elements of textile design - cbse · 2017. 7. 27. · raj printers, a-9, sector b-2, tronica city,...

CENTRAL BOARD OF SECONDARY EDUCATION

in collaboration with

NATIONAL INSTITUTE OF FASHION TECHNOLOGY

Elements of

Textile DesignText Book

Class XI

Elements of TEXTILE DESIGN

Textile Science Text Book Class XI

Price: `

First Edition 2013, CBSE, India

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THE CONSTITUTION OF INDIA

PREAMBLE

1WE, THE PEOPLE OF INDIA, having solemnly resolved to constitute India into a [SOVEREIGN

SOCIALIST SECULAR DEMOCRATIC REPUBLIC] and to secure to all its citizens :

JUSTICE, social, economic and political;

LIBERTY of thought, expression, belief, faith and worship;

EQUALITY of status and of opportunity; and to promote among them all 2FRATERNITY assuring the dignity of the individual and the [unity and integrity of the Nation];

IN OUR CONSTITUENT ASSEMBLY this twenty-sixth day of November, 1949, do HEREBY ADOPT,

ENACT AND GIVE TO OURSELVES THIS CONSTITUTION.

THE CONSTITUTION OF INDIA

Chapter IV A

FUNDAMENTAL DUTIES

ARTICLE 51A

Fundamental Duties - It shall be the duty of every citizen of India-

(a) to abide by the Constitution and respect its ideals and institutions, the National Flag and the National Anthem;

(b) to cherish and follow the noble ideals which inspired our national struggle for freedom;

(c) to uphold and protect the sovereignty, unity and integrity of India;

(d) to defend the country and render national service when called upon to do so;

(e) to promote harmony and the spirit of common brotherhood amongst all the people of India transcending religious, linguistic and regional or sectional diversities; to renounce practices derogatory to the dignity of women;

(f) to value and preserve the rich heritage of our composite culture;

(g) to protect and improve the natural environment including forests, lakes, rivers, wild life and to have compassion for living creatures;

(h) to develop the scientific temper, humanism and the spirit of inquiry and reform;

(i) to safeguard public property and to abjure violence;

(j) to strive towards excellence in all spheres of individual and collective activity so that the nation constantly rises to higher levels of endeavour and achievement;

1(k) who is a parent or guardian to provide opportunities for education to his/her child or, as the case may be, ward between age of six and forteen years.

1. Subs, by the Constitution (Forty-Second Amendment) Act. 1976, sec. 2, for "Sovereign Democratic Republic” (w.e.f. 3.1.1977)

2. Subs, by the Constitution (Forty-Second Amendment) Act. 1976, sec. 2, for "unity of the Nation” (w.e.f. 3.1.1977)

1. Ins. by the constitution (Eighty - Sixth Amendment) Act, 2002 S.4 (w.e.f. 12.12.2002)


Elements of Textile Design(CBSE Textbook for Class XI)

Textile design involves a complete vision of development of new design aspects for novelty in fabric

surface, textile products and various other textile materials. It includes designing of fabric used in

clothing, house hold textiles, decorative textiles and others. It involves design intervention along

with the development of the final product within the technical specification and right commercial

value.

In order to create innovative surfaces and structures, "Elements of design" course is introduced as

an elementary course. The course will provide an overview of Textile Design, Designer and Textile

Industry. The overall objective of this course is to understand the basics of design in relation with

textiles, textile design and related terminology and the overall work pattern of textile industry.

Mr. Vineet Joshi, IAS, Chairman, CBSE

Dr. Biswajit Saha (Associate Professor and Programme Officer), Vocational Cell

Ms. Swati Gupta (Assistant Professor and Assistant Programme Officer), Vocational Cell

Mr. Prem Kumar Gera, IAS

Sr. Prof Banhi Jha, Dean (A)

Prof. Kripal Mathur, Registrar

Ms. Savita Sheoran Rana, Chairperson, Textile Design Department

Prof. Anupam Jain, Professor at Textile Design Department, NIFT Hyderabad

Ms. Kislaya Choudhary, Assistant Professor, Textile Design Department, NIFT Bhopal

CBSE

NIFT

Anchor

Contributors

Preamble


The Indian Textiles Industry has an overwhelming presence in the economic life of the country

and is one of the leading textile industries in the world. India earns about 27% of its total foreign

exchange through textile exports. Further, the textile industry of India also contributes nearly 14%

of the total industrial production of the country. It also contributes around 3% to the GDP of the

country. India textile industry is also the second largest provider of employment in the country in

terms of after agriculture.

As per the 12th Five year plan, the integrated skill development scheme aims to train over 2,675,000

people within the next 5 years. This scheme would cover all sub sectors of the textile sector such as

textiles and Apparel, handicraft, handlooms, jute and sericulture.

In order to match the increasing requirement of skilled personnel, CBSE has initiated to introduce

"Textile Design" as a vocational course for Class XI and XII. The course aims to introduce students

to Elements of Design, Fabric science, Woven textiles, Dyeing & Printing procedures and

introduction to our traditional textiles. This will help students to join the industry after Class XII or

they can pursue higher education in this field.

The Faculty of the National Institute of Fashion Technology has developed the curriculum and the

learning Material. I place on record the Board's thankful acknowledgement of the services rendered

by Shri P.K. Gera, Director General, NIFT, Sr. Prof Banhi Jha, Dean- Academics, Project In-charge

and Ms. Savita Sheoran Rana, Chairperson, Textile Design Department, Project Anchor - Textile

Design. The course is developed and prepared by faculty members from Textile Design Department

across NIFT centers. CBSE also acknowledges the contribution by Prof. Anupam Jain, Hyderabad,

Ms. Kislay Choudhary, Assistant Prof. Bhopal; Ms. Shubhangi Yadav, Associate Prof, Gandhinagar,

Mohammad Javed, Associate Prof., Mumbai; Shri. Arnab Sen, Assistant Prof, Bhopal, Mr. Debojyoti

Ganguly, Assistant Prof., Bhopal and Shri. Shivalingam.

I would like to appreciate Dr. Biswajit Saha, Associate Professor and Programme Officer, Vocational

Education Cell, CBSE and Ms. Swati Gupta, Assistant Professor and Assistant Programme Officer,

Vocational Education Cell, CBSE and other members of Vocational Education Cell, CBSE is also

deeply appreciated.

Comments and suggestions for further improving the curriculum are always welcome

Vineet Joshi

Chairman, CBSE

Foreward


UNIT – I

Objectives:

Learning Outcome:

Course Content:

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To understand the historical background of textiles.

To get an overview of the textile industry and related industries.

To get familiar with various textile materials and processes.

To gain knowledge about textile design as a field.

To understand the textile design as a profession and the role of Textile designers in Textile and

Fashion Industry.

To understand the work structure, timing and planning in Textile industry.

To develop knowledge of forecast and market trends, its importance and need in Textile

industry.

After finishing the course students shall be able

To understand the overview of Textile industry including history and current industry

scenario.

To learn about the terminology associated with textile design material, process etc.

To understand the importance of market and trends and enhance observational skills.

To understand the Textile industry functional aspects and roles and responsibilities of a

designer.

1. An Overview of Textiles, history and industrial background

2. Textile designer role responsibilities

3. Textile material and process

4. Textile industry work structure, time and planning

5. Importance of market trend and forecast

Teaching Methodology:

Class lectures and Practical demonstrations


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Class-room quiz

Presentations and Discussions in class

Review and Feedback on assignments

Market visit, Survey and Field visits to relevant Textile Manufacturing unit, museums etc.

Written theory test: knowledge and understanding.

Discussion and quiz: understanding.

The main objective of this unit is to develop an understanding of the primary components of textile

design, and the related process. The basic of textile design knowledge is essential and useful for

further application in various sectors of textile design.

To develop an understanding for the components of textile design, and the related process.

To introduce the students to the basic principle and elements of design

To develop interesting compositions using forms and colour.

To develop sensitivity among the students for better understanding of forms and its

application for creating visual images of great value.


To understand the application of design elements and principles for textile designing.

To get familiar with the design process and to make design ideas using innovative material and

techniques.

To enable students to work on various design compositions.

1. Elements of design

2. Principles of design

Evaluation Criteria:

UNIT II

Objectives:

Learning Outcome:

Course Content:

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UNIT III

Objectives:

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Class lectures and practical demonstrations.

Class-room assignments to create designs for specific textile product.

Display, presentations and discussions in class.

Review and feedback on assignments.

Market visit, survey.

Visits to design houses (if possible).

Special lectures and presentations by textile professionals.

Written theory test: knowledge and understanding.

Practical assignments: application and skills.

Design assignments: innovation in design ideas, creativity and functionality.

Display and presentation: neatness and visual impact.

The main objective of this unit is to develop an understanding of the components of textile design

through a complete process for creation of textile design patterns, repeats, various layouts, use of

colors, creation of color ways for generating variety and the inspiration of design.

To develop an understanding for the components of textile design, and the related process.

To enable the students to utilize the principals and elements of design in application of textile

design development.

To understand motif and form development creative process through various methods.

To develop interesting compositions using forms and colour.

To develop sensitivity among the students for a wholesome understanding of the textile design

process.

Developing sensitivity to take various inspirations for development of design.

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Learning Outcome:

Course Content:



UNIT IV

Objectives:


To understand the application of design elements and principles for textile designing.

To get familiar with the design process and to make design ideas using innovative material and

techniques.

To enable students to work on various design compositions, repeats, layouts and color ways.

1. Elements of textile design such as motif development, repeats, layouts and color ways.

2. Inspiration for design and design process.


Class-room assignments to create designs for specific textile product.



Market visit, Survey and field visits to Textile stores.



Written theory test: understanding.




The main objective of this unit is to get an overview of the various types of textiles available in

industry. It includes study of knits, woven, printed, embellished and resist textiles. This unit

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diversifies textiles through explaining various techniques and technology in textiles. The aim is also

to understand the professional aspects of the work standards and methods existing in textile

industry at present.

To develop an understanding for the variety available in textiles.

To enable the students to gain the knowledge of various techniques and methods of creating

various types of textiles.

To develop understanding of textile terminology.

To develop understanding of professional aspects of the work practices existing in textile

industry in current scenario.

Developing textile technique skills through practical application.

Developing communication skills and ability too use right terminology for an effective Design

presentation.


To understand the application of various techniques available in textile industry.

To be able to differentiate among various textiles by looking at technique of making and design

aspects.

To enable students to realize professional aspects of the work standards in textile industry at

present.

To be able to make an effective design presentation.

1. Types of various available Textiles by techniques

2. Presentation of Design and Professional Practices


Class-room assignments to create designs for specific textile product using specific techniques.



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Learning Outcome:

Course Content:



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Market visit, Survey and field visits to nearby Textile manufacturing units.



Written theory test: understanding.






ContentsForeword

Acknowledgement

1

An Overview of Textiles: 2

1.1 History of Textiles 2

1.2 The Textile Industry 7

1.3 Textile Material and Process 10

1.4 Textile Design and Designer 14

Textile Design and Designer: 19

2.1 Textile Design 19

2.2 Role of Textile Designer 19

2.3 Timing and Planning in Textile Industry 22

2.4 Forecast and Market Trends 24

2.5 Introduction to Types of Textiles 27

31

Design Elements and Principles 32

3.1 The Elements of Textile Design 32

3.1.1 Line 32

3.1.2 Shape 33

3.1.3 Form 33

3.1.4 Space 34

3.1.5 Texture 34

3.1.6 Colour 35

3.2 Principles of Design: 36

3.2.1 Balance 36

3.2.2 Movement 37

3.2.3 Repetition 38

3.2.4 Emphasis 39

3.2.5 Contrast 40

3.2.6 Unity 40

UNIT – I: Introduction to Textile Industry

UNIT – II: The Primary Components of Textile Design

Chapter 1:

Chapter 2:

Chapter 3:


UNIT – III: Textile Design Development

UNIT – IV: Design for Various Types of Textiles

Glossary

42

Components of Textile Design 43

4.1 Motif and form development 43

4.2 Pattern and Basic Repeat: 47

4.2.1 Straight Repeat 47

4.2.2 Half Drop Repeat (Vertical) 47

4.2.3 Brick Repeat (Horizontal) 48

4.2.4 Mirror Repeat (Vertical & Horizontal) 48

4.2.5 Repeat Rotate (Clockwise and Anti-Clockwise) 49

4.3 Design Layouts and Placements 50

4.4 Colourways 52

4.5 Inspiration for Design: 53

4.5.1 Nature 54

4.5.2 Man-made Objects 54

4.5.3 Combinations 55

4.5.4 Designs by Other Designers 56

58

Design for Woven Textile: 59

Introduction to Knitting 63

Design for Printed Textile 65

7.1 Methods of Printing 65

7.2 Chemicals and Technologies used in Printing 67

7.2 Print Design Terminology 68

Design by Dyeing Textile 70

Surface Ornamentation and Embellishments: 74

Presentation of Design and Professional Practices 79

82-84

Chapter 4:

Chapter 5:

Chapter 6:

Chapter 7:

Chapter 8:

Chapter 9:

Chapter 10:


Textiles play an important part in our daily life; they fulfill vital functions and basic needs of

human beings, from covering our body with clothes to providing us with shelter in form of tents. In

simple words, textile is referred to cloth or woven fabric, made by interlacing of threads or yarns.

These yarns could be derived from various sources to produce cotton, wool, silk, linen and synthetic

yarns.

In history, textiles dates back to more than 5000 B.C., linen and woolen textiles found in excavations

and are one of the most primitive remnants of human habitat. With time, in different communities,

cultures started establishing their respective identities, and probably this is where the textiles

played an important role after taking care of the basic needs to decorate both people and related

objects by design.

The embellished and decorative textiles created by adopting various methods, such as, colouring,

manipulation in interlacement of yarns, transferring impressions of forms and motifs, textures on

surface of a fabric by using different material and adding fine objects as embellishments, etc. These

methods and processes of creating textiles are referred as textile design, and people who practice

creating such decorative textiles with aesthetic sensitivity, clear understanding of related process

and needs are called Textile designers.

Introduction


Introduction to

Textile Industry

UNIT 1


Chapter 1

1.1 History of Textiles

The history of a subject depends on its background and elements related to mankind. We

all wear clothes, but have we ever thought that this is not how a fabric appeared always.

The time changed and so the periods; the wave of change has many threads interlaced

within to form a rich heritage and a vast history of textiles. Let us try to know about the

history of textile.

In this chapter, we will learn about how and where the textile originated and how it changed and

modified to the modern version, which we are using nowadays in our daily lives.

Textile sector preserves a grand history of design and technology. The need to wear clothing is

entirely a human trait and is an aspect of most human civilizations. Anthropologists believe that

animal skins, leaves and barks were the first form of coverings which were used to protect human

body from cold, heat and other climatic change.

Textiles have been an integral part of human history and often reflect the material available and

technologies developed by a civilization. One of the best ways to look at different origins is through

the study of textile remnants through excavations which speaks a lot about the time and culture

related to a particular civilization.

Yarn, fabric and tools for spinning and

weaving have been found amongst the most primitive remnants of human habitats. Linen

fabrics were discovered in Egypt dated almost 5000 B.C. Woolen textiles from the early Bronze

Age in Scandinavia and Switzerland have also been found. The discovery of quite a few

spindles, and cotton piece attached to a silver vase, explains that the spinning and weaving of

cotton was known to the Harappa's civilization, almost five thousand years back in history.

Many indications and references to weaving and use of various materials are found in the Vedic

literature on the method of spinning. Silk fabrics have a deep rooted history in China since at

least 1000 B.C.

(http://www.factmonster.com/encyclopedia/society/textiles-history.html. A few dates are taken as

reference).

Sharing of knowledge, exchange of information and various

technologies along with transition of aesthetic sensibilities has enriched and transformed

a) Textile remains found through excavations:

b) Textiles through trades:

2

An Overview of Textiles


3

textiles in many ways. The trading of Indian textile with other countries started as early as the

second century BC. A collection of block printed and resist-dyed fabrics, found in the tombs of

Egypt, clearly reflects the export of cotton textiles from India to the Egypt in medieval times.

Trade of textiles in the ancient world happened primarily on the Silk route, a twisting path

across lower Asia that connected the Mediterranean lands with the Far East. This Silk route

stretched over 5,000 miles and established during the Han Dynasty in China around 114 BC, it

was a vital part of the distribution of man-made merchandise, civilization and beliefs.

Silk Route map

(http://www.china-tour.cn/China-Maps/Ancient-Silk-Road-Map.htm)

In the 13th century, Indian silk was used as exchange for spices from the western countries.

Towards the end of the 17th century, the British East India Company had begun exports of

Indian silks and various other cotton fabrics to other countries, including the popular fine

Muslin cloth of Bengal, Bihar and Orissa. Printed chintzes were extensively practiced between

India, China, Java and the Philippines, long before the arrival of the Europeans.

At the time of middle epoch, majority of people preferred simple clothing, while expensive

materials like silk and linen were used by royal and affluent people of society. It was during

14th century, when lot of advancement in dyeing and stitching took place resulting in the

popularity of fashion throughout West Europe.


4

Khadi a hand spun and hand woven fabric, this highly popular fabric came into existence in

India's which emphasized on self-employment and became a symbolic as well as active part of

the India freedom movement. Later the modern handloom fabric came into existence, this

included mechanized spun yarns woven on handlooms in India.

Khadi - hand spun yarn, creation by Mahatma Gandhi on Charkha

In history, the time period which is known for many inventions of

machines that helped many industries establish due to the higher speed and quantum of

production is called as industrial revolution (time period 1760 to 1840 approx as per various

historians). The Industrial Revolution scripts a key turning point in history; almost each facet

of day to day life was influenced in some way. During the industrial revolution, fabric

manufacturing was mechanized with machines powered by waterwheels and steam-engines.

Production shifted from small cottage based production to mass production based on assembly

line organization. Side by side, the clothing production continued to be made by hand.

Modern machines like, spinning wheels and handlooms came in continuation during the

Industrial Revolution. Manufacturing textiles converted into an organized industry. At the

same time a number of new innovations led to the industrialization of the textile industry in

Great Britain. Clothing manufactured during the Industrial Revolution formed a big part of

the exports made by Great Britain. Apart from cotton, wool was the main export fiber at this

time.

c) Industrial Revolution:


5

The modern innovations in clothing production, manufacture and design came into existence

during the Industrial Revolution. These included new wheels, looms, and spinning processes

which has changed the face of clothing manufacture for a better future of this growing

industry.

During this period, a lot of inventions took place, and these were meant to increase the

production speed. Some of them are, flying shuttle in 1733, the flyer-and-bobbin system and

the Roller Spinning machine by John Wyatt and Lewis Paul in 1738.

Lewis Paul later created carding machine in 1748 and the spinning jenny was also made in

1764. The water frame was invented in 1771 by Richard Arkwright, and the power loom was

invented in 1784 by Edmund Cartwright.

Illustration of a textile industry during the Industrial revolution

(http://www.rawrdenim.com/dictionary/t/textile-industry/)

Industrial revolutionists inspired the whole world, the

transformations and modifications continued to take place. Sewing machines came later into

existence in the 19th century reforming clothing manufacturing.

During this phase most of the textile industries were established near rivers, since the water

was the main driving force. After the invention of steam engine, the overall scenario changed

completely. Shuttles that were used in the textile industry were highly developed and efficient

in the later phases of the 20th century. Today we have water jet and shuttle less looms which

d) Modern Textile Industry:


6

has speeded up the mass production capacities to a much efficient level. In today's world we

have complete automated systems and fully independent large established factories which are

capable of handling the textile products from raw material stage to finished products; these

are called integrated manufacturing units.

These modern techniques, electronics and innovation in the textile industry drives itself

towards a competitive, low-priced industry offering all types of cloth and designs possible

beyond imagination.

(http://www.nyfashioncenterfabrics.com/history-of-fabric-and-textiles.html Referred for

dates and inventions in history).

1. Write short notes about the following:

a) Industrial revolution

b) Silk Route

c) Integrated manufacturing units

d) Khadi

e) Modern textile industry

2. Fill in the blanks.

a) The power loom was invented in 1784 by ………………………….

b) Khadi a ………………….. and hand woven, and highly popular fabric came into

existence in …………. which emphasized on self-employment.

c) Trade of textiles in the ancient world happened primarily on the ………………………..,

a twisting path across lower Asia that connected the Mediterranean lands with the Far

East.

d) Modern machines like Spinning wheels and handlooms came in continuation during

the …………………………...

e) During this phase most of these industries were established near ……………….., since

water was the main driving force.

EXERCISE


7

1.2 Textile Industry

What is Textile Industry all about? Is it only about the beautiful fabrics which we wear

and use in our day to day lives or is it more than that! Let us discover the facts about

textile industry as a whole and also the industries which are correlated.

In this section, we will try to unfold the facts about vast textile industry.

Textile is one of the oldest industries in the world and has prominent presence in

the national economy of many countries. Today the textile sector in India is positioned as the second

largest after agriculture. The textile industry largely refers to the production (design and

manufacturing), distribution, and consumption of textiles and textile products. It includes various

segments.

Segments of textile industry:

i. Supply of raw materials for making of textiles for example:

Natural - cotton, wool, silk etc. and Man-made - polyester and nylon polymers etc.

ii. Fibers and yarns industry - deals with a variety of fiber blending and yarn making.

iii. Fabrics -for example; broad and narrow woven/ printed/embellished fabrics, non-woven

fabrics and knitted fabrics etc.

iv. Carpet and rugs industry manufactures various types of floor-coverings for different usage.

v. Textile Process and Finishing: this segment includes dyeing, fabric finish, processing and

chemical treatments done on fabric to achieve the right feel or functionality as per the end use.

vi. Textile machinery -this can be differentiated as two main segments i.e., handloom and power

loom.

vii. Textile product distributers and suppliers, importers and exporters.

It fulfills one of the most basic needs of a common as well

as a high end consumer, and it holds great significance by maintaining steady growth for

improving quality. Textile industry holds a sole position as a self-sufficient industry, from the

production of raw materials to the production of finished products, with considerable value-

addition at every stage of handling; it is a key contribution to any country's economy.

Other than clothing, textiles also fulfill many other purposes; from the most common usage in

a household and various industrial requirements. In households, they are used in the form of

home furnishings such as, curtains, carpets, cushions covers, carpets, towels, bed sheets etc.

Textile industry:

a) Significance of textile industry:


8

The industrial usages are in a number of applications, such as, automotive and medical, special

protective clothing and agro textiles etc. The key necessities of these industrial textiles are

performance and utility, and hence most of them are referred as, Technical Textiles.

Over the years, the growth of textile industry has been enormous, due to the increase in

people's disposable income and innovation in technology.

Indian textile industry holds only one of its kind place in our

country. One of the ancient in India, it stands for 14% of the total Industrial production,

contributes to nearly 30% of the total exports and is the second largest employment producer

after farming.

The Indian textile industry is one of the largest in the world along with an enormous resource

of raw material and textiles manufacturing background, specially cotton farming.

In today's scenario Indian textile industry consists of four key segments:

Textile mills

Autonomous power looms

Handlooms and Khadi

Garments

There are some countries which specialize

in production of raw materials due to the right kind of farming conditions (soil, water, climate

etc.).

For example:

Major Cotton producer countries include - China, India, USA, Pakistan and Brazil;

Major Jute producing countries are - India, Bangladesh and China.

Major silk producing countries include China, India, and Thailand.

Main wool producing countries includes - Australia, New Zealand, and China.

Importers: The countries that cannot manufacture sufficient quantity of a certain

material/product buys from other countries are called importers. Some of the major textiles

importing countries include states of the EU, USA, China, Japan, Vietnam etc.

Exporters: The countries that can produce more than required sufficient amount of certain

material/product and supplies the superfluous goods to other countries are called exporters.

Leading textile exporting countries include China, India, Mexico, and USA etc.

b) Textile industry in India:

c) Global Producers, Importers and Exporters:

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(http://www.businessvibes.com/content/textiles-industry)

1. Write short note about the following:

a) Difference between Importer and Exporter.

b) Global producers in textile.

c) The various segments of Textile Industry

d) Textile industry in India

e) Significance of textile industry in India.

2. True or False

a) Textile Sector in India positions second largest after agriculture.

b) Major Jute producing countries are - Indonesia, Bangladesh and Vietnam.

c) Textile process and finishing includes dyeing, fabric finish, processing and chemical

treatments done on fabrics to achieve the right feel or functionality as per the end use.

EXERCISE

TopProducers

TopImporters

TopExporters

China

India

US

Bangladesh

Pakistan

Brazil

Australia

EU

US

China

Japan

Vietnam

China

India

Mexico

US


10

d) Textiles used for industrial purpose are generally referred as technical textiles.

e) Textile is one of the recent industries in the world and has not so prominent presence in

the national economy of many countries.

Textile Industry works with various raw materials and on the other hand there are many different

processes that help convert these raw materials to finished products.

In this chapter, we will learn about the aspects of textile materials and processes in two parts.

Textile Materials

There are various raw materials at the fiber stage.

Fibers and Yarns

Fiber and yarns: The material used in textiles can be divided in natural and manmade fibers, and

further it is divided into cellulose, protein, synthetic and regenerated fibers.

Natural fibers Manmade fibers

i Cellulosic iii. Synthetic

ii. Protein iv. Regenerated

These fibers are derived from natural plants, seeds, etc. The most common

cellulosic fibers are as mentioned.

Bast: The fibers which are derived from plant stems are called bast fibers. For example: flax,

hemp, jute, and ramie.

Cotton: The cotton is cellulosic fiber is derived from the fine vegetable seeds. The plants are

grown in tropical regions. This was originated in India; oldest documented use in India

(MohenjoDaro) c. 3500 B.C.

The fibers derived from various animal sources are called protein fibers.

Silk: A continuous protein filament secreted by the larvae of silk worms in order to make their

cocoons is called silk. The species Bombyxmori (Latin: silkworm of the mulberry tree) is the

most commonly cultivated species for silk. Silk filaments produce beautiful, fine, lustrous

1.3 Textile materials and processes

PART: I

a) Cellulosic fibers:

b) Protein fibers:


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fabric called silk fabric. Silk production was developed in China c. 2700 B.C. The term for the

process of raising silkworms and producing silk yarn from their cocoons is called sericulture.

Wool: The fibers of wool are derived from the fine, soft, fibers covering the skin of sheep or

Angora goat, camel or Alpaca. Wool was a popular fiber from ancient times and sheep were

kept as a herd for wool and milk.

Synthetic fibers are polymers which are derived from

absolute synthetic materials inside laboratory controlled situations and chemical processes.

Synthetic fibers are made from manufactured small molecules called polymers. The raw

material for these polymers mostly comes from petrochemicals. There are various examples of

synthetic fibers, for example: nylon, polyester, glass nylon etc.

Regenerated fibers are also manmade fibers but in this case it is a

manufactured regenerated cellulosic fiber. For example: Rayon is made from cellulose. It can

emulate the feel and texture of a natural fiber and possess the qualities similar to the natural

fiber.

Textile Processes Textile manufacturing is a major industry. It is based in the conversion of

three types, first, fiber into yarn, then fabric, then textiles. These are then fabricated into clothes or

other products.

There are many processes available at the spinning and fabric-making stages coupled with the other

processes of dyeing (colouring), printing and finishing processes to the production of a wide range of

products. In the other words we can say that textile industry has various other industries based on

processes within textile industry. The technology and chemicals involved in processing of manmade

and natural fibers are different and complex on its own.

Let us try to understand the most commonly used processes in making of a textile finished product

step by step.

i. Processes involved at fiber stage

ii. Processes involved at yarn making stage

iii. Processes at fabric manufacturing stage

iv. Finishes on fabrics

v. Processes of dyeing and printing on fabric

c) Manmade or synthetic fibers:

d) Regenerated fibers:

PART: II


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a) Processes at fiber stage:

b) Processes at yarn stage:

c) Processes at fabric manufacturing stage

There are various stages involved in this where the raw material is

converted into clean fiber form in order to create yarns or threads.

1. Ginning: This process removes the seeds, leaves etc. from the fiber to make it clean and

soft. This process is used mostly on the cellulosic fibers. It is done on the ginning

machine.

2. Blending: Blending means mixing. The cleaned fibers can be mixed with other fibers at

this stage to create blends of cotton with various other fibers. Due to blending a fabric will

contain qualities of both the fibers.

3. Carding: Carding is a stage where the fibers run through carding machine to create a

loose strand of fibers. This is the first stage of getting fibers aligned and getting prepared

for a yarn formation. Carding process is done on carding machines.

4. Combing: Combing is a process which removes the shorter fiber lengths from long ones.

This process is only done for the fiber which requires making a lustrous and strong fabric.

5. Drawing: This process is conducted for straightening of fibers for a better yarn

formation.

1. Spinning: This process is used to create yarns, in this process various technologies are

used to create a yarn out of the fiber stage.

2. To give a better strength and texture to the yarn, often two or more yarns are twisted

together, this process is called Twisting. In some cases it is done after spinning.

3. Gassing is the process of passing the yarn through a specialized flame mechanism which

burns the short and protruding fibers to make the yarn smooth and brighter.

Weaving-fabric manufacture: The process of interlacing of yarns or thread with each other

to form a fabric is called weaving. Weaving is carried out on the machine called loom.

The yarns positioned in the longitudinal axis are called warp, and the cross way yarns going in

horizontal axis are called weft. The preparation process of warp is called warping or beaming.

To add strength to the warp a layer of starch is applied on the warp threads known as sizing.


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Weaving: Once the loom is set with warp yarns, weaving process is carried out. During the

weaving process there are three primary movements of a loom called shedding (divides the

warp yarn to allow the weft yarn/thread insertion), picking (passing of weft yarn/thread

through the gaps between warp yarns), and beating-up (completes the one weft insertion for a

step by step construction of fabric weaving). These three steps are repeated again and again to

weave a fabric. The fabric created by with yarns in its natural state (without coloring) is called

a grey fabric.

The grey fabric is then taken for various steps of

finishing depending on the end use and desired look in terms of textile design.

As a first step desizing is done to remove excess starch from fabric to make it soft and

absorbent.

The next step of the process is called scouring; this is a chemical process that removes the

natural wax and fabric impurities.

Then fabric is taken for bleaching, this makes a fabric white and bright.

Some cotton fabrics are treated with caustic soda to create smoothness and luster on the

surface.

Dyeing: Dyeing or colouring is carried out on a fabric after the desizing and scouring

processes, this process is carried out to add a particular colour to the fabric. Various dyes and

chemicals are available in the market for dyeing purpose.

Printing: On one side where dyeing leaves a uniform colour on to the fabric, printing on the

other hand is applying of colour on the fabric in form of a certain pattern on selected areas only.

Printing can be carried out in various colours and brings out beautiful designs on the surface of

fabric.

Processing of synthetic fibers: Synthetic fibers are derived from various chemicals hence,

the chemical composition of dyes are different from the ones which are used for cotton and

other natural fibers.

d) Finishing- processing of textiles:

e) Dyeing and printing processes


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EXERCISE

1. Write short notes about the following (60 to 80 words).

a) Regenerated Fibers

b) Wool

c) Difference between cellulosic fibers and protein fibers

d) Spinning

e) Weaving

f) Dyeing

2. Match the following:

Weaving Cotton

Dyeing Silk

Cellulose Wool

Camel Process

Sericulture Loom

What is Textile design? Often people think that textile design and fashion design is more

or less the same thing, which in reality is not and is a misconception.

In this chapter we will get to know the overview about textile design as a field.

Textile design, by the name itself it gives an indication that it incorporates the design in the field of

fabrics or textiles.

It is the method of creating and evolving a plan using lines, forms, colours and patterns for woven,

printed, knitted or embellished fabric. Textile design encompasses design creation for fabrics used

in garments, household, decorative and accessories made of textiles.

Garments are wearable stitched dresses. For example, shirts, trousers, skirts, etc.

Household textiles are the textile products used every day at house, for

example - towels, bath mats, bed sheets etc.

There are some textile products which are used more for decoration of

a space for example - wall hangings, screens and carpets etc.

1.4 Textile Design and designer

a) Garments:

b) Household textiles:

c) Decorative Textiles:


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d) Textile accessories:

Textile Designer:

Fabrics are used for various products apart from home and garments for

example -belts, jewellery and bags etc.

Textile design process: Textile design is a vast process, it does not only involve design on paper; it

also covers various technical aspects of a fabric or textile manufacturing process.

Often textile design begins from identification and use of suitable fiber or yarn to structure, and

weaving of a fabric. At the next stage it incorporates, print/embellishment and desired finishing are

applied to convert into a finished product

Textile design facilitates various other fields such as - accessory design (bags, purses, shoes etc) and

most importantly fashion design.

Fashion designers always look forward to the best designs available in various fabrics which give an

edge to their beautiful creations of a garment or related product.

Presence of Textile design in our day to day lives:

For example:

Every night you embrace the cozy blankets and beautiful bed sheets for a nice sleep.

Towels are used every day for bathing for hygiene and beauty needs.

A textile designer is the one who first has the know-how of all textile material

and processes, and secondly understands the end use of a particular textile product and the user. It

also requires drawing skills, aesthetic sense and an understanding of market segment and trends for

a better acceptability of his designs and products. A fully equipped place where a designer works is

called a "textile design studio".

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Design Process: from a designers sketch book

A design studio


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An image of a textile design studio, often such places also has computers where designers work on

various CAD soft-wares. CAD means computer aided designs - where designs are generated with the

help of computer software. The design studio ideally has good light sources, sitting arrangements,

computers, drawing and coloring equipment and tools.

A textile designer needs to visualize a product and use creativity in coordination with the technical

and functional aspects of a fabric and the finished product made out of this fabric.

For example:

1. Functional aspects: A towel needs to be made in cotton for better absorbency and a face

towel and a bath towel sizes will be different.

2. Technical aspects: A towel will be woven on certain type of machine in certain weave

structure and weight etc.

3. Creative aspects: A towel will have a certain colour combination, form, motifs and their

respective placement or arrangement in a design to make it look attractive.

Textile industry is not only vast but also is one among the basic human requirements. To

understand textile industry it is necessary to understand its historical origin, various sectors and

aspects, and complete preview of today's modern textile industry. Thus the Chapter 1 aims

towards the understanding of textiles from various perspectives explained through separate

sections. Section 1.1 explains the study of historical developments through major events;

excavations which are a proof carved by time, textile trade through silk route and the industrial

revolution which has lead a path towards the modern textile industry. Section 1.2 gives an

overview of Textile Industry, textile industrial sectors and the interrelated industrial sectors as

well. Section 1.3 is a brief description about the textile materials and the major processes

practiced in textile industry. The variety of material available and processes used makes it a

unique industry on its own. Section 1.4 describes textile design as a profession and designer.

Textile design is a vast field and incorporates certain basic features which explain about this

profession. Often textile design is considered same as fashion design, which is not true. The

overall teaching methodology is based primarily on lectures followed by audio visual resources

and visits to industries etc. Study of this chapter shall enable a student to familiarize with the

historical background and overview of current textile industry's various sectors.

SUMMARY


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EXERCISE

1. Answer the below questions in 60 to 80 words.

a) What are the various aspects a textile design that you will take care while designing for

a fabric?

b) Who is a textile designer?

c) What are textile accessories?

d) What is Textile design as a profession?

e) What is a textile design studio?

2. Choose products that a textile designer would design.

Leather Boots

Metallic buttons

Knit fabrics

Printed cushion cover

Bed sheet and pillow case

Textile Machinery

Woven shirting fabric

Ceramics


Chapter 2

2.1 Textile Design

2.2 Role of Textile Designer

Textile Design: Textile design is a method of creating designs and patterns for woven, non-woven,

printed, knitted or embellishments of fabrics. To understand this in other words we can also say that

textile design is a complete process from deciding and planning the raw material through a design

process to envision and create a finished product. During textile design process technical aspects

like fiber, yarn, finishes are the key elements, and on the other hand creative elements like color

scheme, design and pattern are also considered. Textile design is a creative profession that leads to

fashion design, home textile design, interior design or any other field which incorporates fabric in

any form.

Mostly designing process begins with receiving and understanding a design brief, the brief explains

the requirements of a product that needs to be designed. First, the initial ideas in form of drawings

on paper, colour sketches, patterns, layouts and suggestive fabric types put together. Once a design

is selected by the client or buyer or manufacturer, it goes for an actual scale sample making with

required modifications if any, this is called prototyping or sampling. Designs for woven fabrics are

often made on graph papers for better understanding of weave and yarn calculation. Now a day's

designers are using a lot of computer technology/software for creation of designs which is called CAD

- computer aided design.

1. Write short notes about the following.

a) Textile design

b) Designer

As the name depicts Textile Designer, they are the professionals who create innovative designs for

our everyday textiles, they are not only restricted to designing on paper, in fact their role is much

more than this.

EXERCISE

19

Textile Design and Designer


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In this chapter, we will get to know about how textile designers work, and what is the role of a textile

designer in textile industry?

Textile designer create designs on paper or computer that can be used, often as a repeat design to

cover the width and length of running fabric in yardage for the production of woven, knits, printed

fabrics or other textile products.

A designer work in environments, industrial and non-industrial, depending on the nature of

organization and production. Within textile products there are two main classifications, and

designer can opt to specialise in any one or two, and possibly other kind of further specialisation.

The two main areas are:

Interiors and Home furnishings (soft furnishings and carpets)

Fabrics for clothing (fashion fabrics or technical textiles for e.g. fire-proof fabrics).

Textile designers also work in correlated industries, for example, designing gift wrap paper, wall

papers, packaging design, graphic and ceramic design.

A textile designer may also work as a member of design team, and or design studios are the places

where they usually work in.

A few textile designers work independently and work with various clients at a time, they are called

self-employed or freelance textile designer or design consultant.

Work activities of a Textile Designer: The job profile of textile designer may include various

activities, some activities involved mainstream design and the other activities are related to

development of designs in actual product form. In some areas where the designers establish their

own company they work on the promotional activities of their own products too.

The role of a textile designer could broadly be defined in various segments depending on the need of

the industry.

A textile designer needs to coordinate with clients, marketing and buying staff to plan and

develop designs.

They need to accurately understand and represent customer's requirements.

A textile designer creates design ideas and develops samples for presentation to customers.

He/she incorporates customer's feedback and ensures required changes in design and sample.

A textile designer also checks and approves finished samples and production standards. .

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Needs to work as a part of team and handles design and development through guiding the team

as well.

Using specialized software and computer-aided design (CAD) programs to develop a range of

new designs.

A textile designer is expected to experiment with colour, fabric and texture.

He/she needs to maintain up-to-date knowledge of new designs and up gradation in production

and textile technology.

Textile designers also keep developing new design concepts which build the design archive.

As a part of the large team they need to ensure completion of design projects on time.

They also make regular market visits to update their understanding of market trends and

requirements.

Spotting fashion trends in textile design by reading forecasts and trade magazines is another

essential element of their role.

Sourcing new fabrics, various trims and materials at trade fairs, suppliers, market and antique

shops.

Textile designers also need to attend various trade shows, either as a visitor or as a company

representative.

They keep developing a business network which helps them find new suppliers for various

textile techniques which can be incorporated in textile design.

In case a textile designer is self-employed, apart from designs, he/she also manage marketing,

everyday business dealings and promotional activities.

1. Write short notes on the following (60-80 words).

a) Freelance textile designer

b) Sourcing requirements for textile designer

c) Design archive

d) Design Team

EXERCISE


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2. Which of the following activities defines the role of a textile designer? Tick mark

in the correct columns.

a) Sourcing new fabrics and various other

trims and materials at trade fairs,

suppliers, market and antique shops.

b) Developing a business network

c) Going frequently market for shopping

d) Working in isolation

e) Market visits for market study

f) Working as per own wish

g) experiment with color and designs

h) Using specialized software and computer

-aided design (CAD)

We all know that all industries are driven by time and planning. So what do you think,

does textile industry follow some kind of time plan? If yes, what are the time schedules

and how are they followed through a strong planning?

In this chapter we will try to unfold the facts about timing and planning in textile industry.

Most of the western countries have very distinct seasonal change

and people who shop during summer have different requirements as compared to winters. Based on

the season change and diversified requirements, the international textile industry is divided in two

parts of year by seasons and they are referred as:

1. Spring-Summer: Spring summer is referred to the first six months of year, beginning

roughly from January to June or April to September. It incorporates the fabrics and textile

manufacturing suitable for spring and summer season for example light weight cotton fabrics.

2. Autumn-Winter: This is referred to the later six months of year, beginning from July to

December or October to March. This season includes the textile products which are suitable

for winters, for example, woolen fabrics.

2.3 Timing and planning in Textile Industry

Timings in Textile Industry:


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Planning: To deliver the goods at a shop the planning usually begins nine months to a year in

advance in case of exports, and three to six months for domestic market. This planning is required

due to several activities involved in making of a product from raw material stage to reaching of the

product to store shelf for sale.

These activities involve:

a) Forecast study and market research: The designers study the forecast and market trends

and start working on initial designs and concepts.

b) Design concept and approvals: Designs created by designers goes through a process of

client presentation for approvals and feedbacks.

c) Final Design /approvals/ corrections: Based on the feedback the final designs are created

which goes through another round of approvals.

d) Sample developments: Final approved designs go for actual size sample/prototype

development.

e) Approvals and corrections: Prototypes go through a round of critical analysis. The purpose

of which is to ensure that if there are any errors at the sample stage it could be corrected so that

the final product is feasible for production and usability.

f) Production/manufacturing: Once the product sample is finalized, then it is ready for mass

production. Mass production means making of same pieces in large numbers or quantity.

Production is done as per fixed pre decided schedule, for example, 60 days, 90 days, or

depending on the raw material procurement and time required for fabric process and

stitching.

Packaging of ready material is also another essential part of production.

g) Dispatch: Once all the products/goods are ready, then they are ready for dispatch to the

locations where it needs to be sold or circulated to other points or specific stores/shops etc.

Usually before sending them directly to shops, ready goods are first dispatched to warehouse.

h) Warehouse: Dispatched goods are generally kept in large sized well organized places called

warehouses; these warehouses may be at different locations. From the warehouses the timely

dispatches of product quantities are planned for different stores.

i) Product in stores: Once the product reaches stores it is displayed in shelves and it is ready to

be sold. Generally a packed product at store reflects its MRP(maximum retail price) along-

with an attractive picture and information about the product.


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j) On shelf-life: A product remains on shelf for a maximum of 4 to 5 months; if it is not sold

within a specific period, then generally it goes for a discounted price sale. This is also the time

when new season's goods are ready to move in the stores. This is how textile field works in a

cyclic form of two seasons.

1. Write short notes on the following (words 60-80).

a) Dispatch

b) Manufacturing/production

c) Sample development

d) Spring/Summer

e) Warehouse

2. Fill in the blanks.

a) The designers study the forecast and market ……….. and start working on initial

designs and concepts.

b) Final approved designs go for actual ………… sample development.

c) Autumn winter season includes the textile products which are suitable for …………….

for example woolen fabrics.

d) Once the product reaches a store it is ……………….. in shelves and it is ready to be sold.

e) Mass production means making of same pieces in large numbers or ………………..

quantity.

In textile design, knowing and understanding the surroundings, markets, current

trends and also information about innovations are an important part of design

profession.

This chapter is all about understanding the trends and forecast in textile design and its significance.

In the previous chapter we learnt about the timing and planning in textile design and

manufacturing. As designers, merchandisers and retailers needs to work well in advance at least

EXERCISE

2.4 Forecast and Market Trends


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two seasons ahead to get proper time to plan the schedules, they need the system of anticipation of

customer's needs and wants well ahead of time. The system of understanding trends, analyzing

them and deriving the anticipation about the trends which will be prevalent in coming seasons is

called forecast.

At a given time there are certain set of design and style attributes which pulls more popularity than

others. These attributes are collectively called trends by textile and fashion industry. Textile

professionals need to study the market regularly to understand the popular trends to be

incorporated in the designs and related products.

In order to understand the market trends one needs to carry out various activities listed below.

Designer's representation of Trend Forecast for Spring/Summer 2014

a) Studying market conditions: It is the study of the consumers buying behavior and influences

by society, economics, technology & the environment. For example, at the time of economic

slowdown people tend to move towards conservative spending behaviors.

b) Observing different lifestyle changes of customers. For example: Nuclear families in metro

cities and joint families in small towns will have different lifestyles.

c) The market study can be also done by taking feedback from customers, for example, through

survey forms/questioners.

d) Past data analysis: In a store which products and colours that have sold well and the products

that have not sold well. Collecting all the sales data and measuring it based on the analysis of

sales-figures in coordination with design/colour/style also helps determining the current and

upcoming trend information.

e) Keeping up with current events, media, arts and other related developments in current events.


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f) Surveying and analyzing fashion publications, catalogs, magazines and websites. These could

be any fashion magazine, such as, Vogue, Marie Claire, Elle Décor etc., and product catalogues

from various brands and their websites.

g) Going through trade publications: Trade publications are the journals which are published for

specific trade or industry and is mostly referred by the professionals and experts of the trade.

For example, Home Fashions.

h) Forecast Agencies: There are international and national agencies having a dedicated team for

conducting market research worldwide; these agencies are called forecast agencies. These

agencies generally have their own paid website services or forecast and research material in

published form. Textile designers and various textile brands and companies refer to the

forecast before venturing into new design ideas for coming new season. These forecasts are

done at least two to three seasons in advance for a better planning for the textile industry. For

example, WGSN and Style-sight are web based forecasting services.

(Image from style-sight home page)

1. Write short notes on the following (60-80 words)

a) State various activities which can help in trend study.

b) Forecast

c) Need for market study

d) Seasons followed in textile design forecast

e) Trade Publications

EXERCISE


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2. Which of the following activities should not be considered under market trend

study? 'Tick' mark the incorrect ones.

a) Visiting market and random shopping

b) Observing other people shopping and making a

list of best sellers for the day

c) Reading articles in Fashion magazines

d) Reading novels

e) Keeping pace with media activities and art events

f) Going through forecast websites

g) Conducting survey for a particular textile brand

h) Asking random questions to customers while

they are shopping

Textiles are a part of our everyday life. From morning to night textile products touches

our lives in various ways. There are different types of textiles categorized as per making

techniques.

This chapter is a broad description about the different type of textiles.

1. Woven Textiles

2. Printed Textiles

3. Resist Dyed Textiles

4. Surface embellished Textiles

5. Non-woven Textiles

6. Knits

7. Technical Textiles

A woven fabric is constructed in step by step process of yarns interlacing

each other at 90 degrees angle. These are two set of yarns, one in vertical axis referred as warp,

2.5 Introduction to types of textiles

1. Woven Textiles:


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and other in horizontal axis referred as weft. Warp runs along the length and weft along the

width of a fabric. Different manipulations in interlacing yarns give various structured

patterns or designs, and these can be created depending on the mechanisms and methods

used. Based on the methods used for weaving, woven fabrics can be categorized in various

types. The extreme two edges of fabric widthwise is called selvedge. The mechanism used to

create woven fabrics is called loom.

Designs are created through colour application on the surface of textiles

through various printing methods and is referred as printed textile. Printed textiles are vast in

terms of designs as they can offer a wide range of design options from simple to complex.

Thanks to today's modern technology; you can click a picture and the same picture can be

translated exactly on fabric through special printing methods. In ancient times natural

materials producing colours were used for printed fabrics however now a day's various dyes

and chemicals are used for printing. The end use of printed fabrics is as vast as the fabric range

itself. These fabrics are used from home furnishing to apparels, and in almost everything.

There are various techniques used for resisting or blocking a certain

area of a fabric prior to dyeing the fabric to get different interesting patterns. Resist dyeing

techniques are one of the oldest methods of creating designs on fabrics. Resisting on fabric or

yarns is done through various techniques including folding, tying, clamping, waxing etc.

These are hand techniques and associated with various regional crafts of the world.

Surface embellishment techniques add attraction to any

fabric. There are various methods available and has a rich history of traditional technical

expertise worldwide. The major techniques are embroidery, appliqué, patchwork and fabric

manipulation for value addition on textile surfaces.

The fabric is not always woven, sometimes fibers are put together in

chemical solutions and a layer of fabric is created through fiber bonding creating a padded

look. The most common non-woven fabrics are felt created out of wool fibers. These are used to

make doormats and blankets etc.

A knitted fabric is very different from woven fabric, and is based on a complete different

technique of interlacement of yarns. It is created by formation of loops connected to each other

one by one, by a single yarn. Knits are very flexible and stretchable up-to 500 percent.

Traditional woolen sweaters are created by this technique. Today knits are as popular as

woven fabrics and used in T-Shirts, socks and many other garments, especially in sportswear.

The textiles used for industrial purposes are called technical textiles.

You must have observed the people working on road construction sites wearing special

2. Printed Textiles:

3. Resist Dyed Textiles:

4. Surface Embellished Textiles:

5. Non-woven Textiles:

6. Knits:

7. Technical Textiles:


29

garments which reflects prominent light or fire brigade people wearing textiles which can

resist a higher degree of temperature. These textiles are created or treated using specialized

techniques which hold specific attributes as per various technical and industrial needs.

Textile design is one of the key areas of textile industry. In order to understand the roles and

responsibilities of textile design as a profession it's important to understand the professional

aspects of this field. This chapter aims towards the understanding of textile design profession,

role and responsibilities of textile designer and various aspects of work, time planning and trend

studies broadly followed in textile design industry. Section 2.1 covers the study of textile design

as a field. Since textile industry is vast and interrelated to various other industries it becomes

necessary to understand the areas that are design specific. Section 2.2 explains the role of a

textile designer in textile industry. The work and responsibilities of a textile designer defines the

complete role of a designer. Section 2.3 is a description about the time lines and planning

followed broadly by textile industry. This chapter also helps to understand the importance of the

planning in the industry. Section 2.4 describes the need for forecast and trend studies in context

with textile industry. Most of the design industries follow the trends and it is an integral part and

necessity. In fact textile design work begins with the study of seasonal forecast and trends.

Section 2.5 is a brief introduction to various types of textile and design aspects related to it. A

detailed explanation of various textiles mentioned in this chapter is available in chapters 5, 6, 7

and 8. The overall teaching methodology is based primarily on lectures followed by audio-visual

resources and visits to industries etc. At the end of this course content a student should be able to

relate to the industrial and professional terminology and should be able to understand the work

areas in textile design.

1. Write short notes on the following with examples (60 -80 words).

a) Technical Textiles

b) Difference between woven and non woven textiles

c) Printed Textiles

d) Resist methods

e) Use of nonwoven textiles

SUMMARY

EXERCISE


30

2. Mentioned below are some types of end use of technical textiles.

Mark the correct ones.

1. Fire retardant fabrics for workers working at Fire brigade

2. Kitchen towels with good absorbency

3. Light weight pillow covers

4. Light reflection fabrics for civil engineers

5. Insulation fabrics used for machinery

6. Soft fabrics for babies quilts


The PrimaryComponents ofTextile Design

UNIT 2


Chapter 3

The elements and principles of textile design

3.1.1 Line

The understanding of basic language of design and the important units associated with it are

essential part of design profession, design and fine art. The knowledge and ability to appropriately

use this language make a design successful. Any product, specially a textile product first attracts

attention of viewer because of its overall form, colour and surface appearance, and later comes its

quality, price and brand value.

A good textile design is about relating suitable elements and principles of design to achieve visually

interesting textile product while keeping in view the material, fabric, structure, customer,

manufacturing procedure, economics and market trends.

The main function of design is to regularly create visually aesthetical and functional

solutions for our day to day life. Where as an art created by an artist mainly has

aesthetical value, and it is a highly personal actively. To express these visual aesthetics,

both design and artist needs to use same elements and principles. There are many ways

of visually relating and interestingly arranging different kinds of images, and some

components of these images to create a new visual composition. This new composition

will consist of elements, such as lines, shapes, forms colours and textures.

A line can be drawn using a pencil or pen or any other similar tool by joining any two or more points.

A human eye follows the path of a line that indicates direction.

The movement of a line may be horizontal, vertical or diagonal, straight or curved. Line, depending

on its use may recall, inform, describe, amuse, make fantasy, signify subjective forces, and arouse

deep lying associations, all with impressive economy. Lines as pictograms, ideograms or words - that

is, lines as writings - signify things, actions, concepts, qualities and conditions across a spectrum of

civilizations.

3.1 Elements of design

32

Design Elements and Priciples


33

3.1.2 Shape

3.1.3 Form

A shape is created when the two starting ends of a line turn and join together. Shape can also be

referred as a silhouette or flat image pertaining to and rather than mass. This created shape is also

referred as a figure; it is a positive element that occupies a position in space. Hence a shape cannot

exist or be visually visible without space.

There are various types of shapes visible in and around nature and our surroundings. Depending on

the simplicity or complexity of a shape, the size, the colour or texture that it may have, it will draw

more visual attention than other.

A three dimensional shape or object is referred to as a form. It is a visual and physical structure of an

object. In design, when we see a form in two dimensions, then it is the illusion of three dimensional

volume and mass. All most all the natural and man-made objects will have one or other kind of form.

Like shapes, even forms can also be different from each other by their respective size, scale, colour or

textures.

Points Line

Movement (Lines) Shape


34

3.1.4 Space

3.1.5 Texture

Space is infinite or boundless or intangible, it is also a blank or unoccupied area in a defined bigger

space. It is also referred to an in-active background in a composition. Space also flows in, around and

in-between shapes and or forms in a design. Even a space could have colour or textures.

Texture is the surface sensuality of objects that is perceived by touch. A touch by our hand or

rubbing our hand over a surface will give us realization about some sensual character of this surface

such as smooth to rough, hairy, poky, sandy, grainy or bumpy.

Texture refers to surfaces that have more than two dimensions thereby enhancing the surface

quality. For example, there is the smooth surface of silk or mirror and the textured surface of jute or

snow. Texture can change the character of a colour or the personality of a figure. As human beings,

we are very sensitive to tactile stimulation. Therefore the surface quality or textural variations of

all objects are important.

Form (in black) & Space (in white) Form & Space (relation of negative positive)

Texture (in nature)


35

3.1.6 Colour

Colour is a physical attribute of objects that results from light they reflect and transmit the aspect of

visual perception that can be recognised by an observer. The physical environment also plays an

important role and affect colour.

For example, if one were to say Red, Blue or Yellow, just by hearing these colours each person would

have a significantly different perception of what each specific colour means. Perceptions of colours

vary according to cultures, geographic regions, diverse ages, emotional, personal preferences etc. It

is affected by the nature of light, materials, surfaces, and other colours, to mention a few.

1. Draw a square format of 8" x 8" inches in black line on white paper, use total 15

lines in black of same thickness (0.10 mm approx.) and length (3" to 1" inch

approx.) and represent two examples each of following:

a) Three different shapes in the above mentioned square.

b) Two different forms in the above mentioned square.

c) One texture using these lines in the above mentioned square.

2. Draw a square format of 8" x 8" inches in black line on white paper, use soft-lead

pencil of 4B or 6B, and represent two examples each of the following:

a) Get textures from nature that you can transfer on to the above mentioned square by

rubbing in 6" x 6" inch square.

b) Get texture from man-made objects that you can transfer on to the above mentioned

square by rubbing in 6" x 6" inch square.

EXERCISE

Colour-wheel Colours on a surface


36

c) Make a shape of 4" x 4" inches (approx.) by rubbing a texture from nature.

d) Make a shape of 4" x 4" inches (approx.) by rubbing a texture from man-made object.

3. Draw square format of 8" x 8" inches in black line on white paper back ground,

using water base colours (poster colours) represent two examples each of

following:

a) Create a composition using four different shapes of 1 ½" x 1 ½ " inch (approx.) and fill

them in four different colours and give a suitable title.

b) Create a composition using three different shapes of 2"x 2" inches (approx.) and fill

them in three different colour representing different textures in colour.

The elements of design familiarized us with their respective importance in every design

or work of art. The way these elements are used and put together determines the quality

and aesthetics of creative invention in form of design or art.

Careful planning and placing the design elements will make a design or piece of art look

visually pleasing, and the appropriate balance, symmetry, emphasis, movement,

repetition and contract play an important role as the fundamental principles of design.

Balance in visual arts and design is the relation between the positive and the negative. Positive is

referred to the figure or shape or form, and negative is referred to ground or unoccupied space. A

visual balance is achieved by placing and organizing various figures on and across a specific ground

or space almost at an equal distance, or keeping the centre of grainy in view, or randomly to create an

informal balance.

Thus balance can be of two type, symmetrical balance and asymmetrical balance.

Symmetrical Balance: A chess board is an example of an absolutely symmetrical balanced

composition, though its aesthetical success may be questionable. This kind of balance restrains

movement of every kind and ultimately fails to hold interest for any length of time unless handled in

a sophisticated manner. It is stable, absolute, safe, familiar and finally invisible unless energized by

subtle contrasts and tensions, thus leads to absolute mathematical symmetry.

3.2 Principles of design

3.2.1 Balance


37

Asymmetrical Balance: This kind of balance may be achieved when one area of visual dominance

in a composition is combined with other areas taking on a subordinate role. It involves the

balancing of qualities other than the weights. Asymmetrical balance achieved between a solid and

hollow form, a pale Blue and an intense Red or a large positive and a small negative space invites the

spectator to participate in offbeat visual expression of a form of balance, commonly referred as

anasymmetrical balance.

Movement in a design or piece of art is referred to a visual expression, when different elements force

our eyes to move around the design object or composition dynamically in order to see the whole in a

particular flow or direction. Whereas the elements are not moving, it is the illusion of movement

that is created by juxtaposition or repetition of forms and shapes by a designer or an artist. The

sensation of movement in a design can intensely effect of the viewer's responses towards this design.

3.2.2 Movement

Balance-Symmetric

Balance-Asymmetric


38

Repetition means repeating or duplicating one thing more than once, again and again. In design,

repeating elements, such as colour, form, shape line in such a manner that the image of a design

tends to unify the total effect in a design or piece of art along with creating a visual rhythm.

Repetition in nature is a very common sight; we all notice it in petals of a flower, patterns on leaves,

skin pattern of a Leopard or Zebra.

There are three basic types of repetition

i. Sequence: Regular repetition

The repetition of points, lines, shapes or forms at regular or slightly varying intervals, as in a

row of shirt buttons or the stripes on a Zebra.

ii. Rhythm: Accented repetition

There is a profound rhythm to be found in man and in nature, for example, in walking,

3.2.3 Repetition

Movement

Repetition


39

running, and breathing; in the seasons, phases of the moon, tides of the sea, voices of animals,

birds and insects. Rhythm consists of directional movement created by patterns of strong and

weak pulsations. A rhythmical sequence could be created by arranging large and small points

(and lines) in variously staggered positions. It is more than just a beat or pulse repeated

regularly. No tradition of ornament or decoration seems to have existed without it.

Rhythmical repeats are also found in craft techniques like basket making, weaving, knitting

etc.

A combination of strong and weak accents, rising and falling attitudes, wide and narrow

intervals of space, or alternating motifs produce eye-catching movements.

iii. Balance: Stabilized Repetition

This is stabilized repetition. Though it may have many things in common with sequence and

rhythm, it does not suggest movement along a continuous path. Balance may be defined as a

pleasing harmonious relationship between the positive and the negative. Balance is the

organization of the various weights of a whole across a center of gravity. It is a relationship

where all parts of a whole are comfortably settled.

Emphasis is attention or focus on a specific desired areas or elements or a single element of a design.

It is also to stand-out one or more elements than the rest in a composition. By doing this a design can

create area of interest that may cause our eye to come back on this area again and again.

It is used to attract attention to and clearly state the importance of the idea presented. Emphasis,

when used with discretion adds a charm which harmony alone cannot give. It is the idea of optical

simulation by the daring application of any one rule of the elements or principles of design - in

reverse.

3.2.4 Emphasis

Emphasis


40

3.2.5 Contrast

3.2.6 Unity

Contrast in a design means that some elements stand out because of differences between the other

elements or they are not alike, for example, shapes like square, circle and triangle. For example,

placement of opposite colours in a colour wheel. Contrast make things stand out, lack of contrast can

lead to simple camouflage. On other hand too much contract throughout a design or in a painting

can destroy the harmony and create visual confusion. Therefore it also helps dealing monotony in a

design.

Unity in a design is the cohesive linking of various elements in a design to achieve harmony. This

also reflects that every element in a design has equal importance and value. It is the relationship

among the elements that helps all of them to work together to give a visual sense of oneness in a

design or image.

Contrast

Unity


41

SUMMARY

This chapter describes complete understanding of basic language of design and the important

units associated with it. There are various basic principles associated with design without which

a design can neither be explained nor be understood. It's important to know various elements of

design. Section 3.1 discusses various elements of designs such as line, shape, form, space, texture

and colour. Section 3.2 explains the principles on which the design is based. It is explained in

relation with the textile design which includes balance, movement, repetition, emphasis,

contrast and unity. All the aspects are explained in the chapter with visual references. Most of

the methodology for teaching is process based and is oriented towards practical learning.

Knowing about these aspects helps students to get familiar with design basics which will further

enable them to design with rational thinking and application of design principles in the required

textile design filed.

1. Draw square format of 8" x 8" inches in black line on white paper, use a minimum

of 7 to 15 lines in black along with different shapes, forms and textures, and

represent two examples each of following:

a) Symmetric balance

b) Asymmetric balance

c) Repetition

d) Movement

e) Contrast

2. Draw square format of 8" x 8" inches in black line on white paper back ground,

using water base colours (poster colours) represent one example each of

following:

a) Create a composition representing 'Movement' using four different shapes of 1 ½" x 1

½" inch (approx.) and fill them in four different colours.

b) Create a composition representing 'Emphasis' using three different shapes of 2"x 2"

inches (approx.) and fill them in three different colours.

EXERCISE


Textile Design

Development

UNIT 3


Chapter 4

43

4.1 Motif and form development

What is motif and what are the various methods and process followed in textile design

for motif and form generation?

In this chapter we will learn various processes of motif generation.

Motif is a core unit or design element which has certain defined characteristics

based on a particular style of aesthetics and can be used in textile design to create various repeat

patterns. Similarly form can be any visual shape or a combination of shapes generating a new shape.

Textile designs thrives on original ideas and unique design

concepts. The motifs or single unit of designs which are the core contributors of any textile design

repeat plays a very important role.

We come across various designs/objects in our day to day life and the shapes/elements/colors that

preserves in our mind in form of visual information. In order to break through and create something

which is original idea, various processes or methods needs to be followed so we generate a motif or a

set of design elements which reflects our inspiration, thought process and is original at the same

time.

Let us discuss some of the popular methods of motif and form development.

Motif and form:

Motif and form development:

Components of Textile Design

Motif Repeat


44

1. Generating various forms and motifs through nature and man-made objects study:

In this method we can take inspiration from any natural or man-made objects and we can

depict it in various styles keeping the original shape same.

Step 1: Maple leaf - Inspiration

Take inspiration from any natural object and draw it its original form.

Maple leaf - original drawing

Step 2: Maple leaf - Motif generation

Draw the maple leaf in various styles to generate different motif such as

a) Geometric: using geometrical shapes following the maple leaf original shape - image

1 & 2.

b) Ornamental: using intricate and decorative style of drawing to generate ornamental

motif of a maple leaf shape - image 3.

c) Stylized: drawing the maple leaf shape changing its style to a different style - image 4.

1 2


45

2. Generating various forms through metamorphosis process: Metamorphosis is a

process which combines different elements from different objects transforming each of them

and combining as one. This is a process inspired by the process of evolution found in nature.

Let us try to understand this process through an example below.

Step 1: Take any two or more natural beings and draw them in their original form. In this

example we have taken inspiration from three living beings - horse, eagle and cock.

Step 2: Draw the three forms by keeping any one prominent feature and combine them

together. This can be done using various steps also (image left).

Step 3: Color them as per the requirement (image right)

3 4


46

3. Generating various motifs through generation of a theme board: Take any

topic/subject and research about it. Collect various images and put it together in an aesthetic

manner. This is your theme board which works as a visual information as well as visual

inspiration for a textile designer to work further to generate motifs. Let us understand this

aspect from a theme board inspired by zodiac signs.

Step 1- Generation of theme board

Step 2: Motif generation shall be done through taking inspiration from the

colors/mood/textures and forms depicted in the theme board. Create various sketches inspired

from the elements of mood board and add color/texture to it to generate motifs. See below

examples of motifs generated through the theme board depicted above.

Motif 1 Motif 2


47

EXERCISE

1. Take any three natural beings, create sketches in black and white in pencil on A3 sheets and

generate one motif through metamorphosis process on A3 sheet.

2. Take any man made or natural object - and sketch it in its own original form on A3 sheet.

Create 3 geometric and 3 ornamental style forms inspired from it on A3 size sheet (3 motifs

on one sheet).

3. Choose any topic and create an A3 size theme board. Create 4 motifs of 6x6 inch size taking

inspiration from the theme board.

Pattern is referred to a visual affect which is based on the intended interrelationship of

one or more elements. Usually it is achieved by repetition of some elements or

component parts. In textile design, designs are created and planned in such a manner

that one design unit is repeated side by side across the width of a fabric, and end to end

along the entire length of fabric in a regular continuous flow without any break in

pattern.

Therefore the pattern and repeats are very important and integral part of almost all

textile design work, especially in the running meterage fabric, some of the basic repeats

followed are, straight repeat, half drop and mirror repeat.

The simplest repetition is achieved by placing a design unit in a square grid format by repeating the

design unit side by side next to each other both horizontally and vertically in straight lines to create

a continuous pattern.

A vertical half-drop repeat is achieved by sliding or dropping the design unit half way down in

vertical axis, in length wise direction. To achieve variation in this, less than half or other fraction

such as one-third drop can also be applied.

4.2 Pattern and basic repeats

4.2.1 Straight Repeat

4.2.2 Half-drop repeat (vertical)


48

4.2.3. Brick repeat (horizontal)

4.2.4. Mirror repeat

Brick repeat is also referred as tile repeat and is another simple kind of repeat that follow, same

fundamental as vertical half-drop repeat, except that, in brick repeat the placement of design unit is

side-ways either on left or right, and in second row the unit shifts half way across in horizontal

direction or width-wise. Even in this repeat variation in the amount of shift can be achieved.

Mirror repeat can give us numerous possibilities to achieve different kind of repeats. A horizontal

mirror image of design unit will give us the simplest mirror repeat, and so does with vertical mirror

image. A horizontal or vertical mirror repeat can again be mirrored in opposite direction to get a

bigger compound unit of design, and this can further be repeated using straight or half-drop repeat.

Straight repeat Half-drop repeat (vertical)

Brick repeat (horizontal) Mirror repeat


49

4.2.5 Rotate repeat

A unit of design can be repeatedly placed in clockwise or anti-clockwise direction to achieve a new

pattern or design unit. This new unit can further create patterns using other simple repeats

mentioned earlier.

Mirror repeat (mix-vertical & horizontal)

Half-drop repeat (vertical mirror)

Half-drop mirror (horizontal)

Rotate repeat (clock-wise)

Rotate repeat (anti-clock-wise)


50

EXERCISE

1. Draw square format of 12" x 12" inches in pencil on white paper, make a motif of 1

½" x 1 ½ " inch (approx.) in solid black or any one colour inspired from nature and

use this motif 9 to 12 times to represent one examples each of following:

a) Straight repeat

b) Half-drop repeat (vertical)

c) Brick - repeat (horizontal)

d) Mirror repeat.

2. Draw square format of 12" x 12" inches in pencil on white paper, make a motif of 1

½" x 1 ½ " inch approx. inspired from man-made objects in two colours, repeat this

shape 6 to 9 times to represent two examples each of following:

a) Clock-wise rotate repeat

b) Half-drop vertical repeat

Positioning and arrangement of various design elements or motifs or patterns on a

specific marked surface area or a design plain while keeping in view the width, length,

manufacturing process and end-use of fabric or textile is referred as design layout or

design placement in textile design process.

There are numerous ways of arranging motifs and patterns, and these arrangements can give

various types of layouts. Creating design layouts is an integral part of textile design process that

leads to beautiful and innovative visual expressions of a textile product.

When a design is reproduced on surface of fabric, it must be worked and converted into a standard

unit of design in repeat form. This standard unit needs to be in a specific size, scale and follow an

arrangement of motifs. As mentioned earlier that the design layouts and placements are always

determined based on the final end product.

In case of furnishing or dress-material fabric, all-over or randomly tossed or free-flowing placements

are preferred, whereas, in case of bed-covers, quilt-covers, cushion-covers, carpets, scarves and saris

etc., design layouts are done keeping in view the harmonious relation of borders, central main

4.3 Design layouts and placements


51

surface or body, corners and edges of these products, and their respective usage. In saris the wider

one-sided border is called 'pallau'. These multiple interrelated arrangement and placement of

putting together the border, overall motifs and medallion are referred as 'engineered' layouts in

textile design.

Let us look into different layouts and placements below.

Border Open Border

One-sided open border Closed border

Sari design: Motifs on main body, borders and Pallau border design


52

4.4 Colourways

In textile design, a colourway is to make one or more alternatives of a design or design unit by

changing existing colours to different new colours. Everything in the original design remains

exactly the same, except that all the original colours are replaced by other set of colours. By altering

and replacing colours, look of the original design either changes partly or drastically. For example, if

an original design has a total of five colours in it, even the colourways of this design will five colours,

and so will in the rest all other colourways. It is important to remember that the shape, form, size

and placement of the other elements do not change at all; it is only the colour that will change.

The most common practice followed in making colourways is to change the colours by maintaining

the intensity and value of colours as per the original design.

Colourways are created mainly to provide options to the customer or based on the local regional

social culture, and for commercial reasons to increase the sales of the products.

Original colours (initial design) Colourway-1 (colour option 1 of original)

Colourway-2 (colour option 1 2 of original)

Engineer placement/layout


53

EXERCISE

1. Draw square format of 8" x 8" inches in pencil on white paper, make a motif of 1" x 1" inch

(approx.) use this motif in different orientations and represent two examples each of

followings:

a) In black outline create an overall pattern surface.

b) In black outline create a border of 1 ½" width.

c) Create layout for a head-scarf using overall motif pattern and border.

2. a) Make a design for head scarf in 12" x 12" inches on white paper using for six colours.

You may use the pattern and layout from above exercise no.: 1.c).

b) Make two colourways of the above head-scarf design (in same size) create in above

exercise no.: 2.a).

3. Make a design for sari in 15" x 9" inches (approx.) on whitepaper using four to eight colours,

using any motif of 1 ½" x 1 ½" inches (approx.) and a coordinated border of 2" inches width

(approx.), and a wider border as a 'pallau' of 5" inches width approx.

All the designs are based on some of thought or motivation or sources that inspires designer to create

a new design. It could be either from the natural resource, mam-made object, the surroundings

around us, material and the techniques used, or combination two or more resources. Promising

textile designs are achieved through proper paper work following a design process. A design

normally starts first by understanding a design brief or the requirement of customers, then designer

considers an inspirational theme or source, and then starts drawing, creating and exploring initial

design ideas on paper (or on computer using suitable software), all this is based on the inspiration

and design brief.

4.5 Inspiration for design


54

The elements and principles of design are carefully applied while creating new design ideas and

finally giving them a final plan and layout as per the requirement of specific textile product.

Let us briefly look into the common sources of inspiration that leads to amazing, innovative and

exciting textile designs.

Nature

Man-made objects

Combination of nature and man-made objects

Design by other designers

Nature and natural surroundings always inspire creative professionals and textile designer in one of

them. First a designer can literally recreate nature on textile, and second, he/she can pick-up

elements that visually appear interesting and pleasing to eye, and give them a new look to design a

textile piece. For example, leaves, flowers, creepers, plants, trees, sand, water waves, animals and

animal skins etc.

It is observed that using inspirational elements from nature leads to creating more original designs

and any other form of inspiration.

Man-made objects are referred to the objects or articles made by man to fulfill a specific purpose.

These objects are usually created after proper planning and calculation using shapes and forms

±

±

±

±

4.5.1 Nature

4.5.2 Man-made objects

Natural Object


55

derived from geometry. The man-made objects are ubiquitous in the real world and in virtual

environments. For example, a sewing-needle, writing pen, tooth-brush, spoon, chair, phone, bicycle,

car, building, bridges etc. While taking inspiration from man-made objects a designer must be

careful so that the new design for textile does not look a replica or copy of the object made by

someone else.

Some designers prefer to combine elements of nature and man-made objects together to create a

new interesting design or design pattern, such combinations are mainly done because of the

requirement of a design brief, and to break the monotony from regular design process and designs.

The combinations do bring contracting elements and proportions together to form one rhythmic

pleasing design.

4.5.3 Combinations

Man-made object

Combinations


56

4.5.4 Designs by other designers

A designer often get inspired by the works of other creative professionals, it may be a senior or a

master designer, great artist and architects, or historic traditional crafts of unknown creators.

Many a times textile pieces are created by referring and using elements of traditional classical

designs of tapestries and architectural patterns and carvings. A designer must take precaution

while creating new design using such existing form of inspiration, as it should not become merely a

copy of someone else's creation. Directly applying someone else's design or art work is also referred

as reproduction or copy with nothing new in it, therefore will not be appreciated as a good design.

There are occasion when a design brief specifically require copy and reproduction of some existing

master piece, but then it is only a skillful application to translate truly to the original. Ethical

practices must be followed while using others creation as inspiration for new design.

This chapter explains the practical application of elements of design in textile design. Motif and

form are one of the basic units of any textile design. A motif is a main element which should be

innovative in order to bring newness to the design ideas developed by the designer. In section 4.1,

various creative methods are discussed for the development process of motif and forms. Pattern

and basic repeat are the primary and essential part of any textile design as most of the designs in

textiles are based on repeats (applicable to woven, embroidered, knits and printed textiles. This

sub unit explains the basic understanding of a repeat and types of repeats used in textile design.

Apart from various repeats textile designers should be aware of the popular design layouts and

placements of design elements as explained in the subunit under section 4.3. As explained in

section 4.4, colours play an important role in any design and enhance the look and appeal of

SUMMARY

Digital Print design (by - Charles Evans) Nature inspired (by - Ellie Curtis)


57

textile products. A textile design becomes extremely desirable if presented in the right

combination of colours; a design available in various colour options provides the variety factor

and enhances the possibilities of likeness by people of different taste and preferences. The source

of inspiration in design comes from various sources as explained in section 4.5. This chapter aims

towards enabling the student to handle elementary stages of a design process. The teaching

methodology follows a fine mix of theory, visual explanation and practical learning through

process based assignments in the classroom.

1. Take an A3 size mount-board or card-paper to create an expression board/chart placing and

arranging 12 to 16 natural objects sourced from the nature. For example, dry-leaves, broken

barks of trees, dry stem of a plant, small piece of a rock, pebble, shell, etc.


arranging 12 to 16 man-made objects sourced from the surroundings around your home, or

in home, office etc. For example, old tooth-brush, safety-pin, writing pen, part of broken

phone or tea-cup, electric switch, metal screw, etc.

3. Take an A3 size mount-board or card-paper to create an expression board/chart based on a

theme or story by placing and arranging 6 to 8 natural and another 6 to 8 man-made object

sourced from the surrounding around. As per your theme give a suitable title to board.

4. Create a composition each on an A3 size mount-board or card-paper by placing and

arranging 6 to 10 visuals of following:

a) a traditional Indian handicraft

b) works of two or three famous India painters or architects (Note: for both the above you

can get the visuals/pictures from magazines/newspaper etc.).

EXERCISE


Design for various types of

Textiles

UNIT 4


Chapter 5

5. Design for woven textiles

Woven fabrics are the most widely used fabrics. By carefully looking into the structure

and method of interlacement of yarns in a fabric one can differentiate between a woven

or knitted fabric.

In this chapter we will learn about the types of woven fabrics available.

interlacing each other at 90 degrees angle. There are two set of yarns, one in vertical axis referred as

warp, and the other at horizontal axis referred as weft. Warp runs along the length and weft along

the width of a fabric. Different manipulations in interlacing warp and weft yarns will create various

patterns and designs, these patterns will also depend on the mechanisms and methods used. Based

on the methods used for weaving, woven fabrics can be categorized in various types.

Let us now try to understand various types of woven fabrics as following.

1. Handloom fabrics: Woven fabrics are generally classified as per woven design or structures,

where plain weave is the most common and simplest of all. The fabrics which are woven on

handlooms are called handloom woven fabrics. The process of making a handloom fabric is

generally slow, however beautiful and intricate work is also achieved on handlooms in India in

form of traditional saris.

Handloom fabric

Woven Fabrics

Types of Woven Fabrics

59

Design for Woven Textiles


60

2. Dobby fabrics: Dobby is a complex mechanism; beautiful geometric and simple organic

designs can be made using this mechanism. A dobby can be hand operated on handloom or

power on power-loom.

Dobby fabric

3. Jacquard fabrics: Finer and intricate designs can be created by complex interlacement of

yarns on a jacquard loom. Jacquard is basically the name of a mechanism which highly

complex and is able to control threads during weaving to a one on one basis. Looms fitted with

this mechanism are called Jacquard looms. Jacquard fabrics are very popular for upholsteries

(sofa cover etc.), shawls and pallau design of saris.

(Image on the left - http://www.made-from-india.com/showroom/krishna-technofab/

products/Jacquard-Fabrics-_85747.html)

4. Pile fabrics: All fabrics which have protruding threads from surface are called piled fabrics,

for example - towels, velvet etc. Pile fabrics have an extra set of yarns to form loops, and may be

cut or uncut. Piles add bulk and weight to fabric and the cut pile fabrics such as velvets are

used for luxurious products.


61

Terry towel

Narrow width fabrics: Ribbons and tapes are narrow width fabrics which are woven on

different looms. There fabrics/tapes/ribbons are used for embellishment purpose.

Narrow-width fabric

This chapter is an introduction to the woven fabrics and the type of woven fabrics broadly

available as per the technique of weaving. Weaving is one of the basic techniques in making of

textiles as even the printed textiles need some base such as woven or knitted. The chapter

discusses the important attributes about hand loom woven fabrics, dobby and jacquard fabrics,

pile and narrow width fabrics. The chapter although is theory based incorporates visual

references and actual fabric swatch references in order to enhance the learning of a student

towards the various types of popular woven textiles.

SUMMARY


62

EXERCISE

1. Write short notes on the following with examples (60 -80 words):

a) Pile fabrics

b) Handloom fabrics

c) Dobby fabrics

d) Narrow width fabrics

e) Jacquard fabrics

2. Match the following:

Dobby towels

Pile jacquard

Ribbon simple geometric patterns

Intricate designs narrow fabric


Chapter 6

6. Introduction to knitting

Knitting is a very old practice of manufacturing fabric by intermeshing loops. Unlike

woven fabrics (interlacement of two set of yarns lying in perpendicular direction),

knitted fabrics are produced by interlocking loops with the help of needle / needles.

During the process a new loop is stitched through the old loop. The fabric consist loops

along the longitudinal direction known as wales and along the traverse direction

known as courses.

The presence of loops, make knitted fabrics highly stretchable, comfortable and mouldable to fit

body shapes. Knits are very flexible in terms of its use / applications. They are widely used for

summer wear, winter wear and sportswear. The high porous structure makes the knit fabric

permeable and more breathable that makes it comfortable to wear in summer. Winter wear knits are

usually made thick to increase the thermal insulation and the pours in the fabric traps air that

retain heat and keeps the body warm. The high stretch ability helps a sportsman to twist his body

with ease. However, incomplete elastic recovery gives rise to "bagging" at knees and elbows.

Knitted products are popular and are one of the most emerging fields in fashion and apparel

industry. The knitting was found practiced before 250 AD. Earliest type of knitting known as "Arabic

Knitting" was carried out in North Africa and is introduced in Europe by Arabs. It was William Lee

with his brother James Lee who produced the first knitting machine in 1589 in England.

63

Introduction to Knitting


64

SUMMARY

This chapter is a basic introduction to the knit fabrics. In today's world knits are as popular as

woven fabrics and knitting industry is growing day by day. Textile design professionals need to

understand the knits as well in order to enhance the sphere of their knowledge. The chapter

although is theory based incorporates visual references in order to make the student understand

about the knitted textiles.

1. Fill in the blanks:-

a) Knitting is produced by ____________ of loops.

b) Knitted fabric ________ stretch ability and comfort properties due to its unique

structure.

c) _________________ invented the first knitting machine in England in year 1589.

d) In knitted fabric, the loops along the longitudinal direction are known as ___________,

and along the transverse direction are known as ____________.

Keys:

a) Intermeshing

b) Possess high

c) William Lee and James Lee

d) Wales, Courses

EXERCISE


Chapter 7

7. Design for printed textiles

7.1 Method of Printing

Whenever we visit markets and see fabrics with beautiful design with floral, geometric,

mixed patterns and many other design patterns in single or multi colour, go close, and

touch and observe a fabric. Look at this fabric from front and back both sides, if you see

the design on the fabric is created through colour application creating definite shapes

on side more prominent and fresher, the design is most likely a printed fabric.

In this chapter we will learn about various types of printed textiles and various designs and related

terminology.

In order to understand printed textiles we need to know that how many types of printing techniques

are available, and accordingly the design for printed textiles could be understood. The types of

printed textiles can be understood in three ways.

1. Printing techniques and methods.

2. Chemicals and technologies used in printing

3. Various design attributes

i. Hand block printed textiles

ii. Screen printed textiles (by hand and machine)

iii. Mill printed textiles (using high speed automatic printing machines)

iv. Digital and transfer printed textiles.

i. Hand Block printed textiles: This type of printing method is ancient and still a very

popular form of textile. India is known for its traditional hand block printed textiles. In

this method a fabric is stretched on the padded tables, colour is first applied on design

engraved wooden block and then this wooden block is stamped on to the fabric, resulting

There are four popular methods of printing textiles, they are

65

Design for Printed Textiles


66

transfer of design impression through the colour on wooden-block. Each wooden block is

designed in a way so the design fits exactly into the next. To identify this textile you

should look at the detailing of the designs, there could be some kind of slight imperfection

in thickness and matching of lines, this is due to the hand printing where the pressure

while stamping the block get varied. This also defines the character of block printing

technique and creates beautiful fabrics.

Hand block printing

ii. Screen printed textiles: This method of printing is done on padded tables; fine

perforated fabric mesh or screen is stretched and fixed on square or rectangular metal (or

wooden) frame. In comparison to block printing, here designs with bigger repeat size can

be achieved and the printing production of a fabric is faster. Screen printing also gives

fine interacted designs, and is popular for small production.

iii. Mill printed textiles: Mills produce a large quantity of printed textiles; the printing is

done using cylindrical drums with fine mesh on the circumference of the cylinder, this is

called rotary printing method. The fabrics produced through this method are usually of

fine quality, with possibility of several kinds of finishes applied after printing. The

printing is accurate and long lasting due to highly controlled mechanized environment in

a factory. Pigment colours are directly printed on a light ground or white fabric. This is

one of the cheapest and simplest printing techniques as compared to others.

iv. Digital and Transfer printed textiles: All the above mentioned textiles are achieved

through a certain number of colours, whereas in transfer or digital printing technique

almost any design with any number of colours can be printed. Where ever you see a

photographic prints looking like an actual photograph, then consider it to be a digital

printed fabric. For transfer printing first the design prints are done on a special paper

and then the same design is transferred on the desired fabric. Mostly T-shirts,


67

customised home linen and big banners are done using transfer or digital printing

technique.

http://www.designersguild.com/fabric-and-wallpaper-showroom/view-all-collections/sofienberg-

fabrics/mariedal/mariedal---peony/#.UP9vtfLCdsY

i. Pigment printing: Pigment colours are directly printed on a light ground or white

fabric. In this printing, the pigment dye is directly applied on to the surface of fabric;

pigment colours form a colour layer on the surface of fabric producing a desired pattern

through colours. This is the cheapest and simplest printing technique as compared to

discharge and reactive.

ii. Discharge: In this technique the fabric is dyed in dark colours first, thereafter

chemicals are used to remove dark colours from certain surface areas of a fabric, and then

light colours are printed in desired design/pattern. Discharge is more expensive than the

pigment, as two techniques (dyeing and printing) are used to create desired finished

designs. When a design has a dark colour background in a larger area, and small portions

of light colours are printed in other areas, this technique is preferred especially for

apparel.

iii. Reactive: In this process chemicals and colours react with each other to create a

particular color.

7.2 Chemicals and Technologies used in printing


68

7.3 Print Design Technology

Various print design attributes and terminology

There are various types of print designs and related terminologies associated to them are vast.

Let us discuss about some important and popular designs.

a) Floral prints: Beautiful flowers are the main attribute of these print designs. Floral

prints are timeless and appreciated in every country and class.

b) Geometric prints: The prints having geometric elements are called geometric prints

for example simple dots are called 'polka' dots and simple lines are called 'stripes'. When

lines intersect each other at 90 degrees such prints are called 'checks'.

c) Abstract prints: The symbolic way of representing a flower or any other element that

visually does not associate with normal is called abstract. The abstract prints are also

referred as the modern prints of all.

d) Conversational prints: Any element of design which conveys or communicates some

direct message is called a conversation prints. For example sport activities, animals, faces

or flying airplanes, etc. Today conversational prints are extremely popular category

among kids, for example, popular cartoon characters.

e) Ethnic prints: Print designs related to any particular region or culture or traditions are

called ethnic prints. For example, Indian paisley prints are ethnic because, it is believed

that their origin could be in Asian Persian region.

Pigment printed fabric Discharge printed fabric


69

SUMMARY

This chapter explains the design terminologies related to printed textiles. There are various

types of textiles available as per printing techniques and methods of printing. In order to

understand the design aspect of printed textiles one needs to understand methods and

techniques related to printing, such as screen printing, block printing, rotary and digital

printing etc. This understanding leads to development of a greater capacity and better

understanding of design. The chapter although is theory based incorporates visual references

and actual swatch references and certain practical assignment in order to enhance the learning

for printed textiles.

1. Write short notes on the following (60-80 words):

a) Difference between discharge and pigment printing

b) Indian Block printed fabrics

c) Digital printing

d) Rotary printed textiles

e) Screen printed textiles

2. Tick mark on the correct combination of interrelated words:

White background Pigment printing

Discharge prints Small flowers

Transfer printing T Shirts

Photographic prints Pigment prints

Natural looking flowers Digital printing

Imperfection in joining of lines Hand Block printing

3. Mark the statements by true or false:

a) Conversation prints have the power to speak in any language.

b) Cartoon characters can be considered geometric prints also.

c) Floral prints are specific to any region.

d) Ethnic prints can be understood by understanding the related culture of a particular

region.

e) Abstract prints are obsolete.

EXERCISE


Chapter 8

8. Design by resist dyeing of textiles

Resist is a traditional method of textile design. In this technique certain areas of fabric

or yarn is resisted and further dyed. The tie and dye technique creates interesting

results on fabric. The method of tie and colour combinations play an important role in

this technique.

In this chapter we will learn about different types of resist techniques practiced in the field of textile

design.

The resist technique is one of the oldest and prevalent in many civilizations.

The fabric or threads are resisted first in a desired order to create patterns; afterwards the fabric is

dyed, thus resulting in beautiful patterns in the resisted areas. Dyeing is always done in order of

light to dark colours to achieve a resist pattern in more than two colours.

The resist techniques can be broadly classified in the following segments as per the resist methods.

1. Resisting the yarns (warp and weft - Ikat)

2. Tie and dye - (Bandhni)

3. Wax resist - (Batik)

4. Resist through folding and stitching - (Shibori)

5. Resist through clamping technique -(Jiaxie)

6. Resisting the yarns (Ikat): In this technique yarns of warp or weft or both are tied using

threads in a very calculated pattern method. Thereafter the set of tied warp or weft is dyed in

desired colours. The dye colour does not penetrate the tied areas of yarns therefore leaving it in

the original colour of the yarn. When placed on the loom and woven this creates a subtle and

inconsistent outline of motifs or patterns. It is not possible to achieve a design with sharp

outlines on a fabric in this technique. Ikats are of three types; warp ikat, weft ikat and double

ikat. When warp and weft both yarns are tied and dyed it is called double Ikat. In India, the

state of Andhra Pradesh, Orissa and Gujarat are well known for Ikat fabrics.Orissa has a fine

70

Design by Dyeing Textiles


71

variety of ikatsarees called 'patola' or 'sambhalpuri'. 'Pochampally'sari is a double Ikat textile

from a small village in Nalagonda district of Andhra Pradesh, and is popular by the name of the

village itself. Kasuri is a style of Indonesian ikat, it employs extreme accuracy.

Tie and Dye (Bandhni): This technique is used on fabric instead of yarns. The fabric is tied

in certain patterns using threads. Sometimes small beads or food grains are used in the tied

areas to get different circular shapes. After the tying is done tightly and properly, the fabric is

taken for dyeing. The dye does not penetrate the resisted tied areas; after the dyeing is done

fabric is dried under sun. The resist tied yarns are opened to get the beautiful patterns on the

surface of a fabric. This technique is extensively used in India, where it is known as 'bandhani'.

This technique is practiced in Gujarat and Rajasthan regions of India. The products are sold

without removing the tied threads on fabric to let people believe the authenticity of the hand

technique.

Tie-dyed yarn Ikat - fabric with tie-dyed yarn

Bandhani


72

7. Batik: Batik is a wax resist technique. Wax is applied through brush or wooden blocks to resist

the design form on fabric. The dyeing is done using cold Naphtol dyes in order to protect wax

resist area. Bees wax is used for smoother results and paraffin wax is used to introduce more

cracks in design. After dyeing the fabric is boiled in water to remove the wax. Thereafter fabric

is dyed to get a beautiful batik pattern.

Batik

This technique is called Batik in Java where wax is used and called 'Tsutsugaki' in Japan where

rice paste is used as a resist material.

8. Resist through folding and stitching (Shibori): Shibori is one of the popular techniques

of Japanese textiles. In this technique fabric is tightly folded and stitched, twisted and

compressed to achieve fine patterns. Due to the various methods combined and used, the

results are often very unique. In this technique the type of fabrics used for resist also affects

the end result of design.

9. Clamp technique (Jiaxie): This technique involves fabric folding and then using a carved

wooden design shape as the main resist. These wooden resists are always two identical pieces

because it is placed on both sides of the fabric. These two blocks are then held together with a

clamp. Just like other resist techniques fabric is taken for dyeing, and afterwards clamps are

removed to get desired patterns. 'Jiaxie' is one of the old clamp resist techniques practiced in

some places of China.


73

Resist by folding

There are various methods used to create beautiful surface patterns by resisting certain areas of

fabric and further by dyeing it in desired colours. The techniques are ancient and still in

demand. This chapter explains various methods of resisting the fabric such as Ikat, tie and dye of

fabric, clamping methods, Japanese Shibori, Batik etc. The main purpose is to understand

various techniques of resist dyeing and its application in textile design. Teaching methodology

for this course involves lecture, visual and swatch reference followed by practical assignments

for enhanced learning.

1. Write short notes on the following (60-80 words).

a) Shibori b) Indian Ikat

c) Resist dyeing techniques d) Batik

e) Bhandhni

2. Tick mark on the correct combination of interrelated words.

Bhandhni Rajasthan

Ikat Indonesia

Bees wax Softer and lesser cracks

Shibori Iran

Fabric Folding Batik

SUMMARY

EXERCISE


Chapter 9

9. Surface embellishment on textiles

The embellishment on fabric makes it attractive. There are various popular techniques

practiced in handicrafts, cottage and small-scale industry for enhancing the look of

fabric surfaces.

In this chapter let us explore various techniques used for surface embellishment of fabric.

Fabric manipulation techniques are extremely popular in textile and fashion, and considered as

value addition to any textile product.

There are few popular methods of surface embellishments on textiles:

1. Embroidery

2. Appliqué

3. Patch work

4. Fabric gathering

5. Smocking

6. Fabric folding, Pleating and Tucks

7. Thread Pulling techniques

Embroideries are among the most popular technique for fabric embellishment

created on a fabric using needle and thread, and other materials such as beads, ribbons,

metallic threads etc. There are two types of embroideries - hand and machine. Hand

embroideries are considered premium in comparison to machine embroideries. Hand

embroideries are diversified as per regions. India is known for exquisite embroideries such as

U.P. (Lucknow) for Chikankari embroidery, Banaras for Zardozi embroidery, Gujarat for

mirror embroidery and West Bengal for Kantha embroidery. Now a day's embroidery is also

carried out on computerized machines.

1. Embroidery:

74

Surface Ornamentation and Embellishments


75

Hand embroidery

A fabric piece in a particular shape or pattern is cut and applied on the surface of

another fabric, and edges of the fabric applied are stitched or embroidered for the finishing in

the appliqué technique.

Applique

Two or more than two fabrics of various shapes and sizes are attached using

stitching technique in patchwork. Patchwork technique is very popular for making bed covers

and quilts. Patchwork is done in various styles based on the shapes created.

Patchwork

2. Appliqué:

3. Patchwork:


76

4. Fabric Gathering:

5. Smocking:

In this, first, a fabric is stitched through simple running stitch, thereafter

the thread is pulled to create gather in the fabric. This fabric gathering technique is used to

create frills and ruffles. This technique is widely used in home furnishing and garments, this

adds volumes to any garment, and beautiful details on the surface and edges of textile

products.

Smocking is a modified version of fabric gathering. Smocking consumes a lot of

fabric due to the close gathering techniques used. Smocking is of many types; the most popular

ones are:

1. English Smocking: Fabric is pulled very closely forming rows of small gathers and

further embellished using hand embroideries. French knots, back stitch and cross

stitches are the popular embroidery stitches used for decorating English smocking. This

also creates some amount of stretch-ability in a fabric due to gathers created in one

direction. This technique is very popular for kids-wear and ladies garments.

English Smocking

2. Canadian Smocking: Square blocks are drawn on a fabric, and then the fabric is

stitched and pulled in a particular pattern. Fabric pulling in following different patterns

gives different results and creates interesting three dimensional effects on a fabric

surface. This technique is also called lattice smocking. This technique is very popular in

home furnishings (cushion covers) and apparel products (ladies tops).


77

Canadian Smocking

There are various methods of fabric folding such as pleating and

tucking. These fabric techniques are timeless classics. The most common of these are pleated

skirts for school dresses.

(http://tonianneeveritt.blogspot.in/2012/11/pleated-fabric-ciment-pleaters-in-london.html)

Threads can be pulled to create beautiful perforations in a

fabric. Thread pulling is done very carefully on the fabric by counting each thread to avoid the

fabric from getting spoiled.

(http://www.needlenthread.com/2009/02/tutorial-coral-knot-in-drawn-thread.html)

6. Fabric folding techniques:

7. Thread pulling techniques:


78

SUMMARY

This chapter aims towards developing understanding for various types of embellishment

techniques on textiles. The students need to see various visuals in order to understand the

techniques. This chapter is an introduction to several fabric surface embellishment techniques

used prominently in the field of textile design such as, Embroidery, Appliqué, patchwork,

Thread Pulling techniques, different types of smocking, folding, pleating, tucks and gathering.

This will also require showing some actual fabrics for embroidery; smocking and other

techniques. Technique like pleating can be explained by paper folding as well. This enables the

students to handle the hand needle along with fabric surface manipulations to achieve creative

solutions for surface embellishments.

1. Write short notes about following:

a) Difference between hand and machine embroidery

b) Mirror embroidery

c) Appliqué

d) The purpose of Surface embellishment in textiles

e) Smocking

2. Match the surface embellishments techniques with the achievable look on fabric:

Pleats Embroidery

Zardosi Thread pulling technique

Smocking Lucknow

Perforations Lattice

Chikankari School dress skirts

3. Collect different fabric swatches from market: 3" x 3" inches in size. Paste them

on one A2 size sheet and prepare a chart by labeling them.

EXERCISE


Chapter 10

10. Presentations for design and professional practices

The design filed is mostly service oriented along-with creativity, and textile design is no exception.

The designers need to take care of their client's preferences, requirements and market trends.

In this chapter we will discover the professional practices most commonly found in the field of textile

design. It can be understood in various steps.

In this section a designer needs to

prepare detailed curriculum vitae (professional information about skills, work experience and

personal information about the name, contact details etc.).

Understanding what a client needs and why do they need it, is

the most crucial part. Each market is different and so is each client. The basic outline of the

purpose of design, deadline, amount and nature of work etc. is defined in client's brief.

Assessing the goals is the next step, as one needs to estimate the amount of

time, man power and efforts required to complete a design project, based on which a designer's

brief is prepared by designer and submitted to client.

Based on the facts from both parties i.e., client and designer, a design

agreement is prepared and signed by both parties. The design agreements involve many

clauses such as the designer will keep the designs discreet until the products are launched in

market. It also contains the payment terms; this could be on hourly or daily basis, it could be

an annual agreement or retainer-ship which is equivalent to a full time employment for a

certain period.

The design ideas are created keeping the

client's brief in mind. The designs are supported by correct colours, appropriate

fabrics/materials and detailed technical specifications.

Designs are presented to the client and client

feedback is incorporated by designer in terms of modifications.

a) Approaching a client for textile design work/project:

b) Client brief understanding:

c) Assessing Goals:

d) Design agreement:

e) Application of creativity in a defined context:

f) Design presentation and client's feedback:

79

Presentation of Design and Professional Practices


80

g) Design submission:

h) Copyright and other legal considerations:

i) Submission, invoicing and payments:

Initial and final designs are submitted to client in the required format

such as CD or DVD for soft copies, actual size print outs, fabric swatches and other material

boards along with technical specification sheets.

Designs are created keeping all the legal

considerations in mind, for example copy right - it is the exclusive rights provided to the

creator of an original work, generally for a limited time period. Designers can keep the rights

with them and ask for a royalty that is a certain fee decided for each piece. The royalty

multiplies as the larger number of pieces are produced or sold depending on the agreement.

After the submission is done invoice is raised for

billing and submitted to client for final payment release. Sometimes designers work in

advance payment system, where some amount of charges are taken before starting the design

work and rest of the percentage is charged at different stages or at the end of the design

project.

This chapter explains the professional practices in the textile industry. Textile designers need to

work very closely in association with their client and work step by step based on a client

presentation and feedback process. This is an integral part of the textile design field and is

necessary to understand to get an overview of the working system. This chapter explains about

various important terminology related to work such as -client brief, design agreement, copy

rights and other legal considerations, design submissions, invoicing etc. Teaching methodology

for this chapter incorporates lectures as well as practical professional presentation mock

demonstrations by involving students to enhance the overall learning.

1. Write short notes about following:

a) Copyright

b) Client Feedback

c) Design Agreement

d) Freelance

e) Approaching a client

SUMMARY

EXERCISE


81

2. Mark the correct co related words:

Payment Invoice

Submission Deadline

Design Brief Design concepts

Design submission Copyright

Retainer-ship Freelance


82

±

±

±

±

±

±

±

±

±

±

±

±

±

±

±

±

±

±

±

Agreement: Harmony or accordance in opinion or feeling; a position or result of

agreeing.

Automated: To control or operate by automation/self-driven

B.C: Before Christ

Clamp: A brace, band or clasp for holding to things together

Culture: The arts and other manifestations of human intellectual achievement

regarded collectively.

Defined context: The circumstances in which an event occurs; a setting.

Design: A plan or drawing produced to show the look and function of a surface or

garment, or other object before it is made/produced.

Emphasis: Importance

Environment: Surroundings

Ethnic: Belonging to a particular population or sub group possessing certain

cultural characteristics.

Excavations: The action of excavating something, esp. an archaeological site.

Export: Send (goods or services) to another country for sale.

Fabric: Cloth

Feedback: Information about the reactions of a task or product.

Forecast: Prediction of future trends

Form: The visible shape or configuration of anything

Geometric: Related to geometrical shapes.

Interior: Inside areas of any building or house.

Linen: A fabric obtained from flax fiber.

Glossary


83

±

±

±

±

±

±

±

±

±

±

±

±

±

±

±

±

±

±

±

±

Metamorphosis: The process of transformation

Motif: A decorative design element

Natural: Coming from nature/derived from nature

Ornamental: Decorative

Perforation: A hole made by boring or piercing

Primitive: An early stage in history

Remnants: A small remaining quantity of something.

Revolution: A sudden change through the force of society regarding an important

issue.

Silk: A fine, strong, soft, lustrous fiber produced by silkworms in making

cocoons and collected to make thread and fabric.

Spinning: The action or process of converting fibers into thread or yarn.

Stabilized: Make or become stable

Staggered: Unsteadily

Stylized: Depict or treat in a mannered and nonrealistic style.

Technology: The application of scientific knowledge for practical purposes especially in

industry.

Textile: Cloth/fabric.

Texture: The feel, appearance of any surface.

Theme: Topic or thought

Trade: The action of buying and selling goods and services.

Trends: A general direction in which something is developing or changing.

Yarn: Spun thread used for knitting, weaving, or sewing.


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Chapter 6 of Unit -IV: Compiled by Mr. Prithwiraj Mal, Assistant Professor at Knitwear

Design department in NIFT Hyderabad.

Illustrations in chapter 1.4 of Unit-I: Works of Mr. Divya Sisodiya of Textile Design

department at NIFT Hyderabad, batch 2010-14.

The Trend Forecast boards of Spring/Summer 2014 in chapter 2.4 of Unit-II: Ms

Rutuja S. Mahajan and Lavanya Mittimani of Knitwear Design department at NIFT

Hyderabad, batch 2010-14.

Illustrations in Unit - II and III: Mr. Shashank Shandilya of Textile Design department at

NIFT Hyderabad, batch 2010-14.

The Inspiration board in chapter 4.4 of Unit-III: Ms. Ankita Gupta of Textile Design

department at NIFT Hyderabad, batch 2010-14 and Anand Singh of Knitwear Design

department at NIFT Hyderabad, batch 2010-14.

Fabric swatches of 'Bandhani', 'Batik' and 'Resist by folding' in chapter 8 of Unit-IV, and

swatches of 'Applique' and 'Smocking' in chapter 9 of Unit-IV: Ms. Vinita Kumari and Ms.

Ankita Gupta of Textile Design department, NIFT Hyderabad, batch 2010-14.

The images used in this book with the references of respective website are from free sources.

All the other images/photographs are by Prof. Anupam Jain.

Book cover is designed by Mr. Nitin Shekhar of Fashion Communication Design department at

NIFT Hyderabad, batch 2010-14.

Credits

Elements of

Textile DesignPractical Manual


ContentsUnit – I: Introduction to Textile Industry

Practical 1: 87

Understanding textiles from various perspectives.

Practical 2: 88

To understand textile design profession, role and responsibilities

of textile designer

Practical 3: 89

To understand basic language of design and the important terms

associated with it.

Practical 4: 92

Practical application of elements of design in textile design

Practical 5: 96

To understand woven fabric, the type of woven fabrics available

as per the technique of weaving.

Practical 6: 97

To introduce knitted fabrics.

Practical 7: 98

To understand design terminologies related to printed textiles

Practical 8: 101

To learn various methods of resisting the fabric and its application

in textile design.

Practical 9: 104

To develop understanding for various types of embellishment

techniques on textiles.

Practical 10: 109

To understand the Textile designers professional practices

2

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Objective:

Classroom Equipments:

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Understanding textiles from various perspectives.

Study of historical developments through major events.

Overview of Textile Industry, the various sectors of industry and the interrelated industries

Understanding Textile design as a profession.

Lab requirement for a batch of 30 students:

Material and equipments.

For Chapter 1 (1.1, 1.2, 1.3, and 1.4) no laboratory practical assignments are assigned since these

sub units are theory based. Study material and teaching methodology needs to be followed as

provided in chapters and teacher's manual; however some class room equipments could be used to

enhance students learning experience.

1. Projector or KIAN - One

2. White Screen of approximately 6 x 6 feet - One

3. Proper electricity connection.

4. Pen drive of approximately 2GB capacity - One

The cost of the equipment depends on the local or international brands purchased

Please note the pen drive is required to save images, videos or presentations and attached

to the KIAN to have a full screen mode audio visual presentation.

The pen drive can be used by teachers to save images and bring to the class for audio visual

references.

The answer key is enclosed in the teacher's manual for the written exercises to be

conducted in the class room and answer sheets to be checked.

Museum visits as a practical experience: Apart from the lectures, student visits can be organized to

nearby museums (textile related). A museum visit will give student a clear insight in Textile history.

Practical 1


88

Practical 2Objective:

Classroom Equipment:

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To understand textile design profession, role and responsibilities of textile designer and

various aspects of work, time planning and trend studies broadly followed in textile design

industry.

To understand areas which are design specific.

To understand work and responsibilities of a textile designer

Methodology apart from lectures: Apart from lectures audio visual references such as magazines,

books, movies etc. should be shown to students for better understanding of the subject.


For Chapter 2 (2.1, 2.2, 2.3, and 2.4) no laboratory practical assignments are assigned since these

sub units are theory based. Study material and teaching methodology needs to be followed as

provided in chapters and teachers manual; however some class room equipment could be used to

enhance the learning experience for the students.








The pen drive can be used by teachers to save images and bring to the class for audio

visual references.




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To understand basic language of design and the important terms associated with it.

To understand basic principles associated with design

To understand elements of design and principles on which the design is based.

To understand balance, movement, repetition, emphasis, contrast and unity.

To explain various aspects to get familiar with design basics which will further enable

students to design with rational thinking

Application of design principles

For this chapter, no laboratory practical assignments are required since the practical assignments

can be carried out in class room itself. The study material and teaching methodology needs to be

followed as provided in chapters and teachers manual; however some class room equipment could be

used to enhance the learning experience for the students.








references.

The answer key is mentioned below for the written exercises to be conducted in the class

room and answer sheets to be checked.



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Assignments

Methodology and Additional activities apart from the audio visual lecture:

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In order to achieve better understanding a couple of objects should be shown to students

describing the principle and elements of designs

Students should be asked to work on all exercises in the class using innovative ideas. The

students can work out various ideas and the best ideas should be taken forward in the final

assignment on paper. Students should be explained and partly demonstrated some exercises of

the subject well before explaining the assignment. The exercise should be carried out in the

class in teacher's presence, and some finishing work could be done at home.

Students should use the coarse side of paper for drawing the compositions. First the

compositions should be planned in pencil and discussed with teacher for guidance. Once

approved students should go ahead and finalize the compositions using brush and poster

colour.

1. Draw square format of 8" x 8" inches in black line on white paper, use a minimum of 7 to 15 lines

in black along with different shapes, forms and textures, and represent two examples each of

following: a) Symmetric balance b) Asymmetric balance c) Repetition d) Movement e)

Contrast.

2. Draw square format of 8" x 8" inches in black line on white paper back ground, using water base

colours (poster colours) represent one example each of following:

a) Create a composition representing 'Movement' using four different shapes of 1 ½" x 1 ½"

inch (approx.) and fill them in four different colours.

b) Create a composition representing 'Emphasis' using three different shapes of 2"x 2"

inches (approx.) and fill them in three different colours.

Take an A3 size sheet and make lay out first using pencil and scale as shown below an example for

the same. As a next step students should plan the composition as per the assignment. This basic

planning should be discussed with the teacher in case of any clarification and should be approved by

teacher before going ahead with final composition.

No specific material is required by teacher, however students would require

1. A3 sheet (cartridge or buff) - off white or white color

Exercises:

Method:

Materials:


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2. Pencil

3. Brushes - sizes: 0, 1, 3, 5 etc.

4. Black poster color

5. Black pen or fine tip marker or Black micro tip pen

6. Any color medium, for example - poster colors, pencil colors, water colors etc.

Note: The right hand side square is 8 x 8 inches as mentioned in the assignment 1. Based on the

basic layout teacher can guide the students to create their own creative layouts for presenting the

compositions.

Students should write their name, topic and date on the sheet in right or left corner of the back/rear

side of paper in a simple and legible font. Only the topic should come on front side of paper.

Sample Layout on A3 sheet

Name

Subject

Class

Date

Assignment

.............................

.............................

.............................

.............................

.............................

.............................

Description

.............................

.............................

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Teacher's Sign


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Exercises: (4.1)

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Practical application of elements of design in textile design.

To learn motif development, repeats and pattern

Methodology and Additional activities apart from the audio visual lecture: In order to achieve better

understanding of the various topics related to chapter 4 and subunits teachers need to show

different fabrics and design layouts. Teachers should also show a design in different colours to

explain the meaning of colourways.

A lab would require certain material and equipment in order to conduct the practical successfully.

For this chapter, no laboratory practical assignments are required since the practical assignments

can be carried out in class room itself. The study material and teaching methodology needs to be











visual references.

1. Take any three natural beings, create sketches in black and white in pencil on A3 sheets and

generate one motif through metamorphosis process on A3 sheet.


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2. Take any man made or natural object - and sketch it in its own original form on A3 sheet.

Create 3 geometric and 3 ornamental style forms inspired from it on A3 size sheet (3 motifs on

one sheet).

3. Choose any topic and create an A3 size theme board. Create 4 motifs of 6x6 inch size taking

inspiration from the theme board.

1. Draw square format of 12" x 12" inches in pencil on white paper, make a motif of 1 ½" x 1 ½ "

inch (approx.) in solid black or any one colour inspired from nature and use this motif 9 to 12

times to represent one examples each of following:

a) Straight repeat

b Half-drop repeat (vertical)

c) Brick - repeat (horizontal)

d) Mirror repeat.

2. Draw square format of 12" x 12" inches in pencil on white paper, make a motif of 1 ½" x 1 ½ "

inch approx. inspired from man-made objects in two colours, repeat this shape 6 to 9 times to

represent two examples each of following:

a) Clock-wise rotate repeat

b) Half-drop vertical repeat

1. Draw square format of 8" x 8" inches in pencil on white paper, make a motif of 1" x 1" inch

(approx.) use this motif in different orientations and represent two examples each of

followings:

a) In black outline create an overall pattern surface.

b) In black outline create a border of 1 ½" width.

c) Create layout for a head-scarf using overall motif pattern and border.

2. a) Make a design for head scarf in 12" x 12" inches on white paper using for six colours. You

may use the pattern and layout from above exercise no.: 1.c).

b) Make two colour-ways of the above head-scarf design (in same size) create in above

exercise no.: 2.a).

Exercises: (4.2)

Exercises: (4.3 and 4.4)


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3. Make a design for sari in 15" x 9" inches (approx.) on white paper using four to eight colours,

using any motif of 1 ½" x 1 ½" inches (approx.) and a coordinated border of 2" inches width

(approx.), and a wider border as a 'pallau' of 5" inches width approx.


arranging 12 to 16 natural objects sourced from the nature. For example, dry-leaves, broken

barks of trees, dry stem of a plant, small piece of a rock, pebble, shell, etc.


arranging 12 to 16 man-made objects sourced from the surroundings around your home, or in

home, office etc. For example, old tooth-brush, safety-pin, writing pen, part of broken phone or

tea-cup, electric switch, metal screw, etc.

3. Take an A3 size mount-board or card-paper to create an expression board/chart based on a

theme or story by placing and arranging 6 to 8 natural and another 6 to 8 man-made object

sourced from the surrounding around. As per your theme give a suitable title to board.

4. Create a composition each on an A3 size mount-board or card-paper by placing and arranging 6

to 10 visuals of following: a) a traditional Indian handicraft b) works of two or three famous

India painters or architects (Note: for both the above you can get the visuals/pictures from

magazines/newspaper etc.).

Take an A3 or A2 size sheet and make lay out first using pencil and scale as shown below an example

for the same. As a next step students should make various motifs (3 to 5) as per the assignment.

These motifs should be discussed with the teacher and final motif should be approved by teacher

before going ahead with repeats.


1. A3 sheet or A2 (cartridge or buff)

2. Pencil

3. Brushes - sizes 0, 1, 3, 5 including round and flat brushes etc

4. Black pen or fine tip marker or Black micro tip pen

5. Any color mediums, for example - poster colors, pencil colors, water color etc.

Exercises: (4.4)

Method:

Materials:


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Sample Layout on A3 sheet

Note: Based on the basic layout teacher can guide the students to create their own creative layouts

for presenting the compositions.

The visual examples from chapters can be referred in order to complete the above mentioned

assignments.

The teachers should conduct the practical assignments in order to provide guidance to students.

Name

Subject

Class

Date

Assignment

.............................

.............................

.............................

.............................

.............................

.............................

Description

.............................

.............................

.............................

Teacher's Sign


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Exercise



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To understand woven fabric, the type of woven fabrics available as per the technique of

weaving.

In order to achieve better understanding of the woven fabrics teachers should show various woven

fabrics in the class room. If possible students can also be taken for visit to a nearby weaving unit.

- The exercises are written and answer key is provided along with teacher's manual for

assessments of the exercises.


For Chapter 5 no laboratory practical assignments are assigned since the sub chapters are theory

based and study material and teaching methodology needs to be followed as provided in chapters

and teachers manual; however some class room equipment could be used to enhance the learning

experience for the students.









references.




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Exercise -


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To introduce knitted fabrics.

In order to achieve better understanding of the knits, teacher should explain the students to observe

the t-shirts, socks, sweaters and other knits products to get a basic understanding of knitted fabric.

The exercises are written and answer key is provided along with teacher's manual for

assessments of the exercises.

For Chapter 6 no laboratory practical assignments are assigned since the sub chapters are theory

based and study material and teaching methodology needs to be followed as provided in chapters

and teachers manual; however some class room equipment could be used to enhance the learning

experience for the students.





The cost of the equipment depends on the local or international brands purchased)




visual references.




98




Exercise 4 (Practical)

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To understand design terminologies related to printed textiles.

To know printing methods & techniques.

In order to achieve better understanding a couple of printed fabric swatches need to be

sourced and shown to the students in the class.


For this chapter, no laboratory practical assignments are required since the practical assignment no

4 can be carried out in class room itself. The study material and teaching methodology needs to be











visual references.



Students should be asked to bring an off white or white A3 cartridge or buff sheet.


99

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Students should be explained to visit market or nearest tailor shop and bring small printed

fabric cuttings/swatches. Collect at least 6 different printed fabric swatches.

The fabrics should be properly cut into 3 x 3 inches and all the swatches should be placed on

A3 size papers leaving equal gaps.

Double-sided tape can be used for placing the fabric swatches on paper.

Each swatch should be labeled (written information).

Before explaining this assignment, students should be shown various swatches.

Students can also identify the number of colours used in printed textiles.

Take an A3 size sheet and make lay out first using pencil and scale as shown below an example for

the same. The zigzag edge of the fabrics can be obtained by using pinking shears.


1. A3 sheet (cartridge or buff)

2. Various printed fabrics - to be sourced from the market

3. Pencil

4. Scale

5. Double sided tape to stick fabrics

6. Pinking shears

7. Black pen or fine tip marker for writing

Method:

Materials:


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Sample Layout

More information can also be added - for example

1. Students can count the number of colors in a printed fabric

2. Students can identify the background color

3. Students should try to identify the type of fabric as per printing technique

Name

Subject

Class

Date

Assignment

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Teacher's Sign

Fabric 1

Pigment

printed

Fabric 3

Pigment printed

Dots design

Fabric 2

Pigment printed

Floral

Fabric 3

Pigment single

color

Fabric 4

Black & white

discharge print

Fabric 5

printed

cheque


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To learn various methods of resisting the fabric and its application in textile design.

Additional activities apart from the lecture through audio visual references. In order to achieve

better understanding a couple of fabric swatches need to be sourced and shown to the students in the

class. If it is possible, a visit to a nearby textile resist dyeing unit should be arranged. A couple of

techniques of tying fabric using thread should be demonstrated in classroom.


For this chapter, no laboratory practical assignments are required since the practical assignment no

4 can be carried out in class room itself. The study material and teaching methodology needs to be











visual references.



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102

Exercise:

Students should be asked to get the following material from local market

Cotton voile fabric - half meters to one meter,

50 to 100 grams direct dye in any dark color (such as blue or red and

Polyester thread for tying.

Any one basic technique of thread tying should be explained to students in the classroom.

Students can tie the fabric in different patterns.

Students should be clearly instructed to dye the fabric in presence of some one elderly.

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Students should be explained the method well and asked to write the instruction on a paper

which can be followed at home while doing the exercise.


1. Half meter 'mulmul' or voile fabric

2. 1 bobbin of Polyester thread in white color

3. Pencil

4. Scale

5. One stainless steel container approx. 2 liters capacity - used one

6. Direct dye - 2 table spoon (or more depending on the intensity and depth of color required)

Step 1: Make the marks for tying the fabric in desired pattern using pencil on voile fabric.

Step 2:

Take half meter cotton voile or 'mulmul' and tie design as shown below in the reference image

1.

Tie the fabric using polyester thread.

Ensure it is tight enough and knots are properly done to secure it.

Step 3: Mix the direct dye powder in water (should be sufficient for the fabric to soak properly) and

boil.

Materials:

Method:


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Step 4: Put the fabric in water and keep stirring for 5 to 10 minutes.

Step 5: Take out the fabric and wash in running water to remove excess dye/color.

Step 6: Keep it for drying.

Step 7: Once dried completely carefully open the tied area to see the beautiful pattern.

Important note: Ensure to use a stainless steel vessel at your home which is not used for cooking.

1 2

Source: http://diyfashion.about.com/od/diytops/ss/TieDye_3.htm (image 1)

Source: http://www.ehow.com/how_7579356_tie-dye-applying-different-patterns.html (image 2)

**More designs can be tried - for example

a) Students can use pulses to tie the fabric

b) Students can use various colors


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To develop understanding for various types of embellishment techniques on textiles.

In order to achieve better understanding a couple of embroidery techniques such as basic like

chain stitch, stem stitch, lazy daisy etc.

Basic gathering, patchwork and appliqué techniques can also be demonstrated.

Pleats can be explained using paper as a base material.

For the demonstration reference books mentioned in teachers manual are a good visual source.


For this chapter, no laboratory assignments are required since the practical assignment no 3 can be

carried out in class room itself. The study material and teaching methodology needs to be followed as

provided in chapters and teachers manual; however some class room equipment could be used to

enhance the learning experience and demonstration of the techniques.









visual references.


105

±The answer key is enclosed in the teachers' manual for the written exercises to be conducted

in the class room and answer sheets to be checked.

1. White or cream cambric fabric - 1 meter

2. Satin fabric in any color - 2 meters

3. Needle

4. Anchor thread - 6 colors one mini hank each

5. Wooden frame for embroidery - 8 to 9 inch diameter

Materials:

6. Pencil or tailor's chalk for drawing the design

There is no practical assignment as mentioned in the chapter however,

a couple of technique demonstration can be done to enhance the learning.

Technique 1 - Hand embroidery

a) Stem stitch embroidery

b) Lazy daisy embroidery

c) Chain stitch embroidery

Step 1: Make the design using tailor's chalk on cream or off white cambric fabric.

Step 2: Tighten the fabric on wooden frame.

Step 3: Use needle with thread to do embroidery.

Step 4: Follow the below images for embroidery instructions.

a) Stem stitch embroidery

Practical Assignment:

Method:


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Source: http://thestitchylife.blogspot.in/2011/02/stem-stitch-tutorial.html

b) Lazy daisy embroidery

a b

a) Step by step instructions for lazy daisy embroidery

b) Possible Design is only for reference and understanding

Source: http://www.victorian-embroidery-and-crafts.com/chain_stitch_variations.html

Source: http://bigbgsd.blogspot.in/2009/09/100-stitches-40-lazy-daisy-stitch.html

a) Chain stitch embroidery

a

b


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a) Step by step instructions chain stitch embroidery

b) Possible Design is only for reference and understanding

Source: http://www.embroidery.rocksea.org/stitch/chain-stitch/zig-zag-chain-stitch/(reference for

image a)

Source: http://www.needlenthread.com/2006/10/embroidery-stitch-video-tutorial.chain.htm

l(reference for image b)

Technique 2 - Canadian smocking

Step 1: Make the graph using tailor's chalk on any satin fabric. Each block is 1 x 1 inch and each cross has

4 points on diagonals

Step 2: Tighten the fabric on wooden frame.

Step 3: Use needle with thread to do embroidery using a matching thread.

Step 4: Follow the below images for embroidery instructions.

Graph for flower design in Lattice smocking

Method:

Canadian Smocking


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Source: http://vani-testblog2.blogspot.in/2010/07/designs-from-bee-cottage.html:27 March 2013

A number of designs can be developed for practice and all designs should be original ideas.

**Images shown in this practical guide is used for understanding only.

Important note:


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Methodology:

Material and Equipments.


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To understand the Textile designers professional practices

To get an overview of the work systems of Textile design Industry.

Lecture through audio visual references.

In order to achieve clarity a demonstration shall be organized in the class through a mock

client presentation.

Students should be asked to work on any one T-shirt design on A4 sheet for a teenage girl/boy

and bring to the class.

The class should be divided in groups of two or more, in each group one student should act as

a client and few other can act as designers, they should make a client presentation.

Through proper reasoning and feedback session the appropriateness of the design should be

discussed.

The Teacher should give focused feedback oriented towards the design/colour/teenage

customer group etc.

No laboratory practical assignments are assigned since these sub units are theory based and study

material and teaching methodology needs to be followed as provided in chapters and teachers

manual; however some class room equipment could be used to enhance the learning experience for

the students.




110




Please note the pen drive is required to save images, videos or presentations and attached to

the KIAN to have a full screen mode audio visual presentation.


references.

Note: The answer key is enclosed in the teacher's manual for the written exercises to be


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