drive southern africa. isbn 9781770260085
TRANSCRIPT
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60 TOP SITES
96 CITY & TOWN MAPSCOMPREHENSIVE ROAD ATLAS
DETAILED RESOURCE SECTION
SOUTHERNAFRICA
DRIVING ROUTES AROUND SOUTHERN AFRICA
DRIVE
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S
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PI
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TO
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PI
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D
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PI
DSI
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PI
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36 & 37
PICTURE ROUTE
POLOKWANE TO CHIMANIMANI
SITE EASTERN HIGHLANDS......................................................
38 & 39
SITE NORTHEASTERN FREE STATE
SITE GREAT ZIMBABWE
......................................................
40 & 41
MAIN ROUTE INTRODUCTION
CAPE TOWN TO VICTORIA FALLS
......................................................
42 & 43
PICTURE ROUTE
OVERBERG TO MAPUTO
......................................................
44 & 45
PICTURE ROUTE
SOUTH COAST TO MAPUTO
SITE WILD COAST
......................................................
46 & 47
TOP SITE GARDEN ROUTE
......................................................
48 & 49
TOP SITE ZULULAND, MAPUTALAND
& INHACA
......................................................
50 & 51
PICTURE ROUTE
MAPUTO TO VICTORIA FALLS
SITE MANA POOLS
......................................................
52 & 53
TOP SITE VICTORIA FALLS
......................................................
54 & 55
MAIN ROUTE INTRODUCTIONCAPE TOWN TO SWAKOPMUND
......................................................
56 & 57
PICTURE ROUTE
WORCESTER TO GABORONE
......................................................
4 & 5
HOW TO USE THIS BOOK
......................................................
6 & 7
MAP OVERVIEW OF SITES
......................................................
8 to 11
BEST OF SOUTHERN AFRICA
ROUTES12 & 13
MAIN ROUTE INTRODUCTION
CAPE TOWN TO GHANZI TOWN
......................................................
14 & 15
PICTURE ROUTE
CAPE TOWN TO THE CEDERBERG
......................................................
16 & 17
PICTURE ROUTE
WEST COAST TO WATERBERG
PLATEAU PARK
......................................................
18 & 19
TOP SITE CAPE PENINSULA
......................................................
20 & 21
TOP SITE WEST COAST
FLOWER ROUTE......................................................
22 & 23
PICTURE ROUTE
ETOSHA TO GHANZI TOWN
......................................................
24 & 25
TOP SITE OKAVANGO DELTA
......................................................
26 & 27MAIN ROUTE INTRODUCTION
AI-AIS TO MUTARE
......................................................
28 & 29
PICTURE ROUTE
ORANGE RIVER TO AUGRABIES FALLS
CONTENTS
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L
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Ot
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Ts
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Ka
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Se
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Ch
Ch
GwKa
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Kw
M
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B
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Q
92 & 93
MAIN ROUTE INTRODUCTION
HARARE TO GORONGOSA
......................................................94 & 95
PICTURE ROUTE
HARARE TO NIASSA RESERVE
SITE NORTHERN MOZAMBIQUE
......................................................
96 & 97
PICTURE ROUTE
MAPUTO TO BEIRA
SITE GORONGOSA NATIONAL PARK
......................................................
98 & 99
TOP SITE MOZAMBIQUE
COASTLINE
STREETPLANS100 & 101
ORIENTATION MAP Southern Africa
showing cities and towns covered
Pretoria South Africa
......................................................
102 & 103
Cape Town South Africa
Windhoek Namibia
......................................................
104 & 105
Gaborone BotswanaMaputo Mozambique
......................................................
106 & 107
Maseru Lesotho
Mbabane Swaziland
Harare Zimbabwe
......................................................
108 & 109
Johannesburg South AfricaPort Elizabeth South Africa
East London South Africa
......................................................
110
Durban South Africa
Pietermaritzburg South Africa
Beira Mozambique
Inhambane Mozambique
......................................................
114
Beaufort West South Africa
Bethlehem South Africa
Citrusdal South Africa
Clanwilliam South Africa
......................................................
115
Colesberg South Africa
George South Africa
Estcourt South Africa
Graaff-Reinet South Africa
......................................................
116
Grahamstown South Africa
Knysna South Africa
Kroonstad South Africa
Ladysmith South Africa
......................................................
117
Lamberts Bay South Africa
Mashishing South Africa
Mossel Bay South Africa
Musina South Africa
......................................................
118
Newcastle South Africa
Oudtshoorn South AfricaPilgrims Rest South Africa
Port Shepstone South Africa
......................................................
119
Richards Bay South Africa
Rustenburg South Africa
Sishen South Africa
Springbok South Africa
......................................................120
Stellenbosch South Africa
St Lucia South Africa
Strand South Africa
Swellendam South Africa
......................................................
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Grootfontein
If you havent al
Hoba meteorite
worth a detour o
Tsumeb. Turn of
which has a trai
Daan Viljoe
If, after having
in true wildern
the civilisation
wheel towards
also p17) for y
Augeigas dam
and revel in ththorn trees wh
sinking sun.
Kaokoland and KuneneIn the Herero language, kaoko is
left-hand side (of the river) while
kunene is right-hand side, hence
Kaokoland describes the land to
the south of the river and Kunene
implies any land to the north (that
is Angola)
SWAKOPMUND TOVICTORIA FALLS (ZAM
Swakopmund 756km 893km
National West Coast
Recreation Area
If youre not in a hurry and youre
prepared to stop and smell the roses
(in this case, actually, its the not-so-
sweet-smelling seals), stop off at the
Cape Cross Seal Reserve on the
coast directly north of Swakopmund.The eared Cape fur seals are in fact
not a true seal species; they belong
to the sea lion family.
Cunene/Kunene
Win
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Cunene
Zam
bez
iCaprivi
GP
KhaudomGR Chobe
NPTsodilo
Hills
ManPoo
Etosha NP
Ruacana Falls
ZAMBIA
ZIMBABWE
ANGOLA
MaunGrootfontein Bulawayo
Livingstone
Masvin
Rundu
Katima
Mulilo
Victoria FallsRuacana
Tsumeb
Sesfontein
H
Lusaka
Rundu
Between Rundu and the Caprivi Strip,
travellers will notice roadside stalls
selling local Kavango handicrafts and
carvings. The Kavango ingenuity is
expressed in the form of stools,
walking sticks, masks and wild ani-
mals, all fashioned out of wild teak.
Livingstone Island
Having been taken to the island now
named after him, David Livingstone
wrote in his diary: [They] brought me
to an island in the middle of the
river, on the edge of the lip over
which the water rolls. Creeping with
awe to the verge, I peered down intoa large rent which had been made
from bank to bank.
The local Leya people of Zambia make offerings each February to the ancestral sp
dwell in the Zambezis Batoka gorge. The Zimbabwean Tonga people are protecte
rivergod, Nyaminyami.
516km 193km 10km
Victoria Falls
Livingstone
Katima Mulilo
Rundu
Via Zambia
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BRANDBERG NATURE
RESERVE
From the B2 heading out of Swakopmund,
the route peels off north towards
Damaraland major 4x4 territory. Youre
now in flat scrub country, so when the tallimposing Brandberg massif makes itself
apparent on the horizon, it comes as a
surprise to the senses. Why its called
brandberg (burning mountain) is not at
first evident, as its sometimes streaked
grey-white, sometimes has reddish-hued
potential (with a little imagination), and is
sometimes pockmarked with tenacious
trees. Its likely that at times the rock
takes on a glow as it stands reflected inthe dying sun. Famous for its White Lady
painting, Brandberg divulges a great many
more to tenacious hikers. Best experi-enced on a multiple-day excursion, a local
guide can help you track down the more
elusive sites. Numas ravine cuts into the
western face and will reveal rock art
depicting a snake, giraffe and an antelope,
with more paintings further along, near a
spring On the eastern face the shelters
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THE WHITE LADY
You need to want to see this ancient paint-
ing, especially when its a searing 40C
(104F), as it demands an energy expend-
ing walk together with a guide, which could
take up to an hour if agility is not at the
high end of your fitness scale. Its pro-tected by a railing but stands about 40cm
(16in) tall. Speculation puts it at 16,000
years old! At first believed to be a lady
because of the figures long, straight, light-
tinted hair this fact also confused early
experts who professed her to follow the
Cretan or Egyptian ar twork style its now
possible that its a male decorated with
painted clay in a shamanic situation.
Tel: 00264 61 255 977/85 7000Email: [email protected]
Website: www.nwr.com.na
DAMARALANDBecause of its remoteness, this vast
wilderness extending east of the Skeleton
Coast Park and northward to Kaokoland
can only be explored properly in a 4x4.
None of the roads are tarred, sizable
towns do not exist and western civilisation
is present only in the form of lodges and
Swakopmund to Sesfonte
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SOUTH OF ETOSHA
As you nose your dust trail ever north
across Damaraland, its your overnight
stops that break the monotony of the flat
scrub landscape. The following, off theC35, are worth a look-see. Huab Lodges
luxurious thatched bungalows sit on the
banks of the Huab River (most times, dry),
amid the granite kopjes of a private game
reserve. Here, hot springs could lure you in
place of the pool or you could be persua-
ded to stay awhile for a game drive, guided
hike or horse outride to rock paintings.
Further north, Kavita Lion Lodge, bordering
the southwest corner of Etosha, has bun-galows and a pool, but its appeal lies
more in the guided walks and excursions
into Etosha as well as Kaokoland. You will
also come face to face with the rogue or
injured lions that are nurtured here.
Further west, near Etoshas border,
Hobatere Lodges thatched bungalows,
pool and waterhole are on the Otjovasandu
River. The desert landscape of escarpment
and valley has inspired some writers to
PETRIFIED FOREST
Closest of the sites in the vicinity of
Khorixas is the Petrified Forest to the west
not exactly a forest, rather a hillside
of scattered broken fossilised logs, the
longest measuring 30m (98ft) with a
circumference of 6m (20ft). A local guidetakes you on a 500m (550yd) amble,
explaining how the logs were thought to
have been carried here by floodwaters
from melting ice some 260 million years
ago. The logs, soaked through with water
rich in silica (a form of quartz) over time
were preserved in perfect form take
a close look at the bark and concentric
rings in cross-section.
Tel: 00264 61 250 558Email: [email protected]
Website: www.nacobta.com.na
VINGERKLIP
Not to be confused with the Finger of God
south of Mariental that toppled off its
perch in 1988! This giant chalky Vinger-
klip, the limestone remnant of erosive
action in the Ugab River floodplain over
many millions of years, stands 75km
(47 miles) east of Khorixas Its spotted
SE
Fo
mo
in
ev
Ge
ta
ing
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THE DORSLAND TREKKERS
Northeast of Sesfontein, between
Ombombo and Otjondeka, is the first of
the monuments to the tough, weather-
beaten Dorsland trekkers. They were an
intensely religious group living in the
Transvaal who packed their wagons and
headed into the sunset after Reverend
Thomas Burgers, whose teachings theywerent quite in synch with, was elected
the new president in 1872. Dubbed the
doppers (meaning dampers after their
propensity for blocking all efforts at pro-
gressive reform), their idealistic zeal had
them trekking across the Kalahari dorsland
(thirstland) to find their land of Beulah
the Old Testaments Land of Israel, ear-
marked for Gods chosen people.
Tel: 00264 61 290 6000Email: [email protected]
Website: www.namibiatourism.com.na
RUACANA FALLS
Before the Calueque dam was constructed
20km (12 miles) upstream of the Cunene
River, the Ruacana falls used to put on a
far more dramatic display. Today, the pump-
ing volumes of water are diverted through
the underground turbines of the hydro-
electric power station. The little town of
Ruacana, 15km (9 miles) from the falls,itself grew from a camp established for the
workers. After decent summer rains, water
still tumbles and pummels spectacularly
over the rocks March to April are usually
good months to see this. The Cunenes
waters first separate into rocky channels
before hightailing it over the tall escarp-
ment and coursing through a 2km-long
(1-mile) gorge.
Tel: 00264 61 256 580Email: [email protected]
Website: www.namibian.org
EP
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RAFTING ON THE KUNENE
Half- to five-day whitewater rafting trips are
the highlight of activities run by the
Kunene River Lodge. Starting upstream of
Swartbooisdrift at the Ondarusu rapids,
trained guides manoeuvre rafts over froth-
ing turbulence that can culminate in test-
ing grade IV waters eventually finishing
DORSLAND MONUMENTS
Heading northwest after the monument
near Otjondeka to Kaoko Otavi, youll come
across the ruins of a church (a heap of
rubble, despite its status as a National
Monument, proclaimed in 1951!) in the
Joubert mountains. Thereafter, via the
D3705 D3700 and D3701 Swartboois
Kaokoland to Khomas Ho
OW
Th
co
Ka
tio
ho
so
us
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K
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(5
br
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34
Ma
ibl
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tec
an
Epupa Ermo'sOmarunga
Fort SesfonteinLodge
Kunene
River Lodge
Rocky Point
RuacanaFalls
EpupaFalls
Hoar
usib
Etaka
Cune
ne
Etosha National Park
Skeleton
Coast
ParkN
a
m
i
b
Steilrand Mt s
K
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o
ko
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ld
Ka
ok
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Home ofDorsland Trekkers
Dorsland TrekChurch Ruin
ANGOLA
NAMIBIA
Okauwe
Etanga Okahao
Purros
Otjiveze
Okalongo
Oshikuku
Ombombo
Kowares
Ruacana
Otjondeka
Ombarundu
Ombalantu
Etilyasa
Otjinhungwa
KaokoOtavi
Ombombo
Cambno
Swartbooisdrift
Opuwo
NaulilaChitado
Calueque
Sesfontein
Ombala-io-Mungo
Ondangwa
Ondjiva
Oshakati
C35
C35
C46
C41
C43D3707
D3709
D3707
M123
D3605
D3703
D3701D3608
D3635
D3705
D3704
D3710
C43
C43
C41
B1
100KM
MI 50
N
XANGONGO
TSUMEB
OTJIWARONGOSWAKOPMUND
Kaokoland
CROSSING THE DESERT
Also referred to as the Kaokoveld, this
primeval part of Africa demands that any
traveller crossing its expanse be 100%
self-sufficient food, water, medical sup-
plies, fuel and vehicle spare parts as
there are no towns, very few lodges, and a
lack of fresh water Roads are gravel
THE HIMBA
The only signs of habitation are the scat-
tered beehive huts belonging to semi-
nomadic pastoralists, the Himba, descend-
ed from the earliest Herero tribes. A very
beautiful people, the Himba can be seen
following their hardy cattle and goats in
search of grazing distinctive in the fat and
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ETOSHAS GEOLOGY
The shimmering white salt pan that
stretches as far as the eye can see has
earned Etosha its name: great white
place. Of the parks vast 20,000km2
(7800 sq miles), the flat saline desert
takes up 5000km2 (1950 sq miles), luring
wild animals of all shapes and sizes to
benefit from its mineral content. Twelve
million years ago, this existed as an
immense shallow depression watered by
the Kunene River, but climatic changes
and tectonic upheaval caused water levels
to subside. For only a few days a year,
rains fill the dips and channels, with yel-low-billed pelicans and pink flamingos
massing on the waters.
ETOSHA PAN
WHAT YOU NEED TO KNOW
Independent travellers can only explore
Etoshas eastern two-thirds; the remaining
third in the western extreme is the sole
domain of tour operators. Visitors have a
selection of three restcamps all with shop,
restaurant, fuel and braai sites, and each
differing nicely in character Prebooking
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NOAHS ANIMALS
Etoshas enduring appeal is perhaps the
staggering variety and numbers of its
wildlife. A bit like Noahs Ark which had all
the animals, two by two, youre likely to
see all of the Big Five (except for buffalo),
most of the antelope species (including
the rarer sable and roan) blue wildebeest
ET
Wh
the
of
lan
va
yo
su
Amazing strides in technology
have enabled permanently
placed 24-hour webcams at eachof Etoshas camp waterholes.
These record the minute-by-
minute rank and file of wild ani-
mals coming to freshen up.
People anywhere in the world
can log on to experience the
vibe of Africa.
Visitors wont fail to miss the
ubiquitous and quite gorgeous
AnderssonGate
Okaukuejo
OngavaLodge
Halali
GamkarabGuest Farm
ToshariInn
Graves ofDorsland
Trekkers
HaasEiland
EtoshaLookout
Etosha Pan
Lyapeke
Okasnanakana
Wolfnes
Okondeka
Ombika
Olifantsbad
AusGemsbokvlakte
Kapupuhedi
GonobHomob
Helio
Gaseb
Okaukuejo
Ojamba
C38C
D3605
D2761D2780
D2782D2780
D2779
B1
OTJIWARONGO
ONDANGWA
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KHAUDOM GAME RESERVE
Even by Namibian standards, this is true
wilderness, reinforced by the remoteness
of these extreme eastern reaches. Little
visited and offering no facilities whatso-
ever, travellers venture into Khaudom to
test their wildlife-tracking skills, as animals
are skittish and unused to car engines.
Edging onto Botswanas Kalahari, the
parks patches of solitary baobabs and dry
woodland survive on sandy soils that
become impassable during the rains in
late November to March. Fossil riverbeds,
known as omuramba, are lined with
reedbeds which rejuvenate in the wet sea-
son, luring animals crossing their tradition-
al eastwest migratory path.
Tel: 00264 61 285 7000/4 2111Email: [email protected]
Website: www.nwr.com.na
MAHANGO GAME RESERVE
This reserve (no facilities) sticks out like a
thumb off the western end of the Caprivi
Strip and in fact is part of the newly crea-
ted Bwabwata National Park. Its eastern
extent butts onto the Okavango River with,
as a result, a luxuriant profusion of riverine
woodland hiding colourful twittering life of
the bird kind. Birding fanatics will be over-
whelmed by how many different species
they can train their lenses on in the space
of a couple of hours quiet time at the
river look out for the Meyers and Cape
parrots daubed with wild red, green, blue
and yellow. Great herds of migrant ele-
phant pass through, too.
Tel: 00264 61 285 7000/200Email: [email protected]
Website: www.nwr.com.na
CAPRIVI & COMMUNITY
With the formation of Bwabwata, the
remaining sectors of the previous Caprivi
Game Park have been handed over to rural
communities, who engage in subsistence
farming in the wetlands and along the river
systems. South of Kongola, the Lizauli
Traditional Village sets out to inform and
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be
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fa
ap
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yo
ree
TeEm
W
To spot the wildlife (antelope
species including gemsbok and
Khaudom to Victoria Falls
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KATIMA MULILO
Sealing off the eastern end of the Caprivi
Strip is regional capital Katima Mulilo, a
not-so pretty town redeemed by its
extremely pretty wooded surrounds on the
Zambezi. The vivid hues of tropical birds
and chattering monkeys in the shady trees
flanking the river will distract you entirely
from the humdrum town. Of course, the
fishing is good; doing battle with a razor-
toothed tiger fish or the less feisty bream
is another worthy distraction. Otherwise,
tune-up, refuel and replenish supplies,
then quench your thirst at the floating pon-
toon bar moored at the Zambezi Hotel (do
note, though: limited opening hours).
Tel: 00264 66 252 739/3 586Email: [email protected]
Website: www.namibiatourism.com.na
LIVINGSTONE
Zambias old, colonial-style capital (see
also p51) is slowly, sleepily reviving itself,
but the action very definitely focuses on
adventure activities making best use of
the Zambezi Rivers mutable waters. Do
stay away in hot and horrid October (38C;
100F), made worse by its 90% humidity;
and know that the winter months of June
to September are dry and dusty. What
Livingstone does well is its plethora of
secluded, atmospheric lodges along the
river. If youre more into white-gloved
hospitality, the multimillion-dollar Royal
Livingstone, with its green lawns and river-
side sundowner deck, harks back to old
colonial gentility.
Tel: 00260 3 321 404/33 22089Email: [email protected]
Website: www.zambiatourism.com
MOSI-OA-TUNYA
NATIONAL PARK
This tiny reserve, Zambias smallest, is
made up of the Victoria Falls section and
the game park. In the wildlife sector, visi-
tors can take their own vehicle in, join a
game drive (arranged in Livingstone) or
sign up for a guided walking tour at the
ZA
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In an upliftment initiative, local
craftspeople at the Caprivi Art
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TAKE A FLIP
If youd prefer to match the fish eagles
view of the Great Zambezi, fold yourself
into a little plane to better understand the
rivers geological progression (if the river is
low) where it has sliced seven zigzags
across the 1.7km (1-mile) basalt lip over
which the falls thunder. The tumultuous
flow is eroding an eighth line at Devils
Cataract, on the extreme western end.
You also get great views of the lazy river-
flow above the falls as the Zambezi
meanders around green islands before it
disappears into mist-enshrouded depths,
then reemerges at the foot of the sharplycut gorges which snake sharply off into
the distance.
THE WHITEWATER RAPIDS
High-water runs usually tamer because
of fewer obstacles take place around
beginning July to mid-August. Low-water
runs wilder because of exposed rocks
happen from roughly mid-August to late
December. Rafts bounce and slide for a
winding 22km (14 miles) from rapid 4 to
18 (sometimes to 23 request thisupfront) on the Zimbabwean side, and from
rapid 1 to 18 (or 23) on the Zambian side.
AL
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cu
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co
acak
the
TH
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(5
su
es
Za
em
Jo
ZAMBEZI RIVER (ZAMBIA)
Musa
Gate
South
Entrance Gate
Njok
o
Lui
Lumb
e
Kwena
Mulob
eziMa
chile
Ngonye Falls
KafueNational
Park
LochinvarNP
Naminwe Plain
NanzhilaPlains
Chunga
Kataba
N i dPemba
Chilala
Namwala
Chitongo
Bwina
Kalala
Itezhi Tezhi
M11
D361
B309
LUPUKA
CHISEKESI
100KM
MI 50
N
In Zimbabwe, rafts put in at
Big Eddy. In Zambia, the put-in
is at Boiling Pot this is the
closest you get to the Victoria
Falls in a raft. Rapid 9 is called
Commercial Suicide by the opera-
tors they all portage around it!
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CAPRIVI STRIP
Z
L
Luiana
NgonyeFalls
SiomaNgwezi
LuianaPartial
ReserveMulonga Plain
Unhe
SioLupuka
Sitoti
Mulele
Shangombo
Chibaranda
Rivungo
RD323
RD462
RD463
MONGU
LAND OF CONTENTION
Sometime in the early 1960s right through
to 1990, the Caprivi Strip was the centre
of strife and contention. And even in the
late 1990s, conflict bubbled over.
Historically, this 500km-long (300-mile)
strip was the domain of the Barotse; in
time it became a British protectorate, later
passed into the hands of Germany, and
then fell under South Africas wing until
Namibia gained her independence. The
Strip also failed to evade spillover from
the Angolan civil war. More peaceful today,
there are moves to involve the local farm-
ing communities in conservation efforts
along the Caprivi and in reaping revenues
for their own benefit.Tel: 00264 66 686 802
Email: [email protected]
BWABWATA NATIONAL PARK
Formed from remnants of the now disman-
tled Caprivi Game Park (see also p23),
Bwabwata occupies a western and an
eastern tract within the Caprivi Strip, on
the Okavango River to the west and on the
Kwando River to the east. Protracted con-
flicts here during the struggle for independ-
ence have undoubtedly taken their toll with
burning and clearing of vegetation, and the
hunting out of wildlife. On the plus side,
the natural migration route runs through
here, and the verdant aquatic vegetation
cant fail to tempt the passing animal
parade back to its turf. For now, elephant,hippo, crocodile and feline prowlers, lion
and leopard, inhabit the recovering terrain.
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POPA FALLS
At the Caprivis westernmost extent, near
Bagani, the Okavango River disperses into
a broad series of rapids that cascade over
the rocks, creating water channels and
splashing around islands. The Popa falls
dont exactly live up to their name but you
can spend some idle moments negotiating
-
8/6/2019 Drive Southern Africa. ISBN 9781770260085
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REGIONAL OVERVIEWS
DRIVING ROUTES EASY-TO-USE STRIP ROUTES
LOCATION MAPS
IMAGES & DETAILS OF TOP SITES
FULL 64 PAGE ATLAS SECTION COVERING:SOUTH AFRICA, LESOTHO, NAMIBIA, BOTSWANA, ZIMBABWE & MOZAMBIQUE
96 CITY & TOWN MAPS
DETAILED TOURISM RESOURCES
Map Studio 2008. Previous edition publishedas the Touring Atlas of Southern Africa ISBN1-86809-807-9. All rights reserved. No part of
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