ediblewow fall 2013 no.24

Member of Edible Communities

The story on local food in Southeast Michigan l No. 24 Fall 2013

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food for thought edible WOWPublishers

Kate & robb harper

executive editorchris hardman

Food editorPam Aughe, r.d.

lAyout And designsusanne dudzik

coPy editordoug Adrianson

Writersnan bauer l cara catallo

Jody helme-day l dorothy hernandeznina Misuraca ignaczak l Annette Kingsbury

John Miskelly l nicole rupersburg

PhotogrAPhersKate harper l Jacob lewkow

Amy sacka

reciPe contributorsPam Aughe, r.d. l chef Katie berschback

nancy biehn l chef george vutetakisWhole Foods Market detroit

subscriPtionsJulie Blom

internJohn McKenna

Advertising sAlesrobb harper: [email protected]

contAct usedibleWoW

P.o. box 257, birmingham, Mi 48012248-731-7578

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Throughout the summer, I’ve watched my apple trees come back to life. As you may recall during the fall of 2012 we

suffered quite an apple shortage. A warm spell in March, with temperatures reaching 80 degrees, followed by freezing nights in April, destroyed nearly all of the 2012 apple crop. But this year, the official word from Michigan Apples is to expect a crop of 30 million bushels. If we reach that number, 2013 could rank as one of the top years for Michigan apples. The reason for the expected boon is simple: weather. “Great weather this past spring and summer, including cool nights, plenty of rain as well as a good amount of sunshine certainly helped,” reported Michigan Apple Committee Executive Director Diane Smith. “In addition, a long dormant period allowed the trees to store energy to help create a large crop.” I’m already anticipating what to do with all those apples: salads, pies, muffins, sauce and of course canning. I encourage all of our readers to visit an apple orchard this fall. Let’s show our farmers some support. Buy more than you normally would to help the farmers recoup some of their losses from last year. We can show you what to do with all those extra apples. To start you might want to visit michiganapples.com. This site is run by our very own Michigan apple growers and is packed with valuable information. Next you can visit the edibleWOW website for recipes, links and a list of apple orchards in our area.I’ll see you at the orchard.

— Chris HardmanExecutive Editor edibleWOW Magazine


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fallOctober, November, December

edible WOW

Features15 Lafayette Greens

18 Kidding Around

31 FoodCorps Connects Kids with Healthy Eating

Departments8 Notable Edibles

23 Liquid Assets

28 Feeding the Community

34 Cooking Fresh

37 In the Kitchen

43 Farm to Plate

46 In the Spotlight

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Rock City Pies nikita santches will be taking his rock city Pies to hamtramck this fall when he opens the self-financed rock city eatery at the corner of Jos. campau and caniff. included on the menu will be customer favorites such as his salt caramel apple, buttermilk blueberry and strawberry rhubarb basil pies, which he began baking for sale in 2010. santches and his father, who works in construction, spent as much free time as possible this summer readying the site of a former hamtramck restaurant for what he calls an eatery with a unique ro-tating menu. rock city will serve lunch, dinner and, yes, pies. An admittedly self-taught baker santches was steered toward food service by his mother after coming to Michigan from russia with his family. Fourteen years ago he began busing tables and dishwashing—which got him into the kitchen—and from there he mastered

food prep and then baking. “i’m not a pastry chef,” says santches. “it was just something i did.” About two and half years ago santches began his foray into the world of pastry chefs, working what seemed around the clock at st. Michael the Archangel rus-sian orthodox church in redford. Then he would take his creations to Ferndale and the pie-loving masses at the weekly rust belt Market. Perhaps his lack of classical training causes santches to look beyond the familiar when it comes to pie making. instead he chooses to put new spins on the classics, with such creations as white choc-olate cherry and mint blackberry. Where does santches get the in-gredients for his delicious pies? he says he looks specifically for stores selling Michigan products. he will pick up fruit, eggs, flour, and oats on trips to eastern Mar-ket but he also makes it a point to shop at the recently opened Whole Foods Market in detroit. Attendees of the market in Ferndale—an eclectic mix of re-tail, collectibles and edibles where rock city Pies began and were instantly loved—surely noticed santches’s absence early this summer. “unfortunately, yes,” says santches, when asked about whether he was of-ficially done with the market. santches embraces his time at the rust belt Mar-ket and is grateful to all who supported him there. he’s now using his past success to vault him into the future. And santch-es’s future appears very bright. he says

he has been approached by gourmet-type markets based in the tri-county area about selling his wares. This is definitely something santches believes he could embrace if it materialized.

—John MiskellyRock City Pies: 248-633-3072RockCityPies.com

Made by Mudgie’sThe birth of Mudgie’s deli is a classic example of serendipity. greg Mudge was a waiter at eph Mcnally’s in detroit’s corktown neighborhood when the op-portunity came to buy the business five years ago. “it was either i looked back and failed or wondered what if,” he says. “i couldn’t live with that.”

his foodie fan base is proof he made the right decision. The deli has racked up “best of ” awards from numerous publications and has seen healthy busi-ness from day one. From his support of local charities to his support of the lo-cal food system, Mudge is dedicated to a quality community as well as to quality food. Fresh food created in house has made Mudgie’s a hot spot in detroit. From salad dress-ing to roasted meats to brownie waffles, “nothing comes out of a can,” says Mudge. The deli buys produce from several detroit farms, including rising Pheasant and Food Field Produce, and uses other local products from slow Jams, great lakes coffee, better Made and Faygo. The deli is always trying new things. For example, after guests clamored for alcohol, the deli re-cently added adult beverages to the menu. The front counter case is teeming with local brews, with 98% coming from the Mitten state. Mudgie’s also offers local

wines and mead. Mudgie’s is known for its creative specials. in the run-up to the deli’s fifth an-niversary, which they marked this year, the deli featured a different sand-wich every week from around the

country. but Mudgie’s true fame comes from the deli’s everyday soups and sand-wiches. The soups have creative ingredi-ents, such as basil hummus, chilled blue-berry and kale. The sandwiches are named after friends and family. For example, “That’s Jared” is inspired by an employee who made the sandwich for himself every day; the

“Pulgini” is named after Mudge’s girl-friend and the “sho ’nuff ” is named for his grandmother, who would pitch in at the deli. When asked to do something,

she would reply “sho ’nuff !” Mudge’s dedication to quality food complements his dedication to detroit. he is involved with numerous charitable events and is always generous with food and gift card donations. Mudge shares the success of his deli with other local food entrepreneurs. little Mitten cup-cake, a local baker, has been incubating at Mudgie’s for the past year. A friend is trying to launch detroit tea industries and is testing the waters at the deli. For several years, the deli has taken care of Murphy’s Playlot, the playground across the street. on a recent Monday morning, among the goods scattered around the deli were basketball hoops destined for the popular neighborhood play area. With five successful years under his

Nikita Santches

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Greg Mudge

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belt, Mudge’s vision for the next five years is to continue thriving in cork-town and buy the building that’s been home to his namesake deli. “i’m at-tached to this building and i’m totally happy here,” he says.

—dorothy hernandez

Mudgie’s Deli: 1300 Porter St., Detroit; 313-961-2000; MudgiesDeli.com

Crane Cafésandhill crane vineyards never meant to get so out of hand—what began as a family hobby of winemaking has evolved into a thriving business in the hills out-side Jackson. “We were intending to stay very small,” says holly balansag, the vineyard’s wine-

maker. “We didn’t start thinking about the café until we were under way for a few years. especially being out in the country like we are, people were always saying ‘you’ve got to have someplace to eat out here!’” The crane café opened its doors in April 2012 and has been receiving rave reviews for its cuisine and atmosphere ever since.

The family decided to build the café when it became necessary to expand their cellar space to keep up with the de-mand for their wines. balansag’s sister, heather Price, took on the role as café manager and head chef and event coor-dinator for the banquet room. “everything here is homemade. [heather] has always been a really great cook—it’s kind of a passion of hers,” ba-lansag says. Their strong commitment to using locally sourced ingredients is in plain view on the board behind the café’s counter that lists all the farms and local businesses they buy from. The café has a set menu with occasional specials cen-tered on what is seasonal and fresh and is open only during tasting room hours. on “Thirsty Thursdays,” the café and tasting room are open until 9pm, and

heather creates at least two en-trees to serve for dinner. café staff are on hand to recommend wine pairings, while lo-cal musicians per-form on the stage in the banquet room. holly rec-ommends making reservations for Thursday nights

because they sell out quite often. in addition to supporting local food suppliers and musicians, they also offer the café walls to local artists to showcase their work. As for future plans, holly says they are taking it “a day at a time.” They intend to offer more planned dinners with wine pairings, wine appreciation classes and

wine-focused cooking classes. Whatever they plan, it will most certainly be with their customers in mind—those loyal patrons who just won’t let them stay small.

—Jody helme-dayThe Crane Café: 4724 Waltz Rd.,Jackson, 517-764-0679SandhillCraneVineyards.com/crane-cafe/

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Lafayette GreensDowntown sprouts a garden

By Annette Kingsbury

there’s a small triangle of green in detroit’s central business district, an oasis in a desert of concrete. its

neighbors include compuware world head-quarters, the federal courthouse, the lafay-ette and American coney island restaurants and campus Martius Park. lafayette greens is a

three-quarter-acre garden and park inspired by compu-

ware’s founder, Peter Karmanos, a master gardener and son

of a restaurateur. The garden combines his love of garden-

ing and his hometown. “he said, ‘i want to have an urban farm in detroit,’” recalls Megan heeres, compuware’s community Art and garden Program manager and art curator. over the course of a year, Karmanos’s idea morphed into a garden that doubles as an interactive community space where people can have lunch, sit or stroll, take a class or volunteer to raise food. built by compuware on leased, city-owned property where Michigan Avenue and West lafayette boulevard meet, it’s on the former site of the lafayette building, a 14-story, v-shaped office building that was demolished in 2010. Though a serious amount of food is grown here—1,800 pounds last year—the feel is park-like. “i think there’s some preconceived notions about what urban farming looks like from an aesthetic standpoint,” heeres says. “We have a responsibility to show that urban gardening can be done this way and to advocate for it.” “everyone is welcome into the garden,” says garden co-ordinator gwen Meyer. “if you can’t volunteer, come and sit. We really want to engage as much as we can.”

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The garden includes 35 raised beds at varying heights designed to be accessible for all abilities. The beds are built of recycled steel, with wooden benches on the ends. reclaimed materials are everywhere: i-beams, windows, fruit-juice barrels, broken concrete and fire rings are all put to new uses. Three small storage sheds, each unique, were sided with recycled pallets. The garden is portable should another use be found for the property. taken together, the lines, angles and curves create a pleasing urban geometry. The design, by beth hagenbuch of Kenneth Weikal landscape Architecture, received a 2012 honor Award from the American society of landscape Architects. The design encourages entry into the garden from various points. lavender lines both sides of the central promenade, an heirloom orchard borders one fencerow and workers in surrounding skyscrapers have a birds-eye view of the whole thing. Plantings include thornless blackberries, sunflowers, bolivian potatoes, brassicas, herbs, greens, squash, beets and more. There are even some small, inconspicuous beehives to encourage pollination. crops change from year to year. “in the fall we have a stakeholders’ meeting that’s open to the public,” Meyer says. From there she cre-ates a planting plan for the next year. The garden was designed to be environmentally sensitive. runoff water drains back into the water table, not city sewers, thanks to a swale planted in red-twig dogwoods at the low edge of the site’s four-foot slope. A gabion—a wire container filled with recycled concrete rubble—serves as a curb outlining the park. Although the garden is not certified organic, organic practices are used, includ-ing composting and interplanting. “We had to learn about the pests here,” Meyer says. she’ll squish some pesky beetles if necessary. of the total space, about a half-acre is taken up with gardening. The rest features umbrella tables, walkways, a pergola, the sheds and art. like everything else in lafayette greens, the art is portable; it’s part of a temporary sculpture program. Featured this summer was work by tim burke, a detroit artist associated with the heidelberg Project.

The garden is worked collectively by “a small but mighty staff ” aided by interns and volunteers. “We really didn’t want anyone to rent a bed,” Meyer says. The harvest goes to gleaners Food bank, the st. Aloysius street Ministry Program and the volunteers who help raise it. “if a person knows of a place that distributes food downtown, we give it to them,” she says. so in addition to beautification and food production, the idea is to foster community. “The thing i love about this space is, as people are sitting in the garden a common theme is, ‘oh, my grandmother used to garden,’” Meyer says. “We’re able to create a sense of owner-ship here.” Also offered are noontime lunch and learn talks, pop-up yoga, cooking classes, and tastings—all led by volunteers. children’s groups also visit; one group even created a mosaic for the pergola area over the summer. Though it’s not obvious now, lafayette greens is built on what was once a ribbon farm. The upper slope was once the bank of the savoyard river, heeres explains. “We are a city that has a farming history,” Meyer says. “spaces change. The garden is always changing, and the city is too. sometimes when you look at the city, you don’t think about what you can do.”

Lafayette Greens: 144 W. Lafayette Blvd., Detroit

Annette Kingsbury is a freelance writer based in Oakland County and a regular contributor to

edibleWOW.

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throughout each week, Mike Metzger and rusty Plummer stock their hickory Knoll Farms creamery products in 13 farmers’

markets from saugatuck to Farmington. And on the rare day when they don’t have to head to a market, they rest… until 5:30am, when it’s time for

the goats’ morning milking. sleeping in isn’t much of a possibility. twice a day,

Metzger, Plummer or their intern Alex Armstrong milk about 100 goats and care for those plus another 130 head. Most of the goats are the saanen or Alpine variety, with a smattering of la Manchas, toggenburgs, oberhaslis and nubians. “They all bring a little bit different thing to the table,” says Metzger. “saanen and Alpines produce the highest quantity of milk but [it is]

low in fat and protein, so cheese yield is not as high.”

Kidding AroundGoats earn their keep at Hickory Knoll

By Cara Catallo l Photos by Jacob Lewkow


Metzger and Plummer moved to their onondaga property 25 years ago. Avid goat breeders and enthusiasts, they showed goats competitively for 30 years—hauling them as far as california for shows and even winning some national championships in 2003. but, Metzger jokes, it was time for the goats to earn their keep. so 13 years ago the two expanded their farm to become a commercial grade A goat dairy, with bulk tanks that can hold a total of 1,000 gallons, largely destined to go to commercial milk companies that hauled and processed it elsewhere. “Most of the goat milk in Michigan gets shipped out of state and made into cheese,” says Metzger, whose “day job” is as a field educator for Msu field extension specializing in small ruminant animals, such as goats. rather than continuing to watch their product drive away, the pair decided to take advantage of a hobby Plummer began 40 years ago: cheesemaking. he became so good at his craft that his charbonnel won best in class at the 2011 American dairy goat Association national convention. “i know how to make cheese. That’s why we decided to build the creamery: to put that knowledge

to work,” Plummer says. Three years later, hickory Knoll Farms offers 12–13 varieties of cheese. For goat cheese, they offer plain and flavored chevres; feta; charbonnel (tomme); a cabra borracho —“drunken goat”—“made

using grand traverse cherry wine”; and a mold-ripened crottin du berger. They also offer cow-milk cheeses in a mozzarella; a Kronberg (Appenzeller); lounell; and a camembert-style Marie. A mixed goat-and-cow cheese deux laits (tomme) is available as well. “basically, you can make any cheese that is cow’s milk out of goat’s milk,” Plummer says. “People say ‘i don’t like goat cheese.’ Well, then, you’ve never had good goat cheese.” “one of our advantages is we have access to our own fresh milk to make our cheese,” Metzger explains. “We are considered farmstead cheese because the milk and the cheese are produced on the same farm.” having a creamery on site is no small feat. They had to designate a committed space to house and install machinery that has the appearance of half kitchen and half chemistry lab. Among the

“You can make any cheese that is cow’s milk out of

goat’s milk.”

five licenses they hold is one to cover the dairy and the goats; another to regulate production of the cheese at the creamery; and one designating the creamery as a licensed lab facility. They use the lab to test each batch for antibiotic residues, and although Plummer says they only use antibiotics when an animal isn’t well, they are required to test each batch of cheese. “Michigan has some of the toughest laws in the country,” he says. now Plummer makes about 90 pounds of chevre each week for farmers’ markets and restaurants and 60 pounds of feta every two weeks. each week he makes about 25–30 pounds of aged hard cheeses, which age at least 30 days before cuts the wheel to start selling them. The chevre can go from goat to market in less than a week. in the wintertime, milk becomes higher in fat and more concentrated because production is half of what it is in other seasons, but that’s enough for hickory Knoll to keep up with winter markets in bath, grand rapids, Farmington and beyond.

“The changes in the milk affect cheese manufacture,” says Plummer. “every batch of cheese is a little bit different. That’s just the way it is.” slight variations are just part of artisan cheesemaking, where cheese is

made in small 35- to 70-gallon batches. “it’s true artisan cheese and farmstead cheeses because you’re getting these variations,” explains Metzger. hickory Knoll Farms also sells eggs, natural beef, goat meat, rabbits and chicken. The name honors Plummer’s family farm, which used it in the early 1970s. The dairy’s official name is hK/new era dairy. “leaving the farm and coming here was the new era,” Plummer says with a smile.

Hickory Knoll Farms Creamery: Onondaga, 517-628-2749

Cara Catallo is a frequent contributor to edibleWOW.

“Machinery was installed that has the appearance

of half kitchen and half chemistry lab.”

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liquid assets

Brews& BikesBrew Tours celebrate cultures of craft beer and bicycling

By Nicole Rupersburg l Photos by Jacob Lewkow

When stephen Johnson started Motor city brew tours in 2009, he offered bus tours to three breweries during a

five-hour tour. The company now offers bus, walking and biking tours to breweries all over southeastern Michigan and even day trips to beer city usA, grand rapids. last year about 2,000 people took one of his brew tours. “i get to meet so many cool people,” Johnson says. “People will say to me, ‘oh, what a cool job you have.’ here’s what’s cool about it: the people i get to meet.”

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craft beer culture has grown exponentially in Michigan in the years since Johnson launched Motor city brew tours. The Michigan brewers guild, once so easily able to keep track of each new brewery that opened, no matter how small, now estimates that there are more than 140 craft breweries—microbreweries, super-small nanobreweries and craft beer giants like bell’s and Founders. This is up from 92 in 2009 and a mere three going back to 1991. Johnson’s tours cater not to the craft beer trend but to the promotion of craft beer culture. Though folks certainly do imbibe on these tours, the emphasis is not on being an all-out boozefest bouncing from brewery to brewery testing the limits of personal consumption and alcohol tolerance. rather, the idea is to promote the culture of craft beer in Michigan by bringing guests to meet the brewers in person, tour the breweries and learn more about brewing operations and local brewing history. While the company started out with bus tours, Johnson’s expansion into walking and biking tours has been very popular, and he plans on putting even more emphasis on the bike tours in the future. An avid cycler, he has found that there is a significant overlap between the craft beer culture and cycling culture. in April Motor city brew tours collaborated with oakland county on a bike ride to raise money for the Paint creek and clinton river trails. About 260 people came out for the ride and a total of $3,000 was raised for the trails. The riders began at clubhouse bFd in rochester hills, one of DRAFT Magazine’s “100 best beer bars” for 2013, then rode to rochester Mills brewery in downtown rochester and 51 north brewery in lake orion. The event was a big success. “This propels us forward; we need to think of other things like that that we can do to promote Michigan beer and biking.” A new bike tour he has introduced this year is the two-day bike to brew tour, a fully supported two-day ride in mid-Michigan starting in bay city and going to Midland and Mt. Pleasant. each day involved 35 miles of biking that ended with dinner, beer and a viP brewery tour. The tour sold out and Johnson may do more like it next year.

Johnson has expanded his parameters outside of the Motor city and its metro area, growing into “Michigan brew tours,” although the core is still the Motor city brew tours. he co-produces the new lansing beer Week and lansing beer Fest with his friend Paul starr. he offers shuttles to each of the three Michigan brewers guild beer Fests held in Michigan’s lower Peninsula, as well as the World expo of beer held every year in Frankenmuth. he also offers day bus trips out to Kalamazoo and grand rapids, two cities in western Michigan that are known on a national level for their craft beer culture. initially Johnson planned on expanding fully into grand rapids, but instead he chose to stay focused on southeastern Michigan, where he lives. “i’m not trying to be Wal-Mart,” he says. “you really have got to be in the local markets you serve. you can’t do this as a franchise.”

We need to think of other things we can do to promote Michigan beer

and biking.


Although he partnered with colorado-based new belgium brewing for the oakland county trails fundraiser—new belgium recently launched in the Michigan market and is known for its support of cycling culture together with craft beer culture—Johnson is by and large focusing on Michigan breweries. he always looks at how he can create events that get people excited. “it has to support Michigan breweries. even the new belgium collaboration all went back to support Michigan businesses. They have more resources than anyone and really care about their involvement in Michigan.” regular events include the brewery history and Prohibition history bike tours in detroit and a detroit automotive and brewing history bus tour in collaboration with show Me detroit tours; walking tours of detroit, royal oak, and Ann Arbor; bus tours through detroit and northern oakland county; and many signature events including a Mead day bus tour throughout metro detroit and a Father’s day beer cruise on the detroit Princess riverboat. next year Johnson plans on having fewer events but making them bigger while still offering all of his regular tours. The one thing they will all have in common: They’re all about Michigan beer.

Motor City Tour Co.: 248-850-2563; MotorCityBrewTours.com

Nicole Rupersburg is a Detroit-based freelance food, travel, arts and culture writer. She writes for several publications and also runs the blog Eat It Detroit.

Events include the Brewery History

and Prohibition History bike tours in

Detroit.

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What does the face of hunger look like? Molly Macdonald, founder and president

of ThePinkFund.org, would never have believed she’d see it in the mirror or in her own family. but after a series of personal catastrophes—including a cancer diagnosis and a job loss—she found herself outside a supermarket, unable to go in. “i had $1.63 in my purse,” she says. “i couldn’t even buy milk.” A friend who happened to be shopping saw Molly in tears outside the store. “she took me to her house, loaded me up with some things from her pantry, and told me about gleaners.”

Nourishing NeighborsGleaners Community Food Bank harvests food to help feed hungry

By Nan Bauer

feeding the community

Molly’s situation was not unique. “People are not aware of how big the numbers are when it comes to hungry people in southeast Michigan,” says deWayne Wells, president of gleaners community Food bank of southeast Michigan. “currently, there are three quarters of a million food-insecure individuals in the area, 300,000 of whom are children. A lot of people don’t have a sense of the scale and pervasiveness of hunger, or realize that their next-door neighbor or schoolmate may be going hungry.” in the battle against hunger gleaners has been on the front lines

for over three decades. officially founded in 1977 by former Jesuit priest gene gonya, gleaners currently provides the equivalent of more than 100,000 meals a day to people who could not otherwise afford food. gleaners collects food from a number of suppliers. While merchants and grocers are the largest contributors—donating overstock and slightly damaged, but still safe, goods—many other resources are tapped, including community gardens such as earthworks urban Farm in detroit. The food is then distributed to more than 550 soup kitchens, food pantries, shelters, disaster relief agencies and other nonprofit organizations. Making sure kids don’t go hungry is a top priority. “being hungry makes it impossible to learn,” says nancy garvin, director of school and community Partnerships at detroit edison Public school Academy. “For many children that come here, breakfast and lunch are their only meals. by having that weekend food bag go home, they’re guaranteed a meal over the weekend.” That bag is known as the backPack program. The smartbites program is another way to provide nutritious snacks during the school day and in afterschool care. both opportunities are part of Kids helping Kids®. “That need for food crosses all boundaries,” says Wells, “and when i see that light go on in a child’s eyes, that realization that he or she can help out the kid in the next seat or the next neighborhood, i feel so amazed and grateful to be doing this work.” one of Molly’s children opened her eyes in a different way. “in the first box i got from gleaners, there was a box of lucky charms, something i never would have bought,” she says. “My son was absolutely thrilled. he picked it up and ran to the neighbors and said, ‘look what my mom found at a new grocery store called the Food bank!’ now i had wanted to keep it a secret, but my son outed me, so to speak. i immediately realized that if i acted ashamed, he would be ashamed, too. And i decided then and there that shame would not play a part in our lives.” she points out a practical side to gleaners: “look, there isn’t a gas bank. There isn’t an insurance bank. When your income suddenly gets cut off, you have to be able to stretch every dollar as far as you can, and using the food bank helps you to do that.”

Wells acknowledges, “There’s an element of pride for a lot of people. They just don’t want to rely on the emergency food system. A lot of others don’t realize that they even qualify for help. so we try to distribute in the most affirming way that we can.” As a result, the pre-packed boxes that Molly and her family received in 2005 have been replaced by a client-choice model, where people can pull items from shelves and make their own order. Approximately 93% of every dollar gleaners receives goes to food and food programs, an efficiency the organization attributes to the generosity of its partners in both monetary and time donations. “our corporate clients don’t just want to write a check and be done,” says Wells. “They want that personal connection. so many will sponsor volunteer days for their employees.” A quick look

Natalie Fotias, Gleaners team member and Mark Hardy, VP/Secretary of Veteran’s Haven

DTE Energy volunteers

LaCrystal Davis, Gleaners team member


on a humid July afternoon in northwest detroit, 16 students are gathered in a cody high school kitchen classroom,

baking zucchini muffins and “Michigan Mitten bites”—no-bake cookies in the shape of their state. later that day, they will head over to the lafayette Farmers’ Market in downtown detroit to sell their goods, made from locally sourced ingredients, to weekday market patrons escaping the office to seek a dose of sunshine and local produce.

The students are part of detroit Food Academy, a program developed by Jennifer rusciano during her two-year stint as a service member with Foodcorps. A grant from grow detroit’s young talent provides the students a $7.50-per-hour stipend to learn from local food entrepreneurs and develop and launch their own food business enterprises. rusciano came to Foodcorps after spending her first post-college year as a Watson Fellow, touring 15 countries across the world to study the global cocoa supply chain. “i’ve had a lifelong passion for food and was always interested in the place where community intersects with agriculture,” says rusciano. “Through my research, i began to see that having a close relationship between growers

FoodCorps Connects Kids with Healthy Eating By Nina Misuraca Ignaczak

at the events section of the gleaners website also points to dozens of intriguing fundraisers, including the annual iron chef competition, a cook-off inspired by the popular tv show. chef steve Pilon of the Wooden spoon in brighton competed for three years, clinching the title twice. “i funnel money that would typically be earmarked for advertising into helping out charities, including gleaners,” he says. “i’d so much rather give back to the community and help people eat than put the money into coupons. What gleaners does is amazing, and i’m thrilled to be able to be part of it.” “gleaners needs more and more support because the need is greater and greater,” says garvin. “The children are our future, and so if they’re not getting the nutrition to gain the cognitive development that they need in school, where will we be 15–20 years from now?”

Gleaners Community Food Bank: gcfb.org

Nan Bauer writes about food and culture for a variety of on- and offline publications. Visit her at Nanarama.net.

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Enterprise Rent-A-Car interns collected donations equaling 1,400 + meals.

Demetrius Thomas, Gleaners team member

Hassin Almaleki, student/entrepreneur


and consumers is a better way to ensure justice in the system and wondered why had i never taken a look at that in my home state of Michigan.” launched in 2011, Foodcorps seeks to address the epidemic of childhood obesity in the united states. More than a third of u.s. children and adolescents were obese in 2010, according to the centers for disease control. The program sends service members to work in schools to promote healthy eating, school gardening and farm-to-school programs. during its first year, Foodcorps employed 50 service members on a salary of $15,000 per year to work in communities in 10 states, impacting over 50,000 children. That number increased to 80 members in 12 states in 2012, and plans are to expand to 130 service members in 15 states this fall. southeast Michigan host organizations have included the crim Fitness Foundation in Flint, the Food system economic Partnership in Ann Arbor, the Wayne state center for school health in detroit, and the detroit black Food security network. service members from these organizations have worked in schools in ypsilanti, redford, detroit, Flint, romulus and inkster. “i realized food and farming was a way of combining my interests in social justice, the environment, education and community development,” says robyn Wardell, who worked as a service member at the crim Fitness Foundation during the program’s inaugural year. Wardell now serves as a Foodcorps Fellow, working

to coordinate the program statewide, providing service members with resources, learning and networking opportunities. she established four elementary school gardens in the Flint community schools during her year of service. in 2012 dennis lackey took over for Wardell and has signed on for a second year. during his service term, he added another two school gardens to the program and focused on nutrition education and introducing new vegetables to students through classroom demonstrations and taste tests. “i was very fortunate: When i started i had more demand than i could meet immediately,” says lackey. Foodcorps service members are given a basic stipend and are expected to obtain additional community resources to support programs. Whole Foods’ Whole Kids program and lowe’s toolbox for education provided startup funds for Flint’s school gardens. service members identified other local funding sources to supplement their programs. so far, Wardell and lackey have been unable to implement a farm-to-school program to bring locally sourced food into Flint school cafeterias. “in Flint, the district has a lot of low-income students who qualify for free meals, so the volume is huge,” says Wardell. “The food service staff is wary, wondering if there is enough volume out there from local food sources to meet the needs.” concerns about liability also play into food service staffs’ reticence to embrace farm-to-school. “There is a level of comfort buying from big organization

like gordon Food service,” lackey says. “The food service director gets an alert on her smartphone if there are any recalls.” rusciano established a farm-to-school program in three redford schools, and helped sustain a pre-existing farm-to-school program in ypsilanti by facilitating a collaborative group with farmers, teachers, parents, students, food service staff and community members. “it’s a unique program and is paving the way for a coordinated school health team to maintain the program as ypsilanti schools merge with Willow run schools this fall,” says rusciano. Jana nakleh, who served at Wayne state university’s center for school health, worked on delivering nutrition education to students in disadvantaged communities. she says her biggest challenge was recognizing that students in these communities might not have ready access to the fresh fruits and vegetables she was teaching them about. but despite the challenges, she was able to see a positive impact from her efforts. “one afternoon a student offered me a cup with celery and baby carrots they had brought in as a treat for their birthday,” she recalls. “i got to see how he had increased his knowledge and awareness of healthy foods, and connected it to school by bringing in a healthy treat to share with his classmates and teachers.”

Nina Misuraca Ignaczak lives, writes and eats in Rochester, Michigan.

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Popy Aziz and Tarin Neela selling Mitten Bites at the Lafayette Farmers’ Market Students/entrepreneurs Summer 2013

Proud SuPPorter of the Ann Arbor film feSt. StoP by for AvAnt-GArde CoCktAilS And SmAll PlAteS.open tuesday–sunday for dinnerwww.theravensclub.com | 734.214.0400 | 207 s. Main street aa


cooking fresh

Fall Pam Aughe, r.d.

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Early FallApplesbeetsblackberriesblueberriesbroccolicabbagecantaloupecauliflowercelerycorncucumberseggplantendiveFava beansgrapesgreen beansgreensherbshorseradish rootKohlrabiMushroomsMuskmelonsnectarinesonionsParsnipsPeachesPearsPeppersPotatoes

Michigan Harvest Blackberry Pâtés de Fruits

nancy biehn, sweet gem confections, Ann Arbor

Pâtés de Fruits are a French jelly candy made from fruit purées. These little jewels of concentrated fruit are the perfect balance of fruity tartness and sweetness.

2⅓ ounces (67 grams) sugar½ ounce (13 grams) apple pectin18 ounces seeded blackberry purée (weigh after seeded)¾ cup apple juice1½ pounds pure cane sugar1½ teaspoons citric acid

1. Place silicone baking mat into a 7- by 11-inch pan; set aside.2. Whisk 2⅓ ounces sugar and pectin in a small bowl; set aside.3. combine blackberry purée, apple juice and pectin mixture in a 6-quart stockpot and bring to a full boil. 4. Add 1½ pounds sugar in several additions while maintaining a boil. insert candy thermometer and cook, stirring often, until mixture reaches 224°. take candy mixture off heat and thoroughly mix in citric acid. Pour into prepared pan. 5. cool completely and invert onto parchment paper. cut into 1-inch cubes (or desired shapes) and toss in sugar. store at room temperature, uncovered, for up to 2 days before packaging.

Yield: 50 pieces

Pumpkinsradishesraspberriesrutabagassummer squash (yellow, zucchini)sweet PotatoestomatoesturnipsWatermelonsWinter squash (butternut, acorn, spaghetti)

Late Fallbeetsbrussels sproutscabbagecarrotsceleriaccelerychestnutsParsnipPearsPotatoesPumpkinsrutabagasturnipsWinter squash (butternut, acorn, spaghetti)

Oregano PestoPam Aughe, r.d., Food editor, edibleWoW Magazine

oregano is a very hardy plant that can spread quickly throughout your garden. you can easily double or triple this pesto recipe for the large bounty of this herb.

2 cups packed oregano leaves3 cloves garlic, unpeeled¼ cup pine nuts, toasted¼ cup grated Parmesan cheese½ teaspoon coarse salt¼ teaspoon freshly ground black pepper½ cup extra-virgin olive oil, plus extra for drizzling

1. Preheat oven to 400°. Place garlic cloves in a small piece of aluminum foil, drizzle with oil, loosely close and bake for 20 minutes. cool slightly before squeezing garlic from skin.2. Fill a large saucepan with water and bring to a boil. Add oregano leaves and blanch 30 seconds. Place oregano leaves in ice water to cool, then pour into colander to drain; set aside.3. Add oregano, roasted garlic, pine nuts, cheese, salt and pepper to food processor; pulse until finely chopped, scrap-ing down the sides as needed. drizzle in ½ cup oil while processor is running until well combined.

Yield: 1 cup pesto

Cook’s Tip: blanching herb leaves will help the pesto main-tain a bright green color, even after freezing. Freeze pesto in ice cube trays then remove to a zip-top freezer-safe bag.

Basil Tomato TartWhole Foods Market, detroit, WholeFoodsMarket.com/

stores/detroit

tomatoes are at their peak in the early fall in southeast Michigan. savor a local tomato with this rich tart as a first course or as a meal accompanied by a green salad.

1 cup whole-wheat breadcrumbs1 cup whole-wheat flour½ cup (1 stick) cold butter, cut into cubes ½ teaspoon salt2 tablespoons cold water2 large tomatoes, sliced ¼ inch thick1 cup low-fat ricotta ½ cup shredded mozzarella cheese2 large eggs1 cup fresh basil leaves2¼ teaspoons freshly ground black pepper2 teaspoons olive oil

1. Preheat oven to 350°. 2. combine breadcrumbs, flour, butter and salt in a food processor until butter is well incorporated. drizzle in water with processor running until dough starts to come together. Press crumb mixture into a 9-inch springform pan. bake 10 to 12 minutes or until golden; set aside.3. Place tomato slices on a paper towel and sprinkle with salt. set aside to release juices while crust is baking. Pat dry with paper towel.4. combine ricotta, mozzarella, eggs, basil and pepper in a large bowl.5. Place half of tomatoes on top of prepared crust. top with cheese mixture then remaining tomatoes. drizzle with olive oil. bake for 45 minutes or until set in center and golden brown. serve warm.

Yield: 6 to 8 servings

Cook’s Tip: Make your own homemade breadcrumbs by placing chunks of whole-wheat bread in the food processor until reduced to the consistency of crumbs. extra crumbs store well in the freezer for up to 3 months.


in the kitchen

in the tiny kitchen of Ann Arbor’s ravens club, chef Frank Fejeran dices peaches fresh out of a cherry-wood smoker. The peaches

are headed for the pot, where they will be cooked down into a chutney with sugar, apple cider vinegar, diced onion and shaved garlic, served atop salt-and-sugar cured, deep-fried, oven-roasted pork shanks and accompanied with biscuit-topped blackberries and house-made rhubarb and asparagus pickles. Mouth watering yet? The ravens club opened on Main street in May 2011. The res-taurant had a rocky start, going through four chefs in two years. but with the addition of Fejeran—whose culinary resume includes stints at chicago’s hopleaf, Farmington’s tribute and Ann Arbor’s grange Kitchen and bar—ravens club has begun to hits its stride with a fresh, inspired menu combining everyday food with an experimental

By Nina Misuraca IgnaczakPhotos by Jacob Lewkow

Ravens ClubChef Frank Fejeran introduces a new concept in “fine dining”

flair and a fine-dining edge. The menu maintains some staple items while changing monthly to incorporate seasonality and creativity. “We need to keep consistency because we want people to come back, so we keep a couple items and change a little with the seasons,” says Fejeran. “We want to get guests to trust us again.” A major new element of ravens club repertoire is an emphasis on house-made items. “We make our own ketchup, we make three different kinds of mustards and we pickle everything,” says Fejeran, pointing proudly to pots of cucumber and red onion pickles swim-ming in their juices in the ravens club walk-in. “We make our own pie dough. That’s what i feel should be the goal of a chef: how much can you make yourself, and how well can you make it?” Fejeran’s penchant for pickling goes beyond vegetables. in June he purchased $600 worth of cherries to pickle for a charcuterie-inspired pickled cherry chocolate mousse loaf dessert. The pickled cherries are cooked down with sugar, cinnamon and red wine, combined with fresh cherries, formed in a terrine with chocolate mousse and sliced on a charcuterie board like an olive loaf.


it’s that playfulness that is beginning to set ravens club apart on the Ann Arbor restaurant scene, which Fejeran believes has suffered from some stagnation over the years. “We are redefining fine-dining,” he says. “no more white tablecloths, no more bruno-ise and chinois. it’s all about flavor, taking all parts of the animal and seeing what you can do, to do the minimum you can and still put your influence on it while letting that ingredient shine.” using all parts of the animal was the inspiration for Fejeran’s lamb tartar dish, served alongside spring pickles. Fejeran pur-chased a huge quantity of lamb from a local farmer for lamb meatballs and lamb chorizo tacos and was offered the second cuts for no cost. it’s that efficiency and cost-consciousness, says Fejeran, that can simultaneously fuel a chef ’s creativity and a restaurant’s profitability. A sense of playfulness and economy also drove Fejeran’s idea to offer a Monday evening brunch in lieu of a sunday morning affair. “We were sick of competing on sunday for brunch; an omelet is an omelet and there’s not much you can do to separate yourself,” Fejeran says. so instead, ravens club now offers brunch on Mon-day evenings. The unconventional menu affords Fejeran an oppor-tunity to experiment with lower-cost dishes, such as a spam fried rice inspired by his Pacific islander heritage. The Monday evening service is popular with restaurant workers who are off on Monday evenings, and drink sales are higher than at brunch, offsetting the lower food sales. one of Fejeran’s goals is to create a community of chefs and

“The goal of a chef: How much can you make yourself, and

how well can you make it?” — Chef Frank Fejeran

Clay Pot Carrots with Heirloom Polenta and Marcona Almonds


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The New York Sour

food workers in the city who aren’t afraid to collaborate and in-novate. by providing a place for food industry workers to gather and interact, he is working to build a community of chefs in Ann Arbor and greater detroit who are collaborating as much as competing. he sees his generation of chefs as poised to make a big splash in the national food scene, putting Michigan on the map. “We’re a new crew coming up who used to be grunts working for old-school chefs,” he says. “We are a tight-knit group; we are always texting each other about what we are doing. We’re not scared to share.” in May, ravens club celebrated its second anniversary with a “Pals & Punch” event to benefit a nearby school garden that brought several of Fejeran’s friends, mentors and colleagues from all over the region together in a spirit of convivial collaboration. The event featured don yamauchi from detroit’s Motor city casino, ben sheagran from chicago’s hopleaf, eric voigt from birmingham’s big rock, Maggie long from Ann Arbor’s Jolly Pumpkin, dave Kwiatkoski from detroit’s The sugar house, sandy levine from Ferndale’s The oakland, Mike Maroone from Ann Arbor’s Arbor brewing, among others. “We’re really trying to push the envelope and create a commu-nity,” says Fejeran. “it’s about more than just going shopping at the farmers’ market—we’re trying to build a culture with other chefs. We want to be the place the cooks go to eat.”

Ravens Club: 207 S. Main St., Ann Arbor, MI; 734-214-0400; TheRavensClub.com

Nina Misuraca Ignaczak lives and eats in Rochester, Michigan.

Pork Shank Confit with Smoked Peach Marmalade

Peach Pie for Two with Buttermilk Ice Cream


“i am probably the best-educated farmer you’ll run across,” says John harnois. he’s not bragging; it’s just that he’s on his third master’s

degree, none of them having anything to do with his five-acre poultry farm in Washtenaw county’s Webster township.

harnois and his 15-year-old son, nic, are partners in harnois Farms—raising chickens, turkeys, ducks, geese and pigs. The animals are raised without hormones or antibiotics and have room to roam. According to the farm’s cheeky advertising, they’re also home-schooled, listen to nPr and have their feathers fluffed regularly. “i’m a city kid from detroit,” John harnois says. While he was growing up, his family spent summers at a relative’s dairy farm in

farm to plate

Birds of a FeatherFather and son raise chickens in Webster

By Annette Kingsbury l Photos by Jacob Lewkow


Father and son make up the entire farm staff, doing everything from twice-daily chores to distribution of their products, selling at farmers’ markets, cleaning out the coops and trying to keep predators away. “it’s real cool to see eagles, but please don’t eat my chickens,” John harnois says. now working on a master’s degree in education, he’d like to find a job teaching special ed. “i hate school, but i have an insatiable thirst for knowledge,” he says. And he’s still making art. he acknowledges that a small farm really ties a person down. “i can’t leave. it’s hard to go on vacation,” he says. but at this point he can’t afford to hire staff. “The biggest thing for me is finding that balance. it’s hard to make a living because of the cost of feed.” in one year, it more than doubled. With customers already paying $6 a dozen for eggs, “i can’t double my price. i absorbed all that.” he would like to see the farm grow. “i need to figure out a long-range plan,” he says. he’s talked to Zingerman’s co-founder Ari Weinzweig about that. “What he said was, ‘you can’t just keep getting by; you’re going to wear out,’ and he’s right. but it’s hard when you’ve got four coops to clean.” Financial stability could come with a different business model. “i could make a lot more money if i went to a production hen for

laying eggs,” he says. “but for me, the quality is number one. i want people to have the best food i can give them. so i’m not financially successful. “i must like what i do. it’s hard, backbreaking work . . . but there’s a passion for it.”

Harnois Farms: 9260 Scully Rd., Whitmore Lake, 734-645-0300; HarnoisFarms.blogspot.com

Annette Kingsbury is a freelance writer and regular contributor to edibleWOW.

Michigan’s Thumb. “i think it had some effect.” A photographer with a master of fine arts degree from cranbrook, he spent the 1980s and ’90s photographing rock bands. twenty years ago, he moved to his present home in the country. “i wanted to know what i was eating,” he says. he decided to start with chickens—a smaller investment than, say, cows—which could provide eggs and meat for his own consumption. he read everything he could, talked to everyone he could. in 1994, he built his first coop and bought 25 chickens, white Jersey giants and buff orpingtons. “When i had extra eggs i would sell them to people. And what i heard was they were the best they ever had. Then i started doing more and more,” he explains. The farm has since grown to a collection of four coops and two Quonset huts—some homemade, some imported from off the farm. in addition to a couple thousand birds, nic has introduced a few tamworth pigs. harnois Farms eggs have developed a cult following. “if i can get people to try my eggs, they don’t go back,” John harnois says. As for the meat, “i have what i believe to be the equivalent of Kobe chicken. People tell me on a regular basis it’s the best meat they’ve had.”

The only complaint he’s ever had, he says, was from someone who said a bird was too moist and flavorful. “i was distraught,” he says. “some people just don’t know what a bird is supposed to be.” he says it’s a mystery to him why everything tastes so good, so he’s stuck to what works, buying the same feed mix from local processors from the beginning. harnois Farms can sell everything it produces, including pullet and duck eggs and 200–300 turkeys per year in broad-breasted and smaller heritage varieties. The products can be found at the Kerrytown Market, at a weekly farmers’ market outside Zingerman’s roadhouse, at Plum Market in Ann Arbor, at six hiller’s markets, at Arbor Farms and at the Ann Arbor Food co-op. restaurants are also interested; Zingerman’s has bought turkeys for potpies and has already committed to this year’s crop of pigs, which regularly feed on whey from Zingerman’s cheese-making operation. nic harnois began helping out on the farm “as soon as i could walk,” he says. A 4-h member and a junior at dexter high school, his aptitude for mechanics makes him indispensable around the farm. still, he doesn’t plan to stay in the family business but will probably always raise “a few something. i’m more into goats and pigs,” nic says.

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Nic Harnois Hens: Rhode Island Reds & New Hampshire’s Roosters: Americana’s & Aricana’s


Easy Miso Soup

chef george vutetakis, director of r&d garden Fresh gourmet, Ferndale

Adapted from: Vegetarian Traditions

Miso soup is a simple and quick soup to make with many properties that contribute to good health. All the vegetables are widely available in the fall at Michigan farmers’ markets.

Dashi (stock)6 cups water½ cup dried shiitake mushrooms, broken into small pieces2-inch piece kombu, broken into small pieces2-inch piece fresh ginger root, peeled and julienned1 (14- to 16-ounce) package medium-firm tofu, cut into ½-inch cubesVegetables½ cup peeled and thinly sliced butternut squash½ cup peeled and julienned celeriac1 cup thinly sliced leeks½ cup peeled and thinly sliced carrots½ cup thinly sliced daikon radish½ cup thinly sliced celery¼ cup chopped scallions1 cup thinly sliced baby bok choy2 cups thinly sliced kale leavesMiso⅓ cup mugi or red miso3 tablespoons tamari1 teaspoon ume plum vinegar¼ teaspoon toasted sesame oil1 tablespoon mirin

1. Place all dashi ingredients, except tofu, in a 6-quart stockpot over medium heat for a low simmer. cook for 20 minutes, add tofu and continue a low simmer for an additional 10 minutes.2. Add all vegetable ingredients to prepared stock and simmer an additional 5 minutes. 3. take 1 cup of hot stock and dissolve mugi or red miso. Place dissolved miso into stockpot with the remaining ingredients. serve immediately.

Yield: 8 servings

Cook’s Tip: Many products used to make miso soup are available from eden Foods, such as kombu (dry kelp used as a flavor enhancer), mugi or red miso, tamari and ume plum vinegar.

Bay Leaf and Balsamic Roasted Vegetables

chef and owner Katie berschback, green Zebra truck, Metro detroit Area

serving soups, salads and sandwiches, the green Zebra food truck is known for fresh hand-crafted street food. This roasted vegetable recipe creatively uses what is seasonal and local.

6 whole fresh bay leaves1 (2- to 3-pound) butternut squash, peeled, seeded and medium diced1 pint brussels sprouts, trimmed and halved3 large carrots, peeled and medium diced1 large red onion, medium diced2 large granny smith apples, peeled, cored and medium diced2 large parsnips, peeled and medium diced1 (1-pound) celeriac, trimmed of greens, peeled and medium diced3 tablespoons balsamic vinegar3 tablespoons olive oil1 teaspoon coarse salt½ teaspoon freshly ground black pepper

1. Preheat oven to 400°. coat 2 large rimmed baking sheets with cooking spray; set aside.2. Place all ingredients in a large bowl and toss gently to combine. divide vegetables evenly between prepared baking sheets. roast vegetables for about 35 minutes, stirring halfway through, or until tender and slightly brown around edges. remove bay leaves and serve.

Yield: 10 servings

Cook’s Tip: chef recommends also roasting fennel bulbs with the other vegetables when available and serving with a smoked paprika and fennel rubbed pork (see website for recipe.)

in the spotlight

Discoverceleriac is the mysterious brown, knobby object among the root vegetables. The ugly exterior—looking more like a flower bulb than something you might actually eat—causes it to be overlooked by even the most curious. Also known as “celery root,” “turnip-rooted celery” and “knob celery,” celeriac is cousin to celery but not the actual root of the more common celery plant. celeriac season begins in the late fall and continues all winter long.

Tasteceleriac is a subtle blend of celery and parsley flavors that is actually quite sweet. The flesh is solid and fibrous, similar to a turnip or potato. The all-time classic way to serve celeriac is celeriac remou-lade, which is similar to American coleslaw. celeriac is also delicious puréed, roasted and as a potato substitute in soups. cook with small to medium roots for the best flavor and texture.

Celeriac

Celeriac Anna

Pam Aughe, r.d., Food editor, edibleWoW Magazine

Pommes Anna is a classic French dish made of sliced, layered potatoes cooked in a large amount of butter. Popularized by Julia child in the 1960s, this version of Pommes Anna uses celeriac in place of potatoes.

1 (2 pound) celeriac, trimmed of greens, peeled and very thinly sliced3 tablespoons olive oilKosher salt

1. Preheat oven to 425°.2. brush an 8- to 10-inch cast-iron skillet with olive oil. Arrange ⅓ of celeriac slices in a single-layer circular pattern slightly overlapping in prepared skillet. brush layer with some of the olive oil and sprinkle generously with salt and pepper. repeat 2 more times. drizzle any remaining oil over the top.3. Place skillet over medium-high heat for 2 to 4 minutes or until the oil begins to sizzle; turn off heat and cover with aluminum foil. Place skillet in preheated oven and bake for 50 minutes, removing foil halfway through. 4. remove from oven and let rest 5 minutes. loosen with a spatula, then invert onto a serving platter. top with fresh thyme and serve hot.

Yield: 4 servings

Fortifyceleriac is technically a corm—a solid, bulb-like base of a plant stem that stores food. This nutrient-storing root is high in potassium, fiber, and vitamin c, all part of a bone-healthy diet. low in calories and carbohydrates compared to other root vegetables, celeriac is only 5% to 6% starch by weight, making celeriac a great potato substitute in lower-calorie recipes.

Preservechoose small and firm celeriac roots that are heavy for their size. All roots will have a bumpy and rough-looking exterior and many from the farmers’ market will have the fresh greenery on top. Whole roots can be stored in the refrigerator for two to four weeks. They also have a great capacity for long-term storage. scrub the root well under cold water before peeling and slicing. because of its rough exterior, cutting the outside skin with a paring knife is preferred instead of a peeler. once the inside flesh is exposed, quickly toss it in water with lemon juice to prevent browning. — Pam Aughe, r.d

Freshly ground black pepper1 teaspoon fresh thyme leaves


Hi, John & Nic here! We are pleasant poultry product purveyors. We purvey to various restaurants and through stores in the area as well as directly to those who appreciate good healthy food. We try to do all the right things and eliminate the wrong ones. Currently we have turkeys for the holidays as well as chicken and duck. We raise exceptional, healthy food for the health conscious consumer. And don’t we all consume food? Thanks for stopping by, and till next time, happy trails to you, John & Nic

feathers fluffed regularly

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edible WOW Diner's GuideListing in this directory is by invitation only. Restaurants are selected for this guide because of their emphasis on using local, seasonal ingredients and sustainable foods in their menus.

Ann ArborJolly Pumpkin Café and Brewery 311 s Main st, 734-913-2730; jollypumpkin.comJolly Pumpkin café and brewery is committed to sourcing from and supporting the local agricultural community and small sustainable artisan producers. our seasonally changing menu features beer friendly foods. All of our beers are created in-house, locally made and estate brewed. our wines and spirits are produced in small batches.

The Ravens Club207 s Main st, 734-214-0400; theravensclub.comAt The ravens club we focus our culinary program on heirloom cooking styles and techniques. We like to define heirloom cooking as food that is sustainably sourced, full-flavored, made with seasonal ingredients and prepared using both modern and time-honored techniques. The result is a thoughtful menu that highlights the uniqueness of each ingredient and their role in our agricultural heritage.

Zingerman’s Delicatessen422 detroit st, 734-663-3354; zingermansdeli.comZingerman’s delicatessen, hailed by Mario batali as “the center of [his] gastro-deli universe,” serves up thousands of made-to-order sandwiches with ingredients like Zingerman’s corned beef and pastrami, free range chicken and turkey, housemade chopped liver and chicken salad. The deli also stocks an exceptional array of farmhouse cheeses, estate-bottled olive oils, varietal vinegars, smoked fish, salami, coffee, tea and much, much more.

Zingerman’s Roadhouse2501 Jackson rd, 734-663-3663zingermansroadhouse.comZingerman’s roadhouse is dedicated to serving guests full-flavored, traditional, regional American foods in a down-to-earth restaurant atmosphere. James beard-award winning chef Alex young and the rest of the crew serve a menu and weekly specials with a passion for really good American food, whenever possible using seasonal, heirloom produce from cornman Farms—our very own farm, supplying our restaurant’s tables with hours-old vegetables.

BirminghamCommonwealth 300 hamilton row, 248-792-9766; gocommonwealth.comAt commonwealth our goal is to serve local, organic and seasonal food and coffee when possible. We’re always trying to keep it simple and fresh. We roast our own coffee in house in 4-pound batches and make most of our food and drink from scratch using quality ingredients.

Forest Grill735 Forest Ave, 248.258.9400; theforestgrill.comThe Forest grill, which has been named restaurant of the year by Hour Detroit Magazine for 2009 and 2010, is an intimate neighborhood restaurant located in birmingham featuring quality, approachable food. chef brian Polcyn and chef nick Janutol work together in creating menus that change with the seasons, always keeping in mind the freshest local ingredients available to them.

Peabody’s34965 Woodward Ave, 248-644-5222Peabodysrestaurant.com rustic upscale American cuisine can be found at this birmingham landmark restaurant. From 1946-1975, the Peabody family owned and operated a produce and meat market in this location before opening their restaurant. now, almost 38 years later, you can find Michigan-made ravioli, great lakes fresh perch and daily specials featuring local creations from a third generation Peabody: executive chef Kelsy Peabody.

Bloomfield HillsNorthern Lakes Seafood Company39495 Woodward Ave, 248-646-7900theepicureangroup.comexecutive chef Frank turner and his culinary team use locally-sourced produce combined with the freshest seafood from ports all over the world to create a unique and outstanding meal. to-gether with our award-winning wine list, a visit to northern lakes will be a wonderful experience. open for lunch and dinner.

DearbornEagle Tavern in Greenfield Village 20900 oakwood blvd, 313-982-6067thehenryford.org/village/eaglemenu.aspxbuilt in clinton, Michigan, in 1831 as a stagecoach stop for weary trav-elers, eagle tavern still exudes the warmth and camaraderie of the era today. stop by for an unforgettable, authentic sit-down meal presented on a living stage by costumed servers who bring the 19th century to life. our menu uses the freshest local ingredients available in the area and changes every spring, summer and fall.

Detroit1515 Broadway Café1515 broadway, 313-965-1515one of the most captivating spots in the city of detroit, located in the historical theatre district, 1515 broadway offers an array of freshly made soups, sandwiches and salads—all with a regional touch. every effort is made to source all products from local farmers and producers. buy local. support local.

Rattlesnake Club300 river Place dr, 313-567-4400rattlesnakedetroit.comlocally grown for 25 years. celebrate 25 years of innovative cuisine and exceptional service on the detroit river. enjoy lunch or dinner in our modern dining rooms or terrace chef ’s garden, each offering sweeping riverfront views. executive chef chris Franz features local, seasonal foods including prime beef and sustainable seafood.

Slows Bar-B-Q2132 Michigan Ave, 313-962-9828; slowsbarbq.comThe restaurant slow-cooks beef brisket and pork butt and tops its sandwiches with surprising extras like onion marmalade, smoked gouda, and Applewood bacon. The eatery, set in a once-dilapidated 1880s building rehabbed in 2005 with brick walls, swanky booths, and an open, three-sided bar, has helped revitalize the corktown neighbor-hood.

Slows To Go4107 cass Ave, 87-sloWs2go; slowstogow.comslows to go is a 6,000 square foot commercial kitchen with 7x the smoker capacity of the original building. First and foremost, slows to go is a commissary kitchen. We are able to prepare the same food, with the same high qual-ity ingredients much more efficiently and without cutting any corners. slows to go prepares much of the food eaten at slows bar bq. slows to go is also a carryout location.

FarmingtonJohn Cowley and Sons Restaurant and Irish Pub33338 grand river Ave, 248-474-5941Johncowleys.comculinary institute of America trained husband and wife team, chefs brendan and Amy cowley present creative, delicious gastro-pub fare, focusing on season-ality, high-quality ingredients and from scratch cooking. unique beer and wine selections & banquet space available in a beautiful two story irish inspired restaurant and pub. try our sunday irish brunch.

Farmington HillsCafé Cortina30715 W 10 Mile rd, 248-474-3033, cafecortina.comlocated in an italian countryside vineyard setting in Farmington hills, Michigan. in its nearly four decade long history, café cortina has con-sistently strived to be more than just a restaurant. Founded on the site of a former apple orchard in 1976 by the tonon family, café cortina started out as a “best kept secret” restaurant that has turned into a foodie destination.

FerndaleTorino201 east nine Mile rd, 248-247-1370torinoferndale.comWe strive to provide a unique dining experi-ence by offering a 5 course tasting menu that will change weekly to reflect seasonal and local products. to complete the experience, we offer optional drink pairings that are carefully se-lected by our mixologist. our dedicated culinary team takes great pride in providing a fine dining experience in a relaxed atmosphere. We are open tues- Thurs 4pm-11pm and Fri-sat 4pm-12am.

Livonia & Southfield Sweet Lorraine’s Café and Bar29101 greenfield rd, southfield; 248-559-5985 and in the livonia Marriot hotel; 17100 n laurel Park dr, livonia; 734-953-7480; sweetlorraines.comchef lorraine Platman’s “World beat cuisine” encompasses daily specials, including homemade soups, pastas, seafood and vegetarian entrees as well as fresh-baked desserts and creative cocktails—inspired by exciting ethnic cuisines—using many local, natural and organic ingredients.

NoviToasted Oak27790 novi rd, 248-277-6000; toastedoak.comtoasted oak grill & Market serves delicious American brasserie cuisine with an emphasis on all things local. Featuring a fresh market and wine shop that spills into an inviting and cozy dining room, toasted oak grill & Market is a novi restaurant that celebrates Michigan food and wine.

Oak ParkSahara Restaurant & Grill24770 coolidge hwy, 248-399-7744, newsahara.comsahara restaurant & grill, opening its first location in Ferndale in 1981, is known for its delicious, fresh, tantalizing recipes of fine Mediter-ranean cuisine. sahara has stayed true to using only fresh produce and meat purchased from local farmers. Along with our award-winning fresh lentil soup, sahara creates house specialties from stuffed grape leaves to lamb dinners. voted best in detroit.

Royal OakCacao Tree Cafe204 W 4th st, 248-336-9043; cacaotreecafe.comAn almost completely organic menu featuring a variety of ethnic cuisine prepared daily. We specialize in raw vegan food, while offering cooked soups and whole grain salads. We focus on sustainability and locally produced food. We support Maple creek Farms, tantre Farm, Martin family Farm, cinzori Farm, grown in detroit Farms and earth Works. gluten & soy Free menu.

Inn Season Café500 e Fourth st, 248-547-7916; theinnseasoncafe.comThe inn season café is dedicated to skillfully preparing dishes using the freshest organic, seasonal and locally grown ingredients. in presenting the best of classic and inventive world cuisine since 1981, we believe good food is intrinsically healthy and meant to be hearty and satisfying. While serving the vegetarian and vegan community, our hope is that everyone will enjoy our world-class flavors.

West BloomfieldThe Lark Restaurant6430 Farmington road, 248-661-4466; thelark.comThe lark is open for dinner only tuesday through saturday 6 pm to 9 pm. The overall theme is a european country inn, with a walled garden for outdoor tables and a place to grow herbs, vegetables and fruit. cuisine is eclectic and distinctive with French cooking tech-niques. chef de cuisine John somerville can be seen regularly at local farmers markets buying fruits and vegetables for the evening meal.

Loya Organic4284 orchard lake rd, 248-681-9640, loyaorganic.comloya organic is your neighborhood Mediterranean café and grill. From the tip of Africa to the foothills of the himalayan Mountains, our eclectic cuisine sizzles with diverse entrees and tantalizing flavors. organic grass-fed meats, local produce and eco-friendly cutlery embody our vision for sustainability and make for an authentic and rich dining experience.

White LakeThe Root Restaurant & Bar340 town center blvd, 248-698-2400; therootrestaurant.com2012 detroit Free Press restaurant of the year. chef James rigato’s menu showcases Michigan through local sourcing, classic technique and modern thinking. look for house made charcuterie, daily creative specials, hand made cocktails microbrews and a well balanced wine list. The root hosts many themed wine and beer dinners as well as hands-on cooking classes and full service catering. support the move-ment. dig The root.


LOCAL MARKETPLACE Support your neigborhood businessLOCAL MARKETPLACE Support your neigborhood business

422 Detroit St. • Ann Arbor, MI 48104 • Open daily 7am-10pm 734.663.DELI (3354) • www.zingermansdeli.com

Oct 10 • 7pm • Zingerman’s Events on Fourth $50/person, $60/with beer • Sells out fast! Call 734.663.3400 to reserve

We invite local food lovers to help us complete the farm-to-table circle and enjoy the best food of the season with our friends from Tantré Farm. For more information, check us out at www.zingermansdeli.com.

10th annual!

artisan coffee roaster & brew barElevado

Espresso

606 S. Main St., Plymouth, MI 48170734-904-8323 / www.espressoelevado.com

Facebook & Twitter: /EspressoElevado

Innovative, hand-crafted coffee roasted on-site & brewed to order

*specializing in fair-trade & organically grown beans


ADVERTISERS' DIRECTORY Support your neigborhood business

Dear Readers, The invaluable support of these trusted businesses helps to sustain and grow edibleWoW. Please make a point of supporting them and when you do, tell them you saw their ad in edibleWoW.

ADVERTISERS' DIRECTORY Support your neigborhood business

ANN ARBORArbor Brewing Company114 E Washington734-213-1393arborbrewing.com

Jolly Pumpkin Café & Brewery311 S Main St734-913-2730jollypumpkin.com

Legacy Land Conservancy1100 N Main St #203734-302-5263legacylandconservancy.org

Mighty Good Coffee217 N Main St734-222-4514mightygoodcoffee.com

Orion Automotive Services3340 W Liberty Rd734-995-3188oriona2.com

People’s Food Co Op216 N Fourth Ave734-994-9174peoplesfood.coop

Sweet Gem Confection1928 Packard Rd734-929-6513annarborchocolate.com

The Brinery2531 Jackson AveSuite 157734-717-4469thebrinery.com

The Ravens Club207 S Main St734-214-0400theravensclub.com

Whole Foods3135 Washtenaw Ave734-975-4500and 990 W Eisenhower 734-997-7500wholefoodsmarket.com

Zingerman’s Delicatessen422 Detroit St734-663-3354zingermansdeli.com

Zingerman’s Creamery3723 Plaza Dr734-929-0500zingermanscreamery.com

Zingerman’s Roadhouse2501 Jackson Ave734-663-3663zingermansroadhouse.com

BERKLEYAmici’s Pizza & Living Room3249 Twelve Mile Rd248-544-4100

BIRMINGHAMAmici’s Gourmet Pizza To - Go1160 Grant St248-723-2900

Commonwealth300 Hamilton Row248-792-9766gocommonwealth.com

Forest Grill735 Forest Ave 248-258-9400theforestgrill.com

Great Harvest Bread Co1137 S Adams Rd 248-594-0505birminghamgreatharvest.com

Mills Pharmacy Apothecary1744 W Maple Rd248-644-5060millspharmacy.com

Peabody’s34965 Woodward Ave248-644-5222 peabodysrestaurant.com

BLOOMFIELD HILLSNorthern Lakes Seafood Company39495 Woodward Ave 248-646-7900 theepicureangroup.com

CARLETONCalder Farm9334 Finzel Rd734-654-2622calderdairy.com

CLARKSTONEssence On Main4 S Main St248-942-4949essenceonmain.com

Neiman’s Family MarketOpening Spring 2013Dixie Highway & White Lake Rdneimansfamilymarket.com

Nuview Nutrition6803 Dixie Hwy Suite 2248-766-2210

CLINTONEden foods701 Tecumseh Rd517-456-7424edenfoods.com

DEARBORNThe Henry Ford20900 Oakwood Blvd313-271-1620thehenryford.org

DETROIT1515 Broadway Café1515 Broadway313-965-1515

Corridor SausageEastern Market1801 Division Stcorridorsausage.com

Rattlesnake Club300 River Place Dr313-567-4400rattlesnakeclub.com

Slows BAR B Q2138 Michigan Ave313-962-9828slowsbarbq.com

Slows To Go4107 Cass Ave877-569-7246slowstogo.com

The Detroit Three313-418-1873thedetroit3.com

Whole Foods115 Mack Ave313-258-4552wholefoodsmarket.com

FARMINGTONFarmington Farmers & Artisans MarketWalter E Sundquist Pavilion, Grand River Avenue at Grove Stdowntownfarmington.org

John Cowley & Sons Restaurant and Irish Pub33338 Grand River Ave.248-474-5941johncowleys.com

FARMINGTON HILLSCafé Cortina30715 W 10 Mile Rd248-474-3033cafecortina.com

FERNDALE Torino201 E 9 Mile Rd248-247-1370torinoferndale.com

HENDERSONThomas Organic Creamery5005 W Allan Rd989-661-2354Thomasorganiccreamery.com

JACKSONSandhill Crane Vineyards4724 Walz Rd517-764-0679sandhillcranevineyards.com

LINCOLN PARKCalder Dairy1020 Southfield Rd313-381-8858

LIVONIASweet Lorraine’s Restaurant17100 N Laural Park Dr734-953-7480sweetlorraines.com

MANCHESTEROld Pine [email protected]

NORTHVILLEGuernsey Farms Dairy21300 Novi Rd 48167248-349-1468guernseyfarmsdairy.com

NOVIToasted Oak27790 Novi Rd248-277-6000toastedoak.com

OAK PARKSahara Restaurant24770 Coolidge Hwy248-399-7744newsahara.com

ORTONVILLERegiani Dental101 South St 248-627-4934 regianidental.com

PLYMOUTHCoffee Express Company47722 Clipper St800-466-9000coffeeexpressco.com

Espresso Elevado606 S Main St734-904-8323espressoelevado.com

PONTIACLafayette Market154 N Saginaw248-392-2100thelafayettemarket.com

ROCHESTER HILLSWhole Foods2918 Walton Blvd248-371-1400wholefoodsmarket.com

ROYAL OAKCacao Tree Café204 West 4th St248-336-9043cacaotreecafe.com

Inn Season Cafe’500 East Fourth St248-547-7916theinnseasoncafe.com

Pure Food 2 U4303 Delemere Court248-549-5242purefood2u.com

Royal Oak Farmers’ Market316 E 11 Mile Rd248-246-3276ci.royal-oak.mi.us

SNOVEREast River Organic Farm440 N Wheeler Rd810-672-9430eastriverorganic.com

SOUTHFIELDSweet Lorraine’s Restaurant29101 Greenfield Rd248-559-5985sweetlorraines.com

TRENTONChartreuse2837 W Jefferson734-671-3006 & 866-315-7832chartreuseltd.com

TROYNuview Nutrition1147 E Long Lake Rd,248-766-2210

Whole Foods2880 W Maple Rd248-649-9600wholefoodsmarket.com

1928 Packard Road Ann Arbor MI 48104734.929.6513 annarborchocolate.com

Joy Through Chocolate.

SGC_WOWAd_2013.indd 1 5/28/13 2:10 PM

WARRENButcher Boy 13869 Herbert586-779-0600butcherboyfoodproducts.com

WATERFORDDorsey Schools390 N Telegraph Rd248-333-1814dorsey.edu

WEST BLOOMFIELDJacob Lewkow248-330-4983jacoblewkow.com

Loya Organic Restaurant4284 Orchard Lake Rd248-681-9640loyaorganic.net

[email protected]

The Lark6430 Farmington Rd 248-661-4466thelark.com

Whole Foods7350 Orchard Lake Rd248-538-4600wholefoodsmarket.com

WHITE LAKEThe Root Restaurant & Bar340 Town Center Blvd 248-698-2400 therootrestaurant.com

WHITMORE LAKEHarnois Farm9260 Scully Rd734-449-7172

YPSILANTIYpsilanti Food Co-Op312 North River St734-483-1520ypsifoodcoop.org


Find us on facebookOfficial site Calder Dairy and Farm

www.calderdairy.com

Visit Calder Dairy and Farm!We have two locations with two different experiences, visit them both!

Thanks for supporting your local cows.

Farm open to the public daily, 10am to 8pm9334 Finzel RoadCarleton, MI 48117734-654-2622

Dairy open daily, 7am to 9pmIce Cream Parlor open daily, Noon to 9pm 1020 Southfield Road Lincoln Park, MI 48146313-381-8858

Visit the Farm Feed the calves at 3pm and watch the cows being milked at 4pm. Enjoy farm made ice cream made right here! Sit next to our waterfall as you eat your ice cream! Visit our country store for ice cream, milk and much more! Organized tours by appointment for 15 or more, call 734-654-2622. Never an entry or parking fee. Visit all the farm 'critters' goats, sheep, horses, peacocks and more! Peek into the chicken house and see freshly laid eggs.

Visit the Dairy Call for old fashioned home delivery 313-381-8858. Purchase milk, ice cream, baked goods and much more. Our milk has always been rBST free. Still bottling milk from our own cows in glass bottles! Our milk is vat pasteurized in small 300 gallon batches. Family owned and run since 1946. We were a local family run business with a sustainable product before it was cool to be local!

Call for old fashioned home delivery 313-381-8858

Visit the cows who make your milk.

Buy Local!Fridays & Saturdays 7:00 AM - 1:00 PM (Open Saturdays all year round)

www.ci.royal-oak.mi.us/farmersmkt l 248-246-3276

Featuring an abundance of locally grown produce and plants picked within 24 hours!

In addition, there are several antibiotic & hormone free meats and cheeses, free range eggs & chicken, vegan and gluten free baked goods, fresh made salsa, pasta & sauces and many other specialty food vendors. Know your farmer, know your food.

Do you know where your food comes from...

...WE DO!

Erie Orchards - Fresh Peaches, Blueberries, Plums & More picked daily!1235 Erie Rd. Erie, MI 734-735-1286

VanHoutte Farms“Home of the Big Pumpkins”69475 Romeo Plank Rd.Armada, MI

Le Cocoa Bee HoneyLocally Made Honey, Healing Honey Products, Beeswax Candles & More248-891-1530

wholefoodsmarket.com

Now is the time to enjoy the best fruits and vegetables of Michigan! Choosing local puts you in touch with the flavors and varieties of each season. Produce remaining on the vine or branch longer leads to a fresher, more flavorful product that doesn’t have to take a lengthy road trip to reach you. This also means lower transportation costs and less impact on the environment.

Buying local also leads to more money in your local grower’s pocket and within your local economy, supporting sustainable family farms that might not otherwise be able to operate.

We’re honored to support our local farmers and offer their high-quality products at Whole Foods Market.

Ann Arbor 3135 Washtenaw Ave. (734) 975-4500Ann Arbor–Cranbrook 990 W Eisenhower Pkwy (734) 997-7500Detroit 115 Mack Ave. (313) 258-4552Rochester Hills 2918 Walton Blvd. (248) 371-1400Troy 2880 West Maple Rd. (248) 649-9600West Bloomfield 7350 Orchard Lake Rd. (248) 538-4600

Beland FarmsDundee, Michigan

Owner: Richard Beland

ediblewow fall 2013 no.24

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