Download - Perfumes
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Perfumes• Earliest use of plant fragrance lost in history
• Perfume (burning plants) may have been first use
• Egyptians using scented oils at least 5000 years ago
• Egyptian men would put solid cone of perfume on the head, let it melt
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• Greeks used various scents for different body parts– mint, marjorum,
thyme, etc
• Romans scented clothes, houses, bedding and bath oil, as well as their bodies
• Japanese and Chinese used incense as clocks
http://www.nawcc.org/museum/nwcm/galleries/asian/incense.htm
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Traditional methods of extracting essences
• Not usually water soluble
• Macerate (chop) plant parts in hot oil, then extract with alcohol
• Enfleurage – flowers placed on layer of
purified fat or oil– they are replaced every
couple of weeks– yields outstanding scents,
very expensivehttp://www.museesdegrasse.com
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• Popularity of perfume waned in Europe after the fall of the Roman empire, returned with the crusaders
• Distillation of essential oils
• Attributed to Avicenna, Arab, late 900’s
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Distillation of natural fragrances
• Plant parts are exposed to steam• Volatile oils are carried out in steam• Steam is cooled, oil floats and can be
skimmed• 5-6 tons of roses needed to get one kilo of
essential rose oil• Fractional distillation allows collection of
substances with different volatility
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Attars (steam distillates) being prepared in India
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Perfumes in 18th century Europe
• More flowery as opposed to heavier scents
• Numerous ways to use perfumes, elaborate containers
• Vinaigrettes• Pommanders go out of
style with availability of liquid perfume
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Eau de Cologne
• Germany, invented an 1709 by an Italian barber
• Rosemary, orange flower, and bergamot oils distilled in grape spirits
• Non-greasy• Napolean decreed the
formula must be public in 1810
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Grasse, in Provence, France
• Started with tannery perfumes– for scenting gloves?
• A local company got a patent on the distillation system
• 1720’s become a local industry
• Good sources for jasmine, rose, orange
• Modern perfume industry started here
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Perfume odorant types today
• Concretes– purest, soft plant parts are placed in solvent
• Absolutes– concretes concentrated in alcohol
• Resinoids– extracted like concretes, from plant secretions
• Tinctures– direct extraction with ethanol
• Distilled essential oils– most common modern methods
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Perfume anatomy
• Top notes– immediately perceived, highly volatile, bright,
often citrus, ginger
• Middle notes– a minute to an hour; often rose, lavender
• Bottom notes– often animal, resin scents, perhaps vanilla,
sandlewood
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Types of fragances
• Perfume (22% essential oils)
• Eau de Parfum (15-22%)
• Eau de Toilette (8-15%)
• Eau de Cologne (4%)
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Business of scents (perfumes)
• 10-20 billion dollar industry
• Only a few companies are doing smell R & D
• They work for two main client groups; household products companies, and perfume companies
• Lots of secrecy
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Lavender
• Mint family• Sterile hybrid of two species
(L. angustifolia and L. latifolia) most often used today
• Obtained by steam distillation• More than 300 components,
linalool important• In many men’s fragrances (fern
note)
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Rose• Rosa centifolia and
damascena
• Petals extracted with steam or solvents
• Used in many perfumes, foods
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Geranium • Pelargonium graveolens• Oils distilled from leaves and
stems• Much cheaper than rose,
similar fragrance in some types
• Essence from Reunion island especially fruity
• Also in drinks, insect repellent
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Geraniol and related compounds
• Found in a variety of plants
• Also produced synthetically
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Jasmine• Jasminum grandiflorum• Volatile solvents now
used, used to be enfleurage• A ton of flowers to yield a
kilo of essence• Extremely expensive• Wide range of
“jasmonoid” compounds, biosynthesis perhaps similar to prostaglandins
• Benzyl acetate and related compounds common
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Tuberose
• Polyanthes tuberosa• Amaryllis relative• Expensive, low yield to
extract, done by enfleurage until relatively recently
• Many fragrance compounds (eugenols, nerol) also some weird tuberose lactones
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Orange
• Citrus species
• Flowers, leaves, fruits, even bark all used
• Distillation or solvents used
• Wide range of compounds isolated, including linalool
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Bergamot
• Citrus bergamia• Zests from unripe fruits
used• Harmonious with many
other compounds; contains linalool, limonene does not dominate in this as it does in orange oil
• Coumarins removed from essence (photosensitizing)
• In Earl Grey tea, as well as perfumes, soaps
• Eau de Colognes
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Iris of Florence
• Iris pallida• Violet-scented rhizomes
(orris root) used to produce a concrete with iron in myristic acid (called a butter)
• In perfume with heavy, woody notes
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ylang-ylang
• Cananga odorata, related plants
• From SE Asia (?)• Annonaceae• Very floral scent• Several common
compounds (eugenols, linalool) also
• p-Cresyl methyl ether – stinks by itself, but blends
well
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Patchouli
• Shrub in the mint family• Pogostemon cablin • Distilled dried leaves
yield several important fragrances
• Distinctive strong odor, but also mixes well
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Vanilla• Native to Mexico, much
now grown in Madagascar• More than 200 compounds
have been identified• Extract used in small
amounts in perfumes; it’s very strong
• Lots of synthetic vanillin relatives used
vanillin
Vanillin analogs, some with carnation, cocoa butter overtones
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Oakmoss
• Evernia prunastri
• A lichen found in much of Europe
• Some constituents now synthesized
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Olibanum (incense tree)
• Resin from a Boswellia tree
• Resinous, woody smell
• Used in some perfumes (Opium, Jicky)
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Fixatives
• Various animal products– Ambergis, musk, castoreum, civet– synthetics often used now– e.g. ambergris compound from
sage
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Others
• Ginger, cardamom, pepper (Piper nigrum), clove
• Many more…
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Perfume themes
• Floral
• Chypre (bergamot, jasmine, oakmoss)
• Aldehydic (most famous is Chanel No.5, described as piquant)
• Fougerè (lavender, coumarin, oakmoss), often in men’s products
• Woody (sandlewood, patchouli, cedar)
• Oriental (includes vanilla, ambergris)
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Synthetic vs natural: what are the issues?
• “The truth about fragrance oils”– www.earthmamaangelbaby.com/fragrance_oils.html
– “Each essential oil comes from just one source, a living plant. There are no chemicals involved.”
• Remember, they are all chemicals!• We may actually know more about the synthetic
mixtures than the natural ones
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Concerns
• Toxicity to people?
• Allergens?
• Increasing asthma incidence?
• Unknown compounds in the mix?
• Persistence in the environment?– Example: synthetic musk
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Synthetic musk
• May accumulate in some organisms (e.g. mussels), prevents removal of other toxins