NEW-YORK DAILY f&TBTTSVi. SUNDAY, JANUARY 31. 1904.

Hair Is the Principal Featureof Woman's Personal Charm

Ftfclnatln*Col.Turts 'h*: form a ir. #t V~ccil-* «nfi. . "••

READY-TO-WEAR COIFFURfcS oTTvlsTransformations, Wavy Knots, Bangs, &cMW& and Toupmfor Gentlemen.

"Hiir Dressing. Htir Coloring And Sc* p Trtitm

L. SHAWLarf..t H»lr gtm la the W.r!l artab:^h*d Nearly Half Onttir,54 West Uth St.. (Near 6th Aye.), New York

REDUCTION OF 50%.

S. ENEITEL,I*adies' Tailor.

1E. 3Oth st.,°:;^rDuring th*between »eason «M ha*, c decld-d to oCer

our bandioma tailor made coatumes to order, ma.de ofImported material*, sisk lined throushout, (or only

$55; worth $80.We produce only the highest trade of wor'.:m»h»h!j».

jrt.c the latest lines In the art of every ea.-ment, oaeurean absolutely ttawlesa flt. and nilour order* promptly.

We willalso clom out all our ha.ndaorua Ir, model*,left over of the season, vrhlch ar* the latest cre&tioa*of the most distinguished Paris artists, also a.a ex-quL<ilte collection of rar*

Imported Gowns.They hay* seryed their purpoie and mast be sold.

and are offered at a positive

H.&H.Pneumatic BustFOR.MS and DEVELOPLRSMature. o«!7 ai,^,Otv. nparfc .^

Px». coaiXcrt. saettk.'

*JJ nxmni 'Worn w•-. or wtthoat cor»Tcool. cle»n]T.darmbl^ 2t

*

flrjr*.Bsvasam*. to t«a tnaXf\ a«so. Ctr. .^pen'^ST«rt to iitlis; in,,|_ecfc'ly .(IcoErt tj »oaMer «tyl« »ai .^t^

=*'MM xralptor* t-2 xg^^A r«TcU:IoB a=a » \u25a0—. *«*•esltvrac who mtor -^^dv«." Write tmt s*a*Mß*B>tr«tej c;rco:»r. BjSSj Cv«-Tlncins Tettlmonlaivjn*ceU r.'MM4 jliia .-» .!l«*.ter.

HEIUEKSOH * HE.inERSOS, Ine^I)«-pt P 7. BuOtlo. •%. T.

THE MOST NUTRITIOUS.An admirable food with allits natural qualities intact,fitted to build up and maintain

EPPS'SGives Strength and Vigour

COCOA

HAAS "TAILORED- GOWNB REDUCED.

O. Haas Bros., ladle*' tailors. No. 345 Flfth-ave., opposite the Waldorf-Astoria, ar* offering

tailored costumes to order for $05. the regularprice being ?80. These gown* are modelled afterthe latest imported models and advanced de-signs, with eilk linings throughout. Perfection.>f fit and workmanship are guaranteed byMessrs. Haas. The firm is showing at the pres-ent time a fine collection of Imported gownssuitable for present wear and the coming season.

robust health, and to resistwinter's extreme cold. It isa valuable diet for children.

GRATEFUL COMFORTINC.KORA HOSE SUPPORTER.Simpleand eecure, th*hollow groove Into which the rubber bar or tongu? slides makes it tit*tiest

grip of any hos* supporter. Manufactured and patented by Ths Cora Company, Nob. 12Z end 627Brootne-st., New-Tork. At stores throughout th* United States and Canada.

Some Ways of the World.

dour hat In white mocseellne and "Val" lar«.trimmed with La France rose* and a touch c* biasavt-lvet.

But Miss Moore doe* not monopolize t!>.a coartclothes in "Th* Duke of KUlicrankie. "

There iaMiss Illington.whose evening gown ia the npisjngact la of yellow mousseline de sole, draped eatlrei*with white tulle, embroidered with gold, stlrn saadiamonds, and trimmed wita Alencon lace, mm agirdle and touch of yellow velvet an the bodice*Her second costume is a green doth coat aad skutworn with a blousa of rich lac*. trhsmed sstawhit* velvet bows. Th* coat ha* start slurssfinished with deep ruffles of the saae lace <* thebodice, and a satin belt, and both itasd the its\are trimmed with rounds of silk braid ef th*sameshade. A biscuit colored straw hat with gssa\velvet and shaded green and white pinass I*«era-with this.

A lovely gown of beige voile, trtasajsa w.taMallnes Ihc<%, the girdle of taffetas of the sumcolor. is worn in the third act. The hat that goe*with It Is of creme guipure, with white phuaea.

The evening dress worn by Miss Rouse also sNfords a charming example of Paquin nkJIL It t*an evening gown In blue gray taffeta. The free*open* over an underskirt of ivory mouss*il£* dasole and flounces of Brussels applique, and th*bodice has a Marie Antoinette fichu of mauassna*and lace, caught Infront with a buach of rose*.

ORDER BEFORE SPRING RUSH.Mcetkowtts, th* ladies' tailor. No. IS East T*s*i

tieth-st (one door east of Broadway), offers fas'

this week hlj regular ISO tailored gown, mad* te>order of Imported materials, richly silk lined, fop

only 9*l H* also offer* to make to order wa:kio#skirts from imported material, guaranteed water*proof, for Xl2CO up. Mr.MostkowiU enjoys a repu-tation as a fitter ard designer, but undoubtedly IkIs the part of wisdom to order cow, before U»spring rush sets tn.

HOW?A pleasing young person named PhoibeAspired to b« known as a Hebe;

But since she must she be.H.vv .-<_u!d she be Hebe?

A Pfccrt-e coald never a be be. —O'i.!**,

TWIGS IN WATER.From Country li>m America.

Ne->w is the tinu- to bring some twi*s indoors salput them in a va»>* of wat< on the window suLChou«»- anything yon like. arc! if yen aoni icsowwhat ,t i-. so much the bettrr. T..e:v at* thri*clatfes of twigs that are amywfilrr i".terrstiss-e;irly flowrr!:i<f thrubs. the emmr'n shnde trwxar.d." above all. the fruit tree:, wfctefe give u»Utru'ost nr.d showiest flowers. Wi:.: r buii? ar»ilfascinating study. The leaf hu<U are sreneralFnuher lone a:-..l 'pointed; fruit l>uds are sr.ort actf..t. Ifyou know whai kir.-l s4 twiss yea \u25a0"\u25a0*'\u25a0*•

-.-.\u25a0; BSlgnl nit .ilittle mercha:>dise tag at the bss*Of cacii arid re or<l the date of bringing Indoor*«.->athe c".ate cf blo^m.

In the first act Miss Moore wears an eveningdrees of white moussellne de sole, trimmed withMalli.es lace and ruchlnga of moussellne de soie.A tou"h of pink tulle finishes the decolletage.With this frock goes an evening cloak of Libertysatin, lined with pink Liberty, with a garniture ofAJencon lace and white silk embroidery.

Pompadour moussellne de sole forms the sumptu-

ous teagown in which Miss Moore first appears Inthe second act. Tills toilet is finished off with alarge collar of tucked white mousseline, trimmedwith "Val" lace, and with a deep ceinture of pale

blue crepe de chine. Later she throws over thisa dust cloak In gray tolle de sole, trimmed withgray and white braid lace and a touch of, orange

velvet. Her hat Is a French sailor, in gray straw.trtmme<l.

One of the triumphs of the ciece. so far as MissMoore's gowns are concerned. Is the day gaeja Mpale blue mouFsellr.e da sole, with epaulets • ( nar-row silk braid, which Miss Moore wean !n thothird act A lace cmplecement and a ce'.--.-white leather with design in gold are otl-«r feat-ures of a frock which 1* completed with a ;

Several of His Best Creations Worn in aLondon Play.

In "The Duke of KUUcranlde.- which Is nowbeing played at the Criterion Theatre, tn London,playgoers are treated to a brilliant display of theexquisite taste and Invention which have made thehouse of Messrs. Paquin, Limited. No. sf Dover-st.. May fair, W., London, famous all over the civ-ilized world. The gowns, hats and mantles wornIn this piece by Miss Eva Moore. Miss tlllngtonandMls» Rouse have all been designed and made byMes?rs. Paquin, and they are marvels of eleganceand beauty.

SOME PAQUIN GOWNS.

pledged Itself to the trade school her club wouldwithdraw. It had not a penny «o spare for ruchan object, and as the federation was an incor-porated body it would have toe power to &s*essthe affiliated bodies.

This statement was denied by the chairman ofthe trade school committee. Mrs. Dor* Lyon.

Miss Anne Rhoadcs, of the Post Parliament Club,declared that the lT tlca convention had taken er\unfair advantage of the executive In requesting itto decldn the mutter, and Mrs. Dow said severaltimes that the federation ought to have decidedthe matter Itself at the opening of the conference.

Mm. I.illie Devereux Blake moved that no speakerbe allowed to speak more than five minutes, or tospeak twice, but Mrs. Ralph Trautmarm said thiswas what made the trouble at rtiea. Ifthey werenot going to speak out everything In thetr minds,ehe did not know what they had come for. Themotion was put and no one voted for It but themover and seconder. Mrs. Trainmaun suggestedthat other schools besides the one In Amsterdamwith which the federation might co-operate mightbe found, and mtutlonfd one tn New-Yorit whichhad been offered Informally to the federation.The rchool at Amsterdam, according to the reports,appeared to be only a small Institution for teachingcooking and sewing.

Storm?/ Semom of Club PresidentsOver Girls' Trade School.

Confusion worse eonlounsM was the only resultcf the council of etafe presidents from New-Yorkfind th<» vicinity called by the State Federation ofWomen's Clubs to meet th» State president andexecutive committee in the Youn* Women's Chris-tian An3oclatlon. In Prooklyn. yesterday. and dla-cuss th" much flsjOMSjad trade school.

Thr> m^etln^ was probably the stormiest one hithe history of this time honored bone of contention.During the greater part of the conference half adoaen women were trying to gnin the recognitionof the (hair at the inme time. tw» or three weretrying to tnlk al once, snd feeling ran so high atSSM r°'"t that it was cxpre. even by hisses, thegentlo sway of the presld . Mr <"harles M.Dott. being barely sufficient to maintain a sem-Mn-tce of order in the excited assembly.

Mrs. I>>w b*cpo<l e.im»>sTiy and pathetically forunityand concord, and some anslstance for a sorelyperplexed executive board, but none w:is forth-coming, and the only result of a long afternoon'sdiscussion was a request, as the council could givero binding Instruction*, that the executive boarddefer action until a more practical schema could bepresented, and unrno assurance given of an Incomesufficient to support the school. This Mrs. DoreT,yon assorted was as good as burying the school.Sh« did not see how a more practical scheme couldbe presented than had been given already.

The hisses were elicited by Mrs. William 8. Mills,of the Froebel Club, who wa« so bold as to assertthat no one wanted the trsde school. An electrio

HISSES FOR SPEAKERS.

TO OPEN KEW LAUNDRIES.When the pupil begins to Iron she- hi-? <!tshc!oths,

Washcloths and similar simple small pieces, for.being a novi< •. she may scorch one or two, Inwhich ease the harm done is infinitely less thanIf tli \u25a0 article were a delicate nainsook chemise in-crusted with hand embroidery. Gradually she lamoved along to towphi am! pillowcases, then toinr.i'is' aprons, women":- underwear, shirtwaists.skirts, shirts ami collars and ci.ffs. A m;in's shirtrepresents th« acme of skill in band laundry work.but ibl< napkins, slmi le as they ssay seem tothe lay mind, stand fairly hiph ur> in the seals.

Along with tho mustering r,f the trad^ of luun-<lre«s a change I<< wrought In the women them-sflvrs. Fi-nm being poor, discouraged, spiritlessthings, undernourished, harassed by tho never-pndlng duel with renl day, they gradually recover!!.•* courage and ambition with which, most likely.they tarted out in the Hfi struggle: and relyingupon their steady, sura w.:>res they find themselvesasjata. People who watch them say that tillsit ange which 1- wrought In the attitude towardli: In these women Is marked and unroiKtakable.

l,onpr ago the laundry school reached Its limit ofpupils—fifty. As oon as money can Vie obtained thework will be expanded, but Instead of adding onnn annex t'> the building at No. t»K» West Twenty-eighth-st the nanagement prefers to build districtlaundries i;: scattered narts of the city. A laun-dry on the lower East Side v.-m nc the first to ben cted, nnd this will be followed by three others

if the necessary funds can be obtained.

women diTTer so In the auleknesa with which th-»ylenrn. Th-'se wom<-n rc.-elvo t>o cents a day andtheir dinner all tiie time they are learning."

Pound, pou:nl. t;o the irons: scrub, scrub, go thewashboard*. There ar* sixteen women ironlaK inthe front r.-.om and lilt.,n or twenty washing Intho back. A li^rht rapor, odorous, but wholesomeIn smell, like the concentrated essence of genera-tions of dj.id Monday*, permeates the place, nWt-Ing up frim the porcelain tubs of ster.ming suds.The women ber.tl over tho tubs, rubbtng and slH.sh-ir.c. and as they work the pile of moist snow whiteclothes at each worker's left hand grows steadily.Alter the dirt is washed out the rir.sln.sr begins, andIr is a dictum of the school that tho last water inWhich the clotlieb are rii:3c-d must be "flt todr!:-.l:."

A low pas ransre, more like an openwork framethan n stove, stands convei I to the iror.tr*, agas .me. lo each Ironer, protected by a little ironhood tor keeping in the neat. Each woman reg-nlates the heating o<" her own Irons. Protrudingfrom the walls over seen Ironing table ar>- foldin»r:o Is "ti which the articles lire hung to air as fust;>.a they are iin>hed.

Downstairs the Ironing or.>l »t^rchin«f of theeoUars, e;frs and shirts go on. Btarchlng 1» con-sidi red i '.'\u25a0\u25a0 as Important i^any •\u25a0- the otherprocesses, for a badly starched shirt cat;not beIroned properly by even the ni'>st expert of laun-dieasea. Colored taundreaaes are said, as a rui<*.to starch thti/ clothts too stiff. This is or.c of tiioreasons why the Cnited States Senator prefers totro to the exrcn.se of sen-.llnc: his lrMindry to New-York Instead of bavin!,- it done In Washington.

A woman who applies to the laundry lor workis fir- t •. to washing plain things, from whichshe progressta through the various articles of do-nii••tli appp.ivl. bed iiTiil table linen, untH sh*> Iscapable of washing collars, cuffs and phtrta. Whenshe sets as far $a th!:*. she is considered to bepretty well advanced. Part of her training < ondstsin betrp taught where to l« i: for .lirt. so thatthereafter she will follow siotig the sfame andthose edkea which rs! • spedaßy exposed. lTinglngun the clothes properly on the line constitutes an-other step. Some clothe.s'incs look Uke a hand atbridge.

It la co::sin>ratlons of this kind, doubtless, thatleal Mis. Smith. Of C;<?ve!and-wro is a real

fles'i-and-blood woman, slthoudl her name Ismythical—to keep ir, touch with the Charity Organ-

ization's laundry whether phe is wintering in Flor-

Ida or summering In New-Knßland or spending

tho autumn In the Adirondack*.From Washington a number of hampers and

trjr:lis of soiled linen are f .rwanled every week.a United State* Senator being among the patrons

of the lishment on West Twenty-elghth-at.

And co firmly does this eminent statesman be-lleve In the theory au-1 practice set forth by thelaundry school that even when his family is at

home on its native heath their laundry Is sent onJuft the same.

FOR UNSKILLED WOMEN.

The women who "do up" Mrs. Smith's elegantfripperies belong as a rule to one of three classes.They are wlilnxa. or des«rt*d wives, or elsewomen with sick husbands. A large majority havelittle children dependent on them, and they allbelong to the great army of unskilled laborers—

What the Laundry School Does forDiscouraged Women.

In the office of the laundry schc ol of the Charity

Organization \u25a0oatety. at X«. M5West Twenty-

elghth-st.. the telephone Is rloaißC. Inrr-rr It goes.

Burr-rr-rr. The tall yoonc negress .v!th the large

golien hoops In tho r-irs looks up from the

centrei-iece of Battenbure she is Ironlns; on aflannel pad and says something to tne middle nged

Hungarian nt her left, who i" patting and smooth-ing the gulmpe of a child's white frock into shapa

with a wet rag.

When the manager gets to the receiver this Is

what the telephone Is saylngr In Its UUputlan, el-

fin vo'.co:"Thi«i Is Mrs. Smith, of Cleveland -yx—Cleve-

land, Ohio Iexpect to leavo hcaic Monday for

Atlantic City. nrA Iwant you to hf>vo my laundry

flt the Hotel by the time Iarrivo there TueF-tey night. Too say you can"! p<U it don- in tt^ie?

Tbea send on the blue and white striped Hmona.

three pairs of stOCktßgl and those two s-kirts wltli

th- "vnl."ruffles. Oh, ye-— and that n'trhtdress with

tho \u25a0tOßecram Inclosed in dr.-wvmvork—yeu know?

Have them meet me—Tuesday nls'it. Oeodby."

The masaser hangs up the receiver. "Start nt

once on th- hamper from ?:r< Smith i-Cleveland."she says to a girl who Is bending over a pile of

soiled linen. separating flannels, handkerchiefs,

soci-s, stocks, table napkins and esOtn md currinto little heaps. "Oive Mrs. Harrlty th* white

ski-ts to begin en and set Mtenla to work on the

\u25a0trtped sTtmrma blu and Mte one. Ime.in."

A CHICAGO PATRON.

From Cleveland to New-York seems a tidy dis-

tance to send the week's wash, but there is a

man in Chtcai o who c:in-t reeeßjcOe himself to

using a pecket handkerehlef or drawing on a pair

Of socks unless th.-y have Brat been Uundered at

ti-.n laundry school of the Charity OrgmrJsatfoa in

New-York. Somrtimc-» Vr.'.a rr:l" ;ie:uls his sum"

mora rit Capt Cod, and in that event the trains

that Ooze through tro pinewoods of SouthernMassachusetts carry back and forth his hamper

of laundry Just the same. His friendd In the Windy

City Bird at him for nn old BSald."\V.11, Iknow they'll do my things Just right

snd won't lost any of them," he retorts by way

of excuse for his eccentricity. "They don't chewrr.y collars up or bone my best shirts, and a pair

of cults thnt starts out wilh bhM stripes on itgoes to its grave blue ar.i'. strlpod. Ifthat doesn't

afford a reason for sending my wash to Kam-

chatka if it were neceasary, Ishould like to seea hotter."

THEIR SPIRITS RETURN.

extending ur<er the arm. ar.fi the trimming Is car-ried over trie topa of th«» sleeves. One nightdress

cut ,n,n the c^ernisse fa-h'.on lias the front coveredwith an elaborate embroidered r^ttem. which in-cludes a monogram on one shoulder, and luiishea

in ii flower cv'.sn "n th^ other. , .Some of the white p*»ttlco:ita have no lace and

are trimmed only by p-nhroidcred flounce?, the em-broidery being mo«t elaborate. Alldra^lnff st.inssthl» year ara run throjgh embrolaered button-

A nice use of embroidered buttonholes Is seenon a dressins Jacket of pale blue flannel. Th!s isfa*ter.erl down the front and the sleeves are gath-ered Into a ruftie at thi> wrist hv m.-ar.s of ribbon

aassed through embroidered buttonholes.A most plctureoQus Ir.nrr dress Is made of soupl»

black velvet. The iklrt has no trimming aav« aline of "ilk rr!r

"\u25a0 about tho bottom. Th<> aleeveg

consist of a ihort dose rehrtt puff only a fewinches deep. From this noir.t to the wrist the

sleeve taltes the popular bag shr.pe. and Is madeof lines of rucbings dons in a wnite silk muslinspotted with black.

A LAUNDRY SCHOOL OF THE CHARITY OEGANIZATION 6OCIETY.•

playing court tennis. One was dressed neatly, witha clean, white sweater and white flannel trousers!and looked the geniiomaji. The other were anold brown woollen thins that looked ss if it h dnevor setn the tub and old gray weather-beatentrousers and lo.iK'<l horrid. afortuoately th«»latter was nay brother, and wto. \u25a1 ] told liimaboutit he said, 'Oh. rats!'

"Nevertheless we women are greatly influenced bysuch thiiiK^. and 1 a.m sure it helps a man on Inevery way if he studies v liitlo what is befittingand g0...j looking.

"Amf-rli-;ui men hav<» prcatiy Improved in thl.respect durii-.^ the last few decades. It is now anadvantage Instead of a disadvantage for a businessman to tv- w.->ll dressed, and taking hem a? awhole. Americans are (airly well "set up.' tjtiilthere Is room iur improvement ."

A nt£a\H AIR CURE."Itis rather a hern!" cure for bronchial nffe^tlons

suddenly to bare one's throat in zero weather." paid

a man recently, "but Ibeg:\n the x; -iiment afortnight Rgo, and eertataljr so far have sxperl-enced no 111 effects. Idis'-rirdr 1 my muiiler, whichIwore habitually und*• my overcoat, and my highchoker?, and put on tarnrdown. coll irw and left flatthr- liar of my overcoat. A™ nr-t it felt ratherbreezy around my tnroal, but now that lhaveeot used i" It,Irather like the air. ibegan thisfresh air <lire." he continued, "by the .i.ivi'''.- ofthe expressman who comes every day or so to

"TThat annoys one chiefly about the Bne of socialdemarcation In America." said a man of the world,

"Is that it' is so arbitrary and yet so capricious.

It is forever changing. Inail other countries you

know wh«-re you are. and how you stand, as theboun-lary limits of the different s<*ts depend upon

stable conditions; but h<-re a ceaseless effort Is

»i«sc*ssary to hoM jour own. end the struggle be-k conies weariKorae beyond words. Two ye.--rs ago I

Iconsidered mystlf distinctly one of the elect. I

«m askt»d to every emart function, and had din-

Jiers f'>r nearly every SMSlllllg Th,nIwent abroad

and stayed until this winter, an-1 now 1 fln.i that

new Pharaohs have arisen that know not Joseph.

The women irho are eßtertatalac this ason are,

with tew exoepttooe. not those with whom Iwas

intimate a few years ago. and even my old friends

\u25a0eem to have forgotten SM somewhat. Ishall

have to hasfci to stn«ls Bor a social existenceagaiii. or ci.<.- Rive Itup .ii;d be drooped practically.

••In bsMon." he continued, Ifa man goes toIndia or Africa for s S3BBT or two. lip finds on his

return that the conditions an- practically un-changM. and be drop? back into his sM place with-out effort. There are no BSW people that it Isaecf-ssary to liecoma a'-qualnted with, and his oldfriends are nut so take:i up wi;h strangers thatthey overlook his presence."

"But it sm*t only that they forget." said thewoman to whom he was speakJns, who also had

her • var.ee "IJMJI BSttbWtely Ignore. Amer-ican soci ty is Just like a kaleiJoscopo— one sea-son there is or.c arrangement of brilliant little tin-»elly bits, th' n there w:i: be a turn, and everything

forms new cnmt>i::aticni=. ., ."A woman whom 1 thi light an intimate friend of

mm« ca\6 a dinner dance this winter. 'Where doyou suppose we will bs putT Ieaid to a mutualfriend who liad also b«en asked. -jSome one calledTivs <iin:j*r th- other 'iay the Filial te*t, for theypa-- that Mii:r»<l E. baa •znafed the tables ac-ccfdlng to v\!j;i- bhe con-iden the .Tocial stutus f>ther friends. At htr own table thtre will be, ofcourse th« very smanc-fi. a!i«l the others will bearranped in l^e ratio, and then. I'm »old, sheBaJ-i sho intf-iui? to have « *tr«SHI table." whereshe will put those Vhoxn f»h< does not know how to«-lass and tbOM whom tba 'loes not consider so de-sirsble.' And do yo-.i know,'* aa<led ihe speakerInaienantiy. "that I.who imapined niyself securely•»!i St." was put at the 'irash table.'"

TH!? rNFLUEN'CIi OF CLOTHE9.

That success and happiness ere dependent in a

fi-oat BHssnn m tar ilotbes is very hard fori:;cv.r :\u25a0.-.\u25a0.'! r.t.d aoaca to appreciate. It Is cer-wlr'ydiflicjlt to realize that the sartorlal part ot

vs :- even BMN ir.ii'ortaiit than our actual per-r<nality, and yc-t we havo or.ly to consider whatthe wor'.d tvooU be srltbout the garments that be-Isbsjl pesit: n to ttpt* ciate the truth of tho saying

thut it is BBS iu-diY.zra that make fine birds,

r'ancy en ti::r.y irttheot its uniforms! A battleship

niat.ucil by a hvte-osjneous'.y appareled crew c*eail ,rs sad ofll \u25a0 r«l Acoronation v.lihout the gor-

eeo-s rates of rtn.te. «r for the matter of that a^convejitior.;-'. d-r.:v r puty with the guests in Qrj^-liaryttiire! ll^-xB'.ouchy and cixmon and alm'Q3^ignoblu tmxj o;:o vonSd appear:

OetteialT •' '\u25a0 nlo' R7i ar?'<l which should re-ctlve careful co:i :-.iration, zr>i the man or womanwiio affects a \u25a0».\u25a0:•.<>! it to such vanities, as suchpeople are vat t to call tfccm, is vt-rj' foolish andbhort&>ghted.

•\u25a0I «ish m:ti COCM reillzr," r«-n-.arked a your.g

\u25a0woman recently, "that their habiliments are quite

ci irr:i/C.-:ai.i '.o tltea as ourb arc to us. Ido not

rre:'r. \lnicky" clothes, f<r. ot course, an over-ilumi i' man Is ss B«J as. If not worse than, ai-lovcrniy clothed imr; but a n<*t. clean, becoming

attire appropriate to each occasion Is nowadays an•scentUi. l"or a r.:a.n Is Show uoh respect to hisown ptrsou and lo c'.V.ers Is SJ-fly befitting, and<lR ca:,n^)t hc^r. l-kins d. man beit.;r wh«n h« looksa» his best. Not lons a«u 1 witcned two men

our house. Ons morning when th<s thermometer.mark. <J four degrees below sero he cams in with atrunk, and Inoticed that ha wore only a mnall canwnti littie, round ear tabs, v flannel shirt, veryopen at the neck, and a thick pea Jacket If«theonly wayIcan keep warm.' he said when Iaskedhim how be could stand tho cold! 'Iused to wearsvemtsra uu to my ears a.nd fur caps and suchthings, and Ineatly froz^ and had colds all thetiir.e. This winter Ihaven't put on any of them.a:.<! have U<»rt all ri^ht.' ItoW him how Iwascontinually troubl.-.i with bronchial arfectlona andhe said Iwould better try his plan, whichIam do-tiifc. and re:illy th'.r.k it i.s ROing to work.*

Her "Parisian Trousseau.Paris, January '--\u25a0•

Or.c gets the bast of fashion 'Seas In ordering atrousseau, especially at tUrn time of the year, whentil*spring fa.hlons are still in the air. A young

brWe who is to b« married fcefore Easter has themost astor.M:;rig advice from, two of the Importantcouturiers she is consulting in regard to her out-fit:

"Have your ekiris made verr full In ths back,but without fulness on the sides." As the brideIs to marry a Frenchman and to liveIn Franco thisremark seems im:ortant. At the present momentKren-hwom'ii are "blouscd" to death; their frownssimply hanc in all the folds thai, can be piled onthe figure. If there is to be a change. It U aMsfldse and \u25a0MgMßtsi one.

Ths travelling gown is to be mad* by one of thefamous dressmakers, and wl!l be copied after onecl htm first spring models. The material Is a fancy*ark blue ana black striped doth. The skirthangs tn a Lox pleat front and b«ck, with the•tripes running across, and on the aides It is ar-ranged tn rather broad sld« pleats, with the stripesoo the bias. The pieats are stitched to the knees,•r-.fi

'nis only a moderate flare below. Theja.iei is dose fitting, showing the seams (an inno-

vation »<><->. ends at th« waist line In front andr.r.ishe* withlittle coattalla in the back. Itis lint-1iviihbright green cloth, and the linen collar has a\u25a0•as) cravat of bright green.

Th. wedding gown is to be of Alen^on lac*tttMMd with raoussellae de sole ir the form ofTMIJI rose*. rCothlne more dainty or »\u25a0.:!:,..

Wi^Vm-afined -, Abc'?t? t lh<) shoulder* and rat-vm<^n< o\tr thj eleev^-s Is a series or these roita

"TUB CLd* WOMA-NVWOMAN'S WOULD. WPiflG'

A MONTHLY MAGAZINEDEVOTE ESPECIALLY TO TUE IXTEBESTS iWBBrfvp

IN CLUB LIFE. AND ALL SIMILAR FORMS OF ORGANIZATION-BLI JY q?ENO; IN ITS SCOFE AND POLICY TO APPEAL Tv THI WUOLE^

' 'fmJrOP.

WOMEN AT LARGE. THE OFFICIAL OROAN OF WOMEN"? CLUB^. £J£ .MRS. DOItE LYOX. PUBLISHED MONTHLY..rA"» HTFTH-AVE, >*\u25a0'" -i *FOIi SaLJu AT AL.lt XEWSDKAL.EH&.

'

thrill ran through the audience at this audaciousassertion, and a chorus of "N"o. N'o's" and hlneswas heard. Half a dozen women B;>rarg to theirfeet, and tha president declared that Mrs. WilliamTod Helmuth had the floor.

"Why are women walking our streets at night?"asked Mrs. Helmuth. "If they had a means oflivelihood that a trade would g!vo them, do youthink they would do It? Why are young womendjing of consumption in our hospitals? If theyhad not had to work for starvation w;-.ges, mtnywould never have contracted the d!so.ise. There isno iie» talking about educating public opinion andnsklng the legislature to provide such training forgirls. We have been to Albany and tried to movenot so much publlo opinion as our legislators there.They had no money tor girls, but a few daysafterward they voted $UX>.OOO for n. veterinary col-lege. We made another visit, R-...1 thL-y still hadno money, but the- next <lay they vot.d $150,000 forth<> Dewey pantd*. Don't tnlk about influencingtho legislature. If we want this thine done w<»have not to put our hands In our pockets and doIt."

Mrs. Helmuth did not approve of the presentpluns for the school, which provide only for In-struction In cooking and eewlng. Sha wanted atrade school, she said, not a kindergarten, andwould give the 1600 she has pledged for nothingelse. She thought there would be no difficultyaboutthe money if the school were ence started, andseveral presidents said that though thetr clubsdisapproved of the plan, they would support theexecutive board In whatever action It saw fit totake, and Mrs. Mills said that If the federattca

with little falling enfis finished with the- tiniestof lace J.ibots.A visiting cown of cloth In n. deep ecru shade

Is made up with lace of the same tint and with cai-i.urod. cloth covered buttons. Tt-e skirt hangs

to the knees in a scrks oi deep points ornamentedwitl: a cluster of buttons, ar.a is finished out withthe lace, 'ihe c«iat har.gs in the same pointed foldsin front ar..i in finished out with a Ucy frill. Thireis a belt of old pink that turns into little coattallaarii is ornamented with buttons. The plecves fallInto a big double ruch be'.ow the 1bow that 13separated by a band of pink velvet trimmed withbuttons.

Another costuma of the same frenre is of puce-colorid cloth made In very full f:u>hlr>n. There Isa voice on the Jnckt-t that is trimmed with bigraised rnbrold>re<l rounds done in tho same color.The coat Is fulled from this yok« and gatheredinto a crushed b^lt ol *oft gray ki«J. The skirth.inp;s from a little scalloped yoke and l.s trimmedwith design i!one in mohair braid of the same color.The jicket has a small vest of white cloth orna-r*ii.if,l with gold buttons hanging from gold links.Agold buckle fastens the belt.

A volla gown In tan color has th» skirt trimmedWtta two deeo rows of lare in th* Fame color.Kuchings of taffeta put on in festoons head thesetiounces, whtch are deeper in the back than inthe front. Tho bodice hiis no apparent armhole,an>l the sleeve, which takes the form of deepflounces. 1? shirred on e-wrnl inches below theshoulder. Under these two ruffles is a puff of liceto the wrist. The bodice has a coat front ar Ivestof a dull old brocade, with velvet stripes of elancolor running through It. The elan velvet makesa belt. Elan, which is a tawny yellow, is a fash-ionable shad.- at present.

There are some nlc«t and novpl Ideas in the lin-gerie part of the trousseau. One Ftyla of corsetcover is made entirely of squares of embroideredlinen B!:d squares of lnce. This ramc Idea appear*on come of the rlfhtgowns. There a»t! lace yokestrirnlnert with set-In pieces of bati to. Anothernightdr.'w yoke Is cut up la Uttle square* by meansSi..-jJoiir work, and these are embroltlerod withi-.ur t.e grs. Ie most cases the yokes arc v«ry dcci*

tho women and men who har* no trade, nocalling.The object of the school la primarily to give th«women a trade and to support them while theyare learning It. Wages are paid dally when thelaundry closes, GO cents to every worker on herfirst day. and from that up to $1SO, according toeklll and rapidity. With tho wages go a good hotdinner, and In winter a cup of hot coffeo and aroll In the morning, for many of the women haveto stop to dress their children and take them toa day nursery before they reach the laundry at8:30. and sometimes they would be forced to workhalf tho day on an empty stomach were It not

o^^hof

braea^en tt

daaprr

tohvl^ohvl^sUnaII3t3

t- nig^ VMaTsTndV?^ thV°?r motnw calls &*&ll«le one!££ h^kh£ £T* earnings Jlnjrllnr.in her pocketmost .hii0iht> 10™ room-two rooms at themost—which she calls home. But she is a nannywoman, lor she knows that there 13 work for *herahead as long as she needs it. and if the money"jg^W ts sure Ud promptly l"al.l th° mm°nßy

But the money and tho dinner and the cud ofC7htr!vn *aI,K A tne ""Alliedlaborer evolvesenV°ageme^t P.eroVSdreSß she ha" a chanc* to tak*have'" could 3i Ce

pa great many more thrn yp»

SSdStTSISS E-

V- H- *«\u25a0•>"»• superin-;'"'"'\u25a0 .A woman will wt a cnanoe to work oatFt*t i \u25a0! dJ^! a *'«'c-sometime(s as a *üb-whV™ h»* i n<ilaundr y oft«n in a private family

a^.a£^ <siarw*thba

«!? here m \u25a0 Bhe had a

GIVrXQ THEM A CHANCE."Sometimes a friend will pay ut IS on behalf ofsome poor woman to give her a course in laundry

wori. While nominally this course consists ortwelve lessons, Inreality tlier* .are many more, as

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