Download - Industrial attachment of micro fibre ltd
INDUSTRIAL TRAININGCourse Code: Tex -4036
INDUSTRIAL ATTACHMENT
MICRO FIBRE LTD
ACKNOWLEDGEMENT
At first my gratefulness goes to Almighty Allah for giving me strength and ability tocomplete the industrial training and this report. You have made my life more bountiful. Mayyour name be exalted, honored and glorified.
Now I wish to take this excellent opportunity to thank a lot of people who have assistedand inspired me, Prof. Syed Fakhrul Hassan my supervisor, to whom I am extremely indebtedfor his tremendous support and guidance throughout my training period. Working with him Ihave not only earned valuable knowledge but also was inspired by him innovativeness whichhelped enriches my experience to a greater extent. His ideas and way of working was trulyremarkable.
I would like to thank the management of the MICRO FIBRE LTD. for giving me theopportunity to complete the industrial training successfully and also for their valuablesuggestion. My deepest gratitude goes to Executive Director Mr. Amirul Haque, GeneralManager Mr. Mizanur Rahaman Patwoary, Assistant general manager Mr. Solaiman Hossain,MICRO FIBRE LTD. for their permission to conduct my industrial training without which itwould be impossible. Their generous support is greatly appreciated. I would also like to thankspecially our senior brothers and sisters working there efficiently as textile engineer. I am greatlyindebted to them. I also want to thank executives, senior executives and other official’s employeeof MICRO FIBRE LTD. for helping me to complete industrial training successfully. Mygratitude also goes to all the employees of MICRO FIBRE LTD. for their sincere co-operation,support and valuable advices.
Finally my heartfelt thanks goes to my training mates for their indescribable co-operation& sincerity.
Introduction:
Final course industrial training is one of the most essential parts of engineering &technical education. This industrial training is included in our syllabus to acquaint us with thepractical implementation of the technology studied within the industrial environment. Though it isvery helpful & lays the milestone for starting the carrier for fresh Textile graduates.
Fabric manufacturing and Wet processing technology which occupies a vast field inmodern Textile technology is undergoing many stages of processing. Many problems are generallybeing encountered during each operation stage starting from yarn to fabric and fabric desizing tofinishing stage. Finally from mill training, we learn practical Knowledge about on fabricmanufacturing and wet processing under industrial environment. We think it will be helpful in ourfuture carrier.
Vision:
To establish as a one stop source for the Global knit Apparel market and to satisfyand meet customers expectation by developing and providing products and services on time,which offer value in terms of Quality, Price, Safety and Environmental impact.
Assuring complete compliance with the international quality standards and alsoproviding the employees internationally acceptable working condition and standards. Topromote the development and to use human talent and equal opportunity of employment.
Mission:
Micro fibre realizes the need to take out a competitive segment in the changing globalmarket of today through technological excellence and human expertise. Micro fibre is committed totranspose its local success to the world scene.
Industrial Attachment Report 2011
SChashara
Location Of TheMICRO FIBRE GROUP
Shibo Market
E
Micro
W
N
Ramarvag
Narayanganj
Fatullah
Fibre
Fatullah
Stadium
Fatullah
Rail
Sign Tikatol
ChittagongBoard
ZatraBari
Kamolapur
railstation Gulistan
Industrial Attachment Report 2011
Contents
CHAPTER-01..............................................................................................................1
PROJECT DESCRIPTION .......................................................................................1
Name of the project........................................................................................................................................................... 1
Sister organizations........................................................................................................................................................... 1
Type of the mill ................................................................................................................................................................. 1
Year of establishment........................................................................................................................................................ 1
Registered Office............................................................................................................................................................... 1Factory Address ................................................................................................................................................................ 1
Communication................................................................................................................................................................. 1
Sponsors ............................................................................................................................................................................ 1
Capacity ............................................................................................................................................................................. 2
Project cost ........................................................................................................................................................................ 2
Project area ....................................................................................................................................................................... 2History of project development: ....................................................................................................................................... 2
Industrial Attachment Report 2011
Different departments:...................................................................................................................................................... 3
Product mix:...................................................................................................................................................................... 3
LAYOUT DESIGN ........................................................................................................................................................... 4
Layout plan of printing section:....................................................................................................................................... 5
Remark: ............................................................................................................................................................................. 6Physical Infrastructure: ................................................................................................................................................... 7
CHAPTER -2...............................................................................................................8
MANPOWER MANAGEMENT...............................................................................8
Organ gram of man-power administration...................................................................................................................... 8
Management system: ........................................................................................................................................................ 8
Shift change: ..................................................................................................................................................................... 9
Total Section Wise Man power Management system: .................................................................................................... 9Responsibilities of S.P.O/P.O:........................................................................................................................................ 10
Job description of S.P.O/P.O................................................................................................................................ 10
Remarks........................................................................................................................................................................... 10CHAPTER-3..............................................................................................................11
MACHINE DESCRIPTION....................................................................................11
Industrial Attachment Report 2011
List of Single Jersey Circular knitting Machineries :................................................................................................... 11
List of Single Jersey Circular knitting Machineries :................................................................................................... 12
List of Double Jersey Circular knitting Machineries : ................................................................................................. 13
List of Auto Stripe Circular knitting Machineries :...................................................................................................... 14
List of Flat Bed knitting Machineries : ......................................................................................................................... 14List of Cloth Inspection Machineries : .......................................................................................................................... 15
Machine Picture.............................................................................................................................................................. 16
Lay-out Plan of knitting Machineries : ......................................................................................................................... 18
Remarks : ........................................................................................................................................................................ 20CHAPTER -04...........................................................................................................22
RAW MATERIALS..................................................................................................22
Types of Raw Materials: ................................................................................................................................................. 22
Yarn: ............................................................................................................................................................................22
Grey Fabrics:.............................................................................................................................................................23
Chemicals:..................................................................................................................................................................24
Commonly used dyes in fabric dyeing section in Micro fibre Ltd ................................................................24
Industrial Attachment Report 2011
Chemicals & their function:........................................................................................................................................... 26
Chemicals used in Dyeing and their function: ...................................................................................................26
Printing chemicals function: ..................................................................................................................................28
Urea ..............................................................................................................................................................................28
Resist salt......................................................................................................................................................................28
Na .................................................................................................................................................................................28
Thickener......................................................................................................................................................................28
Price: ...........................................................................................................................................................................29
Annual requirement: ................................................................................................................................................29
Remarks: ......................................................................................................................................................................... 29Chapter-05 .................................................................................................................30
Production planning, sequence & operation ..........................................................30
Introduction and Basic Procedure of Planning and Control:................................................................................. 30Recommendable points of a buyer:................................................................................................................................ 30
Production Planning: ..................................................................................................................................................... 31
Knitting section ............................................................................................................................................................... 32
Industrial Attachment Report 2011
Production parameters: ..........................................................................................................................................32
Points that should consider in case of G.S.M. changing: ................................................................................32
Production flow chart:.................................................................................................................................................... 33
Description of production process: ................................................................................................................................ 33
GSM:............................................................................................................................................................................34
Fabric width: .............................................................................................................................................................34
RPM:.............................................................................................................................................................................34
Loop length: ...............................................................................................................................................................34
No. of feeder or no. of cone: ................................................................................................................................34
Gauge:..........................................................................................................................................................................35
Production calculation: ............................................................................................................................................35
Following Counts are used to achieve the mentioned G.S.M: ..................................................................................... 38
Relation between yarn count, fabric type, stitch length and finished GSM: ............................................................... 39
Fabric Dyeing Section:................................................................................................................................................... 44
Production flow chart for fabric: ........................................................................................................................44
Industrial Attachment Report 2011
Process sequence:....................................................................................................................................................45
Pretreatment: ...........................................................................................................................................................45
Scouring-Bleaching:....................................................................................................................................................... 46
Pretreatment program: (scouring ,bleaching and enzyme)............................................................................46
Bio-Scouring:.................................................................................................................................................................. 48
Enzyme Treatment: .................................................................................................................................................48
Dyeing: ............................................................................................................................................................................ 50
Dying program for ME dyes:.................................................................................................................................50
Dyeing program for HE Dyes: ...............................................................................................................................51
Dying program for W Dyes:...................................................................................................................................52
Dying program for Turquise Dyes:.......................................................................................................................53
Dying program for KHW Dyes: .............................................................................................................................54
Dyeing program for HF dyes:................................................................................................................................55
Dyeing program for WHITE color (Without enzyme): ...................................................................................56
Dyeing program for WHITE color (With enzyme): .........................................................................................57
Industrial Attachment Report 2011
Dyeing program for Disperse Dyes: ....................................................................................................................58
Re-dyeing Process: ...................................................................................................................................................59
Stripping process:....................................................................................................................................................60
After Treatment Of All Program: .......................................................................................................................61
After dyeing for neutralization: ..........................................................................................................................62
For fixing: ..................................................................................................................................................................62
Softener solution(10% solution):..........................................................................................................................62
Necessary calculations used in textile dyeing processes:.............................................................................................. 63
Molarity ......................................................................................................................................................................63
Normality ...................................................................................................................................................................63
Stock solution preparation ....................................................................................................................................63
Dyeing calculation.....................................................................................................................................................63
Common textile auxlliaries used in dyeing: .................................................................................................................. 64
Acid..............................................................................................................................................................................64
Alkalis..........................................................................................................................................................................64
Industrial Attachment Report 2011
Buffer .........................................................................................................................................................................64
Oxidizing agent.........................................................................................................................................................64
Reducing agent..........................................................................................................................................................64
Surfactants ...............................................................................................................................................................65
Wetting agent...........................................................................................................................................................65
Detergent...................................................................................................................................................................65
Lubricant ....................................................................................................................................................................65
Anti-foaming agent ..................................................................................................................................................65
Anti-creasing agent .................................................................................................................................................65
Anti-pilling agent......................................................................................................................................................65
Leveling agent ...........................................................................................................................................................65
Dispersing agent.......................................................................................................................................................65
Retarding agent ........................................................................................................................................................65
Carrier ........................................................................................................................................................................66
Chemical formula of common chemicals used in textile dyeing:...................................................................66
Industrial Attachment Report 2011
Problems Encountered In Dyeing: ............................................................................................................................... 66
Uneven Dyeing...........................................................................................................................................................66
Uneven Shade in Rope to Rope..............................................................................................................................67
Off Shade..................................................................................................................................................................67
Dye Spots...................................................................................................................................................................67
Batch to Batch Shade Variation...........................................................................................................................67
Crease Mark ..............................................................................................................................................................67
Running Marks...........................................................................................................................................................67
Intensive Foaming ....................................................................................................................................................68
Patchy Dyeing............................................................................................................................................................68
Miscellaneous Problems ..........................................................................................................................................68
Remarks: ......................................................................................................................................................................... 68
Printing............................................................................................................................................................................ 68Sample Preparation ........................................................................................................................................................ 69
Bulk Production:............................................................................................................................................................. 70
Industrial Attachment Report 2011
Available Printing Style in Micro Fibre LTD................................................................................................................ 70
Types of Printing in Micro Fibre Group: ...................................................................................................................... 70
Reactive printing: .....................................................................................................................................................70
Discharge printing: .................................................................................................................................................. 71
Pigment printing: ...................................................................................................................................................... 71
Recipe of Pigment paste:........................................................................................................................................ 71
Recipe of Discharge paste:....................................................................................................................................71
Recipe of reactive Paste: .......................................................................................................................................71
Pollutants during printing process:......................................................................................................................72
Finishing section............................................................................................................................................................. 72
Objective of finishing:............................................................................................................................................72
Types of finishing: ...................................................................................................................................................73
Flow chart of final process (knit fabric) ...........................................................................................................74
The machines that are used in open line that are given bellow: ..................................................................74
The machines that are used in tube line that are given bellow: ..................................................................75
Industrial Attachment Report 2011
Machine Specification: ...........................................................................................................................................75
Squeezer Machine:...................................................................................................................................................78
Hydro-extractor m/c..............................................................................................................................................78
Dryer m/c :..............................................................................................................................................................78
High Production Dryer:...........................................................................................................................................78
Utility:.............................................................................................................................................................................. 79
Calendar M/C: ...........................................................................................................................................................80
Width Compactor .....................................................................................................................................................80
Stentering Machine......................................................................................................................................................... 84
Purpose of the m/c:.................................................................................................................................................84
Main parts of the machine:....................................................................................................................................85
Procedure for Heat set for Lycra s/j fabric: ..................................................................................................87
Factor Consideration:..............................................................................................................................................88
CHAPTER-6..............................................................................................................90
Quality Assurance System........................................................................................90
Industrial Attachment Report 2011
Quality assurance: .......................................................................................................................................................... 90
Object of quality control:................................................................................................................................................ 90
Scope of quality control:................................................................................................................................................. 91
Quality Control Flow Chart: .......................................................................................................................................... 91
Quality Management system:......................................................................................................................................... 92
Online QC ...................................................................................................................................................................92
Off Line Test:...........................................................................................................................................................93
WORKING PROCEDURE FOR LAB........................................................................................................................... 94List of Dyeing and Qc Laboratory Machinaries............................................................................................................ 95
Quality Standard:.......................................................................................................................................................... 100
Fabric Inspection:..................................................................................................................................................100
Grey Fabric Inspection.........................................................................................................................................100
Finished Fabric Inspection:................................................................................................................................. 101
Procedure of the Different Laboratory Tests: ............................................................................................................. 103
Color Fastness to Wash Test: ............................................................................................................................103
Required instrument:.............................................................................................................................................104
Industrial Attachment Report 2011
Procedure :...............................................................................................................................................................104
Evaluation:................................................................................................................................................................104
Washing fastness for solid dyeing is checked normally 3 times e.g. ........................................................104
Color the Fastness to Rubbing (Dry & Wet) Test: ........................................................................................104
Procedure:................................................................................................................................................................105
Evaluation:................................................................................................................................................................105
Color Fastness to cool Water: ............................................................................................................................105
Testing Solution: ....................................................................................................................................................105
Color Fastness to hot Water: .............................................................................................................................106
Testing Solution: ....................................................................................................................................................106
Color Fastness to Perspiration Test: ................................................................................................................107
Color fastness to light:.........................................................................................................................................108
Accepted Quality standard: .......................................................................................................................................... 108
Measuring the Dimensional Stability (Shrinkage & Spirality): ...................................................................108
Spirality test calculation: .................................................................................................................................... 110
Industrial Attachment Report 2011
pH of a Dyed Fabric Test .....................................................................................................................................111
Quality Standard:.......................................................................................................................................................... 112
SHORTLY DESCRIBED ABOUT OEKO-TEX STD100:................................................................................. 112
Remarks: ....................................................................................................................................................................... 113CHAPTER-07..........................................................................................................114
MAINTENANCE ....................................................................................................114
Maintenance of machinery: ......................................................................................................................................... 114
Break down Maintenance:..................................................................................................................................... 114
Routine Maintenance: ............................................................................................................................................ 114
Manpower Set-Up For Maintenance:.......................................................................................................................... 115Maintenance procedure:............................................................................................................................................... 115
Maintenance work to the different machines:............................................................................................................. 116
Boiler Maintenance Schedule:............................................................................................................................. 116
Dyeing m/c maintenance Schedule .................................................................................................................... 117
Compacting m/c maintenance:............................................................................................................................. 118
Maintenance tools/equipments & their functions:...................................................................................................... 119
Industrial Attachment Report 2011
Remarks: ....................................................................................................................................................................... 120CHAPTER-08..........................................................................................................121
UTILITY SERVICE ...............................................................................................121
Available Utility Facilities:........................................................................................................................................... 121
Electricity:............................................................................................................................................................... 121
Gas:................................................................................................................................................................................ 122
Water: ............................................................................................................................................................................ 122Boiler:............................................................................................................................................................................ 122
Compressor: .................................................................................................................................................................. 123
Source of Utility:........................................................................................................................................................... 124
Utility cost: .............................................................................................................................................................124
Remark: ......................................................................................................................................................................... 125Water treatment plant ................................................................................................................................................... 125
Process Flow chart.................................................................................................................................................125
Effluent Treatment Plant (ETP) .................................................................................................................................. 126
Flow chart for ETP: ...............................................................................................................................................127
Industrial Attachment Report 2011
Effluent analyzing report: ...................................................................................................................................128
Ref: ............................................................................................................................................................................128
USPEA(United States Environment Protection Agency) .............................................................................128
Product Quality Checked: ....................................................................................................................................128
Chemicals Used in ETP:.........................................................................................................................................129
CHAPTER-09..........................................................................................................130
STORE & INVENTORY CONTROL ..................................................................130
Inventory system for raw material: .............................................................................................................................. 130
Grey fabrics store:................................................................................................................................................130
Dyes & chemicals store: .......................................................................................................................................130
Spares:......................................................................................................................................................................130
Finished goods: ....................................................................................................................................................... 131
Remarks: ....................................................................................................................................................................... 131CHAPTER-10..........................................................................................................132
COST ANALYSIS...................................................................................................132
Price of the product: ..................................................................................................................................................... 132
Industrial Attachment Report 2011
Remarks: ....................................................................................................................................................................... 132CHAPTER-11..........................................................................................................133
MARKETING ACTIVITIES.................................................................................133
Consumers of Product:................................................................................................................................................. 133
Name of buyer:.............................................................................................................................................................. 133
Product Label:............................................................................................................................................................... 133
Package Size & Label:.................................................................................................................................................. 134
Local Market:................................................................................................................................................................ 134Importing countries: ..................................................................................................................................................... 134
Manpower of marketing: .............................................................................................................................................. 134
Marketing strategy:....................................................................................................................................................... 135
Duties and responsibilities of marketing officer: ........................................................................................................ 135Remarks: ....................................................................................................................................................................... 135
CHAPTER -12.........................................................................................................136
CONCLUSION........................................................................................................136
Industrial Attachment Report 2011
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CHAPTER-01
PROJECT DESCRIPTION
Name of the project
Sister organizations
Type of the mill
Year of establishment
Registered Office
Factory Address
Communication
Sponsors
MICRO FIBRE GROUP
A-One polar Ltd,Liberty Knitwear Ltd,Midland Knitwear Ltd,Orient Chem.-Tex Ltd.
100% export oriented knit composite textile mill.
1998
331, Tongi Dioversion Road, Moghbazar, Dhaka – 1217,Bangladesh
Ramarbagh, Kutubpur, Fatullah, Narayangonj,Bangladesh0189-214648, 0173-034617 (E.D)0171-3001607 (D.G.M-Production),0173- 011112 (Merchandising Manager)
The project is easily accessible by road. The route hasbeen clarified in the location map presented in theprevious page.
The mill is sponsored by M.S. Zaman.
Industrial Attachment Report 2011
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Capacity
Project cost
Project area
Gray knit fabric production 8000 Kg/day(approximately)
Dyed knitted fabric 22-24 ton/day (approximately)
Cost of the project is approximately in Taka250,00,00,000
7.00 acres
History of project development:
It is a moment of rejoice to introduce Micro Fiber Group (MFG) to its clientsand patrons. MFG believes whatever it has achieved; its credits should be directed toward itsclients.
Micro fibre group started their Textile business in 1998 by starting construction of the buildingfor project setup. At 1st they set up Garments project. In 1999 they went to production of fabricand dyeing with a dryer of 400 kg & 6 ton capacity boiler. As an ambition to expand the businessthey setup knitting section in 2000 & to fill the demand of knitting they setup as well as stenter,calendar, dewatering m/c, dryer for finishing. With the passage of time different type of m/cwere brought to the mill to improve the quality & production. The mill is well oriented for knitcomposite project.
Therefore, when many struggle to survive in post-MFA world; its business in fact enjoying ahealthy growth.
Moreover, having endless efforts to ensure internationally accepted employment practice, itsclients recognize us as a partner to protect their value system and images among final consumers.
Industrial Attachment Report 2011
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Different departments:i. Knitting section
ii. Dyeing section:
CircularFlat
Knit dyeingiii. Garments sectioniv. Costing & Financev. Logisticsvi. Maintenance
vii. Planning sectionviii. QC section
Product mix:
Types of raw materials processed here are-
i. cotton- 100% combed or cardedii. polyester-cotton blend (p/c or t/c), (65%pet+35% cotton)
iii. CVC (60% cotton+40% polyester)iv. grey melange (85% cotton+15% viscose)v. Ecru melange (98% cotton+2% viscose or 99% cotton+1% viscose)
Industrial Attachment Report 2011
S
E WLAYOUT DESIGN
N
ETP
Midland Knitting
&
Garments
Midlan
Maintenance
Department
MidlandFinishing
Laboratory
Office Liberty
Garments
Midlandfinishing
Midland
Dyeing
Micro
Dyeing
Micro
Finishing
Office
Office Utilities
Canteen
StoreEntrance
Midland
Dyeing
Office
Midland
Printing
Room
Utilities
Room Dyes &
Chemicals
Car parking
Health
facilities
Room
Prayer
Security
Room
Office
4 | P a
Industrial Attachment Report 2011
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Layout plan of printing section:In the printing section of Micro fibre ltd there are 2 floors. In ground floor there are 3Allover printing m/c and
Store
Keeper
E
MKT
Office
AGM
Office
StoreW
N S
C
E
C
Sample
Table
Ink
Jet m/c
1
1. Computer2. Expose m/c3. Retouching
table2 C. ComputerE. Entrance
T. Toilet
3
T
Fig: 2nd Floor of printing section
Industrial Attachment Report 2011
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N
E Screen washingzone
W
S
AlloverPrinting
m/c # 3
AlloverPrinting
m/c # 2
AlloverPrinting E
m/c # 1
E
Fig: Production Floor Printing Section
Remark:Micro Fiber Group is a well established knit composite
industry. The industry stands on industrial area of Ramarbagh, Narayangonj. It is aGroup of Companies, . It is going to prove its own standard of product quality inworld market as they know that their reputation depends on quality. It is a profitableproject and contributes the economy of our country.
Industrial Attachment Report 2011
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Physical Infrastructure:
MICRO FIBREGROUP
Knitting
Dyeing Garment Admin Maintenance
Knit(admin)
Knit(prod)
Cost &finance
Accounts
Knitdyeing
Prod
QC
Gmt(Admin)
Gmt(Prod)
ElectricDept
Mechanical Dept
Utility Cleaning
Industrial Attachment Report 2011
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CHAPTER -2MANPOWER MANAGEMENT
Organ gram of man-power administration
MANAGING DIRECTOR
EXECUTIVE DIRECTOR
GENERAL MANAGER ASST.
GENERAL MANAGER
ASSISTANT PRODUCTION MANAGER MANAGER (LAB & QC)
SENIOR PRODUCTION OFFICER OFFICER
PRODUCTION OFFICER SENIOR OFFICER
ASSISTANT PRODUCTION OFFICER SENIOR LABASSISTANT
SENIOR SUPERVISOR LAB ASSISTANT
SUPERVISOR LAB BOY
ASSISTANT SUPERVISOR
SENIOR OPERATOR
OPERATOR
ASSISTANT OPERATOR
HELPER
Management system:
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In Micro Fiber Group the management system is regular. employees arewell skilled and are graduate in their respective profession.
Shift change:
The industry has two shift .Duration of every shift is 12 hours. Workers getone hour break time. Shift change depends on the work order and production. There isa supervisor in every shift who takes the working activities & understands hisresponsibilities from previous supervisor during shift change.
Total Section Wise Man power Management system:
Micro Fibre Group has sufficient number of skilled manpower working in differentsections. A picture of manpower distribution with total manpower is given below:
DEPARTMENT MANPOWER
Knitting 445
Dyeing 560
Printing 138
Finishing 315
Garments 3587
Maintenance 40
Administration 23
Utility 20
Security 28
Total 5136
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Responsibilities of S.P.O/P.O:
The main job as well as main responsibility of a s.p.o is to control process.The responsibility of a s.p.o/p.o is to complete a batch in required time. Any fault ordisturbance happens in a batch, the blame goes to s.p.o/p.o. The p.o should try tominimize overhead expenditures and also try to make a batch more profitable. In aword he is in charge of the floor & his responsibility is to keep moving the productionsmoothly.
Job description of S.P.O/P.O
stes to
1. To give program slip according to daily production plan.2. To follow up production process from raw materials to finished goods.3. To match shade in connection with fabric quality according to buyer
requirements.4. To find out fabric faults as early as possible (before finishing), & take
recover it.5. To rectify the finished fabric rejected from quality control department.6. To coordinate with unit technical manager for achieving the target
production.7. To motivate supervisors and workers for achieving maximum production
with
them
minimum faults.8. To check the daily production report.9. To study dye & chemicals nature delivery by the manufacturer & apply
Correctly to the production to get best product.
Remarks
The manpower management system in Micro Fiber Group is wellarranged. There are good number of textile engineers in the industry. but they are notadequate enough to undertake the huge production of the industry. Some more areexpected to be enrolled there in the shortest possible time to meet up the growingneed. The efficiency of the worker should be increased for more quality production.
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CHAPTER-3MACHINE DESCRIPTION
List of Single Jersey Circular knitting Machineries :
SerialNo
Machine BrandName
M/CType
M/CDia
M/CGauge
M/CFeeder
Origin
01 Jiunn Long S/J 22 24 66 F Taiwan
02 Jiunn Long S/J 22 24 66 F Taiwan
03 Jiunn Long S/J 23 24 69 F Taiwan
04 Jiunn Long S/J 23 24 69 F Taiwan
05 Jiunn Long S/J 24 24 72 F Taiwan
06 Jiunn Long S/J 24 24 72 F Taiwan
07 Jiunn Long S/J 25 24 75 F Taiwan
08 Jiunn Long S/J 25 24 75 F Taiwan
09 Jiunn Long S/J 25 24 75 F Taiwan
10 Jiunn Long S/J 25 24 75 F Taiwan
11 Jiunn Long S/J 26 24 78 F Taiwan
12 Jiunn Long S/J 26 24 78 F Taiwan
13 Jiunn Long S/J 26 24 78 F Taiwan
14 Jiunn Long S/J 26 24 78 F Taiwan
15 Jiunn Long S/J 28 24 84 F Taiwan
16 Jiunn Long S/J 28 24 84 F Taiwan
17 Jiunn Long S/J 32 24 96 F Taiwan
18 Jiunn Long S/J 34 24 102 F Taiwan
19 Jiunn Long S/J 36 24 108 F Taiwan
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20 Jiunn Long S/J 34 24 102 F Taiwan
21 Jiunn Long S/J 40 24 120 F Taiwan
22 Jiunn Long S/J 38 24 114 F Taiwan
List of Single Jersey Circular knitting Machineries :
SerialNo
Machine BrandName
M/CType
M/CDia
M/CGauge
M/CFeeder
Origin
23 Jiunn Long S/J 36 24 108 F Taiwan
24 Jiunn Long S/J 23 24 69 F Taiwan
25 Jiunn Long S/J 24 24 72 F Taiwan
26 Jiunn Long S/J 21 24 63 F Taiwan
27 Jiunn Long S/J 20 24 60 F Taiwan
28 Jiunn Long S/J 32 24 96 F Taiwan
29 Jiunn Long S/J 30 24 90 F Taiwan
30 Jiunn Long S/J 28 24 84 F Taiwan
31 Jiunn Long S/J 30 24 90 F Taiwan
32 Jiunn Long S/J 36 24 108 F Taiwan
33 Jiunn Long S/J 30 20 90 F Taiwan
34 Jiunn Long S/J 30 20 90 F Taiwan
35 Jiunn Long S/J 30 20 90 F Taiwan
36 Jiunn Long S/J 30 20 90 F Taiwan
37 Jiunn Long S/J 30 24 90 F Taiwan
38 Jiunn Long S/J 40 24 120 F Taiwan
39 Jiunn Long S/J 30 20 90 F Taiwan
40 Jiunn Long S/J 30 20 90 F Taiwan
41 Jiunn Long S/J 36 24 108 F Taiwan
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42 Jiunn Long S/J 30 20 90 F Taiwan
43 Jiunn Long S/J 30 20 90 F Taiwan
44 Jiunn Long S/J 30 20 90 F Taiwan
45 Jiunn Long S/J 36 24 108 F Taiwan
46 Fukuhama S/J 30 24 90 F Taiwan
47 Fukuhama S/J 31 22 72 F Taiwan
List of Double Jersey Circular knitting Machineries :
SerialNo
Machine BrandName
Fabrictype
M/CType
M/CDia
M/CGaug
e
M/CFeeder
Origin
01 Falmac Interlock
D/J 24 16 38 F Singapore
02 Falmac Rib D/J 34 16 54 F Singapore
03 Falmac Rib D/J 30 16 48 F Singapore
04 Falmac Rib D/J 30 16 48 F Singapore
05 Hubter Rib D/J 38 18 80 F Taiwan
06 Hubter Rib D/J 40 18 84 F Taiwan
07 Hubter Rib D/J 20 16 32 F Taiwan
08 Hubter Rib D/J 30 16 48 F Taiwan
09 Fukahama Interlock
D/J 36 18 72 F Taiwan
10 Fukahama Interlock
D/J 36 18 72 F Taiwan
11 Fukahama Rib D/J 36 18 72 F Taiwan
12 Fukahama Rib D/J 34 18 72 F Taiwan
13 Fukahama Rib D/J 34 18 102 F Taiwan
14 Fukahama Interlock
D/J 28 20 84 F Taiwan
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List of Auto Stripe Circular knitting Machineries :
SerialNo
Machine BrandName
M/CType
M/CDia
M/CGauge
M/CFeeder
Origin
01 Fukuhara S/J 30 24 48 Japan
02 Fukuhara S/J 30 24 48 Japan
03 Fukuhara S/J 34 24 48 Japan
04 Fukuhara S/J 34 24 48 Japan
05 Fukuhara Rib/Interlock
36 18 48 Japan
List of Flat Bed knitting Machineries :
SerialNo
MachineName
M/C Type M/CBed
Length
M/CGauge
M/CCares
Origin
01 AroundStar
Computerized Flat BedM/C
40 14 SingleCares
Taiwan
02 AroundStar
Computerized Flat BedM/C
40 14 SingleCares
Taiwan
03 AroundStar
Computerized Flat BedM/C
40 14 SingleCares
Taiwan
04 AroundStar
Computerized Flat BedM/C
40 14 SingleCares
Taiwan
05 AroundStar
Computerized Flat BedM/C
40 14 SingleCares
Taiwan
06 AroundStar
Computerized Flat BedM/C
40 14 SingleCares
Taiwan
07 AroundStar
Computerized Flat BedM/C
86 14 SingleCares
Taiwan
08 AroundStar
Computerized Flat BedM/C
68 14 DoubleCares
Taiwan
09 AroundStar
Computerized Flat BedM/C
68 14 DoubleCares
Taiwan
10 AroundStar
Computerized Flat BedM/C
68 14 DoubleCares
Taiwan
11 AroundStar
Computerized Flat BedM/C
68 14 DoubleCares
Taiwan
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12 AroundStar
Computerized Flat BedM/C
68 14 DoubleCares
Taiwan
13 AroundStar
Computerized Flat BedM/C
68 14 DoubleCares
Taiwan
14 AroundStar
Computerized Flat BedM/C
68 14 DoubleCares
Taiwan
15 AroundStar
Computerized Flat BedM/C
68 14 DoubleCares
Taiwan
16 AroundStar
Computerized Flat BedM/C
68 14 DoubleCares
Taiwan
17 AroundStar
Computerized Flat BedM/C
68 14 DoubleCares
Taiwan
List of Cloth Inspection Machineries :
SerialNo
Machine Name Nos Brand Origin
01 Grey Fabric Inspection Machine 02 Sets UZU® Thailand
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Machine Picture
SINGLE JERSEY CIRCULER KNITTING MACHINE
JIUNN LONG MACHINE CO. LTD.
TAIWAN.
Specification:
Model: JLS Cyl. Dia: 30"Feeders: 90 F Gauge: 24 GNeedles: 2256 T
SINGLE JERSEY CIRCULER KNITTING MACHINE
JIUNN LONG MACHINE CO. LTD.
TAIWAN.
Specification:
Model: JLS Cyl. Dia: 30"Feeders: 90 F Gauge: 24 GNeedles: 2256 T
SINGLE JERSEY CIRCULER KNITTING MACHINE
FUKAHAMA MACHINERY CO. LTD.
YUANHSIEN, TAIWAN.
Specification:
Model: SH-JFA3 Cyl. Dia: 34"
Feeders: 102 F Gauge: 24 G
Mfg. Date: Sep. 2010
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FUKUHARA STRIPER MACHING
PRECISION FUKUHARA WORKS,LTD.
JAPAN.
Specification:
Gauge: 20/24 Feeders: 192 F
Size: 34"
Mfg. Date: March.2007
COMPUTERIZED FLAT KNITTING
MACHINE
AROUND STAR INTERNATIONAL CO. LTD.
TAIWAN.
Specification:
Bed Length: 40"
Gauge: 14 G
UZU® FABRIC INSPECTION MACHINE
AATPR INDUSTRY CO. LTD.
THAILAND.
Mfg. Date: April-2007
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F
Lay-out Plan of knitting Machineries :
K
S
E W
DN
H
I
A MC
B
J
E
G
L
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A = Office of A.G.M (Knitting)
B = Office of Production Officer
C = Cloth inspection machine
D = Re-conning machine
E = Supervisor office & Knit Admin
F = Flat bed knitting section
G = Spare Cylinder room
H = Stair
I = Lift
J = Store of Spare parts & equipments
K = Fitter / Staff office
L = Toilet
M = Auto stripe Machine Section
= Circular Knitting Machine (Single & Double Jersey)
= Eyes marking or Floor marking
Total Floor space of the knitting floor = 20,338.93 Sq.ft (approximately)
Space of A.G.M. Office = 172.85Sq.ft
Space of P.O Office = 175Sq.ft
Space of Knit admin office = 96.15Sq.ft
Staff office space = 175Sq.ft
Stair space = 472.5Sq.ft
Lift space = 157.5Sq.ft
Space of Re-conning M/c = 52.5Sq.ft
Cloth inspection M/c = 78.72 Sq.ft ×2 = 157.44Sq.ft
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Space of equipments office = 228Sq.ft
Space of Spare Cylinder room = 383.8Sq.ft
Space of Toilet = 547.1Sq.ft
Space of Flat Bed Knitting Section = 1372.61Sq.ft
Space of Auto Stripe Knitting M/c Section = 1478.73Sq.ft
Total space used for different section = 5512.74Sq.ft
Now ,Rest of the free space for circular knitting machine according with floormarking,
= Total Floor space of the knitting floor - Total space used for different section
= (20,338.93 - 5512.74) Sq.ft
=14862.19 Sq.ft
In Micro Fibre Group the total number of knitting machine is 83 ( where Singlejersey circular knitting machine is 47, Double jersey circular knitting machine is 14,Auto Stripe circular knitting machine is 5, And Flat Bed knitting machine is 17, total83). But there has another knitting floor where other knitting machines are positioned.
The space of 14862.19 Sq.ft for Circular knitting machines which are assembles inprevious page.And in this lay out plan 40 No’s of Circular knitting machine aresituated.
One circular knitting machine with creel stand which required 262.44 sq.ft So, thenumber of 40 knitting machines required space is, = 262.44 sq.ft × 40 = 10497.6 Sq.ft
The totally free space is = 14862.19 Sq.ft - 10497.6 Sq.ft = 4364.59 Sq. ft
Remarks :
The Lay out plan of the machineries is well Micro Fiber Ltd. arranged.There are good number of textile machineries in the industry. They are adequate
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enough to take the huge production of the industry. The efficiency of the workershould be increased for more quality production.
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CHAPTER -04RAW MATERIALS
Micro Fiber Ltd. is a knit composite industry. In the industry raw materialsfor different section is different. As for example knitting uses yarn as raw material,Fabric processing department uses the knit fabrics, dyes and chemicals.
Types of Raw Materials:Different type of raw materials are found like
1. Yarn2. Grey Fabric3. Dyes4. Chemicals
Order is usually obtain in the form of making complete garments grey fabric or yarndyeing that is main raw material is fabric & yarn. Fabric is made in its own knittingsection from different types of yarn according to requirement, but sometimes buyermay supplies this.
18/1,
150/D.
Yarn:Following types of yarns are used to knit fabrics:
1. Cotton — 30 s/1, 80/2, 20/1, 60/2,34s/l, 26/1, 20/1,
24/1 (Carded or combed.)2. Filament —20/D, 24/D, 30/D, 40/D,75/D, 100/D,
3. Polyester spun — 50/2 Ne, 20/2 Ne.4. T/C —+30/1, T/C.5. Viscose —26/1.6. CVC (varying proportion)
The count mentioned above was found during mill training.
Sources:Yarn is collected from the fo1lowing sources:
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1. Shohagpur spinning mills2. Delta spinning3. Israk spinning mills4. Delsy spinning mills5. Techno spinning mills6. Jamuna spinning mills7. Malek spinning mills8. Kader spinning mills
Price:Not provided.
Grey Fabrics:Following types of grey fabrics are dyed:
1.Single jersey:- Single and double lacoste- Polo pique- Terry fleece- Engineering stripe
2. Single jersey with Lycra3. Double jersey:
- Rib- Interlock
4. Double jersey with Lycra
5. Flat bed :-Single Collar and Cuff-Design Collar and cuff
Sources:
The required grey fabric is produce in the industry. The required fabrics aresupplied from Micro Fiber Ltd.
Price:Price of grey fabrics depends upon the price of yarn and the
making charge of the fabric. For example, in case of 30’s spun cotton yarn, the priceof yarn is $3/kg and for single jersey fabric the knitting charge is $0.18. So the priceof single jersey fabric is $3.18/kg.
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Chemicals:
CHEMICALNAME
TRADE NAME CHEMICALNAME
TRADE NAME
Opticalbrightening
Bluton –BVB Anticreasing agent ACN
Wetting agent SCF Leveling agent CL-225
Fixing agent SR Softener FS
Peroxide killer OEM Antifoaming agent SF
Leveling agent RLF-349 Anticreasing agent CBA
Sequestering agent SQ-117 Antifixing agent TPA
Softener WCS Softener EAS
Sequestering agent 2UD Soap AW-501
Alkali RH Sequestering agent SQ-114
Acetic acid G.acid Brightening agent SQS
Silicon PE-40 Wetting agent MC
Opticalbrightening
ER330 Enzyme MKL
Flame retardant WRN Opticalbrightening
BBU
Dust remover Flock BM Sequestering agent InSA
Fixing agent SR Opticalbrightening
BUBZAM
Commonly used dyes in fabric dyeing section in Micro fibre Ltd
For light color: RR dyes
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i. Yellow RR
ii. Red RR
iii. Blue RR
If color shade% not matching under three different light source (D-65, TL-83,A), thenbelow dyestuffs are used:
DRI dyes:
i. DRI yellow HFR
ii. DRI Red HF3B
iii. DRI Blue HFRL
For medium shade: ME dyes (Navy blue, olive etci. G.yellow SP-3R
ii. RED SP3B
iii. N.BLUE ME2G
iv. BLUE RSPL
v. BLACK B
vi. BLUE BBNEW and so on.
RED:i. W-dyes
ii. Orange W-3R
iii. Red KHW
iv. DK Blue WR
v. Yellow KHW
Black:i. Super black G
ii. Black WNN
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Turqious :i. Yellow 4GL
ii. Blue BBNEW /N.Blue 2GL
iii. Blue G
Chemicals & their function:
Chemicals used in Dyeing and their function:♦ Acid - The chemical compounds that dissolve in water and provide H+(proton). It
changes the color of litmas paper from blue to red. Strong acids - completelyionized in water; For example: HClO4, Hl, HBr, HCl, HNOs, H2SO4, H3PO4.Weakacids - partial ionized in water; For example: HF, H2S, HCN, HC2H3O2 and mostorganic acids.
♦ Alkalis - The chemicaL compound that dissolve in water and provide 0H- . Itchanges the color of litmas paper from red to blue. Strong alkalis - completelyionized in water; For example: NaOH, KOH, LiOH, Mg(OH)2 most metallichydroxides Weak alkalis - partial ionized in water; For example: NH4OH andmost organic alkalis
♦ Buffer - lt is a saturated solution of acid-salt or alkali-salt mixture. lt resists thechange of pH on addition of acid or alkali. Usually it is used to control the anybath solution. Buffer solutions are solutions containing mixtures of a weak acid orbase and a salt of that acid or base. For exampre, the mixture of acetic acid andsodium acetate, which dissociates as:
CH3COOH CH3COO - + H+
CH3COONa CHs COO - + Na+
♦ Oxidizing agent - The chemical compound which provide oxygen duringchemical reaction and converting to oxide, They gain electrons in a redoxchemical reaction, for example, O3, H2O2, Ca0Cl2.
♦ Reducing agent - The chemical compound which losses electron during chemicalreaction. lt reduces other substances chemically, especially by donating anelectron or electrons, for example, Hydrose (Na2S2O4), Rongalite C.
♦ Surfactants - Surfactants or surface-active agents act in solid-liquid, solid-gas, orliquid-gas interfaces and reduces the interfacial tension. ln textile wet processing itworks in between solid-liquid interface and reduce the surface tension of liquid. lthas a versatile application in textile industries especially in textile coloration, forexample, Wetting agent, Detergent, Lubricant, Foaming agent, Anti-foamingagent, Leveling agent, Dispersing agent.
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♦ Wetting agent - lt accelerates the wetability of material in solution; thus helps toeasy penetration of chemicals into substrate. Usually it is used in scouring,bleaching and dyeing processes. lt is available in market in form of clear oryellowish liquid.
♦ Detergent - Detergents are one kind of surface active agents but the reverse is notalways true. The surfactants which have detergency power and the number ofcarbon in aliphatic chain are not less than 9. Usually it is used in textile to cleanthe materials by removing undesirable substances. These products are either soapsor synthetic detergents.
♦
♦ Lubricant - The chemical compounds use to prevent contact between solidsurfaces in relative motion in order to reduce friction, wear, overheating, andrusting. They are very good coolants, provide the appropriate range of viscosities,and are thermally stable.
♦ Anti-foaming agent - Anti-foaming agents are another type of surfactants whichare able to prevent or reduce foam. Usually, anti-foaming agents are used indyeing bath and in printing paste to hinder foam generation. Excess foamgeneration can create adverse effect in processing and product.
♦ Anti-creasing agent - Usually used in dyebath or in finishing stage to preventcreasing of fabric or garments.
♦ Anti-pilling agent - Some man-made and blended fibre fabrics can easily formpills in their surface. Thus it reduces the aesthetic value of the fabric or garment.Anti-pilling agents are used to prevent such kind of pills formation during wearingof cloth.
♦ Leveling agent - Leveling agent is used in textile coloration process to achieveuniform dyeing over the whole substrate by controlling the rate of dyeing.Generally it is a non-ionic surfactants type compound either fibre substantive ordye substantive. lt is available in market in liquid form.
♦ Dispersing agent - usually it is used in disperse and vat dyeing process helps todistribute the dye molecules in dye bath. it is also help to penetrate the dyemolecules into the substrate. lt is available in market in powder form.
♦ Retarding agent - The chemical compound that are able to retard or control thedye uptake inside of the fibre .Using retarders is very common in acrylic dyeing
♦ with cationic dyes.
♦ Carrier - Carriers are relatively small organic substances that usually haveaffinity for polyester. lt acts as a catalyst to accelerate the dye penetration into thefibe in disperse dyeing process.
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♦ Chemical formula of common chemicals used in textile dyeing:Water – H2OHydrochloric acid - HCISulfuric acid –H2SO4
Phosphoric acid – H3PO4
Sodium chloride (common salt) - NaClSodium carbonate – Na2CO3
Sodium sulfate (glauber salt) – Na2SO4
Sodium bicarbonate – NaHCO3
Sodium hydroxide - NaOHPotassium hydroxide - KOHSulfur dioxide – SO2
Tri sodium Phosphate – Na3PO4
Benzene – C6H6
Acetic acid - CH3COOHOxalic acid - (COOH)2
Cellulose – C6H10O5
Starch - C6H10O5
Hydros (sodium hydrosulfite) – Na2S2O4
Bleaching powder- Ca(OCl)Cl
Printing chemicals function:The functions of chemical used in printing process are given below
Urea: Hydroscoping agent, by using urea the steaming is finished within 5 to10hours.Resist salt: NaCl is penetrated by heating but resist salt is penetrated intofabric without heating.Na2CO3: Fixing the dyes molecules properly.Thickener: Thickener helps the past or chemical to be not sprayed on thefabric or not to be bleeding.
Increased paste viscosity.Reduce screen pore radius.
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Price:Price of dyes & chemicals depend on the quality, type availability &
requirement. For high quality product, better dye & chemical should be used thoughcost is high.
Annual requirement:Annual requirement of dyes & chemical depend on the order of production but for
various reasons such as improper weighting, carelessness of operators, hydrolysis ofdyes, uneven process control, wrong recipe formulation, incorrect batching, improperstorage facilities & for different unwanted expenditure increases dyes & chemicalsrequirement.
Remarks:For smooth running of a factory uninterrupted supply of raw materials is very
essential. As far as we saw the raw material control of MFG is good.
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Chapter-05Production planning, sequence & operation
Introduction and Basic Procedure of Planning andControl:
A planned work brings success. Without planning nothing is completed within therequired time. So planning has its own importance which is intolerable. "Planning"gives a scheduled task and 'control' completes it successfully. But production planningand control is not an easy task. So Micro Fibre Group has a high-performancedepartment called "Production Planning & Control". Its Basic working procedure is asfollows –
1. Taking orders from marketing division.2. Analyzing the orders.3. Planning for knitting the fabric.4. Planning for dyeing the fabric.5. Planning for finishing the fabric.
It is only a basic procedure. It may change according to the type of order.Sometimes, order is places only for finishing the material or only for dyeing the whitegoods. Then some steps are omitted for planning procedure.
Recommendable points of a buyer:
I. Diameter of the fabricII. Design of the fabric
III. GSM of the fabricIV. Total wt. of the fabricV. Yarn count
VI. Types of yarnVII. Color of the fabric
VIII. Finishing of fabric.IX. Handling & fastness property.
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Production Planning:
Marketing
Lab dip
Lab dip approval
Sample production
Sample approval & Order for bulk production
Knitting
Sample production according to buyer recommendation
Bulk knitting production
Batching Pre-
treatment
Dyeing
Finishing
Packing
Garment section
Ready for delivery
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Knitting section
Production parameters:
Yarn processing:Package Winding/ Re- conningPackage density,
Knitting:Stitch lengthGSMDiaGaugeCount
Fabric dyeing:pH,
TempM:L,Time,
Finishing:Overfeed,Underfeed,Stretch,Temp,Padding pressure.Speed,Dwell time
Points that should consider in case of G.S.M. changing:i) VDQ (Variable Dia. Quality Control) pulley diameter.ii) Yarn count.iii) M/C gauge.iv) Cam positionv) Take up motion
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Production flow chart:
Work order received
Design development
Requisition of raw material (yarn)
Yarn collect by cone package from spinning
Setup yarn on creel and Yarn passage through different tentioner and positive feeder
Machine parameter setup (Adjust stitch length and GSM by VDQ pulley)
Produce ½ meter fabric and inspection
Knitting the fabrics and without any fault / If fault correct it
Cut the roll of fabric from the machine and Marking the roll
Grey fabric inspection and grading according to Quality Control
Fabric delivery or Transferred the fabric to grey store
Description of production process:
Micro Fiber Ltd. Is capable of producing stripes of any width and enormouscolor. The engineering stripes machines are used for producing such fabrics. Exceptthis feeder stripes are also produced. Single jersey fabrics and its derivatives likelacost, polo pique, terry fleece etc. are also produced. Rib and interlock fabrics and itsderivatives such as 2x2, 3x3 etc. are also produced. Different fabrics can be producedby jacquard m/c by varying the tucking lengths and looping sequence.
Collar and cuffs of any designs are produced here in the flat bed m/cs. The jacquarddesign can be computerized and transferred to the knitting m/c by floppy disks. Theyarn that used in the body fabric is also used in producing collar and cuff.
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GSM:It is the critical parameter that is checked and controlled at different staged of
processing the fabric after knitting to finishing. Fabric GSM can be controlled by thefollowing ways:
By varying the loop length by VDQ pulley.
By varying the no. of loops by needle gauge setting.
By using different count of yarn.
The yarn count, in all cases, has prescribed by the buyers. So m/c setting is theonly way to control the grey GSM. The final GSM in the finished fabric depend onthe finishing treatments and parameters of finishing machineries.
m/c.
Fabric width:Fabric width can be controlled by changing cylinder diameter or by changing
RPM:M/c rpm is adjusted with the lead time for production. When lead time is very
short then rpm may increase at a certain level for definite count and strength of yarn.So it also depends on the yarn parameter and also with structure to be produced.
Loop length:Loop length determines the fabric GSM. It can be controlled by changing the dia
of VDQ pulley In Mayer & CIE m/c , it can be controlled digitally.
No. of feeder or no. of cone:It depends on the urgency of production, available cone packages, color to be knit
and structure of the fabric.
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Gauge:Needle gauge determines the no. of loops in a course which determines the GSM
of fabric.
Production calculation:1. Production = no. of needle x no of feeder x RPM x stitch length/ yarn count
Production per shift in KG at 100% efficiency
RPM x no of feeder x no of needle x stitch length(mm) x 60 x 12=
10 x 2.54 x 36 x 840 x 2.2046 x yarn count
2. Stitch length =Ks X 590.5
Count (Ne) x GSM
Where,
Ks = knitting constant
Count = linear density of yarn
GSM = gm per square meter
Another formulae is
Stitch length = (Tex × Ks) / GSM
Ks is a constant. Its value is different for different fabric structure and fabric type. Ksis calculated and estimated as below:
Ks = (GSM x Stitch length) / Tex
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Fabric type Color Value of Ks
Single jersey Average 19.55
Single lacoste Average 22.4
Double lacoste Average 22.75
Polo pique Average 25
Plain interlock Average 39.3
1 X 1 rib Light 24.5
1 X 1 rib Average 26.5
3. Production/shift in meter:
= Course/ min.Course/ cm
=RPM ×No.of Feeder× 60×12×Efficiency
Course/ cm×100
4. Fabric width in meter:
=Total no.of walesWales / cm ×100
=Total no.of Needles knitting
Wales / cm ×100
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Fabrictype
Yarncount
Stitchlength
color D X G Finisheddia
FinishedGSM
Plain s/j 18s/1 2.94 white 26X24 30 inch 220-230
20s/1 2.98 white 30X24 33.5 inch 200-21024 s/1 2.68 white 30X24 32 inch 175-18526s/1 2.66 white 30X24 31 inch 160-17028s/1 2.70 avg 26X24 25 inch 150-16030s/1 2.68 avg 30X24 30 inch 130-14034s/1 2.40 avg 26X24 24 inch 125-13540s/1 2.44 avg 24X24 20 inch 100-110
1x1 Rib 26s/1 2.50 avg 40X18 41 inch 24024s/1 2.75 avg 30X18 64 inch 23526s/1 2.45 avg 40X18 40inch 24526s/1 2.55 avg 40X18 47inch 23526s/1 2.65 avg 32X18 32inch 23036s/1 2.65 avg 32X18 33inch 17024s/1 2.95 avg 34X18 32inch 22024s/1 2.90 avg 40X18 38inch 22528s/1 2.40 avg 30X24 38.5inch 232
2X1 L Rib 34s/1 2.60 avg 40X18 23inch 19034s/1 2.70 avg 32X18 20inch 18540s/1 2.76 avg 30X20 35”T 16028s/1 2.87 avg 34X18 32”T 26026s/1 3.25 avg 34X18 31”T 20524s/1 3.50 avg 34X18 31.5”T 28520s/1 3.25 avg 34X20 55”(op) 260
2X2 L/Rib 20/1+40D 3.10 avg 30X18 18”T 39024/1+40D 2.90 avg 30X18 18”T 32030/1+70D 2.90 avg 30X18 18”T 32030/1+40D 2.98 avg 26X18 18”T 24030/1+40D 2.80 avg 26X18 18”T 240
Singlelacost
18s/1 3.00 avg 30X24 46 inch 245-255
24s/1 2.64 avg 30X24 40 inch 210-21526s/1 2.60 avg 30X24 36inch 200-21030s/1 2.50 avg 30X24 33inch 180-190
37 | P a g e
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For S/J without'Lycra
Fabric G.S.M Yarn Count
110-120 40 -36s
120-130 36s-32s
130-140 32s-28s
140-150 28s
150-160 26s
170-210 24s
For Rib without Lycra:
Fabric G.S.M Yarn Count
180-190 36s-32s
190-200 30s
200-210 28s
210-220 26s
220-250 24s
250-300 24s
Following Counts are used to achieve the mentioned G.S.M:
For S/J with Lycra
Fabric G.S.M Yarn Count180-190 34s
190-210 32s210-220 30s220-240 28s
240-250 26s
For interlock without Lycra
Fabric G.S.M Yarn Count200-220 34s
220-230 32s230-250 30s
250-300 26s
For Lacoste without Lycra
Fabric G.S.M Yarn Count
180-190 30s
190-210 28s
210-230 26s
230-250 26s
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Relation between yarn count, fabric type, stitch length andfinished GSM:
By the following three tables, we can summarize the above data:
For Single jersey-
FINISHED GSM COUNT FINISHED DIA
140 30/1 Machine dia=Finished dia
160 26/1 Machine dia+1=Finisheddia
180 24/1 Machine dia+2=Finisheddia
200 20/1 Machine dia+3=Finisheddia
220 18/1 Machine dia+5=Finisheddia
For 1X1 Rib
Finished gsm Count Gauge Finished dia150-200 30/1 18 Machine dia
210-220 28/1 18 Machine dia
220-230 26/1 18 Machine dia+1
240-250 24/1 18 Machine dia+1/2
280-300 20/1 18 Machine dia+2/3
For Plain Interlock-
Finished gsm Count Gauge Finished dia
200 40/1 24 Machine dia
180 40/1 24 Machine dia+1
220-230 34/1 24 Machine dia+2
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× × × ×
× • × •
× × × ×
• × • ×
× × × ×
240-250 30/1 24 Machine dia+2/3
If the fabric is to be Enzyme washed, the stitch length should be kept (10%) less thanthe normal range. Because, enzyme wash reduces the total weight of the fabric byremoving the floating fibre and hairy fibre.
For light color, the finished GSM varies near about 15-20% from grey GSMFor average color, the finished GSM varies 20-25%For dark color, grey GSM is kept less (i.e. the stitch-length is large) because take up%of dark color is more and the weight of dyed fabric will be increased.
If the GSM varies 25-30%, it is not only necessary to control the VDQ pulley dia butalso yarn tension & take up roller.
Grey fabric introducing:Factors that should be considered for changing of fabric design on:
i) Cam arrangement changing.ii) Needle butt setting & needle dropping.iii) Using of different colors in selected feeder.iv) Using of jacquard mechanism.v) Size of the loop shape
Stitch Notation, Cam Arrangement & Needle Repeat Of Some Knitted Fabric:
FABRIC NAME: SINGLE LACOST
Stitch Notation:
× = Knit stitch
• = Tuck stitch
K = Knit cam
T = Tuck cam
1 = 1 Butt Needle
2 = 2 Butt Needle
3 = 3 Butt Needle
Fig. Looping diagram
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1
2
1
2
3
× × × ×
× • × •
× • × •
× × × ×
• × • ×
• × • ×
1
2
Cam arrangement & Needle arrangement:i) Using two track cams:
▲ ▲ ▲ T ▲
▲ T ▲ ▲ ▲
ii) Using three truck cams:
▲ ▲ ▲ T ▲
▲ T ▲ ▲ ▲
▲ ▲ ▲ T ▲
FABRIC NAME: DOUBLE LACOST
Stitch Notation:
× = Knit stitch
• = Tuck stitch
K = Knit cam
T = Tuck cam
1 = 1 Butt Needle
2 = 2 Butt Needle
3 = 3 Butt Needle
Fig. Looping diagram
Cam arrangement & Needle arrangement:i) Using two track cams:
▲ ▲ ▲ ▲ T T
▲ T T ▲ ▲ ▲
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1
2
3
× × × ×
× × × ×
× × × ×
× × × ×
× × × ×
1
2
ii) Using three truck cams:
▲ ▲ ▲ ▲ T T
▲ T T ▲ ▲ ▲
▲ ▲ ▲ ▲ T T
Fig.- Cam arrangement Fig.- Needle arrangement
FABRIC NAME: SINGLE JERSEY
Stitch Notation:
× = Knit stitch
K = Knit cam
1 = 1 Butt Needle
2 = 2 Butt Needle
3 = 3 Butt Needle
Fig. Looping diagram
Cam arrangement & Needle arrangement:i) Using two track cams:
▲ ▲ ▲ ▲ ▲
▲ ▲ ▲ ▲ ▲
Fig.- Cam arrangement
Fabric inspection :
Two ways of grey fabric inspection used to done by-
a) Auto turning fabric inspection m/c.b) Varivide colour assessment cabinet –2D-65, TL-84, TL-83, Florescent, UV.
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♦ Grey fabric faults :
Following faults are found in the grey fabric:
Problem Reason Remedy
1. Hole Broken needle head Change the needle
2. Missing yarn Missing of one end of doubleyarn
Careful observation and instantstop when fault found
3. Needle line Bent needle latch Replace the needle
4. Thick & thinyarn
Yarn fault Replace the yarn cone to amore uniform yarn cone
5. Slubs Yarn fault Replace the yarn cone to amore uniform yarn cone
6. Drop needle Needle fail to receive the yarnwhile knitting, needle missing
Reset the needle
7. Barriemark/patta
Irregular tension of take downroller
Adjust the take down tension orsynchronize the take downspeed with knitting
8. Pin hole Due to missing stiches or loop Concentrate on needle andlatch
9. Oil line Improper lubrication Proper lubrication
10. Fly contact Fly coming fro the adjacent m/c Separate one m/c from others
11. Oil stain Dirty m/c and improper handlingof fabric
Proper lubrication and cleanm/c
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Fabric Dyeing Section:
Production flow chart for fabric:
Grey fabric inspection
Batching
Pretreatment
Dyeing
Dewatering
Dewatering (Tube form) Dewatering(Open form)
Tension less dryer Slitting
Calendaring Stentering
Compacting Inspection
Inspection Packing
Packing Delivery
Delivery
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Process sequence:
For Cotton Dyeing:
Pretreatment
Enzyme (anti pilling)
Dyeing
Soaping
Softening
Pretreatment:Two types of pretreatment are done in Micro Fibre Ltd.
1. Scouring-Bleaching2. Bio-Scouring (Bio polishing/ Enzyme treatment)
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Scouring-Bleaching:
Pretreatment program: (scouring ,bleaching and enzyme)
Fill water
Fabric load
Light color: M:L=1:10
SCF (0.25g/l)+2UD (0.25g/l)ACN+CBA (0.25+0.25g/l) ( Dosing 10mins)
Temp=60oc and run=20min
Drain
Fill water
SCF+InSA(0.65+0.65g/l) +ACN+CBA (1.25+1.25g/l) (Dosing 10mins at room temp)
Caustic Dosing at 40oc (1.8g/l)
Temp 70oc
Peroxide +stab (1.75+0.22g/l)
Temp=98oc and Run=50-60mins
Cooling at 80oc
Drain
Fill water
Drain
Raise temp. 80oc and run 10 mins
OEM ( 0.3 g/l) dosing 20 minutes
Green acid( 0.5 g/l)
Hot wash (95oc X 10mins) Fill water
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Medium/deep color: M:L=1:8
Fill water
Fabric load
SCF (0.17g/l)ACN+CBA (0.425+0.425g/l) ( Dosing 10mins)
Temp=60oc and run=20min
Drain
Fill water
SCF+InSA(0.552+0.637g/l) +ACN+CBA (0.637+0.637g/l) (Dosing 10mins at roomtemp)
Caustic Dosing at 40oc (1.70g/l)
Temp 70oc
Peroxide +stab (1.70+0.212g/l)
Temp=98oc and Run=50-60mins
Cooling at 80oc
Drain
Fill water
Hot wash (95oc X 10mins)
Fill water
Drain
Raise temp. 80oc and run 10 mins
G. acid(0.697g/l) OEM ( 0.3 g/l) dosing 20 minutes
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Bio-Scouring:Process description of Bio-Scouring is same as normal pretreatment process. But
in Bio-Scouring process, we use only one auxiliary (MA-stab XLC), where in normalpretreatment process ,we use more than one auxiliary.
Enzyme Treatment:
Process Description of ENZYME TREATMENT:
Light color: M:L=1:10 Or, Medium/deep color: M:L=1:8
Water fill
Green acid (0.4g/l)(Check PH)
MKL (0.3% owf)
Temp 55oc and Run 60mins
Drain
Ready for dyeing
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Chemica10
Enzyme
60
Tem
Time
Fig: Enzyme Treatment
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Dyeing:Normaly for knit dyeing, there are many kinds of dyeing procedure such as Isothermal process, Critical migration process, Exhaust method etc. In Micro Fibre theyuse Exhaust method for knit dyeing.
Dying program for ME dyes:
M:L=1:8Leveling Agents: SQ-117 =1.275 g/l CL-
225 =1.275 g/lCAN+CBA =0.85+0.85 g/lpH =6.2-6.8
Run-10΄
Dyes-25΄(30% Dosing rate)Run-30΄
Salt -15΄(20% Dosing rate)Run-20΄
Soda-25΄(20% Dosing rate)Run-20΄
Temp=60°C(2°C/min)Then temp=70°C(2°C/min) if required
Run-20΄Sample check
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Dyeing program for HE Dyes:
LevelingRun-5΄
Temp- 60°C
Dyes-25΄ (30% Dosing Rate)
Run-20΄
Salt-20΄ (40% Dosing Rate)
Run-15΄
Temp=90oC
Cooling at 40°C
Soda-30΄ (40% Dosing Rate)Run-30΄
Temp- 80°-87°C (2C/min)RUN=2Omin
Sample check
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Dying program for W Dyes:
LevelingRun-10΄
Temp = 60°C
Dyes-15΄ (50% Dosing rate)
Run-10΄Salt-15΄ (40% Dosing rate)
Run-10΄
Temp-67°C (1C/min)Run-35΄
Cooling at 60°C (1C/min)
Soda-30΄ (50% Dosing rate)Run-20΄
Sample Check
In need increase temp up to 65°C-67°C
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Dying program for Turquise Dyes:
Leveling (5min Dosing time)Run-10΄
Temp-60°C
Dyes-25΄ (25% Dosing rate)Run-20΄
G.Salt-20΄ (20% Dosing rate)Run-15΄
Temp-90°C (1C/min)Run-45΄
Cooling at 40°C
Soda-40΄ (40% Dosing rate)Run-45΄
Temp-80°C (2C/min)Run-20΄
Sample Check
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Dying program for KHW Dyes:
Leveling (dosing 5min)Run-10΄
Temp-60°C
Dyes-20΄ (20% Dosing rate)Run-25΄
Common Salt-20΄ (40% Dosing rate)Run-20΄
Temp-67°CRun-30΄
Cooling at 40-45°C
Soda-30΄ (30% Dosing rate)Run-5΄
Caustic solution 20’ (dosing rate 20%)Run=20min
Temp-60°C (2C/min)Run=20min
Sample Check
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Leveling Agents: SQ-117 =0.85g/lCL-225 =0.85 g/lACN+CBA =0.85+0.85 g/l
Dyeing program for HF dyes:
L.R=1:8
pH=6.2-6.8
Run-10΄
TEMP=40Oc
Dyes-25΄(30% Dosing rate)Run-30΄
TEMP=60Oc(1Oc/min)
Salt -20΄(40% Dosing rate)Run-30΄
Soda-30΄(40% Dosing rate)Run-20΄
Sample check
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Dyeing program for WHITE color (Without enzyme):
SCF+InSAACN+CBA
Dosing time 10min
Caustic
Stab+50% H202
Temp 980cRun= 90mins
Cooling at 40oc
BvB +BUBZAMDosing time 30mins
Temp 98oc
Run 30mins
Shade check
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Dyeing program for WHITE color (With enzyme):
SCF+2UDACN+CBA
Stab+ Caustic+PeroxideDosing at 60oc temp
BVB
Temp 900cRun= 10mins
Shade check at 80oc
Hot wash
GacidTemp=55oc and run=10min
MKL Temp=55oc andrun=1hour
SQS Temp=80oc and run=20mins
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Dyeing program for Disperse Dyes:
Fabric treated with oxalic acid at 70°C for 20min
Rinse for 5 min
pH is controlled at 4.0-4.2
Dyeing at 130°C temp for 40-50 min
Hot wash for 5 min
Reduction cleaning 80-90°C temp for 30 min
Neutralization/Hot wash
Softener at 60°C temp for 20 min
Drain the bath
Unload the fabric
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Re-dyeing Process:
When shade is not matched then fabric is treated again in dyeing machine for shadematching is known as re-dyeing.Generally, re-dyeing is done if the shade is deeper than the target shade. It may occurwhen the fabrics absorb one or two colors more or less. One re-dyeing process isdescribed below.
- Drain the let off solution- Hot wash at 700-800C- Acid wash at 600-700C(600 for light shade & 700 for deep shade).- Soda ash washes at 900-1000C for 60mins to reduce the depth of shade.- Acid wash at 600C.- Addition to required dyestuffs.- Salt addition.- Soda ash addition.
Other operations are same as previous described dyeing operations.
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Stripping process:
Add water Fabric load
TPA+G.ACID
Temp=90oC run=20min
Drain
Fill water SCF+NaOH
Temp=98oC run=30min
Cooling at 80OC
Hydrose
Temp=98oC run=60min
Drain
Hot wash
Half scouring
Temp=98oC run=35-50min
Dyeing
Recipe:
Antifixing agent (TPA)= 3.0g/l
A.Acid (G.Acid)= 3.0g/l
Wetting agent(SCF)= 0.2g/l
Hydrose= 4.0g/l
Caustic= 3.0g/l
Half scouring recipe:
SCF=0.26g/l
InSA=0.6g/l
ACN+CBA= 0.26+0.26g/l
Stab= 0.088g/l
Caustic= 0.72g/l
50% H2O2=0.7g/l
G.acid= 1.0g/l
OEM=0.12g/l
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After Treatment Of All Program:
For light color For Deep / Medium color
C Neutralizer=0.425g/lTemp=60c-65c Run=20min
Hot Wash(AW-501=0.17g/l)
Temp=80c-90c
FS(10% Solution)=3-4g/lTemp=50Oc-For light colorTemp=60Oc –For deep color
PH=4.0-4.5Run =20min
Hot Wash
C Neutralizer=0.425g/l-0.552g/lTemp=60c-65c Run=20min
Hot Wash 90Oc-run 10min
(AW-501=0.255-0.425g/)
Fixing agent =0.425g/lTemp=50oc-60oc Run=20min
PH=5.0-5.5
FS(10%solution)=3-4g/lTemp=60oc run=20min
PH=4.0-4.5Temp=50c-60c Run=20min
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After dyeing for neutralization:
For white(withoutenzyme)
For white(withenzyme)
Forlight color
Formedium color
Fordeep color
A.Acid=1.5g/lTemp 65ocRun=20min
PH=4.5-4.8(By usingA.Acid)Temp 55ocRun=60min
C.Neutralizer=0.425g/lTemp 63-65ocRun=20min
C.Neutralizer=0.425-0.552g/lTemp 63-65ocRun=20min
C.Neutralizer=0.552g/lTemp 63-65ocRun=20min
For fixing:
For medium color For deep color
SR=0.425-0.85g/lTemp 50-60ocRun=20minPH=5.0-5.5(By using C.neu)
SR=1.275-1.7g/lTemp 50-60ocRun=20minPH=5.0-5.5(By using C.neu)
Softener solution(10% solution):
For white For light color For medium/deep color
WCS(10%Soln)=2.55-3.4owfTemp 60ocRun=20minPH=4.0-4.5(By usingA.Acid)
FS(10%Soln)=2.55-3.4owfTemp 50ocRun=20minPH=4.0-4.5(By usingC.neu)
FS(10%Soln)=2.55-3.4owfTemp 60ocRun=20minPH=4.0-4.5(By usingC.neu)
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Necessary calculations used in textile dyeing processes:
MolarityWhen one mole or gram molecutar weight of solute is dissolved in one litre ofsolution is known one-molar (1M) solution.For example,1M HCl contains 36.5 gm HCI/lit1M H2SO4 contains 98 gm H2SO4/lit1M NaOH contains 40 gm NaOH/lit0.1M HCl contains 36.5x 0.1= 3.65 gm HCI/lit0.01M H2SO4 contains 98x 0.01= 0.98 gm H2SO4/lit0.001M NaOH contains 40x 0.001= 0.04 gm NaOH/lit
NormalityWhen one gram equivalent weight of solute is dissolved in one liter of solution isknown one-normal (1N) solution. lt is calculated from the molecular weight dividedby the hydrogen equivalent (maximum valency of ion) of substance. For example,
1N HCI contains 36.5 gm HCI/lit1N H2SO4 contains 49 gm H2SO4/lit1N NaOH contains 40 gm NaOH/lit0.1N HCI contains 36.gm 0.1= 3.65 gm HCI/lit0.01N H2SO4 contains 49x 0.01= 0.49 gm H2SO4/lit0.001N NaOH contains 40x 0.001= 0.04 gm NaOH/lit
Stock solution preparationln practice 1% stock solution is very common in dyeing process. in laboratorywork,1.0 gm solid (powder, 100% concentration) dye stuff/chemicals is taken in aconical flask and pour 100m1 of warm (around 45oc) water and stir to dissolve thereagent to make 1% stock solution of that dyes/chemicals. To prepare 0.1% stocksolution - 10ml or 1ml of 1.0% solution need to mix with90ml or gml water respectively.ln the case of liquid reagents -For example, take 10ml acetic acid in a beaker; making it 100mr by pouringnecessary amount of water is prepared 10% v/v acetic acid solution.
Dyeing calculationAmount respect to owg (on the weight of goods):ln recipe, the % (on the weight of goods - fiber, yarn, fabric, garment) amount respectto the material is calculated with the following formula :Required amount reagent = (Material weight x recipe amount %)
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For example, the batch weight is 100 kg and shade percentage is 1.5%. so, therequired amount of dyes = 100 kg x 1 .5 % = 1.5 kg.ln laboratory dyeing, the necessary amount of dyes and chemicals are very tiny -taking of this tiny amount contain higher error percent. Accordingly the requiredamount of reagents is taken in diluted form of different concentration such as 0.1%,1.0%, 10.0%,20.0% etc. ln that case, the required amount of reagent is calculated byusing the following formula :Required amount reagent = {(Material weight x recipe amount %)/stock solution %}.For example, 5.0gm sample need to dye where as the shade (recipe amount) is2.0%and stock solution concentration is 1.0%.so, the required amount reagent = {(Material weight x recipe amount %)/stocksolution %) = {(5.0 x 2.0 %)/1.0%} = 10 ml.
Common textile auxlliaries used in dyeing:
Acid - The chemical compounds that dissolve in water and provide H+(proton). Itchanges the color of litmas paper from blue to red.Strong acids - completely ionized in water;For example: HClO4, Hl, HBr, HCl, HNOs, H2SO4, H3PO4Weak acids - partial ionized in water;For example: HF, H2S, HCN, HC2H3O2 and most organic acids.
Alkalis - The chemicaL compound that dissolve in water and provide 0H- . It changesthe color of litmas paper from red to blue.Strong alkalis - completely ionized in water;For example: NaOH, KOH, LiOH, Mg(OH)2 most metallic hydroxidesWeak alkalis - partial ionized in water;For example: NH4OH and most organic alkalis
Buffer - lt is a saturated solution of acid-salt or alkali-salt mixture. lt resists thechange of pH on addition of acid or alkali. Usually it is used to control the any bathsolution. Buffer solutions are solutions containing mixtures of a weak acid or base anda salt of that acid or base. For exampre, the mixture of aceticacid and sodium acetate, which dissociates as:CH3COOH CH3COO - + H+
CH3COONa CHs COO - + Na+
Oxidizing agent - The chemical compound which provide oxygen during chemicalreaction and converting to oxide, They gain electrons in a redox chemical reaction, forexample, O3, H2O2, Ca0Cl2.
Reducing agent - The chemical compound which losses electron during chemicalreaction. lt reduces other substances chemically, especially by donating an electron orelectrons, for example, Hydrose (Na2S2O4), Rongalite C.
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Surfactants - Surfactants or surface-active agents act in solid-liquid, solid-gas, orliquid-gas interfaces and reduces the interfacial tension. ln textile wet processing itworks in between solid-liquid interface and reduce the surface tension of liquid. lt hasa versatile application in textile industries especially in textile coloration, for example,Wetting agent, Detergent, Lubricant, Foaming agent, Anti-foaming agent, Levelingagent, Dispersing agent.
Wetting agent - lt accelerates the wetability of material in solution; thus helps toeasy penetration of chemicals into substrate. Usually it is used in scouring, bleachingand dyeing processes. lt is available in market in form of clear or yellowish liquid.
Detergent - Detergents are one kind of surface active agents but the reverse is notalways true. The surfactants which have detergency power and the number of carbonin aliphatic chain are not less than 9. Usually it is used in textile to clean the materialsby removing undesirable substances. These products are either soaps or syntheticdetergents.
Lubricant - The chemical compounds use to prevent contact between solid surfacesin relative motion in order to reduce friction, wear, overheating, and rusting. They arevery good coolants, provide the appropriate range of viscosities, and are thermallystable.
Anti-foaming agent - Anti-foaming agents are another type of surfactants which areable to prevent or reduce foam. Usually, anti-foaming agents are used in dyeing bathand in printing paste to hinder foam generation. Excess foam generation can createadverse effect in processing and product.
Anti-creasing agent - Usually used in dye bath or in finishing stage to preventcreasing of fabric or garments.
Anti-pilling agent - Some man-made and blended fibre fabrics can easily form pillsin their surface. Thus it reduces the aesthetic value of the fabric or garment. Anti-pilling agents are used to prevent such kind of pills formation during wearing of cloth.
Leveling agent - Leveling agent is used in textile coloration process to achieveuniform dyeing over the whole substrate by controlling the rate of dyeing. Generally itis a non-ionic surfactants type compound either fibre substantive or dye substantive. ltis available in market in liquid form.
Dispersing agent - usually it is used in disperse and vat dyeing process helps todistribute the dye molecules in dye bath. it is also help to penetrate the dye moleculesinto the substrate. lt is available in market in powder form.
Retarding agent - The chemical compound that are able to retard or control the dyeuptake inside of the fibre .Using retarders is very common in acrylic dyeing
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with cationic dyes.
Carrier - Carriers are relatively small organic substances that usually have affinity forpolyester. lt acts as a catalyst to accelerate the dye penetration into the fibe in dispersedyeing process.
Chemical formula of common chemicals used in textile dyeing:Water – H2OHydrochloric acid - HCISulfuric acid –H2SO4Phosphoric acid – H3PO4Sodium chloride (common salt) - NaClSodium carbonate – Na2CO3Sodium sulfate (glauber salt) – Na2SO4Sodium bicarbonate – NaHCO3Sodium hydroxide - NaOHPotassium hydroxide - KOHSulfur dioxide – SO2Tri sodium Phosphate – Na3PO4Benzene – C6H6Acetic acid - CH3COOHOxalic acid - (COOH)2Cellulose – C6H10O5Starch - C6H10O5Hydros (sodium hydrosulfite) – Na2S2O4Bleaching powder- Ca(OCl)Cl
Problems Encountered In Dyeing:
Uneven Dyeing
1. It can be caused due to rapid addition of dyes and chemicals. For thispurpose the
dosing of soda ash should be maintained properly.2. Pressure difference.3. Over loading in the m/c.4. Yarn lot mixing.5. Improper control of temperature.6. Less amount of leveling agent.7. Improper pretreatment.
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Uneven Shade in Rope to Rope
1. Improper rope length in each chamber.2. Improper fabric flow speed in each nozzle.
Off Shade
1. Improper M: L ratio.2. Lower amount of auxiliaries.3. Improper mixing of dyestuffs.
Dye Spots
This is most common fault caused by operator not correctly mixing andthoroughly dissolving dyestuffs in the right amount of water.
Batch to Batch Shade VariationIf any of parameters of dyeing are changed then it will produce problems in
batch to batch consistency. In order to avoid this defect the following steps should befollowed-
1. Maintain the same liquor ratio.2.Check that the fabric has the same dye affinity.3. Use the same standard program procedures for each batch.
4. Making sure that the operators add the right bach of chemicals at the sametime & temperature in the process.
5. Check the water supply daily especially ph, hardness & Na2CO3 content.
Crease MarkCrease marks are produced due to the lower concentration of anti creasing agent andimproper cooling rate (defective cooling gradient). This is encountered by increasingthe concentration of anti creasing agent and proper adjustment of cooling rate.
Running MarksRunning marks are frequently related to the material construction and are
caused by poor opening of the fabric rope.1. Reducing the machine load and running at a slightly higher nozzle pressure,
or using the next largest available nozzle size, may also help.2. Either pre setting or pre relaxation of the fabric before dyeing can avoid this
problem.
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3. Running and crack marks can also be a result of incorrect processprocedures. A higher fabric speed, combined with slower rates of rinse andcooling will often correct the problem.
4. Care should be taken to check that bath draining temperatures are not veryhigh especially viscose blends are involved.
5. Shock cooling of static material will also cause crack marks.
Intensive FoamingIn case of intensive foaming, which is caused when, the pumps try to pump a
mixture of air and water. This resets in the loss of nozzle pressure & floating offlake. If the foaming is severe it is better to drop the bath & restart the process,after adding an anti foaming agent to the new bath.
Patchy DyeingIt is caused, if dye solution is not correct and also scouring is improper.
Miscellaneous ProblemsBatch to batch processing may vary due to the improper calculation of dyesand chemicals and improper strength of salt soda and H2O2 etc. Besidehardness of water and caustic may lead to an improper shade.
The daily average production of dyeing unit of Micro Fibre Group is 20 tons.
Remarks:
The production process, followed by the Dye-house of Micro fibre group isimpressive. The processes are being carried out very quickly and accurately. Due tothe excellence of process, machineries and lab trials very few cases of re-dyeing isperformed
PrintingPrinting involves localized coloration. This is usually achieved by applying thickenedpastes containing dyes or pigments onto a fabric surface according to a given colourdesign. In particular, the viscosity of a print paste is critical. It determines the volumeof paste transferred to the fabric and the degree to which it spreads on and into thesurface yarns. The paste must colour all the visible fibres on the printed surface, so it
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must penetrate somewhat into the yarn structure. If the paste is too ‘thin’, it willspread, giving poor print definition, and penetrate too far into the yarns decreasing thecolour yield.
The rapid development of CAD computer systems for print design has had asignificant impact on this activity. The development of digitised textile printing using,for example, ink jet printers is well underway. Such computer assisted manufacturingwill considerably influence the textile printing industry in the near future. Its otherpreoccupation, as for the dyeing industry in general, is that of reducing the amounts ofbiodegradable and potentially harmful chemicals in the effluent leaving the works sothat its environmental impact is limited.
Sample PreparationAfter getting work order from product development dept.
Prepare design according to outwork
Screen preparation
Sample preparation
Approved Sample
Bulk production
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Bulk Production:Screen Preparation
Print Paste preparation
Printing is done on the mc or manually
Drying
Curing
Final Inspection
Available Printing Style in Micro Fibre LTDIn Micro fibre ltd 3 types of printing style are available. Which’s are Pigment printing,Discharge Printing, Reactive Printing. There are also Titanium printing, Glitterprinting and Khari Printing. Mostly pigment printing is available there. Dischargeprinting is used for dyed fabric print and Reactive Printing is used for sharp andaccurate design. Print paste recipe is given below as per Micro Fibre Group.
Types of Printing in Micro Fibre Group:1. Reactive printing2. discharge printing3. pigment printing
Reactive printing:
Print steam(102oc) washing finishing(stenter) compactingDelivery
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Discharge printing:
Print steam(102oc) curing(155-160oc) washing finishing(stenter)
Delivery compacting
Pigment printing:
Print curing(155-160oc) finishing(stenter) compactingDelivery
Print curing(155-160oc) washing finishing(stenter) compactingDelivery
Recipe of Pigment paste:Binder: 10.00%Hi soft: 00.50%Glycerin: 01.00%Liquor Ammonia: 01.00%Thickener(Lotacgol hit): 05.00%Color: Required amount to match the color
Recipe of Discharge paste:Binder: 20.00%Urea: 10.00%Disgrason DS: 10.00%
Discharge gum: 03.00%Glycerin: 01.00%Antifoaming agent: 00.10%Color: Required amount to match the color
Recipe of reactive Paste:Sodium Alginate: 04.40%Sodium Bi-carbonate: 04.50%H. agent: 10.00%Ludigal: 01.20%Kerosene(Fixing agent): 00.90%NB: 03.00%SF: 00.20%Color: Required amount to match the color
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Pollutants during printing process:Drying and fixing are another important emission source in printing processes. Thefollowing pollutants may be encountered in the exhaust air [179, UBA, 2001]:
aliphatic hydrocarbons (C10-C20) from bindersmonomers such as acrylates, vinylacetates, styrene, acrylonitrile,acrylamide, butadienemethanol from fixation agentsother alcohols, esters, polyglycols from emulsifiersformaldehyde from fixation agentsammonia (from urea decomposition and from ammonia present, forexample, in pigment printing pastes)N-methylpyrrolidone from emulsifiersphosphoric acid estersphenylcyclohexene from thickeners and binders.
Finishing sectionTextile finishing , in a restricted sense , is the term used for a series ofprocesses to which all bleached , dyed , printed and certain grey fabrics aresubjected before they are put on the market . In fact , finishing includes thefinal treatment of every kind of fabric made from every kind of fiber .
Objective of finishing:- Improving the appearance – Lustre , whiteness , etc .- Improving the feel , which depends on the handle of the material and
its softness , suppleness , fullness , etc .- Wearing qualities , non – soiling , anticrease , antishrink , comfort , etc .- Special properties required for particular uses – water – proofing , flame
– proofing , etc. .- Covering of the faults in the original cloth.- Increasing the weight of the cloth.
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Types of finishing:
1) Chemical finishing: Chemical reaction of auxiliaries with fibers.2) Application of the handle modifying products / additives.3) Mechanical finishing:
• Mechanical treatment with machines.• Finishing effects
• Easy – care• Crease recovery.• Dimensional stability.• Good abrasion resistance.• Improved tear strength.• Good sewability• Soft or stiff handle.• Shine or luster
After dyeing knit fabric is required to finish. During eyeing all knit fabric aredyed in tubular form. According to buyer’s requirement knit fabric arefinished in open form or tubular form.
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Flow chart of final process (knit fabric)
Dyed Fabric from Dyeing Department
Shade check
Open with Tubular form
Dewatering Dewatering
Slitting Drying
Stentering/Dryer Calendering & compactor
Open compactor Final Inspaction
Final Inspection Packing
Packing Delivery
Delivery
Finishing section is Divided into two section, they are:
-Open line
-Tube line
The machines that are used in open line that are given bellow:1. Slitting m/c
2. De-watering m/c
3. Stenter
5. Compactor
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The machines that are used in tube line that are given bellow:1. De-watering m/c
2. Dryer
3. Calendering & Stentering
Dewatering and Slitting unit
Machine Specification:Machine name: Dewatering / Detwisting,
Manufacturer: Ruckh Calator,
Origin: Sweden
Production capacity: 10 M. Ton / Day
Quantity: 01
Machine name: Open Width De-watering + Slitting, BIANCO, ITALY
Manufacturer: BIANCO,
Origin: ITALY
Serial Number: M03066-016261
Construction year: 2003
Max speed: 90m/min
Production capacity: 10 M. Ton / Day
Quantity: 02
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After finishing the dyeing process from the dyeing machine then the fabrics are readyfor de-watering . This is the process to remove the water from the fabric completelyby squeezing. This is the main function of the de-watering machine.
Feature:
• Used to remove excess water after pretreatment and dyeing
• Delivered fabric is crease free state
• Before squeezing ballon is formed with the help of compressed air passingby a nozzle
• It can control the diameter of fabric and GSM and shrinkage by overfeeding mechanism
• To impart soft finish to the fabric
• To open the fabric from tubular form to open width form
• Fabric is cut according to the needle mark.
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During slitting: Controlling point
S/J :50m/min to 60m/min
Rib, interlock : 80m/min
Max dia: 45inch
During Dewatering: Controlling point
Maximum speed: 30-35 m/min
Pressure required for RIB 3-3.5Kg
Pressure required for Single jersy 2 Kg
Pressure required for Lycra 2.5-3 Kg
Chemical used:1. Softener (10g/l)2. Acetic acid (1g/l)
Power consumption:Voltage: 400VFrequency: 50HzMaximum power: 24kwattManpower Required:
Worker: 02
Utilities:1. Electricity2. Processed air (to form the tube fabric into ballon with a view to
remove crease)
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Control system:1. Overfeed control2. Pressure3. Speed control4. Width control
Squeezer Machine:
Object:1. Reduce water content.2. Apply chemicals specially to make the fabric soft.
Chemical solution:10% solution of softener1% solution of soapFor S/J
• 1KG softner in 9liter water and 500gm soap in 5 liter water to make solutionFor collar
• Sequetering agent 0.5gm/l, anticreasing agent 1gm/lControl point:1st Squeeze roller pressure: 700-1000PSI or 5-7Bar2nd Squeeze Roller pressure: 500-700PSI or 3.5-5Bar
Hydro-extractor m/c
Object:1.Extract water content from fabric.
Dryer m/c :
Object: To dry the wet fabric
High Production Dryer:
Drying is defined as a process where the liquid portion is evaporated from the fabric.Functions:
1. To dry the fabric with the help of steam2. To control the shrinkage3. To prepare the fabric for next subsequent process4. To dry fabric without tension
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Main parts of the machine:1. Heating chamber2. Blower3. Synthetic blanket as a conveyor4. Folder5. Exhaust fan
Heating system:1. Gas fired
Utility:1. Gas (to make fire)2. Electricity (to rum the machine)3. Compressed air (to spread the fire)
Setting according to fabric construction:Fabric type Speed m/min Temperature Over feed speed (%)Single jersey 15-17 140 20Interlock 20 – 22 140 25 – 30Rib 10 140 15 – 20T/C P/CViscose
20 – 23 130 40 – 45
Lacoste 30 140 40 – 45Collar 20 140 40 – 45Lycra 17 130 30 – 40
Checking parameters:Shade CheckWidth checkWeight checkCompaction checkEdge check
Find out the limitations and faults of the machine and advise for removing these.i) Selvedge drying system is not properly functioning.ii) Maximum over feed of the machine is +60%.iii) When the steam temperature is 1000C-1200C, then delivered fabric
temperature is 45-500C. But there is no cooling zone in this machine to
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reduce the excess temperature. So a cooling zone in delivery zone can beattached.
Calendar M/C:
It is a finishing process used on cloth where fabric is folded in half and passed underrollers at high temperatures and pressures.The calendering finish is easily destroyed, and does not last well. Washing in waterdestroys it, as does wear with time.calendering, a finishing process by which paper, plastics, rubber, or textiles arepressed into sheets and smoothed, glazed, polished, or given a moiré or embossedsurface. The material is passed through a series of rollers; the resulting surfacedepends on the pressure exerted by the rollers, on their temperature, composition, andsurface designs, and on the type of coating or glaze previously applied to the materialto be calendered.Export oriented fabrics are not gone in calenderingprocess.Compacting fabrics are gone in calendering process.
Object of calendaring:
The fabric is run through rollers that polish the surface and make the fabricsmoother and more lustrous. High temperatures and pressure are used as well.Fabrics that go through the calendering process feel thin, glossy and papery.To improve attractiveness.To cause a closing threads together by flattening and thus tending to fill up theinter stitches between warp and weft.To produce smooth and glossy luster appearance on the surface of fabric.
Width Compactor
During fabric formation processes, stresses often are introduced into a textile. Suchstresses can be controlled by drying the finished fabric on a stenter frame, whichcontrols the width of the fabric and the tension on the fabric during the dryingprocess. A second method involves compression the fabric structure, as in theSanforizing process. In this process, the fabric and backing blanket (rubber or wool) isfed between a feed roller and a curved braking shoe, with the blanket being undersome tension. The tension on the blanket is released after passing the fabric andblanket between the roller and braking shoe. The net result is compaction of the fabricbeing carried along in the sys· tem. Such a simple technique permits fabrication of thefabric of finished textile goods without fear of excessive shrinkage on laundering.Protein hair fibers such as wool, and thermoplastic fibers such as polyester, can becompacted by felting action.
The scale structures on protein fibers entangle and stick on agitation, particularly inthe presence of moisture. The resulting "ratcheting" effect causes the fibers to
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compact and felt. Many processes for wool take advantage this effect, and nonwovenfelt structures are produced by this method. Compaction of thermoplastic structureoccurs when the fibers are raised to near their softening point. At a sufficiently hightemperature the fibers shrink and contract, causing compaction of the textile structure.
After drying the fabric from stenter, it is passed through compactor to controlshrinkage. Knit fabrics have higher tendency to shrink so its compaction is veryimportant to maintain the minimum quality. ln compactor the fabric is steamed toregain moisture and the introduced to the competing rolls. Here the feed roll turnsfaster than the second roll. An endless belt is fed over rollers in such a way that thebelt can be elongated at stretch; the fabric is introduced between the belt and a heateddrum. After passing from the contact of the drum the belt can shrink and compress thefabric, thus the compactor control the fabric shrinkage.
Function:1. To compact the fabric2. To control the shrinkage3. To maintain proper width and G.S.M
Main parts of tube-tex machine:1. Heating chamber2. Blower3. Synthetic blanket as a conveyor,4. Folder5. Exhaust fan
Main Parts: (Lafer Compacting Machine)
Heat Padder: Control Motor Speed.Heat Chamber: Three.
1. Lower Padder2. Stenter3. Compactor
Main PowerBlanket: For finishing Cloth.Guide RollerClip: Straighten the fabricWheel raisingSteam Box: soften the fabricLoad Cell: Keep the delivery Roller for perfect tension.Temperature: 1500C (Highest)Speed: 50 M/MinOverfeed % Up: More the Overfeed % Up More theGSM.Steam Pressure: Up to 10 Kg
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In Tube-tex compactor m/c fabric spread range:
Fabric dia (inch) Maximum spreading (inch)14” 17”16” 19”17” 20”19” 25”22.25” 28.25”26” 36.38”34.75” 47”45” 57”48.25” 60”
For different type of fabric speed and compaction (TUBETEX):
Fabric Type Speed ( r.p.m ) Compaction
S/J 20 8-9 %Lycra S/J 25 7-10 %1*1 Rib 30 8 -11 %Single lacoste 30 10 -14 %2×2 Rib 30 -35 6-7 %
Double lacost 30 -35 12 %Pk. Fabric 30 10 -12 %
Interlock 30-35 9 – 12%
Tube-tex consists of five major parts and these are –
1. Shaper : It looks like a ladder which straightens the fabric and passingthrough the pulley.
Shaper
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2. A pair of pulley : It controls the fabric width according to the buyer’srequirements .
+ +
Fabric3. Steam zone : It is given steam on the fabric surface for softness which
helps in compacting zone to compact the fabric .
4.Compacting zone :Steam spray on fabric surface
It consists of edge roller, retard roller, steel plates and compacting shoe . Fabric’sshrinkage , finished G.S.M and dia permanent by compacting shoe & edge roller at950c. Steel plate remove the crease mark on the fabric surface and retard rollersmooth the upper portion of the fabric surface at 950c .
Steel plate Compacting shoeFa Fabric
Retard roller
Fabric deliverySteel plate
Edge roller
5. Folding zone : Here fabric folding fan moving to and foe movement and fold thefabric evenly .
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Overfeed % Up Setup for Lafer compacting Machine:
Overfeed % Up for Lycra Single Jersey:60
Overfeed % Up for Single Jersey: 35/40.
Overfeed % Up for Lacost fabric :35/40
Overfeed % Up for Rib fabric :20/22
Overfeed % Up for CVC fabric:45
Utilities used:• Electricity• Steam• Compressed air
Control Point :- Water pressure- Air pressure- Steam pressure
Checking parameters:♣ Shade Check♣ Width check♣ Weight check♣ Compaction check♣ Edge line Checking♣ Fault check
Stentering Machine
Stenter is a very important and essential machine. stenter plays a big role to achievethe desired width and GSM of the fabric and widely used for heat setting of fabricscontaining lycra. Normally after dewatering most of the water is removed from thefabric but still a certain amount of water remains in the fabric. in stenter the remainingamount of water isremoved by passing the fabric through a sufficient number of heated chambers.During drying in stenter the fabric attain its desired diameter and GSM
Purpose of the m/c:i) Dryingii) GSM control: If overfeed increases,then GSM increases and
vice versa.
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iii) Width control :The width is controlled by means ofSpreader,Expander.
iv) Shrinkage controlv) Decrease spriralityvi) Decrease Bowing effectvii) Softener applicationviii) Surface coating for Teflon finishix) Soil release chemical finishx) Heat set for cotton lycra fabric
Main parts of the machine:
i) Feed zone- Centering device
ii) Chemical padding zone- Squeezing roller- Chemical tray
iii) Bowing control zone- Bowing roller (rubber roller, no of roller -2)- Sensor (no of sensor -6)- Uncurling roller
iv) Chain entry zone- Uncurling device (both side of the chain entry)- Sensor (both side of the chain entry)- Brush roller (for attaching the fabric with the pin of the chain, no of brush
roller- Selvedge gumming device with gum box under the chain entry
v) Drying zone- Gas rotamatic burner (10)
vi) Cooling zonevii) Delivery zoneviii) Relax R/rix) Padderx) Pin rollerxi) PLC profivassleeve converter.xii) Plaiter rollerxiii) Take up rollerxiv) Wheel
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Heating system: Gas Burner
Gripping system of fabric edges: pinning
Utilities used:
Controlling points:
ElectricityGasSteam
Fabric speedFabric widthTemperatureOverfeed %
Checking parameters:♣ Shade Check♣ Width check♣ Weight check♣ Compaction check♣ Fault check : Operator checks -
→ Knitting faults→ Spinning faults→ Dyeing faults→ Other faults
Chemical used during finishing:
For 250kg fabric:In 200ltr water
24kg FS(softener)1.6kg EAS(silicon)1.6kg PE40(silicon)50gm acidic acid
For 500kg fabric:36kg FS(softener)2.4 kg EAS(silicon)2.4kg PE40(silicon)75gm acidic acid
For 1000kg fabric:60kg FS(softener)4 kg EAS(silicon)4kg PE40(silicon)130gm acidic acid
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Procedure for Heat set for Lycra s/j fabric:
GSM COLOR HEATSETTEMP
DELIVERYDIA
OVERFEED
SPEEDm/min
AFTERHEATSETGSM
LESSFROMREQUIREDGSM
240-230
White& light
190OC +15% 40/18/25 20 185 20-25
Average 190OC +15% 40/18/25 20 180 20-25R/black 190OC +15% 30/15/20 20 160 25
210-220
White& ligh
180OC +15% 40/18/25 20 165 20-25
Average 180OC +15% 40/18/25 20 160 20-25R/black 185OC +15% 30/15/20 20 140 25
190-200
White& ligh
185OC +15% 40/18/25 20 150 20-25
Average 185OC +15% 40/18/25 20 145 20-25R/black 185OC +15% 30/15/20 20 130 25
160-170
White& ligh
185OC +15% 40/18/25 20 130 20-25
Average 185OC +15% 40/18/25 20 125 20-25R/black 190OC +15% 30/15/20 20 120 25
150 White& ligh
190OC +15% 40/18/25 20 100 20-25
Average 190OC +15% 40/18/25 20 100 20-25R/black 190OC +15% 30/15/20 20 100 25
Heat set for other fabrics:
Lycra French terry:Temp: 190OC(depth color), 185OC (light color)Over feed: 40/18/25GSM After heat set: 50-55 less
Lycra viscose:Temp: 195OCOver feed: 40/18/25Stretch: 40%Delivery dia: +32% to +37%Speed: 20m/min
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Lycra rib:Temp: 195OC
Over feed: 40/18/25Stretch: 35%Speed: 30m/min
Rules for heat set fabric:1. Temp constant(give in heat set process)2. Speed always constant3. Over feed
A. For white & average colori. Standard: 40/18/25
ii. Minimum: 30/15/20iii. Maximum: 50/25/25
B. For black coloriv. Standard: 30/15/20v. Minimum: 20/12/18vi. Maximum: 50/25/25
4. Stretch:i. Maximum: 35% to 40%
ii. Minimum: 18%
5. After heat set fabric dia (delivery)i. Maximum: given in heat set procedure
ii. Minimum: 14% of m/c dia
6. GSMi. White color: required GSM (less 50 to 55)
ii. Average color: required GSM (less 60 to 65)iii. Black color: required GSM (less 75 to 80)
Factor Consideration:
Shrinkage control:
-Shrinkage is controlled by proper over feeding.-To apply less or more over feed speed fabrics reduce along to length and increasealong to width. Maximum 70 – 75% shrinkage is controlled by using it.
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Fabric Dia(Increase)Single jersey 1.5 – 2 ) inch +.Rib fabric 2 – 2.5 inch +.Interlock 3 – 3.5 inch +.Pique 3 – 3.5 inch +.
Fabric Over Feed Speed(m/min)Lycra 30 – 351×1 Rib 28 – 30Single jersey 26 – 272×2 Lycra rib 23 – 24Lacoste 23 – 24Normal over feed speed 22/23/24/25
GSM Control:
-GSM is also controlled by applying proper over feeding speed.-If over feed is more then GSM is also more.-If Over feed speed is less then GSM is also is less.-If Dia is more then GSM of the fabric will less.-If Dia is less then the GSM of the fabric will more.
N.B: If GSM of the fabric is OK then shrinkage is also OK.
Dia Control:-Dia is controlled by dia controlling meter scale.-If any fault, GSM of the fabric is reduced then to increase the GSM of the fabric diawill have to be reduced (2 – 3) inch.-If Over feed speed is more then Dia of the fabric will be more.-If Over feed speed is less then Dia of the fabric will be less.-If length is more then width of the fabric is reduced.-If length is less then width of the fabric is more.
N.B: Fabric speed is controlled on the fabric dia. Here, Dia less or More fullydepends on yarn count and buyer order. Dia is done less or more by using expanderrod.
Over feed:
-GSM Control.-Shrinkage Control.-Dia Control.Depends on Dia:
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CHAPTER-6Quality Assurance System
Micro Fibre Ltd. is more concern about quality. In this factory qualityassurance is more preferred than quality control, but both are in advancement. TheQuality Assurance Department is assigned to maintain consistently uniform quality ofthe material in process and various stages of its manufacturing.
Quality assurance:Quality assurance is defined as all those possible planned and systematic actionsnecessary to provide adequate confidence than a product or service will satisfy givenrequirements for quality. The Quality Assurance Department is assigned to maintainconsistently uniform quality of the material in process and various stages ofmanufacturing.
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Quality assurance is, therefore, a systematic activity conducted by a manufacturerthat assures satisfactory fulfilment of the quality demanded by the customers.
Object of quality control:-Research-Selection of raw materials-Process control-Process development-Product testing
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-Specification test
Scope of quality control:-Testing lab-Machine auditing system-A good training system-Excellent analytical backup-Technical expertise
Quality Control Flow Chart:
Yarn receiving
Sample Knitting
Batching
Dyeing (Check shade & Faults of dyeing)
Dewatering & Untwisting
Drying (Check diameter, Pretreatment, Shrinkage Spirality and GSM)
Compacting
Final inspection
If sample OK go for bulk production
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Quality Management system:Quality assurance procedure may be divided into two major parts:
1. Online quality control2. Offline quality control
Quality Assurance
On Line Off Line
Online QCThis involves analysis of quality of inputs and outputs and undertaking
control measures while production process goes on, and this is done centrally. Forexample, in Micro Fibre Ltd. inspection/checking/testing and corrective measuresagainst defect formation are undertaken instantly starting from cutting to sewing,assembling, ironing and packing. On line QC is not involved. With quality control atprocurement, storage and delivery stages. There is another way of understanding ofOnline QC where data of inspection and checking/testing are sent online to centraloffice of decision, and from where after analysis the corrective measures are also sentonline to the place of production for taking necessary action for the interest of quality.
On Line Test:- GSM of the Fabric;- Exact Diameter and Width;- Grey Fabric Inspection (4 point);- Shade Check;- Bias and Bowing;- Visual appearance (Enzyme performance);- Stripe.
Offline QC:
Off'-line QC generally checks and analyses causes of quality deviation with theinformation taken from a past cycle of a process and recommend the correctivemeasures to undertake in next cycle of the process. Proper and effective QC shouldinclude both online and off-line approaches. The following tests are generally done-
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Off Line Test:
All the Off Line tests for finished fabrics can be grouped as follows-1. Physical Tests, and2. Chemical Tests
Physical Tests:• GSM of Fabric;• Rubbing Fastness or Crocking;• Pilling test;• Diameter and Width;• Tensile strength;• Tearing test;• Bursting test;• Light Fastness test;• Drape, Stiffness, and Handle;• Course per inch;• Wales per inch;• Picks per inch;• Ends per inch.
Chemical Tests:• Shrinkage and Spirality or Twisting;• Fastness to Washing;• Fastness to Perspiration;• Fastness to Chlorine;• PH test.
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WORKING PROCEDURE FOR LABSAMPLE IN (FABRICS)
Physical Test Wet Lab.
• Color fastness to light• Bursting strength Color Fastness To Washing Dimensional Stability• Pilling• Crocking Prepare the sample
Pre-Production Sample Final SampleEvaluate the Sample Wash the sample according to buyer measure
Test TeststReport Making Tumble dry
Prepared the ReportKeep the sample Flat in conditioned temp
Pass Fail at least two hours before measurePass Fail
Delivery Refinish Measure the sampleGo for the final Refinish
Need to test again Prepared the ReportNeed to test again
Pass Fail
Ready to deliver Refinish
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List of Dyeing and Qc Laboratory MachinariesSl.No. LABORATORY MACHINERIES QUANTITY
01 Computer Color Matching System ( Data Colour USA) SF-600X 01
02 Computer Color Matching System (Minolta, Japan) 01
03 Crock meter (Rubbing, Fastness Tester) Jems H Hell UK 01
04 Sample Dyeing Machine (High Temp. & Atmospheric) AHIBANUANCE USA
03
05 Washing Fastness / Shrinkage Tester electrolux Switzerland, 01
06 Perspiration Tester UK ROACHES 01
07 Tumble Dryer UK 01
08 Light Box Varibide-UK 120/D-65, TL-83,Tl-84 UU 02
09 Yarn Count Tester , Paramount /India 01
10 Water Hardness testing equipment= Hanna,/Hungary 01
11 Pilling tester UK , ICL Pilling Tester ROACHES 01
12 Digital PH Meter : Metler Toledo/switcher land 01
13 OPTI FADE – Light Fastness Tester : ROACHES/UK 01
14 Water Fastness Tester / Perspiration Fastness Tester:ROACHES/UK
01
15 Dimensional Stability Measuring Scale 01
16 View Tex –Process controller for Production 01
17 Digital pipet-Rainin- USA 01
18 Digital pipet-Rainin- USA 01
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Fig: electrolux washing machine Fig: Pillingassessment viwer
Fig: Channel Oven Fig: Yarn Count Tester
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Fig: Crock meter Fig: ECO data color
Fig: Electrolux drier Fig: Inodex washing machine
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Fig: Labtexh Fig: Labtech
Fig: Enzyme tester Fig: OPTI FADE m//c
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Fig: Padding mangle machine Fig: Digital PH Meter
Fig: Pilling tester Fig: Roach Oven
Fig: Solar Box 1500 Light Fastness Tester Fig: Tumble Drye
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FOUR POINT GRADING SYSTEMSize of defects Penalty3 inches or less 1 point
Over three inch but not 6 inch 2 pointOver 6 inch but not 9 inch 3 point
Over 9 inch 4 point
Quality Standard:Micro Fibre Ltd. follows the quality standard: ISO-9001:2000
Fabric Inspection:The inspection of fabric is a procedure by which the defects of fabric are
identified and fabric is classified according to degree or intensity of defects. The fabricinspection is done for both grey and finished fabric.Fabric inspection :
Two ways of grey fabric inspection used to done by-
a) Auto turning fabric inspection m/c.b) Varivide colour assessment cabinet –2
D-65, TL-84, TL-83, Florescent, UV.
Grey Fabric Inspection:Grey fabric inspection is performed according to 4-point system.
Quality Control Of KnittingMICRO FIBRE GROUP is very conscious about quality, They are following 4 pointgrading system for fabric inspection, which is an international standard. The 4 pointgrading system with defect point against defect size is tabulated below:
THICK THIN DIRT, OIL SPOT, CONTAMINATION:
Up to 3’’ in length: 1 PtUp to 6’’ in length: 2 “Up to 9’’ in length: 3 “Up to 9’’ in length: 4 “
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QUALITY Pts / per 100 square meter= (Total point * GSM)/ (Roll weight*10)Quality inspectors seal on the fabric rolls as ‘CHECK-1’, ‘OK’ & ‘REJECT’ asaccording as quality classification.
Following forrnula is used for calculation of Acceptance Quality Level (AQL):
AQL
Following table shows the acceptance calculation followed by the inspection section atMICRO FIBRE GROUP:
ACCEPTANCE CALCULATIONUp To 20 Points A Grade
21-30 Points B Grade
31-40Points C Grade
Above 40 Points Rejected
Finished Fabric Inspection:4 point numbering system is followed for finished fabric inspection.
Checking for final inspection:1. Uneven shade2. Oil spot3. Neps4. Crease mark5. Machine Stoppage mark6. Listing7. Line mark8. Pick missing9. Double yarn10. Dead cotton11. Bowing or skew
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12. Fly yarn contamination
Find out the mean, standard deviation, coefficient of variance and standarderror of inspection result of finished fabric:
SHIFT ID samples (N) Number ofdefect
Defect persample Xi Xi-X (Xi-X)2
Saturday-1 110 880 8 1.53 2.34Saturday-2 108 756 7 0.53 0.28Sunday-1 90 810 9 2.53 6.40Sunday-2 102 636 6.23 -0.24 0.06Monday-1 89 623 7 0.53 0.28Monday-2 106 600 5.66 -0.81 0.66Tuesday-1 98 578 5.90 -0.57 0.32Tuesday -2 95 500 5.26 -1.21 1.46
Wednesday-1
100 760 7.6 1.13 1.28
Wednesday-2
103 400 3.88 -2.59 6.71
Thursday -1 98 515 5.25 -1.22 1.49Thursday -2 89 629 7.07 0.60 0.36
N=1188 ∑Xi=7687 ∑(Xi-X)2 =21.64
Mean, X = 6.47
1Variance = ∑(Xi-X)2
(N-1)
1= x 21.64 = 0.0182
1188
Standard deviation, σ = √variance =√0.0182= 0.135Standard deviation
Coefficient of variation CV% = X 100
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Mean0.135
= X 1006.47
=2.09%
Higher the CV value more irregular is the pattern of the indicator. The lower of the CVvalue, better the quality of sample by structure and behaviors for the subsequentprocesses.
Procedure of the Different Laboratory Tests:
Different types of fastness tests of the dyed fabric are done in quality controldepartment of the Micro Fibre Group. Different types of method (Standard or buyer’srecommended) are followed for different types of tests. The process of the different testsof fabrics are described in the following section:
i. Color fastness to washing –ISO105CO3, ISO105CO6C2S , ISO105CO6A2Sii. Color fastness to rubbing/crocking –ISO105X12
iii. Color fastness to cold water –ISO105EO1iv. Color fastness to hot water –ISO105EO8v. Color fastness to perspiration–ISO105EO4
vi. Color fastness to light –ISO105B02vii. Dimensional stability ISO5077
viii. Appearance after washix. Pilling test ISO12941
Color Fastness to Wash Test:
Required materials:1. Sample size 40 × 100 mm2. Multifiber at 40 × 100 mm3. ECE detergent – 4g/L4. Sodium Perborate (Na2BO3) - 1g/L5. Distilled water
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6. Normal cold water7. Steel balls
Required instrument:1. Washing machine2. Scissor3. Stitch machine
Procedure :1. Cut sample & multifibre at 100 × 400 mm and then stitch.2. ECE detergent & Sodium per borate is taken with the sample.
the solution is taken by the following formula:(Sample fabric + Multifibre weight) × 50 ml (1:50 liquor ratio)
3. The sample is kept in 600C for 30 minutes in Wash Machine4. Rinse the sample twice with cold water.5. Dry at 60°C by hanging or by Flat iron pressing but temperature should
not be more than 150°C.
Evaluation:Dry the specimen and the change of shade & degree of staining is measured by
Grey Scale & Staining Scale.
Washing fastness for solid dyeing is checked normally 3 times e.g.
- During sample production- After compacting /calendaring- After printing- After garments produced
Color the Fastness to Rubbing (Dry & Wet) Test:Sample:
- Dyed fabric – 15 cm × 5 cm- White Test Cloth - 5 cm × 5 cm
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Procedure:- White test cloth is put on to the grating and stag by steel wire.- The sample is run twenty times manually for ten seconds. and the rubbing
fastness of the sample cloth and degree of staining is accessed.- For rubbing fastness (Wet), the rubbing cloth is placed in the water and
socked and squeeze. The wet rubbing cloth is placed on to the grating and stagwith stainless steel wire and run ten times manually then assess the staining onto the rubbing cloth and the rubbing fastness of the sample cloth is accessed.
Evaluation:- Change of shade of the sample is measured with grey scale and degree of
staining of the white test cloth is measured by Staining Scale.
Color Fastness to cool Water:
Test specimen:• Sample fabric – 100 mm × 40 mm• Multifibre fabric – 100 mm × 40 mm• Cut the multifibre into two piece• Sandwich the test specimen between two piece of multifibre
Testing Solution:• Water is taken as required
Method:- The composite specimen is put in a peri dish (2 specimen of a sample).- Water is taken in the peri dish as required.- Bubble is made out from the specimen by tapping.- The specimen is put for 30 minutes.- A glass plate is placed on the composite specimen for 15 minutes at room
temperature.- Excess solution is poured off.- Peri dish with composite specimen & glass plate is placed into the incubator at
(37±2) 0C for 4 hours.
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- The specimen is dried (Temp ≤ 600C)
Evaluation:- Change of shade & degree of staining is measured by the Grey Scale & Staining
Color Fastness to hot Water:
Test specimen:• Sample fabric – 100 mm × 40 mm• Multifibre fabric – 100 mm × 40 mm• Cut the multifibre into two piece• Sandwich the test specimen between two piece of multifibre
Testing Solution:• Water is taken as required
Method:Roll the composite specimen compactly around the glass rod to form a cylinder 4cm long, and tie uniformly, but not tightly, with threadLeave the specimen on the rod for 30 min in slightly acidified distilled water
under reflux at a temperature of 60 ± 2oC and at a liquor ratio of 30: 1. During thetest ensure that the composite specimen is always submerged in the water.Remove the specimen from the rod and squeeze the specimen. Open out thecomposite specimen by breaking the stitching on all sides except one of theshorter sides.7.4 Lay out the composite specimen smooth between the two glassor acrylic-resin plates under a pressure of 12.5 kPa.Place the test device containing the composite specimen in the over for 4 h at 37
oC ± 2 oC .After that dry it by hanging it in air at a temperature not exceeding 60oC with thethree parts in contact only at the remaining line of stitching.Assess the change in colour of the specimen and the staining of the adjacentfabrics with the grey
Evaluation:- Change of shade & degree of staining is measured by the Grey Scale & Staining
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Color Fastness to Perspiration Test:
Test specimen:• Sample fabric – 100 mm × 40 mm• Multifibre fabric – 100 mm × 40 mm• Cut the multifibre into two piece• Sandwich the test specimen between two piece of multifibre
Testing Solution:
1. Alkaline Solution:l-histidine monohydrochloride monohydrate (C6H4O2N3 HCI.H2O)– 5.00 g/LNaCl – 5.00 g/Lsodium dihydrogen orthophosphate dihydrate (NaH2PO4.2H20)– 2.5 g/LSodium chloride (NaCl)-5g/lPH – 8 (Adjust by 0.1 N NaOH)
2. Acidic Solution:l-histidine monohydrochloride monohydrate (C6H4O2N3 HCI.H2O)– 5.00 g/LNaCl – 5.00 g/LSodium di-hydrogen orthophosphate (NaH2PO4.2H2O) – 2.2 g/LSodium chloride (NaCl)-5g/lPH – 5.5 (Adjust by 0.1 N NaOH)
Method:- The composite specimen is put in a peri dish (2 specimen of a sample).- Solution (Alkaline & Acidic) is taken in the two peri dish. Here, M:L is taken
1:50.- Bubble is made out from the specimen by tapping.- The specimen is put for 30 minutes.- A glass plate is placed on the composite specimen for 15 minutes at room
temperature.- Excess solution is poured off.- Peri dish with composite specimen & glass plate is placed into the incubator at
(37±2) 0C for 4 hours.- The specimen is dried (Temp ≤ 600C)
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Evaluation:- Change of shade & degree of staining is measured by the Grey Scale &
Staining Scale.
Color fastness to light:Method used: ISO 105 BO2Light used: Xenon arc lampPower of light: 1500 wattProcess time: 20-80 hrs (according to buyer requirement)
Process:
1) Put the sample in the clamp and then put it in the machine. Startrunning the machine and keep it running for recommended hoursof buyer.
2) Then take it out and compare with the grey scale of colorstaining for rating.
Evaluation:Evaluation was made numerically by European or American blue scale (1-8).
Accepted Quality standard:1. Color fastness to light Above 42. Color fastness to wash 4-53. Color fastness to water 4-54. Color fastness to rubbing Wet 4, Dry 4-55. Color fastness to perspiration 4-5
Measuring the Dimensional Stability (Shrinkage & Spirality):
Measuring the dimensional stability:Sample:
• Two piece of 50 cm × 50 cm fabric is taken for test.
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Procedure:a. Conditioning: Put the sample in table for 4 hrs for
conditioning before starting test.b. Cut the sample 50x50 cm & benchmark should be 35x35 cm.
Stitch the sample (3 sides) by over lock sewing machine.c. Put sample in washing machine and run according to buyer’s
choice.d. Drying: All Buyers’ requirement is tumble Dry except ECHO
SCOURING is flat dry. {Three types of drying can be usedhere for drying the fabric- Tumble drying, Screen/ Flatdrying and E 3 ( Hanging) drying }
°
° 35 x 35 cm °
°
50 x 50 cm
Fig: Template
Shrinkage test calculation:
Before wash – After washShrinkage % = X 100
Before washBy this test spirality can also be measured by the following formula –Spirality% = A/B×100
2.2= × 100 = 6.12%
35.5Here A= Length measurement before washB=Spiraled length.
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A
B
Spirality test calculation:
S = (S1+S2) / 2Spirality = (S+S × L)/100
Suppose,S1 = The right side distance of the specimen from the stitch lineafter wash.S2 = The left side distance of the specimen from the stitch line afterwash.L = Length before wash
Mean, standard deviation, coefficient of variation of 10 pieces of dyed fabrics wereselected randomly from QC-LAB to determine the dimentional stability. The test resultare given as follows:
No oftest
Dimentional stability(shrinkage%) lengthwise Xi Xi-X (Xi-X)2
1 4.12 -0.43 0.18492 4.60 0.05 0.00253 4.40 -0.15 0.02254 4.50 -0.05 0.00255 4.83 0.28 0.07846 5.00 0.45 0.20257 5.10 0.55 0.30258 4.17 -0.38 0.14449 4.51 -0.04 0.0016
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10 4.22 -0.33 0.1089N=10 ∑Xi=45.45 ∑(Xi-X)2=1.0507
45.45Mean, X= =4.545=4.55
10
1Variance = ∑(Xi-X)2
(N-1)
1= x 1.0507 = 0.1167=0.117
9
Standard deviation, σ = √variance =√0.117= 0.342
Standard deviationCoefficient of variation C.V% = X 100
Mean
0.342= X 100
4.55
=7.52%
Higher the CB value more irregular is the pattern of the indicator. The lower of the CVvalue, better the quality of sample by structure and behaviors for the subsequentprocesses.
pH of a Dyed Fabric TestTest specimen:
• 2 gm of dyed fabric is taken.• The fabric is cut into pieces of (0.5 cm × 0.5 cm)
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Procedure:1. The sample is taken into conical flax.2. 100 ml distilled water (slightly warm) is taken into the conical flax.3. The conical flax is put on the Magnetic Stirrer for 30 minutes.
Report:The PH of the conical flax is measured by Digital PH meter.
Quality Standard:
Micro Fibre Group is certified by Oeko-Tex Standard 100 and ISO 9001:2000
SHORTLY DESCRIBED ABOUT OEKO-TEX STD100:
Oeko-Tex std. 100 certificate is designed by the International Association for Research& Testing considering the consumer safety & environment protection for the purchase oftextiles. This certificate ensures “Confidence in Textiles - tested for harmful substances”& show to the consumer that goods bought by them are free from any hazards to healthsuch as,
o Formaldehyde.o Toxic pesticides.o Penta Chloro Phenol.o Heavy metal traces.o Azo dyes which release carcinogenic amines.o Halogen carriers.o Chlorine bleaching.o PH of the aqueous extract.
Oeko-Tex std. 100 from ecological point on textile substrates (Yarn, Fabric, garmentsetc.) marked by textile manufacturers. This does not depend solely on the dyestuffs. Italso depends on the processing conditions, various chemicals & other auxiliaries used inthe manufacture of such a substrate. So, Oeko-Tex std. 100 is not a quality label, it is justonly ensures the safety of the textile goods and eco-labeled.
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Remarks:Micro Fibre Ltd. always aware about the quality of the product. The quality of
the product is always approved by the buyer. They follow the quality standard: ISO -9001:2000.MFG is well equipped for checking the quality of the product. They sent thequality report to the buyer time to time/batch to batch. We think as MFG strictly meet upthe quality level that’s why they are the only one direct manufacture of Marks & Spencergarments. Micro Fibre Group. is well equipped for checking the quality of the product.They sent the quality report to the buyer time to time/batch to batch.
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CHAPTER-07MAINTENANCE
Maintenance is the process by which equipment is looked after in such a waythat trouble free. Services and increased machine life can be ensured and specific productquality required by the customer is sustained. Maintenance can increased machine lifeand ensured trouble free service
Maintenance of machinery:
Maintenance
RoutineMaintenance
Break DownMaintenance
MechanicalMaintenance
ElectricalMaintenance
MechanicalMaintenance
ElectricalMaintenance
Break down Maintenance: Break down maintenance is done instantly when problemarises in machine. In this case, repairs are made after the equipment is out of order and itcannot perform its normal functions.
Routine Maintenance: After a particular little the machines are cleaned & reordered,that is routine or schedule maintenance. PPC does it once in a month. Schedulemaintenance varies, time in time & also depends on situation according to types ofmachines, because maintenance is directly related to production.Most of the time, all the screws, nuts, bolts & levers are checked, lubrication is also done.Workers inform about the problem areas of the machines. Depending on their
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information maintenance is done, Maintainers analyses the machine records & takes stepsaccording to requirements.
Manpower Set-Up For Maintenance:
A Shift 8 AM - 8 PMB Shift 8 PM - 8 AMGeneral Shift 9AM - 6 PM
Maintenance Manager
Electrical Mechanical Utility
Engineer-01 Engineer-01 Engineer-02
Fitter & Welder-10 Electrician-81 Operator-17
Operator-03 Armature Winder-09 Helper-12
Helper-05 Helper-09 Labour & Peon- 09
Maintenance procedure:During maintenance procedure following points should be checked.Maintenance: MechanicalMachine: Dyeing Machines
Sl.No.
Item need to be checked & Serviced
1 Crease the winch bearing.2 Complete cleaning of machine3 Cleaning of drain valves, replace seals if required4 Check air supply filter, regulators, and auto drain seals
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5 Clean filters element and blow out6 Greasing of Unloading Roller Bearings.7 Checking of oil level and bolts of Unloading Roller Gearbox.8 Checking of unloading roller coupling and packing.9 Checking and cleaning (if required) of Mm Vessel Level Indicator10 Check the oil level of pump bearing and refill if required.11 Check the function of heat and cool modulating valves12 Check all belts and belt tension13 Check all door seals
Maintenance: MechanicalMachine: Lab dyeing m/c.
Sl. No. Item need to be checked & Serviced
1 Check rotating main shaft bearing.
2 Check cooling water inlet and outlet nose and nose clips.3 Check cooling fans4 Check driving bells and pulleys.
Maintenance work to the different machines:
Boiler Maintenance Schedule:
Daily: Check gas pressureMaintain log sheetChemical dosing
Weekly: Check all steam lineFire quality of boiler
Monthly: Check all steam lineFire quality of boilerGas consumption report
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Burner clean
Quarterly: Burner cleanEconomizer cleanFeed tank cleanChemical tank cleanSight glass clean
Half yearly: Burner clean Feedtank clean Chemicaltank cleanEconomizer cleanReplace gasketReplace valve
Check gas line & filter & pressure
Yearly: Overhauling of boilerChemical cleaning of boilerSafety valve testEconomizer cleanFeed tank clean
Dyeing m/c maintenance Schedule
Daily: Check belt tensionCheck steam or water system & air supplyCheck chemical pumpMachine clean
Weekly: Bearing & belt checkCheck leakage of air, steam &Water lineGreasing bearing point
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Monthly: Greasing bearing pointsReplace bearing points (if required)Gasket checkClean steam trapLubricating all chemical pump
Quarterly: Replace beltsRepairing of pulley, shaft & bearing housingClean steam trapReplace seals (if leakage)
Half yearly: Replace beltsRepairing pulley, shaft & bearing housing Machine body repairing
Yearly: Machjne overhauling
Compacting m/c maintenance:
Daily: Check belt tensionCheck Steam supply & air systemM/c clean
Weekly: Check fabric qualityGreasing bearing points
Monthly: Greasing bearing pointsClean air filter & regulatorClean steam trap
Quarterly: Replace beltsReplace gear oilPainting m/c & pipeline of the total systemReplace seals
Half yearly: Check roller conditionGreasing & lubricating of all pointsCheck bearing condition
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Yearly: Machine overhauling
Maintenance tools/equipments & their functions:
Maintenance tools/equipments Functions1. Adjustable wrench Used for setting nut & bolts2. Pipe Spanner For pipe fitting3. Spanner Fixed Spanner for nut & bolts fitting4. Socket Handle system for nut & bolt fitting5. hammer To apply load where required6. Screw driver To release any screw7. Punch Used to fit any worn out shaft8. Lock To open the clip of bearing9. Hack saw To cut any metallic thing10. Outside To measure outside dia11. Inside To measure inside dia12. Slide calii To measure very small dia13. Vernier scale To measure very small dia14. Chain ton To lift heavy load15. Welding machine To join metallic16. Grinding machine To make the smooth fabrics17. Tester To test electric circuit18. Pliers To grip anything & cut anything19. Avometer/Voitmeter To measure voltage20. Steel To measure length, width & height21. Chisel To cut any metal22. Gasket cutter For gasket cuting23. File To smooth the rough surface
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Remarks:The maintenance department of Micro Fibre Ltd. is well equipped. It has sufficientmaintenance manpower including mechanical and electrical engineers. They do themaintenance of the rn/cs during the Eid vacation. Otherwise, they do the breakdownmaintenance.To increase the lifetime of the machineries and ensure the proper running ofthe machinery.
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CHAPTER-08UTILITY SERVICE
Available Utility Facilities:
1. Electricity2. Gas3. Water4. Compressed air5. Boiler etc.
Electricity:
The main utility electricity is supplied by generator & REB power.
Generator:Two types –
1.Gas generator2. Diesel generator
Gas generator:No. of gas generator: 03Capacity: Generator 1- 920 KW
Generator 2- 900KWGenerator 3- 1100KW
Diesel generator:No. of diesel generator: 01Capacity: Generator 1-350KW
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REB power:Capacity: 1 MW
Total power is then distributed as per requirements of different section likeknitting, Dyeing (yarn/ fabric), Finishing, Maintenance, WTP, ETP etc.
Gas:
Mainly gas is delivered from TITAS. It is mainly used for steam production. Generally36 m3 gas is required to produce 1 ton of steam.
Water:
Water is supplied in different sections continuously by using submersible andcentrifugal pumps.
Source of water Under ground water.No. of submersible pump 05
Boiler:
Boiler is mainly used to produce and deliver steam to different section asrequired. In Micro Fibre Ltd. four boilers are used to produce and deliver steam todifferent section.
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Specification:
Type Fire Tube BoilerBrand Name Cleaver Brooks, USATypeNo. DDH 15.0—10SerialNo. 18709Year of manufacturing 1996Max. Working pressure gauge 10 barMax Temperature 183° CMax heat capacity 3.25 MWWater content up to ‘NW’ 9.62 cubic meterMax steam out put 5.0 tonlhrGas pressure in line 1 barGas pressure (in boiler) 10 barGas consumption 34 cubic meter/daySteam pressure 7.5 barSteam header pressure 120 PSIBlow down line 4 times/daySoft water supply pipe dia 1 inchEstablishment cost: 60 lacks Type
Compressor:
Compressor is mainly used to deliver compressed air to different section asrequired. In Micro Fibre Ltd. six compressors are used to produce and delivercompressed air to different section.
Specification:
No. of Compressor 06Pressure of compressor 7.5 bar
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Capacity 70 m3/hr
Source of Utility:
Electricity : Generator & REB PowerGas : TITASWater : PumpsCompressed air : compressorSteam : Boiler
Fig: Boiler (Revotherm) Fig: Steam Delivery Chamber
Utility cost:
01. Gas bill (Titas) : 7-8 lacs / month02. Electricity Bill (REB) :8-9 lacs / month03. Others :5-6 lacs / month
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Remark:As Micro Fibre Ltd. is the biggest project,here utility system is vast. There is a
skill manpower group of engineers and other technical staffs to look after these utilityservices. They have to remain aware of solution on a great sense of responsibility for anytype of problem due to utility supply.
Water treatment plant
No. of W.T.P. 04Capacity 300m3/hr
Process Flow chart( Water softening method- ion exchange process ):
Multigrade filter tank ( Have multigrade sand )
Carbon filter tank
Resin tank
To reserve tank
Function of different tank:
Multigrade filter tank- To filter solid content in water.Carbon filter tank- To remove chlorine from water.Resin tank- To remove hardness by ion-exchange reaction.
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Effluent Treatment Plant (ETP)
The effluent generated from different sections of a textile industry must be treatedbefore they are discharged to the environment. Various chemicals and physical means areintroduced for this purpose.The ETP used in Micro Fibre Ltd. is Bio-Chemical process.
Capacity : 100m3/ hrCost : Tk. 1.175 / Kg
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Flow chart for ETP:
Waste water
Mechanical barge crain Collection
tank / equalization tank Pumping
water
Clarifier settles off
Bio-tower tank
Pumping
Airation tank
Lamallah (Secondary Clarifier)
Dispose to environment
pH Check
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Effluent analyzing report:
Parameter Avg Quantity in effluent St. value to dischargepH 11 7-8COD 800-1200 Mg/L 29-60Mg/LBOD 800-1200 Mg/L 250-300 Mg/LColor Colored ColorlessPhosphate 8.25 Mg/L 5-15 Mg/LSulphate 1500 Mg/L 1000 Mg/LAmmonia 20-30 Mg/L 4-8 Mg/LChloride 1000-1500 Mg/L 500-600Mg/LTDS 5000 Mg/L 2000 Mg/LTSS 250-300 Mg/L 60-80 Mg/LChlorine 0.25 Mg/L >1 Mg/LSurfactants 30-40 Mg/L 0.5-2 Mg/LSludge(wet) 800 Ml/1/2hr
Ref:
USPEA(United States Environment Protection Agency)IWRA(Gnternational Water Resources Association)GOB(Govt. Of Bangladesh)
Product Quality Checked:
o Biological Oxygen Demand (BOD)o Chemical Oxygen Demand (COD)o Total suspended solidso Total dissolved solidso Coloro pH etc
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Chemicals Used in ETP:
o Ferrous-Sulphate-(FeSO4-7H2O)o Hydrochloric-Acid (HCL)o Limeo Polymero Sodium-Hypo-Chloride (NaOCl)o Urea-Fertilizer
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CHAPTER-09STORE & INVENTORY CONTROL
Inventory system for raw material:In Micro Fibre Ltd.. there are different inventory systems for different raw
materials.
Grey fabrics store:All the grey fabrics are stored in the fabric store, near the batch section. Different
types of fabrics arc listed in the sheet according to the fabric types, quantity & consumer’srequirements. Fabrics GSM, shrinkage, diameter & other properties are also taken intoconsideration. The batches are prepared by taking the required fabrics from the grey store.At present the grey fabrics store of Esquire Knit composite Ltd. containing the followingtypes of fabrics-1. Single jersey 2. Fleece 3. 1 x 1 Rib 4. Melange 5. 2 x 2 Rib 6. Pique7. Single Jersey( With lycra attachment) 8. 1 x 1 Rib (with lycra attachment)8.2x iRib
Dyes & chemicals store:There is a different time for dyes & chemicals Various types of dyes & chemicals
arc stored here according to the dyes & chemical company. Different types of dyes &chemicals are listed in a sheet. In the sheet the stored quantity of dyes & chemicals arealso included. Every day the sheet is updated & a copy of this sheet is supplied to theAGM (production), Dye house & lab section.
Spares:In Micro Fibre Ltd. required amount of spares of different machines are stored in
the mechanical store room. All the spares are listed in a sheet which is controlled by themechanical & maintenance personnel. Spares are arranged in the store room according totheir size, quantity & requirements. There are shelves in the store room to keep the smallspare parts.
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Finished goods:Micro Fibre Ltd. supplies its finished dyed fabrics to its garments section. So
dyed finished fabrics are stored for short time in the finishing section. All the deliveredfabrics are noted on the tally khata according to the lot no, quantity, fabrics diameter,buyers name, color & considering other technical parameters.
Remarks:Micro Fibre Ltd. has individual stores for raw materials, finished goods etc.
There is not enough space to store the finished goods. It requires increasing the storearea. The store for inventory control is satisfactory. Sometime, they fluctuate from idealprocess otherwise they are ok
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CHAPTER-10
COST ANALYSIS
Ltd.The following points are considered for costing any dyed product in Micro Fibre
1. Total dyes & chemical cost2. Total utility cost3. Salary4. Payment5. Transport cost6. Lunch7. Entertainment cost8. Miscellaneous cost9. Government cash incentive
Price of the product: Not provided
Costing of the product: Not provided
Remarks:
The costing of the product is a secret matter of the Ind. They are not interested toflash up the cost related data. So we could not collect the price of product & costing ofthe product.
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CHAPTER-11MARKETING ACTIVITIES
Consumers of Product:Micro Fibre Ltd. is a 100% export oriented industry. All the goods produced in
this industry are exported into various foreign countries. Name of the main buyers aregiven below-
Name of buyer:01.C&A02. H&M03. ZARA04. TESCO05. TCHTBU06. JORDACHE07. HOFLER08. MASCOT09. Liam David Ltd.(BHS)10. CELIO11. Loom Fashion Ltd.12. Mim Fashion wear Ltd.13. Marks & Spencer
Product Label:Product label differs from fabric to fabric. The product labels are prepared
according to the quality & the buyer requirements .
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Package Size & Label:Package size & label differs from buyer to buyer. The Package size & label are
prepared according to the buyer requirements. Normally the following package sizes areused:-
60 x 40 x 40 cm.58 x 33 x 44 / 43 / 42 cm.58 x 33 x 25 cm.58 x 33 x 13 / 16 / 18 cm.
Local Market:Micro Fibre Ltd. is a 100% export oriented industry. All the goods produced in
this industry are exported into various foreign countries . So, goods are not suppliedinto local market.But when garments are rejected by buyer,then the rejected garments aresold in local market.
Importing countries:There are some countries which are importing goods from Micro Fibre Ltd. The
name of the countries are given below-• Spain• Germany• Denmark• Europe• Denmark• Europe Union• United State of America
Manpower of marketing:Marketing plays a vital role in the field of displaying / showing the goods criteria of
the products to the buyer & to communicate with the buyer. There are about 15 people inthe marketing section of the industry.
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Marketing strategy:Marketing strategy is a very important factors to sale the products to the buyer. If the
marketing strategy is not so developed, it will be very hard to reach the goal. In case ofgarments marketing the dealings with the buyer is a very important factor.
In Micro Fibre Ltd. mainly senior marketing officers, merchandiser & higher officialsdeal with the buyer. There are some fixed buyers of the industry. The buyers give theirorders continuously all over the year. The marketing officers & the merchandiserscommunicate with the buying houses to collect the orders.
Duties and responsibilities of marketing officer:
Dealing with the buyer & convince the buyer is the main duty of marketing officer.A marketing officer also has some other duties. The main duties & responsibilities of amarketing officer are given bellow-
• To prepare cost sheet by dealing with the buyer• To take different steps by discussing with the high officials & merchandisers• To maintain a regular & good relationship between commercial officer &merchandisers• To maintain a communication with the buyers and buying houses• Communicate with better criteria of the products
Actually the responsibilities & duties of marketing officer begins from getting order ofbuyer & ends after receiving foods by the buyer. So, he should be always smart, energetic& sincere.
Remarks:Micro Fibre Ltd. has a well learned marketing & merchandising team. They always
communicate with the buyers. Micro Fibre Ltd. has some fixed buyers. The marketingsection also looks for the quality & quantity buyers.
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CHAPTER -12CONCLUSION
Two month industrial attachment at the Micro Fibre Ltd. was a part of theB.Sc. in textile technology course. During the training period the whole 60 days weresegmented & scheduled to a systematic routine. There were different sides of operationin textile process. It should be mentioned that the Micro Fibre Ltd. is a 100% exportoriented knit dyeing industry. To produce a quality product above all export quality itcould be desirable that the process should be high standard. If we focus our attentionto the production department we notice that some of the dyeing m/cs are reconditioned,so there need maintenance time & cost throughout the year & some of the M/c’s aremodern as for example they have dilmenlar m/c, 8 chamber stenter m/c.
Last of all we thank all the engineers, officers &other personnel’s who helpedus greatly by lending their valuable time and giving reliable information’s withoutwhich this mammoth task could never be accomplished.