EAST WEST 2017 TRIP REPORT

PARTICIPANTS

Graham & Kerryn Blowes Phillip & Cynthia Croft Dickson & Joan Dalgleish (TLs)

Steve & Bev Luder Bob & Joan McKenzie (TCs) 1 – 14 May By Dickson & Joan The first week was a reasonably easy start to the trip, while we all settled in to what there was of a routine. At each evening’s Happy Hour we looked at the following day and a starting time was fixed (generally adhered to next morning) and talked about all sorts of things!

Collecting the water at Byron Bay After gathering on the 1st, on the 2nd we drove together to Cape Byron which surprised us with how busy it was, making parking tricky. We walked down to the beach and collected samples of the Pacific Ocean and stood by the lighthouse for the photo opportunity. Job done, we dispersed and found our own way back to camp. The transcontinental trip had begun at last after months of preparation!

Trip members at the Byron Bay Lighthouse , the most easterly point of Australia. Stopping overnight at Bonshaw Weir, the convoy made its way to Texas. The Historical Society Chairman and another volunteer were on hand at the museum where we gained an insight into the history and character of this interesting town. Well worth the visit and the modest entry fees were, we were told, greatly appreciated. Next was a visit to Lightning Ridge, staying at the caravan park next to which a Club Gathering will be hosted later this year. On the way we had our first taste of the outback dust by taking a back road. Two nights gave us an opportunity to see as much or as little of the town as was preferred. Views of it were mixed, ranging from the disinterested (touristy!) to the very interested (intriguing, different). Viva la difference! Then a drive through the Grawin Opal Fields to Sheepyard Inn. So different from the developed Lightning Ridge, but interesting nonetheless. This Inn was not serving an evening meal so thoughts of our first dinner together evaporated. Some made their way to the Glengarry Hilton instead, somewhat less glamorous than others with same generic name. Week 2 started (8th May) with a drive to Bourke, the first half off the bitumen. The first problems were identified and, happily, dealt with; a non-working fridge was found to need some soldering and an errant Anderson plug was replaced. A problem at a bank (not the customer’s fault!) took some time and required a visit to the branch which delayed the next morning’s start. However, after a drive up the Dowling Track there was time for a cold one at The Royal Mail Hotel, Hungerford, before making camp for two nights in Currawinya N P. After two days driving from A to B, most set off for a tour of the N P while one couple enjoyed a day’s fishing and yabbying. After inspecting the bilby display, with a sample of the

feral-proof fence, and the woolshed, we drove to the Granites for morning tea and a walk. Sadly, the lakes, one salt and the other fresh when there is water, were both dry, so there was no birdlife, except, of course, for dozens of shy emus. Continuing up the Dowling Track, we found our way via Thargomindah (recalling the very successful 2015 Annual Gathering) to Autumn Vale Station, home of the most welcoming and hospitable Brigitte and Roly. Much of the second day was spent in communal preparation for an evening camp oven roast dinner with the owners as ‘guests of honour’ along with their vivacious jillaroo, Erica. Brigitte extended an invitation to all Trakies to visit and camp for a while. She was very generous in her comments about the benefits our 2015 Gathering brought. A small donation to the hospital was made in recognition of the owners’ generosity. A drive down the Bulloo Downs track included a bush camp which had to be late in the day for a couple of reasons. The first was a very embarrassing incident when the T Ls’ caravan parted company from the vehicle, fortunately on the track out from camp and still on the station. A great example of mateship followed when Trakies rallied to fix the problem while the somewhat shell-shocked TLs looked on. Fortunately, it seems no lasting damage was done, except, of course, to the TLs’ self-esteem!! The second reason was an unwelcoming notice at the first Bulloo Downs gate - “Private Property – No Camping”. There had been attempts to ask for permission to camp, now we knew why they were unsuccessful. We decided to pull up on the road reserve before dusk and depart early. The week ended in Sturt N P where we had the campground to ourselves. Another highlight was experienced, at least by Dickson, who celebrated his birthday by sharing haggis and bashit neeps with his fellow Trakies (some willingly, some hesitantly, but most seemed to enjoy it!) followed by a birthday cake generously provided by TCs. 15 – 28 May By Phillip & Cynthia Third week on the road and we have settled into our routine and getting to know each other. A rest day in Tibooburra was enjoyed after our days of driving. The rest day gave us

the opportunity to celebrate Dickson’s Birthday in true Scottish tradition with haggis. Bob, Joan D and Joan M serving the haggis Some explored the “town” with the museum, rangers’ office and the older buildings around town of interest. A drive along the Gorge Loop Road (100km) showed history of the Mt Wood station including a

horse drawn whim, wool scour, shearing shed and shearers quarters. A walk up Mount Wood gave a fabulous 360 degree view across the flat country and the gorge lookout gave another view. As rain was forecast for Thursday we agreed to leave Tibooburra a day early and make for Innamincka before the rain. Dickson celebrating his birthday with a “wee dram”. Driving from Tibooburra to Innamincka took

us through Sturt NP with abundant kangaroos/euros and lots of road kill that attracted wedge tail eagles, great photo opportunities, and crows. Scenery on a large clay pan where we had lunch was a highlight! Cracked and shining mud/silica made great photos. Cameron Corner for lunch with entertainment from the resident dog and horse. Continued over dunes through Strzelecki Desert and camped not far from Merty Merty station on side of road adjacent to sand dunes. Beautiful sunset and another photo opportunity.

Wild Horses at Cooper Creek Innamincka Through more of the Strzelecki Desert along the Strzelecki Track and into Innamincka. Camped on Town Common next to river for a relaxing afternoon. Happy hour saw about 40 wild horses including several small foals come down to the river for a drink and swim. Enterprising horses used the boat ramp for easy entry and exit to water. Met up with another group of Trakkies for dinner at the Outamincka restaurant. Rain, thunder, lightning and wind descended while eating dinner and kept up through the night and the next day. We appreciated having left Tibooburra early as we witnessed many vehicles arriving and heard stories about travelling on tricky tracks during the rain. All roads out of Innamincka were closed and although the weather cleared to blue skies and sunshine we sat out the next four days in Innamincka. So what did we do in this time - puddled through lots of mud; walked to the pub and store; searched for geocaches; found out how to access the internet; visited the old hospital and information centre, the

cemetery, and the site where King from the Burke and Wills party was found; lots of walking; fishing and yabbying; bird and turtle watching; We took frequent trips to the rangers/store for the latest road report; enjoyed morning teas, happy hour around the fire and generally relaxing. We joined our Trakkie friends down the river for happy hour with entertainment on keyboard and drums from Barry Starr and Ralph Plarre. We all appreciated the rest and relaxation and were prepared for the next section of our trek from East to West.

There were still a few wet patches on the roads after Innamincka Week four and we left Innamincka with great memories. To Nappa Merrie station to see the Burke and Wills Dig Tree. The ranger from Nappa Merrie gave us a great talk about the expedition and the stories/conspiracies surrounding the expedition and the questions

that are still being asked about Burke and his behaviour. The ranger was obviously passionate about the history of outback Queensland and we recommend listening to his stories. As Cordillo Downs road was closed following the rain we travelled up road East of Queensland border passing through Arrabury and Planet Downs stations camping the night by waterhole north of Arrabury.

Visited Haddon Corner with Phil and Trakkie at the corner then to Deons Lookout and camped at Betoota waterhole. Three days at Birdsville – lunch at bakery including curried camel pies, pub for dinner, drive to Big Red and looking around the town. We are learning more about our travel mates with stories of a visit to a sex shop supposedly to buy a blow up doll to put on top of car, another couple have, on this trip, waved to a naked woman, spied on a man who thought he was on his own and stripping naked in the bush when searching for a geocache (we are told it was for the ants). Down the Birdsville Track and through the Sturt Stony Desert saw very flat gibber plains, little vegetation, and almost no wildlife or cattle. Several large lakes not far from Mungerannie Hotel where some dined and we camped the night near to the wetlands. After patching up a broken rear window we headed for Clayton Bore where we enjoyed happy hour by the campfire.

29 May – 11 June By Graham & Kerryn The start of our 5th week on the road together finds us at Muloorina for two nights then Marree for two nights. Some took the opportunity to do some maintenance, while others went for a drive to Lake Eyre South. On the second day at Marree we took a day trip south to Farina ruins, where the bakery got a hammering from our group, supplying loaves of bread and yummy coffee scrolls. The volunteers have done, and still are doing, an amazing job stabilizing the many stone ruins left over from when Farina was a major rail town. Then it was on to Coward Springs via Beresford rail siding ruins and other Ghan sites. The caretaker at Coward Springs gave us a good talk about the local history of the rail siding. On to William Creek for two nights via The Bubbler and Blanche's Cap mound springs. Some group members undertook a drive to Halligans Bay on Lake Eyre but never made it due to time limitations. Others stayed put doing some maintenance and catching up on a few domestic chores. Next day, with Phil and Cynthia leading, it was onto Algebuckina bridge, where Steve and Bev decided to test out their fishing skills (no fish for tea tonight though!). Setting out from the Algebuckina bridge with Kerryn and Graham leading, we spied two chicks from our group chatting up some bikies on the side of the road. We waited to see if our two chicks would disappear into the sunrise with the bikies, but, no, they decided to rejoin their more mature companions. We soon arrived at Oodnadatta for a fuel stop and morning tea. Along the way there were a few minor mechanical issues, but we all arrived safely at Arckaringa station, where a few minor maintenance issues were resolved (another errant Anderson plug and a punctured tyre). Most group members visited the Painted Desert walk and the lookout on an individual basis, mainly due to aforesaid maintenance issues as well as a few domestic chores. Happy hour was spent at the lookout taking in the sunset. We stopped at some more Ghan ruins on the way to Dalhousie Springs then, soon after, Steve and Bev called that they had a flat tyre. This turned out to be a tyre pressure sensor that had come loose, so a big sigh of relief there. Then came the major drama for the day when Phil and Cynthia got bogged while going across a sandy creek crossing. Various members of the group and some passing motorbike riders eventually dug the vehicle out. As it was getting late, Bob was tasked with finding a suitable camp site, which he did admirably. As we were setting up camp, and just getting the fire going, we had a visit from the S.A. constabulary! They breathalized Bob (only on his instigation I might add!). We thought we were going to be told that we couldn't camp there, but they were fine with it, and informed us that Dalhousie was packed out, so we had the best spot after all. A roaring camp fire ensured a robust happy hour discussion of the day’s events.

While at the Dalhousie Springs campground, Bob ran into the 4wd man that he uses to do work on his car at home. He was able to twist his arm and get him to fix a fault with his Anderson plug, all for the price of a bottle of wine. Our second day at Dalhousie Springs was spent on a day trip to Purni Bore, about 70 k's from Dalhousie Springs. We had lunch at the picnic ground, had a short walk, then drove back to Dalhousie. On arriving back, we discovered there were two additional trakkie vans in the campground (Ray and Brenda Lawn and Peter and Jan Burns). They joined us for an enlarged happy hour. Next day we set out for Mt Dare, visiting the Federal and Blood Creek ruins, arriving at Mt Dare about 2.30 pm. It was with great sadness that Dickson and Joan announced that they have to drop out of the trip due to family reasons. Phil and Cynthia will lead the trip with Bob and Joan taking care of the admin side of the trip. We had a very pleasant farewell dinner at the Mt Dare pub. 12 – 25 June By Steve & Bev 12/6/2017 Monday: Another beautiful blue sky day. Heading from Mt. Dare to Old Andado. Sadly Dickson and Joan have had to leave the trip today as their son is very ill. The 4 couples left in the trip will continue on. Old Andado is well worth a visit, plenty of room to camp and the toilets and showers whilst old are clean. The homestead is in its original condition with a great collection of memorabilia. Enjoyed our fire at happy hour. 13/6/2017 Tuesday: Travelled from Old Andado to Finke, everyone got Diesel and some groceries, then on to the Lambert Centre where we stayed 1 night. The access road is 4x4 only and quite rough and narrow in places. Interesting spot.

Lambert Centre, the geographic mid point of Australia 14/6/2017 Wednesday: From the Lambert Centre back to Finke, our intention was to get to Chambers Pillar off the Old Ghan Railway Road (Finke Rd). Unfortunately the Finke Desert Race was on the previous weekend and the road was terrible, very cut up and

corrugated. We didn't get to Chambers Pillar Bev and Steve had 3 blown shockers on their

van forcing a stop on the side of the track for repairs. There was however a great view to compensate for the early stop

Had to dig Phil out of the sand.

Fixing Shockers on the Finke Rail track

15/6/2017 Thursday: It was decided to head straight to Alice Springs for further repairs. Hadn't been on the road very long when Phil shredded a tyre and damaged the rim and shocker, so he now needs repairs too. Got to Alice Springs in the afternoon and booked into the Heritage Caravan park, can have a fire (bonus!) the shower block near us isn't that great but the water is nice and hot. 16/6/2017 Friday: Everyone spent today running around organising repairs, washing, shopping and phone calls. Bit of an anxious day for some of us! 17/6/2017 Saturday: Same as yesterday, not much to report. Getting colder at night now. 18/6/2017 Sunday: More of the same, did meet another Trakkie couple (not part of the club) Max and Anne

joined us for happy hour and a Pizza meal. Graham and Kerryn kindly went into town and picked up the pizzas. 19/6/2017 Monday: Moved to G'day Mate caravan park this morning. Nice van park (if you like van parks) very clean and lovely people, they will even park your van for you! Here we met up with another Trakkie couple Annie and Ian, who were club members and joined us for happy hour. Once again those of us that need repairs are running around all over town. 20/6/2017 - 24/6/2017: Still organising repairs during the days. Some of the ladies attended the Beanie Festival, a Fashion Parade where the clothing was all made from recycled stuff. We all head off during the day for a bit of sightseeing etc. A few of us watched the Ghan pull in, that's one loooonng train!! We had a couple of meals at the tavern, not bad for the price and you can walk from G'day Mate. Annie joined us as Ian had to fly back to Melbourne for a few days. 25/6/2017 Sunday: Left Alice @ 9am, heading to the West MacDonnell ranges and the Glen Helen Gorge, did a quick petrol stop at Glen Helen and a walk to the Gorge. Drove across the road to Finke No2 camp spot, nice spot in the river bed, bit sandy but the Vans managed it no problem. Able to have a campfire again, bliss! The scenery is just amazing in the West MacDonnell's if nothing else it's worth travelling that way for the colours and spectacular escarpments and gorges. 26 June to 1 August By Bob & Joan It’s Sunday when leave Alice Springs headed for the Gary Junction Road to camp on the Finke River near Glen Helen Gorge. Next day we’re still treated to the magnificent scenery of the MacDonnell Ranges on our right, camping overnight at Kunparrka Bush camp where Cynthia reacquaints herself with crocheting under Joan Macca’s watchful eyes. A border around a recently knitted rug was required and there were time and material constraints on Cynthia. Willies Rockholes seemed an ideal spot for our next stop but as there was no sign post to it the track took some finding but Bev and Steve’s maps came to the fore and we discovered an area of flat rocks six kms off the main road. Still on the Gary Junction Road we call into the aboriginal settlement of Kintore on Wednesday before turning south on the Sandy Blight Junction Road to camp at Maggies Bore that night. There were a few washouts along the road and in some sections we only averaged 15 kph. It was careful going. When we stopped that afternoon running repairs were required to Phil’s fibreglass canopy on his Ute. We put the “Bush Mechanics” to shame with our “fix”. On the next day Steve had an electrical problem with his three way fridge but our electronics wizard Graham solved the problem and had battery power connected again. Nearing the end of the Sandy Blight Junction Road we visited the Tjukurla community to drop off tennis balls from Tennis Australia but it was school holidays so Duncan, the Community Liaison person, locked them in the store to be distributed when the kids came back from holidays. Our next port of call was the settlement at Docker River for fuel. A few kids were playing outside the store when Joan Macca produced tennis balls, racquets and beanies. Kids came

from everywhere to get them. Soon there was a game of hit the ball against the wall of the general store. Then the dogs joined in a game of chase the balls which were in turn chased by the kids to get their ball back. Everyone thoroughly enjoyed themselves, including us. That night we camped at a bush camp and helped Chris and Mike from Caboolture fix their electric van brakes. The hex was still on Steve when the rear window on his Cruiser shattered but a yoga mat came in handy to successfully fill the hole. We spent the rest of the day relaxing. It was now WA time so a 9.30 start was really 8.00 am and that took a bit of getting used to. An early finish at Yarla Kutjarra was appreciated. Our next task was to deliver tennis balls to the aboriginal community at Warburton. But again due to school holidays our contact was away so we left the gear with Geoff, the paymaster at the Shire. While we were there we visited the Aboriginal Art Gallery and were impressed with the collection. Giles Breakaway provided magnificent views on our way to Hawks Nest and a rendezvous with Jenny and David Thomas. After a great night around a magnificent camp fire David gave us a lesson in gold detecting. Kerryn and Graham were impressed so it looks like they might have been bitten by the gold fever bug and are in the market for a detector. Then on to Leonora where we stayed for four days. Visits to Gwalia, Kookynie and Niagara Dam were of interest to everyone. Kalgoorlie was the next stop where a tour of the Super Pit was impressive. There was interesting architecture in the city and an interesting character with no clothing, except for an open long sleeved shirt, who visited the caravan park late at night to the surprise of Kerryn and Cynthia. On to Coolgardie and more gold mining history was found at the museum and the gold warden’s house which was built by Bunnings. A short journey through old gold mining towns led us to Rowells Lagoon with great bird watching opportunities and good walks. A highlight of the trip was a visit to Lake Ballard. Renowned sculptor Anthony Gormley’s installation of 51 sculptures, which were derived from laser scans of local residents, in this salt lake was impressive. They seemed to float on a mirage and extend as far as the eye could see. We arrived at Sandstone to “no fuel” signs on the bowsers. Fortunately the local shire allowed us to fill up at their pumps so we got out of jail. This was a great place to stay. Our next stop was at Lake Mason, an old homestead taken over by WA Parks. It also turned out to be close to the station where Steve’s mother spent some of her early childhood so he and Bev spent some time exploring the area. The trip was coming to an end but not before we visited Walga rock and a few nights at Wooleen Station. Our campsite at Wooleen was in a natural rock amphitheatre some 7 kms from the homestead. We had exclusive use of the site which provided a base to explore the Murchison River and surrounds from mud maps provided by Francis and David, the station owners who were featured on the ABC program Australian Story in 2014. Our final stay was at Tamala Station where we spent three days camped by the water’s edge at Shell beach. This was the starting point for a very long day to Steep Point and the end of

our journey. After an interesting time playing in the sand with maxtracks we all took off to all points north, south and east after three months of a great east west trip.

L to R Cynthia, Joan, Bob, Phillip, Steve, Bev, Graham and Kerryn

Trip’s End

Footnote from Dickson & Joan The decision to leave the trip was not taken lightly. Trip Leadership responsibility, particularly given the place of this one in the club history, weighed heavily. Also, the iconic ‘East West’ has been a personal ambition for some years. We should therefore explain that a son, Iain, who lives in the U K but whom some Trakie friends have met, was ill. We were trying to keep in touch as his condition seemed to be worsening but the remoteness was stressful. The decision to leave was driven by the need to be at home to get constantly up to date and accurate information.

Once home, it became clear that Iain’s condition was continuing to deteriorate and we decided to go to him. Sadly, on 18th August, Iain passed away. We are so glad we had several weeks with him and his wife, Carole. We are grateful to Bob & Joan and Philip & Cynthia for picking up the reins and leading the trip to a successful conclusion. We also thank those Trakie friends who sent comfort during and after this difficult time, we really appreciated it.