entroterrainglpdf 13 11 2004 10:23 pagina 1 - … a passage by fabrizio de andrè ... brizio de...

At two steps from the seaDiscover the Genoese Apennines

entroterraINGLpdf 13 11 2004 10:23 Pagina 1

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“There is a beach in front of the sea, turn the pageand collect the blackberries. A beautiful redheadtasting sea bass, turn the page and you are on the

hill. The hill with many pathways, turnthe page and you are in the Riviera.”The desire to sing like this -paraphrasing a passage by Fabrizio De Andrè - arises when observing theGenoa landscape, with its coastsmodelled by long beaches, inlayed withsmall ports, decorated with beachumbrellas and alive with merry voices.

Many beautiful things.Which give up theirplace, after a fewkilometres, to the proudgreenery of the inland,a fresh and relaxingworld almost all yearround, it is the greenerythat you would neverhave expected, especially if, as a tourist, you areused to pass in a quick and distracted way on themotorway, towards sea-based weekends or holidays.You don’t know how much you miss, hurried tourist,as it would be so easy to combine the delights of thebeach with the discovery of a thriving and intactworld, where traditions resist cement, nature offersunmissable glimpses and stress truly does not exist.We are not talking of an island that does not exist,but of a green reality, true and genuine. So close tothe sea that you could almost kiss it.

Così vicina al mare da poterlo quasi baciare.

At two steps from the sea there is a green mount


An ever green worldThe classic tourist, Genoeseor perhaps from Lombardy,Piedmont or EmiliaRomagna, arrives here, inthe Genoese Apennines,and again finds - orperhaps discovers? - howintact as always it is: the

intense green and superbuncontaminated valleys;the proud wood; the flow,at times placid and attimes restless, of the waterin the rivers and streams;the swish of the lake; thesurprisingly jagged outlineof the mountain peaks; orthe stunning opening ontopasture land.

When holiday in Italianwas called “villeggiatura”meaning “countryholiday”, the Apennineswere the retreat of theGenoese who, in the hotmiddle of summer, left thecity behind with itscloseness and humidity,

and chose to live incharming cottages, ofancient or floral style,surrounded by the greenceiling of the hills. Habitsand customs have changed,“villeggiatura” turned intoonly a couple of weeks or aweekend, but there are stillthose with a house in thecountry.

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palaces and fortresses haveat times taken supportfrom the rocks, to overseefrom up high the valley

and the passage ofmerchants and armies.From the forest, furnitureand household objects aremade, the same woodsoffer bountiful fruits,exquisite and natural,while cooks have treasuedkitchen gardens, fromwhich to collect theproduce that grows only

here, and that only theknowledge of housewivescan turn into undoubtedlydelicious dishes.

Air to breatheA world to fullyappreciate, a reality to discover. Enjoy acheerful walk, a visit to an open-air museum, a castle,an ancient hamlet; ordelight in the pleasure of a typical countryrestaurant known astrattoria, the type with

Nature and ancientwisdomWith his work, his storiesand his history, man is a respectful presencehere, with customs passeddown by word of mouth or with the treasures of theland: in this way themountains have given manstone for the construction of houses and roads; the ancient hamlets havefollowed the outline of the mountains, and

Nature for all

checked tablecloths, or theintense fascination of anexcursion, along the trailsof the natural parks,important custodians of nature, in search ofsceneries that are ever newto the eye.


production of theGraveglia and Sturlavalleys. Here they alsomake Vermentino,together with the classicBianchetta and agreeableCiliegiolo. But it is not all

wine: for beer lovers thereare true surprises inBusalla. Not to miss arethe chestnut beers andthose flavoured withhoney.

Cabannina race or theBruna race, which grazeupon fields that are so wellcared of that they look likegardens. Let’s not forgetthe Sarasso, from theupper Aveto valley or,moving on to pork, thetasty coppa and thedelicious salami. Specialmention must go to thelocal, floury “quarantina”potatoes, delicious like noother with “trenette” pastaand pesto. Dulcis inFundo? The pine nut cakeof the Aveto valley, or therotelle of

This is on offer atSant’Olcese and Orero, inthe upper Polcevera valley.In nearby Serra Riccò the“mostardella” was born, asalami of delicate taste andconsistency, wonderful withbread. There is not onlysalami. The “sacripante” is atypical local creamy sweet.

While the prize-winningpastry shop Poldo isrenowned for its Zenacream and inspired basilchocolates. Among otherdelights is corzetti pasta,with a shape and consistencyideal for collecting sauce,whether it be sumptiousmeat ragu or a tasty touchof mushroom sauce, withpieces of savoury porcini.The valleys of Stura andOrba are known as “thevalleys of milk”, and offerthe fresh products of theMasone cheese factory.Where the pasture landgives up space to the

woods, deliciousfruit is found:bilberries,raspberries andcurrants. In

Torriglia, in theTrebbia valley, you find thepopular “canestrelli”biscuits. A typical Genoesespeciality which is madeparticularly well here.

Think of Genoese cuisineand the sea comes tomind. Here, however, thetastes of the land are themasters. It is enough tothink of fragrant pestosauce, delicate extra virginolive oil, or stuffed “cima”,sung about even byFabrizio De Andrè.Ödo de bön, smell of goodfood, an unsuspectedgastronomical fantasycreated from the richnessof the woods and kitchengardens. This explains thedelicious cookery of theGenoese Apennines. Thereare the classic products,from mushrooms to honey,from chestnuts tohazelnuts to cheese.Delicate and slightly bitterare the latter, among whichtriumphs the prescinseua,the fresh and unmistakableGenoese curd, and thesmall classic cheeses whichexcel in “focaccia colformaggio”, first created inthe hills behind Recco.

Salami and raspberriesA perfecly spicy salami,velvety and slightly smoky,the ideal companion forbroad beans and fresh“pecorino” cheese.

Oil more delicate than thisThe Petronio valley,behind and at timesoverhanging the sea, is aland of olive trees and oil.Fine and delicate asperhaps in no other part ofthe world. While atCastiglione Chiavaresethey make exceptionalsalami. There is alsodelicious lard, the typewhich melts in yourmouth, a prelude to thestronger tastes of the coppaand the salami.

Green pasturesThink of Aveto, Graveglia,Sturla, and already yourmouth is beginning towater. From the hills to themountains all is a triumphof taste. Where to begin?With cheese, of course,from San Stè, which is themost typical among all thetypical cheeses of Liguria.It is produced with the themilk of cows of the native

Borzonasca: the shortcrust, ring-shaped pastrywhich are to die for.

Wine and beerFresh wines, delicate andlight, the kind that goesdown well. In thePolcevera valley, with alittle good fortune, youcan taste the rareCoronata, of anunmistakable taste, or thedoc wines Valpolcevera origt “Valli del Genovesato”,while in the upper Scriviavalley they make applewine. Rich is the

The road of good food...

In the order given:Pesto Genovese and mortar. Salami accompanied by broadbeans and fresh pecorino cheese. Classic canestrelli biscuits from Torriglia. Cows grazing in the Aveto valley. Beer from Busalla. Cheese and typical products from the“milk valleys”.


and beyond. Bells are alsocast in the foundry ofAvegno, a stone’s throwaway from Recco, and theycan be admired in theTrebino Museum.

A filigree townFrom the robust metalused for bells we move onto the fine and preciousmetal intertwined inCampo Ligure, in themiddle of the Stura valley.This is the birthplace offiligree, produced bycraftsmen like in few otherplaces in the world.The main road of the townis a parade of craft shopsand the filigree museumexhibits valuable piecesfrom all over the world.

The valley of millsCraftsmanship and theculture of the countrysidego hand in hand in theupper Polcevera valley.Fully functioning watermills are to be found inCeranesi and Mignanego,and the art of basketweaving is still flourishingthroughout the area.

In Fontanabuona a living museum in unusedcaves has been created, to show everyone how thisprecious black stone wasworked. There is also an

elegant showroomexhibiting fine pieces, to admire before buying.

Damasks and bellsFontanabuona does notonly have stone at its heart.Up there, in Lorsica, is anancient craft companywhere demasks and silk arewoven as they were in thepast, on over a hundred-year-old looms withmastery and ability passeddown from generation togeneration. Lower down, inUscio, in hills looking outover the sea, you will findbells and clocks destined forthe belltowers of Liguria

The black stone of LiguriaThere is a valley, behind

the Gulf of Tigullio, whichpromises good things withits name: it isFontanabuona, meaninggood fountain, a namethat appears to be from afairy tale or Disney comic.Fontanabuona is in fact alittle bit “land ofplaythings” as in Gattornathere is a factory whichmakes hand crafted toys...If the name of the valley in reality seems to be dueto the purity of its water, a sign of its destiny has

been for centuries, andcontinues to be today, the treasures of its subsoil.

Slate: a rough black stone,of a thousand qualities and of unique quality here.In the past it was usedabove all for the coveringof roofs, but today it ismainly used as a sheet forbilliard tables. No othermaterial, synthetic ornatural, can guarantee thesame slide of the balls orthe correct rebound on thegreen cloth.Slate for furnishing and for objects, slate to use andto visit.

... and of beautiful things

In the order given:Fontanabuona slate is dividedinto slabs by the skilled blowsof the spacchino or “splitter”.It is also used for fancy goodsand floorings. The ancient artof damask making continues in Fontanabuona and in theTigullio area where fine cloth is produced using crafttechniques. Campo Ligure is the capital of filigree: its museum bringstogether beautiful jewels fromall over the world.


wonderful for a classiccountry outing, perhaps

even with a picnic uponthe grass, while a trip to the lakes of Gorzentedemands a little morefatigue, rewarded with thegreat beauty of the place.Other water stories aretold by the water mills inCeranesi and Mignanego,and by the lock at Busalla,reachable with a short pathfrom the town centre: aroute of canals used in caseof flooding and bridgesthat took water to the twomills at the end of thevalley.

Living NatureThe itineraries along “the valleys of milk”, Sturaand Orba, allow you to quickly reach pastureland. Elsewhere naturedominates all: inSant’Apollinare, aboveSori, and Fontanigorda, in

greyness of the city.The Praglia plains are

Like a nativity sceneIt is not always necessaryto depart on demandingexcursions in order todiscover the best of theGenoese Apennines. Witha healthy and gentle walkyou can enjoy the sceneryand fresh clean air,combined with momentsof cultural interest, forexample in the nativityscene-like village of Pentema, in the Trebbiavalley, where time seems to have stood stillconserving a tranquilvillage of huddled togetherstone houses. Anotherexample, again in theTrebbia valley, is theancient church andgraveyard of Santo Stefano,in Fontanarosa di Gorreto.

The valleys of kitchengardensYou are truly spoilt forchoice. Botanicalenthusiasts, for example,can opt for the mountaingarden of Pratorondanino,in the Stura valley, or forthe charming walk in Ciaè,in the Polcevera valley,reached by taking the“Casella light railway” asfar as Sant’Olcese. Thewalk, a gentle downwardsslope, ends at theabandoned village of Ciaè,where a refuge withovernight accommodationhas recently been opened.

Water StoriesThe upper Polcevera valley,behind Genoa, offers greatpossibilities of evading the

Enjoy your walk!

Spring is the ideal season forexcursions and walks andMontoggio (large photo, top) is an excellent starting point.The Casella miniature railwayis the best way to reach the Bisagno valley, the UpperPolcevera valley and theScrivia valley.

the splendid scenery of the“Wood of the Fairies”, anassolutely unique chesnutgrove.


just a few examples. If youdesire you can indulgeyourself in a wholeitinerary of villas in theupper Scrivia valley.

The park of Villa SerraDecisively closer to Genoa,and recently enhanced in value by an attentiverestoration process, is theVilla Serra of Còmago, inthe Polcevera valley, closeto the home-town ofsalami: Sant’Olcese. The18th century constructionwas remodeled in the neo-Gothic style in the 19th

century, with a Tudor-stylevilla and medieval tower.The whole complex issurrounded by a delightfulEnglish-style garden, withpaths heading throughmajestic trees to thecharacteristic small lakes.

quick glance, to learn aboutthe tastes of the old-timebourgeoisie.

Fifty and one roomsDo not be misled by the17th century aspect of theBorzino villa in Busalla. It was finished in 1936 andthe Borzino in question

Constructions of floralcharm, evidence of thewell-being of many whocould afford to spend aportion of their free time in“villeggiatura”. Particularlyin the Scrivia valley, easilyreached from Genoa, thevillas are numerous, worthyof a visit or at least of a

The Liberty Style of the Scrivia valleyA holiday can also createcultural development.Evidence of this are thenumerous villas, somebuilt around the turn ofthe 19th century, scatteredthroughout the GenoeseApennine territory.

was an insurance agent.There are over fifty rooms,with various architecturaltricks (for example the slatefireplaces decorated withceramics) to cause confusion

about the style and epoch:an example of postmodernitydecisively ante-litteram. Tosee all the variety: again inBusalla, the Bruzzo villa hasa sloping roof and woodenbeams; the Gatto villa, inSavignone, is attributed tothe architect GinoCoppedé and isdistinguished for its chaletstructure, with woodenbalcony and beams and asloping roof; in Englishstyle is the Davidson villa,also a work of Coppedé: itis to be found in Fornariand dates back to the firstyears of the 19th century.But we are not talking of

The large photo shows the evergreen appeal of thePark at Villa Serra in Còmago.The majority of end-of-the-century villas are to be found in the Scriviavalley: the buildings shown in the photos on these pagesare situated near the Giovi pass.

vegetable gardens...Trips to villas, gardens,


cushioned blocks of lavastone in the form ofcompressed spheres: due toan underwater eruption oflava and therefore datingback to an age where thescenery here was somewhatdifferent.

A “fresh water”aquariumFour tanks, and as manyfish habitats, make up the

The landscape is certainlyimportant, but that is notall. Following the watercourses of the GenoeseApennines, with itsstreams, rivers, smallartificial lakes or age-oldponds, can offer points ofinterest of every genre:botanical, geological,historical...

The fir trees of the lakeThe Lame lake, in theupper Aveto valley. A verysmall lake, in which thegreenery of the surroundingfir trees is reflected.

The lake was formed by amoraine and dates back asfar as prehistorical times.

Further up, at 1300 metresabove sea level, is theAgoraie reserve, open onlyto scholars andschoolchildren, with theAbeti lake (meaning fir treelake). Splendid. It is so-called because tree trunks ofwhite bark have beenresting on its bed for over2500 years. In contrast isthe Nero lake (black lake),again in the Aveto valley,which takes its name fromits pitch black refections.Reflections which, however,are tinged white in winterafter a copious snowfall.

Once upon a time therewas the seaTied to prehistory there isalso the Bargone lake, inthe Petronio valley, a fewkilometres from the sea andat a notable altitude of 850metres. Man lived here asmany as 100,000 years ago,as shown by stone chipsfound in the area. The lake,in reality, is a peat bog. But worthy of attention arethe basalt “pillows”,

Watercourses

river aquarium ofFontanigorda, with troutthat splash around in thehigher tank, where thewater is wavy. Further onthe water flow is lessboisterous, here are thegrayling, barbel and carp.The river aquarium is opentill late, an evening visit,while less suitable for toschoolchildren, is ofparticular interest.

Lakes...to drinkCalm water, encircled bygreen scenery, gentle andundulating: the artificial lakeof Brugneto, an eye-catchingand agreeable site for walksand excursions. In theScrivia valley, at the Creto

plains, is the Noci lake, ofsmaller size but again ofgreat charm. On the westernslopes of the GenoeseApennines are the Gorzentelakes, a succession ofbeautiful views and naturalcontexts of great interest.

The Abeti lake (left) preserves prehistoric trunks while the Noci valley lake (large photo) supplies the inhabitants of Genoawith their water. The reservoirs of the Genoa Apennine mountainsare a real fisherman’s paradise.


remain in the Trebbiavalley, in Rondanina, wherethere is a museum of flora,fauna and local wisdom. To physically touch therural reality of the territorythere is nothing like theEcomuseum of the Avetovalley, which stars thechestnut, the most vital rawmaterial for this populationuntil a few decades ago: in addition to the chestnutgrove (in the hamlet of Luga) in Villa there is a chestnut drying facility,where the fruit was driedbefore being ground in nearby mills, such as the fully functioningexample in the hamlet of Grammizza. Again in the Aveto valleyare the “Barchi”, traditionalhaylofts with mobilecoverings, set down uponfour poles.

Stories of warThink of mountains andthe conflicts of partisanswill come to mind. In Propata, in the Trebbiavalley, a museumremembers the time whenthis land was disputed overand ransomed at a highprice. The museum of theItalian Alpine troops,in Savignone, a townin the Scrivia valley,has a similar role. It also includesan interestingarchaeologicalmuseum. Archaeologyis also to be found inCicagna, inFontanabuona, where

there is the Slate museum,ideal to complete yourknowledge of the culture of the black stone. Anotherworthy stop inFontanabuona: in Favale diMalvaro there is a museumdedicated to emigrants.Many inhabitants of thisarea embarked upon ajourney into the unknowntowards America in theearly 20th century.

Villages and playthingsThe Toy Museum, in Gattorna somehowrecalls the Puppet Museumin Campomorone, in thePolcevera valley. Again in Campomorone, worth a visit is the salt warehouse, a large building which isevidence of the ancienttraffic along the salt roadleading to the Lombardyplain.

To the mine!In the GenoeseApennines, you can endup at the mine, for fun orto deepen your culturalknowledge. In theGraveglia valley there is amuseum of the manganesemines in Gambatesa. Hereyou take a small train withwagons similar to thoseused in the past by theworkers. Not far fromGambatesa, in Reppia, a mining museumcompletes the set up. In Fontanabuona, the“road of slate” passes twoformerly mined caves,

Filigree & Co.In Campo Ligure, valuableexamples of golden andsilver filigree are on show

in an elegant museum.Nearby, in Masone, there is the Museum of Iron,while in Rossiglione thereare motorbikes, bicyclesand other 1900’s objects.

Chestnut civilizationDescending the Turchinoroute you arrive at Acquasanta, where thePaper Museum is evidenceof the activity of the papermills in the area.

While to fully understandcountryside culture, headto Montebruno, a charming village in theTrebbia valley, with a richand detailed museum on the topic. To furtherdeepen your understanding

often wives of miners,who descended, slabs on shoulders, to the port of Lavagna. Along the way are someexamples of ruralarchitecture built in theblack stone.

useful to understand how,in the past, they extractedthe black stone from thesubsoil. You can also gooutside: the slate routetravels over again theancient beaten track once used by the carriers,

The discovery of hidden treasures

In the order given:the rails for the mine wagonsin the Graveglia valley. Ancient stone and slate housein Fontanabuona. The forge, inthe Iron Museum in Masone.Interior view of the PaperMuseum in Acquasanta.A puppet from the museum inCampomorone.


even be seen from themotorway with its flagfluttering upon the highesttower. A castle such as thiscannot be left to waste,and it is therefore the hostof events, exhibitions and,in summer, concerts. All this can be coupledwith the pleasure of aninteresting and informativevisit. Of a completely

different character is the Geremia fort, in themunicipality of Masone,that was constructed tosurvey the Turchino pass.

The Malaspina castleLarge and powerful, the Malaspina castledominates the main sceneof Santo Stefano d’Aveto,the most mountain-liketown of the GenoeseApennines. The strong bastions givesome idea of how thisbuilding could resistenemy assaults.

family is reflected in theremains of their buildingsin Savignone, Montoggioand Torriglia, while othercastles are to be found in Senarega, Montessoro,Borgo Fornari and Casella.

What beautiful castles!At Isola del Cantone thereare the Spinola castles, butthe greatest testimony to this noble Genoesefamily is the CampoLigure castle, restored andwonderfully dominatingthe village and, to anextent, all the valley. It can

The “Castello della Pietra”At times nature literallysupports the work of man,and this is the case at Castello della Pietra(Castle of stone), close to Vobbia, in the Scriviavalley, fitted in betweentwo rocky spikes which, ina certain way, form its sidewalls. A fascinatingbuilding, which in its time,the Medieval period,developed the function of“sentry” upon the roadbelow, with its movementand traffic. Today, the castle of stoneholds historical andcultural interest. Arrivingis easy, once you are belowthere is a quarter of anhour’s walk. It was recentlyrenovated in order to allowan easier, informative andinteresting visit. Besides,the Scrivia valley is knownas the valley of castles. The history of the Fieschi

Looking for castles

Four wonderful examples ofcastles in the Genoa area: thelarge photo shows the Castellodella Pietra in Vobbia; on the leftthe castle in Campo Ligure; inthe centre ruins of the castle inSavignone; on the right one ofthe turrets of Castello Malaspinain Santo Stefano d’Aveto.


valley, with its gallery of ex-votos representing, in a mix of devotions andsuperstitions, a sort of

album of daily life. Againin the Polcevera valley is the shrine of Vittoria(victory). The victory in

question is that of 10 May1625 against the armies of the Duke of Savoy. The shrine of Aquasanta is found behind Voltri andis an oasis of peace that,particularly in summer, is pleasantly cool. There ismore than the view here,

Villacella, there is aninteresting architecturalcomplex with the remainsof a 12th century

monastery and a watermill,unfortunately notfunctioning but wellpreserved.

Outskirts and holy shrinesShrines are numerous.Let’s begin with Guardia,overlooking the Polcevera

Churches and holy shrines.Buildings that are often outof the city walls, rich in artand architectural worth,frequently situated inpanoramic positions. Thereare many good reasons,therefore, to embark uponan itinerary in the GenoeseApennines in search ofsacred monuments.

Medieval artIf we are mainly interestedin historic, artistic andarchitectural value, we musthead for the Cistercianabbey in Tiglieto, the firsterected in Italy by thisorder of monks, with itscloister and oratory inRomanesque style. In thenot too distant Vezzulavalley a worthy visit is tothe church of Santa Mariain Vezzulla, better known

as the “Romitorio”, orhermitage. It was alsoconstructed by theCistercians in the 12th

century. Anotherhistorical-artistical exampleis the basilica complex ofthe Fieschi in San Salvatoredi Cogorno. In a Gothic-Romanesque stylerendered even moreprecious by a generous useof slate, the local blackstone, alternated withwhite marble, and with abelltower, bold and stout,dominating the scene. Nottoo far from San Salvatoreis Borzone, with itsimportant Benedictineabbey of a sobre andfascinating Romanesquestyle and with greenerysurrounding the complex.Too beautiful to be true. In the Aveto valley, in

Looking for churches and holy shrines

the environment is shadedby the characteristicallylarge form of the building,and a visit to the localrestaurants is alsorecommended. Againwater is the star of theshrine of Tre Fontane inMontoggio, in the Scriviavalley. Situated along thecourse of the Creto stream,in the middle of a wood of age-old trees, this shrinehosts an interesting ex-voto collection. A verydifferent scenery is offeredby the sanctuary NostraSignora di Montebruno,considered the mostsignificant monument ofall the Trebbia valley. Alsothe church of San Nicola,in Rondanina, re-made inthe 13th century upon theremains of a Romanesquebuilding, is worth a visit.

In the order given:the Cistercian abbey in Tiglieto.Procession to the AcquasantaHoly Shrine. The ancientmonastery with mill in Villacella.The Basilica dei Fieschi in San Salvatore di Cogorno.The Santuario della Vittoria(Shrine to Victory).


In search of traditional cuisine

with eggs and vegetables. Exquisite.

Cuisine of theApenninesThere are some specialities truely connected to the cultivatedstrips of land. Mainly“peasant” dishes, a truemeans of support in thepast which have todaybecome, thanks to theirrichness of ingredients, a new delicacy. “Focaccia”,

in the Stura and Orbavalleys, is called revzora, andis made with corn flour.Panella, typical ofFontanabuona, is a simpleversion (without raisins or

without sour cream. Not to mention the ripieno(stuffed vegetables), whichnumber all the herbs of thetypical genoese preboggionin a symphony to taste witheyes closed, like goodmusic. And the ravioli?With meat or mushroomsauce, not to be missed. In Genoese cuisine ravioliare filled with meat.

Genoese cuisine, food of the land. This is why it is difficult to distinguishbetween the gastronomy of the Apennines and Ligurian cookery in general. Not that thepalate takes offence, of course, because in typicalinland trattorias, those withthe checked tablecloths,you eat extremely well and pay very little, as it hasalways been.

Pesto & PestoThe menu, often givenspoken, jumps straight intothe first courses. Pestoaccompanies trenette pastaor, more often, troffie pastaor lasagna. There is pestoand there is pesto, and inthe Genoese Apennines youcan find many variations,all of them correct and

delicious: there are thosewho add nuts instead ofpine nuts, those who preferpecorino instead of parmasan, and those,especially in easternLiguria, who dilute it withprescinseua, a fresh tastingand unmistakable curd.The pansoti pasta calls fornut sauce, the natural andauthentic one, made

But there is also a healthieroption filled withvegetables.

Fritto mistoThe second course is theGenoese fritto misto(mixed fried food). Vegetables and meat, withsome delicious specialty,from brains to curdledmilk on a spit, not to beconfused with the friedsweet milk that makes an excellent dessert. An alternative to the frittomisto is cima, stuffed meat

pine nuts) of thecastagnaccio cake; micòtiof the Graveglia valley is a focaccia made withcorn flour accompanied by onions, lard, mortadella

ham and various seasoningswhile Baciocca is a potatopie. A speciality of thePetronio valley is testaieu,pasta disks served withmeat or pesto sauce.

In the order given:delicious pansoti. Ingredients for pesto Genovese.“Country” cooking in theMontebruno museum.Ravioli. The original cima.Basil from Prà, indispensablewhen making pesto.Tasty focaccia.Mushrooms, the main ingredientfor tagliatelle sauce.


is the historical Columbusitinerary: starting atTerrarossa di Moconesi, place oforigin of the Columbusfamily and ending atQuinto al mare, today partof Genoa: it is the trail ofthe “migration” made bythe ancestors of the greatnavigator towards Genoa,where Christopher wasborn in 1451. Anotherinteresting route is the

“Balcone sul Mare” or“Balcony over the sea”, a 44-km route around thecity of Genoa, andincluding parts of the “AltaVia” and the Columbustrail. Highlights of theroute include the fortsaround Genoa and thepassing of out-of-the-wayvillages.

everybody’s level. Lets begin with the trailsinside the natural parks, allconveniently equipped andwell sign-posted. For example in the park of Antola, some trails arein a ring form: the ring of Pentema includes a visitto the nativity-scene villageand can be completed inaround four hours withoutany particular steep climbs,the ring of Caprileincludes, from Caprileitself, a climb up to Antola,crossing plains, pastureland and woods. Greatlyscenic is the ring ofChiappa, which offersglimpses of the Brevennavalley and the Antolaslopes. Enthusiasts andthose well equipped couldundertake, in a few days,the “Alta Via” trail of theLigurian mountains, or the

traditional activities, fromtennis to swimming, fromfootball to bowls, allplayed at speciallyequipped sites. And allwith the advantage offresh, clean air to breathe.

The trails of theApenninesA network of trails closelyinterwoven like the intensegreenery of the Apennineforests. It is not difficult tofind the most interestingtracks, along paths often at

Sport in the GenoeseApennines means above allcontact with nature: thediscovery of valleys andhidden treasures can alsooccur on horseback, or ona mountain bike. But it isnot necessary to remainwith your feet on theground: the rivers andstreams that outline theterritory lend themselvesto activity of every type.You can go by canoe, forexample, taking part incanyoning along ragingand demanding courses ofwater; or dedicate yourself,in a more serene andrelaxed manner, to fishing,whether it be at a river or alake. Skiing? It can beundertaken in the Avetovalley, where there arearound 30 kilometres ofroutes for cross countryskiing. There are also more

brief but notablydemanding route atRocche del Reopasso.

The loop trailThe “alpine” Aveto valleyalso provides the chancefor itineraries everyone iscapable of: for example thering of Groppo Rosso,intense but easy at thesame time, with openviews of the surroundingmountains and floralscenery of undoubtable

fascination. A beautifulexcursion is to be found in the forest of the Pennamount; a harder climbleads to Maggiorasca, withits 1796 metres the tallestsummit of all the LigurianApennines. Demanding,but not off-putting, is thering of the Zetta mount,while a change of sceneryand a landscape of greatgeological interest is to befound along the ring of Gargassa, in the Sturavalley, where the dark rockbackground contrasts withthe clear water runningbelow. Again in the Beiguapark, climbing MountRama from Sciarborrasca israther demanding, but theview from the summit is unmissable.

Fieschi and ColumbusSome trails develop outsidethe protected area of theparks, but they are not anyless fascinating. InFontanabuona there is thepath of the Fieschi, whichfollows a route passing themost significant sites of theancient stronghold of thisnoble Genoese family. Also interesting

Excursions into Nature


The view of the seaFrom the Turchino to theBocchetta passes, the “AltaVia” has one of its mostsignificant and spectacularstretches, here it is at its

closest to the sea. The walk is gentle and the scenery is openwith a 360° view difficult to find elsewhere.

Beyond the cityThe “Alta Via” thenencircles the Polceveravalley, lapping the higherreliefs, then moves towardsthe Scrivia valley, where the Genoese Apennines are more authentic and dense. It is the stage ofthe passes, from Bocchettamade famous by Coppiwhen the cyclingchampion dominated theTour of the Apennines,

to the Giovi pass, historical and present passagebetween Genoa and theLombardy plain. Then onto the Vittoria sanctuaryand Crocetta d’Orero.

Now we overlook one ofthe other great valleys ofGenoa, that of Bisagno:as always from up high, at around 1000 mt, fromthe summit of Carossinoto Alpesisa, up on MountSpina and to the Scofferapass.

The “Genoese” stretchesof the “Alta Via” of the Ligurian mountainscan also be carried out on horseback or mountainbike, but perhaps the greatest way to fullyunderstand this territory,which offers such splendidemotions, is on foot.

The nature trailThe best way tounderstand and appreciatethe Genoese Apenninesis to walk there, alongtracks which show the temperament, thecolours and the franknature of the place, alive and thriving.

Fontanabuona and then...Climb and descend, gentlyand docilely, until thePortello pass and arrive at Sella della Giassina,facing Fontanabuona, thehomeland of slate. A stretchupon the ridge, smooth butcomplex, ends at Barbagelata,where you can observe thevalley from up high in a succession of beautifulviews and demandingtracks. From here the walkbecomes serious, almost 35 kilometres of paths crossthe most significant peaksof the Genoese Apennines.First of all is Ramaceto, stillin Fontanabuona, at aheight of 1300 metres: anunusual mountain, with theshape of an ampitheatre, a natural scenery of greatinterest. Then towards the Aveto valley, beyond the Bozale pass, in the area of Monte degli Abeti

and the Agoraie reserve; at a height of around 1700metres are Mount Aionaand Mount Penna. Amongthe highest summits of theGenoese Apennines andworthy finishing line of the“Alta Via” of the Ligurianmountains.

The “High Trail” of the Ligurian Mountains


Areas worthyof protectionA landscape to protect, a nature to understand.The four regional parks of the Genoese Apenninescontain environmentaltreasures in a territorywhich, never before asnow, needs to be preservedand protected like adefenceless being. It can bediscovered of course, and visited, showing all therespect it deserves and withthose special attentionsthat should always be givento a delicate and at timesthreatened universe.Precisely, a world worthy of protection.

The Antola parkEmbraced by the Trebbiaand Scrivia valleys, thispark includes one of themost delightful and richenvironments of theGenoese Apennines. The panoramic peaks,starting at Mount Antola,are a favourite destination

traditional settlements ofwooden and stone houses,chestnut dryers and mills.History and tradition arereflected in the richness of architectural works,from the castles thatdefended the territoryto the sanctuaries, symbolsof devotion. All is at hand

here, with excursion trailsfor walkers to understandthe rich surrounding land,for example with a visit to a museum.

The Aveto parkThe Aveto park is the most“alpine” of the LigurianApennines and containsthe highest summits,between 1600 and 1800metres, such asMaggiorasca, Penna, Zatta,Aiona and Groppo Rosso.The Aveto regional parkalso includes the Gravegliaand Sturla valleys, andtherefore offers a variety of environments andsituations difficult to find

for hikers. But the parkalso includes pasture land, age-old chestnut groves,splendid blossomingflowers, watercourses andlakes. Nature here isclosely connected toculture: countrysideculture, as shown by the ancient routes, the

elsewhere. Set among the most elevated summits,some lakes of glacial origin

contain geological treasuresof great interest andimportance; some scenesrecall the alpine areas

Natural Parks


The Portofino parkThe most importantRegional Nature Park of Liguria offers a double-faced reality, between thesea and the mountains.Behind a curve, along aridge path, themediterranean maquis givesway to an exquisiteApennine world: from pinetrees and olive groves wepass to chestnut, maple,nut, ash and hornbeamtrees. Not to mention theflowers, never so beautiful,never so varied as on thisgreen strip of land stretchedover the sea. To follow its

paths means to immerseyourself in a world of fascinating nature. And unexpectedly, fromthe greenery and the sea, anancient treasure shows itself,the abbey of San Fruttuosodi Capodimonte, situatedin an enchanting bay. Here the hand of man isdiscreet and respectful: forexample in the cultivationof the terraces where theolive trees flourish. A land,as always, uncontaminatedand protected, that needsto be preserved for futuregenerations and to beenjoyed without haste.

the Gargassa valley, crossedby a ring trail whichreveals it in all its beauty.While upon the oppositeslope, the Pratorondaninobotanical garden offersan opportunity to deepenyour knowledge of thevariety of flora found inthis environment so closeto the sea and sosurprisingly different fromother mediterranean areas.A significant artistic and architectural heritageis to be found at Badia di Tiglieto, an ancientCistercian abbey situatedin a tranquil green field.

Savona. Its fascination liesnot only in its size, but in the great beauty of themountains looking outover the sea. The Faiallopass offers a wonderfulview of the entire city ofGenoa, with the horizonoutlined by the Portofino

headlong to the east. From up here, on a clearday, it won’t be difficult to sight the northern point of Corsica.The geological richnesshere is shown, for example,by the rocky formations of

of central Europe; lowerdown chestnut treesdominate. And againpasture land, extensive andgreen, a sign that the dairyproduction here isundoubtably excellent. Anenvironment that should beunderstood and appreciatedwithout haste, preferablyon foot, along a trail thatrises upon a ridge in thisunexpected and fascinatingterritory. Do not miss thecultural highlights, above

all the historic Borzoneabbey and the entirelyvisitable Gambatesa mine.

The Beigua parkThe Beigua park is thelargest of Liguria andincludes parts of theprovinces of Genoa and

Natural Parks


Valley by valley

The Genoese Apennines: a rainbow that embraces all shades of green, nature in its proud reality.Unchanged, and alwaysdifferent, trails start at thesea and wind steeply up tohigh altitudes, routescreated by the flow of water, decisive like thecharacter of Liguria, areaspopulated by people whohave layed down theircharacter, culture andarchitecture throughout the centuries. A world thatnever ends, to be discoveredvalley by valley, path bypath, town by town.

Arenzano, Cogoleto andthe mountains of the seaA territory overhanging thesea, with some wonderfullyscenic summits making it a favourite for hikers:Argentea, Rama, PuntaMartin, Pennello and Reixaare all so high and so closeto the sea it seems youcould touch it. At the shorethe beautiful towns ofArenzano and Cogoleto;and between the coast andthe mountains are Lercaand Sciarborasca, splendidbalconies overlooking thesea. Higher up, the Faiallopass offers an unforgettableview of the city of Genoa,and the Turchino pass is thegate towards the Riviera.

The valley of goodthingsThink of anything youwant: in the Polceveravalley there is truelysomething for all tastes, or

if you prefer, here you canput together a completelunch (and what a lunch!),perhaps starting with“Sant’Olcese” salami (alsomade in Orero). And thencorzetti pasta, with a curios“number eight” shape,ideal for collecting all thetaste of the classic meat ormushroom sauces. And thesweets are a delight.

The valleys of milkA land rich in pastures andwatercourses, situated

behind the mountains that embrace the westernGenoese riviera. Thevalleys of milk are situatedhere: a world to discoveralong an itinerary by car,which shows, stop by stop,where the milk comes fromand where milk and cheeseare processed.In the Stura and Orbavalleys you can visitimportant artistic-architectural sites, learnabout craftsman activitiesand follow paths ofincomparable beauty.

The castles road Mirror mirror on the wall,which is the most beautifulcastle of them all? Beyonddoubt, the Castello dellaPietra in Vobbia, situatedbetween two rocky spikesand overhanging the valley.

A wonderful record, itmust be said, because theScrivia valley teems withcastles: interesting remainsworthy of protection inorder to save a historicaland architectural heritagethat is evidence of our pastand our culture.

The water roadIn Fontanigorda they haveeven created a riveraquarium, but this doesnot at all surprise. The green Trebbia valley is rich in watercourses and lakes, not only the Brugneto lake (artificialbut wonderfullypicturesque) that representsthe water reservoir of Genoa, but also the numerous streams,beautiful not only to look at.

The slate roadSlate of the highest qualityis mined here, in the heartof Fontanabuona. To makeroofs, shelves, walls, objectsand billiard tables. Hereslate can be bought directlyfrom the producer. Butabove all, here you canlearn about slate, along thevarious steps of a livemuseum, which leadsvisitors through the cavesto demonstrate how thetreasure of the mountains

was, and continues to be,extracted.

The valleys of the parkThere is no rival, herenature wins, it offers manyrealities which not just anydescription can do justiceto. From the greenery andhill areas of the Gravegliaand Sturla valleys to themountains of the Avetovalley the passage is notbrief and needs to be takenwith calm, to understandthe territory moment by

moment, grasping thegentle changes as youclimb slowly,understanding itsvegetation, and how thework of man has changed.Walk without haste, withthe calm and respect that

the environment of thenatural park deserves.

The valleys of olive treesSo close to the sea that thegreenery here has thefragrance of theMediterranean. The olivetree is more than a simpleclue, it is culture, historyand tradition. Reality. The civilization of the olive,the extra virgin olive oilthat here, along the easternLigurian riviera at the foot

of the Genoese Apennines,has an extremely delicatetaste, so gentle that it is apleasure to savour it withbread, so fine that evenfried food retains its taste.Made this good only in thePetronio valley.


Key to the map of the Genoese Apennines

Motorways

Main roads

Secondary roads

Municipal roads

Railways

IAT - Tourist Information and Tourist Reception

Tourist Information Points

Regional Natural Parks and Protected Areas

Holy Shrines and abbeys

Castles, towers and forts

Museums


USEFUL NUMBERS

AirportFlight Information: 010 601 54 10Motorway Travel info: 89 25 25Public transport ALI Autolinee Liguri Bus Service: 010 54 67 42 10Tigullio Transporti Bus Service: 0185 37 31Genova-Casella railway: 010 83 73 21Trenitalia train information: 892 02 10

NATURAL PARKS AND PROTECTED AREAS

Parco Naturale Regionale dell’AntolaVilla Borzino, Via XXV Aprile, 17 - 16012 Busalla (GE)Tel. 010 976 10 14 - Fax 010 976 01 47Parco Naturale Regionale dell’AvetoVia Marré, 75/A - 16041 Borzonasca (GE) Tel. 0185 34 33 70 - Fax 0185 34 06 29Parco Naturale Regionale del BeiguaCorso Italia, 3 - 17100 Savona Tel. 019 84 18 73 00 - Fax 019 84 18 73 05Parco Naturale Regionale di PortofinoViale Rainusso, 1 - 16038 Santa Margherita Ligure Tel. 0185 28 94 79 - Fax 0185 28 57 06

“Alta Via dei Monti Liguri” AssociationTel. 010 24 85 21

GENOA APENNINE MUSEUMS

CAMPO LIGURE Filigree Museum Tel. 010 92 00 99 - 010 92 09 81 CAMPOMORONE Italian Red Cross MuseumTEL. 010 78 36 94 - 010 78 22 92Puppet Museum Tel. 010 72 24 11 - 010 722 43 14 Paleontology and Mineralogy MuseumTel. 010 722 43 14 CASARZA LIGURE“Parma Gemma” Museum Tel. 0185 462 29 - 0185 46 73 03 CICAGNA Slate MuseumTel. 0185 97 10 91Eco-museum of slateLoc. Chiapparino Tel. 010 97 10 91COGOLETO Loc. SciarborascaCountry Folk MuseumTel. 010 918 81 42

CROCEFIESCHI Paleontology MuseumTel. 010 93 12 15 - Mobile: 347 931 09 98FAVALE DI MALVARO “Casa Giannini” Emigrant MuseumTel. 0185 97 50 67 LORSICA Damask Museum Tel. 0185 950 19 MASONE“A. Tubino” Civic Museum Tel. 010 92 62 10 - 010 92 60 03 MELELoc. AcquasantaPaper Museum Tel. 010 63 81 03 - 010 631 90 42MOCONESI Fraz. GattornaMoconesi Poli-museumTel. 0185 93 10 32MONTEBRUNO Alta Val Trebbia Holy MuseumTel. 010 950 29Alta Val TrebbiaCountry Culture Museum Tel. 010 950 29NE - Loc. GambatesaMining Museum Tel. 0185 33 88 76PROPATA Partisan MuseumTel. 010 94 59 10ROSSIGLIONE 20th Century Motorcycles and BicyclesMuseumTel. 010 923 99 21SAN COLOMBANO CERTENOLI Loc. Calvari“Tommasino-Andreatta” Marine MuseumTel. 0185 31 44 03 - 0185 35 60 10 0185 35 61 02SAVIGNONE Alta Valle Scrivia Museum: Archeology sectionTel. 010 936 01 03 Alpines Troops MuseumTel. 010 936 01 03 - 010 93 69 30USCIO Bell and Clock MuseumTel. 0185 91 94 10VALBREVENNA Fraz. SenaregaAlta Valle Scrivia Museum: Etnology sectionTel. 010 964 17 94 - 010 969 08 30

Edited by: M&R Comunicazione - Genova Texts: Fabrizio Calzia Translation by: Michelle Louise ThomasGraphic design: Federico PanzanoPhotographs: Archivio APT Genova, Archivio APT Tigullio, Archivio M&R, Archivio Parco di Portofino, Renato Cotalasso, Fabrizio Calzia, Italo Franceschini, Paolo Gassani, Fabio Lombrici, Roberto Merlo, Gianni Ottonello, Federico Panzano, Santo Piano, Luigi Strata, Specchiomagico - MeleCartography: Alessia Massari and Francesca Pavolini Printed by: Grafiche G&G Del Cielo - Genova

© 2004, A.P.T. Genova, A.P.T. Tigullio, GAL Appennino GenoveseThis publication was made possible by funds provided by Liguria Regional Law 19/2000.


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