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Ciba Specialty Chemicals
Value beyond chemistry
Dyeing polyamide/elastane blends Ciba® TECTILON® — Ciba® ERIONYL® A — Ciba® LANASET® — Ciba® POLAR® dyes
Dyeing polyamide/elastane blends
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Content
CH 1 : Description 1
Characteristics and benefits of the Ciba concept for polyamide/elastane 1
General 2
Outlets 2
Polyamide fibers 2
Elastane fibers 3
General precautions (storage) 3
Processing routes 4
Relaxation 4
Heat setting 4
Processing of circular knits 4
Pretreatment 4
Scouring/relaxation 4
Bleaching/fluorescent whitening 5
Dyeing machines 5
Dye selection 6
Ciba® TECTILON® acid dyes 7
Ciba® ERIONYL® A acid dyes 8
Ciba® LANASET® acid/metal complex dyes 9
Recommendations for combination shades 10
Dyeing 12
Parameters influencing dyeing 12
Dissolving the dyes 12
Dyeing chemicals 13
Dyeing procedures 14
Ciba® TECTILON®, Ciba® ERIONYL® A and Ciba® POLAR® acid dyes 14
Ciba® LANASET® acid/metal complex dyes 15
Modified dyeing method for good leveling 16
Improving wet fastness properties 17
Aftertreatment in a fresh bath 17
Double aftertreatment for very high requirements 18
Finishing 19
Shading 19
Partial and radical stripping of faulty dyeings 19
Dyeing polyamide/elastane blends
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Microfibers 20
Continuous dyeing of narrow fabrics 21
General 21
Steaming 22
Washing off and aftertreatment 22
Textile auxiliaries 23
Ciba® ALBEGAL® SET 23
Ciba® AVIVAN® SO NEW 23
CIBAFAST® AO 23
CIBAFIX® CL 23
CIBAFIX® ECO 23
CIBAFIX® PAS 23
CIBAFLOW® CIR 23
CIBAFLOW® JET 23
CIBAFLUID® C 23
CIBAFLUID® U 23
Ciba® CLARITE® PS 24
Ciba® FUMEXOL® DF 24
Ciba® HYDROPHOBOL® XAN 24
Ciba® IRGAPADOL® PN NEW 24
Ciba® INVADINE® DA 24
Ciba® INVADINE® LUN 24
Ciba® INVADINE® PBN 24
Ciba® INVATEX® CS 24
Ciba® MEGASOFT® JET-LF 25
Ciba® OLEOPHOBOL® S 25
Ciba® OLEOPHOBOL® 7713 25
Ciba® TINEGAL® W 25
Ciba® UNIVADINE® DP 25
Ciba® UNIVADINE® MC NEW 25
Ciba® UNIVADINE® PA NEW 25
Ciba® UNIVADINE® NT NEW 25
Ciba® ULTRAVON® EL 25
Ciba® ULTRATEX® UM NEW 25
Ciba® UVITEX® BHT liq. 115% 26
Ciba® UVITEX® CF liq. 200% 26
Ciba® UVITEX® NFW liq. 26
Ciba® UVITEX® PLF liq. 26
Ciba® ZEROSTAT® AT NEW 26
Dyeing polyamide/elastane blends
IV
CH 2 : Dyes 28
Ciba® TECTILON® acid dyes 28
Ciba® ERIONYL® A acid dyes 32
Ciba® LANASET® acid/metal complex dyes 39
Ciba® POLAR® acid dyes 46
Notes on the pattern section 50
Standard dyeings 50
Fastness properties 50
Artificial light/Philips TL 84 51
Dischargeability 51
Build up 51
Migration 52
Barriness 52
CH 3 : Auxiliaries 53
Ciba® ALBEGAL® SET leveling agent 53
CIBAFAST® AO anti oxidant for polyamide 54
CIBAFIX® CL chlorine fastness improver 55
CIBAFIX® PAS fixative for polyamide 56
CIBAFIX® ECO fixative for cellulose 57
CIBAFLOW® CIR penetration accelerant 58
CIBAFLOW® JET penetration accelerant 59
CIBAFLUID® C lubricant 60
Ciba® UNIVADINE® MC NEW leveling agent for polyamide 61
Ciba® UNIVADINE PA NEW leveling agent for acid dyes / Ciba® UNIVADINE NT NEW leveling agent for acid dyes 62
CH 4 : Miscellaneous 63
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CH 1 : Description
Characteristics and benefits of the Ciba concept for polyamide/elastane
Properties Customer benefits Broad dye selection ● brilliant shades with high wet and light fastness
● brilliant and restrained combination shades at all
depths
● flexibility for meeting changing market needs and
fashion trends
3 compact ranges with similar dyeing
behavior
Supported by selected brilliant acid dyes
● targeted dye selection for all requirements
● excellent compatibility
● easy dye selection
High fastness properties fulfilling various
requirements
● high light fastness for pale shades (TECTILON)
● high wet fastness for deep shades (LANASET)
● tailor-made products for all requirements
● suitable for Oeko-Tex Standard 100
Simple dyeing procedures ● cost effective day-to-day production
● safe and robust processes
High exhaustion ● good laboratory-to-bulk transfer
● excellent reproducibility
● minimal effluent pollution
Controlled elastane staining for all
requirements
● dye selection for tone-in-tone staining
● selected dyes give good reservation of elastane
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General This pattern card provides recommendations on dyeing polyamide/elastane blends. All dyes used for polyamide stain elastane to a greater or lesser extent, therefore the wet fastness level on this blend is usually lower than on pure polyamide.
The dyes recommended for polyamide /elastane in this pattern card are:
● TECTILON dyes (acid dyes)
● ERIONYL A dyes (acid dyes)
● LANASET dyes (modified 1:2 metal complex and reactive dyes)
● POLAR dyes (acid dyes)
The ranges complement each other in their dyeing properties, and enable the different requirements in the
various outlets for polyamide/elastane material to be met.
The pattern card contains useful information on pretreatment, bleaching/fluorescent whitening, dye selection, compatibility, dyeing procedures and textile auxiliaries. Dyeing parameters are also detailed.
All dyes are illustrated as self shades on a representative swimwear fabric made from 40 denier extra dull PA 6 yarn blended with 20% elastane. All fastness data and details of application properties in this pattern card were tested on this material.
Outlets Textured and non-textured filament and staple fiber yarns are blended with elastane fibers to make a variety of knitted and woven elastic apparel e.g.: ● sports and swimwear ● underwear and foundation garments ● pantyhose and therapeutic elastic stockings ● elastic ribbons and tapes ● tulle and lace
Polyamide fibers Polyamide belongs to the polycondensate group of fibers, the most important of these being PA 6 (perlon type) and PA 66 (nylon type), which differ somewhat in their physical and dyeing properties.
The perlon type is slightly less temperature-resistant, but easier to dye. Somewhat better fastness properties can be expected with the nylon types.
The following fiber properties and/or pretreatment processes are among the parameters that can influence the result.
Fiber surface/cross section (round, trilobal, etc.) The more highly structured and the larger the surface, the lower the color strength and thus the lower the light fastness.
Fineness (dtex) The finer the fibers or fibrils, the lower the color strength and the wet fastness properties.
Delustring The higher the degree of delustring, the lower the color strength and thus the lower the light fastness.
Texturing Color strength is lower on textured than on smooth yarns.
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Elastane fibers Elastane fibers (EL) consist of at least 85% polyurethane, built up of linear macromolecules arranged in
segments. The macromolecules contain alternating hard and soft segments. The hard segments (short
crystalline zones) impart stability to the fiber, the soft segments, which are long, unstructured and flexible,
give the polymer its rubber-like stretchiness. Elastane fibers can be stretched four to seven times their initial
length and spring back to the original length when the tension is released.
Elastane fibers are composed of fused filaments, fineness range 11–2500 dtex. They are available in dull
white, semi-transparent, bright and clear versions.
Elastane in blends with polyamide is used bare (foundation wear, swimwear, circular knits etc.) or covered by
PA (hosiery, socks, narrow fabrics, woven).
Elastane fibers are often stained by acid and metal complex dyes, but it is difficult to achieve tone-in-tone
effects, especially with the dull types used bare (not covered). Stretching such kind of fabrics can lead to
“grin through” of the elastic component. With the transparent types of elastane these undesirable features
are less marked.
Elastane fibers are resistant to acids, alkalis, oxidizing and reducing agents under the usual pretreatment,
dyeing and finishing conditions. Chlorine bleaching agents cause loss of strength and discoloration. There
are specific types of elastane, which are recommended for swimwear.
General precautions (storage) During spinning and winding of elastane high amounts of silicone oils and other lubricants are used. During
weaving and knitting further oils and auxiliaries are applied for good running properties. Degradation of these
products during long-term storage can lead to yellowing or, even worse, to a reduction of elasticity. A further
problem could be so called “cold setting”, causing permanent crease marks. Circular knit goods with a high
content of elastane are preferably cut directly on the knitting machine and rolled in open-width form.
These problems are made worse by improper storage conditions in warehouses, which are in most cases not
air-conditioned or where exhaust fumes from trucks and forklifts are present. Sunlight can also aggravate
degradation (outdoor storage). If storage periods of more than 3 months are not avoidable, the fabrics
should be sealed in plastic film which is impervious to both air and light.
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Processing routes Most commonly relaxation and heat setting are the first steps prior to scouring. This is the more economical
route but it entails risks:
● during heat setting impurities and degradation products of lubricants can be baked into the fabric, forming
stains which resist even harsh scouring.
● heavy fumes can be created during heat setting, causing environmental problems and staining of the
stenter by condensation products.
If the above problems occur, scouring (i.e. on a soft flow jet) before heat setting is a good remedy. This
scouring step will also induce proper relaxation of the fabric so that further steam relaxation before heat
setting is not necessary.
Setting after dyeing can cause color changes through fiber yellowing or reduction of wet fastness owing to
thermomigration of dyes. Pre-setting conditions are therefore always more severe in order to allow post-
setting under milder conditions.
Relaxation During weaving or knitting the elastic yarns are under a certain tension, which is then incorporated in the
fabric. Relaxation prior to heat setting is an important part of processing elastic fabrics as it avoids rope
marks and puckering during dyeing and guarantees good dimensional stability. Depending on the processing
route, relaxation is done:
● by steaming (steam table or steam box in front of the stenter before heat-setting)
● in the pre-scouring bath before heat setting.
Heat setting Open width heat setting controlled by temperature, overfeed and holding to width determines the desired
stretch level as well as the final fabric weight and width.
Circular knitted material shows less tendency to selvage curling during dyeing if properly heat-set prior to
dyeing.
Heat setting is performed at 180 ~ 190°C/356 ~ 374°F for 30 ~ 45 sec. Higher temperatures cause
yellowing of elastane and reduction of elasticity.
Processing of circular knits Presetting of circular knitted fabrics necessitates slitting of the tubular rope. During dyeing the disadvantage
is curling of the selvages of the open width material, entailing a high risk of unlevelness. This risk can be
reduced by:
● gluing or gumming the selvages with water resistant products
● sewing the fabric into tubular form (labor intensive!)
● using air-flow type dyeing machines
Alternatively, if a special heat-setting machine for tubular material is used, the fabrics can be dyed in the
tubular make-up form without any problems.
Pretreatment
Scouring/relaxation
Silicone oils and lubricants should be thoroughly removed from the fabric before dyeing. They have a
negative influence on leveling of dyes, resulting in reduced fastness and limited build up.
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Suggested recipe 1.0–3.0 g/L INVADINE DA or ULTRAVON EL
0.5–2.0 g/L INVATEX CS
1.0–3.0 g/L soda ash
liquor ratio 10:1 to 20:1
20–30 min at 60–90°C/140–194°F
hot rinse
A very essential part of the scouring process is the following rinse. The scouring liquor should never be cooled by rinsing with cold water because the emulsified oils will precipitate again, leaving spots on the textile. The most efficient routine is to give a good overflow rinse with hot water, then drain the machine and use cold water only in the final rinse before dyeing.
Bleaching/fluorescent whitening A high proportion of polyamide goes into white goods. Typical items are locknit charmeuse for underwear, lace and foundation garments. The usual reduction bleach is generally not sufficient to achieve the required degree of whiteness. The goods must therefore be fluorescent whitened in addition, preferably using products that are stable in the reduction bleach bath.
Suggested recipe 1.0–2.0 g/L INVADINE DA or ULTRAVON EL
3.0–5.0 g/L stabilized sodium dithionite, e.g. CLARITE PS
x g/L fluorescent whitening agent
liquor ratio 10:1 to 20:1
45–60 min at 75–80°C/167–176°F
Rinse and add 0.5 ml/L hydrogen peroxide 35% to the final rinsing bath to
remove residual sulfurous compounds.
If required, a fluorescent whitening agent (FWA) can be added to the reduction bleaching bath. The following FWAs can be used, depending on required shade. Care must be taken to adjust the pH to that most suitable for the respective product.
FWA Required amount pH Shade
UVITEX NFW liq. 0.5–2.0% 4–6 violet
UVITEX PLF liq. 0.5–2.5% 4–6 slightly reddish
UVITEX CF liq. 200% 0.5–2.0% 6–7 red
UVITEX BHT liq. 115% 0.75–3.0% 7 neutral blue
Dyeing machines High temperature and mechanical stress on the material during the dyeing process are factors which can cause a loss of elasticity. The sensitivity of the elastic material to the mechanical dyeing conditions is dependent on the content of elastane. The most sensitive are fabrics with more than 25% elastane, and to preserve their elasticity only beam dyeing machines are recommended for them.
Textiles containing more than 10% elastane should be dyed on so-called soft flow jets. The circulation of the rope of textile is very smooth and soft for two reasons: ● very short distance between liquor surface and winch ● fully flooded material transportation through the dye liquor.
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Fabrics with less than 10% elastane can be dyed on modern air jets; they have a very low liquor ratio and their high speed guarantees good levelness. They are more useful than conventional jets for elastane fabrics because the air-flow used to transport the fabric reduces the liquor content in the textile, the wet fabric is therefore lighter and less stretched when pulled through the transportation unit.
A further advantage of this machine type is better opening of the rope during dyeing; this means less curling
of the selvages of open width circular knits.
Soft flow jets Air flow jets
● very low stretch due to short distance between liquor and winch
● good opening of the material (air)
● fully flooded material transportation ● guided transportation in layers through the machine
● ideal for most sensitive material with a high elastane content
● higher tension on the material than in soft flow jets
● fairly high liquor ratio ● very short liquor ratio
Dye selection
General Widely varying substrate forms and end products mean that the different requirements of polyamide dyeing cannot be covered by a single dye range. Selective use of the different ranges allows the different requirements to be met.
Ciba® TECTILON® acid dyes TECTILON dyes are recommended for pale and medium shades, as wet fastness of deep dyeings is too low. The big advantage of these dyes lies in their outstanding leveling properties.
Ciba® ERIONYL® A acid dyes ERIONYL A dyes have higher wet fastness than TECTILON dyes and are thus mainly used for medium and deep shades. Deep dyeings may require aftertreatment to achieve the required wet fastness standard.
Ciba® LANASET® acid/metal complex dyes LANASET dyes are used in particular for medium to very deep shades. They generally do not require aftertreatment to achieve good wet fastness.
Ciba® POLAR® acid dyes POLAR dyes are brilliant highly fast acid dyes and complement the PA concept in the very brilliant shade areas.
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Ciba® TECTILON® acid dyes
Main characteristics
Compact range for bright and dull shades at pale to medium depths.
Low-molecular, monosulfonated acid dyes with very good migration and leveling properties.
Properties
● High light fastness, including in pale shades
● Outstanding migration and excellent leveling properties
● Very good coverage of physical affinity differences
● Ideal for pantyhose shades and typical pale underwear shades
● Fully compatible (trichromatic systems)
● Metal-free
● Simple dyeing procedure
Property profile
Wet fastness properties: SD 1/1, staining of PA, assessment against gray scale
Other properties: 1 = lowest, 5 = highest rating
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Ciba® ERIONYL® A acid dyes
Main characteristics
A compatible range for a broad shade spectrum, including navy and black, and additional dyes for brilliant
fashion shades.
Monosulfonated and disulfonated acid dyes with medium to good migration and leveling properties.
Properties
● Good build up to deep shades on different types of polyamide
● Medium to very good light fastness properties
● Good wet fastness properties to medium shades; deep shades require aftertreatment
● Good coverage of physical barriness with the addition of a leveling agent
● Compatible dyes for a wide range of shades; on their own for brilliant fashion shades. Selected POLAR dyes supplement this shade area.
● Medium to good migration
Property profile
Wet fastness properties: SD 1/1, staining of PA, assessment against gray scale
Other properties: 1 = lowest, 5 = highest rating
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Ciba® LANASET® acid/metal complex dyes
Main characteristics
Broad, well-balanced shade range; particularly suitable for deep shades.
Modified 1:2 metal complex and reactive dyes with medium migration and leveling properties.
Properties
● Very good build up on different types of polyamide (microfibers)
● High light fastness at all shade depths
● Very high wet fastness properties, including in deep shades
● Medium migration, moderate coverage of physical affinity differences in the fiber. A new leveling agent and a modified dyeing procedure can help to overcome these limitations
● Good compatibility if recommendations are followed
Property profile
Wet fastness properties: SD 1/1, staining of PA, assessment against gray scale
Other properties: 1 = lowest, 5 = highest rating
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Recommendations for combination shades TECTILON, ERIONYL and LANASET dyes have their specific properties and applications. Mixing products from
the different ranges is not recommended.
Ciba® TECTILON® acid dyes
All products within the range can be mixed with one another as required.
Trichromatic dyes: TECTILON Yellow 3R 200%
TECTILON Red 2B 200%
TECTILON Blue 4R-01 200%
Supplementary dyes:
(for green shades and to correct
shade change in artificial light)
TECTILON Yellow 2G 200%
TECTILON Blue 6G 200%
Ciba® ERIONYL® A acid dyes
This range contains trichromatic dyes for a wide shade spectrum and supplementary dyes for brilliant fashion
shades.
Trichromatic dyes: ERIONYL Yellow A-R
ERIONYL Red A-2BF
ERIONYL Bordeaux A-5B
ERIONYL Blue A-R
Ciba® LANASET® acid/metal complex dyes
When mixing LANASET dyes, certain rules should be observed. It is advisable to use the dye closest in color
to that required and to shade as appropriate. The following LANASET dyes are highly suitable for mixing and
shading, allowing a wide shade range to be covered:
LANASET Yellow 2R
LANASET Red G
LANASET Gray G
Ciba® POLAR® acid dyes
These dyes are used for self shades whenever high brilliancy is required.
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Table 1 : Recommendations for combination shades
Shade area Yellow Orange Scarlet/
red
Bor-
deaux
Violet Blue Blue-
green/
tur-
quoise
Green/
olive
Brown/
beige/
gray
Navy Black
TECTILON
Yellow 2G
Yellow 3R ∆
Red 2B ∆
Blue 4R-01 ∆
Blue 6G
ERIONYL A
Yellow A-3G
Yellow A-R ∆
Red A-3G
Red A-2BF ∆
Red A-3B
Bord. A-5B ∆
Violet A-B
Blue A-R ∆
Blue A-4G
Turquoise A-G
Green A-BG
Navy A-R
Black M-R
Black M-BN
LANASET
Yellow 4GN
Yellow 2R
Orange RN
Brown G-01
Brown B
Red G
Red 2B
Bordeaux B
Violet B
Blue 2R
Blue 5G
Green B
Gray G
Navy R
Black B
= basis = shading component ∆ = trichromatic dye
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Dyeing
Parameters influencing dyeing
Dyeing temperature Elastane fibers are sensitive to high temperatures. To preserve their elasticity dyeing temperatures above the
boil are not recommended.
Dyeing pH
The optimum pH varies with type of dye, shade depth and type of fiber. It is advisable to adjust the pH with
a buffer.
pH 4.5 5 5.5 6 6.5 7 8
Sodium acetate or
ammonium acetate g/L 0.5 1 2 2 2–3 — —
Acetic acid 80% ml/L 0.5 0.4 0.3 — — — —
Monosodium phosphate g/L — — — 2 1.5 0.5 —
Disodium phosphate g/L — — — 0.5 1 1.5 2
The pH depends closely on the process water, and the above figures should thus be regarded as guidelines. A
rise in pH is to be expected on heating permutit water.
Migration The movement of the dye in or on the substrate from points of higher to points of lower concentration is known as migration. Migration depends primarily on the constitution of the dye, but is also affected to a varying degree by the type of fiber and treatment conditions (pH, auxiliaries, temperature, time). Migration is an indication of the leveling power of a dye.
Barriness Production-related physical and chemical differences in the fiber material and also stretching differences can result in barriness. Barriness can be covered to varying degrees by selecting suitable dyes and using appropriate dyeing auxiliaries and procedures.
Build up Build up refers to the maximum shade depth achieved with a specific dye. It is primarily determined by the dye’s chemical constitution. Fiber properties, especially the saturation limit, also play a role.
Blocking
Mutual displacement of individual acid dyes from the fiber during dyeing is known as blocking. This effect
depends mainly on dye constitution, but also on dye concentration, fiber saturation, auxiliaries, pH and
temperature. Thus disulfo dyes on polyamide are blocked to a varying degree by monosulfo dyes. Dye
selection plays an important role in preventing blocking (see『Recommendations for combination
shades』page 10, 『Table 1 : Recommendations for combination shades』page 11).
Dissolving the dyes ● Paste the dye cold with soft water ● Add hot water (60–90°C/140–194°F) and boil up briefly with live steam if necessary ● Stir thoroughly (with rapid stirrer if necessary)
Auxiliaries and chemicals should not be added during dissolving. The dye solution should always be added to the dyebath through a strainer or sieve. For further details on solubility of the individual dyes, please see the fastness tables in the pattern section. The temperature of dye solutions containing LANASET Red 2B should not exceed 60°C/140°F.
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Dyeing chemicals
Penetration accelerants
These products are added to the dyebath to de-aerate and rapidly wet out the goods. They also have a foam-
suppressing effect. The penetration accelerants recommended here, CIBAFLOW CIR and CIBAFLOW JET,
have specific applications. CIBAFLOW CIR achieves a balance between wetting out, de-aerating and
defoaming. It is mainly used in circulating liquor dyeing (beam dyeing). CIBAFLOW JET has a durable
antifoam effect and is used in jet dyeing.
Leveling agents for acid dyes
These retard exhaustion of the dyes, promote migration and thus improve levelness. UNIVADINE PA NEW
and UNIVADINE NT NEW have affinity for the fiber and are used in dyeing with TECTILON, ERIONYL and
POLAR dyes. UNIVADINE PA NEW fulfils highest standards of levelness with balanced migration, covering
of barriness, and retarding effect.
Leveling agents for LANASET dyes
ALBEGAL SET, which has affinity for the dye and the fiber, is used with LANASET dyes. UNIVADINE MC
NEW is especially suitable for promoting coverage of barriness caused by physical differences in the fiber
structure (crystallinity, cross section).
The products are suitable for use in dyeing polyamide fibers in all forms at the boil and under HT conditions.
Crease prevention
CIBAFLUID U and CIBAFLUID C are used for crease prevention in piece dyeing. They prevent cracks,
creases and abrasion marks in winches and jets without impairing the quality of the dyeing. These products
also enhance the running properties of elastic fabrics, resulting in less tension during dyeing and therefore
better preservation of the elasticity.
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Dyeing procedures
Ciba® TECTILON®, Ciba® ERIONYL® A and Ciba® POLAR® acid dyes
Winch/overflow/jet
Beam/circulating liquor dyeing machine
A 0.3–0.5 g/L CIBAFLOW CIR or CIBAFLOW JET
1–2 g/L CIBAFLUID U or CIBAFLUID C
1.5–3 % UNIVADINE PA NEW or UNIVADINE NT NEW
0.5–2 g/L ammonium acetate or sodium acetate
pH 4.5–7 with acetic acid
B x % TECTILON or ERIONYL A dye
ERIONYL Black M-R: 2–4% acetic acid 80%
ERIONYL Black M-BN: 2% acetic acid 80% and 0.5–1.0 g/L UNIVADINE DP
Notes
TECTILON dyes are generally applied at pH 4.5–5.5, Ciba® ERIONYL® A dyes at slightly higher pH (5–6). For
Ciba® ERIONYL® Turquoise A-G see『ERIONYL Turquoise A-G』page 34. A pH at around the top limit is
advisable for pale dyeings. Wet fastness properties can be improved by aftertreatment (see『Improving
wet fastness properties』page 17).
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Ciba® LANASET® acid/metal complex dyes
Winch/overflow/jet
Beam/circulating liquor dyeing machine
*
* Same with『Ciba® TECTILON®, Ciba® ERIONYL® A and Ciba® POLAR® acid dyes』
A 0.3–0.5 g/L CIBAFLOW CIR or CIBAFLOW JET
1–2 g/L CIBAFLUID U or CIBAFLUID C
1–2 % ALBEGAL SET or UNIVADINE MC NEW
1–2 g/L ammonium acetate or sodium acetate
pH 4.5–7 with acetic acid
B x % LANASET dye
LANASET Black B: 1.5-3% acetic acid 80%, pH 4-4.5
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Modified dyeing method for good leveling
Winch/overflow/jet
Beam/circulating liquor dyeing machine
A 0.3–0.5 g/L CIBAFLOW CIR or CIBAFLOW JET
1–2 g/L CIBAFLUID U or CIBAFLUID C
1–2 % ALBEGAL SET or UNIVADINE MC NEW (for LANASET dyes)
1–3 % UNIVADINE PA NEW or UNIVADINE NT NEW (for acid dyes)
2 g/L disodium phosphate (Na2HPO4)
pH 8–8.5
B x % dyes
only for medium shades to ensure full exhaustion:
(C) y % diluted acetic acid or acid donor
Notes
Very high requirements for wash fastness at higher temperatures (60°C/140°F) force the dyer to switch to
high fastness dyes for shade areas where acid leveling dyes are normally used. High fastness dyes tend to be
unlevel and to accentuate physical affinity differences in polyamide fabrics, resulting in barriness. The reason
for this is the very fast first strike of such dyes if applied under slightly acid conditions. Their migration
properties are limited; this means that during heating and boiling there is not much chance to correct initial
unlevelness.
Experience has shown that dyeing at an alkaline pH is a very practical method of slowing down the exhaustion
rate and of greatly improving levelness. Typical pale underwear shades (skin shades) are dyed at pH 8 to 8.5.
This ensures outstanding slow tone-in-tone build up during heating, and full exhaustion at the boil, resulting
in excellent reproducibility.
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Improving wet fastness properties Aftertreatment with CIBAFIX PAS can improve wet fastness properties of the dyes. This is best performed in
a fresh bath.
Aftertreatment can be performed in the exhausted dyebath, but this procedure is not really recommended as
the pH and the presence of nonionic leveling and wetting agents and detergents can severely impair its
efficacy.
Aftertreatment in a fresh bath
A 2–3 % CIBAFIX PAS
B pH 4.5 with acetic acid
Dissolving/diluting CIBAFIX PAS
CIBAFIX PAS can be diluted with cold or warm water in all proportions. The product should not be mixed with
concentrated acetic acid, as this can result in precipitation.
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Double aftertreatment for very high requirements
A 2–3 % CIBAFIX PAS
B pH 4.5 with acetic acid
C 3.0 % CIBAFIX ECO
Notes
With very deep shades as well as with black and navy (dyed with premetallized dyes) on polyamide / elastane
blends, a further aftertreatment enhances fastness still more. After anionic fixation with CIBAFIX PAS the
cationic fixing agent CIBAFIX ECO is applied.
Thorough rinsing after application of CIBAFIX PAS is essential; residues in the bath will cause precipitation
with cationic fixing agents.
As a time-saving alternative, CIBAFIX ECO can also be applied together with a softener in a final pad
treatment before drying on the stenter.
Dyeing polyamide/elastane blends
Ciba Specialty Chemicals 19/63
Finishing
Softening by exhaust method
1–4 g/L MEGASOFT JET-LF
x % acetic acid
pH 5–5.5
20 min at 30–40°C/86–104°F, drain without further rinsing
Softening (and antistatic finish) by padding
10–15 g/L ULTRATEX UM NEW or AVIVAN SO NEW
(5–20 g/L ZEROSTAT AT NEW)
pick up 60–80%, drying
Oil, water and stain repellent finish
5 ml/L INVADINE PBN
1 ml/L acetic acid 80%
40–60 g/L OLEOPHOBOL S or OLEOPHOBOL 7713
0–10 g/L HYDROPHOBOL XAN
pick up 60–80%, rapid curing at 110–180°C/230–356°F (in stages) for 30–40 sec.
Shading If shading is required, the dyebath generally has to be cooled to 60–70°C/140–158°F before the dyes are
added. TECTILON dyes can also be added at temperatures close to the boil with the steam switched off.
Partial and radical stripping of faulty dyeings
Partial stripping If the goods cannot be re-dyed, dyeings that have turned out too deep or slightly unlevel can be partially
stripped or leveled in a fresh bath. The aftertreatment products are removed at the same time.
0.5 g/L CIBAFLOW CIR or CIBAFLOW JET
1–3 % TINEGAL W
pH 8–10 with soda ash
30 min at 98°C/208°F
In critical cases, the treatment can be repeated. Before re-dyeing, the pH must be corrected with acetic acid.
The attainable effects are shown in the table in the pattern section.
Dyeing polyamide/elastane blends
Ciba Specialty Chemicals 20/63
Radical stripping
Dyes can be radically or completely stripped by the following method:
Reduction
3 g/L Decrolin (BASF)
2 % formic acid 85%
30 min at 98°C/208°F
rinse warm and cold
Oxidation stripping with sodium chlorite is unsuitable because elastane fibers are not stable to chlorine.
Stripping can impair light fastness and build up of the dyes. The most suitable method must be determined
by conducting preliminary trials.
Microfibers
General High comfort in wear and easy care make woven and knitted goods of polyamide microfibers popular for
functional leisure and sports wear.
Polyamide microfibers, which are supplied by numerous manufacturers, vary widely in fineness, degree of
delustring, fiber profiles and surface modifications. Brand names include Supplex/Tactel (Du Pont), Meryl
Micro (Rhône-Poulenc, Viscosuisse) and Siks Micro (Snia Fibres).
Microfibers are polyamide filament yarns whose individual filament fineness is less than 1 dtex. Fabrics are
labeled “micro” if at least one system, warp or weft, consists of microfibers.
Fiber Fineness
Coarse > 7 dtex
Medium fine 7–2.4 dtex
Fine 2.4–1 dtex
Micro 1–0.3 dtex
Super fine < 0.3 dtex
Fastness properties
Light and wet fastness properties of polyamide microfibers are often considerably poorer (1/2 ~ 1 rating) than
those of conventional polyamide fibers. Fastness depends closely on the type of fiber.
Dyeing
On account of their extreme fineness, microfibers have several special dyeing characteristics, and these are
discussed below. For other information, please see the general section. Microfiber filament yarns require
higher amounts of dye than conventional filament yarns to achieve a given shade depth.
Fastness properties required of functional clothing are high and not always easy to achieve. TECTILON and ERIONYL A dyes are suitable for pale and medium shades (procedures described on page 14『Dyeing
procedures』). For good build up and high fastness with medium and deep shades, LANASET dyes are
usually required.
Dyeing polyamide/elastane blends
Ciba Specialty Chemicals 21/63
Build up of LANASET dyes at SD 3/1
(on PA 66, standard filament, dtex approx. 0.8/F)
* referred to 2 × N/L or 2 × B/Dk
Continuous dyeing of narrow fabrics
General
Elastic tapes and ribbons constitute a very important segment in the field of narrow fabrics. They are mainly
made from PA/EL in various blend ratios and patterns.
The majority of these narrow fabrics are dyed by the continuous method, as this increases productivity and
allows orders to be fulfilled at short notice. The pad-steam procedure comprises the following steps:
● padding
● fixation
● washing off
● aftertreatment (if required)
● drying
Fastness requirements depend on the end product. As narrow fabrics are frequently used for underwear,
fastness to perspiration and washing are essential. Fastness to rubbing is important with deep dyeings.
Products from the TECTILON, ERIONYL A, LANASET and POLAR ranges are suitable for dyeing. TECTILON
dyes are recommended for pale shades, ERIONYL A and POLAR for medium and deep shades.
LANASET dyes meet very high wet fastness requirements.
The most important criterion for dye selection is adequate solubility at room temperature. Good build up in
the shortest possible steaming time is a major factor too.
Dyeing polyamide/elastane blends
Ciba Specialty Chemicals 22/63
Pad liquor
x g/L TECTILON, ERIONYL, LANASET or POLAR dyes
3–20 g/L IRGAPADOL PN NEW
1 g/L INVADINE LUN
0.5 g/L FUMEXOL DF
y g/L acid
pH adjustment of the pad liquor
Pale shades (< 0.5%)
0.2–0.5 g/L citric acid pH 6
Medium shades (< 1.5%)
1.0–2.0 g/L citric acid pH 5
Deep shades (> 1.5%)
4.0–5.0 g/L citric acid pH 4
Black
3.0 g/L citric acid
3.0 ml/L acetic acid 80% pH 4
Steaming
The fixation of the dyes takes place during steaming. Steaming temperature and time are the key factors for
achieving sufficient build-up and fastness, but too high a steaming temperature can affect the handle.
The usual steaming conditions are 3–6 min. with superheated steam at 100–102°C/212–216°F, very deep
shades and black and navy need up to 8 min. at a temperature of 102–106°C/216–223°F.
Washing off and aftertreatment
Deep shades need efficient aftertreatment. Typical procedure:
● acid shock with 3 ml/L formic acid at 80°C/176°F
● hot rinse at 80°C/176°F with 2 g/L ERIOPON OS
● hot rinse at 80°C/176°F ● 30 g/L CIBAFIX PAS, pH 4.5 (acetic acid) at 70°C/158°F
● 30 g/L CIBAFIX PAS, pH 4.5 (acetic acid) at 70°C/158°F
● softening
Dyeing polyamide/elastane blends
Ciba Specialty Chemicals 23/63
Textile auxiliaries
Products Effects Benefits
Ciba® ALBEGAL® SET leveling of LANASET
dyes
amphoteric
— prevents dye agglomeration
— promotes migration and diffusion
— promotes on-tone build-up with dye combinations
Ciba® AVIVAN® SO
NEW
textile softener
nonionic/cationic
— gives fabrics a soft, smooth handle with a rich silky
touch
— allows production of fabrics with a high whiteness and
minimal shade change
— minimal effect on wet fastness and crocking fastness
— improves tear strength, bursting strength and abrasion
resistance
— reduces risk of needle damage to fabric and hole
formation during garment manufacture and use
CIBAFAST® AO fiber stabilizer, light
fastness improver
anionic
— reduces fiber degradation due to light and especially
heat
— improves light fastness of dyeings in pale and medium
shades
— suitable for all PA6 and PA66
— very good affinity for the fiber and good liquor stability
— metal-free
CIBAFIX® CL chlorine fastness
improver
anionic
— natural product to improve chlorine and wet fastness
(100% biodegradable)
— improves fastness properties of fiber and dyeing
— recommended for all kinds of swimwear fabric
— excellent build up and leveling power
— applicable over a wide pH range (pH 3–6)
— high exhaustion rate
CIBAFIX® ECO fixative
cationic
— for very deep shades to enhance wet fastness
— CIBAFIX ECO is applied on PA/EL after anionic fixation
with CIBAFIX PAS
CIBAFIX® PAS fixative
anionic
— maximum wet fastness improvement
— good dye bath stability in presence of acid
CIBAFLOW® CIR penetration accelerant
anionic
— instant penetration of dye liquor into the textile material
— especially recommended in circulating liquor dyeing
machines (beam, package)
— APEO- and solvent-free
CIBAFLOW® JET penetration, foam-
inhibiting, de-aerating
anionic
— faultless cloth run in jets, no stoppage, no damage to
goods (creases)
— durable antifoam effect
— APEO- and solvent-free
CIBAFLUID® C
CIBAFLUID® U
lubricating, reducing
friction
anionic/nonionic
— no formation of permanent creases during dyeing
— ropes open and displace more easily, therefore
improving levelness
Dyeing polyamide/elastane blends
Ciba Specialty Chemicals 24/63
Products Effects Benefits
Ciba® CLARITE® PS stabilized reduction
bleaching agent
anionic
— improves whiteness on polyamide and in combination
with a peroxide bleach gives a higher and more stable
white on wool, cellulosics and silk
— bleach baths containing CLARITE PS are active longer
than those containing a nonstabilized reduction agent
— high complexing power for heavy metals (e.g. iron)
and alkaline earth ions
— high cleaning action with booster effect on surfactants
— high stability in hard water
Ciba® FUMEXOL® DF foam controlling and
de-aerating agent
nonionic
— prevents and eliminates foam during textile processing
in aqueous media
— strong de-aerating effect and wetting power
— applicable in different processes, in highly alkaline to
acid liquors and at all temperatures
— stable to electrolytes and compatible with enzymes
— free of APEO, solvents and mineral oils
Ciba® HYDROPHOBOL®
XAN
extender
cationic
— optimizing the oil and water repellent effects
Ciba® IRGAPADOL® PN
NEW
padding agent
slightly anionic
— quick and even penetration
— good leveling, no frosting effect on structured material
Ciba® INVADINE® DA wetting agent and
detergent
anionic/nonionic
— low foaming
— for batchwise pretreatment and continuous immersion
processes
— good detergency with excellent emulsifying properties
— all-round applicability through high stability to bleaching
chemicals
— APEO-free
Ciba® INVADINE® LUN detergent, wetting and
de-aerating agent
weakly anionic
— outstanding wetting and de-aerating properties,
including in cold liquors
— enhanced rewetting power
— good detergency and dispersing action
— well suited for washing-off greasy, oily impurities and
pigment soil
Ciba® INVADINE® PBN special wetting agent
anionic
— excellent wetting effect for oil and water repellent
finishes
— avoids build up on rollers, particularly with paraffin
emulsions containing metal salt
— no influence on the water and oil repellent effect
Ciba® INVATEX® CS dispersing and
complexing agent
anionic
— prevents precipitations of metal hydroxides, carbonates
and silicates on goods and machinery
— crystallization-inhibiting properties (threshold-effect)
— enhances the effect of simultaneously applied
detergents and dispersants
— high stability to alkali, oxidation and hydrolysis
Dyeing polyamide/elastane blends
Ciba Specialty Chemicals 25/63
Products Effects Benefits
Ciba® MEGASOFT® JET-
LF
textile softener
nonionic/cationic
— gives fabrics a warm luxurious feel
— very high mechanical stability reduces processing
problems
— improves tear strength, bursting strength and abrasion
resistance
— reduces risk of needle damage to fabric and hole
formation during garment manufacture and use
— applicable with TEFLON finishes
Ciba® OLEOPHOBOL® S oil, water, stain
repellency
cationic
— excellent and durable protection against rain, stains,
dust and dirt
Ciba® OLEOPHOBOL®
7713
oil, water, stain
repellency
cationic
— good, long-lasting water and stain protection
— Laundry Air Dry properties (LAD)
— dust and dirt can easily be shaken or brushed off
Ciba® TINEGAL® W leveling, dye affinity
slightly cationic
— high leveling promoting properties
— especially helpful for shade weakening and correction
of unlevelness
Ciba® UNIVADINE® DP dispersant
anionic
— prevents filtration of dye dispersions in high density
muffs and packages
— improves rubbing fastness
— promotes leveling
— suitable for acid and alkaline conditions
Ciba® UNIVADINE® MC
NEW
leveling of LANASET
dyes
anionic/nonionic
— outstanding coverage of barriness
— improvement of migration of 1:2 metal complex dyes
Ciba® UNIVADINE® PA
NEW
leveling of acid dyes
anionic
— excellent coverage of barriness
— excellent leveling/migration
— no negative blocking or retarding behavior
Ciba® UNIVADINE® NT
NEW
leveling of acid dyes
anionic
— good coverage of barriness
— good leveling/migration behavior
Ciba® ULTRAVON® EL detergent and
dispersant, wetting
agent
anionic
— application in batchwise and underliquor pretreatments
— excellent washing and wetting power
— dispersing effect with crystallizationinhibiting
(threshold) effect
— good cleaning and degreasing properties
— all-round applicability through high stability to bleaching
chemicals
— low foaming, contains no antifoam
Ciba® ULTRATEX® UM
NEW
textile softener
nonionic/cationic
— gives fabrics a very specific soft, silicone-like and bulky
handle
— improves tear strength, bursting strength and abrasion
resistance
— reduces risk of needle damage to fabric and hole
formation during garment manufacture and use
— increases fabric resilience
Dyeing polyamide/elastane blends
Ciba Specialty Chemicals 26/63
Products Effects Benefits
Ciba® UVITEX® BHT liq.
115%
fluorescent whitening
agent
anionic stilbene
derivative
— neutral to blue white shade
— for cellulose, polyamide, wool and silk
— particularly recommended for exhaust application in
reduction bleaches
— very good wash fastness
Ciba® UVITEX® CF liq.
200%
fluorescent whitening
agent
anionic stilbene
derivative
— reddish white shade
— for cellulose, polyamide, wool and silk
— particularly recommended for exhaust application in
reduction bleaches
— very good wash fastness
Ciba® UVITEX® NFW liq. fluorescent whitening
agent
anionic distyryldiphenyl
derivative
— violet white shade
— for polyamide, wool, silk and cellulose
— suitable for exhaust and pad application
— very good stability to reducing agents and acids
— outstanding fastness properties
Ciba® UVITEX® PLF liq. fluorescent whitening
agent
anionic stilbene
derivative
— slightly reddish white shade for polyamide and cellulosic
fibers
— especially recommended when high light fastness is
required
— suitable for exhaust processes, has good leveling
properties
— highly appropriate for whitening of swimwear fabrics
Ciba® ZEROSTAT® AT
NEW
antistatic agent
anionic
— reduces fabric processing problems especially in fabric
cutting and sewing
— reduces static cling during display and wearing of
garments
Dyeing polyamide/elastane blends
Ciba Specialty Chemicals 27/63
Edition 2001/2002
Copyright © 2001 Ciba Specialty Chemicals Inc. All rights reserved.
All product names in capital letters are either registered or pending trademarks and property of Ciba Specialty Chemicals.
IMPORTANT: The following supersedes Buyer’s documents. SELLER MAKES NO REPRESENTATION OR WARRANTY,
EXPRESS OR IMPLIED, INCLUDING OF MERCHANTABILITY OR FITNESS FOR A PARTICULAR
PURPOSE. No statements herein are to be construed as inducements to infringe any relevant patent. Under
no circumstances shall Seller be liable for incidental, consequential or indirect damages for alleged negligence,
breach of warranty, strict liability, tort or contract arising in connection with the product(s). Buyer’s sole
remedy and Seller’s sole liability for any claims shall be Buyer’s purchase price. Data and results are based on
controlled or lab work and must be confirmed by Buyer by testing for the intended conditions of use. The
product(s) has (have) not been tested for, and is (are) therefore not recommended for, uses for which
prolonged contact with mucous membranes, abraded skin, or blood is intended; or for uses for which
implantation within the human body is intended.
Please note that products may differ from country to country. If you have any queries, kindly contact your local Ciba
Specialty Chemicals representative. Further information at website: http://www.cibasc.com
Ciba Specialty Chemicals is a member of:
(Ecological and Toxicological Association of Dyes and Organic Pigments Manufacturers)
641001e.doc — Dec-01, Printed in Switzerland.
Ciba® TECTILON® dyes
Ciba Specialty Chemicals 28/63
CH 2 : Dyes
Ciba Specialty Chemicals
Value beyond chemistry
Ciba® TECTILON® acid dyes
Patterns and properties
Ciba® TECTILON® dyes
Ciba Specialty Chemicals 29/63
Ciba® Tectilon® acid dyes
Yellow 2G 200% Lightfast, bright yellow for self shades. In combination with TECTILON Blue 6G for
brilliant green shades. C.I. Acid Yellow 169
Yellow 3R 200% Highly lightfast trichromatic dye for combination with TECTILON Red 2B and TECTILON
Blue 4R-01. C.I. Acid Yellow 246
Red 2B 200% Trichromatic dye for combination with TECTILON Yellow 3R and TECTILON Blue 4R-01.
C.I. Acid Red 361
Blue 4R-01 200% Trichromatic dye for combination with TECTILON Yellow 3R and TECTILON Red 2B.
Shade shift towards red in artificial light. C.I. Acid Blue 27
Blue 6G 200% For combination with TECTILON Yellow 2G for brilliant green shades, and with
TECTILON Yellow 3R for dull green shades. Shade shift towards green in artificial light.
C.I. Acid Blue 258
Yellow 4R 200% New trichromatic dye for combination with TECTILON Red 2B and TECTILON Blue 4R-
01. C.I. Acid Yellow 219
Blue G-01 200%
Blue 3R KWL
Blue GC-G C.I. Acid Blue 344
Tectilon
Yellow 2G 200%
Tectilon
Blue 4R-01 200%
0.06% 0.8% 0.09% 1.1%
Tectilon
Yellow 3R 200%
Tectilon
Blue 6G 200%
0.05% 0.6% 0.14% 1.7%
TECTILON
Red 2B 200%
0.055% 0.65%
Ciba® TECTILON® dyes
Ciba Specialty Chemicals 30/63
Xenon lamp SD Solubility g/L Tectilon %
1/12 1/3 1/1 30°C 60°C 90°C
Artifi-cial light
TL 84 Build up
Mi- gration
Barri- ness
EL staining
Yellow 2G 200% 0.8 5–6 6 6–7 40 100 100 R Br 4 3–4 3–4 2–3
Yellow 3R 200% 0.6 6 6–7 7 100 100 100 R Br 4 3 3 1–2
Red 2B 200% 0.65 5–6 6 6–7 100 100 100 Y YBr 4 4 4 2
Blue 4R-01 200% 1.1 5 5–6 6 80 80 100 R R 4 4–5 4–5 1–2
Blue 6G 200% 1.7 6 6–7 7 10 10 15 G — 4 3 4–5 2–3
Washing
C06 B2, 50°C
Washing
C06 C2S, 60°C
Washing
AATCC 2A, 49°C Water
Tectilon %
Ch PA WO CO Ch PA WO CO Ch PA WO Ch PA CV
Yellow 2G 200% 0.8 4–5 4–5 4–5 5 3–4 3–4 4 5 4–5 4–5 4 4–5 3 5
4–5 5 4–5 5 4–5 4 4 5 4–5 5 4–5 5 4–5 5
Yellow 3R 200% 0.6 4 4 4–5 5 3 3 3–4 5 3–4 4 4 5 3 5
4–5 4–5 4–5 5 4 3–4 4 5 4–5 4–5 4–5 5 4–5 5
Red 2B 200% 0.65 4–5 3–4 4 4–5 3 2–3 3 4–5 4 2–3 3 4–5 2–3 4–5
4–5 4 4–5 5 4 3 3–4 5 4–5 4 4 4–5 4–5 5
Blue 4R-01 200% 1.1 4 2–3 4 4 3 2–3 3 4–5 3–4 2–3 3 4–5 2–3 4–5
4–5 3–4 4–5 4–5 3–4 3 3–4 4–5 4 4 4 4–5 4–5 5
Blue 6G 200% 1.7 3–4 2–3 4 4–5 2–3 2–3 3 5 3 2–3 2–3 4–5 2–3 5
4–5 3–4 4–5 5 3 3 3–4 5 4 4 3–4 5 4 5
= aftertreated with CIBAFIX® PAS
Sea water Perspiration, alkaline Chlorinated water
mg/L available chlorine Rubbing
Tectilon %
Ch PA CV Ch PA CV 20 50 100 dry wet
Yellow 2G 200% 0.8 4–5 3–4 4–5 4–5 3–4 4–5 4 2–3 W 1–2 W 5 5
5 4–5 5 5 4–5 5 4–5 3 2 W 5 5
Yellow 3R 200% 0.6 4–5 3–4 4–5 4–5 3–4 4–5 3–4 2 W 1 W 5 5
4–5 4–5 5 5 4–5 5 4 2–3 W 1–2 W 5 5
Red 2B 200% 0.65 4–5 3 4–5 4–5 3 4–5 4–5 3 W 1 W 5 5
4–5 4–5 5 5 4–5 5 4–5 3–4 BW 1–2 W 5 5
Blue 4R-01 200% 1.1 4–5 3 4 4–5 3 4 4 2–3 GW 1–2 GW 5 5
4–5 4–5 5 4–5 4 4–5 4 2–3 GDe 1–2 GDe 5 5
Blue 6G 200% 1.7 4–5 3 4–5 4–5 3 4–5 4–5 2–3 GW 1–2 GW 5 5
4–5 4–5 5 4–5 4 5 4 2–3 GW 1–2 GW 5 5
= aftertreated with CIBAFIX® PAS
Ciba® TECTILON® dyes
Ciba Specialty Chemicals 31/63
Dry cleaning
perchloreth. Dry heat
30s/180°C
Reservation staining
of multifiber strip Stripping
Tectilon %
Ch Ch PA CO PES PAN
Discharge-
ability partial % reduction oxidation
Yellow 2G 200% 0.8 4–5 5 5 5 5 5 4 80
4–5 5 5
Yellow 3R 200% 0.6 4–5 5 5 4–5 5 5 5 65
5 5 5
Red 2B 200% 0.65 4–5 5 5 4 5 5 4–5 65 ◨ ◨ 4–5 5 5
Blue 4R-01 200% 1.1 4–5 5 5 4 5 5 2 70 G ◨ 4–5 5 5
Blue 6G 200% 1.7 4–5 5 5 4–5 5 5 2 60 G
4–5 5 5 = aftertreated with CIBAFIX® PAS
Stripping: completely stripped ◨ partially stripped no effect
Ciba® ERIONYL® A dyes
32/63
Ciba Specialty Chemicals
Value beyond chemistry
Ciba® ERIONYL® A acid dyes
Patterns and properties
Ciba® ERIONYL® A dyes
33/63
Ciba® ERIONYL® A acid dyes
Yellow A-3G For self shades, and in combination with ERIONYL Blue A-4G and ERIONYL Turquoise A-
G for brilliant green shades with good light fastness. Causes “catalytic fading” with
ERIONYL Blue A-R. C.I. Acid Yellow 262
Yellow A-R Trichromatic dye for combination with ERIONYL Red A-2BF, ERIONYL Bordeaux A-5B
and ERIONYL Blue A-R. Good build up and balanced dyeing behavior. C.I. Acid Orange
67
Red A-3G For self shades and as a basis for deep red shades with adequate light and wet
fastness. C.I. Acid Red 447
Red A-2BF Trichromatic dye for combination with ERIONYL Yellow A-R and ERIONYL Blue A-R.
Neutral red with high light fastness. C.I. Acid Red 127 ?
Red A-3B On its own for bright, bluish red fashion shades. Light fastness in deep shades
adequate. C.I. Acid Red 131
Bordeaux A-5B Trichromatic dye for combination with ERIONYL Yellow A-R and ERIONYL Blue A-R.
For deep and dull fashion shades with high fastness. C.I. Acid Red 299
Violet A-B
(Lanaset Violet B)
On its own for highly lightfast violet shades. In combination with ERIONYL Red A-2BF,
ERIONYL Red A-3B and ERIONYL Blue A-R for the fashion violet sector. C.I. Acid Violet
109
Blue A-R Trichromatic dye for combination with ERIONYL Yellow A-R, ERIONYL Red A-2BF and
ERIONYL Bordeaux A-5B.
For bright royal blue self shades. Very good levelness, high wet fastness. C.I. Acid
Blue 260
Blue A-4G Greenish blue for green shades in combination with ERIONYL Yellow A-3G and ERIONYL
Green A-BG. To correct shade shift towards green in artificial light.
Turquoise A-G For self shades. Can be shaded with ERIONYL Yellow A-3G for brilliant green shades.
Fairly good build-up on different types of polyamide. To achieve good exhaustion,
dyeing at pH 4.5–5.5 is recommended and the use of ALBEGAL SET instead of
UNIVADINE PA/NT. Barriness largely covered under HT conditions.
Green A-BG Basis for dull green and olive shades with shading dyes ERIONYL Blue A-4G, ERIONYL
Yellow A-3G and ERIONYL Yellow A-R.
Navy A-R
(Navy R)
Neutral, cost-effective navy blue. Can be shaded with ERIONYL Violet A-B, ERIONYL
Blue A-R and ERIONYL Blue A-4G. Blue component for deep olive shades. C.I. Acid
Blue 113
Black M-R Black with high wet fastness. Shade shift in artificial light towards red can be corrected
with ERIONYL Yellow A-R or ERIONYL Blue A-4G. C.I. Acid Black 172
Black M-BN Deep, neutral black with very good build up on different types of polyamide. High light
fastness, wet fastness slightly lower than that of ERIONYL Black M-R. C.I. Acid Black
63:1
Ciba® ERIONYL® A dyes
34/63
ERIONYL
Yellow A-3G
ERIONYL
Blue A-R
0.25% 0.75% 1.5% 0.32% 0.95% 1.9%
ERIONYL
Yellow A-R
ERIONYL
Blue A-4G
0.17% 0.5% 1.0% 0.33% 1.0% 2.0%
ERIONYL
Red A-3G
ERIONYL
Turquoise A-G
0.17% 0.5% 1.0% 0.13% 0.38% 0.75%
ERIONYL
Red A-2BF
ERIONYL
Green A-BG
0.23% 0.7% 1.4% 0.32% 0.95% 1.9%
ERIONYL
Red A-3B
ERIONYL Navy A-R
0.15% 0.45% 0.9% 0.65% 1.0% 2.0%
ERIONYL
Bordeaux A-5B
ERIONYL
Black M-R
0.1% 0.3% 0.6% 2.0% 3.0% 4.0%
ERIONYL
Violet A-B
ERIONYL
Black M-BN
0.25% 0.75% 1.5% 1.9% 2.9% 3.8%
Ciba® ERIONYL® A dyes
35/63
Xenon lamp SD Solubility g/L ERIONYL A %
1/12 1/3 1/1 30°C 60°C 90°C
Artifi-cial light
TL 84 Build up
Mi- gration
Barri- ness
EL staining
Yellow A-3G 1.5 5–6 6 6–7 40 40 50 R RBr 5 2 3–4 3
Yellow A-R 1.0 5 5–6 6–7 20 25 100 R Br 5 2 4 1–2
Red A-3G 1.0 2–3 3 3–4 30 70 100 Y YBr 4 1 3 2G
Red A-2BF 1.4 4–5 5 5–6 80 100 100 Y Y 4 2 3–4 1–2
Red A-3B 0.9 2–3 3 3–4 5 15 70 Y Y 3–4 3 3–4 1–2
Bordeaux A-5B 0.6 4–5 4–5 5 15 15 80 Y BDe 5 3 3–4 1
Violet A-B 1.5 5 5 5–6 40 40 70 R Bl 3–4 2 2–3 3
Blue A-R 1.9 5–6 6 6–7 20 30 80 R R 4 3 3–4 2
Blue A-4G 2.0 5–6 6 6 30 30 80 G Br 4 2 4 2–3
Turquoise A-G 0.75 1–2 2G 3G 30 30 30 G G 2 1 2–3 1–2
Green A-BG 1.9 5–6 5–6 5–6 40 45 55 Y Y 4 2 2 2–3 B
Navy A-R N/L
1.0 —
N/L
4–5
N/Dk
5–6 100 100 100 R R 5 1 1 1–2
Black M-R B/Dk
4.0 —
B/L
6–7
B/Dk
7 60 60 80 R G 4 — — 2–3 R
Black M-BN B/Dk
3.8 —
B/L
7
B/Dk
7–8 30 30 70 R G 5 — — 3
Ciba® ERIONYL® A dyes
36/63
Washing
C06 B2, 50°C
Washing
C06 C2S, 60°C
Washing
AATCC 2A, 49°C Water
ERIONYL A %
Ch PA WO CO Ch PA WO CO Ch PA WO Ch PA CV
Yellow A-3G 1.5 5 4–5 5 5 4–5 4 4–5 5 4–5 4–5 4–5 5 4 5
5 5 5 5 5 4–5 5 5 5 5 4–5 5 4–5 5
Yellow A-R 1.0 4 3–4 4–5 4–5 3 2-3 4 4–5 4 3 3–4 4–5 4 4–5
4–5 4–5 5 5 4 3 4–5 4–5 4–5 3–4 4–5 4–5 4–5 5
Red A-3G 1.0 4–5 4–5 5 4–5 4–5 4 4–5 4 4–5 4 4–5 4–5 4 5
5 4–5 5 5 4–5 4–5 5 4–5 5 4 5 5 4–5 5
Red A-2BF 1.4 4–5 3 4–5 4–5 3–4 2 3 4 4 2–3 3 4–5 3 5
5 4 5 5 4 3 3–4 4–5 4–5 3 4 4–5 4–5 5
Red A-3B 0.9 4-5 4-5 5 4 4 4 4 4 4–5 4–5 4–5 5 3–4 4–5
5 5 5 5 4–5 4–5 4–5 4–5 5 5 5 5 4–5 5
Bordeaux A-5B 0.6 4 3 4–5 3 4 2 3–4 3 4–5 2–3 4 5 4 5
4-5 4 5 4–5 4–5 2–3 4 3 5 3–4 4–5 5 5 5
Violet A-B 1.5 4–5 4 5 5 4–5 3 4–5 5 4–5 3–4 4 4–5 4–5 5
5 4–5 5 5 4–5 4 4–5 5 5 4 4–5 5 5 5
Blue A-R 1.9 4–5 2–3 4 4–5 4 2 2—3 4–5 4 2–3 3 4–5 3 5
5 4–5 5 5 4-5 3 3 5 4–5 4 4 4–5 4 5
Blue A-4G 2.0 4–5 3–4 4–5 5 4 2–3 2–3 4–5 4 3 3 4–5 2–3 5
5 4–5 5 5 4–5 3 3 5 4–5 4 4 4–5 4 5
Turquoise A-G 0.75 4-5 5 5 4-5 4–5 5 5 4 4–5 4–5 4–5 5 5 5
5 5 5 5 4–5 5 5 4–5 5 4–5 5 5 5 5
Green A-BG 1.9 4–5 4 4–5 4–5 4–5 2–3 4 4 4–5 3 4 5 4 5
4–5 4–5 5 5 4–5 3 4–5 4–5 4–5 4 4–5 5 4–5 5
Navy A-R 1.0 4–5 3 5 4 4 2 4–5 3 4–5 2–3 4–5 4–5 4 5
4–5 4–5 5 5 4–5 3 5 4 4–5 4–5 4–5 5 4–5 5
Black M-R 4.0 4–5 3 4–5 4–5 4–5 2 4 4 4–5 4 4–5 4–5 3 5
5 4 5 5 4–5 2–3 4–5 4–5 5 4–5 4–5 5 4–5 5
Black M-BN 3.8 4–5 2 4–5 4–5 4–5 2 4 4–5 4–5 2 4–5 5 4–5 5
4–5 3 5 5 4–5 2–3 4–5 5 4–5 2–3 4 5 5 5
= aftertreated with CIBAFIX® PAS
Ciba® ERIONYL® A dyes
37/63
Sea water Perspiration, alkaline Chlorinated water
mg/L available chlorine Rubbing
ERIONYL A %
Ch PA CV Ch PA CV 20 50 100 dry wet
Yellow A-3G 1.5 4–5 4–5 4–5 5 4 4–5 4–5 4 3–4 5 5
4–5 5 5 5 5 5 4–5 4–5 4 5 5
Yellow A-R 1.0 4–5 4–5 4–5 4–5 4 4–5 4 4 3 5 5
4–5 5 5 4–5 5 5 4–5 4–5 3–4 5 5
Red A-3G 1.0 4–5 4–5 4–5 4–5 4 4–5 4 4 4 5 5
4–5 5 5 4–5 5 5 4–5 4 4 5 5
Red A-2BF 1.4 4–5 4 4–5 4–5 3–4 4–5 3–4 3 2 5 5
4–5 5 5 4–5 4–5 5 4 3 2 5 5
Red A-3B 0.9 4–5 4 4–5 4–5 3–4 4 4 4 4 5 5
4–5 5 5 4–5 5 5 4–5 4–5 4–5 5 5
Bordeaux A-5B 0.6 4–5 4 4–5 4–5 4 4–5 3 1–2 1 5 5
4–5 5 5 4–5 5 5 3 1-2 1 5 5
Violet A-B 1.5 5 4–5 4–5 5 4–5 4–5 3–4 2–3 1–2 5 5
5 5 5 5 5 5 3–4 2–3 2 5 5
Blue A-R 1.9 4–5 4 4–5 4–5 3–4 4–5 4 3 1–2 5 5
4–5 4–5 5 4–5 4–5 4–5 4 3 2 5 5
Blue A-4G 2.0 4–5 3–4 4–5 4–5 3 4–5 4 3 2 5 5
4–5 4–5 5 4–5 4–5 5 4–5 3 2 5 5
Turquoise A-G 0.75 4–5 5 4–5 4–5 4–5 4–5 3–4 2–3 1–2 5 5
4–5 5 5 4–5 5 5 3–4 2–3 1–2 5 5
Green A-BG 1.9 5 4–5 4–5 4–5 4–5 4–5 4 3 2 5 5
5 5 5 5 5 5 4 3 2 5 5
Navy A-R 1.0 4–5 4–5 4–5 5 4–5 4–5 3–4 2–3 1–2 5 5
4–5 5 5 5 5 5 3–4 2–3 1–2 4–5 5
Black M-R 4.0 4–5 4–5 4–5 5 4–5 4–5 4–5 4–5 4 4–5 4–5
4–5 5 5 5 4–5 4–5 4–5 4–5 4 4–5 5
Black M-BN 3.8 4–5 5 5 5 4–5 4–5 4–5 4–5 4–5 5 5
5 5 5 5 5 4–5 4–5 4–5 4–5 5 5
= aftertreated with CIBAFIX® PAS
Ciba® ERIONYL® A dyes
38/63
Dry cleaning
perchloreth. Dry heat
30s/180°C
Reservation staining
of multifiber strip Stripping
ERIONYL A %
Ch Ch PA CO PES PAN
Discharge-
ability partial % reduction oxidation
Yellow A-3G 1.5 4–5 5 5 5 5 5 4–5 30
4–5 5 5
Yellow A-R 1.0 4 4–5 5 4–5 4–5 5 5 50
4–5 4–5 5
Red A-3G 1.0 4 4–5 4–5 4 3 4–5 4–5 35 ◨Y
4–5 4–5 4–5
Red A-2BF 1.4 4 4–5 5 3–4 4–5 5 4–5 60 ◨Y
4 4–5 5
Red A-3B 0.9 4 5 5 2–3 5 5 4–5 65 Bn
4–5 4–5 5
Bordeaux A-5B 0.6 4–5 5 5 4 5 5 5 20 ◨
4–5 4–5 5
Violet A-B 1.5 4–5 5 5 3–4 3 5 2 15 G
4–5 4–5 5
Blue A-R 1.9 4–5 4–5 5 4–5 4–5 5 2 30 G
4–5 4–5 5
Blue A-4G 2.0 4–5 5 5 2–3 2–3 3 2 35 Bn
4–5 5 5
Turquoise A-G 0.75 4–5 5 5 2–3 5 5 2 10 ◨G
4–5 4–5 5
Green A-BG 1.9 4–5 5 5 3 3 3–4 2 30 Bn ◨
4–5 4–5 5
Navy A-R 1.0 4 4–5 5 3 5 5 2 30 ◨G ◨Bn
4–5 4–5 5
Black M-R 4.0 4–5 5 5 3 3–4 3–4 1–2 10 Bn ◨
4–5 5 5
Black M-BN 3.8 4–5 4–5 5 2–3 3–4 3–4 1 5 ◨Bn
4–5 5 5
= aftertreated with CIBAFIX® PAS
Stripping: completely stripped ◨ partially stripped no effect
Ciba® LANASET® dyes
39/63
Ciba Specialty Chemicals
Value beyond chemistry
Ciba® LANASET® acid/metal complex dyes
Patterns and properties
Ciba® LANASET® dyes
40/63
Ciba® LANASET® acid/metal complex dyes
Yellow 4GN Basis for bright yellow shades. In combination with LANASET Blue 5G for brilliant
green shades.
Yellow 2R For shading and combination with LANASET Red G and LANASET Gray G for dull
shades.
Orange RN Basis for brilliant orange shades with very good build up.
Brown G-01 Basis for medium beige and brown shades with good light fastness.
Brown B Basis for cost-effective dark brown shades with ultra high light fastness.
Red G Shading and combination dye for use with LANASET Yellow 2R and LANASET Gray G.
Red 2B For brilliant red self shades with high light and wet fastness.
Bordeaux B Basis for bordeaux shades. Limited suitability for pale shades on account of low light
fastness.
Violet B
(ERIONYL Violet
A-B)
Highly lightfast violet dye for self shades. Can be shaded with LANASET Red 2B and
LANASET Blue 2R. C.I. Acid Violet 109
Blue 2R
(POLAR Blue RLS
200%)
Bright blue self dye for royal blue shades. Can be shaded with LANASET Violet B and
LANASET Blue 5G. C.I. Acid Blue 225
Blue 5G Greenish blue. In combination with LANASET Yellow 4GN for brilliant green shades. To
correct shade shift towards green in artificial light. C.I. Acid Blue 239
Green B Basis for dull green and olive shades for combination with LANASET Blue 5G.
Gray G For shading and combination with LANASET Yellow 2R and LANASET Red G.
Navy R Cost-effective navy blue. Can be shaded with LANASET Blue 5G, LANASET Blue 2R and
LANASET Violet B.
Black B Neutral black with good build up. Also suitable for gray shades.
Blue 2RA
Yellow PA 125%
Red PA 200%
Blue PA
Blue PA2R 115%
Ciba® LANASET® dyes
41/63
LANASET
Yellow 4GN
LANASET
Violet B
0.65% 1.3% 2.6% 0.85% 1.7% 3.4%
LANASET
Yellow 2R
LANASET
Blue 2R
0.75% 1.5% 3.0% 1.0% 2.0% 4.0%
LANASET
Orange RN
LANASET
Blue 5G
0.9% 1.8% 3.6% 1.1% 2.2% 4.4%
LANASET
Brown G-01
LANASET
Green B
0.7% 1.4% 2.8% 0.9% 1.8% 3.6%
LANASET
Brown B
LANASET
Gray G
0.6% 1.2% 2.4% 0.5% 1.0% 2.0%
LANASET
Red G
LANASET
Navy R
0.55% 1.1% 2.2% 1.5% 2.2% 4.4%
LANASET
Red 2B
LANASET
Black B
0.95% 1.9% 3.8% 2.0% 3.0% 4.0%
LANASET
Bordeaux B
0.48% 0.95% 1.9%
Ciba® LANASET® dyes
42/63
Xenon lamp SD Solubility g/L LANASET %
1/12 1/3 1/1 30°C 60°C 90°C
Artifi-cial light
TL 84 Build up
Mi- gration
Barri- ness
EL staining
Yellow 4GN 1.3 5 6 6–7 100 100 100 R Br 4 2 4–5 2
Yellow 2R 1.5 4–5 5–6 6 100 100 100 R Br 5 2 3 3–4
Orange RN 1.8 4 5 5–6 65 80 80 Y RBr 4–5 2 3 2
Brown G-01 1.4 5 5–6 6 70 80 80 Y RBr 5 2 2 2
Brown B 1.2 5 6 6–7 100 100 100 R Y 5 1 2 2
Red G 1.1 4–5 5–6 6–7 100 100 100 Y Y 4–5 2 3 2
Red 2B 1.9 4 5 5–6 15 15 30 Y Y 4–5 2 4 3
Bordeaux B 0.95 3–4 5 5–6 20 40 100 Y Y 5 2 2–3 1–2
Violet B 1.7 3–4 4–5 5–6 60 60 100 R R 3–4 2 2–3 4
Blue 2R 2.0 4 5–6 6 100 100 100 R R 3–4 2 4 1
Blue 5G 2.2 4–5 5–6 6–7 100 100 100 G Gde 5 1–2 3–4 3
Green B 1.8 4 6 6–7 80 80 80 Y Y 3 2 4–5 2
Gray G 1.0 4–5 6 6–7 80 80 100 R Y 5 1 2–3 2
Navy R N/L
2.2 —
N/L
5–6
N/Dk
6 100 100 100 R R 4 2 3 2–3
Black B B/Dk
4.0 —
B/L
6–7
B/Dk
7 80 80 80 R G 4 — — 3
Ciba® LANASET® dyes
43/63
Washing
C06 B2, 50°C
Washing
C06 C2S, 60°C
Washing
AATCC 2A, 49°C Water
LANASET %
Ch PA WO CO Ch PA WO CO Ch PA WO Ch PA CV
Yellow 4GN 1.3 5 4–5 5 5 4–5 4–5 5 5 4–5 4–5 4–5 5 4 5
5 5 5 5 5 5 5 5 5 4–5 4–5 5 4–5 5
Yellow 2R 1.5 4–5 4–5 5 5 4–5 3 4 4–5 5 4 4 5 4–5 5
4–5 5 5 5 4–5 3–4 4–5 5 5 4–5 4–5 5 4–5 5
Orange RN 1.8 4–5 4–5 5 4–5 4–5 3–4 4 4–5 4–5 4–5 4–5 4–5 4–5 4–5
4–5 5 5 5 4–5 4–5 4–5 5 4–5 4–5 4–5 5 5 5
Brown G-01 1.4 5 4–5 5 4–5 4–5 3 4 4–5 4–5 4–5 4–5 5 4–5 5
5 5 5 5 4–5 4 4–5 5 4–5 4–5 4–5 5 4–5 5
Brown B 1.2 4–5 4 5 4–5 4–5 3 4–5 4–5 4–5 4–5 4–5 4–5 4–5 5
5 4–5 5 5 4-5 4 4–5 5 4–5 4–5 4–5 4–5 5 5
Red G 1.1 5 4–5 5 5 4–5 3–4 4 4–5 4–5 4–5 4–5 4–5 4–5 5
5 5 5 5 4–5 4–5 5 5 4–5 5 4–5 5 5 5
Red 2B 1.9 4–5 3–4 4–5 4–5 4–5 2 4 4 4–5 3 4 4–5 3–4 5
4–5 4–5 5 5 4–5 3 4–5 4–5 4–5 4 4–5 4–5 4–5 5
Bordeaux B 0.95 4–5 4–5 5 5 4–5 3 4–5 4–5 4–5 4 4–5 5 4–5 5
5 5 5 5 4–5 4 5 5 4–5 4–5 4–5 5 5 5
Violet B 1.7 5 4 5 5 4–5 3 4 4–5 4–5 3 4 5 4–5 5
5 4–5 5 5 4–5 3–4 4–5 5 5 4 4–5 5 4–5 5
Blue 2R 2.0 4–5 4 5 5 4–5 3 4 4–5 4–5 3–4 4 4–5 3 5
4–5 4–5 5 5 4–5 3–4 4–5 5 4–5 4 4–5 5 4–5 5
Blue 5G 2.2 4–5 3–4 4–5 4–5 4–5 2–3 3–4 4 4–5 2–3 3 5 4 5
5 4–5 5 5 4–5 3 4 4–5 4–5 3 4 5 4–5 5
Green B 1.8 5 4–5 5 4–5 4 3–4 4 4 4–5 4 4 4–5 4 5
5 5 5 5 4–5 4–5 4–5 4–5 5 4 4–5 5 5 5
Gray G 1.0 4–5 4 5 5 4–5 3 4–5 4–5 4–5 4 4–5 4–5 4–5 5
5 5 5 5 4–5 4 5 5 5 4 4–5 5 5 5
Navy R 2.2 4–5 3–4 4–5 5 4 3 4–5 4–5 5 3–4 4 5 4–5 5
5 5 5 5 4–5 4 5 5 5 4 4–5 5 5 5
Black B 4.0 4–5 2–3 4–5 4–5 4–5 1–2 4 4 5 2–3 4 5 3–4 5
5 3 4–5 4–5 4–5 2 4 4–5 5 3 4–5 5 4 5
= aftertreated with CIBAFIX® PAS
Ciba® LANASET® dyes
44/63
Sea water Perspiration, alkaline Chlorinated water
mg/L available chlorine Rubbing
LANASET %
Ch PA CV Ch PA CV 20 50 100 dry wet
Yellow 4GN 1.3 5 4–5 4–5 4–5 4–5 4–5 4–5 3–4 1–2 5 5
5 5 5 5 5 5 4–5 3–4 1–2 5 5
Yellow 2R 1.5 5 4–5 4–5 5 4–5 4–5 4–5 3–4 2–3 5 5
5 5 5 5 5 5 4–5 4 2–3 5 5
Orange RN 1.8 5 4–5 4 4–5 4–5 4 4 3–4 2–3 5 5
5 5 4–5 5 5 5 4–5 4 2–3 5 5
Brown G-01 1.4 4–5 4–5 4–5 4–5 4–5 4–5 4–5 4 2–3 5 5
4–5 5 5 4–5 5 5 4–5 4–5 2–3 5 5
Brown B 1.2 4–5 4–5 4–5 4–5 4–5 4–5 4 3–4 1–2 4–5 5
4–5 5 5 5 5 5 4–5 3–4 2 5 5
Red G 1.1 4–5 4–5 4–5 4–5 4–5 4–5 4 4 2–3 5 4–5
4–5 5 5 4–5 5 5 4 4 2–3 5 5
Red 2B 1.9 4–5 4–5 4–5 4–5 4 4–5 4–5 3–4 2–3 5 5
4–5 5 5 4–5 5 5 4–5 4 2–3 5 5
Bordeaux B 0.95 5 4–5 4–5 4–5 4–5 4–5 4–5 4 2 5 5
5 5 5 4–5 5 5 4–5 4 2 5 5
Violet B 1.7 5 4–5 5 5 4–5 4–5 4 3 1–2 5 5
5 5 5 5 5 5 4 3 2 5 5
Blue 2R 2.0 4–5 4 4–5 4–5 3–4 4 4 3 1–2 5 5
4–5 4–5 5 4–5 4–5 5 4 3 2 5 5
Blue 5G 2.2 4–5 4–5 4–5 4–5 4–5 4–5 4 3 2 5 5
4–5 5 5 4–5 5 5 4 3 2 5 5
Green B 1.8 4–5 4–5 4–5 4–5 4 4 4 3 1–2 5 5
4–5 5 5 4–5 5 5 4 2–3 1–2 5 5
Gray G 1.0 4–5 4–5 4–5 4–5 4–5 4–5 4–5 4 3 5 5
4–5 5 5 5 5 5 4–5 4 3 5 5
Navy R 2.2 5 4–5 4–5 4–5 4–5 4–5 4–5 4 3 5 5
5 5 5 4–5 5 5 4–5 4 3 5 5
Black B 4.0 5 4–5 4–5 5 4–5 4–5 4–5 4 3–4 4–5 4–5
5 5 5 5 5 5 4–5 4 3–4 4–5 4–5
= aftertreated with CIBAFIX® PAS
Ciba® LANASET® dyes
45/63
Dry cleaning
perchloreth. Dry heat
30s/180°C
Reservation staining
of multifiber strip Stripping
LANASET %
Ch Ch PA CO PES PAN
Discharge-
ability partial % reduction oxidation
Yellow 4GN 1.3 4–5 5 5 4–5 4–5 5 5 20
4–5 5 5
Yellow 2R 1.5 4–5 5 5 4 4–5 5 4 35 ◨ ◨
4–5 5 5
Orange RN 1.8 4–5 4–5 5 3–4 4 4–5 4 25 Bn ◨
4–5 4–5 5
Brown G-01 1.4 4–5 4–5 5 3–4 4–5 4–5 4 30 V ◨
4–5 4–5 5
Brown B 1.2 4–5 4–5 5 4 4 4–5 3 30 V ◨
4–5 4–5 5
Red G 1.1 4–5 4–5 5 3 4 4–5 2–3 25 V ◨
4–5 5 5
Red 2B 1.9 4–5 5 5 3–4 4 4–5 3–4 30 Bn ◨
4–5 5 5
Bordeaux B 0.95 4–5 5 5 3–4 4 4–5 2 25 ◨
4–5 5 5
Violet B 1.7 4–5 5 5 3 2–3 4 2 20 G
4–5 5 5
Blue 2R 2.0 4–5 5 5 3–4 4–5 4–5 2 20 G
4–5 4–5 5
Blue 5G 2.2 4 5 5 3 3 3 2 25 Bn ◨
4–5 5 5
Green B 1.8 4–5 5 5 3–4 3 4–5 2 35 Bn ◨
4–5 5 5
Gray G 1.0 4–5 5 5 3–4 3–4 4–5 3–4 20 ◨ ◨
4–5 5 5
Navy R 2.2 4–5 5 5 3–4 4 4–5 3 30 V ◨
4–5 5 5
Black B 4.0 5 5 5 2–3 3–4 3–4 1–2 10 ◨
5 5 5
= aftertreated with CIBAFIX® PAS
Stripping: completely stripped ◨ partially stripped no effect
Ciba® POLAR® acid dyes
46/63
Ciba Specialty Chemicals
Value beyond chemistry
Ciba® POLAR® acid dyes
Patterns and properties
Ciba® POLAR® acid dyes
47/63
Ciba® POLAR® acid dyes
Orange GSN
150%
Very bright orange for self shades with moderate light fastness. Very high wet-
fastness properties.
Orange GRLS
200%
Highly lightfast bright orange for self shades. Very high wet-fastness properties, but
limited leveling.
Red B 125% Very brilliant, neutral red for self shades. Moderate light fastness. High wet-fastness
properties.
Red RLS 200% Highly lightfast brilliant, bluish red for self shades. Very high wet-fastness properties.
Red 10B 140% Brilliant, very bluish red for self shades with moderate light fastness. Very high wet-
fastness properties.
Yellow GN-01
400%
Yellow 5GN 280% C.I. Acid Yellow 110
Yellow 4G 160% C.I. Acid Yellow 79
Orange GRLS
200%
C.I. Acid Orange 94
Red 3BN 140%
Red BL
Blue 3RN
Blue G 350%
Blue 6B 350%
Blue RAWL 150%
Blue RLS 200% C.I. Acid Blue 225 (LANASET Blue 2R)
POLAR
Orange GSN
150%
POLAR
Red RLS 200%
0.2% 0.6% 1.2% 0.2% 0.6% 1.2%
POLAR
Orange GRLS
200%
POLAR
Red 10B 140%
0.25% 0.75% 1.5% 0.16% 0.48% 0.95%
POLAR
Red B 125%
0.24% 0.73% 1.45%
Ciba® POLAR® acid dyes
48/63
Xenon lamp SD Solubility g/L POLAR %
1/12 1/3 1/1 30°C 60°C 90°C
Artifi-cial light
TL 84 Build up
Mi- gration
Barri- ness
EL staining
Orange GSN 150% 1.2 3 3–4 4 100 100 100 F F 3 1 3–4 2
Orange GRLS 200% 1.5 4–5 5 6 70 90 100 G F 4 1 2–3 2–3
Red B 125% 1.45 2–3 3 3–4 30 70 80 G G 3 3 3–4 2–3
Red RLS 200% 1.2 4 4–5 5–6 40 70 80 G GF 4 1 2–3 2
Red 10B 140% 0.95 2–3 3 3–4 20 50 100 G G 4 1 3 2–3
Washing
C06 B2, 50°C
Washing
C06 C2S, 60°C
Washing
AATCC 2A, 49°C Water
POLAR %
Ch PA WO CO Ch PA WO CO Ch PA WO Ch PA CV
Orange GSN 150% 1.2 4–5 5 5 5 4 4–5 5 5 4–5 5 5 5 4–5 4–5
4–5 5 5 5 4–5 5 5 5 4–5 5 5 5 5 5
Orange GRLS 200% 1.5 4–5 4–5 5 5 4–5 3 4–5 4–5 4–5 5 5 4–5 4–5 5
4–5 5 5 5 4–5 4 5 5 5 5 5 4–5 5 5
Red B 125% 1.45 4 4–5 5 5 4 4 4 5 4–5 5 5 4–5 2–3 4
4–5 5 5 5 4–5 4–5 5 5 5 5 5 4–5 5 5
Red RLS 200% 1.5 4–5 4 5 4–5 4–5 2–3 4 4 4–5 4 5 5 4–5 5
5 4–5 5 5 4–5 3–4 4–5 4–5 4–5 4–5 5 5 5 5
Red 10B 140% 0.95 5 4–5 5 5 4–5 3–4 4 4–5 4–5 4–5 5 5 4 5
5 5 5 5 5 4–5 5 5 5 5 5 5 5 5
= aftertreated with CIBAFIX® PAS
Sea water Perspiration, alkaline Chlorinated water
mg/L available chlorine Rubbing
POLAR %
Ch PA CV Ch PA CV 20 50 100 dry wet
Orange GSN 150% 1.2 4–5 4–5 4–5 4–5 4 4 4 3–4 D 2–3 D 5 5
5 5 5 4–5 5 5 4–5 4 2–3 D 5 5
Orange GRLS 200% 1.5 4–5 5 5 4–5 4–5 4–5 4 2–3 WD 1 WD 5 5
5 5 5 4–5 5 5 4 2–3 WD 1–2 WD 5 5
Red B 125% 1.45 4–5 3–4 4–5 4–5 3–4 4 4 4 4 5 5
5 5 5 4–5 5 5 4 4 4 5 5
Red RLS 200% 1.5 4–5 5 4–5 4–5 4–5 4–5 4 3 D 2 WD 5 5
4–5 5 5 4–5 5 5 4–5 3 D 2 WD 5 5
Red 10B 140% 0.95 5 4–5 4–5 5 4 4–5 4 4 3–4 5 5
5 5 5 5 5 5 4 4 4 5 5
= aftertreated with CIBAFIX® PAS
Ciba® POLAR® acid dyes
49/63
Dry cleaning
perchloreth. Dry heat
30s/180°C
Reservation staining
of multifiber strip Stripping
POLAR %
Ch Ch PA CO PES PAN
Discharge-
ability partial % reduction oxidation
Orange GSN 150% 1.2 4 4–5 5 3–4 4 4–5 5 40
4–5 4–5 5
Orange GRLS 200% 1.5 4–5 5 5 3–4 3–4 4 5 25 ◨
4–5 4–5 5
Red B 125% 1.45 4–5 5 5 3 4 4–5 4–5 65 Br
4–5 5 5
Red RLS 200% 1.5 4–5 4–5 5 2–3 3 3–4 5 20 ◨ Br
4–5 4–5 5
Red 10B 140% 0.95 4–5 5 5 3 4 4 5 40 Br
4–5 4–5 5
= aftertreated with CIBAFIX® PAS
Stripping: completely stripped ◨ partially stripped no effect
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Notes on the pattern section
Standard dyeings
TECTILON, ERIONYL A, LANASET and POLAR dyes were applied on polyamide/elastane tricot (80/20) at 2
or 3 different shade depths by the methods described, at 98°C/208°F, liquor ratio 20:1.
Fastness properties
Fastness properties were tested in accordance with SN-ISO 105 or international standards. Fastness
ratings refer to the material illustrated with and sometimes without aftertreatment. Where multifiber strip
is specified as adjacent fabric, such as in wash test C06 B2, adjacent fabric not mentioned in the table
attained rating 5 for staining.
Light fastness was tested at the given depths, wet fastness at 1/1 standard depth (SD) or as light navy
(N/L) and deep black (B/Dk). Standard depth 1/1 was determined colorimetrically in accordance with ISO
105-A06 (edition 1995, “Instrumental determination of standard depth 1/1”).
Results can differ, depending on fiber material, and for special requirements preliminary trials are
advisable.
Polyamide microfibers frequently have considerably lower fastness properties than conventional varieties.
Key to fastness tables
Ch = shade change Br = brighter
CO = staining of cotton De = deeper
CV = staining of viscose D = duller, flatter
PA = staining of polyamide 66 textured tricot W = weaker
PAN = staining of acrylics
PES = staining of polyester
WO = staining of wool
Bl = bluer BB = considerably bluer
Bn = browner
G = greener GG = considerably greener
R = redder RR = considerably redder
V = more violet
Y = yellower YY = considerably yellower
N/L = standard depth “light navy”
N/Dk = standard depth “dark navy”
B/L = standard depth “light black”
B/Dk = standard depth “dark black”
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Staining of elastane
EL = Elastane 0 = no staining of EL
PA = Polyamide 1 = poor dyeing of EL
2 = medium dyeing of EL
3 = tone-in-tone dyeing of EL
4 = heavy staining of EL (EL deeper than PA)
Bl = bluer
G = greener
R = redder
Y = yellower
Artificial light/Philips TL 84
Shade was assessed under a MacBeth lamp and a TL 84 tubular fluorescent lamp and compared with that
in daylight.
Dischargeability
Dischargeability was rated 1 to 5, rating 5 indicating “discharged to white” and rating 1 “no effect”.
Method:
thickening (Meyprogum NPS 8%, Meyhall) 550 g
cold water 275 g
Decrolin (BASF) 150 g
LYOPRINT APN 5 g
UVITEX NFW 1:2 20 g
1’000 g
- dry
- fix (10 min air-excluded saturated steam)
- finish off
Build up
Exhaustion > 95%, referred to a dyeing without auxiliaries on polyamide/elastane tricot (80/20), 1h at
98°C/208°F, liquor ratio 20:1, at the following shade depths:
5 = very good (> 3/1 SD)
4 = good (> 2/1 SD)
3 = moderate ( 1/1 SD)
2 = poor (< 1/1 SD)
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Migration
Test method: treat dyed and non-dyed material (1/1 SD or pale navy) at a 1:1 ratio in a blank bath
without auxiliaries, 1h at 98°C/208°F, liquor ratio 20:1
5 = very good (40–50% dye migration)
4 = good (30–40% dye migration)
3 = moderate (20–30% dye migration)
2 = weak (10–20% dye migration)
1 = very weak (0–10% dye migration)
Barriness
This was tested on polyamide 66 test material without auxiliaries at shade depth 1/1 SD or pale navy.
5 = no barriness
4–5 = trace barry
4 = slightly barry
3–4 = noticeably barry
3 = considerably barry
2–3 = considerably to very barry
2 = highly barry
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CH 3 : Auxiliaries
Ciba® ALBEGAL® SET leveling agent
● Leveling agent for the Ciba® LANASET® dyeing system on polyamide
● Affinity for the fiber and the dye
● Promotes migration, shade build up, leveling power and penetration
● Breaks down dye aggregations and speeds up dye diffusion
● Enhances bath exhaustion
● Low foaming
Migration/leveling on polyamide Breaking down dye aggregations
1% ALBEGAL SET without
without 1% ALBEGAL SET
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CIBAFAST® AO anti oxidant for polyamide
● Reduces fiber degradation due to light and especially heat
● Improves light fastness of dyeings in pale and medium shades
● Suitable for all PA6 and PA66
● Very good affinity for the fiber and good liquor stability
● Metal-free
Fastness to molding on PA66 molded for 60s at 204°C/399°F
without product
2% CIBAFAST AO
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CIBAFIX® CL chlorine fastness improver
● Natural product to improve chlorine and wet fastness (100% biodegradable)
● Improves fastness properties of fiber and dyeing
● Usable application for all kind of swimwear fabrics
● Excellent build up and leveling power
● Applicable over a large pH range (pH 3–6)
● High exhaustion rate
Fastness to chlorine on polyamide/Lycra 82:18
100 mg/L act. Cl (according to M&S C37)
1.4% Ciba® ERIONYL® Red A-2BF 1.9% Ciba® ERIONYL® Green A-BG
without 3% CIBAFIX CL without 3% CIBAFIX CL
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CIBAFIX® PAS fixative for polyamide
● Improves wet fastness properties of dyeings and prints
● Much improved stability to concentrated acids — less danger of spotting in application
● Reserving agent for white ground in washing off prints
● High exhaustion rate
Aftertreatment method on PA66
1.8% Ciba® ERIONYL® Red 2B 154%
no auxiliary 1.0% 2.0%
Wash test 50°C/122°F
Water severe
Perspiration alkaline
Aftertreatment method on PA66
0.6% Ciba® TECTILON® Yellow 4R-01 200% / 1.2% Ciba® TECTILON® Blue 6G 200%
no auxiliary 1.0% 2.0%
Wash test 50°C/122°F
Water severe
Perspiration alkaline
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CIBAFIX® ECO fixative for cellulose
● Fixative for very deep shades to enhance wet fastness
● Applied on PA/EL after anionic fixation with CIBAFIX PAS
Combined aftertreatment method on polyamide/elastane
7% Ciba® ERIONYL® Black M-BN — wash test 50°C/122°F, M&S C4A
PA
without
aftertreatment
with 1.5% CIBAFIX
PAS, rinse and
2.0% CIBAFIX ECO
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CIBAFLOW® CIR penetration accelerant
● APEO- and solvent-free de-aerating agent with wetting and durable antifoam properties
● Instant penetration of goods, especially recommended for circulating liquor dyeing machines
● Adequate stability to shear forces
● Stable in acid and alkaline media
● Promotes constant liquor flow, hence inside-outside levelness and reduced risk of channeling
● Free from mineral oil and organic solvent
● Low odor
Wetting/deaerating/defoaming
water wetting
agent
penetration
accelerant
wetting
agent
defoaming
agent
penetration
accelerant
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CIBAFLOW® JET penetration accelerant
● APEO- and solvent-free product with strongly pronounced antifoaming action
● Specially recommended for jet and overflow machines and machines with short liquor or air stream
technology alternative
● Very stable to high alkali and electrolyte concentrations
● Highly stable to shear forces
● Free from mineral oil and organic solvent
● Low odor
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CIBAFLUID® C lubricant
● Reduces creasing in piece dyeing
● Markedly reduces textile-to-textile friction
● Prevents cracks and abrasion marks
● No adverse effect on the stability of the dyebath
● No retarding effect
Reduction of textile-to-textile friction
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Ciba® UNIVADINE® MC NEW leveling agent for polyamide
● Special designed for leveling 1:2 metal complex dyes e.g. Ciba® LANASET® dyes. Can also be used for
acid dyes
● Outstanding coverage of barriness and improvement of migration with 1:2 metal complex dyes
● Improves surface levelness on all polyamide qualities
● Adequate retarding action
● Very good wetting and precipitation inhibiting effect
Coverage of barriness/leveling
Ciba® LANASET® dyes
1%
UNIVADINE MC NEW
2%
UNIVADINE MC NEW
without leveler
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Ciba® UNIVADINE PA NEW leveling agent for acid dyes / Ciba® UNIVADINE
NT NEW leveling agent for acid dyes
● Highly efficient HT-stable leveling agents with reproducible results
● UNIVADINE PA NEW helps to achieve highest standards of levelness with balanced migration and
coverage of barriness. Has no negative retarding and blocking effect
● UNIVADINE NT NEW promotes customary standards of levelness with very good coverage of barriness
and migration
Covering of barriness/leveling
Ciba® ERIONYL® A dyes
without
2% UNIVADINE PA NEW
2% UNIVADINE NT NEW
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CH 4 : Miscellaneous