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Session 13
Model Making-I
Session Speaker
Sukanta Majumdar
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Session Objectives
At the end of the session the delegates
will be able to understand the use of card and
paper model for model making and be able toconvey the purpose of model making
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Session Topics
1. Introduction to model making.
2. Card and paper modeling.
3. Appearance models
4. Modeling in foam and thermocol5. Examples on cardboard/paper models
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Introduction to Model Making
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Structuralrepresentation
Structural andfunctional
Functionalrepresentation
Physical size, shapeand appearance(but not function)
Appearancemodel
Physical size, shape(but not functionand appearance)
Form and fit model
As manufacturedMaterials and
process
Productionprototype
Mock-up of
Manufactured product(Size,shape and function)
Pre-productionprototype
Key functions(but not sizeand shape)
Working principles
prototypeSpecific functions
(but not size and shape)
Test Prototype
Types of MODELS used in the DESIGN PROCESS
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The termsprototype and model
model to describe a non-functional representation and
prototype to describe a functional item.
An appearance model is a full-scale, non-functional, representation
that looks, as closely as possible, identical to the prospective newproduct.
Form and Fit models are ideal for ergonomic analysis of handheld
electronic devices, medical equipment and computer input devices
SLA, SLS, CNC,etc
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Introduction
Cardboard and paper have been used for many years in
model making.
From the simple paper aeroplane to the most complexarchitectural models
card and paper as modeling materials are extremely cost
efficient
simple to use and Require few tools with little experience
needed to produce high quality models
Card and Paper Modeling
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Tools
It should also be remembered that all knives and scissors
are dangerous and should always be used with extreme
care.
Adhesives should only be used in a well ventilated room.
Always avoid inhaling any adhesive vapour as this is
likely to be harmful. Always wash well any spills in contact with the skin.
Always follow the directions on the container.
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Knife - The best modeling knives are surgical scalpels. They are
extremely strong and can be purchased in a variety of styles withvarious blade types. Dissection knives and other specific modeling
knives are preferably used precise and blunt cutting. The most
important fact is that the knife is comfortable to use and strong enough
not to slip. Remember to always wear safety glasses when using sharp
instruments, and to cut away from you. All craft and surgical knives are
extremely sharp!
Straight Edge - A simple but essential tool to ensure clean straight
lines are cut in a controlled manner. When using any form of
model/craft knife, always use a steel straight edge to prevent the bladecutting into the straight edge. A variety of sizes are useful from 15cm
to 100cm depending on the work. Safety straight edges are an
advantage as the 'holding' fingers are protected from the blade.
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Scissors - Good quality straight and curve blade scissors are
often overlooked by model makers but they can save time
when cutting irregular shapes. For accurate intricate work
use scissors with a small blade and long handles eg surgical
scissors, available in a variety of types. A pair of qualitylong blade straight scissors allows for neater straight cuts if a
knife cannot be used
Retaining Tools - Basically anything that holds the items in
place whilst the adhesive sets. Useful items include staplers,
paper clips and paper weights. Masking tape or similar can be
useful to hold the model while it sets or as a temporary fixwhen checking. Drawing pins can be invaluable
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Adhesives
Adhesives should only be used in a well ventilated room. Always
avoid inhaling any adhesive vapour as this is likely to be harmful.
Always wash well any spills in contact with the skin. Always follow
the directions on the container.
A wide variety of adhesives can be used on cardboard and gluedepending upon the thickness/quality of material and the required
finish. Some of the most popular types are listed as follows:
'All Purpose Adhesives' - These adhesives include glue stick, gums
and fevicol All Purpose Clear. They are designed for use on most
materials but are quick setting when used on card and paper.
Generally clear and relatively thick they are most suited to stickingthin surfaces together as a strong rapid bond is formed. They are
however a little thick in consistency and expensive for use on large
surface areas.
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Super Glue - A recent essential addition to the modellers tool box.
Super glue has its uses with most modelling materials and therefore hasa place in card and paper modelling. Super glue is ideal where holding
the subject may be difficult and a rapid bond is required. It is also
useful for adding detail to card and paper models. Do not purchase an
expensive super glue as it is not necessary. The fevi-quick, range is
recommended for our requirement.
Techniques - Hints & Tips
Techniques/hints and tips are very simple with card and paper.
One of the most important tips is to remember that paper blunts blades
rapidly! As soon as you feel the blade 'drag', replace it as ragged cuts
will spoil the appearance of a model.When making pre-coloured card kits, painting the edges using acrylic
or water based paints improves the appearance.
Reinforce card kits and structures using triangular corner pieces
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Some basic tips for paper modeling
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Basic folds
Mountain folds (fold the sides back) are
indicated with a dashed line (- - - - - - -)
Valley folds (fold the sides forward) are
indicated with a dotted line (. . . . . . . . .).
Cut out individual pieces along the black line
around their edges. Some pieces may require
cutting slots toward the center of the piece:look for a small scissors symbol or a fine
white line indicating the length and width of
the slot.
Mountain folds
Valley folds
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To get a crisp fold, particularly on the smaller pieces, score the
paper along the fold lines with a hobby knife before cutting outthe pieces entirely.
For valley folds, score the
reverse side of the paper. First,mark the ends of the dotted lines
by carefully pushing a pin or the
tip of your knife through thecard. Flip the card over and
connect the dots in order to score
the fold line.
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Have a chopstick or blunt toothpick ready to
move small pieces into their correct positions
while the glue is still tacky.
This technique is quite useful when pushing theroof pieces inside the small cylindrical sections of
the Tower like structures so that they are level
and correctly inset from the top of the cylinder.
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More advanced tips to improve your models
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You can strengthen the tiny, thin pieces by touching a drop of
super glue to the back of the paper. Make sure you touch the glueto the back of the piece so that it does not leave an unsightly
glossy blob on the front. Just a tiny drop will soak into the piece
and stiffen the paper. Just be careful not to touch the piece or getit dirty while the super-glue is drying.
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When making round cylinders,
you may want to modify themodel to make a smoother,
rounder cylinder. Here is how
most cylinders are made, withthe tab glued under the end of
the cylinder:
You can make a smoother
cylinder by cutting off the taband gluing a scrap of paper
behind the end in its place.
Then you can match the twosides of the cylinder to make a
smooth seam.
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If you are scoring each fold of your model,
you may want to hide the white interior ofthe paper that shows through at each corner
by coloring the edges of the folds and sides
of the pieces. Do not use water color paintsor markers on the models.The matte paper
our postcards are printed on will soak up the
ink too quickly and ruin your model.
Colored pencils work much better,
especially soft watercolor pencils. Before
you have glued the piece onto the model,
fold it back to expose the inside of thepaper, then carefully run the side of the
pencil along the edge to color it.
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Appearance models are approximate 3 dimensional models. One
can think of an appearance model as a 3-dimensional sketch,
sometimes referred to as a sketch model. The models are used
just like concept sketches--to both explore and gain insight into
preliminary ideas, and to communicate ideas. Specifically, theyfacilitate the exploration of aspects not accessible through 2-
dimensional paper sketches. They can be used to demonstrate
primary elements in a product and perform simple experiments.They can be made very quickly and are quite cheap. Typically,
such models are made in the process of developing a product.
This lecture presents a variety of techniques that will be helpfulwhen you make appearance models of your designs.
The lecture begins by briefly introducing some common
materials used to make appearance models. Then, techniques for
working with the materials are outlined.
Appearance models
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This model uses all of the common modeling materials described
in this lecture--foam, cardboard, foam core and honeycomb
board. The model was built to demonstrate modeling techniques.This example is a highly finished appearance model that could
be used to get feedback from potential customer. However, the
higher level of finish comes with a price. It is in terms of time.
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If you are going to bring models to potential users, the realism ofthe model can be enhanced by carefully detailing the areas where
the customers interact closely with the product. This instrument
panel is made of paper.
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The displays and controls can be quickly modeledusing everyday objects. In this instance many of the
buttons are from everyday seen objects, tablets etc..
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This concept sketch presents a 'boom box' like image for the stereo
LCD television.How to model it?
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The model for the concept is made of foam and foam core. Itallows the designers to explore and communicate the
concept when stored ...
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and demonstrate possible design features.
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Again, the process begins with concept sketches. This is a
concept for a stereo LCD television.
Note: time is very important. The goal of sketching andmodeling is to explore and obtain the necessary answers to
questions as quickly as possible. A model created demands
for concentration and time .else purpose is not solved.
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This is an early stage model based upon the 2D sketch that allowedthe designer to explore size, form and kinematics aspects of the
idea. It is made from foam core, foam, and some copper and PVC
tubing for the handle and pivot pins.
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This picture shows a visual mockup/visual model of the TV
concept. This is NOT a model. However, the slide gives an
indication of what follows in the mockup and detailing phases of thedevelopment process. When taking photographs, placing a relevant
object in the vicinity of the model provides information about both
scale and intended use.
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Another sketch for a TV concept using colour LCD technology.
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The first model, made mostly of foam and
foam core, illustrates the user features of the
concept.
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This is a later and more carefully detailed model for the
same idea. It took 3 days to make. the value to the model is
added by efficient use of time.
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Materials:
In this section we will introduce four common modeling
materials and describe their properties. These materials are
foam,thermocol cardboard, foam core and Honeycomb board,
mount board.
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Foam is a lay term for the family of PU foams. Depending
on the manufacturer and requirements it varies in density.In most cases the higher density blue material is easier to
work with but it may not always be available.
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Thermocol is a good material to use when you need to make
sculptural forms or models that need to be solid. The material is
easy to cut and shape with hand tools and is fairly inexpensive
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Corrugated board is a paper product comprising of a medium (the
inner fluted part) sandwiched between linerboards (the outer
paper faces). It is available in a variety of thicknesses and
numbers of plys. It is very good for creating strong structuresthrough folding. It is also a very cost effective way to build large
scale models. Used boxes or clean sheets sold in art supply stores
are good sources for the material.
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Cardboard is quite anisotropic, so planning is required to correctly
orient the grain to obtain desired structural characteristics in amodel. Additionally, it can only be bent in two dimensions.
Cardboard is not suitable for creating surfaces that are curved in 3
dimensions.
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Foam core is also a sheet material, like cardboard. It is available inthickness from 1/8" to 1". The inner medium is foam and the outer
liner is a filled, high quality paper board. Foam core can be
purchased at art supply stores and it is fairly expensive comparedto cardboard. It is usually reserved for applications which demand
a higher degree of finish or refinement than corrugated cardboard
can accommodate.
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Foam core can be bent and worked much like cardboard.
However, it is much less anisotropic than cardboard.
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Compared to both cardboard and foam core, it is quite expensive.
However, it has good structural characteristics. If parts of a model are
going to be heavily loaded (such as stood on by potential users) this
may be the material to use. However, the bending and forming
capabilities of the material are very limited.
Honeycomb board is a
sheet material in which themedium is made from a
paperboard honeycomb.
The medium is sandwichedbetween paperboard liners.
The material is available in
thickness of 1/2" to 3".
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Cutting
This section described the basic cutting techniques when usingthermocol. Warning: cutting thermocol with a long knife can be
quite dangerous. Friction between the blade and thermocol
tempts one to force the knife, causing the material to tear out
and the knife to slip, sometimes resulting in severe cuts. The
cutting technique described in this section using a hot wire
cutter is a safe way to cut thermocol and usually provides a
higher quality cut.
Modeling in Foam and Thermocol
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Hot wire cutters come in many forms. It is very simple to
construct. A 20 Amp, 12V battery charger is connected to a nickel-
chromium wire which warms when current passes through it. The
wire is held in tension to create a vertical cutting blade. The main
drawback of the hot wire cutter is that fumes are created. The
vapors are not toxic, but they are a mild irritant. There is therefore
a need of ventilation duct near the hot wire cutter.
A hot element can be used tocut the Thermocol by melting
through it.
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A jig is a figure that holds a
part in a particular
orientation and can also
help control or restrict the
motion of the work-piece.
In the picture above,
cardboard has beenconstructed to help orient
part of the dashboard
Guides:
Obtaining really smooth cuts on the hot wire cutter requires someskill. A fence is good for straight cuts. However, for more complex
shapes it is often worth making simple jigs or templates.
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The jig takes about few minutes to build but without it, it wouldnot be possible to cut the part with sufficient precision.
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Paper templates are useful for complex
details such as grills. Templates can be cut
from heavy paper or any material that will
not melt when in contact with the hot
wire.
Once the templates are attached to thefoam block, the shape can be cut using the
hot wire, making sure that the wire
follows the template edges.
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Double sided tape is a simple and reliable way to join thermocol. It isfast, surprisingly strong and, removable (with care). Clamping is not
required.The main disadvantage is that the double sided tape does not
cut well on the hot wire.
Fastening :
One of the easiest
ways to build
thermocol appearance
models is todecompose the object
into easy- to-make
shapes and thenassemble them to form
the complete artifact.
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You can also attach thermocol
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You can also attach thermocol
using spray glue (we can useindustrial grade chloroform ).Put
a moderate coating of spray glue
on the faces to be joined and then
clamp them together for at least
15 minutes.
This will form a permanent bond
because the spray glue chemicallydissolves the foam. This is not an
intended use for spray glue.
The advantage of this method is that it creates a very tight permanentjoint that cuts very well on the hot wire. The disadvantages are that it
requires clamping, time to dry and is suitable only for smaller objects.
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Water-based bonding gums also can
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The pieces will now be permanently joined. The
advantages of this adhesive is that it adheres on contact without
clamping and that it is good for joining large surfaces. The
disadvantages are that you have only one shot at positioning the
pieces as they adhere immediately and that the glue layer cuts
poorly on the hot wire.
g g
be used for joining foam.NEVER
use organic solvent base gluesbecause they will dissolve the foam.
To join two pieces, spread a thin
layer over both surfaces to be joined.Allow the glue to dry to a light tack.
Then, press the pieces together
firmly to ensure contact between thetwo faces.
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This section describes techniques other than the hot wire that can
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The surform is a rasp-like tool.
The cutting surface isexpanded metal. It is very
effective for sculpting and
removing large quantities ofmaterials. The tool leaves a
rough finish that usually
requires additional sanding.
Care must be taken to avoid
tearing out chunks of foam.
This section describes techniques other than the hot wire that can
be used to shape thermocol,foam
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Riflers are rasp or file-like tools that come in a variety of shapes
and sizes. They are appropriate for making fine details such as
parting lines or small concave areas.
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Sand paper comes in variety of grits and should be used in a
sequence of increasingly finer grits. Gross shaping or the removal
of surform marks can be done in thermocol, foam with 80 gradepaper. The 100 and 200 can be used subsequently if a very
smoothly sanded foam model is desired. 150 grade is usually
sufficient to remove hot wire marks.
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When sanding it is quite easy to tear out pieces of the
foam. Take care to avoid digging the edges of the paperinto the foam. Practice a bit first before tackling a piece
you have invested your time in. Always wear a dust
mask when sanding.
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In many cases painting an
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In many cases painting an
sketch model is a waste of timeand can make the models look
worse. Before painting, think
carefully about whether thepaint will allow you to learn or
evaluate anything that is not
possible when unpainted. If
there is not a good reason to
paint, don't waste your time. If
you do paint, only use a water-
based latex or acrylic paint. DONOT use oil or lacquer-based
paints, If you do ...
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Examples on cardboard/paper models
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This section and figure outlines the key points for safely cuttingcardboard. The most important thing is to have a very sharp
knife. The best knives are those having blades with tips that can
be snapped off to give a new cutting point.
The techniques for cutting, bending and making shapes incardboard are described.
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As a rule of thumb, the cutting tip
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Cardboard is a material that works best when bending is used to make
shapes. If you find yourself gluing several pieces of flat cardboardtogether to make a shape you are probably not using the material
effectively. Sharp corners can be made by compressing the flutes at
the location you want to make a bend.
is too dull after cutting 10 feet of
cardboard. Cutting without glass
base will lead to quick decay of
your blade.Leaving your blade
exposed to moisture also blunts theedge. Use the blade at a slant angle
to get sharp cut.Select for the
thickness of blade in relation to thethickness of board.
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Dimensional tolerance is an issue
h b di db d Th
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when bending cardboard. The
following slides illustrate thispoint. For the best control of
where a bend occurs, place it
across the grain as shown in thepicture. The layout lines for the
bends are 10cm apart
A straight edge is then used to
crush the flutes under the bend
layout lines.
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Making gentle curves
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Cardboard can also be bent in
gradual curves by using relief
cuts. An example is shown above.
This technique works best whenbending along the grain, but is OK
across the grain.
Once the flutes are crushed thecardboard will bend in very crisp
and straight lines.
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To make the gentle curve, parallel layout lines are drawn between the
flutes (when bending along the grain) or roughly 1 cm apart when
bending across the grain. Then a series of scoring cuts along the layout
lines are made, cutting only through the top piece of linerboard. In the
areas of the relief cut the cardboard may be bent like a sheet of paper.
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Trying to cut holes in cardboard
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for hinges or otherwise can be
frustrating when using the
wrong tool (i.e., a knife). A
leather punch is the tool to use
for such applications. Theycome in a wide variety of sizes
(from about 1/8" to 2").
Using the leather punch a hole is
created by giving the punch a
sharp tap with a mallet. Be surethe cardboard is supported by a
firm surface.
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Fastening
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Any of the glue works well with cardboard.SR gum glue is a
good solution for cardboard. Place a small bead of glue along the
joint and then hold the pieces together until the glue sets.It comes
in varieties with different melting points and strengths.
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When cardboard is folded into sections, strong and stiff structures
can be created. Note the grain orientation in this example. If the
grain had been longitudinally oriented the sides would be prone to
local buckling under load.
Structures
PEMP- PDN 511
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8/2/2019 13 Model Making I
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M.S Ramaiah School of Advanced Studies - Bangalore 65
Summary The session develops an ability to understandmaterials and their applications and apply them to
communicate the design. It helps in understanding the necessity of model
making in Product design cycle.
It gives insight to Fabricate and form models thatshow an understanding of technical skills and arehighly resolved and finished.
It guides to Capably present, exhibit and recordwork. It instructs to Demonstrate safe working practice
for Model Making.