Download - Mopar Muscle - May 2014.pdf
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MM014
Restoration & Performance Parts for GM, Ford & Chrysler Muscle Cars:
Print Catalog: Mopar A/B/E-Body (1966-74)
Web:Challenger (2008-Present)YEARONE SpeedShop(ALSO AVAILABLE ONLINE)
2014 YEARONE1-800-932-7663
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Tech10 ElEctronic SquirtingInstalling three times the EFI on your car
18 Boing not BoomTaking valvespring design into the future
24 latE-modEl tEch doing it rightInstalling the right parts on the right car in a quest to make power
30 gEt rolling Can a solid roller cam improve street driving, track performance, and broaden the powerband?
38 FloorBoard Fix-upKeep your feet inside the car when you drive
FeaTures44 millEr timErEviSitEdFormer NHRA World Champ goes back to the days of Pro Stock with his new Duster
50 onE SwEEt SwapYoung Gunbuilt E-Body with a modern Hemi
54 rEalizEd potEntialDick Burkes dazzling Duster
58 chargEr vc-10Brent Farrells Viper-powered B-Body
DeparTmenTs04 oFF thE linE
42 pEntaStarS
62 hot partS
64 mopar ScEnE
66 pErFormancE clinic
78 hiddEn trEaSurES
82 way Back
Volume 27 Number 05 may 2014
3010
54
on thE covErGeoff Stunkard has been de-
scribed as up on the tires with
regard to his personality, so its
only tting that he grab the shot
of Ed Miller up on the tires at
Beaver Springs Raceway.
.com
conTenTs
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Off the LineRandy Bolig, EditoR
second, I thought that there
must be a console-mounted
shifter? I looked down and to
my right, and to my surprise,
there was no shifter. What I
did see however, was a dial
with the letters P, R, D, and L
directly above it. Umm, wait
a minute; I have to turn this
dial to select the gear I want?!
Ok, I know that progress is
inevitable, but this is getting
strange.
I always thought that
knobs were installed in cars
for things like radio vol-
ume and/or tuning the sta-
tion, but having to turn a
knob in order to make a car
gothats a new one to me.
Come to think of it, most
radios are now push button
controlled, so there goes the
dial theory. I know that the
days of using linkage arms
to actually shift a transmis-
sion are long goneshifting
has been done electronically
for years, so I guess there
really is no need for a lever
to perform the shifting func-
tion. Since electronics control
everything, I guess a knob is
the new normal. That just
gives more credence to the
lack of my normalcy.
When I do somethinglike
shift a cars transmission, I
want to physically do some-
thing. I know, turning a knob
is actually doing something,
but in my narrow mind, it just
doesnt feel the same. Think
about this scenario; in twenty
years, some guy is at the
track with his car. He lines up
to the tree, and as soon as he
launches, he goes to bang
second gearoh yeah, wait
a minute. See what I mean,
turning a knob just doesnt
have the same effect.
Oh well, I guess its one of
those things that Ill have to
get used to, the shifter has
gone the way of the Dodo bird
and the 8-track. The time has
come; its the 21st Century,
so I guess Ill just get used to
dialing a gear when I want to
drive someplace, and listening
to my music on the line.
i hate to admit it,
but Im old
enough, that I have seen a
lot of automotive advance-
ments come and go over the
years. Ive seen the demise
of 8-tracks, the subsequent
rise and also demise of cas-
sette tapes, and the end of
bias-ply tiresfor daily use.
Im sure that most if not all
of you guys remember the
vent (wing) windowthat one
should have never been elim-
inated. But when I recently
had the chance to climb into
a new Chrysler press vehi-
cle, I almost got a little con-
fused. An easy task I admit,
but please read on.
The press vehicle that I
was climbing into was a new
Durango, I knew that a stick
shift would not be poking up
through the floor, so I imme-
diately reached for the area
where the shifter should be
near the steering wheel. It
didnt take long to realize that
it wasnt there. For a brief
Really, Dial-a-GeaR?
Im sure most If not all of you guys remember the vent (wIng) wIndowthat one should have never been elImInated.
4 moparmuscle.com
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Prices good through 4/1/14 Typographical, description, or photography errors are subject to correction. Some parts are not legal for sale or use in California on any pollution-controlled motor vehicles. 2014 AUTOSALES, INC. SCode: 1405MP
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Get Busy This Winter.Most of the fun of having a Mopar comes from building it. Theres no better time to build cars than winter, and theres no better place to get your parts and accessories than Summit Racing Equipment. We have the right blend of restoration, OE replacement, and performance parts plus paint and body supplies, tools, accessories, and more. So get busy building your car this winter so you can smoke its tires this summer.
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ElEctronic SquirtingInstallIng three tImes the eFI on your car
text: Mark EhlEn Photos: Mark EhlEn and MCr staff
remember when stand-alone EFI sys-
tems seemed beyond the reach of
the average car guy? Oh sure, the
computer geeks could get it to work, but
for those of us without a computer degree,
the risks just seemed to outweigh the ben-
efits. Well, now that the EFI companies
are well past their infancy, anyone who
really wants to take a bit of time to learn
about them can have a great performing
EFI system in as little as a weekend.
But what if you dont want to run a sin-
gle or pair of four-barrel throttle bodies?
What if you have (or want) a Six-Barrel
car and want to keep it that way? And
what about using a Shaker hood?
Thats the issue that Muscle Car Res-
torations came up against recently, when
the owner of a 70 Challenger wanted to
upgrade from a 383 four-barrel to a 512-
inch stroker and a Six Pack. Sure, repop
carbs are available, but EFI on a six-barrel
throttle body sounds cool.
It just so happens, that Bruce K.
Bridges, founder of F&B Performance
Engineered Products, has been work-
ing with Chrysler two-barrel throttle bod-
ies for well over a decade, and has been
building billet aluminum versions for some
time now. He has come up with a com-
plete six-barrel setup that will work with
either FASTs XFI or EZ-EFI systems. Just
like the original Six-Pack cars, you can run
around on a mild two-barrel and still have
as much as 2,300 cfm at your disposal.
Because F&B builds their throttle bod-
ies from billet aluminum instead of cast
aluminum, they can offer bore sizes of
44-50 mm, and claim that they will flow
more air than any other throttle body of
the same size. The billet construction also
allows them to build-in larger inlet areas
10 moparmuscle.com
tech
-
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We reproduce a wide range
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FREE 2013 Catalog
Dash Pads Headliners
Headrest
Seat Covers
Seat Foam Seat Belts
Seat Track
Door Panel
Taillight Side Marker
Windows Cranks
Armrest Bases & Pads
Steering Wheels
Console Plates
Sill Plates
Shifter Kit
Door Handles Fuel Caps
Exhaust Tips
Center Caps
Indicator
Pad & Bezel
Bumper Guards
Mirrors
Molding & Trim Grille Scoop Air Grabber Medallion
Luggage Rack
-
tech | ElEctronic Squirting
06 While throttle speed is ultimately controlled by the Fast software, base idle airflow is set by adjusting the throttle stops
of the outboard throttle bodies. a single Iac motor is mounted
on the front throttle body only.
05 throttle position sensor is used only on the center throttle body.
04 the complete set up with sensors and adjustable linkage in place.
03 Fuel injectors (60 lb/hr in this case) are fitted using the sup-plied fuel rails, which easily bolt to their spacer-attached
mounts. Very clean and simple.
02 Because the throttle bodies bolt pattern is smaller than the original holley carbs, a spacer (also polished billet aluminum) is
needed to provide the proper mounting pattern. It also provides
a place to attach the fuel rail mounts.
01 F&B modifies edelbrock Performer intakes for use with their throttle bodies by opening the bores from 42 to 48mm,
installing injector bungs, and adding vacuum ports for the maP
sensor. runners are also gasket matched. they will also custom
configure the manifold for specific applications.
than stock, use tapered flow paths for
maximum ram effect, and most important
in this case, they are compatible with fac-
tory air cleaners and shaker hoods.
F&B also supplies an Edelbrock Per-
former intake that has been fitted with the
proper injector bungs and vacuum ports
for the MAP sensor and etc., so you can
get a complete bolt on kit that even comes
with custom spacers so your shaker hood
will end up at the correct factory height.
You will need to upgrade your fuel system,
but well show you what you need to do
to for that as well.
So no longer are you six-barrel guys left
out of the EFI loop. Whatever your appli-
cation, contact F&B and theyll set you up
with what you need to enjoy the full rush of
six barrels with the precision of modern EFI.
Cost for Six Pack EFI: starting at $2,650
12 moparmuscle.com
-
800-343-9353
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tech | ElEctronic Squirting
12 the stock fuel tank can be used but, that will require modifi-cations. We used a rock Valley antique auto Parts tank, as they
are a direct bolt in, accept an in tank fuel pump, and make it
easy to add the required fuel return line. you can get one for
use with an inline pump if youd prefer but the internal ones are
much quieter.
11 not only is this air cleaner assembly at the correct height, it also does a pretty fair job of hiding whats underneath. If you
are not running a shaker, and youd like to show off instead, F&B
offers a smaller billet oval air cleaner to finish off the system.
10 F&B custom spacers match the air cleaner base openings, and raise the shaker scoop back to factory height.
09 In this application, the maP and air temp sensors are mounted under the air cleaner base.
08 this really nifty piece of engineering is what allows you to set the point at which the outboard bodies begin to open. Bruce calls it a progressive spring slider. the link-
age attachment-stud is held all the way to the right by an internal spring from idle to
Wot for the center throttle body. the spring is stiff enough so that it doesnt allow any
movement until the center throttle body reaches Wot. once Wot is achieved on the
center throttle body, the spring will begin to compress, allowing enough additional
cable travel to completely pull open the outer throttles. note that the stud has moved
to the left in the slot.
07 one of the really cool features of this system is the F&B designed fully adjust-
able progressive throttle linkage. the
outboard throttles can stay closed until
the center throttle has reached as much
as 35-percent of its rotation.
14 moparmuscle.com
-
(866) 684-5942www.autometaldirect.com MOPAR, JEEP, DODGE, HEMI, PLYMOUTH, RAM, SRT, CHRYSLER and related logos, vehicle model names andtrade dress are trademarks of Chrysler Group LLC used under license. 2013 Chrysler Group LLC
0VS/BNF4BZT*U"MM5.
-
tech | ElEctronic Squirting
15 using their in house mustang dyno, the guys at mcr set up the Fast xFI
system for maximum performance,
reliability, and drivability. If youre not
sure that you want to tackle custom
tuning, Bruce says that this setup is
also compatible with Fasts eZ-eFI
system. When the dyno stopped, we
measured 430 horsepower, and 488
lb-ft of torque at the wheels.
14 a fuel pressure regulator is required, but we took the extra step
of using a vacuum referenced unit.
this will sense when the engine needs
more pressure, so the fuel pump
doesnt have to work any harder than
it really needs to.
13 stainless steel lines with an fittings are the only
way to go. at a nominal 43
psi of fuel pressure, you
simply do not want any
chance of a leak. We
installed a 12-inch feed line
and a 38-inch return.
16 moparmuscle.com
-
SourcES
FAST
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877-334-8355
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F & B perFormAnce engineered
producTS
858/324-1770
www.fbthrottlebodies.com
muScle cAr reSTorATionS
715/834-2223
www.musclecarrestorations.com
rock VAlley AnTique AuTo pArTS
815/645-2271
www.rockvalleyantiqueautoparts.com
proToType SoluTionS group
715/235-0156
www.protosg.com
16 alan anderson of Prototype solu-tions group made a one off emblem
for the scoop that should generate a
lot of questions at the shows. mm
www.coolmymopar.com 877.741.8324
Cut the cable and get a state of the art electronic system that your Mopar deserves. We now offer our famous PerfectFit Elite systems for 1968-1970 B-Bodys... including factory air cars! Plus... with our new and exclusive D.E.R. controls you not only get plug-n-play installation you get BACKLIT convenience for the rst time ever!
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Boing Not BoomTaking valvespring design inTo The fuTure
TexT: Randy Bolig phoTos: Comp Cams
If you could single out one particular
part of an engine that is most mis-
understood, you would likely men-
tion the camshaft. The numbers associ-
ated with camshaft design have baffled
many a car guy for years, and although
once understood, the numbers can still
cause some confusion for many. But,
what many people dont even give a sec-
ond thought to, are the valve springs.
Valve springs are one of the parts of
your engine that do require more than
just a passing glance. Unfortunately, that
rarely happens, and the wrong spring is
asked to do a job it wasnt designed to do.
Choosing the correct valve spring begins
with knowing the application intended
(rpm range, camshaft characteristics,
etc.), and selecting all of the valvetrain
components to achieve the intended goals
of the engine. It does absolutely no good
to install a cam capable of building power
to 8,000 rpm, if you do not have the cor-
rect springs. Improper selection of the
valve spring is one of the most common
causes of engine failure. Other common
causes are the incorrect installation, and
improper handling of the valve springs.
An important factor when select-
ing valve springs, is choosing the cor-
rect seat pressure, open pressure, and
spring rate for the camshaft being used.
In theory, you can gain free horsepower
just by choosing the proper springs for
your engine. But, how do you choose
the right spring?
There are many different kinds of valve
springs available, but most come in either
a single or a dual design. A single spring
18 moparmuscle.com
Tech
-
is just that, one spring that supports the
valve and its movement. A dual spring is
made up of two springs, one inside the
other. Choosing the right spring pressure is
paramount to insure that the valve retracts
fast enough, and that your engine doesnt
suffer from valve float. You also dont want
to use a spring with too much pressure,
and wipe out the cam.
Now, since weve mention single and
dual spring designs, we need to add
another style, the Beehive. A few years
ago, Comp Cams introduced the Beehive
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Tech | BoINg Not Boom
Free HeigHt: is the overall height of the
spring in an unloaded condition, like
when the spring is sitting on the work-
bench.
Compressed HeigHt: this is the over-
all height of the spring in a fully com-
pressed condition.
installed HeigHt: This is the overall
height of the spring when it is installed
on the head, and the valve is closed.
Coil Bind: This is the difference
between installed height and solid
height. The rule of thumb is that
the maximum valve lift should never
exceed the coil bind, minus 10 per-
cent, or a minimum of .050 inch.
open HeigHt: the overall height of an
installed spring, when the valve is in
the fully open position.
seat/Closed pressure: the specified load
on a spring, when the valve is in a fully
closed position, measured in pounds
per square inch.
nose/open pressure: the specified load,
measured in pounds per square inch,
on a spring when the valve is in the
fully open position. Note: the spring
should be replaced if the pressure is
less than 10-percent of the advertised
open pressure.
spring rate: (not to be confused with
Spring Rating). The amount of weight
required to compress the spring one
inch, rated in pounds per square inch.
spring rating: specifies amount of load
when the valve is fully closed (Seat
Pressure) and fully open (Nose Pres-
sure). This may be a range or a spe-
cific number. Example: 80/160.
STuff You gotta know
02 dual springs are highly recommended when building
higher revving engines with
medium to high-lift cam-
shafts, and/or whenever
high-ratio rocker arms are
used. like the single spring
with a damper, they reduce
harmonic vibrations in the
valvetrain components. This
reduces valvetrain wear
and/or component failure.
dual springs increase safety
in the event of a broken valve
spring. They also offer even
higher spring-pressures,
which eliminates valve float
at high rpm, while reducing
coil bind issues in high lift
applications.
01 single springs can be used in higher revving
engines, using a perfor-
mance camshaft with higher
lifts, and/or whenever high-
ratio rocker arms are used.
Just be sure that the spring
is designed for the applica-
tion being used. The benefits
of a single spring with a
damper are that the damper
reduces harmonic vibrations
in the valvetrain compo-
nents. This in turn reduces
valvetrain wear and/or com-
ponent failure. having the
damper also offers
increased safety in the event
of a broken valve spring, as
well as increased spring
pressures, to eliminate valve
float at high rpm, while
reducing coil bind issues in
high lift applications.
03 Beehive springs offer an assortment of benefits over stock-style cylindrical springs, including reduced valve spring mass, faster valve
acceleration, increased valvetrain rigidity, and reduced valvetrain compo-
nent stress among other benefits. Beehive springs are shaped like cylin-
ders at the bottom and gradually taper and get smaller towards the top.
These springs dont require the extreme seat pressures needed with
standard style valve springs. With lower seat pressures, valve train com-
ponentsespecially the pushrods, rockers, and lifters, are less stressed
while performing the same work. effectively Beehive springs can increase
the engines upper rpm range over stock cylindrical springs.
20 moparmuscle.com
-
spring, which was designed to deliver
increased valvetrain stability, and be
much lighter. This was achieved by utiliz-
ing less spring pressure with better valve
control. It also reduced the weight of both
the spring and retainer. Comp says that
the unique Beehive shape handles valve-
train stress more efficiently, which elimi-
nates damaging harmonics, and increases
high rpm horsepower and durability. The
wire used to make the spring was not
round, but rather ovate. This oval/multi-
arc shape places the maximum surface
area of the wire at the point of highest
stress to handle valve train stress more
efficiently and allow better heat dissipa-
tion for longer life. Because of the design,
the valvetrain can handle more rpm, and
more aggressive cam profiles. The Bee-
hive spring wasand still isan amazing
breakthrough in design, but would you
believe that Comp Cams has even one-
upped themselves?
At the 2013 SEMA show, they intro-
duced what they are calling the Coni-
cal spring. This newly-designed spring
is expected to become the new standard
in high performance valve spring design.
This new spring-design utilizes round
wire, and features a diameter and progres-
sive pitch-driven natural frequency. Were
told that this design increases the valve-
trains rpm limit, and reduces resonance
concerns by decreasing dynamic spring
oscillations. The result is longer spring
life, and the ability to run more aggressive
camshafts.
We asked Bradley Brown, an engineer
at Comp Cams, why these springs will
be better than traditional springs, and he
told us, The Conical springs give all the
advantages that we have seen with Bee-
hive springs, but add the next level of
spring design. With Beehive springs, we
were able to deliver smaller top coil and
retainer mass, but still retain the simi-
lar main spring characteristics as a stan-
dard cylindrical spring. With the Conical
spring, we have a smaller diameter at the
top of the spring, and a tapering diameter
all the way down the spring. This allows
us to reduce the mass of not only the
top, dead coils and retainer, but also the
upper active coils of the spring. Its worth
noting that as you travel from the bot-
tom of the spring to the top, coil motion
increases, which also increases the accel-
eration of each coil as you move up. This
added acceleration works just like you
would think. If we can reduce the springs
mass in the area of the component with
the highest accelerations, then we can
-
Tech | BoINg Not Boom
07 as the graph shows, since the design of the Conical spring effectively reduces
spring oscillation over standard dual
spring design, it is subject to less stress,
thereby increasing the life of the spring.
This reduced stress also allows the use
of more aggressive cam profiles for a
given amount of spring pressure.
06 The closer a coil is to the retainer, the farther it has to travel for each lift
event, which increases its effective mass.
This increases the force and rate
required to maintain control of that coil
for a given path or acceleration. This
becomes a problem at high rpm, when the
spring cannot control itself much less the
rest of the valvetrain. By reducing the
diameter, you also consequently reduce
the effective mass of each coil as you get
closer to the top of the spring. This in turn
gives better control over the spring coils
themselves, and the valvetrain overall.
04 new to the game is Comps newly-designed, cone shaped
Conical spring. Comps Conical
valve springs utilize round wire,
and feature a diameter-driven
and progressive pitch-driven
natural frequency. This design
increases the valvetrains rpm
limit, while reducing resonance
concerns and dynamic spring
oscillations. The result is longer
spring life, and the ability to run
more aggressive camshafts. The
constantly decreasing diameter
of the spring from bottom to top
reduces active mass, thereby
decreasing applied dynamic valvetrain forces. This translates into an increased life
span for all valvetrain components. The design lowers horsepower losses, and nets
more power as well. The conical design accomplishes damping without wear, heat, and
friction, or risks such as flat dampers from interference contact.
05 evolution of the valvespring.
22 moparmuscle.com
-
increase the stability of the system. With
the conical spring, we have not only
reduced the mass of the upper part of the
spring and increased dynamic stability,
but we have also designed in a very pro-
gressive pitch profile, that when matched
with the changing diameter profile, cre-
ates a natural frequency profile that is
very progressive. This means the conical
springs are very hard to make resonate.
That helps greatly, because if we can keep
the spring from resonating, we can utilize
higher engines speeds. One of the greatest
features is that with new material and pro-
cessing advancements, we have been able
to add quality features, and increase the
rate of the spring.
All that technical stuff sounds good,
but to the general enthusiast, are they
really necessary? I mean, traditional valve
springs have been around for a long time,
so why reinvent the wheel? We were told
that testing has proven that the coni-
cal springs do many things well. First, by
reducing the active mass of the spring,
like stated before, higher engine rpm are
achievable with existing combinations.
Secondly, the potential is there for enthu-
siasts to run more aggressive camshaft
profiles with current parts. We hear that
some folks have also seen longer spring
life, because all of these dynamic gains
also translate in the spring being more
stable, which helps the spring last lon-
ger. The dynamic loads are also reduced
so longer life of the rest of the valvetrain
parts is also achieved. To quote Bradley,
If you want to go faster or farther, you
need these parts. mm
Its worth Not-INg that as you travel from the Bottom of the sprINg to the top, coIl motIoN IN-creases, whIch also INcreases the acceleratIoN of each coIl as you move up. Bradley BrowN
-
If theres one thing the readers of this
magazine want, its more power
under the hood of their car. No mat-
ter how its achieved, the quest for more
power has taken many daily drivers and
relegated them to only making the occa-
sional trip around the fair grounds. A
worst case scenario sees the quest leading
to the eventual sale of a persons hot rod,
because the fun inevitably goes away.
So, in order for us to help you guys stay
on track with making more power, and not
getting in over your heads with big modifi-
cations that get costly and become daunt-
ing tasks, every now and then we need to
slow down, and show you guys a simple
but effective way to increase power.
To keep it simple, an engine is noth-
ing more than an elaborate air pump.
The more air that goes in, the more air
that will get pushed out. For that reason,
cold air kits for late-model Mopars have
really been a popular upgrade for many
enthusiasts.
Cold air kits come in many shapes and
sizes, but they all market themselves as
getting cooler and denser air into your
engine. When your car was built, it was
designed with sufficient airflow for the
stock application, but how many of us
leave things stock? Most will want to
increase the performance of their vehi-
cle, and installing a cold air intake is one
way to do it. Simply by name, a cold air
kit should lower the temperature of the
incoming air, thereby increasing power.
DoIng It RightInsTAllIng The rIghT pArTs on The rIghT cAr In A quesT To mAke poWerTexT & phoTos: Randy Bolig
24 moparmuscle.com
tech
-
The first thing we did is make a cou-
ple pulls with the factory air cleaner
assembly in place. We ended up with
342 horsepower at 5,700 rpm. All
pulls were made with the hood
closed, and a high speed fan feeding
air to the front of the car to help sim-
ulate the car moving.
For that reason, a cold air kit should rely
on an air supply that is taken from some-
where outside of the engine compartment.
Lets face it, is just having an open-ele-
ment air cleaner near the engine really
getting cooler air into the engine? Although
the factory air cleaner assembly does
actually get air from outside of the engine
compartment via ducting, the efficiency of
the incoming air is severely hampered by
the design of the assembly.
Ideally, cold air intakes should also
01 With the baseline complete, we removed the factory air cleaner assembly. Dur-ing our baseline test, a new oe paper filter was installed the factory assembly for
our testing.
02 The JlT kit comes with this surround that encloses the air filter and separates it from the engine compartment. The hole at the bottom is where the factory air
cleaner got its cool air.
-
tech | DoIng It RIght
reduce fuel consumption, since they intro-
duce a higher amount of cooler air into
the engine. This means that burning of
fuel is more efficient. Finally, a cold air
intake will usually cause your car to be
louder, as the new incoming air is not
restricted or run through a factory silencer.
This new sound causes most people to
push the gas to the floor as they enjoy lis-
tening to the sound, and that can affect
gas mileage.
When we decided to try a cold air
intake, and see how it affects a real world,
daily driven car, we found that some do
simply have an open element air cleaner
positioned in the engine compartment.
Not feeling that was a truly beneficial way
to do it, we found JLT True Cold Air. The
first thing we noticed about the JLT kit
is the housing that surrounds the air fil-
ter. The factory air cleaner assembly got
its incoming air from an opening that fed
the air from outside the engine compart-
ment into the air cleaner, and the JLT kit
05 The JlT kit offers you a choice with regard to air filters. If youre wonder-
ing, should I choose a paper or cotton
filter? according to JlT, paper filter
design has improved drastically over
the last few years, so you are not sac-
rificing performance with either
choice, the decision comes down to
would you rather throw away the filter
or clean it when the time comes.
04 painted to match the car, the inlet tube is connected to the throttle body
elbow.
03 The instructions say that its eas-ier to install the air cleaner as a com-
plete assembly. We read the instruc-
tions after we were finished. Thats
why were installing the soft elbow at
the throttle body in this image.
-
uses that opening to also get air to its air
filter. But, the kicker is, the JLT kit has a
surround around the air filter that keeps
the engine heat from entering the air fil-
ter. That seemed like a great idea, so we
ordered one.
When we placed our order, JLT wanted
know what color the car was, because
they are capable of color-matching the
intake tube to your factory color. That was
an added bonus that we really liked. Any-
way, we ordered the air cleaner assembly,
and decided to add one more item to our
shopping list, an oil separator.
With late-model vehicles, the process
of venting crankcase pressure sends that
pressure back through your intake. If that
pressure is going back into your intake,
this also means that oil vapors can also be
brought into the intake. If youre running
a blower, this can coat your blower rotors,
intercooler fins and even dilute your gas,
lowering its octane level. This happens
on all engines, and is even worse when
08 not only did we install the JlT cold air kit, but we also opted to install one
of their oil separator kits. Venting
crankcase pressure lets that pres-
sure back through your intake. If that
pressure is going back into your
intake, this also means that oil vapors
can also be brought into the intake.
The oil separator eliminates this issue.
06 plug in the pcV per the instruc-tions.
07 now reinstall the IAT (Inlet Air Temperature) sensor that you
removed from the factory air cleaner
assembly.
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-
tech | DoIng It RIght
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that engine is supercharged, as crankcase
pressures are increased.
To combat this, JLT has developed an
oil separator that is milled from billet alu-
minum. It has a knurled tank-base for
easy removal, so draining the spent oil is
easy. Inside is a metal-mesh filter element.
This element collects the vapors allowing
them to drop into the tank. This keeps the
oil vapors out of your engine.
OK, so lets get to it. The install of
both parts took less than an hour, and
is accomplished with a few simple
hand tools. MM
11 We did our testing with the hood closed, and a high-velocity fan blowing at the front of the car to simulate movement, as if the car was driving. You cant correctly test a
cold-air kit with the hood open, as youll get false results. We were hoping to gain more
than 212 horsepower and 9 lb-ft of torque, but this was with a stock engine. Add a per-
formance tune or other upgrade and the results will be exponential.
09 The separator mounts to the cylin-der head with a supplied bolt, and the
plumbing is as simple as running two
hoses, one to the intake, right behind the
throttle body
10 and the other goes to the pcV valve under the throttle bodydone.
Service Performed in The
Official TOOls
www.eastwood.com
Tech cenTer
www.directlift.com
Official auTO lifT
www.millerwelds.com
Official Welding equipmenT
28 moparmuscle.com
-
Get RollingCan a solid roller Cam improve street driving, traCk performanCe, and broaden the power band?text & photos: Dan Foley
If one thing truly leads to another, you
can say the head and exhaust swap
we performed on the Balls of Fury
(Charlie and Chad Pirchios 64 Sport Fury)
in the August 13 issue (Two Bolt-ons
Bring 81 Horsepower) led us to this cam
swap. We felt we were leaving a bunch
of power on the table with the hydrau-
lic flat tappet cam profile that was in the
440, ergo, we put in a call to Comp Cams
thinking we could harness that power with
one of their modern, solid roller designs.
Weve learned from years of previous
cam swap testing (flat tappet to roller with
the same duration but roughly .100-inch
more valve lift) has always meant a stron-
ger running engine with a smoother idle,
more low-end, mid-range, and top-end
power. Thats close to what we were
going for this time. We wanted more peak
torque at a lower rpm for bottom-end
grunt, and gains in peak horsepower at a
higher rpm for a broader power-band and
top-end charge.
When choosing a cam, its better to
make a conservative choice for your com-
binations intended purpose. Just remem-
ber: the stick with the most lift with the
same duration will make for a more
a previous head and exhaust test (august 13 issue) on this 64 sport fury leads us to
swap out the cam. switching to a cam with more lift would mean more air flowing
through the new edelbrock heads and tti 3-inch exhaust to produce more power. we
would ditch the outdated hydraulic stick for a modern solid street-roller with more
valve lift (solid .570/.576 vs. hydraulic .474/.474-inch) while having close to the same
duration (solid 242/248 at .050-inch vs. hydraulic 238/238 at .050-inch). we did retain
the same lobe separation angle (110 degrees). this type of cam swap will liven up most
any engine with increased grunt throughout the engines rpm scale.
30 moparmuscle.com
Tech
-
Tech | Get RollInG
responsive engine, thus making for a nice
street driver. Choose one from the catalog
that is recommended to match your com-
bination (engine size, compression ratio,
heads, induction, exhaust, gear ratio, con-
verter stall, vehicle weight, rpm range,
etc.) or call one of the cam companies
they have experts on their help lines. If
you look-up the cam involved in this swap,
youll notice its only a middle choice of
the street-roller type, yet it makes a lot of
power over the old, outdated flat-tappet
cam profiles that have been around over
30 years. Never choose a race-type cam
for your street driver, or youll have a ride
with terrible drivability and efficiency.
Technology advancements in cam-
shaft/valvetrain design and durability have
come a long way in recent years. We took
advantage of this and put it to use in a
typical street-type 440 to have even bet-
ter drivability and efficiency. Besides gains
in drivability and power, a side benefit can
be improved fuel mileage. We didnt mea-
sure it, but we used less fuel driving to
the dyno and the strip. Maybe we stum-
bled on the perfect cam for our combina-
tion. Read along and see the cam instal-
lation and how we made out on the dyno
and dragstrip.
01 theres a dramatic visual difference between the solid (left) and the hydraulic cam (right). both are designed for street use.
the solid sticks steeper ramps will provide faster and addi-
tional valve lift (roughly .100-inch) during a similar duration
period (valve begins to open then close). this faster valve action
will maximize air velocity going through the ports to help create
quicker throttle response, more low-end torque, with improved
low, mid-range power and top-end charge.
03 the new timing set would be installed by lining-up the timing marks (zero-to-
zero) the same as the hydraulic stick. the
solid stick uses a 3-bolt cam gear com-
pared to the 1-bolt hydraulic cam. we
used arp bolts for clearance fitment with
Comps rollerized cam button. modern
performance cams and timing sets are
manufactured with such high precision
we felt confident not to take the time to
degree the cam, plus we wanted to see
how well this type of cam swap would
perform for the average gearhead.
02 the new stick was lightly coated with Comps cam and installation lube (part number 153).we were extra careful not to
nick the cam bearings while removing the old and installing the
new bumpstick. seen is the Camshaft installation handle (pn
5311) weve been using for over 15 years in all of our cam swaps
and installations. this tool helps save time, pinched fingers and
nicked cam bearings.
04 the hydraulic lifter typically shows valve float with power dropping off at
high rpm (over 6,000 rpm). thats ok if
you dont want to spin your 440 at high
rpm or periodically set the valve lash.
with the solid roller lifter, theres virtu-
ally no valve float to drop off power at
high rpm. also, the new roller lifters were
cleaned-up, and then submerged in a cof-
fee can full of Comps 15w50 muscle Car
and street rod oil to lube their needle
bearings.
05 this type of swap requires also changing the valve springs. the new
springs are set with 148 pounds at
1.900-inch seat load, and 456 pounds
at 1.250-inch open load pressure, and
were teamed with a lightweight tool-
steel retainer for less weight at the
valve tip for a faster revving engine
and less chance of valve float
(bounce). Comps extreme energy and
magnum series solid street-roller
cams use valve springs with reduced
spring pressure for less valvetrain
wear and valve lash change.
32 moparmuscle.com
-
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and Performance Parts & Accessories
866-709-1191 www.classicindustries.com-OR-
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The only Mopar Catalog youll need
-
Tech | Get RollInG
06 for this swap, we would also need to replace the stock,
non-adjustable rockers, and
upgrade to adjustable units. we
chose Comps pro magnum
rocker arms. be sure to
assemble the rocker arm shaft
assembly with the oiling holes
facing down when mounting to
the head. the entire valve train
assembly (shafts, rockers,
pushrod ends, valvesprings and
tips) were all coated with
Comps valve train assembly
spraythats the red stuff all
over the white plastic.
07 switching from a hydraulic to a solid roller cam will also require different length pushrods,
so be sure to measure pushrod length for
proper rocker arm geometry. notice the adjust-
ing screw on the left is showing a thread or two
on the bottom and top for proper lubrication to
the pushrod and valve tip. with too short of a
pushrod, the oiling hole will be exposed. for this
build-up along with other rb motors with edel-
brock performer rpm heads, weve used Comp
hi-tech pushrods (9.200-inch length) with the
Comp pro magnum rockers.
08 Usually at full lift theres not any coil bind when using the recommended springs. its still good to be sure theres a minimum of .060-inch between the middle
coils at full-lift. its also important to break-in new springs. never initially run an
engine at high rpm. limit rpm to 1,500-2,000 until it reaches normal operating tem-
perature. shut off the engine and allow the springs to cool to room temperature.
this helps eliminate early breakage, and prolongs spring life. we rotated the engine
over dozens of times while assembling the valvetrain and setting the valve lash.
Comps crank tool socket (pn 4799) made it easy, plus it incorporates a knurled
retaining nut that can sandwich and hold a degree wheel in place. the valve lash
calls for settings of .016-inch intake and .018-inch exhaust. we rotated the wedge
enough times to re-check the lash at each valve about five times. Yes, were nuts!
34 moparmuscle.com
-
09 whenever considering the use of a high-lift camshaft (over .500-
inch lift), be sure your engine has
pistons with valve reliefs. stock pis-
tons without valve reliefs would have
hit and bent the valves on this type
of cam swap.
Price tag
Part PN Cost
Comp Cams street roller
pN 23-701-9 $332.97
Comp Cams timiNg set
pN 3125 $72.97
arp Bolts pN 244-1001 $5.13
Comp Cams roller ButtoN
pN 204 $22.97
Comp Cams roller lifter
pN 866-16 $534.97
Comp Cams oil pN 1595-12 $89.97
Comp Cams valve spriNgs
pN 953-16 $129.97
Comp Cams retaiNer
pN 732-16 $291.97
Comps pro magNum roCker arms
pN 1621-16 $679.97
Comp Cams pushrods
pN 7922-16 $154.97
milodoN BroNze distriButor drive
pN 21525 $124.97
neveR InItIally Run an enGIne at hIGh Rpm. lImIt Rpm to 1,500-2,000 untIl It Reaches noR-mal opeRatInG tempeRatuRe.
Higher friction pads that stop faster Perform under heat and load British made eco friendly pad materials Sport slotted rotors to match Cost less than manufacturer parts FMVSS approved, TV approved
Available locally from Pep Boys and online frommost premium vendors.www.ebcbrakes.com
MORE STOPPING POWER ...
-
Tech | Get RollInG
Dyno anD DRagsTRip ResulTsMoDS HP TQ 60-FT e.T. / MPH
Exhaust
stoCk 212 inCh
298/5500 327/4400 1.85 12.93/103.01
tti 3-inCh 328/5700 385/4400 1.78 12.60/106.14
EdElbrock heads 379/5900 436/4400 1.71 12.07/111.42
comp solid roller
408/6000 469/4400 1.73 11.78/114.57
11 tune time performances new lakewood, new Jersey, location was
a 45-minute pleasure ride to dyno
test the new cam. with these torque
(33 lb-ft) and horsepower (29 rear
12 to keep things consistent, our drag test at atco raceway was on the
same 15x7 cop car wheels mounted
with nitto 275/60 drag radials (same
size as the bfg drag radials). with
the added torque, we couldnt mash
the go pedal as quickly without wheel
spin, resulting in slightly slower
60-foot times (1.73 to 1.71), when com-
pared to testing the edelbrock heads
10 when changing over to a roller cam, it is the necessary
to use a bronze cam/distribu-
tor gear for the oil pump
shaft. we used the milodon
bronze distributor gear/shaft
assembly. be sure to check
for wear after a few thousand
miles. we routinely replace
after 5,000-miles. hopefully,
soon, someone will offer a
composite-type gear that will
last for many more miles.
36 moparmuscle.com
Mike Burroughs
Unlimited Champion 6.8336 et @ 213.944 avg
Tom Bailey Sick Seconds
6 seconds, 8 Champions
5 days 5 tracks 1200 miles
8 class champions runGear Vendors Overdrives
Eddie Miller
Chisolm/StasiakJon Wischman
Call 800-999-9555 for information or visit www.gearvendors.com
UNDER/OVERDRIVEGEAR VENDORS
Rick Prospero
Curt Johnson
Mike Roy
OVERDRIVE
If you want overdrive - run the only overdrive that will handle abuse and racing.
-
wheel) gains, we feel going with a
roller stick is the way to go. we
couldnt wait to get to the track to
see how low the e.t.s would go.
and tti exhaust. the fury scooted
down the 1320 with a much-improved
elapsed time of 11.78 at 114.57 mph.
the previous best was a 12.07 at
111.42 mph. after running 11s with
gains of three tenths and three mph,
Charlie and Chad couldnt be happier
and more proud of their pride and
joy. Yes, this cam swap was well
worth it! mm
souRces
atCo raCeway
856/768-2167
www.atCoraCeway.Com
ComP Cams
800/999-0853
www.CompCams.Com
milodoN
805/577-7540
www.milodoN.Com
tuNe time PerformaNCe
732/349-7800
www.tuNetimeperformaNCe.Com
mopar muscle may 2014 37
-
Floorboard Fix-UpHelping keep your feet inside tHe car wHen you drive
text: Randy Bolig pHotos: Bill ChandleR
last month, we showed you
an E-Body that had its
torsion bar crossmem-
ber and front floors completely hacked.
We couldnt understand the reasoning for
the extent of the hacking, but it was done
nonetheless. So, we replaced the cross-
member, and now its time to tackle the
floor. We had thought about repairing
the floors with some old road signs and
beer cans that we have collected over the
years, but decided that this car deserved
better. So, proper metal it is. We all know
about AMD, and the metal that they have
been producing, so it was an easy choice
where to get what we needed. The AMD
metal has OE-style coverage like the orig-
inal piece in the carminus the big
cut-outs made by someone. It mates to
all surrounding OE panels and pieces
with OE dimensions. It even comes with
a proper flange on the side to correctly
fit with 70-style rocker panels. It also
includes bucket seat, emergency brake
cable and speedometer cable brackets.
What more could you ask for?
Now all we have to do is get to work.
38 moparmuscle.com
Tech
-
Ok, lets try that again. Now all we have
to do is stand back, and watch the guys
at the Installation Center get to work.
That sounds better.
Costs for Full Challenger floor (front),
PN 400-1570: $499.95
01 last month, we took the time to cut the hacked floor out of the way so we could replace the torsion bar crossmember. now we need to install the new floor.
02 when we replaced the crossmember, we only removed as much floor material as we needed; this helped the body retain some rigidity and support. now we need
to remove the rest of the floor.
03 once the floor is completely removed, you need to make sure that
the surrounding areas are ready to
accept the new floor. this means clean-
ing and straightening yhe edges of the
existing factory floor.
04 once you have the surrounding surfaces cleaned and ready, drop the
new panel in place to make sure the fit-
ment is good.
-
Tech | Floorboard Fix-Up
06 where ever welding will occur, the e-coating on any new parts must be
removed before welding.
05 after the floor was properly fitted, go
underneath and outline
where all frame rails
and crossmembers
make contact. once you
have that done, remove
the floor so you can
drill holes where your
spot welds will attach
the floor to the frame.
07 i know it looks counter-productive after cleaning off the e-coat, but by
spraying on a weld-through primer,
you can add a layer of protection to the
freshly cleaned areas, and still weld the
new panel in place.
08 in goes the new floor for the last time.
-
SoUrceS
Auto MetAl Direct
866/591-8309
www.autometaldirect.com
AMD instAllAtion center
706/348-6653
www.amdinstallation.com
09 Before any welding starts, the new panel must be properly clamped. if you
dont completely clamp a new panel in
place, it could shift or warp, and when
that happens, you have just ruined
your work.
10 start welding from the center out.
11 with the front floor in place, it
looks like well need
to replace the rear
pan next. MM
www.jbaheaders.comA PerTronix Performance Brand (909) 599-5955
JBA equipped Rockstar Challenger
by LDRSHIP Designs
For off-road/racing use only, not to be used on
emission-controlled vehicles.
50-state legal, per the manufacturers application guide
-
How to be in Pentastar Send images of your ride, along with all the information about your ride, and well make you a STAR. Remember to include ALL your information, even where youre from. Send your digital images (at least 300 dpi) and information to [email protected]; or snail mail your print images and info to Mopar Muscle Magazine C/O PentaSTARS, 9036 Brittany Way, Tampa, FL 33619. Send us a good quality front shot (think feature shot) and an interior and engine bay shot.
PentaStarS
Hemified T/AWho: Tom Bush
Where: Mauston, Wisconsin
What: 70 Dodge Challenger hardtop
Toms T/A-inspired Challenger (built by
LCars Automotive in Cameron, Wiscon-
sin) uses not a 340 Six Pack for power,
but an Andy Weber-built 528-inch Hemi,
based on an Indy Cylinder Head Legend
Maxx aluminum block and their 426-1RA
heads. Also going in: a Callies crankshaft,
Oliver rods and CP 13.5:1 pis-
tons, and a Comp Cams solid-
roller camshaft. It breathes in
through an Indy intake and
an AED 1150/Max Dominator,
and breathes out through tti
headers and Aero/Supertrapp
mufflers.
It sits on an Art Morrison
chassis, with a modified TKO
five-speed, and a 4.10 geared
Dana 60 with Moser axles and
a Detroit Locker differential.
Inside, theres plenty of cus-
tom work, including custom carbon fiber
door/side panels, Recaro buckets, and a
custom dash filled with AutoMeter gauges.
Outside, the shaved E-Body wears Sik-
kens two-stage black paint, and Hoosier
Drag Radial-shod Minilite wheels fill the
fenderwells. MM
ResToRed RARiTyWho: Tom Finocchio
Where: Horsham, Pennsylvania
What: 70 Plymouth Road Runner con-
vertible
Tom sent along some pictures of his 70
Plymouth Road Runner convertible, which
he restored to stock condition after acquir-
ing it as a project-ready basket case.
Its a real Vitamin C Orange/383/
four-speed convertible, with a white
interior and top. A very rare car (total
70 RR droptops: 824) in a very rare
color combo.
The two years that he spent
restoring it included an entire winter
welding on new steel in his spare time,
and finding a correct-date-coded 1970
383 to replace the original engine.
Per Tom, the restored Road Runner
runs like a top, and gets lots of looks
whenever he takes it out.
42 moparmuscle.com
-
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Miller TiMe
RevisitedFormer NHrA World CHAmp goes bACk to tHe dAys oF pro stoCk WitH His NeW duster
text & pHotos: Geoff Stunkard
44 moparmuscle.com
-
ed Millers name might not
be familiar to more recent
Mopar converts, but he
was one of the truly dom-
inant drivers from the
1960s era Plymouth
camp. After all, Miller and car part-
ner Kip Gunther won the very first
NHRA Super Stock World Champi-
onship in 1967, as well as several
other class and event titles. Ed also
made waves in the long-defunct
NASCAR drag racing series, and
the rival AHRA sanction. As a result
of that success, he was among a
handful of drivers to get a factory
acid-dipped 70 A-Body in 1970,
the first year of NHRA Pro Stock. Ed
made the trip to pick up two cars
that year, one that would be his
own, and the one Bill Stiles ended
up with.
Though Pro Stock was new for
1970, Ed actually had a bit of an
advantage, due to running in the
AHRAs Pro Super Stock class, and
the NHRAs Division 1 Super Stock
circuit the previous seasons. He ran
the Duster for a couple of seasons,
but circumstances and changes in
his factory sponsorship finally made
him hang up his Pro
credentials in
late 1971 for
his speed
shop busi-
ness and
IHRA sports-
man racing.
As the
nostalgia
movement
blossomed,
Ed returned
to the driv-
ers seat in
another 65 Plymouth, but
his Duster had likely been his most
visible car, and he decided to go
ahead and recreate a version for the
21st century. The first Duster was
a great car when I finally finished
it, Ed recalls. I wanted something
I could bring to races and shows,
and maybe do some bracket and
exhibition racing with.
Now, for purists, a suitable goal
might have been to build a circa-
correct 1970 vehicle. Ed, having
lived through those days person-
ally, decided it would be better to
mopaR muscle may 2014 45
-
Miller TiMerevisiTed
46 moparmuscle.com
-
Fast Facts70 Duster moDernizeD Pro stock recreationCar Owner: Ed Miller, Chesapeake, Virginia
moPar Powerengine: For Ed, whose racing was done almost exclusively with Hemi power from 1965 on, there was no real decision about how the spark plugs would go into the heads. Years of experience led him to build a 7,000-rpm red line aluminum block package with massaged aluminum Mopar heads and a Super Stock-era cross ram that hosts a pair of 770-cfm Holleys that Ed reworked for the combination. MSD, Optima, Mopar and Champion juice it, with Hookers sending the sound out; Barry Grant fuel pumps push race-grade go-fast to the carbs, with a Charlies oil pan keepin it all slick with seven quarts from Quaker State.
transmission: Ed also built a race-level 727 Flite, with a Griner valve body, CSR blanket and Mopar 9-inch converter to go behind that 700-plus horsepower. A Hurst Quarter Stick allows slap-and-go shifts at speed.
Differential: The Moser setup is bullet proof, and selected for ease of gear ratio pumpkin swaps. A 4.71 ring is presently in the car for quarter-mile passes.
HorsePower anD Performance: about 700 horsepower, that has run a best of 9.29 at 140 so far in quarter-mile
sure griPsusPension: Ed chose several adjustable suspension aids, including QA1 shocks, a four-link, and a front rack-and-pinion with A-arms. In addition to getting the car down track straighter, a lot of weight was also removed.
Brakes: Big discs up front are balanced with heavy duty rear drums.
wHeels: Modern is what we consider the Monocoque rims, with Moroso drag rubber up front and ubiquitous 14x32 M/T slicks in the rear.
HigH imPactBoDy: Prep included numerous fiberglass pan-els; the rest is OEM sheet metal.
Paint: While pearl and orange were done at Affordable Auto Body by Brett Parker, the rec-reated graphics and lettering was completed by Rick Hart.
interior: A fiberglass dash was filled with Auto Meter gauges, while Ed picked a pair of polyethylene seats covered in orange and black.
sPecial tHanks: Crew chief Sharron Miller, car chief Charlie Robbins, crew men Glen Smith, Dana Byrum and Jon Wise; special thanks Bob and Chris Yates, Matt Heilman.
use some modern technology if he was
actually going to pilot this thing down
track at 125+ mph. While old school is
cool, safety and consistency are the keys
to success in the modern day, so he took
advantage of some of what has happened
over the last 40 years. After all, Ed has
never really stopped.
The body itself was a clean roller
bought back in 2004, for this purpose.
Eds background in both racing and per-
formance equipment made this a long-
term home project that took six years
of spare time to finish. The body was
stripped clean, and reconstructed with
fiberglass parts replacing just about any
removable part hood, deck, doors, fend-
ers, bumpers and dash. One important
aspect of the overall appearance was put-
ting the right paint on it; Bret Parker
sprayed the white pearl down, then Rick
Hart came back and did the graphics and
lettering. Its a good match for the origi-
nal scheme.
As you can see, Ed called his car Hemi
Duster back in the day, so it was an ele-
phant lung that ended up between the
front frame rails. Miller pulled some his
old speed secrets, choosing a cross ram to
allow for good hood clearance under the
Six Pack scoop. With a Keith Black 426
block and a massaged stroker crankshaft
in the bottom end. Next were big pop
13.0:1 CP pistons, Groden rods, a Racer
Brown roller cam of unspecified measure-
ment (maybe Ed will tell you if you decide
you want him to build you the same com-
bination), followed up with Crane and fac-
tory valve gear, in the aluminum Mopar
heads ported by Glenn Smith. Ed also
rebuilt the 727, using a 3,800 stall con-
verter to get the engine breathing before
launch. A 4.71 gear in a Moser housing is
there for easy swaps.
The biggest change from the old days,
however, was to the suspension. Again,
Ed had lived through it, and decided a
rack-and-pinion for torsion bars and a
four-link in place of leaf springs would
[The original dusTer] was preTTy well-builT, so unless iT goT ToTally desTroyed, i Think iT is sTill ouT There in a barn soMeplace. ed Miller
enGine: ed miller raced Hemis all of his
life, so the recreation houses an all-new
beast built around a keith black block.
mopaR muscle may 2014 47
-
help the fresh package bite hard and
go straight. QA1 shocks and adjustable
front coil-overs aid in the dial-up, and
static weight on the spindles was greatly
reduced with Monocoque wheels on all for
corners. A 12-point cage was installed just
in case, while Ed added the gizmos to go
bracket racing into the customized interior.
Its all business, but hey, youre only in it
for no more than 10 seconds, right?
Now completed, we shot the Duster
during the incredible once-a-year car festi-
val in Henderson, North Carolina, last fall,
and got our action images at the Beaver
Springs Nostalgia Nationals recently. The
car has been a labor of love in the truest
sense, and the past several months were
spent getting it dialed up, now running
times down in the nine-second range. On
balance, while some may think he should
have gone more old school on a car like
this, we have to say that anybody with
credentials like Eds can do whatever they
want. Its Miller time again... mm
interior: its a race car, but did the
dash make you take a second look?
oriGinal: Heres a shot of ed in his 65
car at pomona.
newS: Favored to win!
Miller TiMerevisiTed
48 moparmuscle.com
-
One Sweet Swap
In the past, weve brought you sto-
ries of an all-Mopar engine swap
thats a match made in heaven, in
the eyes of many: The modern Hemi
engine into a muscle-era Plymouth
or Dodge.
Mike Abramsons 74 Challenger is
another E-Body thats now graced with a 5.7
Hemi under its hood. Whats different about
this swap is that it wasnt done by a long-
time Mopar builder, but by a Young Gun.
Mikewho finished high school in
2013accomplished this with the help of
his father, whod owned the Challenger for
years with the intent of restoring it some-
day. But it was Mike who got the proj-
ect rolling. We started putting it together
before my freshman year of high school,
he recalls. But, to put it in the condition
its in now, with all the modern improve-
ments, that started at the beginning of
my senior year of high school. Thats also
when I took a major part in putting this
thing together.
First things firstthat last-year E-Body
needed to have nearly four decades worth
of rust and rot removed. We had it on a
rotisserie, and we cut out all the rust and
the questionable patches, and replaced
them with new metal, and then we went
from there, says Mike. The 74 grille and
taillights also made a one-way trip off of the
Challenger, to be replaced by a 1970 grille/
Young gunBuilt E-BodY witH A ModErn HEMi
tExt: Scott roSS PHotos: randy Bolig
50 moparmuscle.com
-
Sitting Pretty: Bought long ago by
his father, this E-Body became Mike
Abramsons project, which he restored
while adding modern Hemi power and 70
Challenger styling.
FaSt FactS74 DoDge ChallengerOwned by: Michael Abramson, Merrick, New York
Mopar powerengine: The V-8 that E-Body fans could only dream about in 1974: a 5.7 Hemi from an 09 Challenger R/T. A custom aluminum cold-air intake, plus 2-inch Flowmaster mufflers are the only non-factory items on this Hemi.
TransMission: Tremec six-speed man-ual, with Pistol Grip shifter, is also from an 09 Challenger R/T.
rear: Another 09 Challenger R/T gave up its rear end for this E-Body, which was narrowed five inches, fitted to a custom-made cradle/subframe, and filled with custom axle shafts from The Driveshaft Shop and OEM 2.73:1 rear gears.
sure gripsuspension: (Front) Magnum Forces chassis hardware replaced the stock E-Body front suspension (Rear) No leaf springs here, but a modified/narrowed 09 Challenger independent rear sus-pension instead.
Brakes: Wilwood front discs combine with stock 09 Challenger R/T rear discs for Hemi-quality stopping power.
wheels/Tires: Big Coys rims (18x8 inches front, 20x9 inches rear) wear huge Toyo Proxes tires (225/40R18 front, 295/30ZR20 rear)
high iMpaCTpainT/BoDy: Original 1974 E-Body (with 70 Challenger sheetmetal, grille, bum-pers and lights) restored by Aimes Col-lision in Freeport, New York, before the two-stage Sassy Grass Green went on.
inTerior: Restored original 74 Chal-lenger, thanks to Legendary (seat covers and headliner) and YearOne (carpets). Sound system is by Pioneer and Hertz, courtesy of Avenue Sound, Freeport, NY. Custom six-speed shifter boot is by Das Boot.
taillight combo come reassembly time.)
Instead of a drop-in engine swap like
an LA, B/RB or 426 Hemi, Mike chose to
go the modern route. We know somebody
-
engine: Whats better than a salvage-
yard find? How