ASSEMBLYYellowsandingsugar 1/3cup 60gramsDarkchocolate,finelychoppedandtightlypacked(fordecoration)
1tablespoon 10grams
PREPAREEGGSHELLS
1.Usingeggscissors,removethenarrowpointoftheeggshells.Makesuretoremoveanysmallfragmentsasyoucut.Emptytheeggs(youcansavetheyolksandwhitesforanotherrecipeorforbreakfastthenextday).Carefullypeelawayanddiscardtheinsidemembranefromtheeggshell.
2.Fillalargepothalfwaywithwaterandbringtoaboilovermediumheat.Layoutpapertowelsontheworksurface.
3.Gentlyplacetheemptyeggshellsintotheboilingwaterandletthemsimmerfor1minute.Carefullyremovetheshellswithaslottedspoon.Placetheshellsholedownonthepapertowelstodrainoutanyexcesswater.Lettheshellscoolcompletely.
4.Lightlycoattheinsideoftheeggshellswithnonstickspray.Rubthesprayevenlyovertheinterioroftheshellswithyourfingertomakesurethesurfaceiscovered.Thiswillhelpensurethatthemarshmallowdoesnotsticktotheshell.Reservetheshellsinacleaneggcartonuntilreadytofill.1
MAKESOFTCARAMEL
1.Combinethecream,cornsyrup,andbrownsugarinasmallpot.Bringtoaboilovermediumheat.Removefromtheheatandsetaside,keepingitwarm.
2.Placeanemptymediumpotoverhighheat.Whenthepotishot,sprinkleathin,evenlayerofgranulatedsugarintothepot.Asthesugarmeltsandcaramelizes,slowlywhiskintherestofthesugar,onesmallhandfulatatime,untilallthesugarhasbeenadded.2
3.Whenallofthesugarhascaramelizedandturneddeepamber,slowlystreaminone-thirdofthehotcream,whiskingconstantly.Becareful!Thecreammightcausethecarameltosplatter.Whenincorporated,whiskinthenextthird,andthenthelast.3Whenallofthecreamhasbeenadded,turndowntheheattolowandcontinuetowhiskthecarameluntilitreaches221°F(105°C),4to5minutes.Removefromtheheat,whiskinthefleurdesel,pourintoamediumheatproofbowl,andletcoolcompletely.
4.Whenthecaramelhascooled,stirwelltoreemulsifyanyfatthatmayhaveseparated.Fillapipingbagwiththecaramelandrefrigerateuntilneeded.
MAKEMARSHMALLOW
1.Sprinklethegelatinoverthewaterinasmallbowl.Stirandletsitforabout20minutestobloom.
2.Combinethegranulatedsugar,cornsyrup,honey,andwaterinamediumpot.Bringtoaboilovermediumheat.Cookwithoutstirringuntilthesyrupreaches248°F(120°C).4
3.Carefullypourthehotsyrupintoastandmixerfittedwithawhiskandaddthebloomedgelatin.Letitcoolfor5minutes,untilwarm.Thenwhiponlowspeeduntilcombined.Increasethespeedtomedium-highandcontinuetowhipfor4to6minutes.Themixturewillturnwhiteandquadrupleinvolume.Whenthemarshmallowisfirmenoughtoholdapeak,stopwhipping.
4.Cutthetipofapipingbagtosnuglyfita#803plaintip.Usingarubberspatula,place2largescoopsofmarshmallowinthebagsothatitisone-thirdfull.Pushthemarshmallowdowntowardthetipofthebag.Removethecaramel-filledpipingbagfromtherefrigeratorandcutanopeningabout1/2inch(1.25cm)widestraightacrossthetipofthebag.
ASSEMBLECHICKS
1.Workingasquicklyaspossible,assemblethechicksoneatatime.Whilethemarshmallowisstillwarm,pipeitintoaneggshelltofillitthree-quartersfull.
Setthepipingbagwithmarshmallowaside.Pipeacherry-sizedollopofthesoftcaramelintothecenterofthemarshmallow.Pickupthemarshmallow-filledpipingbagandfilltheeggshelltothebrim.Then,holdingthetip3/4to1inch(2cm)abovetheegg,pipeamarshmallowteardropontop,pullingthetipawayasyoufinish.Thiswillformasmallbeakforthechick.5Immediatelysprinklewithyellowsandingsugartocoverallexposedareasofthemarshmallow.Continuefillingtheremainingeggshellsoneatatime.Refillyourpipingbagwithmarshmallowasnecessary.6
2.Meltasmallamountofdarkchocolateinthemicrowave.Mixitgently,makingsureitisnottoohot.Pourthechocolateintothethirdpipingbagortheparchmentpapercornetandcutaverysmallopeningacrossthetip,aboutthesizeofthetipofapen.Pipe2smalldotsontoeachchick’sheadfor“eyes.”Letsetatroomtemperatureforatleast1hourbeforeserving.
1.Trytoavoidgettinganynonsticksprayontheoutsideoftheeggshelltokeepitclean.
2.Thismethodofcookingsugariscalleda“drycaramel”becauseitstartswithadrypanandnowater. When caramel starts with water, it is called a “wet caramel.” I prefer the dry versionbecauseitallowsyoumorecontroloverthecaramelization.
3.Awhiskwillworkwellhere,but ifyouhaveahandblender,usingthiswill reemulsifythefatquicklyandgivethecaramelasmootherconsistency.
4.Thisisthetemperatureatwhichsugarreachesthe“softball”stage.Itwillholdashapewithoutbecominghardandbrittle.
5.Ifthemarshmallowstartstocoolandset,microwaveitinthebagfor5to10seconds.
6.Ifyouwaittoolongtosprinklethesandingsugar,itwillnotsticktothemarshmallow.Speedisveryimportantatthisstage.
SERVINGINSTRUCTIONSServeatroomtemperature.
STORAGE INSTRUCTIONS Marshmallow chicks can be kept in a closed airtightcontainerat roomtemperature forupto1week.Leftovermarshmallowcanbespread onto a sheet pan and cut into squares for Hot Chocolate (page 110).Leftovercaramelcanlastfor7daysintherefrigeratorandbeusedforParis–NewYork(page145),AppleMarshmallow(page162),orChocolateCaviarTart(page184).
VANILLAICECREAM
Ilovemakingthisrecipe...atthestartofeverysummersothatIcaneatotherdessertsàlamodethroughouttheseason.
SKILLLEVELBeginnerTIME2hoursYIELDAbout1quart (1 liter);15to20smallscoops
SPECIALTOOLS
Instant-readthermometerMediumsieveIcecreammachine
INGREDIENTS
Wholemilk 21/4cups 530grams
Heavycream 3/4cups 169grams
Vanillabeans(preferablyTahitian),splitlengthwise,seedsscraped
2each 2each
Granulatedsugar 3/4cup 154grams
Eggyolks(large) 5each 5each(100grams)
1.Combinethemilk,cream,andvanillapodsandseedsinamediumpot.Starttowarmthemixtureoverlowheat.
2.Whiskthesugarandeggyolkstogetherinamediumbowluntilfullycombined.
3.Whenthemilkmixturereaches95°F(35°C)orfeelsjustwarmtothetouch,removefromtheheat.Streamone-thirdintotheyolks,whiskingconstantlyuntilfullyblended,totempertheyolks.Whiskthetemperedyolksintotheremainingwarmmilk.Returnthepottolowheat.
4.Whiskingconstantly,cooktheicecreambaseoverlowheatuntilitreaches185°F(85°C)orfeelsveryhottothetouchandbecomesthickenoughtocoatthebackofaspoon.1
5.Removefromtheheat.Straintheicecreambasethroughamediumsieveintoaquartcontainer.
6.Fillalargebowlwithiceandwater.Placethecontaineroficecreambaseintheicebath.Stirwithawhiskevery10minutes,untilchilled.Thisstopsthebasefromcontinuingtocook.
7.Whenthebasehascooled,pouritintotheicecreammachineandchurnaccordingtothemanufacturer’sinstructions.
8.Whenfinishedchurning,transfertheicecreamtoanairtightcontainer.Allowtheicecreamtohardeninthefreezerforatleast1hourbeforeserving.
1.Whenacustardreachesthisconsistency,it’scallednappé,whichmeans“glazed”inFrench.
SERVINGINSTRUCTIONSIlikemyvanillaicecreamplainortoppedwithMiniMe’s(page116)!
STORAGEINSTRUCTIONSIcecreamcanbekeptinthefreezerforupto1week.
APPLETARTTATIN
Ilovemakingthisrecipe...becauseit’s80percentgorgeous,juicyfruit.
SKILLLEVELBeginnerTIME20minutesonedaybefore;2hoursthedayofYIELD6individual3-inch(7.5cm)tartsor1large8-inch(20cm)tart
TIMELINE
ONE DAY BEFOREMakedoughTHE DAY OFBake sablé cookies;makecaramelizedapples;assemble
SPECIALTOOLS
StandmixerwithwhiskandpaddleattachmentsRulerSix3-inch(7.5cm)roundcakepansorone8-inch(20cm)roundcakepanCandythermometer
VegetablepeelerApplecorer
INGREDIENTSSABLÉBRETONCOOKIES
SABLÉBRETONCOOKIESEggyolks(large) 2each 2each(40grams)
Granulatedsugar 61/2tablespoons 85grams
Saltedbutter(84%butterfat) 41/2tablespoons 65grams
All-purposeflour 3/4cup 90gramsBakingpowder 11/2teaspoons 5grams
Koshersalt 1/2teaspoon 1gram
CARAMELIZEDAPPLESGranulatedsugar 2/3cup 137grams
Water 1/4cup+11/2tablespoons 60grams
Unsaltedbutter(84%butterfat),cutinsmalldice
3tablespoons 35grams
HoneycrisporGalaapples 7for6individualtarts; 8foralargetart
Crèmefraîche(forserving,optional)
ONEDAYBEFOREMAKEDOUGH
1.Combinetheeggyolksandgranulatedsugarinastandmixerfittedwithawhisk.Whiponhighspeedfor2to3minutesuntilthemixturebecomeslightandfluffy.
2.Soften(butdon’tmelt!)thebutterinthemicrowave.Reducethemixerspeedtolowandmixinthebutter.
3.Removethebowlfromthemixer.Usingarubberspatula,foldintheflour,bakingpowder,andsalt.Mixjustuntiltheflourisincorporated,makingsuretoscrapedownthesidesofthebowlwitharubberspatula.Thedoughshouldbefirmyetpliable.
4.Onapieceofparchmentpaper,drawarectanglealittlelargerthan6by9inches(15by23cm)withapencilifmakingindividualtarts,oran8-inch(20cm)squareifmakingalargetart.Fliptheparchmentoverontheworksurface.Transferthedoughtothecenteroftheoutline.Withanoffsetspatulaoryourfingers,shapeitintoasquare1/4inch(6mm)thick.Coverwithanotherpieceofparchment.Usingarollingpinwithsteady,evenpressure,pushthedoughfromthemiddleoutwardtotheedgesoftheoutline.Whenthedoughisrolledevenlyandfitstheoutline,placeonasheetpan,stillbetweenthetwopiecesofparchment,andrefrigerateovernighttorest.
THEDAYOF
BAKESABLÉCOOKIES
1.Placearackinthecenteroftheovenandpreheattheovento350°F(175°C)forconventionalor325°F(160°C)forconvection.Lineasheetpanwithparchmentpaper.
2.Removethesablédoughfromtherefrigeratorandpeeloffthetoplayerofparchment.Usingacakepanasaguide,tracearoundtherimwithaparingknifeandcutout6individualcookiesor1largecookie.Removetheexcessdough.Transferthesablécookiestothesheetpan.
3.Bakethesablécookiesonthecenterrackfor8minutes.Rotatethepan180degreesandbakefor8minutesmoreoruntilthesablécookiesturngoldenbrown.Thesinglelargecookiemighttakealittlelonger.Transferthesablécookies,stillontheparchmentpaper,tocool.
MAKECARAMELIZEDAPPLES
1.Placearackinthecenteroftheovenandpreheattheovento350°F(175°C)forconventionalor325°F(160°C)forconvection.
2.Combinethegranulatedsugarandwaterinamediumpotandbringtoaboilovermediumheat.Cookwithoutstirringuntilthecaramelreaches350°F(175°C)andturnsadarkamber.
3.Whiskthebutterintothecaramel.Becareful!Thebutterwillfoamandthecaramelwillriseinthepot.Continuetowhiskuntilallthebutterhasbeenincorporatedandthecaramelissmooth.
4.Dividethecaramelequallyamongthecakepans.Itshouldfilleachpanabout3/8inch(1cm)deep.
5.Peelandcoretheapples.Ifmakingindividualtarts,slice1appleinto6segments.Place1wholeappleintoeachsmallpan.Push1segmentintothecenterofeachwholeapple.Foralargetart,place1wholeappleinthecenterofthelargepan.Cut6applesinhalfverticallyandplacethehalves,standingup,inacirclearoundthewholeapple.Slicetheremainingappleinto6segmentsandfillthespacesbetweenapples.
6.Transferthecakepanstoasheetpanandbakeonthecenterrackfor30minutes.Removefromtheovenandgentlypresseachappledownwithanoffsetspatula.Returntheapplestotheoven.Repeatthisprocess3or4moretimes.Whenfinished,theappleswillhavelosthalfoftheirsizeandturnedadarkamber.Alightskinwillhaveformedontopoftheapple,whichwillbecomethebottomwhenunmolded.
7.Letthecaramelizedapplescooltoroomtemperature,thenrefrigerateforanhourforthecarameltosetandthicken.
ASSEMBLE
1.Tounmoldtheapples,warmtheoutsideandbottomofthepanbyplacingitdirectlyonthestovetopovermediumheatfor30seconds.(Alternatively,placeitintheovenat350°F[175°C]for3minutes.)Usingasmalloffsetspatulaorafork,gentlypulltheapplesawayfromtheedgeofthemold.
2.Inverteachpanandslidetheappleontoasablécookie.Serveimmediately.
SERVING INSTRUCTIONS Servewarmor at room temperature.A dollopof crèmefraîcheisagreataccompaniment.
STORAGE INSTRUCTIONS Assembled tarts should be consumed the day of.Caramelizedapplescanbekept inaclosedairtightcontainer in the refrigeratorfor 2 days. Sablé Breton cookies can be kept in an airtight container at roomtemperatureforupto5days.
THEPURPLETART
Ilovemakingthisrecipe...duringthefallmonthswhengorgeousstonefruitsappearinthefarmers’markets.
SKILLLEVELBeginnerTIME3hours15minutesYIELD6individualtarts
SPECIALTOOLS
StandmixerwithapaddleattachmentSix3-inch(7.5cm)tartringsorone8-inch(20cm)tartring1
UncutpipingbagSmalloffsetspatula(optional)
INGREDIENTSBLACKBERRYPASTRYCREAMWholemilk 1/2cup+3tablespoons 146grams
Blackberries,puréed 1cup 135grams
Eggyolks(large) 4each 4each(80grams)
Cornstarch 2/3cup+3tablespoons 60gramsGranulatedsugar 1/3cup+2tablespoons 94grams
Unsaltedbutter(84%butterfat),cutinsmalldice
4tablespoons 55grams
POACHEDPLUMSANDCURRANTSCrèmedecassis 1/4cup 50grams
Granulatedsugar 1cup 250gramsWater 11/2cups+5tablespoons 300grams
Elderflowerliqueur 1/3cups 80grams
Plums,peeled 5or6 5or6
Blackcurrants 2cups 300grams
VANILLASABLÉTARTSHELLDOUGHUnsaltedbutter(84%butterfat),softened 9tablespoons 127gramsConfectioners’sugar 1/2cup+2tablespoons 81grams
Vanillabeans(preferablyTahitian),splitlengthwise,seedsscraped
1bean 1bean
Wholeegg(large) 1each 1each(50grams)
All-purposeflour 11/4cups,plusmoreasneededfordusting
165grams,plusmoreasneededfordusting
Cornstarch 1/3cup+1tablespoon 47gramsAlmondflour 1/3cup 30grams
Koshersalt 1/2teaspoon 1gram
Blackberries,whole 12each 12each
MAKEPASTRYCREAM
1.Combinethemilkandpuréedblackberriesinamediumpotandbringtoasimmerovermediumheat.Whisktheeggyolks,cornstarch,andgranulatedsugartogetherinasmallheatproofbowl.
2.Whenthemilkandberriescometoasimmer,removefromtheheat.Streamone-thirdintotheeggyolks,whiskingconstantlyuntilfullyblended,totemperthem.Whiskthetemperedyolksintothehotmilkandberriesandreturnthepottomedium-lowheat.Continuetocookthepastrycreamovermedium-lowheat,whiskingconstantly.Thepastrycreamwillbecomeverythick,similartocustard,andstarttobubble;cookforanadditional3minutes.Removefromtheheat.Whiskinthebutteruntilfullyincorporated.
3.Lineasheetpanorshallowbowlwithplasticwrap.(Themorespreadoutthepastrycreamis,thefasteritwillcool.)Spreadthepastrycreamontheplasticwrap.Coverthepastrycreamwithanotherpieceofplasticwrappressed
directlyagainstthesurfacetopreventaskinfromforming.Refrigerateuntilcompletelycooled,about30minutes.
POACHPLUMSANDCURRANTS
1.Combinethecrèmedecassis,granulatedsugar,water,andelderflowerliqueurinamediumpot.Bringtoaboilovermediumheat,thenlowertheheattoasimmer.Addtheplums.Cutaroundofparchmentpapertofitinsidethepotandmakeasmallholeinthecenteroftheround;placeitontopoftheplumstohelpthemsteamandpoachevenly.
2.Whentheplumsarefork-tender,addthecurrantsandsimmerjustuntiltheybegintoburst,1to2minutes.2
3.Removepotfromtheheatandletcoolatroomtemperature.Keeptheplumsinthepoachingliquid.Theywillcontinuetoabsorbflavorfromtheliquidastheysit.
MAKEANDBAKETARTSHELL
1.Creamthebutter,confectioners’sugar,andvanillabeanseedsfor30secondsonmediumspeedinastandmixerfittedwithapaddle.Addtheegg,scrapedownthesidesofthebowlwitharubberspatula,andmixonmediumspeeduntilsmooth.
2.Combinetheall-purposeflour,cornstarch,almondflour,andsaltinamediumbowl.Withthemixeronlowspeed,stirintheflouruntiljustcombined,about10secondsmore.
3.Liberallyflourtheworksurfaceandarollingpin.Transferthedoughtotheworksurfaceandrollitoutintoarectangleabout1/4inch(6mm)thick.Placeonasheetpanandlooselycoverwithplasticwrap.Refrigeratefor30minutes.
4.Removethedoughfromtherefrigerator.Usingatartringasaguide,cut6circles1inch(2.5cm)widerthantheoutsideofthering,sothatthedoughroundswillbebigenoughtocomeupthesidesoftherings.
5.Lineasheetpanwithparchmentpaperandplacethetartringsevenlyspacedonthepan.Placeadoughroundontopofeachring.Pushdowngentlywithyourfingersandpressthedoughalongtheinsideofthering.Useaparingknifetotrimexcessdoughhangingovertheedgeofthering.Returntotherefrigeratortochillforabout30minutes.
6.Whilethetartshellsarechilling,placearackinthecenteroftheovenandpreheattheovento350°F(175°C)forconventionalor325°F(160°C)forconvection.
7.Bakethetartshellsonthecenterrackfor8minutes.Rotatethepan180degreesandbakefor8minutesmoreoruntilthetartshellsaregoldenbrown.
8.Unmoldthetartshellswhilestillwarm.Letcoolcompletelyatroomtemperature.
ASSEMBLE
1.Whiskthepastrycreamuntilsmooth.Transferthepastrycreamtoapipingbagandsetaside.
2.Removetheplumsandcurrantsfromthepoachingliquidwithaslottedspoon.Drainthefruitsonpapertowels;theyarereadywhennomoreliquidrunsfromthem.Cuttheplumsinhalfverticallywithaparingknife.Removethepitsandsliceeachhalfintofourevenwedges.Setaside.
3.Cutanopeningabout1/2inch(1.25cm)widestraightacrossthetipofthepipingbag.Pipeasmallamountofpastrycreamtocoverthebaseofeachtartshell.Ifyouhaveone,useasmalloffsetspatulatolevelthepastrycreamsothatitisperfectlyflat.
4.Cuttheblackberriesinhalfvertically.Arrangetheblackberries,plumslices,andcurrantsdecorativelyontopofthepastrycreamsothatitiscompletelycovered.3
5.Refrigeratethetartsuntilyouarereadytoserve.
1.Ifyouwouldlikealargerorsmallertart,feelfreetousedifferentsizetartrings.Thisrecipealsomakes1large8-inch(20cm)tart.
2.Poachingtimewillvarydependingontheripenessoftheplums.Iftheplumsareveryripe,afteryouaddthemtothepoachingliquidyoucanjustcoverthemandturnofftheheat.Iftheplumsareunderripe,simmeruntiltender.
3. When arranging the fruits, it is important to show as many angles and cross-sections aspossible.
SERVINGINSTRUCTIONSServechilledstraightfromtherefrigerator.
STORAGE INSTRUCTIONS The tarts should be consumed the day they are built.Leftover passion fruit curd can be kept in a closed airtight container in therefrigerator forupto2days.Leftover tart shellscanbekept inaclosedairtightcontaineratroomtemperatureforupto2days.
INTERMEDIATERECIPES
CANNELÉDEBORDEAUX
Ilovemakingthisrecipe...toshowcaseskillandpatiencewhencreatingtheperfect3:00pmsnack.
SKILL LEVEL Intermediate TIME 20 minutes one day before (plus 45 minutes ifusingbrand-newcannelémolds);1hour30minutesthedayofYIELD10mediumcannelés(about23/4ounces/80gramseach)
TIMELINE
ONEDAYBEFORESeasonmolds;makebatterTHEDAYOFBake
SPECIALTOOLS
10cannelémolds2inchestallby2inchesdiameter(5cmtallby5cmdiameter)Pastrybrush(optional)
WirerackInstant-readthermometer(recommended)
INGREDIENTS
Beeswax(forthemolds) asneeded asneeded
Wholemilk 11/2cups 352grams
Unsaltedbutter(84%butterfat) 3tablespoons 42gramsVanillabean(preferablyTahitian),splitlengthwise,seedsscraped
1/2each 1/2each
Eggyolks(large) 3each 3each(60grams)
Darkrum 3tablespoons 38grams
All-purposeflour 1/2cup+2tablespoons 94grams
Granulatedsugar 3/4cup+2tablespoons 180gramsKoshersalt 1/2teaspoon 1gram
PURCHASING,PREPARING,ANDCARINGFORCANNELÉMOLDS
•Thereareseveraloptionswhenpickingoutcannelémolds,butIwouldrecommendusingcoppermolds.Copperconductsheatextremelywellandensuresacrispyexteriorandmoistflan-likeinteriorasthecannelésbake.
•Ifyouareusingcoppercannelémoldsforthefirsttime,itisimportanttoseasonthemproperly.Thetraditionalwayistousebeeswax.Preheattheovento400°F(205°C)forconventionalor375°F(190°C)forconvection.Meltbeeswaxinthemicrowavein30-secondintervals.Brushtheinsideofthemoldswithmeltedwaxandplacethemonasheetpanintheovenfor10minutes.Removeandinvertonawirerackoverasheetpantoletexcesswaxdrainout.Whenthemoldscool,repeatthisprocessthreemoretimes.Seasoningthemoldsinthismannerensuresthatyourcanneléswillhaveashinyandsmoothexterior.Italsopreventsthemfromstickingtothemolds.Ideally,thisprocessshouldberepeatedeachtimeyoubakecannelés,butitcanbedoneeveryothertimeafterthefirstfivebakesifthecannelésareunmoldingeasily.
•Beeswaxcangenerallybefoundatspecialtystoresoronlineatseveralretailers.Itcomesinblocksorchips.Irecommendchipssimplybecausetheyareeasiertomelt;otherwisetheyarethesame.
•Coppercannelémoldsdonotneedtobewashed.Toclean,wipewithadrytowel.
ONEDAYBEFORESEASONMOLDS
Preparecannelémoldsinthemethoddescribedabove.
MAKEBATTER
1.Combinethemilk,butter,andvanillabeanpodandseedsinamediumpot.Bringtoasimmerovermediumheat.Removefromtheheatandletcooltoabout100°F(38°C),orlukewarmtothetouch.1
2.Whisktheeggyolksintothemilkmixture.Whentheyhavebeenincorporated,whiskintherum.
3.Whisktheflour,sugar,andsalttogetherinamediumbowl.Whiskinthewarmmilkone-thirdatatime,scrapingdownthesidesandbottomofthebowlbetweenadditions.Someairbubbleswillform,butkeepthesetoaminimum.Whenfinished,thebatterwillhavetheconsistencyofheavycream.2
4.Strainthebatterthroughamediumsieveintoanairtightcontainer.Beforeclosing,coverwithplasticwrappresseddirectlyontothesurfaceofthebatter,topreventaskinfromforming.Pressthelidoftheairtightcontainerontightly.Refrigerateovernighttorestthebatter.
THEDAYOFBAKE
1.Placearackinthecenteroftheovenandpreheattheovento450°F(230°C)forconventionalor425°F(220°C)forconvection.
2.Warmthemoldsintheovenfor15minutesbeforefilling.Preheatingthemoldshelpsensurethatthecanneléswillhaveacrunchy,caramelizedexterior.
3.Brushthemoldswithathinlayerofmeltedbeeswax.(Toomuchwaxwillcausethemixturetospilloutofthemoldduringthebakingprocess.)Gentlymixthebattertoreincorporateingredientsthatmayhavesettledovernight.Becarefulnottoovermix,oryouriskincorporatingtoomuchairintothebatter.Themoreuniformthebatteris,thebetterthefinalproductwillbe.
4.Filleachmoldtoabout1/4inch(6mm)fromthetop,about23/4ounces(80grams)ofbattereach.Whenthecannelébakes,itwillriseslightly,thensink,soitisimportanttoleaveasmallspacetoaccountforthisrise.
5.Placethemoldsonasheetpanandbakeonthecenterrackfor20minutes.Rotatethepan180degrees,reducetheoventemperatureto350°F(175°C)forconventionalor325°F(160°C)forconvection,andbakefor35to45minutesmore.3
6.Letthecannelés,stillintheirmolds,coolfor10minutes.Turnthecannelémoldsupsidedownandgentlytapthetopuntilthecannelédropsoutontothewirerack.Letcoolcompletelybeforeserving.
1.Usinga thermometerwill result inamoreconsistent finalproduct,butyoucanalso test thetemperatureofthemilkmixturewithyourfinger:toocoldandthebutterwillcongeal;toohotandtheeggyolkswillstarttocook.
2.Avoidoverwhiskingthebattersinceincorporatingtoomuchairwillresultindrycannelés.
3.Bakingtimescanvarydependingonyouroven.Keepaneyeonthecannelés’colorduringtheirfinalminutes toensure theydonotover-orunderbake.Thebottomof thecanneléshould turnadeepmaplesyrupcolorwhenfinished.
SERVINGINSTRUCTIONSEatwhencooledtoroomtemperature.
STORAGEINSTRUCTIONSAcanneléisbesteatenthedayitisbaked.However,thebattercanbekeptinaclosedairtightcontainer,withplasticwrappresseddirectlyontothesurface,intherefrigeratorforupto5days.
VANILLARELIGIEUSE
Ilovemakingthisrecipe...andthebestpartisdecoratingit.
SKILLLEVELIntermediateTIME3hours
YIELD12religieuses
SPECIALTOOLS
Ruler2-inch(5cm)ringcutter11/2-inch(4cm)ringcutter2uncutpipingbagsAteco#804plaintip(3/8-inch/1cmdiameter)Standmixerwithwhiskattachment
Ateco#802plaintip(1/4-inch/0.64cmdiameter)
INGREDIENTS
Pâteàchouxdough(page118),unbaked 2batches 2batches
VANILLAWHIPPEDGANACHE
Gelatinsheet(160bloom)1 1each 1each
Vanillabean 1/2each 1/2each
Heavycream 11/2cups 364gramsWhitechocolatechips 1/2cup+2tablespoons 81grams
CHOUXCRUSTUnsaltedbutter(84%butterfat),softened 5tablespoons+2teaspoons 72grams
Lightbrownsugar,tightlypacked 1/3cup+2tablespoons 89grams
All-purposeflour 1/2cup+2tablespoons 89grams
GLAZEANDDECORATIONGlazingfondant2 11/2cups 500gramsFoodcoloring(optional) asneeded asneeded
Water asneeded asneeded
Decorationofyourchoice asneeded asneeded
MAKEGANACHE
1.Soakthegelatinsheetinabowloficewateruntilsoft,about20minutes.Ifusingpowderedgelatin,sprinkle1teaspoon(2.3grams)over1tablespoon(15grams)waterinasmallbowl,stir,andletsit20minutestobloom.
2.Usingaparingknife,slicethevanillabeaninhalflengthwiseandaddtheseedstothecreaminasmallpot.Bringtoaboilovermediumheat.
3.Whenthecreamreachesaboil,immediatelyremovethepotfromtheheat.Ifusingagelatinsheet,squeezeoutanyexcesswater.Whiskthebloomedgelatinintothehotcreamuntilthegelatinisdissolved.
4.Placethewhitechocolatechipsinamediumheatproofbowl.Removethevanillabeanfromthehotcreamandpourthecreamoverthechips.Letstandfor30seconds.
5.Whiskthewhitechocolateandhotcreamuntilsmooth.Coverwithplasticwrappresseddirectlyontothesurfaceoftheganache,topreventaskinfromforming.Refrigeratetochillwhileyoumakethechoux.3
MAKECHOUXCRUST
1.Stirtogetherthebutterandbrownsugarwitharubberspatulainasmallbowl.Blenduntiltherearenolongeranystreaksofbutter.Addtheflourandmixuntiljustcombined.
2.Placethedoughbetweentwopiecesofparchmentpaperontheworksurface.Usingarollingpin,rolloutthedoughtoarectanglealittlelargerthan13by6inches(33by15cm).Transferthedough,stillbetweenthe
piecesofparchmentpaper,toahalfsheetpanandfreezeuntilcompletelyfirm,about30minutes.
3.Cut12circlesusinga2-inch(5cm)ringcutterandanother12circleswitha11/2-inch(4cm)ringcutter.Removeanyexcessdough.Coverthesheetpanlooselywithplasticwrapandrefrigeratethecrustcirclesuntilneeded.
MAKEANDBAKECHOUXCRUSTANDDOUGH
1.Make2batchesofpâteàchouxdough,page118.2.Cutthetipofapipingbagtosnuglyfita#804plaintip.Usingarubber
spatula,place2largescoopsofpâteàchouxdoughinthebagsothatitisone-thirdfull.Pushthedoughdowntowardthetipofthebag.
3.Usethe2-inch(5cm)ringcuttertotrace12circlesinpencilabout21/2inches(6cm)apartonapieceofparchmentpaper.Fliptheparchmentoversothechouxdoughwon’tcomeincontactwiththepencilmarksandplaceitonahalfsheetpan.Trace12circlesonanotherpieceofparchmentwiththe11/2-inch(4cm)ringcutter,about2inches(5cm)apart,andflipthatparchmentontoasecondhalfsheetpan.
4.Holdingthepipingbagata90-degreeangleabout5/8inch(11/2cm)abovethepan,filltheoutlineswithchouxdough,pullingthetipupslightlyasyoupipetocreateaslightlydomedshape.Repeatuntilalltheoutlinesoneachpanarefilled.
5.Placeacircleofchouxcrustontopofeachpipedchoux,matchingthesizes.Pressdownslightlytomakesurethecrustadherestothechoux.Leavethechouxtodryfor30minutesatroomtemperaturebeforebaking.
6.Whilethechouxaredrying,placearackinthecenteroftheovenandpreheattheovento375°F(190°C)forconventionalor350°F(175°C)forconvection.
7.Bakethechouxonthecenterrackfor15minutes.Rotatethepan180degreesandbakefor15minutesmore.Whenfinished,thechouxwillbegoldenbrownandfeellighttothetouch;inside,theyshouldbemostlyhollow.Letthechoux,stillontheparchmentpaper,coolcompletely.
WHIPGANACHE
1.Transfertheganachetoastandmixerfittedwithawhisk.Whiponhighspeeduntilstiffpeaksform.4
2.Cutthetipofapipingbagtosnuglyfita#802plaintip.Usingarubberspatula,place2largescoopsofganacheinthebagsothatitisone-thirdfull.Pushtheganachedowntowardthetipofthepipingbag.
ASSEMBLE
1.Pokethetipofthepipingbagfilledwithganacheintothebottomofachouxandpipeganacheintothechoux.Whenfinished,thechouxshouldfeelheavyforitssize.Fillallthechouxandsetthemasideonapieceofparchmentpaper.
2.Combinethefondant,yourchoiceoffoodcoloring,andasmallamountofwaterinasmallheatproofbowl.Fillasmallpotwithabout2inches(5cm)waterandbringittoasimmer.Placethebowlsnuglyoverthewater.Warmtheglazeuntilitreachesbodytemperature.Itshouldbefluid—youmayneedtoaddalittlebitmorewatertobringittothecorrectconsistency.
3.Toglazethechoux,dipthetopone-thirdofeachofthelargerchouxintothefondantandpullthechouxstraightupoutofthefondant,lettinganyexcessdripoff.Turnthechouxglazedsideupandreturnittotheparchmentpaper.Repeatthisprocesswiththesmallchoux,balancingthemontopofthelargerchouxwhilethefondantisstillwarm.Decorateasyouseefit.Refrigerateuntilthefondantiscompletelyset.
1. If youcan’t findgelatin sheets,usepowderedgelatin.Onegelatin sheet=1 scant teaspoon(2.3 grams) powdered gelatin. For every teaspoon of gelatin, bloom in 1 tablespoon (15 grams)water.
2.Glazingfondantisalsoknownas“fondanticing”or“pastryfondant.”Itissimilartoroyalicingbutremainsshinywhenitsets.
3.Creamwhipsbetterwhencold,whichiswhyit’simportanttoworkwithchilledganache.
4.Makesuretheganacheiscoolbeforeyouwhip.
SERVING INSTRUCTIONSLet thereligieuses sitout for5minutesbefore serving tosoftentheganache.
STORAGE INSTRUCTIONSReligieuses can be kept in the refrigerator for up to 24hours. Leftover pâte à choux can be kept in a closed airtight container in therefrigerator for up to 4 days. Leftover ganache can be kept in a closed airtightcontainerintherefrigeratorfor2days.
COTTON-SOFTCHEESECAKE
Ilovemakingthisrecipe...it’scheesecakeforpeoplewhodon’tusuallylikecheesecake.
SKILLLEVELIntermediateTIME2hours
YIELD10individual3-inch(7.5cm)cheesecakesor1large8-inch(20cm)cake
SPECIALTOOLS
Siliconebakingmattofitthequartersheetpan(optional)Ruler(optional)StandmixerwithwhiskattachmentTen3-inch(7.5cm)metalringmolds1
WhiskUncutpipingbagAteco#805plaintip(7/16-inch/1.1cmdiameter)Blowtorch
INGREDIENTSALMONDBISCUITEggwhites(large) 3each 3each(90grams)
Nonstickcookingspray(optional) asneeded asneeded
Confectioners’sugar 1/3cup 45grams
Almondflour 1/2cup 45grams
Wholeegg(large) 1each 1each(30grams)Eggyolk(large) 1each 1each(20grams)
All-purposeflour,sifted 1/3cup 36grams
Granulatedsugar 21/2tablespoons 33grams
CHEESECAKEMOUSSEHeavycream 1/3cup+1tablespoon 85grams
Gelatinsheet(160bloom)2 1/2each 1/2eachGranulatedsugar 1/3cup+1tablespoon 80grams
Lemonjuice 2tablespoons 26grams
Whole-milkricottacheese 21/4cups 528grams
Granulatedsugar(tobrûlée) asneeded asneeded
MAKEALMONDBISCUIT
1.Placearackinthecenteroftheovenandpreheattheovento380°F(195°C)forconventionalor355°F(180°C)forconvection.Lineaquartersheetpanwithasiliconebakingmatorparchmentpaper.3
2.Combinetheconfectioners’sugar,almondflour,andwholeegginastandmixerfittedwithawhisk.Beatonlowspeeduntilcombined,scrapingthesidesandbottomofthebowlwitharubberspatula.Turnthespeedtohighandmixfor1minutemore.Thebatterwillbecomepaleyellowandfluffy.
3.Removethebowlfromthemixer.Usingtherubberspatula,foldintheeggyolk.Whentheyolkiscompletelyincorporated,carefullyfoldintheall-purposeflour.Overmixingthebatteratthisstagewillresultinatoughbiscuit.Transferthebattertoamediumbowl.
4.Washanddrythemixerbowlandwhisk,makingsuretheyarecleanandfreeofanyresidue.Placetheeggwhitesinthemixerbowl.Whiptheeggwhitesonmediumspeeduntilfrothy.Withthemixerstillonmedium,slowlystreaminone-thirdofthegranulatedsugarandcontinuetowhipuntilthesugarisincorporated.Whipintheremainingsugarintwoadditions.4
5.Withtherubberspatula,foldone-thirdofthemeringueintothebatter.Onceincorporated,addtheremainingmeringue,foldinggentlytoavoiddeflatingthebatter.Whenfinished,thebatterwillbecream-colored,andyouwillseebubblesonitssurface.
6.Pourthebatterontothemiddleofthequartersheetpan.Usingthespatula,spreadthebattertofillthepan.(Ifyouareusingalargersheetpan,spreadit
tofilltheoutlineoftherectangle.)Overworkingthebatteratthispointwillresultinatoughbiscuit.Trytospreadthebatterasquicklyandevenlyaspossible.Whenfinished,thebiscuitshouldbeabout1/2inch(1.25cm)thick.
7.Bakethebiscuitonthecenterrackfor5minutes.Rotatethepan180degreesandbakefor5minutesmore.Whenfinished,thebiscuitwillbelightbrownandwillspringbackwhentouchedinthecenter.
8.Letthebiscuit,stillontheparchmentpaper,coolcompletely.9.Invertontoanotherpieceofparchmentandcarefullypeelofftheoriginal
parchmentpaper.Usinga3-inch(7.5cm)ringmoldasaguide,cut10circlesofbiscuitjustslightlysmallerthantheringmold.Coverwithplasticwrapandsetasideuntilneeded.5
MAKECHEESECAKEMOUSSE
1.Whiskthecreaminamediumbowluntilitdoublesinvolumeandholdsastiffpeak.Coverwithplasticwrapandrefrigerateuntilneeded.6
2.Soakthegelatinsheetinabowloficewateruntilsoft,about20minutes.Ifusingpowderedgelatin,sprinkle1/2teaspoon(1.5grams)gelatinover11/2teaspoons(7.5grams)waterinasmallbowl,stir,andletsit20minutestobloom.Squeezeanyexcesswateroutofthegelatinsheet.7
3.Combinethesugarandlemonjuiceinamediumpot.Bringtoaboilovermediumheattofullydissolvethesugar.Removefromtheheatandaddthebloomedgelatin.Whiskuntilthegelatinisfullydissolved.Setthesyrupaside,keepingitwarm.
4.Gentlywhiskthericottainanothermediumbowltobreakupanylargelumps.Slowlywhiskthewarmlemonsyrupintothericottauntilfullyblended.
5.Withtherubberspatula,gentlyfoldone-thirdofthewhippedcreamintothericottasoasnottodeflatethecream.Foldintheremainingtwo-thirdsofthewhippedcream.Whenfinished,thecheesecakemixturewillhaveauniformconsistencysimilartoyogurt.
6.Cutthetipofapipingbagtosnuglyfita#805plaintip.Twistthebottomofthebagaroundthetiptopreventthecheesecakemoussefromspillingout.Usingarubberspatula,place2largescoopsofcheesecakemousseinthebagsothatitisone-thirdfull.
ASSEMBLEANDBRÛLÉE
1.Linethesheetpanwithparchmentpaper.Placeten3-inch(7.5cm)ringmoldsonthesheetpan.Placeacircleofalmondbiscuitinthecenterofeach
mold.Holdingthepipingbagabout1inch(2.5cm)abovethecenterofthealmondbiscuit,pipeinthecheesecakemoussetofillthemold.Whenitisfilledtothetop,slowlyliftthepipingbagawaywhilestillpiping.Thiswillhelpgivethecheesecakeadome-liketop.Repeatuntilallthemoldsarefilled.Freezeuntilcompletelysolid,2to3hours.
2.Removethecheesecakesfromthefreezer.Warmthemoldsbyrubbingyourhandsaroundthesidesuntilthecheesecakesslideout.Putthemallbackinthefreezerforafewminutes.Takeonlyoneortwooutofthefreezeratatimeandplacetheunmoldedcheesecakesonawirerackorasheetpan.8
3.Sprinkleathin,evenlayerofgranulatedsugarontopofacheesecake.Holdingtheblowtorchabout1inch(2.5cm)awayfromthecake,caramelizethesugarwithafocused,highflame(thisisverysimilartomakingcrèmebrûlée).Whenthefirstlayerofsugariscompletelycaramelized,sprinkle2teaspoons(10g)moregranulatedsugaronthecaramelizedsurfaceandbrûléeagain.Repeatthissteponemoretimeforatotalofthreelayers.Repeatwiththeremainingcheesecakes.9
4.Whenallthecheesecakeshavebeenbrûléed,placethemintherefrigeratortothawcompletely,2to3hours.
1.Ifyouwouldlikealargerorsmallercake,feelfreetousedifferentsizeringmolds.
2. If youcan’t findgelatin sheets,usepowderedgelatin.Onegelatin sheet=1 scant teaspoon(2.3 grams) powdered gelatin. For every teaspoon of gelatin, bloom in 1 tablespoon (15 grams)water.
3.Ifyoudonothaveaquartersheetpan,drawarectangle10by8inches(25by20cm)onapieceofparchmentpaperinpencil,fliptheparchmentover,anduseittolinealargerpan.
Spraying a light coat of nonstick cooking spray on the sheet pan and then placing theparchmentoveritisagoodwayto“glue”theparchmentinplace.
4. By adding the sugar in stages, you ensure that the sugar will dissolve completely and themeringuewill retainasmuchvolumeaspossible.Whenfinished, themeringuewillbe lightandfluffyandholdasoftpeak.
5.Don’tworry ifyoucan’tcut10fullcircles inthebiscuits.Usethescrapstocreatethetenthbase;thecheesecakemoussewillholdthebiscuittogetherwhenfrozen.
6.Whippedcreamwillremainstableforupto1hour.Afterthatitstartstoseparateandneedstobewhippedagain.
7.Makesure to squeezeoutexcessmoisture from thegelatinsheet.Otherwise, you riskaddingmoisturetothecheesecake,whichwillresultinasofter-than-desiredconsistency.
8. If the cheesecakemousse is not cold enough, itwillmelt as youbrûlée the sugar.Check tomakesureit’scompletelyfrozenbeforeusingtheblowtorch.
9.Bylayeringthesugarinthisway,youcreateacaramelizedsurfacethatcanstaycrunchyevenafterseveralhoursintherefrigerator.
When caramelizing the sugar, it is important to work quickly to prevent the cheesecake frommelting.
SERVINGINSTRUCTIONSServedirectlyfromtherefrigerator.
STORAGEINSTRUCTIONSThecheesecakesshouldbeconsumedwithin24hoursofthawing.Unbrûléedcheesecakescanbekeptinthefreezer,wrappedwell,forupto1week.
PARIS–NEWYORK
Ilovemakingthisrecipe...asmygo-tocrowd-pleaserbecausethecombinationofpeanutbutter,chocolate,andcaramelappealstoalmosteveryone.
SKILLLEVELIntermediate
TIME2hours30minutesonedaybefore;1hour45minutes thedayofYIELD6individualpastries
TIMELINE
ONEDAYBEFOREMakemousse,cream,softcaramel,andcaramelizedpeanutsTHE
DAYOFMakeandbakechoux;makecaramelglaze;assemble
SPECIALTOOLS
StandmixerwithwhiskattachmentInstant-readthermometerCandythermometerHandblender(recommended)4uncutpipingbags
Ateco#869openstartip(3/8-inch/1cmdiameter)23/4-inch(7cm)ringcutter3Ateco#804plaintips(3/8-inch/1cmdiameter;afewsizesupordownisfine)
INGREDIENTSDARKCHOCOLATEMOUSSEGelatinsheet(160bloom)1 1/2each 1/2each
Heavycream 1/2cup 112grams
Wholemilk 1/3cup 78gramsDarkchocolate(70%cocoacontent),finelychopped
1/3cup+2tablespoons 77grams
PEANUTBUTTERCREAMGelatinsheet(160bloom)1 1/2each 1/2each
Whitechocolate,finelychopped 1/4cup 34grams
Smoothpeanutbutter 1/4cup 60grams
Heavycream 1/2cup+2tablespoons 150grams
SOFTCARAMELHeavycream 7tablespoons 105grams
Darkbrownsugar 1tablespoon 12grams
Granulatedsugar 2tablespoons 25grams
CARAMELIZEDPEANUTSGranulatedsugar 2tablespoons 25grams
Water 1tablespoon 10gramsPeanuts,unsalted 1/2cup 63grams
Confectioners’sugar 1teaspoon 5grams
Groundcinnamon 1/2teaspoon 1gram
Koshersalt 1/2teaspoon 1gram
Pâteàchouxdough(page118),unbaked 2batches 2batches
CARAMELGLAZEGlazingfondant2 1/2cup 200grams
Softcaramel(fromabove) 1/4cup 60grams
ONEDAYBEFOREMAKEMOUSSE
1.Soakthegelatinsheetinabowloficewateruntilsoft,about20minutes.Ifusingpowderedgelatin,sprinkle1/2teaspoon(1.5grams)gelatinover1
1/2teaspoons(7.5grams)waterinasmallbowl,stir,andletsit20minutestobloom.
2.Whipthecreaminastandmixerfittedwithawhiskuntilitformsmedium-stiffpeaks.Transfertoamediumbowl,coverwithplasticwrap,andrefrigerateuntilneeded.
3.Bringthemilktoaboilinasmallpotovermediumheat.Removefromtheheat.
4.Ifusingagelatinsheet,squeezeoutanyexcesswater.Whiskthebloomedgelatinintothehotmilkuntilthegelatinisdissolved.
5.Placethedarkchocolateinamediumheatproofbowl.Pourthehotmilkoverthechocolateandletitstandfor30seconds.
6.Whiskthechocolateandmilkuntilsmooth.Whenfinished,theganacheshouldhavetheconsistencyofmayonnaise.Lettheganachecoolto100°F(38°C).3
7.Usingarubberspatula,foldone-thirdofthewhippedcreamintotheganacheuntiljustcombined.Foldtheremainingtwo-thirdsofthecreamintotheganacheuntilallthecreamhasbeenincorporated,foldinggentlysoasnottodeflatethecreambyovermixing.
8.Coverwithplasticwrappresseddirectlyonthesurfaceofthemousse,topreventaskinfromforming.Refrigerateforatleast12hourstoset.
MAKECREAM
1.Soakthegelatinsheetinabowloficewateruntilsoft,about20minutes.Ifusingpowderedgelatin,sprinkle1/2teaspoon(1.5grams)gelatinover11/2teaspoons(7.5grams)waterinasmallbowl,stir,andletsit20minutestobloom.
2.Combinethewhitechocolateandpeanutbutterinasmallbowl.3.Bringthecreamtoaboilinasmallpotovermediumheat.Removefromthe
heat.Ifusingagelatinsheet,squeezeoutanyexcesswater.Whiskthebloomedgelatinintothehotcreamuntilthegelatinisdissolved.
4.Pourthehotcreamoverthewhitechocolateandpeanutbutterandletstandfor30seconds.
5.Whiskthewhitechocolate,peanutbutter,andhotcreamuntilhomogeneousandsmooth.Whenfinished,thepeanutbuttercreamwillhaveaverylooseconsistency;itwillcontinuetosetovernight.Coverwithplasticwrappressed
directlyonthesurfaceofthecream,topreventaskinfromforming.Refrigerateforatleast12hourstoset.
MAKESOFTCARAMEL
1.Combine5tablespoonsplus1teaspoon(80grams)ofthecreamandthebrownsugarinasmallpot.Bringtoaboilovermediumheat.Removefromtheheatandkeepwarm.
2.Placeanemptymediumpotoverhighheat.Whenthepotishot,sprinkleathin,evenlayerofgranulatedsugarintothepot.Asthesugarmeltsandcaramelizes,slowlywhiskintherestofthesugar,onesmallhandfulatatime,untilallthesugarhasbeenadded.
3.Whenallofthesugarhascaramelizedandturnedlightamberincolor,slowlystreaminone-thirdofthehotcream,whiskingconstantly.Becareful!Thecreammightcausethecarameltosplatter.Whenincorporated,whiskinthenextthird,andthenthelast.Whenallofthecreamhasbeenadded,turndowntheheattolowandcontinuetocookthecarameluntilitreaches221°F(105°C),4to5minutes.Pourintoamediumheatproofbowlandletcoolcompletely.
4.Whenthecaramelhascooled,whiskintheremaining1tablespoonplus2teaspoons(25grams)heavycream.Coverwithplasticwrapandrefrigerateuntilneeded.4
MAKECARAMELIZEDPEANUTS
1.Lineasheetpanwithparchmentpaper.2.Combinethegranulatedsugarandwaterinamediumpot.Bringtoaboil
overmediumheat.3.Meanwhile,inamediumbowl,tossthepeanutswiththeconfectioners’sugar
tocompletelycoat.4.Continuetocookthegranulatedsugaruntilitreaches248°F(120°C).Add
thepeanutsandstirtocompletelycoatinthesyrup.5.Turntheheattolow.Continuetostiruntilthesugarcrystallizesonthe
outsideofthepeanuts,about1minute.6.Removethepeanutsfromtheheatandaddthecinnamonandsalt.Stirto
coatthepeanuts.Pouroutontothesheetpanandletcoolcompletely.Whencooled,storeinanairtightcontainer.
THEDAYOFMAKEANDBAKECHOUX
1.Make2batchesofpâteàchouxdough,page118.2.Placearackinthecenteroftheovenandpreheattheovento375°F(190°C)
forconventionalor350°F(175°C)forconvection.3.Cutthetipofapipingbagtosnuglyfita#869openstartip.Usingarubber
spatula,place2largescoopsofchouxdoughinthebagsothatitisone-thirdfull.Pushthedoughdowntowardthetipofthebag.5
4.Usea23/4-inch(7cm)ringcuttertotrace6circlesinpencilabout21/2inches(6cm)apartontheparchmentpaper.Fliptheparchmentoversochouxdoughwon’tcomeincontactwiththepencilmarksandplaceitonahalfsheetpan.
5.Holdingthepipingbagata90-degreeangleabout5/8inch(11/2cm)abovethepan,usetheoutlinedcirclesasyourguidetopipe6evencirclesabout3/4inch(2cm)thick.
6.Bakethechouxonthecenterrackfor15minutes.Rotatethepan180degreesandbakefor15minutesmore.Whenfinished,thechouxwillbegoldenbrownandfeellighttothetouch;inside,thechouxshouldbemostlyhollow.
7.Letthechoux,stillontheparchmentpaper,coolcompletelybeforefilling.
MAKECARAMELGLAZE
1.Combinethefondantand1/4cup(60grams)ofthesoftcaramelinasmallbowl.Warminthemicrowaveonhighpowerin20-secondintervals,stirringbetweenintervals.Whenfinishedthefondantshouldbeslightlywarm,95°to100°F(35°to38°C),andjustfluidenoughtofallbackinflatribbonsintothebowl.6
2.Coverwithplasticwrappresseddirectlyontothesurfaceofthefondant,topreventaskinfromforming,andsetaside.
ASSEMBLE
1.Toglazethechoux,dipthetopone-thirdofachouxintothecaramelfondantandpullstraightupoutofthefondant,lettinganyexcessdripoff.Turnthechouxglazedsideup,returntothesheetpan,andlettheglazesetforabout5minutes.Youcanuseyourfingerstohelpspreadtheglazeevenlyoverthetopandsweepoffanyglazethatmaybedripping.Repeatforallthechoux.7
2.Whentheglazeisset,useaserratedknifetogentlyslicethechouxinhalfhorizontally.Placethebottomhalves,cutsideup,onapieceofparchmentpaperontheworksurface.
3.Cutthetipsof3pipingbagstosnuglyfita#804plaintip.Usingacleanrubberspatulaforeach,place2largescoopsofsoftcaramel,chocolatemousse,andpeanutbuttercreaminseparatebagssothateachbagisone-thirdfull.
4.Holdingthepipingbagofcaramelata90-degreeangleabout1/2inch(1.25cm)abovethechoux,pipeacircleofcarameltocovertheentiretopofthechouxcircle.
5.Holdingthepipingbagofchocolatemousseata90-degreeangleabout1/2inch(1.25cm)abovethecaramel,pipe5or6largeteardropsspacedevenlyaroundeachcircle.Pipelargeteardropsofthepeanutbuttercreambetweenthedropsofchocolatemousse.
6.Coverwiththeglazedtopsofthechouxshellsandpressdownslightly.7.DecoratethetopofeachParis–NewYorkwithcaramelizedpeanuts.
Refrigeratebeforeserving.
1. If youcan’t findgelatin sheets,usepowderedgelatin.Onegelatin sheet=1 scant teaspoon(2.3 grams) powdered gelatin. For every teaspoon of gelatin, bloom in 1 tablespoon (15 grams)water.
2.Glazingfondantisalsoknownas“fondanticing”or“pastryfondant.”Itissimilartoroyalicingbutremainsshinywhenitsets.
3.Atthistemperature,theganachewillremainsmoothbutwon’tmeltthewhippedcream.
4.Ifthecaramelstartstoseparate,useahandblendertoquicklyreemulsifyit.
5.Usingastartipaddsextragroovestothetopsofthebakedchoux,whichallowsthemtoholdglazewithease.
6.Whenwarmingthefondant,itisimportantnottooverheatit.Thefondantshouldonlybeslightlywarmtothetouch.Overheatingthefondantwillcauseittoturndullandtocrackwhenitsets.Ifthefondantistoothick,addafewdropsofwatertothinitout.
7.Asyoudip,thefondantwillcool.Rewarmthefondantinthemicrowavein5-secondintervalsasneeded.
Whendipped,placethechouxintherefrigeratortosetthefondantmorequickly.
SERVING INSTRUCTIONS Let the pastry sit out for 5 minutes to temper beforeserving.
STORAGE INSTRUCTIONSConsumewithin 24 hours of building. Leftovermoussecan be kept in a closed airtight container in the refrigerator for 2 days; peanutbutter cream in a closed airtight container in the refrigerator for 2 days; soft
caramel in a closed airtight container in the refrigerator for5days; caramelizedpeanutsinaclosedairtightcontaineratroomtemperatureforweeks;andpâteàchouxinaclosedairtightcontainerintherefrigeratorforupto4days.
PERFECTLITTLEEGGSANDWICH
Ilovemakingthisrecipe...forasavorybreakfast.It’ssomethingInevergettiredof.
SKILLLEVELIntermediateTIME20minutesonedaybefore;2hours30minutesthedayofYIELD12to15sandwiches
TIMELINE
ONE DAY BEFORE Begin brioche THE DAY OF Shape and bake brioche; bakescrambledeggs;assemble
SPECIALTOOLS
StandmixerwithdoughhookattachmentPastrybrushRimmedquartersheetpan
INGREDIENTSBRIOCHEBreadflour 21/2cups,plusmoreas
neededfordusting305grams,plusmoreasneededfordusting
Koshersalt 1teaspoon 2grams
Granulatedsugar 3tablespoons 38grams
Granulatedsugar 3tablespoons 38grams
Instantyeast 2teaspoons 5grams
(preferablySAFGoldLabel)1
Wholeeggs(large) 4each 4each(200grams)
Wholemilk 1tablespoon 15grams
Unsaltedbutter(84%butterfat),cold,cutintosmalldice
13tablespoons 183grams
Eggwash(2eggs,1pinchsalt,andadashofmilk,beatentogether)
asneeded asneeded
BAKEDSCRAMBLEDEGGSUnsaltedbutter(84%butterfat) 31/2tablespoons 50gramsShallots,mediumdiced 3each 3each
Chives,finelychopped 1/4bunch 1/4bunch
Wholeeggs(large) 19each 19each(950grams)
Wholemilk 21/2cups 588grams
Koshersalt 2teaspoons 5gramsFreshlygroundblackpepper 1/2teaspoon 1gram
Gruyèrecheese,thinlysliced 12to15slices 12to15slices
ONEDAYBEFOREBEGINBRIOCHE
1.Combinethebreadflour,salt,sugar,yeast,andeggsinastandmixerfittedwithadoughhook.Mixonlowspeeduntilthedoughformsaball.Slowlypourinthemilkandmixonlowuntilcombined.Increasethespeedtomedium-highfor8to10minutesmoretodevelopthegluten,whichwillhelpthedoughholditsstructure.Itshouldpulloffthesidesofthebowlcleanlywhenit’sready.2
2.Whenthedoughhasreachedfullglutendevelopment,addthebutter,keepingthemixeronmedium-highspeed.Mixjustuntilthebutterisincorporated.Thefinisheddoughwillbesmooth,shiny,anddeepyellow.3
3.Lightlygreaseamediumbowlwithnonstickcookingspray.Transferthedoughtothebowlandcoverwithplasticwrappresseddirectlyontothesurface,topreventaskinfromforming.Proofthedoughatroomtemperatureuntildoubledinsize,about1hour30minutes.4
4.Removetheplasticwrapandpunchdownthedoughbyfoldingtheedgesintothecenter,releasingasmuchgasaspossible.Thiswillhelpstopthe
fermentationprocess.Coverthedoughagainwithplasticwrappresseddirectlyontothesurface.Refrigerateovernight.
THEDAYOFSHAPEANDBAKEBRIOCHE
1.Lightlydusttheworksurfacewithflour.Placethedoughontheworksurface.Usingaknife,dividethedoughintopiecesaboutthesizeofagolfball(13/4ounces/50gramseach).
2.Usingthepalmofyourhandandmoderatepressure,pressdownonthedoughandmoveyourhandinacircularmotiontotightentheball.(ThinkofthemotiontheydoinKarateKidfor“waxon,waxoff.”)Whenfinished,youshouldhavearollnobiggerthanyourpalm,withasmoothsurface.5
3.Lineasheetpanwithparchmentpaper.Placetherollsonthepanabout4inches(10cm)apart.Lightlydrapeapieceofplasticwrapovertherolls.Placethepaninawarmspotandproofuntildoubledinsize,about2hours.6
4.Whilethedoughisrising,placearackinthecenteroftheovenandpreheattheovento375°F(190°C)forconventionalor350°F(175°C)forconvection.
5.Whentherollshavedoubledinsize,lightlybrushthemwitheggwash,makingsurethedoughiscompletelycoated.
6.Baketherollsonthecenterrackforabout5minutes.Rotatethepan180degreesandbakefor5minutesmore.Whenfinished,therollswillbegoldenbrownandlightfortheirsize.
7.Lettherolls,stillontheparchmentpaper,coolcompletely.
BAKESCRAMBLEDEGGS
1.Iftheovenwasturnedoff,placearackinthecenteroftheovenandpreheattheovento325°F(160°C)forconventionalor300°F(150°C)forconvection.Linearimmedquartersheetpanwithparchmentpaper,lettingtheparchmenthangoverthesidesofthepan.(Thisallowsyoutolifttheeggsoutofthepanafterbaking.)2.Meltthebutterinamediumsautépan.Addthedicedshallotsandcookoverlowheatuntiltheybecometranslucentandtender.Takeyourtimeandletthemcaramelizeslowly.Spreadtheshallotsevenlyoverthepreparedsheetpan.Sprinklethechivesovertheshallots.
3.Whisktheeggs,milk,salt,andpeppertogetherinamediumbowluntilthoroughlycombined.Pourtheeggsintothesheetpan.Theyshouldcomeabout1inch(2.5cm)upthesidesofthepan.Baketheeggsonthecenter
rackfor12minutes.Rotatethepan180degreesandbakefor12minutesmore,untiltheeggsspringbackwhenpushedinthecenter.
4.Lettheeggs,stillinthepan,coolatroomtemperaturefor15minutes.5.Removetheeggsfromthepanbyliftinguptheparchmentpaperoverhang.
Inverttheeggsontoacuttingboardandpeelawaytheparchmentpaper.Usingachef’sknife,cuttheeggsinto2-inch(5cm)squares.
ASSEMBLE
1.Iftheovenwasturnedoff,placearackinthecenteroftheovenandpreheattheovento325°F(160°C)forconventionalor300°F(150°C)forconvection.
2.Usingaserratedknife,sliceeachrollinhalfhorizontally.Placethebottomhalvesoftherollsonasheetpan,placeasquareofbakedscrambledeggoneach,andtopwithasliceofGruyère.Bakeonthecenterrackoftheovenuntilthecheesemelts,about4minutes.
3.Removefromtheovenandaddthetopoftheroll.Serveimmediately.
1.Instantyeastisoftenusedfordoughswithhighersugarcontent,becausethisyeastneedslesswatertoreactandsugartendstopullwaterfromdough.Youcansubstitutethesamequantityofactivedryyeast,butyoumaygetadenserfinalproduct.
2.Agoodwaytocheckifdoughisreadyiscalledthe“windowpanetest.”Takeasmallpieceofdoughandrollitintoaball,thenslowlystretchthedoughoutfromthecenter.Iftheglutenisfullydeveloped, you shouldbe able to stretch thedough into a thin, translucent sheet. If thedoughtears,it’snotquiteready.Mixforaminuteortwomoreandtrythewindowpanetestagain.
3. When making brioche, it is very important that the dough does not overheat. If it does, thebutterwillstarttomeltandleakout,whichwillresultinadryfinishedproduct.
4.Whenproofingdoughathome,sometimesthekitchencanbetoowarm(especiallywhenthere’sother cooking happening). Try to find a spot to proof where the room temperature is not above75°F(24°C).
5. Rolling the dough this way helps improve the structure of the brioche and gives the roll asmoothexterior.
6.Here’sagoodwaytotestwhetherdoughisfullyproofed:stickyourfingerintothecenteroftheroll.Theindentationshouldfillinslowly.
SERVINGINSTRUCTIONSServewarmandfreshoutoftheoven.
STORAGE INSTRUCTIONS Eat the assembled sandwich immediately. The cookedeggscanbekeptintherefrigerator,wrappedinplastic,forupto2days.Brioche
canbekeptinaclosedairtightcontaineratroomtemperatureforupto2days.
BLACKANDBLUEPAVLOVA
Ilovemakingthisrecipe...asachicdaytimedessertthatislight-as-airandneveroverwhelming.
SKILLLEVELIntermediateTIME1hour30minutesonedaybefore;2hoursthedayofYIELD6pavlovas
TIMELINE
ONE DAY BEFOREMake ganache and compote THE DAY OFWhip ganache;makemeringues;assemble
SPECIALTOOLS
MicroplaneSmallsieve(forsiftingconfectioners’sugar)CandythermometerStandmixerwithwhiskattachment3uncutpipingbags
3uncutpipingbagsAteco#809plaintip(11/16-inch/1.75cmdiameter)3-inch(7.5cm)ringcutter
INGREDIENTSLEMONGANACHEGelatinsheet(160bloom)1 2each 2each
Heavycream 3/4cup+2tablespoons 188grams
Gratedlemonzest 1lemon 1lemon
Granulatedsugar 1/4cup 51gramsWhitechocolate,finelychopped 3/4cup 117grams
Lemonjuice 1/2cup+1tablespoon 141grams
BLUEBERRYCOMPOTEBlueberries 2cups 300grams
Granulatedsugar 3/4cup+1tablespoon+1teaspoon
171grams
Powderedpectin 2teaspoons 3.5gramsGratedlemonzest 1lemon 1lemon
Lemonjuice 1/2teaspoon 2grams
BLUEBERRYMERINGUESHELLSEggwhites(large) 7each 7each(210grams)
Granulatedsugar 1cup+2tablespoons 203grams
Confectioners’sugar,sifted 13/4cups 200gramsBlueberryextract 2drops 2drops
Violetfoodcoloring,gel 2drops 2drops
Blackberries 42each 42each
Confectioners’sugar asneeded asneeded
ONEDAYBEFOREMAKEGANACHE
1.Soakthegelatinsheetsinabowloficewateruntilsoft,about20minutes.Ifusingpowderedgelatin,sprinkle2teaspoons(6grams)gelatinover2tablespoons(30grams)waterinasmallbowl,stir,andletsit20minutestobloom.
2.Combinetheheavycream,lemonzest,andgranulatedsugarinasmallpot.Bringtoaboilovermediumheat.Removefromtheheat.
3.Ifusinggelatinsheets,squeezeoutanyexcesswater.Whiskthebloomedgelatinintothehotcreamuntilthegelatinisdissolved.
4.Placethewhitechocolateinalargeheatproofbowl.Pourone-thirdofthehotcreamoverthechocolate.Letstandfor30seconds.
5.Whiskthewhitechocolateandhotcreamuntilincorporated.Addtheremaininghotcreamandwhiskuntilsmooth.
6.Settheganacheasidetocool.Whenitreachesroomtemperature,whiskinthelemonjuice.Coverwithplasticwrappresseddirectlyontothesurfaceoftheganache,topreventaskinfromforming.Refrigerateovernighttoset.
MAKECOMPOTE
1.Bringabouttwo-thirdsoftheblueberriestoasimmerinasmallpotovermediumheat.Slowlywhiskin1tablespoonplus1teaspoon(14grams)ofthesugarandthepectinandbringtoaboilovermediumheat.2
2.Slowlystreamintheremaining3/4cup(145grams)sugar,whisking,andkeepingthecompoteataboil.Cookuntilthecompotereaches221°F(105°C)andthickenstoajam-likeconsistency.
3.Stirinthelemonzest,lemonjuice,andtheremainingblueberries.Removefromtheheatandtransfertoasmallbowl.Coverwithplasticwrappresseddirectlyontothesurfaceofthecompote,topreventaskinfromforming.Refrigerateuntilcompletelycooled,atleast45minutes.
4.Transferthecompotetoapipingbag.Refrigerateuntilneeded.
THEDAYOFWHIPGANACHE
Transferthelemonganachetoastandmixerfittedwithawhisk.Whiponhighspeeduntilitholdsamedium-stiffpeak,2to3minutes.Usingarubberspatula,place2 largescoopsofganacheinapipingbagsothat it isone-thirdfull.Pushtheganachedowntowardthetipofthebag.Refrigerateuntilneeded.3
MAKEMERINGUES
1.Placearackinthecenteroftheovenandpreheattheovento185°F(85°C)foraconventionalovenor160°F(70°C)forconvection.
2.Washanddrythemixerbowlandwhisk,makingsuretheyarecleanandfreeofanyresidue.Whiptheeggwhitesonmediumspeedinastandmixerfittedwithawhiskuntilfrothy.Slowlystreaminthegranulatedsugarinthreeadditions,makingsurethesugarisdissolvedbetweenadditions.Continuetowhiptheeggwhitesuntiltheyformstiffpeaks,2to3minutes.4
3.Removethebowlfromthemixerandusingarubberspatula,gentlyfoldintheconfectioners’sugarinthreeadditions,untilcompletelyincorporated.
Addtheblueberryextractandvioletfoodcoloringandcontinuetofolduntilthecolorisuniform.Becarefulnottooverworkthemeringue,oritwilllosevolumeandbecomesoft.
4.Cutthetipofapipingbagtosnuglyfita#809plaintip.Usingarubberspatula,place2largescoopsofmeringueinthebagsothatitisone-thirdfull.Pushthemeringuedowntowardthetipofthebag.
5.Lineahalfsheetpanwithparchmentpaper.Usea3-inch(7.5cm)ringcuttertotrace12circlesinpencilabout2inches(5cm)apartontheparchment.Fliptheparchmentoversothemeringuewon’tcomeincontactwiththepencilmarks.Ateachcorner,pipeasmalldotofmeringueundertheparchmentandpushtheparchmentflat.Thiswillhelpkeepit“glued”tothesheetpan.
6.Holdingthepipingbagata90-degreeangleabout1inch(2.5cm)abovethesheetpan,pipewithsteady,evenpressureuntilthemeringuefillstheguideline.Pullthepipingbagstraightuptocreateafinepoint.Youshouldhaveameringueshapedlikeabigteardrop.Repeatwiththeremainingguidelines.
7.Baketheshellsonthecenterrackfor25minutes.Theshellswillnotbebakedthroughyet.Removetheshellsfromtheovenandgentlypeelthemfromtheparchmentpaperwithyourhands.Iftheshellsdonotreleasefromtheparchmenteasily,returntotheoventobakefor10moreminutes.Placetheshellsonapieceofparchmentpaperontheworksurface.
8.Withtheflatbottomoftheshellfacingup,scoopouttheinsidewithaspoon,leavingathindomeofmeringueabout3/8inch(1cm)thick.Repeatwiththeremainingshells.
9.Returntheshellstothesheetpanwiththehollowed-outsidedownandbakeforanadditional30minutesoruntilcompletelydryontheinside.Letthemcoolcompletelyatroomtemperature.
10.Usingamicroplane,sandthepeaksoffhalfoftheshellstomakeaflatsurface.Thesewillbecomethebasesofthepavlovas.Reservealltheshellsinanairtightcontaineruntilneeded.
ASSEMBLE
1.Arrangethebasessothatthecavityisfacingup.Cutanopeningabout1/2inch(1.25cm)widestraightacrossthetipofthepipingbagfilledwithlemonganache.Pipealargedollopoflemonganache(about20gramsor11/2tablespoons)tofilleachbase.
2.Cutanopeningabout1/2inch(1.25cm)widestraightacrossthetipofthepipingbagfilledwithblueberrycompote.(Makesureit’slargeenoughforthewholeblueberries.)Pipeabout1tablespoon(20grams)ofcompoteontothecenterofthelemonganache.Continuewiththeremainingbaseshells.
3.Arrange6or7wholeblackberriesalongtheedgeofeachpavlovabase.Theberriesshouldcompletelycoverthefilling.
4.Restthetopshellsontheblackberries;ifnecessary,pipemorelemonganacheontheberriestohelpthetopstick.
5.Usingasmallsieve,dusteachpavlovawithconfectioners’sugar.Refrigerateuntilyouarereadytoserve.
1. If youcan’t findgelatin sheets,usepowderedgelatin.Onegelatin sheet=1 scant teaspoon(2.3 grams) powdered gelatin. For every teaspoon of gelatin, bloom in 1 tablespoon (15 grams)water.
2.Reserving some freshblueberries to addat theendwill ensure youget somenicechunksofblueberriesinthecompote.
Afteraddingthepectin,itisimportanttokeepthecompoteataboil,whilewhiskingconstantly.Adropintemperaturewillaffecthowthepectinsets.
3.Whippedganachewillgenerallyholdfor1day,butthetexturewillchangethesecondday,soitisalwaysbettertowhipjustwhatyouneed.
4.Thistypeofmeringue,whereyoudon’theatthesugar,iscalleda“Frenchmeringue.”
SERVING INSTRUCTIONS Let the pavlovas sit out for 5minutes to temper beforeserving.
STORAGE INSTRUCTIONS Pavlovas are best consumed the day they are assembled.Theycanbestoredintherefrigeratorforupto24hours.Leftovermeringuescanbestored inaclosedairtightcontainerat roomtemperature for1day.Leftovercompoteandlemonganachecanbestoredintherefrigeratorforupto2days.
PINKCHAMPAGNEMACARONS
Ilovemakingthisrecipe...forcelebratoryoccasionsrequiringalittleextraflashandsplendor.
SKILL LEVEL IntermediateTIME30minutes twodaysbefore;2hours30minutesonedaybefore;15minutesthedayofYIELD20to25macarons
TIMELINE
TWO DAYS BEFOREMake ganacheONE DAY BEFOREMake shells; fill and assembleTHEDAYOFServe
SPECIALTOOLS
Instant-readthermometerCandythermometerMediumsieveFoodprocessor(optional)
Foodprocessor(optional)StandmixerfittedwithwhiskattachmentPastrybrush2uncutpipingbagsAteco#803plaintip(5/16-inch/0.8cmdiameter)11/2-inch(4cm)ringcutter(optional)Ateco#804plaintip(3/8inch/1cmdiameter)
INGREDIENTSROSÉCHAMPAGNEGANACHEWater 2tablespoons 20grams
RoséChampagne 1/4cup+2tablespoons 96grams
Unsweetenedcocoapowder 11/2tablespoons 9grams
Heavycream 1/2cup 115gramsEggyolks(large) 3each 3each(60grams)
Granulatedsugar 3tablespoons 38grams
Darkchocolate(66%cocoacontent),finelychopped
1cup+1tablespoon 165grams
MACARONSHELLSAlmondflour 2cups 180grams
Confectioners’sugar,sifted 13/4cups 203gramsEggwhites(large) 5each 5each(150grams)
Redfoodcoloring,gel asneeded asneeded
Water 2tablespoons 30grams
Granulatedsugar 3/4cup 154grams
Goldleaf 25sheets 25sheets
TWODAYSBEFOREMAKEGANACHE
1.Combinethewater,2tablespoons(26grams)oftheChampagne,andthecocoapowderinasmallbowl.Whisktomakeasmoothpaste.
2.Combinetheheavycreamandtheremaining1/4cup(70grams)Champagneinasmallpot.Bringtoaboilovermediumheat.Removefromtheheat.
3.Whisktheeggyolksandgranulatedsugartogetherinasecondsmallbowl.Streamone-thirdofthehotcreamandChampagneintotheeggyolks,whiskingconstantlyuntilfullyblended,totemperthem.WhiskthetemperedyolksintotheremaininghotcreamandChampagneandreturnthepottomediumheat.
4.Continuetocookthecustardovermediumheat,whiskingconstantly.Thecustardwillthickenandbecomeapaleyellow.Whenthecustardreaches185°F(85°C)andisthickenoughtocoatthebackofaspoon,removeit
fromtheheat.Addthecocoapowderpasteandwhiskuntilfullyincorporated.
5.Placethechocolateinalargeheatproofbowl.Strainthecustardthroughamediumsieveoverthechocolate.Letstandfor30seconds.
6.Whiskthecustardandchocolatetogetheruntilsmooth,about30seconds.Whenfinished,theganachewillhavetheconsistencyofmayonnaise.Coverwithplasticwrappresseddirectlyontothesurfaceoftheganache,topreventaskinfromforming.Refrigerateovernighttoset.
ONEDAYBEFOREMAKESHELLS
1.Whiskthealmondflourandconfectioners’sugartogetherinamediumbowluntiltherearenolumps.1
2.Witharubberspatula,stirin3oftheeggwhites(90grams)tocreateathickpaste.Addredfoodcoloringasneededtoturnthebasedarkpink.2
3.Pourtheremaining2eggwhites(60grams)intoastandmixerfittedwithawhisk.Beginwhippingthemonmediumspeed.
4.Combinethewaterandgranulatedsugarinasmallpot.Mixwithyourhandtocreate“wetsand,”makingsureallthesugarismoistened.Setovermediumheatandbringtoaboil.Cookthesyrupwithoutstirringuntilitreaches241°F(116°C).3
5.Whentheeggwhiteshavetripledinvolumeandformmediumpeaks,turnthespeedtohighandslowlypourthehotsyrupdowntheinsideedgeofthebowl,makingsuretoavoidhittingthewhisk.Whenallthesyruphasbeenincorporated,continuetowhiponhighspeedfor1minutemore.4
6.Witharubberspatula,foldone-thirdofthemeringueintothealmondflourbase.Whenincorporated,foldintheremainingmeringue.Continuetogentlyfoldthemacaronbatteruntilallthelumpsaregone.Thebattershouldstillbeslightlywarmtothetouch.5
7.Cutthetipofapipingbagtosnuglyfita#803plaintip.Usingarubberspatula,place2largescoopsofmacaronbatterinthebagsothatitisone-thirdfull.Pushthebatterdowntowardthetipofthebag.6
8.Linetwohalfsheetpansoronelargesheetpanwithparchmentpaper.7Ateachcorner,pipeasmalldotofbatterundertheparchmentandpushtheparchmentflat.Thiswillhelpkeepit“glued”tothesheetpan.
9.Holdingthepipingbagata90-degreeangleabout1/2inch(1.25cm)abovethepan,pipedotsofmacaronbatter11/2inches(4cm)indiameter,spacingthemacaronsatleast2inches(5cm)apart.
10.Carefullytapthesheetpansbyliftingthemupafewinchesintheairanddroppingthemflatontheworksurface.Thiswillhelpspreadthebatterslightlyandknockoutanyairbubbles.
11.Letthemacaronsair-dryforabout1hour.Athinskinwillformonthemacaronssothatwhentheybaketheywillkeeptheirshape.8
12.Whilethemacaronsaredrying,placearackinthecenteroftheovenandpreheattheovento275°F(135°C)forconventionalor250°F(120°C)forconvection.
13.Bakethemacaronsonthecenterrackforabout10minutes.Rotatethepan180degreesandbakefor10minutesmore.Themacaronshellsshouldbedryandfirmtothetouch.Duringthebakingprocess,theywillslightlyrisefromthebaseandformthesignature“foot.”
14.Lettheshells,stillontheparchmentpaper,coolcompletely.Carefullypeelthemfromtheparchmentpaper.9
FILLANDASSEMBLE
1.Match2macaronshellsthatarethesamesize.Placethemflatsideupandslightlyindentthecenterofeachshellbygentlypressingwithyourthumb.Thiswillhelpcreateapocketfortheganache.Repeatforalltheshells.
2.Usingarubberspatula,worktheganacheintoasmoothpaste.3.Cutthetipofapipingbagtosnuglyfita#804plaintip.Usingarubber
spatula,place2largescoopsofganacheinthebagsothatitisone-thirdfull.Pushtheganachedowntowardthetipofthebag.
4.Holdingthepipingbagata90-degreeangleabout1/2inch(1.25cm)abovetheshell,pipealargedollopofganacheintothepocketofonehalfoftheshellpair.Theganacheshouldfillthepocketandcoverabouttwo-thirdsofthesurfaceoftheshell.
5.Sandwichthetwoshellstogether,pressinguntilathinlineofganacheisvisibleallthewayaroundthemacaron.Repeatwiththeremainingshells.
6.Returnthefilledmacaronstothesheetpanandcoverlooselyinplasticwrap.Refrigerateovernightsothemacaronscan“age.”Theymustspendsometimeintherefrigeratortoallowtheganachetoslowlysoftentheshell.10
THEDAYOFSERVE
1.Testtoensurethattheoutsideofthemacaronisstillcrispbuttheinsidehassoftened.Iftheinsideisstillcrisp,restintherefrigeratorforafewhourslonger.
2.Lightlydabadropofwateronthetopshellwithapastrybrush.Usingthetipofaparingknife,gentlyremoveapieceofgoldleafandlayitoverthemacaron.
1.Foranextrasmoothfinish,Iprefertoblendthealmondflourandconfectioners’sugartogetherinafoodprocessor.Justbecarefulnottooverworkthealmondflour.Ifyoudo,itwillreleaseoilsthatwillturnthemixtureintoapaste.
2. When adding food coloring to the base, keep in mind that you will mix this into a whitemeringue,whichwilllightenthecolorby3shadesormore.
3.Itisimportanttomakesuretheinsidewallofthepotisfreeofanygrainsofsugar,whichcouldcrystallizeandresultinagrainysyrup.Useawetpastrybrushtocleantheinsideofthepotasyoucook.
4.Howyoupour thesyrup into theeggwhites isvery important.Aimfor the insideedgeof thebowl,wherethewhiskdoesnottouch.Ifyoupourthesyrupontothewhisk,itwillsplashallovertheinsideofthebowlandpossiblyontoyourhands.Ifyoupourtoofast,youriskcookingtheeggwhitesanddeflatingthemeringue.Slowandsteadyisthewaytogo.
5.Theconsistencyof the finishedbatter is very important to the finalproduct.Overworking thebatterwillresultinaflatshell.Underworkingthebatterwillresultinagrainyshell.
6.Macaronbatterneedstobepipedrightaway,whileit’swarm,oritwillstarttosetandbecomeclumpy.
7. Ifpiping isnotyourstrongsuit,usea11/2-inch(4cm) ringcutter to tracecircles inpencilabout1inch(2.5cm)apartontheparchmentpaper.Fliptheparchmentoversothebatterwon’tcomeincontactwiththepencilmarks.
8.Ifthemacaronsdonotdryenough,theywillcrackandlosetheirshapewhenyoubakethem.It’sbettertoletthemdryafewextraminutesifyouareunsureiftheyareready.
9.Ifthemacaronssticktothepaper,placetheminthefreezerfor15minutesandtheyshouldreleasemuchmoreeasily.
10.Dependingonthemoisturecontentofthefilling,macaronsneedtoageforatleast24hoursintherefrigerator.
SERVINGINSTRUCTIONSEnjoyatroomtemperature.
STORAGEINSTRUCTIONSFilledmacaronscanbekeptinaclosedairtightcontainerin the refrigerator for up to 3 days and up to 1week in the freezer, if frozenimmediatelyaftertheyarefilled.Oncethawed,theycannotberefrozen.
APPLEMARSHMALLOW
Ilovemakingthisrecipe...asachicdaytimedessertthatislight-as-airandneveroverwhelming.
SKILLLEVELIntermediateTIME1hour30minutesonedaybefore;2hoursthedayofYIELD6pavlovas
SPECIALTOOLS
6plasticapplechocolatemolds,3inches(7.6cm)indiameterand23/4inches(7cm)high2paletteknives
WirerackStandmixerwithwhiskattachmentCandythermometer2uncutpipingbagsAirbrushSix8-inch(20cm)lollipopsticksParchmentpapercornet
INGREDIENTS
Milkchocolate,finelychopped 21/4pounds 1kilogram
Softcaramel(page121) 2batches 2batches
CINNAMONMARSHMALLOWGelatinsheet(160bloom)1 5each 5eachEggwhites(large) 3each(90grams) 3each
Granulatedsugar 11/4cups 260grams
Lightcornsyrup 3tablespoons 52grams
Water 1/3cup 77grams
Groundcinnamon 1teaspoon 2.5grams
DECORATINGRedcocoabutter 11/2cups 200grams
Marzipan 2tablespoons 30grams
Darkchocolate,andtightlypacked 1tablespoon 10grams
MAKECHOCOLATESHELLS
1.Meltandtemperthemilkchocolate(seepage242).2.Placeawirerackoverasheetpan(tocatchexcesschocolatethatdripsfrom
themolds).Oneatatime,fillthetwohalvesofanapplechocolatemoldwiththetemperedchocolateandletstandfor1minute.Invertthemoldoverthewirerackandlettheexcesschocolaterunoutofthecavity.Asthechocolatesets,useapaletteknifetoscrapeawayanyexcesschocolateonthemold.Thechocolateshellshouldbeaboutthethicknessofacreditcard.Repeatwiththeremainingmolds.Refrigerateabout45minutestoset.
3.Tounmold,twistthemoldslightly.4.Reservetheappleshellsinacoolplaceuntilyou’rereadytofillthem.
MAKESOFTCARAMEL
Makethesoftcaramel,page121.Fillapipingbagwiththesoftcaramelandsetaside.
MAKECINNAMONMARSHMALLOW
1.Soakthegelatinsheetsinabowloficewateruntilsoft,about20minutes.Ifusingpowderedgelatin,sprinkle4teaspoons(12grams)gelatinover5tablespoons(75grams)waterinasmallbowl,stir,andletsit20minutestobloom.
2.Placetheeggwhitesinastandmixerfittedwithawhisk.Beginwhippingthemonmediumspeed.2
3.Combinethegranulatedsugar,cornsyrup,andwaterinamediumpot.Bringtoaboilovermediumheatandcookthesyrupwithoutstirringuntilitreaches266°F(130°C).
4.Removethesyrupfromtheheat.Ifusinggelatinsheets,squeezeoutanyexcesswater.Whiskthebloomedgelatinintothehotsyrupuntilthegelatinisdissolved.Turnthemixertohighspeedandslowlypourthehotsyrupintothewhippedwhites,streamingitdowntheinsideofthebowltoavoidhittingthewhisk.
5.Continuetowhipthemarshmallowuntilalmostcompletelycooled,about5minutes.Addthecinnamonandwhipuntilitisincorporated.
6.Usingarubberspatula,place2largescoopsofcinnamonmarshmallowinanotherpipingbagsothatitisone-thirdfull.Pushthemarshmallowdowntowardthetipofthebag.
ASSEMBLE
1.Whilethemarshmallowisstillwarm,cutanopeningabout1/2inch(1.25cm)widestraightacrossthetipofthebag.Startingfromthecenteroftheappleshell,pipeinmarshmallowuntileachhalfappleshellisthree-quartersfull.Repeatwithremaininghalvesofthechocolateappleshells.
2.Cutanopeningabout1/2inch(1.25cm)widestraightacrossthetipofthepipingbagfilledwithsoftcaramel.Placethetipofthatbaginsidethecinnamonmarshmallowandpipeuntilthemarshmallowexpandstofilltheentirehalfoftheshell.Repeatwiththeremaininghalvesofthechocolateappleshells.
3.Fillamediumpotwithabout2inches(5cm)ofwaterandbringtoasimmerovermediumheat.Placeaninvertedsheetpanoverthepottowarm.Whenthepanfeelswarmtothetouch,lightlyrubtheedgeofthetophalfofanappleshellonthesurfacesothatitstartstomelt.Repeatwiththebottomhalfoftheappleshell.Lineupthemeltededgesofbothpiecestogluetogether.Useyourfingerstorubtheedgesandcreateafirmseal.
4.Covertheworkspacewhereyouwillbeairbrushingtheappleshellswithparchmentpaper.
5.Melttheredcocoabutterinamicrowaveforafewseconds(followtheinstructionsontheproduct).Fillyourairbrushwiththemeltedredcocoabutterandlightlyspraytheoutsideofeachchocolateapple.
6.Warmaparingknifeunderhotrunningwaterandwipeitdry.Makeasmallholeinthecenterofthetophalfofthechocolateapplewiththeknife.Placealollipopstickthroughtheholeandpressitintothemarshmallow.
7.Tocreateeach“worm,”rollapieceofmarzipanintoalog.Fillacornetwithasmallamountofmelteddarkchocolateandpipe2eyesontoeachworm.Placethewormsontopoftheapples.
1. If youcan’t findgelatin sheets,usepowderedgelatin.Onegelatin sheet=1 scant teaspoon(2.3 grams) powdered gelatin. For every teaspoon of gelatin, bloom in 1 tablespoon (15 grams)water.
2. Adding egg whites to marshmallow helps make the final product much lighter and fluffier.Because it will fill a chocolate shell and doesn’t need to hold its shape on its own, a softermarshmallowwillworkwellhere.
SERVINGINSTRUCTIONSServeatroomtemperature.Afunwaytoeattheappleistosliceitintosegmentsuponserving.
STORAGE INSTRUCTIONS Apple Marshmallows can be kept in a closed airtightcontaineratroomtemperatureforupto1week.
SUNFLOWERTART
Ilovemakingthisrecipe...forwhenIwanttoaddjustabitofjenesaisquoitotheendofameal.
SKILLLEVELIntermediateTIME3hours30minutesYIELD6individual3-inch(7.5cm)cheesecakesor1large8-inch(20cm)tart
SPECIALTOOLS
Instant-readthermometerSmallsieveSpicegrinder11/2-inch(4cm)siliconehalf-spheremoldsSix3-inch(7.5cm)tartrings1
Uncutpipingbag
INGREDIENTSPASSIONFRUITCURDGelatinsheet(160bloom)2 1each 1each
Passionfruitpurée 1/3cup+2tablespoons 96grams
Granulatedsugar 1/2cup+2tablespoons+1teaspoon
128grams
Wholeeggs(large) 3each 3each(150grams)Unsaltedbutter(84%butterfat),softened 8tablespoons 112grams
SPICEBLENDGroundginger 1/4teaspoon 1gram
Honeypowder 2tablespoons 15grams
Saffronthreads 1/2teaspoon 0.1gram
Pinkpeppercorns 1teaspoon 1gramFennelseeds 1teaspoon 2grams
APRICOTCOMPOTEGelatinsheet(160bloom)2 3each 3each
Freshapricots,pittedanddiced 2cups(about6apricots 400grams(6apricots)
Honey 1/4cup 75grams
Water 1/4cup+1/2tablespoon 50gramsSpiceblend(fromabove) 2teaspoons 8grams
Vanillasablétartshelldough (page130),unbaked
13/4cups 500grams
Freshapricots 6to8each 6to8each
Poppyseeds 1/2teaspoon 3grams
MAKEPASSIONFRUITCURD
1.Soakall4gelatinsheets(forboththepassionfruitcurdandapricotcompote)inabowloficewateruntilsoft,about20minutes.Ifusingpowderedgelatin,sprinkle1teaspoon(2.3grams)gelatinover1tablespoon(15grams)waterinonesmallbowland7teaspoons(15grams)gelatinover3tablespoons(45grams)waterinanothersmallbowl.Stirandletbothsit20minutestobloom.
2.Combinethepassionfruitpuréeand5tablespoons(64grams)ofthesugarinamediumpot.Bringtoaboilovermediumheat,thenremovefromtheheat.
3.Whisktheeggsandtheremaining5tablespoons(64grams)sugartogetherinasmallheatproofbowl.Streaminone-thirdofthehotpassionfruitpurée,whiskingconstantlyuntilfullyblended,totempertheeggs.Whiskthetemperedeggsintotheremaininghotpurée.Returnthepottomediumheat.
4.Whiskingconstantly,continuetocookthecurdovermediumheatuntilitreaches185°F(85°C).Itshouldbecreamyandthick.Removefromtheheat.
5.Squeezetheexcesswateroutof1gelatinsheet.Addthesheet(orsmalleramountofbloomedpowderedgelatin)tothecurdandwhiskuntilthe
gelatinisdissolved.Pourthepassionfruitcurdthroughasieveintoamediumheatproofbowl.3
6.Letthecurdcoolto113°F(45°C),stillhottothetouch.Usingawhisk,incorporatethebutteruntilsmooth.Coverwithplasticwrappresseddirectlyontothesurfaceofthecurd,topreventaskinfromforming.Refrigerateuntilset,about45minutes.
MAKESPICEBLENDANDAPRICOTCOMPOTE
1.Combineallthespicestogetherusingaspicegrinderandthensiftitthroughasmallsieve.
2.Combinethedicedapricots,honey,andwaterinamediumpotandbringtoasimmerovermediumheat.Cookuntiltheapricotsaresoftandasaucehasformed,about10minutes.
3.Removefromtheheat.Squeezeanyexcesswateroutoftheremaining3gelatinsheets.Addthegelatinsheets(ortheremainingbloomedpowderedgelatin)andthespicemixturetotheapricotsandstiruntilthegelatinisdissolved.
4.Placethesiliconehalf-spheremoldsonaquarterorhalfsheetpan.Portionabout1tablespoon(20grams)oftheapricotcompoteintothemolds.Coverlooselywithplasticwrapandfreezeuntilhard,2to3hours.
MAKEANDBAKETARTSHELLS
1.Makethevanillasablétartshelldough,page130.2.Rollout,cut,andfitthedoughintosix3-inch(7.5cm)tartrings.Returnto
therefrigeratortochillforabout30minutes.3.Whilethetartshellsarechilling,placearackinthecenteroftheovenand
preheattheovento350°F(175°C)forconventionalor325°F(160°C)forconvection.
4.Bakethetartshellsonthecenterrackfor8minutes.Rotatethepan180degreesandbakefor8minutesmoreoruntilthetartshellsaregoldenbrown.
5.Unmoldthetartshellswhilestillwarm.Letcoolcompletelyatroomtemperature.
ASSEMBLE
1.Usingarubberspatula,foldthepassionfruitcurduntilitissmooth.Usingthespatula,place2largescoopsofcurdinapipingbagsothatitisone-thirdfull.Pushthecurddowntowardthetipofthebag.
2.Cutanopeningabout1/2inch(1.25cm)widestraightacrossthetipofthe
pipingbagfilledwithpassionfruitcurd.Pipethecurdintoeachtartshelluntilitreachesabout1/4inch(6mm)fromthetopedge.
3.Unmoldtheapricotcompotedomes.Useaparingknifetotrimawayanyroughedgesifnecessary.Placeanapricotdomeflatsidedowninthecenterofeachtart.Pressgentlyintothecurd.
4.Usingaparingknife,cutthefreshapricotsinhalfverticallyandremovethepits.Slicetheapricothalvesasthinlyaspossible(preferablyaboutthethicknessofacreditcard).Rolltwoapricotslicestogethertocreateaspiral“petal.”Placethethinnerendofthepetalattheedgeofanapricotdome.Repeatuntilthedomeiscompletelysurroundedbypetals.Repeatfortheremainingtarts.
5.Sprinklepoppyseedsontheapricotdomeinthecenterofthetartsothatthedessertresemblesasunflower.Refrigerateuntilserving.
1.Ifyouwouldlikealargerorsmallertart,feelfreetousedifferentsizetartrings.
2. If youcan’t findgelatin sheets,usepowderedgelatin.Onegelatin sheet=1 scant teaspoon(2.3 grams) powdered gelatin. For every teaspoon of gelatin, bloom in 1 tablespoon (15 grams)water.
3.Forbestresults,strainthepassionfruitcurdbeforecooling.
SERVINGINSTRUCTIONSServechilledstraightfromtherefrigerator.
STORAGE INSTRUCTIONS The tarts should be consumed the day they are built.Leftover passion fruit curd can be kept in a closed airtight container in therefrigerator forupto2days.Leftover tart shellscanbekept inaclosedairtightcontaineratroomtemperatureforupto2days.
CHRISTMASMORNINGCEREAL
Ilovemakingthisrecipe...oneweekendinearlyDecemberandeatingabitofitdailyuntilChristmas!
SKILLLEVELIntermediateTIME3hours
YIELD6to8servings(about2cups/100gramsperserving)
SPECIALTOOLS
3half-sheetsiliconebakingmats(optional)
INGREDIENTS
MiniMe’s(page116;usecinnamonforflavoring),bakedandcooled
4cups 400grams
MILKCHOCOLATECEREALPuffedricecereal 10cups 250grams
Lightcornsyrup 1/3cup+2tablespoons 117grams
Granulatedsugar 1/3cup+2tablespoons 94grams
Milkchocolate,finelychopped 11/2cups 250grams
CARAMELIZEDHAZELNUTSWholeblanchedhazelnuts 11/2cups 220gramsLightcornsyrup 1tablespoon 12grams
Granulatedsugar 2tablespoons 26grams
MAKEMINIME’S
MakeMiniMe’s,page116.
MAKEMILKCHOCOLATECEREAL
1.Placearackinthecenteroftheovenandpreheattheovento365°F(185°C)forconventionalor340°F(170°C)forconvection.Linetwohalfsheetpanswithsiliconebakingmatsorparchmentpaper.
2.Combinethepuffedriceandcornsyrupinalargebowl.Stirwitharubberspatulaandaddthesugaruntilthecerealisevenlycoated.Spreadthecoatedcerealinasinglelayeronthehalfsheetpans.
3.Bakethecerealonthecenterrackfor4minutes.Rotatethepans180degreesandbakefor4minutesmoreoruntilgoldenbrown.
4.Letthecereal,stillontheparchmentpaper,coolcompletely.Breakthecerealinpiecesthesizeofnickelsintoacleanlargebowl.Setaside.
5.Melttwo-thirds(1cup/180grams)ofthemilkchocolateinasmallbowlinthemicrowaveonhighpowerin20-secondintervals.Stirbetweenintervalswithaheatproofspatulatoensureevenmelting.1
6.Addtheremaining1/2cup(70grams)choppedchocolatetothemeltedchocolateandstirwiththespatulauntilsmooth.Atthispoint,thechocolateshouldbetempered,butdouble-checkbydippingtheendofaspoonintothechocolateandlettingitsetatroomtemperature.Ifitsetswithoutstreaks,thenitisready.Ifnot,keepstirringandtestthechocolateagainuntilitsetswithasmoothshine.2(Seepage242ontempering.)7.Pourthetemperedmilkchocolateoverthecaramelizedcereal.Stirwiththespatulauntilthecerealisevenlycoated.Spreadthecoatedcerealinasinglelayeronthe2halfsheetpans.Refrigeratefor2hourstoset.
MAKECARAMELIZEDHAZELNUTS
1.Placearackinthecenteroftheovenandpreheattheovento375°F(190°C)forconventionalor350°F(175°C)forconvection.Lineahalfsheetpanwithasiliconebakingmatorparchmentpaper.
2.Combinethehazelnutsandcornsyrupinamediumbowl.Stirwitharubberspatulaandaddthesugaruntilthehazelnutsareevenlycoated.Spreadthehazelnutsinasinglelayeronthelinedpan.Bakethehazelnutsonthecenterrackfor8minutes.Rotatethepan180degreesandbakefor8minutesmoreoruntilgoldenbrown.
3.Letthehazelnuts,stillonthesiliconemat,coolcompletely.
ASSEMBLE
CombinetheMiniMe’s,milkchocolatecereal,andcaramelizedhazelnuts.Tosswell.
1.Topreventthechocolatefromburningyoushouldneverheatitinthemicrowaveformorethan30secondsatatime.Makesuretostirthechocolatebetweenintervals.
2. This is called “seeding” because you are adding little pieces of chocolate to the meltedchocolate to slowly cool down the temperature. It’s a preferred method of tempering when youdon’thavealargeworkspace.
SERVINGINSTRUCTIONSServewithice-coldwholemilk.
STORAGE INSTRUCTIONS The cereal can be kept in a closed airtight container atroomtemperatureforupto3weeks.
“LIMEMEUP”TART
Ilovemakingthisrecipe...becauseitofferseveryoneachancetoaddafinaltouch.
SKILLLEVELIntermediate
TIME2hours30minutesonedaybefore;1hours30minutesthedayofYIELD6tarts
TIMELINE
ONEDAYBEFOREMakemousse,meringue,limecurd,andchocolatedécorTHEDAY
OFMakeandbaketartshelldough;assemble
SPECIALTOOLS
StandmixerfittedwithawhiskCandythermometer3uncutpipingbagsAcetateorasiliconebakingmat6rectangulartartmolds,43/4by11/2by3/4inches(12by4by2cm)*orsix2
5/8(6.9cm)roundtartrings5
INGREDIENTSLIMEMOUSSE
Gelatinsheet(160bloom)1 2each 2each
Heavycream 1/3cup 76grams
Wholemilk 1/3cup 78gramsGranulatedsugar 2tablespoons 26grams
Limejuice 2tablespoons 40grams
Gratedlimezest 1/2lime 1/2lime
ITALIANMERINGUE2
Eggwhites(large) 3each 3each(90grams)
Granulatedsugar 1cup 205gramsWater 2tablespoons 28grams
LIMECURDGelatinsheet(160bloom)3 1/2each 1/2each
Limejuice 1/4cup 48grams
Gratedlimezest 1/2lime 1/2lime
Granulatedsugar 1/4cup+2tablespoons 77gramsWholeeggs(large;beat2eggsandmeasureoutthree-quarters)
41/2tablespoons 11/2each(75grams)
Unsaltedbutter(84%butterfat),softened 4tablespoons 56grams
Whitechocolatechips 11/3cups 200grams
Vanillasablétartshelldough(page130) 1cup 250grams
Brownsugar 1tablespoon+1teaspoon 15gramsMaldonsalt4 1tablespoon+1teaspoon 10grams
Driedjuniperberries,crushed 2teaspoons 4grams
Limewedges 6each 6each
ONEDAYBEFOREBEGINMOUSSE
1.Soakthegelatinsheetsinabowloficewateruntilsoft,about20minutes.Ifusingpowderedgelatin,sprinkle2teaspoons(6grams)gelatinover2tablespoons(30grams)waterinasmallbowl,stir,andletsit20minutestobloom.
2.Whipthecreaminastandmixerfittedwithawhiskuntilitholdsmedium-stiffpeaks.Transferthewhippedcreamtoamediumbowl.Coverwithplasticwrapandrefrigerate.
3.Bringthemilkandsugartoasimmerinasmallpotovermediumheat.Removefromtheheat.
4.Ifusinggelatinsheets,squeezeoutanyexcesswater.Whiskthebloomedgelatin,limejuice,andlimezestintothehotmilkuntilthegelatinis
dissolved.(Afteryouaddthelimejuice,themilkwillcurdleslightlyasitreactstotheacid,butkeepwhiskinganditwillcomebacktogether.)Setasideatroomtemperature.
MAKEMERINGUEANDFINISHMOUSSE
1.Pourtheeggwhitesintoastandmixerfittedwithawhisk.Beginwhippingtheeggwhitesonmediumspeed.
2.Meanwhile,combinethegranulatedsugarandwaterinasmallpot,usingyourhandstomixuntilyoureacha“wetsand”consistency.Makesuretherearenosugargrainsremainingaroundtheedgeofthepotbywipingthesidesofthepotwithawetpastrybrush.Bringthesugartoaboilovermediumheat.Cookthesyrupwithoutstirringuntilitreaches248°F(120°C),thetemperatureatwhichtheeggsarecookedandthemeringuestabilized.Removefromtheheat.Bynow,theeggwhitesshouldholdasoftpeak.Withthemixeronmediumspeed,slowlypourthehotsyrupdowntheinsideofthebowltoavoidhittingthewhisk.Continuewhippingthewhitesuntiljustslightlywarm,about4minutes.6
3.Measure1/4cup(30grams)ofthemeringueintoamediumbowl.Addone-thirdofthelimebasetothemeringueandgentlyfolduntilcombined.Addtheremainingtwo-thirdsofthelimebaseandfolditinwitharubberspatula.
4.Usingthespatula,foldone-thirdofthewhippedcreamintothelimeandmeringue.Whenallthecreamhasbeenincorporated,addtheremainingtwo-thirdsofthewhippedcreamandcontinuefoldinguntilthecreamiscompletelyincorporated.
5.Usingthespatula,place2largescoopsoflimemousseinapipingbagsothatitisone-thirdfull.
6.Lineahalfsheetpanwithacetateorasiliconebakingmat.Placethemoldsonthepan.Linethemoldswithacetatestrips.
7.Cutanopeningabout1/2inch(1.25cm)widestraightacrossthetipofthepipingbag.Pipethemousseintothemoldsuntilthemoussereachesjustabovetheedgeofthemold.Usingasmalloffsetspatula,levelthemoussetotheheightofthemold.Coverlooselywithplasticwrapandfreezeuntilset,about2hours.
8.Oneatatime,rubamoldwithyourhandstogentlywarmit.Unmoldthemousse,stillintheacetatestrips,backontothesheetpan.Coverwithplasticwrapandreturntothefreezer.
MAKELIMECURD
1.Soakthegelatinsheetinabowloficewateruntilsoft,about20minutes.Ifusingpowderedgelatin,sprinkle1/2teaspoon(1.5grams)gelatinover11/2teaspoons(7.5grams)waterinasmallbowl,stir,andletsit20minutestobloom.
2.Whiskthelimejuice,limezest,and2tablespoons(26grams)ofthegranulatedsugartogetherinamediumpotandbringtoaboilovermediumheat.Removefromtheheat.
3.Whisktheeggsandtheremaining2tablespoons(33grams)granulatedsugarinamediumheatproofbowl.Streamone-thirdofthehotlimejuiceintotheeggs,whiskingconstantlyuntilfullyblended,totemperthem.Whiskthetemperedeggsintotheremaininghotjuiceandreturnthepottomediumheat.
4.Continuetocookthecurdovermediumheat,whiskingconstantly,untilthecurdthickenstoacustardyconsistencyandbeginstobubble.Removefromtheheat.
5.Ifusingagelatinsheet,squeezeoutanyexcesswater.Whiskthebloomedgelatinintothehotcurduntilthegelatinisdissolved.Strainthecurdthroughamediumsieveintoamediumbowlandsetasidetocool.
6.Whenthecurdcoolsto113°F(45°C),whiskinthebutteruntilsmooth.7.Coverwithplasticwrappresseddirectlyontothesurfaceofthecurd,to
preventaskinfromforming.Refrigerateuntilset,about4hours.8.Usingarubberspatula,place2largescoopsoflimecurdinapipingbagso
thatitisone-thirdfull.Pushthecurddowntowardthetipofthebag.Refrigerateuntilneeded.
MAKECHOCOLATEDÉCOR
1.Meltandtemperthewhitechocolate(seepage242).Transferthewhitechocolatetoapipingbag.
2.Cutasmallholeinthebag(aboutthesizeofadime).Pipe6dotsofthechocolate,spaced11/2inches(4cm)apart,onanacetatesheet.Usingachef’sknifeatanangle,pressthetipoftheknifeintothechocolateandslowlypulltheknifeupandaway,dragginga“tail”ofwhitechocolateasyouremovetheknife.Laytheacetateoverarollingpintocurvethepetal.Letsetatroomtemperaturefor12hoursbeforeremovingthechocolatepetalsfromtheacetate.6
THEDAYOFMAKEANDBAKETARTSHELLS
Make the vanilla sablé dough recipe, page 130. Cut to fit the rectangular tartmolds.Bakeandunmold.Setasidetocooltoroomtemperature.
ASSEMBLE
1.Combinethebrownsugar,salt,andcrushedjuniperberriesinasmallbowl.2.Cutanopeningabout1/2inch(1.25cm)widestraightacrossthetipofthe
pipingbagfilledwithlimecurd.Pipethecurdintothetartshells,fillingthemuntilthecurdjustcomesoverthetopedge.Usingasmalloffsetspatula,levelthecurdsothatitisthesameheightasthetartshells.
3.Placethelimemousseontopofthecurdinthetartshells.Themousseshouldbetheexactsamesizeasthetartshell.Whenallthetartshellshavebeenfilled,placethemintherefrigeratortothawcompletely,about1hour.
4.Usingaparingknife,cut1/2inch(11/2cm)offthetipofeachmoussetocreatealedge.Placealimewedgewherethemoussewascutaway.
5.Warmachef’sknifeunderhotwaterandcutintothecenterofthemousseatananglealongthelengthofthemousse.Repeatatanoppositeangle,creatingasmalltrianglecutaway.Thisgroovewillholdthesugar–seasalt–junipermixture.
6.Fillawhitechocolatepetalwiththesugar–seasalt–junipermixtureandplaceinthegrooveinthemousse.Refrigerateuntilyouarereadytoserve.
1.Ifyoucan’tfindrectangulartartrings,youcansubstitute21/2-inch(6.5cm)diameterroundtartrings.
2. If youcan’t findgelatin sheets,usepowderedgelatin.Onegelatin sheet=1 scant teaspoon(2.3 grams) powdered gelatin. For every teaspoon of gelatin, bloom in 1 tablespoon (15 grams)water.
3.Formoststandmixers,21/2cups(300grams)isthesmallestamountofItalianmeringuethatcanbemade.Soforthisapplicationyouwillhavetomakeextraandmeasureoutwhatyouneed,1/2cup(30grams).Theremainingmeringuecanbeusedforanotherrecipe.
4.Ifyoucan’tfindMaldonsalt,youcanusefleurdeseloraflakyseasalt.
5.This iscalled“Italianmeringue.”It isusedmostly infruitmoussesandismadewithcookedsugarsyrup.
6.Ifthepetalsdon’tpeelofftheacetatecleanly,youcanplacethemintherefrigeratorfor10to15minutesbeforeunmolding.
SERVINGINSTRUCTIONSLetthetartssitoutfor5minutestotemperbeforeserving.
STORAGE INSTRUCTIONS Tarts are best if consumed within 24 hours of making.Leftovermousse and lime curd can be kept in closed airtight containers in therefrigerator for 2 days. Leftover tart shells can be kept in a closed airtightcontaineratroomtemperatureforupto2days.
FROZENS’MORES
Ilovemakingthisrecipe...onthosenightsduringthewinterwhenit’scoldbutIstillfeellikeeatingicecream.
SKILLLEVELIntermediateTIME3hoursonedaybefore;1hour30minutesthedayofYIELD12s’mores
TIMELINE
ONEDAYBEFOREMakeicecream;shapeicecream;makechocolatefeuilletineTHE
DAYOFBeginassembly;makemarshmallow;smokebranches;finishassemblyandbrûlée
SPECIALTOOLS
2siliconebakingmatsRuler12rectangularringmolds,21/2by13/4by13/4inches(6.5cmby4.5cmby4.5cm)Candythermometer
StandmixerwithwhiskattachmentUncutpipingbag
UncutpipingbagSmalloffsetspatula12woodenbranchesorsticks,12inches(30.5cm)longSmokinggun(optional)Applewoodchips(optional)Blowtorch
INGREDIENTS
VanillaIceCream(page124),freshlychurned
1quart 1liter
CHOCOLATEFEUILLETINEDarkchocolate(66%cocoacontentor
greater),finelychopped1/2cup 87grams
Koshersalt 1/2teaspoon 1gram
Feuilletine1 1cup 94gramsNonstickcookingspray asneeded asneeded
MARSHMALLOWPowderedgelatin 3tablespoons 24grams
Water 1/3cup+3tablespoons 101grams
Granulatedsugar 2cups 410grams
Lightcornsyrup 1/2cup+1tablespoon 202gramsHoney 3tablespoons 65grams
Water 1/3cup+3tablespoons 101grams
ONEDAYBEFOREMAKEICECREAM
Makethevanillaicecream,page124.
SHAPEICECREAM
1.Lineasheetpanwithasiliconebakingmat.Placeinthefreezerfor30minutestochillbeforeusing.
2.Usingarubberspatula,spreadthejust-churnedicecream,whichisstillrelativelysoft,onthesheetpanintoarectangleabout10by8inchesand3/4inchthick(25by20by2cm).Freezeuntilset,about4hours.
3.Inverttheicecreamontoapieceofparchmentpaper.Removethesiliconematandcuttwelve11/4by1–inch(2.5by2cm)rectanglesoficecream.Returntherectanglesoficecreamtothesheetpan,coverwithplasticwrap,andreserveinthefreezeruntilneeded.2
MAKECHOCOLATEFEUILLETINE
1.Lineanothersheetpanwithparchmentpaper.Meltthedarkchocolateinamediumbowlinthemicrowaveonhighpowerin20-secondintervals.Stirwithaheatproofspatulabetweenintervalstoensureevenmelting.Whenthechocolateiscompletelymelted,stirinthesalt.Addthefeuilletineandstiruntilthefeuilletineisevenlycoatedinchocolate.Spreaditonthesheetpaninanevenlayer.Refrigerateuntilsetcompletely.
2.Whencold,breakupanylargepiecesofchocolate-coatedfeuilletine,coverwithplasticwrap,andreturntotherefrigeratoruntilneeded.
THEDAYOFBEGINASSEMBLY
1.Coateachrectangleoficecreaminthefeuilletine,makingsureallsidesarecovered.Returnthecoatedicecreamtothefreezer.
2.Lineasheetpanwithasiliconebakingmat.Place12rectangularringmoldsonthesheetpanandlightlygreasewithnonstickspray.
MAKEMARSHMALLOW
1.Sprinklethegelatinoverthewaterinasmallbowl.Stirandletsitforabout20minutestobloom.
2.Combinethegranulatedsugar,cornsyrup,honey,andwaterinamediumpotandbringtoaboilovermediumheat.Cookwithoutstirringuntilthesyrupreaches250°F(121°C).
3.Carefullypourthehotsyrupintoastandmixerfittedwithawhiskandaddthebloomedgelatin.Whiponlowspeeduntilthegelatiniscompletelydissolved.Increasethespeedtomedium-highandcontinuetowhipfor4to6minutes.Thesyrupwillturnwhiteandquadrupleinvolume.Whenthemarshmallowisfirmenoughtoholdamedium-stiffpeak,stopwhipping.3
4.Usingarubberspatula,place2largescoopsofmarshmallowinapipingbagsothatitisone-thirdfull.Pushthemarshmallowdowntowardthetipofthebag.Cutanopeningabout1inch(2.5cm)widestraightacrossthetipofthebag.4
5.Whilethemarshmallowisstillwarm,filleachringmoldaboutthree-quartersfull.Pusharectangleoficecreamintothecenterofthemarshmallowineachmold,whichwillcausethemarshmallowtopushupandoverthesidesofthemold.Pipeinasmallamountofmarshmallowtocoveranyexposedicecream.Usingasmalloffsetspatula,levelthemarshmallowsoitistheexactheightofthemold.5
6.Afterallthemoldshavebeenfilled,letthemsetquicklyfor1to2minutes,thenunmoldthes’moresbyliftingthemoldwhileholdingthemarshmallowdownwithyourfinger.Freezeuntilset,about2hours.
SMOKEBRANCHESORSTICKS(OPTIONAL)Forextraflavor,placethebranchesorsticksinasealableplasticbag.Fitthetipofasmokinggunfilledwithapplewoodchipsintothebagandseal.Letthesmokefillthebagandclose.Setasidefor30minutes,sothebranchesorstickscanabsorbthesmoke.6
FINISHASSEMBLYANDBRÛLÉE
Remove the s’mores from the freezer andpushabranchor stick througheachcenter.Holdthetipofablowtorch3to4inches(7.5to10cm)awayfromthes’moreandbrûléetheentiresurfaceofthemarshmallow.Serveimmediately.
1. If you can’t find feuilletine, you can use any kind of crispy wafers or cookies. Try crushedgrahamcrackers.
2.After portioning the vanilla ice cream for the frozen s’mores, youwill have leftovers.Enjoy ascoopofvanillaicecreamforasnack.
3.Speedisveryimportanthere.Themarshmallowshouldbeusedwhilestillhotoritwillsetveryquickly.Makesureyouhavepreparedalltheotheritemsneededtoassemblethes’moresbeforestartingthemarshmallow.
4. Extra marshmallow can be spread on a sheet pan. After it has set, cut it into cubes for hotchocolate.
5.Ifthemarshmallowstartstostiffenandcool,microwavethepipingbagfor5to10seconds.
6.It’spreferabletouseasmokinggunoutdoors.
SERVINGINSTRUCTIONSServeimmediatelyaftertoasting.
STORAGEINSTRUCTIONSThefrozens’mores,withoutsticks,canbekeptinaclosedairtight container in the freezer for up to 1 week. Leftover feuilletine can beeatenasasnackorsprinkledontopoficecream.Leftovermarshmallowcanbekept ina thepipingbag foradayandmicrowaved fora fewsecondsand thenusedtomakemores’mores.
ARLETTE
Ilovemakingthisrecipe...becauseitisoneofthemostmarvelousofcookiesandasighttobehold.
SKILLLEVELIntermediateTIME1hour15minutesonedaybefore;1hourthedayofYIELD8arlettes
TIMELINE
ONEDAYBEFOREMakedoughandbutterblock;makethreefoldsTHEDAYOFRollandbake
SPECIALTOOLS
StandmixerwithdoughhookandpaddleattachmentsRulerLargeoffsetspatula
INGREDIENTSPUFFPASTRYDOUGHBreadflour 1cup,plusmoreasneeded
fordusting140grams,plusmoreasneededfordusting
Koshersalt 21/2teaspoons 5grams
Whitevinegar 1/2teaspoon 1gram
Water,cold 1/4cup+1/2tablespoon 75gramsUnsaltedbutter(84%butterfat),softened 4tablespoons 56grams
BUTTERBLOCKAll-purposeflour 1/3cup+1tablespoon 108grams
Unsaltedbutter(84%butterfat),softened 8tablespoons 112grams
CINNAMONSUGARGranulatedsugar 2cups 410grams
Groundcinnamon 1tablespoon+1teaspoon 10grams
ONEDAYBEFOREMAKEDOUGH
1.Combinethebreadflour,salt,vinegar,coldwater,andbutterinastandmixerfittedwithadoughhook.Mixonlowspeeduntiljustblended,about21/2minutes.Thedoughshouldlookrough—there’sbeennoglutendevelopmentatthisstage.1
2.Dusttheworksurfacewithextrabreadflour.Withyourhands,shapethedoughintoa4-inch(10cm)squareabout3/8inch(1cm)thick.Coverwithplasticwrapandrefrigerateuntilchilled,about45minutes.
MAKEBUTTERBLOCK
1.Combinetheall-purposeflourandbutterinastandmixerfittedwithapaddle.Mixonlowspeed,scrapingdownthesidesandbottomofthebowl,untiltherearenostreaksofbutter.Themixtureshouldstillfeellikesoftbutter.
2.Drawa7-inch(18cm)squareonapieceofparchmentpaperwithapencil.Fliptheparchmentoversothatthebutterwon’tcomeincontactwiththepencilmarks.Placethebutterinthecenterofthesquareandspreaditevenlywithanoffsetspatulatofillthesquare.Refrigerateforabout20minutes,untilfirmbutstillpliable.
3.Removethebutterfromtherefrigerator.Itshouldstillbesoftenoughtobendslightlywithoutcracking.Ifitistoofirm,lightlybeatthebutterwitharollingpinonalightlyflouredworksurfaceuntilitbecomespliable.Makesuretopressthebutterbacktoitsoriginal7-inch(18cm)squareafterworkingit.
4.Arrangethechilleddoughinthecenterofthebutterblocksoitlookslikeadiamondinthecenterofthesquare(rotated45degrees,withthecornersofthedoughfacingthecenterofthebutterblocksides).
5.Foldthecornersofthebutterblockupandovertothecenterofthedough.Thebutterblockshouldcompletelycoverthedough.Pinchtheseamsofthebutterblocktogethertopreventthedoughfrompeekingthrough.2
MAKEFIRSTFOLD
1.Generouslyflourtheworksurfaceandrollingpin.You’llneedaratherlargeworksurfaceforthistask.Withtherollingpin,usingsteady,evenpressure,rollthebutter-covereddoughoutfromthecentersoittriplesinlength.Whenfinishedrolling,youshouldhavearectangleabout12by61/2by1/4inch(30cmby16.5cmby6mm).3
2.Placethedoughsothelongersidesrunlefttoright.Fromtherightside,foldone-thirdofthedoughontoitself,keepingtheedgeslinedupwitheachother.Fromtheleftside,foldone-thirdofthedoughontopofthesidethathasalreadybeenfolded.Lineupalltheedgessothatyouareleftwithanevenrectangle.Thedoughisbeingfoldedasifitwereapieceofpapergoingintoanenvelope;thisiscalleda“letterfold.”Wrapthedoughinplasticwrapandrefrigeratefor15to20minutestorest.4
MAKESECONDANDTHIRDFOLDS
1.Removethedoughfromtherefrigerator.Itshouldbefirmbutnothard.(Ifitisnotpliable,letitsitbrieflytosoften.)Placeonalightlyflouredworksurface.Witharollingpin,usingsteady,evenpressure,rollthedoughoutfromthecenterverticallyfromtoptobottom.Thedoughshouldtripleinlengthandincreaseinwidth11/2times;thiswilltakeseveralpasses.Whenfinished,youshouldagainhavearectangleabout12by61/2by1/4inch(30cmby16.5cmby6mm).5
2.Rotatethedoughsothelongersidesrunlefttoright.Thistime,fromtherightsidefoldone-quarterofthedoughontoitself.Fromtheleftsidefoldone-quarterofthedoughontoitself.Thetwoendsshouldmeetinthemiddleofthedough.Foldthedoughinhalfwheretheendsmeet.Youwillhave4layersofdoughontopofoneanother.Thisiscalleda“doublebookfold.”Wrapthedoughagaininplasticwrapandrefrigeratefor15to20minutestorest.
3.Repeatthesecond(doublebook)foldagain.Wrapthedoughinplasticwrapandrefrigerateovernight.
THEDAYOFROLLANDBAKE
1.Combinethegranulatedsugarandcinnamoninasmallbowlusingyourhands.Reserveuntilneeded.Lineasheetpanwithparchmentpaper.
2.Removethepuffpastryfromtherefrigerator.Placeitonalightlyflouredworksurface.Witharollingpin,usingsteady,evenpressure,rollthedoughoutfromthecenter.Thedoughshouldtripleinlengthandincreaseinwidth11/2times.Thiswilltakeseveralpasses.Whenfinished,youshouldagainhavealongrectangleabout12by61/2by1/4inch(30cmby16.5cmby6mm).Generouslysprinklethedoughwith1/2cupofcinnamonsugarinanevenlayer.6
3.Rotatethedoughsothelongersiderunslefttoright.Startingatthebottom,rollthedoughtightlyintoalogabout1inch(2.5cm)indiameter.Slicethedoughinto8equalsegments,eachabout13/4inches(4.5cm)thickandweighing13/4ounces(50grams).
4.Withthespiralfacinguponeachsegment,flattenthedoughsegmentslightlywiththepalmofyourhanduntileachisaroundabout2inches(5cm)indiameter.Placeonthesheetpan.Refrigeratefor20minutestorest.
5.Whilethedoughisresting,placearackinthecenteroftheovenandpreheattheovento375°F(190°C)forconventionalor350°F(175°C)forconvection.Invertahalfsheetpanandplaceasheetofparchmentpaperontheflatside.
6.Sprinklemorecinnamonsugargenerouslyontheworksurface.Placeoneofthepuffpastryroundsonthecinnamonsugar.Witharollingpin,usingsteady,evenpressure,rollfromthecenterofthedoughupandthendown.Asthedoughstickstothecounter,sprinklewithmorecinnamonsugar.Repeatuntilyouhavealongovalabout10inches(25cm)longand4inches(10cm)wide.Thedoughshouldbethinenoughtoseethroughit.Gentlyplacethearletteontheparchmentpaper–coveredsheetpan.Repeatwithmoredoughpieces,leaving4inches(10cm)betweenarlettesontheparchment.(Twoarlettesshouldfitoneachhalfsheetpan.Keeptheremainingdoughintherefrigerator.)7
7.Layasecondpieceofparchmentpaperontopofthearlettes.Layasecondhalfsheetpanontopoftheparchment,sandwichingthearlettesbetweenthetwopans.
8.Bakethearlettesonthecenterrackfor9minutes.Rotatethepans180degreesandbake9minutesmore.Removefromtheovenandtakeoffthe
toppanandparchmentpaper.Thearlettesshouldbeadeepgoldenbrown.Letthearlettes,stillontheparchmentpaper,coolcompletely.
9.Letthepanscool,thenshapeandbaketheremainingarlettesinthesamefashion.
1.Breadflourhasmoreglutenthanall-purposeflour.It’sidealforlaminateddoughsandbread-likedoughsthatwillneedtobeshaped.
2.Wheneverfoldingbutter,itisimportanttoworkswiftlytoensureitdoesn’tmelt.Therearetwodifferenttypesofpuffpastry.Whenthebutterisontheinside,itisregularpuff
pastry.Whenitisontheoutside(asinthecasehere),itisinversepuffpastry,whichcanresultinaflakier,morecaramelizedpastry.
3.Keepingtheshapeofthedoughisveryimportantatthispointtoensureevenlayers.
4.Restingthedoughrelaxestheglutenandkeepsthebutterchilled.
5.Whenrollingoutthedough,it’salwaysbesttohavetheopenseamsonthetoptoensurethelayersremainevenanddon’tslidewhenyouarerolling.
6.Sugardrawsoutmoisturefromdough,soonceitisadded,itisimportanttoworkswiftly.
7.Relaxingthedoughisaveryimportantpartofthisprocess,Makesuretoliftthedoughoffthesurfaceeveryfewpasseswiththerollingpin,allowingittocontractslightly.Thisslightrelaxationwillhelpwiththeshapeofthefinalproduct.
SERVINGINSTRUCTIONSServeatroomtemperature.
STORAGEINSTRUCTIONSArlettesshouldbeconsumedthedaytheyarebaked.Puffpastrydoughcanbekeptinthefreezer,wrappedwell,forupto1week.
ADVANCEDRECIPES
CHOCOLATECAVIARTART
Ilovemakingthisrecipe...andservingitwithasparklingdessertwine.
SKILL LEVEL Advanced TIME 2 hours 30 minutes one day before; 1 hour 30minutesthedayofYIELD6tarts
TIMELINE
ONEDAYBEFOREMakeganache,softcaramel,tartshells,andchocolatecaviarTHE
DAYOFBaketartshells;makeChantillycream;assemble
SPECIALTOOLS
MediumsieveInstant-readorcandythermometerStandmixerwithpaddleandwhiskattachments3-inch(7.5cm)ringcutter(optional)
Six3-inch(9.5cm)tartringsLargebowl,atleast4inches(10cm)deepPrecisiongramscale(optional)Plasticbottlewithdriptip2uncutpipingbags
2uncutpipingbagsSmalloffsetspatula25/8-inch(6.9cm)ringcutter
INGREDIENTSWHIPPEDCOFFEEGANACHEGelatinsheet(160bloom)1 1/2each 1/2each
Coffeebeans 1/4cup 17grams
Heavycream 3/4cup,plusmoreasneeded 190grams,plusmoreasneeded
Whitechocolatechips 1/4cup 42gramsSoftcaramel(page121) 2batches 2batches
CHOCOLATESABLÉTARTSHELLUnsaltedbutter(84%butterfat),softened 5tablespoons 70grams
Confectioners’sugar 1/3cup 41grams
Wholeegg(large;beat1eggandmeasureouthalf)
1/2each 1/2each(24grams)
Unsweetenedcocoapowder 1/4cup 23gramsAll-purposeflour 1/2cup+1tablespoon,plus
moreasneededfordusting83grams,plusmoreasneededfordusting
Koshersalt 1pinch 1pinch
Almondflour 3tablespoons 17grams
CHOCOLATECAVIARGrapeseedoil(forformingthechocolatecaviar) 71/2cups 1.5kilograms
Gelatinsheet(160bloom)1 31/2each 31/2eachWholemilk 1/2cup+1tablespoon 132grams
Heavycream 1/4cup 58grams
Granulatedsugar 1/4cup 51grams
Powderedagar 3/4teaspoon 2grams
Cocoapaste,finelychopped 3tablespoons 25gramsBlackfoodcoloring,gel 1teaspoonorasneeded 2gramsorasneeded
VANILLACHANTILLYCREAMHeavycream 1cup 240grams
Granulatedsugar 2tablespoons 20grams
Vanillabean(preferablyTahitian),splitlengthwise,seedsscraped
1/2each 1/2each
Goldleaf(optional) 2sheets 2sheets
ONEDAYBEFOREMAKEGANACHE
1.Soakthegelatinsheetsinabowloficewateruntilsoft,about20minutes.Ifusingpowderedgelatin,sprinkle2teaspoons(6grams)gelatinover2tablespoons(30grams)waterinasmallbowl,stir,andletsit20minutestobloom.
2.Placethecoffeebeansinaheavyresealableplasticbag.Usingarollingpin,gentlycrushthebeans.
3.Bringtheheavycreamtoaboilinasmallpot.Removefromtheheatandaddthecrushedcoffeebeans.Coverthepotwithplasticwrapandsetitasidetoinfusefor15minutes.
4.Straintheinfusedcreamthroughamediumsieveintoameasuringcup.Addmoreheavycreamtoreturnittotheoriginalamount.Returnthecreamtothesmallpotandbringtoaboilagainovermediumheat.Discardcoffeebeans.
5.Removethecreamfromtheheat.Ifusingagelatinsheet,squeezeoutanyexcesswater.Whiskthebloomedgelatinintothehotcreamuntilthegelatinisdissolved.
6.Placethewhitechocolatechipsinasmallheatproofbowl.Pourthehotcreamoverthechipsandletstandfor30seconds.
7.Whiskthechipsandcreamuntilhomogeneousandsmooth.Coverwithplasticwrappresseddirectlyontothesurfaceoftheganache,topreventaskinfromforming.Refrigerateovernighttoset.
MAKESOFTCARAMEL
Makethesoftcaramel,page121.
MAKETARTSHELLS
1.Creamthebutterandconfectioners’sugaronlowspeedinastandmixerfittedwithapaddleuntilcombined,about30seconds.Addtheeggandcontinuetobeatuntilfullyblended.Stopthemixerandusingarubberspatula,scrapedownthesidesofthebowl.Continuetomixuntilsmooth.
2.Combinethecocoapowder,all-purposeflour,salt,andalmondflourinamediumbowl.Slowlyaddthemtothebuttermixture,continuingtomixonlowspeeduntiljustcombined.Scrapedownthesidesofthebowlandmakesuretoreachallthewaytothebottom,wherethedryingredientsmayhavesettled.Mixfor10secondsmore.
3.Usingarubberspatula,removethedoughfromthemixer.Formintoaflatdiskabout3/4inch(2cm)thickonasheetofplasticwrap.Wrapwellandrefrigeratefor30minutestofirmup.
4.Placethedoughonaflouredworksurfaceandrollintoarectangleabout1/8inch(3mm)thick.Cutthedoughwiththeringcutterintoroundsabout1/2inch(1.25cm)largerthanthediameterofthetartringsandplaceonasheetofparchmentpaperonasheetpan.Donotstackthem.Coverthepanwithplasticwrapandreturnthedoughtotherefrigerator.
MAKECHOCOLATECAVIAR
1.Pourthegrapeseedoilintoabowlthatisatleast4inches(10cm)deep.Thisisimportant,asthecaviardropletsmusthaveenoughtimetosetbeforesettlingatthebottomofthebowl.Placethebowlofoilinthefreezerfor3hoursbeforemakingthechocolatecaviar.
2.Soakthegelatinsheetsinabowloficewateruntilsoft,about20minutes.Ifusingpowderedgelatin,sprinkle2teaspoons(6grams)gelatinover2tablespoons(30grams)waterinasmallbowl,stir,andletsit20minutestobloom.
3.Combinethemilkandcreaminasmallpot.Bringtoaboilovermediumheat.Combinethegranulatedsugarandagarandslowlywhiskintotheboilingmilk.Lowertheheattoasimmerandcookfor4minutes.3
4.Removethemilkfromtheheat.Ifusinggelatinsheets,squeezeoutanyexcesswater.Whiskthebloomedgelatinintothehotmilkuntilthegelatinisdissolved.Addthecocoapasteandwhiskuntilsmooth.Addblackfoodcoloringandmixuntilthechocolategeléereachesahomogeneousdarkcolor.Setasidetocooluntilitreachesbetween113°and122°F(45°and50°C).4
5.Transferthechocolategeléetoaplasticbottlewithadriptip.6.Removethegrapeseedoilfromthefreezer.Holdthebottle10inches(26
cm)abovetheoilandusingaback-and-forthmotion,slowlydripthechocolategeléeintothecoldoil.Asthegeléehitstheoil,itwillsinkandsetinamatterofseconds.Sincewaterandoildon’tmix,itwillformperfectlittledroplets.5
7.Whenallthegeléehasbeenpipedintotheoil,drainthechocolatecaviarinasieve.Rinseoffanyextraoilwithcoldrunningwater.Drainwellandtransfertoasmallcontainer.Refrigeratethechocolatecaviaruntilneeded.
THEDAYOFBAKETARTSHELLS
1.Lineasheetpanwithparchmentpaperandplacethetartringsonthepan.Removethechocolatesablécirclesfromtherefrigerator.Oneatatime,
slightlywarmthedoughbypressingitbetweenyourhands.Thedoughneedstobepliablesothatitcanbepressedintothetartringswithoutbreaking.
2.Centerthecircleontopofatartring,thenslowlypushthedoughtowardthebottom,workingyourwayaroundtheinsideoftheringasyougo.Thedoughshouldfillthetartringandleaveanexcessofdougharoundtheedge.Useaparingknifetotrimthisexcess.Returntheshellstotherefrigeratortochillfor5minutes.
3.Whiletheshellsarechilling,placearackinthecenteroftheovenandpreheattheovento375°F(190°C)forconventionalor350°F(175°C)forconvection.
4.Bakethetartshellsonthecenterrackfor8minutes.Rotatethepan180degreesandbakefor8minutesmoreoruntildrythroughout.6
5.Removethetartshellsfromtheovenandunmoldwhilestillwarm.Letcoolcompletely.Reserveinanairtightcontaineruntilyou’rereadytofillthem.
MAKECHANTILLYCREAM
Combine theheavycream, sugar,andvanillabean seeds ina standmixer fittedwith a whisk.Whip until cream triples in volume and holds a medium peak.Coverandrefrigerateuntilneeded.
ASSEMBLE
1.Transfertheganachetoastandmixerfittedwithawhisk.Whiponhighspeeduntilitholdsstiffpeaks.
2.Usingarubberspatula,place2largescoopsofganacheintoapipingbagsothatitisone-thirdfull.Pushtheganachedowntowardthetipofthebag.
3.Fillanotherpipingbagwiththesoftcaramel.Cutanopeningabout1/2inch(1.25cm)widestraightacrossthetipofthebag.Fillthetartshellsone-thirdfullwiththecaramel.
4.Cutanopeningabout1/2inch(1.25cm)widestraightacrossthetipofthepipingbagfilledwithcoffeeganache.Pipetheganacheontopofthecarameluntilitreachesthetoprimoftheshell.Useasmalloffsetspatulatoleveltheganachetotheheightofthetartshell.
5.Foracleanerfinish,placearingcutterthesamediameterasthetartshellontopofashelltoactasamoldforthechocolatecaviar.Placeaspoonfulortwoofthechocolatecaviarontopofthecoffeeganache.Gentlyspreadthechocolatecaviartocovertheganacheinathin,evenlayer.Removethemold.Continuewiththeremainingtarts.
6.RemovetheChantillycreamfromtherefrigerator.Makeaquenelle:Warmasmallspoonwithhotwater.Tapittodry.DragthespoonthroughtheChantillycreamuntilitisfilled.Turnthespoon180degreesandpullupimmediatelytomakeascoopthatisroundedononeendwithanarrowtipontheother.Placethequenelleofcreamontopofthetartimmediately.7
1. If youcan’t findgelatin sheets,usepowderedgelatin.Onegelatin sheet=1 scant teaspoon(2.3 grams) powdered gelatin. For every teaspoon of gelatin, bloom in 1 tablespoon (15 grams)water.
3.Whenusingagar,itisveryimportanttobeaccuratewithmeasurements.Ihighlysuggestusingaprecisiongramscale.
4.Thistemperaturewillensurethatthegeléesetsquicklywhenithitsthegrapeseedoilandisn’ttoorunny.
5.Trydrippingacrosstheentiresurfaceareaoftheoil,whichwillgivethecaviarachancetosetwithoutstickingtogether.
6.Whencheckingtoseeifthechocolateshellsarebaked,relyonthefeelofthedoughratherthanthecolor.
7. If youarenotconfidentwhen it comes tomakingquenelles, simplyplaceadollopof vanillaChantillycreamonthetopofthetartforarusticlook.Oruseapipingbagtopipethecreaminsmallteardrops.
SERVINGINSTRUCTIONSLetthetartsitoutfor5minutestotemperbeforeserving.For special occasions, place a small piece of gold leaf on top of the chocolatecaviar.
STORAGEINSTRUCTIONSThetartshouldbeconsumedwithin24hoursofmaking.Leftovercaramelcanbekeptinaclosedairtightcontainerintherefrigeratorforupto5days.Leftoverwhippedganachecanbekeptinaclosedairtightcontainerin the refrigerator for 1 day. Leftover chocolate caviar can be kept in a closedcontainer in the refrigerator for up to 2 days and is fun to eat—for example,mixedintoicedcoffee.
THEANGRYEGG
Ilovemakingthisrecipe...andbreakingitapartisevenmorefun.
SKILLLEVELAdvancedTIME5hoursYIELD2eggs
SPECIALTOOLS
2eggmolds,5by31/2inches(12.7by9cm)
Wirerack Precisionknife
2conemoldswith1-inch(2.5cm)diameterbase,2inches(5cm)high
Instant-readthermometerTwo3-inch(8cm)roundringmolds
Airbrush(optional)Uncutpipingbagsorparchmentpapercornets
2paletteknives 2acetatesheets,each81/2by11inches(21.7by38cm)
HeatgunColdspray(optional)
INGREDIENTS
Whitechocolate,chopped 14cups 2kilograms
Whitechocolate,chopped 14cups 2kilogramsFat-solubleredfoodcoloring 3tablespoons 30grams
Darkchocolate,chopped 14cups 2kilograms
Red-coloredcocoabutter(optional) asneeded asneeded
Truffles,bonbons,andothertreats asneededtofilltheegg asneededtofilltheegg
Yellowsandingsugar 1/3cup 50grams
MAKEWHITECHOCOLATECOMPONENTS
1.Meltandtemperthewhitechocolate(seepage242).Placeawirerackoverasheetpantocatchexcesschocolatethatdripsfromthemolds.
2.Measureoutthree-quartersofthetemperedwhitechocolateandstirintheredfoodcoloringwitharubberspatulauntilthecolorisuniform.Fillthelargeeggmoldswiththered-coloredchocolateandletthemsitfor30seconds.Invertthemoldsonthewirerackandlettheexcesschocolatedrainout.Theshellshouldbe1/16inch(2mm)thick.Refrigeratetoset.Asthechocolatesetsineachmold,useapaletteknifetoscrapeawayanyexcesschocolatewhilekeepingthemoldinverted.Themoldshouldbeleftwithaverythincoatofredchocolate.
3.Settheremainingwhitechocolateasidetoberetemperedlater.4.Filltheconemoldsallthewaytothetopwithone-quarteroftheuncolored
temperedwhitechocolateforthebeaks.Refrigeratefor3to5minutestoset.
MAKEDARKCHOCOLATECOMPONENTS
1.Drawalarge,thickV-shapefortheeyebrowsonapieceofparchmentpaperwithapencil.Theoutlineshouldbeabout31/2inches(9cm)highand3inches(8cm)wideattheopentopoftheV.Cutouttheshapeandsetaside.
2.Removetheeggmoldsfromtherefrigerator.3.Meltandtemperthedarkchocolate(seepage242).Pourthetempereddark
chocolateintotheeggmoldsontopoftheredchocolate.Letthetemperedchocolatesitinthemoldsfor30seconds.Invertthemoldstolettheexcesschocolatedrainout.Theshellshouldnowbe1/3inch(6mm)thick.Placethemolds(stillinverted)onthewirerack.Whenthechocolatestartstoset,usethepaletteknifetoscrapeawayanyexcesschocolatefromtheedge.Iftheshellisstillalittlethinafterthedarkchocolatesets,addasecondcoat.Refrigerateabout30minutestoset.
4.Meanwhile,lineasheetpanwithanacetatesheet.Placetwo3-inch(8cm)roundringmoldsonthesheetpan.Pourenoughoftheremainingtempereddarkchocolate(whichhasbeencollectedonthesheetpanunderneaththe
wirerack)intotheringmoldstocreateabaseabout1/2inch(1.25cm)thick.Refrigeratetheringmoldstoset.
5.Tocreatetheeyebrows,spreada1/3-inch-thick(6mm)layeroftempereddarkchocolateontoasheetofacetate.Letthechocolatesetuntilitisnolongertacky,4to5minutes.Placethecut-outparchmentV-shapeontopofthesettingchocolate.Usingaprecisionknife,cutalongtheoutlineoftheeyebrow.Transferthechocolateeyebrowtothesheetpanandrefrigeratetoset.Repeatforasecondeyebrow.
6.Settheremainingdarkchocolateasidetoberetemperedlater.
ASSEMBLE
1.Unmoldtheeggsbytappingthecornerofthemoldsontheworksurface.Ifthechocolateistemperedproperly,itshouldpopupimmediately.
2.Bringthepotofwaterbacktoasimmerovermediumheat.Placeaninvertedsheetpanoverthepottowarm.Letthepanheatuntilitisverywarmtothetouch,butnottoohot.Placebothhalvesofanegg,seamsidedown,onthesurfaceofthesheetpanandmovethemaroundabittomelttheedgesslightly.Beforeyousealthechocolateegg,placetruffles,bonbons,orothertreatsinsidethecavity.Pressthehalvesoftheeggtogethertoseal.Holdforafewseconds,thensetaside.Repeatwiththesecondegg.1
3.Placethebaseoftheegg(stillintheringmold)onthesheetpanandmoveitaroundabittomeltitslightly.Youwillcreateaflatbottomforthebase,soitcanstandandsupporttheegg.
4.Letthebasesetintherefrigeratorforafewminutes,leaningonitsside.5.Retempertheremainingdarkchocolateifnecessary,and,usingarubber
spatula,scoopasmallamountintoapipingbagorparchmentpapercornet.Cutanopeningabout3/8inch(1cm)widestraightacrossthetipofthebag.
6.Unmoldabasefromaringmold.Pipeadotoftempereddarkchocolatethesizeofadimeinthecenterofthebase.Removeaneggfromtherefrigerator.Placetheegginthecenterofthebasestandingstraightup.Repeatwiththeothereggandbase.Letthemsetforatleast20minutesatroomtemperatureorsetwiththecoldspray.2
7.Pouryellowsandingsugarontoaplate.Removetheconesofwhitechocolatefromtherefrigeratorandunmoldthem.Withaheatgun,gentlywarmtheoutsideoftheconesandimmediatelyrollintotheyellowsandingsugar.Pipeasmalldotoftempereddarkchocolateontheflatsideofthebeak.Placethebeakonthecenteroftheeggandsetthechocolatewiththe
coldspray,orsimplyholditforafewminutesandthenrefrigeratetohelpitfurtherset.
8.Retempertheremainingwhiteanddarkchocolateandplaceintoseparatecornets.
9.Tocreatetheeyes,pipeadotoftemperedwhitechocolatealittlebitbiggerthanthesizeofaquarteronasheetofacetate.Immediatelypipeadotoftempereddarkchocolateinthecenterforthepupil.Repeatforthethreeremainingeyes.Letthemsetforafewminutesandplaceintherefrigeratorifnecessary.Pipeasmalldotoftempereddarkchocolateinthecenterbehindeacheye.Placetheeyesjustabovethebeakandsetwiththecoldsprayorholdwithyourfingerforafewminutes.
10.Pipeasmalldotoftempereddarkchocolateinthecenterofaneyebrow.Placejustabovetheeyesandsetwiththecoldspray,orholdwithyourfingerforafewmomentsuntilset.Repeatwiththeothereggandeyebrow.
1.Forevenreddereggs,fillanairbrushwithmeltedredcocoabutterandlightlyspraytheoutsideoftheeggs.Refrigeratetheeggsagain.
2.Whilethecoldsprayisnotnecessary,itdoesspeeduptheangryegg’sdryingprocess.Simplyspraythebaseandeggonceadhered.
SERVING INSTRUCTIONSThe tradition is tohide theeggatEaster. Just rememberthattherealfunafteryoufinditistobreakitopenandeatit!
STORAGE INSTRUCTIONSCanbe kept in a closed airtight container in a cool dryplace,awayfromdirectlight,forupto1week.
DOMINIQUE’SKOUIGNAMANNS(DKA)
Ilovemakingthisrecipe...becauseitcanonlybeeatenfreshandwillchangeyourlifewhenyoudo.
SKILLLEVELAdvancedTIME3hours
YIELD10to12DKAs
SPECIALTOOLS
StandmixerwithdoughhookattachmentRulerLargeoffsetspatulaSiliconebakingmat10to12roundringmolds,23/4inch(7cm)diameterStainlesssteeltongs
INGREDIENTS
Breadflour 3cups+2tablespoons 472grams
Koshersalt 2tablespoons 12grams
Water,verycold 11/3cups+21/2tablespoons
313grams
Unsaltedbutter(84%butterfat),softened 26tablespoons 364grams
Instantyeast(preferablySAFGoldLabel)1 11/2teaspoons 4gramsNonstickcookingspray asneeded asneeded
All-purposeflour(fordusting) asneeded asneeded
Granulatedsugar about13/4cups about360grams
MAKEDOUGH
1.Combinethebreadflour,salt,water,1tablespoon(14grams)ofthebutter,andtheyeastinastandmixerfittedwithadoughhook.Mixonlowspeedfor2minutestocombine.Increasethespeedtomedium-highandbeatfor10minutes.Whenfinished,thedoughwillbesmoothandslightlytackyandwillhavefullglutendevelopment.Testbystretchingit—thedoughwillhavesomeelasticity.
2.Lightlygreaseamediumbowlwithnonstickcookingspray.Transferthedoughtothebowl.Coverlooselywithplasticwrapandproofatroomtemperatureuntildoubledinsize,about1hour.
3.Punchdownthedoughbyfoldingtheedgesintothecenter,releasingasmuchofthegasaspossible,andturnitoutontoalargesheetofplasticwrap.Usingyourpalms,pressittoforma10-inch(25cm)square.Wrapittightlyintheplasticwrapandplaceinthefreezerfor15minutes.
4.Flipthedoughandreturnittothefreezerforanother15minutessothatitchillsevenly.
MAKEBUTTERBLOCK
1.Whilethedoughischilling,drawa7-inch(18cm)squareonapieceofparchmentpaperwithapencil.Fliptheparchmentoversothatthebutterwon’tcomeincontactwiththepencilmarks.Placetheremaining25tablespoons(350grams)butterinthecenterofthesquareandspreaditevenlywithanoffsetspatulatofillthesquare.Refrigeratethebutteruntilfirmbutstillpliable,about20minutes.2
2.Removethebutterfromtherefrigerator.Itshouldstillbesoftenoughtobendslightlywithoutcracking.Ifitistoofirm,lightlybeatitwitharollingpinonalightlyflouredworksurfaceuntilitbecomespliable.Makesuretopressthebutterbacktoitsoriginal7-inch(18cm)squareafterworkingit.
3.Removethedoughfromthefreezer;makesureitisverycoldthroughout.Placethedoughonalightlyflouredworksurface.Arrangethebutterblock
inthecenterofthedoughsoitlookslikeadiamondinthecenterofthesquare(rotated45degrees,withthecornersofthebutterfacingthecenterofthedoughsides).Pullthecornersofthedoughupandovertothecenterofthebutterblock.Pinchtheseamsofthedoughtogethertosealthebutterinside.Youshouldhaveasquareslightlylargerthanthebutterblock.
4.Witharollingpin,usingsteady,evenpressure,rollthedoughoutfromthecentersothatittriplesinlength.Thiswilltakeseveralpasses.Useextraflourtodusttheworksurfacetoensurethatnothingsticks.Whenfinished,youshouldhavearectangleabout24by10inches(60by25cm)and1/3inch(6mm)thick.3
MAKEFIRSTTHREEFOLDS
1.Placethedoughsothelongersidesrunlefttoright.Fromtherightsidefoldone-thirdofthedoughontoitself,keepingtheedgeslinedupwitheachother.Fromtheleftsidefoldtheremainingone-thirdofdoughontopofthesidethathasalreadybeenfolded.Lineupalltheedgessothatyouareleftwithanevenrectangle.Thedoughisbeingfoldedasifitwereapieceofpapergoingintoanenvelope;thisiscalleda“letterfold.”Donotrestthedoughandimmediatelymoveontothenextfold.4
2.Startingwiththeseamofthedoughontheright,rolloutthedough,verticallyfromtoptobottom,toarectangleabout24by10inches(60by25cm)and1/3inch(6mm)thick.Repeattheletterfold.
3.Immediatelyrolloutthedoughagaintoarectangleabout24by10inches(60by25cm)and1/3inch(6mm)thickexactlyasinstep2.Repeattheletterfold.Wrapthedoughinplasticwrapandrefrigeratefor30to40minutestorest.
MAKEFOURTHFOLD
Sprinklesugarinathin,evenlayerontheworksurface(asifyouwereflouringthe work surface, but using sugar instead). Lay out the dough on the sugar.Startingwiththeseamofthedoughontheright,rolloutthedoughoncemore,verticallyfromtoptobottom,toarectangleabout24by10inches(60by25cm)and 1/3 inch (6 mm) thick. Sprinkle a thin, even layer of sugar on the top.Repeattheletterfold.5
ROLL,SHAPE,ANDBAKE
1.Sprinkleanotherthin,evenlayerofsugarontheworksurface.Placethedoughonthesugar.Startingwiththeseamontheright,rolloutthedough
onefinaltimetoarectangleabout24by10inches(60by25cm)and1/3inch(6mm)thick.Sprinkleanotherthinlayerofsugarontop.
2.Usingachef’sknife,cutthedoughinto4-inch(10cm)squares.Eachsquareshouldweighabout31/2ounces(100grams).Sprinklealittlebitmoresugarontheworksurface.Foldinthecornersofeachsquaretomeetatthecenter,pushingthecenterdownfirmly.Repeatwiththenewcornersthatwereformed,againpushingdownfirmlyinthecenter.
3.Lineahalfsheetpanwithasiliconebakingmat.Spraylightlywithnonsticksprayandsprinklewithenoughgranulatedsugartojustlightlycoatit.Placetheringmolds4inches(10cm)apartonthepan.
4.Placeasquareofdoughinthecenterofeachring.Thedoughwillhangovertheedgesofthemold.FoldtheexcessdoughintothecenteroftheDKAandpressdownfirmly.Proofatroomtemperature,15to20minutes.
5.WhiletheDKAsareproofing,placearackinthecenteroftheovenandpreheattheovento365°F(185°C)forconventionalor340°F(170°C)forconvection.
6.BaketheDKAsonthecenterrackfor15minutes.Rotatethepan180degreesandbakefor15minutesmore.TheDKAsarefinishedwhentheyturngoldenbrownandhaveaboutdoubledinsize.
7.Removefromtheoven.Usingapairofstainless-steeltongs,unmoldtheDKAsontoasheetpanwhilestillhot:GrabthemetalringswiththetongsandfliptheDKAsoversotheflatsideisup.Removetherings.LettheDKAscoolcompletely,stillinverted.
1.Instantyeastisoftenusedfordoughswithhighersugarcontent,becausethisyeastneedslesswatertoreactandsugartendstopullwaterfromdough.Youcansubstitutethesamequantityofactivedryyeast,butmaygetadenserfinalproduct.
2. When making the DKA, speed is very important. Work the dough as quickly as possible,otherwise it will soften and the butter will push out of the seams. This results in a dense anddoughyproduct.
3. Keeping the dough’s rectangular shape is very important at this point to ensure even layersthroughouttheprocess.Youwillneedalargeareatorolloutthedough.
4. When making the DKA, speed is very important. Work the dough as quickly as possible,otherwise it will soften and the butter will push out of the seams. This results in a dense anddoughyproduct.
5.Workquicklywhenyouaddthesugar,asitwillstarttodrawoutmoisturefromthedoughandmakethesurfacewet.
SERVING INSTRUCTIONSEnjoy at room temperature. If you are looking formoreadventure,sliceaDKAinhalfhorizontallyandaddascoopoficecreamtomakeanicecreamsandwich.
STORAGEINSTRUCTIONSDKAsshouldbeconsumedwithin6hoursofbaking.
MAGICSOUFFLÉ
Ilovemakingthisrecipe...fortherealpastrybuffswhoappreciatethedelicatenatureofitsconstruction.
SKILLLEVELAdvancedTIME1hour30minutesonedaybefore;1hourthedayofYIELD6soufflés
TIMELINE
ONEDAYBEFOREMakeganache,dough,andsouffléTHEDAYOFAssemble,proof,andbake
SPECIALTOOLS
Instant-readthermometerStandmixerwithdoughhookandwhiskattachmentsSiphonwithcarboncharger
6rectangularringmolds21/2by13/4by13/4inches(6.5by4.5by4.5cm)
INGREDIENTSCHOCOLATEGANACHE
CHOCOLATEGANACHEHeavycream 1/3cup+3tablespoons 100grams
Darkchocolate(70%cocoacontent),finelychopped
1/2cup 90grams
Unsaltedbutter(84%butterfat) 2tablespoons+1teaspoon 30grams
ORANGEBLOSSOMBRIOCHEBreadflour 2cups 280gramsKoshersalt 1tablespoon 6grams
Granulatedsugar 1/3cup 51grams
Instantyeast(preferablySAFGoldLabel)1 2teaspoons 5grams
Wholeeggs(large) 4each 4each(200grams)
Wholemilk 1tablespoon 15gramsUnsaltedbutter(84%butterfat),cold,cutinsmalldice
13tablespoons 183grams
Orangeoil 1/2teaspoon 1gram
Gratedorangezest 1orange 1orange
Orangeblossomwater 1teaspoon 5grams
Nonstickcookingspray asneeded asneededAll-purposeflour(fordusting) asneeded asneeded
CHOCOLATESOUFFLÉDarkchocolate(70%cocoacontent),finelychopped
1/2cup 98grams
Unsaltedbutter(84%butterfat) 61/2tablespoons 91grams
Granulatedsugar 1/2cup+3tablespoons 140grams
All-purposeflour 1/3cup 30gramsBakingpowder 21/2tablespoons 10grams
Wholeeggs(large) 3each 3each(150grams)
ONEDAYBEFOREMAKEGANACHE
1.Bringthecreamtoaboilinamediumpotovermediumheat.Removefromtheheat.
2.Placethechocolateinasmallheatproofbowlandpourthehotcreamoverit.Letstandfor30seconds.
3.Whiskthechocolateandhotcreamuntilsmooth.Setasidetocool.Whentheganachereaches122°F(50°C),whiskinthebutteruntilfullyblended.2
4.Coverwithplasticwrappresseddirectlyontothesurfaceoftheganache,topreventaskinfromforming.Refrigeratefor2hourstoset.
MAKEDOUGH
1.Combinethebreadflour,salt,sugar,yeast,andeggsinastandmixerfittedwithadoughhook.Mixonlowspeeduntilthedoughformsaball.Slowlypourinthemilkandmixonlowuntilcombined.Increasethespeedtomedium-highfor6to8minutesmoretodevelopthegluten,whichwillhelpthedoughholditsstructure.Itshouldpulloffthesidesofthebowlcleanlywhenit’sready.Checkthedoughusingthe“windowpanetest”(seepage151).
2.Whenthedoughhasreachedfullglutendevelopment,addthebutter,keepingthemixeronmedium-highspeed.Mixjustuntilthebutterisincorporated.Addtheorangeoil,orangezest,andorangeblossomwaterandmixuntilfullyincorporated.Thefinisheddoughshouldbesmooth,shiny,andsticky.
3.Lightlygreaseamediumbowlwithnonstickcookingspray.Transferthedoughtothebowl.Coverwithplasticwrappresseddirectlyontothesurfaceofthedough,topreventaskinfromforming.Proofthedoughatroomtemperature(nowarmerthan75°F/24°C)untildoubledinsize,about1hour30minutes.
4.Removetheplasticwrapandpunchdownthedoughbyfoldingtheedgesintothecenter,releasingasmuchofthegasaspossible.Coverthedoughagainwithplasticwrappresseddirectlyonthesurface.Refrigerateovernighttorelaxthegluten.
MAKESOUFFLÉ
1.Meltthechocolateandbutterinasmallbowlonhighpowerin20-secondintervalsinthemicrowave,stirringwithaheatproofspatulabetweenintervals,untilsmooth.
2.Combinethegranulatedsugar,all-purposeflour,bakingpowder,andeggsinastandmixerfittedwithawhisk.Mixonlowspeedforafewminutesuntiljustincorporated.
3.Withthemixeronlowspeed,streaminthemeltedchocolateandbutter.Witharubberspatula,scrapedownthesidesofthebowl.Whiponhighspeedfor3minutes,untilthebatterissmooth.Coverwithplasticwrappresseddirectlyagainstthesurfaceofthebatterandrefrigeratefor1hour.
4.Whilethesoufflébatterischilling,placearackinthecenteroftheovenandpreheattheovento375°F(190°C)forconventionalor350°F(175°C)forconvection.
5.Usingarubberspatula,place2largescoopsofsoufflébatterinasiphon,sothatitishalffull.
6.Lineasheetpanwithparchmentpaperandarrangetherectangularringmoldsabout2inches(5cm)apart.Greasetheinsidesofthemoldswithnonstickspray.Pipesoufflébatterintothemoldsuntiltheyareabouthalfwayfull.Addadollopofchocolateganachewithaspoontothecenterofeachmold.Coverwithsoufflébattertofill.Bakefor4minutes.Rotatethepan180degreesandbakefor4minutesmore.
7.Whenfullybaked,placethesoufflés,stillinthemolds,inthefreezertosetovernight.
THEDAYOFASSEMBLEANDPROOF
1.Pullone-thirdofthedoughfromtherefrigerator.Onalightlyflouredsurface,usearollingpintorolloutthedoughintoarectanglemeasuring20by10inches(50by25cm).Placeonasheetpanlinedwithparchmentpaperandrefrigerate.Letthedoughrestintherefrigeratorfor30minutestorelaxthegluten.
2.Usingachef’sknife,cutthebriochedoughinto6by3–inch(15by8cm)strips.Returnthecutdoughtotherefrigeratoruntilneeded.
3.Runathin-bladedknifearoundtheinsideoftheringmoldsandliftoffthemoldtounmoldthechocolatesoufflés.Placeasouffléinthecenterofarectangleofbriocheandwrapthebriochearoundthesouffléastightlyaspossible.Foldandpinchtheendsofthebriochetogethertocoverthetopandbottomofthesoufflé.Cutoffanyexcessdoughwithaparingknife.Repeatuntilalltheremainingsoufflésarewrapped.3
4.Washanddrytheringmolds.Lightlygreasetheinsideofthemoldswithnonstickspray.Placeeachwrappedsouffléinsideofamold(itwillbeaverytightfit).Transferthemoldstoasheetpanlinedwithparchmentpaper.
5.Lightlylayapieceofplasticwrapoverthemagicsoufflés.Proofthematroomtemperatureuntiltheyreachthetopofthemold,about2hours.
6.Returnthemagicsouffléstothefreezertochillfor1hour.
BAKE
1.Placearackinthecenteroftheovenandpreheattheovento400°F(205°C)forconventionalor375°F(190°C)forconvection.
2.Removetheplasticwrapandlayapieceofparchmentpaperontopofthesoufflés,followedbyasecondsheetpan.Thishelpscompressthemwhiletheybake.Ifyoudonothaveasecondsheetpan,substitutesomethingofequalweight—justmakesuretheobjecthasaflatbottom.
3.Bakethesoufflésonthecenterrackfor5minutes.Rotatethepan180degreesandbakefor5minutesmoreoruntiltheyaregoldenbrown.4Removefromtheovenandunmoldimmediately.Theyareunlikelytostick.
4.Letcoolfor5minutesbeforeserving.
1.Ifyouaddthebutterwhile theganache isstillhot, thebutterwillmeltandtheganachewillhaveagrainyconsistencywhenitsets.
2.Thisrecipeyieldsmorebriochethanneeded.Baketheextradoughandenjoyabriocherollforbreakfast.
3.Whencoveringthesouffléwiththebriochedough,justthinkofitasapresentyou’rewrapping.Youdon’twantpeopletoseewhatisinside,somakesurethesouffléiscompletelycovered.
4. If you’re using a conventional oven, you will have to turn the soufflés over after the first 5minutesso that thebottom is facingup.Withconventionalovens theheatcomesonly from thebottom,whichmeansthebottomwillbakemuchmorequicklythanthetop.
SERVINGINSTRUCTIONSServewithin15minutesofbakingtoensurethecenterisstillmolten.
STORAGE INSTRUCTIONS This does not store well, unfortunately, as the moltencenterwilldryoutovertime.Theleftoverdoughcanbebakedforbreakfast.
THEAT-HOMECRONUT™PASTRY
Ilovemakingthisrecipe...because—whatcanIsay?—itchangedtheworld.Thisisaversiondesignedforthehomecook.
SKILLLEVELAdvanced
TIME1hourtwodaysbefore;1houronedaybefore;2hoursthedayofYIELD12At-HomeCronut™pastries
TIMELINE
TWO DAYS BEFOREMake ganache,At-HomeCronut™pastry dough, andbutterblockONEDAYBEFORELaminateTHEDAYOFCutandfrydough;makeglazeandflavoredsugar;assemble
SPECIALTOOLS
StandmixerwithdoughhookandwhiskattachmentsRulerLargeoffsetspatula31/2-inch(9cm)ringcutter1inch(2.5cm)ringcutterDeep-fryingthermometer
Deep-fryingthermometer2uncutpipingbagsWilton#230BismarckmetaltiporotherBismarcktubeAteco#803plaintip(5/16-inch/0.8cmdiameter)
INGREDIENTS
Ganacheofyourchoice(pages205to207) 1batch 1batch
Flavoredsugarofyourchoice (page208)
Glazeofyourchoice(page208)
AT-HOMECRONUT™PASTRYDOUGHBreadflour 33/4cups,plusmoreas
neededfordusting525grams,plusmoreasneededfordusting
Koshersalt 1tablespoon+2teaspoons 6grams
Granulatedsugar 1/4cup+1tablespoon 64gramsInstantyeast(preferablySAFGoldLabel)1 1tablespoon+11/2
teaspoons11grams
Water,cold 1cup+2tablespoons 250grams
Eggwhite(large) 1each 1each(30grams)
Unsaltedbutter(84%butterfat),softened 8tablespoons 112grams
Heavycream 1tablespoon 15gramsNonstickcookingspray asneeded asneeded
BUTTERBLOCKUnsaltedbutter(84%butterfat),softened 18tablespoons 251grams
Grapeseedoil asneeded asneeded
Glazeofyourchoice(page208) asneeded asneeded
Decoratingsugarofyourchoice(page208) asneeded asneeded
TWODAYSBEFOREMAKEGANACHE
Prepare one of the ganache recipes on pages 205 to 207 and refrigerate untilneeded.
MAKEAT-HOMECRONUT™PASTRYDOUGH
1.Combinethebreadflour,salt,sugar,yeast,water,eggwhites,butter,andcreaminastandmixerfittedwithadoughhook.Mixuntiljustcombined,
about3minutes.Whenfinishedthedoughwillberoughandhaveverylittleglutendevelopment.
2.Lightlygreaseamediumbowlwithnonstickcookingspray.Transferthedoughtothebowl.Coverwithplasticwrappresseddirectlyonthesurfaceofthedough,topreventaskinfromforming.Proofthedoughinawarmspotuntildoubledinsize,2to3hours.
3.Removetheplasticwrapandpunchdownthedoughbyfoldingtheedgesintothecenter,releasingasmuchofthegasaspossible.Onapieceofparchmentpaper,shapeintoa10-inch(25cm)square.Transfertoasheetpan,stillontheparchmentpaper,andcoverwithplasticwrap.Refrigerateovernight.
MAKEBUTTERBLOCK
Drawa7-inch(18cm)squareonapieceofparchmentpaperwithapencil.Flipthe parchment over so that the butter won’t come in contact with the pencilmarks.Placethebutter inthecenterofthesquareandspreaditevenlywithanoffsetspatulatofillthesquare.Refrigerateovernight.
ONEDAYBEFORELAMINATE
1.Removethebutterfromtherefrigerator.Itshouldstillbesoftenoughtobendslightlywithoutcracking.Ifitisstilltoofirm,lightlybeatitwitharollingpinonalightlyflouredworksurfaceuntilitbecomespliable.Makesuretopressthebutterbacktoitsoriginal7-inch(18cm)squareafterworkingit.
2.Removethedoughfromtherefrigerator,makingsureitisverycoldthroughout.Placethedoughonaflouredworksurface.Usingtherollingpin,rolloutthedoughtoa10-inch(25.5cm)squareabout1inch(2.5cm)thick.Arrangethebutterblockinthecenterofthedoughsoitlookslikeadiamondinthecenterofthesquare(rotated45degrees,withthecornersofthebutterblockfacingthecenterofthedoughsides).Pullthecornersofthedoughupandovertothecenterofthebutterblock.Pinchtheseamsofdoughtogethertosealthebutterinside.Youshouldhaveasquareslightlylargerthanthebutterblock.
3.Verylightlydusttheworksurfacewithflourtoensurethedoughdoesn’tstick.Witharollingpin,usingsteady,evenpressure,rolloutthedoughfromthecenter.Whenfinished,youshouldhavea20-inch(50cm)squareabout1/4inch(6mm)thick.3
4.Foldthedoughinhalfhorizontally,makingsuretolineuptheedgessoyouareleftwitharectangle.Thenfoldthedoughvertically.Youshouldhavea10-inch(25.5cm)squareofdoughwith4layers.Wraptightlyinplasticwrapandrefrigeratefor1hour.
5.Repeatsteps3and4.Covertightlywithplasticwrapandrefrigerateovernight.
THEDAYOFCUTDOUGH
1.Onalightlyflouredworksurface,rolloutthedoughtoa15-inch(40cm)squareabout1/2inch(1.3cm)thick.Transferthedoughtoahalfsheetpan,coverwithplasticwrap,andrefrigeratefor1hourtorelax.
2.Usinga31/2-inch(9cm)ringcutter,cut12rounds.Cutoutthecenterofeachroundwitha1-inch(2.5cm)ringcuttertocreatethedoughnutshape.
3.Lineasheetpanwithparchmentpaperandlightlydusttheparchmentwithflour.PlacetheAt-HomeCronut™pastriesonthepan,spacingthemabout3inches(8cm)apart.Lightlysprayapieceofplasticwrapwithnonsticksprayandlayitontopofthepastries.Proofinawarmspotuntiltripledinsize,about2hours.±
FRYDOUGH
1.Heatthegrapeseedoilinalargepotuntilitreaches350°F(175°C).Useadeep-fryingthermometertoverifythattheoilisattherighttemperature.4Lineaplatterwithseverallayersofpapertowelsfordrainingthepastries.
2.Gentlyplace3or4ofthematatimeintothehotoil.Fryforabout90secondsoneachside,flippingonce,untilgoldenbrown.Removefromtheoilwithaslottedspoonanddrainonthepapertowels.
3.Checkthattheoilisattherighttemperature.Ifnot,letitheatupagainbeforefryingthenextbatch.Continueuntilallofthemarefried.
4.Letcoolcompletelybeforefilling.
MAKEGLAZE
Preparetheglazeonpage208thatcorrespondstoyourchoiceofganache.
MAKEFLAVOREDSUGAR
Prepare the decorating sugar on page 208 that corresponds to your choice ofganache.
ASSEMBLE
1.Transfertheganachetoastandmixerfittedwithawhisk.Whiponhighspeeduntiltheganacheholdsastiffpeak.(IfusingtheChampagne-chocolateganache,simplywhiskituntilsmooth.Itwillbequitethickalready.)2.CutthetipofapipingbagtosnuglyfittheBismarcktip.Usingarubberspatula,place2largescoopsofganacheinapipingbagsothatitisone-thirdfull.Pushtheganachedowntowardthetipofthebag.
3.Placethedecoratingsugarthatcorrespondstoyourchoiceofganacheandglazeinabowl.
4.ArrangeeachAt-HomeCronutTMpastrysothattheflattersideisfacingup.Injecttheganachethroughthetopofthepastryinfourdifferentspots,evenlyspaced.Asyoupipetheganache,youshouldfeelthepastrygettingheavierinyourhand.
5.Placethepastryonitsside.Rollinthecorrespondingsugar,coatingtheoutsideedges.
6.Iftheglazehascooled,microwaveitforafewsecondstowarmuntilsoft.Cutthetipofapipingbagtosnuglyfita#803plaintip.Usingarubberspatula,transfertheglazetothebag.Pushtheglazedowntowardthetipofthebag.
7.PipearingofglazearoundthetopofeachAt-HomeCronutpastry,makingsuretocoveralltheholescreatedfromthefilling.Keepinmindthattheglazewillcontinuetospreadslightlyasitcools.Lettheglazesetforabout15minutesbeforeserving.
1.Instantyeastisoftenusedfordoughswithhighersugarcontent,becausethisyeastneedslesswatertoreactandsugartendstopullwaterfromdough.Youcansubstitutethesamequantityofactivedryyeast,butmaygetadenserfinalproduct.
2.Thisisnotthetypicallaminationtechniqueandisuniquetothisrecipe.When rolling out dough, you want to use as little flour as possible. The more flour you
incorporate into the dough, the tougher it will be to roll out, and when you fry the At-HomeCronut™pastriestheywillflakeapart.
3.It’sbesttoproofAt-HomeCronutpastriesinawarm,humidplace.Butiftheproofingareaistoo warm, the butter will melt, so do not place the pastries on top of the oven or near anotherdirectsourceofheat.
4.Thetemperatureoftheoil isveryimportanttothefryingprocess.If it istoolow,thepastrieswillbegreasy;toohigh,theinsidewillbeundercookedwhiletheoutsideisburnt.
SERVING INSTRUCTIONSBecause theAt-HomeCronut™pastry is cream-filled, itmustbeservedatroomtemperature.
STORAGEINSTRUCTIONSConsumewithin8hoursoffrying.Leftoverganachecanbe stored in a closed airtight container in the refrigerator for 2 days. Leftoverflavoredsugarcankeepinaclosedairtightcontainerforweeksandcanbeusedtomaceratefruitsorsweetendrinks.
GANACHES
VANILLAROSEGANACHE
YIELDGanachefor12At-HomeCronut™pastries
INGREDIENTS
Gelatinsheet(160bloom)1 1each 1eachHeavycream 13/4cups 406grams
Vanillabean(preferablyTahitian),1each1each splitlengthwise,seedsscraped
Whitechocolate,finelychopped 1/2cup 90grams
Rosewater 4tablespoons 50grams
1.Soakthegelatinsheetinabowloficewateruntilsoft,about20minutes.Ifusingpowderedgelatin,sprinkle1teaspoon(2.3grams)gelatinover1tablespoon(15grams)waterinasmallbowl,stir,andletsit20minutestobloom.
2.Combinetheheavycreamandvanillabeanseedsinasmallpotandbringtoaboilovermediumheat.Removefromtheheat.
3.Ifusingagelatinsheet,squeezeoutanyexcesswater.Whiskthebloomedgelatinintothecreamuntilthegelatinisdissolved.
4.Placethewhitechocolateinasmallheatproofbowl.Pourthehotcreamoverthechocolateandletstandfor30seconds.
5.Whiskthewhitechocolateandhotcreamuntilsmooth.Addtherosewaterandwhiskuntilfullyblended.Coverwithplasticwrappresseddirectlyontothesurfaceoftheganache,topreventaskinfromforming.Refrigerateovernighttoset.
1. If youcan’t findgelatin sheets,usepowderedgelatin.Onegelatin sheet=1 scant teaspoon(2.3 grams) powdered gelatin. For every teaspoon of gelatin, bloom in 1 tablespoon (15 grams)water.
WHIPPEDLEMONGANACHE
YIELDGanachefor12At-HomeCronut™pastries
INGREDIENTS
Gelatinsheet(160bloom)1 2each 2eachHeavycream 3/4cup+2tablespoons 188grams
Gratedlemonzest 1lemon 1lemon
Granulatedsugar 1/4cup 51grams
Whitechocolate,finelychopped 3/4cup 117gramsLemonjuice 1/2cup+1tablespoon 141grams
1.Soakthegelatinsheetsinabowloficewateruntilsoft,about20minutes.Ifusingpowderedgelatin,sprinkle2teaspoons(5grams)gelatinover2tablespoons(30grams)waterinasmallbowl,stir,andletsit20minutestobloom.
2.Combinethecream,lemonzest,andsugarinasmallpotandbringtoaboilovermediumheat.Removefromtheheat.
3.Ifusinggelatinsheets,squeezeoutanyexcesswater.Whiskthebloomedgelatinintothecreamuntilthegelatinisdissolved.
4.Placethewhitechocolateinasmallheatproofbowl.Pourthehotcreamoverthechocolateandletstandfor30seconds.
5.Whiskthewhitechocolateandhotcreamuntilsmooth.Lettheganachecooltoroomtemperature.
6.Whiskinthelemonjuice.Coverwithplasticwrappresseddirectlyontothesurfaceoftheganache,topreventaskinfromforming.Refrigerateovernighttoset.
1. If youcan’t findgelatin sheets,usepowderedgelatin.Onegelatin sheet=1 scant teaspoon(2.3 grams) powdered gelatin. For every teaspoon of gelatin, bloom in 1 tablespoon (15 grams)water.
CHAMPAGNE-CHOCOLATEGANACHE
YIELDGanachefor12At-HomeCronut™pastries
INGREDIENTS
Water 2tablespoons 26gramsChampagne 1/4cup+2tablespoons 102grams
Unsweetenedcocoapowder 11/2tablespoons 9grams
Heavycream 1/2cup 115grams
Eggyolks(large) 3each 3each(60grams)Granulatedsugar 3tablespoons 38grams
Darkchocolate(66%cocoacontent),finelychopped
1cup+1tablespoon 165grams
1.Combinethewater,2tablespoons(26grams)oftheChampagne,andthecocoapowderinasmallbowl.Mixtoasmoothpaste.
2.Combinethecreamandtheremaining1/4cup(76grams)Champagneinasmallpotandbringtoaboilovermediumheat.Removefromtheheat.
3.Whisktheeggyolksandgranulatedsugartogetherinasmallbowl.Streamone-thirdofthehotcreammixtureintotheeggyolks,whiskingconstantlyuntilfullyblended,totemperthem.Whiskthetemperedyolksintotheremaininghotcream.Returnthepottomediumheat.
4.Keepwhisking!Continuetocookthecustardovermediumheatuntilitreaches185°F(85°C).Thecustardwillturnpaleyellowandthickensothatitcoatsthebackofaspoon.Removefromtheheatandwhiskinthecocoapowderpasteuntilfullyincorporated.
5.Placethechocolateinamediumheatproofbowl.Strainthecustardthroughasmallsieveoverthechocolate.Letstandfor30seconds.
6.Whiskthechocolateandcustarduntilsmooth.Whenfinished,theganachewillhavetheconsistencyofyogurt.Reserve1/4cup(50grams)fortheglaze.Coverwithplasticwrappresseddirectlyontothesurfaceoftheganache,topreventaskinfromforming.Refrigerateovernighttoset.
FLAVOREDSUGARS
YIELDAbout1cup(200grams)each
INGREDIENTSVANILLASUGARGranulatedsugar 1cup 205gramsVanillabean(preferablyTahitian),splitlengthwise,seedsscraped
1each 1each
MAPLESUGARGranulatedmaplesugar 1cup 200grams
Gratedlemonzest 1lemon 1lemon
ORANGESUGARGranulatedsugar 1cup 205gramsGratedorangezest 1orange 1orange
Combinethesugaranditsflavoringinasmallbowl.Reserveuntilneeded.
GLAZES
YIELDAbout1/2cup(200grams)each
INGREDIENTSROSEGLAZEGlazingfondant1 1/2cup 200gramsRosewater 2tablespoons 30grams
LEMONGLAZEGlazingfondant1 1/2cup 200grams
Gratedlemonzest 1lemon 1lemon
CHAMPAGNE-CHOCOLATEGLAZEGlazingfondant1 1/2cup 200gramsChampagne-chocolateganache(page207) 1/4cup 50grams
Warm the fondant in a small bowl in the microwave in 10-second intervals,stirringbetweenintervals.Whenthefondantisslightlywarm,about20seconds,addthecorrespondingflavorandstiruntilfullyblended.
1.Glazingfondantisalsoknownas“fondanticing”or“pastryfondant.”Itissimilartoroyalicingbutremainsshinywhenitsets.
IBÉRICOANDMAHÓNCROISSANT
Ilovemakingthisrecipe...astheperfectbrunchitemandanamazingafternoonsnack.
SKILLLEVELAdvancedTIME1hour30minutestwodaysbefore;2hoursonedaybefore;1hourthedayofYIELD12to15croissants
TIMELINE
TWO DAYS BEFORE Make dough; prepare pork fat and dried ham; make butterblockONEDAYBEFOREMakethreefolds;roll,fill,andshapeTHEDAYOFBake
SPECIALTOOLS
Standmixerwithdoughhookattachment(andpaddleattachment,optional)Ruler
LargeoffsetspatulaPastrybrush
INGREDIENTSCROISSANTDOUGHBreadflour 33/4cups,plusmoreas
neededfordusting525grams,plusmoreasneededfordusting
Koshersalt 1tablespoon+1teaspoon 10grams
Granulatedsugar 1/3cup+1tablespoon 80grams
Instantyeast(preferablySAFGoldLabel)1 1tablespoon+2teaspoons 13gramsWater 1cup 250grams
Unsaltedbutter(84%butterfat),softened 8tablespoons 112grams
Nonstickcookingspray asneeded asneeded
Ibéricoham,verythinlysliced 24to30slices 24to30slices
BUTTERBLOCKUnsaltedbutter(84%butterfat),softened 16tablespoons 224gramsRenderedporkfat(step1,below) 1tablespoon 13grams
Mahóncheese,sliced 12to15slices 12to15slices
Mahóncheese,grated 1/3cup,looselypacked 30grams
Eggwash(2eggs,1pinchsalt,andadashofmilk,beatentogether)
asneeded asneeded
TWODAYSBEFOREMAKEDOUGH
1.Combinethebreadflour,salt,sugar,yeast,water,andbutterinastandmixerfittedwithadoughhook.Mixonlowspeedabout3minutes,untiljustcombined.Whenfinished,thedoughwillberoughandhaveverylittleglutendevelopment.
2.Lightlygreaseamediumbowlwithnonstickspray.Transferthedoughintothebowlandcoverwithplasticwrappresseddirectlyonthedough,topreventaskinfromforming.Proofthedoughinawarmspotuntildoubledinsize,1hour30minutesto2hours.
3.Removetheplasticwrapandpunchdownthedoughbyfoldingtheedgesintothecenter,releasingasmuchofthegasaspossible.Onapieceofparchmentpaper,shapethedoughintoa10-inch(25cm)square.Placethedough,stillontheparchmentpaper,onasheetpanandcoverwithplasticwrap.Refrigerateovernight.
PREPAREPORKFATANDDRIEDHAM
1.TrimthefatfromtheedgesofallslicesofIbéricoham.Cookthetrimmingsinasmallpotoverlowheatuntilthefathasliquefied.Strainthroughasmall
sieveintoasmallbowl.Discardanysolidsleftinthesieve.Coverthebowloffatwithplasticwrapandrefrigerateforabout30minutes,untilsolid.
2.Whilethefatischilling,placearackinthecenteroftheovenandpreheattheovento350°F(175°C)forconventionalor325°F(160°C)forconvection.Lineasheetpanwithparchmentpaper.Lineaplatterwithpapertowels.
3.Set15piecesofhamaside.Thesewillbeusedtorollinsidethecroissants.Layouttheremainingslicesofhamonthelinedpan.Bakeonthecenterrackforabout10minutes.Rotatethepan180degreesandbakefor10minutesmoreoruntiltheslicesarecrispythroughout.Drainandcoolthehamslicesonthepapertowels.Whencompletelycooled,chopintosmallbits.Youshouldhaveabout1tablespoon(60grams),looselypacked.
MAKEBUTTERBLOCK
1.Combinethebutter,therenderedfat,andchoppedhaminastandmixerfittedwithapaddleandmixonlowspeeduntilblended.Trynottoincorporatetoomuchair.
2.Drawa7-inch(18cm)squareonapieceofparchmentpaperwithapencil.Fliptheparchmentoversothatthebuttermixturewon’tcomeincontactwiththepencilmarks.Placethebutterinthecenterofthesquareandspreaditevenlywithanoffsetspatulatofillthesquare.Refrigerateovernight.
ONEDAYBEFOREMAKETHREEFOLDS
1.Removethebuttermixturefromtherefrigerator.Itshouldstillbesoftenoughtobendslightlywithoutcracking.Ifitistoofirm,lightlybeatitwitharollingpinonalightlyflouredworksurfaceuntilitbecomespliable.Makesuretopressthebutterbacktoits7-inch(18cm)squareafterworkingit.
2.Removethedoughfromtherefrigerator,makingsureitisverycoldthroughout.Placethedoughonalightlyflouredworksurface.Arrangethebutterblockinthecenterofthedoughsoitlookslikeadiamondinthecenterofthesquare(rotated45degrees,withthecornersofthebutterblockfacingthecenterofthedoughsides).Pullthecornersofthedoughupandovertothecenterofthebutterblock.Pinchtheseamsofdoughtogethertosealthebutterinside.Youshouldhaveasquareslightlylargerthanthebutterblock.
3.Lightlydusttheworksurfacewithflourtoensurethatthedoughwon’tstick.Witharollingpin,usingsteady,evenpressure,rolloutthedoughfromthe
centersothatittriplesinlength.Thiswilltakeseveralpasses.Whenfinished,youshouldhavearectangleabout24by10inches(60by25cm)and1/4inch(6mm)thick.
4.Placethedoughsothelongersidesrunlefttoright.Fromtherightside,foldone-thirdofthedoughontoitself,keepingtheedgeslinedupwitheachother.Fromtheleftside,foldtheremainingone-thirdofdoughontopofthesidethathasalreadybeenfolded.Lineupalltheedgessothatyouareleftwithasquare.Thedoughisbeingfoldedasifitwereapieceofpapergoingintoanenvelope,sothisiscalleda“letterfold.”Wrapthedoughtightlyinplasticwrapandrefrigerateforabout1hourtorelaxthegluten.
5.Repeatsteps3and4foryoursecondfold.6.Withtheseamalwaysontheright,rolloutthedoughverticallyfromtopto
bottom,rotatethedough90degrees,andrepeattheletterfoldoncemore.Dothisagain,makingathirdletterfold,withtheseamstotheright.Refrigeratethedoughfor1hourbetweenfolds.Wrapthedoughtightlyinplasticwrapandrefrigeratefor1hour.
7.Placethedoughonalightlyflouredworksurface.Witharollingpin,usingsteady,evenpressure,rolloutthedoughfromthecenterverticallyfromtoptobottomsothatittriplesinlength.Thiswilltakeseveralpasses.Whenfinished,youshouldhavearectangleabout24by10inches(60by25cm)and1/4inch(6mm)thick.Coveritlightlywithplasticwrapandrefrigeratefor1hourtorest.2
8.Lightlyflourtheworksurfaceandlaythedoughflat.Usingaruler,startingfromtheleftside,scorethedoughevery3inches(8cm)alongthebottomedgeuntilyoureachtherightsideofthedough.Makethefirstscoreonthetopedge11/2inches(4cm)fromtheleftend.Continuescoringthetopedgeevery3inches(8cm).Thesestaggeredmarksshouldgiveaniceguidelineforcuttingtriangles.Usealargechef’sknifetoconnecteachscoremarkonthetopwiththetwoatbottomoneithersideofit.Theisoscelestrianglesshouldmeasure3inches(8cm)wideand10inches(25cm)high.Therewillbenarrowtrianglesofdoughleftoverateachend.
9.Gentlystretchthecuttrianglesanadditional2to3inches(5to8cm)inlength,beingcarefulnottotearthedough.3
ROLL,FILL,ANDSHAPE
1.Lay1sliceofthereservedIbéricohamoneachtriangleofcroissantdough,keepingthehaminsidethebordersofthedough.Atthewideendofeachdoughtriangle,placeasliceofMahóncheese.4
2.Startingatthewideend,rollthecroissantdoughtowardthetip,keepingsteady,evenpressureasyouroll.Whenfinished,makesurethetipofthedoughisonthebottomofthecroissant.
3.Lineasheetpanwithparchmentpaper.Placethecroissantsonthesheetpanabout4inches(10cm)apart.Lightlylayapieceofplasticwrapoverthecroissantsandrefrigerateovernight.
THEDAYOFBAKE
1.Removethetrayofcroissantsfromtherefrigerator.Keepthemlightlycoveredinplasticwrap.Proofatroomtemperatureuntiltripledinsize,1hour30minutesto2hours.
2.Placearackinthecenteroftheovenandpreheattheovento375°F(190°C)forconventionalor350°F(175°C)forconvection.
3.LightlybrushthecroissantswitheggwashandsprinklewithgratedMahóncheese,about1teaspoonpercroissant.Bakeonthecenterrackfor8minutes.Rotatethepan180degreesandbakefor8minutesmoreoruntilgoldenbrown.Removefromtheovenandletcoolbriefly.
1.Instantyeastisoftenusedfordoughswithhighersugarcontent,becausethisyeastneedslesswatertoreactandsugartendstopullwaterfromdough.Youcansubstitutethesamequantityofactivedryyeast,butyoumaygetadenserfinalproduct.
2.Ifyoudon’thaveenoughspaceintherefrigerator,youcangentlyfoldthedoughinhalftofit.
3.Stretchingoutthedoughnotonlygivesyoumoretoroll,italsorelaxesthedough.
4.TheMahóncheesewillneedtobebrokenuptofitintothetriangle.
SERVINGINSTRUCTIONSBestservedfreshandhotoutoftheoven.
STORAGEINSTRUCTIONSCroissantsshouldbeeatenwithin5hoursofbaking.
SWEETPOTATOMONTBLANC
Ilovemakingthisrecipe...becauseitisamixoftextures:creamy,crispy,chewy,andcrumbly.
SKILLLEVELAdvanced
TIME 5 hours one day before; 45minutes the day of YIELD 6 individualMontBlancs
TIMELINE
ONEDAYBEFOREMakemeringues,sablécookiedough,marmalade,purée,mousse,and Chantilly cream; begin assembly THE DAY OF Bake sablé cookies; finishassembly
SPECIALTOOLS
3uncutpipingbagsAteco#804plaintip(3/8-inch/1cmdiameter)6siliconeconemolds2
BlenderorfoodprocessorSmalloffsetspatula
SmalloffsetspatulaStandmixerwithwhiskattachment11/2-inch(3.75cm)ringcutter,oronethatfitsthebottomofthemoldSieve(optional)
INGREDIENTS
Swissmeringue(page116) 1batch 1batch
SabléBretoncookiedough(page126),unbaked
1batch 1batch
CITRUSMARMALADEOrange 1orange 1orange
Lemons 11/2lemons 11/2lemonsGranulatedsugar 1/3cup 68grams
Grapefruitjuice 2tablespoons 31grams
Orangejuice 2tablespoons 31grams
Limejuice 2tablespoons 31grams
Lemonjuice 2tablespoons 31gramsFinelychoppedlemonzest 1lemon 1lemon
SWEETPOTATOPURÉEGranulatedsugar 21/4cups 461grams
Water 2cups+4tablespoons 500grams
Sweetpotatoes,small,whole,skinon 101/2ounces 300grams
SWEETPOTATOMOUSSEGelatinsheet(160bloom)1 1each 1eachHeavycream 1/2cup+1tablespoon 118grams
Darkrum 1tablespoon 15grams
Lightbrownsugar 2tablespoons+2teaspoons 30grams
Unsaltedbutter(84%butterfat) 11/2tablespoons 21grams
Sweetpotatopurée(fromabove) 3/4cup 189gramsVanillaChantillyCream(page185),unwhipped
2batches 2batches
Confectioners’sugar(forserving,optional) asneeded asneeded
ONEDAYBEFOREMAKEMERINGUES
1.MakeSwissmeringue,page116.Preheattheovento200°F(95°C)forconventionalor175°F(80°C)forconvection.
2.Cutthetipofapipingbagtosnuglyfita#804plaintip.Usingarubberspatula,place2largescoopsofSwissmeringueinthebagsothatitisone-thirdfull.Pushthemeringuedowntowardthetipofthebag.
3.Lineasheetpanwithparchmentpaper.Ateachcorner,pipeasmalldotofmeringueundertheparchmentandpushtheparchmentflat.Thiswillhelpkeepit“glued”tothesheetpan.Holdingthepipingbagata90degreeangleabout1/2inch(1.25cm)abovethepan,pipethemeringuewithsteady,evenpressure.Pipeatleast6smallteardrops,justover1inch(3cm)wideandjustover1inch(3cm)tall.3
4.Wetyourfingerslightlyandpressdownonthepeaksoftheteardropstoflattenthem.Themeringuesshouldbeshapedlikethickbuttons.4
5.Bakefor20minutes.Rotatethepan180degreesandbakefor20minutesmore.Continuetorotateevery20minutesuntilthemeringuesarecompletelydry,about1hour20minutes.
6.Letthemeringues,stillontheparchmentpaper,coolcompletely.Themeringuesshouldbecrispyallthewaythrough,withnomoistureontheinside.Reserveinanairtightcontainerinacool,dryspace.
MAKESABLÉCOOKIEDOUGH
Make sablé cookie dough, page 126. Roll out the sablé cookie dough to arectanglealittlelargerthan6by9inches(15by23cm).Wraptightlybetweentwosheetsofparchmentandletitrestovernightintherefrigerator.
MAKEMARMALADE
1.Whilethemeringuesarebaking,cutthetopandbottomofftheorangeandthelemon.Trimasmuchofthepeelandpithoffthefruitaspossiblewithoutcuttingintothesegmentsofcitrus.Cutthepeelintoextremelythinstrips,aboutthethicknessofacreditcard.
2.Combinethelemonandorangepeelsinasmallpot.Fillthepotwithenoughcoldwatertocompletelycoverthepeels.Placeonhighheatandbringtoaboil.Removefromtheheatanddrain.Repeatthisprocess2moretimes.Thisblanchingprocesshelpsyoueliminatethebitternessfromthepeels.
3.Draintheblanchedorangeandlemonpeels,returnthemtothepot,andaddthesugarandthegrapefruit,orange,lime,andlemonjuices.Bringtoaboiloverhighheatandthenlowertheheattoasimmer.Simmerforabout30minutes,stirringoccasionallytomakesurethemarmaladedoesn’tburn.Asitcooks,itwillthickenandtheorangeandlemonpeelswillbecometender.
4.Addthefinelychoppedlemonzest.
5.Transferthemarmaladetoasmallbowlandletcooltoroomtemperature.Whenfullycooled,coverwithplasticwrapandrefrigerate.
MAKEPURÉE
1.Combinethegranulatedsugarandwaterinamediumpotandbringtoaboil.Addthesweetpotatoes.Reducetheheattoasimmerandcookuntilthesweetpotatoesaretender,about30minutes.Youshouldbeabletoslideaknifethroughthemwithnoresistance.Drainthepotatoes(discardthesyrup)andletthemcoolfor15to20minutes.
2.Whilethesweetpotatoesarestillwarm,peelofftheskinwithaparingknife.53.Puréethepotatoesinablenderorfoodprocessoruntilsmooth.Measureout
3/4cup(189grams)intoamediumbowl,coverwithplasticwrap,andreserveatroomtemperature.
MAKEMOUSSE
1.Soakthegelatinsheetinabowloficewateruntilsoft,about20minutes.Ifusingpowderedgelatin,sprinkle1teaspoon(2.3grams)gelatinover1tablespoon(15grams)waterinasmallbowl,stir,andletsit20minutestobloom.
2.Whiptheheavycreamwithawhisktomediumpeaksinamediumbowl.Thecreamshouldfallbackontoitself.Coverwithplasticwrapandrefrigerateuntilneeded.
3.Combinetherumandbrownsugarinasmallpot.Bringtoaboiloverhighheattodissolvethesugar.Removefromtheheat.
4.Ifusingagelatinsheet,squeezeoutanyexcesswater.Whiskthebloomedgelatinintothehotrumuntilthegelatinisdissolved.Slowlywhiskinthebutterinfouradditions,makingsurethebutteriscompletelyincorporatedbeforeaddingmore.Slowlystreamthemixtureintothesweetpotatopurée,whiskingconstantly.
5.Witharubberspatula,foldone-thirdofthewhippedcreamintothesweetpotatobase.Whenfullyincorporated,foldintheremainingwhippedcreamasgentlyaspossibletoretainitsvolume.Whenfinished,themousseshouldbeuniformincolor,withnostreaksofcream,andabletoholdasoftpeak.
6.Usingarubberspatula,place2largescoopsofmousseinapipingbagsothatitisone-thirdfull.Pushthemoussedowntowardthetipofthebag.Reserveintherefrigeratoruntilneeded.
MAKECHANTILLYCREAM
Make vanilla Chantilly cream, page 185.Using a rubber spatula, place 2 largescoops ofChantilly cream in a piping bag so that it is one-third full. Push thecreamdowntowardthetipofthebag.Refrigerateuntilneeded.
BEGINASSEMBLY
1.Lineasheetpanwithparchmentpaperandplaceaconemoldonit.Cutanopeningabout1/2inch(1.25cm)widestraightacrossthetipofthepipingbagfilledwithsweetpotatomousse.Placethetipofthebagatthebottomofthemoldandfillittwo-thirdsofthewaytothetop.Usingasmalloffsetspatula,spreadthemousseupthesidesofthemold.Thisway,youcreateaspaceinthecenterofthemousse.(Youarealsoeliminatinganyairpocketsthatmighthaveformedwhilepiping.)Themousseshouldmeasureabout3/8inch(1cm)aroundthesidesofthemold.
2.Spoonabout1teaspoonofcitrusmarmaladeintothespaceinthecenterofthemousse.Gentlypushameringuebutton,flatsideup,intothecitrusmarmalade.Toavoidcreatingairpockets,makesurethebuttonisinfullcontactwiththemarmalade.
3.Cutanopeningabout3/8inch(1cm)widestraightacrossthetipofthepipingbagfilledwithChantillycream.Pipethecreamoverthemeringuebutton,makingsuretocompletelycovertheentiresurfaceofthemeringue.Thereshouldbeabout3/8inch(1cm)leftatthetopofthemold.Pipetheremainingsweetpotatomousseoverthecream,fillingthemold.Useasmalloffsetspatulatoleveloffthemousse.AssembletheremainingMontBlancsinthesamefashion.Coverthemoldslooselywithplasticwrapandfreezeovernight.ReservetheremainingChantillycream.
THEDAYOFBAKESABLÉCOOKIES
1.Placearackinthecenteroftheovenandpreheattheovento350°F(175°C)forconventionalor325°F(160°C)forconvection.Lineasheetpanwithparchmentpaper.
2.Removethecookiedoughfromtherefrigeratorandpeeloffthetoplayerofparchment.Usingtheringcutter,cutout6circlesofdough.Placethemonthelinedsheetpanabout1inch(3cm)apart.Bakethesablécookiesonthecenterrackfor8minutes.Rotatethepan180degreesandbakefor8minutesmoreoruntilgoldenbrown.
3.Whenthesablécookieshavereachedthedesiredcolor,removefromtheovenandplacethem,stillontheparchmentpaper,onaflatsurface.Using
thesameringcutter,trimtheedgesbypushingtheringcutterdownthroughthewarmsablécookie.Letthesablécookies,stillontheparchmentpaper,coolcompletely.6
FINISHASSEMBLY
1.Whenthemousseiscompletelyfrozen,removefromthemoldsbypushingupfromthebottom.Inverteachmousseconesothewidebaseisthebottom.Placeeachpyramidontopofasablécookie.
2.UsetheremainingChantillycreamtodecoratetheMontBlancs.Holdingthebagata90-degreeangleabout1/2inch(1.25cm)abovethemoussepyramid,pipealargedotofChantillycream,pullingstraightuptomakealargeteardrop.
3.TransferthefinishedMontBlancstotherefrigeratorfor2to3hoursbeforeserving.
1.ThemoldIrecommendissilicone,about3inches(7.5cm)high,cone-shaped,withaflattopabout1inch(2.5cm)acrossthepointanda11/2-inch(3.75cm)squarebase.Ifyoudon’thavethismold,simplyadjustthesizeofthesablécookietomatchthebaseofthemoldyouhave.
2. If youcan’t findgelatin sheets,usepowderedgelatin.Onegelatin sheet=1 scant teaspoon(2.3 grams) powdered gelatin. For every teaspoon of gelatin, bloom in 1 tablespoon (15 grams)water.
3.Itisalwaysgoodtopipeafewextrameringuesjusttobesafe.Theytendtobreakeasily.
4.Ifyouhaveleftovermeringue,trymakingMiniMe’s(page116).
5.Peelingpotatoeswhiletheyarestillwarmensurestheskinwillcomeoffmuchmoreeasily.
6.Ifthebakedsablécookiescooldowntoomuch,theywillbecomedifficulttocutcleanly.Youcanalwaysreturnthemtotheovenforaminuteuntiltheybecomeeasiertocut.Justbecarefulnottooverbakethem.
SERVINGINSTRUCTIONSLettheMontBlancssitoutfor5minutestotemperbeforeserving.Alightdustingofconfectioners’sugarwouldbeanicetouch.
STORAGE INSTRUCTIONS Mont Blancs should be consumed within 24 hours ofthawing.Theycanbekeptfrozenforupto1weekwithoutthesablécookiebase(whichshouldbebakedthedayof).
GINGERBREADPINECONE
Ilovemakingthisrecipe...stackedupbeautifullyonamultitieredstandtolooklikeatreeforthefestiveholidayseason.
SKILLLEVELAdvanced
TIME 2 hours 30minutes two days before; 3 hours one day before; 1 hour 30minutesthedayofYIELD10to12pinecones
TIMELINE
TWODAYSBEFOREMakecream,cinnamonganache,praliné feuilletine,andpear-nutmegbiscuitONEDAYBEFOREWhipcreamandcinnamonganache;cutpralinéfeuilletine; begin assembly; make chocolate décor THE DAY OF Make chocolateganache;finishassembly
SPECIALTOOLS
MediumsieveInstant-readthermometerOffsetspatula
11/4-inch(3cm)ringcutter2uncutpipingbags2Ateco#804plaintips(3/8-inch/1cmdiameter)Standmixerwithwhiskattachment
2paletteknives2acetatesheets,each153/4by113/4inches(40by30cm)2petalorteardropcutters:3/4-inch(2cm)and1-inch(2.5cm)
INGREDIENTSGINGERCREAMGelatinsheet(160bloom)1 2each 2each
Heavycream 3/4cup,plusmoreasneeded 185grams,plusmoreasneeded
Choppedpeeledfreshginger 1/4cup 38gramsEggyolks(large) 2each 40grams
Granulatedsugar 2tablespoons+1teaspoon 30grams
CINNAMONGANACHEGelatinsheet(160bloom)1 1/2each 1/2each
Whitechocolatechips 1/4cup 45grams
Groundcinnamon 1/2teaspoon 1.5gramsHeavycream 3/4cup+2tablespoons 203grams
PRALINÉFEUILLETINEMilkchocolate(36%cocoacontent),finelychopped
3tablespoon 15grams
Unsaltedbutter(84%butterfat) 1teaspoon 4grams
Feuilletine2 1/4cup 20grams
Hazelnutpaste3 2tablespoons 35grams
PEAR-NUTMEGBISCUITUnsaltedbutter(84%butterfat) 3tablespoons+1teaspoon 47grams
All-purposeflour 3/4cup 73grams
Granulatedsugar 1/2cup 103grams
Bakingsoda 1/4teaspoon 1gram
Groundnutmeg 3/4teaspoon 1.75gramsKoshersalt 1/2teaspoon 1gram
Bakingpowder 1/4teaspoon 1.5grams
Wholeegg(large;beat1eggandmeasureouthalf)
1/2each 1/2each(25grams)
Pearpurée4 1/3cup+1tablespoon 84grams
CHOCOLATEDÉCORDarkchocolate,finelychopped 2cups 300grams
DARKCHOCOLATEGANACHEWater 2tablespoons 26grams
Unsweetenedcocoapowder 21/4teaspoons 5grams
Heavycream 1/4cup 57gramsWholemilk 2tablespoons 29grams
Eggyolks(large;beat2yolksandmeasureoutthree-quarters)
11/2tablespoons 11/2each(30grams)
Granulatedsugar 2tablespoons 26grams
Darkchocolate(66%cocoacontent),finelychopped
1/2cup 83grams
Confectioners’sugar(fordecoration) asneeded asneeded
TWODAYSBEFOREMAKECREAM
1.Soakthegelatinsheetsinabowloficewateruntilsoft,about20minutes.5Ifusingpowderedgelatin,sprinkle2teaspoons(5grams)gelatinover2tablespoons(30grams)waterinasmallbowl,stir,andletsit20minutestobloom.
2.Bringthecreamtoaboilinasmallpotovermediumheat.Removefromtheheatandaddtheginger.Coverthepotwithplasticwrapandsetitasidetoinfusefor20minutes.
3.Straintheinfusedcreamthroughamediumsieveintoameasuringcup.Addmoreheavycreamtoreturnittotheoriginalamount.Returnthecreamtothesmallpotandbringtoaboilagainovermediumheat.Removefromtheheat.
4.Whisktheyolksandsugartogetherinaheatproofbowl.Streamone-thirdofthehotcreamintotheyolks,whiskingconstantlyuntilfullyblended,totemperthem.Whiskthetemperedyolksintotheremaininghotcreamandreturnthepottomediumheat.Whiskingconstantly,cookthegingercreamuntilitreaches185°F(85°C),beginstobubbleslightly,andbecomesthick.Removefromtheheat.
5.Ifusinggelatinsheets,squeezeoutanyexcesswater.Whiskthebloomedgelatinintothegingercreamuntilfullydissolved.Strainthegingercreamthroughasmallsieveintoacleanbowl.Coverwithplasticwrappresseddirectlyontothesurfaceofthecream,topreventaskinfromforming.Refrigerateovernighttoset.
MAKECINNAMONGANACHE
1.Soakthegelatinsheetinabowloficewateruntilsoft,about20minutes.Ifusingpowderedgelatin,sprinkle1/2teaspoon(about1.5grams)gelatinover11/2teaspoons(7.5grams)icewaterinasmallbowl,stir,andletsit20minutestobloom.
2.Combinethewhitechocolatechipsandgroundcinnamoninasmallheatproofbowl.
3.Bringtheheavycreamtoaboilinasmallpotovermediumheat.Removefromtheheat.Ifusingagelatinsheet,squeezeoutanyexcesswater.Whiskthebloomedgelatinintothehotcreamuntilthegelatinisdissolved.
4.Pourthehotcreamoverthewhitechocolateandletstandfor30seconds.5.Whiskthecream,whitechocolate,andcinnamonuntilhomogeneousand
smooth.Coverwithplasticwrappresseddirectlyontothesurfaceoftheganache,topreventaskinfromforming.Refrigerateovernighttoset.
MAKEPRALINÉFEUILLETINE
1.Meltthemilkchocolateinasmallbowlinthemicrowaveonhighpowerin20-secondintervals,stirringwithaheatproofspatulabetweenintervals,untilsmooth.
2.Meltthebutterinthemicrowaveinamediumbowl.Usingthespatula,stirinthemeltedchocolate.Addthefeuilletineandhazelnutpasteandstirwiththespatulauntilthefeuilletineisevenlycoated.
3.Spreadthefeuilletineonasheetofparchmentpaper,placeasecondsheetofparchmentontop,andpressdown.Witharollingpin,rollthefeuilletinetoathicknessof1/4inch(5mm).Transferthefeuilletine,stillbetweentheparchmentsheets,toasheetpanandfreeze.
MAKEPEAR-NUTMEGBISCUIT
1.Placearackinthecenteroftheovenandpreheattheovento375°F(190°C)forconventionalor350°F(175°C)forconvection.Lineaquartersheetpanwithparchmentpaper.
2.Meltthebutterinasmallpotovermediumheat.Removefromtheheatandkeepwarm.
3.Whisktheflour,granulatedsugar,bakingsoda,nutmeg,salt,andbakingpowdertogetherinamediumbowl.Inanothermediumbowl,whisktogethertheeggandpearpuréeandstreamintothedryingredients,whiskingtocombine.Continuetowhiskuntilsmooth.Slowlystreamthemeltedbutterintothebatterwhilewhisking.Whenthebutteriscompletelyincorporated,youshouldhavealoose,shinybatterthatspreadseasily.
4.Usingarubberspatula,scoopthebatterontothequartersheetpan.Withanoffsetspatula,spreadthebatterevenlytofillthepansothatitisabout1/4inch(6mm)thick.
5.Bakethebiscuitonthecenterrackoftheovenfor8minutes.Rotatethepan180degreesandbakefor8minutesmore.Whenfinished,thebiscuitwillbeadeepgoldenbrownandspringbacktothetouch.Letthebiscuit,stillinthepan,coolcompletely.
6.Invertthesheetpanontoacuttingboard.Liftoffthepanandpeelawaytheparchmentpaperfromthebiscuit.Punchout12circlesofbiscuitwitha11/4-inch(3cm)ringcutter.Wrapwithplasticwrapandrefrigerateuntilneeded.
ONEDAYBEFOREWHIPCREAM
Using a whisk, work the ginger cream into a smooth paste. Cut the tip of apipingbag to snugly fit a#804plain tip.Using a rubber spatula, place 2 largescoops of ginger cream in the bag so that it is one-third full. Push the creamdowntowardthetipofthebag.Setaside.
WHIPCINNAMONGANACHE
1.Transfertheganachetoastandmixerfittedwithawhisk.Whiponhighspeeduntilstiffpeaksform.
2.Cutthetipofanotherpipingbagtosnuglyfita#804plaintip.Usingarubberspatula,place2largescoopsofganacheinthebagsothatitisone-thirdfull.Pushtheganachedowntowardthetipofthebag.
CUTPRALINÉFEUILLETINE
Remove the feuilletine from the freezer. Peel off the top sheet of parchmentpaper.Punchout12circleswiththe11/4-inch(3cm)ringcutter.Returntothefreezeruntilneeded.
BEGINASSEMBLY
1.Lineasheetpanwithparchmentpaper.Placeapralinéfeuilletinecircleonthepan.Ontopofthat,placeacircleofpear-nutmegbiscuit.Makesuretocenterthebiscuitsothatitlinesupperfectlywiththepralinéfeuilletine.
2.Holdingthepipingbagofgingercreamata90-degreeangleabout1/2inch(1.25cm)abovethebiscuit,pipeadotthatcoversthesurfaceofthebiscuit.
Useyourfreehandtoholdthebiscuitinplace.Whenthecreamreachestheedgesofthebiscuit,pullstraightuptocreateateardropshape.
3.Holdingthepipingbagofcinnamonganacheata90-degreeangle,startatthebaseofthebiscuitandpipeganacheoverthegingercream,wrappingaroundthecreamandworkinguntilitiscompletelycovered.Atthispointthepineconewilllooklikeithasbeenwrappedinrope.Repeatwiththeremainingfeuilletineandbiscuitcircles.Freezeovernight.
MAKECHOCOLATEDÉCOR
1.Meltandtemperthedarkchocolate(seepage242).2.Placeasheetofparchmentpaperontheworksurface.Usingapaletteknife,
onthefirstsheetofacetatespreadhalfofthetemperedchocolateinathin,evenlayeraboutthethicknessofacreditcard.Whenthechocolateisnolongershiny,usethelargepetalcuttertopunchout250chocolatepieces.Youwillhavejust2to3minutesbeforethechocolateisfullyset,sospeedisveryimportant.Whenyouaredone,flipthesheetoverontotheparchmentpapersotheacetateisfacingup.Thiswillkeepthechocolateflatasitsets.
3.Repeattheprocessusingthesmallpetalcutteronthesecondsheetofacetateandcut250petals.Whenfinished,placeitontopofthefirstsheetandletthembothsetintherefrigeratorfor20minutes.
4.Peelofftheacetateandseparatethechocolatedécor.Storeinanairtightcontaineratroomtemperature.
THEDAYOFMAKECHOCOLATEGANACHE
1.Whiskthewaterandcocoapowderinasmallbowltomakeasmoothpaste.Setasideatroomtemperature.
2.Combinethecreamandmilkinasmallpotandbringtoaboilovermediumheat.Removefromtheheat.Whisktheeggyolksandgranulatedsugarinasmallbowluntilfullyblended.6
3.Streamone-thirdofthehotcreamandmilkintotheeggyolks,whiskingconstantlyuntilfullyblended,totemperthem.Whiskthetemperedyolksintotheremaininghotcreamandmilkandreturnthepottomediumheat.
4.Continuetocookthecustardovermediumheat,whiskingcontinuously,untilitreaches185°F(85°C).Thecustardwillturnpaleyellowandthickensothatitcoatsthebackofaspoon.Removefromtheheat,addthecocoapowderpaste,andwhiskuntilfullyblended.
5.Placethedarkchocolateinaheatproofbowl.Strainthecustardthroughasmallsieveoverthechocolate.Letstandfor30seconds.
6.Whiskthechocolateandcustarduntilhomogeneousandsmooth.Whenfinished,theganachewillhavetheconsistencyofpancakebatterandbepourable.
FINISHASSEMBLY
1.Lineasheetpanwithparchmentpaperandplaceawirerackontop.Takethepineconebasesoutofthefreezerandarrangethemonthewirerack,about3inches(7.5cm)apart.
2.Makesurethedarkchocolateganacheisbetween95°and104°F(35°and40°C),orslightlywarmtothetouch.Letitcoolfurtherorrewarmitgentlyoversimmeringwaterifnecessary.7
3.Pourthechocolateganachedirectlyoverthetopofafrozenpineconesothatitcoverstheentirestructure.Repeatwiththeremainingpinecones.Refrigeratefor5minutestosetlightly.
4.Withanoffsetspatula,transferthepineconesfromthewireracktoasheetpanorindividualservingplates.Letthawintherefrigeratorfor2to3hoursbeforeapplyingthedécor.
5.Startingatthebottomofthepinecone,andwiththesmallerpetalsfirst,placethepointedendofthedécorintotheganache,roundedendfacingup.Placethenextpieceofdécordirectlynexttothefirstone.Repeatuntilthedécorcompletelywrapsaroundthepinecone.Makeasecondrow1/2inch(1.25cm)abovethefirst.Completeathirdandfinalrowofsmallpetals.
6.Towardthecenter,startusingthelargerpetalsandthenswitchtothesmallerpetalsagainatthetop.
7.Continuetofillthepineconewithdécoruntilyoureachthetop(aminimumof6layersandupto12layersofdécortotal).Afinishedpineconewillusearound40piecesofchocolatedécor.Continuewiththeremainingpinecones.8Keepintherefrigeratoruntilreadytoserve.
1. If youcan’t findgelatin sheets,usepowderedgelatin.Onegelatin sheet=1 scant teaspoon(2.3 grams) powdered gelatin. For every teaspoon of gelatin, bloom in 1 tablespoon (15 grams)water.
2.Ifyoucan’tfindfeuilletine,youcanuseanykindofcrispywafersorcookies.
3.Ifyoucan’tfindhazelnutpaste,almondbutterisagoodsubstitute.
4.Ifyoucan’tfindpearpurée,puréepeeledandcoredfreshripepears,adding10percentoftheirweightinsugar.
5.Gelatinneeds at least12hours to set completely.Make sure toplan aheadwhenusing anyproductsthatcontaingelatin,astheywillneedtimetoset.
6.Combine the sugarandegg yolks justbeforeusing.Over time, the sugarwill “cook” theeggyolks,creatinglumps.
7.Atthistemperature,thechocolateganacheisfluidenoughtocoatthepineconewithoutmeltingthecinnamonganacheunderneath.
8.Asyoureachthetop3layersofdécor,starttoanglethepetalsuptomorecloselyresembleapinecone.
SERVING INSTRUCTIONSLet thepinecones sitout for5minutes to temperbeforeserving.Immediatelybeforeserving,siftconfectioners’ sugaroverthepineconestogivetheappearanceofsnow.
STORAGEINSTRUCTIONSConsumewithin24hoursofglazing.Unglazedpineconescanbekeptfrozenforupto1week.Thedécorcanbekeptinaclosedairtightcontaineratroomtemperatureforupto1week.
BAKEDALASKA
Ilovemakingthisrecipe...forlargepartiesthatrequirea“wow”factor.
SKILLLEVELAdvanced
TIME2hours30minutestwodaysbefore;3hours30minutesonedaybefore;2hoursthedayofYIELD1largecaketoserve8to10people
TIMELINE
TWODAYSBEFOREMakebiscuit,icecreams,andsorbetbasesONEDAYBEFOREMakecaramelizedsablécookiecrumbsandCalvadossyrup;beginassemblyTHEDAYOF
Makemeringues;finishassembly
SPECIALTOOLS
Instant-readthermometerSmallsieveSmokinggun(optional)Applewoodchips(optional)Standmixerwithpaddleandwhiskattachments
Pastrybrush10by4by4–inch(25by10by10cm)terrinemoldIcecreammachine6uncutpipingbags
INGREDIENTS
Almondbiscuit(page141) 2batches 2batches
VanillaIceCreambase(page124);chilledbutnotchurned
1batch 1batch
SMOKEDCINNAMONICECREAMWholemilk 21/3cups 548gramsHeavycream 1/4cup+1tablespoon 61grams
Groundcinnamon,preferablysmoked 11/4teaspoons 3grams
Granulatedsugar 1/2cup+1tablespoon 116grams
Milkpowder 1/3cup 30g
Eggyolks(large),atroomtemperature 5each 5each(100grams)Unsaltedbutter(84%butterfat) 3tablespoons 42grams
CARAMELICECREAMGranulatedsugar 3/4cup 154grams
Unsaltedbutter(84%butterfat) 21/2tablespoons 35grams
Wholemilk 21/4cups 528grams
Heavycream 1/4cup+1teaspoon 59gramsMilkpowder 1/3cup+1tablespoon 30grams
Koshersalt 1teaspoon 2grams
Eggyolks(large),atroomtemperature 5each 5each(100grams)
GREENAPPLESORBETWater 11/4cups+21/2
tablespoons263grams
Granulatedsugar 3/4cup 154gramsGreenapplepurée 21/2cups 566grams
Calvados 1tablespoon+1teaspoon 15grams
CARAMELIZEDSABLÉBRETONCOOKIECRUMBSSabléBretoncookiedough(page126),unbaked
1batch 1batch
Lightcornsyrup 2tablespoons 37grams
Glazingfondant 2tablespoons 37grams
CALVADOSSYRUPGranulatedsugar 1/4cup 50grams
Water 1/2cup+1tablespoon 115grams
Calvados 1/4cup+1tablespoon 75grams
Swissmeringue(page116) 1batch 1batchRedsandingsugar(fordecoration) 2tablespoons 16grams
TWODAYSBEFOREMAKEBISCUIT
BakeadoublebatchofthealmondbiscuitintheCotton-SoftCheesecakerecipe,page141.Itcanbebakedwithoutcutting.Letcooltoroomtemperature, thenwrapwellinplasticwrapandrefrigerate.
MAKEVANILLAICECREAMBASE
Preparethebaseforvanillaicecreambutdonotchurnityet.Strainitthroughasmallsieveintoaquartcontainer.Fillalargebowlwithiceandwater.Placethecontainerof icecreambaseintheicebath.Stirthebasewithawhiskevery10minutestocoolitrapidly.Whenfullycooled,refrigerateuntilneeded.1
MAKE(SMOKED)CINNAMONICECREAMBASE
1.Forextraflavor,placethegroundcinnamoninaresealableplasticbag.Fitthetipofthesmokinggunfilledwithapplewoodchipsintothebagandseal.Letthesmokefillthebagandclose.Setasidefor30minutes,sothegroundcinnamoncanabsorbthesmoke.
2.Combinethemilk,cream,and(smoked)cinnamoninamediumpotandwarmoverlowheat.Whiskthegranulatedsugarandmilkpowdertogetherinamediumbowl.Whiskintothemilkmixture,raisetheheattomedium,andbringtoaboil.Whenthesugarandmilkpowderhavedissolved,removefromtheheat.
3.Placetheeggyolksinamediumheatproofbowlandwhiskthemtoblendlightly.Streamone-thirdofthehotmilkmixtureintotheyolks,whiskingconstantlyuntilfullyblended,totemperthem.Whiskthetemperedyolksintotheremaininghotmilkandreturnthepottomediumheat.
4.Continuetocookthebaseovermediumheat,whiskingcontinuously,untilitreaches185°F(85°C)andbecomesthickenoughtocoatthebackofaspoon.Addthebutterandwhiskuntilmelted.Removefromtheheat.Strainthroughasmallsieveintoaquartcontainer.
5.Fillalargebowlwithiceandwater.Placethecontaineroficecreambaseintheicebath.Stirthebasewithawhiskevery10minutestocoolitrapidly.Whenfullycooled,refrigerateuntilneeded.
MAKECARAMELICECREAMBASE
1.Placeamediumpotoverhighheat.Sprinkleaboutone-quarterofthegranulatedsugarintothehotpot.Asthesugarmeltsandstartstocaramelize,stirwithaheatproofspatulauntilallthesugarcrystalsdissolve.Slowlysprinkleintheremainingsugar,stirringasyousprinkle.Whenallthesugarhasbeenadded,continuetocookuntilthecolorreachesadeepamber.Whiskinthebutteruntilcompletelyincorporated.
2.Combinethewholemilkandheavycreaminanothermediumpot.Bringtoaboilovermediumheat.Removefromtheheat.
3.Pourthecaramelontoaquartersheetpanlinedwithparchmentpaper.Coolatroomtemperaturefor30minutes.Oncecool,breakthesheetedcaramelintosmallpieces.Addtothewarmmilkmixtureandcoverwithplasticwraptoinfuse,about30minutes.
4.Removetheplasticwrapfromthecaramel-infusedmilkandwhiskinthemilkpowderandsalt.
5.Placetheeggyolksinasmallheatproofbowlandwhiskthemtoblendlightly.Streaminone-thirdofthecaramel-infusedmilk,whiskinguntilfullyblended,totempertheyolks.Whiskthetemperedyolksintotheremainingcaramel-infusedmilkandreturnthepottomediumheat.
6.Continuetocookthebaseovermediumheat,whiskingcontinuously,untilitreaches185°F(85°C)andbecomesthickenoughtocoatthebackofaspoon.Removefromtheheat.Strainthroughasmallsieveintoaquartcontainer.
7.Fillalargebowlwithiceandwater.Placethecontaineroficecreambaseintheicebath.Stirthebasewithawhiskevery10minutestocoolitrapidly.Whenfullycooled,refrigerateuntilneeded.
MAKEGREENAPPLESORBETBASE
1.Combinethewaterandgranulatedsugarinamediumpotovermediumheat.Bringtoaboilandcookuntilthesugarisdissolved.Removefromtheheatandletcoolforafewminutes.
2.WhiskinthegreenapplepuréeandCalvadosuntilfullyblended.Transfertoaquartcontainerandsetasidetocooltoroomtemperature.Whencooled,refrigerateuntilneeded.
ONEDAYBEFOREMAKECARAMELIZEDSABLÉCOOKIECRUMBS
1.BakeandcoolthesabléBretoncookiedoughrecipe,page126.Itcanbebakedwithoutcutting.Placethebakedsabléinastandmixerfittedwitha
paddle.Mixonlowspeeduntilthesabléturnsintosandycrumbs.2.Combinethecornsyrupandglazingfondantinasmallpot.Bringthesyrup
toaboilovermediumheatandcontinuetocookuntilthecaramelturnsadeepambercolor.
3.Increasethemixerspeedtomediumandslowlypourthecarameldownthesidesofthebowl,beingcarefultoavoidthepaddle.Whenallthecaramelhasbeenadded,continuetobeatthesablécookiecrumbsfor20secondsmoresothatthecaramelisevenlydistributed.
4.Pourthecaramelizedsablécookiecrumbsontoasheetpanlinedwithparchmentpaperandletcoolcompletely.Whencooled,reserveinanairtightcontainer.
MAKECALVADOSSYRUP
Combine the granulated sugar and water in a small pot. Bring to a boil overmedium heat. Remove from the heat and let the syrup cool to roomtemperature.Whisk theCalvados into the syrup.Reserve at room temperatureuntilneeded.
BEGINASSEMBLY
1.Removetheplasticwrapfromthealmondbiscuitandplaceskinsidedownonasheetpanlinedwithparchmentpaper.Withapastrybrush,applytheCalvadossyrup.
2.Linetheterrinemoldlengthwisewitha14by4–inch(40by10cm)stripofparchmentpaper,leavinga1-inch(2.5cm)overhangateachend.
3.Cutthealmondbiscuitthesamesizeastheparchmentpaper,lettingthebiscuitcome1inch(2.5cm)abovetheedgeofthemoldjustliketheparchment.Cutthree11/2by10–inch(3by25cm)stripsofbiscuitandreserveuntilneeded.Thesewillbelayeredbetweeneachoftheicecreamflavors.
4.Churnthevanillaicecreamaccordingtotheinstructionsforyourmachine.5.Usingarubberspatula,place2largescoopsofthevanillaicecreamina
pipingbagsothatitisone-thirdfull.Cutanopeningabout1inch(2.5cm)widestraightacrossthetipofthebag.Pipealayeroficecreamabout3/4inch(2cm)thickintothebottomofthemold.Pushoneofthestripsofalmondbiscuitintotheicecream,forcingtheicecreamtothesidesofthemoldandcreatingalevellayer.ApplytheCalvadossyruptothebiscuitliberally.Reserveinthefreezer.
6.Churnthe(smoked)cinnamonicecream.Transfertoanotherpipingbag.Cutanopeningabout1inch(2.5cm)widestraightacrossthetipofthebag.Pipealayerof(smoked)cinnamonicecreamabout3/4inch(2cm)thickontopofthebiscuitinthemold.Pushasecondstripofalmondbiscuitintothe(smoked)cinnamonicecream,forcingtheicecreamtothesidesofthemoldandcreatingalevellayer.Returnthemoldtothefreezer.
7.Churnthecaramelicecream.Transferittoathirdpipingbag.Cutanopeningabout1inch(2.5cm)widestraightacrossthetipofthebag.Pipealayerofcaramelicecreamabout3/4inch(2cm)thickontopofthebiscuitinthemold.Pushthelaststripofalmondbiscuitintothecaramelicecream,forcingtheicecreamtothesidesofthemoldandcreatingalevellayer.Returnthemoldtothefreezer.
8.Finally,churnthegreenapplesorbet.Transferittoafourthpipingbag.Cutanopeningabout1inch(2.5cm)widestraightacrossthetipofthebag.Pipealayerofsorbetabout3/4inch(2cm)thickintothemold.
9.Coverthegreenapplesorbetwithhalfthecaramelizedsablécookiecrumbs.GentlypushthecrumbsintothesorbetsothattheywillstickwhenthebakedAlaskaisunmolded.Reservetherestofthecrumbs.CoverthemoldwithplasticwrapandfreezethebakedAlaskaovernight.
THEDAYOFMAKEMERINGUES
1.MakeSwissmeringue,page116.2.Preheattheovento200°F(95°C)forconventionalor175°F(80°C)for
convection.3.Cutthetipofapipingbagtosnuglyfita#804plaintip.Usingarubber
spatula,place2largescoopsofSwissmeringueinthebagsothatitisone-thirdfull.Pushthemeringuedowntowardthetipofthebag.
4.Lineahalfsheetpanwithparchmentpaper.Ateachcorner,pipeasmalldotofmeringueundertheparchmentandpushtheparchmentflat.Thiswillhelpkeepit“glued”tothesheetpan.
5.Holdingthepipingbagata45-degreeangleabout1/2inch(1.25cm)abovethesheetpan,withsteady,evenpressurepipesticksofmeringueabout3inches(7.5cm)long.Whenyoureachtheendofastick,quicklypullthetipstraightup.Pipesticksabout1inch(2.5cm)apartuntilyouhaveatleast40meringuesticks.Sprinklewithredsandingsugar.RefrigeratetheremainingSwissmeringueuntilneededtodecoratethebakedAlaska.
6.Bakethemeringuesticksfor20minutes.Rotatethepan180degreesandbakefor20minutesmore.Continuetorotateevery20minutesuntilthemeringuesticksarecompletelydry,about1hour20minutes.
7.Letthemeringuesticks,stillontheparchmentpaper,coolcompletely.Whencool,removegentlyfromtheparchmentwithyourfingers.Reserveinanairtightcontaineruntilneeded.
FINISHASSEMBLY
1.Slideahotknifearoundeachsideoftheterrine.GentlypulltheparchmentpapertounmoldthebakedAlaska.
2.Cutthetipofapipingbagtosnuglyfita1/2-inch(1.25cm)rosetip.Usingarubberspatula,place2largescoopsofthereservedmeringueinthebagsothatitisone-thirdfull.Pushthemeringuedowntowardthetipofthebag.
3.Usingthemeringueinthepipingbag,slowlyplacethemeringuesticksverticallyoverthebakedAlaskainawave,startingatthebottomrightandendingintheoppositecorner.Thisshouldtakeabout30meringuesticks.
4.PipetheSwissmeringuearoundtheuncoveredareasofthebakedAlaska.Startingatthebottomcorner,pipehorizontallyacrossthebakedAlaska,movingthetipbackandforthabout1inch(2.5cm)toformundulatingwaves.2
5.CoatthetwoexposedendsofthebakedAlaskawiththeremainingcaramelizedsablécookiecrumbs,firmlypushingthecrumbsintotheicecreamandsorbet.
6.Holdthetipoftheblowtorchabout3inches(7.5cm)fromthemeringueandlightlytoasttheoutsideofthebakedAlaska.
1.Sinceyouwillpipe the icecream,youwant tochurn it rightbeforeyouassemble thebakedAlaska.
2.ThereareotherwaystodecoratethebakedAlaska.Onealternativeistousea#804plaintipand pipe teardrops to cover the almond biscuit, giving you a spiked appearance. Another is tospreadthemeringuewithyourhands,creatinganaturalwavytexture.
SERVINGINSTRUCTIONSLettemper5minutesbeforecuttingandserving.
STORAGEINSTRUCTIONSTheundecoratedbakedAlaskacanbefrozenforupto1weekbeforeserving.Meringuestickscanbestoredinaclosedairtightcontainerforupto1week.
ADDITIONALTECHNIQUES
COOKINGCUSTARD
Anycreambasethatcontainseggsisconsideredacustard.You’llfinditinicecreambases,pastrycream,crèmeanglaise,someganaches,andallsortsofbakedflans.Curdsaremadeinasimilarfashion.
Eggscanbetrickytocookbecausetheyaresotemperaturesensitive.Anytemperature higher than 185°F (85°C) and you’ll get scrambled eggs.Whenindoubt,alwaysfollowthesetwoquicktips:
1.Tempertheeggsbyslowlystreaminginone-thirdofthehotliquid,whiskingconstantly.Thiswillraisethetemperatureoftheeggsjustenoughsothatyoucanreturnthemtotherestofthehotliquidwithoutoverheatingandinstantlycookingthem.Thisway,you’llgetasilkytexture.
2.Whentheeggsreturntothehotmixture,theyarenotquitecookedthroughyet.Youwillneedtokeepwhiskinguntilthecustardreachesastatecallednappé,whichmeans“glazed”inFrenchandreferstowhenthecustardisthickenoughtocoatthebackofaspoon.Drawalinewithyourfingerthroughthecoatedportionofthespoon.Youshouldgetaclearline,astheliquidwon’tflowthrough.
When refrigerating custard, always place plastic wrap directly on thesurfacetopreventaskinfromforming.
PÂTEÀCHOUX
Pâte à choux is one of my favorite doughs to work with because I cancreatesomanyshapeswiththiscombinationofmilk,butter,salt,sugar,flour,andeggs—fromthelongfingersoféclairstothecircularringsoftheParis-Brest. But perhaps the most common form it takes is a smallcircular puff, from which it got its name—choux means “cabbage” inFrench—andit’salsothesweetnamethatmymomcallsmydadathome.
BASICSTEPSFORPÂTEÀCHOUX
1.Boilthemilk,butter,salt,andsugar.2.Addtheflourandusesomeelbowgreasetomixthedoughvigorously
withawoodenspoonuntilitstartstodryandformaskinonthebottomofthepot.ThisisreferredtoinFrenchasdesséché,meaning“dehydrated.”(It’simportanttoletsomeofthewaterevaporatesothatyoucanaddeggstothedoughwithoutmakingittoorunny.)
3.Transferthedoughtoabowlandbeattocoolslightly.Beatintheeggsonebyone.(Youcanalsouseastandmixer.)
4.Whenthedoughisdone,youshouldbeabletoliftthespoonanddrawoutaribbonthatslowlydissolvesintothedoughafterafewseconds.
HERE’S A TRICK:Usuallypâteàchoux ismadeandusedrightaway.Butafewyearsago,someoneatthebakerymistakenlyleftitintherefrigeratorovernight. When we tried to use it the next day, the results were evenbetter than usual. The pâte à choux didn’t puff up as much andmaintaineditsshapemorecleanlyasitbaked.
PIPING
I’mthefirsttoadmitthatIdon’thavegreathandwriting,butwhenIpipetheletterswithacornet,theyturnoutprettywell.Inculinaryschool,wepracticed how to properly pipe by writing the alphabet in Gothic scripteverydayforweeks.
Pipingwell is something that takesa lotof repetition.Don’tgiveup—ittakestimetodeveloptherightkindofaccuracyandconsistencyneededtopipe.
TIPSONPIPING
1.Theopentopofthepipingbagshouldalwaysbefoldedoveryourhandsothatyoucanfillitwithoutgettingthetoppartofthebagdirty.
2.Ifyou’reusingatip,alwaysmakesurethetipfitssnuglyintothebottomofthebagbeforefillingit.
3.Don’toverfillthebag.You’llhavemorecontrolwhenyourhandisclosertothetip.
4.Alwaystwisttheopentopofthebagtomakesurethematerialyou’repipingdoesn’tspillout.
5.Useyourfreehandtosteadythetipwhileyousqueezewiththehandholdingthebag.
6.Whenyouaredonepipingtheshape,releasethepressureandquicklypullup,turningyourwristslightlyatthesametime.
7.Pipingata90-degreeanglealwaysgivesyoubettercontrolandamoreevenshape.
8.Ifyouaren’tveryconfidentwhenitcomestopipingfreehand,youcanmakeguidemarksonthepieceofparchmentpaperyou’repipingonto.Justremembertoturnthepaperoversothattheinkorpencilisonthereverseside.
TEMPERINGCHOCOLATE
One of the most important skills for a pastry cook to develop whenadvancingishowtotemperchocolate.Whenmelted,thecocoabutterinchocolate doesn’t naturally resolidify into the proper crystallizationstructure. The goal of tempering is simple: to form the right types ofcrystallization in the cocoa butter so that you get chocolate that has ashinysurfaceandsnapscleanlywhenbroken.Untemperedchocolatesetsmatte, often with white streaks of cocoa butter on the surface (this iscalled“bloom”)andcrumblesratherthanbreaksevenly.
WhenIfirststartedto learnhowtotemperchocolate,Ipracticedonmykitchen table at home. Chocolate was everywhere, but that may be thetypeofspirityouneedto learnthisessentialpastryskill.Throwyourselfintothechallenge.
Therearetwotechniquesfortempering.
TABLETOPTECHNIQUEFORTEMPERING
1.Startwithamarbleorgranitesurface,whichiscleananddryanddoesn’tabsorbtheheat.
2.Meltthechocolatetothepropertemperature. Darkchocolate:118°F(48°C) Milkchocolate:113°F(45°C) Whitechocolate:109°F(43°C)
3.Pour80percentofthemeltedchocolateontotheworkspace.Usingtwopaletteknives,slowlymovethechocolatearoundtoagitateit.Scrapetheknivesagainsteachothertocleanthemasyouwork.
4.Watchasthechocolatestartstothickenanddevelopagleam.Thetemperatureshouldbeabout84°F(29°C),andthechocolateshouldfeelslightlycooltothetouch,asit’sjustbelowbodytemperature.
5.Returntheagitatedchocolatetothebowlwiththeremainingmeltedchocolate,usingthepaletteknives.Theagitatedchocolatewillreheatslightlyasthewholeamountcomestothepropertemperature. Darkchocolate:88°F(31°C) Milkchocolate:86°F(30°C) Whitechocolate:86°F(30°C)
Inyourfirstfewtimestempering,alwaysmakesuretotestbydippinganoffsetspatulaorpieceofparchmentpaperintothechocolatetoseeifitsets shiny. If not, try again with the same chocolate. Once tempered,chocolatemustbeusedimmediately.Ifitsolidifies,retemper.
SEEDINGTECHNIQUEFORTEMPERING
1.Melttwo-thirdsofthechocolatethatyouwanttotemper.2.Finelychoptheremainingone-third.Slowlymixitintothemelted
chocolatewitharubberspatula.(Thisisalsoreferredtoas“agitatingthechocolate.”)Asyouaddthechoppedchocolateand“seed”themeltedchocolate,itwillcool.(Thinkofitlikeaddingicecubestoasinkfullofwater.)
3.Thechocolateshouldbetemperedwhenallthechoppedchocolatehasbeenincorporated.
Thistechniquemaybefaster,butit’slessprecise.Itisagreatalternativeforsmallerkitchens.
FIREANDWATER
Twothingswillruinchocolateandmakeitunusable.
1.Ifyouheatchocolateonitsowntoover129°F(54°C),youwillburnorscorchit.
2.Ifyouwetthechocolatewithwaterorsteamwhiletemperingit,thechocolatewillseizeandturngrainyandpasty.
LAMINATION
Laminationisatechniqueoflayeringdoughwithbutter.ItisresponsiblefortheflakytextureofmanyofourfavoriteFrenchpastryclassicssuchasthecroissant,Danish,andpuffpastry.
WhenIwasgoingthroughmytraining,laminateddoughswerealwaysoneofthelastthingsonthecurriculumbecausetheyrequiredfasthandsandalargetimecommitment;thedoughneedstorestwhilebeinglayered.Itcantakeupto3daystolaminatesomedoughs.
BASICSTEPSTOLAMINATION
1.Therearealwaystwoparts:thedoughandthebutterblock.Bothneedtobechilledaftermixingandshapingsotheyarecoldandfirmbutstillflexible.Itisveryimportantthatthebutteranddougharesimilarintemperature,texture,andconsistencytoformevenlayers.
2.Standardlaminationplacesthebutterblockwithinthedough.Inverselamination(oftenusedforpuffpastrybecauseitresultsinaflakiertexture)hasthebutterontheoutsideandthedoughwithin.Theouterlayerisfoldedupovertheinnerlayertoencloseitcompletely,thenchilled.
3.Nowbeginthefolds.Rolloutthedough-and-butterpackagefromtoptobottomintoalongrectangle.Eachtimeyourolloutthedough,theseamsideshouldfaceuptomakesureitdoesn’tslipandslideasyouworkthedoughwiththerollingpin.
4.Dependingonwhatpastryyou’remaking,youwilleitherdoaletterfold(whichisfoldedinthirds,likealettergoingintoanenvelope)orabookfold(whichisfoldedinhalf,likeabook).
5.Usually,yourestthedoughintherefrigeratorforatleast30minutesbetweenfoldstoensurethebutterdoesn’tstarttowarmupandleakout.
ACKNOWLEDGMENTS
Abigthank-youto:
Myamazing teamat theBakery—and toNoah inparticular forhishardwork.
Thepeoplewho supportedme throughout theproductionof thisbook—Amy,Emily,Thomas,Sahinaz,Suet,Seth,andMike.
DanielBoulud(akaPapa).
Simon&Schuster.
Andmyfansfromaroundtheworldfortheirpassionandsupport.
DOMINIQUE ANSEL is the chef and owner of Dominique AnselBakery inNewYorkCityandaJamesBeardawardwinner for “OutstandingPastryChef.”In2013,DominiquewasnamedoneofBusinessInsider’s“MostInnovativePeopleUnderForty.”That same year, theDailyMail (UK) calledhim the “most feted pastry chef in the world.” Recently, he became one ofCrain’s“40UnderForty.”Hisbakeryhasgoneontowineverysinglecovetedaward, includingTimeOutNewYork’s “BestNewBakery,”andholdsZagat’shighestrankinginthecategory.
Prior to starting his own business, Dominique spent seven years at thevenerable French bakery Fauchon, and six years at Daniel, Daniel Boulud’sflagshipFrenchrestaurant.AstheexecutivepastrychefatDaniel,Dominiquewaspartof the team that led the restaurant to receive its first four-starNewYork Times rating, three Michelin stars, and the James Beard Foundation’s“OutstandingRestaurantoftheYearAward”in2010.
WWW.DOMINIQUEANSELBOOK.COM
MEETTHEAUTHORS,WATCHVIDEOSANDMOREAT
SimonandSchuster.comauthors.simonandschuster.com/Dominique-Ansel
INDEX
Anoteabouttheindex:Thepagesreferencedinthisindexrefertothepagenumbersintheprintedition.Clickingonapagenumberwill takeyouto theebook locationthatcorresponds to thebeginningof thatpage in the print edition. For a comprehensive list of locations of anyword or phrase, use your readingsystem’ssearchfunction.
Note:Pagenumbersinitalicsrefertoillustrations.
A
advancedrecipes,183–231AngryEgg,189–92,189At-HomeCronutTMPastry,201–4,201BakedAlaska,226–31,226Dominique’sKouignAmanns(DKA),193–96,193GingerbreadPinecone,219–25,219IbéricoandMahónCroissant,209–13,209MagicSoufflé,197–200,197SweetPotatoMontBlanc,214–18,214
agar:ChocolateCaviar,185–87AlmondBiscuit,141,142–44
BakedAlaska,87,226–31,226AngryEgg,28–29,28–29,189–92,189AppleMarshmallow,100–101,100–101,162–64,162apples:
AppleTartTatin,70,71,126–28,126CaramelApples,71,126–28,126GreenAppleSorbet,226–31
ApricotCompote,166–68Arlette,90,91,179–82,179At-HomeCronutTMPastry,42–43,42–43,44–45,201–4,201Aun(friend),59
B
BakedAlaska,86,87,226–31,226BakedScrambledEggs,151–53beeswax,forcannelémolds,4,134,135beginnerrecipes,109–32
AppleTartTatin,126–28,126ChocolatePecanCookies,112–13,112HotChocolate,110–11,110
MarshmallowChicks,121–23,121MiniMadeleines,114-15,114MiniMe’s,116–17,116PopcornChouquettes,118–20,118PurpleTart,129–32,129VanillaIceCream,124–25,124
biscuit:AlmondBiscuit,141,142–44Pear-NutmegBiscuit,220–25
BlackandBluePavlova,22,23,154–57,154blackberries:
BlackandBluePavlova,23,154–57,154BlackberryPastryCream,129–32PurpleTart,89,129–32,129
blowtorch:forBakedAlaska,231forbrûlée,144
BlueberryCompote,155–57BlueberryMeringueShell,23,154,155–57Boulud,Daniel,ix,20breadflour(tip),180brioche:
OrangeBlossomBrioche,197–200,197PerfectLittleEggSandwich,52,150–53,150
brûlée,143–44butter:
Arlette,179–82,179ButterBlock,179–82,194,202–3,210–11folding(tip),180
C
Calvados:BakedAlaska,226–31CalvadosSyrup,227,229cannelé:
CannelédeBordeaux,5,134–36,134thecannelétest,4–5coppermoldsfor,135
caramel:CaramelApples,71,126–28,126CaramelGlaze,145,146–49CaramelIceCream,227–30CaramelizedHazelnuts,169–70,169CaramelizedPeanuts,145,146–49CaramelizedPopcorn,118–19,118CaramelizedSabléBreton,227–31“dry”(tip),122SoftCaramel,146–49
SoftCaramel(withfleurdesel),121–23“wet”(tip),122
cereal:ChristmasMorningCereal,30,31,169–70,169Champagne:
Champagne-ChocolateGanache,207Champagne-ChocolateGlaze,208PinkChampagneMacarons,158–61,158RoséChampagneGanache,158–61
cheating,temptation,4–5cheese:
IbéricoandMahónCroissant,68,69,209–13,209PerfectLittleEggSandwich,52,150–53,150
cheesecake:CheesecakeMousse,66,141–44,141Cotton-SoftCheesecake,66,67,141–44,141
chocolate:AngryEgg,28–29,28–29,189–92,189Champagne-ChocolateGanache,207Champagne-ChocolateGlaze,208ChocolateCaviarTart,98–99,98,184–88,184ChocolateDécor,219–25ChocolateFeuilletine,176–78ChocolateGanache,146–47,197–200ChocolatePecanCookies,14,16–17,112–13,112ChocolateSabléCrust,184–88ChocolateSoufflé,197,198–200chocolatewave,64ChristmasMorningCereal,30,31,169–70,169DarkChocolateGanache,220–25DarkChocolateMousse,145–49,145Eastereggs,24–27HotChocolate,106,107,110–11,110MagicSoufflé,40,41,197–200,197MarshmallowChicks,121,122–23meltinginmicrowave(tip),170MilkChocolateCereal,169–70,169MilkChocolateShell,163–64PralineFeuilletine,220–22RoséChampagneGanache,158–61“seeding”(tip),170soufflés,40tempering,242,243
chouquettes:PopcornChouquettes,72–73,72–73,118–20,118ChouxCrust,137–40ChristmasMorningCereal,30,31,169–70,169cinnamon:
CinnamonGanache,219–25CinnamonMarshmallow,162–64CinnamonSugar,180–82SmokedCinnamonIceCream,226–30
CitrusMarmalade,214–16cocoa,seechocolatecoffee:WhippedCoffeeGanache,184–88compotes:
ApricotCompote,166–68BlueberryCompote,155–57
cookies,15,16Arlette,90,91,179–82,179ChocolatePecanCookies,14,16–17,112–13,112SabléBretonCookies,126–28,214–18
Cotton-SoftCheesecake,66,67,141–44,141cream:
At-HomeCronutTMPastry,201–4,201CaramelIceCream,227–30Champagne-ChocolateGanache,207CheesecakeMousse,66,141–44,141ChocolateCaviar,185–88ChocolateGanache,197–200CinnamonGanache,219–25DarkChocolateGanache,220–25DarkChocolateMousse,145–49,145GingerCream,219–25LemonGanache,154–57LimeMousse,103,171–75,171PeanutButterCream,145–49,145RoséChampagneGanache,158–61SweetPotatoMousse,185,187VanillaChantillyCream,185,187,214,215–17VanillaIceCream,124–25,124VanillaRoseGanache,205VanillaWhippedGanache,137–40WhippedCoffeeGanache,184–88whippedcreamstability(tip),143WhippedLemonGanache,206whipping(tip),138
creampuffs:religieuse,,54–55VanillaReligieuse,54–55,137–40,137
creativeideas,94AppleMarshmallow,94,100–101ChocolateCaviarTart,94,98–99gingerbreadpinecones,96“LimeMeUp”Tart,94,102
croissant:CroissantDough,209–12IbéricoandMahónCroissant,68,69,209–13,209
CronutTMpastry,42–43,44At-HomeCronutTMPastry,42–43,44–45,201–4,201
curds:LimeCurd,171–75
PassionFruitCurd,165–68currants:PoachedPlumsandCurrants,129–31custard,cooking,234,235
D
Daniel(restaurant),ix,15,20,34Didier(macaronchef),10Dominique’sKouignAmanns(DKA),36–37,36–37,38–39,39,193–96,193dough:
At-HomeCronutTMPastryDough,201–4Brioche,150–53ChocolateSabléCrust,184–88ChouxCrust,137–40CroissantDough,209–12DKA,36–37,193–96laminating(tip),194OrangeBlossomBrioche,40,197–200overmixing(tip),113PâteàChoux,118–20,236,237proofing(tip),151PuffPastryDough,179–82resting,relaxing(tips),181,182SabléBretonCookies,126–28testing(tips),151,152VanillaSabléTartShells,129,130–32“windowpanetest”(tip),151
E
Eastereggs,24,28–29eggs:
AngryEgg,28–29,29,189–92,189BakedAlaska,87,226,226–30BakedScrambledEggs,52,150,151–53BlackberryPastryCream,129–32BlueberryMeringueShell,23,154,155–57custard,234,235eggwash,119,151,210MacaronShells,158–61,158MagicSoufflé,197–201,197MiniMe’s,116–17,116forPâteàChoux(tip),120PerfectLittleEggSandwich,52,53,150–53,150tips,115VanillaIceCream,47,124–25,124whippedeggwhites(tip),142
eggshells:MarshmallowChicks,24–25,24–25,26,27,121–23,121
F
Fauchon,19,20feuilletine:
ChocolateFeuilletine,176–78PralineFeuilletine,220–22
flavor,75–76Arlette,76BakedAlaska,76,86MontBlanc,76,85purple,76,88–89S’Mores,76,80SunflowerTart,76,79
flour:breadflour(tip),180fondant:
CaramelGlaze,145,146–49GlazeandDecoration,54–55,137,138–40glazingfondant(note),208warming(tip),148
foodcoloring(tip),159FrozenS’Mores,80,81,82–83,83,176–78,176fruit:
ApricotCompote,166–68arranging(tip),132BlueberryCompote,155–57PoachedPlumsandCurrants,129–31,129poaching(tip),131SunflowerTart,76,78–79,79,165–68,165
G
ganaches,205–7Champagne-ChocolateGanache,207ChocolateGanache,146–47,197–200CinnamonGanache,219–25DarkChocolateGanache,220–25LemonGanache,154–57RoséChampagneGanache,158–61VanillaRoseGanache,205VanillaWhippedGanache,137–40WhippedCoffeeGanache,184–88whippedganache(tip),156WhippedLemonGanache,206
gelatin/gelatinsheets:note,137
removingexcessmoisturefrom(tip),143timetoset(tip),221
GingerbreadPinecone,96,97,219–25,219GingerCream,219–25glazes:
CaramelGlaze,145,146–49Champagne-ChocolateGlaze,208GlazeandDecoration,54–55,137,138–40glazingfondant(note),208LemonGlaze,208RoseGlaze,208
goldleaf:PinkChampagneMacarons,12–13,158,158–61grapeseedoil:ChocolateCaviar,185–87GreenAppleSorbet,227–30
H
ham:IbéricoandMahónCroissant,68,69,209–13,209hazelnutpaste:PralineFeuilletine,220–22hazelnuts:
CaramelizedHazelnuts,169–70,169ChristmasMorningCereal,30,31,169–70,169
honey:ApricotCompote,166–68FrozenS’Mores,80Marshmallow,121–23,177–78MiniMadeleines,114–15tip,115
HotChocolate,106,107,110–11,110
I
IbéricoandMahónCroissant,68,69,209–13,209icecream:
BakedAlaska,86,87,226–31,226CaramelIceCream,227–30FrozenS’Mores,80,81,82–83,176–78,176SmokedCinnamonIceCream,226–30VanillaIceCream,46,47,124–25,124
intermediaterecipes,133–82AppleMarshmallow,162–64,162Arlette,179–82,179BlackandBluePavlova,154–57,154CannelédeBordeaux,134–36,134ChocolateCaviarTart,184–88,184ChristmasMorningCereal,169–70,169Cotton-SoftCheesecake,141–44,141
FrozenS’Mores,176–78,176“LimeMeUp”Tart,171–75,171Paris–NewYork,145–49,145PerfectLittleEggSandwich,150–53,150PinkChampagneMacarons,158–61,158SunflowerTart,165–68,165VanillaReligieuse,137–40,137
ItalianMeringue,171–75
K
kouignamann,,36–37DKA,36–37,38–39,39,193–200,193
L
laminationtechnique,246–47,244–47laminationtip,194lemon:
LemonGanache,154–57LemonGlaze,208WhippedLemonGanache,206
lime:LimeCurd,171–75“LimeMeUp”Tart,102,103,171–75,171LimeMousse,103,171–75,171
M
macarons,10aging(tip),161MacaronShells,158–61,158PinkChampagneMacarons,11,12–13,158–61,158
madeleines,50MiniMadeleines,6,7,8,8–9,114–15,114
magic,68MagicSoufflé,40,41,197–200,197MapleSugar,208marmalade:CitrusMarmalade,214–16marshmallow:
AppleMarshmallow,162–64,162CinnamonMarshmallow,162–64FrozenS’Mores,81,82–83,176–78,176MarshmallowChicks,24–25,24–25,26,27,121–23,121
marzipan:“worms”inAppleMarshmallow,100–101,164meringues,22
AlmondBiscuit,141,142–44BlueberryMeringueShell,23,154,156–57ItalianMeringue,171–75MiniMe’s,58,59,60,60–61,116–17,116SwissMeringue,116–17,214–15tip,142
MilkChocolateCereal,169–70,169MilkChocolateShell,163–64MiniMadeleines,6,7,8,8–9,114–15,114MiniMe’s,58,59,60,60–61,116–17,116
ChristmasMorningCereal,169–70,169HotChocolate,106,110–11
MontBlanc:SweetPotatoMontBlanc,84,85,214–18,214mousse:
CheesecakeMousse,66,141–44,141DarkChocolateMousse,145–49,145LimeMousse,103,171–75,171SweetPotatoMousse,214,215–18
Mozart,WolfgangAmadeus,42
N
names:DominiqueAnselJr.,50madeleine,50MiniMe,59,60Paris–NewYork,56PerfectLittleEggSandwich,53religieuse,54–55
NewYork,author’sintroductionto,56nuts:
ChocolatePecanCookies,15,112–13,112ChristmasMorningCereal,30,169–70,169
O
OrangeBlossomBrioche,197–200,197OrangeSugar,208oven:
convection(tip),115conventional(tip),200
overmixing(tip),113
P
parchment,placing(tip),142
Paris–NewYork,56,57,145–49,145PassionFruitCurd,165–68pastrycream:BlackberryPastryCream,129–32PâteàChoux,118–20
basictechniques,236,237ChouxCrust,137–40Paris–NewYork,145,145–49PeanutButterCream,145–49tips,120VanillaReligieuse,137–40,137
Paulmier,Madeleine,50pavlova,22
BlackandBluePavlova,23,154–57,154PeanutButterCream,145–49,145peanuts:CaramelizedPeanuts,145,146–49Pear-NutmegBiscuit,220–25pecans:ChocolatePecanCookies,14,16–17,112–13,112pectin(tip),155Peeps,25PerfectLittleEggSandwich,52,53,150–53,150Picasso,Pablo,42PinkChampagneMacarons,11,12–13,158–61,158piping(tip),160pipingtechnique,238–39,239plums:PoachedPlumsandCurrants,129–31,129popcorn:
CaramelizedPopcorn,118–19,118PopcornChouquettes,72–73,72–73,118–20,118
poppyseeds:SunflowerTart,78–79,165–68,165porkfat,rendered,210PralineFeuilletine,220–22puffpastry:
Arlette,179–82,179inverse(tip),180
PurpleTart,88–89,89,129–32,129
Q
quenelle,188
R
re-creation:appletart,70arlette,91cheesecake,67chouquette,72–73
hamandcheesecroissant,68processof,64
religieuse,54–55VanillaReligieuse,54–55,137–40,137
rosewater:RoseGlaze,208VanillaRoseGanache,205
rum:CannelédeBordeaux,134–36,134SweetPotatoMousse,214,215–18
S
SabléBretonCookies,126–28CaramelizedSabléBreton,227–31SweetPotatoMontBlanc,214–18,214
SmokedCinnamonIceCream,226–30smokinggun(tip),178S’Mores,Frozen,80,81,82–83,83,176–78,176SoftCaramel,145,146–49
AppleMarshmallow,162–64ChocolateCaviarTart,184–88
SoftCaramel(withfleurdesel),121–23sorbet:GreenAppleSorbet,227–30soufflés:
breakingthesoufflélaws,40ChocolateSoufflé,197,198–200MagicSoufflé,40,41,197–200,197
spiceblend,166sticksorbranches,smoking,178sugars:
CinnamonSugar,180–82MapleSugar,208OrangeSugar,208VanillaSugar,208
SunflowerTart,78–79,79,165–68,165SweetPotatoMontBlanc,84,85,214–18,214SweetPotatoMousse,214,215–18SwissMeringue,116–17
BakedAlaska,226–31SweetPotatoMontBlanc,214–18,214
syrup:CalvadosSyrup,227,229pouringintoeggwhites(tip),160
T
tarts:
tarts:AppleTartTatin,70,71,126–28,126ChocolateCaviarTart,98–99,98,184–88,184“LimeMeUp”Tart,102,103,171–75,171PurpleTart,88–89,89,129–32,129SunflowerTart,78–79,79,165–68,165VanillaSabléTartShells,129,130–32
techniques,233–47cookingcustard,234,235laminating,244–47,246–47PâteàChoux,236,237piping,238–39,239temperingchocolate,242,243
temperature,testing(tip),135Tertulia(restaurant),NewYork,68tips:
agingmacarons,161arrangingfruit,132breadflour,180convectionoven,115conventionaloven,200“drycaramel,”,122eggs,115foldingbutter,180foodcoloring,159gelatinsheets,143gelatin,timetoset,221honey,115inversepuffpastry,180laminatingdough,194meltingchocolateinmicrowave,170meringue,142overmixing,113pâteàchoux,120pectin,155piping,160,239placingparchment,142poachingfruit,131pouringsyrup,160proofingdough,151restingdough,181,182“seeding”chocolate,170smokinggun,178testingproofeddough,152testingtemperature,135warmingfondant,148“wetcaramel,”,122whippedcreamstability,143whippedeggwhites,142whippedganache,156
whippingcream,138“windowpanetest,”,151
V
VanillaChantillyCream,185,187ChocolateCaviarTart,98,184–88,184SweetPotatoMontBlanc,84,214–18,214
VanillaIceCream,46,47,124–25,124BakedAlaska,87,226–31,226FrozenS’Mores,81,82–83,176–78,176
VanillaReligieuse,54–55,137–40,137VanillaRoseGanache,205VanillaSabléTartShells,129,130–32
“LimeMeUp”Tart,103,171,172–75SunflowerTart,165–68,165
VanillaSugar,208VanillaWhippedGanache,137–40
W
WhippedCoffeeGanache,184–88WhippedLemonGanache,206whitechocolate:
AngryEgg,189–92,189CinnamonGanache,219–25LemonGanache,154–57“LimeMeUp”Tart,103,171–75,171PeanutButterCream,145–49,145VanillaRoseGanache,205VanillaWhippedGanache,137–40WhippedCoffeeGanache,184–88WhippedLemonGanache,206WhiteChocolateDécor,174–75
“windowpanetest”(tip),151wonder,senseof,68
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InteriordesignbySuetYeeChongJacketdesignbyMarilynDantesJacketphotographbyThomasSchauerLibraryofCongressCataloging-in-PublicationDataAnsel,Dominique(Chef)DominiqueAnsel:thesecretrecipes/forewordbyDanielBoulud. pagescm1.Pastry.I.Boulud,Daniel.II.Title. TX773.A4562014 641.86’5—dc23
2014024377ISBN978-1-4767-6419-1ISBN978-1-47676421-4(ebook)