Dynadroit Transmission Cooler Instructions 3/10/09

Please read these instructions before you start installing your kit.

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Transmission Oil Cooler Kit

Review of Transmission Cooler These pictures, below, are a little different than the parts you will receive, but not by very much. This transmission cooler, installed on the 2002 Duramax by a GM dealer in 2004 before the owner of Dynadroit Inc started working with South Bend Clutch for Duramax double disc clutches, has worked well. The GM dealer decided to input a transmission cooler to help save the stock LUK DMF single disc organic clutch kit due to huge transmission temperature impacts. Increased transmission temperature was causing impacts on the pressure plate, organic clutch plate, and the DMF flywheel AND on the hydraulic clutch (slave) actuator cylinder which controls the pressure plate. This transmission cooler helped a lot and let the LUK clutch last longer but has really helped the SBC clutches tested on this truck. There we re a few small problems on this cooler which have been fixed by us. There will be some notes about this below. We have had no temperature impacts on the hydraulic system in this truck and we have had no problem with any clutches per SBC. This transmission cooler, and with a Fluidampr crankshaft balancer, have helped this truck run very well with little vibration and lower transmission temperatures and no problems in the engine, transmission, shifter, clutches, and clutch pedal hydraulic system!

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Ok, here we start with information on how to set up your transmission cooler kit: Transmission Oil Cooler Radiator This is the first radiator installed for cooling the oil in the ZF6 transmission:

This truck has quite a few aftermarket upgrades, but these pictures should not have any problems on installing this transmission oil cooler kit on a stock Duramax, Cummins, or Powerstroke diesel pickup. This radiator is tied into the stock radiators and the oil tubes are connected at the bottom. The radiators now sold in our kits are almost identical to this one. Transmission Oil Hoses The hoses are about 7.5 and 6.5 feet from the radiator to the transmission and the pump (based on this truck). The hose on the right is for the oil coming in and it then comes out on the left side:

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The oil hoses are moved around the diver side of the truck and tied to the top of the driver side of the truck frame to keep them away from the engine. Here you will see the two hoses running over in to the top of the frame above the tire and then how they are moved down below the engine oil filer.

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These hoses are tied over the frame behind the front tire, and then they move down on the inside of the frame by the place where stock engine oil filter (this truck has an Amsoil BKW-18 oil kit) is connected to the lower back side of the Duramax. The transmission oil cooler pump is on the frame just back from the stock engine oil filter and directly across from the metal (PTO) plate on the driver side of the manual transmission. Oil Cooler Pump, Transmission PTO Plate, and Wire/Hose Plugs

The left hose on the pump is connected to the lower left plate on the ZF6 to pull the oil out of the transmission and pull it into the pump. The pump pushes the oil thru the hose on the right side of the pump (both hoses are at the lower end of the pump with brass plugs) and push it through the hose that is the first one, on the right side of the picture, above, into the radiator. The oil pushed thru the radiator comes out through the hose on the left side of the radiator (picture above) and comes out cooler and through the plug on the top left side of the transmission plate drop cooler oil into the transmission. On the right side of the transmission PTO plate are two more plugs. The lower plug is for the cooler pump switch-temp for sensing the transmission oil temperature. Ones the oil temperature gets up to 180-210*F the pump starts getting the radiator to cool the oil. The higher plug on the right side of the transmission plate is a gauge sensor (not like a switch-temp) for the transmission temperature gauge. This gauge allows the customer to make sure that the cooler system is working properly. We do not provide the temperature gauges but customers can get them from several companies (like Auto Meter, etc.) This truck has never had the transmission get more than 210*F while running from Denver to Indianapolis in one day. The same was true for a one day run from Houston to Denver. This trunk has a SBC DD Max Con CB and it has never been a problem. It is our decision that this cooler, and the Fluidampr crankshaft balancer, have solved both the temperatures and vibrations. Electrical Wire To begin with, we are showing items that have wires connected to them. After these pictures there is a drawing for connecting all the wires, especially to the Relay, and more instructions down below the electrical drawing picture. There are two wires, black and red, on the top of the pump. The black one is screwed to the frame just to the left of the hose on the picture here to the ground:

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The red wire, on the pump, is connected for power for the pump, but must go through the Relay and then to be connected to a battery, like this red wire box in the engine (of a Duramax, but on any other truck it can be connected to a wire coming out of the battery).

The Relay can be connected to the electronic box, to hold if from falling off. The Relay is used to control each of the wires. The wires from the Switch-Temp, Pump, Battery (or power wire), and Ignition Switch will all go into the bottom of the Relay:

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As shown up above, the Switch-Temp will be input into the Transmission PTO Plate and the wire (shown as yellow on the top picture, but any color can be used), will be run up into the Relay.

The type of switch-temp that we use is hard to find other makers of this type and the reason we use it is because several other types we had got the wire broke off and could not be put back on. As a result this is the best we have ever used. The Ignition Switch will have a short red wire but should be connected to another wire the same color used for the Switch-Temp wire to connect it to the Relay. The Ignition Switch will be connected into the fuse box inside the truck, in a Duramax this one is on the driver side of the dash board, and will hold two fuses. The fuse that is inside version of the switch will be the same as the stock fuse, but the one on the outside version of the Ignition Switch will be a 15A fuse for the Relay. To install the Ignition Switch you will need to locate a stock fuse that gets shut down when you turn off the key. If the transmission oil pump is running, you will need this Ignition Switch to turn it off when you turn off the truck..

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Electrical Instructions Drawing Review this drawing to understand how to connect all the wires:

Based on this drawing you will notice that the Pump, Switch-Temp, Ignition Switch, and the Battery will have wires that go into the Relay. The wires from the Switch-Temp and the Ignition Switch both control the power from the Battery thru the Relay and into the Pump. When the truck is shut down, the Ignition Switch will shut down the Relay and the Pump, even if the Transmission Oil is up above 180*F (but will never get over 210*F!) If the blue fuse on the Ignition Switch is broken, it will also shut down the Pump. As a result, you need to get a Transmission Temperature Gauge to be able to view the temperature in the transmission and verify that the Transmission Oil Cooler Kit is working well.

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The Relay is a 12 volt 30 amp control of power moving thru it. The relay plug 30 is for the red battery wire power. There needs to have the 12v15a fuse on the wire before coming in to the 30 plug. Connecting a red wire on the 87 relay plug and connection the other end of the wire on to the red wire on the pump will be used to control power to run the pump. When you look on the Relay picture (up above) you will notice that the 30 and 87 are not completely connected. They do get connected but only when the other two plugs are set up properly. The relay 85 plug receives electricity (12v15a) from the Ignition Switch in through the 30 to the 87 plugs to allow power to run thru the relay to the pump. However, the Ignition Switch power will not work unless the Switch-Temp is turned on (up by oil temperature.) The Switch-Temp wire connected to the 86 relay plug will become the ground for the Ignition Switch when the oil temperature gets the Switch-Temp up to working. The wires from the battery power thru the Relay into the Pump will/will not work if 1) the black wire on the pump is not connected to the ground (problem), 2) if the oil temperature does not get up to 180*F – 210*F the Switch-Temp will not start the ground to the Relay to start the pump (normal), 3) if the Switch-Temp gets damaged (unlikely, however) it will not get the ground to send power through the Relay to allow the power to run into the pump and get it running (Transmission Temperature Gauge will notice if the oil gets over 210*F then the pump is not working), 4) if the fuses in the battery wire and the Ignition Switch are not working then the power will not pass thru the Relay into the Pump, 5) if the wire plugs fall off the bottom of the Relay the system will not work (suggest taping the wires/plugs to the Relay to insure they don’t fall off!), and 6) power wire from the pump and from the Switch-Temp start at the bottom of the truck and run up along the driver side of the frame up towards the battery to get into the relay. Those wires need to be covered with wire hose to keep water, etc. from impacting the power. Additional Information This kit will work on any diesel truck, even on an auto or manual transmission, as long as there is a transmission side plate like the PTO plate seen on our pictures of a ZF6 manual transmission. You will need to get two 14GA wires, at least one that is red, for connecting your kit. As you install this kit there are a couple items to pay attention to prevent from future problems. As you install the plugs into the transmission plate, it would be important to insure that they are bolted in tightly and add in some glue (like J&B Weld) to keep the oil from leaking out. The glue should be on the inside of the transmission PTO plate. Once you finish installing the wires, especially to the switch-temp into the transmission, you should get some plastic wire cover hoses and wire tape. It is important to cover the electrical wires and switch-temp connection to keep them from getting damaged by wind, rain, water, snow or, if you ride of road, mud can also be a problem!

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Here are some better pictures of you kit.

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We are very thankful for your order of our transmission oil cooler kit and we wish you great experience in installing this kit correctly and saving your future problems. We also suggest that you eventually get a Fluidampr crankshaft balancer also to reduce your diesel engine vibration.

sales@dynadroit.com

720-262-6213

NOTICE: This document is intended to provide information on how to do the proper installation of this kit. However, the customer is responsible for getting this kit to work properly. The owner of Dynadroit Inc has been using the key components (i.e. pump, switch-temp, relay, oil hose, wires, ignition switch, temperature gauges, etc.) for many years and has not failures. If you have a failure it will likely result in an incorrect installation. If you have any additional questions please re-read this instruction one more time prior to contacting us for more instructions as a customer of www.dynadroit.com for proper use of this kit. As a user, it is your responsibility to learn various different methods for inserting a transmission temperature gauge that will also match the other gauges (i.e. BOOST and EGT, etc.) which you already have, or plan to install, on your truck. You need to check the internet to obtain the correct gauge for your transmission (i.e. Auto Meter gauges.)

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