donkey beaded box pattern - beadflowers€¦ · hold your circle firm. row 2: pick up 2(a) and pass...

Donkey Beaded Box Pattern © Katie Dean 2020, www.beadflowers.co.uk

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Donkey Beaded Box Pattern

I designed this donkey as part of my beaded Nativity set. The entire set is comprised of

beaded boxes. Although you can forget the box idea and just make these elements as 3D

beaded ornaments if you wish. (I’ll explain how to do that in the pattern).

This is a VERY advanced beading project. You will be asked to follow instructions very

carefully, solve a lot of problems, use your own initiative and freeform some elements. You

must have completely mastered Peyote stitch in all its variations before you attempt this

project.

Materials

3g size 10/0 Delicas in DBM157 for the nose and belly areas (A)

12 size 10/0 Delicas in black DBM10 for the eyes, nostrils and hoofs (B)

18g size 10/0 Delicas in DBM111 for the main colour (C)

1g size 11/0 seed beads (any brand) in matte black for the mane and tail (D)

Your choice of beading thread – I used 4lb Fireline

Tools

Beading needle and scissors

Note: if you have made the rest of your Nativity set in 11/0 Delicas, you can use that size here,

but I don’t really recommend it otherwise. You would need about half the quantities of each

bead type, and you will need to use size 15/0 seed beads for your (D) beads.


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Important! Please read carefully before you start

This is a very advanced project, using 3D beading techniques that are not always possible to

diagram. I have given diagrams in as many places as possible, but I am assuming that you

are very competent in Peyote stitch and thoroughly understand the normal Peyote thread

paths. If you do need a reminder of any techniques, you can use this link:

https://www.myworldofbeads.com/category/learn-peyote-stitch/

I have also included a lot of detailed close-up photos. But you SHOULD NOT attempt to just

work from these. You need to follow the written instructions very closely. The photos are there

just as a guide to help you. They are not intended as step-by-step images. You should also

view all the photos as different angles may clarify areas that you’re struggling to understand.

You should expect to come up against problems or areas that you find tricky, so use your

problem-solving skills to work these out. This is what advanced beading is, and it may not

necessarily reflect how long you’ve been beading, or how many projects you’ve done in the

past. I’m afraid I’m not able to offer any additional assistance with this project.

You will also find this easier if you are already familiar with some of my simpler beaded boxes.

You are going to be using techniques for the structure that are commonly used in those. So,

if you begin this project and discover you’re not quite up to the task yet, don’t despair. Just

take a break, improve your skills, try some simpler boxes, and come back to this when you

have more confidence and experience.

I also recommend that you read through the entire pattern before you begin beading. You

won’t understand all the steps, but this will give you a sense of the general ‘shape’ of the

project. So, that should help you to avoid too many nasty surprises along the way.

Finally, please respect my copyright. This pattern is for your personal use only. You may not

reproduce or share any part of it in any format. If you need to take a photocopy for your

personal use, that is permissible, but you may not make copies to share with beading friends.

If they wish to enjoy this project, please direct them to my website to purchase their own

pattern.

You are welcome to sell finished items that you make from these instructions, but please credit

me as the designer. Similarly, if you post images of your work on this project on social media,

please credit me as the designer.

Thank you for respecting these copyright rules and keeping ‘Planet Bead’ a safe and happy

place for all.

And, if you do want to make the rest of the Nativity

elements, you can find the patterns here:

https://beadflowers.co.uk/beads/patterns/choose-

materials/seed-beads/beaded-nativity-pattern-beaded-

boxes/

https://www.myworldofbeads.com/category/learn-peyote-stitch/

https://beadflowers.co.uk/beads/patterns/choose-materials/seed-beads/beaded-nativity-pattern-beaded-boxes/




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The Box Lid This is made in separate sections. First, you are going to make the face. Next, make the neck

and complete the head. Then, make the top of the back. This collection of parts will form the

top of your lid. Or, if you aren’t making the box, then they will form the top section of the

donkey. If you are making the box, you will also need to make the base for the lid.

So, I am going to guide you through each section. You don’t need to follow my order – you

can make the individual components in a different order and join them after, but don’t get

confused if you do this!

The face You are going to be working tubular Peyote, but you will be using some different increase

techniques to shape this section. So, please read and follow the instructions very carefully. I

have included diagrams to help guide you, where possible. You should be very competent in

tubular Peyote before you begin this.

Work with a comfortable length of thread and join new threads whenever you need to.

Row 1: Pick up 3(A) and, leaving a tail that is just

long enough to stitch in later, pass through all the

beads again to form them into a circle. Knot your

working and tail threads (double knot is fine) to

hold your circle firm.

Row 2: Pick up 2(A) and pass through the next

bead in your circle. Repeat twice to complete the

row, and step up through the first (A) added in this

row. Total 6 (A) beads.

Row 3: Pick up 1(B) and pass through the next

bead from your previous row. Pick up 1(A) and

pass through the next bead from your previous

row. Pick up 1(B) and pass through the next bead

from your previous row. Pick up 1(A) and pass

through the next bead from your previous row. Pick

up 1(A) and pass through the next bead from your

previous row. Pick up 1(A) and pass through the

next bead from your previous row, then step up

through the first bead added in this row. Total 4(A),

2(B) beads.

Rows 4-6: Stitch three rows of tubular Peyote with 6(A) beads in each row (i.e. 1 bead per

stitch). Remember your step up at the end of every row.

Rows 7 & 8: Stitch two rows of tubular Peyote using your (C) beads. Each row will contain 6

beads and a step up at the end.


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Row 9: This is your first shaping row, so you will

be making some increases. Please check carefully

to ensure you line them up as instructed.

Add 1(C) in EACH of the first THREE stitches.

Then, add 2(C) in each of the next three stitches.

These pairs of beads should be sitting in the

spaces directly above your nostrils (the (B) beads

from row 3) AND the space between.

Row 10: Add 1(C) in each stitch. Each time you

come to a pair of beads, you should pass through

BOTH beads. In effect, you are working a two-drop

thread path for that portion of the row. So, this row

will contain a total of 6(C) beads. Step up through

the first bead added in this row.

Row 11: Add a total of 9(C) beads. Your placement

will mean you add 1(C) above the single (C) beads

from row 9 and 2(C) above each of the pairs of

beads from row 9. Step up through the first bead

added in this row.

Row 12: Repeat row 10 (i.e. add a single bead in each space, passing through BOTH beads

in a pair when that is appropriate). Total 6 (C) beads. Remember to step up.

Row 13: This row contains a total of 13(C) beads.

Your bead order should be 1(C), 3(C), 3(C), 3(C),

1(C), 2(C). Step up through the first (C).

But check: you should have 3(C) in the each of the

spaces above each of your pairs of beads from row

11.

Then, your 2(C) should be making an increase in

the centre bottom of the face (bearing in mind, the

two nostrils are sat on the top half).

So, if you need to add your beads in a different

order to achieve this, please do so. The bead placement is critical for the shaping here.


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Row 14: In this row you are going to add a total of

10(C) beads. You will pick up 1(C) in each stitch.

Every time you get to your groups of 3 beads from

the previous row, you will pick up 1(C), pass

through the first bead in the group of 3. Pick up

1(C) and pass through the third bead in the group

of 3.

When you get to the pair of beads in the centre

bottom, you need to add 1(C) between the pair (a

standard Peyote increase).

Row 15: This is a straight row. So, simply add 1(C) in each stitch, giving you a total of 10(C)

beads in the row. And remember your step up.

Row 16: In this row, you are going to add the eyes,

and also continue shaping the top of the head.

So, in my placement, I added 1(B), 1(C), 2(C),

1(C), 1(B), 1(C), 1(C), 1(C), 1(C), 1(C), and

stepped up.

The 2(C) pair of beads should be sitting in the top

centre, above the previous central increases. The

eyes - (B) beads – should be sitting in alignment

above the previous side increases, also directly

above the nostrils. So, if you need to alter your

bead order to get the placement right, please do.

Row 17: In this row, you will add a total of 11(C) beads. So, that will be 1(C) in each stitch.

When you reach the pair of beads from the previous row, you should pass through BOTH

beads. Remember to step up at the end of the row.

Row 18: In this row, you will add a total of 13(C)

beads. You are going to add 3(C) in the space

above the pair at the top (this is the same increase

sequence you used for the earlier shaping).

You should add 2(C) in the central space at the

bottom. You should find these beads are sitting

directly over the 2(C) from row 13 at the bottom.

In each of the other spaces, you will add 1(C) – that

should be a total of 4 on each side of the head.

Remember to step up.


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Row 19: This row will contain a total of 13(C). You

need to add 2(C) between the pair of beads at the

bottom (i.e. pass through the first bead in the pair,

pick up 2(C), pass through the second bead in the

pair).

When you reach the 3 beads at the top, you need

to pick up 1(C), pass through the first bead in the

group of three, pick up 1(C), pass through the last

bead in the group.

Add a single bead in each of the remaining

stitches/spaces, and remember your step up.

Row 20: This row will contain a total of 14(C) beads. You need to add 2(C) between the pair

of beads at the bottom, as you did in the previous row. Add 1(C) in all the remaining stitches.

Remember to step up.

Rows 21 and 22: Add two straight rows, so you

will have a single (C) in each stitch, (including 1(C)

between your pair of beads in row 21). Each of

these rows contains 14 (C) beads and a step up.

You can finish your thread at the end of row 22.

Your donkey’s face should now look like the

photos.

The Neck You are now going to make a short Peyote tube for the neck, then join this onto the face

section and fill in the back of the head.

Again, work with a comfortable length of thread and join new thread if you need to.


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Pick up 20(C). Leave a tail thread that you can just

stitch in later. Pass through all the beads again to

form them into a circle. This will form the first two

rows of your Peyote tube.

Stitch four more rows of tubular Peyote, so you

have a total of six rows. Each of these four new

rows will contain 10(C) and a step up.

Now, begin another row of tubular Peyote. Add

1(C) in each of the first four stitches. Then, use the

next two stitches to zip your neck onto the two

bottom beads from the donkey’s face section.

Continue to add another 4(C) to complete your

row. Then step up.

See the photo to the left.

Over the remaining rows, you are going to fill in the area at the back of the head and neck.

You will do this by working in tubular Peyote around that area, using decreases to shape

everything inwards at the end.

Row 1: Add 1(C) in each of the first two stitches. You should now be at the gap between the

head and neck. So, pick up 3(C) and pass from the neck bead you’re exiting, into the first bead

on the head.

Continue to add 1(C) in each stitch as you work around the head. When you get back to the

gap between head and neck on the other side, add 3(C) across that gap. Then, continue to

add 1(C) in each stitch to the end of the row, and step up.

This row should contain a total of 23(C) beads.

Row 2: Add 1(C) in each stitch, BUT, for each of your groups of 3(C) at the joins, you will pick

up 1(C), pass through the first bead in the group of three. Pick up 1(C), pass through the third

bead in the group of three.

This should push the middle bead in the group downwards to neaten the head/neck join.

However, you may need to freeform around these areas to pull your beads in neatly – possibly

even to add an extra bead if you have any gapping. This is entirely up to you, so use your skill

to create a neat finish.

This entire row should contain 19 beads. Remember to step up at the end.

Rows 3 & 4: Stitch two straight rows. Each will contain 19(C) and a step up.

Row 5: In this row, you will work in tubular Peyote, but on each neck join, you should make a

decrease (i.e. pass through two beads). You should find this natural as your beads will be

pulling in towards one another in any case. This row should contain 17(C) and a step up.

The photo on the next page shows how the neck and head join is coming together at this point.

So, you can see how the decreasing pattern is working.


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Rows 6 & 7: Stitch two more straight rows of tubular Peyote. Each will contain 17(C) and a

step up.

Row 8: This is another decrease row. So, again, pass through the two beads to make a

decrease on each side of the neck. As before, this should happen naturally. Your row will

contain 15(C) and a step up.

Row 9: Stitch a straight row. This will contain 15(C) and a step up.

Row 10: In this row, you need to add single beads all around, BUT make a decrease (i.e. pass

through 2 beads) at the centre top of the head. So, this row will contain 14(C) and a step up.

Row 11: In this row, make your decrease on each side of the head/neck join. Add a single (C)

in all the other stitches. So, you should add a total of 12 (C) beads. Remember the step up.

Row 12: Repeat row 11, so you will again decrease on the head/neck join on each side, but

add single beads for the rest of the row. This will be a total of 10(C) and a step up.

Row 13: In this row, you should decrease on each side of the head/neck join AND in the top

centre. So, all these decreases will be lining up with decreases from previous rows. This will

give you a total of 7(C) in the row. Again, remember to step up.

Row 14: This is another decrease row – you should decrease in each of the same three places

as in your last row. So, this will really pull the back

of the head inwards. This row will contain 4(C) and

a step up.

Row 15: Add 1(C) in the top space, decrease (i.e.

pass through 2 beads) in each of the side spaces,

and join these onto the new (C) you just added.

This will all feel quite intuitive to do and should

create a neat finish to the back of the head, as you

see in the photo.


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Now, you are going to add the ears. So, weave up

through the head to the position where you want to

place the first ear.

I’ve used a red cross to give you a rough idea in

the photo. But you can position yours wherever

you think best. Again, this is a time for you to use

your own initiative.

To make the ear, you should add 9 rows of odd

count Peyote, extending off the head. Your first

row will contain 1(A), the second row 2(C), 1(A) in

the third row, 2(C) in the fourth row, etc. Your final

(ninth) row should be 1(C).

See the photo.

Weave back down to the base of the ear. Now,

stitch an identical ‘backing’ for the ear. Again, work

in odd count Peyote, using the same beads in the

head. But this time your nine rows will all be

stitched in (C) beads.

See the photo.

Fold the two layers together and join up/down the

two sides and across the top. This will give your

ear the stability to stand upright from the head.

Then, weave across the head and add the other

ear, using the same technique. Make sure it is

positioned in the equivalent place to your first ear,

so you have an even finish.

Finally, weave through to the centre of the head,

just in front of the ears. You are going to add the

donkey’s mane. So, using your (D) beads, add

loops of beads in a line running over the top of the

head and down the back of the neck. Again, this is

freeform, so it’s up to you how you create the effect

of the mane. When you’re happy with it, finish your

thread securely and your head is complete.


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The Back Now you can make the top of your lid – the back of the donkey. You are going to be working

in a variation of circular Peyote to create a rectangle with rounded ends. This will join onto the

base of the neck, as you will see. So, follow the instructions carefully.

Work with a comfortable length of thread and join new thread whenever you need to.

Rows 1 & 2: Use a stop bead and leave a tail thread that is just long enough to stitch in later.

Pick up 17(C).

Rows 3-5: Now stitch three rows in odd count Peyote. Row 3 will contain 9 beads, row 4 will

be 8 beads, row 5 will be 9 beads.

Row 6: Begin working back along the row, so you

will add 8 (C) beads to take you to the end of the

row.

Now, take the head, and pass through the middle

three beads at the back of the head. So, this will

be two ‘up’ beads from your final row AND the

‘down’ bead that sits between them. From here,

pass into the end bead on the other edge of your

odd count strip.

Add 8 (C) to take you along the other edge to the end. Then, pick up 3(C), pass through the

bead on the top edge and step up through the first bead you added in this row.

(Note: if you find this difficult to understand, please pause here, and make the lid base from

the next section. That uses the same technique, but adds the 3 beads on both ends, instead

of the neck join. So, that will show and explain the thread paths more clearly.)

Row 7: Add 1(C) in each of the first 7 stitches. You

should now be at the point where the body and

head/neck join.

Pick up 3(C) and pass into the first available ‘up’

bead on the head/neck. Add 1(C) in each of the

next two stitches.

Add 2(C) in each of the next THREE stitches.

These should be placed around the front of the

neck.

Add 1(C) in each of the next two stitches, and you should be back at the join between the body

and head on the other side. So, add 3(C) in this stitch.

Add 1(C) in each of the next 7 stitches to take you along the other side of the body.

Add 2(C) in each of the final THREE stitches and step up. This should be a total of 36 beads.

Row 8: In this row, you need to add 1(C) in between each pair of beads on the ends. Also,

when you get to the groups of 3 at the joins between body and neck, you should pick up 1(C),

pass through the first bead in the group, pick up 1(C) and pass through the third bead in the

group.

So, you should add a total of 34(C) in this row. Step up at the end.


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Rows 9 & 10: Add two straight rows, with 1(C) in each stitch. This should be a total of 34

beads in each row. Remember your step up at the end of row 9.

This completes the top half of your lid. So, it should now be looking like this:

Lid Base If you don’t want to turn your donkey into a box, then you don’t need to make this part. Just

move on to the box base.

This lid base is made using the rectangle technique with hexagon shaping. In the diagrams

for this section, I have shown you the technique’s thread path. But you will notice that the bead

count for the central odd count Peyote section is different in the diagrams to the instructions I

am giving you. So, please just use the diagrams to help you follow the thread path. Follow the

instructions carefully for your bead counts in each row.

Again, work with a comfortable length of thread and join new thread wherever you need to.

Rows 1-5: Use a stop bead, and leave a tail thread that is just long enough to stitch in later.

Pick up 25(C) to form your first two rows of odd count Peyote.

Then work in odd count Peyote, adding 13(C) in row 3, 12(C) in row 4, 13(C) in row 5.

Row 6: Stitch along the first side, adding 12(C).

Then, pick up 3(C) and pass through the end bead

on the other side.

Add 12(C) along this side of your rectangle shape.

Pick up 3(C) and pass through the end bead from

the other side, then step up through the first bead

added in this step (red arrow). Total 30 beads.


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Row 7: *Add 1(C) in each stitch along the long

side. When you get to the corner, pick up 2(C) and

pass through the first bead in your group of three.

Pick up 2(C) and pass through the third bead in

your group of three.

Pick up 2(C) and pass through the first bead in the

next side.

Repeat from * to complete the row, then step up

(red arrow in diagram). This row should contain 34

beads.

Row 8: Add 1(C) in each stitch, working all the way

around the shape. So, each time you get to a pair

of beads, you will add 1(C) between the pair, as

shown in the diagram.

At the end of the row, remember your step up (red

arrow).

Your row should contain a total of 34 beads.

Row 9: Add 1(C) in each stitch, working all the way around this row.

This should be a total of 34 beads. Step up at the end of the row.

Now, zip your base onto the bottom of your lid. So, row 9 on the base will zip to row 10 on the

lid. Make sure you line the corners up correctly, and everything should fit together nicely.

Work your way around to the first bead in the long edge in row 9 of the lid base. Add a stitch-

in-the-ditch row just along this first long side – it should be a total of 12 beads. You will use

this later for the hinge of your box, so you can see that take shape in the photos at the end of

the pattern.


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Tail You will add the tail to the back centre of the lid

base. So, join a new thread securely in this area

(or weave through to there if you wish).

Pick up 5(C), 7(D), then pass back up through the

5(C) and back into the lid.

You can repeat the thread path through the tail if

you wish, but don’t pull your thread too tight as you

want it to hang naturally.

This completes the box lid, so finish your thread securely.

The Box Base This uses the same techniques that you have been using for the donkey’s back and lid base.

You will then add on the legs and tail. These are slightly freeform, but I will explain the structure

when we get there. Finally, use the hinge to join the lid onto the base.

In this section, as before, work with a comfortable length of thread and join new thread

wherever you need to.

Rows 1-9: Follow rows 1-9 of the lid base BUT, you need to add in the colouring for your

donkey’s belly.

So, in your first string of beads, you will pick up 13(C), 12(A).

As you work rows 1-6, you will continue to add (C) beads in that half of the strip, and (A) beads

in the other half of the strip. Your 3 beads on one end will be (A) and on the other, will be (C).

In row 7, you will use the (A) beads ONLY in the central pair at the front. Use (C) for the rest

of the row.

In row 8, you will use (A) beads for the 3 single beads that sit before, between, and after the

pair of (A) from the previous row.

This sets up the colouring for the remaining rows.

Row 10: You are going to add another increase

cycle. So, in this row, you will add a pair of beads

in each of the four corners, plus the central corner

at each end. This will be a total of 40 beads. For

the colouring, you should use (A) beads for the

central pair on the end, and the single bead on

either side of it – see the diagram.

Note: once again, the diagrams here do not show

the full bead count along the shape, but they will

show you the colouring and the thread paths.


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Row 11: In this row, you will add 1 bead in each

stitch. So, as with your previous increase cycle,

this will mean 1 bead between each of your pairs

of beads.

Again, maintain the colouring, as shown in the

diagram.

Your row should contain a total of 40 beads and

remember your step up.

Rows 12-21: Stitch 10 straight rows, keeping the

colouring you have set up. These rows will pull the

sides upwards to form the box sides. Each row will

contain a total of 40 beads. (The odd numbered

rows will each have 3(A), the even numbered rows

will each have 4(A) beads).

Row 22: Add one final straight row, this time using all (C) beads. Again, this should have a

total of 40 beads. At the end of the row, do a check. Your corners should all have a ‘space’

(down bead). This will allow you to make the shaping for the lip, next.

Note: if you are not making a box, then you can skip rows 23 to zipping up. Instead, move on

and add the legs, then zip the bottom to the top section to complete your donkey.

Row 23: In this row, you should make a decrease (pass through 2 beads) in each of the six

corners. So, you will be adding a total of 34(C) beads. Step up at the end of the row.

Rows 24 & 25: Stitch two straight rows using all

(C) beads. This will pull upwards into a wall again

– this will become the inner wall of your lip. Each

row should contain 34 beads. Don’t forget the step

up!

At the end of these rows, you should have a ‘space’

(down bead) in each corner, as you see in the

photo.


15

Row 23a: Weave back down to exit from a bead in

row 22. It is easiest to see this at the front of the

box - this row will be your first row of all (C) beads.

Add a stitch-in-the-ditch row onto row 22.

Remember, each time you reach a corner where

your pairs of beads are pulled in together, you

need to add a bead between the pair. So, you

should end up with a total of 40(C) beads in this

row. At the end of the row, step up to exit from the

first bead you added in this row.

Row 24a: Add another row on top of row 23a. This should pull up around the outside of the

little inner wall. This row will also contain 40(C) and a step up.

Zipping up: Now, you need to zip up the top two rows of your two walls. Note: the outer wall

contains 40 beads, while the inner wall contains 34

beads. So, every time you reach a corner, you will

need to make a decrease in the outer wall. This

means, passing from the bead before the corner

space in the inner wall, through BOTH beads in the

corner in the outer wall, then into the next bead in

the inner wall. So, the two outer wall beads will pull

in together to sit in the corner space in the inner

wall.

Next, you are going to add the legs. You can either weave back down through the beads on

the body, or join a new thread for this part.

Once again, this section requires you to use your own initiative to make things look as you

wish. I have done my best to explain what I did, but if there are elements that you don’t fully

understand, just freeform to make things look ‘right’.


16

Front legs You are going to position the front leg as shown in the photo. So, you will begin by adding a

stitch-in-the-ditch section of 7 beads (1(B) and 6(C) beads) to the bottom row of the box base

– this should be about row 11.

Working from your initial stitch-in-the-ditch row, keep adding Peyote to shape the leg as shown

in the diagram. I have labelled each bead with its row number, but it is up to you to work out

the thread paths to use. You will be using a mix of odd and even count turnarounds and also

decreasing/shaping at the end of the row. All these techniques are explained in the link I gave

you in the introduction, if you want to refresh your memory on anything. And, if you wish to

make up your own version, that’s fine – there’s no obligation to copy me exactly here.

This finished shape will stick out sideways from the bottom of your box, as shown (in the photo,

you are looking straight onto the bottom of the box).

Now, you are going to fold the leg up the side of

the box and anchor the top rows (rows 5-7) to the

side of the box. However, try and roll the leg a little,

so you give it some shape – a sense of being an

object sat alongside the box, not flat onto it. Again

– time to use your artistic licence here!

The photo shows the effect of what you are trying

to achieve. There isn’t any set technique for this.

You may find it easiest to weave around to the other side of the box – or join a new thread –

and add the other front leg.

By doing it at this point, you will be able to mirror your first leg, and also remember any little

‘tricks’ or freeform ‘fiddly bits’ you did to get the effect you want.

And, feel free to modify this in any way to improve upon the shaping I have suggested.


17

Back Legs The technique for the back legs is exactly the same. So, once again, decide on your

placement, add your stitch-in-the-ditch row, then shape the leg out following the photo and

diagram. As you will see, the back-leg shaping is a little different to the front. Note where the

hoof sits as well.

Again, roll/fold the back leg into position and

anchor the top of the shape to the side of the box.

Then repeat with your other back leg on the other

side.

As with the front legs, please modify things to suit what pleases you and what you find easiest

to do.

The Hinge The final step is to join your lid to the base. So, you will need to join a new thread (or weave

through your body) to exit from a bead in row 24 – the top row of your inner wall.

Simply zip along the long edge of the row 24 beads to the 12 hinge beads on the lid. Take

care to make sure you are joining the correct edge so that the donkey’s head will sit over the

belly colouring on the base.

When you are happy with the join, finish your thread securely and your donkey is complete.

donkey beaded box pattern - beadflowers€¦ · hold your circle firm. row 2: pick up 2(a) and pass...

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