edge of the world

itinerary no. 4: a SeVen-Day inSiDer’S GUiDe tO tHe Watery WOnDerS anD frOntier Spirit Of taSMania’S ULVerStOne, BUrnie, artHUr riVer, tHe tarKine anD MOre.

the unbridled beauty of tasmania’s north west coast

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Uncover a quiet corner of an extraordinary island, where there’s no such thing as rush hour and space isn’t divided into cubicles. Instead, Tasmania’s huge skies and unique landscapes – such as the unforgettable Nut at Stanley – fill the heart with inspiration and your camera with memories. So, start a journey in the North-West... and see your world in a whole new light. Visit discovertasmania.com

nature I S YO U R CO N STA N T companion.

T H E R E A R E P L A CES I N Tasmania W H E R E

… A N D T H E Y ’ R E J U ST A C R OSS T H E WAT E R .

*Agents may charge service fees and/or fees for credit card payments which vary. Conditions apply. Prices & information are correct as at 28 Feb 2012 but may fl uctuate if surcharges, fees, taxes or currency change. Price is per person twin share. Airfares not included. Add an extra $83* for travel 1 – 30 Apr 2012, 1 Oct 2012 – 31 Mar 2013. Savings and price are subject to change based on the time of purchase. Offer is subject to availability at time of booking. Amounts payable to third parties not included. Please check all prices, availability and other information with your travel consultant before booking. ®Registered trademark of American Express Company. Stella Travel Services (Australia) Pty Limited (ABN 84 003 237 296) trading as Travelscene, Travel Agents Licence Nos NSW 2TA 002558, VIC 30204, QLD TAG252. Stella Travel Services (Australia) Pty Limited (ABN 84 003 237 296), Travel Agents Licence Nos WA 9TA284, SA TTA108, ACT 18800658. Independently owned & operated by Travelscene Pty Ltd. TSL02825_TWA3

Call 13 TRAVEL(13 8 7 2 8)

visit travelscene.net.auor connect to

facebook.com/travelsceneaustraliaINCLUDES 3 nights accommodation in a Pencil Pine Cabin

Full breakfast daily Signature wine and cheese tasting session3 course dinner at Highland Restaurant on one evening

Valid for sale to 30 Sep 12, unless sold out prior. Valid for travel 1 May – 30 Sep 12.

Cradle Mountain Lodge Escape3 nights FROM

$419*PER PERSONTWIN SHARE

Tasmania’s Western Wilderness Hurry, availability is limited!

the weekend australian magazine advertorial

heffield is a little town framed by some of the

most marvellous scenery in Tasmania: Mount

Roland and the Great Western Tiers in one

direction; the smaller tree-topped Badgers

Ranges in the other; and happens to host about 2000

square metres of painted walls. Each year, new creations

are added during Mural Fest (April 8-14), where nine

artists are selected to paint their interpretation of the same

theme. You’ll find that many of the towns around the

north-west have unique selling points. In nearby Railton,

it’s topiaries and Wendy’s rabbit pies; Latrobe is said to be

the platypus capital of the world; in Devonport, it’s the

Mersey Bluff and the Bass Strait ferry, Spirit of Tasmania;

in Ulverstone it’s the fairy penguins and the Leven River;

in Stanley it’s the giant rock The Nut and further on to the

Smithton region is the Tarkine wilderness, Australia’s

largest tract of temperate rainforest.Christine Middap

editor’s note

Cover: the rugged Marrawah coast.

From top: Whyte River; boat shed at Dove Lake

and Cradle Mountain; spoils of the coastal waters.

Take a captivating journey into the Tarkine, Tasmania’s forgotten wilderness and Australia’s largest tract of temperate rainforest. Discover a global treasure of cave systems, button grass plains and powerful coastlines belted by the ‘Roaring 40’s’, a place few people have ever seen. Accessible by car, and right at your doorstep during your stay at Tall Timbers Tasmania. Off er includes 2 nights accommodation and complimentary full buff et breakfast.

* Off er valid from 7 April – 19 September 2012. Price shown is per person twin share, accommodation is room only. Terms and conditions apply.

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. . . A N D I T ’S C LOSE R T H A N YO U T H I N K .

Call 1300 innkeeper or visit www.innkeeper.com.au

I N D U LG E I N Tasmania’s W I L D E R N E SS

� N I G H T S ACCO M M O DAT I O N F R O M $160* P P

GOinG WEST:Tasmania’s scenic coast

Any holiday in Tasmania’s North West Coast comes with an invigorating blast of salty air. Big beaches that stretch for miles, and smaller ones huddled between rocks, as well as ancient rivers and lakes wield the kind of magnetic

power that entices visitors out of their cars and into the irresistible marine blue. The iconic cruiser Spirit of Tasmania is a fitting way for tourists to arrive in

this region. The leisurely Bass Strait crossing from Melbourne to Devonport sets an appropriate watery theme for a week of sightseeing. Lakeside walks, river cruises and meals overlooking the ocean will create lasting memories

gathered between the Rubicon River and Marrawah, Tasmania’s most westerly

town. Along the way are several white sand beauty spots facing Bass Strait. At some, only gulls and driftwood fill the vista. At others, such as Boat Harbour Beach, a surf club and swimmers colour the scene. Succumb to the urge to join

them, but don’t let these dazzling white silica shores distract you entirely. Other treats await you, such as whisky tastings in Burnie; the World

Heritage-listed Cradle Mountain, just 90 minutes from the coast; and the ancient splendours of the Tarkine, the world’s second-largest temperate

rainforest. Try to see it all, but stop wherever a beach captures your imagination. Sometimes a blank sandy canvas demands footprints.

with its quaint fishing towns, fecund farms, mystic rainforests and rugged shores, tasmania’s north west coast is an adventure waiting to happen

The coastal road between Ulverstone and Burnie is dotted with appealing towns. Make a stop at Penguin, where our flightless feathered friends occupy the dunes from September to March. Take a morning tea break in one of many trendy cafes. Next stop: Burnie. This former industrial city is now a creative hub for papermakers, jewellers and artists whose works are showcased in the modern Makers’ Workshop. Its excellent cafe faces

out over beautiful West Beach, so why not have lunch? Continue west to Wynyard, a delightful seaside town with a world-class display of vintage Ford cars at the Visitor Centre. Nearby is Fossil Bluff, the site of Australia’s oldest fossil marsupial. Most stunning of all is Boat Harbour Beach, where white sands mimic the tropics and make for incredible views. Enjoy an overnight stay in Burnie, Wynyard or Boat Harbour Beach.

From top: Boat Harbour Beach;

Leven River; Stanley village.

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A motoring adventure begins as you drive off the huge red-and-white Spirit of Tasmania in Devonport or hop into your hire car at the airport. Turn west and follow the dramatic coastline to Ulverstone, 20 minutes away. In this lively seaside town bustling with shops and cafes, grab your first cappuccino of the day and maybe a picnic lunch. Turn inland to Gunns Plains, where the deep Leven Canyon will take your breath away. An easy 20-minute walk to the Cruickshank Lookout, 275 metres above the Leven River, reveals Black

DAY 1: ulverstone

Keep driving west to Stanley, a quaint fishing town dominated by an ancient 143 metre-high volcanic plug called The Nut. Take the steep zigzag path if you’re a fitness fanatic, or catch the chairlift to the top. Up here the two-kilometre walk weaves through shearwater nesting sites and shady groves sheltering pademelons. Amazing views are a bonus.

Having worked up an appetite, enjoy lunch in a sunny cafe in town before searching for arty souvenirs in restored-timber shops. Or delve into some of Stanley’s long history by visiting Highfield House, built in 1835 in elegant Regency style. This lovely estate shares a view with the bleak ruins of convict barracks.

If you’re tempted to set sail, Stanley Seal Cruises depart daily for Bull Rock, a sunny spot popular with Australian Fur Seals. The 75-minute trip is a holiday highlight. End the day with dinner at Nut View Restaurant at Stanley Seaview Inn, where the distant Nut catches the setting sun. Stay overnight in Stanley or Smithton.

day 3THE VILLAGE OF STANLEY

Bluff, the first peak with winter snow. Next, visit the Gunns Plains Cave,

a good picnic spot 15 minutes from Leven Canyon. The caves display stunning limestone formations and striking displays of stalactites and stalagmites. Platypuses and the world’s largest freshwater lobster swim freely in its underground river. On the road back to Ulverstone, Wing’s Wildlife Park is a delight. Pat koalas and watch Tasmanian Devils feed. Spend the night in Ulverstone or in nearby Penguin or Burnie.

Day 2: Burnie to Boat Harbour

Some people call Tasmania’s north west coast the edge of the world, and it’s easy to see why. Whether you’re standing on the summit of an extinct volcano at Stanley or walking the rugged coastline of the Tarkine coast, you’ll know you’ve found the gateway to true wilderness. This very special off er includes 7 nights accommodation at Innkeepers Hotels, 7 days car rental, National Parks Pass plus a BONUS $75 Free Petrol.

*Off er valid from 1 May – 19 September 2012. Price shown is per person twin share, accommodation is room only. Terms and conditions apply.

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. . . A N D I T ’S J US T AC R OSS T H E WAT E R .

Call 1300 innkeeper or visit www.innkeeper.com.au

Tasmania, SP E N D S O M E T I M E O N T H E E D G E .

� N I G H T SE L F D R I V E H O L I DAY S

F R O M $799* P P

Some people will travel great distances for a decent whisky, but fortunately Burnie is only a little more than an hour from Smithton. Hellyers Road Distillery, set high above the Emu Valley, offers tastings of its smooth Australian single-malt whisky. Glassy premises with a smart restaurant attract droves of tourists daily.

Nearby is the Emu Valley Rhododendron Garden, an 11-hectare plant haven with a range of species that make every season special, not just spring. Bridges, paths, lakes and gazebos add to the magic. Have lunch at the Tea Room.

Change up the pace with a trip to the manifestly wild Cradle Mountain, less than

two hours away, which offers an array of geological contrasts from alpine heathlands to ancient rainforests. Stretch your legs by walking around Dove Lake, a six-kilometre trek that takes one to two hours.

Art lovers should visit the Wilderness Gallery at the Cradle Mountain Chateau, where several rooms are filled with inspiring images from the world’s best photographers celebrating natural landscapes.

Your own camera will run hot at Devils@Cradle. This wildlife conservation park is doing wonderful work with the Save the Devil Program. Follow the charismatic Daisy the Devil on Facebook. Rest your head at Cradle Mountain.

DAY 5: Burnie to CrADle MountAin

Clockwise from top: Cradle Mountain-Lake St Clair National Park; one of many murals on Sheffield’s streets; Devonport’s distinctive Mersey Bluff Lighthouse; Marrawah, host to the Rip Curl West Coast Classic surf competition.

Climbing up the apex of marion’s lookout was easy and fun for kids because it had lots

of rocks, ladders and chains

— Clem, Discover Tasmania blog

Home of the Rip Curl West Coast Classic, Marrawah is legendary among boardriders. One hour from Stanley, this coastal fishing hamlet is Tasmania’s most westerly point, where the Woolnorth Roaring 40s wind farm whips up massive waves.

Minutes further south is Edge of the World – a lookout just as dramatic as it sounds with some of the globe’s cleanest air on record. Here, the Arthur River meets the sea in a howl of wind, crash of waves and logs tossed like matchsticks on a rocky shore. A poem on a plaque by tourism pioneer Brian Inder sums up its primal beauty.

Nearby is the village of Arthur River. Take a six-hour eco-cruise deep into the pristine Tarkine wildnerness and experience time unwinding. It’s hard to believe that such peace in a rare temperate rainforest exists so close to the rambunctious coast.

Head south and then turn inland through Kanunnah Bridge to nearby Sumac Lookout, which gazes down on Arthur River in its eucalypt-framed glory. Return to Smithton for dinner at welcoming Tall Timbers Tasmania hotel. Stay overnight in Smithton or Stanley.

day 4ARTHUR RIVER & THE TARKINE

The Nut, a magestic beacon of the North West Coast, is the central view from Horizon Deluxe Apartments. Complete with magnifi cent views over Stanley, heritage homes and surrounding beaches, our studio style suites are absolutely stunning and off er the true defi nition of luxury accommodation. Take a relaxing soak in our large free standing spa, enjoy breakfast in a king size bed, or sip coff ee on the private balcony. Our fully equipped kitchenette, fluff y robes and full breakfast provisions are just the start of what your trip to the North West Coast may hold. PLUS: complimentary bottle of premium Tasmanian sparkling wine on arrival. *Terms and conditions apply.

. . . A N D I T ’ S O N LY A SU N R ISE A W AY.

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Call 0448 521 115 or visit www.horizonapartments.com.au/autumn

Stanley, Tasmania. T H E N U T, F R E SH A I R , G R E AT P R O D U C E

A N D luxurious ACCO M M O DAT I O N A L L F O R $299* T W I N SH A R E

Day 7: DevonportWander Devonport, so dominated by the dazzling red-and-white Spirit of Tasmania, the city looks pale when she sails. Start with Home Hill, a National Trust property built in 1916, where 1932 Prime Minister Joe Lyons and wife Dame Enid raised their 12 children. This house invokes not just nostalgia for the Lyons family but for a bygone era and different way of life. More nostalgia is on offer at the Don River Railway, where a collection of steam and diesel engines bring a tear to the eye of trainspotters. Tours are available to Coles Beach, which take about 30 minutes return.

This is a nautical city so visit the Devonport Maritime Museum near the mouth of the Mersey River. Formerly the residence of a Harbour Master, it holds an extensive display of models, photos, artifacts and paintings. One current project involves the restoration of a 1936 fishing ketch. Tiagarra Aboriginal Culture Centre and Museum takes visitors further back in history. Located on Mersey Bluff, a traditional Aboriginal site, it holds more than 2000 artefacts. Ancient rock carvings dating back millennia are nearby. Finish your day with a riverside meal in Devonport, then stay overnight in town. •

Bid Cradle Mountain farewell and head to Sheffield, 60 minutes away. Enjoy the street murals celebrating local history before driving to Railton. This town is home to Seven Sheds Brewery, Meadery and Hop Garden, owned by famous beer connoisseur Willie Simpson. He offers tasting tours from Wednesday to Sunday.

Fifteen minutes north in Latrobe, sample sensational Belgian-style chocolate at the celebrated House of Anvers, where a cafe serves meals. Then take a trip to Reliquaire, a densely packed 20-room shop famous for its eccentric maze of delightful oddities.

Get back to the wide-open space at Barringwood Park Vineyard, 10 minutes south at Lower Barrington. This family-run vineyard offers incomparable hospitality and coastal views rendered more memorable by its heavenly prize-winning pinot noir. End the day in Narawntapu National Park, where the Rubicon River meets the coast and wombats, wallabies and other inquisitive creatures wander about at dusk. Stay in Port Sorell, Shearwater or Devonport.

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DAY 6: lAtroBe to nArAwntApu nAtionAl pArk