THE IMPLEMENTATION OF THAILAND
GASTRODIPLOMACY THROUGH KITCHEN TO THE WORLD
PROGRAM TOWARDS THE UNITED STATES 2011-2014
By
NISRINI KHAIRANI
016201400121
A Thesis presented to the Faculty of Humanities President University in partial
fulfillment of the requirements for Bachelor Degree in International Relations
Concentration in Diplomacy Studies
2018
ii
THESIS ADVISOR RECOMMENDATION LETTER
This undergraduate thesis entitled “THE IMPLEMENTATION OF THAILAND
GASTRODIPLOMACY THROUGH KITCHEN TO THE WORLD
PROGRAM TOWARDS THE UNITED STATES 2011-2014” prepared and
submitted by Nisrini Khairani in partial fulfillment of requirements for the Bachelor
degree in International Relations in the Faculty of Humanities has been review and
found to have satisfied the requirements for a thesis fit to be examined. I therefore
recommend this thesis for Oral Defense.
Cikarang, Indonesia, 7th May 2018
Riski M. Baskoro, S.Sos., MA.
Thesis Adviser
iii
DECLARATION OF ORIGINALITY
I declare that this thesis, entitled “THE IMPLEMENTATION OF THAILAND
GASTRODIPLOMACY THROUGH KITCHEN TO THE WORLD
PROGRAM TOWARDS THE UNITED STATES 2011-2014” is to the best of my
knowledge and belief, an original piece of work that has not been submitted, either in
whole or in part, to another university to obtain a degree.
Cikarang, Indonesia, 7th May 2018
Nisrini Khairani
iv
PANEL OF EXAMINER APPROVAL SHEET
The Panel of Examiners declare that the thesis entitled “THE IMPLEMENTATION
OF THAILAND GASTRODIPLOMACY THROUGH KITCHEN TO THE
WORLD PROGRAM TOWARDS THE UNITED STATES 2011-2014” that was
submitted by Nisrini Khairani majoring in International Relations from the Faculty
of Humanity was assessed and approved to have passed the Oral Examinations on
May 9th, 2018.
Hendra Manurung, S.IP., MA.
Chair – Panel of Examiners
Dr. Endi Haryono, S.IP., M.Si.
Examiner
Riski M. Baskoro, S.Sos., MA.
Thesis Adviser
v
ABSTRACT
Thesis Title: The Implementation of Thailand Gastrodiplomacy through Kitchen to
the World Program towards the United States 2011-2014
The use of food as a symbol of cultural identity is a tool of non-verbal
communication that governments can utilize in public diplomacy strategies to
promote their country on the global stage. Gastrodiplomacy is increasingly popular
branch of cultural diplomacy basically highlights and promotes awareness and
understanding of national culinary culture to foreign public. The promotion of
national cuisine within gastrodiplomacy is believed to attract the attention of foreign
public to assess the nation positively and strengthens relationships between countries.
The Thai government initiated the gastrodiplomacy approach through the “Kitchen to
the World” program to increase the number of Thai restaurants overseas to promote
its culinary heritage as one of the soft power tool, by allowing foreign public to
interact directly into their culture by coming to the restaurant and taste the authentic
cuisine. The Thai government is implementing Kitchen to the World program all
around the world, including to the United States of America. This research uses
qualitative method with analytical descriptive approach aimed to see the
implementation of Kitchen to the World initiative program taken by Thai government
in running Thailand gastrodiplomacy to the United States in the year of 2011-2014.
This research found that Thai gastrodiplomacy strategy by strengthening the presence
of Thai cuisine abroad became a way to enhance Thailand’s reputation and mutual
understanding as the establishment of Thai restaurant demand increased each year.
Keyword: Thailand, Soft Power, Public Diplomacy, Cultural Diplomacy,
Gastrodiplomacy, Kitchen to the World, Thai cuisine
vi
ABSTRAK
Judul Skripsi: Pelaksanaan Gastrodiplomasi Thailand melalui Program Kitchen to
the World di Amerika Serikat 2011-2014
Penggunaan makanan sebagai lambang identitas budaya merupakan sarana
komunikasi non-verbal yang dapat digunakan pemerintah dalam strategi diplomasi
publik untuk mempromosikan negaranya di panggung global. Gastrodiplomasi adalah
cabang diplomasi budaya yang semakin populer pada dasarnya menyoroti dan
mempromosikan kesadaran dan pemahaman tentang budaya kuliner nasional kepada
publik asing. Promosi masakan nasional di dalam gastrodiplomasi diyakini mampu
menarik perhatian publik bangsa lain dalam menilai suatu bangsa secara positif yang
dapat menciptakan dan memperkuat hubungan antar Negara tersebut. Pemerintah
Thailand melakukan inisiatif pendekatan gastrodiplomasi melalui program “Kitchen
to the World” dengan meningkatkan jumlah restoran Thai diluar negeri untuk
mempromosikan warisan kulinernya sebagai alat soft power dengan memberikan
kesempatan kepada publik asing untuk berinteraksi secara langsung ke dalam
budayanya. Pemerintah secara aktif terlibat dalam kegiatan gastrodiplomasi Thailand
dengan mengutamakan “keaslian” dalam ekspor budaya kulinernya di luar negeri.
Penelitian ini menggunakan metode kualitatif dengan pendekatan deskriptif analitis
bertujuan untuk melihat penerapan dari inisiatif Kitchen to the World program yang
digunakan pemerintah Thailand dalam menjalankan gastrodiplomasinya di Amerika
Serikat tahun 2011-2014. Penelitian ini menemukan bahwa aktifitas gastrodiplomasi
yang dilakukan Thailand dengan memperkuat kehadiran masakan Thailand di
Amerika Serikat menjadi cara untuk meningkatkan reputasi Negara Thailand dan
sikap saling pengertian dilihat dari permintaan pendirian restoran Thailand yang
meningkat setiap tahunnya.
Keyword: Thailand, Soft Power, Diplomasi Publik, Diplomasi Budaya,
Gastrodiplomasi, Kitchen to the World, Masakan Thailand
vii
ACKNOWLEDGMENT
Bismillahirrahmanirrahim, In the name of Allah, the Most Beneficent, the Most
Merciful.
Alhamdulillahi Robbil ‘Alamin, all my praises to Allah for the strength, his blessing,
peace of my mind, good health, patience and knowledge to completing this research.
This writing becomes a reality with the kind support and help of many people. I
would like to extend my sincere thanks to all of them.
My deepest heartfelt appreciation goes to my dear parents who served as my
inspiration to pursue this undertaking, Papa Wahyu Kurniawan and Mama Afriyanti.
Who sacrificed so much for me to give me the source of strength, financially, morally
and spiritually. It may take a lifetime to repay, but I will do anything to make you
proud. Perhaps the most important of things to be thankful for, is your unconditional
and undying love. To them I dedicate this thesis.
I would also thank to my Grandmother Rosma Suwarto, my Aunty Triyana, My twin
sister Nisrina Khairunnisa, my brother Nabil Nugraha and my entire extended family
for never-ending support and providing a loving environment for me.
I acknowledge, with deep gratitude and appreciation, the inspiration, encouragement,
valuable time and generously providing guidance given to me by my one and only
thesis advisor, Mr. Riski Muhammad Baskoro, S. Sos., MA. Thank you for
continuously encouraging me and pushing me to my limits to complete my thesis.
For the shoulder to lean on, Novia Sinta Tesalonika my only confidant, also
Muhammad Haekal Umri and Akila Paravathi for helping me get through the difficult
times, and for all the emotional support, camaraderie, entertainment, and caring they
provided since the first day in my university life.
viii
Wilma Putri Hellena who willingly helped me out with her abilities, how I truly value
your help when I faced difficulties in the completion of my thesis. Thank you for the
warm encouragement from Sekar Sugihartono and Nisa Nabila who have always been
with me for the past year and sparked a new spirit into my life.
I am particularly grateful to have wonderful friends who have helped me through the
last few years. Fintania, Logonta Tarigan, Cici Tobing, Evi Soedikto, Kurnia Utami,
Ivena Ersandi, Nur Afni Damanik, Jenny Stella, Anky Dirgantara, Jonathan
Christoforus and everyone I cannot mention. Thank you for listening, offering me
advice, and supporting me through this entire process. I am lucky to have wonderful
friends who have helped me through the last few years.
I must thank to the BPPK family in the Ministry of Foreign Affairs, especially P3K2
Amerop, particulary Mr. Arsi Dwinugra and Mr. Dea Kurniawan for giving hands on
the making of this thesis, motivation and lesson during the time I spent in the office.
Finally, my thanks and appreciations also go to my fellow Presuniv who have fought
together to this junction in our life. Thank you to every one that have contributed on
my university life, especially International Relations batch 2014 where we encourage
and guided each other so we passed the amazing University life.
Last, but certainly not least, this thesis is a form of my passion on culinary as an
International Relations student. Besides being a requirement for me to pursue a
degree at President University this thesis is also expected to be useful for me and
others especially for those who believe in the power of Gastrodiplomacy. The
struggle that I face during the completion on my thesis taught me many lessons for
the future, it takes time, persistence, and patience to create anything worthwhile.
Cikarang, 7th May 2018
Nisrini Khairani
ix
TABLE OF CONTENTS
THESIS ADVISOR RECOMMENDATION LETTER ..................................................... ii
DECLARATION OF ORIGINALITY ............................................................................. iii
PANEL OF EXAMINER APPROVAL SHEET ............................................................... iv
ABSTRACT ....................................................................................................................... v
ABSTRAK ......................................................................................................................... vi
ACKNOWLEDGMENT .................................................................................................. vii
LIST OF FIGURE ............................................................................................................. xi
LIST OF TABLE ............................................................................................................. xii
CHAPTER I ....................................................................................................................... 1
INTRODUCTION .............................................................................................................. 1 I.1. Background of Study ...................................................................................................... 1 I.2 Problem Identification ................................................................................................... 8 I.3 Statement of Problem ................................................................................................... 10 I.4 Research Objective ........................................................................................................ 10 I.5 Significance of Study ..................................................................................................... 10 I.6 Theoretical Framework ............................................................................................... 11
I.6.1 Soft Power..............................................................................................................................................11 I.6.2 Public Diplomacy ...............................................................................................................................12 I.6.3 Cultural Diplomacy ............................................................................................................................13 I.6.4 Gastrodiplomacy .................................................................................................................................15
I.7 Scope and Limitations of Study .................................................................................. 20 I.8 Research Methodology ................................................................................................. 21 I.9 Research Instrument .................................................................................................... 21 I.10 Structure of Thesis ...................................................................................................... 23
CHAPTER II ................................................................................................................... 24
LITERATURE REVIEW ................................................................................................ 24 II.1 Joseph Nye (2004) “Soft Power the Means to Success in World Politics”, Public
Affairs......................................................................................................................................................................24 II.2 Mark Leonard with Catherine Stead and Conrad Smewing (2002), Public
Diplomacy .............................................................................................................................................................26 II.3 Carole Rosestein (2008) “Cultural Policy and Political Nature of Culture” ...........28 II.4 Public Diplomacy Magazine, Winter 2014 Issue: Gastrodiplomacy .........................29 II.5 Sam Chapple-Sokol (2012) “Breaking Bread to Win Hearts and Minds” ...............31
x
II.6 Juyan Zhang (2015) The Foods of the Worlds: Mapping and Comparing
Contemporary Gastrodiplomacy Campaign .......................................................................................32 II.7 Mark Padoongpatt (2017) “Flavors of Empire: Food and the Making of Thai
America” ................................................................................................................................................................33
CHAPTER III ................................................................................................................. 35
THAILAND GASTRODIPLOMACY THROUGH KITCHEN TO THE WORLD ...... 35 III.1 Introduction to Thai Cuisine .................................................................................... 36
III.1.1 The History of Thai Cuisine .......................................................................................................36 III.1.2 The Globalization of Thai Food and Cuisine .......................................................................39
III.2 The “Kitchen to the World” Program under Yingluck Administration 2011-
2014......................................................................................................................................... 42 III.3 Kitchen to the World as Thailand Gastrodiplomacy ......................................... 45
III.3.1 Parties Supporting Thailand Food Industry ..........................................................................48 III.4 Kitchen to the World in the United States ............................................................ 52 III.5 Maintaining the Authenticity of Thai Cuisine to Promote Thailand Identity
.................................................................................................................................................. 54 III.5.1 Serving Thai Food and Cuisine in the United States ........................................................56 III.5.2 Maintaining Authenticity by “Thai Select”.....................................................................58
III.6 The Kitchen to the World Program and Americans Eating Habit .................. 64
CHAPTER IV .................................................................................................................. 67
THE IMPLEMENTATION OF KITCHEN TO THE WORLD PROGRAM IN THE
UNITED STATES .......................................................................................................... 67 IV.1 Food and Diplomacy ................................................................................................... 67 IV.2 Government Strategy’s to Promote Thailand as the Kitchen of the World
2011-2014 ............................................................................................................................. 71 IV.2.1 Thai Cooking Tour and School .................................................................................................72 IV.2.2 Thai Select Award and the Establishment of Thai Restaurant in the United States
...............................................................................................................................................................................75 IV. 3 Promote Thai Cuisine and Culture in the United States .................................. 80 IV.4 The Analysis of Kitchen to The World Implementation in the United States
of America 2011 – 2014 ..................................................................................................... 87
CHAPTER V ................................................................................................................... 94
CONCLUSION ................................................................................................................ 94
BIBLIOGRAPHY ........................................................................................................... 97
APPENDIX ................................................................................................................... 104
xi
LIST OF FIGURE
CHAPTER I
Figure 1.1 Research Framework of the Theory constructed by the writer 16
Figure 1.2 Research Framework of the Case constructed by the writer 17
CHAPTER III
Figure 3.1 Kitchen of the World logo 45
Figure 3.2 Thailand Thai Food and American Thai Food 57
Figure 3.3 Thai Select Premium and Thai Select logo 59
Figure 3.4 Authentic Thai Restaurant Service 61
Figure 3.5 Authentic Thai restaurant interior design 61
Figure 3.6 Traditional Performance in the Thai Restaurant
61
CHAPTER IV
Figure 4.1 Former PM Yingluck awarded “Thai Select” certification to the
Thai restaurateurs
74
Figure 4.2 Thai Select restaurant growth graphic 75
Figure 4.3 Thai Select Restaurant in the United States 76
Figure 4.4 Research Framework of the Case constructed by the writer 84
xii
LIST OF TABLE
CHAPTER IV
Table 4.1 Thai Cooking School and Courses in the United States 71
Table 4.2 Thai Select Restaurant in the United States 75
Table 4.3 Thailand Kitchen of the World promotion events in 2011-2014 78
1
CHAPTER I
INTRODUCTION
I.1. Background of Study
Maintaining international relations is an important factor for fostering mutual
understanding among nations, working together to achieve the nation’s interests and
creating prosperity of the nation. The post-cold war era has given more dimensions to
international realm, which can be seen through the expanded actors within the
practice of international relations. 1 Aware of the existence of non-state actors in
international relations, countries then have to provide different approaches to engage
with various actors. Engaging with varies of actors itself is needed to support the
achievement of national interest. Soft power then becomes an important factor for
countries to approach non-state actors since it is believed that the use of hard power is
not suitable for this attempt. The use of attraction through a country’s soft power is
believed to be more effective to approach those actors compared to the use of
coercion and inducement through hard power that is also identic with economic and
military might.2
As Joseph Nye wrote on his book Soft power: The means to success in world
politics, he defined soft power as "The ability to have an impact on the behavior of
other actors - to affect the opportunities available to others and their willingness to
choose particular courses of action."3 There are three sources of soft power which
are culture when it is attractive to others, political values which is getting lived up by
1 Wadlow, R. (n.d.). Reviewed Work: Non-state Actors in International Relations by Bas Arts, Math.
International Journal on World Peace, 19(3), 97–100. 2 Nye, J. S. (2004). Soft power: The means to success in world politics. New York: Public Affairs. 3 Ibid.,
2
the people domestically and abroad, and the other one is foreign policies there are
seen to be legitimate.4 Soft power definition can be concluded as a superior national
resource as the ability of the state that can be used to influence other countries in
order to achieve the desired results or interests. Soft power is applied as a foreign
policy instrument that is run by a state.
In adapting to international dynamics, a state will continuously conduct
diplomacy to maintain relationship towards other countries. Diplomacy is usually
associated with a peace mission, in addition diplomacy is also used as a means in
promoting important sectors of a country to achieve the national interest through
public diplomacy at the international level. Public diplomacy is a form of diplomacy
that changes and evolves along with the development of increasingly complex
international relations.5 The term of public diplomacy was first coined in 1965 by
Edmund Gullion as an interaction by the government and interest groups by
promoting soft power sources aimed in shaping public opinion in order to generate
awareness or create a positive nation image.6
In addition, that may have been regarded of a culture as only a complement,
but actually might be very powerful and potentially affects many people in the
simplest way; i.e. using food. Closely linked to culture, food that is considered as "the
oldest diplomatic instrument"7, it has been used by many countries to create a cross-
cultural understanding, which aims to enhance interaction and cooperation in
4 Nye, J. S. (2008). “Public Diplomacy and Soft Power.” The Annals of the American Academy of
Political and Social Science doi:10.1177/0002716207311699. 5 Szondi, G. (2008). Public Diplomacy and Nation Branding: Conceptual Similarities and
Differences. Discussion Papers in Diplomacy.
Netherlands Institute of International Relations ‘Clingendael’ 6 "Public Diplomacy" Before Gullion: The Evolution of a Phrase | USC Center on Public Diplomacy.
(2006, June 9). Retrieved from https://uscpublicdiplomacy.org/blog/public-diplomacy-gullion-
evolution-phrase
7 Mentioned by Hillary Clinton, former Secretary of State, Senator of New York State
3
international relations.8 Food has the ability in representing the history, traditions and
culture of a country, as Brillat-Savarin said, national cuisine is an important way in
which countries can define themselves. On his famous quotation, Brillat-Savarin
stated that “The destiny of nations depends on the manner in which they are fed. Tell
me what you eat, and I will tell you who you are”.9
The widening role of food utilization in diplomacy gave birth to the term
Gastrodiplomacy. It first appeared in The Economist article in 2002 which contains a
systematic Thai government policy to present Thai restaurants all around the world,
the government also claims that the international community has an interest in the
taste of the country. 10 Since then, gastrodiplomacy became a phenomenon that
develops in international relations. It is called gastrodiplomacy when diplomacy
combines with ethnic food of a nation intended to invite foreign audience to taste and
consume the cuisine as part of their life.11 In a simple definition, Paul Rockower
believe that gastrodiplomacy is “the act of winning hearts and mind through
stomach”.12 A nation cuisine becomes a mean to implement public diplomacy and
cultural diplomacy for highlighting the unique agricultural, culinary heritage, cultural
traditions, and national brand of the nation.13 It is a more effective way of becoming
an intermediary of non-verbal communication that can unite all dimension of
8 Sokol, S. C. (2013). Culinary Diplomacy: Breaking Bread to Win Hearts and Minds. The Hague
Journal of Diplomacy, 8, 161-183. Retrieved from http://culinarydiplomacy.com/wp-
content/uploads/2013/09/breaking-bread-to-win-hearts-and-minds.pdf
9 Ibid., 10 Food as Ambassador: Thailand's gastro-diplomacy. (2002). Retrieved from
https://www.economist.com/node/999687 11 Rockower, P. S. (2012). Recipes for gastrodiplomacy. Place Branding and Public Diplomacy, 8(3),
235-246. Retrieved from https://doi.org/10.1057/pb.2012.17
12 Ibid., 13 TEDx Talks. (2014, February 18). Food is not only culture, it's diplomacy: Leah Selim at
TEDxGowanus [Video file]. Retrieved from https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=-eyROTdBUs4
4
community, it can provide many important roles in connecting people-to-people, as
well as state-to-public.14
Gastrodiplomacy is an official activity organized by the government of a
country that includes the exchange of food culture between individuals, either
through migrant ethnic restaurant around the globe. 15 Gastrodiplomacy should be
easily accessible and rely on the world community because it is important for cultural
exchange in globalized world and it has a more real impact in daily life.
Gastrodiplomacy is expected to create a better image of a country and might be able
to strengthen the identity of the nation in international relations.
Thailand is the first nation which discovered its potential in gastrodiplomacy
and introduce it to the global stage since 2002 by using the restaurant as the pioneer
in cultural diplomacy. 16 The success of Thai government implements its
gastrodiplomacy is followed by other countries such as Japan, South Korea,
Malaysia, Peru, Taiwan and the United States. Japan’s UNESCO Washoku campaign
has launched in 2013 well known with its Sushi Diplomacy17, Peru with Cocina
Peruana Para El Mundo and the program aims to register the cuisine and culture of
Peru to UNESCO as an intangible cultural heritage of humanity to be recognized by
the world community.18 South Korea with Korean Cuisine to the World in 2009 and it
seriously promotes kimchi to the whole world19, Malaysia with Malaysian Kitchen
for The World campaign in 2010, Taiwan government initiate the All in Good Taste:
14 Rockower, P. (2014). The State of Gastrodiplomacy. Public Diplomacy Magazine, 11-20. Retrieved
from http://publicdiplomacymagazine.com/wp-content/uploads/2014/02/GASTRODIPLOMACY.pdf 15 Badan Pengkajian dan Pengembangan Kebijakan. (2016). Gastrodiplomasi Sebagai Penjuru
Diplomacy Ekonomi Indonesia. Kementerian Luar Negeri Republik Indonesia. 16 Rockower, P. S. (2011). The Gastrodiplomacy Cookbook. Retrieved from
https://www.huffingtonpost.com/paul-rockower/the-gastrodiplomacy-cookb_b_716555.html 17 Bestor, T. C. (2014). Most F(l)avored Nation Status: The Gastrodiplomacy of Japan’s Global
Promotion of Cuisine | Public Diplomacy Magazine. Retrieved from
http://www.publicdiplomacymagazine.com/most-flavored-nation-status-the-gastrodiplomacy-of-
japans-global-promotion-of-cuisine/ 18 Wilson, R. (2013). Cocina Peruana Para El Mundo: Gastrodiplomacy, the Culinary Nation Brand,
and the Context of National Cuisine in Peru. Exchange: The Journal of Diplomacy, 2(1), 13-20.
Retrieved from https://surface.syr.edu/cgi/viewcontent.cgi?article=1014&context=exchange
19 Ibid.,
5
Savor and Flavors of Taiwan but better known as Dim Sum Diplomacy since 2010 as
the President Ma Ying-jeou said “taking Taiwan’s food to the world” 20, and the
United States government officially launched their program in 2012 named Culinary
Diplomacy Partnership Initiative, as well as Australia with its global campaign
There’s Nothing Like Australia include the gastrodiplomacy program Restaurant
Australia in 2014 aims to promote its cuisine at 12 international markets.21
Thailand gastrodiplomacy program first launched in 2002 which was initiated
and supported under prior Thai Prime Minister Thaksin Shinawatra who pay attention
to the country’s competitiveness ranking.22 The program named “Global Thai” was
aimed to increase the number of restaurants in a year, then in October 2003 the
government launched “Thailand Kitchen of the World” in order to further promote
Thai cuisine abroad with a wider scope.23 By continuing the previous policy, the Thai
government under Prime Minister Yingluck Shinawatra has a policy to promote the
"Kitchen to the World” program by supporting Thai restaurant entrepreneurs abroad
while opened the door to the export of raw materials and Thai food product, which
aims for Thailand to be a major food exporter, and raising awareness of food security
under changing world condition that may lead to food shortage.24 The government’s
first step was through establishing Thai restaurants as much as possible in all over the
world to encourage more people to eat authentic Thai cuisine.25 An eBook published
to promote the Thailand: Kitchen to the World program states the following:
20 Booth, R. (2017, November 26). Taiwan launches 'gastro-diplomacy' drive. Retrieved from
https://www.theguardian.com/world/2010/aug/08/taiwan-launches-gasto-diplomacy-drive
21 There's Nothing Like Australia - Corporate - Tourism Australia. Retrieved from
http://www.tourism.australia.com/en/about/our-campaigns/theres-nothing-like-australia.html 22 Andrews, T. G., & Sununta, S. (2009). The changing face of management in Thailand. Milton Park,
Abingdon: Routledge. 23 Thai Food To World. (n.d.). Retrieved from
http://www.thaifoodtoworld.com/home/governmentpol.php
24 Policy Statement of the Council of Minister Thailand. Delivered by Prime Minister Yingluck
Shinawatra to the National Assembly. 2011 25 Foreign Office, The Government Public Relations Department. (n.d.). :: Thailand : Kitchen of the
World. Retrieved from http://thailand.prd.go.th/ebook2/kitchen/intro.html
6
“Thai cuisine from the past to the present is a proud heritage of the Thai
people that they believe is second to none, and it has been handed down through
generations. At the same time, Thai food and Thai cooking reflect the wisdom and
culture of the Thai nation. Today, Thai food and Thai cuisine stand ready to make
Thailand a proud Kitchen of the World”.26
In the first year of the program there were 5500 Thai restaurants around the
world, with an ambition, Thai government initiative wanting to raise the number to
8000 restaurants in 2003.27 Currently there are approximately 20,000 Thai restaurants
in every corner of the globe.28 This rapid increase is achieved by various strategies,
run in parallel by various ministries, government departments and collaborations with
private sectors.29 EXIM Bank of Thailand supported with an annual budget of 500
million Bath to support Thai investors who intend to open Thai restaurants in foreign
countries.30 To maintain the authenticity of Thai cuisine at least 60%, the Royal Thai
government, Ministry of Commerce established “Thai Select” as identification
certificate program which encouraged foreign audiences awareness towards authentic
Thai cuisine.31 Moreover, the Ministry of Foreign Affairs, the Ministry of Commerce,
the Ministry of Labour, , the Tourism Authority of Thailand, the Ministry of Industry,
Kasetsart University, the Thailand National Food Institute and many more are also
involved in encouraging Thai food globalization overseas by provides professional
Thai cooks and entrepreneurship training, conducting Thai food festival overseas,
26 Ibid 27 Foreign Office, The Government Public Relations Department,. “Thai Restaurants All Over the
World. (2006, July 26) Retrieved from http://thailand.prd.go.th/. 28 http://thaiembdc.org/2017/10/24/fifty-percent-of-thai-restaurants-are-in-the-us-and-canada/ 29 Thai Food To World. Government Project. (n.d.). Retrieved from
http://www.thaifoodtoworld.com/home/governmentpol.php?&language=EN 30 Thai Food To World. Financial Loan. (n.d.). Retrieved from
http://www.thaifoodtoworld.com/home/financial-detail.php?cms_id=8 31 Thai Select. (n.d.). Retrieved from http://www.thaiselect.com/main.php?filename=policy
7
monitoring and coordinating Thai restaurants overseas, inspecting exports and be the
mediator on any agreement between related countries.32
Aims set out by Thai government from the Kitchen to the World program are:33
To support the increase of Thai restaurant business overseas with the real
Thailand's high standard of service and tastes.
Making Thai restaurant as a leading substation and information center for
foreign public as well as marketing ”One Tambon One Product”
Thailand to become one of the world's leading food exporters with the highest
credibility and competitive prices
To promote more export of raw materials and additional ingredients for Thai
recipes
Thai restaurants abroad were originally established to accommodate Thai
migrants and bring them closer to home. Thai migrants needed a way to make money
and opened a restaurant. At first, they catered to people in their own community and
apparently, most customers not only Thais, but also the western find out how good
the food was and consume Thai food and cuisine on as regular basis.34 This is one of
the factors that driving the government's initiative to undertake gastronomic
approaches at the global level.
Thailand government have been continuously implement the kitchen to the
world program in various countries all around the world. The United States (US), is
not an exception. Relations between Thailand and US as diplomatic partners have
been established since early 19th century.35 Both countries have fought shoulder to
shoulder in every major conflict since World War II. As the first ally in Southeast
32 Thai Food To World. (n.d.). Retrieved from
http://www.thaifoodtoworld.com/home/governmentpol.php
33 Ibid., 34 Padoongpatt, M. (2017). Flavors of empire: Food and the making of Thai America. Oakland,
California: University of California Press.
35 Ibid.,
8
Asia, Thailand became the prime base of the United States during Vietnam War, also
a prime Rest & Recuperation hub for American soldiers.36 Up into recent times, Thai
and US developed close relations and redefined their partnership to meet modern
global challenges.37 The cooperation between these countries took place in various
fields such as military, economy, trade, science and technology. In economic, the
main bilateral arrangement is Treaty of Amity and Economic Relations signed in
1966 which regulates the ease of Thai and US economic access.38
The close relationship between Thailand and US has brought Thai people to
migrate to US especially to Los Angeles and bring ethnic cuisine across the
continent. 39 Thai cuisine is one of the Asian cuisines that has attracted many
Americans. 40 The government saw it as one of the opportunities to develop
gastrodiplomacy to the US. The Thai government looks at the popularity of Thai
cuisine in Los Angeles before developing the political economy program. 41 As a
testing site of Kitchen of the World, the response of the food festivals and Thai
restaurants in LA has provided intuitive and anecdotal evidence to the Thai
government about the potential of Thai cuisine to succeed in the United States and
worldwide.42
I.2 Problem Identification
Thailand is a rich country with various unique traditions, cultural heritages
and plenty of natural resources. Food is the face of Thailand, the cuisine relies on
36 Ibid., 37 Tow, W. T., & Stuart, D. (2014). The New US Strategy Towards Asia: Adapting to the American
Pivot. Routledge Security in Asia Pacific Series. 38 Thailand US Amity Treaty. (n.d.). Retrieved from
http://www.thailawforum.com/database1/amity.html 39 Sunanta, S. (2005). The Globalization of Thai Cuisine. Canadian Council for Southeast Asian
Studies Conference, York University, Toronto.
40 Ibid., 41 Padoongpatt, M. (2017). Flavors of empire: Food and the making of Thai America. Oakland,
California: University of California Press.
42 Ibid.,
9
herbs and spices to give a varied in appearance, aroma, color and tastes. Prime
Minister Yingluck stated that the Thai people are proud of the rich tradition and
popularity of Thai cuisine on a global level. The popularity of Thai cuisine in
America is utilized by the Thai government as an opportunity to hold public
diplomacy to enhance the competitiveness of the country.
The gastrodiplomacy program presents as one of the instruments of public
diplomacy conducted by Thailand government in shaping the country's image, greater
recognition and enhanced economic cooperation. Beginning with the Global Thai
program in 2002, the government tried to design several programs to introduce Thai
cuisine to be recognized by the world community to get the image as a country with a
wealth of diverse culinary. This effort continues with the Kitchen to the World policy
under Prime Minister Yingluck Shinawatra as a form of sustainability of the
gastrodiplomacy efforts undertaken.
Thailand has implement its gastrodiplomacy in various of countries including
United States. Thai gastrodiplomacy program implemented in the US can be assumed
to have a positive result, this can be seen from the Thai restaurant industry that has
exploded in large numbers in a short time in US. The beginning of 1990s there were
around 200 Thai restaurants located only in Los Angeles to accommodate Thai
immigrants and to bring them closer to home.43 By the end of 2017 there are 5,269
Thai restaurants all over the USA. 44 Although Thailand is facing political instability,
the government initiative in cultural diplomacy lives on. The popularity of Thai
cuisine has created a significant identity for Thailand, Thai cuisine has the potential
to promote its soft power. Thus, gastrodiplomacy activities can enhance the positive
image of Thailand through its cuisine uniqueness so that it plays an important role to
promote awareness and understanding of Thai cuisine culture.
43 Van Esterik, P. (1992). From Marco Polo to McDonald's: Thai cuisine in transition. Food and
Foodways, 5(2), 177-193. 44 Thai Restaurant Index - ThaiCuisine.com. (n.d.). Retrieved from http://thaicuisine.com/list.html
10
The objectives of this research are to study and analyze the implementation of
Kitchen to the World policy limited to 2014 and started from 2011 which was the
launch time of this program under Prime Minister Yingluck Shinawatra. Here will be
seen from the time range what efforts have been done by Thailand in the
implementation of the program, especially in the United States. Furthermore, this
research also aims to analyze how Thai cuisine used as a soft power tool has the
possibility to enhance Thailand reputation in the United States. Therefore, this thesis
is entitled “The Implementation of Thailand Gastrodiplomacy through Kitchen
to the World Program towards the United States 2011-2014”
I.3 Statement of Problem
Based on the explanation of the background of the problem, then can be drawn the
following problem question:
“How was the implementation of Thailand gastrodiplomacy through Kitchen of
the World program in the United States on the period of 2011 - 2014? ”
I.4 Research Objective
To know Thai gastrodiplomacy through Kitchen of the World program that
conducted by Thai government
To examine the implementation of Thai gastrodiplomacy in the United States
I.5 Significance of Study
Contributing in the study of International Relations related to gastrodiplomacy
which is a new study in IR, especially those implemented by Thailand
Highlight of the use of nation cuisine as Thailand’s cultural heritage as one of
the effective tools to promote the country
11
I.6 Theoretical Framework
In answering the question, the writer uses four concepts to discover, describe
and explain the object of research as well as being point of view of the research. The
concepts are Soft Power, Public Diplomacy, Cultural Diplomacy and
Gastrodiplomacy. The theory's approach is relevant to explain how Thailand is using
the Kitchen of The World program in an effort to build a culinary image of Thailand.
I.6.1 Soft Power
The concept of soft power was first introduced by Joseph S, Nye an American
political scientist of Harvard University in 1990. The concept of power or sometimes
called co-optive power itself according to Nye is “the ability to attract or repel other
actors to want what you want”. 45 This applies in the context of the current diplomacy
which prioritizes non-state actors in negotiating with others to get the desired interest
as well as the absence of violence and coercion. Can be seen in the activities as seen
in the form of public diplomacy, economic diplomacy, cultural diplomacy, sports
diplomacy and gastrodiplomacy.
According to Nye, the use of soft power can be used in capacities that cannot
be identified by hard power. What Nye means is that when the era of globalization is
very easy to touch the level of society using a communication strategy (example: the
internet). Soft power can also build peace relations between countries.
Many times, though not always, which serve as identifiers to designate the
uniqueness of a particular place is the culinary of the area. For example, Thailand
identic with Tom Yam, South Korea is identical with Kimchi, Taiwan identic with
Dim Sum and so on. This means that food is one way to look at cultural identity.
Kitchen of the World is one form of soft power owned by the Thai government.
Where through its gastrodiplomacy program invites foreign public to get tasting and
45 Nye, J. S. (2009). Soft Power: The Means To Success In World Politics. New York: PublicAffairs.
12
recognize the Thai cuisine by coming to Thai ethnic restaurants and indirectly make
the global community want to come directly to Thailand to witness the unique and
diverse culture of Thailand.
I.6.2 Public Diplomacy
The term of Public Diplomacy was first coined in 1965 by Dean Edmund
Gullion of Fletcher School of Law and Diplomacy, Tufts University. He defines
public diplomacy as follows:
"the influence of public attitudes on the formation and execution of foreign
policies. It encompasses dimensions of international relations beyond
traditional diplomacy (including) the cultivation by governments of public
opinion in other countries; the interaction of private groups and interests in
one country with those of another (and) the transnational flow of information
and ideas.46
According to the US Department of State, public diplomacy is a government-
sponsored program intended to inform or influence public opinion in other countries
through publication, films, cultural exchange, radio, television, etc. 47 In general,
public diplomacy is defined as an activity of communication relations that occurs
between the government and the foreign public. The relationship through public
diplomacy is then expected to create a good environment for people across countries
to work together and promote the growth of transactions between them. Public
diplomacy is a method to improve soft power and the interests of a country as soft
power itself gives a significant influence on the diplomatic achievements of a
46 Cull, N. J. (2006, June 9). "Public Diplomacy" Before Gullion: The Evolution of a Phrase | USC
Center on Public Diplomacy. Retrieved from https://uscpublicdiplomacy.org/blog/public-diplomacy-
gullion-evolution-phrase 47 U.S. Department of State, Dictionary of International Relations Terms, 1987, p. 85
13
country.48 In his writing, Jay Wang sees public diplomacy as a country's endeavor to
improve the quality of communication between the state and society in which the
implementation of public diplomacy does not make the government a single actor,
but also with community participation the country concerned.49
By shaping the perceptions of others (tends to be related to intangible assets)
such as cultures, interesting personalities of a country, and political and policy values
that have moral authority. The main purpose of this diplomacy is to generate interest
and also mutual respect between countries. 50 Public diplomacy conducted by
Thailand is government-sponsored program which is intended to influence public
opinion in other countries related to Thailand's own image. The main instrument used
by the Thai government in this research is the use of Gastrodiplomacy as a cultural
exchange.
I.6.3 Cultural Diplomacy
Culture in the study of social science is often identified with the values of
tradition, customs and characters of society that then form the civilization. Cultural
diplomacy is a diplomacy that utilizes the cultural aspect to meet its national interests
in the international community. This is the way a country demonstrates the degree of
civilization of a nation to influence or improve the attitudes and opinion of the
foreign community towards a country.
The concept of cultural diplomacy is the use of a country's culture by
exchanging ideas, information, art, to influence or inspire the international
community and foster a mutual understanding. Milton C. argues that ‘ it can also be
more of a one-way street than a two-way exchange, as when one nation concentrates
48 Dewangga, T. A. (2017). Meningkatkan Branding Negara Melalui “Gastro Diplomacy”. Retrieved
from http://setkab.go.id/meningkatkan-branding-negara-melalui-gastro-diplomacy/ 49 Wang, J. (2006). Public Diplomacy and Global Business. Journal of Business Strategy, 27(3), 41-49.
doi:10.1108/02756660610663826 50 Taylor, H. (2007). The Not-So-Black Art of Public Diplomacy. World Policy Journal, 24(4), 51-59.
doi:10.1162/wopj.2008.24.4.51
14
its efforts on promoting the national language, explaining its policies and point of
view, or “telling its story” to the rest of the world.51 Furthermore, as stated by Erik
Pajtinca in his journal “aimed at the promotion of foreign policy interests of this state
in the realm of cultural policy primarily by means of fostering its cultural exchange
with other (foreign) states”52
Basically, cultural diplomacy is a process of approach, relationship building
and increase mutual understanding.53 The term culture itself has such a broad aspect,
such as history, languages, customs, traditions, music, lifestyle, literature and social
relationships. But cultural diplomacy is not always about ancient or traditional
cultures because cultural diplomacy is an effort undertaken by a country in an effort
through cultural expression including utilization of ideological, technological,
political, economic, military, educational, socio-cultural and other fields that attract
and enjoyed by foreign audiences.54
Actors in cultural diplomacy are varies, although it is the government that
leads the initiative, cultural diplomacy not only done by government agencies and
private sector which is officially under the coordination of the Department of Foreign
Affairs, it can also be conducted by other government agencies, private institutions,
and even by individuals such as scholars, art performer, chef, academics, students,
etc.55 Cultural diplomacy can overcome differences in policy between countries and
another and form a neutral platform for interpersonal relations. When diplomatic
51 Cummings, M. C. (2003). Cultural diplomacy and the United States government: A survey.
Washington: Center for arts and culture. 52 Pajtinka, E. (2014). Cultural Diplomacy in Theory and Practice in Contemporary International
Relations. POLITICKÉ VEDY. Retrieved from
http://www.politickevedy.fpvmv.umb.sk/userfiles/file/4_2014/PAJTINKA2.pdf 53 Rosendorf, N. M. (2009). Chapter Nine A cultural public diplomacy strategy. In Toward a new
public diplomacy: Redirecting U.S. foreign policy (p. 173). New York, NY: Palgrave MacMillan. 54 Mark, S. (2014). A Greater Role for Cultural Diplomacy. Discussion Papers in Diplomacy.
Retrieved from Netherlands Institute of International Relations ‘Clingendael’
55 Ibid.,
15
relations are being disrupted, then cultural diplomacy acts as a flexible and acceptable
means to all parties.56
I.6.4 Gastrodiplomacy
Basically, gastrodiplomacy is a form of public diplomacy that combines
cultural diplomacy, culinary, and nation branding. It is one of nation’s effort to
communicate with the foreign public by offering culinary heritage and tradition. This
activity is sponsored by the state government through campaigns and activities
abroad that work together with non-state actors such as government agency, private
stakeholders, individuals and societies like chef or diaspora. The terminology of
gastrodiplomacy is a new phenomenon that is developing in the field of International
Relations. This term is expressed from The Economist magazine in 2002 and
popularized by Paul Rockower, a gastronomist graduated from Southern California
University and a leading expert in the burgeoning public diplomacy field of
gastrodiplomacy.57
Gastrodiplomacy on restriction is the use of food in international relations to
create peace and cultural understanding. 58 Rockower believe that gastrodiplomacy is
“the act of winning hearts and minds through stomach indirect emotional
connection”59 On the other hand, Samuel Chapple Sokol believes that the use of
cuisine as an instrument for creating cross-cultural understanding aims to enhance
56 Arndt, R. T. (2011). The First Resort of Kings: American Cultural Diplomacy in the Twentieth
Century. Herndon: Potomac Books.
57 Paul Rockower | USC Center on Public Diplomacy. (n.d.). Retrieved from
https://uscpublicdiplomacy.org/users/paul_rockower 58 Bradley, C. (2014). Gastrodiplomacy: Eating for Understanding – Food Politics Field Notes.
Retrieved from http://foodfieldnotes.uoregon.edu/article/gastrodiplomacy-eating-for-understanding/ 59 Rockower, P. S. (2011). Projecting Taiwan: Taiwan’s public diplomacy outreach. Issues and
Studies, 43(1), 107-152.
16
interaction and cooperation. Not only interaction between government to government
at the high level but also government to public.60
In practice, gastrodiplomacy done by sharing cultures between countries
through food. Gastrodiplomacy offers the opportunity to engage in the culture of a
country through food to the foreign public from long distance. As Rockower wrote on
the journal Recipes for Gastrodiplomacy that “Gastrodiplomacy helps familiarize the
foreign public especially for certain publics who are more reluctant to travel”.61
Through gastrodiplomacy foreign public can learn new cultures from the other side of
the world through culinary experiences.
Gastrodiplomacy is considered a popular strategy for public diplomacy and
nation branding. 62 Gastrodiplomacy is about how a country conducts cultural
diplomacy by promoting the distinctive cuisine, so as to raise public awareness of the
nation-brand of a country, as well as assisting foreign public.
Gastrodiplomacy itself has characteristics that determine whether the process
belongs to gastrodiplomacy or not. The character of the gastrodiplomacy according to
Rokcower's view is as follows:63
a. Communicate about culinary culture with foreign public in a broader way,
more than high-level elites.
b. Enhance the nation brand through cultural diplomacy by creating awareness
and understanding of foreign public towards national culinary culture
c. Transcends the realm of state-to-public communication and increasingly
includes people-to-people engagement,
60 Sokol, S. C. (2013). Culinary Diplomacy: Breaking Bread to Win Hearts and Minds. The Hague
Journal of Diplomacy, 8, 161-183. 61 Rockower, P. S. (2012). Recipes for gastrodiplomacy. Place Branding and Public Diplomacy, 8(3),
235-246.
62 Ibid., 63 Rockower, P. (2014). The State of Gastrodiplomacy. Public Diplomacy Magazine, 11-20.
17
Thailand Kitchen of the World seeks to improve the national image by using
food as a tool to change public perception and promote itself on the global stage.
While there are many ways for a nation to define and visualize its identity, food is
one of the most obvious instruments in reinforcing a country's identity. The
government uses food as part of a strategy of broader cultural diplomacy. This
strategy seeks to export its ethnic food and ingredients and culture to a wider world in
the form of national cuisine.64
In this research, the writer will use research framework as;
Figure 1.1 Research Framework of the Theory constructed by the writer
64 Wilson, R. (2013). Cocina Peruana Para El Mundo: Gastrodiplomacy, the Culinary Nation Brand,
and the Context of National Cuisine in Peru. Exchange: The Journal of Diplomacy, 2(1), 13-20.
18
Figure 1.2 Research Framework of the Case constructed by the writer
In analyzing how the gastrodiplomacy efforts conducted by the Thai government
in introducing Thai food as part of its country identity is an instrument of soft power
owned by Thailand. Then, writer will use the concept of public diplomacy which,
according to Jay Wang as a form of government communication of a state by
involving non-state actors to foreign communities in order to invite foreign
communities to be attracted to the culture of a country.65 Thailand as a middle-power
country, the Thai government is keenly aware of winning the hearts and minds of the
65 Wang, J. (2006). Public Diplomacy and Global Business. Journal of Business Strategy, 27(3), 41-
49.
19
public by exploiting its cultural wealth. The use of food as an instrument of cultural
diplomacy is believed to enhance the intercultural communication of people in the
world. The relationship between public diplomacy and cultural diplomacy is linked in
the concept of soft power. In particular, the significance of public diplomacy since
soft power grows out of culture, domestic values and policies as well as foreign
policy.66 It is critical to be aware of how soft power can be used as a means of public
diplomacy. Furthermore, the concept of cultural diplomacy itself has become a
linchpin of public diplomacy.67 Based on the use of national cuisine as a means of
communication to foreign public in Thai government policy the writer uses the
concept of Gastrodiplomacy. Gastrodiplomacy itself has characteristics that
determine whether the process belongs to gastrodiplomacy or not. The character of
the gastrodiplomacy according to Rokcower's view is as follows:68
a. gastrodiplomacy is a public diplomacy effort that tries to communicate about
culinary culture with foreign public in a broader way, more than high-level
elites.
b. The practice of gastrodiplomacy seeks to enhance the nation brand through
cultural diplomacy by creating awareness and understanding of foreign public
towards national culinary culture
c. Gastrodiplomacy as public diplomacy in the globalization era beyond state-to-
public relations and increasingly includes people-to-people engagement
In summary, if sorted backward from Gastrodiplomacy concept, in the journal of
Riski Baskoro believed that this concept is part of cultural diplomacy, as cultural
66 Kim, H. (2017). Bridging the Theoretical Gap between Public Diplomacy and Cultural
Diplomacy. The Korean Journal of International Studies, 15(1). 67 Cultural Diplomacy the Linchpin of Public Diplomacy. (2005). Retrieved from Report of the
Advisory Committeeon Cultural Diplomacy website:
https://www.state.gov/documents/organization/54374.pdf 68 Rockower, P. (2014). The State of Gastrodiplomacy. Public Diplomacy Magazine, 11-20.
20
diplomacy is considered as a sub of public diplomacy. 69 Then the three concepts
connected to the soft power of a nation. By using these concepts, the authors will see
the activities that have been carried out by the Thai government and non-state actors
in the implementation of gastrodiplomacy efforts in introducing Thai cuisine to the
world as seen from the years 2011 to 2014 under the leadership of Prime Minister
Yingluck Shinawatra.
I.7 Scope and Limitations of Study
The scope and limitation of this research will be based on the use of food in
the form of public diplomacy efforts conducted by Royal Thai government through
the gastrodiplomacy strategy “Kitchen to the World” in promoting the cuisine culture
in the global stage. Therefore, in order to topics that will be analyze can be more
specific need to explain some limitations that will show the significance of the
problem.
This research will explore what forms of gastrodiplomacy activities have been
done by the Thai government. The writer takes restrictions from 2011 to 2014, this
limitation is taken based on the inauguration of Kitchen to the World policy under
Prime Minister Yingluck Shinawatra in 2011 as a continuation of Thailand's
gastrodiplomacy program which began in 2002 as an effort in disseminating Thai
cuisine through the establishment of restaurants abroad and maintain the authenticity
of cuisine that served all over the world, especially the United States. Furthermore,
the study will explore the gastrodiplomacy efforts undertaken by Thai governments
abroad in cooperation with non-state actors through the marketing of food products,
the organization of events, cooking school and education, etc. These limits will help
explain how was the implementation of Kitchen to the World as the gastrodiplomacy
program to promote Thai cuisine in the United States on the period of 2011 – 2014.
69 Baskoro, R. M. (2017). Konseptualisasi dalam Gastro Diplomasi: Sebuah Diskusi Kontemporer
dalam Hubungan Internasional. Jurnal INSIGNA, 4, 35-48. Retrieved from
http://jos.unsoed.ac.id/index.php/insignia/article/download/666/496/
21
I.8 Research Methodology
In this analysis, the writer used qualitative methodology. Defensively, Bodgan
and Taylor explain that qualitative methodology is a methodological form that has
descriptive data output based on written or oral words of the observed object.
Besides, Kirk and Miller also explained that qualitative research is a form of research
that depends on human observation which will be termed its own terminology.
The research method used by writer in getting and describing data that is
using descriptive research method. The existing data collected from the literature and
articles that exist in journals and other scientific publications, both in print and
electronic form such as e-books and websites that serve as the main source in looking
at the issues raised. The author will also conduct online interviews with stakeholders
such as government offices on issues raised to obtain additional data. In other words,
qualitative methodology is a methodology that can be applied in a descriptive output
in a scientific study.
Later that will be seen here is a form of gastrodiplomacy strategy
implemented by the Thai government in globalize the Thai Cuisine to change the
perception of the world. Then the form of strategy that has been applied will be
analyzed using a public diplomacy approach, where this approach sees that
gastrodiplomacy is one form of public diplomacy.
I.9 Research Instrument
I.9.1 Book
The writer uses several books to further understand in detail the theoretical
framework in terms of soft power, public diplomacy, cultural diplomacy. Moreover,
the writer also uses a book that discusses the development of Thai cuisine in the US.
22
I.9.2 Academic Journal and Article
Gastrodiplomacy studies still relatively new in international relations, there are not
many books on gastrodiplomacy. However, the writer found several academic
journals related to gastrodiplomacy study that can be used as a guide in conducting
research. Those academic journals help the writer gain more understanding and
different idea opinion to see gastrodiplomacy from wider side.
I.9.3 Media Online
Advances in technology has been able to answer the various needs of today's
society. Online media such as the Internet as one of the most useful medium for
writers in the search for various information, ranging from theoretical information,
primary data or secondary data for research needs. Internet provide information from
many official website, document and reports. Some resources that used for this
research are;
a) The Thai Government Public Relations Department
http://thailand.prd.go.th
b) Thailand Gastrodiplomacy, Kitchen of the World E-book
http://thailand.prd.go.th/ebook2/kitchen/intro.html
c) Royal Thai Embassy official website
http://thaiembdc.org/
d) The Department of International Trade Promotion and Thai Select
http://www.thaiselect.com
23
I.10 Structure of Thesis
CHAPTER I Chapter I is the introductory chapter that will discuss the
background of study, identification of the problem, statement of
the problem, determine the research objectives, significance of
study and describe the theoretical framework that used in this
writing.
CHAPTER II Chapter will contain literature review of the main sources that
will help the writer on doing the research. A summary of books,
journals, articles related to the topic of this thesis will be
reviewed in this chapter. The writer will use sources related to
public diplomacy, gastrodiplomacy program and Thailand
tourism to support the writer on finishing the research.
CHAPTER III Chapter III contains an overview of the gastrodiplomacy
program that implement by Thailand government through
Kitchen to the World program that contains a brief description
and information about the profile of Kitchen of the World.
Moreover, this chapter also contains the history between
Thailand and US bilateral relations and brief explanation about
how Thai cuisine can be accepted by American citizens.
CHAPTER IV This chapter will explain the writer's analysis in view of
Thailand's public diplomacy efforts to globalize Thai Cuisine
that has persisted until 2014. This chapter will also include data
and findings that have been researched to see the efforts that
have been made by the Thai government.
CHAPTER V Chapter V will contain the conclusions of the study and end with
a recommendation from the writer.
24
CHAPTER II
LITERATURE REVIEW
In conducting this research, the writer has tried to find some reliable references as the
guidance and comparison in view of existing problems. The writer will review the
sources such as books, journals, academic articles, publications, reports that the writer
uses according to the topic of research. The writer will summarize and review things
which is important for the writer to be the source of this research. Some of these
references include:
II.1 Joseph Nye (2004) “Soft Power the Means to Success in World
Politics”, Public Affairs
Joseph S. Nye Jr. is a former US political scientist, professor and former dean
of the Kennedy School of Government, Harvard University.70 The concept of soft
power began popularized by Nye since 1980, but in his book Soft Power: The Means
to Success in Worlds Politics (2004), Nye began to explore in detail and redefine his
soft power concept. Through this book Nye defines soft power as the ability attract or
co-opting the other nations to share its objectives or desired outcomes. Nye also
stressed that soft power is more using Attraction than Coercion and Payment. Soft
Power's definition according to Nye is:
“Soft power is the ability to get what you want through attraction rather than
coercion or payments. It arises from the attractiveness of a country’s culture,
political ideals and policies” 71
70 Joseph Nye | Harvard Kennedy School. (n.d.). Retrieved from
https://www.hks.harvard.edu/faculty/joseph-nye 71 Nye, J. S. (2009). Soft Power: The Means To Success In World Politics. New York: PublicAffairs.
25
In his book, Nye argues that soft power depends on the ability of the state to
organize the political agenda in a way that can be preference for other countries. One
way to give preference to other countries is through attractive cultural attractions,
ideologies and institutions. Unlike the Hard Power (military force or economic
power) used to "coercion" other nations to change their views or opinions, Nye says
that the soft power of a country exists primarily in three sources: Culture, Political
Values, and Foreign Policy.
As stated by Nye, the thing that makes a nation fulfilling its national interest
is how to make others admire its values, the things that exist within the country that
inspire other countries. This admiration comes from an interest generated by a state
without coercion so that soft power is not just persuasion or the ability to move
people with arguments, but to make others fulfill what we want without being asked,
including the ability to attract, and attraction often leads to acquiescence.72
From this book the writer helped in understanding the concept of soft power
and explained that to achieve the goal is not merely using coercion or hard power and
how to build the potential of soft power to hold power. The culture that Nye says is
one of sources of soft power, gives understanding to the writer and justifies the topic
of research where culture is being used as an instrument of state diplomacy.
According to Joseph S. Nye that culture allows a country to convey more
value and message to become a preference for other countries, then through Kitchen
of the World which makes Thai cuisine which is one of the pride of Thai people,
giving Thailand a chance to deliver hospitality and friendly messages. Government
efforts to ensure that Thai restaurants around the world must have distinctive Thai
interiors and use raw materials from Thailand to make its cultural information center
abroad, to convey Thailand's message about the beauty and natural wealth of the
country as well as the importance of the environment there. The hospitality that
72 Ibid.,
26
Thailand has can also convey the Thai message of friendship to be in order to support
Thai cooperation with other countries.
II.2 Mark Leonard with Catherine Stead and Conrad Smewing
(2002), Public Diplomacy
Mark Leonard is a British political scientist and foreign policy adviser,
stresses that public diplomacy is not just about delivering one-way messages or
propaganda. On his book, Leonard define public diplomacy that is about building
relationships: understanding the needs of other countries, cultures and peoples;
communicating our points of view; correcting misperceptions; looking for areas
where we can find common cause.73
With the existence of public diplomacy activities, it is expected to generate
good relations and environment for the people of the State, to work together and
improve cooperation between them. Mark believes that public diplomacy aims to
foster positive public opinion in other countries through the interaction of
government and interest groups. Therefore, public diplomacy requires intercultural
communication skills as they relate to changing people's attitudes, mutual
understanding in looking at foreign policy issues.
Figure 2.1: Mark Leonard’s circle of public diplomacy
73 Leonard, M., Stead, C., & Smewing, C. (2002). Public diplomacy. London: Foreign Policy Centre.
IssueImag
e
27
Mark mentioned that there are at least some goals that can be achieved with the
existence of public diplomacy74
1. Increasing the familiarity of foreign public with the state makes them think
about this country, forming a good perspective with a positive image and and
eliminating unwanted opinions
2. Enhance the appreciation of the foreign public with the state and making them
look at a global issue with the same point of view
3. Engaging foreign public in collaboration with the state (strengthening the ties
of educational reform into scientific cooperation, convincing people in foreign
country to visit a country as a tourism destination, to be a consumer of local
products and to expand export destinations, getting foreign public to
understand and embrace the value of the state which held public diplomacy.
4. Influence people in other countries to invest and become partners in political
relations.
Seeing Mark's public diplomacy purpose, then it can be seen that public
diplomacy requires two-way communication to create good communication so that
the value and message given can be received without any misunderstanding. It also
shows that public diplomacy is different from propaganda. Propaganda is often
considered to have the same understanding with public diplomacy because
propaganda also serves to influence others to have the same thoughts we want. In
public diplomacy it is emphasized that in the process and cannot be coercive.
In the implementation, Mark divides public diplomacy into two: Competitive
and Co-operative public diplomacy. 75 Co-operative public diplomacy is a form of
public diplomacy that is aimed broadly without a specific target country. Usually this
kind of public diplomacy aims to promote democracy, human rights and law. In
spreading these values, a state cooperates with other countries or organizations both
74 Ibid., P:9 75 Ibid., P: 22
28
government and non-government in order to avoid paradox in the delivery of
values. While Competitive public diplomacy done with the target country that made a
priority in the implementation of public diplomacy. Thus, public diplomacy is done
more with emphasis in bilateral relations in certain areas, such as political influence,
military cooperation, trade, investment, tourism, policy exchanges and coalitions in
international organization.
From Mark's writing it is clear that public diplomacy is a planned effort by the
government to shape positive perceptions among other countries through information
dissemination, information extension and other forms of activity that directly touch
the activities of non-governmental actors. the establishment of public diplomacy
activities by involving the domestic public is caused by the assumption that public
diplomacy is a public product in shaping the image and reputation to create an
enabling environment for the realization of a country's interests together with
individual transactions.
II.3 Carole Rosestein (2008) “Cultural Policy and Political Nature of
Culture”
This writing is a chapter in the. book titled International Cultural Policies and
Power edited by J Singh. 76 It explained the studies of government-sponsored cultural
programming and state promotion of heritage and regulation of artistic expression
which demonstrate the joining of culture with power, where cultural beliefs and
values explain about why and to what extend human nature demands governing and
what counts as private as opposed to public and legitimately governable. The writer
believe that culture is political as well, but it just not better recognize and explored.
This study gives an understanding about culture as political by adopt more
sophisticated and nuanced notion of culture. In this chapter also describes that culture
76 Rosestein, C. (2010). Cultural Policy and the Political Nature of Culture. In International Cultural
Policies and Power.
29
is taken for granted in contexts and negotiation, and sometimes it makes culture loses
its transparency that is why culture has come to prominence during critical shifts in
globalization.
The policies making sometimes give an impact to the distribution of cultural
resources, the policy maker shape the way to make people can access where the
culture are created and also provide opportunities for people to develop their
capabilities to comment with their own experiences. Policy also impacts culture
through regulation of the public sphere in its material as opposed to its virtual
manifestations.
This writing explain about the cultural policies in some countries which
explained by the expert, so this study in this chapter gives a image and understanding
about how a policy conducted by the government towards host country can influence
to the culture and value.
II.4 Public Diplomacy Magazine, Winter 2014 Issue:
Gastrodiplomacy
Public Diplomacy Magazine is a publication of the Association of Public
Diplomacy Scholar (APDS) at the University of Southern California. In this
edition, Public Diplomacy Magazine rise an emerging theme on Gastrodiplomacy and
discuss the development of its role in public diplomacy. 77 This edition creates a
theoretical and practical framework for discussing gastrodiplomacy in various
contexts.
This book summarizes the journals and explores gastrodiplomacy from
historical explanations the use of food in international relations, the definition of
gastrodiplomacy according to experts, the perspective of scholars obtained from the
results of research and interviews about the practice of gastrodiplomacy. According
to Paul Rockower, Gastrodiplomacy is the way a country conducts its public
77 Association of Public Diplomacy Scholar (APDS), University of Southern California, (Winter
2014), Gastrodiplomacy, Public Diplomacy Magazine, (issue 11).
30
diplomacy to communicate the culture of country cuisine to foreign public and it can
be a dynamic new tactic in the practice of public and culture diplomacy to raise
foreign public awareness and understanding. 78 The book also presents analytical
results, interviews with gastrodiplomacy experts and also presents case studies in
some countries that have practiced gastrodiplomacy. Therefore, the book creates a
theoretical and practical framework for discussing gastrodiplomacy in various
contexts.
This book explains the concept of Gastrodiplomacy that Paul Rockower
reveals by explaining that gastrodiplomacy has a difference scope with culinary and
food diplomacy. The practice is used as the main instrument to raise awareness and
understanding of national culture through its culinary abroad to foreign public. While
food diplomacy which involves the use of food aid and food relief in a crisis, it is not
a holistic use of cuisine as an avenue to communicate culture through public
diplomacy. 79 According to Rockower, gastrodiplomacy create a non-verbal
communication for different audiences,
The book also explains the relations of a country's cuisine and its national
image from the research of Braden Ruddy. He indicated that the promotion of food
has the potential to change public perception of national image and become the
gateway of cultural exports of other countries such as art, sport and most significantly
increase tourism benefits the country.80 In another journal, this book also explains the
perspective of Osipova about how the position of gastrodiplomacy in the seizure of
food or so-called here with Gastronationalism which raged between the border of
Armenia and Azerbaijan. This paper gives a new view that gastrodiplomacy cannot
always play a major role.81
78 Ibid., P: 14 79 Rockower, P. (2014) The State of Gastrodiplomacy. on Public Diplomacy magazine, p: 12.
80 Hearts, Minds, and Stomachs: Gastrodiplomacy and the Potential of National Cuisine in Changing
Public Perception of National Image by Braden Rudy p: 27-30 81 Osipova, Y. (2014). From Gastronationalism to Gastrodiplomacy: Reversing the Securitization of
the Dolma in the South Caucasus. In Public Diplomacy Magazine. P: 16-20
31
However, not all forms of promotion of food products overseas means
gastrodiplomacy. In contrast, gastrodiplomacy is a more effective approach to
increase national awareness of a country through the promotion of culinary and
cultural heritage. This book is suitable to be the source to understand in advance
about the portion of gastrodiplomacy from wide perspective. This book can be used
as a comparison of research because it explains gastrodiplomacy in detail about the
definition of explanation from various analytical perspectives, as well as various case
studies that enrich the writer’s knowledge to begin this research.
II.5 Sam Chapple-Sokol (2012) “Breaking Bread to Win Hearts
and Minds”82
Chapple-Sokol claims that all things related to food in the study of
international relations is called culinary diplomacy, although he tries to divide into
two domains, namely private culinary diplomacy and public culinary diplomacy
which the difference is the target audience. Private culinary diplomacy is the
diplomacy done at the government level, while public culinary diplomacy has a close
definition to gastrodiplomacy, the use of food as a tool of public diplomacy aimed at
introducing and promoting the cuisine of a country to the public of other countries
widely. Sam Chapple Sokol define gastrodiplomacy as “The use of food and cuisine
as an instrument to create a cross-cultural understanding in the hopes of improving
interactions and cooperation”.
In his writing, Sokol explains that the nation branding effort is government
efforts to promote a country's good reputation and this is highly dependent on
marketing efforts and nationalism owned by citizens who do gastrodiplomacy itself.
Sokol sees the concept of nation branding as a government effort to engage in
gastrodiplomacy strategies by promoting the cuisine globally to get recognition by
82 Sokol, S. C. (2013). Culinary Diplomacy: Breaking Bread to Win Hearts and Minds. The Hague
Journal of Diplomacy, 8, 161-183.
32
other countries. He stressed that if this process occurs when a tourist tastes the
cuisine, then he will be able to recognize where it came from. Chapple Sokol also
mentioned that the food philosophy and how to cook the food can be a
gastrodiplomacy strategy that the image of a country can be recognized by
performing a holistic way as an effort to build the culinary image of the country.
Chapple Sokol emphasizes that gastrodiplomacy can work well when a
foreigner eats an ethnic cuisine, so the person is able to recognize where the cuisine
came from. it can also be introduced through the philosophy, the way of cooking and
also the typical ingredients of a country where it can be a tactic that can be included
in the gastrodiplomacy part that the introduction of a country can be done holistically
from the way cooking, materials and philosophy that can be exported to other
countries as an effort to introduce the image of a country.
The Royal Thai government has undertaken a strategy to build a nation brand
by promoting Thai cuisine on the international stage through the efforts of public
diplomacy, cultural diplomacy and gastrodiplomacy. Public diplomacy provides an
opportunity to increase influence and shape an international agenda that can have
enormous impacts with limited resources.
II.6 Juyan Zhang (2015) The Foods of the Worlds: Mapping and
Comparing Contemporary Gastrodiplomacy Campaign83
This journal describes how a gastrodiplomacy campaign can be implemented
with strategic communication planning. This journal is the result of Zhang's research
by comparing gastrodiplomacy campaigns conducted by several countries such as
Japan, Malaysia, Peru, Taiwan, South Korea and Thailand. This analysis describes
the results that a campaign can be seen from healthiness, diversity, exoticism,
83 Zhang, J. (2015). The Foods of The Worlds: Maping and Comparing Contemporary
Gastrodiplomacy Campaigns. International Journal of Communication, 9, 568-591. Retrieved from
http://ijoc.org/index.php/ijoc/article/viewFile/2847/1316
33
naturalness, nationalism, and naturalness. This journal reveals that the
gastrodiplomacy campaign characterized by communication that combines product
marketing, advertising, public relations and public affairs, the use of opinion leaders
strategy, make a good relations with media and building coalitions with other
countries is also another strategy to look for synergistic effects.
Food and drink are often described as a means of communication between
nations as both are able to represent the value and cultural identity of a nation and
create a relationship between brand and consumer behavior. In his writing, Juyan
Zhang quotes Kotler and Gertner (2002) who argue that the image of a country can
affect a positive reputation for a country like the "Café de Colombia" campaign in
which the country is made a brand of coffee. His influence succeeds in convincing
many US consumers that Café de Colombia its a quality coffee. In addition,
Nuttavuthisist (2006) cited by Juyan Zhang observed that the diplomatic
gastrodiplomacy policy is an attempt to improve the negative image of Thailand as a
destination for sex tourism and try to position itself as a kitchen to the world by
promoting good quality Thai food and cuisine.
II.7 Mark Padoongpatt (2017) “Flavors of Empire: Food and the
Making of Thai America”
Mark Padoongpatt is a second-generation Thai American born and raised in Los
Angeles, He is Assistant Professor of Asian and Asian American Studies at the
University of Nevada, Las Vegas.
In general, the book explores how Thai food has shaped the Thai-American
community and identity since World War II and became popular in America and
globally. Mark Padoongpatt explores the historical roots of the relationship between
Thai food, politics, empire, race, immigration, politics and the formation of Thai
communities in America especially Los Angeles. The history of the US intervention
in post-cold war in Southeast Asia brought Thai cuisine into America in the early
1960s, Mark Padoongpatt traces how a US citizen in Thailand exposes the uniqueness
34
of Thai cuisine for the first time and introduces it to the United States. When Thai
immigrants arrived in Los Angeles, they repackaged Thai cuisine to increase its
popularity.
According to him, the practice of food as an inherent political act is very
important, because it shows to people that food is a daily necessity, providing an
understanding of their relationship with the world around them. Padoongpatt believes
that Thai food is one of the best ways to provide the transnational experience of
Americans and Thai-Americans while understanding the informal empire of US in the
post-World War II era has transformed foodways into a critical site of racial and
ethnic identity formation.84
Padoongpatt shows on his book how the origins of Thai culinary and cuisine
in Los Angeles did not emerge from the arrival of Thai immigrants to the US, but
from US intervention in Thailand and the first spike of Thai international tourism
during the Vietnam War. Then he also traces Thai immigrants especially in Los
Angeles who open Thai restaurants to support the economic growth and obstacles
they face when it is difficult to get ingredients for Thai cuisine. The subsequent
migration and settlement in LA encouraged the explosion of Thai restaurants in the
1970s and 1980s. His latest analysis Padoongpatt explains the Thai government's
policy of seeing the potential popularity of Thai cuisine amidst US society taking
advantage of the multicultural politics initiatives that have emerged by making Thai
cuisine as the focus of Thai political activity.
This book answers the author's question about the origins of Thai food in the United
States and what makes it so popular today. Through this book the author gets a
picture of the historical relationship between food and identity.
84 Press Conference Mark Padoongpatt, “Flavors of Empire: Food and the Making of Thai America”
(U of California Press, 2017). (2018, February 13). Retrieved from http://newbooksnetwork.com/mark-
padoongpatt-flavors-of-empire-food-and-the-making-of-thai-america-u-of-california-press-2017/
35
CHAPTER III
THAILAND GASTRODIPLOMACY THROUGH
KITCHEN TO THE WORLD
Thailand is a country that is blessed by rich agricultural and food culture
heritage. The uniqueness also can be found on the authentic cuisine as part of the
country’s culture, which has become the pride of Thailand as a country, as well as its
people.85 Thailand cuisine, which is identic with the balance combination of sweet,
sour, spicy, and salty, has the ability to spoil and gives satisfaction to those who tastes
it. Thailand cuisine also supported by the diverse agriculture and natural resources
exist within the country that being used to develop the cuisine itself.86
Aware of the potential of the country’s authentic cuisine, the government
continuously conducted efforts in promoting the country’s cuisine to the world,
through the practice of gastrodiplomacy. The practice of gastrodiplomacy aims to
promote Thai cuisine all over the world, as the cuisine itself is believed to be able to
represent the country in global level through its unique taste that strongly represent
Thailand’s characteristic. 87 Thailand’s government first initiative to conduct
gastrodiplomacy was done in PM Thaksin administration, with a program called
“Global Thai” the government aims to boost the number of Thai restaurant abroad.88
85 Foreign Office, The Government Public Relations Department. (n.d.). :: Thailand : Kitchen of the
World. Retrieved from http://thailand.prd.go.th/ebook2/kitchen/intro.html
86 Ibid., 87 Timothy, D. J., & Ron, A. S. (2013). Understanding heritage cuisines and tourism: identity, image,
authenticity, and change. Journal of Heritage Tourism, 8(2-3), 99-104.
doi:10.1080/1743873x.2013.767818 88 Food as Ambassador: Thailand's gastro-diplomacy. (2002). Retrieved from
https://www.economist.com/node/999687
36
The changing of administration in the country did not stop the conduct of
gastrodiplomacy, which can be seen through the continuation of gastrodiplomacy
through various programs called “Kitchen of the World” in 2002 until the ongoing
“Kitchen to the World” program under PM Yingluck Shinawatra that has been
implemented from the year of 2011.89
III.1 Introduction to Thai Cuisine
Most of the Asian cuisine evolved from the high palace, the royal members
have encouraged the revolution of authentic and fancy Thai cuisine.90 Like many of
the world's leading cuisines, the cuisine culture of Thailand also boasts of its ancient
history. Thai cuisine is a product of the transnational interactions for centuries, it is a
great balanced combination influenced by Eastern and Western. 91 Throughout the
history of Thailand, varied influences have added some other ingredients into Thai
cuisine which created a unique flavor of food.
III.1.1 The History of Thai Cuisine
The history of Thai food dates back between the 6th to 13th centuries
when Tiê-Chiu individuals originally migrated from southwest China or today known
as Yunnan. 92 Most Thai food is an adaptation of Chinese cuisine introduced to
Thailand by an ancient Chinese tribe named Tai Lü who are currently known as Laos
and live in the northern regions of Thailand, Vietnam, and Myanmar. Chinese
immigrants inherited a reach variety of ingredients and food source, they raised and
farmed like cows, chickens, ducks, pigs, vegetables and fruits. Many natural spices
are mixed in Thai cuisine such as fish sauce, ginger, garlic, onion, cilantro,
89 Policy Statement of the Council of Minister Thailand. Delivered by Prime Minister Yingluck
Shinawatra to the National Assembly. 2011 90 Padoongpatt, M. (2017). Flavors of empire: Food and the making of Thai America. Oakland,
California: University of California Press 91 Ibid 92 Thai Foodie. (2013). History of Thai Food. Retrieved from http://whatisthaifood.com/history-of-
thai-food/
37
lemongrass, shrimp paste and tamarind. Chinese people also introduced how to make
noodles, but since Thailand is a rice-producing country, Thai people start making rice
noodles. The Thai cuisine originally came from China such as rad na, khao kha moo
and khao mun gai using fresh herbs and spices.
In the Sukhothai Kingdom era around 1238-1448, people learned the food
preservation.93 They began to preserve excess foods such as fish, meat, vegetables
were dried, fermented and salted for consumption when needed. In the rise of
Ayutthaya Kingdom, the Silk Road helped connect Asia to the European countries.94
Arab, Chinese, Japanese, Indians, Persians, European countries and closed neighbors
to exchanged goods and services.
In the 13th century, foreign trade brought even greater influence on Thai
cuisine. Unlike most other ancient cultures, Thailand did not close themselves of the
borders. Thailand was very receptive to change, increasing trade with other countries
that brought in foreign ideas in cooking style, spices, ingredients and cooking
utensils.95 The location of Thailand, formerly called Siam, on ancient East-West trade
crossroads and various shipping routes carried the heavily influenced by Persian and
Arab culture on religion, culture and cuisine. In the 15th century, Buddhist monks
who introduced curry from India and Khmer cooks teached Royal Thai cooks to make
Indian food to Ayutthaya cooks with turmeric, chili, coriander, cumin and other
Indian spices. India's strong influence on Thai cuisine is on yellow curry and
Massaman curry.96
During the reign of Ayutthaya, the authorities allow foreigners flocked and
stayed in Siam. The western influence in Thailand began in the early of 16th century
93 Higham, C., & Thosarat, R. (1998). Prehistoric Thailand: From early settlement to Sukhothai.
London: Thames and Hudson. 94 Ibid., 95 Van Esterik, P. (1992). From Marco Polo to McDonald's. Food and Foodways, 5(2), 177-193.
Retrieved from http://laps-dept.apps01.yorku.ca/anth/faculty/esterik/documents/1992MarcoPolo.pdf
96 Ibid.,
38
with the arrival of the Portuguese, then entered the British, Dutch, French and
Spanish expansionists. 97 Thai cuisine is also known for its spicy blend between
sweetness and red chilies introduced by Portuguese missionaries. Though not all Thai
dishes use chili, this is the most influential Thai cuisine introduction that global
people know today. While other Western countries in 17th century brought some other
important ingredients such as saffron, cumin and turmeric precisely during the fall of
spice trade.98
In every foreign influence, at the same time, it has kept its cuisine arts
distinctive. The Thai people added a pinch of their own originality by using local
ingredients such as galangal (Thai ginger), lemongrass and Thai holy basil which
gives a special flavor to any Thai cuisine. Now all the transformations and good
improvements of the culinary culture over the years have resulted in what is today
regarded as one of the best cuisines in the world. Thai cuisine has never been brought
out of the border before, in 1960s at the beginning of the explosion of Thailand's
tourism industry, foreign people come in large numbers and expose the richness of
Thai culture.99 At the moment, foreign tourist exposed Thai cuisine that offers a taste
symphony for the first time.
The beginning of the globalization of Thai food began with US intervention in
Southeast Asia on the post-World War II.100 The American considered themselves as
members of a global community that tried to build good relationships through cultural
exchange and understanding.101 The US made a global expansion to build political,
economic, social and cultural relationships to influence the daily life of other
countries. To this day, Thailand is proud to be a distinctive country in Southeast Asia,
97 Van Esterik, P. (1992). From Marco Polo to McDonald's. Food and Foodways, 5(2), 177-193.
Retrieved from http://laps-dept.apps01.yorku.ca/anth/faculty/esterik/documents/1992MarcoPolo.pdf 98 L Punyaratabandhu, L. (2017). Bangkok: Stories and recipes from the heart of Thailand. 99 Padoongpatt, M. (2017). Flavors of empire: Food and the making of Thai America. Oakland,
California: University of California Press.
100 Ibid., 101 Ibid.,
39
the only country that avoids Western colonization. 102 As the new global leader,
Thailand became a major potential base for the US to combat US’ global free-market
capitalist aspirations at that time. The US has made a great deal of effort through
cultural exchange, economic and military aid solely to win the hearts of Thai
society.103
III.1.2 The Globalization of Thai Food and Cuisine
The Vietnam War era is the significant period in the close relations history
between Thailand and United States. Both of countries fought together the
Communism threats that spread in Southeast Asia.104 For Thailand, the US provided
protection from the communist external threats that were heating up in neighboring
countries, while for the US, Thailand was a stronghold of anti-communism and
became the US prime base during the Vietnam war. Thai and US interactions
increased when American soldiers came for vacation during Vietnam War and
became the Rest and Recuperation (R & R) for US soldiers in Bangkok. The
Americans were accustomed to products such as Coca-Cola or other fast-food
products, at this level enabling many Americans to have new experiences when
discover exotic Thai cuisine for the first time.105 When Americans eat Thai cuisine,
they also eat relations of power, devouring the representation of Thai culture
richness.106
US military operations overseas always lead to numbers of US immigration.
The American soldiers formed relationship with Thai women, whether it be for
102 Van Esterik, P. (1992). From Marco Polo to McDonald's. Food and Foodways, 5(2), 177-193.
Retrieved from http://laps-dept.apps01.yorku.ca/anth/faculty/esterik/documents/1992MarcoPolo.pdf 103 The United States and Thailand, Alliance Dynamics, 1950-1985 by R. Sean Randolph. Institute of
East Asian Studies University of California, Berkeley.
http://digitalassets.lib.berkeley.edu/ieas/IEAS_12_0002.pdf 104 Padoongpatt, M. (2017). Flavors of empire: Food and the making of Thai America. Oakland,
California: University of California Press. 105 Ibid., 106 Ibid.,
40
friendship, sex but also many of them ended in cross-cultural marriage.107 The Thai
immigration began with a group of wives of the American soldiers to Los Angeles
and brought their food practices with them.108 At that time, Thai immigrants cook to
meet their daily needs. Then they started building small Thai restaurants to meet the
needs of other Thai immigrants and bring them closer to home, also wives cooking
Thai cuisine as a way to make money.109
But since the 1965 Amendment to the US Immigration and Nationality Act,
immigration from Asia especially Thailand increased tripled.110 The 70s to the 80s is
when the Thai culinary culture really flourish in the US, precisely Los Angeles. The
interaction between Thai food, identity and community is getting stronger in the US.
Thai cuisine was attracted American as a healthy, non-fattening diet and very tasty at
the same time. Thai food appears a powerful medium to spread knowledge about
Thailand country, the people and Thai culture in the US.
The art of Thai cuisine that shows multiculturalism benefits the Thai people in
Los Angeles. The exoticism in the cuisine gives a positive presentation. Ethnic
restaurants are the only means for Americans to interact significantly with the
cultures of other countries. The culinary industry in US is profitable because the
people are very enthusiastic about the growth of culture and try new foods, especially
if the food can give a deep impression.111 As time goes by Thai cuisine became more
popular and Thai restaurants began to grow. Thai food has become one of America’s
107 Yoo, D., & Azuma, E. (2016). The Oxford handbook of Asian American history. New York, NY:
Oxford University Press. 108 Ibid.,
109 Padoongpatt, M. (2017). Flavors of empire: Food and the making of Thai America. Oakland,
California: University of California Press. 110 Chia, J. (2017, October). True 'Larb', The Food Delights US. Retrieved from
https://www.pressreader.com/thailand/bangkok-post/20171015/281505046446020 111 Ray, K. (2016). The Ethnic Restaurateur. London: Bloomsbury Academic, an imprint of
Bloomsbury Publishing, Plc.
41
fastest growing cuisines along with the Indian, Vietnam. Driven by a wave of
immigrants and the more daring tastes of young diners.
In the early 1990s there were over 200 Thai restaurants just located in Los
Angeles.112 During that time the Thai government has always kept an eye on the
growing popularity of Thai food sales in US. In the early 2000s the marketing of Thai
food sales began to echoed globally as Thailand's economic and political strategy
through campaigning.113 Los Angeles was the first trial location to authenticate the
people interest towards Thai cuisine, the response from LA people at Thai restaurant
and food festivals might have provided intuitive and anecdotal evidence to the Thai
government that Thai cuisine has the potential for success worldwide.114
According to Mr. Goanpot Asvinchit Thailand’s deputy commerce minister
told to the Wall Street Journal, Thai cuisine is popular in some parts of America, but
it's already distorted and not traditional anymore.115 To improve the distortions and
meet the demands of Americans, the government will launch a food approach through
the spread of Thai restaurants in America and send dozens of trained Thai chefs
abroad, help launch a culinary training center, form a large network of food and
tableware suppliers, and hold many cooking and food fairs around the world. 116
Finally, the Royal Thai government took steps to formalize the policies of Global
Thai in 2002 to introduce people in the US to authentic Thai cuisine and improve its
quality. In the implementation of the policy, the government began to promote the
procurement, production and consumption of authentic Thai food to provide a deeper
understanding of the Thai people philosophy. According to the Royal Thai Consul
General in LA, Thai cuisine is increasingly popular and spread to California as well
112 Van Esterik, P. (1992). From Marco Polo to McDonald's. Food and Foodways, 5(2), 177-193.
Retrieved from http://laps-dept.apps01.yorku.ca/anth/faculty/esterik/documents/1992MarcoPolo.pdf. 113 Padoongpatt, M. (2017). Flavors of empire: Food and the making of Thai America. Oakland,
California: University of California Press. 114 Ibid., 115 The Wall Street Journal. (n.d.). Thai Government Plans 3,000 RestaurantsIn U.S. and Elsewhere to
Promote Nation. Retrieved from https://www.wsj.com/articles/SB981416480713537865
116 Ibid.,
42
as western states. In 2003, restaurants spread throughout the world of 6,873,
including 49% in the US and Canada, 20% in Europe, 15% in Australia and New
Zealand, 14% in Asia and 2% in other countries.117
III.2 The “Kitchen to the World” Program under Yingluck
Administration 2011-2014
Thai restaurants are spreading all over the world today, this globalization of
Thai cuisine in recent decades has also been initiated by the government's role.
Policies on preserving ancient cultures including a country's culinary culture and
promoting them abroad are essential part of economic and political development. The
food industry is one of Thailand's main sectors driving the nation's economic growth.
In 2002 the Thai government formally adopted Gastrodiplomacy which can be seen
through The Economist article with the launching of “Global Thai” program in 2002
and “Kitchen of the World” initiative as the development of the initial program.118
The aim is to promote Thai culture to the foreign community and is expected to
stimulate the growth of tourism and enhance diplomatic relations with other nations.
Continuing the previous government policy of Global Thai, stated in Policy
Statement under Prime Minister Yingluck Shinawatra, a program called “Thai
Kitchen to the World” is released to promote Thai food culture and Thai food
products all over the globe. In addition to introducing Thai culture, this project aims
to significantly and sustainably increase food safety awareness under changing world
condition and produces high quality food that complies with international standards at
competitive prices. 119 As the main target of this policy, the government plans to
117 Sunanta, S. (2005). The Globalization of Thai Cuisine. Canadian Council for Southeast Asian
Studies Conference, York University, Toronto. 118 Food as Ambassador: Thailand's gastro-diplomacy. (2002). Retrieved from
https://www.economist.com/node/999687 119 Varanyanond, W. (n.d.). Fostering Food Culture with Innovation: OTOP and Thai Kitchen to the
World. Institute of Food Research and Product Development, Kasetsart University.
43
increase the number of Thai restaurants overseas which will boost the annual export
of the Thai food industry as stated in the policy statement 2011:120
Support Thai investment overseas in areas where Thai entrepreneurs have
potential opening of branches abroad and fostering relationships with foreign
agents and partners in order to establish strong Thai business networks
overseas; promote and support setting up of Thai restaurants by Thai
nationals abroad, in line with the ‘Thai Kitchen to the World’ and ‘Thailand:
Kitchen of the World’ policies.121
During the working visit to the United States on 2012, Prime Minister
Yingluck Shinawatra opened Thai Restaurant Week in New York to promote Thai
food in the US and the program of Kitchen to the World. PM Yingluck said it aimed
to produce and export more food for the world market in order to contribute to global
food security. This program would be a major contribution to a world facing food
challenges due to climate change. 122 The government is scheduling long-term
promotion of Kitchen to the World project and demonstrating Thai cuisine by Thai
chefs to educate foreign audiences about raw materials and Thai cooking culture, as
there is no secret to Thai cuisine. In her speech the PM also said “The correct cooking
process and the way to eat authentic Thai food will create a good image for Thai food
and stimulate foreign consumption of Thai cuisine.”
Recovery from the 1997 crisis made Thailand's economy highly export-
dependent.123 From 51.31 million ha total area of Thailand, almost half of that is for
120 MCOT. (2012, May 28). Thai PM opens "Thai Kitchen to the World" event to promote Thai food
industry - Pattaya Mail. Retrieved from http://www.pattayamail.com/thailandnews/thai-pm-opens-thai-
kitchen-to-the-world-event-to-promote-thai-food-industry-13105 121 Policy Statement of the Council of Minister Thailand. Delivered by Prime Minister Yingluck
Shinawatra to the National Assembly. 2011 122 Thai E-Newsletter. (2012). Thailand Wants to be the Kitchen for a Hungry World, PM Yingluck
says in USA. Retrieved from http://www.commercethaiusa.org/oca/archives/2458#more-2458 123 Somchai Jitsuchon, & Chalongphob Susangkarn. (2010). ADBI Working Paper Series: Thailand's Growth Rebalancing, (154). Retrieved from Asian Development Bank Institute website:
https://www.adb.org/sites/default/files/publication/156009/adbi-wp154.pdf
44
agricultural production area.124 The abundant natural resources and raw materials, the
year-round planting season, the cultural prosperity of the cuisine made Thailand
known as “The Food Basket of Asia” and the relatively low cost labor but skilled and
well-educated labor provide Thailand with competitive advantages in the food
industry.125 The food industry is an important contributor to Thailand’s economy and
has earned the country the sobriquet “Kitchen of the World”. Through the Kitchen to
the Word program, the government wants to accelerate the growth of the food
industry and ensure that Thai food served around the world is authentic.126
The strategies to lead Thailand as the “Kitchen of the World” are promoting
the exports of raw materials, processed foods (Ready-to-cook, Ready-to-eat, sauces or
seasoning) and non-food products such as tableware and decorations for Thai
restaurants and skilled labors for working overseas, as the first target of the policy,
the government plans to increase the number of Thai restaurant overseas, which could
help to boost the annual export of Thai food industry.127 The most important mission
of Thai Kitchen to the World strategy is to ensure Thai food products to meet the
safety and hygiene standards required by international regulations. Throughout these
strategies, Thailand aims to act as a real “kitchen” to serve for the world food
consumption.128 Therefore, the issues of food safety and authentic Thai food are very
important for Thai food industries to go to the world level.
The government's efforts in officially facilitating Thai culture representation
abroad by making the restaurant as an informal embassy or a center of Thai culture.
The government do not run the day-to-day operations of the company, leaving that to
the more experienced partner and department in each country. The government will
124 Ibid., 125 Foreign Office, The Government Public Relations Department. (n.d.). :: Thailand : Kitchen of the
World. Retrieved from http://thailand.prd.go.th/ebook2/kitchen/intro.html 126 The Government Public Relations Department. Increasing the Number of 'Thai Select? Restaurants
Worldwide. Retrieved from http://thailand.prd.go.th/ewt_news.php?nid=3858&filename=index 127 Varanyanond, W. (n.d.). Fostering Food Culture with Innovation: OTOP and Thai Kitchen to the
World. Institute of Food Research and Product Development, Kasetsart University.
128 Ibid.,
45
play a “strong role” in drawing up the menus, enforcing “genuine” quality and
making sure the restaurants buy at least 60% of their supplies from Thailand.
III.3 Kitchen to the World as Thailand Gastrodiplomacy
Thailand is currently the single largest food exporter in Asia and is known as
the “Kitchen of the World”. The abundance of resources, specialization,
diversification, R&D, and technological advancements have increased productivity
and have established Thailand’s reputation. 129 The scientific blending of spices,
ginger, galangal, lemongrass, and vegetables is remarkable. Thai cuisine is
considered a proud heritage of the Thai people handed down through generations,
they rightly believe it is second to none.130 Thai eating culture, the promotion of
“Thai Kitchen to the World” was one of important part of socio-economic
development in Thailand. The Kitchen of the World program began in 2002 and aims
129 Bank of Thailand. (2012). Multiplying Thai Strategic Investment in the US. Retrieved from
https://www.bot.or.th/Thai/FinancialMarkets/ThaiDirectInvestment/Documents/ThaiPaper_Final%20U
S%20embassy.pdf 130 Foreign Office, The Government Public Relations Department. (n.d.). :: Thailand : Kitchen of the
World. Retrieved from http://thailand.prd.go.th/ebook2/kitchen/intro.html
Figure 3.1: Kitchen of the World logo
46
to promote Thai food products. By creating awareness about food safety and
producing high quality food at competitive prices. Government’s strategies are
covering the whole process from finding materials to adding product value and
assisting distribution. One step towards achieving this program's promotion is to
increase the number of Thai restaurants globally by providing soft loans, overseeing
restaurant establishment, creating business relationships between Thai restaurants and
Thai food industries and helping to set up a Thai cooking school to train and supply
trained Thai chefs.131 The main strategies of Thai Kitchen to the World include:132
1. Expanding agriculture and food business
2. Adding value to agricultural produce with high-technology production
processes
3. Supporting cooperation at regional and international levels
4. Supporting Thai investments abroad, especially in building a network of a
Thai restaurants and food markets overseas
5. Conducting Thai Food Festivals overseas.
The Yingluck administration’s has set up objectives for Kitchen to the World
include:133
1. To be the leader of world food exporters with the highest creditability in
safety, health and sanitation,
2. To promote more export of raw materials and additional ingredients for Thai
recipes,
131 Ibid., 132 Varanyanond, W. (n.d.). Fostering Food Culture with Innovation: OTOP and Thai Kitchen to the
World. Institute of Food Research and Product Development, Kasetsart University.
133 Thai Food To World. Government Project. (n.d.). Retrieved from
http://www.thaifoodtoworld.com/home/governmentpol.php?&language=EN&language=TH
47
3. To encourage Thai restaurants abroad to be tourist information centres
together with the marketing of One Tambon One Product
4. To support the increase of Thai restaurant businesses abroad and push Thai
restaurant to serve authentic Thai food and international standard.
Promoting the establishment of Thai restaurants abroad is an important
agenda of the Thai government to launch a gastrodiplomacy program through the
Kitchen to the World. The government wants Thai restaurants abroad to present
authentic Thai traditional menus such as Pad Thai, Tom Yum Goong, Som Tum,
Gaeng Keow Wan Kai, or those listed in government regulations. In addition, the
restaurant is also expected to give the impression of Thai culture. Thai ethnic theming
is the way of using ethnic art, interior decor, waiter costume, goods, music, service,
name and various stereotypes to create a characterized setting which imitates Thai
exotic culture so as to represent Thailand both geographically and the culture of the
Thai people. The government hopes Thai restaurants can attract various customers for
several reasons, it can be a way to interact with Thai cultures, to experience
uniqueness or to connect with their own ethnicity for Thai visitor. Through this way,
the government hopes that visitors who come to Thai restaurants really feel the
experience of being in Thailand.
The international community's appreciation of Thai cuisine has boosted Thai
food exports and boosted Thailand's competitiveness on the international stage. This
program might be said to have good results because after the program declared the
restaurant becomes increasing every year. The positive image of Thai food has
boosted Thai restaurant business in many countries. Thai restaurants, ranging from
premium outlets to fast food, were set up by Thai people living abroad, Thai
expatriate’s wives, and former students, as well as foreigner who just fell in love with
48
Thai food.134 Currently, according to Thai Trade Center, there are about 20,000 Thai
restaurants around the world.135
III.3.1 Parties Supporting Thailand Food Industry
With the goal of preparing Thailand to become the world’s "Kitchen," it is
developing a one-stop service to produce and export Thai food and produce to the rest
of the world. This strategy is carried out in a variety of ways, run in parallel by
various government departments and collaborating with relevant public and private
sectors.136 The units that contribute to Thai Kitchen to the World are the Ministry of
Foreign Affairs, the Ministry of Commerce (Department of International Trade
Promotion), the Ministry of Labour (Department of Skills Development and
Department of Employment), the Ministry of Industry, the Ministry of Science and
Technology, the Ministry of Health, the Export-Import Bank of Thailand, the
Thailand National Food Institute, Kasetsart University.
a.) Ministry of Foreign Affairs
For public diplomacy, the Foreign Ministry is adamant about vigorously
supporting its foreign interests and citizens abroad. 137 The Thailand Ministry of
Foreign Affairs is directly involved and played an active role in promoting Thai
cuisine globally as a leading sector and facilitator in the implementation of
gastrodiplomacy.138 The Ministry seeks to establish a harmonious and constructive
relationship in conducting gastrodiplomacy activities between government as state
actors with non-state actors starting from chef, diaspora, private sector, media,
university and public layers as a whole. Each Thai embassy gets a target to keep
134 Thailand’s Best Practices and Lessons Learned in Development (Volume 1). (n.d.). Retrieved from
UNDP | Thailand International Development Cooperation Agency (TICA) website:
http://www.th.undp.org/content/dam/thailand/docs/TICAUNDPbpVol1.pdf 135 About Us: To identify Thai restaurants with authentic Thai foods. Retrieved from
http://thaiselect.com/main.php?filename=about_us
136 Foreign Office, The Government Public Relations Department. (n.d.). :: Thailand : Kitchen of the
World. Retrieved from http://thailand.prd.go.th/ebook2/kitchen/intro.html 137 Ibid 138 Cultural News and Activities, Royal Thai Embassy. Retrieved from
http://www.thaiembnepal.org.np/?do=activities&lang=en
49
increasing the number of Thai restaurants in foreign country where they are on
duty.139
The Ministry annually allocates THB 20 million or US$ 1 million budget for
promotion of Thai food and agricultural products overseas. 140 Thai Embassy
organizing Thai Food Exhibitions such as cultural events, conduct cooking demos,
establishing cooperation to forcefully promote the true Thai food culture to foreign
public. The Ministry works together with Thailand Tourism Authority, Ministry of
Culture in organizing Thai Food Exhibitions overseas. To make the exhibitions more
attractive, the local chefs in respective countries are involved to take part in the
events and conduct cooking demos. 141 The Ministry also utilizes this event to
promote Thai culture by inviting Thai Dancers to perform traditional cultural shows.
b.) Ministry of Commerce
The ministry is in charge of trade, prices of important agricultural goods, consumer
protection, entrepreneurship, insurance, intellectual property protection, exports. The
Department of International Trade Promotion (DITP) was established under the
Ministry of Commerce, Royal Thai Government, to assist in building the
competitiveness and marketing to increase the potential of Thai manufacturers and
exporters.142 The Ministry of Commerce has worked extensively on such strategies in
many countries, providing network of 61 offices world-wide (Thai Trade Centers),
including the United States, in order for Thai cuisine to be well known through Thai
restaurants selling Thai food products worldwide. In the view of the Export
Promotion Department, Thai restaurants have a good business potential that can be
139 Pujayanti, A. (2017). Gastrodiplomasi - Upaya Memperkuat Diplomasi Indonesia. Pusat Penelitian
Masalah-masalah Hubungan Internasional, Pusat Penelitian Badan Keahlian DPR, 8(1), 38-56. An
interview with Prof. Dr. Ir. Eni Harmayani, S.T.P., M.Sc. from Pusat Studi Pangan dan Gizi UGM
141 Social & Cultural Diplomatic News and Activities, Royal Thai Embassy. Retrieved from
http://www.thaiembnepal.org.np/?do=activities&lang=en 142 Foreign Office, The Government Public Relations Department. (n.d.). :: Thailand : Kitchen of the
World. Retrieved from http://thailand.prd.go.th/ebook2/kitchen/intro.html
50
developed to maintain a high level of international recognition.143 To achieve that
goal, the department is carrying out a public relations campaign to build up a good
image of the country through Thai restaurants worldwide. Thai restaurants are also
used as a channel to export Thai food and products such as dining utensils, furniture,
and handmade products.
The Department of Export Promotion (DITP), Ministry of Commerce has already
issued "Thai Select" certificates with the approval of the Ministry of Commerce to the
overseas Thai restaurants that meet the criteria of the department. It is aim to raise
international awareness and recognition of Thai food while also driving Thai
restaurants overseas and food manufacturers to step up and maintain exceptional Thai
tastes and quality for a global audience under the government’s "Kitchen of the
World” policy. The department has sought cooperation from Foreign Trade
Promotion Offices and Thai embassies in foreign countries to select restaurants
meeting the standard by enabling them to team up with a selection panel to inspect
the quality of the restaurants.144 Experienced restaurateurs will run the restaurants on
a day to day basis, but according to Thailand's deputy commerce minister, Goanpot
Asvinvichit, the government will be playing a "strong role" in the conception of the
menus, and overseeing quality.145
c.) Ministry of Labor
The Department of Skill Development, the Ministry of Labor has an
enormous role to play in advancing the Kitchen to the World project, the ministry
is responsible for coordinating and enhancing the workforce's potential to
maintain competence standards to gain international recognition and compete in
143 Ibid., 144 The Department of International Trade Promotion (DITP). About DITP. Retrieved from
https://www.thaitradefair.com/about-ditp/
145 Interview with office Thai Trade Center for USA in New York. Tuesday, March 27, 2018.
51
world markets. 146 The ministry cooperates with several institutions in the
development of courses for workers, training equipment development, and
training pattern development. Furthermore, the department sets guidelines
appropriate for the labor development of different groups; it also sets the standard
for labor development, and it controls and carries out tests for workers. The
department acts as an information center about staff development, vocational
training, labor development, and industry technology development as well. For
courses to train Thai cooks, it expects trainees to gain knowledge, skills, and good
attitudes towards Thai cooking.147 They also learn how to purchase raw materials,
store and preserve them correctly, cook food and desserts, and serve them
properly.
The labor development center provides three theoretical and practical courses.
The first course covers basic knowledge and capacity (38 hours), which is made
up of work safety, principles of food sanitation and basic knowledge about
nutrition; the second teaches key knowledge and capacity (165 hours), comprising
the purchase of raw materials and storing them, cooking equipment, and Thai
cooking; and the third course covers supportive knowledge and capacity (77
hours), which consists of introduction to computer, English at work, and readiness
for running a business.
The program totals 280 hours (two months), and after that trainees are sent to
undergo training in operational institutes for two more months. Those who can
pass the evaluation are awarded a certificate of labor development expertise in the
field of Thai cooking, and they receive a recommendation letter from the
operational institutes where they went for their extra training.
146 Foreign Office, The Government Public Relations Department. (n.d.). :: Thailand : Kitchen of the
World. Retrieved from http://thailand.prd.go.th/ebook2/kitchen/intro.html 147 Ibid.,
52
III.4 Kitchen to the World in the United States
As stated by history, American soldiers first discovered Thai food in the
1960s where they perceived an exotic culture that they borrowed freely and out of
takes off in Los Angeles.148 A wave of Thai migration to America brings Thai food
into a part of the culture there. Starting from meeting the needs of immigrants, it
becomes an alternative for saturated Americans food because they were consistently
seeking healthy alternatives for dining by eating Thai food as a healthy diet and made
Thai food has a strong position while creating an identity for Thai-American.149 Los
Angeles as the largest Thai population outside Thailand itself made the government
launch a program that known as Gastrodiplomacy with the initiative to increase the
number of restaurants there.150 Moreover, Diplomats in Washington point out that
restaurants are often the only contact that most Americans have with foreign
cultures.151 The response and interest of Americans to the growth of Thai restaurants
in the US has caused an explosion in the number of restaurants since 2002. With the
growing number of Thai restaurants, it has indirectly increased the number of Thai
food exports to the US.
Like many other countries that do business with the US, Thailand has
recognized the importance of this growing market. Thailand is currently the single
largest food exporter in Asia, for the past 10 years, Thailand has been America’s
largest supplier of shrimp and its fourth largest global supplier of fish and seafood
and US imports more food products from Thailand than from other trading
partners.152 US are also one of the top export destinations for raw materials and Thai
148 Van Esterik, P. (1992). From Marco Polo to McDonald's. Food and Foodways, 5(2), 177-193.
Retrieved from http://laps-dept.apps01.yorku.ca/anth/faculty/esterik/documents/1992MarcoPolo.pdf 149 Padoongpatt, M. (2017). Flavors of empire: Food and the making of Thai America. Oakland,
California: University of California Press 150 Ibid 151 Food as Ambassador: Thailand's gastro-diplomacy. (2002). Retrieved from
https://www.economist.com/node/999687 152 Bank of Thailand. (2012). Multiplying Thai Strategic Investment in the US. Retrieved from
https://www.bot.or.th/Thai/FinancialMarkets/ThaiDirectInvestment/Documents/ThaiPaper_Final%20U
S%20embassy.pdf
53
food products.153 According to the commerce minister at the time, Mr. Boonsong
Teriyapirom, Thailand has many opportunities, and if supported will increase the
opportunity to export more raw ingredients and food product.154 The minister has
instructed the Office of Foreign Trade Promotion in USA to encourage Thai chefs to
be hired.155 This will help Thailand's export revenue from the service sector and help
promote Thai Kitchen to the World policy success.
The Royal Thai Government through the tactics Gastrodiplomacy
intentionally reinforce the presence of Thai cuisine abroad through the establishment
of Thai restaurants to increase foreign public awareness of Thailand's existence and
the competitiveness of the country by increasing its exports and its prominence on the
cultural and diplomatic stages. Thailand governments in foreign countries such as the
Thai embassies around the world, especially in the United States also accept the task
of promoting the "Kitchen to the World" program as one of Thailand's interests.
Royal Thai Embassy of Washington DC and Royal Thai Consulate-General in Los
Angeles, New York and Chicago collaborate with Thai agencies and Thai community
regularly organizes Thai food culture promotional events in line with Thai
Government policy "Kithen to the World" to make Thailand a "Kitchen of the
World", the Thai Embassy consistently undertakes activities to improve
understanding of Thai cuisine throughout the US.
People-to-people relations have long been a cornerstone of the Thai-U.S. good
relations. The Thai Embassy has made efforts to promote ties between Americans and
Thailand and to promote understanding about Thailand and its rich culture among
153 Thailand: Feeding the World. (2014). Retrieved from Board of Investment of Thailand website:
http://www.boi.go.th/tir/issue/201408_24_8/42.htm 154 Srivalo, P. (2013). Thai-EU FTA deal within two years - The Nation. Retrieved from
http://www.nationmultimedia.com/business/Thai-EU-FTA-deal-within-two-years-30201423.html 155 Another Step towards making Thailand “Kitchen of the World”: Inauguration of International Thai
Chef Association | Royal Thai Embassy. (n.d.). Retrieved from
https://www.thaiembassy.sg/activities/another-step-towards-making-thailand-“kitchen-of-the-world”-
inauguration-of-international
54
Americans. The Thai cuisine promotion activity is an agenda of the Embassy which
aims to increase the popularity of Thai cuisine, Thai artistic arts and Thai culture
among Americans. As stated by the ambassador of Thailand, Mr Bhakavat Tanskul:
We strongly believe that people-to-people contact is one of the
effective ways to promote closer relationship between two countries. Food is a
part of our culture. The better you know about Thai food means the better you
know about us, your Thai friend. Or we can call that this is our Thai Food
Diplomacy. 156
Establishment of Thai restaurant abroad is one of the Thai government's
strategies to promote its cooking culture. The Ministry of Labor is responsible for
preparing the Thai chef to be sent abroad. By 2014, 516 Thai chefs have been
promoted to work abroad through national labour skills assessments.157 Thai chefs are
prepared by attend Thai national cooking school, training on restaurant management,
and also equipped with skills, knowledge, international standards and language skills
of each country. This effort will also provide an enhanced standard in Thai cuisine. In
2011, through the Thai Chef to the World event, Lost Angeles first hosts five of the
best Thai chefs in the world to host cooking classes for both Thai and non Thai
communities.158 This agenda features Thai cuisine creativity through cooking classes
and serves Thai flavors around the world. In addition to promoting Thai cuisine, this
activity also aims to enhance the skills of professional chefs and increase the number
of authentic Thai restaurants abroad.
III.5 Maintaining the Authenticity of Thai Cuisine to Promote
Thailand Identity
Thai culinary culture is very complex with a tremendous diversity. The label
of "Thai cuisine" reflects the way other people realize that it belongs to the culinary
156 Social & Cultural News and Activities, Royal Thai Embassy. Retrieved from
http://www.thaiembnepal.org.np/?do=activities&lang=en 157 Ministry of Labour. Thailand and English Promote Standards of Thai Chefs |
กกกกกกกกกกกกก. Retrieved from http://www.mol.go.th/en/content/52363/1470586525 158 Thai Trade Center USA. Five Top Thai Chefs of the World Will Demonstrate their Skills in USA in
July. Retrieved from http://www.thaitradeusa.com/home/?p=2478
55
identity of Thai society in a broader cultural context. Evolved by the royal palace, the
development of Thai culinary culture reflects how Thai society views themselves in
terms of social class, community relations and its national identity.159 The influence
of transnational interactions in the formation of Thai gastronomy culture also reflects
how Thai society interacts with the outside world and modernity.160 Thai cuisine is
based on attention to detail, texture, color, taste and use of materials with medical
benefits also appearance and aroma. Authenticity is the key to a delicious Thai
cuisine that many locals are passionate that s now known worldwide and has grown
rapidly around the world over the last years. As the PM Yingluck too often found that
the food he tasted in Thai restaurants abroad did not deserve to be called as genuine
Thai cuisine, she fed up with poor Thai food so as to raise it in the cabinet meeting.
The predominant motivation for the program, according to the government is the
frustration caused by the fact that people cooking Thai food abroad just are not doing
it right. There are too many western distortions in what purports to be Thai cuisine
which is potentially damage the reputation of Thai cuisine against foreigners. In a
local newspaper columnist Thairath expressed his concern about Thai food abroad
and his support for the Kitchen of the World project:
The biggest problem of Thai food overseas today is the fact that there
are numerous Thai restaurants run by non-Thai owners that produce the
imitation of Thai food. Foreigners who eat in these restaurants misunderstand
that the pseudo Thai food is actually the Thai taste and the real Thai taste (in
a real Thai restaurant) is not authentic. It’s time to let the world experience
real authentic Thai food. 161
159 Wongcha-Um, P. (2010). What is Thai Cuisine? Thai Culinary Identity Construction From The
Rise of the Bangkok Dynasty to Its Revival (Master's thesis, National University of Singapore).
Retrieved from https://thaifoodmaster.com/what-is-thai-cuisine#.Wt861duB3MI
160 Foreign Office, The Government Public Relations Department. (n.d.). :: Thailand : Kitchen of the
World. Retrieved from http://thailand.prd.go.th/ebook2/kitchen/intro.html 161 Sunanta, S. (2005). The Globalization of Thai Cuisine. Canadian Council for Southeast Asian
Studies Conference, York University, Toronto.
56
It is important for Thailand to maintain the authenticity of the Kingdom’s cuisine;
authenticity not just on how the food tastes and is presented but also in maintaining
the traditions in the way it is cooked, and the ingredients used.
III.5.1 Serving Thai Food and Cuisine in the United States
The growth of Thai restaurants in America has always been a benchmark for the
Thai government. Los Angeles is a center for the development of Thai cuisine
overseas as well as a trial site in the Thai Gastrodiplomacy campaign through Global
Thai in the 2000s.162 In addition, the United States is the country with the largest Thai
restaurant population in the world. Thai cuisine is popular in some parts of America,
but what served in the US is inauthentic and distorted, it does not represent the
cultural value in Thai cuisine.163 The tastes may also differ because of preparation
techniques and using slightly different ingredients, either because the Thai ingredient
is not available, too expensive, or the cooks did not know any better.164
Thai cuisine uses distinctive ingredients, moreover some dishes require the spices
and seasoning that not always available in the US. For example, Thai Holy basil is
very important for Thai cuisine is also not widely grown in the US and restaurants
should be replaced with other types. Furthermore, fish sauce (nam plaa) is an
extremely important ingredient in Thai cooking and is used generously in almost
every dish. In addition, expensive import costs may only use local or cheaper
materials and ultimately serve less authentic foods.
In America, often, traditional Thai food becomes Americanized.165 Thai recipes in
the US tend to be modified because the restaurant adjust cooking with what they
162 Padoongpatt, M. (2017). Flavors of empire: Food and the making of Thai America. Oakland,
California: University of California Press. 163 The Wall Street Journal. (n.d.). Thai Government Plans 3,000 RestaurantsIn U.S. and Elsewhere to
Promote Nation. Retrieved from https://www.wsj.com/articles/SB981416480713537865 164 Original Foodie with Chef Jet Tila [Video file]. (2017, June 23). Retrieved from
https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=GCjh1iwIAjk 165 Padoongpatt, M. (2017). Flavors of empire: Food and the making of Thai America. Oakland,
California: University of California Press.
57
believe that Americans prefer. For example, Thai food has spicy flavor specialties but
Americans are not familiar with the spicy flavor and the use of strong spices so they
add a lot of sugar or replace chili with peppers or eliminate it, of course it will be
different. only a few Americans have a deep understanding of it, perhaps only those
who have traveled to Thailand are aware of it.
Most of the cooks of Thai cuisine in US have no enough skill to meet the Royal
Thai cooks standard, most of them are not Thai and have not necessarily studied Thai
cuisine directly and it is crucial to serve Thai food to many people. A great Thai chef
is in Thailand, according to Blue Elephant restaurant owners at the time, not many
Thai workers are eligible or have work visa permits that can be employed. Finally, in
general, most cuisines in America are less appreciated.166
Thailand’s have complex cooking styles, flavours and unique dishes. The Thai have a
saying, “Gan gin gan yu” “as you eat, so you are”, which is reflective of how
166 Padoongpatt, M. (2017). Flavors of empire: Food and the making of Thai America. Oakland,
California: University of California Press.
Figure 3.2 Som Tam (Left) and Pad Thai (Right) – Thailand Thai food and American
Thai food
58
integral food is to Thai culture and identity. It is perfectly encapsulates their approach
to food.167
III.5.2 Maintaining Authenticity by “Thai Select”
Thai food has grown rapidly among foreign consumers and makes it one of
the world's most popular. Exotic, delicious and healthy Thai food is not just a meal,
but a culinary experience. To achieve this and further promote the Thai food industry
for the sustainable growth, Thai Select is established. 168 It is a seal of approval
granted to Thai restaurants overseas that serve authentic Thai food, and processed
Thai food products. The objective is to increase the recognition of quality Thai
restaurants and processed Thai food products as well as to encourage Thai
restauranteurs and food producers to raise their quality while maintaining
authenticity.169 Thai Select is part of the government’s “Thai Kitchen to the World”
project, first introduced in 2006 and re-launched by Prime Minister Yingluck in 2011
to boost the cuisine’s international appeal, educate and enhance the popularity of
authentic Thai cuisines around the world. To maintain the image and identity of Thai
food in the local and global market;170
“The “Thai Select” project was originated from the Prime Minister wishing
to have authentic taste of Thai food and to promote Thai food in both food
service business and industry sectors to the international arena. Supported by
the international principles such as standard certification and scientific
methods, Thai flavors will develop its credibility and assure its identity. To
promote the real tastes of Thai food, scientific data and senses of Thai flavor
are used to set standard in a range of acceptable values. Because consumers
167 Tsai, M., Liew, C., & Ling, K. F. (2002). The food of Asia: Featuring authentic recipes from master
chefs in Burma, China, India, Indonesia, Japan, Korea, Malaysia, the Philippines, Singapore, Sri
Lanka, Thailand, and Vietnam. Singapore: Periplus. 168 Thai restaurants in U.S. Bestowed with the “Thai Select” Award; the Seal of Quality « Thai Trade
Center, USA. (2012). Retrieved from http://www.thaitradeusa.com/home/?p=13384
169 Thai Select Restaurants. (n.d.). Retrieved from
http://www.thaiselect.com/main.php?filename=mabout 170 “Authentic Thai Food for the World” to Upgrade “Rod Thai Tae” Food Standard Worldwide. Retrieved from http://www.travelthaiculture.com/authentic-thai-food-for-the-worldto-upgrade-rod-
thai-tae-food-standard-worldwide/
59
in different countries may have different preferences of flavors, it can be
adapted accordingly if it is in the range of standard.”171
Under the DITP, Ministry of Commerce, Royal Thai Government, awarded
Thai Select certificates to Thai restaurants abroad serving authentic Thai cuisine in a
pleasant atmosphere, and with renowned Thai hospitality. Under the Thai Select
project, a Thai restaurant that meets Ministry standards will be supported by a
certificate to ensure quality food and quality service. The objective of Thai Select are
to recognize an endorse quality Thai restaurants and increase the recognition of
quality Thai restaurant. Moreover, Thai Select aims to encourage Thai restaurateurs
to raise their quality standards so that they are at an international level. 172 The
program is also expected to provide understanding to foreign public about the real
Thai cuisine culture which become the identity and pride of Thailand.173
“To enjoy the real Thai dining, you don’t actually need to be in Thailand. But
how can you ensure that you get the real experience? Simply look for the
“Thai Select” logo from Royal Thai Government. It assures you that delicious
Thai cuisine is being served in a pleasant atmosphere, and with a famous Thai
smile. It's not just a meal ; it's a journey into Thai culture.”174
The certification of Thai SELECT restaurant is divided into two categories based on
decoration and service excellence :175
171 Ibid., 172 Interview with Office of Commercial Affairs, Royal Thai Embassy. Washington D.C. Wednesday,
11 April 2018
173 Ibid., 174 Thai Select Restaurants. (n.d.). Retrieved from
http://www.thaiselect.com/main.php?filename=mabout 175 Thai Select Aplication Process. (n.d.). Retrieved from
http://www.thaiselect.com/DITP_THAISELECT/program/file_upload/document/Application_form_ba
dge.pdf
60
Thai SELECT PREMIUM indicates a degree of excellence of 5-star or higher.
The label is granted to restaurants that offer authentic Thai food of premium
quality with luxury decorations and outstanding services.
Thai SELECT indicates a degree of excellence of 3 to 4-stars, awarded to
restaurants serving fine authentic Thai foods.
Figure 3.3: "Thai Select Premium" and "Thai Select" Logo
According to the Thai DITP, which run the Thai Select program, there are 568
Thai Select restaurant all over the US. Underlying these efforts is a brand of cultural
identity that has come to define Thai nationalism today. Thailand has given an
important role to restaurant owners, chefs and diaspora as non-state actors and make
Thai restaurant as an unofficial embassy, where Thailand becomes more
represented.176 The restaurant can provide the possibility for cultural interaction as
the information center for foreign public and this is where the opportunity for public
culinary diplomacy is established.177
176 Thailand, Asia’s New Culinary Crown. (2016, March 4). Retrieved from
http://thaiembdc.org/2016/03/04/thailand-asias-new-culinary-crown/
177 Sokol, S. C. (2012). Culinary Diplomacy: Breaking Bread to Win Hearts and Minds. The Hague
Journal of Diplomacy 8, 161-183.
61
To obtain a Thai Select certificate, the government has set several qualifications.178
To be eligible for certification, restaurants must meet the following criteria:
• Restaurant must have been in operation at least six months prior to the date of
application.
• At least 60 percent of dishes offered on the menu must be authentic Thai cuisine
and the cooking methods must be the same or very similar to those in Thailand.
• Head chefs may be either Thai or other nationalities. In case of non-Thai Head
Chefs, the chefs must produce proof of at least a 2-year experience in cooking
Thai foods or possess a Thai cuisine training certificate from an accredited
institution.
As stated by Chef Jet Tila, the first Ambassador of Thai Cuisine in Los Angeles,
"Having something like Thai Select program makes it straightforward: we have the
Thai government backing our claim".179 In some Thai Select restaurant assessments,
DITP also sets non-food requirements to create an authentic atmosphere inside a
restaurant. Thailand is often called the “Land of Smiles,” not only its natural beauty
and historical riches, but also because of the country’s friendly people and fascinating
culture.180
By emphasizing service and decoration, restaurateurs organize their waitresses
wear Thai style uniform such as silk dresses, Thai style menu design using Thai
language, traditional Thai greeting. Thai style tableware/silverware, authentic Thai
music, and real authentic Thai exterior and interior design. Restaurateurs usually
178 Thai restaurants in U.S. Bestowed with the “Thai Select” Award; the Seal of Quality « Thai Trade
Center, USA. (2012). Retrieved from http://www.thaitradeusa.com/home/?p=13384
179 Original Foodie with Chef Jet Tila [Video file]. (2017, June 23). Retrieved from
https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=GCjh1iwIAjk 180 Tourism Thailand | Amazing Thailand - Land Of SmilesTourism Thailand | Amazing Thailand.
(n.d.). Retrieved from http://www.tourismthailand.com
62
prepare their employee the knowledge regarding Thai food and culture and
communication skills since Thai people believe that storytelling would increase
multicultural awareness and diversity respect among their culture. Moreover, in some
big Thai restaurants, within a certain time, the restaurant will feature traditional
performances such as dance, theater and traditional music performances.
With an emphasis on authenticity of cuisine and atmosphere, it is the Thai people
way to boast and preserve its culture. Through the restaurant, the government seeks to
bring parts of Thailand into restaurants abroad beyond geographical boundaries, this
is the core of Thai gastrodiplomacy.
63
Figure 3.5: Authentic Thai restaurant interior design
Figure 3.4: Authentic Thai restaurant service
Figure 3.6: Traditional Performance in Thai Restaurant
64
III.6 The Kitchen to the World Program and Americans Eating
Habit
Fast food is part of the American lifestyle, but eating too much fast food can
have health consequences. A number of studies have linked fast food to health
problems, including an increased risk of obesity, poor nutrition, diabetes, heart
disease, and stroke. Currently, eating habits trend in US has turned to healthy food
consumption. This change has given rise to an increasing public awareness of healthy
issues. Poor diet causes nearly half of all US deaths due to heart disease, stroke and
diabetes. The research is based on U.S. government data showing there are almost
1,000 deaths from these causes alone, every day and on an analysis of national health
surveys that asked participants about their eating habits.181 Along with awareness of
disease has come public education about dietary trend. The United States Department
of Agriculture (USDA) recommends consumers maintain a nutritious and balanced
diet. however, US consumers have made an effort to eat more fruits and vegetables
and made small changes to achieve an overall healthy diet.182
At one level, this meant a saturation of American food products on fast food
into diets of Thai population. America needs to a healthy diet, these are consistent
with the traditional Thai eating pattern. Thai eating customs do not share many
similarities with the American customs, in most respects the eating style is quite
different. A CNN report notes that Thai cuisine ranks in the top 10 of healthy diets.183
Thai food popularity among millennials, one of the fastest growing segments of the
181 Davis, D. R., Epp, M. D., & Riordan, H. D. (2004). Changes in USDA Food Composition Data for
43 Garden Crops, 1950 to 1999. Journal of the American College of Nutrition, 23(6), 669-682.
doi:10.1080/07315724.2004.10719409 182 U.S. Department of Agriculture, & U.S. Department of Health and Human Services.
(2010). Dietary Guidelines for Americans. Retrieved from USDA website:
https://health.gov/dietaryguidelines/dga2010/DietaryGuidelines2010.pdf 183 The 10 healthiest ethnic cuisines - CNN.com. (2010). Retrieved from
http://edition.cnn.com/2010/HEALTH/08/25/healthiest.ethnic.cuisines/index.html
65
restaurant market. According to Edelman Digital, some 23% of millennials say they
eat Thai food regularly.184
The special quality of Thai food is its ability to reflect three key values –
nutritional, cultural, and medical with the use of fresh ingredients, well-trained
natural talent in cooking methods and presentation techniques, and the generous use
of herbs and spices. Thai food is a harmonious combination of tastes and medicinal
qualities, as the ingredients are mainly vegetables and herbs. According to Health,
traditional Thai food is not only abundant in spice, it's also got some benefits: spicy
food can help slow down the eating process, causing you to eat more slowly and feel
fuller more quickly.185
It is rather interesting to note that amongst all the world cuisines available in
the US, it is indeed the Thai cuisine that renders consistency in form of a healthy and
well balanced diet.186 This is certainly because Thai food is an amalgamation of
numerous varying elements from across the continents by including all the best and
healthy options and leaving out the not so healthy ones.187 Not only that but Thai
cuisine comprises of a flurry of seafood, fish, salads which are all brilliant
alternatives to red meat dishes. Overall Thai cuisine offers meals which are pretty
much balanced for a healthy diet. Another enormous selling point for Thai food is its
healthy approach to ingredients, providing a welcome choice for consumers who
desire improved nutrition. Health professionals have long stressed the advantages of a
plant-derived diet, with a reduced focus on meats, in producing lower incidence of
heart disease and cancer. Herbs play an important role in Thai cooking and the health-
184 Why is Thai food so popular? (n.d.). Retrieved from https://thaiexpressfranchise.com/research/why-
is-thai-food-popular/ 185 HEALTH. (2013, May 7). World's Best Superfoods. Retrieved from
http://www.health.com/health/article/0,,20429860,00.html 186 In Farrer, J. (2015). The globalization of Asian cuisines: Transnational networks and culinary
contact zones.
187 Foreign Office, The Government Public Relations Department. (n.d.). :: Thailand : Kitchen of the
World. Retrieved from http://thailand.prd.go.th/ebook2/kitchen/intro.html
66
giving properties of plants such as garlic (Krat-thiam), holy basil (Ka-phrao), mint
(Sa-ra-nae) and lemongrass (Takhrai) is often stressed.188
Eating Thai food in a restaurant does not necessarily serve traditional foods
that prioritize nutrition and ingredients, but Thai Select restaurant is sure to serve a
healthy, traditional Thai cuisine menu. The Thai Select is a seal of approval from
Thailand's Ministry of Commerce that ensures authenticity and quality Thai cuisine
around the world. It is based on a vigorous assessment of health and food safety,
proportion of Thailand-imported ingredients, dish characteristics, and finally, the
Chef's background.189 Thai Select strives to serve a healthy, traditional Thai cuisine
menu. The healthy menu is where everything is gluten free, no MSG and no saturated
fats, and which highlights the health benefits of various Thai herbs and ingredients.190
Authentic Thai food has unique spices, and sauces that seem to please many people,
offering a new flavor, less saturated fat. Healthy yet delicious food, that's why Thai
restaurants are so popular everywhere, all over the world, including the US.
188 Foreign Office, The Government Public Relations Department. (n.d.). :: Thailand : Kitchen of the
World. Retrieved from http://thailand.prd.go.th/ebook2/kitchen/intro.html 189 Sornsaruht, P., & Sawmong, S. (2017). Antecedents of Thai Select restaurant loyalty in the United
Kingdom. Retrieved from
190 Ibid.,
67
CHAPTER IV
THE IMPLEMENTATION OF KITCHEN TO THE
WORLD PROGRAM IN THE UNITED STATES
IV.1 Food and Diplomacy
Food is always present in everyday of human life as a necessity and being
developed through human creativity that includes cross-cultural activity. One that
Koentjaraningrat conveys as one of the cultural systems is livelihood systems to get
the goods and services. In other words, the economic system is to produce, and to
distribute by collecting food, farming, raising, hunting, trading and others. 191
Therefore, food has taken part of the cultural aspects of a community group, because
each group or more broadly, a nation has its peculiarity to its cuisine that makes every
food has its own historical and philosophical value. 192 The diversity and
distinctiveness of food or culinary of any ethnics or communities is closely related to
the environment and social conditions. Food, cuisine, traditions, values and practices
serve as a marker of the cultural and social aspects of individual and community
identity.193 Throughout history, food has become a part of community or group that
belongs to different culture and ethnic. It makes variety of food that belongs to varies
communities exist and both created and served based on their own characteristic.
Such thing is connected with the term gastronomy. According to Fossali, gastronomy
is an appreciation of “the art of good eating” that studies on the relationship between
culture and eating, it also studies various cultural components with food as its
191 Kuncaraningrat. (2000). Kebudayaan, mentalitas dan pembangunan: Bunga rampai (p. 16). 192 Baskoro, R. M. (2017). Konseptualisasi dalam Gastro Diplomasi: Sebuah Diskusi Kontemporer
dalam Hubungan Internasional. 193 Parasecoli, F. (2014). Food, Identity, and Cultural Reproduction in Immigrant Communities.
68
object. 194 The role of gastronomy is the basis for understanding how food and
beverage are used in certain situations. Universally gastronomy makes it possible to
construct an overview of approaches or behaviors to foods and beverages used in
different countries and cultures.195
“Tell me what you eat, and I will tell you who you are” that phrase from a
French gastronome, Jean Anthelme Brillat-Savarin, can be interpreted from
someone's eating habits and the type of food they eat, that will resulted prediction of
where they come from. Food is the cultural identity that has the ability to represent a
nation. Such thing can be recognized very easily as it relates to lifestyle elements. For
instance, when people hear Tom Yam, the first picture that came to their mind is a
soup that tasted sour, spicy, and a country that is famous for pagodas and elephants.
Resulting the idea that Tom Yam is Thailand. Similarly when people hear dumpling,
sushi, spaghetti, ceviche, etc. From culinary we also know the habits of Chinese or
Japanese eating with chopsticks, as well pasta is the Italian traditional cuisine and
Peruvian like to put citrus juice on their dish.
Since 1900, academics began studying food to see its contribution, especially
to the political disciplines that began introducing food issues as the basis of political
science for the sustainability and proliferation of a modern nation state. 196
Morgenthau proposed the idea of a state's "Power of Prestige", which is a proto-
conceptualization of how political elites use cultural diplomacy and soft power in
diplomacy to achieve their goals.197 One example of the power of prestige is food as a
194 Fossali, P. B. (2008). Seven Conditions for the Gastronomic Sciences. Gastronomic Sci, 4(8), 54-
86.
195 Blood, A.J., Zatorre, R.J. (2001). Intensely pleasurable responses to music correlate with activity in
brain regions implicated in reward and emotion. Proceedings of the National Academy of Sciences,
USA, 98
196 Culinary diplomacy: The nexus of food and diplomacy, an interview with Samuel Chapple
https://www.splendidtable.org/story/culinary-diplomacy-the-nexus-of-food-and-diplomacy 197 Morgenthau 1985, Retrieved from Reynolds, Christian, Diplomatic Gastronomy: The Convivial
Nature of the Power of Prestige, Cultural Diplomacy and Soft Power (February 21, 2012). The
69
part of culture, or national cuisines to be precise, which can be used by actors and
political elites as an instrument in conducting the country’s diplomacy.
National cuisines have spread through migration, trade and globalization.
When promoting national cuisine, it can be assumed that a country is also expressing
their cultures and values.198 These forms of cultural diplomacy whether deliberate or
unintentional has been coined as Gastrodiplomacy. The terms gastrodiplomacy was
first coined in the early 2000s initiated by the Royal Thai Government with its
“Global Thai” initiative to promote the Thai cuisine globally.199 Since the year of
2008, scholars such as Paul Rockower and Sam Chappel-Sokol were starting to study
gastrodiplomacy resulting the concept becoming increasingly popular. The term
gastrodiplomacy is also familiar and supported by a statement of “the best way to win
hearts and mind is through the stomach”.200 Through the use of food in diplomacy,
cross-cultural understanding aims to be achieved to enhance national brand
awareness, interactions and cooperation in international level.201 Food is a symbol
used to communicate ideas, values, identities, attitudes, and social classes, which
makes food as an important part diplomacy for a long time.202 The utilization of food
in gastrodiplomacy is a continuation of the use of the "oldest diplomacy instrument"
as food has been used for cross-cultural understanding in the hope of enhancing
interaction in bilateral and multilateral cooperation since a long time ago.203
International Conference on Cultural Diplomacy & the UN "Cultural Diplomacy & Soft Power in an
Interdependent World: The Opportunities for Global Governance" NYC & Washington DC, February
21st - 24th, 2012.. Available at SSRN: https://ssrn.com/abstract=2603310
199 Thailand's gastro-diplomacy. (2002, February). Retrieved from
http://www.economist.com/node/999687 200 Rockower, P. (2011). The Gastrodiplomacy Cookbook. Retrivied from
http://www.huffingtonpost.com/paul-rockower/the-gastrodiplomacy-cookb_b_716555.html. 201 Sokol, S. C. (2012). Culinary Diplomacy: Breaking Bread to Win Hearts and Minds. The Hague
Journal of Diplomacy 8, 161-183. 202 Zhang, J. (2015). The Foods of The Worlds: Maping and Comparing Contemporary
Gastrodiplomacy Campaigns. International Journal of Communication, 568-591. 203 Sokol, S. C. (2012). Culinary Diplomacy: Breaking Bread to Win Hearts and Minds. The Hague
Journal of Diplomacy 8, 161-183.
70
Practically, gastrodiplomacy is believed to be a practice under the umbrella of
public diplomacy where government can promote the country’s soft power.204 The
practice of gastrodiplomacy offers foreign publics the opportunity to engage with
other culture through food. 205 For many foreign public who do not have the
opportunity to visit other countries directly, gastrodiplomacy initiatives or program
open up more opportunity to foreign public to ‘have a taste’ of the country by tasting
the authentic food that belongs to the country itself.206 Not only tasting the food,
gastrodiplomacy initiatives and programs also gives opportunity for foreign public to
know the philosophy and the process behind the making of the cuisine, as well as a
chance to study the culture of the country. Rockower explains that gastrodiplomacy is
mostly used by middle power states such as Thailand, Peru, South Korea.207
As a country that is blessed by rich agricultural roots and resources, combined
with unique culture, Thailand has run the most active gastrodiplomacy to improve its
reputation in global level. Since 2002, the Thai government has declared the use of its
national cuisine in the practice of diplomacy under a program named of ‘Global
Thai’, which continuously renewed to Kitchen to the World under different
administrations.208 The agenda is to introduce Thai culture through national cuisine
by government sponsored program, practiced by increasing the number of Thai
restaurants abroad.209 Through Thai restaurants, it is expected that visitors will enter
another dimensions to experience the real Thailand, through the taste of authentic
food, friendly service, as Thailand is famously known as "Land of Smile", and real
204 Ibid., 205 Rockower, P. (2014). The State of Gastrodiplomacy. Public Diplomacy Magazine, 11-20. Retrieved
from http://publicdiplomacymagazine.com/wp-content/uploads/2014/02/gastrodiplomacy.pdf
206 Ibid., 207 Rockower, P. (2014). The State of Gastrodiplomacy. Public Diplomacy Magazine, 11-20. Retrieved
from http://publicdiplomacymagazine.com/wp-content/uploads/2014/02/GASTRODIPLOMACY.pdf 208 Food as Ambassador: Thailand's gastro-diplomacy. (2002). Retrieved from
https://www.economist.com/node/999687 209 MCOT. (2012, May 28). Thai PM opens "Thai Kitchen to the World" event to promote Thai food
industry - Pattaya Mail. Retrieved from http://www.pattayamail.com/thailandnews/thai-pm-opens-thai-
kitchen-to-the-world-event-to-promote-thai-food-industry-13105
71
atmosphere that identic to the country through the restaurant decoration. 210 Thai
restaurant will also shows the relationship between authenticity, tourism, and
tradition.211 As Chappel-Sokol said “you can go to a Thai restaurant and eat Thai
food and meet Thai people and understand more of what that culture is about”.212
The culinary approach undertaken by the Thai government is not just a
temporary event aiming for short-term outcomes, this strategy has been
systematically prepared as a sustainable programs.213 Every Thai embassy has a target
in increasing the number of Thai restaurants. In addition, Royal Thai embassy and
consulate along with Thai communities abroad routinely organize Thai cultural
events such as commemorating the Songkran festival (Thai New Year celebrations),
Thai Festival as well as events to promote Thai cuisine through Restaurant Week.
IV.2 Government Strategy’s to Promote Thailand as the Kitchen of
the World 2011-2014
Thai food had their characteristic worth for purchasing and learning. As Thai
food has a good reputation in Thai culture, the government wants to introduce to the
world the pleasures of Thai cuisine and to capitalize on a rapidly expanding ethic
foods sector in the US. This research will focus on government strategy in promoting
Thailand as Kitchen of the World for US. The Thai government seeks to educate,
attract the attention and interest of the American community in recognizing the
culture of Thai cuisine. This promotion is believed to have an impact in the social
development of Thailand's economic because the food industry has become an
210 Thai Select Restaurants. (n.d.). Retrieved from
http://www.thaiselect.com/main.php?filename=mabout 211 Molz, J. G. (2004). Tasting an imagined Thailand: Authenticity and culinary tourism in Thai
restaurants. Culinary Tourism, 2, 54-75. 212 Culinary diplomacy: The nexus of food and diplomacy. The interview with Sam Chappel-Sokol
(n.d.). Retrieved from https://www.splendidtable.org/story/culinary-diplomacy-the-nexus-of-food-and-
diplomacy
213 Thai PM opens “Thai Kitchen to the World” event to promote Thai food industry.
http://www.pattayamail.com/thailandnews/thai-pm-opens-thai-kitchen-to-the-world-event-to-promote-
thai-food-industry-13105
72
important part to bring Thailand's economic growth. Through some strategies the
government tried to introduce Thai food.
IV.2.1 Thai Cooking Tour and School
The ambitious initiative of Thai government aims to establish thousands Thai
restaurants abroad makes a high demand for more Thai cooks and chef to hire
abroad, such thing is needed not only to serve authentic Thai food but also the
creation of authentic Thai experience. As part of the Thai Kitchen to the World
project, the Thailand Ministry of Labour support in promoting Thai professional
workforce in culinary field.214
Still under the umbrella of Thai Kitchen to the World, for the first time the
Royal Thai government pointed a Thai-American chef and gastronomy storyteller, Jet
Tilakamonkul as the first Cuisine Ambassador. 215 He was assigned to travel in the
United States to increase national awareness and promote Thai cuisine and culture.
The commitment of Thailand government in running gastrodiplomacy strategy
towards the United States is also become stronger through the appointment of the
cuisine ambassador.216 Chef Jet Tila duties includes a tour in the United States on
behalf of the Thai government to provide food demonstrations, making media
appearances and coordinating events.217 He has appeared on several major television
programs such as CBS, NBC, Iron Chef America, Rachael vs. Guy Celebrity Cook-
Off; and holds six culinary Guinness World Records, and other cooking TV programs
to talk about the history of Thai food in the United States.218
214 Foreign Office, The Government Public Relations Department. (n.d.). : Thailand : Kitchen of the
World. Retrieved from http://thailand.prd.go.th/ebook2/kitchen/intro.html 215 Interview DITP 216 Ibid., 217 Padoongpatt, M. (2017). Flavors of empire: Food and the making of Thai America. Oakland,
California: University of California Press. 218 Jet Tila Appointed Thai Cuisine Ambassador. (n.d.). Retrieved from
http://www.laweekly.com/restaurants/jet-tila-appointed-thai-cuisine-ambassador-2897096
73
The government also encourages Americans to learn about Thai cuisine
through the establishment of Thai cooking school and courses, where people will not
only learn how to prepare food, but also the philosophy behind that. Most of the
schools and courses offered in America are mostly lead by Thai Chef living in the US
or guest chef that came all the way from Thailand. Here some most-known schools
and courses across US:
No. Thai Cooking School / Course Location
1. Thai Fresh 909 West Mary Street Unit B
Texas, Austin, 78704
512-494-6436
thai-fresh.com
Short, recreational courses
2. Blue Ribbon Culinary Center 2501 Fairview Avenue E.
Washington, Seattle, 98102
blueribboncooking.com
3. Supatra 967 West 7th Street
Minnesota, St. Paul, 55102
651-222-5859
supatra.com
4. Sawatdee Thai Cooking School 607 Washington Avenue S.
Minnesota, Minneapolis, 55415
612-338-6415
sawatdee.com
5. Fantastic Thai 12 Reagan Street
New Jersey, Old Bridge, 08857
74
732-277-5902
fantastic-thai.com
One day classes
Four day courses
Chef courses individually designed to
the chef
6. Thai Gourmet House 8313 East Monterosa Street
Arizona, Scottsdale, 85251
408-947-1258
thaigourmethouse.com
Recreational classes
culinarycenterofmonterey.com
7. Culinary Center of Monterey Creative Thai Cooking
625 Cannery row
Monterey, CA 93940
831-333-2133
8. Thai Food and Travel Thai Food and Travel
California, Oakland, 94620
thaifoodandtravel.com
Four-day beginner’s course
Eight-day advanced course
Optional travel to Thailand
Table 4.1 Thai Cooking School and Courses in the United States
75
IV.2.2 Thai Select Award and the Establishment of Thai Restaurant in the
United States
Along with the increasing popularity of Thai cuisine since more than a decade
ago, it is no wonder that the taste in Thai dishes becomes ‘Americanized’ with
adjusted tastes for the American.219 The Thai Trade Center (TTC) in USA under
supervision of Department of International Trade Promotion (DITP), Ministry of
Commerce, Royal Thai Government, are responsible for promoting trade and services
between Thailand and United States.220
In support of Thai Kitchen to the World project, the Royal Thai Government
has launched the "Thai Select” program to certify and promote authentic Thai cuisine
around the world. The government wants to create more awareness among American
towards Thai restaurants that serve authentic Thai cuisine so people appreciate the
real taste in food, taste the exotic ingredients that complement each dish. Its main
purpose is to provide opportunities for people to taste the same food they would eat in
Thailand. The program is also intended to encourage Thai restaurateurs and food
producers to raise the quality of their products and services while maintaining the
authenticity.
The Thai Select certificate is designed as the official recognition that
identifies restaurants to properly use correct ingredients in their dishes with no
substitutes, preparing the food in the traditional Thai style of cooking and overall
taste.221 TTC, DITP and the Royal Thai Government decide on the standards and
judge the restaurant's food. From approximately 20,000 of Thai restaurants spread
throughout the world, at this time there are only 1,652 or 10 percent out of the
219 Padoongpatt, M. (2017). Flavors of empire: Food and the making of Thai America. Oakland,
California: University of California Press. 220 Interview with office Thai Trade Center for USA in New York. Tuesday, March 27 2018
221 Ibid.,
76
number, that have become Thai Select–certified. Commerce Minister Apiradi
Tantraporn in 2016 said out that the government has set a target to increase the
number of Thai restaurants that have earned the Thai Select logo by 100 percent to
3,000 by 2020.222
Thai restaurant operators that have been awarded with Thai Select logo will
receive several privileges. For example, they will be selected to join various trade
fairs in Thailand and abroad and will be invited to participate in seminars organized
by the Department of International Trade Promotion. 223 The Thai government is
proud to share the diversity of taste in Thai food with the United States, through one
of the most prestigious events, Thailand Restaurant Week in major American cities
every year.224 Thailand Restaurant Week is a Thai cultural event to showcase the
variety of Thai cuisine that involve many Thai Select restaurants in US. 225 The
222 Increasing the Number of 'Thai Select? Restaurants Worldwide. (n.d.). Retrieved from
http://thailand.prd.go.th/ewt_news.php?nid=3858&filename=index
223 Interview with office Thai Trade Center for USA in New York. Tuesday, March 27 2018 224 Thai Restaurant Week: A Month to Celebrate Thai Cuisine http://www.thaitradeusa.com/home/?p=15286 225 LLC, I. (n.d.). Office of Commercial Affairs, Royal Thai Embassy in Washington, DC – News
Category – EVENTS. Retrieved from http://www.commercethaiusa.org/oca/news_cat/events
Figure 4.1 Former Prime Minister Yingluck awarded "Thai
Select" certification to the Thai restaurateurs
77
participating restaurants will offer special menu as well as exhibiting their Chef’s
cooking skill.226 Still in this event, DITP present Thai Select certification awards to
the qualified restaurants.
Figure 4.2: Thai Select restaurant growth graphic
Thai food is booming in the US due to the explosion in the number of Thai
ethnic restaurants. Over the past 16 years, since the Thai government initiated an
initiative using gastrodiplomacy in 2002 by increasing the quantity of Thai
restaurants around the world have a rapid development. At the time, there were 5,500
Thai restaurants worldwide and increased to fourfold today.227 Since the launch of the
Thai Select certification program under the administration of PM Yingluck also
showed a rapidly increasing the awareness of authentic traditional Thai food around
the world. Currently, Thai Select restaurants have increased threefold since 2011 to
226 Ibid., 227 Rockower, P. (2014). The State of Gastrodiplomacy. Public Diplomacy Magazine, 11-20. Retrieved
from http://publicdiplomacymagazine.com/wp-content/uploads/2014/02/GASTRODIPLOMACY.pdf
2011 2012 2013 2014 2015 2016 2017
Worldwide 508 720 980 1200 1360 1443 1625
United States 81 195 270 325 380 470 568
0
200
400
600
800
1000
1200
1400
1600
1800
Thai Select Restaurant Growth
78
1652 in 2017. 228 The United States has the largest number of Thai restaurant
population outside Thailand. According to Thai Trade for USA under DIPT North
America, in 2011 US have 81 Thai Select-certified restaurants, 195 restaurants in
2012, 270 restaurants in 2013 and 325 in 2014.229 The program continues until today
and US have more than 568 Thai Select-certified restaurants all over the country.230
Figure 4.2: Thai Select Restaurant in the United States231
Alabama 7 Indiana 9 Nebraska 3 South
Calorina
11
Alaska 0 Lowa 1 Nevada 3 South
Dakota
0
228 Thai Select Restaurant Directory, Thai Trade Center for North America. The Department of
International Trade Promotion (DITP) 229 Data is processed from the Thai Trade Center for the USA, the Department of International Trade
Promotion (DITP) of the Ministry of Commerce, the Royal Thai Government and the Internal Revenue
Service (IRS) 230 Ibid., 231 Thai Select Restaurant Directory, Thai Trade Center for North America. The Department of
International Trade Promotion (DITP)
THE WEST
THE
NORTH-
EAST THE MIDWEST
THE SOUTH
79
Arizona 2 Kansas 2 New
Hampshire
0 Tennessee 12
Arkansas 0 Kentucky 5 New Jersey 17 Texas 15
California 70 Louisiana 4 New Mexico 2 Utah 1
Colorado 6 Maine New York 61 Vermont 1
Connecticut 7 Maryland 11 North
Carolina
Virginia 5
Delaware 2 Massachusetts 4 North Dakota Washington 42
Florida 119 Michigan 9 Ohio 11 West
Virginia
0
Georgia 12 Minnesota 10 Oklahoma 0 Wisconsin 3
Hawaii 5 Mississippi 2 Oregon 10 Washington
D.C
1
Idaho 2 Missouri 12 Pennsylvania 9 Wyoming 1
Illionis 53 Montana 3 Rodhe Island 3
Table 4.2 Thai Select Restaurant in the United States
To ensure that Americans can have authentic Thai culinary experience, DIPT
support the endorsement of Thai Select certification that guarantees the authenticity
of the Thai food being served. Currently the United States has about 5,500 Thai
restaurants, or more than one-third of all that are outside Thailand.232 There are 568
restaurants in all over US that have been awarded Thai Select logo as an excellent
way to introduce foodie to the Thai culture in an authentic manner.233 The number of
Thai Select restaurant and the Thai food has become immensely popular in US with
the American customers awareness of Thai authentic dish. According to the Thai
Select USA, most of Thai Select restaurant population is on The South with 42%,
232 Department of International Trade Promotion (DITP) of the Ministry of Commerce 233 Data is processed from Thai Select Restaurant in the United States. (n.d.). Retrieved from
http://www.thaiselectusa.info//pages/restauranthome/#.Wt6a29uB3MI
80
following by The Midwest 35%, The West 14% and The North East 9%.234 Lot of
Thai restaurants can be found in every major US city like New York, Las Angeles,
etc. Even in the smaller cities like Alabama, Delaware, Virginia the interest in Thai
food is increasing.235
IV. 3 Promote Thai Cuisine and Culture in the United States
In order to create better awareness of Thai cuisine heritage and support the
Thai Kitchen to the World project, the Royal Thai Embassy of Washington DC and
Royal Thai Consulate-General offices in collaboration with the Ministry of Culture of
Thailand undertaken various project to promote their culture including Thai cooking
and food, traditional product, massage, art and cultural performance to the
American.236 In a broader context, the events have been implemented in line with
Thailand’s public and cultural diplomacy policy that aims to strengthen relationship
and enhance better understanding between Thailand and foreign countries as well as
among their peoples.237 Since 2011-2014 Thai government abroad organized series of
cultural activities and event to showcase the best of Thai culture. The annual cultural
event and food festival serves as a bridge connecting Thais and American.
No. Event Location and Date
1. The 8th Annual Songkran Thai Festival Washington D.C.
April 11th -17th , 2011
234 Data is processed from the Thai Trade Center for the USA, the Department of International Trade
Promotion (DITP) of the Ministry of Commerce, the Royal Thai Government and the Internal Revenue
Service (IRS) 235 Ibid., 236 Social & Cultural News - Ministry of Foreign Affairs, Kingdom of Thailand. (n.d.). Retrieved from
http://www.mfa.go.th/main/en/media-center/30/page-52.html 237 Royal Thai Embassy News: Thai cultural Performance. (2015). Retrieved from
https://www.thaiembassylima.com/news/2015-07-16.php
81
2. Taste of Siam Road Show Los Angeles
December 22nd -24th , 2011
3. The 9th Annual Songkran Thai
Festival 2012
Thai Town, Los Angeles USA
April 1st, 2012
4. New York “Thai Select” Restaurant
Week
New York
September 2012
Songkran & Thai Restaurant Week
Washington D.C.
April 10th -17th , 2013
5. Thai Food Festival with Celebrity
Chefs
Los Angeles
September 29th, 2013
6. Thai Select Restaurants Week Chicagoland
September 1st -30th, 2013
82
7. Thai Restaurant Week
New York, Pennyslvania, New Jersey
September 16th – 22nd , 2013
8. Thai Restaurant Week
Los Angeles – Western U.S.
September 23rd – 29th , 2013
83
8. Songkran Thai Restaurant Week
Washington, DC
April 10th -17th , 2014
10. Thai Culture and Food Festival
The Buddhist Temple
Dallas, Texas
May 24th -25th , 2014
11. Thailand Week: Thai Food for Health
California Center for the Arts
Escondido in San Diego.
September 1st – 7th 2014
84
12. Hom Mali Rice Thai Restaurant Week
DC Metro Area
September 25th – October 3rd 2015
13. Thai Food Day
Public Schools in Washington D.C.
November 6th, 2014
Table 4.3 Thailand Kitchen of the World promotion events in 2011-2014238
Annually, Thai foreign government celebrates Songkran Festival, the most
famous festival in Thailand, which marks the Thai New Year. The Songkran
celebration is rich with symbolic traditions. Thai embassy with the Thai community
in US inviting all the Americans to celebrate the day with varieties of activities at the
Festival namely religious ceremony such as a water blessing at the Buddha statue by
the monks, traditional Thai music and dances, Muay Thai demonstration, the
238 Data processed from Royal Thai Embassy, Washington D.C., Royal Thai Consulate General of Los
Angeles, Royal Thai Consulate General of New York and Thai Trade USA
85
Songkran Festival Queen beauty pageant contest and many more. There was also an
exhibition zone where Thai handicrafts, vegetables and fruits crafting, and making of
Thai desserts were demonstrated. A special cooking demonstration the top Thai
Cuisine Chef and Celebrity Chef was attracted huge interest of the audience. In
addition, there were many stalls serving favourite Thai dishes and desserts.
Approximately more than 30,000 people participated in every events.239
The Thai embassy also sponsored annual event called Thai Restaurant Week
since 2010 in the United States to promote Thai culture through the distinctively
delicious Thai cuisine.240 The National Thai Restaurant Week, made Americans get
good deals at dozens of local Thai restaurants that have been certified through Thai
Select. The restaurants are fulfilling the standard preparation of Thai cuisine to make
sure authentic Thai cuisines are getting served.241 The Embassy invited a group of
Thai chefs from famous International Culinary School or Celebrity Chef to prepare
authentic Thai dinner and perform cooking demonstration.242 Thai Restaurant Week
is a project of Thailand's Department of International Trade Promotion and the Thai
Trade Center, this is the only event in the States where Thai chefs and celeb non-Thai
chefs are coming together to celebrate Thai culture.243 The people will be able to
enjoy the food festival which will feature the best of Thai cuisine prepared from the
finest and freshest ingredients to create an exotic menu that combines a refined
palette with native flavours to serve the most authentic dishes to all Thai food
enthusiast.
239 Thai Trade USA. (2013). Thai Restaurant Week Press Release [Video file]. Retrieved from
https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=DEn0e62kr2s 240 Ibid.,
241 Royal Thai Embassy Washington D.C. (2014). Thai Restaurant Week 2014 [Video file]. Retrieved
from https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=9Wjl1HXhO4o 242 Ibid., 243 DC's Thai embassy hosting food, culture festival. (2012, June 23). Retrieved from
https://www.washingtonexaminer.com/dcs-thai-embassy-hosting-food-culture-festival
86
The event has successfully raised awareness about Thai food and culture
among Americans. The establishment of those events is believed to support the
increase popularity of Thai cuisine in US, which is also supported by the presence of
Thai Select-certified restaurants featured in the events that serve authentic cuisine
with genuine cooking procedures. Cultural events are also expected to enhance the
Thai and US cultural relations and increase foreign tourist arrival. According to
Ambassador of Thailand to the United States, Vijavat Isarabhakdi in 2014, every year
Thai Restaurant Week has been very successful to gained greater interest and have
been a larger number of people and restaurant participating in the event.244
On another occasion, Thai embassy also cooperates with various agencies in
the US to establish relationships with US students by promoting knowledge about
Thailand and its rich culture. One of them is Thai embassy cooperation with DC
Public School by holding “Thai Food Day” where about 45,000 students in more than
100 public schools in D.C. has Thai food for breakfast and lunch.245 The students
were also treated to performances of Thai culture such as dance, also the art of fruit
and vegetable carving from a chef at the Ambassador's Residence. This approach is
necessary because People-to-people relations, especially among children and youth,
have long been a cornerstone of the Thai-U.S. relations.
244 Royal Thai Embassy Washington D.C. (2014). Thai Restaurant Week 2014 [Video file]. Retrieved
from https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=9Wjl1HXhO4o 245 Royal Thai Embasy, Washington D.C. (2014). Youth and Education. Embassy Adoption Program
(EAP) on Thai Food Day. Retrieved from http://thaiembdc.org/youth-and-education/
87
IV.4 The Analysis of Kitchen to The World Implementation in the
United States of America 2011 – 2014
Figure 4.3: Research Framework of the Case constructed by the writer
Soft power often described as the ability to influence the preferences of others
to make other to want the same things the actor wants.246 According to Joseph S. Nye,
there are three sources of soft power, such as “culture, values and policies” that serve
as tools within the practice of public diplomacy.247 Public diplomacy mostly known
as the government’s effort in “winning the hearts and minds” of targeted public to
make them understand, support, and follow one’s policies, goals, cultural traditions or
246 Nye, J. S. (2008). “Public Diplomacy and Soft Power.” The Annals of the American Academy of
Political and Social Science doi:10.1177/0002716207311699. 247 Ibid.,
88
way of life.248 Tuch describes that public diplomacy is “a government’s process of
communicating with foreign publics in an attempt to bring about understanding for
its nation’s ideas and ideals, its institutions and cultures, as well as its national goals
and current policies.”249 Public diplomacy highlights the interactive communication,
public relations and cultural exchanges between fellow countrymen, foreigners and
global citizens.
Joseph Nye believes that a country's culture comprises a core component of a
country’s soft power if it is perceived attractive by others. Culture is a set of values
and practices that create meaning for society. This is what makes culture can be
utilized in the practice of diplomacy to engage with public, which then gave birth to
the term cultural diplomacy. According to Milton Cummings what is called as
cultural diplomacy refers to: “The exchange of ideas, information, art and other
aspects of culture among nations and their peoples in order to foster mutual
understanding’ in efforts on promoting the national language, explaining its policies
and point of view, or “telling its story” to the rest of the world.” 250 Cultural
diplomacy believes as a linchpin of public diplomacy because cultural activities have
the ability to demonstrate the identity of a nation. 251 Simultaneously, public
diplomacy helps to amplify and advertise a society and culture to the world at
large.252 In this connection, cultural diplomacy and public diplomacy become in line
to complement each other as a mean of mutual understanding.
248 Signitzer, B. (2013). Public Relations and Public Diplomacy: Some Conceptual
Explorations. Benno Signitzer, 205-218. Retrieved from https://link.springer.com/chapter/10.1007/978-
3-531-90918-9_13 249 Hopkins, A. E. (2015). Government Public Relations: Public Diplomacy or Propaganda? Social
Science, Arts & Humanities Journal, 7(3). Retrieved from
http://www.inquiriesjournal.com/articles/1012/government-public-relations-public-diplomacy-or-
propaganda
250 C. Cummings, M. (2003). Cultural Diplomacy and the United States Government: A Survey. Center
for arts and culture. 251 https://www.state.gov/documents/organization/54374.pdf 252 Carnes Lord, Losing Hearts and Minds?: Public Diplomacy and Strategic Influence in the Age of
Terror (Westport, CT: Praeger Security International, 2006), 15.
89
In conducting diplomacy, there are varieties of culture that can be utilized by
government to achieve its goals. Samuel Chapple-Sokol emphasize that cuisine, as a
part of a country’s culture, can be utilized as an instrument for creating cross-cultural
understanding aims to enhance interaction and cooperation.253 The use of a country’s
cuisine then also identic with the term gastrodiplomacy, which Rockower believed
that gastrodiplomacy is “using a country’s culinary delight as a way to conduct
public diplomacy and a way to raise nation-brand awareness”.254 Gastrodiplomacy
also refers to a method of governments in highlighting the unique agricultural,
culinary heritage, cultural traditions to build the reputation of a country through
promoting its national cuisine, which go in line with the concept of public diplomacy
as well as cultural diplomacy that also includes the involvement of non-state
actors.255
Thailand is famously known as the pioneer in the practice of gastrodiplomacy
where the government of Thailand has intentionally bolstered the presence of Thai
cuisine outside the country whose resulted can be felt today. The Royal Thai
government first launched the initiative in 2002 called "Global Thai" and “Kitchen of
the World” in 2003 to sponsor the establishment of hundreds of Thai restaurants to all
over the globe.256 Under Yingluck administration in 2011, Thai government launched
“Kitchen to the World” program. Thailand government intensively introduce and
promotes the unique of Thailand traditional food worldwide, and softly
communicates about taste, history, culture, and value. Such thing is done under
various of programs, from encouraging the establishment of Thailand restaurant
253 Sokol, S. C. (2013). The Hague Journal of Diplomacy 8. Culinary Diplomacy: Breaking Bread to
Win Hearts and Minds, 161-183. 254 Rockower PS (2011). Projecting Taiwan: Taiwan’s public diplomacy outreach. Issues & Studies,
47(1), 107–152. 255 TEDx Talks. (2014, February 18). Food is not only culture, it's diplomacy: Leah Selim at
TEDxGowanus [Video file]. Retrieved from https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=-eyROTdBUs4
256 Thai Food To World. (n.d.). Retrieved from
http://www.thaifoodtoworld.com/home/governmentpol.php
90
abroad, regulating standard and criteria for authentic Thailand cuisine to be served in
restaurants, and appointing Cuisine Ambassador.
According to Paul Rockower, there are several characteristic of
gastrodiplomacy, which are:257 Communicate culinary culture with foreign public in
a broader way, more than high-level elites, enhancing nation brand through cultural
diplomacy by creating awareness and understanding of foreign public towards
national cuisine culture, and transcends the realm of state-to-public communication
and increasingly includes people-to-people engagement. Thailand government in
conducting its gastrodiplomacy program, especially through the Kitchen to the World
program, has met those characteristic that justifies the effort of Thailand government
in promoting its cuisine is under the framework of gastrodiplomacy.
Basically, Thai government have met those characteristic when it decided to
promote Thai cuisine through quantitatively rising the number of Thai restaurant
abroad through the creating of Kitchen to the World program. Thai government seeks
to strengthen the presence of Thai cuisine in order to introduce Thai culinary culture
abroad to educate the global communities. Through the Kitchen to the World program
the government wants to enhance Thai restaurant business worldwide and make it as
an informal embassy and information center to foreign public. The Thai government
also organizes extensive food promotion events such as the festival and advertisement
to attract a large number of people. Each event in the representative country also aims
to strengthen Thailand and other countries bilateral relations, especially at people-to-
people level.
Taking example from the implementation of Kitchen to the World in the
United States, The Thai government set up a restaurant in American cities and
suburbs. Now that the restaurants are opened, the government is concerned with
maintaining their quality and their value as export channels. The Government
257 Rockower,Paul 2014. “The State of Gastrodiplomacy” Public Diplomacy Magazine.
http://publicdiplomacymagazine.com/wp-content/uploads/2014/02/GASTRODIPLOMACY.pdf
91
promotes Thai Select to ensure that the food served abroad is authentic as a
representation of Thai culture to the foreign community. The restaurants participate in
a large number of foreign public events such as cultural events, Thai Restaurant
Week aims to attract foreign interests to taste, know and love Thai cuisine. The Thai
Embassy also held a Thai Food Day at several public schools in the D.C. area by
engaging American students to expand their knowledge of Thailand culture.
Moreover, the Thai government's commitment in carrying out the gastrodiplomacy
strategy towards the US is getting stronger by appointing a Thai Cuisine Ambassador
and establishment of Thai schools and courses to spread a wider awareness of Thai
cuisine culture towards American. Arranging these kinds of agendas attracted a large
number of people to participate in Thai government’s gastrodiplomacy strategies.
As the gastrodiplomacy that conduct by Thai government show, several
impacts on the economic sector can be seen from the increase in Thai restaurant
demand and the growing popularity of the respective cuisine from Thailand as the
objectives of establishing the Kitchen to the Word program. This gastrodiplomacy
cannot be denied that the program has work because after the program declared the
restaurant becomes increasing every year. There are around 20,000 Thai restaurants
overseas, an impressive increase from more than 6,000 recorded in 2003. The United
States has almost 50 percent Thai restaurant of the whole world, there are 508 Thai
restaurants in 2011 and increased annually to more than 1,600 by 2017. As well as
the results shown after PM Yingluck administration promote the Thai Select
certification to ensure the authenticity and quality of Thai food. Since then the
number of Thai Select restaurant increased from roughly 81 in 2011 to more than 568
in 2017 that spread across the American cities and suburbs. The knowledge of the
cuisine culture of Thailand is definitely growing in the United States.
Thailand utilizes their food as a tool on gastrodiplomacy to share its food
cultural heritage in the global stage. The government has leveraging of unique
medium of cultural diplomacy to enhance its soft power through cultural events that
92
highlights the Thai cuisine culture. Through the expansion of Thai restaurants and
events, Thailand offers to foreign public an opportunity to engage in Thai culture.
Kitchen to the World program explored how theory of soft power is connected, and
the gastrodiplomacy into the wider fields of cultural and public diplomacy of
Thailand.
Based on the data and information served and analyzed in this research,
Thailand utilize their food as a tool on gastrodiplomacy to share its food cultural
heritage in the global stage especially in the United States. The government has
leveraging of unique medium of cultural diplomacy to enhance its soft power through
cultural events that highlights the Thai cuisine culture through various initiatives that
have been done under the Kitchen to The World program in the United States,
starting from the conduct of Thai Select certification, appointment of cuisine
ambassadors, cooking school and courses, variety of activities and events conducted
to promote Thai cuisine has contribute to the rising number of Thai restaurant in the
country.
Through the expansion of Thai restaurants and events, Thailand offers to
foreign public an opportunity to engage in Thai culture. In this case, the Thai
government used the restaurant as a "spearhead" in Thai gatsrodiplomacy practice.
First, an overseas Thai restaurant is America's first place to know and learn about
Thai culture. Second, the government set a strategy on how to bring Thai atmosphere
into a restaurant abroad such as service, decoration and architecture. Third, through
the "Thai Select" program it is certain that the Thai dishes presented to the American
is authentic as it is served in Thailand so that foreign customers will also get the real
experience in Thai cuisine. In the end, through the establishment of cooking schools
and courses as well as promotional activities resulted in the sharing of ideas as a way
to promote better understanding of both countries at the people-to-people level.
Kitchen to the World program explored how theory of soft power, public
diplomacy and cultural diplomacy are connected. Such thing justified that the
93
implementation of Kitchen to The World program in the United States have met the
objective of the country’s gastrodiplomacy as well as the objective of the program
itself, because, it can be assumed that the implementation of the program was
successful.
94
CHAPTER V
CONCLUSION
It is important for a country to highlight its strengths in order to build a
stronger identity and competitiveness in the global stage. Thai cuisine has become a
pride for the nation, perceived as a culture and handed down from generation to
generation. Thailand has a strong basic to conduct what is called as gastrodiplomacy,
through the excellence of unique taste, positive perception of foreign audiences on
its authentic food. Thai cuisine offers healthy food trends that is full of cultural
values exist in every dishes. To achieve its campaign to become the "World’s
Kitchen", Thai government then took the initiative to practice gastrodiplomacy
program.
The existence of Thai cuisine in the global market is a long process involving
various actors that interacting on different levels. Initiated by the Thai government,
the first gastrodiplomacy program was conceptualized in 2002 titled Global Thai and
Kitchen of the World in 2003 to increase the establishment number of Thai
restaurants abroad. Thai food and cuisine has grown in popularity, but the problem is
that Thai food served abroad has been distorted. This will certainly affect Thailand's
reputation and cultural identity. As a continuation and program development from
the previous leadership, Prime Minister Yingluck launched Kitchen of the World in
2011 aims not only to strengthen the presence of Thai cuisine through increasing the
quantity of Thai restaurants abroad, but also to promote foreign public awareness of
authentic Thai culture by highlighting the authentic Thai cuisine.
The Thai government emphasizes the promotion of an authentic Thai cuisine
culture by encouraging standardization and quality control by labeling "The Select"
to qualify Thai restaurants abroad. This program is a real effort from the government
in preparing Thai cuisine to be able to compete on the global stage. In addition, it
95
can be analyzed from the gastrodiplomacy strategy in Thailand, the government has
always been actively involved and play a strong role in promoting Thai cuisine
abroad, as well as how to ensure that the Thai national cuisine spread in all the
restaurants in many countries around the world is a truly authentic as in Thailand.
Thailand government have been continuously implement the Kitchen to the
World program as Thailand gastrodiplomacy in various countries all around the
world, including the United States. The Thai government has a strong reason to run
its gastrodiplomacy in the US since the relationship between Thailand and the US
has long been established. Moreover, the need of diet eating habit and strong cultural
diversity in the US advances the popularity Thai cuisine. The role of the government
in devising a strategy of gastrodiplomacy to introduce Thai cuisine has been done in
various ways. Thai government intentionally reinforce the presence of Thai cuisine
abroad through the establishment of Thai restaurants with the real Thailand's high
standard of service and tastes to increase foreign public awareness of Thailand's
existence and the competitiveness of the country by increasing its exports and its
prominence on the cultural and diplomatic stages. Thai government in the United
States has several additional agendas to promote Kitchen to the World program in
this country by involving restaurateurs and diaspora chefs such as several
international cultural and food festivals, appointment Thai Cuisine Tour by Thai
Cuisine Ambassador, Thai cooking school and courses and Thai Restaurant Week
which attracts huge number of foreign public in America to share ideas and improve
mutual understanding of both countries at the people-to-people level.
In this research, the writer has seen the strategy of The Thai government used
the restaurant as a "spearhead" in Thai gatsrodiplomacy practice. Every year since the
implementation of Kitchen to the World, Thai restaurants have increased
significantly, as well as Thai Select restaurants. Of the number of Thai restaurants in
the world, the US has almost half of the total. The number of Thai restaurant
requests in America proves that the program is going well and the popularity of
96
authentic Thai cuisine is increasing as well as Thailand's position on the global
stage. In terms of gastrodiplomacy, Thailand is known as one of the world's best
practices seen from its phenomenal achievements.
97
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APPENDIX II. Transcript of Interview with Royal Thai Consulate-
General for Los Angeles March 26th, 2018
Interviewer : Nisrini Khairani
Interviewee : Gena Saranya Thangsattayapirom, Information Social and
Culture of Royal Thai Consulate-General for Los Angeles
Nisrini : What is Thai Kitchen to the World Program?
Gena : “Kitchen to the World” is the Thai Government’s policy to promote Thai
food and Thai agricultural products to international markets and consumers.
Since the food industry is very important to the Thai economy.
Conceptualized in 2002 under PM Thaksin Sinawatra. This policy is made
into a very broad program focus, essentially we want to promote Thai food
and agricultural products. The program has also been developed and
renamed under different governments, such as Global Thai, Kitchen of the
World or Thai Cuisine to the World, Kitchen to the World and the latest is
the development between Kitchen to the world and 4.0 in technology-based
agriculture. The most recent version is the 2016 – 2021 Kitchen of the World
Strategy, under PM Prayuth Chan-o-cha.
Nisrini : What distinguishes one program from another?
Gena : Actually the programs have the same objectives, but the government also
conducts research and supervision, therefore government always do the
development, as we improve our focus and strategy. This was partly due to
the changes as the ruling party / administration changed – the old
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administration left and the new one came in – which also caused a shifting in
policy objectives as a whole (not just trade promotion related) from the
administration that came before.
Nisrini : Is there any organizational structure or committee in the kitchen to the world
since this policy run in parallel by various governments department?
Gena : The implementation of Kitchen of the World Strategy is a collaboration
between various Thai agencies, both inside and outside the country.
Domestic agencies include National Economics and Social Development
Board (NESDB), Ministry of Commerce, Ministry of Agriculture, Ministry
of Industry, Ministry of Labor, Tourism Authority of Thailand (TAT), etc.
Overseas agencies include the Offices of Commercial Affairs (Thai Trade
Centers), TAT Offices, the Offices of Agricultural Affairs, and the Royal
Thai Embassies and Consulates-General around the world. Each agency has
its own budgets and runs its own programs, but still answer to the same
“supervisor,” the Thai Cabinet. Nevertheless, sometimes, there are joint
projects among various agencies.
Nisrini : How about the program under the former Prime Minister Yingluck
Shinawatra Kitchen to the World? What makes this series of programs
considered the strategy of Thai Gastrodiplomacy?
Gena : Prime Minister Yingluck launched the Kitchen to the World program at the
beginning of her leadership in 2011 to boost trade and investment while
promoting safety food awareness. Of course this is part of the Thai public
diplomacy, Thailand gastrodiplomacy in Kitchen to The World project helps
the promotion of Thailand diverse culture and its cuisine in U.S. to enhance
Thailand reputation, you cant found it in other countries. There are thousands
of Thai restaurants abroad, each of them are unofficial embassy. Restaurant
is our weapon, while the food and cooking talent is ammunition. The
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restaurant has become a strategy as well as objective, it aims to attract the
attention of foreign public towards Thailand. Actually the establishment of
restaurants abroad has been done since 2002 under the Global Thai program.
PM Yingluck’s program develops to improve the quality of food by creating
new image of Thai food. Authenticity and quality assurance is in line with
the needs of consumers in the global stage, and Thai food industry is in
competition. The government uses “Thai Select” as a supervisor, this is to
ensure that Thai food served to foreign public is authentic as in Thailand, it
is very important for our culture. This program is under the commerce
ministry, you can directly visit the website under Ministry of Commerce
government agency.
Nisrini : In promoting the Kitchen to the World program, how is the role of the
foreign ministry or the Thai government abroad?
Gena : Since 2002, the Royal Thai Embassy and Consulates-General in the U.S.
have undertaken various projects to promote Kitchen to the World Strategy.
Examples are an organization of Thai cooking demonstration (shows and
classes), cultural event, Thai Restaurant Festival and in-store promotion
events to promote Thai ingredients. There are official reports on these
projects, but they are in Thai language, and mostly for internal use. You can
also find PR in the United States of America Royal Embassy and Consulates-
General in the U.S., but unfortunately it is limited to documents.
Nisrini : How many Thai restaurant or Thai Select restaurant in the United States?
How was the growth?
Gena : The number of Thai restaurants in the U.S., regardless of the nationalities of
the owners, can fluctuate due to the economic situations. The U.S. agency
who may have the exact number is the Internal Revenue Service (IRS).
Certainly the increase in the number of restaurants here is very significant,
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Americans are enthusiastic with the presence of Thai restaurants, I think the
ethnic restaurant market here is very popular, especially for Asian cuisine.
As for the Thai Select restaurants abroad, the agencies responsible are the
Offices of Commercial Affairs (Thai Trade Centers) in the U.S. and the
Department of International Trade Promotion, Ministry of Commerce in
Thailand. You might want to check out their websites.
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Thailand’s gastrodiplomacy program also supported by the blue print presented in
the form of an e-book on Thai Kitchen of The World that can be accessed directly in
the official website of Foreign Office, The Government Public Relations Department,
Thailand.