Pondicherry
Colours & Flavours of Southern India:
From the Coromandel Coast to the Malabar Hills
With Chris and Carolyn Caldicott
15th – 28th February 2019
The Ultimate Travel Company
Escorted Tours
Colours & Flavours of Southern India: From the Coromandel Coast to the Malabar Hills
With Chris and Carolyn Caldicott
15th – 28th February 2019
Contact Flora Scott-Williams
Direct Line 020 7386 4643
Telephone 020 7386 4620
Email [email protected]
Chris Caldicott
Since travelling to some of the most remote parts of the world as
Photographer-in-Residence to the Royal Geographical Society, Chris
Caldicott has continued his globetrotting lifestyle as a freelance
photographer, writer and lecturer specialising in food and travel. He has
had several books published about food, travel and the spice trade and
visited 108 countries in search of the perfect meal, finding most of the top
contenders on his 72 trips to India. As a journalist he is a regular
contributor to publications such as Vanity Fair, Conde Nast Traveller, The
Sunday Times, Harpers Bazaar, Tatler, House and Garden and the
Telegraph. Chris will offer a workshop at the beginning of the trip on how
to take better travel photographs and get the best out of your camera
covering exposure, focus and composition illustrated with examples of his
own work. He will also be offering one to one tutorials during the journey.
Carolyn Caldicott
Carolyn owed and ran the World Food Café in London’s Covent Garden
for 20 years. She now works as an author and food writer and together
with husband Chris has written several World Food Café recipe books
about global cuisine. Her recent books including Vintage Tea Party, re-
creating the nostalgic world of traditional English teatime treats; Rosehips
On a Kitchen Table, a manual for foragers, farmers market shoppers and
allotment gardeners; Comfort, recipes to warm the heart and feed the soul;
Bombay Lunch Box, about Anglo-Indian Tiffin with a contemporary twist;
and Great British Cooking, covering everything from roast beef to making
marmalade. Her next book Beside the Seaside, celebrating retro and
contemporary seaside cuisine, is out this spring. She also a food and travel
writer for Elle magazine. Carolyn will give a introduction to the regional
cuisine and the dishes you will enjoy on the journey and be on hand to
explain the mysteries of the wonderful spices and other ingredients on sale
in the colourful markets along the way.
Detailed Itinerary
Begin in Mahablipuram to explore the impressive 7th century Pallava Dynasty shore temples and
exquisitely hand carved cave and rock reliefs, before continuing on to Pondicherry, the French
colonial town, with elegant tree lined avenues, boulangeries, cool bars, seaside boulevards and
restaurants serving classic French dishes with a tropical twist. From Pondicherry drive south
through the countryside to a lovely new rural retreat among local farms and villages and stay among
the mango and jackfruit trees, with time to relax by a lovely outdoor pool between village walks and
home cooked meals. In Tanjore see bronze statues still being made with the traditional ‘lost wax
method’ used over a thousand years ago in the Chola Dynasty and visit the stunning Brihadeswara
Temple, built in the 11th century. Continue to the utterly charming vintage traditional Chettinad
Mansion converted into a fine rural boutique hotel with a pool and cook school featuring the unique
and delicious recipes of Chettinad cuisine including crab curries, pepper chicken and fish masalas.
On the way to the hillside spice plantations and forests of the Western Ghats, where herds of wild
elephants and other exotic fauna still roam on the Tamil Nadu-Kerala boarder, stop in Madurai to
visit the epic Meenakshi Temple - the Taj Mahal of South India - India’s largest, most impressive
and atmospheric ancient living temple and have a gentle walking tour of the city’s most visually
exciting souks. Feast on Keralan cuisine, stroll among aromatic spice plantations and take a boat
ride on Periyar Lake to spot wild elephant (and maybe more) along the forested shore before
descending towards the Arabian Sea for a backwater day cruise with a seafood lunch along the
backwaters to Cochin. Here see the famous shore line cantilever fishing nets that were introduced
by traders from the court of Kubla Khan, and many other legacies of Cochin’s past as the greatest
spice port of the Malabar Coast such as a Jewish quarter, Dutch Palace, Portuguese Cathedral -
where Vasco de Gamma was buried - and many fine mansions of the spice merchants.
During the trip Chris will be giving a rolling travel photography workshop for those that wish to
partake. Food always plays a big part of Chris and Carolyn’s trips and, again for those that wish,
they will be happy to give an introduction to the traditional local specialities of the different
regions.
Day 1: Friday, 15th February London / Chennai
Early afternoon British Airways flight (14.20 hrs) from London Heathrow to Chennai.
Day 2: Saturday, 16th February Chennai / Mahalbalipuram / Pondicherry
On arrival in the early morning (05.35 hrs), transfer to Mahalbalipuram, once the major seaport of the
ancient Pallava Kingdom based at Kanchipuram and home to some magnificent UNESCO World Heritage
temples and carvings. Breakfast at a wonderfully atmospheric local restaurant before a walking tour of all
the impressive 7th century Pallava Dynasty temples and exquisitely hand carved cave and rock reliefs. Visit
the UNESCO World Heritage Site of Shore Temple, a complex of temples and shrines overlooking the Bay
of Bengal. It is a structural temple, built with blocks of granite, dating from the 8th century AD and is one of
the oldest stone temples of southern India. Continue to the French colonial city of Pondicherry and check
into the beautifully restored colonial mansion, the Palais de Mahe CGH Earth Hotel, situated in the heart of
the historic French Quarter, and where two nights are spent.
Lunch at the hotel. Rest of the afternoon at leisure to enjoy the hotel’s facilities including a swimming pool
and Ayurvedic spa. Evening stroll along the sea front stopping for a drink at a typical colonial French bar.
Return to the hotel for dinner.
Shore Temple, Mahalbalipuram Immaculate Conception Cathedral, Pondicherry
Day 3: Sunday, 17th February Pondicherry
Enjoy a morning cyclo (rickshaw) tour of Pondicherry including the French Quarter with its elegant leafy
avenues and chic boutiques and cafes as well as the Tamil Quarter with its colourful Grand Bazaar and
Hindu temples. Stop at Maison Perumal CGH Earth Hotel, a former Tamil merchant’s mansion, for a
cooking demonstration using fresh and locally sourced ingredients.
Lunch at Maison Perumal CGH Earth Hotel. Afternoon walking tour of the Pondicherry French Quarter
including the old colonial villas; Café des Artes, filled with colonial art and furniture; Domus, a wonderful
café and boutique shop selling beautiful furniture, lamps and fabrics; the enchanting Cluny Embroidery
Centre, a women’s not-for-profit collective selling hand-sewn, exquisitely embroidered bed linen and table
cloths; Artika Café Gallery, filled with paintings and wall murals; the 300 year old Catholic Church of
Immaculate Conception; and finally a stop at Baker Street a French-style bakery offering tempting eclairs,
oven-fresh croissants, tasty brioche, sumptuous quiches and fresh crepes. Dinner at a local art collector’s
house.
Day 4: Monday, 18th February Pondicherry / Chidambaram / Kumbakonam
Morning departure (with luggage) to Chidambaram to visit Nataraja Shiva Temple. Built in the 10th century
this Hindu temple is dedicated to Lord Shiva, the lord of dance. Visit Gangaikondacholapuram Rural
Temple on route to the 4-star eco-friendly Mantra Koodram CGH Earth Hotel in Kumakonam where one
night spent.
Lunch at the hotel. Rest of the afternoon at leisure to enjoy the hotel’s swimming pool and Ayurvedic spa or
optional village walk with bullock cart ride. Dinner at the hotel.
Day 5: Tuesday, 19th February Kumbakonam / Tanjore
Morning departure (with luggage) and visit a rural market and temple on the way to Tanjore. Check into the
boutique Svatma Hotel a restored colonial home of a British trader, and where two nights are spent.
Light lunch at the hotel. Rest of the afternoon at leisure. Late afternoon visit to Brihadishvara Temple, the
grandest architectural achievement of the Chola era, which was erected in about 1010 by Rajaraja I, who
personally donated the gilded pot finial at the summit of the tower. Enjoy the sunset at the temple. Dinner at
the hotel.
Chidambaram Shiva Temple Ayyanar at Ellangudipatti
Day 6: Wednesday, 20th February Tanjore
Morning visit to Nayaka Palace which stands surrounded by walls in the middle of the Old City. The royal
complex was founded by Shevappa Nayaka, but was enlarged and altered many times. Admire the fine
bronzes and depictions of Shiva which predominate in early Chola art. Also visit the Royal Museum which
has a small collection of royal memorabilia. Continue to visit local artist studios and the city walls as well as
the lost wax bronze city workshop where we will see bronze statues still being made with the traditional ‘lost
wax method’ used over a thousand years ago in the Chola Dynasty.
Lunch under own arrangements. Remainder of the afternoon at leisure to enjoy the hotel’s facilities
including a swimming pool and spa. Early evening cooking demonstration at the hotel. Dinner at the hotel
with musical performances.
Day 7: Thursday, 21st February Tanjore / Kanadukathan
Early morning option to experience Vedic chanting before breakfast. Depart (with luggage) and visit the
Ayyana horse shrines at Ellangudipatti. Ayyanar is a village god associated with the bounty of the earth and
thought to grant the village bountiful rains or a good harvest. The shrines are often found in sacred groves
located a little way outside the village and whilst various types of figures can be found, the most common
forms are horses, which represent the mounts of Ayyanar and his army. Shrines generally consist of rows of
large, vibrantly decorated terra cotta figures ranging from 4 to 20 feet in height. Continue to the Vislam
CGH Earth Hotel in Kanadukathan where two nights are spent.
Light lunch at a local restaurant. Afternoon visits to local mansions built by the globe-trotting Hindu
merchant and banking clan called the Nattukottai Chettiars that thrived during colonialist expansion. Also
visit the shopping streets with antique and enamel shops. Dinner at the hotel.
Day 8: Friday, 22nd February Kanadukathan
Morning tour of Kanadukathan, one of 9 villages of the prominent Chettiar, where majestic villas, imposing
colonial style bungalows and other stately ruins of a bygone era still stand with their stature and grandeur.
Visit the local tile makers.
Enjoy a Bagala cooking demonstration followed by lunch. Afternoon visit to the town market and mansions
followed by free time for shopping. Return to the hotel. Cooking demonstration followed by dinner at the
hotel.
Banana Market Madurai Elephants at the Periyar Wildlife Sanctuary
Day 9: Saturday, 23rd February Kanadukathan / Madurai / Thekady
Morning departure (with luggage) to Madurai and experience the 17 acre compound of the Meenakshi
Temple, one of the holiest Hindu temples in Southern India. Visit one of the many textile and tailoring
outlets around the temple, the souk as well as the vegetable and banana market where 16 varieties of bananas
are sold.
Packed lunch. Continue to Thekady and check into Spice Village CGH Earth Hotel where two nights are
spent. Remainder of the afternoon at leisure. Dinner at the hotel.
Day 10: Sunday, 24th February Thekady
Morning spice tour of local plantation. Various kinds of spices are cultivated in Thekady including pepper,
cinnamon, clove, nutmeg, ginger, turmeric and curry leaves
Lunch at the hotel of local Keralan dishes. Visit the Periyar Wildlife Sanctuary covered in dense evergreen,
moist deciduous forests and savannah grasslands. Not only an elephant and tiger reserve, it is also home to
rare, endemic and endangered flora and fauna. The vast region is inhabited by bison, sambar, wild boar,
langur, elephants and tigers. Dinner at the hotel.
Day 11: Monday, 25th February Thekady / Cochin
Morning departure with luggage and enjoy a morning cruise on a traditional houseboat along the magical
backwaters, a network of lakes, rivers and narrow palm-fringed canals. During the journey watch life go by
on the waters edge and see the many small boats ferrying goods and people. The local economy is reliant
upon the coconut and its many derivative products, which can be seen amongst the goods being transported
on the canals.
Traditional Keralan lunch on board. Transfer to Brunton Boatyard CGH Earth Hotel (or similar) where two
nights are spent. Late afternoon walk along the shore to see the Chinese Fishing Nets, which were first
erected between 1350 and 1450. Made of Teak and Bamboo poles they resemble sculptures, but are in fact
working nets. Dinner under own arrangements.
Chinese fishing nets, Cochin Jew Town, Cochin
Day 12: Tuesday, 26th February Cochin
Morning at leisure for shopping.
Lunch under own arrangements. Afternoon city tour of Cochin, which dates from ancient times and has been
an important trading post for centuries. The legacy of this is a diverse culture and many fascinating
buildings. Begin at the old docks and merchants’ houses in Mattancherry, before continuing to visit the 16th
century ‘Dutch Palace’, which was actually built by the Portuguese but given to the Raja of Cochin and later
restored by the Dutch, hence the name, which is set in walled gardens and has exquisite interiors with Hindu
wall-paintings and teak carvings. Visit Fort Cochin, lying at the tip of the isthmus, now a heritage site, where
the fine houses formerly inhabited by British merchants can be seen, together with the 16th century church of
St. Francis and the neighbouring Basilica Santa Cruz with its vivid décor and the former Parade Ground with
its surrounding buildings. Farewell dinner at the hotel.
Day 13: Wednesday, 27th February Cochin / Mumbai
Morning visit to Jew Town with its striped warehouses, shuttered houses and fine synagogue, which
originally dates from 1567 although later rebuilt. The interior has Chinese willow-pattern floor tiles, Belgian
chandeliers and gold crowns gifted over the centuries. Explore the city’s spice markets before returning to
the hotel to check out (a small number of day rooms to share amongst the group have been arranged to store
luggage and also so the group can shower and/or change before they depart for the airport).
Lunch at the hotel. Remainder of the afternoon at leisure. Early evening transfer to Cochin airport for a
domestic flight to Mumbai arriving in the late evening.
Day 14: Thursday, 28th February Mumbai / London
Depart early morning British Airways flight (02.15hrs) to London Heathrow arriving in the early morning
(06.50hrs).
.
Tour Price
COST PER PERSON: £5,230
Single supplement: £1,445
Visa fees: TBA
Premium Economy supplement: from £269 including the airport taxes and subject to availability
Business Class supplement: from £1,437 including the airport taxes and subject to availability
The tour cost includes:
• economy class international scheduled flights
• air passenger duty, passenger service charge, airline security charges, airport taxes and fuel surcharges
where applicable – currently £335 for Economy Class (liable to change without notice)
• domestic flights as shown in the itinerary
• accommodation throughout as shown in the itinerary
• breakfast daily; 10 lunches; 10 dinners
• all entrance fees, visits and excursions as per the itinerary
• all transportation as detailed in the itinerary
• local English-speaking guide/s
• gratuities to driver/s; gratuities to guide/s; gratuities in restaurants; porterage
• the services of your tour leaders throughout
The tour cost does NOT include:
• travel insurance
• items of personal expenditure (e.g. alcoholic beverages / telephone calls / laundry etc.)
• government levies or taxes introduced after costing and publication of this programme on 10/02/18
Changes to the Itinerary
Please note, that certain elements of this itinerary, and/or the order of events, may well be subject to
alteration due to circumstances beyond our control.
Fitness to travel
Whilst we do not impose any age limitations on joining a tour, participants must be reasonably fit. The very
nature of the sightseeing involved in our tours (and the difficulties of direct access by coach in various
places) means that a considerable amount of walking and standing is unavoidable on almost all tours. We
regret that our tours are not suitable for people who have difficulty in walking, may require wheelchair
assistance at any time, or are unable to keep pace with the group. If you are in any doubt as to the suitability
of a tour, please make this known to us before you book and we will advise you accordingly. The Ultimate
Travel Company reserves the right to decline a reservation without necessarily giving a reason.
Airline Tickets
As a tour operator we have access to special airfares. While these offer good value, they do carry certain
restrictions applied by the airline. Please ask us for details.
Note: If you are thinking about using air miles to upgrade to a premium cabin on the flights, please check
with us first as fare restrictions might not permit this.
Health Requirements
No vaccinations are required for entry into India however if you have travelled within a yellow fever infected
area during the previous six days prior to arrival you will require proof of inoculation. The following
inoculations are recommended: Typhoid, Hepatitis A and B, Diphtheria, Tetanus and Polio. Malaria is
present throughout most of India so anti-malaria prophylactics are advised.
Please check recommended practice with your GP, practice nurse or travel health clinic.
Passport and Visa Information
British Nationals require a visa for India. This can be obtained through the new online e-Tourist Visa service
(currently the easiest and cheapest option), through CIBT (our recommended visa service provider) or
directly through one of the Indian Visa Application Centres located throughout the UK.
Passengers should hold a full passport, which should be valid for six months after you return to the UK and
should also have at least three empty pages for the visa. Nationals of other countries should consult their
local Indian Embassy.
Baggage Allowance
Please note that the internal flights within India have a baggage allowance of 23kg per person. Excess
baggage is charged at a flat rate of INR 300 per kg inclusive of service tax.
FCO Advice
We recommend that you periodically review the travel advice issued by the Foreign & Commonwealth
Office, which relates to all aspects of your destination, at www.gov.uk/knowbeforeyougo.
Accommodation
Hotels are chosen on the basis of category, character and location. The majority will be at least 4 star,
otherwise the best available. The projected size of the group will often rule out the use of luxury boutique
hotels. Sometimes the style of hotel will mean that not all rooms are of the same size or have the same
outlook.