embroidery - calangute, goa - d'source · the tools that are required for machine embroidery...

D’sourceDigital Learning Environment for Design - www.dsource.in

1

Source: http://www.dsource.in/resource/embroidery-calan-gute-goa

Design Resource

Embroidery - Calangute, GoaMachine Embroidery on T-shirtbyProf. Bibhudutta Baral, Divyadarshan C. S. and Sandhya B.NID Campus, Bengaluru

1. Introduction2. Tools and Raw Materials3. Making Process4. Products5. Video6. Contact Details

http://www.dsource.in/resource/embroidery-calangute-goa

http://www.dsource.in/resource/embroidery-calangute-goa


2

Introduction Goa is a state situated in West India, bounded by states Maharashtra in the north and Karnataka in the south, and Arabian Sea forming its western coast. The smallest state by area in India is Goa, Panaji is its capital and Vas-co da Gama is the largest city. Goa is a splendid place one would want to visit! It attracts tourists from all over and has its national and international visitors come for beaches, the world class architecture and for the beauty of the place itself. Calangute is one of the prominent places of Goa and is very well-known for its beaches (queen of beaches) the largest in north Goa. It is visited by thousands of visitors every year. The visitors are less at off sea-son (from June through September) and more during the times of Christmas, New Year and summer season that is in May. Calangute is the most commercialized of all beaches in Goa. Restaurants, pubs, antique junk, sea shells, clothing, craft items and more are found in and around Calangute beaches. One of the eye catchy shops there is the machine Embroidered T-shirts’ near Calangute beach. The T- shirts and bags hung outside with bright color threads used for Embroidery attracts tourists from far off the streets and have attractive designs on them.

Umesh Yadav from Varanasi, born and brought up in Kathmandu and later settled in Goa from couple of years owns two of these machine embroidery shops. One at Candolim and another in Calangute beach. The designs and combine of patterns are originally done and is said that his family were the first ones to start off this kind of machine embroidery in Goa. It was his father’s indication to work on this kind of embroidery and it was initiated in 1997. There is a lot of scope being in Goa for its volatile, keeps changing all the time and that is the advantage they have he says. Being creative, that it is a party hub and also a family destination they are trying to bring in designs where they can reach out to people and give them perhaps what they like and admire, what they would want to wear or see. That’s what the shops working for and doing well. The shop got good response when it was started initially, tourists appreciated and definitely machine embroidery was a successful lash his father per-ceived.

As days passed the innovation of designs and skills enhanced through exchange of ideas from customers. Ma-chine work is quite faster and can acquire a good finishing of the embroidery work done. The threads used are got from Mumbai from wholesale markets. Lot of tourists from Israel, Germany and Denmark where fascinated and bought these products. Few products are said to be sent to Finland even. The designs are psychedelic, can be custom made to what the client wants or designs which are generally appealing to all are stitched. It takes approximately three hours to stitch a design on t-shirt. The smaller designs consume more time because of intri-cacy. The orders for a large quantity is fulfilled checking with the manpower and time.

Source: http://www.dsource.in/resource/embroidery-calan-gute-goa/introduction

Design Resource



http://www.dsource.in/resource/embroidery-calangute-goa/introduction



3

Various samples of diverse iconographies designs displayed for audience to choose for their product.


Design Resource






4

A work of art made inside a lotus medallion with the influence of tales made on the artisan.

Mishri Prasad Yadav from Varanasi, A person who start-ed embroidery art on T-shirts and on various products in Goa.

The root of this craft, machine embroidery and artistic skills on the T-shirt.

Close picture of two Hindu deities iconographies made out of machine embroidery with two shades of a colour beautifully.


Design Resource






5

Iconographies of numerous subjects done excellently and displayed.

Trendy popular embroidered denim side bags with pop culture designs.

Multiple colours and their shades of embroidery threads beautifully merged used in the making of this contemporary artwork.


Design Resource






6

Tools and Raw Materials The tools that are required for Machine Embroidery are:

• Pair of Scissors: Scissors are used to cut threads and Cora cloth.

• Embroidery Machine: The embroidery machine is used to stitch.

• Butter Paper: Butter paper is used to trace the designs.

• Cora Cloth: Cora cloth is used hold the t-shirt firm and save from tearing.

• T-shirts/Bags: Ready t-shirts, bags and the cloth that has to be stitched are got from wholesalers.

• Threads: A good quality of silk threads are used (got from Mumbai).

• Machine Needles: The numbers from 6-11(number metric) needles are used when embroidering.

• Designs: The designs are chosen that has to be stitched on t-shirts.

• Embroidery Hoop: Embroidery hoop helps to keep the cloth stiff while embroidering.

• Kerosene: Kerosene helps the thread to move smooth in the embroidery machines.

• Chalk Powder: Chalk powder is mixed with kerosene to make a paste.

• Lighter: Lighter is used to burn the excess thread after stitch and give a finished look.

Kerosene lighter is used in refining the threads stitched, by burning the extra thread strands.

Source: http://www.dsource.in/resource/embroidery-calan-gute-goa/tools-and-raw-materials

Design Resource



http://www.dsource.in/resource/embroidery-calangute-goa/tools-and-raw-materials



7

Wooden embroidery hoops, rings which holds the cloth stiff and helps in easy handling of the materials while under the embroidery machine.

Cora polyester cloth used under the embroidery work to safe guard and strengthen the T-shirt material and it also holds the cloth stiff which eventually helps in work.

Needle and Feed dog plate above bobbin case, are essential parts of the sewing machine which are used in stitching on the cloth.


Design Resource






8

Pair of stainless steel scissors used in cutting the extra threads and extra unwanted cloth.

Quality rayon silk thread cones used in embroidery which gives an embellished look and sustains for the long time.

Kerosene and chalk powder mixed paste is used to trace the design on T-shirt from the stencil prepared with the butter paper.

Stencil made out of the butter paper which is used to trace the design on the T-shirt.


Design Resource






9

Special thread cone holder is used for the supply of the thread to the sewing machine accurately.

Embroidery machine which runs with the help of the motor is used for embroidery work.

A bright parrot green rayon silk thread cone used for embroidery.


Design Resource






10

Making Process The making of machine embroidery on t-shirts and bags – a blueprint of the design required for the embroidery is taken first (the design is traced on a butter paper). Embroidery hoop is fixed to a black Cora cloth and the ex-cess cloth that comes out of hoop is cut off with a pair of scissors for better control and less trouble of the hoop while embroidering. This hoop with black Cora cloth is then attached to a t-shirt or to a cloth where the design has to be stitched. The embroidery hoop holds the main t-shirt/cloth that has to be stitched below which the black Cora cloth is attached to prevent t-shirt from tearing and for the stitch to sit stiff. The threads used are silk threads imported from Mumbai (Bombay), once the threads are set to the embroidery machine the design need-ed to be stitched is acquired on the t-shirt.

To trace the design onto a t-shirt – the design is first copied on to a butter paper, outlines of the designs are pierced with small holes with help of sharp needles. After marking the outlines on butter paper it is placed on top of the hoop, a mixture of Kerosene and Chalk powder paste is spread over butter paper to get the outlines of the designs from butter paper on to the t-shirts. These outlines become reference for the embroidery to begin. The embroidery begins on the outlines initially and the outlines are later filled with lighter shades and contrast-ing color threads. Kerosene is poured on bobbin for the smooth flow of threads. Speed of running embroidery machine is according to the thickness of lines in design and the tailor person’s skills of working on Embroidery machine also adds to the finishing of embroidery work. More experience adds to the better finishing of complex designs. With the finishing outlines and highlights the embroidered t-shirt is ready, with the help of a lighter excess thread is burnt. The hoop is removed once the embroidery work is all done. The stitches are called Zig-Zag. This kind of machine embroidery is identical in Goa for its unique design style that they have been following. Few design inspirations are from the epic book Ramayana. Since Goa is a tourist’s destination the designs have got its influence from visitors as well. Hence the designs are diverse. The place welcomes more proposals and ideas to improvise on designs and utility of this embroidery.

Source: http://www.dsource.in/resource/embroidery-calan-gute-goa/making-process

Design Resource



http://www.dsource.in/resource/embroidery-calangute-goa/making-process



11

The required measurement of cloth is acquired by cutting down the extras from the scissors.

The hoops are kept inside the shirt and it is placed in the middle of the shirt, where the embroidery design is supposed to be made.

The outer ring of the embroidery with screw is firstly placed in a place.

The black Cora polyester cloth is place over the ring and the inner ring of the hoop is put and screwed together tight.


Design Resource






12

The paste of kerosene and chalk powder is spread over the stenciled butter paper.

The design is traced and obtained on the T-shirt suc-cessfully.

The inner ring is taken out and the front portion of the shirt is put in between the hoop rings with cora polyester cloth.

Design stenciled butter paper is taken and placed in the middle of the hoop ring.


Design Resource






13

Embroidery sewing machine is loaded with the silk thread and the stitching process begins a zig-zag pattern.

Artisan uses different shades of the required colour to show the effect of dimensions of the work in 2D.

The required colour rayon silk thread is taken and immersed into the needle hole.

The thread immersed into the needle is held firmly and the traced design is placed below the needle to begin with embroidery stitching process.


Design Resource






14

Coconut oil is spread on the bobbin for lubrication of the machine which leads to a proper process of the machine and kerosene is put on the silk cone to lubricate the strands.

Detailing and finishing effect of the design is made by the artisan with concentration and ideologies on the process.

The rayon silk cone is changed and the artisan joins the previous tone thread to the present one to get it in stitch in a flow.

The embroidery is done in one direction to obtain the even flow and perspective of the design.


Design Resource






15

The shirt is inverted inside out, the extra threads are cut with the help of the scissors.

The extra cora polyester cloth are also cut with the scis-sors and it is ensure by the artisan for any errors.

The embroidery is complete and the threads are cut from the needle and bobbin.

The lighter is ignited and the extra strands of the thread is burnt which refines the design.


Design Resource






16

The embroidery hoop rings are removed from the shirt.


Design Resource






17

Artisan put it on the hanger and display it in the store.


Design Resource






18

Products The shop is run successfully and the starting cost price per t-shirt is four hundred and fifty rupees and the rate differs with the intricacy of designs. The products of these stores are very identical because of their use of bright and neon color threads. Goa bags are noted cause of their bright colors and unique designs. Bags, t-shirts and sleeveless t-shirts are the products appreciated and this inspires them to produce more and endure.

Denim side bags designed with embroidered pop culture images and various iconographies which are in trend.

Source: http://www.dsource.in/resource/embroidery-calan-gute-goa/products

Design Resource



http://www.dsource.in/resource/embroidery-calangute-goa/products



19

The godfather, a movie logo popularly adored is embroidered on a contrast colour T-shirt.

Beautifully composed and embroidered Real Madrid football club logo on the T-shirt.


Design Resource






20

Three different genres of shirt like collar shirt, round necked shirt and vests are worked upon and displayed.

The prominent and famous logos and iconographies are embroidered on the T-shirts and displayed in the stores.

The small bags are also designs with trendy images and displayed for sale in stores.


Design Resource






21

Video

Embroidery - Calangute, Goa

Source: http://www.dsource.in/resource/embroidery-calan-gute-goa/video

Design Resource



https://youtu.be/OkrKbCGzfkA

https://youtu.be/OkrKbCGzfkA

http://www.dsource.in/resource/embroidery-calangute-goa/video

http://www.dsource.in/resource/embroidery-calangute-goa/video


22

Contact Details This documentation was done by Prof. Bibhudutta Baral, Divyadarshan C. S. and Sandhya B. at NID Campus, Bengaluru.

You can get in touch with • Prof. Bibhudutta Baral at bibhudutta[at]nid.edu

You could write to the following address regarding suggestions and clarifications: Key Contacts:Mr. John – Proprietor and Professional ArtistPanaji, GoaMobile: +0832-2472087

Helpdesk Details:Co-ordinatorProject e-kalpaR & D CampusNational Institute of Design#12 HMT Link Road, Off Tumkur RoadBengaluru 560 022India

Phone: +91 80 2357 9054Fax: +91 80 23373086Email: dsource.in[at]gmail.com

Source: http://www.dsource.in/resource/embroidery-calan-gute-goa/contact-details

Design Resource



http://www.nid.edu/

mailto:bibhudutta%40nid.edu?subject=

mailto:dsource.in%40gmail.com?subject=

http://www.dsource.in/resource/embroidery-calangute-goa/contact-details

http://www.dsource.in/resource/embroidery-calangute-goa/contact-details

embroidery - calangute, goa - d'source · the tools that are required for machine embroidery...

Documents