A walk around

Al-BaladDowntown Amman

A walk around

Al-BaladDowntown Amman

To get to the heart of Amman it is imperative to explore al-Balad, the historic downtown that lies in the wadi (valley) created by the ancient Sayl Amman (Amman River). Ammanis are welcoming people, and they are happy to have you explore this vibrant core of their home and workplace. Take the pulse of the city as you follow this walk through the souqs (markets), shops, restaurants and historical sites of al-Balad. Taste the city, feel its energy, meet its people, and enjoy the experience of al-Balad. Ahlan wa sahlan, a Jordanian welcome you will hear often says “you are part of the family, and there are no hills between us!”

Amman in historyAmman is both an ancient city and a modern urban metropolis. In its wide valley floor, which was once fed by a regular flowing river, inhabitants of the oasis planted crops and hosted long distance trade arriving from the north, west and south. The history of the area now known as al-Balad can be traced back through the millennia and it was inhabited at least as far back as 6,700 BC. Tomb and temple remains from the Middle Bronze Age (1700 BC) indicate on-going habitation of the floor of the wadi. The Ammonite city-state, centered around Rabbath-Ammon in what is now al-Balad, emerged after 1200 BC. As you stand in the midst of downtown and look around you, it is clear why the Ammonites built a ring of fortresses on the mountain tops (jabal) around their valley home to protect it from surprise attack.

Looking up from al-Balad the domineering acropolis on top of Jabal Qala’a (the Citadel), which served as the holy site for worship and sacrifice for the people of the city for more than 2,000 years, can be seen. Stairs linked the downtown area with the acropolis, so that worshippers could easily ascend to the temple complex. Today Amman still offers visitors a unique horizontal and vertical landscape, with its hilltops and wadis (valleys) connected by stairs – a unique feature you will notice throughout this part of the city, and which remains to this day a key feature within the communities.

During Hellenic, Nabataean and Roman times, what is now al-Balad was the site of a thriving oasis trading city known as Philadelphia (City of Brotherly Love). It was part of the Roman Decapolis city network where traders, acting troupes and soldiers passed through the oasis on their way to the cities in the west or north to Damascus. Under the Byzantines and then the Umayyads the city expanded to cover much of the valley floor, with regional bureaucrats ruling from the heights of the acropolis overlooking it.

From the 12th to around the 17th century, however, the city slowly dwindled and died as trade routes and imperial attention shifted elsewhere.

Modern AmmanIn the 19th century modern Amman sprang, phoenix-like, from the scattered ruins around the valley floor. In 1878 Circassian refugees from Russian military advances in the Caucasus were resettled amid the ruins of al-Balad, thus starting the settling of numerous refugee arrivals. Mud dwellings were built and by 1905 when the great Hijaz Railway was being constructed many found work building or protecting the new rail link. Amman hosted a station on the line from 1904, and by 1909 the town was large enough (3,000 people) to have its first mayor and municipal council.

The Ottomans built an army base here, and during WWI it became a hub for communications. Overlooking al-Balad, on Jabal al-Ashrafiyyeh, near to where the distinctive black and white Abu Darwish Mosque now stands, Australian and British Desert Corp troops tried,

but failed, to take Amman on 18 March, 1918. With Allied advances, by late September 1918 the Turkish 4th Army were forced to flee, and on 26 September the ANZAC Mounted Division captured the village. British troops remained in the town until December 1919.

On 2 March 1921, Emir (Prince) Abdullah arrived in Amman from the Kingdom of the Hijaz with about 500 troops. At that time the town was home to around 6,000 people, who proceeded to decorate the town in anticipation of his arrival and to accompany him to the mayor’s house singing national Arab songs. By April he had agreed with Winston Churchill that he would rule Trans-Jordan from Amman with support from British airpower, a new 750-man Arab Legion force, and two armored cars located in the city. This was the foundation of the Jordanian state.

Al-Balad quickly grew as a thriving locale of merchants and eateries, places of worship and meeting places.

Though today fewer West Ammanis come to al-Balad to do their shopping, preferring the newer shopping malls that have sprung up around the city, the core of al-Balad remains vibrant with street life, restaurants and cafes, perfumeries, souqs (markets) and punters looking for bargains.

Where to start yourdiscovery of al-Balad?Al-Balad is the traditional market area of Amman where you can find almost everything - and for much less than you would pay in the western suburbs. As in many markets, the initial price is usually higher than will be accepted, so feel free to bargain with a smile.

A walk around

Al-BaladDowntown Amman

Jordan Tourism DevelopmentProject (Siyaha)

Tip: Al-Balad is always busy and visitors are always welcome, but remember that Friday is a Muslim holy day, and so shops may be closed that day or will close during prayers. As a sign of respect it is a good idea to dress conservatively when exploring al-Balad.

private sector financial institution in the Arab world. The headquarters were moved to Amman in 1948 as the result of the war. Today it has the largest Arab banking branch network world-wide, and has helped thousands of Jordanian businesses develop. The Shoman Foundation, set up in 1978 and funded by the bank, has given grants to support the education of thousands of Arab students at universities abroad, and provides funds to encourage scientific research and increased intellectual cooperation around the Arab world.

9 Immediately further along King Faisal Street, just beside the Arab Bank building and at the corner of a bookshop kiosk, there is a small street known as Habibah Alley. In the alley, on the right, is the original Habibah for sweets.

This sweet shop sells two types of kanafah, Jordan’s favorite sweet which is a must-try. Everyone knows that the best kanafah in the Middle East is made by the people from Nablus. It should be no surprise then that Habibah was founded in 1952 by Nabulsis who migrated to Amman, and though there are now a number of outlets throughout the city, this one is the most famous and an al-Balad tradition.

1Start your walk at King Hussein(or Husseini) Mosque.

This is one of the oldest mosques in Amman, rebuilt by King Abdullah I in 1932 on the site of an older mosque built by the second Caliph, Omar Bin Al-Khattab around 640 AD. The mosque is pink and white striped on the outside, but through the grille you will notice a rainbow of color inside. The great Muslim historian, al-Maqdasi, describing Amman in the late 10th century, said that “in the area of the souq, there is a fine mosque, whose courtyard is decorated with mosaics.” Tourists may be able to enter if dressed appropriately. Photographs are not allowed inside. On Fridays and during the fasting month of Ramadan worshippers spill out into the streets in front of the mosque to pray, temporarily halting traffic.

2 As you stand in the small square in front of King Hussein Mosque (with your back to the mosque), look to the left across King Talal Street where you will see a blue sign for Souq Bukharia.

Souq Bukharia, a fantastic shopping area for souvenirs ranging from lamps to tiles and prayer beads to teapots, was founded in 1929 by a group of Bukhara Muslims who had fled the new Soviet government in Bukhara. As you explore the narrow souqs you’ll be surprised at how much is hidden away in these shopping areas, which appear so small from the outside.

3From the same spot in front of King Hussein Mosque, turn to face the mosque and look to the left, at the end of the mosque, and you will see the entrance to Souq Al-Sukar (Sugar Market). It was named after its founders, the Sukar family.

The Mamlouks started processing sugar cane in mills throughout the valley, and between the 13th and 16th centuries the whole valley was a major global production site for sugar, while the wadis (valleys) of Jordan were its export routes. This was one source of the “Damascus Sweets” industry that has given the world baklawa and kanafeh. It is also the source of candied fruits and sugar-coated nuts “Jordan almonds”, which became popularly linked with weddings around the Mediterranean. Enter the Souq and enjoy the hubbub created by the merchants as they call out what is for sale from a wide range of fruit and vegetables, to nuts, pasta and spices. Walk straight ahead (explore the alleys to the left to experience the energy of this bustling market but be sure to return to continue the walk), take the first turn right at the only right hand turn before the end of the market. At the end of this short street notice Kabatilo and other shops for spices on the right corner where you can enjoy the aroma

and maybe some purchases before taking the left turn. After a short distance turn left again, passing by numerous shops that will excite your senses, selling nuts, spices and dried herbs all beautifully displayed and presented for purchase by individual weight.

4A few minutes walk ahead you will notice the Nymphaeum.

Built in 191 AD it is one of the lesser-known Roman archaeological sites in al-Balad. The Nymphaeum, dedicated to river nymphs, was with the city’s water source fed by the Sayl Amman – the river that ran through the wadi.

5 Staying back on the main road with the Nymphaeum on your left, follow Quraysh Street (Saqf Sayl) for 100 meters until you see brown signs in English and Arabic

on the far side of the street indicating the Roman Theater bearing off to the right. Follow the signs past the Tourist Police kiosk and down the steps to the colonnade along the front of the theater.

The Roman Theater, originally designed to hold 6000 people, with officials and rulers closest to the stage, the military in the middle and the hoi polloi nearest the top, is believed to have been built by Emperor Pius between 138-161 AD. It was restored in 1970. Still used frequently in the spring, summer and fall for civic activities ranging from concerts to graduation ceremonies, this site is the iconic core of al-Balad, reminding us of the ancient history of the oasis. Don’t forget to look across from the Roman Theatre to the Citadel commanding the heights above the city. There is a story that there is a tunnel leading from the stage to the top of the Citadel which Roman leaders used to ensure their privacy.

Within the grounds of the Roman Theatre, take time to enjoy the Folklore Museum and the Museum of Popular Traditions, each located to a side of the stage. Both contain a wealth of mosaics, jewelry, traditional household goods and Islamic battle standards to admire and examine.

Also visit the Odeon, to the right when you exit the theater. This has a more intimate stage with about 600 seats and is believed to have been covered and used mostly for lectures.

Near this site were the first buildings to house the Royal Court after Emir Abdullah arrived in Amman in 1921. The hill to the right of Jabal Qala’a (the Citadel) is Jabal al-Qosour, where you might catch a glimpse of the huge Jordanian flag flying over the Royal Court compound there. The armies of the Arab Revolt first camped there after Amman was liberated from the Turks, since it overlooked both the strategic Amman train station on the Hijaz Railway and the aerodrome at Marka. Emir Abdullah had Raghadan Palace built on the site in 1926 as the new base of the Royal Court.

Stop and tryThere are several fresh fruit cocktail stands along this route, and elsewhere downtown. Be sure to stop and try one.

Stop and tryOpposite the diwan is a first-floor café with a balcony overlooking the street with flags of the world painted on the wall. This is Balat Al Rashid, or Eco Tourism Café. It’s a good place to grab some Arabic coffee, play a game of backgammon or watch the buzz of downtown life.

Stop and tryEnter the little alleyway beside ‘Asmak Sarah’ where you will find a couple of the oldest bar/restaurants in Jordan (in that alley and the one parallel to it). Auberge and Abu Ahmad, have been open since the 1930s. You can order dishes at these restaurants or if you feel like seafood go across the alley to Asmak Sarah, pick what you want and tell them where to send it. Or try some falafel from Falafel Fouad, also in this alley.

Stop and tryTry some Jordanians sweets at either Habiba (a larger branch of the one next to Arab Bank) or Jabri. Al Quds restaurant is an extremely popular restaurant that serves local dishes, including the national dish of mansaf.

6Retrace your steps back to the Nymphaeum turning right between ABC Bank and the Nymphaeum and continue by the fruit and vegetable sellers on your left to the cross section (you will notice a police booth in the centre of

the road). Turning left, cross the street and take the first right turn into a street that is jam-packed with shops presenting numerous traditional dresses and costumes in every shade and hue imaginable. As you continue straight another street will merge - keep to the right to ensure not to miss the Gold Souq (Gold Market).

At the Gold Souq, lit up by the hue of gold vying for attention through the windows, jewelry of every shape and style imaginable (both gold and silver) hangs to tempt passers by. Wander into and among the little alleys off to the right and see where most of Amman buy their wedding trousseau. The traditional 21-carat gold of the souq is sold by weight, and so the fine workmanship is essentially a gift. If you are the first customer of the day, you might be part of an old gold souq tradition and receive a special discount from the merchant so as to bless the day with an early sale. Enjoy bargaining here for whatever takes your fancy.

7Back out at the entrance to the Gold Souq fronting on King Faisal Street near Time Center Shop, you should find a small peanut stand known as Sudani nuts.

Buy a bag of freshly roasted peanuts from the vendor and participate in a classic tale of migration and survival in the Middle East. Omar Barnawi (Abu Ahmed), the founder, left Nigeria as a young man heading to Mecca on the Hajj. He became stranded in Sudan (hence the name Sudani) for a time then found his way to Jerusalem, where he sold roasted peanuts outside Damascus Gate. With the war in 1948, Abu Ahmed fled to Amman where he set up his stand at the entrance to the Gold Souq and became a fixture of al-Balad’s landscape. Sadly, Abu Ahmed has passed away, but his son and grandsons have taken on the business and are happy for you to stop by their cart and sample nuts. Once finished continue straight ahead.

8Make sure that you look right at the Arab Bank building at #22.

Although the bank’s current headquarters are outside al-Balad, this was the original headquarters. The Arab Bank has had a profound impact on the Middle East. Founded by Abdel Hameed Shoman in 1930 in Jerusalem, the Arab Bank was the first

10Overhanging the street almost above Habibah is the Duke’s Diwan.

This is one of the oldest, well preserved stone buildings in the heart of Amman. Built in 1924 it caught the attention of Mamdouh Bisharat, the “Duke of Mukheibeh”, who immediately leased the building and set it up as an example and pioneer project to stand up to the onslaught of concrete and aluminum “culture” with the aim of keeping the city’s authenticity and character alive in the collective memory of its inhabitants. The Diwan’s doors are always open for talents, new and old, whether it’s music, writing, painting, poetry or drama. Casual discussions on the history of Amman regularly take place with guests and participants including royals, intellectuals, writers, poets, artists, historians, students, friends of ancient Amman and local and international visitors, who drop by and are welcomed into the Duke’s Diwan and immediately understand that the Diwan lives up to its name – Diwan in Arabic means the section of the house where the doors are always open to guests.

11 Walk a few meters and the road will veer right and take you outside Habibah (a larger dine-in version of the famous kanafah outlet) and also to al Quds

restaurant. Directly across the street there are a set of stairs. Go up the stairs noticing one of the many old-fashioned barbershops popular in al- Balad on your right. At the top of the stairs follow the aroma to find Abu Ali’s on the left.

Abu Ali’s is one of the only places in Amman where you can buy the Arabic sweet qatayif outside of the month of Ramadan. Resembling a mini pancake, these are traditionally stuffed with either white cheese or a mixture of nuts and spices, and folded over. Qataiyif are sold by the kilo; ask for “nus kilo lo samaht”, which means “half a kilo, please”. They are usually made in the early afternoon.

12Retrace your steps back to the bottom of the stairs and turn right, passing

the tempting sweet shops and turn right again at the corner. Keep a lookout to your right and in a small bustling alleyway of tables you will see the famous Hashem Restaurant.

Although Hashem Restaurant has a limited menu, it is perhaps the most well-known restaurant in Amman, and everyone eats here, including the Royal Family. Started by Hashem al-Turk in the 1920s, Hashem is open throughout the day whether for a late snack or an early breakfast. Ask for everything - plain falafal, falafal stuffed with onions, hummus, fool (tasty faba bean paste), bread and French fries. Cups of tea (no coffee), water and everything on the menu will not cost much - maybe JD5 for two people. It’s possibly the most typical Jordanian meal you can find.

13Continue straight and the road veers to the right. After a few meters you will reach the Jordan Post Office. Directly across the street, in and among

the DVD stores, is a large wooden door leading to a covered alley; this is the entrance to Jafra Café

The Café delightful sunny balcony over the main street offers a wonderful place to people-watch. Enter the alley and go up the stairs in the back to get to the cafe. This is a welcoming place where you can soak up the atmosphere while you smoke a shisha (water pipe), eat Middle Eastern food or sip tea, amongst locals of all backgrounds and traditions, catching up and maybe listening to an oud player singing of his lost loves. As you leave Jafra, notice the Arabic Hammam (bath) at the bottom of the stairs. Men might want to book a bath for later in the afternoon.

You can end your tour here, or continue exploring downtown. Head to the Jabal Amman visitor information center on Rainbow Street for more walking trails and information about Amman.