The importance of a sustainable farm system to a successful fashion industry
Simon FerrignoConsultant
Sustainable & Organic Farm Systems
Simon Ferrigno - sustainable & organic farm systems
Texworld forum In search of organic and other sustainable textiles
September 15 2010
Texworld, Paris - www.sustainableorganicfarmsystems.co.uk - 15-09-2010
Cotton: zero to...?
Cotton remains one of the most important fibres in the world: 35% of textiles market and global production in 2010/11 of 25.3
million tonnes
It is the most important natural fibre (2/3 of total)
Cotton's use of pesticides has declined, however, serious challenges remain including:
Water use, land use, soil fertility, use of chemicals, energy/GHGs, etc.
However, many sustainable options are now available
Texworld, Paris - www.sustainableorganicfarmsystems.co.uk - 15-09-2010
Introducing Better Cotton
September 15 2010
www.bettercotton.org
BCI is a multi-stakeholder initiative - from producer to retailer – to reduce the damaging
environmental and social consequences ofcotton production.
www.bettercotton.org
To demonstrate the inherent benefits of Better Cotton production, particularly the financial profitability for farmers
To reduce the impact of water and pesticide use on human and environmental health
To improve soil health and biodiversity
To promote Decent Work for farming communities and cotton farm workers
To facilitate global knowledge exchange on more sustainable cotton production
To increase the traceability along the cotton supply chain
Goals
www.bettercotton.org
Target: 300,000 tonnes by 2012 (1.3% global cotton)
BCI members already account for 4% of global cotton production
2010: India: 30,000 farmers, 37,000 hectares
Pakistan: 50,000 farmers, 164,00 farmers Brazil: 150 farmers, 27,000 hectares
West Africa: 5,000 farmers, 13,200 hectares
www.bettercotton.org
BCI, organic and Fairtrade
BCI complements, rather than competes with, existing initiatives such as Fairtrade and organic cotton.
All three are working to increase the amount of environmentally and socially sustainable cotton.
BCI is focused on the long-term transformation of the mass market, making smaller improvements on a larger scale
BCI will not use a labelling scheme and there will be no fixed premium for Better Cotton.
BCI is actively working towards aligned activities with Fairtrade and organic
Texworld, Paris - www.sustainableorganicfarmsystems.co.uk - 15-09-2010
However...
Sustainability is not just about which system, but also how you implement the system...
Texworld, Paris - www.sustainableorganicfarmsystems.co.uk - 15-09-2010
The farm is the core and foundation of the cotton value chain
Farm/Farmers
Primary Marketing & support
Value Chain
Marketing & Retail
Consumers
Natural resources: land, soil, water, energy
Texworld, Paris - www.sustainableorganicfarmsystems.co.uk - 15-09-2010
An example of a sustainable fibre value chain and support services
Texworld, Paris - www.sustainableorganicfarmsystems.co.uk - 15-09-2010
On the farm
COTTONCOTTON
An im a lsBees and H oneyC ow s and goa ts
An im a lsBees and H oneyC ow s and goa ts
Beneficial and harmful organisms(fungus, m ites, insect, b irds, m am m als and o thers)
Beneficial and harmful organisms(fungus, m ites, insect, b irds, m am m als and o thers)
Soil(fungus, lichens, m ites, insects, and o thers)
Soil(fungus, lichens, m ites, insects, and o thers)
C rop R otation
Food C ash- M a ize - Sesam e- Beans - G roundnu t- Len til - Soya- Vege tab les - Sw eet
po ta to
C rop R otation
Food C ash- M a ize - Sesam e- Beans - G roundnu t- Len til - Soya- Vege tab les - Sw eet
po ta to
A ssocia tion
Food C ash- Beans - Sesam e- M a ize
A ssocia tion
Food C ash- Beans - Sesam e- M a ize
B order (use fu l p lan ts)
- C arob- Sun flow er
B order (use fu l p lan ts)
- C arob- Sun flow er
Periphery
Food C ash- C assava - C o ffee
- Banana- M ango
Periphery
Food C ash- C assava - C o ffee
- Banana- M ango
water
energy
Chemicals
Seeds
Sun
Fertiliser
Texworld, Paris - www.sustainableorganicfarmsystems.co.uk - 15-09-2010
Inputs to the farm system: water – labour – seed – finance – inputs – training – land – soil – biodiversity -
Outputs from the farm system: fibre – food – water – pollution – money – soil degradation – loss of resources – social change/issues -
Extractive systems- deplete soils through poor management- increase poverty through poor productivity, low prices, high costs, labour exploitation- pollute land, air and water through improper chemical use
Constructive systems- train people- study and balance agronomy, productivity, people and planet- reduce water use- build soil fertility- invest in research, development e.g., improved varieties
Texworld, Paris - www.sustainableorganicfarmsystems.co.uk - 15-09-2010
Good systems
Productive (good varieties, good soils, etc.)
Resilient (food, education, health, ecosystem, water...
Innovative (research and development)
Supported (training, investment, fair returns, fair wages and practices...)
Long-term (contracts, relationships, partnerships)
Texworld, Paris - www.sustainableorganicfarmsystems.co.uk - 15-09-2010
Costs and benefits for brandsCosts Certification Traceability Premium or fair prices More expensive if potentially
higher quality raw material Poor economies of scale (at
beginning) CSR costs Monitoring Management Farmer support/investment
BenefitsShorter value chainBetter quality managementTraceable productPositive stories from farming =
communicationFewer intermediaries (=fewer
commissions)More productivityMore efficiencyLower footprints including costs of
water and energyCloser management
Texworld, Paris - www.sustainableorganicfarmsystems.co.uk - 15-09-2010
What system for me?
Ask the right question for you business, e.g.,
A strong consumer message (organic, Fairtrade)?
Partnership with a movement (Fairtrade)
Wide change across sourcing chain (BCI)
Or a combination of all options?
Texworld, Paris - www.sustainableorganicfarmsystems.co.uk - 15-09-2010
What system for me?
Verifiable
Traceable
Calculated: impacts, positives versus negatives
Think of products and where there is room for manoeuvre in margins
Organic or FT good consumer facing options or even loss leaders, while...
BCI addresses the wider product mix and addresses the awkward question: and what about the rest of your cotton?
Adapted to business size: an SME, niche or high end brand might be able to do 100% of organic and/or FT
A larger business might need a mixture
Texworld, Paris - www.sustainableorganicfarmsystems.co.uk - 15-09-2010
ConclusionGet help and collaborate:
NGOsTrade Bodies
ExpertsExisting programmes
…Thank you.
Simon Ferrigno
+44 1843 845 919 +44 7940 462 311
Skype: [email protected]