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A PRACTICAL WAY TO INTRODUCE A WORLDWIDE JEWELRY ETHICAL TRADE SYSTEM
RAPAPORT FAIR TRADE JEWELRY CONFERENCE
Presented by: Edward Boehm ICA Director
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ICA 568 Members
in 44 Countries
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Our Locations
...and ambassadors in 30 countries around the world
Head Office New York
Europe Bureau Idar-Oberstein, Germany
Asia Bureau Bangkok
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...promoting coloured gemstones worldwide
Corporate
PROFILE
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InColor Magazine
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World Mining Report
World Gemmological Laboratory Directory
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Website: www.gemstone.org
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ICA Congress in Panyu, China 2009
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ICA Congress- Panyu 2009
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ICA Congress – Panyu 2009
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ICA and Ethical Trade
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The current working team:
Andrew Cody ICA Immediate Past PresidentJean Claude Michelou ICA Vice PresidentEdward Boehm ICA Director
Professor Michael Hopkins Geneva University
And just joining the team:
Professor Donald Feaver & PhD Student Royal Melbourne Instituteof Technology
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Wholesale & Distribution
Retailer
CONSUMER
Hundreds of Countries with a myriad of cultures and standards.
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JEWELRY SUPPLY CHAIN
First Tier
What makes a mining operation Ethical?
Labor Issues
Human Rights Child Labor Poor Wages Safety Conditions Community Benefits Community Displacement
Environmental Issues
Chemical pollution Landscape scarring Deforestation Wildlife
Economic & Socio-Political Issues Political Terrorism Smuggling Money laundering
Treatment Issues
Disclosure Safety issues-irradiation Permanency of treatment Environmental impact
Large Scale Miners-Small Scale Miners
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Over 200 Sovereign StatesDifferent CulturesDifferent StandardsDifferent Rules
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Other Problems Associated with Implementing Ethical Trade
• Different Products- Gemstones & Metals • Different Supplier Countries
• Different Cultures
• Different Economic Structures
• Different Labor Standards
Each of the previously mentioned issues will vary according to :
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Ethical Trade Issues Facing First Tier - Mining
Labor Issues
Environmental Issues
Economic & Socio-Political Issues
Treatments
Human rights Child Labor Poor Wages Safety conditions Displacement of communities
Chemical pollution Landscape scarring Deforestation Wildlife displacement
Political instability Terrorism Money laundering Smuggling
Disclosure Safety issues
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Human rights Child Labor Poor Wages Safety conditions Displacement of communities
Labor Issues
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Environmental Issues Chemical pollution Landscape scarring Deforestation Wildlife Displacement
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Political Instability Terrorism Money Laundering Smuggling
Economic & Socio-Political Issues
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Large mining concerns are easier to regulate
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However, there are millions of artisanal miners
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Responsible Jewelry Council Members
Trade Associations• The American Gem Society• British Jewellers Association• Jewellers of America• Manufacturing Jewelers and Suppliers of America Inc.• National Mining Association• The National Association of Goldsmiths• World Gold Council
Service Industries (inc. financial institutions)• Int. Diamond and Jewellery Group ABN-AMRO• The Assay Office
Mining• AngloGold Ashanti• Arslanian Freres NV• Bonas & Co. Ltd• Dalumi Diamonds• Diarough N.V. • Dimexon Diamonds• HRA Investments Ltd• I.Hennig & Co. Ltd• Lazare Kaplan International Inc.• Overseas Dimaonds NV / Isee2• Rosy Blue N.V.• Rothschild Diamonds Ltd• Sima Diamond NV• Steinmetz• Suashish Diamonds
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Responsible Jewelry Council Members cont’d
Gold Refining Hedging or Trading• Argor-Heraeus SA• Metalor Tchnologies SA• PAMP SA• PX Precinox SA• Valcambi SA
Jewellery Manufacturing or Wholesale• AR & AR Jewellery Inc• Aurafin LLC• Baume & Mercier• Boite D’Or Gioielli S.R.L.• Carrera y Carrera• C&J Jewelry• Cendres+Mé:taux SA• Christian Bernard• Colormasters Gem Corp• Cristofol Paris
Jewellery Manufacturing or Wholesale• DN Gems Corp• Gabriel & Co• Jaeger-LeCoultre• J.B. Jewelry• Leo Schachter Diamonds LLC• Libman & Company Ltd• Kristall Inc.• Regal Imports Ltd• Robertso Coin• Stubbs and Co
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Responsible Jewelry Council Members cont’d
Retail• Argos Ltd• Ben Bridge Jeweler•Borsheims•Boucheron•Brown Goldsmiths•Bulgari S.p.A•Cartier•Chanel Horlogerie/Joaillerie•Day’s Jewellery•Element Jewellery•Gomez & Molina Joyeros•Goodmans Jewelers Inc•Hamilton Jewellers•Harriet Kelsall Jewellery Design Ltd•Harry Winston•H. Cunningham Fine Jewelry Inc.•Helzberg Diamonds•Ice cool.co.uk
•JCPenney•Jewellery By Varouj Inc•Larter and Sons•Leber Jeweler Inc.•Lux Bond & Green•Marissa D. Harvey •Montblanc•Moet Hennessy – Louis Vuitton• Nicholas James•Piaget•Precious Metals•Reis-Nichols Inc.•Signet Group plc.•Simms II Jewelers•Tiffany & Co.•Transparence S. A.•Van Cleef & Arpels •WhiteFlash.com•Zale Corporation
Current membership is approximately 100 organizations
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Current RJC membership is
approximately 100 members
But there are at least
5 Million people involved in the jewelry industry worldwide
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The people who suffer in the producing countries can’t afford to wait …
Let’s work together to make Ethical Trade a reality
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What is the basis of the ICA proposal?
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ETHICAL TRADERRETAILER CAT 3
2009
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Global Reach
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JETS ADMINISTRATION
JETS operations & managementInternational & National Associations with approved Code of Ethics (potentially 100 associations)
Wholesale and Retail members receive accreditation
Consumer Confidence
Advice & input from NGO’s and Ethical Trade initiatives to advise on standards
CASM
ARM
UNDPWorld Bank
No dirty gold
End PovertyDDI
IRMA
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ICA
Code of Ethics
Japan Jewellers AssociationCode of Ethics
AGTA
Code of Ethics
Colored Diamond Association
Code Of Ethics
TGJTA
Code of Ethics
JAA
Code of Ethics
International Colored Gemstone Association
Thai Gem & Jewellery Traders Assocation
Gemological Institute of America
Gemmological Association of Australia
Jewellers Association of Australia
Japan Jewellery Association
American Gem Trade Association
The Gemmological Association of Great Britain
British Jewellers Association
ETC
Examples of Industry Codes of Ethics at work:
Work together with industry organizations that already have established ethical guidelines
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Ethical Trade Initiatives
No Dirty Gold DDI ARM IRMA CASM CRJP
Kimberly Process
Ethical Metalsmiths
MINE _ _ _ _ _ _ _ _ _ _ _ _ _ _ _ _ _ _ _ _ _ _ _ _ _ _ _ _ _ _ _ _ _ _ _ _ _ _
PROCESSING _ _ _ _ _ _ _ _ _ _ _ _ _ _ _ _ _ _ _ _ _ _ _ _ _ _ _ _ _ _ _ _ _ _ _ _
WHOLESALE _ _ _ _ _ _ _ _ _ _ _ _ _ _ _ _ _ _ _ _ _ _ _ _ _ _ _ _ _ _ _ _ _ _ _ _
RETAIL _ _ _ _ _ _ _ _ _ _ _ _ _ _ _ _ _ _ _ _ _ _ _ _ _ _ _ _ _ _ _ _ _ _ _ _ _ _
Most initiatives do not have a solid connection or link with the retailer which would ensure a conduit for ethically certified products from mine to market
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The JET System would create openings for certified products to the consumerIt would also recognise approved product certification of many other initiatives
Examples...
Recognised by CIBJO JETS program
Certified Ethical product Certified Ethical product
Certified Ethical Product
Manufacturer
JETS Retailer
CRJP Retailer
Ethically Aware Consumer
Certified Ethical product
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ETHICAL TRADERMANUFACTURER 2009
ETHICAL TRADERMINER 2009
ETHICAL TRADERRETAILER 2009
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Benefit the Consumer
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Benefit the Retailer
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Benefit the Cutter, Manufacturer, & Wholesaler
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Benefit the Miner & Local Population