edible jersey city

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)eTHErseY ry:N EXT GEN ERATIONWith authentic flavors old and new Jersey City is a food lover's adventure.BYANTHONY GIGLIO N PHOTOGRAPHY BY CHRISTOPHERWEIL

I didnt think there rvas anything strange at all aboutI including Andrea Salumeria among my favorite con-I tacts in my iPhone, until my daughter recently askedme who she is and why shet there among otrr closestfamily members and friends.'Io begin witlr, Andrea Salumeria is not a woman; itta deli. And not just any deli-it's the best deli in JerseyCity When my wife and I moved into our horne in theHeights neighborhood seven )rears ago, just around thecorner from this legendary salumeria on Cenral Avenue,I asked owner Pete Soriano how early in the morning hearrives to make his exceptional mozz,arella. Withoutmissing a beat, he gave me his trademark "c'mori' smirk,put his hands together like he was praying, and said, "'Wemake it three times a day." That is why AndreaSalumeria is on my speed-dial list.Ifyouve trever been to Andrea, or never even heard ofit, you have my sympathy. But I get it. 'Who goes toJersey Ciry for gourmet food? Even more accurately, whogoes to Jersey City at all? My answer to either of thosequestions is this: Anyone who appreciates amazing,authentic ethnic food at insanely good prices. Eventhough my oftice is in Manhattan, a block from thevaunted Union Square farmers' market, and my two chil-dren go to school in Hoboken, two blocks from SobseysProduce (the best gournet shop in that town), I do mostof my shopping right here in rnuch-ignored Jersey City.And you should, too.But first, we need to get past the stereotypes. Sure, wehad a rough patch after the late '60s riots, when many ofthe locals fled for the 'burbs. In many ways, Jersey Ciry isthe Naples (Italy, not Florida) of New Jersey: crowded,unruly lightly governed, mob-friendly,, teeming withimmigrants, and home to arnazing pizza (see Gino's and

Cafd Rustique below). But over the past two decades, thecity has been coming back, slowly but surely, as evidencedby the slcyscrapers that have risen along the waterfront inthe Newport, F-xchange Place and Paulus Hook neighbor-hoods, as well as the many pockets of gentrificationthroughout Downtown, the Heights, Journal Square andl.incoln Park. So, if you havent been here in a while,come back, take a look around, and then eat your waythrough this giant mess of a city, You won't regret it.I'm a lifelong defender of this misunderstood. townbecause, well, itt in rny blood. I often joke-when peo-ple ask, why Jersey Ciry?-that all eight of my great-grandparents, fleeing the poverty of soutfiern Italy in the1880s, passed through Ellis Island and then made awrong turn: \7hile Martin Scorceset ancestors settled onGrand Street in Manhattan, mine headed to Grand Streetin Jersey City. And that is where I grew up, until-fulldisclosure"-my own parents gave up on the place andmoved our family to Bergen County in 1980. But then,after college, I met my wife and we moved into her hipnew apartment in then-undiscovered Downtown JerseyCiry into the former Baker's Chocolate Factory. As otrrfamily grew, we needed more space, and l)owntorn'n gottoo expensive for us. So, herewe are in the Heights, on abeautiftil, s),camore tree-linedstreet that boasts some of theoldest, Ioveliest Victorianhouses in the city. From here Ijurnp on my bike and run myerrands, all over town.Here's my Jersey City-with apologies to locals whoseopinions diftbr:

A feu of the uriteri faaoitehaunts (chckwise, fom apperbfi): Light Horse Tauem,M nte leo ne's Ba kery b i ergartenat Zeppelin Hall, AndreaSalurneria, dzssert alfesco at theLight Horse, Gino's Pizzeia, oneof Gino's speciahies. Center:M lo n e1,'s Me at Mar h e t.

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COFFEE: Home to a quarter-million people crammed into 15square miles of space, the city has only three Starbucls, none ofwhich, thankfully, are anFwhere near where I live and shop. \7henI'm feeling brave I'll walk into Caffd Italia (121 FranklinSt./Heights), a socid club with a coffee counrer thatt usuallyunmanned because the old guys are in the back planng cards orwatching soccer via satellite. If you can get proprietor SignorAntonio to make you an espresso or cappuccino, it'll be worrh rheef[ort. For a quick(er) fix I head to La Caridad, (231 CentralAve./Heights), a hole-in-the-wall staffed by Latinas who caJl me mianzor.The food is average but the cafe con leche is perfecto.BREAD: Hudson Counryt repurarion for fabulous crusry chewyItalian-sryle bread is well deserved, but the bakeries are dwindling.I mourned the bulldozing of Mariet Bakery in Hoboken-andwith it one of the few coal-burning ovens allowed to operate intown-to make way for condominiums. lWhile a Mariet retailstore remains (next door to the new condo), the bread is nowallegedly-they won't confirm or deny-baked in Jersey Ciry (rakethat Hoboken!). There are only four bread bakeries in J.C. that IUbuy from, and they include Eliot Bakery (442 Vest SideAve./\7.est Side); Angelo's Panetteria (14 lVales Ave./Marion);Second Street Bakery (402 Second St./Downtown), which hasexcellent sausage bread; and Pecoraro Bakery (279 NewarkAve./Downtown), my favorite of them all for big, rotnd panelks(similar to French boule).BUTCHER: Forty years ago, when Tommy Maloney started work-ing at the butcher shop that his great-grandfather opened in 1875,he recalls that there were at least I 0 good butcher shops in the JerseyCiry. Now, his Maloneys Meat Market (627 Newark Ave./Heights)is the only one left. "'!7hen I came into this business I was luclry,"says Maloney, adding, "'We were still cutting straight off the steers-and I can still butcher one with my eyes closed! Now everFhingcomes Cryovac-ed." Maloney will special-order a prime rib roast forme, or he'll French the bones on a cenrer-cut pork rib roast, and he'llage steaks for me in his cooler. After you order, he or one of his team(shout-outs to George, Danny and Erica!) hands you a receipt tharyou take to the cashier in rhe back ofthe shop, in a booth occupiedfor the past quarter-century by the lovely Linda Visco. Oh, dont for-get to grab a pound oftheir thick-cut bacon, too.BAKERY: On Sunday mornings I make a beeline to Monteleone'sBakery, (741 Newark Ave.fournal Square) to buy their fresh-baked croissants and crumb cake before they sell out. This place,which opened in 1946, has made a rum cake (be sure ro requesr irwith cannoli cream filling) for every major family occasion I canrecall. They even made my parents' wedding cake in 1961 , and (atpress rime) are recreating the five-tier, rum-soaked affair for the50th anniversary party that my sisters and I are planning for themat the beautiful new Maritime Parc in Liberry State Park (seeDining). I also go to Rizzot Bakery (208 Central Ave./Heights),where three generations of fuzzo women work the counter: NonnaAnna, her daughter-in-law Francesca (whot married to NonnaAnnat son, Michael, the baker), and her granddaughter-youguessed it-Anna. Michael makes an assorrmenr of fresh biscottithat I love ($8 to $10 per pound), as well as focaccia (sometimesflecked with rosemary sometimes thyme). They make pretry goodpizzahere, too, but I have other favorite haunts for that (read on).The new kid in town is Celeste Governanti, a Hoboken expat whoCehstc


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opened Made with Love (530 Jersey Ave./Downtown) in 2008 asa labor of love after spending 30 years globe-trotting as a fashionexecutive. Her cakes and cupcakes rival Manhattant legendaryMagnolia Bakery's in both beauty and taste. You can also havelunch there (great mac-and-cheese), as well as find her goods at thelocal farmers' markets around town't*YINf;: fught next door to fuzzot is Central Avenue'Wines (210Central Ave./Heights), my go-to bottle shop where owner Neil Stolz(and his parents) take very good care of me (and they will offer you22 percent offany case ofwine thatt not already on sale ifyou tellthem I sent you!). I also like the new-ish Buy-Rite'Wines & Liquor(575 Manila Ave./Downtown) down near the Holland Tunnelbecause owner Adithya Bathena has a great palate, high standardsand extraordinarily low prices. I have friends in Chelsea and the\7est Village who drive over from Manhattan for the values.PtrZZA: 'While there are pizzerias all over the ciry making perfectlyperfunctory pies, there are only rwo that, to me, stand out for excep-donal integrity and qualiry. For 30 years the Saputo family of GinotPizzeia, (380 Central Ave./Heights) has been making one pie in par-ticular that is the stuffof legend up here in the Heights: the GrandmaPie. Itt square, similar to a Sicilian pie, but about one-third thedepth. The crust is oiled, so it's crisper than normal, the sweet plumtomatoes are left chunky, and the mozzarella is sprinkled on minimal-ly. As my buddy Pat Longo says, "the Grandma Pie is proportion per-fection." The other noteworthy pizza is at Cafe La Rustique, (611Jersey Ave./Downtown). The place is run by a guy (who refused to beinterviewed) nicknamed by locals as the Pizza Nazi, because he suf-fers no foolish requests, like "less well done" or "extra cheese."\flhatever the complaints about him, his pizzas ate blistered, charred,crispy, thin works of art. Honorable mention to my quick go-to,Pizza Masters (278 Central Ave./Heights), where they make plate-sized pies, and know how to make a proper Margherita-with slicedplum tomatoes and fresh mozzarella-if you request it. And behindthe pizzrria (which you get to by walking through it) is Renato's, arestaurant thatt sort of the local "Cheers," where everyone remem-

\f,/HERE T(} DINTi conftss that I probably eat. i!1 rnarc than I dine aut itrjersey City, but these ore n1y favarite spots when I do go out.Ncte; &lany are BYA&, but caiJ ahead ta mske sure.

Az*can495 Washington Blvd./Newport20 l -222-0090 i azucarcubancu isine.comExecutive chef/owner N ick Vazquez's authentic Cubancuisine earned him a challenge on Throwdown! withBobby Floy for besl Cuban sandwich;Az(car's won.Light HorseTavernI 99 Washington St./Paulus Hook20 l -9 4 6-2028 | I ighthorsetavern.comGorgeously restored tavern, solidlyAmerican fare.Madame Claude Cafe3 64% Fourth St./Downtown20 l -876-8800 | madameclaudecafe.comAuthentic French BYOB bistro run byAliceTrolettoand Mattias Gustafsson, who also own Madame Claude Wine(234 Pavonia Ave./Downtown).Harco & Fepe289 Grove St./Downtown20 I -860-9688 | marcoandpepe.comGreat food; great beer: I often nurse a Fuller s ESB ale orthree whilwife shops ai her favorite dress shop, Tia's Plaee, a few doors doMaritin"le Parc84 Audrey Zapp Dr./Liberry State Parkin Liberty Landing Marina201-41 3-0050 | maritimeparc.comEasily one of the best things to happento Jersey City in decades (see sidebar).Mission Burrito557 Palisade Ave./Heights201-779-7376This authentic-Mexican Hoboken legend moved onup to the Heights.Amazing tacos, enchiladas and burritos.Rumtra's Cafe5 I 3 Central Ave.iHeights201-2 l6-9655 | rumbascafe.comLatin diner for delicious, fresh crispy tostones.Satis Sistro2 I 2 Washington St./Paulus Hook201-435-5 l5 I ! satisbistro.comCreative Mediterranean dishes (favoring Spain' ltalyand France) in a beautiful room; BYOB to boot.Taqueria Downtqwn235 Grove St./Downtown20 I -333-3220Awesome tacos and authentic Mexican fare,As my friend Allison Lwould instrucl you: Pork taco, Avocado tostada. Pork taco with lotshot sauce. Lamb taco. Fish taco.Van Halen blasting. Pork taco. Repe

ZeppeNin l-'lall88 LiberryView Dr./Downtown20 I -72 I -8888 ! zeppelinhall.comEnormous, raucous biergorten for bratsand brews. Great place for kids, too.

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THE BIG FISH IN TOWNMaritime Parc, which opened just over a year ago in Liberty State Parkadjacent to the Liberty Landing Marina, is easily the most buzz-worthyrestaurant to open in Jersey City in years. Sure, it has amazing views ofthe Hudson River and lower Manhattan, as well as the Statue of Libertyand Ellis lsland to the South. But it's also a beautiful restaurant in itself-a destination worthy of the schlep to the out-of-the-way park.

But what has me and my food-loving friends so excited is Chef ChrisSiversen's food, which skews naLrtical, for obvious reasons, as well asplayfully inventive and brilliantly creative. Unlike my favorite down-homeethnic joints here in town, Maritime Parc is not just a step up in overallexperience, it's a leap.Take, for example, his insanely addictive mashedpotato donuts, which he originally intended to be croquettes, but, sincehe tends to be a little obsessive, he wanted them to be symmetricalwhen placed on the dish. After much trial and error with various formsand rings and recipes, he explains, "l realized it was better to use puremashed potato instead of traditional croquette ingredientsJ'The result-ing donuts have a toothsome crust and creamy centen And they arevery very dangerous to your waistline.This past summer I kept going back for his feather-light smokedricotta gnudi, and his creamy rock shrimp risotto. Siversen's signaturedish, however; is his seared scallop and braised short rib with a tangy,silky sauce gribiche (a mayonnaise-style egg sauce). lt's a classic dish thatreflects his training at New York City's French Culinary lnstitute, butdoesnt seem at all fussy"l believe in using the freshest and best ingre-dients available," he says, adding, "l don't over manipulate them, butrather strive to create interesting combinations and flavors to let thefood speak for itselfl' -4. GiglioMnnrnue Peac

84 Audrey Zapp Drive,Liberty State Park in Liberty Landing Marina,Jersey City20 I -4 I 3-0050 maritimeparc.com

DELI: !7hen Andrea Sciveni opened Andrea Salumeria (247 Cenvd.Ave./Heigha) in 1975, Central Avenue was still doned with butchersand fish stores, bakeries and cafes, many owned by immigrants fromItaly just like him. -When I moved here in2004, all of them were gone,except one store that rivaled Andrea, called M&R Sdumeria (which isnow gone, too). Andrea remains and thrives, with a line out the doormost days between I I and 2. Signore Sciveni is now retired (he makescameos during the holiday season, when the lines stretch down thestreet), but he has left the store in the capable hands ofhis best long-

NEWARKAVENUE(aka lnternational Restaurant Row)lf you can't find it on Nework Ayenue-o seerninglyendless street ihot practicalty runs the length af thecity from west to eost-it probably doesnt existCasa Dante737 Newark Ave.{ournal Square201 -795-27 50 | casadante.comLegendary old-school ltalian ristoronte belovedby business bigwigs and wiseguy wannabes.Dosa Hut777 NewarkAve.{ournal Square20 I -420-6660 | dosahutni.comAs close as lndian food gets to a burrito here inLittle lndia. I love the spring dosa with garlic,and the gunpowder masala dosa.Little Quiapo530 Newark Ave.{ournal Square20 I -655-0384Filipino fast food: Rice noodles with chichorrones calledponcit polabok; as well as crispy fried pork shank.NhaTlang (akaThe Green Awning)249 Newark Ave./Downtown20r-239-r988Vietnamese grocery shop where I buy quail andduck eggs, and spicy condiments.Rasoi lndian Restaurant8 I 0 Newark Ave.{ournal Square20 I -222-8850 | rasoiindianrestaurant.comSolid lndian fare, served by witty waiters,proffering very tall beers.Sapthagiri Taste of lndia804 Newark Ave.{ournal Square20 I -533-8400 | sapthagiri.bizOffers solid dosas that are a perfectly burnishedbronze, and a place to sit.Saigon Caf6I 88 Newark Ave./Downtown201-332-97l I I saigoncafejc.comBeloved Vietnamese eatery run by an entrre familySolid food, casual atmosphere.Sava Polish Meat Market and Deli642 Newark Ave./Heights20 I -653-4032Authentic Polish soul food: meats, cabbage, noodles,vegetables and potatoes. Also, they just openedSava Diner at 346 Grove St./Downtown.

time counterman, Pete Soriano, who bought the store eight years agowhen Andrea's sons balked at the prospect. Soriano, 44, alongwith hislongtime team of Benny, Antonio, Johnny and Mikey, tells me he getsregular offers to set up satellite locations all over shs 5121s-and s6un-try-but insists that you cannot replicate what he and his sister, Nora,do in their tiny kitchen: making fresh sausage every Thursday, slicingprosciutto di Parma bener (read: thicker) than anyone this side ofParma, and pulling out those exquisite, still-quivering, fresh mozzarellanrdsts at least three times a day. 'rr

Chrk Siuenen of Maitime Parc

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