1 STRETCH FABRIC PATTERNMAKING INSTRUCTIONS – JUSTINE PARISH - 2012
INSTRUCTIONS FOR DRAPING WITH STRETCH KNITS
PREPARATION TO DESIGN WITH STRETCH FABRICS
1. Sketch first using FLATS body template –no elongation or distortion to the figures - a. front, side, back view 2. Body templates are available on my Blog www.justinelimpusparish.wordpress.com 3. Determine Stretch Ratio – you must buy fabric before you attempt to drape or make patterns. 4. Swim & Stretch Patternmakers specialize in this material and will ask for the stretch ratios before they can make a pattern or a sample
STETCH TEST
Cut out a 5” x 5” piece of fabric
Stretch entire width and length, not just center section.
See Stretch Test Worksheet
DRAPE PATTERN PIECES ON DRESS FORM
FOR STRETCH FABRIC - YOU MUST DRAPE WITH THE ACTUAL FABRIC YOU WILL BE USING FOR THE FINISHED GARMENT.
1. Start by pinning black tape to dress form to determine seam lines. 2. Use black ¼” Twill Tape. 3. Start from Center Front or Center Back and work out toward side seams. 4. Fabric must be straight with the grain line as you add each piece. 5. If garment is symmetrical you can drape ½ of design, 6. Photo and scan into Photoshop to mirror other side and work with color ways to see design options.
2 STRETCH FABRIC PATTERNMAKING INSTRUCTIONS – JUSTINE PARISH - 2012
7. Each new piece you add goes under the edge of the previous piece.
If the seam is too far from the
apex of the curve
it may buckle along the edge unless it is stretched tight.
For looser ease to garment, move the seam closer to the curve apex as shown.
Note that the seam has been moved and is smoother.
3 STRETCH FABRIC PATTERNMAKING INSTRUCTIONS – JUSTINE PARISH - 2012
MARK THE STITCHING LINES OF EACH PIECE
Use tailor’s chalk and draw a line along the edge of the fold and along the matching line on the underneath piece.
Mark all notches for seam sections that will need to connect precisely such as curves, corners, etc
MATERIALS TO TRANSFER FABRIC PIECES TO PATTERN PAPER
All available at ACE Sewing Supply downtown
Draw cross hair grid line on paper. Paper is “dotty” pattern paper
This corresponds to GRAIN and CROSSGRAIN lines on fabric piece. Pin pattern piece to paper.
4 STRETCH FABRIC PATTERNMAKING INSTRUCTIONS – JUSTINE PARISH - 2012
TRANSFER STITCHING AND CUTTING LINES TO PAPER.
Use pattern marking wheel. It will make holes in the paper, or use carbon transfer paper to transfer dotted lines to paper.
Remove fabric and redraw lines stitching lines with pattern curves and straight edges.
Add seam allowance –
1/2’ if you are doing a fitting.
3/8” for production sewing.
Add pattern piece description, all notations, grain direction, notches, etc…onto each piece of the pattern.
