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Els Ports, the mountains that lie between Catalonia,Valencia and Aragon, are part of a limestone massif,characterised by its abrupt cliff faces, which has beeninhabited by humans since prehistoric times. Els Portshave always been a source of natural resources forhuman subsistence and interests. Today, this fact canbe seen in the vague traces they have left behind, likethe farms, the chalk ovens, the ice wells, the charcoalstores, the dry stone walls, and the paved paths.Despite its intense population, this territory, which hasbeen so much explored and exploited in history, nowappears to us as a natural forest space, full of wildlife.The importance of its natural value and the need forconservation motivated the Government of Cataloniato create Els Ports Natural Park and Les Fagedes delsPorts Partial Nature Reserve, two special protectionregimes that should guarantee the preservation of thenatural value of the area and ensure the sustainableuse of its many resources.

The landscapeEls Ports make up a very complex relief, whichstraddles the Catalan Mediterranean system and theIberian system. It is formed of Mesozoic limestonematerials, resulting in a sheer outline, broken by manyfaults, and with significant overthrusts of the faultplates. A system of faults separates Els Ports from thecoastal plains. The northern front of conglomerates,turned towards the Ebro depression, stands out,characterised by the Roques de Benet, Periganyol andSant Salvador.The central structure is of Jurassic-type folds, with theaxis in a northeast to southwestern direction. In thewestern part, the main rivers dig deep whirlpools, as isthe case of the Matarranya river at Les Gúbies delParrissal – outside the national park – Les Gúbies delRegatxol at the head of the Ulldemó river and thevalleys themselves at Mas de la Franqueta along thelength of Els Estrets.The massif has a number of mountains remarkable fortheir height and unique appearance, with a large areaof Els Ports being above 1,000 m. The highest peak isMont Caro, at 1,447 m.

The climateThe climate of Els Ports is not the same throughout thearea, as the altitude and aspect affect it significantly.

For example, there is a noticeable difference betweenthe two faces of the massif. The southeastern face,influenced by the Mediterranean climate, is much moretemperate than the interior face, which has much morecontinental climatic conditions.As the altitude increases,the climate becomes sub-Mediterranean, which resultsin increased precipitation and a drop in temperature. Inclimate, as in many other things, Els Ports is an area ofsharp contrasts. The weather can change from absolutecalm to a hurricane-like wind from the northwest in theblink of an eye. Gusts of wind of over 150 km/h are notuncommon.

Els Ports Natural Park

THE PHYSICAL ENVIRONMENT:LANDSCAPE AND CLIMATE

Cover: Interior face of the Natural Park. Arnes and Horta de Sant Joan Photo: LMDG

Opposite page: Faixes Tancades. RoquetesPhoto: Rafael Balada

This page: Toll del Vidre. ArnesPhoto: Josep Vidal

The wide variety of habitats that Els Ports offers leads toa wealth of animal life. The animal populations of ElsPorts are of great interest not just for the abundanceand variety of species, but also because there areanimals that are endemic, or very rare in Catalonia.Among the animal population, the most spectacular isthe population of Spanish ibex (Capra pyrenaica subsp.hispanica), a species that is endemic to the IberianPeninsula, and which has a controlled population forhunting, managed by the Reserva Nacional de Caça(National Hunting Reserve). Among the other mostnoteworthy mammals are the otter (Lutra lutra), thewildcat (Felis sylvestris), and the bat group, which withover 20 species is one of the richest bat communities onthe Iberian Peninsula.Many different birds also find the ideal living and nestingconditions in Els Ports. Among them are large sedentarybirds of prey, such as the griffon vulture (Gyps fulvus),the golden eagle (Aquila chrysaetos), the Bonelli'seagle (Hieraaetus fasciatus), the goshawk (Accipitergentilis), the peregrine falcon (Falco peregrinus), theeagle owl (Bubo bubo), etc. and those that nest therefor the summer, such as the short-toed eagle (Circaetusgallicus), the booted eagle (Hieraaetus pennatus), theEgyptian vulture (Neophron percnopterus), etc.There are many other interesting bird species to befound in Els Ports, including the dipper (Cincluscinclus), the nuthatch (Sitta europaea), the wheatear

(Oenanthe leucura) and the citril finch (Serinuscitrinella).Reptiles are also well represented in Els Ports; in fact,over 50% of the species living in Catalonia can befound in this natural space.The Mediterranean terrapin(Mauremys leprosa), the Mediterranean gecko(Hemidactylus turcicus), the Spanish psammodromus(Psammodromus hispanicus), Bedriagai's skink(Chalcides bedriagai), the horseshoe whip snake(Coluber hippocrepis) and the Lataste's viper (Viperalatasti) are good examples of the reptile population.The same can be said for amphibians, as, again,more than 50% of the species found in Cataloniaare recorded in the park. Some extremelyinteresting species can be seen, such as the Spanishribbed newt (Pleurodeles waltl), the marbled newt(Triturus marmoratus), and the parsley frog (Pelodytespunctatus). Their presence in Els Ports is of particularimportance, as it indicates the existence of enoughdamp areas and water sources for them to remain, aremarkable fact amidst a landscape and climate thatare essentially Mediterranean.In the river, there are a number of interestingnative species, such as the Southwest Europeannase (Chondrostoma toxostoma), the red roach(Rutilus arcasii) and the white-clawed crayfish(Austrapotamobius pallipes); and among theinvertebrates, there are endemic species from themollusc, arachnid and coleopteran groups that appearon the list of endangered species in the Plan for Areasof Natural Interest in Catalonia.

The characteristic position of the Els Ports massif,between the Iberian and Catalan mountains, meansthat the flora and fauna to be found there is a relicof other times and places, with Eurosiberian andBoreoalpine species living alongside typicallyMediterranean species, resulting in a geo-botanicalparadise in which over 1,000 species can be found.In the base area and on the eastern face of the range,the predominant vegetation is shrubland of kermesoak and European fan palms (Querco-Lentiscetum).On the western face, which is fresher and morecontinental in character, the base stage is occupied byoak groves (Quercetum rotundifoliae).In the higher zones, the potential vegetation is evergreenoak grove (Quercetum mediterraneo-montanum).The sub-Mediterranean stage is basically covered bymountain pine groves (Violo-Quercetum faginaepinetosum salzmanni) and by Scots pine withbearberry (Arctostaphylo-Pinetum catalaunicae); andin the most unusual spots we can find box scrub(Violo-Quercetum faginae buxetosum) and others. Inthe more humid areas of the upper stages, to thesouth of the massif, there are beech groves (Primulo-Fagetum) and yew groves (Saniculo-Taxetum), whichare a remnant of times gone by, when the weatherwas cooler and more humid.The ridge tops, subjected to strong winds for agood part of the year, house a number of species

characteristic of the Mediterranean highlands, withcommunities native to the southern Catalan mountainssuch as hedgehog broom, mountain kidney-vetch(Erinaceo-Anthyllidetum montanae), earthnuts andfescue (Conopodio-Festucetum gautieri).Rock-growing vegetation is very typical of the massif,and is of significant interest. There is the Jasonio-Linarietum cadevallii on the sunny mountainsides, theTarragonan Hieracio-Salicetum in the shade and theAntirrhinetum pertegasii in the shadowy nooks.Among this rock-growing vegetation there are somenoteworthy endemic species such as the dwarf willow(Salix tarraconensis), Antirrhinum sempervirens subsp.pertegasii, Brassica repanda dertosensis, Armeriafontqueri, Saxifraga longifolia, Erodium celtibericum,Knautia rupicola, etc.Other plant species stand out for their rarity, such asPrunus prostrata, Brimeura fontqueri, Dryopterissubmontana etc., or for phyto-geographical aspects:Polygala calcarea, Gymnocarpium robertianum,Primula acaulis, Nepeta tuberosa, Ramonda myconi,Atropa baetica etc.The humid environments have some relictual speciessuch as the butterwort (Pinguicola dertosensis), endemicto the massifs and found on limestone stalactites.Of particular interest are the beech tree groves ofthese mountains, the most southerly in the Catalanterritories. These beech tree groves are some of themost southerly in Europe and have been especiallyprotected by the Les Fagedes dels Ports Partial NatureReserve.

1 2 3 4 5

FAUNA FLORA AND VEGETATION

1 Griffon Vultures (Gyps fulvus)Photo: Vicent Pellicer

2 Spanish Ibex (Capra pyrenaica subsp. hispanica); female andyoungPhoto: Vicent Pellicer

3 Mediterranean creek plant lifePhoto: Ana Ávila Aguilà

4 Faig Pare, a monumental treePhoto: Boluña fotografs

5 Pine trees on the cliffsPhoto: Jarkov Reverté

If you are coming by train (RENFE)

Information: (00 34) 934 900 202Recommended station: Tortosa.

If you are coming by bus (Bus company to these locations: HIFE)

Information: (00 34) 977 440 300Recommended station: Tortosa. Buses leave from hereMonday to Friday to all the villages in the Natural Park.

If you are coming by car

The main roads into the regions are:

Motorway AP-7. Barcelona-Valencia- Exit 40: l’Aldea-Tortosa- Exit 41: Amposta-Sant Carles de la Ràpita

National road: CN-340. Barcelona-Valencia

Eix de l'Ebre C12. Lleida-Amposta

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10

5 km TRANSPORT AND ACCESS

Information Centre

Car Park

Picnic Area

Viewpoint

Shelter

Natural Park

Nature Reserve

Major road

Minor road

Track or Path

An important element of the mountain range is itsvillages, which are located around the edge and sharedbetween the two sides, each one offering a differentway into the park. Getting to know the different facesof this wild territory, while staying among the hospitalityof its people, is the best option for the visitor.

BAIX EBRE

Alfara de CarlesA peaceful and picturesque village (380 inhabitants),located right in the centre of the Natural Park,surrounded by mountains. The old castle of Carles, thechapel of Sant Julià, Els Ullals or the Font Nova can bevisited. Excursions can leave from the village itself, orfrom the area of Toscar. The village is well known forits ox farms, many of which offer restaurant facilitiesand amateur bullfight using youn animals.

PaülsPaüls, on the edge of the Natural Park, stillmaintains its mountain village charm. It is nearXerta and is well linked to Tortosa by the Eix del'Ebre road. Visitors can begin trails on foot from thevillage itself, or by walking to the Recreation Area atthe chapel of Sant Roc. There is a wide array ofchoices for the walker.

RoquetesRoquetes houses the Administration Offices andan Information Point of the Natural Park. It is justoutside Tortosa and is well linked by the AP7motorway and the Eix de l'Ebre road. From Roquetes,walkers can make their way up to the peak of MontCaro, which at a height of 1,447 m is the highestpoint in Els Ports.

TortosaThis commercial and services centre is the capital ofthe region of El Baix Ebre. It extends to both sides ofthe river and has a historic old town that is bothextremely important and beautiful, with its gothiccathedral.Tortosa is well served for transport by the AP7motorway, the N-340 national road and the Eix del'Ebre road. The most direct access to Els Ports is in thedirection of Roquetes.

MONTSIÀ

La SéniaThis is the southernmost village in the Natural Park,and it is well known for the variety and quality of itsfurniture makers, with exhibition and sales pointsopen at the weekends. It is well linked to La Tinençade Benifassà, Morella and Vinaròs. The majority of thePartial Nature Reserve of the Beech Groves of Els Portslies within this municipality.

El Racó de la Cova d'en Marc (Marc's Cave) at La Vall,which is of great interest for the geological formationsfound there and the views of the gully, or the trail ofEls Hortets and Cova la Roja at La Fou.The area of La font Nova, in the municipality of Alfarade Carles, is another option, in this case for exploringthe southern face of the ridge, the views to the mouthof the Ebro river and enjoying the climb up to LaMoleta. From Paüls we can enter Els Ports through therecreation area of Sant Roc, and in the heart of thePark on the path that leads to El Mascar a Fredes, isthe area at Cova Avellanes. Another point from whichto begin a walk is the recreation area at the gully ofLloret, from which we can reach El Racó del Moro andLa cova Pintada (The Painted Cave).

Long-hike trailsThere are two long-hike (GR) trails that cross Els PortsNatural Park. One of these is the GR-7, which crossesthe massif lengthwise, passing Font Ferrera, CasetesVelles, El Mascar, Les Clotes, L'Espina, Sant Roc andthe village of Paüls. A variation on this trail is the GR-171: this breaks away from GR-7 at the summit of ElMascar, and passes Toscar and L'Alfara de Carles toreturn to the original path at Paüls and then continueto Prat de Comte.The other long-hike trail is the GR-8, which takes usfrom the Shelter of Font Ferrera to Beseit (Teruel),through the areas of Refalgarí and Millers.These long-distance paths offer sections passing through

all types of environment and take the walker throughall the different landscapes hidden in Els Ports: steepgullies and cliffs, beech groves and Scots pinewoods.... However, routes must be planned accordingto the experience and physical fitness of each visitor.We recommend that you are well-equipped for anyhike that you do, and that you always use a detailedwalking map. There is a wide and varied selection ofaccommodation available along the way: shelters suchas the one at Font Ferrera (FEEC - The CatalanFederation of Rambling Clubs, with warden), the oneat Mas del Frare (key must be requested), at Caro (UEC- Union of Ramblers of Catalonia, with warden), theone at Les Clotes (open), or villages to meet all thewalker's needs, with a wide range of services available.For more information, you can ask at the InformationCentres of Els Ports Natural Park, where they will alsoinform you of the activities organised in these areassuch as talks, outings to get to know Els Ports, courses,workshops etc.

Prat de ComteA small village (360 inhabitants) set right at the edgeof the Natural Park. It is well linked with Horta de SantJoan and is also near the Sanctuary of La Fontcalda,where the Via Verde (Green Route) passes, a trail thatfollows a disused train line, and is today used as acycle path. There are many different walks that can betaken from here, some of them as spectacular as theclimb up to El Tossal d'Engrilló, with one of the bestviews of the Ebro regions.

Family trailsEls Ports Natural Park has recreation areas throughoutthe three regions. These areas, in addition to being restand leisure areas, are also the departure point forfamily trails and rambles for those who want to enjoynature. The areas are equipped with tables andrunning water, and welcome all those people andactivities that are respectful of the environment. This isthe case of the recreation area at La Franqueta atHorta de Sant Joan, from where the visitor can begintrails such as the route of La Cova d'en Picasso(Picasso's Cave), the Mas de Corretja trail or the trailto Els Estrets d'Arnes. Other recreation areas situatedfurther to the south in the park are those at La Fouand La Vall, which offer possibilities such as the trail to

Mas de BarberansKnown and recognised for its cuisine, this village offerssome of the best meat in the region. It is well linked toTortosa and La Sénia. A few kilometres from the villageis the Leisure Area of La Vall, from which the visitor canmake trips of varying lengths and levels of difficulty:Racó d'en Marc, Mas del Barró, and many more.

TERRA ALTA

ArnesA small, charming village. It is highly recommendedthat you take a walk around the streets of the oldtown and visit the façade of the Town Hall, one of themost outstanding Renaissance buildings in the area.From Arnes, it is easy to reach Horta de Sant Joan,Beseit, Vallderoures, and even as far as Morella. Youcan take trips to Els Estrets d'Arnes –one of theprettiest and most spectacular spots in the NationalPark– to El Toll de Vidre, and to Les Valls.

Horta de Sant JoanA village with an array of history on show.The village'sold town can be visited, as can the Town Hall square,the old prison, the Picasso Centre, the Els PortsEcomuseum, and the oldest tree in Catalonia, an olivetree known as Lo Parot. Horta de Sant Joan is welllinked with Gandesa and Vallderoures. In the interiorof Els Ports, the Recreation Area of La Franqueta is adeparture point for various marked walking trails.

1 2

THE VILLAGES

THE PARK ON FOOT

1 Mas de BarberansPhoto: Jarkov Reverté

2 Prat de ComptePhoto: Jarkov Reverté

3 PaülsPhoto: Jarkov Reverté

Information centres and places of interest

Information Centre of Els Ports Natural ParkAv. Val de Zafán, s/n (Apartat de Correus 70)43520 RoquetesTelephone: 977 504 012Fax: 977 58 08 73Telephone Information Centre: 977 500 845

Opening hours:Winter hours (from 16th September to 31st May)Monday to Friday 10am-1pm / 4pm-6pm.Saturday 9am-1pm / 4pm-6pm.Sunday: 9am-1pm.Summer hours (from 1st June to 15th September)Monday to Friday 10am-1pm / 5pm-7pm. Saturday: 9am-1pm /5pm-7pmSunday: 9am-1pm.

Ecomuseu dels Ports (Els Ports Ecomuseum)C/ de Picasso, 1843596 Horta de Sant JoanTelephone: 977 435 686E-mail: ecomuseu@elsports.orghttp://www.elsports.org

Opening hours:Tuesday to Saturday: 11am-1:30pm / 5pm-8pm.Sundays and bank holidays:11am-1:30pm. Mondays: Closed

Webhttp://www.parcsdecatalunya.net

E-mailpndelsports.dmah@gencat.net

Municipalities

Alfara de CarlesArnesHorta de Sant JoanLa SéniaMas de BarberansPaülsPrat de ComteRoquetesTortosa

Date of Creation

Decree 160/2001, of 12th June, declaring the Els Ports NaturalPark and the Les Fagedes dels Ports Partial Nature Reserve.

International Protection

Natura 2000. Mediterranean Region.

Area (Department of the Environment and Housing Planning Service. Last

updated: 2004)

35.050 ha (includes 867 ha of Nature Reserve)

Regions

El Baix EbreEl MontsiàLa Terra Alta

• The massif of Els Ports has very complex relief thatmakes access and movement difficult. It is thereforerecommended that you take great care, and that youdo not always trust only in your map.

• To sum up: before entering the Natural Park, ask forinformation at the Information Centres, where theywill tell you how you can enjoy the park withoutdamaging it.

Caro Shelter - U.E.C. (Alfara de Carles)

Tel: 977 267 128 / 617 808 816

Font Ferrera Shelter - FEEC (La Sénia)40 places

Tel: 977 588 668 / 647 847 105

Accommodation at the Restaurant del Port(Tortosa) 30 places

Tel: 977 267 143 / 607 380 965

The different villages offer a wide variety ofaccommodation (rural houses, hotels, guest houses,hostels) and restaurants.

These are shelters which are kept closed, and the keyshould be requested in advance from the manager.

Mas del Frare Shelter (La Sénia)

Tel: 630 518 254

Shelter of La Font Nova - CCEX (CentreExcursionista de Xerta) (Alfara de Carles)

Tel: 977 473 664 / 977 473 369

These are simple rain shelters, open to everyone, andit is therefore possible that they might be full. They arereached by following the track.

Les Clotes Shelter (Horta de Sant Joan)

Mas del Torrero-Terranyes Shelter (Arnes)

Shelter of La Font Nova _CCEX (Alfara deCarles)

Shelter of La Font Ferrera (La Sénia)20 free places when the warden is absent.

• Els Ports is one of the most important natural spacesin Catalonia, and has been declared a Natural Parkto preserve its geological, biological and landscapeimportance, and also the cultural values of thosewho live and work there. You should thereforerespect and learn to appreciate the surroundings.

• Be aware that the instructions of the park wardens(forest guards), accredited personnel of the NaturalPark, and the owners and inhabitants of the park,must be followed at all times.

• Make use of the infrastructure and equipment in thepark, and take your rubbish to the nearest bins.Separate your rubbish in the correct way.

• Els Ports contains some very fragile ecosystems. Bevery careful not to start fires; carelessness candestroy something that nature has taken centuries tocreate.

• We recommend that to get to know the park, youstick to the marked paths, and we would like toremind you that motor vehicles are not permitted offthe marked roads and tracks.

• Do not frighten the wild animals or do anything thatmight disturb them; simply observe them.

• Do not pick the plants. Remember that the majorityare protected, and that it is our duty andresponsibility to conserve them.

• If it is the season for picking mushrooms, follow therules and recommendations given in the InformationCentres.

• Respect private property. Remember that themountains and the woodland have their owners whotake care of the maintenance and improvement ofthe forests.

• Do not enter enclosed areas or use tracks marked asprivate property.

• In Els Ports there are various herds of bull oxen.When planning a visit or excursion, ask in the ParkInformation Centres, in order to avoid surprises.Remember, bulls can be very dangerous.

• Remember that the activities that can be carried outin the Natural Park are regulated. Canyoning, rockclimbing, group activities etc. are governed byspecific regulations. Information can be obtained atthe Natural Park Information Centres.

2 3

ACCOMMODATION AND SHELTERSWITH WARDENS

LOCKED SHELTERS

FREE SHELTERS

RULES AND RECOMMENDATIONS

1 Viewpoint of Salt de FerrassóPhoto: Josep-Maria Forcadell-Roig

2 La Vall recreation areaPhoto: Josep-Maria Forcadell-Roig

3 Park Information CentrePhoto: Jarkov Reverté

El Retaule beech grove. La Sénia (back cover)Photo: Boluña Fotògrafs

© GOVERNMENT OF CATALONIA DEPARTMENT OF THE ENVIRONMENT AND HOUSING, DIRECTORATE GENERAL FOR NATUREPARKS SERVICE Dr. Roux, 80 08017 Barcelona Tel. 935 674 200 Legal Deposit: B-50.384-05Design and Layout: LMDG / Lluís Mestres / Lucia Joglar. Acknowledgements for the photos on pages 4, 5 and 9: Josep Vidal, Xavier Parellada, Rafael Balada, Carles Flaqué, Fèlix Amat,Joan Manel Roig, Jordi Beltrán, Vicent Pellicer. Printing: IMGESA

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