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Chapter 18
Braiding and Braid
Extensions
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“Minds are like parachutes. They only
function when open.”
– Thomas Dewar
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Objectives
• Explain how to prepare the hair for braiding.
• Demonstrate the procedure for cornrowing.
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Client Consultation
• Focus on client expectations.
• Build trust and confidence.
• Follow standard consultation guidelines.
• Conduct in quiet spot.
• Be warm, be friendly, and listen.
• Complete client record card.
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Natural Hairstyling
• Natural hairstyling originated in Africa.
• Some procedures take many hours to complete and last
from six weeks to three months.
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Natural or Virgin Hair
• No chemicals or dyes
• Natural or coil pattern of hair not alerted
• Never exposed to thermal styling tools, according
to some
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Natural Hairstyling
• Braiding and extensions
• Twisting: overlapping two strands to form a candy-cane
effect
• Weaving: intertwining a weft of faux hair with natural hair
• Wrapping
• Dreadlocks
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Hair Analysis
• Texture
– Diameter of hair; feel; wave pattern
• Density
• Hair condition
• Length
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Tools for Braiding
• Boar-bristle brush
• Square paddle brush
• Vent brush
• Wide-tooth comb
• Tail comb
• Double-tooth comb
• Finishing comb
• Cutting comb
• Pick with rounded teeth
• Blow-dryer with pick nozzle
• Diffuser
• 5-inch scissors
• Long clips
• Butterfly and small clips
• Hood dryer
• Small rubber bands or string
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Tools for Braiding (continued)
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Implements and Materials
• Extension fibers
• Hackle
• Drawing board
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Fibers
• Human hair: most imported from Asia
• Kanekalon: excellent quality
• Nylon or rayon: less expensive; may cut or break natural
hair
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• Yarn: made of cotton or nylon blend
• Lin: wool fiber from Africa
• Yak: from Tibetan or Asian ox
Fibers (continued)
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Wet or Dry Hair
• Dry is best for braiding.
• Allow for shrinkage when braiding wet.
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Straight Hair
• Braid dry.
• Let hair fall without tension.
• Shampoo first.
• Towel-blot without rubbing.
• Apply leave-in conditioner.
• Detangle from ends to scalp.
• Blow-dry hair.
• Use pomade, gel, or lotion to hold.
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Blow-Drying Benefits
• Dries hair quickly
• Softens hair
• Loosens and elongates wave pattern
• Aids manipulation process
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Preparation for Braiding
• Procedure
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Tree Braids
• Hair is braided with an extension.
• Finished look shows mostly faux hair.
• Process takes about four hours.
• Two methods
– Tying Individual strands in place about an inch from scalp
area
– Adding long pieces of hair to cornrows
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Dreadlocks
• Separate networks of curly, textured hair that have been
intertwined and meshed together
• Performed without chemicals in several slow phases
• Process can take from six to twelve months
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Ways to Cultivate Locks
• Double twisting
• Wrapping with cord
• Coiling
• Palm rolling
• Braiding
• Not combing or brushing
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Three Lock Methods
• Comb technique
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• Palm roll
• Braids or extensions
Three Lock Methods (continued)
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Developmental Phases of Locks
• Phase 1: Hair is soft and coiled in spirals.
• Phase 2: Hair begins to interlace and mesh.
• Phase 3: A bulb can be felt at end of lock.
• Phase 4: Hair begins to regain length.
• Phase 5: Locks are closed at ends, are dense and dull,
and do not reflect light.
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Procedures
• Visible Braid Procedure
• Rope Braid Procedure
• Fishtail Braid Procedure
• Invisible Braid Procedure
• Single Braids without Extensions
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Procedures (continued)
• Single Braids with Extensions
• Cornrows Procedure
• Cornrows with Extensions
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Summary and Review
• What is the most effective way to prepare hair for
braiding?
• What are the steps in creating basic corn rows?
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You have completed one unit of study
toward course completion.
Congratulations!