Early Japanese Buddhism and Dogen Zen: Kyoto, Uji, Koyasan, Nara, Eiheiji

Dear Friends, Thank you for joining us on our pilgrimage to Japan. Please see the rough itinerary below. This pilgrimage is a very special one; we follow Dogen’s footsteps, including the first temple Dogen established in Uji, Kyoto and Eiheiji; a temple established also by Dogen in later years, and other two lineage of Japanese Zen. We also visit temples which were established in the early 7th century as well meet unique artisans in Nara. This trip is lead by Sensei Kazuaki Tanahashi and Roshi Joan Halifax. Mayumi Oda, an artist, teacher, and a practitioner plans to join us while we are in Kyoto, Nara, and possibly in Mt. Koya. Itinerary April 3rd Depart (from North America or Europe) April 4th We meet in Kyoto for the first dinner together at Nanzen Kaikan which is located right in front of the historic and magnificent “Sanmon” gate of the

Nanzenji Monastery, one of the headquarters of the Rinzai School of Zen. The entire group meets with Roshi Joan, Sensei Kaz, Mayumi, and Mitsue for an introduction and overview of the journey. April 5th After breakfast together, we visit the Nanzenji Monastery compound where we meet the head of administration of Nanzenji. We listen to a dharma talk and sit zazen, followed by our first council as a group. We have lunch together at Junsei, which is famous for their tofu course menu. The afternoon is free to explore. You may want to stroll on the beautiful Philosopher’s Path; the Ginkakuji temple, which is iconic for Japanese aesthetic “wabi sabi;” and other temples along the way. Nanzenji Kaikan is located in the Higashiyama district. Many of the historic temples are within walking distance. Dinner is on your own. April 6th

After breakfast, we visit Mt. Hiei, a headquarter of the Tendai sect, the place where many of the founders of different sects in Japanese Buddhism studied when they were young, including Zen Master Dogen. Dogen first entered Mt. Hiei at the age of 13 and became a monk the following year. We visit the memorial place of his ordination: Yokogawa. We enjoy a special vegetarian lunch in a restaurant in the countryside. The afternoon is free to explore Kyoto. You may want to explore the Nishiki Market for traditional food; Ken’nin’ji temple where Dogen studied before and after his trip to China in Gion; and Kyoto’s most famous GEIKO and MAIKO districts. Dinner is on your own. April 7th After breakfast, we visit the first Soto Zen temple founded by Dogen, Koshoji temple, in Fukakusa, just south of Kyoto. We have free time to explore the streets in Uji, famous for matcha, Japanese green tea. Also, the green tea ice cream is wonderful. Then, we visit Manpukuji, a headquarter of Obaku lineage of Japanese Zen. We will have Chinese style temple food served in Manpukuji. Dinner is on your own. April 8th

We travel to beautiful Mt. Koya, established first in 819. It is a sacred mountain opened by the legendary monk Kūkai (or as people call him, Kōboō daishi). There are many myths around him, and Mt. Koya is one of the most powerful Buddhist practice places in Japan. We stay at Sanbo-in, one of Koyasan’s historical Shukubo – temple lodging for three nights.

April 9th After breakfast, we meet with the Abbot at the temple where we are staying. He will offer a dharma talk for us, then visit Kongobuji temple with a scholar who practices in Mt. Koya. Lunch is on your own. The afternoon is free to explore deeper in Mt. Koya. You might want to visit Okunoin, a vast and gorgeous cemetery area, including the place Kōboō daishi is said to have entered eternal nirvana. We gather together again for a special temple dinner. April 10th After breakfast, we gather for council. The remaining day is a great time to explore the pilgrimage trails and to experience this high valley with eight mountain peaks and many exquisite temples. We gather again for a beautiful temple dinner and sharing. April 11th After breakfast together, we take a chartered bus to Nara. We stop for lunch at a restaurant which is known for using local ingredients. Upon arriving in Nara in the afternoon, a map and orientation about Nara will be given. In the late afternoon, we gather at Design Work Studio to meet Roshi’s friend, Hiro Minato, who knows literally everything and everybody in Nara. Minato-san will give us an orientation to Nara. We all have dinner together in downtown Nara. April 12th After breakfast at the hotel, we go to Toyouke no mori, a place established by Hiro-san and Mayumi Oda to promote sustainable living and a meeting place for workshops and retreats to learn Japanese wisdom, traditions, and craftsmanship. There is an option to go for a short walk to visit a nearby temple. At lunch, we gather together to enjoy freshly harvested vegetables. After lunch, we return to downtown Nara to see a demonstration by a master brush maker and see various traditional crafts known in Nara. Dinner is on your own. April 13th

After breakfast, the day is free to explore the ancient temples and museums in Nara and beyond. Lunch and dinner are on your own. April 14th

After breakfast, we start our day at Nigatsudo. We dedicate chanting of the Heart sutra, as well as Enmeijuku Kannongyo at Nigatsudo. We meet the head of one of the temples in the Todaiji compound, Mr. Hashimura, followed by council and lunch. The afternoon is free to visit museums and temples. Nara

offers so many fine museums, such as Nara National Museum, Kofukuji National Museum, Todaiji museum to name a few. Dinner is on your own. April 15th After breakfast at the hotel, we gather together, and travel in a chartered bus to the Eiheiji Temple in Fukui. Eiheiji is one of the main temples in the Soto Zen School, founded by Dogen in 1244. Once we enter the temple, we follow the temple’s rigorous guest schedule – bath, Zazen, supper (medicine bowl), dharma talk or discussion. April 16th We continue to follow Eiheiji Temple’s schedule. Wake up time is 3:50am. First, we sit Zazen, then join whole community of monks for formal service in the Buddha hall. We will be part of a practice unchanged for over 770 years. A tour of the temple compound is given by resident monks. Then you have some free time to explore the temple on your own. After lunch (on your own) we gather at the Eiheiji temple office, then head back to Kyoto by chartered bus. We arrive at Kyoto in the late afternoon. Dinner is on your own. April 17th You have a free day in Kyoto to visit temples, shrines, museums, galleries, stroll up and down the streets, and shop. We gather together for our final council at 5pm. After the council, we have a specially catered and beautifully prepared celebratory meal together. April 18th After breakfast, we make our way back home. You can arrange an airport shuttle to fly from Osaka Airport (KIX) or Itami Airport (ITM) or take a taxi to the Kyoto station for your destination. Note that we hope we have created a schedule that brings us into close contact with the beauty and richness of traditional Japan, and particularly the life of Zen Master Dogen. Our faculty, Sensei Kazuaki Tanahashi, Roshi Joan Halifax, Mayumi Oda, and Mitsue Nagase will be offering their perspectives and support in learning about the power of the traditions in Japan as we move through our days. This pilgrimage is especially important as most of Roshi Joan’s dharma successors are joining us for the pilgrimage.