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Pruning Ornamental
Shrubs1
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Reasons for Pruning:1. Remove dead or diseased wood2. Eliminate structural problems
(e.g. crossing branches)
3. Eliminate hazards (e.g. pedestrian conflicts)
4. Improve flower display5. Increase light levels in interior6. Reduce plant size7. Aesthetics (shaping)
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Major considerations:
1.HOW does the shrub grow? (does it have a main trunk or is it a cane producing plant with multiple trunks)
2. WHEN does the shrub flower? (does it bloom in the spring, summer or fall)
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Fit the pruning shears to the job.
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Prune based on shrub habit.How does the plant grow?
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Cane producing shrubs benefit from rejuvenation pruning
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Cane Producing Shrubs
MockorangeForsythiaRedtwig dogwoodBigleaf hydrangeaJapanese KerriaSpiraea
DeutziaFlowering quinceNandinaIteaAbeliaButterfly bush
(plant rejuvenates readily from the ground)
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Cane producing shrubs respond well to renewal
pruning. Renewal pruning rejuvenates the plant and typically results in better flowering and fruiting.
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Renewal pruning involves removing the largest branches or canes at the ground line.
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Do not leaves stubs, and, generally don’t remove more than 1/3 of ‘canes’ at any one time.
J.Robbins 2002 -11
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Renewal pruning
Before AfterJ.Robbins 2002 -12
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Shrubs that lend themselves to selective thinning.
ViburnumsCleyeraRose-of-Sharon/AltheaLigustrum
AzaleaRhododendronHolliesJapanese Maples
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Selective thinning involves cutting back to a lateral branch or to the bud. Selective thinning can reduce
the plant size while maintaining a natural habit.
J.Robbins 2002 -14
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Shearing
More formal, and, once you start, difficult to break-out of habit.
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Shearing typically requires different tools.
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Formal Pruning
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J.Robbins 2002 -17
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For Crape myrtles:
1. Choose the right plant for the right spotGreat variability on plant size.
Ground covers to trees.2. Don’t try to make a tree-type into a small
shrub using radical pruning techniques.3. When you prune, use selective thinning, or,
remove entire branches/canes to the ground rather than heading back every year to the same (ugly) stubs.
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When to prune flowering shrubs:
Spring bloomers set flowers on older wood*Normally set flower buds in late summer or
early fall.
Summer bloomers usually bloom on the current seasons growth.
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Plants that flower on ‘old’ wood (flower buds are formed in the late summer/fall, carried
through the winter, and then flower in spring)
forsythia
Big leaf hydrangea Oakleaf hydrangea
Spring spiraea Flowering quince
azalea
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Plants that flower on ‘old’ wood
Prune AFTER flowering !
AzaleaForsythiaRedbudFlowering quinceHoneysuckle, winterMagnoliaMockorange
FringetreeSpiraea (Bridalwreath & Vanhoutte)
LilacHydrangea (Bigleaf & Oakleaf)
RhododendronViburnumWeigela
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Plants that flower on ‘new’ wood (flower buds are formed on current season growth)
Summer spiraea Buddleia
Crape myrtle
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Plants that flower on ‘new’ wood
Prune BEFORE new growth begins !(usually done in late February)
AbeliaRose-of-SharonButterfly bushClethraSumac
Crape myrtleRosesSpiraea (summer flowering types)
VitexHydrangea (Panicle or Smooth)
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Exceptions to the Rule:
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Hydrangea problems
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Hydrid Tea Roses
Cut back to 8-18” in early spring. Prefer cutting back to an outward facing bud.
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Hydrid Tea Roses
Inward pointing bud
Outward pointing bud
Outward pointing bud
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Climbing Roses
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Ornamental Grasses
Remember that the growing point for grasses is near the ground and that once we are past winter and have enjoyed the grass foliage and seedheads, we can/should cut grasses back. In the case of large grasses like pampass and fountain grass we may only be able to cut back to 12-18”.
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Ornamental Grasses
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Prune only if you know why.
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Correct problems while the plant is young.
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No pruning paint needed! Make nice clean cuts.
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Summary
Know when flowering plants bloom to determine timing of pruning.
Are they cane producing plants or not. Evergreen plants grown just for foliage can be
shaped at any time. Severe pruning should be done in the spring for
faster recovery.
Know rules for special cases.