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JOURNAL
03COLD PROCESS EMULSIFIERThe next generation cold process emulsifi er presented by OMNOVA
21SOLUTION FOR AGELESS BEAUTYActive Beauty, Solutions for ageless beauty presented by Givaudan
42CELL COMMUNICATIONThe cell communication, the heart of well-beingpresented by Solabia
52EMULSIFIERS Emulsifi ers are the key to aesthetics presented by Grolman and Acqdot Ltd
Content
3
Olivem® 2020
The next-generation cold process emulsifier
• Biomimetic• Based on olive oil chemistry• Provide hydration benefits• Sensorial modifier• High performance emulsifier for hot or cold processes• Thickener, stabilizer• Original, patent pending• Naturally-derived ingredient to ISO 16128-1:2016
Olivem® 2020: An Award-Winning Multi-functional Ingredient
Olivem® 2020 INCI: Ethylhexyl Olivate, Sodium Acrylates Copolymer, Polyglyceryl-4 Olivate
Olivem® 2020G INCI: Ethylhexyl Olivate, Sodium Acrylates Copolymer, Polyglyceryl-4 Oleate
Olivem® and Olivem® 2020 are registered trademarks of Hallstar Innovations Corp.
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Olivem® 2020 for Water Gels
Olivem® 2020: A Biomimetic Ingredient
CoconutOil
OliveOil
Healthy Skin Sebum
Short chain ≤C12; saturated >40% <5% <5%
Long chain C14-C18; saturated 25-35% 10-25% ≈40%
Long chain C14-C18; unsaturated 6.0-10% 60-85% ≈50%
Very few short chainsaturated fatty acidsunlike other naturaloils like in the Healthy skin sebum
Fatty acid compositions of triglycerides and free fatty acids in sebum depend on amount of triglycerides, and do not differ in presence or absence of acne vulgaris, Narifumi AKAZA,1,2 Hirohiko AKAMATSU,3 Shigeki NUMATA,2 Miyuki MATSUSUE,1
Yasuo MASHIMA,1 Masaaki MIYAWAKI,1 Shunji YAMADA,1 Akiko YAGAMI,2 Satoru NAKATA,1 Kayoko MATSUNAGA, THE JOURNAL OF DERMATOLOGY 2014; 41: 1069-1076
Olivem® and Olivem® 2020 are registered trademarks of Hallstar Innovations Corp.
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Internal test: 12 panelists – forearm MoistureMeterSC® - Delfin
All statistical differences are at least significant: p <0.05
Olivem® 2020: A Functional Naturals Ingredient Phase INCI Name [INN/USAN] (Other Information) Trade Name % Wt % Wt
Water (Aqua) (deionized) Up to 100 Up to 100Ethylhexyl Olivate, Sodium Acrylates Copolymer, Polyglyceryl- 4 Olivate
Olivem® 2020, Hallstar Italia 5,00 -
Glycerin 1,00 1,00
Other products - 5,00
A
significant: p <0.051,00 1,00
Other products - 5,00
Olivem® and Olivem® 2020 are registered trademarks of Hallstar Innovations Corp.
Olivem® 2020: A High-performing Gel Cream
Phase INCI Name [INN/USAN] (Other Information) % Wt % Wt
A
Water (Aqua) (deionized) Up to 100 Up to 100
Olivem® 2020 5,00 -
Other Product - 5,00
Water Gel Performance
Up to 100
Water Gel Performance
Olivem® and Olivem® 2020 are registered trademarks of Hallstar Innovations Corp.
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0
10
20
30
40
50
60
70
80APPEARANCE
SPREADABILITY
NO GREASY
RICH
NO TACKCUSHIONING
FRESHNESS
SKIN SOFTNESS
HYDRATATIONSENSATION
OLIVEM 2020
PRODUCT 1
Skin Feel: Olivem® 2020 in comparison with a functional alternative product
Internal test: 12 panelists
Olivem® 2020: A Sensorial Modifier
Phase INCI Name % Wt % WtDemin. Water Up to 100 Up to 100
Olivem® 2020 5,00 -
Glycerin 1,00 1,00
Product 1 - 5,00
A
Olivem® and Olivem® 2020 are registered trademarks of Hallstar Innovations Corp.
Olivem® 2020 Hydro Skin GelA simple water gel cream conceived to show Olivem ® 2020 sensorial properties and performance
Olivem® 2020viscosity builder,emulsifier and sensorial enhancer
soft and nice water
gel with a fresh and
rich skin feel
Olivem® and Olivem® 2020 are registered trademarks of Hallstar Innovations Corp.
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By applying Activating Serum, you enhance the authentic beauty and health of your skin...
DIAM Oléoactif® : minimizes the wrinkles and fills the signs of time
Olivem® 2020: Cold process emulsifier with unique texture
LIFE Oléobooster®:supplies strong energizing action
EPILOBIUM Oléoactif® :smooths the skin and moisturizes the skin
….and enjoy a refreshing light skin feel
Eurol® BT: Contrasts premature skin aging
Activating Serum
Phase INCI Name [INN/USAN] (Other Information) Trade Name % Wt Function
A
Water (Aqua) (deionized) up to 100 Volatile Carrier
Chamomilla Recutita (Matricaria) Flower Water 5,00 Active Ingredient
Propanediol 3,00 HumectantTrisodium Ethylenediamine Disuccinate (37% active) 0,60 Chelating Agent
B
Ethylhexyl Olivate, Sodium Acrylates Copolymer, Polyglyceryl-4 Olivate
Olivem® 2020, Hallstar Italia* 1,75 Multifunctional
Cold Emulsifier
Brassica Campestris Seed Oil, Polyglyceryl-3 Diisostearate, Stevia Rebaudania Extract, Cistus Monspeliensis Extract
LIFE Oléobooster®, Hallstar 0,50 Active Ingredient
Cocos Nucifera Oil, Oak Root Extract DIAM Oléoactif®, Hallstar 0,50 Active Ingredient
Helianthus Annuus Seed Oil, Epilobium Angustifolium Flower/Leaf/Stem Extract
EPILOBIUM Oléoactif®, Hallstar 0,50 Active Ingredient
Ethylhexyl IsononanoateHallStar® Octyl Isononanoate, Hallstar
0,75 Emollient / Slip Aid
Lecithin, Tocopherol, Ascorbyl Palmitate, Citric Acid 0,05 Antioxidant Agent
COlea Europaea (Olive) Leaf Extract, Water Eurol® BT, Hallstar
Italia 0,30 Multifunctional Active Ingredient
Parfum a.n. PerfumePreservative a.n. Preservative
Olivem® and Olivem® 2020 are registered trademarks of Hallstar Innovations Corp.
Fight your spots with this magic sensory complexion with a subtle cushioning effect!
DIAM Oléoactif® : Anti-inflammatory properties to reduce skin redness
Olivem® 2020: Cold process emulsifier with uniquecushioning effect
BRIGHT Oléoactif® :Natural brightening, whitening and anti-dark spot active!
Eurol® WHT: Anti-dark spot and anti-inflammatory action for the water phase!
Phase INCI Name [INN/USAN] (Other Information) Trade Name % Wt Function
A Ethylhexyl Olivate, Sodium AcrylatesCopolymer, Polyglyceryl-4 Olivate
Olivem® 2020, Hallstar Italia 5,00 Emulsifier
B
Cocos Nucifera Oil, Oak Root Extract/ Cocos Nucifera Oil, Quercus Suber Bark Extract, OakRoot Extract
DIAM Oléoactif®, Hallstar 1,00 Active Ingredient
Brassica Campestris Seed Oil, GlycyrrhizaGlabra Root Extract, Polyglyceryl-3 Diisostearate, Althaea Officinalis Root Extract, Oryza Sativa Bran Extract
BRIGHT Oléoactif®, Hallstar
1,00 Active Ingredient
Glycerin, Water, Olea Europaea (Olive) Leaf Extract, Arctostaphylos Uva Ursi Leaf Extract
Eurol® WHT, Hallstar Italia 1,00 Active Ingredient
CGlycerin 1,00 HumectantWater (Aqua) (deionized) Water 90,00 Volatile CarrierPreservative a.n. Preservative
Spot Action Bouncy Gel
Olivem® and Olivem® 2020 are registered trademarks of Hallstar Innovations Corp.
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Olivem® 2020 for Oil in Water emulsions
Olivem® 2020: A High-Performing Emulsifier Performance 2% Olivem® 2020 with OilPerformance 2% Olivem® 2020 with Oil
Stability was evaluated using a centrifuge test
Olivem® and Olivem® 2020 are registered trademarks of Hallstar Innovations Corp.
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This light gel-cream formula works to delay all signs of aging caused by loss of moisture. It refreshes and cools the skin, reduces the appearance of fine lines, improves skin density and helps to increase moisture for deep hydration and skin elasticity.
Olivem® 2020 Cold process emulsifier with unique texture
Eurol® BT Multifunctional active ingredient: anti-irritating, anti-inflammatory, skin elasticizing and anti-acne
Sensolene ®
Natural elasticity restorer
LIFT ® Oléoactif, Biochemica® Camellia Tea Oil Brings a range of benefits to the skin includinganti-aging and rejuvenating
Lift Me Gel Cream
Phase INCI Name [INN/USAN] (Other Information) Trade Name % Wt Function
A
Water (Aqua) (deionized) up to 100 Volatile CarrierGlycerin 3,00 HumectantBetain 0,40 Active Ingredient
Olea Europaea (Olive) Leaf Extract, Water Eurol® BT, Hallstar Italia 0,25 Multifunctional Active Ingredient
Trisodium Ethylenediamine Disuccinate (37% active) 0,30 Chelating Agent
B
Camellia Oleifera Seed Oil Biochemica® Camellia Tea Oil, Hallstar 2,50 Emollient
Ethylhexyl Olivate Sensolene®, Hallstar Italia* 2,00 Multifunctional Lipid
Carthamus Tinctorius (Safflower) Seed Oil, Spilanthes Acmella Flower/ Leaf/ Stem Extract, Astragalus Membranaceus Root Extract, Ubiquinone, Tocopherol
LIFT Oléoactif®, Hallstar 1,00 Active Ingredient
Bisabolol 1,00 Active IngredientPreservative a.n. PreservativeLecithin, Tocopherol, Ascorbyl Palmitate, Citric Acid 0,05 Antioxidant Agent
Ethylhexyl Olivate, Sodium Acrylates Copolymer, Polyglyceryl-4 Olivate
Olivem® 2020, Hallstar Italia 2,00 Multifunctional
Cold Emulsifier
C
Cyclomethicone 8,00 Silicone OilCyclopentasiloxane, Dimethiconol 2,00 Silicone Oil
Dimethicone, Dimethicone/Vinyl Dimethicone Crosspolymer 1,00 Silicone Elastomer
Blend
Olivem® and Olivem® 2020 are registered trademarks of Hallstar Innovations Corp.
Olivem® 2020 for SuncareApplications
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Olivem® 2020 In Sun Care Formulations
• Olivem® 2020 can be used to create sun care creams with a gel texture thanks to its compatibility with major UV filters, solvents and stabilisers
• Compatible with HallBrite ® EZ-FLO TDX and HallBrite ® EZ-FLO TDX Plus
• Compatibility with ZnO is variable and depends on
• ZnO coating: Lipophilic coated ZnO (Triethoxycaprylylsilane) gives best results
• Particle size
• ZnO should be added to the water phase after obtaining a smooth gel with Olivem®
2020, possibly adding Xanthan Gum to improve stability and while controlling pH
Olivem® and Olivem® 2020 are registered trademarks of Hallstar Innovations Corp.
Water Resistance: Olivem® 2020
1. Olivem® 2020 combined with Acrylates/DimethiconeCopolymer is a very good water resistance system.
2. Only 2%Olivem® 2020 is better than 5.80%PEG-100 Stearate + Glyceryl Stearate + Potassium CetylPhosphate and Hydrogenated Palm Glycerides + Xanthan gum
3. Olivem® 2020 compatible well with Acrylates/Dimethicone Copolymer, and 1% Acrylates/Dimethicone Copolymer has better water resistance than 2% VP/Eicosene Copolymer
Benefits from Olivem® 2020
• Use a co-polymer to provide electrostatic emulsion stabilization and to make oil film continuous and substantive on skin
• Provide a good hydrophobic lipid emulsifier to structure oil film, preventing re-emulsification
• Use very low number of emulsifier to reduce high HLB emulsifiers
Olivem® and Olivem® 2020 are registered trademarks of Hallstar Innovations Corp.
COLD PROCESS EMULSIFIER
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This light and non-greasy sunscreen lotion applies to wet skin without whitening.
Olivem® 2020 Cold process self-emulsifier with a refreshing and unique texture
SolaStay® S1 Most effective photostabilizer for Avobenzone
HallBrite® BHBGood sunscreen solvent; it provides emolliency
Broad Spectrum SPF 50 Sunscreen Gel
PhaseINCI Name [INN/USAN] (Other Information)
Trade Name % Wt Function
A
Ethylhexyl Salicylate[Octisalate] 5.00 UV Filter / Sunscreen Agent
Octocrylene[Octocrilene] 10.00 UV Filter / Sunscreen Agent
Homosalate[Homosalate] 10.00 UV Filter / Sunscreen Agent
EthylhexylMethoxycrylene SolaStay® S1 3.00 Photostabilizer
Butyloctyl Salicylate HallBrite® BHB* 5.00 Sunscreen Solvent
BButylMethoxydibenzoylmethane [Avobenzone]
3.00 UV Filter / Sunscreen Agent
C
Ethylhexyl Olivate, Sodium AcrylatesCopolymer, Polyglyceryl-4 Olivate
Olivem® 2020 2.00 Multifunctional Cold Process Emulsifier
Acrylates/DimethiconeCopolymer 1.00 Film Former
DWater (Aqua) up to 100 Volatile CarrierGlycerin 8.00 Humectant
EPreservative a.n. PreservativeDisodium EDTA 0.05 Chelating Agent
F
Silica (spherical, 12 µm) 2.00 Deoiling Agent
Dimethicone (5 cSt) 3.00 Feel Modification / Enhancement
Olivem® and Olivem® 2020 are registered trademarks of Hallstar Innovations Corp.
Olivem® 2020 G Cold process self-emulsifier with a refreshing and unique texture
HallBrite® BHBGood sunscreen solvent; it provides emolliency
This light and non-greasy sunscreen lotion applies to wet skin without whitening.
Phase INCI Name [INN/USAN] (Other Information) Trade Name % Wt Function
A
Ethylhexyl Salicylate [Octisalate] 5.00 UV Filter / Sunscreen
Agent
Octocrylene [Octocrilene] 10.00 UV Filter / Sunscreen Agent
Homosalate [Homosalate] 10.00 UV Filter / Sunscreen Agent
Butyloctyl Salicylate HallBrite® BHB 5.00 Sunscreen Solvent
Ethylhexyl Olivate Sensolene® 2.00 Multifunctional Emollient
Ethylhexyl Olivate, Sodium Acrylates Copolymer, Polyglyceryl-4 Oleate
Olivem® 2020 G 2.00 Multifunctional Cold Process Emulsifier
Acrylates/DimethiconeCopolymer 2.00 Film Former
BButyl Methoxydibenzoylmethane [Avobenzone]
3.00 UV Filter / Sunscreen Agent
C
Water (Aqua) up to 100 Volatile Carrier
Glycerin 8.00 Humectant
Preservative a.n Preservative
Disodium EDTA 0.05 Chelating Agent
Light and Non-Greasy Broad Spectrum SPF 50 Sunscreen Gel
Olivem® and Olivem® 2020 are registered trademarks of Hallstar Innovations Corp.
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Light and non-greasy sunscreen gel applies to wet skin without whitening, and protects the skin from burning and photo-ageing.
SolaStay® S1: Photostabilizer that improves sunscreen performance
HallBrite® BHB:Sunscreen polar solvent providing superior emolliency and improving filter’s stability
Phase INCI Name [INN/USAN] (Other Information) Trade Name % Wt Function
A
Ethylhexyl Salicylate [Octisalate] 5.00 UV Filter / Sunscreen AgentOctocrylene [Octocrilene] 10.00 UV Filter / Sunscreen AgentHomosalate [Homosalate] 10.00 UV Filter / Sunscreen AgentEthylhexyl Methoxycrylene SolaStay® S1 3.00 PhotostabilizerButyloctyl Salicylate HallBrite® BHB 5.00 Sunscreen Solvent
B Butyl Methoxydibenzoylmethane [Avobenzone] 3.00 UV Filter / Sunscreen Agent
CEthylhexyl Olivate, Sodium AcrylatesCopolymer, Polyglyceryl-4 Olivate Olivem® 2020 2.00 Multifunctional Cold Process
Emulsifier
Acrylates/Dimethicone Copolymer 1.00 Film Former
DWater (Aqua) up to 100 Volatile CarrierGlycerin 8.00 Humectant
EPreservative a.n. PreservativeDisodium EDTA 0.05 Chelating Agent
FSilica (spherical, 12 µm) 2.00 Deoiling Agent
Dimethicone (5 cSt) 3.00 Feel Modification / Enhancement
Olivem® 2020: Primary cold process emulsifier with no whitening upon application, evenon wet skin!
Sunscreen Gel SPF 50 PA++++ For Wet Skin
Olivem® and Olivem® 2020 are registered trademarks of Hallstar Innovations Corp.
Cold Process Sunscreen Cream SPF 30
Polycrylene®
Can improve the substantiality of sunscreen formulations as measured by resistance to wash-off
HallBrite® EZ-FLO TDX PlusShows how mineral UV filters can be easy to work with and also provide nice feel, low whitening, high performance sunscreens for customers
Olivem® 2020: Primary cold process emulsifierdelivering skin hydration and sensorialbenefits to the final formulation
Olivem® and Olivem® 2020 are registered trademarks of Hallstar Innovations Corp.
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TIO2 Sunscreen Cream
Olivem® 2020 A naturally-derived cold process emulsifier based on olive oil chemistry for energy efficient operations
Olivem® and Olivem® 2020 are registered trademarks of Hallstar Innovations Corp.
ZnO Sunscreen Cream
Olivem® 2020 A multifunctional biomimetic ingredient combining excellent emulsification performance and natural dermollience
Olivem® and Olivem® 2020 are registered trademarks of Hallstar Innovations Corp.
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Olivem® 2020 – tips to know
Olivem® and Olivem® 2020 are registered trademarks of Hallstar Innovations Corp.
Base FormulaPhase INCI %
A Water Up to 100
BOlivem® 2020 3,00
Almond Oil 20,0
Into Oil Phase
Olivem® 2020: Use As You Like!Microscope Zeiss Primo Star 4000x
*
*
* Water Loss ≈ 3 – 5%
Different procedures, what’s the best?
Into Water Phase
Into Oil Phase Into Water Phase
Hot
Cold
There’s no significant differenceamong the procedures
*
*
* Water Loss ≈ 3 – 5%
procedures,
Olivem® and Olivem® 2020 are registered trademarks of Hallstar Innovations Corp.
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Olivem® 2020: Practical Aspects
The packaging has been chosen in order to facilitate the squeezing that will permit a re-mixing of the product. It is possible to squeeze the product inside the packaging or stir it outside.
Olivem® 2020 tends to settle like other similar materials.
Olivem® and Olivem® 2020 are registered trademarks of Hallstar Innovations Corp.
Viscosity 10 RPMSamples
CoA Specs Olivem® 2020
max 50000 cPs(BT006-03/V01-17)
Viscosity 10 RPM Water gel 2%
CoA Water Gel Specs
10000-30000 cPs(BT006-04/V01-17)
Sample A 1400 cPs √ 19700 cPs √Sample B 7700 cPs √ 23000 cPs √Sample C 50000 cPs √ 23700 cPs √
OLIVEM® 2020 Standard Sample 20000 cPs √ 22000 cPs √
0 5000 10000 15000 20000
Sample A
Sample B
Sample C
OLIVEM® 2020
Viscosity 10 RPM WATER GEL 2% - QC ANALYSIS TEST
Olivem 2020 has been inaccurately homogenized and split in 3 parts
There are no significant differences in viscosity building properties.
Olivem® 2020: Practical Aspects
Olivem® and Olivem® 2020 are registered trademarks of Hallstar Innovations Corp.
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Olivem® 2020 –Anhydrous systems
2%Olivem® 2020 with Glycerin 90 / Oil 10
Clear gel with glycerine
Opaque gel with Octyldodecanol, Caprylic/Capric
Triglycerides, Octyl Isononanoate, Isododecane
Clear gel with Natural Oils
Clear Gel
2%Olivem® 2020 with Glycerin 90 / Oil 10
Clear gel with glycerine
Olivem® 2020: An Interesting Jellyfier For Anhydrous Applications
Olivem® and Olivem® 2020 are registered trademarks of Hallstar Innovations Corp.
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Olivem® 2020:Forms an oil in glycerin transparent holographic gel
An anhydrous holographic gel to restore the healthy feeling of incredibly soft and deeply nourished skin and smile again!
Phase INCI Name [INN/USAN] (Other Information) Trade Name % Wt Function
A Glycerin 89,90 Humectant
B
Ethylhexyl Olivate, Sodium AcrylatesCopolymer, Polyglyceryl-4 Olivate
Olivem® 2020, Hallstar Italia 1,00 Structuring
agent
Carthamus TinctoriusSeed Oil, AstragalusMembranaceus Root Extract, SpilanthesAcmella Flower/Leaf/StemExtract, Ubiquinone, Tocopherol
LIFT Oléoactif®, Hallstar 1,00 Active
Ingredient
Camellia Oleifera Seed OilBiochemica®
Camellia Tea Oil, Hallstar
8,00 Emollient
Tocopherol 0,10 AntioxidantAgent
LIFT® Oléoactif, Biochemica® Camellia Tea Oil Bring a range of benefits to the skin such as anti-aging and rejuvenating
Lift Diamond Mask
Olivem® and Olivem® 2020 are registered trademarks of Hallstar Innovations Corp.
Take My Make-Up Off is a facial cleanser that leaves your skin soft and moisturized.
POMEGRANATE Oléoactif®
Restructures and purifies the skinOPUNTIA Oléoactif®
Relaxes and comforts damaged cells
Olivem® 2020: Cushioning effect and stabilizingagent
Florasolvs® Macadamia-16 Water -oluble oil leaving the skin velvety and hydrated
Massage this unique oil into your skin and then rinse it off with water
Take My Make-Up Off
Phase INCI Name [INN/USAN] (Other Information) Trade Name % Wt Function
A
Glycerin 49,00 Humectant
Ethylhexyl Olivate, Sodium AcrylatesCopolymer, Polyglyceryl-4 Olivate
Olivem® 2020, Hallstar Italia 0,50 Multifunctional
Cold Emulsifier
B
PEG-16 Macadamia Glycerides Florasolvs® Macadamia-16, Hallstar 5,00 Emollient
Brassica Campestris (Rapeseed) Seed Oil, Opuntia Ficus-Indica Flower Extract, Camelina Sativa Seed Oil
OPUNTIA Oléoactif®, Hallstar 1,00 Active Ingredient
Simmondsia Chinensis (Jojoba) Seed Oil, Punica Granatum Extract, Punica Granatum Flower Extract
POMEGRANATE Oléoactif®, Hallstar 1,00 Active Ingredient
Propylene Glycol 43,00 Humectant
CPreservative a.n PreservativePerfume a.n. Perfume
Olivem® and Olivem® 2020 are registered trademarks of Hallstar Innovations Corp.
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Olivem® 2020 – The formulation rescue for sensoriality and stability
Base Formula
INCI %
Water Up to 100
Carbomer 0,10
Ceteareth-20 0.25
Cetearyl Alcohol 0,50
Paraffin Oil 20
NaOH a.n.
100x Base Formula
100x1% Ceteareth-20/ Cetearyl Alcohol
100x1% Product 1
100x1% Olivem® 2020
0 5000 10000 15000 20000 25000 30000
+ 1% Olivem 2020
+ 0.50% Olivem 2020
+1% Product 1
+0.50% Product 1
+1.0 % Ceteareth -20 /Cetearyl Alcohol
Base Formula
Viscosity 10 rpm – mPa.s
Centrifuge 5000 rpm 60’ Stable
100x0,50% Olivem® 2020
100x0,50 % Product 1
Olivem® 2020 stabilizes a basic formulation starting to 0,5%
Olivem® 2020: An Efficient Stabilizer
Olivem® and Olivem® 2020 are registered trademarks of Hallstar Innovations Corp.
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Polarized light microscope
100x
40x
Polarized light microscope
Smooth and Hydrate Primer
Olivem® 2020: A Compatible Biomimetic Emulsifier
Phase INCI Name [INN/USAN] (Other Information) Trade Name % Wt Function
AWater (Aqua) (deionized) up to 100 Volatile CarrierTrisodium Ethylendiamine Disuccinate 0,30 Chelating Agent
B
BHT 0,10 Antioxidant Agent
Cetearyl Olivate, Sorbitan Olivate Olivem® 1000, Hallstar Italia* 3,00 Emulsifier
Sorbitan Olivate Olivem® 900, Hallstar Italia 1,00 Co-emulsifier
CMethyl Methacrylate Crosspolymer 2,00 Soft Focus agent
Silica, Titanium Dioxide, Iron Oxides 1,00 Soft Focus agent
D Acrylates Copolymer 3,00 Film Former
E
Preservative a.n. PreservativeBrassica Campestris Seed Oil, Zingiber Officinale Root Extract, Alpinia Officinarum Root Extract
YOUTH Oléobooster®, Hallstar
0,50 Active Ingredient
F Ethylhexyl Olivate, Sodium Acrylates Copolymer, Polyglyceryl-4 Olivate
Olivem® 2020, Hallstar Italia 1,00 Multifunctional
Cold Emulsifier
Olivem® and Olivem® 2020 are registered trademarks of Hallstar Innovations Corp.
Olivem® 2020: The Multi-Functional Ingredient
COLD PROCESS EMULSIFIER
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Confidential and proprietary business information of Givaudan 2
The Surprise effect
The need for the extra-ordinary turns into an attraction for unusual product experiences. Consumers are attracted by everything that is outstanding: unknown textures, exceptional colors and rule-breaking concepts. They want unique experiences and unforgettable services. They are highly experimental and fight monotony and their decisions are made on the spot depending on their moods and feelings. Versatile and flexible, they look for the same in the products they buy. New formats New textures New technologies New packaging ideas New routine steps New approaches New targets
Active Beauty New WOW, solutions for ageless beauty
1 Confidential and proprietary business information of Givaudan
2018
SOLUTION FOR AGELESS BEAUTY
22
Confidential and proprietary business information of Givaudan 4
New Augmented Living
Augmented science
New Safety Brand communication needs to be honest and authentic to convince critical and aware consumers. Short and clear ingredient list, free-froms… are all valid approaches. Certifications are on the rise with also some touches of femininity, pleasure, fun and colors.
SOLUTION FOR AGELESS BEAUTY
23 SOLUTION FOR AGELESS BEAUTY
New targets
Consumers today are in a perpetual change. In a so fast-moving context, expectations, needs and preferences keep evolving. Every target has its own codes and brands are trying to meet new emerging needs
Add date using "Insert" -> "Header & Footer" Add date using "Insert" -> "Header & Footer"
Confidential business and proprietary information of Givaudan, may not be copied or distributed to anyone without the express written permission of Givaudan
7 Confidential and proprietary business information of Givaudan
SKINFOOD LUNA
LAF
SORT OF COAL Barbecue-like shampoo
DREAMS COME TRUE Melted Cheese
cream
IT’S SKIN Cookie & ice cream
EVITA Beautiful rose -shaped foam
MEATY FRESH Bacon-like smell deodorant
SEPHORA Warming effect face care
WHOOSH Wobbly jelly
The need for the extra-ordinary turns into an attraction for ultra-sensorial
product experiences. #wow-Millennials are attracted by
everything that is outstanding!
24
Confidential and proprietary business information of Givaudan 9
Sorbets :: jelly :: transforming textures :: powders in water :: bubbling :: with
true ingredients
CLINIQUE A refreshing gel-mask that instantly bubbles on skin
ERBORIAN Bamboo matte lotion with rice
powder
DIOR Hydra Life Fresh Hydration
Sorbet Crème
BOSCIA Charcoal Jelly Ball Cleanser
NEOGEN An innovative clay pore cleanser that transforms into a foam
DR. ROEBUCK’S Antioxidant potion
in mist for body
DR DREAM A powder essence that melts into a liquid form to absorb easily when lightly massaged onto dry skin.
ERBORIAN Spray to mask
SHISEIDO Jelly lotion
CHANEL Perfume in gel
FRESH An alcohol-free cleansing toner infused with real rose petals to remove residual impurities, refine the appearance of pores, and soften skin for a healthy-looking complexion.
Texture Pleasure
Consumers are now expecting to be moved and stimulated through multisensorial experiences. They want to feel alive, to be rooted in a sensorial reality that reenchants their life and daily environment.
SOLUTION FOR AGELESS BEAUTY
25
Wow Technology
Consumers are attracted by everything that is outstanding: unknown textures, exceptional colors and rule-breaking concepts. They want unique experiences and unforgettable services.
Confidential and proprietary business information of Givaudan 11
Encapsulated actives :: concentrated formulations :: high potency :: boosters
:: changing color :: changing temperature
BOBBI BROWN Skin fortifier. Infused with natural lipids to rebuild and strengthen skin's barrier of defense against moisture loss and external aggressors.
CLINIQUE Supercharged concentrate. Liquid-sphere technology combines water-binding ingredients with encapsulated antioxidants to help break the cycle of dryness and environmental stress
SKIN INC. The powerful antioxidant, vitamin C, is encapsulated in its purest and freshest form to fight free radicals to address skin damage
TATCHA An ultra-hydrating concentrate of botanical oils and extracts that melt into skin for a youthful-looking glow in as little as one night.
DR. DENNIS GROSS Color smart cleanser & mask
DR. CI LABO Hot Peel Cleansing Gel
SOLUTION FOR AGELESS BEAUTY
26
13
PrimalHyal™ Ultrafiller
A new generation of topical Hyaluronic acid for those who want a healthy skin with a flash ageless benefit.
INCI: Sodium Acetylated Hyaluronate
Confidential and proprietary business information of Givaudan
Confidential and proprietary business information of Givaudan 12
New techno concept n°1 PrimalHyal™ Ultrafiller ageless flash effect 2
SOLUTION FOR AGELESS BEAUTY
27
Confidential and proprietary business information of Givaudan
I use products containing hyaluronic acids and always look for new innovation
Twisting the traditional technology
using grafting
Confidential and proprietary business information of Givaudan
►Acetylated Hyaluronic acid
►Very low molecular weight 20kDa
►Deeper skin penetration
►Dermal filler profile
PrimalHyal™ Ultrafiller
Confidential and proprietary business information of Givaudan Confidential and proprietary business information of Givaudan
Skin explant - Caucasian 44 yo donor Treated 8hrs with PrimalHyal 50 1%
Length Y (µm) Length Y (µm)
Leng
th X
(µm
)
Leng
th X
(µm
)
Antioxidant & antipollution
activities
Tight junctions reinforcement
Protection of Extracellular
matrix Water holding
Collagen I synthesis increase
Skin firmness Skin texture
Wrinkle depth reduction
Skin explant - Caucasian 37 yo donor Treated 8hrs with PrimalHyal™Ultrafiller 1%
I want more than a concentrated mix of HA. How can HAs be complementary?
SOLUTION FOR AGELESS BEAUTY
28
► Reduction by -8.7%* of the length of furrows in 1 hour vs placebo.
► Reduction by -26.5%* of deeper wrinkles number in 6 hours.
*p<0.05 Student’s t-test vs placebo
I want a flash effect to get rid of my deepest wrinkles
21 volunteers Average age 63 yo Crow’s feet wrinkles PrimalHyal™Ultrafiller 0.2% T0 T1h
Confidential and proprietary business information of Givaudan
1
2
1
► Increase the enzyme TRXR1 by +34%** in pro oxidative stress. (**p<0.01 Student’s t-test vs untreated)
► Reduce free radicals production by -30%* in oxidative stress. ( *p<0.05 Student’s t-test vs untreated)
Antioxidant On NHEKs, PrimalHyal™ Ultrafiller 0.1%
► Sequestosome activation up to +40%* under heavy metals, hydro carbures and UV exposure.
► Reduce the MDA production on skin by -29%* (*p<0.05% Student’s t-test vs pollution + UV).
1 Antipollution On human skin explants
*p<0.05% Student’s t-test vs untreated
2 Protection of ECM On human skin explants
No
pol
luti
on
Pol
luti
on
+
UV
► Decrease the activity of MMP-1 and MMP-9 in the dermis by -18%** and -27%**. (**p<0.01 Student’s t-test vs untreated).
► Decrease MMP-1 and MMP-9 in dermis by -33%# and -203%x under heavy metals, hydrocarbures & UV exposure (#p<0.01, xp<0.05 Student’s t-test vs pollution+UV).
I want my skin to be healthy, detoxified and protected from photo pollution
SOLUTION FOR AGELESS BEAUTY
29
-15
-10
-5
0
5
10
15
20
25
30
Crow's feet (lengthof furrows 0-0.5 mm)
after 1h
Crow's feet (numberof wrinkles 0.5-2
mm) after 6h
Del
ta D
0 (
%)
Placebo
PrimalHyal™ Ultrafiller
Crow’s feet wrinkles filling Flash filler effect in 1 to 6 hours
The wrinkles lengths and numbers were analysed by profilometry and VISIA®CR2.3 respectively after 1H and 6H.
Results:
PrimalHyal™Ultrafiller has a flash filler effect.
► Significant reduction of the length
of the crow’s feet down to -8.7% in 1 hour vs placebo.
► Significant reduction of deeper wrinkles number in 6 hours down to
-26.5%.
Confidential and proprietary business information of Givaudan 18
* p<0.05 Student’s t-test
-8.7%*
-26.5%*
Crow’s feet length and number reduction in 1 and 6H
Self assessment Flash filler effect in 1 to 6 hours
All the volunteers were asked to assess the efficacy of the product on their wrinkle appearances and the general aspect of their skin, 6 hours after application.
Confidential and proprietary business information of Givaudan 19
I see an improvement of
the appearance of my skin.
76%
My crow’s feet are smoother.
71%
6H
SOLUTION FOR AGELESS BEAUTY
30
Reduction of nasogenian area wrinkles Mid and long term anti-ageing activity
Confidential and proprietary business information of Givaudan 21
Placebo
PrimalHyal™Ultrafiller 0.1%
*p<0.05 Student’s t-test
Confidential and proprietary business information of Givaudan 20 Confidential and proprietary business information of Givaudan
D0 D28
20 volunteers, average 56 yo Nasogenian wrinkles area Visia® Analysis PrimalHyal™Ultrafiller 0.1%
D0 D56
► Wrinkles number down to -9%* ► Wrinkled area down to -12% *
30 volunteers, average 57 yo Skin texture Visia® analysis PrimalHyal™Ultrafiller 0.1%
► Reduction of skin roughness by -9%*
I want a daily treatment making my skin healthier and smoother !
SOLUTION FOR AGELESS BEAUTY
31
Confidential and proprietary business information of Givaudan 23
Self assessment Improvement of skin texture
All the volunteers were asked to assess the efficacy of the product on their skin appearances, after 56days of a twice daily application of a cream at 0.1% PrimalHyal™ Ultrafiller.
Confidential and proprietary business information of Givaudan 22
My skin looks healthier
70% My skin is smoother.
77%
My skin is more moisturised.
70%
SOLUTION FOR AGELESS BEAUTY
32
The alternative to dermal filler!
Summary
Confidential and proprietary business information of Givaudan 25
PrimalHyal™ Ultrafiller - Xyliance S3D® Pro’Fill
03-2018 Confidential and proprietary business information of Givaudan. 24
Ref.: HAF 17-4
Phase INCI name Commercial name Supplier Dosage
A
Cetearyl wheat straw glycoside, Cetearyl alcohol Dimethicone Capric/caprylic triglyceride Phenoxyethanol, Ethylhexylglycerin
Xyliance Xiameter pmx-200 silicone Fluid 350cSt Miglyol 812N Euxyl PE 9010
Givaudan AB Dow corning Cremer oleo Schülke
4%
0.3%
4.5% 1%
B Aqua / Water Microcrystalline cellulose, Cellulose gum
Avicel PC 611
FMC corporate
SQ 100% 2%
C Aqua/Water Sodium acetylated hyaluronate
PrimalHyal™ Ultrafiller
Givaudan AB
2% 0.2%
D Polymethyl Methacrylate Covabed Velvet 20 Sensient 0.5%
E Fragrance, Geraniol, Citronellol, Linalool, D-Limonene
Lips anti age 05 EAF42861/00
Givaudan
0.2%
Process 1. Prepare A and heat under gentle stirring at 70°C in a Bain-Marie; 2. Prepare B under 5000 rpm for 30 minutes at room temperature; 3. Heat B under gentle stirring at 70°C in a Bain-Marie; 4. At 70°C, add B in A under high speed mixing at 3000 rpm for a few minutes; 5. At 35°C, add successively C, D and E in AB under gentle stirring for a few minutes until total
homogenization. Aspect: White lotion• Viscosity : 8000 mPa.s (Brookfield DVIII Ultra, Spindle E, Speed 12 at 20°C) • pH : 5.88
SOLUTION FOR AGELESS BEAUTY
33
INCI
Origin
Preservation
Appearance
Solubility
Dosage
Processing
Compliance
Technical information PrimalHyal™ Ultrafiller
27
Sodium Acetylated Hyaluronate
Light yellow powder
Biotechnology
Water soluble
0.1%-0.2% Can be added at the end of the formulation process in a premix 0.1% PrimalHyal™Ultrafiller / 1.5% Water, or in the water phase at the end of heating if in an emulsion. Formulate at temperature < 80°C, and pH between 4 and 12.
Preservative free
Confidential and proprietary business information of Givaudan
(patent pending)
PrimalHyal™Ultrafiller behaves as a filler Stimulate skin dermis and epidermis metabolism
Confidential and proprietary business information of Givaudan 26
Plumping effect
SOLUTION FOR AGELESS BEAUTY
34
29
Vetivyne™
Fragrance inspired skin youth booster for those who want to embrace their age with more comfort, firmness and tonicity.
Confidential and proprietary business information of Givaudan
INCI: Vetiveria Zizanoides Root Extract (and) Propanediol (and) Water
Confidential and proprietary business information of Givaudan 28
New techno concept n°2 Vetivyne™ from earth and upclycled 2
SOLUTION FOR AGELESS BEAUTY
35
Upcycled exhausted Vetiver roots
Confidential and proprietary business information of Givaudan
I feel responsible for making the world a better place
Confidential and proprietary business information of Givaudan
► Boost the entire lipids synthesis in the skin
► Ongoing SOLSO program for Vetiver oil
► Ecocert Organic Standard and fair trade certification (ESR standard)
Fully natural Odour-free extract
Vetivyne™
► +31%*** lipids accumulation in sebocytes (in vitro, on sebocytes, Vetivyne 1%, ***p<0.001 Student’s t test vs lipogenic mix only)
► Up to +23%** antimicrobial lipids in sebum (in vitro, Lauric acid & Sapienic acid, Vetivyne 1%, **p<0.01 Student’s t-test vs lipogenic mix only)
► +42%** production of ceramides (in vitro, on RHE, Vetivyne 1%, **p<0.01 Student’s t test)
► +125%***expression of Ceramide Transport protein (in vitro, on NHEKs, Vetivyne 1%, ***p<0.001 Student’s t-test)
► +29.6%** lipid content in the cornified envelope (ex vivo, skin explant 69yo donor, Vetivyne 1%, **p<0.01 Student’s t-test)
► Up to +239%* expression of Dermokine, Involucrin, Loricrin in the Stratum Corneum (ex vivo, skin explants 69yo donor, Vetivyne 1%, *p<0.05 Student’s t-test)
I want my skin to feel supple and comfortable while replumped from the inside
1
2
1
2
Target +50 yo Dried & Wrinkled
Perfect Aged skin Wrinkles free
+
Confidential and proprietary business information of Givaudan
SOLUTION FOR AGELESS BEAUTY
36
Add date using "Insert" -> "Header & Footer" Add date using "Insert" -> "Header & Footer"
in vitro/ex vivo Boosting adipocytes
33 Confidential and proprietary business information of Givaudan
Improving adipocytes differentiation In vitro
Pre-adipocytes were cultured for 13 days with or without Vetivyne™ at 3%.
Lipid droplets, a marker of adipocytes diferentiation, were then labelled using AdipoRed™ (a fluorescent lipid probe) to quantify the differentiation.
Results:
Vetivyne™ significantly
increases the adipocytes differentiation,
with an effect up to +3413%. *p<0.05 Student’s t-test
Confidential and proprietary business information of Givaudan 34
Unt
reat
ed
Vetiv
yne™
3%
+3413%*
SOLUTION FOR AGELESS BEAUTY
37
Ex vivo Increasing adipocytes volume 1/2
Explants of full skin (epidermis, dermis and hypodermis) were treated or not with Vetivyne™ at 3%.
On D0, D1, D4 and D6, the product was topically applied.
On D8, explants were stained for microscopical analysis.
Adipocytes size determination was then performed by image analysis, by measuring their equivalent circular diameter. Results:
Vetivyne™ significantly
increases the average size of adipocytes in the hypodermis, as observed by microscopy.
Confidential and proprietary business information of Givaudan 35
Untreated
Vetivyne™ at 3%
Evolution of adipocytes size distribution and populations Increasing adipocytes volume 2/2
It is also noticeable that a shift in the population of adipocytes can be observed after the use of Vetivyne™.
*p<0.05 Student’s t-test
Confidential and proprietary business information of Givaudan 36
The number of « small » adipocytes increases by +26%, reflecting the differentiation boost
observed in vitro. (Appearance of new small adipocytes from pre-adipocytes)
The number of « large » adipocytes increases by +189%, as a consequence of the average
size increase and a better fat storage capacity. (Accumulation of lipids in the existing adipocytes)
20 – 60 µm 100 – 140 µm
SOLUTION FOR AGELESS BEAUTY
38
I want a significant recovery of tonicity and firmness with an anti-fatigue effect
2 x 21 volunteers, average age 60 yo with sagging face and wrinkles. Vetivyne™ 2%
D0
D56
5.0 10.0 15.0 [mm]
After 56 days: ► +11.2%* in tonicity/firmness
► -17.8%* of skin fatigue *p<0.05 Student’s t-test vs placebo
► Down to -18%*** of Perilabial wrinkles area
► Significant effect for 100% of the volunteers vs placebo ***p<0.001 Student’s t-test vs placebo
D56 D0 D28
Confidential and proprietary business information of Givaudan
*p<0.05, #p<0.1 Student’s t-test vs placebo
20 volunteers 28 days of treatment
Vetivyne™ 2%
On the 29th day, a fine fragrance is applied: Boosting the fragrance olfactive intensity and long-lastingness by
+25%* after 2 hours and +21%# after 4 hours
I want a product that surprises me and delivers an additional value
« By emphasing fragrances heart and base notes over time, Vetivyne™ demonstrates a real interest as a fragrance sensuality booster. »
Professional Givaudan fragrance evaluator
Confidential and proprietary business information of Givaudan
SOLUTION FOR AGELESS BEAUTY
39
Add date using "Insert" -> "Header & Footer" Add date using "Insert" -> "Header & Footer" 39 Confidential and proprietary business information of Givaudan Vetivyne™- Soligel™ - Uniprosyn® PS 18 - Syner-GX™ - Kendi oil – Nyamplung oil
Skin plump’
Process 1. Prepare A and B and heat under gentle stirring at 75°C in a Bain-Marie; 2. At 75°C, add B in A under high speed mixing at 3000 rpm for a few minutes; 3. Let it cool down at room temperature under gentle stirring; 4. At 35°C, add successively C and D under high speed mixing at 3000 rpm for a few minutes.
Aspect: White cream • Viscosity : 13000 mPa.s (Brookfield DVIII Ultra, Spindle E, Speed 12 at 20°C) • pH : 6.31
03-2018 Confidential and proprietary business information of Givaudan. 40
Ref.: SC 18-8
Phase INCI name Commercial name Supplier Dosage
A
Cetearyl wheat straw glycoside, Cetearyl alcohol Aleurites moluccanus seed oil Dimethicone Cyclopentasiloxane, Dimethiconol Isopropyl palmitate Mineral oil/Paraffinum liquidum Phenoxyethanol, Ethylhexylglycerin BHT
Xyliance Kendi oil Xiameter pmx-200 silicone Fluid 350cSt Xiameter PMX-1501 Fluid Dub IPP Marcol 82 Euxyl PE 9010 BHT
Givaudan AB Givaudan AB Dow corning Dow corning Stearinerie Dubois Exxonmobil Clariant Sigma
4% 3%
2.5%
3% 2% 1% 1%
0.05%
B
Aqua / Water Rhizobian gum Glycerin Cyamopsis tetragonoloba (guar) gum, Xanthan gum Sodium stearoyl glutamate Butylene Glycol, Hydrolyzed Oat Protein, Niacinamide, Adenosine Triphosphate
Soligel™ Vegetal glycerin rapeseed Syner-GX™ Amisoft HS11PF Uniprosyn® PS 18
Givaudan AB Oleon Givaudan AB Ajinomoto Givaudan AB
SQ 100% 0.1% 1%
0.1%
0.5% 3%
C Propanediol, Water, Vetiveria zizanoides root extract
Vetivyne™
Givaudan AB
2%
D Fragrance
Lips passion fruit 16 EAF42865/00
Givaudan
0.05%
SOLUTION FOR AGELESS BEAUTY
40
Fragrance inspired skin youth booster!
Summary
Confidential and proprietary business information of Givaudan 41
Vetivyne™ acts on the three main lipids sources in the skin Mode of action
Confidential and proprietary business information of Givaudan 42
Before After
1. Improvement of skin hydration 2. Reduction of wrinkles and skin fatigue 3. Fragrance enhancing properties
1. Loss of Hydration 2. Less firmness and tonicity 3. Sagging skin and wrinkles
SOLUTION FOR AGELESS BEAUTY
41
INCI
Origin
Preservation
Appearance
Solubility
Dosage
Processing
Compliance
Technical information Vetivyne™
43
Vetiveria Zizanoides Root Extract (and) Propanediol (and) Water
Amber liquid
Vegetal Extraction
Water soluble
1-3%
Can be added at the beginning or at the end of the formulation process into the water phase. Formulate at T° below 40°C, and pH between 4 and 10.
None
Confidential and proprietary business information of Givaudan
Approval pending
Add date using "Insert" -> "Header & Footer" Add date using "Insert" -> "Header & Footer"
Confidential business and proprietary information of Givaudan, may not be copied or distributed to anyone without the express written permission of Givaudan
Thank you
Marketing team [email protected]
44 Confidential and proprietary business information of Givaudan
SOLUTION FOR AGELESS BEAUTY
42
Between Nature & Technology
By Solabia
The S.M.A.R.Tmultifunctional referencereference
THE CELL COMMUNICATION, THE HEART OF WELL-BEING
Between Nature & Technology
TO ACCESS WELL BEING
SCIENCE
POSITIVE COMMUNICATION
CELL COMMUNICATION
43
Between Nature & Technology
KERATINOCYTE COMMUNICATION
SCIENCE
FORFOR BETTERBETTER AGINGAGING ANDRESTRUCTURINGRESTRUCTURINGRESTRUCTURING EFFECT
InfluencingInfluencing KERATINOCYTEKERATINOCYTE COMMUNICATIONallows to enhance
KERATINOCYTEKERATINOCYTE COMMUNICATIONCOMMUNICATIONenhanceenhance PROTEIN SYNTHESIS
Between Nature & Technology
SCIENCE
KEY EPIDERMAL PROTEINS
SIRTUINSIRTUIN-SIRTUIN-1
THE "youth proteins" or "proteins of longevity"
Essential role in physiological processes includingDNA repair, resistance to oxidative stress and celldeath
Promotes cell renewal
ZOOM ON… SIRTUIN-1
§
§
§
CELL COMMUNICATION
44
Between Nature & Technology
SCIENCE
Restructuring Proteins
Produced during epidermal renewal,in the upper layers of the epidermis
Essential to skin barrier function
INVOLUCRININVOLUCRINLORICRIN
Stratum granulosum
Keratinocytes
Loricrin
Involucrin
EpidermaldifferentiationStratum corneum
KEY EPIDERMAL PROTEINS
ZOOM ON… INVOLUCRIN LORICRIN
§§
§
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SCIENCE
TOTO GAINGAIN ININ COMFORTANDANDAND WELL
GAINGAIN INWELLWELL-WELLWELL-BEINGBEINGBEING SENSATION
InfluencingInfluencing NEURONNEURON COMMUNICATIONallows to regulate
NEURONNEURON COMMUNICATIONCOMMUNICATIONregulateregulate INFLAMMATION
and painful sensations
NEURON COMMUNICATION
CELL COMMUNICATION
45
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Transient Receptor Potential Vanilloid
Acid-Sensing Ion Channel
SCIENCE
Ca2+
Nerve membrane
TRPVor
ASIC
Activation of thereceptors of sensitivity
Irritant
Substance P
Neurogenicinflammation
TransientTRPVAcidASICS
Receptors activated by climate, pollution or chemicals
Release of inflammation mediators (Substance P)
Increase disconfort feeling and painfulsensation
ZOOM ON… TRPV & ASICSKEY RECEPTORS OF SENSITIVITY
§
§
§
Between Nature & Technology
HOW TO POSITIVELY INFLUENCE ON
COMMUNICATION TO ACCESS WELL BEING?
POSITIVE COMMUNICATIONSCIENCE
CELL COMMUNICATION
46
Between Nature & Technology
FUCOGEL®
ACTIVE
A UNIVERSAL AND MULTIFUNCTIONAL REFERENCE DEDICATEDUNIVERSAL AND MULTIFUNCTIONAL
TO SKIN MULTIFUNCTIONALMULTIFUNCTIONAL
TO SKIN WELLMULTIFUNCTIONAL
WELL-REFERENCE DEDICATEDREFERENCEMULTIFUNCTIONAL REFERENCE
WELL--BEINGFOR MORE THAN 20 YEARS
L-fucose
IS A POLYSACCHARIDE BASE ON FUCOSE, THE KEY FOR COMMUNICATIONIS A POLYSACCHARIDE BASE ON FUCOSE, THE KEY FOR COMMUNICATIONIS A POLYSACCHARIDE BASE ON FUCOSE, THE KEY FOR COMMUNICATIONIS A POLYSACCHARIDE BASE ON FUCOSE, THE KEY FOR COMMUNICA
Between Nature & Technology
ACTIVE
THE FERMENTATION EXPERTISE
At the heart of SOLABIA’s fermentation expertise there
is an exclusive bacterial collection, in addition to
public collections
IDENTITY CARD§ High molecular weight (1.106 Da)§ Containing L-fucose, D-galactose and
galacturonic acid§ Obtained by bacterial fermentation from
non-GMO vegetable substrate
L-fucose
D-galactose
Galacturonic acid
CELL COMMUNICATION
47
Between Nature & Technology
ACTIVE
S.M.A.R.T
Neuro-SOOTHING
MOISTURIZING
ANTI-AGING
RESTRUCTURING
TOUCH
WELLWELL-WELL-BEING
FUCOGELFUCOGEL®S.M.A.R.T PERFORMANCE TO ACCESS WELL-BEING
Between Nature & Technology
0
5
10
15
Without lactic acid With lactic acid FUCOGEL® POWDER
Subs
tanc
e P
rele
ase
(A.U
)
FUCOGEL® 0.1% + lactic acid
PERFORMANCE
Inhibition of neurogenic inflammation through ASIC signaling pathway
*p<0.05*p<0.05
- 2 5 % *
v s C o n t r o l w i t h l a c t i c a c i d
In vitro study on keratinocytes/neurons co-culture treated in the medium with FUCOGEL® at 0.1% (or 0.01% FUCOGEL®POWDER) in water and lactic acid at 0.1%. Quantification of the Substance P released by ELISA kit.
FUCOGEL® relieves from neurogenic inflammation and stinging sensations
1. Neuro-SOOTHING
CELL COMMUNICATION
48
Between Nature & Technology
PERFORMANCE
Immediate neuro-soothing activity
Only 5 minutes after application, FUCOGEL® has a soothing effect on irritated and hypersensitive skin by decreasing the tingling sensation
FUCOGEL® restores immediately well-being and comfort.
Clinical study on 19 volunteers with sensitive and reactive skin. One application of FUCOGEL® at 3% (or 0.3% FUCOGEL®POWDER) vs. Placebo on the nasolabial fold after lactic acid aggression. Soothing effect evaluation after 5 minutes (stinging test).
0,00,51,01,52,02,53,03,54,04,55,0
Placebo 3% FUCOGEL®
Reac
tivity
scor
e
T0 T5min
- 4 7 % *
v s T 0
- 2 4 % *
v s P l a c e b o
(or 0.3% FUCOGEL® POWDER)
* p<0.05
1. Neuro-SOOTHING
Between Nature & Technology
PERFORMANCE
FUCOGEL® shows a progressive and prolonged moisturizing effect. Its effect complements that of hyaluronic acid.
In vivo study on volunteers. Application on the forearm of FUCOGEL® vs. hyaluronic acid (1% polysaccharide in water).Measurement of the hydration by N.M.R. before and after application (1h, 3h, 8h).
0
20
40
60
80
100
120
1 h 3 h 8 h
Valu
e of
hyd
ratio
nre
late
dto
T0
(%)
FUCOGEL® Hyaluronic acid
2. MOISTURIZING
CELL COMMUNICATION
49
Between Nature & Technology
PERFORMANCE
Stimulation of epidermal renewal
Ex vivo study on explants treated topically with FUCOGEL® at 2% and 5% (or 0.2 and 0.5% FUCOGEL® POWDER) vs.Placebo. Quantization of the loricrin and involucrin by immunolabeling at D8.
Involucrin & Loricrin in pink
+ 8 8 % * * *
v s P l a c e b o
5% FUCOGEL®
(or 0.5% FUCOGEL® POWDER)
> Involucrin > Loricrin** p<0.05 *** p<0.01
+ 5 1 % *
v s P l a c e b o
5% FUCOGEL®
(or 0.5% FUCOGEL® POWDER)
* p<0.1 ** p<0.05
FUCOGEL® activates cell renewal and therefore the "young appearance" of the skin
FUCOGEL® Restore the quality of the skin barrier which is essential to reduce discomfort, even more in sensitive skin
4. RESTRUCTURING
CELL COMMUNICATION
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PERFORMANCE
FUCOGEL® fights against aging and promotes cell longevity
Stimulation of sirtuins-1, "youth proteins"
Ex vivo study on explants treated topically with FUCOGEL® at 5% (or 0.5% FUCOGEL® POWDER) vs. Placebo. Quantizationof sirtuins-1 by immunolabeling at D8.
* p<0.05
+ 4 7 5 % *
v s P l a c e b o
Sirtuin-1 in pink
Placebo5% FUCOGEL®
(or 0.5% FUCOGEL® POWDER)
3. ANTI-AGING
50
Between Nature & Technology
PERFORMANCE
Increases Soft Touch
5. TouchImprovement of softness
Between Nature & Technology
SoothingMoisturizingAnti-AgingRestructuringTouch
COMFORT AND WELL-BEING
FOR EVERYSKIN
THE ESSENTIAL
FUCOGELFUCOGEL®S.M.A.R.T PERFORMANCE TO ACCESS WELL-BEING
CELL COMMUNICATION
51
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ON the MARKET
Millennials CARE
MARKET PRODUCT
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Well-aging CARE
ON the MARKET
MARKET PRODUCT
CELL COMMUNICATION
52
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By Solabia
Meet us atAston Booth #301
THANK YOU
FOR YOUR ATTENTION !
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The information presented in this document cannot be copied or used at business ends without obtaining a written agreement of the SOLABIA Group and related entities. This information is provided in good faith and is based on our current knowledge. It is forinformation purpose only and does not commit SOLABIA Group liability. We hereby disclaim any warranty of suitability of the ingredient presented for any purpose. In particular, marketing claim ideas are only suggestions and required verification for commercialuse and advertising. The user of the ingredient presented is solely responsible for ensuring that the use made of the ingredient, the finished products including it and especially claims referring to it comply with all applicable laws and regulations.
CELL COMMUNICATION
53 EMULSIFIERS
Introducing AqStarTM M1
Dr Andrew M Howe, FRSC
ü Naturally derived
ü High-performance emulsifier
ü Distinctive aesthetics
ü Formulation flexibility
Grolman Hall 4, Stand 330
Grolman, Hall 4 Booth 330
• What is AqStarTM M1?• How emulsifiers are the key to aesthetics
• Why choose AqStarTM M1?ü Naturally derivedü Distinctive aesthetics ü Formulation flexibilityü Simple processing steps
• Example Formulations
Content
© Aqdot Ltd
54 EMULSIFIERS
Grolman, Hall 4 Booth 330
• A naturally-derived emulsifierü ISO16128ü GMO-free
• INCI: Sodium Starch Octenylsuccinate (and) Cucurbiturils*• A complex of lipophilic waxy maize starch and AqTMbit
ü Starch provides steric, charge and polymer microgel stabilisationü AqTMbit technology provides added stability by a combination of steric, charge
and interfacial-network interactions - “multi-mechanism” stability
AqStarTM M1 is…
© Aqdot Ltd 3
* REACH registered, No hazard labelling required.
55 EMULSIFIERS
56 EMULSIFIERS
57 EMULSIFIERS
58 EMULSIFIERS