Download - Portfolio Remco Zeck (English)
MEN’S COLLECTION
WOMENS COLLECTION
Style:
SIZE
1st
proto
size s
size s size m size l size xl
Body Length from h.s.p. 67 67 69 71 73
Body Length in C.B. from trim 66 66 68 70 72
Gauge/ Knit: 1/2 Chest 1.5cm under armpit 49 49 51 53 56
1/2 waist 25cm from bottom edge 46 46 48 50 53
Haberdashery: Use silver YKK zipper size no. 3 with 2 closing 1/2 Bottom width 37 36 38 40 42
mechanisms. Zip slider as picture beneath. 1/2 Armhole 23 22 23 24 25
Puller type: DADR7. Picture beneath 1/2 bicep 17,5 17,5 18,5 19,5 21
shoulder to shoulder 42 39 40,5 42 43,5
sleevelength from shoulder 64,5 65 66 67,5 69
1/2 Sleeve opening at edge 8 7,5 7,5 8 8,5
1/2 cuff at top of rib 8 8 8 8,5 9
Neck Width seam to seam 23 21 21 21 21,5
Front neckdrop 11,5 11,5 11,5 11,5 12
Back neckdrop 1 1 1 1 1
Hight capuchon 36 36 36 36 36
1/2 width capuchon 28 28 28 28 28
Cuff trim: 2x2 rib 8 8 8 8 8
Bottom trim: 2x2 rib 8 8 8 8 8
Cardigan capuchon
M-AW14-CA26
Yarn: 80% Lambswool / 20% Nylon
12 GG, Single jersey
Comments 1st proto:* Pls follow revised measurements in size spec* Make zipper tape invisible through stitching the full needle tape along the edge to collar. See picture.* Make capuchon more rounded shape, see pins on proto* Shoulder to shoulder to 39 cm in size Small* Neckwidth seam to seam to 21 cm in size Small* Place flag-label 12 cm from bottom inside sideseam; see picture
Colourway:#UN-DN-12134 Color zip tape: #Black Sizes: S= 2 M= 2 L= 2 XL= 2 #UN-DN-12115 Color zip tape: #Black Sizes: S= 2 M= 2 L= 2 XL= 2 #UN-DN-12168 Color zip tape: #Black Sizes: S= 2 M= 2 L= 2 XL= 2
Total pieces: 24
Flacq Men's developments
Place flag label (FF)
12 cm from bottom
Zipper runs into
capuchon
Make capuchon
more round, see
pins on proto
Flacq Men's developmentsFront
a: Front neckdrop = 11,5 cm
b: Hight capuchon = 36 cm
c: 1/2 width capuchon = 28
cm
Capuchon unfolded
b
a
Zipper runs into the capuchon
c
Make capuchon more round, see pins
Back
Style:
SIZE
size s1st proto
size msize m size l
Body Length from h.p.sh. 56,5 58,5 58 59,5
Body Length in C.B. from trim 55 57 56,5 58
Gauge/ Knit: 1/2 Chest 1.5cm under armpit 44 47 46 48
1/2 waist 36 cm from h.s.p. 41 45 43 45
Haberdashery: Buttons will be delivered by manufacturer, see below 1/2 Bottom width 46 49 48 50
Attach spare button to care label 1/2 Armhole 19 20 20 21
1/2 bicep 14 16 15 16
shoulder to shoulder 36 36 37 38
sleevelength from h.s.p. 57 58 58 59
1/2 Sleeve opening at edge 9 9,5 9,5 9,5
Neck Width seam to seam 18 18,5 18 18,5
Front neckdrop 12 12 12 12
Back neckdrop 1,5 1,5 1,5 1,5
Necktrim height 9 9 9 9
Height closure 44,5 46,5 46 47,5
Distance closure-armhole 19 20 20 21
Width under rever 5 4,5 5 5
Height upper rever 6 5,5 6 6
Distance button-bottom 19,2 18,8 20 20,8
Colbert reverse women
W-AW13-CO01
Yarn: 80% Lambswool / 20% Nylon
7 GG, Single jersey reverse
Comments 1st proto:* Pls follow revised measurements in size spec* Pls make distance button hole - closure smaller -> to 1,5 cm; see pic.* Whole jacket in 7 GG single jersey reverse is ok. Collar and revers double layer is ok* Press the revers just above the button* Horizontal button hole* Pls make rounded shape from lowest button to bottom; avoid the pointed shape* Place flag-label 12 cm from bottom inside sideseam; see picture
Colourway:#UN-DN-12169 Button: OCU-114, col. 09, 20 mm Sizes: S= 2 M= 2 L= 2 #UN-DN-12115 Button: OCU-114, col. 09, 20 mm Sizes: S= 2 M= 3 L= 2 #UN-DN-12154 Button: OCU-W015, col. 58, 20 mm Sizes: S= 2 M= 2 L= 2
Total pieces: 19
Flacq Women's developments
Place flag label
(FF) 12 cm from
bottom
Make collar and revers
double layer; see dotted
line, about 9 cm from
closure
Make rounded
corners at bottom
Flacq Women's developments
a
b
Make rounded
corners at bottom
Make collar and revers double layer;
see dotted line. About 9 cm from
closure.
9 cm
a: Height closure= 44,5 cm
b: Distance closure - armhole = 19 cm
c: Width under rever = 5 cm
d: Height upper rever = 6 cm
e: Heigth necktrim = 9 cm
Based on a size Small
e
dc
The Store
Portfolio R.Zeck
Through a mini-portfolio, I would like to explain my work within my own company (from September
2009 to March 2015) and how I possibly can be an asset to your organization.
Career Flacq
After graduation from the AMFI in 2009 my partner and I set up our own brand named Flacq. (Flacq
is a region in Mauritius where we have done an internship during the AMFI. There we have written a
strategic plan for a local clothing brand.) Flacq as a brand name we found short and catchy.
Minimalism, high quality, clean and timeless was central to our designs. We started with a men's
collection. The choice for men was not difficult, because we saw more opportunities in menswear.
At a later stage, a women’s line was added, because women already bought designs from the men's
collection. Thereby women shop more frequently than men.
We also chose to concentrate on flat knit, because no patterns are needed, and this was cost saving.
With knitwear you can distinguish yourself eminently as a brand and design as extreme as you
like; from fine to rough, from fitted to oversized, from acrylic to cashmere and from single jersey to
the most complicated stitch. The ability to stand out and create a personal brand identity makes
knitwear very interesting. Without any experience we designed the collection together, we made
stylesheets (technical drawings in Canvas together with the size specifications in Excel).
It was crucial to find a manufacturer who could supply the expected quality, had a short delivery time
and most important for us; no minimum quantities. And we found one; a manufacturer in China, a
small family business with about twenty employees. He was flexible, delivered high quality and he
did not require minimum quantities. After some samples, we started with the production of several
designs that we sold in our e-store. The e-store, which I had built myself, was created with Magento.
ICT is a hobby I have and I learned this software by myself.
Using social media the brand awareness grew and customers were excited about our products. There
was a need for quality sweaters with clean design. We found out only online sales was not enough to
expose our designs. Customers had to experience Flacq and get the ability to feel the fabrics. With
this theory in mind, we were going to focus on the wholesale. We have approached many shops
during winter 2011. A retailer in Nijmegen with two stores was interested in one design and the first
order was a fact. Through him we ended up at four other stores and we sold also some other designs,
but from the most popular item we sold around 750 pieces in one season.
In early 2012 we noticed the downturn in the retail and after several approaches to our existing retail
customers they were not interested anymore and stick to the brands they are familiar with. This was
incredibly frustrating. After all, they had sold our products very well. We stood fully behind our vision
and products and decided to open our own store. A business plan was written and after we have
submitted to various banks we were successful; we got a loan.
In September 2012 we opened our store (50 sqm) in Haarlem. I quit my job at Hugo Boss and I took
responsibility for the store, the e-shop and wholesale. The development and implementation of
collections was made in consultation, but most tasks were my responsibility. Also I maintained
contact with the manufacturer in China.
On average, we had 30 styles in store, each in two or three colors. Initially, from each style per color
twelve pieces were produced. We noticed the shop was somewhat inaccessible and we tried to
increase the number of visitors. The people who came in often bought a piece and usually they
revisited the store. Customers were enthusiastic about the quality and found it interesting we
explained about the product and its development. However, the low number of visitors continued to
be a problem.
The retail prices for summer styles lay between € 80, - and € 140, - and jackets around the € 200, -.
The retail prices for winter styles were significantly higher, because of the use of more luxurious
fabrics. A sweater cost between € 120, - and € 180, - and the price of a woolen jacket was around
€ 250, -. The markup was usually between four and five.
During the selling season retailers were approached, but there was still no need for a new brand.
Retailers were very reserved, partly because of the recession. We took part in the Modefabriek, but
unfortunately without any success. Perhaps Flacq did not belong on this fair; the Modefabriek is
quite commercial and conservative.
After about eighteen months the turnover was drastically declining during the regular selling season
whereby we hardly had any budget for the production of the next season. We could not pay our fixed
costs anymore, so debts got higher and collections came in later. Our last collection was delivered
during sale and our markup almost completely disappeared. Since we saw no future in the store
anymore, we decided to declare ourselves bankrupt on March 3, 2015.
Review
It has been one year since Flacq is declared bankrupt. I still think the brand could have been a
success. I believe, there are several reasons why the store could not succeed. In particular, the
location has played a major role; our target group was hardly presented in the street the store was
located. Our high segmented products in terms of price and quality had probably sold better at
another location. Furthermore, it was disappointing the Dutch man is quite conservative in terms of
fashion. Our designs were minimalistic, but often with a twist; a jacket with an asymmetrical zipper
or a large collar they found already extreme. Our collections were distinctive, yet it is partly for this
reason the store failed at that location. Maybe a shop in Amsterdam was a better choice, because
tourists often were very excited.
Possibly, we had to focus more on the foreign market, where people are more willing to pay for
design and luxurious fabrics.