Download - Saree and Silk Brocade PDF
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Sarees
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<--Bengali Jamdani cotton muslin saree Vaishnavite brahmins saree is worn in Kachchha style in Karnataka and Tamil Nadu
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<-- Deccan Kachchha style saree worn in Maharashtra with a ‘khan’ blouse. Gold Kinkhab wedding saree worn by a bride in Banaras
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Tribal women in Bihar wearing Sidha style paria saree
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Khasi women wearing jainkyrshah
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A wealthy khasi woman wearing a two piece dhara
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Silk Brocades • Varanasi in Uttar Pradesh
• Surat and Rajkot in Gujarat
• Kanjeepuram, Tirubhuvanam, Kumbhkonam in Tamil Nadu.
• Paithan and Yevla in Maharashtra
• Narayanpet, Dharmavaram, Mysore, Bangalore in Andhra Pradesh
• Murshidabad in West Bengal
• Sualkuchi in Assam
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Cotton –Silk Brocades
• Chanderi, Maheshwar in Madhya Pradesh
• Gadwal in Andhra Pradesh
• Kota in Rajasthan
Cotton Brocades • Mangalgiri , Uppada in AndhraPradesh
• Phulia, Shantipur, Dhonekhali in West Bengal
• Salem, Coimbatore in Tamil Nadu
• Kozikode in Kerala
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• Bananas is the undisputed centre of India's zari figured-silk
weaving industry.
• Its figured silks are called brocades in India although
technically they can be classified as both brocades (fabric with
discontinuous supplementary-weft patterning) and lampas
(figured silks with at least two warps and / or two wefts).
• Brocade weavers are almost exclusively Muslim ,belonging to
the Julaha community, although they prefer to call
themselves ‘Ansari’ meaning weavers.
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Odhani, Banaras, 19th C Rangkat technique, Ari jhari, carrie, konia buti and broad
plain gold chaudani.
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Dupatta, Banaras, 20th C Chrysanthemum buta
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Carrie buta, Banaras
Ganga-Jamuni
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Square kerchief, dorukha,
Banaras, 20th C
Chashme bulbul
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Odhani, Banaras,20th C, Satrangi in rangkat technique
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Yardage, ari jhari, Banaras, 19th C
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Latifa buta, Banaras,19th C ganga- jamuni zari
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Yardage, Banaras, 18th-19th C Ganga-jamuni zari and minakari
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• The designs are usually extremely fine and delicate.
• Most of the brocade usually have strong Mughal design influences, such as intricate intertwining floral and foliate motifs, kalga, bel and Shikargah pattern.
• A characteristic motif found along the inner and sometimes
outer edges of borders is a narrow fringe-like pattern that
often looks like a string of upright leaves, called a jhaalar.
• Banaras brocade motifs are densely patterned and look three
– dimensional, quite unlike the static, two dimensional quality
of Deccan and south Indian brocades.
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Fabrics for yardage
Minakari buti
Paan and carrie buta
Carrie buta
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Kinkhab- heavy gilt brocade with considerably more zari visible
than underlying silk. They are commonly worn as wedding
saris.
Bafta- These are classic brocaded saris associated with 20th
century Banaras, and unlike kinkhab have considerably less
zari with more silk fabric showing.
Abrawan_Like the Dhaka muslins, the pattern vary from barely
noticeable additions to extensive supplementary threads
which create the patterns in tone on tone or contrasting
colors, resulting in a transparent cloth that at first glance looks
lightly printed rather than woven.
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Ramnami Dupatta,
19th C
Devnagri script and
God’s feet
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Amru brocade
• The supplementary – weft patterning of these brocade is woven in silk, not in zari thread.
• The threads may be either untwisted, giving a thick line to the woven design, or they may be made of twisted yarns that produce a finer,denser pattern.
Tanchoi
• This is a figured silk that is technically related to complex weaves like the lampas because it has one or two warps and two to fine weft colors often in the same shed.
• This brocades originated from china ,initially being part of the 19th century parsi trade between Indian, china and England.
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Tanchoi Saree
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Choga, Banaras, 20th C Zari kalga and shikargah pattern
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Shikargah pattern, sari, Banaras,20th C Floral jaal in the field
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Shikargah Border
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Cutwork brocade
• The transparent silk fabric has supplementary-weft patterning woven in heavier, thicker fibers than the ground.
• Silk, zari, synthetic fibers and sometimes even wool may be used to create the supplementary-weft designs, but instead of each motif being separately woven in by hand as a discontinuous weft, the thread extend the entire width of the fabric, leaving floats at the back that are cut away by hand after weaving.
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Contemporary Brocades
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Contemporary Brocades
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Contemporary Brocades
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Square veil, Gujarat, 19th C Devnagri script ‘Saheb
Kunwar Bai Saheb’
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Gharchola format in brocade
Gujarat, 19th C
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Pichwai, Gujarat, 19th C
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Himru Brocades, Murshidabad,19thC
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Baluchari sari,
Murshidabad, Bengal,
19th C
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Kinkhab
brocade,minakari,
Banaras,19th C
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Sari, Paithan, Maharashtra,19th C
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