Download - Checks and Stripes Session 17-21
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STRIPES & CHECKS
SESSION 17-21
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Horizontal stripe fabrics
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Horizontal Stripe Fabric
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Vertical stripe fabric
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Vertical stripe fabric
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Checks fabric
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Checks fabric
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ALIGNMENT DIFFICULTIES
STRIPES & CHECKS
Three main difficulties which affect markermaking and spreading procedure
1.Fabric dimensions show variations:
2.Superimposed plies must be matched:
3.Garment pieces must be positionedaccurately in relation to the fabric pattern:
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1. Fabric dimensions show variations:
Problem associated with bowing and skewing
These distortions are shown up well in width ways
striped and checked fabrics.
Dimensional variation along the length of the
fabric.
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A single ply may exhibit these effects.
The distance between pattern repeats can be
measured easily to determine the magnitude
of problem.
The differences arise wherever the fabric canbe distorted during its formation and finishing.
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2. Superimposed plies must be matched
In order to lay up these patterned fabrics, it is
essential that the ply length be determined
by the pattern and not by the absolutelength.
Consequently, to superimpose successiveplies, areas of fullness and tightness must be
accommodated within the lay.
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3. Garment pieces must be positioned accurately inrelation to the fabric pattern
Having layed up the fabric, a marker must be placed
over the top ply.
However, the marker is made to fit fabric with thespecification pattern repeat dimensions, and anexact match may not occur.
This means adjustments must be made manuallyduring cutting
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Construction of Garment Design
Variety ofmatching positions
Neck, shoulder areas
Side seam
Additional matching position -----Complexity
Keep mim. Matching positions to achievedesired quality
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Spreading Techniques
Time consuming and labour intensive
Sometime individual plies may be cut
All techniques are based on locatingparticular stripes or checks and
superimposing plies in a controlled manner.
Lays are generally short
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1. Check spikes
2. Pinning Table
3. Folding
4. Block out
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Check Spikes
Base-2.5cm diameter
Different length
Important matching points are located
Inexpensive
Ensure critical points are matched
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Check spikes (not real image)
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Check Spikes
Can produce localized distortion
Safety hazard
Time consuming
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Pinning Table
Are a development of check spikeprinciple and are designed to overcomesome drawbacks.
Contains holes
The operator moves the pins vertically asnecessary, beginning with the points justabove the surface.
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Pinning table
Each successive ply is positioned on thetable with the matching points on the pins.
The operator ensures that the pins alwaysprotrude just above the top ply.
Spreading is generally done by hands butmachines can also be used.
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Can reduce spreading time.
Reduces localized distortion
Reduces safety hazards
Permits longer lays to be processed
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The usage of pins and pin tables in
cutting room applications are:
To reduce ply slippage during lay cutting by straight knife
To align checks and stripes
To align check or stripe while relaying block cut
components
To reduce ply slippage while transferring fabric blocks to
band knife
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Folding
A method for processing relatively simple stripe knitwearinvolves cutting and folding panels of fabric.
The fabric is folded to match the stripes and to compensatefor any bow or skew that is present.
From the folded lay a small lay is built up , which may then becut.
Very effective at minimizing problem of bow.
Not convenient for styles requiring more complex markerplans.
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Blocking Out and Relaying
Marker planned with relaying allowances
Spread like plain and blocks are cut
Relaying using small pinning tables orcheck spikes so that all the superimposed
plies are correctly positioned.
Re-cutting
Useful if few matching points
Material cost is high
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Marker Planning
Check spikes and pinning table
Based on pattern repeat size
Matching positions clearly marked
Folding
Paper marker not used
No. of Folds must be stated
Blocking out
Pattern repeat allowance
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Make marker
Shirt
Check fabric
Repeat size
8cm
12cm
15cm
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End