Efficiency Improvements that Prevent Pollution and Save Money
Responsible Sourcing Initiative
Linda E. Greer, Ph.D.
About us:About us:
One of the largest and most effective environmental organizations in the United States
Founded in U.S. in 1970, launched in China since 1996 Offices in New York, Washington, Chicago, Los Angeles,
San Francisco and Beijing Staff of 400, highly trained environmental professionals in
science, engineering, and policy GOAL: Protect human health and environment from
dangers of pollution
About RSI:About RSI:
Use the social responsibility of multinational apparel retailers and brands and purchasing influence as leverage to reduce the impact of factories in their supply chain on environment in China
Accomplish this goal using carefully researched cost saving efficiency improvements that reduce environmental impact while saving money.
Start with low hanging fruit: cheap, easy, quick pay-back
Result: Dramatically improve environmental performance of factories in China with win-win approach good for business and the environment
http://www.eco-transport.com/uploads/image/benefits-photo.jpg
Worst performers by sector, Jiangsu, 2006
Others 9%
Commercial 3%
Plating 4%
Machinery 5%
Other Manufacturing
17%
Food 5%Metal 10% Power 2%
Construction material 4%
Chemical 26%
Textile 15%
Why Textiles?
Design of initiative: homework phase
Initial fact finding at more than a dozen fabric mills and dye houses
In-depth assessments in four selected dye houses with international expert
Identification of Ten Best Practices helpful to most mills
Expert review and comment
Real world trial at Red Bud dyeing mill in Jiangsu Province
Collaborators:
Ten Best Practices
Low hanging fruit improvement opportunities estimated to deliver:
• 25 percent reduction in total water use• 30 percent reduction in steam/coal use
• Money! Pay for themselves in less than 8 months
Ten Best Practices
Leak detection and prevention Insulation of equipment, pipes, valves,
flanges Maintain steam traps Recover heat from stacks (hot air) Recover heat from hot rinse water Screen coal , optimize boiler Optimize compressed air system Reuse condensate Reuse cooling water Reuse process water
Current Status
Assessing 15-20 mills in supply chain of brands actively cooperating in the program
Quick 1 to 1.5 day assessments by Reset Carbon All types of mills: woven, knit, yarn, denim Range in age of mills Range in size of mills
Goal: 12 or more showcase mills – documented case studies
NRDC 10 Best PracticesPlant/Type
Production
(tons/yr)
Age of Plant
Investment Costs
(RMB)
Savings
(RMB)
Payback
(months)
% Energy
Reduction
(steam)
% Elect. Reduction (kWh)
% Water Reductio
n(tons)
Fiber (A)6,684
2,003,000
3,190,286
8 24.2% 2.7% -
Fiber (B) 4,523 551,350 644,375 11 2.3% 5.3% 1%Fiber (C) 1,923 531,100 565,728 12 22.4% 15.4% 11%Fiber (D)
890 2010 757,0001,409,8
107 60.2% 1.3% -
Woven (E) 877 2010
1,100,399
771,595 18 43.4% 6.9% -
Fiber(F) 6,790 2006 445,100 752,158 7 5.8% 0.8% 10.5%Denim (G) 28,605 2011
1,468,000
1,531,000
12 6.1% 21.3% 3%
Knit (H)33,229
1,512,000
2,339,400
8 0.8% * 1.3% -
Denim (I)9,473 2005 935,000
1,622,700
7 12.0% 10.1% 32%
Denim (J)15,201 2010 849,000
2,408,000
5 9.4% 3.7% 2%
*Steam made at co-generation facility
What’s next
Complete showcase mills – assessment and implementation
Document real-world results Host technical workshops, promote awareness
For mills: they are busy with other things, they do not track or care much about resource use, buyers are not inquiring or insisting.
For retailers and brands: Many don’t know where their suppliers get their
fabric, do not develop relationships with dyeing mills
Supplier selection policies do not assess or reward environmental performance or continuous improvement
Yet progress is very slow
Are the Ten Best Practices are an elegant solution to a problem they don’t think they have??
Multinationals certainly have a problem
Urgent Need for Supply Chain Policies
Dyeing and finishing mills should be required to meet basic environmental standards to do business Meter water and energy usage data
They should be rewarded with preferred status for going beyond this minimum
They should submit data on resource use to verify performance, MNCs should spot-check
Buyers should develop direct business relationship with fabric mills and include environmental performance in score card for choosing vendors!
Thank you ! www.nrdc.org/cleanbydesign
USContact: Linda GreerE-mail: [email protected]
China Contact: 蔺梓馨 (Cindy Lin)E-mail: [email protected]电话 : 010-58794079-7916