Photographing Water
A Presentation for the Harford County Photography Club January 08, 2014
Images copyright © Walt Polley 2002–2013
Standard Disclaimer
• These photographs were shot by me over eleven years using four different digital cameras with wildly varying number of pixels and lens quality.
• Some images are better than others; most are not.
• When originally shot, I had no idea they would end up in a class on how to photograph water.
• The images are pretty much "straight out of the camera" – this is not a class on post production.
• So yes, these images can be improved.
Standard Disclaimer
• The purpose for this class is threefold. – To provide ideas on how to photograph water. – To show how one person approached this topic. – To stimulate your creative juices.
• The slide set is posted on the meetup website. • Sit back, enjoy and get inspired!
The Nature of Water
• Science says that water exists in three physical states: – Solid water – frost, snow, ice, hail. – Liquid water – dew, rain, streams, rivers , ponds,
lakes, oceans. – Water vapor or aerosol – fog, clouds, steam.
• The physical states of water may exist alone or in combination.
The Nature of Water
• In photographic terms, water comes in two forms: static and moving. – Water in its static form can be photographed by
the same methods used for "normal" photography.
– Water that is moving requires special attention.
The Nature of Water
• Water occurs in a variety of settings (calm, falling, flowing, turbulent, breaking, splashing, etc).
• Each physical state, form and setting brings its own photographic challenges.
Clouds
• Much of the water on earth began in a cloud. • Very few photographers take photographs of a
cloud unless it is part of a larger landscape scene. • A circular polarizing (CP) filter helps the cloud
stand out from the rest of the sky and brings out some of the detail within the cloud.
• Underexpose clouds in order to keep inner detail. • Check the histogram after each cloud shot to see
if an exposure adjustment is needed.
Clouds
Without CP Filter With CP Filter
Clouds
Clouds
Rain
• Where to focus? – When photographing during rain, focus on the
foreground. – Rain reduces the definition of objects in the
distance.
• How to handle the exposure? – It is important not to lose the feeling of the rain. – Check the histogram to make sure that data at the
bright end (right hand side) of the scale is not lost.
Rain
• How to post process? – Stay away from any sharpening of the image.
• Colors may appear more intense under light rain, but subdued in heavy rain.
• Don't forget rainbows!
Rain
Rain
Rain
Fog and Mist
• Where to focus? – Focus on the foreground. – Objects in the distance may have reduced definition. – Don't try to make the background sharp.
• How to handle the exposure? – Do not lose the feeling of the fog and mist. – Decrease the exposure. – Do not burn out the fog or mist. – Check the histogram. Make sure that data at the
bright end (right hand side) of the scale is not lost.
Fog and Mist
• How to process? – Stay away from any sharpening of the image.
• Colors may appear subdued in fog or mist.
Fog and Mist
Fog and Mist
Fog and Mist
Fog and Mist
Dew and Raindrops
• Photographing water reaches from telephoto photography to macro photography.
• At the macro end of water photography are the dew and the raindrops that hang from spider webs, petals and twigs.
• As in "regular" macro photography, it is important not to have a distracting background.
• A tripod is essential for dew and raindrop photography.
Dew and Raindrops
Dew and Raindrops
Dew and Raindrops
Dew and Raindrops
Dew and Raindrops
Frost, Snow and Ice
• Frost, snow and ice occur on many scales. – Ice can occur as glaciers or as single needles. – Snow can be photographed across a whole
landscape or as a snowflake macro. – Frost can decorate a winter window or blades of
grass.
Frost, Snow and Ice
• Exposure requires special care. – Check the exposure histogram after every shot. – It may be necessary to modify the exposure. – Bracket your exposures when there are large areas
of reflective snow and/or ice.
Frost, Snow and Ice
Frost, Snow and Ice
Frost, Snow and Ice
Frost, Snow and Ice
Frost, Snow and Ice
Steam
• Steam by itself isn't much of a picture. Place a hard feature in the photo.
• Steam often is seen near hot springs, mineral pools, volcanic craters and calderas.
• Volcanic steam can be in the form of a steady venting or it can come in spurts.
• Other "steam" pictures may occur with factory or industrial settings, locomotives, or the tea pot on your kitchen stove.
Steam
Steam
Steam
Flowing Water
• How to photograph moving water? – Do we use a fast speed and freeze the flow? – Do we let the water run for a bit and keep the
shutter open longer?
• Shutter speed and f-stop are interdependent functions. – If we want maximum sharpness through a
considerable depth of the image, we require a small aperture.
Flowing Water
• Now that the f-stop is chosen, in order to achieve the correct exposure: – We can use a slow shutter speed with a low ISO. – Or a higher shutter speed with a higher ISO.
• Shakespeare said it first: "To tripod or not to tripod? That is the question." – For slow shutter speeds, use a tripod. – For precise composition, use a tripod. – When in doubt, use a tripod.
Flowing Water – Composition
• Consider including an immovable element, such as a boulder, with the flowing water. – The presence of the fixed subject enhances the
sensation of water movement.
• Focus on smaller details to create an abstract pattern picture.
• Remain open minded. Be prepared to be influenced by what lies in front of you.
Flowing Water – Composition
Flowing Water – Composition
Flowing Water – Light
• The nature of light on water. – When light plays on the water, another dimension is
added. – Light may be reflected from or transmitted through
water. – Light can bring extra life to droplets in splashing water. – The best lighting is with an overcast sky rather than
bright sunshine. – A circular polarizing (CP) filter can reduce unwanted
bright reflections.
Flowing Water – Light
• The time of day. – A low light angle of light casts heavy shadows that
can dominate an image. – A low angled morning or late afternoon sun can
help to pick out the details of patterns created by the flowing water.
– Bright light reflecting from water can make correct exposure tricky.
– Bracket by taking shots one stop on either side of your camera's exposure reading.
Still Water – Flat Light
Flowing Water – Strong Light
Flowing Water – Perspective
• Your mind has to be like a zoom lens and search for a good flowing water picture.
• Be prepared to view water either as whole (a wide angle view) or in part (a telephoto view).
• Spend time looking at the wider view for images that show the power or strength of the flowing water.
Flowing Water – Perspective
• Seek a view where water spans the bottom edge of the frame.
• Rivers and streams are long and thin. – A vertical format takes advantage of this. – Important when looking up or down the river. – A vertical format fills the frame with water.
• No matter what you decide, use a tripod to aid in composition.
Flowing Water – Perspective
Flowing Water – Perspective
Flowing Water – Details
• Strong images are often found by looking at details.
• One of the best locations for flowing water detail is at the upper end of a set of rapids where turbulence begins and rocks start to be exposed.
• Use your mental ability to zoom in and look for details in the moving water.
Flowing Water – Patterns
• Patterns are created by three elements. – The flow of the water – The disposition of rocks or solid objects – The nature of the water splash
• Concentrate on the patterns and interplay among these three elements.
Flowing Water – Details and Patterns
Flowing Water – Details and Patterns
Flowing Water – Shutter Speed
• Another important factor in photographing flowing water is the shutter speed. – Short exposures (shorter than 1/250 sec) freeze
the movement of the water. – Longer exposures (1/2 to 1/30 sec) provide a
sense of movement and motion of the water. – Extremely long exposures (over 2 sec) smooth the
flow of water and may provide unexpected beauty.
Flowing Water – Shutter Speed
• A slow shutter speed records patterns of water flow that are much harder to see with the unaided eye. These patterns record the dynamics of water flow.
• With long exposures, the need for a tripod is obvious.
• With short exposure times, use a tripod to frame the composition exactly as you want it.
Flowing Water – Shutter Speed
8 sec 2 sec 1/8 sec
1/30 sec 1/500 sec 1/4000 sec
Flowing Water – Shutter Speed
25 sec 2.5 sec 1/4 sec
1/40 sec 1/400 sec 1/4000 sec
Flowing Water – Shutter Speed
1/50 sec 1/160 sec
1/250 sec 1/320 sec
Falling Water
• As beautiful as waterfalls are, it is not easy to capture that beauty with a camera.
• Consider using the vertical format when the waterfall is taller (longer) than it is wide.
• It is easy to take pictures of waterfalls; it is not so easy to produce powerful images.
Falling Water
• Much of the advice for photographing flowing water is relevant to falling water. – Search for the power of falling water. – Find small details and patterns in falling water. – Experiment with shutter speed. – Look at the light and its interplay with the falling
water. – Waterfalls do not photograph well in bright, sunny
weather. – Look for an overcast day to photograph waterfalls.
Falling Water – Power
Falling Water – Power or Perspective?
Falling Water – Perspective
Falling Water – Challenges
• Mist – Powerful waterfalls drop huge amounts of water. – An overcast day may produce fog, drizzle, or rain. – The wind blows all this moisture directly onto my lens.
• Bubble Level – The human eye cannot tell if a camera is perfectly
level. – A hot shoe bubble level verifies that the camera is
level. – Simply center the bubble between the lines.
Bubble Level
Falling Water – Challenges
• Tripod – The nature of waterfalls is the movement of the water. – This requires slow shutter speeds. – A handheld camera will not produce clear images.
• Circular Polarizing (CP) filter – Rocks and vegetation near the waterfall will be wet. – Wet objects tend to produce glare, which often is
polarized. – A CP filter can remove glare. – With reduced glare, the color saturation improves.
Falling Water – Challenges
• White Balance – In overcast or rainy conditions, the light may have
a blue tint. – If the waterfall is in a forest, the light may pick up
a green tint. – Neither auto white balance nor one of the preset
white balance options on a camera will guarantee accurate white balance.
– Either perform a manual white balance (using a grey card) or shoot RAW.
Falling Water – White Balance
Cloudy, overcast day WB = AUTO
Cloudy, overcast day WB = CLOUDY
46mm 1/125 sec
f/7.1 ISO 400
Falling Water – Exposure
• Getting the right exposure can be a challenge. • It is easy to clip the highlights in the water.
– The detail in the water is lost, and the water becomes just a big area of pure white.
– When this happens, the falling water doesn't look real. • Solution: Take a test shot of the waterfall and check the
histogram on the monitor of your digital camera. – If the histogram is cut off on the right side, the highlights
have been clipped. – If this is the case, the exposure needs to be decreased.
Falling Water – Correct Exposure
Water blown out 85mm 1.3 sec
f/22 ISO 100
Water not blown out 85mm
1/50 sec f/5
ISO 100
Falling Water – Composition
• A strong composition can create powerful waterfall images.
• Curves make or break a waterfall image. • Graceful curves add elegance. • There are two important types of curves.
– The curve formed by the water. Waterfalls that curve create more interest than water that falls straight down.
– Any curved object that points toward the waterfall. This directs attention to the waterfall and strengthens it as the center of interest.
Falling Water – Composition
• Consider the environment surrounding the waterfall. – By itself, falling water is not always interesting. – The surrounding environment gives waterfalls
much of their character. – Include some of that environment to bring out the
waterfall's character. – The rocks, trees, and vegetation can make the
waterfall image come alive.
Falling Water – Curves
Falling Water – Curves
Falling Water – Environment
Falling Water – Environment
Falling Water – Environment
Falling Water – Shutter Speed
• What shutter speed should be used? • The proper shutter speed is a function of five
factors. – The amount of blur desired – The volume of water – The speed of the water – The distance between camera and water – The direction of water flow with respect to the
lens
Falling Water – Shutter Speed
• It is easy to find the best shutter speed using a digital camera. – Take test shots at different shutter speeds and
examine the results. • Zoom in on the camera's monitor to see the
water detail. – For large waterfalls with huge volumes of tumultuous
water, 1/100 second captures the power of the falling water.
– For smaller waterfalls, waterfalls with less water, or where it is desired to produce a silky or dreamy look, try 1/2 second to 2 seconds.
Falling Water – Shutter Speed
1/250 sec 1/40 sec 1/20 sec
Breaking Water
• Any close-up picture of a breaking wave is a matter of timing. – Consider shooting on "continuous" as the wave
advances. Choose the best image later. – With a wider view of a stretch of beach, timing
becomes easier.
• The other guidelines for details, light, shutter speed, highlight clipping, etc still apply.
Breaking Water
Breaking Water
Breaking Water
Still Water
• Still, calm water implies "peace" and our photographs need to pick up that theme.
• Incorporate a sharp reflection to reveal the stillness. – This could be the sky or some other objects near
the water. – Use a CP filter when reflections are unwanted.
Still Water
• Vertical Symmetry – Place the horizon across the center of the image. – The proportion of sky and water should be
approximately equal. – This means the reflection is as important as the
image. – Because the sky is brighter than the reflection,
photographing reflections may require the use of a split neutral density (split ND) filter.
Split ND filter
Still Water
Still Water
Still Water
Still Water
Still Water
Still Water
Still Water
Still Water
Still Water – Reflection Control
Still Water – Reflection Control
Pictorial Water Images
• Pictorial images may be of the natural landscape or they may involve human intervention or activity in some way. – Water fountains are one example where mankind has
had a significant role in what we see. – We can record fountains in their setting or we can
concentrate on the way the water moves over and around the fountain.
– Other human artifacts include dams, bridges, docks, locks, water mills, garden ponds, canals, castle moats, harbors, beaches, etc.
Pictorial Water Images
• Pictorial images of water are documentary images that make the statement "here is how something looked."
• The principles and methods of pictorial water photography are the same as those described earlier.
Pictorial Water Images
Pictorial Water Images
Pictorial Water Images
Pictorial Water Images
Pictorial Water Images
Pictorial Water Images
Abstract Water Images
• Abstract photography is based on the photographer's eye, looking to capture something in a way that it would not usually be seen. – Look for details, patterns, lines, forms, shapes and
colors that complete a subject; use these features to make an engaging image.
– Form, color, and curves elicit strong reactions from the human perceptual system.
– Abstract photography communicates primarily through the viewer's emotions.
Abstract Water Images
• How to? – Move your feet, bend your knees, look up, look down;
step back and look for shapes, patterns and colors; get in close and find the details.
• What and how do you perceive what is in front of you? – Then make your image represent it as you see it.
• The principles and methods of abstract water photography are the same as those described earlier.
Abstract Water Images
Abstract Water Images
Abstract Water Images
Abstract Water Images
Pictorial or Abstract?
Suggested Camera Bag Items
• Here is a short list of important things to keep in your camera bag when photographing water. – Tripod. A tripod is your best friend. It allows you to
compose your scene very precisely and give you the flexibility to shoot long exposures.
– Circular polarizing (CP) filter . This is an essential piece of equipment. It allows you to remove reflections and glare from the water's surface. It removes reflections and allows you to see any interesting things underneath the surface.
Suggested Camera Bag Items
– Neutral density (ND) filter. If you decide to shoot a long exposure and it happens to be the middle of the day when there is a lot of light, you will need this gray-tinted piece of glass placed in front of your lens. It blocks some of the light from hitting your sensor, allowing you to use a slower shutter speed.
– Lens cloth. This is useful for cleaning water spray off of your lens or filter. A piece of ShamWow can be used for absorbing water drops. ShamWow is helpful for cleaning water off the rest of your camera and your tripod legs.
ND filter
Camera Settings – Silky Water
• To create that silky smooth blur, you'll want to use a slow shutter speed for a long exposure. With your camera mounted firmly on a tripod, set it to shutter priority mode (usually "S" or "Tv" on your camera's mode dial) and set your ISO as low as it will go (usually 100). Then, select a shutter speed between one half second to four seconds to achieve a nice amount of blur. Use an ND filter as needed.
Camera Settings – Silky Water
• Experiment with different shutter speeds to get the amount of blur you want. Getting the shutter speed just right takes experimentation. If you cannot get a slow enough shutter speed for the effect you want, use a smaller aperture so that less light enters the camera. If you still need to reduce the amount of light, use your ND filter.
• When using a long shutter speed, if there are any plants or trees in your frame they may move if there is any wind, and then they will be blurry. It is often better to photograph early in the day when there is little or no wind.
Camera Settings – Freezing Motion
• When photographing rapidly moving water, use a fast shutter speed to suspend the water's movement in the air. Use shutter priority mode and select 1/500th of a second or faster.
• If you are in a low light situation, you may need to use a larger aperture such as f/4 or f/3.5 to let in more light. You may need to increase the ISO to 200, 400 or as high as you need to go to allow a fast shutter speed.
Detail Shots
• Instead of a broad landscape, you might want to close in on an interesting rock, plant, or other detail of your scene. – Compose your shot (using a tripod) and turn your
camera to aperture priority mode – "A" or "Av" on your camera's mode dial.
– This allows you to have control over the depth of field, or how much of the picture is in focus from front to back.
– Small apertures let in less light, but they increase the sharpness in the foreground and background.
Detail Shots
– Large (or "wide") apertures, on the other hand, mean that only part of the picture is in focus, while the rest becomes soft and out of focus.
– If you want to isolate your main subject, choose a large aperture (small f/number) such as f/4 or f/2.8 to make the background out of focus.
– If the background is important to the picture, choose a small aperture (large f/number) like f/16 or f/22 to make the entire scene sharp and clear.
Composition
• There are many compositional techniques to employ when creating water images. – Remember the rule of thirds and how your eye is
drawn through the image. – Use the leading lines and curves found in flowing
water as visual pathways for the viewer to follow. – Corners are very strong entry and exit points in the
frame. – Pay attention to the foreground and background. – Don't forget to pay attention to what's around the
water, as well as the water itself.
Closing Thoughts
• When you arrive at any scene, ask yourself, "What makes this place unique?" Pay special attention to that uniqueness quality.
• Take several pictures using different apertures and shutter speeds.
• Bracket your shots to make sure you get the best possible exposure. Make several different images using the camera's exposure compensation (+/-) to brighten or darken each shot to a different degree.
Closing Thoughts
• Making your images in the RAW format allows for more flexible fine tuning in post processing. RAW images must be processed with a compatible photo editing program, or software that was included with your camera.
• Experiment, don't get stuck making the same type of photograph all the time. Try to make a long exposure, a fast exposure, some detail shots, and try different perspectives so you come home with a variety of images from your photo outing.
Summary
• Water can exist in solid, liquid, or vapor states. • Water can occur in a variety of forms (calm,
turbulent, flowing, falling, breaking, splashing). • The form in which water occurs (moving or static)
determines the approach photographing water. – Photograph static water using the same techniques as
used for landscape or macro photography. – Moving water requires special attention regarding
shutter speed.
Summary
• Keep it simple. Don't clutter your picture. • Carefully choose your perspective (angle of view) to
reveal the nature of the water. • A circular polarizing (CP) filter can darken the sky,
saturate colors, or control reflections. • Bracket exposures when photographing clouds, snow
or ice. • Look for flowing water patterns, interplay with exposed
rocks, and any water splash. • Start with a general view and move in until you get to
the level of the real detail.
Summary
• Light falling on the water's surface can add a significant dimension to the image.
• A bright but overcast sky provides lighting conditions with fewer exposure difficulties.
• Use your camera in portrait (vertical) format if your subject warrants it.
• Still water implies peace and calm. A sharp reflection reinforces that theme.
• Very long shutter speeds remove ripples on the water's surface and render it smoother.
Summary
• Any questions?
• The slide set is posted on the meetup site and includes nine pages of links about the topics discussed in this presentation.
• The links should lead you to a variety of websites full of thoughts and ideas to get your water photography started.
Some Waterfall Photography Links
• http://digital-photography-school.com/waterfall-digital-photography
• http://digital-photography-school.com/falling-for-waterfalls
• http://digital-photography-school.com/4-tips-for-shooting-drop-dead-gorgeous-waterfalls
• http://digital-photography-school.com/photographing-waterfalls-6-tips-to-get-your-started
• http://digital-photography-school.com/picking-a-waterfall-shutter-speed-for-the-best-look
Some CPL and ND Filter Links
• http://www.cambridgeincolour.com/tutorials/camera-lens-filters.htm
• http://www.cambridgeincolour.com/tutorials/polarizing-filters.htm
• http://digital-photography-school.com/landscape-photography-essentials
• http://digital-photography-school.com/introduction-to-filters-for-dslrs
• http://digital-photography-school.com/how-to-use-and-buy-polarizing-filters
Some CPL and ND Filter Links
• http://ericleslie.com/blog/how-to-use-a-circular-polarizer-cpl
• http://singhray.blogspot.com/2010/01/seven-rules-for-effectively-using.html
• http://digital-photography-school.com/neutral-density-filters
• http://digital-photography-school.com/nd-filters-everything-you-need-to-know
• http://digital-photography-school.com/the-benefits-of-a-reverse-gradient-neutral-density-filter
Some Beach and Ocean Links
• http://digital-photography-school.com/10-beach-photography-tips
• http://digital-photography-school.com/day-beach-photographing-seaside-landscapes
• http://digital-photography-school.com/beach-photography
• http://digital-photography-school.com/5-quick-tips-for-coastal-photography
• http://digital-photography-school.com/seascape-photography-tips
• http://digital-photography-school.com/composing-dynamic-landscape-images
Some Reflection Links
• http://digital-photography-school.com/how-to-photograph-reflections-in-water
• http://www.lightstalking.com/how-to-photograph-reflections-for-awesome-results
• http://photography.tutsplus.com/articles/100-creative-examples-of-reflections-in-photography--photo-6722
• http://digital-photography-school.com/27-resplendent-reflections-images-to-inspire-you
• http://digital-photography-school.com/20-effective-reflection-photos
Some Long Exposure Links
• http://digital-photography-school.com/surreal-landscape-long-exposure-photography
• http://digital-photography-school.com/long-exposure-photography
• http://digital-photography-school.com/8-tips-for-long-exposure-photography
• http://500px.com/blog/650/photo-tutorial-long-exposure-photography
Some Snow Photography Links
• http://digital-photography-school.com/how-to-photograph-snowflakes-with-a-dslr
• http://digital-photography-school.com/5-uncommon-snow-photography-tips-that-can-transform-your-winter-scenes
• http://digital-photography-school.com/why-is-the-snow-in-my-pictures-so-blue
• http://digital-photography-school.com/25-special-snow-fall-images
• http://digital-photography-school.com/how-to-stay-motivated-to-photograph-nature-after-months-in-the-snow-and-cold
Some Bad Weather Photo Links
• http://www.cambridgeincolour.com/tutorials/fog-photography.htm
• http://digital-photography-school.com/rainy-day-image
• http://digital-photography-school.com/13-fabulous-photos-of-a-rainy-day
• http://digital-photography-school.com/cloudy-rain-photography
Some Bad Weather Photo Links
• http://digital-photography-school.com/how-to-photograph-a-rainbow
• http://digital-photography-school.com/embrace-the-weather-with-your-photography-part-1
• http://digital-photography-school.com/embrace-the-weather-part-2
• http://digital-photography-school.com/the-6-challenges-for-photographers-to-making-the-best-of-bad-weather