“ A fallen leaf is nothing more than a summer’s wave
goodbye.” ~Unknown
As I write this, the temperature forecast says it will top out at
96 degrees this afternoon. It sure does not feel like fall will be
here soon. According to the National Weather Service, we
should expect above average rainfall. Be on the lookout for
signs of stress due to waterlogged soils. It looks very similar
to drought stress because under waterlogged conditions, roots
stop working, leading to the wilting of foliage. On a good
note, it is time to prepare for the fall garden. If you are not
familiar with our gardening seasons, the spring and fall
(avoiding summer heat) are the most productive.
Finally, be on the lookout for our annual New Leaf Survey. It
will be sent out a few days after this newsletter.
In this Issue
For more information contact: UF/IFAS Extension Duval County
Larry Figart [email protected] (904) 255-7450
Extension Update by Larry Figart Volume 2, Issue 5 Sept-Oct 2020
What’s That?
Credit: Scott Bauer, USDA Credit: James Graham, UF/IFAS Credit: Peggy Greb, USDA
Title Page
Extension Update 1
What’s That? 1
Can’t Keep a Good Lawn Down 2
Proper Lawn Management 2
Sphaeropsis gall of Holly 3
Herbs in the Fall Garden 4
Cultivating Compost 5
What to Plant 6
Sept/Oct online classes 6
What’s That? Answer! 6
2
Around the Yard by Chris Kerr
Can’t Keep A Good Lawn Down
As we begin to approach the dormant period, now is
the time to make sure we’re taking care of the lawn
appropriately. Making a lawn-care error now can be-
come months of that injury on display. This is be-
cause the lawn’s growth will start to slow down and
won’t have a chance to recuperate. If the lawn is left
in a weakened state, you can bet you’ll see more dis-
ease, pests and weeds. If allowed to proceed, these
will impact next spring’s green-up. In fact, this is one
of those critical times where we either put in a little
work now, or be prepared for a lot of work later.
During this fall transition, our lawns are preparing
themselves by storing up energy reserves as their col-
or fades out for the year. What should we be doing
right now? Focus on your cultural controls and scout-
ing!
Mow regularly. Remember it rains a lot this time of
year. If we’re already pushing the limits on mowing,
having to wait an extra two or three days due to
heavy rains can put some extra stress on the lawn.
Don’t mow when the grass is wet, as that will only
cause clumping, poor cuts and spread disease. If you
have a large buildup of thatch, it’s too late for any
major dethatching, but you can still do a light, 1/8”
top-dress. Consider one final light fertilization at a
1:2 ratio of N:K, but don’t add any phosphorous.
In terms of pests, keep watching for sod webworms
and fall armyworms. Populations generally start to
peak during Sept/Oct. As for diseases, be on the look
out for large-patch as it starts back for the year. As
always, so long as it remains warm, take-all root rot
will be a threat. Remember cultural controls are key
to 90% of the lawn problems encountered. A healthy
lawn can grow past these issues. See our key recom-
mendations for these months, and be careful not to
over fertilize now. A green lawn going into a frost is
not a good thing. If you have a lawn issue you need
help with, bring in a sample or reach out to the
Extension office, and we will be happy to perform
identifications and offer additional management
guidance.
Proper Lawn Management is the Key!
Fertilization
If you have been fertilizing well throughout the season, you probably don’t need to fertilize more. Remem-
ber no more than 2-4 lbs of Nitrogen for the year! If it has been a while, now is the time to give that final
application before winter. In North Florida, don’t fertilize past mid-September and remember “N-P-K”.
Make sure you are applying a fertilizer with no phosphorus (P), and the same or higher Potassium (K) than
Nitrogen (N). There are “winterizer” fertilizers out there that have a lot more nitrogen than should be
applied so don’t be fooled by their labels. Remember to dial that spreader down; if you go with a 15-0-15,
3 lbs per 1000 sq. ft. should be more than enough.
Irrigation
Irrigation needs for the lawn are always changing. As temperatures start to cool off in late September irriga-
tion needs drop as well. Adjust your irrigation events based on need and as long as you don’t see symptoms
of drought stress, start reducing irrigation to just once a week.
Preemergence Herbicide
Applying a preemergence is a great way to reduce weed pressure, but remember every herbicide application
we make injures the lawn as well...timing is critical! In early September, most of the weeds in your lawn are
warm season weeds; there isn’t much benefit in applying herbicide to those weeds at this point. Identify the
weeds present to plan controls for next spring and mow regularly to reduce seed production. To control win-
ter annual weeds, herbicides should be applied when temperatures at night are 55-60° F for several consecu-
tive days. This usually occurs in early to mid-October in North Florida. The choice of compound is based
on the lawn species and the target weeds so you’ve got to know your lawn! For more information check out
the UF/IFAS Weed Management Guide for Florida Lawns at https://edis.ifas.ufl.edu/ep141.
3
Out on a Limb by Larry Figart
Sphaeropsis Gall on Holly
Sphaeropsis Gall is nothing new to Florida. It has
always been around, just not seen as frequently in
NE Florida as it has been recently. Sphaeropsis occurs
on several different Florida ornamental plants such as
citrus, hawthorn, bottle brush, crepe myrtle, ligustrum,
and oleander. However, it can be very detrimental to
hollies. All holly species are susceptible.
Once you see sphaeropsis Gall, it will be easy to
identify. Symptoms range from inconspicuous swell-
ings of young twigs to irregular galls on older wood.
Multiple shoots arise from galled areas causing a
“witches broom” type of growth. Horizontal branches
can “tip up" to grow nearly vertically. Also, clusters of
stunted, sometimes leafless shoots or witches brooms
may be seen. Leaves on galled branches often turn
yellow and drop. Death of the stem soon follows.
Recent preliminary studies have looked at whether any
one holly species is more susceptible to Sphaeropsis.
These studies determined that Ilex crenata, Ilex ‘Mary
Nell’, and Ilex x attenuata, when inoculated with the
disease formed larger lesions. In the NE Florida land-
scape Sphaeropsis Gall has become a severe problem
on East Palatka and Savannah hollies in particular.
This makes sense because they are attenuata hybrids.
Natural or mechanical wounds in the wood allow
entry points for the organism. The disease is much
more likely to be found on a commercial site where
the trees are pruned more regularly. Pruning may
allow Sphaeropsis to spread rapidly by transferring the
fungus from tree to tree and allowing an entry point
into the plant.
There is no fungicide labeled for Sphaeropsis in Flori-
da. If caught early, one solution for an infected tree is
to prune branches at least 6 inches below where symp-
toms are seen. After cutting, look at the cut end of the
stem to see if there is any discoloration from the fun-
gal growth in the wood. If discoloration is found, the
branch should be cut back even further. Because wet,
humid conditions favor the spread of this disease,
prune during dry times, avoiding periods when rainfall
is expected 24 hours before or after pruning. Since
there is no listed fungicide, prevention is key. When
pruning hollies, using clean sterile equipment is the
best method we have at this point to slow down the
spread. After each cut, dip pruning tools in a disinfect-
ant such as 10% or rubbing alcohol before using them
on another branch or plant. Severely infected plants
should be removed and destroyed. The disease may
also be spread through infected cuttings. Take cuttings
only from known disease-free stock plants. Do not
take cuttings from a diseased holly.
Witches booming and dieback on ‘East Palatka’ Holly
Photo by Larry Figart
Sphaeropsis Galls
Photo by Larry Figart
4
Growing in the Garden by Beth Marlowe
Additional
Reading:
Herbs in the Florida
Garden. “Herbs are plants grown
for their special aromas
and flavors. They are
mainly used to season,
enrich, or otherwise
improve the taste or
smell of foods. Many
herbs are also colorful
and have interesting
textures.
Herbs are well-suited
for container culture…”
Herbs in the Fall Garden
Have your outdoor herbs been looking tired, ragged
and unhappy the last month or two? Just as we do,
many of our favorite herbs struggle with the double
whammy of high heat and humidity in late summer
and early fall. But as the worst of the heat breaks
around the end of September, we can all breathe a
little easier. Many perennial herbs will perk back up,
and with a little attention, will grow well throughout
the fall. Others, like dill and parsley, can finally be
planted outdoors when the threat of heat and tropical
rains have passed.
Perennials from the Mediterranean region—rosemary,
oregano, sage and thyme—prefer weather on the drier
side. Unglazed clay pots are perfect for these herbs
because they naturally dry out faster than plastic ones
and help ensure the herbs are not overwatered. And if
your herbs are in pots, you can move them around—
from areas with mid-day shade in the summer, to sun-
nier spots in the cool season. Fall is a good time to
check each one and trim out any diseased or dead
branches, making the plant healthier and increasing
air flow through it. Scout for insects and treat if
necessary. Fertilize lightly and move to a bigger pot if
the plant is becoming root bound. Trim leaves as
needed for culinary use but be careful not to harvest
more than one third of the plant’s leaves at a time.
Many cool season herbs, such as cilantro/coriander,
dill, fennel and parsley, are grown as annuals. Cilant-
ro, dill and fennel are typically started from seed. To
shorten time to germination, soak seeds in water over-
night before planting. Parsley can be direct seeded or
grown from transplants. Either way, plant in well-
draining soil with lots of organic matter. Cilantro and
coriander refer to different parts of the same plant. If
it’s the leaves (cilantro) you’re after, growing it in the
cool season is a must, because it bolts (begins to
flower and produce seeds) quickly with the least bit
of heat. Even if you can’t stand the leaves, let it flower
and produce seed (coriander). Coriander seed is used
in pickling and many types of curry seasoning. All
four herbs are members of the Apiaceae (Carrot)
family of plants and are good larval host plants for
swallowtail butterflies. Look for the larvae or pupae
before harvesting, and be sure to share some of your
crop with them! Just a few plants should provide
plenty for both you and the butterflies.
5
Cultivating Compost as Leaves
Fall
As cooler temperatures and shorter days arrive, our
deciduous landscape trees such as hickories, syca-
mores and maples, will begin shedding leaves. Think
of this leaf-raking time not as a chore to be dreaded,
but as a time of opportunity to cultivate com-
post. Free organic matter is falling from the sky!
Use it to start a compost pile or rejuvenate an exist-
ing one.
Fallen, dead leaves are carbon-rich materials, or
“browns,” in the compost pile. They are typically
lower in moisture content than “greens,” degrade
slowly, and help aerate a compost pile. They are a
good balance to moist, nitrogen-rich materi-
als that comprise most of our kitchen scraps.
To use deciduous leaves in your compost pile, there
is no need to rake them into plastic bags. You can
rake them into large piles and run over them with a
lawn mower using a bag attachment. This will chop
them up into smaller pieces so they will break down
faster, and you can empty the bag directly into the
compost pile. If you have more leaves than you can
use immediately, you can create a second compost
pile or use them as mulch in landscape beds where
they will naturally compost over time.
If you don’t already have a compost pile, you can
find Compost Tips for the Home Gardener https://
edis.ifas.ufl.edu/ep323 from UF/IFAS online. If you
would like even more information, check out the
UF/IFAS Sarasota County composting website
https://sfyl.ifas.ufl.edu/sarasota/natural-resources/
waste-reduction/composting/ for a comprehen-
sive review of all things compost related.
Whether you choose to manage a hot-and-fast com-
post pile or prefer a lower-maintenance cool-and-
slow one, you will end up with rich, crumbly and
dark organic matter that can be turned into your soil
prior to planting fall vegetables, or used as a mulch
around existing vegetable and landscape plants. You
will be recycling those nutrients from your own
property right back into that same soil. You can
close the recycling loop without transportation and
off-site processing. A win for you, the environment
and your garden plants!
Growing in the Garden by Beth Marlowe
Handful of refined compost soil
UF/IFAS Photo by Tyler Jones
Yard waste, trees, branches, ground, leaves,
sticks and mulch.
UF/IFAS Photo by Thomas Wright
Take a 20-question quiz to see how much you know (or need to learn) about composting!
https://sfyl.ifas.ufl.edu/sarasota/natural-resources/waste-reduction/composting/quizfaq/
6
Upcoming September/October Classes
For Information please call : (904) 255-7450
Thursday, Sept. 10 at 10-11 am, 10 Ways to save the Rain, Learn different ways
to save the rain besides using a rain barrel. Delivered via Zoom, Register at: https://
www.eventbrite.com/e/118290338587
Thursday, Sept. 17 from 10:30 am–12, Herbs for the Fall Garden & How to
Use Them Learn about herbs you can grow throughout the cool season, as well as
how to use them. Delivered via Zoom, Register at: https://www.eventbrite.com/
e/117678849607
Tuesday, Sept. 29 at 10-11 am, Falling into Winter Learn about getting your
landscape ready! Delivered via Zoom, Register at: https://www.eventbrite.com/e/
falling-into-winter-tickets-118294073759
Saturday, Oct. 3 at 10 am and again at 11 am, Demonstration Garden Tour,
Extension Demonstration Garden, 1032 Superior Street, Jax, 32254 https://
www.eventbrite.com/e/urban-demonstration-garden-tour-tickets-119513988557
Thursday, Oct. 15 at 10-11 am, Garden in a Jar, What is container gardening,
….anything that holds soil, Delivered via Zoom, Register at https://
www.eventbrite.com/e/garden-in-a-jar-other-container-options-tickets-
119615762967
Thursday, Oct. 22 at 3-4 pm, Learn how to Grow Hydroponic Lettuce in a
Bucket, Learn the steps to set up your own passive hydroponic lettuce system in a 5
gallon bucket. Delivered via Zoom, Register at: https://www.eventbrite.com/e/
hydroponic-lettuce-tickets-119330824709
Wednesday, Oct. 28, 10-11 am, Theme Gardens Let’s visit 9 theme gardens. De-
livered via Zoom, Register at: https://www.eventbrite.com/e/theme-gardens-tickets-
119627654535
It is the Varroa Mite. This pest is a parasite that feeds on a
bee’s hemolymph , (honey bee blood), causing honey bee
stress and eventually the death of developing and adult
honey bees. This pest is the world's most devastating pest of
Western honey bees and is believed to be a major contributor
to Colony Collapse Disorder. A Varroa Mite infestation
causes a reduction in worker bee population and therefore
affects a colony’s ability to feed and care for itself. In addi-
tion, Varroa Mites transmit harmful viruses, further weaken-
ing the hive. The higher the Varroa population, the greater
the damage to the honey bee population will be.
What to Plant
September & October
Annuals - Try ageratum,
celosia, zinnia, and wax be-
gonia (Sept). Petunia, and
shasta daisy (Oct).
Bulbs - Plant calla, narcis-
sus, and zephyr lily (Sept).
Put out fragrant daffodil
varieties for North Florida;
include 'Carlton', 'Fortune',
'Silver Chimes', 'Thalia',
and 'Sweetness' (Oct).
Vegetables - Try Broccoli,
Cabbage, Cauliflower, Col-
lards, Kale, Lettuce, Mus-
tard, Onion, Radish, Straw-
berry, Swiss Chard and Tur-
nip
Herbs - Plant Cilantro,
Chives, Dill, Fennel, Garlic,
Marjoram, Parsley, Sage
and Thyme
What’s That? Answer!
A Varroa Mite feeds on a honey bee.
Photo Credit by James Castner, University of Florida